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CONTENTS 16

SEPTEMBER 2017 | VOLUME 185, NUMBER 8

DIGITAL EDITION EXCLUSIVE [podcast] As Amazon Chips Away at Beauty, Brands Need to Get Ready One Click Retail’s Nathan Rigby offers insights into the ways in which brands and product categories succeed on the massive ecommerce platform. BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

Turn to Page DE1 of your digital September edition

FEATURES 8 In 2017, It’s the Product, Not the Brand 12 Cosmoprof North America 2017: Highlights

13 New Frontiers in Personalized Beauty 14 Touch/Experience/Beauty 16 Age Doesn’t Tell the Whole Story

From millennials to baby boomers, attitude and needs—not age targeting—are beautiful.

BY SARA JONES

20 Rethinking Anti-aging

Demographics and consumer mindsets have changed; products designed to address their aging goals also need to change.

BY SARAH BACHIR AND HELENE MUCHICO

26 Pro-aging for Millennials

You’re never too young for healthy aging.

BY LISA DOYLE

29 Market Snapshot: Global Anti-aging

Market figures, growth projections and top brands.

32 Finance Your Beauty Brand

How to get money for your dream, spend it wisely and keep from running out.

BY ADA POLLA

34 Boost Your Sampling With Hotel Amenities

How to create a program that builds big brand equity. BY NIKOLA CLINE

2 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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CONTENTS 20

EDITORIAL

Director Editor in Chief Research Analyst Assistant Editors

Digital/Social Media Editor

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com Brooke Schleehauf | 1-630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com Lisa Schryver | 1-630-344-6068/lschryver@allured.com Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Business Development Manager Kim Jednachowski | 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Business Development Manager Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Fragrance Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan Marketing Specialist Alyssa Derby Customer Service 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN Graphic Design Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

FEATURES

Lisa Hede Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE

39 Impulse Control

In today’s path to purchase, desire is the new need. BY DENISE HERICH

DEPARTMENTS 4 Spark: The Death of Anti-aging? BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

6 Markets & Trends 44 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 50 Hair 54 Makeup 58 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance

RESOURCES 62 Products & Services Showcase 64 Advertiser Index

Partner & President Partner & CEO Controller Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Janet Ludwig George Fox Linda Getner Rose Southard Maria Romero

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com

Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Skin Inc. magazine Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference Perfumer & Flavorist magazine World Perfumery Congress Flavorcon

Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816 E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States. All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective. Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published eleven times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2017. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $20; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA.

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Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

4 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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SPARK

| BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

The Death of Anti-aging?

T JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine

GLOBAL COSMETIC INDUSTRY MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER Coastal Salt & Soul

MOLLY BROOKS Sephora Collection, North America

MARIE ALICE DIBON Alice Communications, Inc.

JESSICA ESTRADA Hue For Every Man

MICHAEL MALINSKY WUNDER2

FADI MOURAD Dollar Shave Club

ADA POLLA Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

ART RICH, Ph.D. A. Rich Development

RICK RUFFOLO R4 Innovations

he global mass antiaging market stood at $13.3 billion in 2016, compared to $11.8 billion for the premium sector (Page 29)*. However, some reports show that the U.S. market has experienced some stagnation in standalone anti-aging product sales, reflecting millennial consumers’ turn toward multifunctional and preventative skin care products. Now, as we prepare to go to press, Michelle Lee, editor in chief of Allure, has just published her September editor’s note, which declares, “Allure Magazine Will No Longer Use the Term ‘Anti-Aging.’” Is this the end of anti-aging? Not exactly. Lee’s column argues that “changing the way we think about aging starts with changing the way we talk about aging” and that, by using the anti-aging terminology, “we’re subtly reinforcing the message that aging is a condition we need to battle.” While she doesn’t suggest that the beauty industry or its consumers turn their backs on hyaluronic acid or retinol or other conventional anti-aging solutions, she does issue a call to action: “We know it’s not easy to change packaging and marketing overnight. But together we can start to change the conversation and celebrate the beauty in all ages.” This appears to be a pivot in the marketing conversation, if not the technical substance of the aging-related products brought to market. While women appear to be seeking a more subtle response to aging (Page 26) and a more nuanced conversation around the subjects of age and aging (Page 16), innovation in active ingredients, as well as expanded claims in the areas of UV, blue light, pollution and other factors, will likely continue apace. The brands that truly understand the complex, shifting relationship between consumers and aging will be the ones that propel anti-aging into its next era, whether we call it pro-aging, well-aging or something else altogether. See you next month.

CRISTINA SAMUELS Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany

*Source: Euromonitor International 2017; www.euromonitor.com

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6 Spark Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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Photographer Didier D. Daarwin Getty Images/Image Source - Thinkstock/Anatoli Styf.

MARKETS & TRENDS In 2017, It’s the Product, Not the Brand

rice shifts, market saturation and the dominance of customer reviews are pushing the prominence of products over brands in this year’s marketplace, argues Larissa Jensen, executive director, beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group (www.npd.com).

Inside the Makeup Slowdown U.S. prestige beauty sales rose 5% in the first half of 2017, according to NPD. And, while makeup sales growth continued to slow, they still accounted for the largest percentage of sales gains in the segment. According to Jensen, makeup generated growth comparable to that of skin care. The nail category fell 1% during the period, but there was growth in base and top coats, which rose 13%, and nail care, which jumped 6%. Like other categories, functional products are behind the expansion. Makeup growth has been inhibited by oversaturation in the market, Jensen argued. At the same time, average prices have declined as more brands blur the prestige and mass space for the cost-conscious consumer. In addition, consumers have become more immune to prestige positioning, particularly as consumer reviews level the playing field across segments. As a result, products have become more critical than brands in driving purchases. Brick and mortar has also largely been a soft spot in the market, while e-commerce sales have offered more gains, especially in makeup—the reverse situation from 2016.

In a separate analysis, Mintel (www. mintel.com) found that makeup offering anti-aging and moisturizing claims were sought-after by 44% of survey respondents. “Anti-aging and moisturizing claims are appealing to older women, and can be particularly successful in light of an aging population that is typically less engaged in the category,” said Shannon Romanowski, director, Mintel Reports, health, household, beauty and personal care. According to the firm’s analysis, 68% of women over 55 are interested in makeup with anti-aging claims, while

23–24% of women aged 18 to 34 seek products that treat acne and sensitive skin and minimize pores. About 28% of all women reportedly seek makeup that creates a flawless appearance, while more than a quarter are interested in facial makeup that evens skin tone.

Premium Skin Care Heats Up With premium skin care on the rise, it’s no surprise that mask concepts, facial moisturizers and all things K-beauty are performing well in the market. NPD’s Jensen noted that some K-beauty brands are growing at double digit rates in the United States.

Makeup with Benefits Drives Growth Makeup sales drivers for the period included long wear foundation, hybrid products and highlighters, as well as brands offering “radiance” and featuring ingredient call outs like coconut oil and hyaluronic acid. 8 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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MARKETS & TRENDS

HOW WUNDER2 PRODUCED AMAZON’S TOP MASS BEAUTY SELLER KF Beauty, a “data-driven marketing company” that oversees hair care brand Kerafiber, formed WUNDER2 in 2015 to provide consumers with “High Tech Beauty.” The following year, WUNDER2’s WunderBrow Brow Gel became Amazon’s top item sold in the mass cosmetics category, boasting growth of 61% year-over-year. In that same period, the independent brand grew by 800%, served 1.5 million consumers and now ships more than 10,000 products per day. WUNDER2 currently has 16 SKUs, with five more rolling out this year, and has expanded its retail reach from WUNDER2.com to Amazon, HSN, CVS in-store and CVS.com, and Ulta.com. Now, with NPD reporting that eye brow makeup grew about 31% between 2016 and 2017, WUNDER2 appears poised for further growth. Virtually any SKU can be sold once, said Michael Malinsky, cofounder and CEO of WUNDER2, but at a $22 price point, it’s critical for a brand like WUNDER2 to invest in bringing customers back again and again. For this reason, Malinsky and his team focused on the product and user experience, which meant good products, good shipping times and good customer service.

Multipurpose products have also done well, said Jensen, as well as those that have utilized the consumer in their development, such as Glossier and Volition. In addition, wellness concepts have generated category growth, led by stores that make it easy to make informed decisions, such as Credo.

What’s Growing in Scent & Hair

Malinsky noted that Amazon is the biggest e-commerce site the largest and most trusted beauty platform in the world, thanks to its ample inventory of consumer reviews. In addition, consumers may be motivated because they are Prime members and already have their information loaded for easy click-and-purchase. For these reasons, WUNDER2 has focused on the platform for growth, which currently generates 25% of its business. n

Jensen added that prestige hair care had grown at a double-digit rate as of May 2017, led by shampoo, hair masks, hair styling and brands such as Living Proof.

Amazon Chips Away at Beauty In the first quarter, Amazon owned $1.3 billion of the $80.6 billion U.S. health and personal care market,

according to One Click Retail.* And, in the second quarter, the retailer posted U.S. beauty sales of $340 million, a gain of 40% year-over-year. Amazon’s Prime memberships incentivize consumers to purchase all of their goods on the platform, and research has shown that Prime * http://oneclickretail.com/insights/

Home scent—candles and reed diffusers, primarily—represented a rare growth area for fragrance, said Jensen. Brands such as Jo Malone and NEST have led the way in this small but growing category. Jo Malone, Creed and other brands similarly benefit from gains in the niche/ artisanal segments. Jensen also noted growth in natural and transparent brands, which may represent future growth opportunities. In addition, online-only upstart brands such as Hawthorne and Phlur are boasting estimated growth of 5–7% per year. Overall, NPD’s data found that men’s fragrance sales growth outpaced that of women’s scents, 4% to 1%. 10 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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in four out of five leading markets worldwide—the fastest year-over-year growth segment was mass cosmetics, at 60%. In the same period, mass cosmetics sales in Canada expanded by 70% year-over-year.** Meanwhile, several outlets, including WWD, are reporting that Amazon has formed an agreement with Violet Grey to deliver luxury beauty to the retail giant’s customer base. Whether or not the deal goes through, it’s clear that Amazon is focused on gaining prestige beauty market share. n shoppers go to Amazon first when seeking out products. The use of data and customer reviews have leveled the playing field among large and small brands, allowing niche players to chip away

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at category leaders. This has made Amazon a key opportunity for savvy beauty upstarts that see the value in being where the consumer is. While mass skin care was Amazon’s top U.S. beauty category—as it is

**For a more in-depth analysis of Amazon and beauty brands, listen to our podcast with One Click Retail analyst Nathan Rigby in the September issue online edition: www. gcimagazine.com/magazine/pastissues/

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MARKETS & TRENDS

Cosmoprof North America 2017: Highlights

osmoprof North America 2017 hosted 1,278 exhibitors and more than 36,000 visitors. This year, the event enhanced its focus on emerging brands in the consumer and professional space, multicultural beauty as well as a significant focus on 49 “green brands.” Cosmoprof North America will return to Las Vegas July 29–31, 2018. See product highlights from the Cosmoprof show below and in our Skin/Sun/Anti-aging, Hair and Makeup sections.

Disrupting Beauty, One Consumer at a Time

From left: Simon Shen, CEO, HiMirror; Amy Errett, CEO, Madison Reed; Yarden Horwitz, trendspotting lead, Google; and Flynn Matthews, principal industry analyst, Global Beauty, Google.

Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief of Global Cosmetic Industry, hosted firm’s beauty and wellness technology, presentations from Google, Madison which leverages image processing, Reed and HiMirror on the closing facial recognition and big data day of Cosmoprof, highlighting the analytics to generate beauty and health diverse ways in which beauty is being related insights for consumers. The disrupted in 2017. HiMirror technology, which was coAmy Errett, CEO of Madison Reed, developed with dermatologist input, outlined her vision for improving operates via hands-free gesture, voice the at-home color experience by and remote control, and can assess and providing a pleasant, safe and track skin firmness, texture, clarity, effective experience for consumers at brightness and overall health. The a pricepoint well below the traditional device can also take an HD photo of $150 salon experience. Errett’s talk the user and generate personalized skin touched on the elimination of key care suggestions. ingredients of concern from formulas, The company’s Plus version includes as well as the need to simplify smart ambient LED makeup lighting shade matching. for different environmental settings, Yarden Horwitz and Flynn Matthews including restaurants, offices and of Google presented the results of their outdoors, while the HiSkin handin-depth analysis of skin care search held device gathers a 360-degree skin trends in the United States, France and analysis, including moisture and Japan, highlighting not only hot melanin levels. The device can also trends but potential future measure 10 skin conditions. market drivers. In addition, Horwitz and Matthews described the various types of trends—from Sustained Risers to Falling Stars—and what marketers and product developers can extrapolate from them. Simon Shen, CEO of HiMirror, discussed his As of June 2017, Identipak is officially a USDA Organic facility.

Identipak Goes Organic for Sampling As of June 2017, Identipak (identipak. com) is officially a USDA Organic facility. The company continues to service to the conventional beauty industry, but now has certified areas within its facility to provide sampling services to natural and organic brands. In today’s environment of omnichannel strategies, direct-toconsumer upstarts and popular sampling programs like Birchbox, sample packaging is more important than ever. During Cosmoprof North America, Identipak exhibited a range of enhanced options, including die cut sample packs that can be designed to closely mimic the form of the product, as well as packettes with see-through windows that show off the product inside. The company also displayed its new high gloss finishes and tandem multi-step regimen sample packettes. Identipak is able to fill packettes with everything from powders to ingestible tablets. And, in order to address consumers’ demands for larger sample sizes, it now offers mini sample bottles and vials that provide multi-use experiences. n

12 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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New Frontiers in Personalized Beauty

“A

s smart devices and app-based diagnostics become ubiquitous, consumer expectations will shift as personalization becomes achievable, based on real-time updates that encourage users to track results and choose products that exactly fit their needs,” noted a 2017 Euromonitor analysis of the beauty and personal care industry.* In January, when Shiseido acquired MatchCo, MatchCo’s founder and chief strategy officer, Andy Howell, said, “Today our MatchCo customer experiences her own bespoke foundation individually made to match her skin tone from the comfort of her own phone, but this is just the beginning. As part of the Center of Excellence, we look forward to collaborating with the brands in Shiseido’s global portfolio to usher in a new age of personalization, A.I. for Beauty.” That day has come. Shiseido Americas Corporation has launched a new iPhone beauty app, Made-2-Fit, which is powered by MatchCo AI and uses the phone’s camera to scan users’ skin tones and then generate a customblended bareMinerals Fresh Faced

*”Beauty and Personal Care 2017: New Insights and System Refresher”; Source: Euromonitor International 2017; www.euromontor.com

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Shiseido’s Made-2-Fit app.

Foundation ($49 for a 30 ml bottle) that is subsequently delivered to the consumer’s doorstep. The required six skin tone scans are led by the app’s virtual makeup artist voice guidance. Elsewhere, Amorepacific has backed a Korean startup accelerator, APTechUp+, including five beauty startups that are taking part in a new incubator program. Amorepacific will provide some funding for the startups, as well as strategic collaboration opportunities. Among the startups are two firms focused on new levels of personalization. Trove leverages machine learning to analyze smartphone photos to provide skin condition analyses and issue targeted skin care recommendations. Paffem’s Perfume Teller applies algorithms to generate perfume selections tailored to consumers’ unique tastes. The service offers a trial kit of three perfumes, allowing consumers an opportunity to try the scents before making a purchase. n Markets & Trends 13

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MARKETS & TRENDS

Touch/Experience/Beauty

ince the last recession, consumers have increasingly focused on experiences over the accumulation of things. Brands, suppliers and technology companies have taken notice, leading to the prominence of haptics, or “the science of applying touch (tactile) sensation and control to interaction[s],” according to TechTarget (www.techtarget.com). Recently, Kunal Kumar, Ph.D., Evonik’s marketing manager, personal care, North America, spoke with Global Cosmetic Industry about the ways in which consumer behaviors and expectations are shifting around the world and how those shifts are impacting technology and products. In the beauty and personal care space, formulators and brands have sought to create new and interesting textures in products to give consumers an enhanced level of engagement. Novel textures, often inspired by the Asian market, include ice cream and mouse concepts that provide an extra emotional tie to products.

These innovations create consumer interest, offer newness and fun, drive loyalty and provide a means of enjoying a beauty regimen. Evonik has created a number of texture-centric demos, including the Shape Memory W/O Gel, which boasts a self-leveling ability to give the consumer the “impression of a ‘fresh start’ before each use,” according to the company. Its transformative Magic Cream to Milk skin care concept uses milk-like droplets that can break on the skin to unleash moisturizing and brightening benefits. The company has also developed a Luxurious Whipped Cream, which has a creamy texture and soft skin feel upon application, as well as a Transformation Cooling Balm, which has a solid-like consistency and perceived cooling effect upon application. In the age of the internet and social media, trends spread faster and wider than ever. But that doesn’t mean that beauty concepts have homogenized, said Kumar. Brands must take global trends and manifest them locally, and

be aware of which categories lead in each region. For instance, hair care comprises a far bigger portion of the market in Latin America and Africa, compared to North America, while UVdefense has the strongest demand in Asia and Europe. Texture is also culture-specific. As brands draw inspiration from K-beauty and other Asian trends, they’re employing transformative textures that offer multiple sensory stages, such as a serum that turns into an oil. However, Kumar noted that preferences between light and rich formulations depend upon the region. For instance, North American and Asian consumers favor lighter formulations and don’t care for products that leave behind a waxy film. Part of this is due to climate, Kumar said. In Europe, meanwhile, heavier, richer sensations are preferred, perhaps due to the colder climate. Understanding these differences can greatly enhance brand-building and marketing success. n

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Brands need to have something meaningful to say to unique individuals, not age cohorts, in order to remain standing long after those pandering to the latest Instagram micro-fad have vanished.

AGE

DOESN’T TELL THE WHOLE STORY From millennials to baby boomers, attitude and needs—not age targeting— are beautiful.

| BY SARA JONES, DewGibbons + Partners

@GCI_Magazine

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Global Cosmetic Industry

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ful rts, se ad

he beauty industry’s current hyperfocus on age demographics— whether millennials, boomers or otherwise—leaves brands at serious risk of falling into a short-termist trap. I’m not the first person to say this, and I certainly won’t be the last, but the point definitely bears repeating. Brand and marketing experts often talk about “post-demographic consumerism,” but Todd Yellin, VP of product innovation at Netflix, explains it best: “Everyone’s instinct was, ‘Yeah, if you find out their age and gender data, that’s fantastic.’ But what we learned is: it’s almost useless. Because, here’s a shocker for you, there are actually 19-year-old guys who watch Dance Moms, and there are 73-year-old women who are watching Breaking Bad and Avengers.” It seems obvious, but “millennial” has been virtually the only word on anyone’s lips at every beauty conference or event I’ve attended in the last 18 months or so. It’s as if brands think that all beauty buyers born between 1980 and 2000 have something intrinsically in common. But do they really?

Speak to Individuals, Not Cohorts Whatever their age, race, gender, sexual orientation or income bracket, all beauty consumers want products that make them feel great and meet their individual needs. Brands need to have something meaningful to say to www.GCImagazine.com

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Whatever their age, race, gender, sexual orientation or income bracket, all beauty consumers want products that make them feel great and meet their individual needs.

unique individuals, not age cohorts, in order to remain standing long after those pandering to the latest Instagram micro-fad have vanished. It’s not about skimming over the fact that different age demographics may have different beauty needs. Physiological aging on skin, hair and nails requires different formulations—skin is drier and thinner, hair ditto. Brands like Studio 10 or White Hot Hair do a fantastic job catering to a specific facet of the mature beauty experience. But there are so many factors other than age in the full variety of skin and hair tones and textures. Some 20-yearolds may have more pigmented spots and sun damage, due to excessive sun exposure, than women in their 60s. Age might be significant, but it’s not the sole determinant of a product’s relevance.

quick, cheap makeup fix reach for basic own label ranges. And 20-something stay-at-home moms might buy budget beauty on autopilot at the supermarket or luxury brands online late at night, while full-time working child-free 60-year-olds might experiment with pink hair at home or in the most expensive salon. Generalizations simply don’t apply.

Budget Factors Spending power is often rigidly correlated to age, yet both baby boomers and millennials looking for a

Brands like Studio 10 or White Hot Hair do a fantastic job catering to a specific facet of the mature beauty experience.

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AGE DOESN’T TELL THE WHOLE STORY

beauty and gastro beauty are more about the avid gym-goer or wellnesslover, not an age group per se.

Unique Identities “I believe we’re entering a time when women are open to authenticity— who they are, and want to be, in real life—like never before,” Emily Weiss, founder and CEO of Into The Gloss and Glossier, recently told NYLON magazine. “Now more than ever, people are striving to develop their own unique identities, go on their own journey, and talk about it.” This is just as relevant to age-neutral Linda Rodin’s beauty range and perennially maverick style icons Iris Apfel and Dame Helen Mirren as it is to millennial favorite Milk Makeup and the various younger vloggers and Instagrammers.

Demographic Influencers

Some 20-year-olds may have more pigmented spots and sun damage, due to excessive sun exposure, than women in their 60s. Age might be significant, but it’s not the sole determinant of a product’s relevance.

Regional Factors Big developments in beauty such as dermocosmetics and environmental protection often reflect a global consumer living in a stressful urban setting, which may not resonate in more rural settings. Sensorial experience is also region-specific. For instance, specialty chemical formulator Evonik Industries’ research found that North American and Asian consumers favor lighter formulations with no waxy film, whereas Europeans prefer heavier, richer sensations. Are these about age? Not really.

Remember, Millennials Didn’t Invent Everything Other growing beauty trends— personalization, multipurpose/ convenience formats and natural/ organic—are frequently attributed to the rise of millennials as a consumer group. But Prescriptives Custom Blend Foundation, NARS The Multiple, The Body Shop, Max Factor Panstik and Nuxe’s Huile Prodigieuse have all been around since gen X (or even earlier). There’s almost nothing new under the sun in beauty. Even so-called millennial lifestyle trends like fitness

That’s not to say that beauty brand activation should be identical for different demographic groups. Demographics tend to be influenced via different devices and platforms/channels. For example, Kantar Millward Brown* found that 77% of millennials use a smartphone daily, dropping to 60% for gen X and 42% for baby boomers. Similarly, 58% of millennials use a laptop/PC daily, compared to 67% for gen X and 71% for boomers. Instagram rules millennials (55% of all online 18 to 29 year olds and only 11% of 50 to 64 year olds, according to the Pew Research Center**), while YouTube and Facebook are the boomers’ favorites. The style of brand engagement has to reflect the target consumer’s media habits. Snappy, short GIFs and smart filters for Snapchat, more in-depth how-tos for YouTube. Brand imagery has to be similarly considered for smaller screens—something to think about in terms of a brand’s identity and overall look. *www.millwardbrown.com ** www.pewresearch.org

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Attitude and Story Are What Count But those platforms/channels are just a conduit—they say nothing intrinsic about brands themselves. What sets an enduring beauty brand apart is its attitude and story: about the founder, provenance, purpose in the world and/ or efficacy. Does that really need to be tied down to one demographic? Or is tiered brand activation more widely effective, with tailored content suitable to each platform? I would argue very strongly yes to the latter, especially when you see that influential beauty gurus like Caroline Hirons and British Beauty Blogger still lead the way due to their voices of experience, reason and cynicism, rather than breathless hype about the very latest thing.

Multigenerational Brands Some brands do this tiered approach incredibly well. Powerhouse MAC speaks for makeup artistry—and schoolgirls in uniforms flock to the shops and counters alongside mature shoppers buying their red Ruby Woo lipstick for the 20th time. No age group is excluded. MAC finds ways to include everybody, offering multiple ways to engage. Aesop, The Ordinary, Kiehl’s and NYX similarly appeal to consumers of all ages by telling a consistent, authentic brand story, in-store and online, with a stripped-back, confident Beauty trends such as personalization, multipurpose/convenience formats and aesthetic and tone. natural/organic are frequently attributed Given their level of to the rise of millennials as a consumer group. But products such as NARS The social engagement, Multiple have been around since at least it’s tempting to tie an the era of gen X. innovation or a brand story to a young demographic or Instagram microtrend. This not only narrows your potential market, but as that young demographic ages, you’ll always be left behind. Witness Abercrombie & Fitch’s exclusivist, youth approach. Its core customer base from its 1990s heyday is all grown up, and the brand recently saw its 16th straight quarterly sales decline. Beauty brands that want to be in it for the long haul should beware. n

SARA JONES is a partner and client services director at DewGibbons + Partners (http://dewgibbons.com).

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Rethinking

Anti-aging Demographics and consumer mindsets have changed; products designed to address their aging goals also need to change.

| BY SARAH BACHIR AND HÉLÈNE MUCHICO, Silab, Saint-Viance, France nti-aging has both shaped and dominated the beauty narrative for the past few years, but has become stagnant and lacking in innovation. At the same time, demographic realities and projections have had an impact on the beauty industry and its future.

More Aging Consumers According to the World Health Organization (WHO), life expectancy increased by five years between 2000 and 2015, the fastest gain since the 1960s.a Consequently, seniors—adults more than 60 years old—will account for 22% of the world’s population by 2050.b a www.who.int/gho/mortality_burden_disease/ life_tables/situation_trends/en/ b

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english.inserm.fr Global Cosmetic Industry

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RETHINKING ANTI-AGING

Older, Happier, Feeling Younger For women, the gap between actual and perceived age widens with time, meaning that the older they become, the younger they feel.c In fact, the Yale School of Public Health has illustrated that the way we perceive aging has a direct impact on aging itself. In a 2016 publication, B.R. Levy and A. Bavishi found that positive aging self-perceptions have led to longer survival. In “Survival Advantage Mechanism: Inflammation as a Mediator of Positive SelfPerceptions of Aging on Longevity,” the authors wrote, “We examined whether C-reactive protein (CRP), a marker of cumulative stressrelated inflammation, mediates the relationship between [self-perceptions of aging] and survival.” Furthermore, a study in the Journal of Clinical Psychiatry Reports showed older people tend to be happier—fewer incidences of depression, anxiety and stress—than younger people, and that their happiness increases with their age. In “Paradoxical Trend for Improvement in Mental Health with Aging,” M.L. Thomas et al. wrote, “These cross-sectional findings suggest the possibility of a linear improvement in mental health beginning in young adulthood … ” Older consumers are also more connected than ever before. For instance, in France, 80% of women aged 55 to 64 years old are digital users.d Due to their connection to the digital world, these consumers are increasingly more aware of their health and attractiveness. At the same time, access to more sophisticated beauty products is rising.

evolving along with the consumer. The struggle against the effects of the time and the fight against wrinkles are no longer expressed in the same way. More and more, the beauty industry openly discusses getting older and

feeling good in age. This situation is already very visible on the market from senior models in women’s magazines to sexygenarian bloggers and silver-haired YouTubers who symbolize the “chic emblem of the well-aging.”

Second skin with film-forming properties based on Silab’s

F-1. Interpenetrating BioPolymer Network

The three building blocks of mechanobiology to deliver

F-2. anti-gravity effects, firmness and stretching benefits

Changing the Aging Conversation The mode of communication around the dynamic anti-aging segment is c,d

www.ipsos.com/en

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Senior models in women’s magazines, sexygenarian bloggers and silver-haired YouTubers symbolize the “chic emblem of the well-aging.”

Anticipate the Ravages of Time Older millennials desire to protect their skin’s youthfulness and to combat the effects of fatigue. As a tech-savvy generation, they’ve become aware of the harmful effects of pollution and other environmental components on their skin. Therefore, they look for products that match their skin-profile, provide protection from environmental factors and provide breathability. The solution? Design products that behave like a second skin, offering a protective, lifting film, as well as a natural touch and noticeable something extra, as seen in F-1.

Slow Down Time Active 40-something mothers and other busy consumers demand products that address the appearance of early wrinkles and place a premium on immediate and deep efficacy. The solution? The activation of biological mechanisms that deliver the skin’s elasticity, revitalize expressiveness and work fast, as seen in F-2.

Enjoying Aging The focus on age must be replaced by a timeless attractiveness. Those in their “happy 50s” want to age gracefully and accept their appearance by promoting their well-being. Over the last 30 years, consumers have gradually expended their perception of anti-aging from fighting wrinkles to accepting signs of aging, while remaining elegant. www.GCImagazine.com

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RETHINKING ANTI-AGING

F-3. The well-aging concept decrypted at three levels

This beauty vision is based on enhancement of well-being and staying in harmony with age. Brands should respond by delivering anti-aging solutions that stimulate the tissue metabolism in order to maintain or restore radiance, calmness, hydration and firmness, thus revealing healthy mature skin (see F-3).

Well-aging is the Future The continuing innovation and merging between wellness and beauty will lead to a new direction for beauty players. Consequently, consumers will prefer a holistic message of aging with grace, backed up with the latest natural technical solutions. n

HELENE MUCHICO is an agro-engineer who graduated with a marketing degree from HEC Paris. She is passionate about beauty trends and consumer behavior studies and leads the project management team for the marketing and sales departments at Silab (www.silab.fr ). SARAH BACHIR analyzes the B-to-B skin care market for the marketing and sales department at Silab and provides business inputs to the worldwide team. She majored in cosmetology at the University of Pharmacy in Nantes.

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PRO-AGING FOR M Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re never too young for healthy aging.

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Global Cosmetic Industry

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R MILLENNIALS | BY LISA DOYLE

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or a beauty brand dedicated to healthy aging, the undisputed target market is the baby boomer population, currently aged in their early fifties through early seventies. It would follow then, that a proactive brand would look at gen Xers as their up-and-coming customers, and focus their future

formulation and marketing efforts toward this demographic. Right? Well, not necessarily. Millennials, currently on the cusp of 20 through their mid-thirties, are prone to many of the same risk factors as their boomer counterparts, including damage from sunlight, pollution and lifestyle, which can lead to serious skin concerns years down the line. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pro-aging for Millennials 27

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PRO-AGING FOR MILLENNIALS

Blue light exposure represents an emerging skin concern radiating from our electronic devices.

why savvy industry leaders are creating the pro-aging solutions that resonate with millennials today for healthier skin tomorrow.

Let There be Less Light UV is one of two key light-based risk factors for skin. Healthy aging demands a response. “Millennials, regardless of skin color, must protect skin against harmful UV rays,” insists Funlayo Alabi, CEO of beauty brand Shea Radiance. “Use of sunscreen is no longer negotiable.” While boomer skin care tends to focus more on reparative solutions, skin care targeted to millennials can urge them to take a proactive approach.

“The most important factor for reducing excessive skin aging is to block UV exposure, and to modify DNA at the cellular level by influencing DNA integrity,” says Brien Quirk, director of R&D at Draco Natural Products, based in San Jose, California. “Our Telomere gene restoration botanicals— Cynomorium, Astagalus, Portulaca oleracea, Epidemium and white willow bark—can actually stop or reverse the aging of the skin at the DNA level by restoring telomere length.” Lucas Meyer Cosmetics recently launched MelinOil, a biomimetic peptide designed to improve natural cell UV and visible light protection by melanin, and promote DNA repair to limit photoaging. As a bonus, it can be

incorporated into multiuse products, satisfying the millennial need for a quick and easy skin care regimen. “The outstanding results in cell protection, enhancement of tan and reduction in sun-induced erythema allow manufacturers to answer the trend of active sun care products,” explains Isabelle Lacasse, global marketing director, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. Artificial blue light is the second type of common emission that can harm skin. Emitted from phones, tablets and other electronic devices, blue light represents an emerging threat and marketing claim. For instance, Murad’s City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50 PA++++ mineral sunscreen

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MARKET SNAPSHOT: GLOBAL ANTI-AGING* Global anti-aging market, 2016 Mass market Premium market

$13.3 billion $11.8 billion $1.6 billion $2.2 billion

U.S. mass market U.S. premium market Asia-Pacific mass market Asia-Pacific premium market

North America mass market North American premium market

Western Europe mass market Western Europe premium market

Latin America mass market Latin American premium market

$1.8 billion $2.45 billion $2.9 billion $2.46 billion

Mass market

$1.3 billion $444.5 million

$5.8 billion $5.85 billion

–0.7%

Premium market

U.S. mass market growth forecast through 2021 (CAGR)

U.S. premium market growth forecast through 2021 (CAGR)

4.1%

Top anti-aging markets for premium and mass • Asia Pacific • Western Europe • North America • Latin America

Top 3 U.S. premium anti-aging brands 1. Estée Lauder 2. L’Oréal Group 3. Rodan & Fields

Top 3 U.S. mass anti-aging brands 1. Procter & Gamble 2. L’Oréal Group 3. Johnson & Johnson

*Source: Euromonitor International 2017; www.euromontor.com

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PRO-AGING FOR MILLENNIALS

#NOFILTER At what age should one start a pro-aging skin care regimen? • “Anyone with sun exposure should begin using anti-aging products at the earliest age possible. Alcohol and fried foods increase inflammation and free radicals, impacting millennials in their late teens and early 20s who regularly eat these types of foods. This makes anti-aging defence strategies all the more important at this age.” –Brien Quirk, director of R&D, Draco Natural Products • “Fair-complexioned women are more likely to see the aging effects of sun damage sooner and should start a proactive regimen in their mid-to-late 20s. In my experience, women with dark skin typically do not have to worry about antiaging until their late 30s and early 40s.” –Funlayo Alabi, CEO, Shea Radiance • “Around the 20s is a good age to start [using pro-aging skin care products] in order to minimize the appearance of expression wrinkles, which are the first wrinkles to appear.” –Elena Cañadas, global marketing and communications manager, active ingredients, Lubrizol Skin Essentials

offers UVA and UVB defense, along with protection against the blue light from electronic devices. “Citystem is an anti-pollution active ingredient, and it is a global solution against different forms of pollution,” says Pascaline Criton, technical marketing manager of Sederma, based in Le Perray-en-Yvelines, France. Sederma’s Citystem, a plant cell culture extract, reportedly protects the skin against the harmful effects of screen light by neutralizing toxic oxidation factors and reducing inflammatory potential into skin cells.

Skin Smoothing and Brightening In addition to providing protection to keep their skin looking fresh years down the line, millennials also seek skin care products that will keep them selfie-ready today. “Millennials look for personal care products containing antioxidants, but also, their concerns are around having an immediate effect against skin imperfections such as oiliness, acne and dark spots,” says Elena Cañadas, global marketing and communications manager, active ingredients, of Lubrizol Skin Essentials in Barcelona. “Matmarine blue ingredient can be

Fillerina has introduced a noninvasive hyaluronic acid regimen that allows millennials to safely contour their faces and reduce the appearance of wrinkles

used in any type of formulation for the daily routine to reduce pore size and mattify the skin, leading to a more uniform complexion.” “Millennials are all about personalization, so it is important to develop ingredients specifically for the age and gender that not only target aging, but skin health in general,” says Lacasse. To that end, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics offers Miniporyl, a pore minimizer active that also refines skin texture and reduces sebum production. According to Alabi, a skin brightening regimen should be maintained throughout one’s twenties. “Products that deliver skin brightening, smoothening and tightening benefits appeal to millennials looking for smooth, even-textured skin,” she says. Among this category of products in the Shea Radiance line is the Advanced Brightening Body Cream, enhanced with vitamin B3, vitamin C and pumpkin extract. Recently, DSM unveiled a Wrinkle Rebel demo product based on its small synthetic peptide, which reportedly helps to quickly reduce the appearance of wrinkles and laugh lines around the forehead, mouth and lip.

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The company’s demo also included a biotech-developed microalgae that offered instant skin tightening and a long-term firming effect, as well as Amphisol K, which stabilizes formulations and offers a luxurious skin feel. DSM noted that the Wrinkle Rebel fights the signs of aging before they’ve formed, offering millennials with a fast-acting, preventative solution. Similarly, millennials who are looking to contour their faces for fuller lips or cheeks will find that beginning injection regimens at a young age could have negative unintended consequences. Therefore, topical alternatives offer a way to tap into this critical consumer base with offerings that deliver non-invasive, naturallooking solutions. During the recent Cosmoprof North America event, Fillerina displayed its Swiss-manufactured Dermo Replenishing Treatment, a topical filler alternative to hyaluronic acid injections. The Swiss dermocosmetic brand uses six sizes of hyaluronic acid molecules to penetrate to the dermis layer of the skin. The 14-day treatment course reportedly reduces the appearance of wrinkles and enhances the appearance of the cheek bones. Results last up to three months. The two-phase treatment can be precisely applied to target areas using the syringelike applicator. The first phase, the Replenishing Gel Preparation, is a plumper that reduces wrinkle depth and creates volume in the cheekbones and lips, while the second phase, a Nourishing Film, leaves a soft feel to the skin via ingredients such as vitamin E, meadowfoam seed oil and shea butter. The Fillerina Dermo Replenishing Treatment is available in three grades of intensity, depending on age and need—ideal for millennials just dipping into the anti-aging game—and priced between $150 and $175. The treatments can be supplemented and prolonged by the Fillerina Night Cream and Fillerina Lip Plump. www.GCImagazine.com

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Be Millennial-Friendly Among the most important things to consider when targeting the millennial demographic is ensuring that the holistic product experience—from shopping through consumption— exceeds their expectations. “A product appropriate for a millennial should be developed with their online shopping habits in mind,” says Alabi. “The online experience should incorporate technology that allows the user to enter in their antiaging/skin care challenge and have a regimen prescribed for their very specific need. Also, it’s critical to engage tastemakers and influencers, as they tend to create videos and solicit product reviews that help market brands via word of mouth. Product reviews are key in purchasemaking decisions.” In addition to marketing it correctly, the product should take into account the millennials’ need for speed and efficiency. “For millennials, the routine must fulfill the experience as ‘fast and fun,’” says Cañadas. “Multifunctional ingredients are needed for offering as many benefits as possible with less time, and quick absorption is an important factor as well. Following the selfie culture, millennials are more appearance-conscious with instant effects than the older generations.” As with any market, education about why your products matter—and why consumers need to be proactive about skin care at a young age—is key to drawing in millennials. Lacasse concludes, “The sooner millennials protect their skin against the damage caused by sun exposure, pollution and blue light from their phones, the better the quality their skin will be in the long run.” n

LISA DOYLE was formerly the associate editor of Global Cosmetic Industry and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has also appeared in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon, Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.

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FINANCE YOUR BEAUTY BRAND How to get money for your dream, spend it wisely and keep from running out.

| BY ADA POLLA, Alchimie Forever

ou’ve crafted your brand story, developed your formulation and defined who will help you manufacture it. Now, how do you finance your project? In business school, I learned about the various types of financing:

Savings. If you have any, pour them into your project. No explanation needed.

The three Fs—family, friends and fools. This is really just the two Fs, of course. If you need capital to launch your brand, the first place to go to is within your own network. Reaching out to your friends, former colleagues and family members is the first step. Being able to show them a business @GCI_Magazine

plan and that you have invested some of your own money in the project will help make your pitch easier.

Angel investors. These affluent individuals invest in startups and new businesses in exchange for convertible debt or equity. If you are lucky, you have an angel investor or two in your circle of friends. If not, perhaps a friend of a friend knows a business angel. There are also various networks and groups of angel investors that you can reach out to, including Hub Angels (Boston) and Golden Seeds (New York).

Family offices. This refers to a family controlled investment group. The family has accumulated wealth, usually through facebook.com/gcimagazine

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a business of their own, and is now interested in investing in various ventures, often in the same industry in which they made their money.

Venture capital. Firms or funds provide this type of financing to small, early-stage companies deemed to have high growth potential. VCs typically have a shorter-term outlook, expect high growth rates and a quick return.

Debt. One should not forget debt as a form of funding. If you don’t yet have a banker (not a bank), get one. A good relationship with your banker will go a long way toward helping fund your business. Loans and lines of credit may not be as sexy-sounding as angel Global Cosmetic Industry

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investors, but these are powerful financing tools.

Financing: My Experience I run a growing, family-owned, bootstrapped brand, Alchimie Forever. Our financing derives from savings, friends and family, and debt. While we have never officially searched for outside capital, I have spoken to entrepreneurs, investment bankers, people in private equity, family offices and angel investors. Here are some of the lessons I learned during these conversations.

It’s all about who you know. Grow your financing network before you need outside financing. I have met investment bankers, private equity leaders, angel investors and more through the industry: at conferences, through other entrepreneurs and through friends of friends. Like with all relationships, maintain them, take care of them, spend time on them. They will serve you well when the time comes for fundraising.

Take your banker to lunch, and never surprise her. Make sure you have a relationship with your banker. Not with a 1-800 bank toll-free number or a bank teller. An actual person who knows you, your account, your history. My banking relationship has been essential to my business. I chose to work with a smaller regional bank—Eaglebank in Washington, DC—specifically because I thought my relationship would be more personal, and my (small)

business more important to them. I also learned early on that bankers hate surprises, good or bad. My banker knows my business, and in particular is aware of any challenges as they arise. Honesty is the best policy!

Grow your financing network before you need outside financing. It’s like a marriage. When choosing an investor or strategic partner, chemistry is key. There will be good times and there will be less good times, so make sure the relationship you are in is one based on trust, shared values and mutual respect. An investor will do significant due diligence before investing in a business. A business should always do the same. If it doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t.

Spend the money on the right initiatives. Are you fixing cash flow problems? Is the additional capital going to

BEAUTY BRAND LEADER FUNDAMENTALS Read earlier editions of Polla’s beauty brand insights: “Defining Your Brand Story,” March 2017 “Choosing the Right Beauty Care Manufacturer,” June 2017 www.gcimagazine.com/magazine/pastissues

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go toward growing the business? Do you need to fund a one-time national rollout with a new retail partner? The use of the capital is key. Typically, paying employees or funding inventory is not the best use of investment money, as these are ongoing operational needs that will not go away.

Figure out where you stand on growth versus profitability. I have yet to find a consensus on the debate between growth and profitability. Some will argue that growth is the only thing that matters. More, more, more, faster, faster, faster. Growth is a sign of traction in the marketplace, is sexy and typically leads to interest from outside investors and, ultimately, success. Right? Some will argue that a positive bottom line is more important. Positive cash flow is a sign of a sustainable business, and is healthy. What most will agree on, however, is that growth for growth’s sake is not interesting. Not all growth is created equal, and investors will look for quality growth.

Your gut is usually right. Don’t underestimate your gut feeling. Whether it be in terms of timing (only you will know when the time is right to seek outside capital or a strategic partner), or in terms of figuring out who the right partner is.

Finally, DROOM. One of my favorite acronyms is DROOM, which was coined by Marla Malcolm Beck, CEO of Bluemercury: don’t run out of money! n

ADA POLLA (ada@alchimie-forever. com) is the co-creator of the Swiss antioxidant skin care line, Alchimie Forever, which launched in the U.S. in 2004. Her strategic focus and implementation have yielded double-digit annual revenue growth for the company. Polla holds an MBA from Georgetown University, majored in art history and political science at Harvard University, and graduated magna cum laude with a Bachelor of Arts degree in 1999. She is also a Global Cosmetic Industry editorial advisor.

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Boost Your Sampling with Hotel

Amenities

How to create a program that builds big brand equity.

| BY NIKOLA CLINE, Brandettes

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onsumers love to try something new for free, which is why sampling is a vital component of any marketing plan. Most brands spend thousands, if not millions, on trial at the point of sale, whether it’s a gift with purchase or a beauty box subscription. Depending on the space you’re in, these methods are a solid part of the marketing mix, but it’s time to look beyond.

sized products found on the bathroom vanity, in the shower, or sometimes even bedside, if you’re staying at the Westin. According to a 2016 study conducted by Deloitte*, travelers are seeking brands that offer outstanding service individualized to their particular needs. Hotel amenities, in particular, are a great opportunity for both sampling and brand experience. Shampoo, conditioner, body wash, bar soap, lotion and sunscreen are no longer plain label commodities

Shampoo, conditioner, body wash, bar soap, lotion and sunscreen are no longer plain label commodities haphazardly strewn on the bathroom counter—they are high-powered brand partnerships, carefully crafted to elevate the guest experience.

Consider this: Where can you sample a beauty product to a potential customer in the same room in which they will actually use it? A hotel amenity program is one of the most compelling and forward-thinking sampling opportunities today, and it should be on every marketer’s radar.

Elevating Experiences, Brands and Proﬁtability Amenities, by definition, are the identifiable and unique extras that hotels provide guests to maximize comfort. In personal care, it’s the tiny www.GCImagazine.com

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haphazardly strewn on the bathroom counter—they are high-powered brand partnerships, carefully crafted to elevate the guest experience. And, of course, they boost the profitability of the brands involved. Amenity partnerships are lucrative for the beauty brand and the hotel partner alike. According to research conducted by a private firm and shared with me, more than 40% of hotel guests surveyed say they have purchased a personal care product that *www2.deloitte.com

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BOOST YOUR SAMPLING WITH HOTEL AMENITIES

planning, a beauty brand can find that sweet spot in the right partner. • Research hospitality partners that share your brand’s vision, mission, demographics and design aesthetic. • Consider partners that offer enhancements for your alreadyestablished core audience, not a divergent consumer group. Hospitality programs are best used to complement your brand, not revamp it. • Run the numbers and offer products in your brand that have healthy margins and wide appeal. Keep in mind, some hotel partners may have refined taste on a limited budget.

2. Prepare Amenity programs, like everything else, depend on successful execution. Before you reach out to hotel partners, it’s essential that you line up your operations support ahead of time. Leave the sparkly stuff for later.

More than 40% of hotel guests surveyed say they have purchased a personal care product that they first tried during a hotel stay—and typically, they do so within 90 days.

they first tried during a hotel stay—and typically, they do so within 90 days.** Even the most sophisticated sampling program would be hard-pressed to yield anything close to those results, let alone drive that kind of exposure 365 days a year. If you’re considering an amenity program, or are just curious, here are a few guidelines to create a solid program with standout results. **1,000 occasional to frequent travelers between the ages of 25 and 54, showing household incomes of $75k+ (2013)

3 Steps to Launch Your Hospitality Partnership 1. Plan The Bliss brand was a pioneer in creating a robust hospitality program with W Hotels and strong co-marketing to back it up. I, along with countless others, first experienced the brand during a hotel stay and became a big fan. At the time, Starwood owned Bliss, so the synergy was a no-brainer. But, ownership aside, it all started with a shared set of core values. With proper

• Find a manufacturing supply chain partner like KIK Custom Products, Guest Supply or other group to partner with. Experts will help alleviate the pains associated with trailblazing a new relationship of this scale. • Create a short but powerful presentation that showcases the best your brand has to offer. Include the founder’s story, brand vision, demographics, top sellers, product awards, press, social media following and media. • Develop a prototype package, usually less than 1 oz, which complements your brand and products. Be mindful of cost, washroom merchandising and recyclability. Make it functional—a clear or translucent package is often preferred by hotels, so their housekeeping staff can determine if a bottle is new or needs to be replaced.

3. Partner and Promote Multi-year, exclusive amenity programs for large global brands are

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now the norm. Be prepared for your amenity program acquisition phase to be a marathon, not a sprint. The more you can understand about a potential partner and work with them across multiple channels, the more likely you are to win favor. • Be of service and consider ways you can partner with the hotel brand to drive a memorable experience. Do this through custom promotions, special events, new product exclusives and social media partnerships that don’t just give love to the launch, but add value for the long term. • Get help from the inside and look for ways to involve team members from a variety of disciplines on both sides. Often, hotel brands have a task force of well-respected franchise owners or hotel managers that offer incredible guest insights. Take the

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opportunity to get feedback from this group on how to make the partnership work seamlessly. • Tap into the media to promote engagement opportunities from the launch and beyond. Social media takeovers and influencer marketing programs are excellent ways to amp up the exposure and generate excitement for all brands. The direct-to-consumer engagement can also be tracked and followed up on much better than traditional advertising.

Expand Your Brand Reach Embracing the right amenity program for your brand can dramatically increase your product’s

reach, add meaningful revenue to the bottom line and increase trial. We all know that customers are more likely to purchase a product after trying a sample. With hotel amenities, you can expand your reach and place your brand in the right place at the right time for a future sale. What could be more hospitable than that? n

NIKOLA CLINE (nikola@brandettes. com) is the award-winning founder of Brandettes, an LA-based agency that supports CPG brands with brand strategy, product innovation and strategic partnerships. Nikola secured the largest global amenity partnership active today, between Paul Mitchell and Marriott International, during her 10+ years leading marketing for John Paul Mitchell Systems. She continues to work with brands, large and small, to drive brand growth through clever programs and creative marketing.

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IMPULSE CONTROL In today’s path to purchase, desire is the new need; Part 2 of a 4-part series.*

esire, rather than need, is driving today’s beauty consumer to buy, which represents a dynamic change from the beauty consumers of yesterday. Traditionally, beauty has been a product women purchased when they “needed it,” such as when they ran out of their face wash, or had a special occasion. In 2006, 61% of mainstream shoppers only purchased a new product when they ran out, as compared to 19% of shoppers in 2016. More than ever, women are stuffing their makeup bags with products simply because they would like to have them. Need is no longer the driving

| BY DENISE HERICH, The Benchmarking Company

factor in her purchase decision (see: How Beauty Consumers Shop Now.)

Digital Disruption Technology has caused a seismic shift in the way women shop. Ten years ago, the idea of buying lipstick or moisturizer via a cell phone or tablet was an outlandish idea. Today, it’s par for the course as a vast majority of consumers turn to online shopping in favor of an in-store excursion. And with that, there is an expectation that the online experience will be every bit as rich and tactile as shopping in-store. Marketing, customer acquisition strategies, loyalty programs, sampling—all consumer outreach must be crafted with an eye on how it will

*The Benchmarking Company’s (TBC) “2016/2017 PinkReport: 10 Year Beauty Benchmark: A Consumer Love Affair with All Things Beauty,” provides an in-depth look at the U.S. female beauty consumer. This report details extensive quantitative primary research designed to uncover the aspects of this consumer’s interaction with beauty, as well as what is and is not driving her interest in your brand or store. Thousands of U.S. women were invited to take part in the online survey, which was completed by 6,212 female beauty consumers who have used beauty products within the past 12 months of the study date. The comprehensive survey instruments, which included more than 75 in-depth questions, were developed based on exploratory psychometric and demographic questions. In order to qualify for this study, respondents had to be female and live in the United States, be between the ages of 18 and 70, and shop for beauty products. All research was conducted between May and June, 2016.

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Read Part 1 of this series, “Beauty Consumers of Every Age,” in the July/August 2017 issue of Global Cosmetic Industry ; find it in your digital edition (click on Back Issues) or online at www.gcimagazine.com/magazine/ pastissues/2017/.

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CONSUMER DATA & INSIGHTS

55% of

HOW BEAUTY CONSUMERS SHOP NOW

women have purchased beauty products at Amazon.com in the past 12 months translate to technology in order to truly capture her attention and to influence her decision to purchase. Today, the impact of technology can most clearly be evidenced by the advent of omnichannel marketing and brands’ social engagement with consumers. At a recent CEW event in New York, Lauren Brindley, GVP and GMM of beauty and personal care, Walgreens, noted that she crosspollinates her teams across channels in order to ensure digital and physical retail cohesion. In addition, all of Walgreens’ initiatives are built for the omnichannel, rather than reverse engineered after the fact. Brand strategies with big payoffs over the last decade have included: • Expansion of retail- and brandspecific e-commerce sites • Mobile optimization for websites/ecommerce sites • Online tutorials • Online communities • Social campaigns • Loyalty clubs • YouTube channels • Bloggers/vloggers • The almighty product review • Creation of product evangelist social circles

• 61% of mainstream shoppers only purchased a new product when they ran out (as compared to 19% of shoppers in 2006) • 41% of women shop for beauty products on a monthly basis • 69% of female beauty consumers say that Target and Walmart remain their primary destination for beauty shopping • 55% of women have purchased beauty products at Amazon.com in the past 12 months • 61% of beauty shoppers use the internet to buy beauty products • 56% of mainstream shoppers found out about new products via sampling as (compared to only 13% in 2006)

F-1. Top online activities as it relates to beauty, 2016 benchmarked

2006

2016

Compare prices

49%

72%

Read reviews

26%

69%

Make a purchase

43%

61%

When deciding which websites to browse and shop,

F-2. consumers seek

2016 Offers quality products

92%

Offers free shipping

91%

Offers a clear description of the product

90%

Has competitive/better pricing than other retail sites

88%

Offers easy to find product pricing

85%

Has online product reviews

85%

Easy to browse product categories

84%

Has online star ratings

81%

Can customize my search by concern/skin type/price

76%

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Seek and Ye Shall Buy F-3. 2016 impulse purchase drivers Millennials

Gen Xers

Baby boomers

Checking out sales

Reason

66%

62%

Watching tutorials (YouTube)

38%

23%

11%

Watching tutorials on a retailer’s website

Watching tutorials on a brand’s website

16%

10%

Reading positive product reviews

37%

34%

Reading a blogger’s column

18%

19%

12%

Post/email from a friend about the product

14%

19%

13%

A tweet about the product

11%

Customer rating of the product

25%

23%

22%

An email campaign from a retailer

26%

21%

Online article in a magazine (Allure, etc.)

14%

16%

12%

A brand’s Instagram campaign

15%

12%

Post by celebrity saying they love the product

11%

Personalized email from retailer

14%

19%

14%

Millennials

Gen Xers

Baby boomers

F-4. Where consumers regularly visit for beauty info All women Social media, i.e. Facebook

53%

57%

39%

Message boards/review sites

33%

37%

36%

20%

Sites with vloggers, i.e. YouTube

32%

49%

28%

14%

Blogger sites

26%

33%

25%

16%

According to our research, 55% of women say product reviews are one of their strongest influencers to buy a new beauty product, and 56% of women say that highly reviewed products (by consumers) is the most influential reason why she would decide to purchase a beauty product. Seeking out information on beauty products is also one of the primary reasons consumers make unplanned purchases. In fact, 37% of women admit that reading positive online reviews sways her to make that unplanned purchase. For more online activity insights, see F-1.

Making Purchasing Easier Brands and retailers that have invested in e-commerce platforms, mobile apps and the mobile optimization of their sites have prospered from the consumer’s love by making it easier for them to navigate and purchase with the click of a button. And, compared to 10 years ago, 74% of consumers are buying more beauty products based on their online activities. For more details on consumers’ online shopping desires, see F-2.

THE BEAUTY RETAIL POWER CENTER IS SHIFTING Although there has been a seismic shift in where (and how) women shop for beauty today vs. 10 years ago, one thing is still very much the same: superstores such as Target and Walmart remain the primary destination for beauty shopping for the majority of female beauty consumers (69%). However, this is where the similarities end. Today, specialty beauty retailers such as Sephora and Ulta (61%) and drugstores such as Rite Aid and Walgreens (62%) are more frequented than traditional department stores, which were much bigger players 10 years ago. And don’t discount non-traditional online: Amazon.com’s place in the beauty hierarchy is solid and increasing, with 55% of women purchasing beauty products there in the past 12 months—and only 2% saying they no longer purchase beauty products from Amazon.com. Today, the most successful beauty retailers are those that leverage an ever-growing arsenal of beauty tools to woo consumers away from just traditional beauty retail powerhouses.

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CONSUMER DATA & INSIGHTS

F-5. How women use beauty blogs, message boards and social media networks as it relates to beauty 2006

2016 All Women

2016 Millennials

2016 Gen-Xers

2016 Boomers

To read product reviews

77%

61%

63%

62%

57%

To get beauty advice/tips/secrets

39%

60%

68%

60%

47%

To keep updated on new products

31%

57%

58%

54%

To get coupons/samples

24%

56%

54%

56%

59%

To participate in promotions/sweepstakes

28%

51%

50%

51%

50%

To connect with people

67%

42%

47%

44%

28%

To keep updated on beauty events

48%

42%

44%

35%

To let others know my likes and dislikes

31%

37%

41%

24%

To ask questions/get opinions on beauty issues

27%

26%

31%

27%

15%

To be entertained

43%

22%

26%

21%

17%

To find links to other blogs

15%

18%

14%

n/a

12%

16%

12%

To track what others are saying/buying/ trending in my circle To read about celebrities

17%

Personalized email from retailer

14%

19%

4% 14%

F-6. Top reasons why she leaves comments online: 2006 vs. 2016 2006

2016 All Women

2016 Millennials

2016 Gen-Xers

2016 Boomers

I love the product and want to share my experience with other women!

63%

90%

92%

91%

84%

So others can benefit from what I learned in using a specific product

35%

80%

68%

60%

47%

To make sure others don’t make the same mistake I did

21%

58%

61%

60%

45%

Online Drives Impulse When she’s not using her online time to actually shop, a good portion of the beauty consumer’s time is spent using technology to gather information related to things she’d like to buy! Thirteen percent of women spend more than 50% of their “online time” looking for information related to making a purchase, such as price comparisons, reading consumer claims or reviews, researching products, etc. A further 23% spend just slightly less on this kind of research, anywhere between 26–50% of their time, while 8% dedicate nearly all of their time—

as much as 75%—in the pursuit of product and brand intelligence. And her efforts pay off. Unplanned and impulse purchases are also spurred, in part, by her online browsing and researching (F-3). She uses her online access to beauty blogs, message boards and social media networks as a means of gathering information pertinent to her purchase decision—from pricing to new products to the almighty product review. Once on her favorite social media site, what activities does she engage in that specifically relate to beauty? The answer is: research, research, research (see F-4, F-5 and F-6).

What’s Next In part 3 of this 4-part series, I will take a peek at what categories and brands are leading beauty today, and how the consumer’s shopping habits and preferences have changed. n Based in sun-seared San Diego, DENISE HERICH is co-founder and managing partner at The Benchmarking Company (www.benchmarkingcompany. com ). The Benchmarking Company provides marketing and strategy professionals in the beauty and personal care industries with need-to-know information about its customers and prospects through custom consumer research studies, focus groups, its annual PinkReport, and consumer beauty product testing for marketing claims.

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SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING Intuitive Restoration Renewing Mask by Schique Beauty ($80, 1.7 fl. oz.) is designed to soften, soothe, hydrate and protect the skin. The 20-minute creamy mask turns from light blue to dark blue as it is applied. Ingredient highlights: dandelion, aloe vera, apricot, basil, lentil seed, neem, apple, turmeric, jojoba. Retail: schique.com and ahalife.com.

Texen created the packaging design for HydraLife Dior, which includes a matte white oblong cap with a soft touch finish. The relief logo is engraved directly in the mold, while the capsule incorporates a PP insert and a screw closure that adjusts to the neck of the glass jar.

Shiseido’s WASO collection is aimed at millennials and features traditional natural ingredients from Japan, including ninjin (carrot), Biwa no ha (loquat leaf) and tofu. The collection comprises Clear Mega-hydrating Cream, Quick Matte Moisturizer Oil-free, Color-smart Day Moisturizer, Soft + Cushy Polisher, Quick Gentle Cleanser and Fresh Jelly Lotion. The full line is available through Shiseido’s website and will expand throughout 2017 and 2018.

LR Health & Beauty has launched the LR Aloe Via brand with a range of 40 products, including Face Care, Body Care, Special Care, Oral Care, Hair Care, Men Care and Baby Care. Dr. Thomas Stoffmehl, CEO of LR Health & Beauty, explained, “[O]ur products feature a particularly high aloe vera content—most of the products count between 30% and 60%. This content is shown on the packaging and thus also transparently visible for the consumer.”

Age vs. Memory Age

The age women hold for themselves in their mind’s eye, or “Memory Age,” is on average 10 years younger than their actual age, according to a survey of 350 U.S. women aged 30 to 70 conducted by Skin by Lovely. • ~62% of respondents in their 30s through their 60s reported a oneto 10-year difference in their Memory Age • ~40% were surprised by how much younger their Memory Age was • 40% of women associate their Memory Age with specific career stages

SEPPIC subsidiary Serdex has designed Subligana (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Harungana Madagascariensis Extract), an active ingredient for antiimperfection, anti-spot and flawless-looking complexion concepts related to oxidative stress. The titrated extract of Harungana madagascariensis is Cosmos compliant and sustainably sourced from Madagascar. According to SEPPIC, an in-use test on teenagers presenting acne-prone skin showed a significant reduction of whiteheads versus a placebo after 28 days.

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Chemyunion’s SkinBlitz (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract (and) Trehalose (and) Galactoarabinan (and) Glycerin (and) Xylitol (and) Sodium Phosphate (and) Sorbitol) is a film-former comprising natural polysaccharides that block out fine particle pollutants. The ingredient can prevent hyperpigmentation, protect DNA and keep keratinocytes alive in applications such as creams, gels, gel-creams, lotions and serums.

Bella Schneider Beauty’s Seaology Line Diminishing Serum with Collagen HA and Snail Enzyme ($75) features cruelty-free white snail mucin, hyaluronic acid and collagen. The serum works to repair the skin and reduce the appearance of pigmentation, large pores and fine lines. The hydrating serum also illuminates and tones the skin for plump and soft skin. Key ingredients include snail secretion filtrate, hyaluronic acid, and Hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) extract. The enzyme is sold at authorized spas and www.labelledayspas.com.

Researchers out of Mae Fah Luang University and Walailak University, Thailand, have a new passion for passion fruit: sun protection. A new paper published in the Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences describes how extracts from sustainably sourced passion fruit seeds were incorporated into two makeup forms and assessed in vitro for sun protection effects. Specifically, a liquid foundation and concealer mousse were formulated with pigments both without the extract and with the extract at increasing levels of 0.1% and 0.3%. Results indicated the natural passion fruit seed extract, enriched with beneficial phenolics, increased the UVB protection of both formulas. Interestingly, incorporation of the passion fruit seed extract significantly (p < 0.05) enhanced UVB protective efficacy of the concealer mousse vs. the liquid foundation. Moreover, a synergistic 7.34% increase with the pigments in the mousse was observed over the foundation. According to the authors, passion fruit seed has been widely used due to its potent antioxidant activity comparable to ascorbic acid and UV protection efficacy comparable to benzophenone-3, octylmethoxycinnamate and ferulic acid. Further, its sun protection properties are supported by its quercetin and rosmarinic acid content.

By the Numbers: Anti-aging in Asia Pacific* • 40%: portion of global anti-aging products launched in Europe • 37%: portion of global anti-aging products launched in Asia Pacific • 23%: portion of Asia Pacific anti-aging products launched in South Korea and Japan • 22%: portion of Asia Pacific anti-aging products launched in China • 7%: portion of Asia Pacific anti-aging products launched in Thailand • 6%: portion of Asia Pacific anti-aging products launched in India • 15%: growth of anti-pollution claims in Asia Pacific between 2015 and 2016 • 39%: portion of Chinese female consumers, aged 20-24, who are using anti-aging skin care products *Source: Mintel.com; for global anti-aging market figures, see Page 29

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ANTI-AGING INNOVATIONS

Silab’s Wellagyl (INCI: Rosa Damascena Flower Extract) is rich in oligosaccharides and activates the biological pathways “specific to aging well” at the cellular level and stimulates tissue metabolism, according to the company. The ingredient restores mature skin’s radiance, offers relief and renews firmness. The non-invasive ingredient allows consumers to achieve natural aged beauty.

Oléos has launched Organic Diam Oléoactif (INCI: Cocos Nucifera Oil (and) Oak Root Extract), a 100% natural and 70% organic active lipid complex, which helps reduce inflammaging. This ingredient was shown in vitro to reduce the secretion rate of inflammatory cytokines TNF-a and scavenge free radicals. In vivo, it helped to prevent the appearance of skin redness.

Mibelle Biochemistry has launched InfraGuard (INCI: Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Water (aqua)), a combination of Caesalpinia spinosa tannins and an extract of sunflower sprouts that protect the skin from infrared radiation aging. In vitro studies showed this ingredient blocks the formation of reactive oxygen species and inhibits MMP-1 up-regulation in fibroblasts after infrared irradiation. Volunteers participated in a placebo-controlled clinical trial of the ingredient over several weeks in a warm summer climate; results showed InfraGuard, in addition to UV sunscreens, provided skin protection.

IBR Ltd. has introduced IBR-CalmDeAge (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Seed Extract), which helps slow down cell proliferation and the effects of environmental aging factors. IBR-CalmDeAge also provides antioxidant protection, relief from rosacea and reduction of dark circles. Furthermore, the natural ingredient is free of preservatives and helps condition hair.

Hallstar’s Micah (INCI: Not Available) blocks the formation of lightinduced oxidative stress and prevents visible signs of aging such as damage to the extracellular matrix, loss of skin elasticity, and the creation of fine lines and wrinkles. The ingredient works by protecting against reactive oxygen species/free radicals in the UVA-1 region (340-400 nm), extending protection to the visible spectrum (>400 nm) and providing broader spectrum FR prevention.

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Virospack has debuted its soft touch finish, which offers a smooth, satin matte finish that can be rendered with a wide range of colors for an added “bright and velvety, eye-catching” effect. The finish can be screen printed, and paint can be made in gradient to determine the intensity of colors. It can be applied to tubular vials ranging from 2-30 ml, or molded glass bottles ranging from 15-30 ml.

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The Intensive Recovery Japanese Binchotan Zumi Mask ($5,000) contains Kishu Binchotan charcoal from a tree that has been growing in Japan since 1688. The double layer mask contains positive ions and aids in detoxifying and smoothing the skin for a younger appearance. Key ingredients include Kishu Binchotan charcoal, natural plant extracts and emollients. The mask retails at Tresor Rare stores and www.tresor-rare.com.

Coppertone Whipped ($13.99), available in both ClearlySheer and WaterBabies formulations, features a rich, creamy texture that absorbs quickly and feels light on the skin.

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AS SEEN @COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA In the age of Instagram and K-beauty, mask concepts are at an all-time high. Lace Your Face has developed a new cotton facial treatment mask that delivers clinical-grade compression as product is absorbed into the skin. The stretchable masks, similar to medical gauze, can deliver a range of the manufacturers’ formulas, from Clarifying Mulberry Leaf to Exfoliating Papaya. But the real innovation lies in the full-face sterilized compressor mask, which hooks over the ears and under the chin to stimulate the skin and blood flow. The company has developed consumer and professional grades of the brand. Each treatment pack contains one mask and 1.7 oz of serum, enough for two treatments.

Lace Your Face uses compression to stimulate blood flow.

Celebrity makeup artist Kim Borio is the CEO and founder of Glycelene, a vegan eco-ethical brand comprising natural and organic ingredients. She developed the brand with the assistance of her cosmetic chemist husband, Eric Borio, who works out of Borio Labs in Dana Point, California. Glycelene’s anti-aging Chardonnay Body Butter (pictured) contains Chardonnay grape seed oil to soften and hydrate the skin. Glycelene’s Chardonnay Body Butter Cactus Flower.

Marin Bee is a honey-based skin care brand that provides nourishment and detoxification.

Viñali is an organic skin care brand built around grape resveratrol.

Marin Bee is a honey-based skin care brand that provides nourishment and detoxification. The company’s sustainable honey is derived from California wildflower honey, which acts as a humectant, as well as a source of probiotics and enzymes, antioxidants, minerals and vitamins C,D and E, in addition to B complex. The skin care products are boosted by other natural materials such as aloe, shea, olive, coconut, jojoba, salt and oatmeal. A portion of the brand’s sales support the Planet Bee Foundation, an educational nonprofit. Marin Bee’s body care products include Honey Butter, Honey Polish for hands and feet, and the moisturizing Honey Shave. The brand’s face care range includes the Detox Masque, comprising pumpkin, clay and oatmeal, and Lip Repair, which comprises calendula, beeswax and pomegranate. Viñali is an organic skin care brand built around grape resveratrol. Its face oil offers anti-aging, cell regeneration and hydration activity, according to the brand. Viñali’s line also includes a vitamin E-rich dry face oil that also contains John’s Wort to soothe the skin and improve elasticity and impart a smooth and revitalized feel. It also offers a three-wick massage candle for spas and at-home use, which includes grape extract and sweet almond oil.

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HAIR

Walker & Company has introduced Form, a brand for women of color and created with all hair types and textures in mind. To personalize their product selection, consumers take an online consultation at https://formbeauty.com and are matched with a regimen for their specific needs. The customized product is then delivered to the customer with personalized usage instructions. Consumers can also participate in a beta test of the Form Hair Microscope Analysis Process by sending a hair sample to be scanned and analyzed by the company’s researchers in order to find the best regimen and educate the customer about their unique needs. Form currently offers 10 products that range from $22 to $32, along with a number of customizable combinations. The products include: two shampoos: clarifying detox and gentle cleansing shampoo; two conditioners: hydrating conditioner and restorative conditioner; 3-in-1 Leave-In Lotion; Elongating Curl Crème; Defining Curl Gel; Hydrating Style Cream; Shielding Heat Serum; and Moisture-Sealing Pomade.

Essential Rinse Purifying Scalp & Hair Toner by Younghee ($29) was inspired by household products that women have been using for years for their hair and skin. The rinse helps remove product build-up and refreshes hair without damaging and stripping the natural oils. After shampooing, it leaves the hair soft, shiny and residue-free. The brand is available in two formulas: apple cider vinegar and refreshing mint. The toner retails at www.essentialrinse.com.

Oxiteno has introduced Oxisense S 0440 (INCI: Not Available), a silicone substitute conditioning agent developed specifically for hair care, which promotes frizz control and helps mitigate daily damage.

Grant Industries has introduced GranRepair PowerBond (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Bis-PCA Dimethicone (and) Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate (and) Aminomethyl Propanol), a technology that protects existing disulfide bonds, while also reconnecting bonds broken as a result of excessive bleaching, treatment or flat-iron use. The silicone-composed bond cure technology helps soften and smooth hair noticeably, while also adding shine. The results of GranRepair PowerBond have been shown to withstand several hair washes and drying cycles. After use, the hair is left easy to comb through—whether wet or dry—and color intensity is improved. GranRepair PowerBond is designed for professional salon treatments and at-home maintenance products; it does not negatively affect bleaching processes or results.

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c s m o h a a

BASF’s PatcH20 biopolymers offer a controlled release of moisturization for the scalp and hair. The three-dimensional mesh mechanism deposits the hydrating complex onto the scalp, providing immediate hydration, as well as sustained hydration after five days. The ingredient performs well as a film former on hair tresses.

Curl Crème by Controlled Chaos ($39) brings curled coils to life while managing frizz. The cream equalizes porosity for big, bouncy curls without a sticky, crunchy or oily feel. Key ingredients: Lavender extract, shea butter, jojoba seed oil, rosemary leaf extract.

Treofan has debuted its hybrid packaging solution, HybraPack, which was developed with paper manufacturer Felmuehle Uetersen and deployed, as seen here, by Source’s Trinity hair care, which will package its products for hair care professionals in upright pouches. The packaging was designed to have sealed, leakproof seams and a barrier action that can be tailored to the storage life of the package contents. According to Treofan, the exterior provides design versatility, while opening aids and resealing options can be incorporated on a custom basis. The packaging’s eco profile can be boosted through the incorporation of biodegradable polymers obtained from renewable raw materials and by performing lamination without adhesive.

According to Euromonitor.com data, 10–20% of male consumers among all generations have a concern for balding. Silab’s Hairgenyl (INCI: Yeast Extract), an anti-hair loss active ingredient that is rich in biopeptides, supports the biological activity of the dermal papilla and stimulates hair follicle growth, according to the supplier. (The company’s ingredient is being represented by Cornelius, an independent European distributor.) According to various tests, the preservative-free powder acts on androgenetic alopecia by correcting the abnormal expression of both signaling molecules and epigenetics. Additional effects include an increase in mitochondrial fusion, which boosts the capacity for energy production used for growth of the hair follicle. Further tests performed over an eight-month period on male volunteers showed a 24.9% increase in hair density, 112.7% increase in hair growth and 34% decrease in hair loss. www.GCImagazine.com

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HAIR

AS SEEN AT COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA TruHair founder Chelsea Scott was inspired to develop products for quick fixes and multifunctional products for colored hair as a result of her own personal experiences. The result? A brand that recently won the BeautyID Audience Choice Award. The brand’s range includes the Color & Lift root cover and brush and the Volcanic Volume texturizing, lifting and cleansing volcanic spring powder. The company recently introduced a trio of new innovations: Extreme Volume Hairspray, the refillable Color & Lift To Go temporary powder color hair liner, and the Revive & Style instant temporary color mousse. The company’s product range has added gray to its color palette in response to women who want to correct yellowish roots or create volume but don’t want to mask their natural color. Scott recently explained that men comprise a significant portion of TruHair’s customers. Male consumers use the products in their hair and facial hair, she added.

Mane Choice is a “healthy hair growth” company, said CEO and founder Courtney Adeleye. The brand has launched everything from shampoos and conditioners to complete hair-healthy vitamin supplements. “Everything is designed to transform the hair,” she said. The brand launched to retail roughly 18 months ago and is now featured in more than 20,000 stores in the United States. Adeleye noted that The Mane Choice has been growing about 300% per year as a result of this rapid expansion. The Mane Choice has several lines, including Pink Lemonade for curly hair, Ancient Egyptian for antibreakage and repair, a moisturizing range, a growth range and a kid’s line. The company has also moved into the body care segment. Adeleye explained that a single consumer may use products from multiple

lines depending on their circumstances day to day and that she continues to respond directly to consumers’ questions via social media. She concluded, “They’re coming to you for a reason, so answer their questions because it might determine whether they purchase a product or not.” She added, “This consumer is reading the labels. They want to know about particular ingredients and whether they’re necessary or harsh.” As for what’s next, Adeleye noted that The Mane Choice is about to launch its male grooming line. In addition, while the brand sprung from the multicultural market, The Mane Choice is preparing to roll out a more general market hair care line.

Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher’s next chapter in the beauty world is Intelligent Nutrients, luxurious certified organic skin and hair care products that have the efficacy of traditional products and an enhanced environmental and safety profile. The brand uses certifications such as Oil Association Organic, USDA Organic, Cosmos Organic and more to solidify its safety and ethical positioning. The hair care products include a Styling Pomade containing acai and coconut oil and cocoa seed butter to prevent frizz and flyaways, while the Styling Gel includes acacia and xanthan gum and aloe vera juice to texturize or build volume. The skin care range includes the Time Traveler Serum, which comprises a red algae bioactive, sea daffodil and sea fennel, and Bidens pilosa plant retinol. The brand is currently distributed via the brand’s site, its stores in Minneapolis and New York, and salons and spas in the United States and select overseas markets.

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Developed in partnership with ProfilePro LLC, Cloud 10 Hair Care offers a full hair care line dedicated to fulfilling the customization wishes expressed by millennial consumers. To create their custom hair solution, customers engage in an online experience that guides them through a short series of questions to help them identify their specific hair care needs. Individual profiles are instantly matched to recommended shampoos and conditioners drawn from an inventory of 165 formulas. In addition to their main hair concerns, consumers can select from five scents, lather types and a selection of personalized label designs. The finished products are then shipped directly to the customer’s home. “Cloud 10 Hair Care is the ideal union of beauty, technology and community, and it was designed with the discerning millennial customer in mind,” said Ellen Langas, CEO of ProfilePro LLC. “We’ve created a streamlined online shopping destination that helps her cut through the clutter and discover her ideal shampoo and conditioner formulas. At the same time, we’re creating a fun, connected social community to share hair care tips, style ideas and inspiration.” Cloud 10 Hair Care formulas are produced by Originitalia Labs in Italy, and are formulated to be sulfate free, paraben free, cruelty free and safe for chemically treated hair. In addition to its online presence, the company is exploring retail opportunities with select partners that cater to the millennial market.

Givaudan has introduced ResistHyal, a bioactive ingredient that acts on the keratin infrastructure to offer multifunctional effects on dull, coarse hair, including hydration, thicker and tighter cuticles, anti-frizz, shine, softness and pollution defense.

www.GCImagazine.com

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MAKEUP Dr. Hauschka’s new makeup line is formulated with a blend of botanical waxes, oils or extracts from medicinal herbs. Materials for the products are largely sourced from certified organic cultivation and mostly meet Demeter and fair-trade standards. Each product in the line is also certified with NATRUE. The line comprises 29 products, including five shades of liquid foundation, three shades each of concealer and pressed compact powder, Light Reflecting Concealer, loose translucent powder, color correcting powder, bronzer, three shades of the Blush Duo compact, seven shades of eyeliner, three shades of Defining Mascara, Lash & Brow gel, five shades of lip liner and 18 shades of lipstick, six shades each of sheer lipstick and lipgloss, Translucent Lip Line Definer and more.

Liquid Glow by Anastasia Beverly Hills ($25) is a multi-use highlighter that can be layered with complementing complexion products for a luminous finish. The full pigment liquid formula is available in metallic and lustre finishes and dries down for a natural finish. Liquid Glow is available in four shades: Bronzed, copper bronze; Perla, white gold; Peach Fizz, amber gold; and Oyster, opal.

AS SEEN AT COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA

The SideCar Compact

Orly Breathable Treatment and Color in Fairy Godmother.

The Bow Tie stick

World Wide Packaging focused on innovations that offered a heightened experience for the consumer. The company’s dual-ended Bow Tie stick allows brands to fill the packaging with two different formulations, for instance a spot concealer, primer or day-night lipstick formula. Branding details can be embossed in the center section of the stick or added to the three-piece construction cap. World Wide Packaging’s Sidecar compact features a custom swing-out closure, which offers a transitional design feature that creates a smoothing contour to a normally square package. Cover options are available in clear or opaque, with or without a mirror. Insert options can be mono, duo, trio or quad.

Orly’s Velvet Kaleidoscope holiday shade.

Orly presented an expansion of its professional offerings at Cosmoprof, including 18 new Breathable shades, which provide lacquer lovers with the nailstrengthening benefits of nail treatments. Breathable Treatment + Color allows moisture and oxygen to reach nails, promoting stronger, healthier nails, while also allowing excess moisture to escape. Orly also previewed its fall and holiday collections, including the Velvet Dream Collection, which will be released in August. The shades include: Silken Quartz (Rose Quartz Foil), Just Bitten (Ruby Red Crème), Black Cherry (Cranberry Crème) Velvet Kaleidoscope (Purple Teal Iridescent Chrome), Blue Suede (Teal Denim Crème) and November Fog (Grey Lilac Crème). The event also highlighted the ascension of the next generation of the Pink family in the Orly Business. President and CEO Jeff Pink has named his children to the following roles: Shanee Pink, creative director; Ran Pink, content creator; and Tal Pink, digital director.

54 Makeup Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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Due to practical formulation limitations and market dynamics, the makeup segment has lagged behind skin care and hair care when it comes to the rise of natural products. However, MarketResearchFuture.com is now reporting that demand for non-toxic and allergen-free ingredients will drive the global natural and organic lipstick market to expand with a 6.5% CAGR by 2023. This rate will likely represent a faster expansion than the conventional makeup market, particularly in North America, according to the report. Notable brands include: Lotus Herbals (India), Beautycounter (U.S.), Nudus Pty. Ltd. (Australia), Lippy Girl Makeup Ltd. (Canada), Vapour Organic Beauty (U.S.), Ecco Bella (U.S.) and W3ll People (U.S.).

www.GCImagazine.com

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Givaudan Active Beauty has launched an active makeup formulation, S3D Fascination, which is a dark cherry color lip gloss featuring the company’s oil-soluble hyaluronic acid PrimalHyal Gold (INCI: PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (and) Water (aqua) (and) Octyldodeceth-25 (and) Sodium Hyaluronate), which offers moisturization, and Megassane (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract), which imparts anti-aging activity.

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MAKEUP

Fusion PKG’s Accelerate Drives Speed-to-Market in Hybrid and Skin Care Products

s Jason Jennings and Laurence Haughton wrote in 2002, “It’s Not the Big That Eat the Small... It’s the Fast That Eat the Slow.” That’s why Fusion PKG recently launched its Accelerate (www.fusionpkg-accelerate.com/) turnkey solutions for skin care and hybrid products. In the age of fast-fashion makeup brands, which has generated the acquisitions of nimble players such as Too Faced and Nyx by Estée Lauder and L’Oréal, respectively, as well as blink-and-you’ll-miss-it K-beauty innovations, brands of every size are increasingly focused on identifying and executing on trends more quickly. Doing so requires a shortening of the production cycle, which is particularly difficult in the skin care sector, where even smaller brands may require nine to 12 months to reach the market.

Brands can quickly identify white space or line extension opportunities and launch in a quick timeframe. Fusion PKG’s Accelerate program seeks to boost companies’ speed-to-market by pairing its packaging innovations with on-trend skin care and hybrid product formulations that have been pre-tested for stability and packaging compatibility. The company’s program offers skin care solutions such as cleansers, toners, serums, moisturizers, lotions, blurring creams, brightening pads, gels masks, peels, essences/oils, acne control products and balms, as well as hybrid product formulations such as primers, foundations, self-tanners/ bronzers, concealers, 2-in-1 benefit products/CC creams and cheek tints. All formulations can be tweaked to meet brands’ unique requirements.

During the recent Cosmoprof North America show, Fusion PKG demoed a K-beauty-inspired two-step fermented serum and oil for super hydrating anti-aging for morning and/or night. The formulation was housed in the Hook Up airless bottle, which comprises two 15 ml connected bottles. The first bottle contained the serum. The second bottle contained the oil, which can be applied once the serum is firmly worked into the skin, thus locking in hydration and leaving the skin feeling smooth—not oily. A micro peel treatment formula was housed in a travelfriendly airless direct applicator featuring nodules that allow the user to get into hard-to-reach areas. The formulation removes congestion from the skin and is ideal for the blackhead area, according to the company. The micro peel treatment can be used once to twice a week and offers instant results. In another demo, Fusion PKG used its Hybrid airless packaging to house a 7 g jar of blurring powder atop a 30 ml jar of sculpting cream. The bottom jar features a push-up control that allows the user to self-select their dosage. The cream is an everyday lotion featuring a small amount of blurring powder. Used alone, it can deemphasize imperfections. Users can add additional powder to the cream in the dispenser well or on the back of their hand as needed to boost and customize the blurring effect. The company’s vitamin C brightening lotion concept leveraged the Hybrid airless system to offer a powder vitamin C booster atop a lotion, ensuring the delivery of high levels of vitamin C without damaging the key ingredient by housing it within the emulsion.

56 Makeup Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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Faster Innovation = Faster Brands Fusion PKG’s Accelerate turnkey solution is targeted toward smaller brands that don’t have in-house resources for extensive stability testing or in-depth market and consumer trend reports. By partnering with an external resource, brands can quickly identify white space or line extension opportunities and launch in a quick timeframe—especially in the traditionally slower moving skin care sector. In addition to speed, the turnkey service may allow brands to keep their in-house teams a little leaner and to focus on marketing, branding, social media, operations and other critical elements of the business.

Trends for an Ever-changing Market With trends evolving from seasonality to a more rigorous 52-week cycle driven by social media and influencers, Fusion PKG has developed its packaging and formulations around a range of emerging concepts. By understanding trends, the company believes it has an edge in understanding how resulting products can be relevantly marketed and in

www.GCImagazine.com

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identifying strategies for clients’ future launches. The key trends Fusion PKG recently highlighted at Cosmoprof North America included: • Autocorrect: a concept built around luxurious formulations and textures that deliver blurring effects or self-healing tonics for acne-prone or sensitive skin. • Instaglam: selfie-ready beauty, powered by blurring and illuminating primers. • Anti-pollution: solutions to correct or defend against the formation of dark spots and discoloration of the skin. • Wellness: vitamin-rich, good-for-you formulations. • Transformational textures: experiential formulations, such as a cryo plump complex that offers a cooling shock to awake the skin. • Rituals: creating new skin care regimens built around cleansers, serums, lotions and more. • Farm to skin: edible textures, detoxifying and exfoliating formulas, and good-for-you ingredients. • Nature-inspired beauty: natural meets tech with enhanced natural concepts, high tech applications and natural brand stories. n

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BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE Baby Bath Product Market

t g E C c G h

According to an M&H Plastics (www.mhplastics.com) market report, the baby bath product market share of top brands was as follows: • Johnsons Baby: 11.2% • Walmart: 9.2% • Aveeno Baby: 3.7% • California Baby: 1.1% Growth by product segment (CAGR) is as follows: • Baby bath soaps: 5.73% • Baby shampoo/conditioners: 6.37% • Baby bath accessories: 5.12% The most popular baby packaging through 2020 will remain rigid HDPE bottles, according to the report, rising by 8% during the forecast period. Critical design elements include easy dispense closures and pastel packaging to highlight gentle and organic product facets. Brands are also creating differentiation through novel shapes, including characters. n

Carestia Arcade Beauty debuted two fragrance sampling solutions. The Scented Pochette comprises a blotter card that is sprayed with fragrance and then inserted into an airtight packet, allowing for minimal fragrance oil usage and more accurate fragrance rendition, including top notes. The blotters can be customized into various shapes. The company’s E-blotter comprises a QR code on a blotter that allows users to be scanned in order to receive a beauty sample from a kiosk. The blotters can be unscented or pre-scented. Arcade Beauty can create and print the QR code, create the event website, and conduct campaign tracking and analysis.

The Scented Pochette

The E-blotter

La Mia Perla by La Perla (£39-90) was created to be a “tribute to female beauty, power and strength” for women of all ages.” The fragrance is composed of top notes of mandarin, white pepper and sambac jasmine; middle notes of white peony, orris and suede; and bottom notes of Ambrox (Firmenich), sandalwood and Muscenone (Firmenich). The square glass bottle features rose gold accents, as well as a circular cap to represent a pearl. The scent comes in three sizes, as well as an eau de parfum rollerball, a body lotion and a shower gel.

Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance

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Pure Shave Scrub ($1.49-$26.99) by Pure Shave Co. contains argan oil, jojoba oil and coconut oil, as well as large granulated sugar crystals to exfoliate, protect and nurture the skin while shaving. By exfoliating the skin, the scrub helps prevent razor burns and bumps, ingrown hairs and hyperpigmentation. The scrub removes dead skin cells, dirt and impurities that could block the razor and provides a smoother shave. The scrub is available in single packs, 10-packs, 20-packs or 30-packs at www.pureshavescrub.com.

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Feminine care brands are stepping up their game to appeal to millennial consumers with a focus on gentle formulations and on-the-go formats. Summer’s Eve recently introduced a free-from line comprising Cleansing Cloths ($2.99)—individually wrapped cleansing cloths that are gynecologist-tested—and Gentle Foaming Wash ($4.99), which is formulated to help wipe away odor-causing bacteria and maintain the natural pH of the body. The products come in Mandarin Blossom and Coconut Water scents. Key ingredients include water, glycerin, decyl glucoside, lactic acid, sodium PCA and potassium sorbate. Meanwhile, SweetSpot Labs’ Neroli Mandarin Gentle Wash is 97% natural and pH balanced. The wash features coconut-derived cleansers and a tropical scent; key ingredients include apricot kernel, sunflower and panthenol.

Bio-Botanica has introduced Bio-Saponins, a blend of sarsaparilla root, wild yam root, quillaja root and yucca root, which produces natural foaming in products such as soaps, shampoos, creams, lotions, shaving products, body care and natural toothpaste.

Inolex has introduced Spectrastat G2-N (INCI: Caprylhy droxamic Acid (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glycerin), a natural, preservative-free system that uses multifunctional materials that act as biostatic and fungistatic agents in cosmetic and personal care products. The system is approved for use in organic personal care products, according to the supplier. www.GCImagazine.com

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BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE

Oxiteno has introduced Oxiflow S 6800 (INCI: Sorbeth-450 Tristearate (and) Water (aqua) (and) PEG-9 Cocoate (and) PEG-32 Distearate (and) PEG-175 Distearate), a mild rheological modifier with a sensory feel. The ingredient is cold processed, reportedly easy to incorporate into formulations and can be applied to facial cleansers, bath foams, liquid soaps, shower gels, shampoos and more.

Pujolasos took inspiration from “traditional Soviet packaging for its circular forms and sober aesthetic” and the “strong personality and an attractive aesthetic” of streetwear designer Gosha Rubchinskiy for Comme des Garçons’ newest fragrance, Rubchinskiy. The packaging features a PEFC certified ash wooden cap customized in ash gray.

Codif Technologie Naturelle has launched B-Shape (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Hydrolyzed FILE: upper arm toned Extract), which boosts lipolytic activity to refine, redraw and reshape the body’s outline, according to the company. The water-soluble material reportedly reshapes body contours within two weeks, developing a redrawn stomach and refined arms. 60 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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PRODUCTS and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

PACKAGING

PRIVATE LABEL

To reserve space in this section, contact

Kim Jednachowski

kjednachowski@allured.com • 1-630-344-6054 62 Products and Services Showcase Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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PRIVATE LABEL

www.GCImagazine.com

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Products and Services Showcase 63

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AD INDEX The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

PAGE

ADVERTISER

PHONE

WEB SITE

Albéa Group

1-908-689-3000

www.albea-group.com/en

Alpha Packaging

1-314-427-4300

www.alphap.com

Anisa International, Inc.

1-404-869-6475

www.anisa.com

Baralan USA

1-718-849-1600

www.baralanusa.com

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Brownyard Group

1-631-666-5050

www.brownyard.com

California SCC

1-310-214-0043

www.caliscc.org

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

Cosmetic Group USA, Inc.

1-818-767-2889

www.cosmeticgroupusa.com

Cosmopak USA/Cosmopak Europe

1-516-767-9119

www.cosmopak.com

Evonik

1-804-452-5616

www.elements-of-care.com

Extracts-Unlimited LLC

1-908-752-2322

www.extracts-unlimited.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

ICSC - International Cosmetic Science Centre

45-86-229-986

www.icsc.dk

Identipak, Inc.

1-956-630-4403

www.identipak.com

Kisaco Research/Beauty & Money

44-20-3696-2920

www.beautyandmoneysummit.com

Lady Burd

1-800-345-3448

www.ladyburd.com

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.

1-216-447-5000

www.lubrizol.com/personalcare

Mane USA

1-973-633-5533

www.mane.com

McKenna Labs

1-858-581-6888

www.mckennalabs.com

MORRE-TEC Industries, Inc.

1-908-688-9009

www.morretec.com

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1 Cover 2

Cover 3 11 insert

insert

Reed Exhibitions/in-cosmetics North America

www.in-cosmeticsnorthamerica.com

Sabinsa Corp.

1-732-777-1111

www.sabinsacosmetics.com

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc.

973-345-8600

www.vantagegrp.com

Verescence

1-212-753-4200

www.verescence.com

Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.

1-973-465-1200

www.welch-holme-clark.com

YonWoo/PKG

1-631-981-8701

www.pkggroup.com

Trends, insights and breaking news every business day: www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 64 Ad Index Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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Innovation

behind the beauty Business insights, data and news that empowers beauty and personal care executives to anticipate the next trend.

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Trends Shaping Beauty and Personal Care Innovations

Consumer-driven innovation is reshaping products from the inside out. | BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED, Editor in Chief

he relationship between brands and suppliers has never been stronger—and for good reason. In today’s environment of rapid innovation, ingredient suppliers are producing new active and functional ingredients, as well as re-leveraging existing technologies for new applications, in order to help brands tell better stories to their consumers. In addition to the use of demos to offer proof-of-concept, suppliers are conducting lifecycle, sustainability and

safety analyses on their ingredients and operations in order to reassure wary consumers and enhance the ecoethical positioning of formulations and products. All of this innovation is driven by one thing: consumer insights. Recently, Kunal Kumar, Ph.D., Evonik’s marketing manager, personal care, North America, spoke with Global Cosmetic Industry about the ways in which consumer behaviors and expectations are shifting around the world and how those shifts are impacting technology and products.

1. Experiential Products Since the last recession, consumers have increasingly focused on experiences over the accumulation of things. Brands, suppliers and technology companies have taken notice, leading to the prominence of haptics, or “the science of applying touch (tactile) sensation and control to interaction with computer applications,” according to TechTarget.com. In the beauty and personal care space, formulators and brands have

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sought to create new and interesting textures in products to give consumers an enhanced level of engagement. Novel textures, often inspired by the Asian market, include ice cream and mouse concepts that provide an extra emotional tie to products. These innovations create consumer interest, offer newness and fun, drive loyalty and provide a means of enjoying a beauty regimen. Evonik has created a number of texture-centric demos, including the Shape Memory W/O Gel, which boasts a self-leveling ability to give the consumer the “impression of a ‘fresh start’ before each use,” according to the company. Its transformative Magic Cream to Milk skin care concept uses milk-like droplets that can break on the skin to unleash moisturizing and brightening benefits. The company has also developed a Luxurious Whipped Cream, which has a creamy texture and soft skin feel upon application, as well as a Transformation Cooling Balm, which has a solid-like consistency and perceived cooling effect upon application.

Kumar noted that preferences between light and rich formulations depend upon the region. For instance, North American and Asian consumers favor lighter formulations and don’t care for products that leave behind a waxy film. Part of this is due to climate, Kumar said. In Europe, meanwhile, heavier, richer sensations are preferred, perhaps due to the cold. Understanding these differences can greatly enhance brand-building and marketing success. Perhaps no region has been considered a greater trend influencer in recent years than Asia. Kumar noted that the region has experienced rising demand for night masks that offer overnight rejuvenation. The popularity of sleeping mask formats in Asia has created new

demand in Europe and North America. Asian consumers are also seeking out masks in peel-off, wash-off and hydrating leave-on formats, as well as products that offer whitening, antiaging and skin radiance. In the United States, women are looking for products that offer a “detox” effect, as well as multifunctional beauty such as skin care-makeup bridge products. To that end, Evonik has developed a demo formulation, “Brilliant Tone-up Cream,” which offers moisturization and skin tone enhancement. In addition, U.S. consumers are attracted to beauty regimens but are generally overwhelmed by the number of options. Still, said Kumar, there remain opportunities to entice U.S. women toward multi-step regimens comprising lotions, toners, essences

2. Borderless Beauty In the age of the internet and social media, trends spread faster and wider than ever. But that doesn’t mean that beauty concepts have homogenized, said Kumar. Brands must take global trends and manifest them locally, and be aware of which categories lead in each region. For instance, hair care comprises a far bigger portion of the market in Latin America and Africa, compared to North America, while UVdefense has the strongest demand in Asia and Europe. Texture is also culture-specific. As brands draw inspiration from K-beauty and other Asian trends, they’re employing transformative textures that offer multiple sensory stages, such as a serum that turns into an oil. However, www.GCImagazine.com

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6 TRENDS SHAPING BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE INNOVATIONS

and serums, as well as for masks for different occasions, specific parts of the face and for overnight treatments. Kumar noted that overnight products offer formulators and brands new opportunities, particularly with sleeping masks and creams, wake-up creams, etc. These can be produced using nature-identical or skin-identical chemistry for bath, body, face (as seen with Evonik’s demo Restoring Sleeping Cream) and fragrance.

3. Athleisure Beauty

Indoors and Out

North American consumers take part in extensive indoor and outdoor exercise, creating two types of athleisure beauty needs. Evonik’s research found that the needs of the athletic beauty consumer included sweat and malodor control, extra moisture/care and convenience. In response, it developed several concept products, including an ACHfree dry and light deodorant stick, aftersun energizing and nourishing spray, refreshing power wipe and all-in-1 hair recharge for sport. Evonik’s exercise-proof foundation was created to allow active consumers to be selfie-ready post workout. The smudge-proof formulation has a light skin feel, according to the company.

4. Against the Elements Protection against elements— including UV exposure, indoor and outdoor air pollution, ambient dust, and blue light from screens—has been an increasing area of innovation. These environmental aggressors can lead to skin imperfections such as diminished radiance, pigmentation, dry skin and the appearance of fine wrinkles. Anti-pollutant/environmental aggressor protection claims have centered primarily in skin care and hair care. According to data provided by Kumar, the United States, United Kingdom, France and Germany have been dominated by products offering face protection.

Anti-pollution and antienvironmental aggressor innovation has led to new opportunities in intensive hydration masks and overnight sleep masks.

5. Telling a Better

Sustainability Story

From free-from to natural claims and Ecocert to COSMOS, formulators and brands are addressing an unprecedented number of standards. On a practical level, product developers are faced with challenges such as silicone-free primers, palm-free supply chains and animal-testing-free products. While there is no set definition of sustainability for ingredients or products, consumers are increasingly aware of products’ sustainability profiles. Evonik has leveraged its CAREtain platform to profile ingredients, processes and applications through a sustainability lens and to conduct lifecycle assessments. The company’s assessments evaluate the natural status, efficiency and multifunctionality of materials, as well as aspects such as cold processing and renewability. These analyses offer a 360-degree view of sustainability. Products that point to Evonik’s sustainable future include Ceramide III B, a skin-identical ceramide made from renewable ingredients, which can offer long-term protection and repair for sensitive and dry skin, while also restoring damaged hair and protecting it from chemical and UV damage. The company’s naturalbased Tegosoft AC is produced by a sustainable enzymatic process and can be used in facial and body care emulsions, gels and serums, natural cosmetic products, baby care, sprayable emulsions, antiperspirants/ deodorants and color cosmetics. Evonik’s Tego Care PBS 6, meanwhile, is a natural emulsifier based on renewable sources, offering stabilization properties in difficult systems. Each innovation, said Kumar, allows the

supplier and its customers to tell a more compelling sustainability story.

6. Opportunities in Male

Grooming, Tattoos and More

Men are adding new products to their personal care regimens, said Kumar, with a particular focus on the face, including anti-aging, beard care and sensitive skin solutions. Face masks are on the rise in the male category, though the segment leaders currently include facial cleansers and moisturizers, body moisturizers, sun protection lotions, body scrubs, facial scrubs and anti-aging serums. Kumar noted that there are opportunities for brands to offer whole body cleansers and shower shave gels, all-day protection, eye care and products for different skin types. Evonik has also introduced tattoo care innovations to address the roughly 60 million Europeans with tattoos, as well as the 20% of the U.S. population that has gotten “inked up.” The company has created concepts to protect and nurture the skin before and after tattooing, including the Recovery Soft Cream, which supports the restoration of the skin’s protective barrier, the Daily O/W Body Lotion SPF 15, which protects colors from UV-related fading, a Tattoo Sharpening Roller to boost luminosity of the skin and pigments, as well as Camouflage Makeup to conceal one’s tattoo when necessary.

Future Innovation Targets Looking ahead, Kumar noted that the beauty and personal care industry can capture emerging opportunities in: • Sunscreen for different skin tones • Skin care for various ethnicities • Products that counteract environmental stress factors • Dermocosmetics • Halal cosmetics • Beauty routines built for performance around the clock n

DE3 6 Trends Shaping Beauty and Personal Care Innovations Global Cosmetic Industry | September 2017

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BEAUTY TAKES TIME TO DEVELOP.

USUALLY.

INTRODUCES

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