Le Vieil Hôpital
Situated in the medieval part of the village, the ‘Old Hospital’ is an ancient threestory stone construction accessed by a huge wooden door set in a stone arch in the wall leading into an inner shady courtyard. The ancient wooden door is so big that one actually enters through door within a door. Its black hinges should creak, but they rarely have to open. There is not a straight line in the place. Ancient wooden beams hold everything up more in hope than in expectation. Creepers adorn its walls. Fig and almond trees grow in its courtyards and deep down its caves in the basement provide shelter from the baking hot sun of summer, and of course provide a storage area for wine should you be so inclined to do so.
From the inner courtyard on the ground floor one ascends stone steps into a central hallway in which the staircase ascends up three flights in four stages. These steps are a mix of well worn and cracked wood and hard red ceramic tiles. The wooden framed windows sit in the space allocated to them within the walls, but in such a way as to provide light between the frame and the wall, and also providing access to little flying things. This gap between the wall and frame would cause many an Englishman to reach for the filler in order to fend off winter. There is no need for such heroics in Provence.
Air and light are in abundant supply as is the cold and dark should you require it. The walls are covered with old paintings, large and small. The many nooks and crannies will have an ornament. There are ancient dusty books of the sort found in very old bookshops tucked away in dark alleys in University towns. There sits a Buddha, then a Catholic icon of Jesus and miniature musicians in black. This is not Ikea. This is Bohemia reflected back at you by
A DAY IN PROVINCE - BENNY GOODMAN
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