BeExposed: Issue#05 - Air

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It’s September, a changeable month where we say good bye to our sunny festival days and say hello to a new term and a new influx of fresh style. Fashion gurus flock to the runways at LFW for their long awaited fashion fix and so as we freshen up our Autumn/Winter wardrobes, maybe we should also freshen up and open our minds to a new trend that is being explored, ‘Genderless’.

new season inspiration at fashion week ss15 collections: from top to bottom: orla kiely, mawi and hemyca

In the second of our ‘elements’ issues we are exploring ‘Air’. To us the word air evokes the feeling of being set free, liberation and letting go of what ‘should be’ and what’s expected. In this issue we discovered and celebrated people comfortable in their own skin, not afraid to show the world their true colours in the way they dress and socialise.

Read androgynous model Joses’ interview on page 52 where he tells us about his views of gender and how having a ‘genderless’ look can get you far in fashion.

And get inside the mind of the opposite sex on page 58 where features writer Harriet Dixon explores the dos and don’ts of dressing for the opposite sex.

Our BeHeard section hears how Seinabo Sey’s therapy is to write music and that working with the opposite sex has produced some of her best work.

She also explained how she is rejecting the way the media expects a female artist to come across, ‘you’re not supposed to be vulnerable, you’re supposed to be strong all the time.’ Read the full interview on page 6.

Have your false lashes and lippy at the ready for Kevin Hunter’s witty and informative feature titled ‘Gender Bender’. Here he opens our eyes to a whole other creative world of gender mashing along with his exclusive interview with drag queen super star Dusty O. So in the words of Kevin if you are a ‘fem queen, metrosexual male, butch queen, butch les, fem les, straight androgynous girl that looks like a hot guy, your oh so pretty he looks like a fabulous girl/ boy, your fierce drag queen and king, not forgetting your transgender male to female, female to male and everything else more or less in between’ own it, feel liberated, get creative and work it out in your own fabulous style this season.

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CONTENTS

Issue

BeHeard: Seinabo Sey Ella Martini

6 12

BeInStyle: Get the look 18 Fur Real 23 Meet the designers Editorial 40

26

BeSpotted: Not so Mellow Yellow: LFW

66

BeInspired: Mitja Bokun

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Articles: Gender Bender 34 Girls who like boys 58 NYC = New Young Creatives

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JOLANDA COETZER make up artist

SASKIA LAWSON EDITORIAL PHOTOGRAPHER

Harriet Dixon Features writer

Stunning young talent with a seriously well developed eye. Check out our fashion editorial shot by Saskia.

Read how Harriet explores the blurred lines between female & male dressing

kevin hunter features writer

LEWIS EDWARDS VIDEOGRAPHER

mel dawson music writer

Lewis teamed up with Kevin to interview legendary drag queen Dusty O

Mel has been catching up with Ella Martini, new & amazing vocal talent.

Kevin’s “Gender Bender” article is a must read for humour and facts!

KUNJI street style photographer

max tuson fashion writer

Kunji has brought the live streets of LFW Max revelals the new designers to our pages. Keep an eye out for this we need to watch out for this season. talented photographer/ graphic designer!

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Jolanda reveals the products needed to get the look from our fashion editorial & talks to us about her views on gender

Nyle levi GRAPHIC/ LAYOUT Nyle worked with us to design the layout of this issue, we hope you like it!

Tucked up in a small town in Sweden a raw talent was born. Seinabo is the musically blessed daughter of legendary African signer Mawdo Sey who, at the ripe age of four, was moved to

the refined songwriter and vocalist she is today and this is only the beginning.

‘Younger’ was your breakthrough single and one of our favourite tracks of yours. It shows this track and what message were you trying to give out?

I wrote the track three years ago when I was going through a rough patch, not knowing what to do. So I wrote some songs to myself and thinking those are the words I wish somebody had told me. It’s a bit like giving myself a kick in its like therapy for me.

the problem with her lyrics. CeeLo (Green) is

talking to people and preferably about problems haha, psychology, my problems, my friends problems, just life in general I guess? I

In this issue of BeExposed we are exploring

it’s like therapy.

there ever been any point where you have felt your gender has held you back, or do you feel it’s been an asset to what you do?

You've had your songs remixed by some producers making really great music at the moment, including Kygo, S.P.Y and Toyboy & Robin. Which would you say would be your

I understand the problem that a lot of female never really felt that I have experienced it personally. Maybe I have but I’m not aware of think there’s this thing about being a woman that people want you to be really clear and know like sort of easy to handle? So when it comes to lyrics in songs people expect you to say certain things like, you’re not suppose to be vulnerable, you’re suppose to be strong all the want you to be one thing but honestly all the producers and songwriters I’m working with lucky.

There’s this guy called Fryars who did a really cool remix to ‘Hard Times’. I am very bad at listening to remixes in general, I like listening to them once or twice to hear what they have actually taken from the original as I find it really the types of music the remixes are in so it’s kind genres. Another remix that has stood out is by Mathambo. However too many people are remixing songs, people should remix their own songs haha!

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really come up with the right singer or song just yet so no colabs in the pipeline just yet.

“I just think that production is all about vibe and chemistry more so than fame or sound…”

your music and who would be your dream producer/singer or songwriter to work with?

My producer Magnus Lidehäll wants my opinion on everything of course, more or less think everything he does is perfect, so I really don’t have a dream producer to work with. chemistry more so than fame or sound because if you’re not comfortable it won’t work. All you need is talent and the opportunity to grow and to be wonderful.

I have no discipline its terrible. I just stop making music when it’s not fun, I’m like a teenager in pictures of the sky, I think the sky is one thing you can look at and think it’s so amazing, it changes all What can we expect to see from you over the coming year?

I am going to be releasing an EP in October and then an album, if I ever finish it haha! I think it will be out around February 2015 and I am going to be coming to London quite a lot so I’ll be touring and October so I’m looking forward to that. itunes seinabosey.com Facebook Youtube Instagram Issue 5/7

“I haven’t really thought about collaborations a lot, but an artist I really love is KWABS…”

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Text Mel Dawson heard. Her incredibly unique voice depicts the likes of Amy Winehouse, Lily Allen and Jessie J all rolled into one.

It was inevitable that we were to fall in love with this talent and her soul that stretches far beyond her years.

We first witnessed Ella own the Barfly stage in Camden to support of her equally talented pal Mainey Robinson with Ella recently to talk all things music and to find out more from the amazingly humble songstress.

“There are many strong women to look up to in recent music history...”

also tell me they hear singer-songwriter elements in it. So I guess you need to hear it yourself to make your own judgment.

We're loving your latest single 'Dealing with this' which shows do you find it to write songs?

Thank you. It's a huge compliment for me when someone relates ‘real w orld’ can be I guess. H ow e asy a song i s to w rite r eally so I don't expect it to be easy necessarily!

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happened to you this year and why?

the rest of the coming year?

A lot of personal milestones have been reached

I’m working towards a big release, probably an EP in early 2015. I've dedicated these next

and three songs played on 1xtra last week, my to that was a bit overwhelming.

Who has been your biggest musical idols growing up and have you ever had the chance to meet any of them? around the house when I was growing up.

Lauryn Hill being one of them. It's been on my wish list to see her perform live one day and that's happening later this month - I can't wait to just sink into her performance.

In this issue of BeExposed we are exploring there ever been any point where you feel your gender has held you back or been an asset to what you do?

Thankfully, I don’t feel that gender has held me back. But I'm aware that it does happen, my experience so far has been that equality in many strong women to look up to in recent music history and what they have done and

for it. At the moment it's looking like it will be four songs and I’ve got some possible tracks diary or an insight into my mind. The range of one, it will be my first proper release and I feel it's a chance to give people a real feel for what I am about.

We love an embarrassing story so what would you say has been the funniest/most embarrassing moment of your musical career so far?

I don't tend to get embarrassed and I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing yet! Haha. Once I was performing with my band and we managed to blow up the sound system. It just suddenly went bang and then silent. I think people expected me to be more embarrassed So with a plethora of musical friends and acquaintances, a whole heap of amazing covers predict big things for this 19 year old from Oxford. Stay tuned in as we follow Ella's incredible journey throughout the coming year. but I kind of liked it, playing the rest of the gig unplugged was fun.

- 21st October: Sofar Sounds, London - 25th October: Headline Show, The Art Bar, Oxford iTunes Purchase & Download for Double-Single Release Website Soundcloud YouTube Facebook

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ella martini ad

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GET THE LOOK

Comfortable heels at last

Sargossa Sargossa has started a stiletto revolution. With patent technology on their specially constructed in sole (made up of a broad range of foams) we road tested these shoes for a day at the races and can hand on heart say, these are some of the most comfortable shoes we have ever worn.

“Shoe lovers have traditionally had a choice between shoes that look good and shoes that are comfortable, but Sargossa bridges this gap without sacrificing comfort or style,” declares designer Nanna Liv. Nanna we couldn’t agree more.

The rising star

Jasper Garvida Jasper Garvida graduated from the prestigious Central St. Martins in 2004 with a BA honours in fashion design womenswear. His graduate collection was reviewed by Hillary Alexander, as a “dazzling debut” and he was selected by ID magazine as “one of the young designers to watch out for”.

After graduation, Jasper worked with labels such as John Galliano, Alexander Mc Queen and Vivienne Westwood and he swiftly gained the role of head designer for Michiko Koshino. In 2008 Garvida entered and won the fashion competition show Project Catwalk and in 2009 he was a finalist for Fashion Fringe. His first collection debuted at ON/ OFF and he has been part of London Fashion Week ever since.

Charismatic clothing

Sandor Lakatos Growing up in Hungary Sandaor Lakatos worked on a sewing line from the age of 15 with his Grandmother (the factory manager) teaching him all the tricks of the trade. Sandoor started his design career in 2005 and appeared in Vogue Italia’s new talents section in 2013, Vogue described his line as ‘elegant,’ ‘extravagant,’ ‘minimal’ and ‘dark.’

Sandor never draws any of his designs on paper, working directly on the fabric he uses. Another form of inspiration for the designer is looking at charismatic people’s lives and faces; he would rather use characters and faces of power than professional models, as he believes people can represent the concept of the brand better than anything.

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For the new romantics

Dear Frances London-based designer, Jane Frances studied at the London College of Fashion and also ModaPelle Academy in Milan.

After graduating, she spent her formative years in Milan, before moving back to London to establish her own label.

However, her shoes are still produced at a boutique factory in Italy, which ensures the shoes quality craftsmanship. Dear Frances designs strong, yet feminine collections for the urban romantic; these are shoes for women with a relaxed sense of style and a natural elegance.

The fun and flirty brand

Vivietta Vivetta is an Italian brand established in 2009 and is inspired by poetry, depicting a delicate, fun, assertive femininity. Designer Vivetta Ponti (who used to work at Roberto Cavalli) also has a love for dolls, antiques and furniture and tapestry from the 60’s and 70’s. These nostalgic elements contrast to the contemporary silhouettes to create an elegant yet modern collection.

Stylish siblings

Angel Jackson The British sibling design duo behind this innovative brand, Katie and Millie, are both passionate and dedicated to the belief and importance of producing beautifully hand crafted products in ethical working conditions. Production takes place in Angel Jackson’s exclusive factory in Bali allowing the brand to control every element of the luxury manufacturing process.

Recognised by the British Fashion Council and British Vogue, Angel Jackson was the first and only accessories label to be short-listed for the highly esteemed Designer Fashion Fund, alongside catwalk designers, Erdem and Christopher Kane. They are widely recognized for their stylish and glamorous designs that have a “don’t mess with me” attitude.

Contemporary menswear

Path ‘Presence’ by Path reinvents conventional ideas of masculinity and modern menswear. Designer Janine Grosche’s contemporary minimalism and elegance is evident throughout, the aesthetic is taken further and functional sportswear mixes with high fashion to create a new sophistication. Powerful and avantgarde, this collection from Path, takes menswear into subtle new territory.

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Fun with fur

Shrimps Shrimps is a newly launched faux-fur fashion label from the young London-based designer, Hannah Weiland.

The first collection blends the simplicity of the classic Breton stripe with bright faux furs to create coats and clutch bags that are at once nostalgic and surreal yet contemporary. A British brand that captures British humour, creativity and innovative fashion.

Men Do you dare to wear pastels?

Kenzo This seasons Menswear exuded a certain Parisian charm, or at least an American’s take on what Paris should be like. The sugary, macaroon coloured pastels and polka dots could prove a little scary and feminine for some men? But we think the preppy silhouettes and denim pieces counteract this. The intarsia knits of Les Miserables and the Statue of Liberty were some of favourite pieces but overall we think this collection has a sense of freedom of expression in menswear.

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MEET THE DESIGNERS Joanna Pybus

Age: 25

: North London Place of study: UEL

Ice Cream Time

www.joannapybus.com

‘I THINK FASHION IS A TOOL FOR EXPLORING...IT'S BETTER TO GET IT WRONG AND FEEL AWESOME, RATHER THAN DRESSING TO PLEASE OTHERS.’ I always feel s o nostalgic about 80's and 90's video games, and was 'Castle of Illusion starring Mickey Mouse' for the Sega Mega

Who is your muse? passion and drive. Katy Perry for example: her story is amazing, and she worked fucking hard to get to where she is. It took a long now, and it is purely for the passion for performing.

If you could work for any brand what would it be?

Maybe not a specific brand, but I would love to work on collaborathink she'd be fun to work with.

What 3 w ords c ome to m ind when y ou t hink about t he l ast 3 years?

Change, new, busy

What piece of clothing on a man do you love or hate the most?

I wouldn't say that there is one item I love or hate on a person. I feel awesome, rather than dressing to please others.

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Rachel Walkden

Age: 22

: Lancashire Place of study: Uni of Central Lancashire Clowning around

.”I WOULD WISH TO VISIT PARIS… OR NEW YORK, EITHER WOULD DO!” Talk us through your collection and your inspirations behind it? it? behind I wanted my collection to be specifically for women, but after toiling and having regular reviews I started to experiment with styling men.T hat’s That’swhen whenmmy experiment with s tyling it oit nonmen. y whole collection came together. Although the silhouette was Chaplin-esque on women, the tailoring screamed men. screamed men.

What are your key 3 fabrics used?

What are your key 3 fabrics used?

Material wise wise II wanted wanted to to express express the thefun funelement elementof of Material my collection through my choice of fabrics mixing polka dot suiting and crisp white poplin shirting with fine wool pinstripes. wool pinstripes.

If you could work for any brand what would it be?

If you could work for any brand what would it be? especially herher tailoring so that II love l oveComme CommeDes DesGarcon G arcon especially t ailoring so would be the ultimate brand.

What would it take for you to say one day “I’ve made it”? would it take for you to say one day "I've made What it"? wouldlove loveto to my own brand/company.

I’m II would ownown my own brand/company.

I’m looklooking into selling one of pieces now I have graduated, ing into selling one of pieces now I have graduated, so so fingers crossed! fingers crossed!

What do you think about gender in this day and age?

What do you think about gender in this day and age? day andand ageaanything goes.goes.

Whether you’re II think t hinkini nthis this d ay ge a nything Whether a girl who likes to dress masculine, or a guy who prefers you’re a girl whofeminine. likes to dress masculine, or a guy more who to dress more Society have become prefers to dress more beliefs feminine.

Society have become acceptable of peoples which is what I would like to seeamore of – less judgment whenwithich comes to how more cceptable to peoples beliefs i s what I you dress! would like t o see more o f – less j udgment when i t comes to how you dress!

What piece of clothing on a man do you love the most?

What iece o f suit, clothing a man y ou an l ove the A goodp tailored I loveo anman whodo makes effort. most?

CATWALKING.COM

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Paige-Amber Broom Age: 21

: Northampton Place of study: Birmingham Between Us

“...MY MUSES ARE WOMEN. STRONG, CONFIDENT WOMEN WHO DON’T CARE WHAT PEOPLE THINK..”.

Talk us through the collection and your inspirations behind it.

My collection is a concept about the bond between man and woman and looking into the physical features that make them different. Initially taking inspiration from the idea of gender polarity and there idea of there being no good man without a good woman.

Challenging this idea I wanted to create a silhouette which empowers women and creates a sense of being powerful and strong.

What are your key 3 fabrics used?

Key fabrics were Mongolian sheepskin patent leather and my own print design onto cottons.

If you could work for any brand what would it be?

One of my favourite brands is KTZ they are amazing they have this kind of Goth Gangster thing going on which I am totally in love with.

What three words come to mind when you think about the last 3 years?

The first three words that come to mind are, fun, stressful, insightful and probably the best three years of my life.

What do you think about gender in this day and age?

Women have had to come through a lot to be recognised as individuals and I’m so proud of what we have achieved.

Personally I think a woman can do whatever she wants to do along as she has the ambition to do so as can a man.

It’s all about equality and if you are good at something you should be recognised for it.

What piece of clothing on a man do you hate the most?

White low cut vests, they are the worst and they have no style.

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Ad - Dear Frances

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An interview with illustrator and magazine editor

Mitja Bokun Slovenian illustrator Mitja Bokun caught our eye with his dramatic ink splashed portraits of people from all over the world; from illustrating backstage at fashion shows to every day people he produces hundreds of pieces a year. Somehow he also manages to fit in being Editor of Reserved magazine and looking after his family. We met up to quiz him on his motivation, passion and love of the arts.

You have worked with some amazing people including illustrating backstage at the Vivienne Westwood show, how did that come about?

How did you get into illustration?

for the show, I didn’t really think about it but two days later I was on a plane and was drawing backstage, something I had never done before! Looking back, from an illustration point of view I was so naive and amateur; I would be 100% better now.

I started drawing when I was 5, first comic books and then heavy metal stuff; but I was never really interested in fashion or design as in Slovenia it’s not really a profession you can live from. When I finished school and my Father died we didn’t have much money to survive so I chose a profession such as IT so I could help my family with money.

I’ve had so many jobs before I started illustrating; I was repairing machines, a logistics manager, a warehouse software developer, you name it. But I never gave up on my talent, I drew all the time and one day, when I lost my job I decided to become a professional illustrator.

You have a massive body of work, how do you fit it all in?

I love working on projects and I am happy when my clients are happy, but working backstage at the Westwood show was one of my more interesting jobs. My friend Rafael asked if I could fly to London

‘show your work to as many people as you can and get lucky, it’s about being at the right place at the right time’.

Who have you most enjoyed illustrating?

I love people and drawing portraits, especially eyes. I I draw daily, no matter where I am. Yearly I would don’t care if the people I draw are models, designers say about 500 pieces. I don’t experiment as much or just real people, everyone has something amazing anymore, over time I have recognized and developed and interesting about them. my own style and now I kind of stick to it. But I am just obsessed with drawing.

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What is a typical day in the life of Mitja?

Nothing really glamorous; I usually wake up at 5am, get my coffee, cereal and check emails. Then I talk with my friends on Facebook and make plans for the magazine we have (Reserved magazine). If I have a project on I would have a quick meeting but then I start drawing. I like to run and I have a house and family to look after but whenever I am free I draw.

What advice would you give those trying to get into illustration?

Just keep on trying, be yourself, show your work to as many people as you can and get lucky, it’s about being at the right place at the right time.

When and why did you start Reserved magazine, what message are you trying to portray?

We started, or more rightly I joined with Whitney Mercurio in February 2013. I don’t know why really, maybe just because it’s good to try different things in life and also to express my creativity in another way. Reserved magazine doesn’t have any message to give, we are not trying to convince someone of something, we just publish artwork we love, fashion we love. We don’t follow trends or the latest things on the market, we follow our instincts and that’s the only thing that is important to us. Maybe that’s the reason people like us?

How do you think social media affects or projects your art?

I am an illustrator, which means, I create art for people, for companies, businesses, not for myself.

Social media is a great market for me, a place where people can see me, see my art. It’s like a replacement for fairs, web pages and blogs and I think social media is more important than traditionaladvertising.

However, you need to handle it, you need to be fast to be effective and you need to move, to be in touch with people, to show things. If you do it properly then it’s hard work.

In this issue we are talking about gender. In your experience do you think gender influences opportunities in the art world? Do you think men and women express themselves differently creatively?

I think it’s hard to say because everyone can be creative; it is a matter of will. I don’t think gender is a measurement any more; I think geographic location is becoming more interesting and where you came from, suddenly we are looking at talent from parts of the world nobody knows about and it shouldn’t matter whether they are a man or a woman.

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‘I don’t care if the people I draw are models, designers or just real people, everyone has something amazing and interesting about them’.

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WORDS: KEVIN HUNTER, VIDEOGRAPHY: LEWIS EDWARDS, PHOTOGRAPHY: luxxxer Issue 5/34

Looking around it’s obvious to see that the line between genders is getting bendier by the day and by bendy I mean it’s a squiggle. From your fem queens, your metrosexual male, your butch queen, your butch les, your fem les, your straight androgynous girl that looks like a hot guy, your oh so pretty he looks like a fabulous girl/ boy, your fierce drag queens and kings not forgetting your transgender male to female, female to male and everything else in between. Gender these days really is more of a fifty shades of heeeeyyy *clicks fingers and does a head snap.

When I Googled “Define gender” I was hit back with “the state of being male or female (typically used with reference to social and cultural differences rather than biological ones)”. So that got me thinking, in 2014 with so many cultural and social differences i.e. class, race, economic status, job status, age, religion, sexuality (the list is endless) impacting how we experience the world, I’ve been thinking of late, what is gender? Is it like sexuality on a sliding scale of 1 to 100? Are we born with a specific “gender”? Or are we just a collection of attributes and behaviours reinforced with social stereotypes of how a “Man” and a “Woman” should behave?

Tilley pioneered the Drag King look and performed in the music halls of London and New York in the early 20th century. When Marlena Dietrich later dressed as a man for the film Morocco in the ‘30s the course was well and truly set.

In the ‘50s and ‘60s, youth culture started to realise the true power of breaking the gender ‘rules’ and they used it to make a political stance. London started to swing and the androgynous face of the mods, Twiggy, was born. Over the Atlantic a drag queen named Marsha P. Johnson resisted arrest; the catalysts for the Stonewall riots giving birth to the modern day LGBT civil rights movement. This was responsible for making it acceptable for us to walk the streets as we deem fit with whom we deem fit and dressed to kill because that’s exactly how we want to live life, on our terms and fuck anyone that tells us any different.

By the 70s things really started to get interesting; in Warhol’s factory there was a host of drag and transpersonalities including Candy Darling, Holly Woodlawn and Jackie Curtis whom Warhol declared ‘Superstars’.

From planet bender came Ziggy Stardust; Bowie had entered the building and he was wearing a catsuit with shoulder pads the most ardent Balmain fan would be

‘In art and fashion at the moment there is definitely a gender fuck renaissance. The idea of having a transgender muse is not an old one but is most definitely something that has begun to be explored.’

I tried to pinpoint when the line started to bend but the more I researched the more it became apparent that in most cultures throughout history there has always been the gender bender; maybe not in the modern sense of the phrase but it has always existed in some form. The Eunuchs of the ancient civilizations were castrated before they had any major hormonal changes and who served as courtiers and guardians of the harems are recorded as far back as the 21st century BC. Although it could be argued that this was not actual gender bending and more genital mutilation, the eunuchs were considered a 3rd gender.

Native American tribes also had a third gender which they referred to as “two spirited” (I love that phrase).

The word drag was used as early as the 1870s referring to male actors who were “dressed as a girl”. Vesta Issue 5/35

proud of. As the decade wore out New York descended in to chaos in the midst of bankruptcy but from ruin comes transformation in the form of music and art giving birth to Disco, Hip Pop and Punk. These were desperate times, but also heady ones with artistic and sexual liberation in full swing. While Grace Jones was strutting her stuff and losing her mind (her words not mine) in Paradise Garage; In London punk had hit as teenagers used make up as a big fuck you to the mainstream. Faces were beaten to an inch of their lives in white powder; eye liner was thick; heads where shaved and hair was dyed a multitude of colours. As one scene morphed in to the other the New Romantics emerged, taking it to a whole different place; slightly less antagonistic than the punk look but none the less powerful. Taking us to dandyism and throwing some serious shapes in the Blitz to the electronic sounds of Visage. One of the most famous faces from that scene was Boy George who continues to inspire today with his perfectly applied slap and his straight talking “anything goes” attitude.

‘what is gender? Is it like sexuality on a sliding scale of 1 to 100? Are we born with a specific “gender”? Or are we just a collection of attributes and behaviours reinforced with social stereotypes of how a “Man” and a “Woman” should behave?’

As the ‘80s came around, Paris was burning in the drag balls of Harlem where the gay and transgender communities formed “houses” to protect themselves on the mean New York streets, immersing themselves in their own fantasy world to escape their true reality.

Organising ‘balls’ where trophies and accolades were given to only the most revered and ‘Legendary’ queens who won categories for showing ‘Realness’ with titles like ‘Face’, ‘Body’ ,’Parisian Model’ and my favourite ‘Butch queen’s first time in drag at a ball’. This was the birthplace of ‘Vogueing’ later adopted by Madonna.

Women became powerful female figures in business; with cropped hair, Thierry Mugler suits with cinched waists and exaggerated shoulders, these women cut a mean silhouette in the trading room floors of the stock exchange. This decade was about money, sex

and power and these women were not afraid to show it. This was mirrored in pop culture with Eurhythmics’ powerful androgynous female lead singer Annie Lennox dressed in a man’s suit with cropped red hair and oozing sex appeal.

By the time the ‘90s hit, the club kid phenomenon was in full swing; the Limelight was pumping with Michael Alig, James St James, Amanda LePore and the crew taking the ‘home made’ punk ethos and running with it. The club kids ruled the roost in Manhattan but the scene took a nose dive when Angel Melendez was brutally killed by Alig, later documented in St James’s book disco bloodbath. The supermodel phenomenon was at its height and the gender bender has well and truly hit the main stream. Bitches make way for supermodel of the world Ms RuPaul media mogul, who to this day does Tyra better than Tyra. Viva glam billboard anyone? Perhaps the most famous drag performer with a career spanning decades. The ‘90s rolled in to the ‘00s and Ru has paved the way for drag performers everywhere with her hit television show RuPauls Drag race. Introducing us to and array of new drag artists from Sharon Needles, Jiggly Caliente, Alyssa Edwards and not forgetting the “Large and in charge” Ms Latrice Royale. On this side of the pond we have the legendary Dustyx O the host of tranny shack and tranny academy and Tasty Tim who’s career’s have spanned decades from the Blitz to the Mud club and to New York and back.

I’ve only skimmed over the surface of the fascinating history of gender bending. Danny La Rue, Lilly Savage, Devine, Pete Burns, KD Lang, Murray Hill, Gladys Bentley, Lady Bunny, Lypsinka. There are far too many fierce and fabulous queens, entertainers, artists and the like for me to mention all of them here but their fabulousness will live on and inspire generation after generation. Over the ages one thing was a constant; whereas straight counter culture dipped their toe in the pool of androgyny, it is the gay community that has taken it and made it in to what it is today. Drag performers from Times Square to Soho have made female impersonation into an art form. Not forgetting the pantomime dame or the Rocky Horror show and the important role the theatre has played in the acceptance of the men to dress as women and vice versa.

Over the last few years, whereas most straight men the world over are shaving everything off, most noticeably in the gay community there has been a revival of uber masculinity where gay men have abandoned their razors and tweezers and now want to look like the tattooed, bearded men of the ‘70s, looking like they should be on the cover of colt magazine. We also have the alternative drag look with queens with painted faces and beards a la Mathu Anderson. The cultural impact gender bending has had on modern society can not be disputed.

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Perhaps most obvious in the music and fashion industry androgyny is with out a doubt here to stay - you only have to walk around Shoreditch on a Saturday night to see the kaleidoscope of exotic creatures coming to drink up the energy that is east London. In art and fashion at the moment there is definitely a gender fuck renaissance. The idea of having a transgender muse is not an old one but is most definitely something that has begun to be explored.

Designers, stylists and film makers are all referencing the gender benders of the past. From Warhol’s Candy Darling, who was immortalised in Lou Reed’s Walk on the Wild side, to my personal favourite Paris is Burning, anyone who’s anyone wants to blur the lines with a capital Pepper LaBeija.

up doll part performance artist this 7ft tall, erm, personality has been spotted at fashion parties across London. Perhaps the most telling of the future of drag and gender, are we all just hiding behind a mask?

What I have come to realise is that ultimately we are merely beings, some of whom serve a different purpose in the physical, spiritual and creative evolution of our species. I know deep maaaan. So with that said I’m off to buy a new eye liner. Peace bitches.

With the beauty and cosmetics industry playing a heavy role in the development of men’s makeup, men are now becoming indoctrinated in to the world of wearing slap. Plus with the development of non surgical facelifts and fillers, people are now actually designing their own faces. What was once counter culture is now just culture plain and simple. If I was to take a guess at the future of gender I’d say we’ll become more and more genderless in the main stream with the pendulum swinging back and forth, with people exploring old worldly masculine and feminine traits with a twist. Artist, performers and youth counter culture will look to cosmetic surgery and newly developed forms of make up to express themselves as living pieces of art. Speaking of living pieces of art, let’s not forget Pandemonia; part blow Issue 5/38

Advert - Hassleblad

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MIX pretty PASTELS WITH STRIKING MONOCHROME FOR 60’S INFLUENCED ANDROGYNY. PVC AND FUR ADD A PLAYFUL TOUCH MAKING THE GREY winter DAYS MORE FUN.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SASKIA LAWSON STYLING AND ART DIRECTION: BEEXPOSED HAIR AND MAKE UP: JOLANDA COETZER MALE MODEL: JOSE @ AMCK MODELS FEMALE MODEL: MARIA PEARSON

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ISSUE5/00 Issue 5/41 Trousers and vest: Anna d’souza, Shirt and waistcoat: rachel walkden, Sunglasses: Topshop

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shirts: Anna d’souza

Shirt dress: joanna pybus

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Shirt, trousers and bib: rachel walkden

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Trousers and shirt: rachel walkden, bag: stylists own, shoes: flossy Issue 5/45

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shoes: sargossa

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dress: gudrun and gudrun, necklace: kirsty ward, Shoes: stylists own Issue 5/48

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jose wears: Trousers, shirt and sliders: Anna d’souza, bowtie: topman. maria wears: jumpsuit and pvc coat: paige broom, neclace, shoes and socks: topshop

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jacket and skirt: joanna pybus, crochet top: anna d’souza, Shoes and socks: Topshop

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JOSÉ ‘If I had one wish, I’d make people love and respect each other more regardless of religion, race or sex...’

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The beautiful genderless Brazilian model that disregards time, doesn’t wear a watch and doesn’t celebrate birthdays.

Text Tiffany Baron

It is unsurprising that José Wickert was scouted walking down Liverpool Street station on his first week of arriving in London. He is part of the ever-growing AMCK family and has now modelled for nine strong years. Having been shot by photographic legend Rankin, it is clear that his effortlessly striking face has enchanted many eyes other than our own.

With his lustrous, enviably long icy hair José embraces the change of male modelling in this day and age. ‘I have done a lot of shoots as a female or wearing dresses, even shows with heels. It’s good fun to be able to become a different character on a daily basis.’

What’s so exciting about fashion is that it’s constantly reinventing itself and pushing the boundaries, and models like José will lead the way as they walk us into a new age culture of genderless attraction. When asking José if he’s noticed a recent change in male or androgynous modelling he answers with, ‘I think there is a broader view of different types of masculinity and gender performance; there is more work now for male models than ever before but we still get paid much less than the girls. I do believe I fit in the androgyny thing though due to my look; it goes in circles, sometimes this type of look is really trendy and I get to do many shoots, but then it changes to skinheads or guys with beards - that’s the beauty of fashion, it is always evolving.’

For women makeup is a powerful thing, it enhances our assets and covers our flaws. My morning routine typically consists of at least twenty minutes of makeup application to give myself the confidence to face anything thrown my way, and I am not ashamed to admit it. I have always wondered how men feel about this. Does makeup give men the same empowering effect as it gives us women? José says, ‘For models I think it’s part of the job, sometimes we have to wear crazy hair, make up or funny clothes. I feel happy to be able to contribute to an artist’s vision, stylist or photographer to make their vision materialise. It’s teamwork. On a personal level it doesn’t affect me it does not give me any extra confidence. I guess I’m confident already. What really helped me was actually the amount of “No”s a model gets in casting. We have to do so many castings and we hear “No”s all the time, so I’ve learned not to take it personally and also when I hear a “No” outside of the modelling industry I take it without any drama or overreacting.

As well as modelling, José is also a student at London College of Fashion studying for a Fashion Business degree. Submerging himself into the fashion world he tells me of his love for social construction behind fashion such as ageing, gender performance and social class. He feels these topics need to be discussed openly with the public and that fashion theory should be explored more outside academic circles, with strong views that everyone should read about it. ‘Never expect anything, just take what the universe is giving you and enjoy it the most.’ I admire José’s outlook on life and his ability to take a positive out of any situation and to embrace every moment. When asked what has been his most memorable shoot he simply says, ‘I wouldn’t be able to pick one; some shoots I made lifetime friends, others it was good money or great for my career. I always try to make the most of it, learn something different. We meet people from all over the world and it’s never the same crew in a shoot so it’s always so interesting, I make the most of every moment.”

‘...I would love to do a fragrance campaign. I haven’t done one yet...’

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This look was created for both sexes. T looks glowing and healthy, there is no The hair is styled in a non speciďŹ c ge androgyno

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Meet Jolanda the artist of Makeup Text Tiffany Baron

‘I wish people would stop using the word ‘Ugly’, true beauty is in diversity’ Meet Jolanda Coetzer, 37 from Johannesburg, a lady with an incredible eye to transform a model into a work of art, so we knew we had to get her on our team to beautify our latest fashion editorial. Jolanda has worked on the faces of some top named celebrities; Selena Gomez, La Toya Jackson, Ozzy Ozbourne, Joanna Lumley, Ashley Roberts, Alex James and James Buckley to name a few.

When Jolanda was thirteen her mother brought home a huge stash of international fashion magazines which immediately gave her a taste of something truly inspiring; this was the first time she had laid her eyes on the fashion bibles Vogue, Cosmo and Harpers. “The women in these magazines looked like no one I had ever laid eyes on!” When she asked her mom about their transformation from one page to the next, her explanation was simply “Make Up”. Those two words sent her on the path she’s on today and she admits to still getting excited watching faces transform with the stroke of a brush. Originally studying Photography and Art, Jolanda has since been working with makeup for nine years. After building her portfolio she got signed to a creative agency that opened many doors for her, bagging her meetings with the editors and producers she still works with today.

After asking Jolanda what her most memorable experience has been I can safely say it is one I wish I could have experienced myself “Partying with the Jacksons till the wee hours of the morning after a concert… Surreal!”

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Have you seen a change in male/ female styling on shoots over the past 2-3 years? Do you think the lines between genders are becoming more blurred?

Personally I have not witnessed much change on shoots; stylists are always pushing boundaries when given half a chance! However I’ve noticed lots of floral prints and skinnier, more form-fitting cuts in menswear.

Womenswear on the other hand has always borrowed from their counterpart with shoulder pads and so on.

Although…I did spot a guy a week ago using the most amazing Prada handbag for groceries, he was fabulous!

What are your views on the style of transvestites?

Their style is diverse like everyone, no two people are alike. Many people think of the entertainment industry when transvestites are mentioned with big hair and sequins; however I have met some ladies with a preference to sensible shoes and little make up.

A friend of mine is a performer/DJ and does tend to push the boat waayyy out when it comes to make up; I enjoy the transformation as it is usually very much over the top!

Have you worked on many androgynous shoots before? What did you make of them?

“Partying with the Jacksons till

I have worked on many shoots where the client wanted a strong/severe look for the female models.

This definitely helps to get a striking image.

after a concert... Surreal!”

Do you see a change in models behaviour/ confidence as you begin to make them up?

Absolutely, it is like watching an actor get ready to play a character. It is fun being a part of the process and to transform them into these different personalities they are portraying. The more fierce the make up the better…

What do you think it is about makeup that seems to empower people?

the wee hours of the morning

Where do you see the future of styling and makeup?

The internet makes new trends instantly accessible to everyone and that means fashion is evolving much faster than it used to. With so many tutorials on Youtube I see even fourteen year old girls with perfect smoky eyes and sculpted cheekbones. I think it will become bolder and more out there, people are already taking more risks with their personal style than they used to. I look forward to seeing what the next 5 years will bring, exciting times!

So many women would not dare leave the house without perfect make up and lots of guys wear undereye concealer! The ritual of applying make-up and perfecting tiny flaws psychologically prepares you for your day, feeling confident about your outward appearance will put a spring in anyone’s step.

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Who like girls

Who like boys

BY HARRIET DIXON

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What the

I am a suc the edgy “Ea grungey Cara Jordan Rihanna/Rita of l

‘what if my sense of style, simple, block colour, statement necklaces and ripped skinny jeans) isn’t what men find attractive? Yes, yes, we live in a feminist era and I generally agree with the “I dress for other women” rule, but, hell, a girl’s gotta eat and I don’t want hotties to run away from me, screaming with horror’

hate jeans can see thei believe m loo

a nice pol but flip th up and it's other ba

What the

BY HARRIET DIXON Issue 5/60

What I like about boyfriend jeans is they send a message that a woman doesn’t need to try too hard and can be effortlessly gorgeous with just a cker, for pair of jeans. ast London”, a Delevigne/ Dunn/ a Ora kind look.

I love a girl who can put on a snapback and new balance but look damn hot! boys say

dungarees -cotton eye no!

high waisted shorts kind of remind me of a wedgie! they also they look like they belong on someone early 20s max

I think Greek Goddess when I see a girl in a maxi dress, They cling in all the right places!

They were cool until the masses rushed to Primark to own a pair and we became inundated with a sea of MC Hammer clones!

if your muscle are so big they have postcodes don't squeeze them into blazers

so tight I ir knobs me I will ok!)

I have a secret drooling for hot men in designer grey tracksuits, it means cosy times

lo is fine hat collar s a whole all game

Socks with sandals is never a good look

I quite enjoy a loafer without a sock every now and again those hideous Sandals with the Velcro tops, that have unfunny slogans on-fuck off)

really hate That posh ‘faux hippy’ look

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The city renowned for being the commercial hub of all the fashion weeks looks set to make its mark with a new wave of young creatives.

Text Max Tuson It is around this time every year that magazine editors, models and desperate attention seekers prepare their wardrobes for the front row, the after-parties, the streets and beyond at the hedonistic month that is Fashion Week. All New York, London, Milan and Paris of it. It is a month that will spawn outrage, controversy, a model will trip and a new name will be made, praised and cast out in to the industry – only to do it all again in 6 months time.

For many years we’ve followed a very strict schedule. We start in New York, the commercial capital of fashion.

We flounce through London’s hotbed of fresh talent and rising start-ups, strut through Milan’s tantalising trendsetting before turning our eyes to Paris, where the extravagance, the tradition and the ‘show’ would consume us.

Paris is and always will be the Emerald city at the end of our yellow brick road, but this season it’s time to cast your eyes to New York City where just a few people look set to shake up the status quo.

tctv: telfar a/w 2014 - art + fashion - mocatv

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Bubbling under the surface for several seasons now, a string of creative brands are liberating the Big Apple of its commercial stamp and igniting a creative class all of their own. Telfar is just one of these brands. Founded

by Telfar Clemens at the age of 15, the designer – who didn’t go to fashion school – recently spoke to Dazed Magazine about his decade old label constantly being branded ‘emerging’, despite having been doing this for ten years. The Telfar brand is using social media and the power of Web 2.0 to stay ahead of the fashion curve and finally get the fashion press noticing them. With a number of digi-tricks up their sleeves it’s an exciting time for New York City as we wait to see what Telfar will do next. We hear he has big plans for Kmart. Stay tuned.

A brand that isn’t just using social media, but is creating one all of it’s own is VFiles. The online multi-faceted platform offers not only your very own VFiles social feed, but also a shop and VFiles TV – where you can catch the hilarious episodes of Intern Files and Danielle Live! Acting as an almost NYC equivalent to London’s very own Fashion East, each season VFiles supports a number of designers in showcasing their collections on the international stage.

“Last season’s VFiles runway labels, ASSK, Hyein Seo, and Melitta Baumeister, went into the show without much of a presence on the global fashion scene. The designers, who earned their spots through an online competition, came out of it with such retailers as Dover Street Market and celebrity clients like Rihanna. If you still thought VFiles is just here to fill fashion’s missing “weird” quotient, think again.” – Style.com

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This seasons labels come in the form of Tokyo based designer Kazuma Detto with his neo-sporty label D.TT.K. 2014 Parsons School of Design graduate HyeGin Hamm with a collection of hand washed denim. St Petersburg born Dasha Selyanova with womenswear brand ZDDZ and finally London’s own, Central Saint Martins Menswear 2012 graduate, Tigran Avetisyan. Head over to vfiles.com/vmf to find out more about this season’s designers and to get a closer look at the collections.

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If I say Hood By Air, I’m almost certain you will all know exactly what I’m talking about. Founded by Ex GHE20G0TH1K DJ Shayne Oliver the designer has been gaining pace on the New York circuit for several seasons now. The now international brand counts Oki-Ni, Selfridges, Browns and Harvey Nichols as stockists and that’s just in London. With his Fall 2014 show concluding with a troop of male models aggressively vogueing down the runway, the clothes and the statements that Oliver makes is reason alone to keep your eyes peeled and your ears pricked as HBA goes from strength to strength.

And with our very own Gareth Pugh hopping across the pond to showcase his collection in New York this season, we eagerly anticipate who will be next to take their creativity downtown. Only time will tell.

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Not so mellow, yellow The BeSpotted team have been busy at London Fashion Week seeking out the hottest new trends for your attention. Yellow is having a fashion moment and while some of us might wonder how wearable it is now the weather is turning? Or if it will suit our skin tones? It seems the stylish and savvy people of Fashion Week have got it sussed and it’s as simple as... wear it with black! As you can see from our street stylers, your yellow should be loud and proud, but generally kept to one item for maximum impact.

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Back Cover

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