S KINCAR E FACTS
Defining Cosmeceuticals Does the new buzzword in skincare really mean anything? We’re sure you’ve heard the term ‘cosmeceutical’ thrown around in the skincare world, and while it sounds impressive, does anyone know what it actually means? “The line between cosmetic and cosmeceutical products is getting increasingly blurred, however in my opinion there is a clear difference,” explains aesthetic practitioner Dr Ana Mansouri. “Skincare products that are available on the high street (over-the-counter) are considered cosmetic, and products that must be prescribed by a healthcare professional are regarded as pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceutical products are the in-between, in other words, medical-grade skincare products that are available in a clinic setting and recommended under the guidance of a skincare practitioner.” Despite it being the latest buzzword in the skincare industry, the term is not actually legally recognised. Consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto explains, “The term ‘cosmeceutical’ is a marketing word simply to imply to the consumer that the product is somehow better than a product which is not branded in a similar manner. It can confuse the consumer into thinking that a skincare product has a similar strength to medicinal products, but the Advertising Standards Authority is quite clear that a product can’t be both a cosmetic and pharmaceutical. Both the Food and Drug Administration in the US and EU law say that cosmeceuticals fall under the same bracket as cosmetics.”
The efficacy of cosmeceuticals So, if the term ‘cosmeceuticals’ is considered to be marketing jargon, does this mean the products don’t actually work? Dr Mansouri notes that in her experience, cosmeceuticals are more effective than cosmetics at actually changing the way the skin behaves on a cellular level, due to their formulation and penetration abilities. She explains, “When a product contains active ingredients which are potent enough to penetrate through the upper layer of the skin, they also have a higher ability to improve your skin concerns. Generally speaking, cosmeceuticals tend to utilise higher percentages of active ingredients or use more effective delivery systems to ensure that they are more potent than their ‘over-the-counter’ alternatives. However, be mindful that stronger doesn’t always mean better, and they may cause reactions and irritation, hence the need for monitoring 8
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"Cosmeceuticals, being more effective and potent, tend to target more medically-related skin concerns such as acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, or melasma" Dr Ana Mansouri
