Beauty Uncovered - Spring Issue - 2021 by Beauty Uncovered

B RIN G IN G THE WOR LD O F AESTH E TI C M E DI CI N E TO YO U

Life Changing Surgery

One woman’s account of breast reduction

Male Skincare PHOTOGRAPHY: NIGEL BARKER

Creating a simple yet effective routine

The Queen of Tweakments Meet Alice Hart-Davis

Experiencing Lip Fillers Natural-looking results

be autyunc overed .c om

Face Life. Face First.

THE BEST SKIN OF YOUR LIFE It’s not a facial, it’s HydraFacial. We believe that beauty is a feeling, not a physical attribute, and the results from HydraFacial will leave you ready to face life face first. HydraFacial technology is unique, and so are the results it achieves. The treatment delivers instant results that you can see and feel and improves your skin health over time. Only HydraFacial uses a unique, patented Vortex-Fusion delivery system to exfoliate, extract and hydrate skin, and the spiral design delivers painless extractions. The spiral design of HydroPeel® Tips, used in conjunction with the HydraFacial proprietary vacuum technology and serums, creates a vortex effect to easily dislodge and remove impurities while simultaneously delivering hydrating skin solutions. HydraFacial is scored as a ‘99% Worth It’ rating by www.realself.com and on average, somewhere in the world, a HydraFacial treatment is now carried out every 10 seconds!

IS HYDRAFACIAL RIGHT FOR YOU? Yes. We don’t have a type. HydraFacial is for everyone. It’s suitable for all skin types and addresses all skincare needs. With our powerful range of personalisation treatment boosters, including such well-known brands as ZO, Circadia, Nassiff MD and now Murad - the possibilities for your skin regime are endless.

HYDRAFACIAL includes DETOX Begin with Lymphatic drainage that improves circulation of the lymph system and helps to eliminate toxins.

CLEANSE + PEEL Uncover a new layer of skin with gentle exfoliation and relaxing resurfacing.

EXTRACT + HYDRATE Remove debris from pores with painless suction. Nourish with intense moisturisers that quench skin.

FUSE + PROTECT Saturate the skin’s surface with antioxidants and peptides to maximise your glow.

REJUVENATION Finish with red and infrared LED light to reduce redness and further stimulate collagen, supporting the natural production of vitamin D.

Find out more and your nearest provider today at

www.hydrafacial.co.uk/ find-a-provider

HydraFacial addresses: Fine Lines & Wrinkles, Elasticity & Firmness, Even Tone & Vibrancy, Skin Texture, Brown Spots, Oily & Congested Skin and Enlarged Pores. HydraFacial delivers instant and long lasting results that you can see and feel. With ongoing treatments, you’ll notice intensely improved hydration, minimised dark spots and dramatically reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

To see the HydraFacial in action follow us

@hydrafacialuk

Welcome to your first copy of Beyond Beauty! Let me introduce myself… My name’s Chloé Gronow and I’ve worked in the aesthetics specialty for almost seven years. As a journalist and editor, I’ve had the privilege of producing content for the medics who carry out aesthetic treatments and cosmetic surgery; interviewing experts and being the first to hear about the latest products promising to enhance our appearance and sometimes even change our lives! While I can attest to the effectiveness of many products and procedures which have solid clinical evidence behind them, I know all too well that there’s a lot of rubbish out there and it can be hard to see through skilled marketing tactics and fancy packaging.

So, we decided to do something about it! Beyond Beauty was born to help YOU make safe and effective decisions when choosing an aesthetic treatment or cosmetic surgery procedure, while selecting the best person for the job. We also want to remove the stigma frequently associated with ‘having a little work done’. People can often be ashamed to admit when they have, which means we miss out on learning about the positive experiences and recommendations they could otherwise share. Beyond Beauty is now the starting point – we’ll share our experiences and knowledge, try to get others talking (a big thank you to everyone who’s shared their story in this issue!) and open this fantastic community to you. As well as subscribing to the magazine, you can meet the experts and trial treatments in real life at our fabulous event Beyond Beauty Live in 2022 – stay tuned for all the details! beyondbeautylive.com

Don’t miss our next three issues – subscribe now for just £15!

PHOTOGRAPHY: NIGEL BARKER

And if that’s not bad enough, the UK has a serious regulation problem whereby just about anyone can pick up a needle and inject your face with dermal filler, potentially leading to all sorts of problems including skin death (necrosis) and, in extremely rare but devastating cases, blindness. For my team and I, and the industry as a whole, this has been a constant, growing concern.

On the Cover 36

The Queen of Tweakments Introducing Alice Hart-Davis – the journalist who’s tried almost everything!

Treatments 8 20 29 61

Defining Dermal Fillers The lowdown on the benefits and risks Muscle Stimulation Tone your body with this new technology Turn Back the Clock on Eye Ageing How radiofrequency can address your concerns around the eyes Boost Your Collagen in 30 Minutes! A two-in-one treatment to tackle skin sagging and more

Contents

53 31

Top Products 12 40

Products of the Year Aesthetics Awards finalists worth knowing about in 2021 The Power of Antioxidants Advice on selecting the best formula for your skin

Real-life Stories 23 45 50 53 62 64

A Full Face Approach Boosting confidence with injectable treatments Digital Discussions One person’s experience of a virtual consultation Experiencing Lip Fillers Natural-looking results for a 40-year-old woman Beyond The Mirror: The Reality of BDD Advice on recognising body dysmorphic disorder in friends and family Life-changing Surgery How a breast reduction changed one woman’s life The Future of Aesthetics Tatler’s Health & Beauty Editor-at-Large shares her industry insight

Skincare 26 31 35 48

Did You Know There’s disinfectant that’s great for your skin? Caring for Male Skin Recommendations for a simple yet successful routine How To Apply Sunscreen Appropriately prevent sun damage and ageing Reviewing Results The BB team puts cleansers to the test

Every Issue 6 42 58 60 67

Ask the Experts A myth-buster masterclass How Will You Age? Eye anatomy and treatment approaches Recipe A breakfast to help you care for your hair Our Top Picks BB’s book, podcast and TV show recommendations Wordsearch Search and shop for leading cosmeceuticals

ASK THE EXPERTS

Myth-Buster Masterclass Three expert practitioners debunk some of the most common misconceptions in aesthetics

Dr Raj Acquilla, aesthetic practitioner, London & Cheshire IG: @rajacquilla

Jackie Partridge, aesthetic nurse prescriber, Edinburgh & Aberdeen IG: @dermalclinicltd

Mr Adrian Richards, consultant plastic surgeon, London, Buckinghamshire and Northampton IG: @mradrian.richards

“I need some Botox in my lips” Dr Acquilla says: No, you definitely don’t! To start, you should know that Botox is a brand name for botulinum toxin type A (toxin). Other brands available in the UK include Azzalure and Bocouture. All are proven to have minimal risks and offer excellent results; which one you have mainly depends on your practitioner’s preference. In simple terms, toxin works by stopping your nerves from letting your muscles contract. Without muscle contraction, wrinkles can’t form as easily, resulting in lovely smooth skin for you! So if you want to plump your lips, then toxin’s not going to help! That’s where dermal filler comes in. There are various forms of filler – some temporary and some permanent – with lots of different brands and types available. Filler is very versatile and can be used to add volume (to places like your lips and cheeks), contour features (such as your chin and jawline), while also having hydrating benefits, to give you that much-sought-after glow! You can read more about exactly how dermal filler works and where it’s used on p.8.

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"Check the practitioner is listed on a relevant medical register" Nurse Partridge

ASK THE EXPERTS

“I don’t need to wear sunscreen when it’s not sunny” Dr Acquilla says: Wrong! UV rays are present all year round and can penetrate clouds and even windows, so there’s no escaping the damage they can bring. While you may not burn, the sun’s rays can still cause ageing, contribute to hyperpigmentation and could increase your risk of skin cancer. Check out p.35 for Beyond Beauty’s top tips on choosing and applying sunscreen!

“I won’t be able to breastfeed if I have implants” Mr Richards says: It depends. If the incisions to insert the implants were made underneath your breasts or near your armpits, then you’ll probably be able to. On the other hand, if the cuts are around the areola (area around the nipple) then it’s possible that some of your milk ducts and nerves may have been cut and breastfeeding won’t work. Speak to your surgeon to decide what surgical approach might be best for you!

“My beautician can do my filler”

“Everyone will know if I’ve had fillers or toxin treatment”

Nurse Partridge says:

True – in the UK, they could do. But if that dermal filler is accidentally injected into an artery and your skin starts to die, does your beautician or non-medic have the medical qualifications to manage it safely? While injectable treatments are usually very safe, there are risks that need to be prevented and managed if the worst happens.

Not necessarily, especially if done correctly! Thousands of filler and toxin procedures take place every day, meaning there’s a high chance a number of your friends, family and colleagues have had a little ‘tweakment’ – but do you know who? Unfortunately many people still feel they aren’t able to talk openly about the treatments they have had. Yet, most of us just want to look and feel a little better for our age and that’s easily achievable without being noticeable, providing you go to an ethical and safe practitioner. Turn to Beyond Beauty’s case studies on p.23, p.45 and p.50 to see some gorgeous natural results!

Your injector also needs to make sure you don’t have any medical reasons as to why you might not be suitable for treatment. Medical professionals with certain qualifications are able to prescribe medicines that can dissolve dermal fillers if needed. They are also accountable to regulatory bodies that can investigate and strike them off medical registers if they’ve acted unethically or unsafely. Check the practitioner is listed on a relevant medical register before booking a treatment.

HAVE YOU GOT A QUESTION FOR THE EXPERTS?

Drop us an email via hello@beyondbeautylive.com or DM us on Instagram @beyondbeauty_mag

INTERVIEW: CHLOÉ GRONOW

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FILL E R FACTS

Defining Dermal Fillers Get the lowdown from the experts on what dermal fillers are and how they can help you rejuvenate and beautify your face You may not have even heard of dermal fillers a few years ago. When reality-TV star Kylie Jenner opened up about getting lip fillers in 2015, it led to a surge of enquiries from the public wanting to learn more about how they might benefit from the treatment. The popularity of dermal fillers has since skyrocketed worldwide, with social media, celebrity influence and more accessibility to treatment for the general population driving this trend. But what actually are dermal fillers, and should you consider getting them? We spoke to the experts, who have been injecting filler ever since it came to the market more than 25 years ago!

What are dermal fillers? In simple terms, nurse prescriber Sharon Bennett explains that dermal fillers are gel implants, which can be injected into the skin by a medical professional using a needle. “They can be used in many different ways such as to lift and smooth lines and wrinkles, replace volume loss as a result of ageing, to shape the skin and enhance certain areas, to hydrate the face, or even to help scarring,” she explains. Dermal fillers fall into two groups – temporary and semi-permanent – and consultant plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgeon Mr Dalvi Humzah says that temporary fillers are most popular because they contain the ingredient hyaluronic acid (or HA) which can be removed more easily compared to semi-permanent fillers. “Many people describe dermal fillers as ‘fake’ but, actually, most contain HA, which is a fluid that naturally occurs in the human body between our cells and can even be found in areas like our bone joints. The HA in dermal fillers is slightly different to the HA found in our bodies as it is synthetically made and modified in the laboratory so that it can last longer after it has been put in,” he says. Depending on how the HA is modified, it can last anywhere between 3-18 months once injected, Mr Humzah adds. 8

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Mr Dalvi Humzah,

Sharon Bennett,

consultant plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgeon, London, Halesowen, Gloucester & Wolverhampton

aesthetic nurse prescriber, Harrogate IG: @sharonbennettskin

IG: @pdsurgery

How can dermal fillers benefit you? No one necessarily needs dermal fillers, nurse Bennett emphasises, but women and men of all ages and ethnicities may benefit from them in some way. She says, “Dermal fillers are most commonly used to treat the signs of ageing and can improve skin quality and fight lines, which usually creep in by your late 20s or early 30s. They can also restore volume loss, which is something you might start to see in your 30s or 40s. Dermal fillers are good for preventative ageing or ‘prejuvenation’ and can be used to spark collagen synthesis, allowing skin to remain smooth.” But, of course, it’s not just those showing signs of ageing who may benefit from the treatment, nurse Bennett says. “The intent for younger people

F I LLER FACTS

is usually to enhance, refine, create balance, and improve light reflection rather than restore skin quality or fight lines. The most popular areas for younger patients include the lips and cheeks. Nose straightening is also very popular for those who might not want to undergo cosmetic surgery and placing filler in the chin can help those who have a recessed lower face,” she explains. Mr Humzah emphasises that before you get fillers, you must have a full consultation with an appropriatelytrained practitioner. “The consultation should include questions about your medical history, your cosmetic concerns, and all the different types of treatments that might benefit you, as well as the risks,” he says, adding, “Then your practitioner will tell you if dermal fillers are the best treatment for you.” Mr Humzah notes that you should also have a ‘cooling-off’ period, which allows you time to really think about having the treatment before you go ahead. Of course, medical practitioners will also carefully consider the mental wellbeing of a person prior to a procedure to ensure they are suitable for treatment.

Will you look fake?

"If you choose your practitioner well, you can get amazing results that look perfectly natural" Nurse Sharon Bennett

We have all seen hideous pictures of the ‘trout pout’ or ‘pillow face’, so it’s no wonder that people are afraid of fake results. Nurse Bennett and Mr Humzah say that fake and overexaggerated results are one of the biggest fears people have of getting dermal fillers. “The fact is, there are a lot of people who have had bad work done, which has led to this huge misconception that dermal fillers make people look fake,” nurse Bennett says. “But although this can and does happen, if you choose your practitioner well, you can get amazing results that will look perfectly natural. People won’t even know you have had anything done – they will think you look good and refreshed but won’t be able to tell why.” Turn to p.23, p.45 and p.50 to see some examples of subtle, natural dermal filler results! beyondbeautylive.com

FILL E R FACTS

What dermal filler is best for you? There are more than 60 dermal fillers available in the UK and some brands you might have heard of include Aliaxin, Belotero, Juvéderm, Restylane, Saypha, Stylage, Teosyal, Yviore; the list goes on. But actually, nurse Bennett and Mr Humzah say that dermal fillers aren’t like choosing a skincare or foundation brand. “It’s really the practitioner who should make the choice as to what filler is best for you,” Mr Humzah explains. Nurse Bennett adds, “This is because every dermal filler will have slight variations and we practitioners will be highly trained in using selected products. We usually choose one or two brands that we have assessed carefully for safety and efficacy.” The practitioner will choose the best filler for your individual concerns, meaning that you might be injected with a different product to your friends. Mr Humzah says that it’s important to remember what dermal filler you have had, in case you have any delayed complications, and your practitioner should always give you a card with this information after your treatment.

Are there any risks to getting dermal fillers? Dermal fillers can cause minor side effects such as bruising, pain and swelling immediately after treatment or lumps, bumps and infections days or months later. Mr Humzah says, “It’s important that your practitioner goes through the risks with you in your consultation, and that you let them know as soon as possible if you notice any abnormalities.” The most dangerous risk is a vascular occlusion, which is when the blood in your vessel becomes blocked by the dermal filler, potentially leading your cells to die. In extremely rare circumstances, it can even result in blindness. However, nurse Bennett and Mr Humzah reassure that properly-trained medical practitioners will be able to help you weigh up and understand the pros and cons of getting treatment, inject in the safest possible way and, in the event that something does happen, they will be best equipped to manage the situation.

“It’s important that your practitioner goes through the risks with you in your consultation” Mr Dalvi Humzah

How much should your fillers cost? This depends greatly on the clinic’s location, the filler brand, amount of product used, and the training, experience and qualifications of the practitioner. In nurse Bennett’s practice, prices start at £200 and in Mr Humzah’s practice, fillers cost upwards of £300. Mr Humzah and nurse Bennett say that it’s important to choose a medical practitioner who is insured and regulated, such as through the General Medical Council, Nursing and Midwifery Council and General Dental Council, and someone who can demonstrate to you that they are thoroughly trained and experienced in injecting dermal fillers. They explain that if the price seems too good to be true, it’s probably an indicator that the practitioner is cutting corners and is unlikely to be the best person to deliver great results and a safe treatment.

WORDS: SHANNON KILGARIFF

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PUTTING THE CARE IN SKINCARE USE YOUR EXCLUSIVE CODE BEYOND6 AT CHECKOUT FOR 6% OFF One of the UK’s leading online retailers of clinically-proven and cosmeceutical skincare products. Shop brands including SkinCeuticals, Environ, Image Skincare, Mesoestetic and many more! Sign up to our mailing list for access to exclusive offers. Why shop with Face the Future: • Expert skincare advice

• Free delivery available

• Free sample with every order

• Buy now pay later options

• Free gift with purchase

• Personalised online skin test

Online Shop: facethefuture.co.uk Tel: 0113 282 7744

AWA RDS FI N A L I STS

PRODUCTS OF THE YEAR Every year the team behind Beyond Beauty hosts the annual Aesthetics Awards, which commemorates the best of the best in the medical aesthetic specialty. See what products and treatments caught the eye of the judges that you must ask your practitioner about in 2021!

Newest and most innovative treatments

Custom D.O.S.E

Emepelle

Juvéderm VOLUX

Ever thought about getting skincare that is personalised to tackle your individual skin concerns? The SkinCeuticals Custom D.O.S.E professional service features bespoke corrective serums to target skin ageing and improve fine lines, wrinkles and discolouration.

Suffering from collagen loss and skin ageing due to the menopause? Emepelle is a skincare range that uses unique technology, is designed to target skin that is deficient in oestrogen and improve your hydration, firmness and luminosity.

To improve the definition of your jawline and chin, consider seeing a practitioner who offers treatment with Juvéderm VOLUX. Clinical studies suggest it is an effective HA filler for increasing chin projection and jaw volume, with results lasting 18-24 months.

Lasergen

Morpheus8

If you’ve had laser treatment for your acne scarring or hyperpigmentation, Lasergen can help your skin’s recovery. By applying the cream after your in-clinic treatment, it aims to increase the body’s natural production of hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin, improving skin protection and moisturisation.

Combining the benefits of two treatments in one, the Morpheus8 can help with a range of aesthetic concerns. It uses small microneedles that deliver radiofrequency energy to the skin, helping to improve acne scars, skin texture, enlarged pores, stretch marks, excessive sweating, and more!

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Best skincare Dr Levy Switzerland

Heliocare 360°

Medik8

PCA Skin C&E Advanced

The Dr Levy Switzerland skincare range was created by one of Switzerland’s top aesthetic dermatologists Dr Phillip Levy. It has been designed to suit all skin types, tones, and genders to refresh and revive your own skin’s regeneration system.

Protecting skin from the sun is important all year round to help prevent ageing. Heliocare 360° provides protection against damage caused by UVA and UVB. It also contains DNA repair enzymes and antioxidants to boost skin health, and provides foundation coverage.

Daily use of vitamin C + SPF + vitamin A at night as part of the Medik8 CSA Range provides users with antioxidant protection, sun protection and improves signs of ageing. You can make your own CSA kit or have one designed for you. The products are 100% vegan.

Using a mixture of high levels of vitamins C and E, the PCA Skin C&E Advanced range provides protection from free radical damage, and repairs signs of photodamage. It is best suited to normal skin types, and results can be seen in two weeks, according to PCA Skin.

Profhilo Haenkenium

SkinCeuticals Antioxidants

skinbetter science

ZO Skin Health

Suffering from sensitive or stressed skin? From the makers of the popular injectable hyaluronic acid Profhilo, comes Profhilo Haenkenium. This product provides a protective barrier and prevents irritation, as well improving visible signs of ageing.

To prevent premature ageing and protect your skin from free radicals and pollution, try out the SkinCeuticals Antioxidant range! There are four antioxidants, each designed for different skin indications, including those who are acne-prone, redness-prone, oily or dry. Read more on p.40.

The skinbetter science range is suitable for a variety of skin types and indications! By using a combination of two or three of these products, you can see improvements in skin tone, texture, lines, and wrinkles in as early as four weeks! Products are fragrance and paraben free.

ZO Skin Health offers different protocols for treating various skin conditions such as pigmentation disorders, acne, rosacea, ageing and inflammation. ZO Skin Health’s philosophy is to create and maintain healthy skin for life – for all patients – and is guided by dermatologist Dr Zein Obagi.

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PUTTING THE CARE IN SKINCARE Our aim is to make your skin the best it can be. • FREE skin consultations • Established aesthetic skin clinic • Professional, registered & regulated clinic

Before

• Private, discreet location with free parking • Experts in a wide range of skin concerns • Laser hair & tattoo removal specialists • Personalised & bespoke service After Visit the clinic website at facethefutureclinic.co.uk Call to book your free consultation 0113 282 7744 Find us at Face the Future 141 Newmarket Lane, Wakefield, West Yorkshire, WF3 4BY

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Best treatments using in-clinic devices BYONIK pulse triggered laser

Dermalux Flex MD

ENDYMED 3DEEP Skin Science

For a more youthful appearance and improved skin texture and complexion, the BYONIK laser uses non-thermal wavelengths to help skin healing, repair and rejuvenation. You will need to commit to regular sessions for up to eight weeks for optimal results.

The Dermalux Flex MD is an LED device that can be used at home or in clinic for acne, wound healing, psoriasis and musculoskeletal pain, as well as for inflammatory conditions such as rosacea, eczema and dermatitis. Depending on your concern, you can expect to undergo six to 12 treatments.

Looking for a device to target skin ageing concerns on the face and body? ENDYMED is an advanced radiofrequency treatment that can tighten and resurface the skin. It’s suitable for both men and women and for all skin types and tones. Six treatments are necessary for optimal results.

Emerald Laser

EMsculpt

ONDA Coolwaves

The Emerald Laser is a non-thermal lowlevel-laser for body sculpting, weight loss, pre-obesity and diabetes management. It’s the only laser in the world that has been given market clearance by the US Food and Drug Administration for overall body circumference reduction in patients with small pockets of fat and a BMI of up to 40. Around six sessions are usually recommended.

The first muscle-stimulating technology of its kind, EMsculpt simultaneously builds muscle and burns fat, something sit-ups alone could never accomplish! During each 30-minute session the muscle groups in the treatment area experience approximately 20,000 contractions. For optimal results you will need four separate treatments. Read more about muscle stimulation on p.20.

ONDA Coolwaves is a body contouring, fat reduction and cellulite treatment all in one. Coolwaves are a specifically selected frequency of microwave which bypass the uppermost layers of skin tissue. This helps deliver more energy directly to the subcutaneous fat cells, increasing the ability to achieve fat cell death. Results can be seen in four sessions.

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pure HA

Hyaluronic acid without distraction What if you could treat your skin with a unique essence containing all that your skin needs to stay hydrated and glowing? Pure HA is a highly concentrated liquid skin mask, containing 1.8% of hyaluronic acid to smooth, moisturize and revitalize your skin while boosting its natural hydration. Usually used in medical and aesthetic practices worldwide, you can now treat your skin with the same high quality of pharma grade hyaluronic acid at home. Available in exclusive clinics and soon via www.cromaskincareshop.com Made by the experts of hyaluronic acid. www.croma.at | #pureHA

SADB2B0320

pharma grade skincare

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PicoSure

Soprano Titanium

StarWalker

Do you have a tattoo that you’re desperate to get rid of? PicoSure can remove tattoos for all skin colours. It can also be used for skin revitalisation and address pigmentation, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles. In some cases, a black ink tattoo can be removed within three sessions. There have been more than 500,000 patients treated worldwide.

Sick of those pesky hairs that grow back so quickly after shaving? Try a permanent hair reduction device which is fast, efficient and comfortable. Soprano Titanium can treat a variety of skin types, hair colours and hair follicle depths! Depending on your skin and hair type, results are typically seen following six to eight treatment sessions.

If you’re looking to get rid of benign pigmented lesions, ask your aesthetic practitioner about StarWalker. It can also be used for tattoo removal, skin rejuvenation, vascular lesion removal, hair removal, acne treatment and more. You will need to repeat sessions after one to three months.

TESLA Former

Thermage FLX

truSculpt Flex

Looking to increase your muscle mass or core strength? The TESLA Former muscle stimulation device can be used for muscle and body sculpting, including on the arms, glutes, abs, back and thighs, as well as pelvic floor problems and physical rehabilitation. The new CORETherapy treatment targets three different muscle groups during a single 30-minute session. Four to eight sessions are recommended.

This radiofrequency skin tightening treatment can smooth, tighten and contour all skin types on the face and body for an overall natural, younger-looking appearance. It’s also the only radiofrequency device that is approved by the US Food and Drug Administration to treat the eye area. Thermage FLX requires just one treatment, with results taking several months to reach their peak. Read more on p.29.

Build, sculpt and define your abdomen, buttocks and thighs by having a truSculpt Flex muscle stimulation treatment! During a 45-minute session, a fit adult could perform the equivalent of up to 54,000 crunches, with up to eight areas treated. Four treatments sessions are recommended overall and results are generally visible eight to 12 weeks after the last session. Read more on p.20.

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Best products injected by medical professionals Sunekos 200

APTOS Threads

Aliaxin

Sunekos 200 is an injectable product made up of amino acids and hyaluronic acid. It is used to stimulate collagen and elastin, restoring a youthful skin look for the face or neck. Four treatments of Sunekos 200 spaced 7-10 days apart twice a year are usually recommended.

APTOS Threads offer an effective alternative to surgery and can be used to give a non-invasive lift to your face, brows, neck and even your breasts! Results are evident immediately after the procedure and can last from one to five years depending on the thread composition.

Restore skin volume, redefine facial contours and fill out your wrinkles by having treatment with Aliaxin! This dermal filler product range contains a combination of molecular weights of hyaluronic acid to obtain different biological and mechanical effects, which are said to last between six and 12 months.

Teosyal RHA

Juvéderm VOLUX

Desirial Plus

Teosyal RHA is a hyaluronic acid dermal filler that is designed to compensate volume lost during the ageing process and adapt to our own facial dynamics for natural results. The RHA range has four different products, each designed to target different indications. The results last between nine and 12 months.

Mentioned on the previous page, Juvéderm VOLUX is a finalist for Injectable Product of the Year as well as Product Innovation of the Year. Clinical studies suggest it is an effective hyaluronic acid filler for increasing chin projection and jaw volume, with results lasting 18-24 months.

Are you a woman with ageing concerns in the intimate area? Desirial Plus is a hyaluronic acid filler that helps address vaginal laxity and tissue loss. The process should take no more than 20 minutes to complete and the effects could last between six and 12 months.

WORDS: HOLLY CARVER

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BO DY TREATM EN T

etting a toned and sculpted body used to only come as a result of hard work in the gym and following a strict diet, but now there exists technology which can improve your body shape after only a few short sessions in an aesthetic clinic. Endorsed by celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Drew Barrymore, are muscle-stimulating treatments really worth the hype?

How do they work? Muscle-stimulating technologies are devices that promise to increase muscle mass and sometimes reduce fat. While some forms of this technology have previously been used at-home in conjunction with strength-training workouts attached to your body while you exercise, all you need to do now is lie on a treatment bed for 30-60 minutes and let the machine do the work. Devices can also be used to help weak muscles, reduce swelling, relieve pain and help heal wounds, often being used in physiotherapy. Current devices on the market commonly use electrical muscle stimulation (EMS) and high intensity focused electromagnetic field (HIFEM). An EMS treatment uses electric impulses to contract the muscle, causing muscle fibres to undergo microscopic tears, much like a typical strengthening workout. The body will attempt to repair this damage, leading to increased muscle size and strength. A HIFEM treatment works in a similar way but uses a magnetic field to produce an electric current in the muscle.

MUSCLE STIMULATION: WHAT'S THE HYPE? 20

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Devices can cause up to tens of thousands of contractions in around an hour – try doing that at home! Because the procedure puts your body under conditions that could not be achieved through normal ab workouts, squats or exercises, results are achieved faster. Muscle-stimulating devices can be used on areas such as your abdominals, buttocks, arms, and legs.

What are the results? Muscle mass has been shown to increase anywhere between 16-30%. Research has shown that as well as muscle improvement, some devices can also reduce fat by up to 19% as a result of these treatments. There is little-to-no downtime following the procedure meaning you can walk straight

BO DY TREATM EN T

out of an aesthetic clinic and carry on with your usual lifestyle routine. However, you may experience minor soreness, so it is recommended not to perform any immediate exercise on the targeted muscle group. You do need more than one treatment for it to be effective, and you will have to go back anywhere between four and eight times for a repeat procedure, depending on which machine you choose. It’s important to note that a muscle-stimulating procedure should be undergone alongside a healthy lifestyle, rather than acting as a substitute. The treatment may improve your body tone, but in order to maintain your physique following the treatment and to continue to optimise these results, you need to remain mindful of your diet and exercise.

We know it sounds a bit too good to be true, but they say a picture is worth a thousand words! Take a look at some of the current devices available in UK clinics, along with their results.

Ask the professional… If you’re interested in having a muscle-stimulating treatment, aesthetic practitioner Dr Nestor Demosthenous, owner of Dr Nestor’s Medical Cosmetic Centre in Edinburgh, shares some advice! Find him on Instagram via @dr_nestor_d How do I know where to go? I believe it is very important to only have this treatment performed by a reputable aesthetic clinic. The clinic will have researched the various devices and will only use a CE and/ or FDA-approved muscle-stimulation device, which means that the device is safe for use.

CM Slim Treatment time: 30 minutes No. of treatments recommended: 4-6

What is it like to experience a treatment? Because these devices try to emulate an intense strength and muscle-building gym session, the treatment will feel a little uncomfortable but not painful or unbearable. Your practitioner should discuss all of this with you, but there’s no need to be worried.

EmSculpt Treatment time: 30 minutes No. of treatments recommended: 4

What are the other benefits? While muscle-stimulating procedures can make you look and feel better in yourself, that’s not all they’re good for! In my clinic I’ve used them to help a variety of people for different reasons.

StimSure Treatment time: 20-30 minutes No. of treatments recommended: 6-8

TESLAformer Treatment time: 30 minutes No. of treatments recommended: 4-8

On a personal note, following a knee injury, I lost muscle mass in my left leg and managed to build it back (from 50cm circumference of left leg to 54cm) using the device in my clinic. That’s why I’m so passionate about this sort of treatment – I know first-hand the positive impact it can have. Always speak to an experienced practitioner and find out what’s best for you. Dr Demosthenous offers treatment with truSculpt Flex.

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WORDS: HOLLY CARVER

truSculpt Flex Treatment time: 45 minutes No. of treatments recommended: 4

For example, we have treated: • Religious gym goers, who find they can push themselves further • Patients who haven’t been able to exercise due to trauma and have suffered some muscle decline • Patients with lower back problems that have been helped thanks to strengthening their core muscles • Older patients who can’t push themselves as much as they did before • Women with abdominal tears and damage from childbirth

YOUR LOOK

*Juvéderm® offers a range of facial fillers to answer a variety of needs, each of which is administered at a different dermal layer. We believe in natural-looking results that both enhance what you like, whilst helping change what you don’t. Juvéderm® offers a range of products, designed for specific areas of the face at the optimum dermal level, so your clinician can assist you with creating a tailored plan. Whether that is focusing on a single area or creating a bespoke multi-area treatment, Juvéderm® has been developed to help suit your individual needs.

To book a consultation and find out if Juvéderm® is right for you, visit juvederm.co.uk

Produced and Funded by Juvéderm®. UK-JUV-2150066 March 2021 ©2021 Allergan. All rights reserved. Model treated with Juvéderm®. Individual patient results may vary. Reporting of side effects. If you get any side effects, talk to your doctor or healthcare professional. You can also report side effects via the Yellow Card Scheme at https://yellowcard.mhra.gov.uk

REAL-LIFE STORY

A Full Face Approach

The story of 24-year-old Bridie, who, after experiencing an animal attack, sought to improve her confidence through non-surgical injectables

Before After fter an animal attack as a child, 24-year-old Bridie was left with a noticeable bump on her nose, leaving her feeling extremely selfconscious about her appearance. “I just hated it,” she says, “I really hated the way my face and profile looked, and I didn’t like having pictures taken. I had very negative memories associated with my nose and seeing it in pictures was as if I was staring at the incident in the face constantly.” Bridie had always wanted a surgical nose job (known as a rhinoplasty procedure) but when she realised her nose could be improved through non-surgical means she thought she would give it a try. “At the time I was 21. My mum has had cosmetic injectable procedures and was very open about it, so I knew the basics about the industry. I started to learn a bit more and I saw on Instagram that you could improve the shape of your nose with dermal fillers. As somebody who was always worried about surgery, it struck me that a non-surgical procedure might be a good option – I thought it seemed a lot easier, less Before and after frontal view. Results show improvements to the dark under-eye circles and lip symmetry. scary and less expensive. The other draw factor was, if I didn’t like it, the filler would eventually go away as it isn’t permanent and, if I did like it, I thought it could be a good option to try before considering surgery.” After looking online and doing a little research, Bridie came across PHI Clinic’s Instagram account and booked an appointment with aesthetic practitioner and medical director Dr Tapan Patel. She now reflects on her experience and how it’s changed her life.

Expressing cosmetic concerns In Bridie’s consultation, Dr Patel asked her why she had come to see him, what her main concerns were, and her intentions for treatment. “I firstly told him about the shape of my nose, which was my main concern. Then I detailed other areas of my appearance that made me hate being photographed without makeup on. I felt like I looked tired all the time, with dark circles under my eyes. I also told him that I felt my lips were quite wonky and asymmetrical, so I wanted to know if they could be evened out. I didn’t want anything too bold, big or extravagant; I just wanted little tweaks. Dr Patel was

“It might sound silly to some people, but this was genuinely life changing” beyondbeautylive.com

REAL-LIFE STORY

Before

really understanding and kind, and I didn’t feel stupid or judged when telling him about my concerns; he was very reassuring.” After assessing Bridie’s face, Dr Patel determined that she was a good candidate for hyaluronic acid dermal filler treatment. He said that Bridie’s nose could be straightened by injecting dermal filler above and below the dorsal hump, which is the typical bump or lump commonly seen on the nose in between the eyes. Dr Patel also said he could address her tired eyes by injecting filler into her tear troughs (the area just below the eye where dark circles usually appear). In addition, he explained that filler could help improve the symmetry of the lips, without making them look big and unnatural. Bridie asked Dr Patel if there were any other areas of her face that might benefit from treatment to add to the overall result. Dr Patel, who always takes a ‘full face’ approach to dermal filler treatment rather than injecting one area, recommended that the treatment plan could include a small injection of dermal filler into the chin, which is a common technique many practitioners use to improve a patient’s profile. “He said that as my chin squared off at the bottom, this approach would make my face appear rounder, and improve the impact of the other injected areas.” After the consultation, Bridie was advised to go home and think about the treatment plan. “I liked that Dr Patel didn’t recommend a sameday treatment because it was really helpful to properly consider it.” This also allowed Bridie to think about the potential complications and side effects that can occur following filler treatment. “Dr Patel outlined the possible complications to me and the thought of vascular occlusion – when your blood vessels get blocked – was a bit terrifying. But Dr Patel explained it to me really well and I felt safe and trusted that if anything did go wrong, I was in the right hands. For me, the positives of the treatment completely outweighed the negatives, and I was eager to go ahead.”

Treating the concerns When Bridie came back to the clinic for her treatment, Dr Patel detailed the plan again, after which Bridie signed a consent form to be treated. “Dr Patel then began and talked

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After

Before and after side view. Results show a more balanced profile, with improvements in nose shape and contour, lip symmetry, chin projection and the under-eye area.

about what he was going to do just before he did it, which was really reassuring,” says Bridie, explaining, “He started with my nose, and said he was going to pinch the bridge and that I would feel a sharp scratch as he inserted the needle. Once he injected my nose, he moved on to treat my dark circles, chin and lips.”

“None of the injections hurt at all and that was one of the things I was scared about – I was afraid that I would feel like a pin cushion!”

Bridie said the treatment ‘flew’ and was over within about 30 minutes. “None of the injections hurt at all and that was one of the things I was quite scared about – I was afraid that I would feel like a pin cushion! But it was completely fine. Dr Patel iced the areas before he injected, which really helped.”

REAL-LIFE STORY

After the treatment, Bridie was given aftercare instructions to prevent complications such as infection. “I was told to not wear makeup for 12 hours and avoid touching the areas for a few days, as well as not to wear heavy sunglasses or drink excessive alcohol.”

“When Dr Patel held the mirror up and I saw the result, I actually cried a little bit!”

Revolutionary results Almost three years after her treatment, Bridie laughs and says, “When Dr Patel held the mirror up and I saw the result, I actually cried a little bit! What I loved is that you could see the results straight away. It might sound silly to some people, but this was genuinely life changing. You spend your whole life being concerned about one thing on your face, like your nose, and then all of a sudden, the issue isn’t there anymore! For me this improvement was such a big thing. The confidence boost I had was just insane and it was a really positive experience for me.” Bridie has since been back to maintain her results, as hyaluronic acid dermal fillers are not permanent. “I’ve only needed to go in for one top-up for my lips and tear troughs, as my nose still looks incredible. I have a slight bump that has come back but it’s no way near as noticeable as it was.” Bridie adds that after her experience, she will probably stick with the dermal fillers instead of having surgery on her nose.

An ambassador for treatments

As someone who sought dermal filler treatment at the young age of 21, Bridie says she has no regrets having the procedure, but does acknowledge that some people can be judgemental about it. “I completely understand that some people might believe I was too young. Some think it’s a bit extreme and a lot of my friends at the time didn’t really get it. My grandmother thought it was really extreme too, and then I showed her my before and after pictures and she said, ‘fair enough’!” Because Bridie’s mum has never been shy about the cosmetic treatments she has had, it’s allowed her to be open about it too. “In my opinion, when you have hated something about yourself, like your nose, for so long, me waiting until I was 21 to do something about it was actually stranger than having dermal fillers at 21! When people judge others for getting fillers and say things like ‘fillers look horrible’, I just tell them it’s because you only see the bad work that’s done – not many people are vocal about how great their results are and that they’re so good no one knows they’ve had treatment! After my experience, I’m a massive advocate of injectable aesthetic treatment now!” WORDS: SHANNON KILGARIFF

Practitioner perspective

Dr Tapan Patel, aesthetic practitioner, London IG: @phiclinic

To get the best results using dermal fillers, a full-face approach needs to be taken. Different parts of the face are not separate – the way the chin presents will directly impact the way the lip appears for example – and it’s all interrelated. This is especially evident when you start looking at people in their profile (side) view. For Bridie, treating the nose is one thing, but you can really enhance the effect and decrease the dominance of the nose by also treating areas such as the lips, chin and cheeks. I was really happy with the results and, most importantly, she was happy. For younger patients like Bridie, it’s important to acknowledge that she did not feel social pressures to have this treatment. Her treatment was more of a correction, rather than an antiageing treatment, which has really boosted her confidence. In terms of pricing, this varies depending on the clinic and product used. This particular treatment involved injecting Juvéderm Voluma in the nose and in the chin, and Juvéderm Volbella in the tear trough and in the lip. In my clinic, this treatment would be around £1,800.

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DID YO U KNOW ?

There's Disinfectant for Your Face! Find out how hypochlorous acid can help you…

Prior to having any aesthetic procedure that breaks the surface of the skin, it’s of course essential that your practitioner disinfects the area to minimise the risk of infection. But did you know, some of the products they use can also really benefit your general skincare routine and help tackle skin conditions such as acne and rosacea? Excitement has been growing around an ingredient called hypochlorous acid (HOCI). While the disinfectant powers of the acid have been known and used for a long time, it’s only really been hyped up in the aesthetics world fairly recently.

spots can appear swollen and red, which is often distressing for many sufferers. “In my experience, HOCI will soothe the skin and speed up healing, calming down the acne’s angry appearance,” says Dr Shotter. She points out that the same principle applies for rosacea, which is characterised as redness across the nose, cheeks, forehead and chin. Sometimes sufferers can experience a burning or stinging feeling when using water or skincare products on the affected areas, so the soothing sensation of HOCI can really help.

ADDING HYPOCHLOROUS ACID TO YOUR ROUTINE HOW HYPOCHLOROUS ACID WORKS Used for years in the ear-piercing world, aesthetic practitioner Dr Sophie Shotter explains that HOCI is a part of your body’s natural response to infection. “It’s basically a powerful antimicrobial agent that helps control the bacteria levels or microorganisms on the skin,” she says, adding, “We know it isn’t toxic Dr Sophie Shotter, to human skin, which means it’s great to use aesthetic practitioner, before and after an aesthetic treatment to keep Kent & London IG: @drsophieshotter the area clean, reducing the chance of infection.” The acid is produced by the white blood cells in the body to combat infection and can kill bacteria, viruses, fungi and spores. To create the products that are used, Dr Shotter explains that HOCI is made from a solution of chlorine and water, which forms sodium chloride. “Special chemical processes then convert this to HOCI,” she says. Dr Shotter adds that HOCI is significantly more effective than other skin disinfection methods. “The gold standard was previously chlorhexidine, which kills around 92% of bacteria in 30 seconds. Alcohol is much less effective than this,” she notes, highlighting, “The HOCI product I use kills more than 99.9% of bacteria, viruses, fungi and spores in 15 seconds. It’s also shown to be non-toxic and non-irritant to human skin cells.” Amazingly, studies have found that it can help to inactivate a number of viruses, including coronaviruses, in less than one minute! One study in particular said, ‘It is easy to use, is inexpensive, has a good safety profile, and can be used to disinfect large areas quickly and with a broad range of bactericidal and virucidal effects’.

BENEFITS TO YOUR SKIN As well as reducing the chance of infection following injectable treatment, studies indicate that HOCI can help heal small wounds, as well as treat mild acne, dermatitis, diabetic foot ulcers and scars. Dr Shotter has found it beneficial for rosacea patients too. Focusing specifically on two of the most common skincare complaints – acne and rosacea – Dr Shotter details how HOCI can help. “Acne can be fungal and bacterial,” says Dr Shotter, explaining, “The sebum in your clogged pores can be a breeding ground for bacteria, furthering the spread of acne.” By using HOCI, Dr Shotter says you’ll be helping to regulate the bacteria levels in your skin, thus reducing the chance of exasperating the acne. Another big component of acne is that it’s inflammatory, meaning 26

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“The easiest way to incorporate HOCI into your skincare routine is to use it as you would a toner after you have cleansed twice a day,” advises Dr Shotter. There are a few brands of HOCI available, and they will usually either come in a spray bottle, allowing you to spritz the product directly onto your face, or can be applied with a cotton pad. Dr Shotter also recommends using HOCI straight after a workout. “Sweat can be a breeding ground for all sorts of bacteria, so it’s worth keeping a bottle of HOCI in your gym bag and giving your skin a good wipe down afterwards. Of course, when you get home you should still wash your face properly with a good quality cleanser,” she says.

EXPECTED RESULTS Studies have found successful results when used to treat acne, with one noting good to excellent clinical improvement in 39 patients presenting with 10-50 inflammatory acne lesions. In her experience, Dr Shotter has found that improvement in the appearance of acne and rosacea can be fairly quick. “With skincare, I always say don’t judge results until you’ve finished two cycles of a product,” she says, noting, “Most products will last two to three months, but I have seen a difference in some people’s skin after just a month!”

“In my experience, HOCI will soothe the skin and speed up healing, calming down the acne’s angry appearance” Dr Sophie Shotter

DID YO U KNOW ?

Of course, results will often depend on the severity of the skin condition to start with, and some people will need additional, targeted treatment to see real improvement. Dr Shotter notes, “For example, if someone has really bad acne then we may also prescribe antibiotics or advise the use of vitamin A and/or salicylic acid.” However, she points out, while some ingredients such as salicylic acid can dry the skin out, HOCI doesn’t have such an impact, so can be regarded as an added benefit without any side effects. You may ask, can you overuse HOCI? Dr Shotter says she’s not aware of any studies that have indicated this, but in principal you could. “Using it too much could decrease the biomass of the microbiome, weakening our skin’s immune defences,” she explains. The only other downside, laughs Dr Shotter, is HOCI can smell a bit like a swimming pool! It’s also important to note that there are different ways of producing HOCI, so some brands may be more effective than others. Other than that, she says that HOCI is super simple to use, suitable for all skin types and affordable to buy.

PRODUCTS AVAILABLE

Three of the leading products available in the UK.

Dr Shotter uses Clinisept+ while other HOCI products available in the UK include NatraSan and Thoclor. HOCI can be purchased through your aesthetic practitioner, with the consumer version of Clinisept+, called Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier, directly available from the manufacturer or retailers such Boots. Scan the QR Code overleaf for more info. WORDS: CHLOÉ GRONOW

The leading high purity hypochlorous range for professional clinics Used by professionals loved by your skin Eﬀective protection against complications in all aesthetic applications Suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin Provides ideal conditions for rapid skin recovery

cliniseptplus.com

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Continue your aesthetics journey at home with Clinisoothe+ Skin Puriﬁer 7 benefits in 1 Purify, cleanse, soothe, balance, protect, recover and calm skin in one product formulated for daily use. Leading hypochlorous technology brought to you by the producers of Clinisept+

“Every facialist’s secret weapon”

Elle Magazine clinisoothe.com

PARTN E RS H I P

Turn Back the Clock on Eye Ageing Treat your concerns with radiofrequency

geing around the eye has become an increasingly common concern for both men and women. The rise in face-mask use has meant the eyes have become more prominent, motivating even more people to look into rejuvenating the area surrounding them. But with so many different treatments available, it can be difficult to find the right one. Radiofrequency is becoming an increasingly popular treatment to contour and shape the abdomen, buttocks, arms and thighs. More recently, technology has been developed to treat the common ageing concerns around the eye – and it’s a solution that could be just what you’re looking for!

After a thorough consultation, your practitioner will cleanse your face and then attach a Thermage® Return Pad to your back in order to neutralise the electrical current. Dr Kavouni explains, "The practitioner will insert eye shields prior to treatment to protect your eyes from the heat, apply a skin-marking paper grid, which they use as a map to target specific areas, and apply some gel onto the eye area. Using the handpiece device, we will place the applicator on the area being treated and you will feel a succession of warm bursts onto the skin. Patients may experience slight discomfort and sensitivity, but the treatment is much more comfortable than the previous versions.”2 Before

What is radiofrequency?

Radiofrequency (RF) is a non-invasive treatment which uses a fluctuating current of electricity to create heat, which gets delivered at specific temperatures to the tissues in your body. This controlled heat helps to stimulate your body to produce new collagen1 and elastin. Collagen is a natural protein in your body which gives it firmness, however once we enter our late 20s and early 30s, our collagen production starts to decline every year. That’s why treatments like radiofrequency which promote collagen production can have such great results for firmer, tighter looking skin!

Clinic treatments

While radiofrequency is used in many devices for body contouring and shaping, according to cosmetic surgeon Dr Angelica Kavouni, there are less options for treating the face, neck and eyelids. Dr Kavouni uses the Thermage FLX® system in her London clinic, a RF device that treats not only the face, neck and body but also the eyelids and which is the only non-invasive Dr Angelic Kavouni, London IG: @dr.angelickavouni RF device sold in the UK that is FDA cleared in the US for the treatment of the eye area. Each session only takes between 30-90 minutes, and results can be seen after one session!

Who is suitable for the treatment?

Dr Kavouni notes that a wide range of patients who have concerns with signs of ageing around the eye can benefit from this treatment. She says, “It can be applied to any skin colour and people aged 40 or above will gain the most from the procedure. Thermage FLX® is particularly suitable for those with early signs of hooded eyelids (when there is a small flap of excess skin under each eyebrow) and may help those who are not yet ready for a blepharoplasty (a type of surgery that repairs droopy eyelids) or are unsuitable for an operation. It can also be useful as a touch-up treatment a few years after blepharoplasty when the skin begins to sag again.” She continues, “Thermage FLX® cannot be performed on patients who have an electronic implantable device such as a pacemaker or cardioverter/defibrillator, and it is not suitable for women who are pregnant or nursing.” WORDS: HOLLY CARVER

What should you expect during a treatment?

After

Dr Kavouni states that Thermage FLX® is generally considered to have minimal complications when performed by a qualified professional, but you might experience minor side effects.3 She comments, “After the treatment you may feel some minor redness, swelling or sensitivity, but you can continue with your usual activities immediately after.”

What are the results like?

According to Dr Kavouni, patients may notice the eye area looks more fresh and awake immediately afterwards, while over the course of months there will be further gradual improvement.4 She comments, "Studies have shown a high patient satisfaction of 94% after the treatment5 and in my experience results last approximately one to two years.” Patients can expect to pay approximately £1,600 for one treatment. To find your nearest clinic that offers Thermage FLX®, head to www.thermage.co.uk REFERENCES 1. B. D Zelickson, et al. Histological and ultrastructural evaluation of the effects of a radiofrequency-based non-ablative dermal remodelling device: a pilot study. Arch Dermatol. 2004 Feb;140(2):204-9. 2. Solta Medical, 2009. Report on Gazelle Clinical Study 09-100-GA-T ‘Validation of the Thermage 3.0 cm2 STC and DC Frame Tips, Comfort Software and Vibration Handpiece on the Face and Thighs’ (#09-019ER). Bothell. 3. E. Finzi, A. Spangler. Multipass vector (mpave) technique with nonablative radiofrequency to treat facial and neck laxity. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Aug;31(8 Pt 1):916-22. 4. R. Fitzpatrick et al. Multicenter study of noninvasive radiofrequency for periorbital tissue tightening. Lasers Surg Med. 2003;33(4):232-42 5. J.S Dover, et al. Results of a survey of 5,700 patient monopolar radiofrequency facial skin tightening treatments: Assessment of a low-energy multi-pass technique leading to a clinical end point algorithm. Dermatol Surg 2007; Aug;33(8):900-7.

This advertorial was reviewed and funded by Thermage FLX®

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M A LE FOCU S

CARING FOR MALE SKIN Whether you enjoy looking after yourself or know a man who could do with some self-care, read on to learn how to attain healthy skin for men!

en are not immune to ageing or troublesome skin – acne, tired eyes, lines and wrinkles can be a source of particular bother for many. We know it’s on their minds too, with internet searches for ‘men’s skincare’ increasing by a whopping 350% in the past five years! Yet, sometimes, men can be hesitant to talk openly about their concerns and seek advice. So, if you’re a man looking to up your skincare game or wanting to support someone close to you, where do you start? How is men’s skin different to women and what products should you be using? Beyond Beauty chats to Dr Benji Dhillon for his advice – an aesthetic practitioner based in Beaconsfield who, as well as running a busy clinic and bringing up four kids, has his skincare routine nailed! Find him on Instagram @drbenjidhillon

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MA LE FOC US

MEN WANT GREAT SKIN TOO

THE PRODUCTS EVERY MAN SHOULD HAVE…

“Since lockdown, I’ve been seeing more and more men who are starting to think further about their skin health,” says Dr Dhillon, explaining, “A lot of people who were previously travelling for work are now based at home and have more time on their hands to research what might help their skin. They are also regularly viewing themselves on video calls and are noticing that they might look tired, so are thinking about how they can improve their overall appearance.” He says that the thing with men is that they don’t usually know what they want. While women will have done their research, chatted to their friends and have a good understanding of the options available, men tend to come in simply saying, “I just want to look a bit better.” Men (and some women) will also often say that they want a ‘quick fix’ and ‘don’t have time’ to look after their skin. For this, Dr Dhillon whips out one of his best analogies! He explains, “I’ll always say to anyone wanting to dodge skincare – you’ll go to the dentist for teeth whitening or veneers, but know that if you don’t brush your teeth at home you’ll never get the best results. Brushing your teeth is the same as looking after your skin at home – no matter what aesthetic treatment you have, the end result will never be as good if your skin quality is lacking!”

“The basics I tell men to start off with is what I like to call The Holy Trinity of Skincare,” says Dr Dhillon. This includes:

MALE SKIN IS DIFFERENT TO FEMALE SKIN There are three key differences between male and female skin, according to Dr Dhillon. Number one is that men have a much thicker dermis, meaning higher concentrations of products will be needed to penetrate the skin, he explains. The second is that men tend to have stronger facial muscles, which can result in lines and wrinkles being a lot deeper than in a woman’s face. And finally, it’s usually hairier! Dr Dhillon notes that when it comes to ageing, this is a good thing, as facial hair can stabilise the skin, particularly around the mouth area, meaning men tend to not get barcode lines around the mouth like women do. The challenge many men face is what products are best to keep their skin looking refreshed and healthy!

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CLEANSER: used morning and night to wash the face and remove impurities for fresh, hydrated skin VITAMIN C: a high concentration antioxidant serum for the daytime to aid skin’s natural regeneration process SPF: apply in the morning and as necessary throughout the day to protect skin from sun damage, which can lead to pigmentation, lines and wrinkles Dr Dhillon says, “It’s worth emphasising that cleanser can be used in the shower and other products will take less than a minute to slap on, so it’s not disrupting a man’s morning and evening routines too much. Of course, using SPF throughout the year can prevent the risk of developing skin cancer, but many men don’t realise how much it helps with ageing too, so talking about the health benefits of using it can really help.” When choosing a vitamin C product, Dr Dhillon advises selecting one with 20% concentration for maximum effect. For women, on the other hand, he would usually recommend 10-15%. Dr Dhillon says his next step is to introduce: MOISTURISERS: to reduce the chance of developing extreme dryness or oiliness throughout the day, which can lead to conditions such as acne RETINOIDS: used at night to increase collagen production and to help the skin to ‘turn over’, keeping younger, healthier cells close to the surface “Most men want a moisturiser as shaving can really dry skin out and make it feel quite tight,” explains Dr Dhillon, adding, “What men don’t want is a moisturiser that makes their skin shine, so borrowing one from a woman or friend can have an undesired effect! There are plenty of matte moisturisers available – my recommendation is the Obagi Hydrate Moisturiser or the skinbetter science Alto Defense Serum, which is great as it doubles up as a vitamin C and moisturiser! Adding a night-time retinoid can seem like a bit of an effort, as well as being confusing with so many types to choose from. Dr Dhillon advises, however, “Retinoids are the only skincare ingredient proven to treat wrinkles and using them will lead to better skin in the long term.” Retinoid is the umbrella term for a number of ingredients, all derived from vitamin A. The difference between them is their concentration. From weakest to strongest topical applications they are: • Retinol esters (retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate) • Retinol • Retinyl Retinoate

M A LE FOCU S

• Retinaldehyde • Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) • Retinoic acid (also known as retin-A or tretinoin) We can talk a lot more about retinoids, their benefits and how they should be used safely, but that’s for a future issue! The important thing to bear in mind for now is that they can dry and peel the skin, so they’re not usually recommended for those with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema. Dr Dhillon advises, “I’d say if a man doesn’t want to risk peeling, they should start with a light retinol of between 0.5 to 1% every other night. Note that for women this would be more like 0.1-0.2% as their skin is generally thinner. This can eventually be increased to every night as the skin learns to tolerate it for best results.” He adds that anyone who uses a retinoid must also use SPF the following morning as they can make skin extremely sensitive to light and, subsequently, sun damage.

WOMEN CAN HELP TOO!

MORNING ♦ I start by cleansing my face with Obagi Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser – this is great for eliminating oil, dirt and other debris on the skin ♦ After summer, I would follow this with Obagi-C Rx Clarifying Serum as I'll usually have a 'pigmentation hangover' – this product contains hydroquinone which is proven to reduce darks spots and melasma for a more even skin tone ♦ Next, I moisturise with Obagi Hydrate Moisturiser which provides hydration all day ♦ Finally, I add some sun protection – at the moment I’m using Teoxane Advanced Perfecting Shield SPF30 which is tinted so will cover up my pigmentation until it goes away

EVENING ♦ I cleanse with Obagi Gentle Cleanser again before alternating: ⇒ One-night Obagi Retinol 1.0 which fights against signs of ageing such as lines and wrinkles ⇒ The next night Obagi Professional-C Microdermabrasion Polish + Mask, which helps smooth the skin, or the SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Mask, which is great for the winter months when the central heating is drying out your skin

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WORDS: CHLOÉ GRONOW

So how do men get on board with skincare? Dr Dhillon says, “I would recommend that everyone starts talking more about male skin health and how it’s not feminine to take care of skin. Skincare simply helps everyone look and feel healthier and more confident – little wins through enhancing skin quality can make men feel on top of their game and give them the boost needed to succeed in both their professional and personal life.” He also recommends women encourage men to trial a little bit of their own skincare so they can see how easy it is to use once in a routine! Then, Dr Dhillon advises women to invite the men in their life to their next appointment with their aesthetic practitioner, noting, “I’m sure your practitioner will be happy to talk through options and it may help for the man in your life to hear all the facts and figures from a professional.” And if they still need convincing? “Tell them about other men or male celebrities such as Ryan Reynolds, David Beckham and Michael B Jordan who take care of their skin – they don’t just look great by accident!” Dr Dhillon says, explaining that sharing his own skincare routine with male patients is the best way he gets them on board. He details his top tips for us here!

DR DHILLON'S SKINCARE ROUTINE

FIGHT URBAN

SKIN AGING

ADVANCED PERFECTING SHIELD THE EXCELLENCE OF SWISS SCIENCE

DAILY URBAN DEFENSE ANTIOXIDANT ANTI-POLLUTION - SPF30

ASK THE EXPERT

How To:

Apply Sunscreen Why you NEED to include SPF in your daily skincare routine

hen you think of sunscreen you think of being abroad in a hot country, lathering it on by the poolside. What you don’t think of is a dull day in the UK. However, sun protection factor (SPF) should be an important part of everyone’s skincare regime, regardless of the heat. Why? Because without it, your skin can be exposed to harmful UV rays which lead to premature ageing, wrinkles and pigmentation. Online skincare retailer Face the Future found that despite the fact that we know SPF should be worn daily, regardless of the weather conditions, they’ve seen trends of around a 64% increase in searches for 'SPF' and 'sunscreen' between March and August, before dipping again from September onwards. We spoke to London-based dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams to discover her top tips for sunscreen application.

What will protect your skin?

How much to apply

Dr Stefanie Williams, London IG: @drstefaniew

Vitamin D…

Does anyone ever pay attention to the amount of sunscreen they put on? Or do they just squeeze it out, rub it in and hope for the best? According to Dr Williams, the majority of people do not apply nearly enough product to protect their skin. In fact, the average amount applied only provides a maximum of 40% of the expected protection from the sun’s harmful rays. She says, “The desired amount would be a third of a tablespoon for each area, but most people only apply about half that amount. People also often forget certain areas such as the ears or the neck – you need to make sure you apply the cream smoothly and evenly all over. Ideally, people should be topping up this amount every two hours, but of course this isn’t always feasible and it can sweat or be rubbed off. That’s why it’s important to make sure you’ve at least got a high SPF.”

According to Dr Williams, there has recently been a great deal of discussion about how sun protection creams affect your body’s synthesis of vitamin D, which can be obtained from the sun.

It’s for men too!

“As a dermatologist, I would much rather recommend vitamin D supplements to adjust your level if you’re deficient,” Dr Williams comments, explaining, “It’s very important for people to take vitamin D supplements along with using the correct SPF, and that prevents any unnecessary sun damage whilst also keeping your levels up.”

Dr Williams says that in her experience, it’s more likely for men to neglect the use of SPF in their everyday routines. She says, “It’s not just that they don’t know as much about skincare, but men seem to have a notion of SPF as this horrible sticky formula that was put on them as a kid. Most of them are scared to use it! They aren’t aware of how important it can be. So, while the women reading this should make it part of their routines, they need to remind their husbands and partners too as well!”

This is because vitamin D is important for maintaining strong and healthy bones, while deficiency has been shown to increase the risk of multiple sclerosis, rheumatoid arthritis, certain cancers including breast cancer, high blood pressure, heart disease, diabetes and other chronic diseases to name a few. With all this in mind, people always ask, ‘Shouldn’t we make sure to sit in the sun every day to keep our vitamin D production high?’

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WORDS: HOLLY CARVER

There is a wide variety of suncreams, oils and sprays on the market, so what should we be looking for when buying our SPF? “From a professional standpoint, I believe that you should always be going for SPF 30 or above even if you aren’t in the sunshine,” advises Dr Williams. “You will see a lot of makeup products, moisturisers and lotions that include SPF 15, and women often think that this can give them their protection for the day. Of course, something is always better than nothing, but if you’re out and about all day with no time to reapply, you need to make sure your face is getting the most protection that it can. I believe the higher the better!” Dr Williams also recommends going for products that are broad spectrum, because this protects you from both UVA

and UVB rays. UVA rays can prematurely age your skin, causing wrinkling and age spots and UVB rays can burn your skin. Too much exposure to both UVA and UVB rays can also cause skin cancer. As such, a 4-star UVA protection is recommended.

E XCLUS I VE I N S I GHT

Introducing the Queen of Tweakments

PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN GOODWIN

Award-winning journalist Alice Hart-Davis has spent the last 20 years trialing and reporting on skincare and aesthetic treatments. In this exclusive interview, Alice shares everything she’s learnt along the way…

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EX CLUS I VE INSIGH T

Alice’s Experience

How did you first start reporting on aesthetic treatments? Back in the late 1990s, almost no one had heard of aesthetic treatments like toxin, lasers and chemical peels, but the features editor on the Evening Standard, where I worked, was hugely curious about what these things were, who was doing them and who was having them. So I was sent to find out.

What was the first treatment you tried?

rejuvenate the skin... microneedling… regenerating skin-boosters like PRP – where plasma from your blood is injected back into your face – and injectable moisturising procedures, where a fine layer of moisture-retaining gel is injected just under the skin surface. Those are all nonsurgical procedures – I’ve also tried semi-surgical procedures such as fat-transfer, where I had fat extracted from my thighs and placed into my face. All of these are written up in my book, The Tweakments Guide: Fresher Face.

I went to interview Dr Rita Rakus in London and tried a treatment. Even though she was known as The London Lip Queen I was too scared to have my lips injected, so she popped some filler into my noseto-mouth lines instead, to soften them. It took five minutes, it didn’t hurt – the injection is just a scratch – and the difference was immediate and amazing. ‘OK,’ I thought, ‘This stuff clearly works!’ It was a couple of years before I tried another procedure, but it certainly piqued my interest in just what tweakments could do on a personal level.

What’s your favourite treatment to have?

How many different treatments have you tested over the years?

My top three treatments would be:

Dozens and dozens! All types of wrinkle-relaxing toxins and fillers that revolumise or reshape the face… skin peels, lasers and intense-pulsed light treatments that clear patchy pigmentation and refresh the skin surface. I’ve had energy treatments like ultrasound and radiofrequency that tighten and

•

I like so many of them for different reasons. I love procedures that improve the skin health and make it look better at the same time, so things like microneedling or injectable moisturising treatments.

If you were only able to have three treatments or use certain products for the rest of your life, what would they be? I’ll presume sunscreen’s a given? If I could only use one product, it would be a moisturising sunscreen!

•

"I've had fat extracted from my thigh and placed in my face!"

Profhilo – because it’s so great for regenerating the skin, improving hydration, and giving older skin back that bounce and glow which age just strips away. Eyelash perming and tinting with lash expert Sue Marsh – it’s not a medical procedure but it makes the most massive difference to my whole face, whatever else is going on. Hormone replacement therapy – I’ve been on bioidentical hormone supplements for a decade and they’ve kept me feeling next-tonormal the whole way through the menopause. The oestrogen and progesterone in there are massively helpful with keeping the skin and bones in good shape, too. They’re the last thing I’d give up.

The Aesthetics World

How have you seen aesthetic treatments develop over time? The whole aesthetic medical industry has grown exponentially over the past 20 years. When I started, it was mainly about wrinkle-relaxing toxin, lasers, and savage skin peels. Injectable collagen fillers, made with collagen from cow skins, were still popular (they did a good job, as long as you weren’t allergic to it), and Restylane, the first hyaluronic acid-based filler, had just launched. Now, there are so many more procedures available including energy devices based on beyondbeautylive.com

E XCLUS I VE I N S I GHT

radiofrequency or ultrasound for tightening the skin, and injectable treatments that boost skin quality. Also, back then, tweakments were all about erasing the signs of ageing on older faces. Now, they are almost as popular for enhancing cheeks, jawlines and lips among the under-35s as they are for what you could call ‘age-management’ in the 40-plus group. Think of all the Hollywood actresses who look as good in their 50s as they did in their 30s.

Why is skincare so important? It’s vital! You’ve got to start with skincare, whatever else you’re thinking of doing to your face. Using effective skincare with active ingredients like vitamin C and retinol will improve the quality of your skin and get it glowing with health. I’ve written a whole book about this (called Start with Skincare believe it or not), and there’s masses of information about skincare, and how specific ingredients work, on my website. There’s little point in having non-surgical aesthetic procedures if your skin, the fabric of your face, looks dull and lifeless. It’s also vital to commit to wearing sunscreen every day (yes, even in the depths of winter) to protect your skin from ultraviolet light.

From your experience of chatting to lots of people interested in or having aesthetic treatment, could you estimate how many don’t tell their friends/family? I’d say it’s still the majority of people. Even people who come to my Tweakments Clinic events, which are all about learning how cosmetic treatments can be of benefit and meeting leading aesthetic practitioners, often say, ‘This is a private, secret mission!’ or ‘My daughters would kill me if they knew!’ I so wish these attitudes would change – which they might, if we could only have a more open and honest discussion about tweakments, what they are and what they can do. For many people, cosmetic procedures are a useful way of managing how they look as they age. It has become acceptable to colour our hair, and whiten our teeth, yet there is still so much judgement around the whole idea of having something ‘done’ to our faces that people shy away from talking about it.

What are your thoughts on celebrities not being open about having aesthetic treatments? It really winds me up! How is the shame and stigma around tweakments ever going to go away when this whole group of beautiful people – who have more procedures than most – totally deny that they do anything of the sort? I’ve lost count of the number of interviews where the celeb says, ‘I tried Botox once, but it made me look weird, so I never did it again…’ and claims that their suspiciously good looks are because they’ve gone vegan/do yoga/use some magic face cream. We know that these people get a huge amount of help with their image, from personal stylists to trainers and makeup artists. Why do we imagine they’re above doing cosmetic procedures? If they spoke up about what they do and why – as Gwyneth Paltrow has recently done about having her frown lines treated with toxin – it would massively help to open up the whole conversation around tweakments and what they can do.

Is there anything new that’s really exciting you at the moment? Yes! I am fascinated by the whole area of regenerative aesthetic medicine. For example, plasma taken from our own blood to regenerate the skin or the hair, or using fat extracted from one part of the body, such as the tummy or the thighs, to rebuild volume in the face, or taking stem cells extracted from that fat to improve the results of fat transfer. It sounds a bit out there, but I’m sure it’s the way of the future. 38

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EX CLUS I VE INSIGH T

Alice’s Exclusive Advice for You What would you recommend to those just starting to think about tweakments? Think long and hard about what it is that you want from treatment – and do your research. There is so little regulation around aesthetic medicine in the UK that it is up to you to keep yourself safe (read the Beyond Beauty Reputable Organisations on p.69 or the ‘staying safe’ section on my website). You can’t presume that any particular treatment is safe just because it’s available, nor that the practitioner offering it is competent because they’re wearing a white coat.

Alice Hart-Davis is the founder of The Tweakments Guide – an online resource dedicated to sharing everything you need to know about aesthetics.

Is there a particular age people should start having treatments? When you start having treatment is completely up to you as the individual. Most people start considering procedures when the signs of ageing – wrinkles, loss of facial volume or age spots – start becoming more obvious. I’m reluctant to encourage anyone in their 20s to try treatments, because most people that age don’t realise how gorgeous they are without any further enhancement. It has been proven that wrinkle-relaxing toxins can be used on younger faces to prevent frown lines becoming entrenched, for instance, yet I don’t think we should demonise the idea of having lines. We need to be able to use our faces to express our feelings.

How do you know what treatment to ask for? Think long and hard about what is bothering you about your face. Read up on the options available, then go and see a really good practitioner and discuss with them what it is that you want to change – and ask what they would suggest, why, what it costs, and how much of a difference it might make. Then go home and think about it some more before you book in for anything – in line with guidance from their regulatory bodies, all medical practitioners should be offering you a two week ‘cooling-off’ period as standard.

If you can get a personal recommendation from a friend, that’s fab, but even then, do your homework. Because of the lack of regulation, you or I could kit ourselves out with dermal fillers and needles and set up in business injecting people tomorrow, perfectly legally. And yes, that’s terrifying. There is no legal register of people qualified to inject others. I’d say you want someone who is: • • • • •

Medically qualified Well-trained in specific aesthetic procedures Has a lot of experience in doing those procedures – we all get better with practice Competent to handle complications, should something go wrong Ideally has an artistic eye, so that they’ll give you lovely-looking results

She has published two hugely successful books: The Tweakments Guide: Fresher Face (£14.95) The Tweakments Guide: Start with Skincare (£9.19) Find out more via thetweakmentsguide.com and follow Alice on Instagram IG: @alicehartdavis

PHOTOGRAPHY: HANNAH MCCLUNE

How should you choose a practitioner?

There are lots of fab doctors, nurses, surgeons and dentists listed on my website who I’d trust with my own face.

What should you do if you experience a complication following treatment? Get in touch with your practitioner immediately – they should always provide you with an out-of-hours contact number – send them pictures of what is bothering you and explain the problem. If they can’t or won’t help you, find a reputable practitioner who can help, and do it quickly. Again, the Reputable Organisations on p.69 or the ‘staying safe’ section on my website can point you in the right direction. If it turns out to be a serious problem, you may need to find a medical negligence solicitor.

INTERVIEW: CHLOÉ GRONOW

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PA RT NE R S H IP

The Power of Antioxidants Advice on selecting the best formula for your skin concern

e can guarantee you’ve heard of antioxidants, but do you know what they do or how they should be used? You may have even tried a couple out, yet had little success and, according to many aesthetic practitioners, it’s no surprise. Choosing the incorrect antioxidant for your skin type can be all too common as many people don’t realise that your antioxidant should be specifically tailored to your skin concern for results to be really effective! So, with that in mind, Beyond Beauty delves into understanding how to make the best antioxidant choices for your skin…

WHAT ARE ANTIOXIDANTS AND WHY DO WE NEED THEM? In simple terms, antioxidants are molecules that fight free radical damage. Free radicals are unstable molecules and, when they outnumber antioxidants, they can cause ‘oxidative stress’. This stress damages the skin’s cells, resulting in premature ageing signs and skin damage. Free radical formation can be increased by certain lifestyle and environmental factors, including: • • • • • •

Air pollution Cigarette smoke Alcohol intake High blood sugar levels High intake of polyunsaturated fatty acids Radiation damage through excessive sunbathing

In the skincare world, antioxidants are essential in preventing and managing skin concerns.

ANTIOXIDANTS IN SKINCARE There are numerous antioxidant skincare products on the market, which each include different ingredients at various percentages. The most common antioxidant you’re likely

to have heard of is vitamin C. Loved by dermatologists and aesthetic practitioners, this powerful ingredient – known as l-ascorbic acid when in its purest form – helps skin look brighter, more luminous and prevents premature signs of ageing. As it’s not produced naturally in the body, vitamin C should be applied topically in order to reap its benefits! Of course eating foods which are rich in vitamin C, such as citrus fruits, will be good for your general health too. But vitamin C isn’t all you need for healthy skin. Some antioxidants work better as a team, while others won’t have the optimum percentage of vitamin C (10-20% is recommended by industry experts as anything over 20% cannot be absorbed by the skin). Choosing a product with an appropriate formula for your skin concern is therefore essential. This leads us to the SkinCeuticals powerhouse!

CHOOSING AN ANTIOXIDANT SERUM SkinCeuticals is regarded by many aesthetic practitioners as the true leader in antioxidant skincare. With a mission to improve skin health, the expert scientists at SkinCeuticals have spent over 30 years researching and innovating new products that are proven to work. SkinCeuticals is renowned for creating ‘triple antioxidant’ formulations, which are particularly rare as often antioxidant products contain only one antioxidant. SkinCeuticals' founding scientist Dr Sheldon Pinnell established and patented the first vitamin C formulation parameters (known as the Duke Patent Parameters) for ensuring effective absorption and efficacy within skin. These include, pure vitamin C in a high concentration of 1020% and at a low pH (<3.5). Here we detail each product so you can choose what’s right for you. Whichever antioxidant you use, it’s advised by SkinCeuticals to apply four to five drops of your serum to a dry face, neck and chest in the morning after cleansing and toning.1,5,6

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PA RT NE R S H IP

SILYMARIN CF1 Best for: oily and blemish-prone skin Clinically proven to: reduce oil oxidation by up to 76%,2 improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by up to 24%,3 and reduce excess sebum by up to 15%4 Key ingredients: • 15% l-ascorbic acid – pure vitamin C antioxidant • 0.5% silymarin – antioxidant compound taken from milk thistle seeds • 0.5% ferulic acid – plant-based antioxidant • 0.5% salicylic acid – beta hydroxy acid used to exfoliate skin Added benefit: "Finally I can provide my patients with a unique antioxidant combination that is targeted for oily and blemish-prone skin. The inflammatory impact of oil has many adverse consequences on skin health. Another scientific step forwards towards better skin quality!" – Dr Jonquille Chantrey

PHLORETIN CF5 Best for: hyperpigmentation and dull/uneven skin tone Clinically proven to: reinforce the skin’s natural protection against free radicals, while refining texture for a smooth and more uniform skin tone Key ingredients: • 10% l-ascorbic acid – pure vitamin C antioxidant • 2% phloretin – antioxidant extracted from the root bark of apple trees • 0.5% ferulic acid – plant-based antioxidant Added benefit: excellent complement to sunscreen, such as the SkinCeuticals Advanced Brightening UV Defense SPF 50, for enhanced protection

C E FERULIC6 Best for: fine lines, wrinkles and lack of firmness Clinically proven to: neutralise free radicals on the upper layer of the skin to help prevent the impact of ozone damage to the skin Key ingredients: • 15% l-ascorbic acid – pure vitamin C antioxidant • 1% vitamin E – fat-soluble antioxidant that helps maintain collagen fibres • 0.5% ferulic acid – plant-based antioxidant Added benefit: delivers x8 environmental protection. Tested suitable for use post-laser, always consult with a physician/professional for individual post-procedure care

So, now you know what antioxidants are and how much they can benefit you, what’s stopping you from purchasing your first product? For more advice visit www.skinceuticals.co.uk to find a stocklist clinic near you.

This advertorial was reviewed and funded by SkinCeuticals

REFERENCES 1. SkinCeuticals, Silymarin CF <https://www.skinceuticals.co.uk/en_GB/silymarin-cf/3337875746267.html#tab=Tabs_q2uqvr0i3wf_ control_2> 2. Clinical study, 35 subjects (China, 2020) 3. 8 week clinical study, 55 women (USA, 2019) 4. 12 week clinical study, 60 women (Brazil, 2020) 5. SkinCeuticals, Phloretin CF https://www.skinceuticals.co.uk/en_GB/phloretin-cf/635494328202.html#tab=Tabs_63zvjyf4x73_control_2 6. SkinCeuticals, CE Ferulic <https://www.skinceuticals.co.uk/en_GB/c-e-ferulic/635494363210.html#tab=Tabs_cv7bfphlrcd_control_2>

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WORDS: CHLOÉ GRONOW

AN ATO M Y FO CUS

How Will You Age? Find out how the area around your eye changes over time and what can be done about it!

Miss Elizabeth Hawkes, consultant oculoplastic and ophthalmic surgeon, London IG: @dr_elizabethhawkes

HOW DOES THE EYE (PERIORBITAL) AREA AGE? Eyelid skin is the first part of the face to show signs of ageing as it is the thinnest skin on the face, measuring less than 1mm thick. Unlike the rest of the face it lacks a cushion of fat and the muscle is directly underneath the skin. The prolapsed orbital fat, which is the culprit of eyebags, is deeper. The muscle (called the orbicularis oculi) contracts with blinking (we blink around 12 times a minute!) making the eyelid skin prone to fine lines. This is the reason that upper- and lower-eyelid blepharoplasty surgeries (operations to correct excess skin, muscle and to reduce the appearance of puffiness and eyebags plus improve peripheral vision in severe cases) are two of the most common cosmetic procedures performed worldwide.

HOW CAN WE SLOW EYE AGEING? SPF protection is essential! UV rays age the skin, causing premature wrinkles and increasing the risk of skin cancer. Eyelid skin is classically missed in sun cream application and, subsequently, eyelid tumours are a common presentation to oculoplastic (eye) surgeons like myself. Therefore, a minimum of SPF 30 is essential to start in teenage years and I would advise to wear sunglasses with a UV 400 filter. Hydration is also important! The eyelid skin has less sebaceous glands compared to the face so it requires help to keep it plump and hydrated. Hyaluronic acid is key to maintaining moisture and is made naturally by our body; it is in our skin, eyes and joints. It is highly hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water, which is how it keeps skin looking plump and smooth. Hyaluronic acid is the foundation of most nonpermanent dermal filler treatments and can be found in many skincare formulations.

HOW CAN WE REDUCE THE APPEARANCE OF TIRED AND AGEING EYES? By understanding the anatomy and associated facial changes over time, non-surgical and surgical treatment options can be offered. Ageing around the eye area is complex, but an experienced medical aesthetic practitioner or surgeon can help to address your unique concerns.

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AN ATO M Y FO CUS

Ocular Anatomy & Treatments 1. 2 2. 11

12 5

4. 5.

6 8

7. 9 8. 10 9. 10. 11.

12.

FOREHEAD RHYTIDS Repetitive muscle contractions cause rhytids (wrinkles) Treatment: botulinum toxin BROW PTOSIS Drooping and deflation of the eyebrow Treatment: dermal filler or surgical brow lift UPPER-EYELID DERMATOCHALASIS (HOODING) Skin loses elasticity to cause excess eyelid skin Treatment: surgical upper-eyelid blepharoplasty LATERAL CANTHAL LINES (CROW’S FEET) Smile lines around the side of the eyes Treatment: botulinum toxin LOWER EYELID DERMATOCHALASIS Excess lower eyelid skin Treatment: surgical blepharoplasty EYEBAGS Tissues around the eye weaken and fat can prolapse (fall out of place) causing eyebags Treatment: surgical lower-eyelid blepharoplasty MALAR BAGS OR FESTOONS Pockets of fluid causing mounds which are situated where the outer corner of the lower eyelid and upper cheek meet – they can fluctuate in size Treatment: surgical blepharoplasty (very challenging) NASOJUGAL GROOVE (TEAR TROUGH) Deep line formation where the lower eyelid and upper cheek meet Treatment: dermal filler CHEEK VOLUME LOSS AND PTOSIS Deflation and descent of the fat in the cheeks Treatment: dermal filler NASOLABIAL FOLDS Deep lines develop from the nose to mouth Treatment: dermal filler MEDIAL FAT PAD PROLAPSE A structure called the septum weakens, causing fat around the eye to bulge in the inner corner of the eyelid Treatment: surgical upper-eyelid blepharoplasty BUNNY LINES Fine lines either side of the nose Treatment: botulinum toxin

INTERVIEW: SHANNON KILGARIFF

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Endorsed by

Venus Williams 7 Tennis Grand Slam titles, 5 Wimbledon championships and 4 Olympic gold medals

Confidence

takes shape

Body Reshaping Skin Tightening Cellulite Reduction Lift & Tone NO SURGERY

BEFORE

AFTER (one month)

REAL RESULTS 25-MINUTE TREATMENTS NO DOWNTIME 2 x Fat Treatment and 2 x Skin Tightening Treatment

www.venustreatments.com #venustreatments

REAL-LIFE STORY

Digital Discussions Nervous – or unsure – about a virtual consultation? Read one patient’s advice on what to expect

hroughout the pandemic, access to services we took for granted were closed off to us. No longer could we enjoy a meal out with friends, get our hair done or go for a mooch around the shops. Takeaways, boxed hair dye and next-day delivery became our best friends, acting as good substitutes for our usual indulgences. But aesthetic treatments – they were a no-go. Like other businesses, clinics across the country have been forced to shut their doors on and off for the past year, leaving their loyal patients desperate for their regular treatment top-ups and those thinking about starting their aesthetic journey wondering how to start! The skincare market saw a boom as more people began noticing skin and ageing concerns while constantly staring at themselves on video calls, and practitioners worked hard to keep their businesses afloat by offering virtual consultations to recommend skincare and book appointments

for when clinics could reopen. The success of virtual consultations has meant that Debbie and Miss Balaratnam during their virtual consultation. many aesthetic practitioners have decided to continue offering them even when things are back to normal. Saving Debbie’s concerns time for both you and them, a video call has Debbie started having botulinum toxin – antiproven to be just as effective as meeting in real wrinkle injections commonly known by the life. Some of you may, however, be a little put off brand name Botox with other brands available by going digital – preferring to meet in person – in her early 30s. She says, “I loved it, but when I and wondering whether a practitioner will really became pregnant at 39 it all changed.” be able to assess your concerns as well as they Unable to have regular top-ups throughout could face-to-face. her pregnancy, Debbie thought she’d get back Debbie was one of these women. At 53 years to it as soon as the baby was born. “Instead, old, with two children who were now more my appearance went completely out of the independent at ages 11 and 13, she was ready to window as the baby took over,” she explains. venture into aesthetic treatment in 2020. Her second daughter came just two years But how could she with clinics closed? Debbie later, and Debbie found the next 10 years started researching treatment options and preoccupied with work and bringing up suitable practitioners during lockdown, with children, with not much time for herself. the hope of booking an appointment for when “Then the menopause happened,” she says, clinics reopened. emphasising, “Oh my goodness, it was tough. You go through all the hormonal changes Before After which are difficult enough to deal with, along with a drastically ageing face. It was like I’d transformed into an old person overnight!” The menopause most often begins between the ages of 45 and 55, as a woman’s oestrogen levels decline. This leads to decreased levels of collagen and elastin, which give the skin its structural support. This is why women will notice deeper lines and wrinkles appearing, and their skin start to sag as its youthful volume is lost, resulting in jowl formation (sagging skin below your chin or jawline). “For me, the jowling was the worst,” says Debbie, explaining, “You expect some wrinkles and I’ve always looked at them as a life welllived, especially smile lines! But the sagging just made me feel and look grumpy and old. My lips also thinned, and my lines had gotten Images show Debbie's face from the left before and after treatment with botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid dermal filler. beyondbeautylive.com

REAL-LIFE STORY

deeper. I was frustrated as I’d always looked after my skin, eating healthily and avoiding too much sun exposure, so I was shocked when the changes occurred so quickly.” Debbie’s general assumption was that the jowls could only be addressed with a surgical facelift, which didn’t appeal to her. Instead she looked into getting her lips done to add that lost volume and having toxin treatment to address the lines and wrinkles. “I never even considered filler anywhere else – you just don’t hear about it much,” she says.

"By the end of the video consultation, we were talking about something I didn't think could be achieved without surgery!"

referred back to my assumption that I’d need surgery,” she says, “So that’s when Miss Balaratnam explained the ageing process and all of the different treatment options available to me.” Miss Balaratnam detailed how collagen loss occurs with age, as well as how the bones in the face shrink with time, just as they do in the rest of the body. Miss Balaratnam said that by injecting certain points on the face with hyaluronic acid filler, Debbie’s jowls could be lifted, along with the downward turn of her smile, eradicating the ‘grumpy’ appearance she was so fed up with. She also talked through what products she would use – explaining all the potential side effects and complications that can occur. “By the end of the video consultation, we were talking about something I didn’t think could be achieved without surgery! I was so excited and delighted to feel my concerns were really understood," says Debbie, adding that it was also reassuring to recognise that she wasn’t just being vain – her concerns were something many men and women experience as they age, which can have a negative effect on their self-esteem and confidence. Before

After

Before

After

Before

After

The digital consultation

After significant research into suitable practitioners, Debbie found Miss Sherina Balaratnam, a surgeon and cosmetic doctor who runs the award-winning S-Thetics clinic in Buckinghamshire. She sent an email enquiry and was booked in for a virtual consultation. For the 45-minute appointment, Debbie was asked to not wear makeup, tie her hair back and wear a plain black top so there wouldn’t be a reflection or distracting pattern to contend with. “I knew it was necessary as we were in the middle of the pandemic, but I was apprehensive that Miss Balaratnam would not be able to see my concerns properly and I’d have to be doing strange close-ups to the camera,” says Debbie. She needn’t have worried, though. Miss Balaratnam simply conducted her assessment by talking to Debbie, taking her medical history and asking her about her concerns. While doing so, Miss Balaratnam observed how Debbie’s facial features moved while she talked, as well as how they presented when she was still, in order to inform her recommended treatment approach. Debbie notes that it was great not to have to leave the comfort of her own home, as well as avoiding the stress of finding the clinic and somewhere to park, before walking down the high street with no makeup on! Overall, she says, “It was brilliant – time was really invested in getting to know me, and I was surprised it wasn’t all about looking at my face!” Just like a face-to-face consultation, along with Debbie’s aesthetic concerns, Miss Balaratnam discussed her lifestyle, stress levels, eating habits and exercise, which can all have an influence on how we age. “When she asked what I wanted to achieve from treatment, I immediately told her what I thought I needed – lip filler and toxin treatment. However, she acknowledged that I had mentioned concerns with my jowls, which these procedures wouldn’t address,” explains Debbie. “I 46

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Images show Debbie's sun damage and redness improvement following an effective skincare routine using the iS Clinical range, visible via the VISIA Skin Analysis device.

REAL-LIFE STORY

The face-to-face appointment

Before

After

Debbie was booked in for a face-to-face appointment when restrictions lifted, and after she’d had time to really think about whether the treatment outlined was something she wanted to go ahead with, which she says it definitely was! When the day came, Debbie also underwent a VISIA Skin Analysis, which is a device that rotates around your face, taking multiple images which record and measure skin conditions. These include UV damage, spots, wrinkles, texture and pores. While not all clinics will have this technology, Miss Balaratnam offers it as part of her consultations as it allows patients to better understand their skin health. Debbie's VISIA Analysis results are shown in the pictures to your left. “This was brilliant,” says Debbie, explaining that even though she’s used SPF and good skincare all her life, there was still sun damage visible, and the analysis made it obvious where Images show Debbie's face from the right side before and after treatment with botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid dermal filler. she wasn’t applying it properly, as the area around the edges of her face were more affected. “This allowed me to make simple yet The result effective changes to my skincare routine, as well as giving me the kick I “I felt so emotional afterwards,” she says, noting, “I didn’t want a new needed to drink more water and eat healthier, as it was explained that face – I’ve had this one for 50-odd years – I just wanted to look my best this all has an impact on my skin,” she says. and the treatment allowed me to do just that. My whole perception of what can be achieved with aesthetic medicine has changed and I When it came to the treatment itself, everything went without a hitch! would definitely recommend considering it if you’re looking for that Debbie was then provided with written notes on her treatment, as well confidence boost so many of us need as we age!” as being given aftercare guidance and a follow-up digital appointment. Debbie was delighted with the result, noticing an immediate She concludes, “Don’t be put off by a virtual consultation – hopefully improvement to her jowling, with the wrinkle-relaxing effects of toxin everyone’s really used to video calls now and I think they’re here to stay. kicking in after a couple of weeks. And in the end, no lip filler was They’re so much more efficient and, if you go to a suitably-qualified administered as the other treatments made the real difference Debbie practitioner who puts your needs first, then there’s no reason why it was hoping for. won’t be as effective as meeting in real life!”

Personalised online skin tests rose by 49.8% in 2020 due to people becoming worried about ‘Zoom Face’ and focusing on self-care during lockdown Study conducted by online skincare retailer Face the Future

Practitioner Perspective

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WORDS: CHLOÉ GRONOW

Miss Sherina Balaratnam, cosmetic doctor and surgeon, Buckinghamshire IG: @sthetics_clinic

I injected Debbie’s temples and outer cheeks with a product called Juvéderm Voluma, which helped address the sagging and improve the structure she had lost with age. I then focused on her jawline – injecting Juvéderm Volux to add the definition Debbie desired. Optimising skin health is a key part of my practice, so I created a bespoke skincare routine for Debbie using the iS Clinical product range. I’m so glad she was pleased with her result and am looking forward to seeing her in future! For a full-face approach such as this, prices start at around £1,800. Results are expected to last 18-24 months, sometimes more. The consultation is an essential part of an aesthetic treatment – it’s so important that practitioners understand your requests, as well as your general health and lifestyle, to be able to offer the most effective results. I’d recommend having consultations with up to three different practitioners to find the right person for you. Of course, cost can be a barrier (I charge £100 per consultation), so bear this in mind. In terms of digital consultations, they really are here to stay. I’ve found that patients are less nervous as they’re in the comfort of their own homes and we can assess you just as well – perhaps easier without having to worry about face masks! To ease nerves, I share lots of educational videos on my YouTube and Instagram channels, as well as hosting ‘In The Consulting Room’ events to enlighten and empower patients to make safe and informed decisions.

B B E XP E R IE NC ES

Reviewing

The Beyond Beauty team put

iS Clinical

SkinCeuticals

Deputy editor Shannon

Marketing manager Katie

Cleanser: iS Clinical Cleansing Complex

Cleanser: SkinCeuticals Gentle Cleanser Cream

Formula: • 0.5% salix alba (willow) bark extract, a source of salicylic acid, which heals and prevents blemishes • 0.43% saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract, a source of glycolic acid, which removes the outermost layer of dead cells • 0.025% retinyl palmitate (vitamin A) which helps to boost collagen fibre production to revitalise skin • 0.04% tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), an antioxidant that prevents damage to skin caused by UV exposure

Formula: • A 3% active technology emollient-rich surfactant system which gently lifts makeup and debris • Allantoin which promotes a healthy skin barrier by increasing the water content in skin • Orange peel oil derived from the citrus fruit to invigorate the skin • Glycerin, an emollient and humectant that retains moisture – emollients work by forming a protective layer on the top of the skin that traps water, leaving the skin more hydrated

Review: I felt that my skin responded really well to this light foaming cleanser. It removed the daily dirt and makeup well and I definitely noticed that my skin appeared cleaner and softer, while it also improved the appearance of blackheads and pores. Sometimes I would double cleanse if I had been wearing makeup that day. After using this product, I noticed that my daily vitamin C serum and moisturiser could really soak in and do their jobs better!

Review: The application process with this cleanser is beautiful and it easily glides on your face. I’m used to using a gel or foam cleanser over one with a cream consistency, so it was quite nice to have something different! I felt like my skin was moisturised well when I used this, but I didn’t see many visible differences in my skin. I think this is due to my skin type as I probably needed something a bit stronger, but I would 100% recommend the product to anyone with less problematic skin!

Bonus: This cleanser comes in a travel size, which I think is great as it means it’s easy to take with you wherever you go and your skin doesn’t have to suffer a break in routine.

Bonus: The smell of the cleanser was gorgeous! I’d love to have this smell replicated in a body moisturiser because it’s so nice.

Where to buy: You can find the cleanser on the iS Clinical website: www.isclinical.co.uk

Where to buy: You can find the cleanser on the SkinCeuticals website: www.skinceuticals.co.uk

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B B E XP E R IE NC ES

Results

cleansers to the test

skinbetter science

AlumierMD

Journalist Holly

Business development manager Jude

Cleanser: skinbetter science Oxygen Infusion Wash

Cleanser: AlumierMD Purifying Gel Cleanser

Formula: • Glycolic, lactic, salicylic and malic acid for a light alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliation. AHAs help peel away the surface of your skin so that new skin cells may take their place • Oxygenating ingredients methyl perfluorobutyl ether and methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether, which release oxygen gas into the skin – producing collagen and brightening its appearance

Formula: • Flavonoids, an antioxidant extracted from chamomile plants, is designed to protect the skin from external aggressors • Opuntia ficus-indica, which calms irritated skin and hydrates due to its high content of water-binding compounds • Aloe, which contains amino acids, vitamins and minerals. Amino acids can help build collagen for plumpness and increase water retention to help hydration

Review: I found that this cleanser gave my skin a deep cleanse and was good for removing any remaining dirt or makeup, leaving the skin feeling very smooth. It also left my skin looking noticeably brighter, which I’ve been looking for in a cleansing product for some time! However, it wasn’t a hydrating cleanser and I had to ensure I used serums and moisturisers after so that my skin didn’t feel too dry. I would recommend this product for people with combination or oily skin types.

Review: I’m a very fussy customer when it comes to skincare, so I was a bit nervous about trying a new product. However, I am so pleased with the results! The gel formed a really lovely silky foam when washing with water leaving my skin feeling refreshed, smooth and clear. There was only a very slight scent which is my preference due to my skin sensitivity. I feel that my skin looks noticeably brighter and healthier, as well as more hydrated.

Bonus: A little bit of this product goes a long way, so there's no risk of running out of it quickly! Where to buy: Products from skinbetter science are only available for purchase through practitioners. To find the clinic that stocks this cleanser nearest to you, visit www.aestheticsource.com

Bonus: The company provides all customers with a product consultation, so that you can receive the perfect product match! Where to buy: Products from AlumierMD are only available for purchase after a consultation with a practitioner. To find the one closest to you, visit the AlumierMD website: www.alumiermd.co.uk

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REAL-LIFE STORY

Experiencing Lip Fillers What’s it like to have lip fillers as a 40 year old for the first time? Beyond Beauty speaks to a patient and her practitioner to find out!

Jennifer is a woman who, at 43, had started noticing the signs of ageing. She was bothered by some of these changes and wanted to make subtle improvements to her appearance. “I know I am getting older with every birthday, but over the past couple of years, I have really started noticing changes to my face that I wasn’t expecting!” Jennifer shares. Specifically, she’s referring to her skin quality as well as the region around her mouth – known as the perioral area. “You see youthful celebrities who always just say their ageing secret is to drink loads of water, or perhaps give up dairy or sugar, or take supplements. I tried all of that and the changes continued! I was bothered by some of the small signs of ageing around my mouth such as my smile lines (clearly I smile too much!) and my skin had an uneven tone with discolouration. My main concern was that I felt my top lip was starting to disappear.” So what could be done about it? Jennifer and her aesthetic practitioner Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder and medical director of the award-winning Adonia Medical Clinic, tell all…

Finding the perfect practitioner Jennifer knew she wanted to do something about her ‘disappearing’ top lip but had no idea if anything could be done to help, or even where to start. She explains, “When I had more time due to the pandemic lockdowns I was able to do some research and, from what I gather, everyone is having treatments like fillers and pretending that they aren’t!” Jennifer’s research started online and on social media, where she discovered that an aesthetic practitioner might be able to help. One of her concerns about going to see a practitioner was that they wouldn’t have the expertise to treat her black skin and lips, so finding someone with experience in treating her darker skin type was a top priority. “After researching aesthetics online, I came across a website called The Black Skin Directory and found Dr Ejikeme. After

seeing her social media posts about the types of treatments she offers, looking at her website and learning about her medical qualifications, I knew she was the one!” Although in the UK virtually anyone is legally allowed to inject dermal fillers, Jennifer thought it was best to go to a medical professional. “This medical qualification was really important to me and added a layer of reassurance that they would be able to help if anything did go wrong,” she says.

An aesthetic consultation Jennifer contacted Adonia Medical Clinic and arranged a virtual consultation – these are becoming increasingly common due to the coronavirus pandemic. “This was about 30 minutes in total and involved me detailing what my issues were and an explanation of the types of treatments that might be able to help me,” she explains, adding, “I sent lots of pictures of myself, which the clinic reviewed to help Dr Ejikeme create a treatment plan, and then I had another consultation to discuss this together.”

“From what I gather, everyone is having treatments like fillers and are all pretending that they aren’t!”

The first step was a skincare regime, which Jennifer received by mail, alongside another consultation on how to use the products. The Obagi New-Derm system was recommended to Jennifer to help her hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores and to strengthen her skin. Jennifer said it was more expensive than other skincare ranges she had tried before but found it After Before to be a good investment because she did see improvements in her skin quality. “There was a lot of work involved and my skin had a bit of flaking around my mouth for a little while, but it was all fine once I got into a routine. After using this and seeing results I thought all of the high street brands I had been using previously were pretty useless,” she says. Before and after lip filler treatment. Results show improved lip projection and rejuvenation.

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REAL-LIFE STORY

After her skin quality and hyperpigmentation improved over six weeks, the next step was a dermal filler treatment. Dr Ejikeme explained to Jennifer that the lip treatment involved the insertion of a soft hyaluronic acid dermal filler product called Juvéderm Volbella. Jennifer was a good candidate for this treatment because the filler would be able to restore the lips, bring hydration, fill her very fine lip lines, correct any asymmetry, and enhance the top lining of the lip. She also emphasised this was the treatment most suited to her key concerns. Dr Ejikeme said that the results would look natural and could be expected to last eight to 12 months.

Before

hot foods for four hours, not to wear makeup or do intensive exercise and avoid touching the area for 24 hours to avoid infection.

The results

It’s important for those new to dermal filler treatment to know that the procedure can cause swelling. “My lips swelled up quite a lot – but I was told to put ice on, which helped. The After next day they were still swollen, and I initially thought I had the awful trout pout and that it looked horrible! But when I got back in touch with the clinic I was reassured that this would go down after a few days and The treatment indeed it did,” says Jennifer, joking Like many people who have that there is benefit of mandatory never had dermal fillers, Jennifer face masks at the moment for experienced some anxiety before those getting lip fillers, as no one the procedure. “I had a genuine fear can see the swelling! Before and after lip filler treatment. View shows overall of looking like a different person So what were the results like? improved hydration and definition to the border of the lips, while or having really unnatural and fake Jennifer says, “I was really pleased the added volume provides a subtle rejuvenated appearance. results. We’ve all seen the trout pout – my filler results are very, very and I didn’t want that – I was looking subtle, and I like that – I’m really for something really subtle – I just wanted to roll back the clock, happy with the end result. From the experience I have had, I so my lips looked like they did before.” Dr Ejikeme assured would absolutely consider getting lip fillers again once they wear Jennifer that she has a natural ‘less is more’ approach and that off. Of course, this would involve a continued cost so is a big there was no pressure to even have the treatment. “Dr Ejikeme consideration if I get fillers again.” also talked me through the potential complications,” explains Dr Ejikeme says lip fillers at Adonia Medical Clinic usually cost Jennifer, adding, “It’s always a bit scary to hear the things that around £450, but this varies according to the clinic and the can go wrong, but it allowed me to weigh up whether to go amount of product used. Jennifer says that although she isn’t ahead or not. I decided that I trusted her medical expertise.” yet sure if she will get fillers again, she will continue with her Jennifer was told that dermal filler injection can be a bit skincare routine. “I really found this to be a good investment uncomfortable, so to help with any pain Dr Ejikeme applied because I definitely saw gradual results in my skin quality and anaesthetic to numb the area. Dr Ejikeme used a needle to inject hyperpigmentation.” the filler so that she could add definition to Jennifer’s vermilion border (the boundary between the lip and skin), as well as a blunt Advice to others thinking about lip fillers needle called a cannula, so she could reduce the amount of Jennifer says she would encourage others to try lip fillers if they swelling. “When the filler was injected, it hurt a bit, but it wasn’t are wanting to improve their signs of ageing. “Lip fillers turned out unbearable because I was numbed quite well. The feeling of well for me, so I would recommend treatment! I would also tell filler going in was quite strange, but Dr Ejikeme was very gentle,” other black women that there are black medical professionals Jennifer explains. A total of 0.7ml of dermal filler was injected into out there, and those who have experience treating dark skin, the lips to achieve this result. The procedure lasted 15 minutes who understand your needs, will treat you safely and won’t make and Jennifer was advised not to eat or drink for one hour, avoid you look unnatural!”

Practitioner perspective

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WORDS: SHANNON KILGARIFF

Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, aesthetic practitioner, London IG: @dr_ifeoma_ejikeme

This case is a good example of how hyaluronic acid dermal fillers can be used to achieve beautiful, natural results that can restore ageing lips to how they once were. My treatment strategy was to first strengthen Jennifer’s skin and address her skin quality issues for six weeks using high-quality skincare, before injecting hyaluronic acid dermal filler. I have found that this approach can really enhance the overall satisfaction of my patients. I think the treatment achieved all of Jennifer’s goals and the overall result is great. She has improved her asymmetry, refreshed her lips and enhanced her skin quality.

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WELLNESS

PSYCHOLOGY

Beyond the Mirror: The Reality of BDD Could someone close to you be suffering with Body Dysmorphic Disorder? Gain an insight into understanding the complexities behind this misunderstood condition

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WELLNESS

PSYCHOLOGY

We all have insecurities. But do you know someone who is just that little bit more conscious about how they look than the average person?

erhaps your family member is constantly mesmerised by a mirror, or your close friend is excessively asking you about the shape of their nose. It’s vanity, it’s egoistical, or it’s self-obsession, you may assume. But is it? Perhaps not. Body Dysmorphic Disorder – or BDD – is a recognised mental health condition that is estimated to affect around 2% of men and women in the UK, although this is likely to be underreported. In people who present to dermatology and aesthetic clinics, the global prevalence is more like 6-15%. Many celebrities have spoken about their battle with BDD, including Twilight’s Robert Patterson, musician Lily Allen, Riverdale actor Lili Reinhart, Modern Family star Reid Ewing, and Garbage lead singer Shirley Manson. But despite this, BDD is still a very misunderstood condition. Why? Because you can’t see what they see.

What is Body Dysmorphic Disorder? “BDD is its own distinct condition that comes under the obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD) umbrella, which are mental health conditions where someone has recurring thoughts and repetitive behaviours that they cannot control,” says Dr Alia Ahmed. Dr Ahmed is a consultant dermatologist with a special interest in psychodermatology, which is a specialism that concentrates on the link between the mind and the skin. “The actual definition of BDD is that it’s a preoccupation with an imagined defect or a disproportionate concern with a perceived defect. Essentially, this is someone who has an imperfection that for them seems so severe it stops them from being able to carry out their normal daily life.” Like many other mental health conditions, the direct cause is unknown. Dr Ahmed says, “People often don’t understand why a person with BDD worries so much about such a small thing, but that’s the whole crux of the problem! The person is excessively worrying about their flaw. They might have two spots on their face for example, which seem absolutely life-ruining to them. To someone else, they don’t seem like a big deal.” Dr Ahmed adds that it’s the preoccupation with their flaw that can lead to individuals to change their normal daily behaviour, noting, “People with BDD are also more

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likely to be depressed, socially phobic and have eating disorders or substance misuse. As BDD is a form of OCD, individuals may also suffer from other tendencies such as excessive hand washing, skin picking or hair pulling.” Those with BDD are more likely to seek cosmetic procedures in attempts to ‘fix’ their perceived issue, Dr Ahmed says. But such procedures are highly unlikely to help, and aesthetic practitioners are advised to screen patients for BDD and conduct a thorough medical history before treatment. Dr Ahmed adds that patients with BDD also have a higher prevalence of suicide modality, illustrating the seriousness of the condition.

How do you know if someone has Body Dysmorphic Disorder? It can sometimes be difficult to tell if someone has BDD and often people put it down to low self-esteem or poor confidence. “Repetitive behaviour is an indication that someone might be suffering with BDD; for example, excessive grooming, spending extremely large amounts of time applying makeup, skin picking, asking people questions about their appearance and constantly checking the mirror all the time. I often hear people say that their partners have had to cover all the mirrors in the house just to stop them looking into them excessively,” explains Dr Ahmed, adding, “Other things to consider are whether the person is developing signs of depression, such as low mood or not wanting to eat, engage or be socially isolated. Are they more anxious and tearful about the way they look? Are they constantly comparing themselves to others and not going out? It’s important that if you suspect that any of your friends or family have BDD, you keep an eye on these warning signs and make the person aware that they may need to seek help.”

Supporting people with BDD Like other mental health conditions, support from friends and family can really make a difference to people suffering with BDD. Dr Ahmed says if you know someone who might be showing signs of BDD, then you should have a supportive, gentle

WELLNESS

conversation with them to encourage them to seek help from their GP. Dr Ahmed recommends saying something like, “I understand that you feel that you have this concern, but I can’t see it as much as you can. And, you might have noticed that most of the people who you tell about this problem say that it’s not very noticeable. So, do you think that there is any possibility that it’s affecting you so much now that you need to see someone to help you cope with it?” You can also seek help and guidance from your GP or get in touch with a number of charities and organisations who can help you to support your loved one. The BDD Foundation’s website has a questionnaire to help guide

PSYCHOLOGY

people with symptoms, which can help them recognise the severity of their symptoms and make them aware of how they are being impacted by the condition. The Foundation has also launched a new BDD Email Support service to help sufferers as well as those concerned about their loved one. Once the individual has seen their GP, they will likely be referred to a BDDfocused clinic for further management. Dr Ahmed says, “When I see patients, we have an open and honest conversation, so they understand the diagnosis. They might well have a skin problem that we can look to treat, but we will explain that they also need help coping with it mentally.” The evidence-based treatment options

that patients respond to includes both a medical and psychological approach, Dr Ahmed explains. “The medical approach may include treating their skin condition as well as some form of mood management such as antidepressant medication. Studies have shown that Cognitive Behavioural Therapy, which involves turning the negative thought processes into positives, is helpful to patients with BDD.” Dr Ahmed gives an example of how this works, explaining, “For someone who is feeling anxious about going outside, I might suggest they think to themselves, ‘Well actually I’m going out to see my friends, they don’t judge me or care how I look, and they support me, so there is no harm if I go out to see them’, so it’s about turning that negative thought process back into positive.” Although patients with BDD can benefit from medical and psychological help, often it’s a condition that may affect them throughout their life. Dr Ahmed stresses the importance of never being judgmental about the disorder. “This is a genuine condition and the problems that people see with themselves are very real to them. You need to reassure them that you understand the problem and that you are there to support them.” Dr Alia Ahmed, consultant dermatologist IG: @the_psychodermatologist

Organisations offering support and advice for Body Dysmorphic Disorder WORDS: SHANNON KILGARIFF

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WELLNESS

PSYCHOLOGY

Living With Body Dysmorphic Disorder A personal story about what it’s like to live with this mental health condition

n a daily basis 36-year-old Rebecca experiences distorted views of the way she looks. It’s been a life-long battle, with large impacts on her daily life and relationships with others. Rebecca shares an insight into her very personal journey living with Body Dysmorphic Disorder…

What’s it like to live with BDD? I have a history of eating disorders and suffered with bulimia at age 13, followed by anorexia. When I was 24 I went to the doctor because I realised I was absolutely obsessed with looking at myself in the mirror, shop windows or photos and comparing myself to photoshopped models. For years I have had obsessions with my hair and hips – I think my hips look huge, distorted and don’t match the rest of my body and I feel that my hair is dirty. Some days I might think my nose or shape of my face isn’t right. I feel as though I’m deformed, and I always believe I should look better. Often, I am convinced that people are looking at me because of my perceived deformities and when at my worst, I believe people might even hurt me because of the way I look. That’s how extreme living with BDD can be. It’s a hard condition to come to terms with because when I look in the mirror, what I see feels so real and I don’t understand why other people can't see it.

How does BDD affect your life? The trouble is that you tell people and they just don’t get it. It’s very hard to relate to and even I look at other people who have it and think there is nothing wrong with them! It does impact my daily life a lot. I’ve been called vain and selfish and I am known for cancelling on people because I can’t face leaving the house if I am having a bad day, which makes me feel worse. It’s really affected me having relationships with men as it can be so hard on the guys. I’m also a recovering addict and have used alcohol and drugs as a way of dealing with my BDD so as not to think about it – sometimes it was the only way I could go out. BDD is a horrible illness to have, I wouldn’t wish it on anyone.

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WELLNESS

PSYCHOLOGY

Rebecca’s recommended books to help understand BDD

Overcoming Body Image Problems Including Body Dysmorphic Disorder by David Veale, Robe Willson & Alex Clarke

Has having BDD led you to seek cosmetic treatments? I have sought cosmetic treatments, and have actually had botulinum toxin and fillers, hair extensions and fat-dissolving injections, but the problem is, for someone with BDD, none of these treatments make a difference and you just get more disappointed. Many practitioners don’t screen for BDD and when I had treatment, I wasn’t even asked about my previous medical history. The thing is, you just assume their treatment is going to cure you. I think cosmetic treatments can be great for many people, but for those with BDD often we are just never satisfied.

The Broken Mirror: Understanding and Treating Body Dysmorphic Disorder by Katharine Phillips

Getting sober and having therapy has really helped, as well as antidepressant medication, and I am making progress. However, I also know that this is likely a lifelong disorder. I also have bipolar and depression, so I just have to get up and fight like many people living with these conditions and take everything one day at a time. Having a supportive network of great friends and family has been so important to me. There have been times where this has taken me to the point of suicide, but it’s having encouragement, understanding and good people in your life that helps get you through. The BDD Foundation has support groups which have been so unbelievably helpful. I would reassure anyone suffering that help is out there and recommend them to speak to someone about it. For those supporting others, I really urge them to try to understand the condition and encourage them to seek help. I am proud of how far I have come because I am dealing with my condition much better than I was. Many people don’t seek help because they don’t even know about the condition, and just struggle with thinking they are ugly, so the more this is publicised the better.

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INTERVIEW: SHANNON KILGARIFF

The Butterfly Girl by Racheal Baughan

How are you managing your BDD?

RECI PE

CARE FOR HAIR FROM WITHIN

Nutritionist and hair loss consultant Simone Thomas presents a special recipe that will not only get your taste buds buzzing, but hair follicles flowing!

id you know we lose around 100 hairs a day? Whilst it’s perfectly normal to shed hair as part of our natural hair cycle, many women and men suffer from thinning hair or excessive hair loss – known as alopecia. This can cause real psychological problems, including poor self-esteem and self-consciousness. Hair loss can be caused by many factors such as hormones, medical conditions, medications and genetics, as well as nutrition and vitamin deficiencies. According to nutritionist and hair loss consultant Simone Thomas, the nutrition and the foods that we put into our bodies can and will have a huge healing benefit for imbalances, illness and general wellbeing, whilst bad food choices can be what she calls ‘the devil’. Simone explains, “It is important to understand foods, the processes foods go through and why non-processed, organic foods should be consumed when possible, while always filling your plate with a variety of colours and seasonal options! As our hair is not a vital organ to help the body function, when our bodies are under attack or running on empty, it is one of the first things to be impacted in the case of an unbalanced diet, poor lifestyle choices, virus and illness.” In these cases, the hair growth cycle can be disrupted, sometimes stopping altogether, Simone says, noting, “The result can be sudden hair loss, which in the worst cases can be similar to that experienced by cancer patients after chemotherapy, with 70-100% hair loss!” To help you facilitate a good healthy start to your day, which will not only help your hair but your general wellbeing, Simone shares one of her top breakfast recipes!

Breakfast: Kefir Bircher Muesli “I love to wake up to a ready breakfast,” says Simone, noting, “That’s why Kefir Bircher Muesli is one of my favourite breakfast foods!” Bircher Muesli is essentially another name for overnight or soaked oats and was developed around 1900 by Swiss physician Maximilian Bircher-Benner for patients in hospital. “Oats soaked overnight are easier to digest and are a great source of fibre, which is essential to keep the digestive system healthy,” Simone says, adding that Bircher Muesli is simple, but super nutritious, and can be prepared the night before. “I love adding extra superfoods to the recipe (a pinch of turmeric, raw honey and blueberries) and replacing natural yoghurt with kefir for extra gut health benefits. Kefir should be on everyone’s shopping list! It is high in nutrients, probiotics and helps give our mothership – the gut – a boost in digestion

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and gut health. It’s full of live cultures and has a high volume of vitamins, calcium, B12, vitamin A, magnesium, B2 (riboflavin) and phosphorus. There are so many amazing health benefits with Kefir and it is something I make sure my two young boys and I have at least once a week." Simone explains that you can also add some almond butter for extra proteins and monounsaturated fat, which she says can help reduce the risk of cancer and lower your cholesterol levels.

RECI PE

Ingredients (serves 1)

• 40g rolled oats • 130ml kefir • 1 small apple – peeled and grated • 1tsp raw honey • 1/2tsp turmeric • Pinch of cinnamon • 20g fresh blueberries • 10g mixed nuts, chopped (Simone uses almonds and pistachios) • 10g sunflower seeds

Method

1. Place the oats, kefir, grated apple, raw honey,

turmeric and cinnamon in a small bowl and mix well. Cover and leave in the fridge overnight. 2. In the morning, top with blueberries, chopped nuts, sunflower seeds and serve. 3. Feel free to add any extra ingredients you like – a little spoon of almond butter or some extra fruits. Additional recipes that can help promote healthy hair, skin, health and wellbeing, as well as the Simone Thomas Award Winning Wellness Plans, can be found online – Simone Thomas Wellness NutriHome.

Fibre Eat plenty of fibre! It’s associated with lower risk of heart disease, stroke, type 2 diabetes, bowel issues and bowel cancer.

Protein We need protein to help all cells repair and grow. It’s key for building muscle, fat burning and appetite reduction.

Blueberries Great for one of your 5 a day! Packed with antioxidants, phytoflavinoids, potassium and vitamin C!

Share your Kefir Bircher Museli creations on Instagram and tag @beyondbeauty_mag & @SimoneThomasWellness

WORDS: SHANNON KILGARIFF

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OUR TOP PICKS Discover the books, podcasts and TV shows worth your attention

Skin Decision Skin Decision features ordinary people seeking aesthetic intervention for their insecurities. The backstories are emotional, making the end results heartwarming to see. You can marvel at their before and after images by watching the entire first season on Netflix!

Deliciously Ella Plant-based food writer Ella Woodward hosts the podcast Delicious Ways to Feel Better, discussing everything from gut health to sustainability, mental health and diets. You can also check out her mouth-watering recipes online at Deliciously Ella!

Look great, not done If you want to learn the basics of skincare and cosmetic treatments, Look great, not done! is perfect for telling you how to take care of your face! Written by dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams, you’ll find out how to look your very best, whatever your age. You can buy the book on Amazon for £8.50!

[Un]well There are so many trends that promise to be good for your overall wellness, but what’s myth and what’s reality? [Un]well is a Netflix series that uncovers the truth behind the wellness industry delving into essential oils, fasting, tantric sex, bee sting therapy, and more!

Yoga with Adriene If you’re struggling to keep yourself upbeat and motivated, yoga can help clear your mind of stress! Yoga with Adriene is a YouTube channel with almost 10 million subscribers that uploads monthly series for beginners and intermediates. It’s a great way for you to relax and tone up at the same time, and it’s free!

Ten Years Younger You might all remember the show 10 Years Younger which was on our screens in the early 2000s, but did you know it had a modern reboot? 10 Years Younger in 10 Days follows the stories of people who have forgotten what it is like to feel good about themselves until they are given a lifechanging transformation by aesthetic practitioners. If you missed it the first time, you can catch the new series on Channel 5 every Thursday at 9pm!

YOUR TOP PICKS If you know of any good shows, podcasts or books that you think we really need to try, send your review to the Beyond Beauty team at hello@beyondbeautylive.com

WORDS: HOLLY CARVER

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PARTN E RS H I P

Boost Your Collagen in 30 Minutes!

The sought-after collagen stimulating treatment that uses two effective technologies in one Did you know that from your 20s your body produces 1-2% less collagen every year? It’s also worse for women, who will shockingly lose 30% of their collagen in the first five years of the menopause! As collagen is the scaffolding that holds our skin in place, losing it is one of the big reasons we begin to look older and start to display fine lines and wrinkles across the face and body. These may seem like disappointing facts, but the good news is, for those who would like to improve their signs of ageing, companies are continuously developing new technology like radiofrequency microneedling. This treatment can help not just ageing, but a whole range of skin concerns like acne, scars, loose skin and more!

receiving treatment. A qualified practitioner will be able to inform you of the risks involved, pre-and postoperative care, and any other relevant information. The procedure only takes 25-35 minutes, depending on the treatment area, and because the technology is encouraging your own body to create collagen, your skin will improve over the following months. Results will usually be seen after 12 weeks.

CHOOSING A PROVIDER HOW DOES RADIOFREQUENCY MICRONEEDLING STIMULATE COLLAGEN? Radiofrequency microneedling is a treatment that combines two well-known and successful rejuvenation technologies into one system – bringing you the remarkable benefits of both. Microneedling is sometimes referred to as ‘collagen induction therapy’ and involves pricking the skin with tiny, sterilised needles to create microchannels and essentially cause an injury to the area. The skin responds to the presence of these tiny micro ‘wounds’ with an inflammatory reaction, stimulating the body’s natural healing powers, which results in increased collagen and elastin production and cell turnover – all good for a youthful look. This treatment can achieve exceptional results, but to go one step further radiofrequency energy (a fluctuating electrical current) is added. This utilises the physical action of microneedling and also carefully delivers heat energy to target different depths of the skin. The heat or ‘thermal stimulation’ creates a rejuvenation and tightening effect to the skin’s appearance, softening lines and wrinkles, and allowing the skin to become more resilient.

There are many different devices available, so it’s important to choose a practitioner who uses the best technology that’s backed by science. The newest device that’s just launching in Europe is the Potenza. Created by one of the industry leaders in energy-based aesthetic technology, Cynosure, this radiofrequency microneedling technology can help a whole range of skin and body cosmetic and dermatologic concerns and can even be used to improve active acne. To find your nearest Potenza provider, search Cynosure UK online.

Before

After

HOW CAN IT BENEFIT YOU? This two-in-one treatment will kickstart your body into regenerating and healing itself, producing natural and rejuvenating results. Radiofrequency microneedling is a popular intervention to thicken the skin, reduce early signs of ageing, improve fine lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores, tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of blemishes and textural irregularities. It can also repair the skin and treat active acne, acne scars and stretch marks. The treatment can be used on all skin colours and is particularly good for treating acne scarring on darker skin types, which can be difficult to treat with other devices such as lasers. It is a non-surgical and minimally-invasive procedure, meaning that it does not have the risks associated with cosmetic surgery. Potential side effects that could occur include temporary redness, tingling, and a burning sensation while

Before and after three treatments of the Potenza microneedling radiofrequency device. Patient treated by Dr D.J. Yoon.

Patients can expect to pay from £500 for one treatment, depending on the clinic. Individual results may vary and are not guaranteed. To find your nearest Potenza provider scan the QR code.

LOVED BY PRACTITIONERS “The combination of radiofrequency and microneedling is an exceptional treatment for many patients, offering fast and effective rejuvenation options without undergoing more invasive treatment like surgery. If choosing to embark on this kind of treatment, see a practitioner who uses a reputable device such as the Potenza by Cynosure to help you reach your cosmetic goals and achieve outstanding results.” Aesthetic practitioner Dr Benji Dhillon, Define Clinic Beaconsfield, IG: @defineclinic

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This advertorial was reviewed and funded by Cynosure

WORDS: SHANNON KILGARIFF

REAL-LIFE STORY

LIFE CHANGING SURGERY How breast reduction has had a positive impact on one woman’s day-to-day life

Thousands of women every year choose to reduce the size of their breasts. Although for many the decision is related to cosmetic improvement, for others like 53-year-old Pamela, it's about more than the aesthetic. As she tells it, breast reduction can be a life-changing procedure, greatly impacting a woman’s quality of life.

Bursting the bubble of big busts

Ever since she was a teenager, Pamela has been big busted. After nursing two children, years of carrying the weight of 34GG breasts and going through the menopause, Pamela’s severe back pain and discomfort was getting too much. “My boobs were big and always in the way. After working on my feet all day as an aesthetician at my clinic Mortar & Milk, they were causing me so much back pain! The size often fluctuated; when I was pregnant and breast feeding, they were just gigantean – they were like melons! I would have done something about it earlier, but I was always a bit too scared for surgery.” The tipping point for Pamela was the menopause. “This took me over the edge because they just kept growing and growing. People don’t talk about this, but I was told at a breast exam that it’s common for breasts to change and increase during the menopause.” According to one study of 1,130 postmenopausal women, about one in five experienced an increase in breast size after menopause. Declining oestrogen levels caused by the menopause can also make breast tissue less elastic and they can become fattier, which may lead to sagging and shape changes. “My boobs were getting so big that I was in pain in the night and would have to readjust them to sleep! It would really impact my day-to-day life as well,” Pamela says, adding that she believes her breasts were impacting her ability to breath. “I suffer from asthma and, although I was on medication, I was having daily asthma attacks. After reading online that there are reports that breast reduction surgery can help improve breathing, I thought it might also be able to help improve my asthma,” she explains.

thought that alleviating my back pain was enough to have the procedure.” Mr Cavale explained the procedure and, importantly, the side effects in detail, before showing Pamela an animation to explain how it would work. He also went through Pamela’s medical history and, following this, said Pamela was a good candidate for breast reduction surgery.

The positive procedure

Several months later, Pamela arrived at the Cadogan Clinic for the surgery. She had already filled out a comprehensive questionnaire about her medical history and mental health, had a recent mammogram, and had a negative coronavirus test. She was given clear information about the surgery again and got changed into operating clothes – a gown, compression socks and special underwear. “The day was all a bit of a blur,” she recalls, “I remember the anaesthetist was very funny and kind, and explained the procedure in detail again. He asked me if I had any fears for the surgery, and I did say I was afraid of waking up while being operated on! He said it can happen, but it had never happened in one of his surgeries, which was very reassuring.” Pamela then spoke to Mr Cavale, who went through everything again and marked up her breasts, before she went into the operating theatre and got onto the bed. She chuckles, “He asked me what my favourite cocktail was, and I said I normally drink red wine, but I do like an old fashioned. Everyone joked saying old fashions are great and I don’t remember a single thing after that!” While Pamela was under general anaesthetic, Mr Cavale proceeded to create an incision and remove the required skin and breast tissue. If you think of the breast as being a pudding with a cherry on top, Mr Cavale took a slice of the pudding and folded it back together to create a smaller cake. It’s important Mr Cavale kept the cherry (the nipple) connected to the ‘plate’ to ensure it stayed in the middle and was kept alive by the blood supply. A total of 943g of tissue was removed, which is typical for a medium breast reduction, according to Mr Cavale, and Pamela was sewn up with dissolvable stitches.

A careful consultation

After researching breast surgeons through conversations with friends and looking at reviews from websites such as RealSelf and Trustpilot, Pamela found consultant plastic, reconstructive and cosmetic surgeon Mr Naveen Cavale. “I contacted the Cadogan Clinic in London and when I met Mr Cavale, I knew straight away that he was the practitioner for me. I remember he was wearing tie dye Crocs with his name written on the toes and I just thought this man is good enough that he doesn’t need to look cool! He was also so reassuring and made me feel really comfortable, so that was it!” In the 45-minute consultation, Pamela outlined all of her concerns, including her asthma. “I spoke a lot about my asthma, and Mr Cavale was very careful to make it clear to me that he couldn’t promise that breast reduction was going to make it better but that it should help my back pain. I understood this and 62

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How Pamela's breasts were marked up prior to surgery.

REAL-LIFE STORY

“I’ve never once thought that I shouldn’t do this; I was ecstatic from the moment I woke up” The procedure took around three hours. “When I woke up, I was wearing a compression bra and in a bit of pain,” Pamela says, “I felt like I was burning, but it was manageable, and I was given some pain relief. I was taken to the recovery bay where I had lunch and the staff called my husband to reassure him everything had gone well. Four hours later he took me home.” Pamela was given a recovery pack that included aftercare instructions, antibiotics for five days, and pain relief medication, which she used for 36 hours and replaced with paracetamol for six days after that. It was recommended that she take two weeks off work, with limited exertion, sleep on her back and wear compression bras. “I ordered a bunch of MACOM compression bras, which the Cadogan Clinic recommended, and these were fantastic.” Pamela went back to the Cadogan Clinic after a week for a check-up, where her healing was assessed, and she was shown how to change her bandages. She returned six weeks later so Mr Cavale could assess the results.

Outstanding outcomes

Today, Pamela is wearing a 32C bralette, and struggles to find the words to describe how she feels after the procedure. “I am just ecstatic! I went from having pain in between

Before

After

Before

After

Before and after breast reduction surgery.

my shoulders 24 hours a day to now only getting it towards the end of a long week of working. As I had hoped, my asthma is massively better; it’s certainly not cured, but I am just way less reactive.” Pamela is also happy from a cosmetic point of view. “The fact that my boobs are more in proportion to the rest of my body has really brought joy to my life. And I can wear a bralette which is just awesome! I’m never going back to a wired bra!” She adds that she has been using Exuviance Ultra Restorative Cream and Clinisept+ to help with healing and scar prevention. When asked if she has any regrets, Pamela says, “By the time I had my surgery I just wanted the boobs gone. I’ve never once thought that I shouldn’t do this; I was ecstatic from the moment I woke up.” She laughs that she has since shown her before and after pictures to many women and that she can’t recommend the treatment enough. “If anyone has concerns with the size of their boobs, then I always say don’t blink. It’s an expensive procedure, and I had to save for it, but it was totally worth it because it has completely changed my life!”

Practitioner perspective

was no guarantee it would improve her asthma. Asthma is made worse by exertion, so if you are overweight or carrying a lot of weight on your chest, your asthma can be worse. If you lose this weight it can get better as you are needing to exert less, so it makes sense that Pamela saw some improvement, which was a great outcome for her. Patients need to be aware that these days, it’s really difficult to get a breast reduction on the NHS. I expect that due to the pandemic it’s unfortunately going to become virtually impossible and will be pushed right to the back of the queue. In private practice, patients can expect to pay around the £7-8,000 for a breast reduction procedure.

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WORDS: SHANNON KILGARIFF

Mr Naveen Cavale, consultant plastic, reconstructive and cosmetic surgeon, as well as UK national secretary for the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, London IG: @realplastics

As well as having no serious medical problems that would cause Pamela to be unsuitable for the procedure, she was a good candidate for breast reduction because she really understood the outcomes. Pamela was accepting of the scarring, as well as the risks, and I believed she was having the operation for the right reasons. This is not so much a cosmetic procedure, but one to help women with underlying issues such as back and shoulder pain and, because of this, most women are absolutely delighted with the results. It was crucial Pamela understood that although the procedure would improve her back problems, there

PARTN E RS H I P

The Future of Aesthetics

Francesca White is the Health & Beauty Editor-at-Large at Tatler and its renowned Beauty & Cosmetic Surgery Guide. Here she talks top treatments and the value of open communication... The question that I get asked most, as a beauty editor, might surprise you. It’s not who does the best botulinum toxin (though that does come up frequently). It’s not the cleanser I swear by (although Dr Levy’s 3Deep Cleanser has permanent residency in my bathroom cabinet). No, what people really want to know when they’re sat next to you at a dinner party, or tuning into an Instagram Live, is which treatment – out of the seemingly hundreds that journalists are fortunate enough to try – lives up to the hype. What machine have you tested that is really, truly, worth the investment, they’ll ask? What is the one thing that you would go back to, time and time again? My answer now – after a year of lockdowns, virus-anxiety and emotional turbulence – is very different to how I might previously have replied. Once upon a time, I would have told you about the transformative power of a HydraFacial (try Atelier, in Surrey, where they up the ante with skin-firming radiofrequency and LED). Or announced that the only non-invasive procedure to shift stubborn love handles is an icy blitz of CoolSculpting (Magda, at the Cosmetic Skin Clinic in Buckinghamshire, is your girl). But today we need treatments that not only make us look better, but that also help us to feel better. Our mental health has taken a huge toll in the last 12 months and modern procedures need to address that.

We need treatments that not only make us look better, but that also help us to feel better

For me, a holistic approach – in other words, a treatment that delivers on both a physical as well as an emotional level – is the way forward. It’s just one of the reasons I set up The Beauty Triangle: a series of monthly events and webinars, designed to get people talking about their health and wellbeing. No topic is off-limits – from how to manage hair loss, to how to check your breasts or even prepare for a surgical procedure – but most importantly, the discussion is always three-sided. Our panels shine a spotlight on a variety of practitioners, including dermatologists, cosmetic doctors and surgeons, as well as nutritionists, psychologists or bio-identical hormone experts – giving our audiences access to the most trusted, expert advice. If you miss a conversation, you can catch them on YouTube or tune into our podcasts. The aesthetics industry is taking a similar steer – and the newest launches are a blend of hi-tech and a human touch. Consider muscle-stimulating devices, such as EMSculpt, which deploy a HIFEM (high intensity focused electromagnetic) ‘workout’ (explained in more detail on p.20). Developed by physiotherapists to rehabilitate injured bodies, HIFEM is now being used to hone the core, glutes, triceps and quads (visit Dr Galyna Selezneva at the Dr Rita Rakus clinic in Knightsbridge for the ultimate chiselling), as well as to repair diastasis recti (partial or complete separation of your stomach muscles, usually experienced post-pregnancy) and lessen back pain. The same technology emitted via the discreet EMSella ‘chair’ can strengthen the pelvic floor and even improve urinary incontinence (a relief for menopausal or post-natal patients). Hair is also big business, with a raft of new treatments designed to restore thickness – and self-confidence. Recently launched is HydraFacial Keravive, a deep-cleaning ‘scalp facial’ which soothes irritation while promoting new baby hairs (head to S-Thetics in Beaconsfield, where they track follicular activity with futuristic imaging systems). Meanwhile, over on Harley Street, Dr Anna-Marie Olsen tackles stress64

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PARTN E RS H I P

set to roll it out). For the latter, CoolSculpting Elite (a souped-up version of the original fat-freezing device, with newly-precise applicators) promises to do away with wobble in record speed (data suggests that patients might see results in as little as four weeks, according to Dr Selena Langdon of Berkshire Aesthetics – one of the first in the UK to use it). Of course, most practitioners will tell you that the best results come from a combination approach. After all, rejuvenating at each anatomical layer – bone, muscle, fat, skin – is key to achieving a long-lasting outcome. But the final layer, which no one sees, is the emotional. That’s what today’s treatments need to deliver – and talking about it is the first step.

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related hair loss by microneedling a cocktail of stem cells and active ingredients directly to the scalp. (Add in her at-home hair loss lotion and bespoke supplementation, for transformative results).

Scan the code for all the details! W: www.thebeautytriangle.com IG: @the_beauty_triangle

Though sometimes it’s the small things that cause the greatest anxiety. A double chin that makes Zoom calls distressing; unwanted bulges (such as bra rolls, or flabby knees) that add undue stress to clothes shopping. For the former, the eagerly-awaited launch of Belkyra – a fat-dissolving injection, designed specifically for beneath the chin – might help (23MD in Chelsea is one of the clinics

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Experts in Hyaluronic Acid Established in Geneva, Teoxane Laboratories is built upon the vision of innovation, quality and consumer safety combined with the excellence of Swiss science to develop high performance, avant-garde HA based dermal fillers. As one of the recognised market leaders in aesthetic medicine, we have extended the benefits of our unique and patented Resilient Hyaluronic Acid (RHA®), into a complete skincare regimen. Our premium cosmeceutical line helps not only to maintain the results of aesthetic procedures, but also provides a complete at-home skincare regime to help keep the skin healthy, hydrated and revitalised, using the same RHA technology as we use in our injectable products! www.teoxaneshop.co.uk This advertorial was written and funded by Teoxane UK

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SA F ETY F I RST

Reputable Organisations The companies and associations that put safety first in aesthetics The non-surgical aesthetics industry is completely unregulated in the UK. Virtually anyone is allowed to perform cosmetic treatments such as dermal fillers and toxin after just a short day of training, which can put you at risk. While it’s not compulsory for aesthetic practitioners to be a member of any of the groups detailed below, knowing they are can give you some reassurance that the practitioner you have chosen to have treatment with is working to high standards and aims to put your safety first. A number of the groups have advised the Government on regulation and are spear-heading campaigns to improve aesthetic practice.

A note from us…

There are many organisations that do great work to support the aesthetic specialty, while others may have questionable motives. All those listed here have been selected by the Beyond Beauty team following long-standing trusted relationships. Of course, Beyond Beauty and the organisations mentioned cannot guarantee that members associated with them comply with all standards set, so those seeking aesthetic treatment are always encouraged to do their own thorough research before choosing a practitioner. We would always encourage you to undergo injectable aesthetic treatment with a medical practitioner who has appropriate insurance cover. To ensure your practitioner is medicallyqualified and does not have any restrictions on their practice, you should look them up on the relevant regulatory body register. These include the General Medical Council, the Nursing and Midwifery Council, the General Dental Council and the General Pharmaceutical Council.

FOR MORE INFO ON EACH GROUP VISIT WWW.BEYONDBEAUTYLIVE.COM

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Enhancing the Jawline Fat Freezing Pregnancy & Skincare Superfoods to Manage Anxiety Treatments for Skin Discolouration Menopause & Antidepressants Tackling Male Hair Loss 10 Things to Know Before a Boob Job Feminism & Aesthetics

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Beauty Uncovered - Spring Issue - 2021

Articles inside

How radiofrequency can address your concerns around the eyes Boost Your Collagen in 30 Minutes! A two-in-one treatment to tackle skin sagging and more

One person’s experience of a virtual consultation Experiencing Lip Fillers

A breakfast to help you care for your hair Our Top Picks

Eye anatomy and treatment approaches Recipe

Natural-looking results for a 40-year-old woman Beyond The Mirror: The Reality of BDD

Appropriately prevent sun damage and ageing Reviewing Results The BB team puts cleansers to the test

A Full Face Approach

Products of the Year

There’s disinfectant that’s great for your skin? Caring for Male Skin

Boosting confidence with injectable treatments Digital Discussions

Defining Dermal Fillers

Did You Know

The lowdown on the benefits and risks Muscle Stimulation

Tone your body with this new technology Turn Back the Clock on Eye Ageing