Final document

Mathar Kaam TAMBAT ALI, PUNE

FASHION COMMUNICATION 2014-2018

title

MATHAR KAAM (BEATING OF COPPER)

PUNE, MAHARASHTRA FASHION COMMUNICATION NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

YEAR OF COMPILATION- 2016

NAME OF STUDENTS: 1. Adyasha Rath 2. Aishwarya Chopra 3. Arpit Katiyar 4. Bhavana Sawant 5. Kadambari Goyal 6. Kriti Agarwal 7. Saiyam Marwah CENTRE NAME: Mumbai FACULTY GUIDE/MENTOR: Susmita Das

Copyright @National Institute of Fashion Technology, 2016 All rights reserved: no part of this book may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system or transmitted in any form by means of electronic, mechanical, photo copying, recording or otherwise without prior permission from National Institute of Fashion Technology, except by a review/ reader who woshes to quote brief passage in connection with a paper review/essay written for inclusion in a periodical, newspaper or broadcast.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS:

1. Acknowledgement 2. Preface 3. About Pune 4. Crafts of Pune 5. About copper and brass 6. Copperware in Pune 7. Tools and Techniques 8. The craftsmen 9. Problems faced 10. Our views 11. Bibliography

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We, as a team would like to thank our college, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai for giving us the opportunity to explore this beautiful craft cluster of copper beating in Tambat Ali, Pune.

We would also like to express our gratitude to our Director, Mrs. Nilima Rani Singh, our mentor Mrs. Susmita Das and other faculty mentors for lending support and guiding us throughout our journey on field and while documenting. Our project wouldn’t have been possible without the cooperation of the craftsmen of Tambat Ali and the valuable information they provided.

PREFACE Everything runs its course, and indeed it is true; Be it metal ores, or the craftsmen who are so few.

Tambat Ali, is an age old settlement in the winding streets of Kasba Peth in the heart of Pune. As we climbed these meandering staircases of this settlement, we witnessed magnificent sights and heard strange vibrations resonate. The settlement is a world in its own. This settlement houses 17 coppersmiths known for “mathar kaam” or the beating of copper, which has been a trademark of Puneri crafts.

However this art passed on generation-to-generation has been dwindling and the craft faces the jaws of extinction if not revived.

The craft encounters certain problems; one that since copper is a metal that corrodes easily, it poses maintenance problems. Secondly there are plenty of middlemen involved in the selling/ marketing of the product that prevents the coppersmiths from the gaining the any profit from their merchandise. Thirdly, the current generations have little to no interest in the age-old custom mainly because there isn’t enough monetary advantage.

These facts apart, copper products as a whole have suffered a popularity decline.

Our goal is to try and revive, and restore the shine to this craft and it’s products, in small and simple ways.

PUNE

PUNE There was a time when Pune was a home to those who had retired and wanted a peaceful life. Now of course Pune has grown into a vibrant metro, a hub of education, industry, information technology, entertainment, and so on. But what makes Pune still more significant is that it is a place from where you can plan several exciting trips to hill-stations, forts, and places of pilgrimage.

Pune is the 9th most populous city in India and also the 101st largest city in the world, by population.

Pune city is the administrative headquarters of Pune district and was once the center of power of the Maratha Empire established by Shivaji Maharaj.

Pune is considered the cultural capital of Maharashtra.Since the 1950s and 1960s, Pune has had a traditional old-economic base. Most of the old industries continue to grow. The city is also known for its manufacturing and automobile industries, as well as for research institutes of information technology (IT), education, management and training, which attracts migrants, students, and professionals from India, South East Asia, the Middle East, and Africa.

Pune is also one of the fastest growing cities in the Asia-Pacific region Pune is also be considered as a halting place for the Ashtavinayaka tour, the Jyotirlingas like Bhimashankar, numerous forts around Pune, sanctuaries, traditional Maharashtrian food and much more.

ACCESSIBILITY: How to reach PuneAir There are several direct flights from all major cities’ airports to Pune.

Rail There are many trains which connect Mumbai and other cities to Pune. The train journey is very convenient and goes through the scenic Khandala ghats.

Road There are State transport buses as well as private buses which ply between Pune and Mumbai.

The expressway has reduced the travel time between the two cities by approximately two hours.

The travel from other cities can be done by car or private/public buses.

maps.newkerala.com

CLIMATE: Pune experiences both hot semi-arid climate and also tropical wet and dry. It goes through three seasons- summer, monsoon and winter with average tempertures ranging from 20 to 28 degree celsius.

The month of November is referred to as Rosy Gold which can be experienced specially during diwali. We visited Pune during the June first week and were met by scorching heat and occassional drizzles. We would suggest you to carry both sunglasses and umbrellas during your visit to this beautiful city.

The climate that suits these craftsmen of Tambat Ali is anytime except the monsoons. Though the weather gets cool and pleasant it becomes diificult for them to predict the rains and hence cannot work in such an environment. The ideal time is the February onwards when its neither cold nor too hot.

LANGUAGE: Although Marathi is the main language of Pune, its cosmopolitan population speaks several other languages such as English, Hindi and Gujarati.

CULTURE AND CUISINE: Pune is said to be the cultural capital of the state of Maharashtra. It epitomizes the Marathi culture, which lays emphasis on which education, arts and crafts, music, theatre, etc. Every year, it plays host to Savai-Gandharva, a three nightlong cultural program of vocal and instrumental classical music. Pune culture reflects a blend of traditions with modernity. On one hand, you have classical shows being performed in the city, on the other, the city boasts of an amazing nightlife.

Pune is the birthplace of the great poet-saint, Tukaram. At the same time, the city claims the honor of being the home of great freedom fighters like Bal Gangadhar Tilak, Gopal Krishna Gokhale, etc. The culture of Pune is well reflected through its cuisine, people, languages, etc. Read on to get more information on the cultural heritage of Poona, India.

The city of Pune has acquired a cosmopolitan identity. People belonging to different castes, creeds, religions and economic backgrounds can be found here. With the setting up of software companies and professional institutions in Pune, the city has assumed a multi-ethnic personality.

The local cuisines of Pune retain the typical taste of coconut and garlic. At the same time, a large amount of green chilies are used, making the dishes quite spicy. The main course in the traditional food of Poona comprises of a number of food items made up of jowar and bajra. If you are planning to visit the city, do not forget to taste the sweet specialties of the city, especially chewda, bhakerwadi and pedas.

To taste the ocal food these are the places you will find the best restaurants at- Koregaon Park, J.M. Road, Fergusson College Road, Shivaji Nagar and Laxmi Road.

CRAFTS OF PUNE

The marvelous city of Pune offers various crafts. They have survived all these tough times of advancing technology, though some are on the verge of extinction. It is our duty, as design communicators, and even otherwise as citizens of India to save the crafts and let them prosper like old times.

The major crafts of Pune are:

CRAFTS OF PUNE

PUNERI SAREE

TERRACOTTA

PUNE

MUNDHWA

CANE AND BAMBOO NANA PETH HADAPSAR

COPPERWARE TAMBAT ALI SHANIWAR WADA

The craft that was assigned to our group was Copper Beating, Tambat Ali, Pune.

COPPER BRASS

Copper : Copper is a chemical element with symbol Cu (from Latin: cuprum). It is a soft, malleable and ductile metal with very high thermal and electrical conductivity. A freshly exposed surface of pure copper has a reddish-orange color. It is used as a conductor of heat and electricity, as a building material and as a constituent of various metal alloys, such as Sterling silver used in jewelry, cupronickel used to make marine hardware and coins and constantan used in strain gauges and thermocouples for temperature measurement.

Copper is found as a pure metal in nature, and this was the first source of the metal to be used by humans, ca. 8,000 BC. It is characterized by high ductility and electrical and thermal conductivity and are relatively weak.

Copper does not react with water but it does slowly react with atmospheric oxygen to form a layer of brown-black copper oxide which, unlike the rust that forms on iron in moist air, protects the underlying metal from further corrosion.

Brass : Brass is a metal alloy made of copper and zinc; the proportions of zinc and copper can be varied to create a range of brasses with varying properties. It is a substitutional alloy: atoms of the two constituents may replace each other within the same crystal structure.

Brass is used for decoration for its bright gold-like appearance; for applications where low friction is required such as locks, gears, bearings, doorknobs, ammunition casings and valves; for plumbing and electrical applications; and extensively in brass musical instruments such as horns and bells where a combination of high workability (historically with hand tools) and durability is desired. It is also used in zippers. Brass is often used in situations in which it is important that sparks not be struck, such as in fittings and tools used near flammable or explosive materials.

Brass has higher malleability than bronze or zinc. The relatively low melting point of brass and its flow characteristics make it a relatively easy material to cast. By varying the proportions of copper and zinc, the properties of the brass can be changed, allowing hard and soft brasses. Today, almost 90% of all brass alloys are recycled.

Aluminium makes brass stronger and more corrosion-resistant. Combinations of iron, aluminium, silicon and manganese make brass wear and tear resistant.

COPPERWARE

COPPERWARE IN PUNE: Copper and brass utensils are an essential part of both ceremonial rituals and daily life in Maharashtra. The most commonly used item is the lota, a vessel that is ideally suited for the traditional way of drinking water- by pouring it into the mouth without the lips touching the vessel. It is made by joining together the bowl-shaped base and the bell-shaped upper part made from a hammered sheet of copper. While crafting it, salt water is applied towards the completion of welding, just before it cools, to give it a red ting. Different textures are obtained by hammering the metal at different angles, creating a sculpted form. Using the same construction principle, a variety of utensils are crafted. The craft is diminishing because of changing lifestyles and preferences of other materials.

Tambats are part of an age old social system known as ‘Bara Balutedars’. These are craftsmen working and dealing in utensils of copper,bronze, brass, etc. Copper is known as ‘tamba’ in Marathi from which the name ‘Tambat AIi’ has evolved. The Bara Balutedars were supposed to cater to the needs of the urban society.

In the early period the system was based on barter where people would exchange goods for goods or goods for services. If someone wants to get a copper vessel then he would go to the Kasar or coppersmith and provide the old material. The Kasar would then prepare the utensil by adding any new metal if necessary as per the need of the patron. The person would take the utensil and give the Kasar a bagful of grains as remuneration. The age old system has not changed as

yet, except that the remuneration is paid in money. People go to the shop, give the old away and take the new ones. Valuable antiques and artistic artifacts of copper, brass, etc. were lost through melting.

The Tambat, previously known as Kasar (derived from ‘Kansya’ which means bronze) is considered a son of Vishwakarma (the creator of the earth and mythological architect) having also the name ‘Twashta’, whose other sons were Maitha (the carpenter), Manu (the blacksmith), Daivadnya (the goldsmith) and Patharvat (the sculptor).

The main articles which are made bv the Tambat are as follows: Traditionally, copper and brass articles made in Pune can be arranged under fourteen groups, those used in the kitchen, those used in eating and drinking, those used in storing and carrying water, articles used in serving betel, musical instruments, measures, lamps, dishes and vessels used in worship, images, peasant jewelry, toilet requisites, appliances used in the drinking hall but not for eating or drinking, miscellaneous ware and toys.

Today, only a few of the above varieties are manufactured because of lack of demand.

Copper artisans in a tiny little alleyway (Tambat Ali) tucked away in Pune by lanes, produce works of art that transcend borders and embody how art can be a unifying factor the world over. Copper smiths (tambats in Marathi) were brought to Pune during the reign of the Peshwas in the 18th century to make copper coins. Initially four or five families moved to Pune but their numbers grew and eventually the tambats made this particular patch of Pune their own.

Physically, Tambat Ali is an interconnected maze of streets and buildings with narrow spaces and wider chowks where the coppersmiths have their workshops and living quarters. Pune is the most important place for tambat craft in Maharashtra. They achieved this status initially as a direct result of Peshwa patronage and later because of the introduction of railways during the British occupation and thus the need for copper utensils through trade.

The tambats of Pune specialize in mathar kaam which is the art of beating copper to make it strong. The coppersmiths of Tambat Ali are an intrinsic part of Kasba Peth and a significant feature of Pune’s heritage tapestry.

Copper craft relies on a number of factors. The principal raw materials include copper and an alloy of copper. The traditional craft process uses manual shaping and beating. Each step has to be done by hand and it takes a long time. The beauty of the art of beating is that it can vary from piece to piece and artisan to artisan. Skill comes into play to achieve the required density of indentations as well as the size and orientation. Different tools such as chisels, hammers, clippers and tongs are used to mould and beat the metal and coerce a shape. Watching a coppersmith at work is spellbinding.

The body of work created by the tambats is substantial and today with the help of INTACH, Forbes Marshall and Rashmi Ranade, a designer and heritage conservationist fresh life has been infused in this age old art by giving the tambats modern designs to be made using the old traditions.

These patrons of the copper artisans have revamped this industry by extending help and guidance to the traditional craftsmen and created a demand for beaten copperware across the world.

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TOOLS TECHNIQUES

The artisans at Tambat Ali follow techniques as dictated by the generations before them. Most of the methods remain the same although some minute changes have occurred.

The only raw materials they use for the craft is copper or brass sheets which are generally sourced from Gujarat.The process varies from product to product. Here is the process for the traditional lota or pot: • The artisan first takes copper sheets and cuts out circles from it.(The measurements are predetermined, they hardly use a scale although they do use dividers for measurement) • These circles are then placed on a Aadi (A heavy “O” like structure made out of iron) • They are then beaten till the desired shape is achieved. The new pot today is made of three parts the earlier ones were just two parts.

• The pieces are joined together by cut and insert method. Grooves are cut out from one pieces and then beaten into place with the other piece till the desired shape is achieved.

• To make the bond stronger, Swagi (A mixture of Raal kerosene oil and copper fillings) is applied at the joint.

• The pieces are then placed on a furnace and heated till the swagi fills the joints.it is the immediately dipped into water to cool it down.

• Once the desired shape is achieved, the pot is polished on a polishing machine.

• The next step is to beat the grooves one at a time on the product. This pattern is what defines the craft and gives it its unique identity.

• On the lower half the pattern embossed is call Golmathar while on the upper half the pattern is called Chaukadi.

• To hide the joint in the middle a Kor or border is added using a Chari ka Hathoda.

• Whilst embossing the patterns the artisan sits on a Kharua and uses a special hammer called Khone.

An artisan may or may not make the basic structure himself but they all make the patterns themselves.

Kharua

Khur

Khone

Old wooden hammer and the new fibre hammer

THE CRAFTSMEN

The craftsmen of Tambat Ali were extremely approachable and generous in sharing their thoughts and views. Hence, we were able to take short interviews and have talks with them.

The language we used to converse was Marathi which was later translated into English to form the content of the following information.

We interacted with not only the craftsmen but also their children who were very affectionate. We were able to gather a lot of insight into their daily lives, routine, work process, working environment, family, problems faced and various other things.

CHANDRASHEKHAR SALVE 50 years

What are your working hours?

Approximately 11 hours per day. Works until he gets tired, around 7 pm.

What all products do you make?

Makes the Bambad, Tambe, Hande, Filter, and Lota.

Where do you source your raw material from?

From Baazar Peth in Pune.

Cost of one product/ quantity sold per day.

Depends on the demand of the clients and market.

What is the level of external help or third parties you get?

No external help is used as such.

Do you export your products? If yes, where?

The people or industries buy directly from him.

Do you use any other material other than copper?

Yes. Copper and Brass.

What other difficulties do you face?

Cannot wok during the rainy season. The copper gets oxidised and turns black. His work comes to a standstill and he becomes basically jobless.

What do you do in your free time?

Rests as much as possible. Wait until he gets work again.

Education plans for children Daughter who just passes her 12th boards. She won’t be joining the family business since she’s not interest. Her father has given her full freedom to do whatever she wishes to do.

Do you, yourself use these utensils in your kitchen?

Yes. Uses his own products.

PRAMOD WADKE 50 years

History of interviewee: 4th pass. He did not complete his education. Worked in Mumbai for a Rs.20 salary at the age of 10. Left Bombay at the age of 15 years and came to Pune to continue his father’s business of making Copper Bambad.

What are your working hours?

Approximately 11 hours per day. Starts at 8:30 am and works until he gets tired, around 7 pm.

What all products do you make? What all tools are used?

Makes only the Bambad. The tools used are hathoda, dumukhli, mogri, falna, sawan.

Where do you source your raw material from?

From Gujarat.

Cost of one product/ quantity sold per day.

Depends on the demand of the clients.

What is the level of external help or third parties you get?

No external help is used as such except a rickshaw driver for transportation.

Do you export your products? If yes, where?

The people or industries buy directly from him. His export is short distance. All his products are made to order.

Do you use any other material other than copper?

No. Only copper is used.

What other difficulties do you face?

No help. Less orders.

What do you do in your free time?

Rests as much as possible. Works as a part time caretaker at Bharati Vidyapeetha College girl’s hostel in Pune.

Education plans for children Did not marry and has no children.

Do you, yourself use these utensils in your kitchen?

Yes. Uses his own products.

SACHIN KOSAMBAR 48 years

History of interviewee: He completed his 10th in 1984. Graduate. Completed his B.com and then continued to study in law school for one year (LLB). This handicraft has been passed down as a family business to him by his father. His father has been running the business for over 60 years. His grandfather had a small shop in Tulsibagh. His father and uncle continue the business and have taken it forward.

What are your working hours?

12 hours per day from morning 10 am to night 10 pm.

What all products do you make? What processes does it go through?

Mostly toys made of brass. The toy parts go through spinning, soldering, buffing, and addition of tiny part with minute detailing which is a complex process. Hence the toys are expensive. Other products include utensils such as plates, tamans, glasses sold directly to the market. These are simply made on a spinning machine and then polished, packaged and sold.

Where do you source your raw material from?

From Baazar Peth in Pune or Gulalwadi in Mumbai.

Cost of one product/ quantity sold per day.

Cost depends mainly on the material used and the amount of material used. The Bambad is sold for Rs. 300 per piece. The cheapest item is the kadai costing Rs.150 per piece.

Which is the most sold product?

The costliest and most sold product is the toy Bambad.

What is the level of external help or third parties you get?

No external help is used. He works with 6 other people, who source, and manufacture the products in the workshop itself.

Do you export your products? If yes, where?

They do not sell products beyond Pune. Transportation is not required as the products are small in size. The items are packed and transported in plastic bags or boxes.

Do you use any other material other than copper?

They use only Brass for toys since it’s more appealing to the eyes. Whereas copper gets black after oxidising if exposed to air.

What do you do in your free time?

Loves his job. Never takes a leave. His free time is his working hours itself.

Educational background B. Com graduate + 1 year of law school (LLB) Education plans for children Daughter is studying Law and is in her second year.

Son is currently in 10th grade.

Won’t be joining the copper business.

Do you, yourself use these utensils in your kitchen?

Yes. A showcase of all the products is displayed at home mostly made by his father. They are polished ever 2-3 years.

SUNIL KAMLAKAR WADKE 54 years

History of interviewee: Born and brought up in Pune. Studied B.Sc in Physics. His father had come to Pune from Konkan in 1950. Has been continuing his Tambat business since childhood.

What are your working hours?

9-12 hours per day from morning 10 am to night 8:30 pm What all products do you make? What all machines are used?

Jugs, Plates, Underwater lights, Industrial products such as windmill covers and solar water heater coverings. Machines used are Spinning Machine, Turning Left Machine, Driller, Buffing Machine, Kharua and Khone for hand done things.

Where do you source your raw material from?

From Gulalwadi in Mumbai.

Cost of one product/ quantity sold per day.

Cost depends on the item and ther type of material used along with the quantity used.

Jug: Rs. 1100 Small Bowl: Rs. 150 What is the level of external help or third parties you get?

No external help is used. He works with 3 other people, who source, and manufacture the products in the workshop itself.

Do you export your products? If yes, where?

The people or industries buy directly from the workshop itself. He does not export outside. All his products are made to order.

Do you use any other material other than copper?

Use of Aluminium, Copper, Iron, Brass, Silver, Gold, and MS metal which is a kind of Mild Steel.

What other difficulties do you face?

Less number of workers with huge number of orders. New generation is not interested in working in this craft segment. Hearing problems occur after the age of 50 cause agitated behaviour.

What do you do in your free time?

A social worker working for the upliftment and relocation of the copper craft at Kasba Peth. He also works towards helping artisans to register the designs of their products.

Education plans for children Daughter is in her second year.

Son is currently in 10th grade.

Won’t be joining the copper business.

Do you, yourself use these utensils in your kitchen?

Yes. Uses all products at home and has completed discarded the use of aluminium vessels.

PROBLEMS FACED

BY THE CRAFTSMEN

Although the cluster is very close-knit, they continue to face several probelms that hinder the production. Despite all this they continue to work with dedication and contribute to the craft industry of India.

The problems faced are : • The location is in the heart of the city which is always crowded with tourists visiting the Shaniwar Wada daily located right behind Kasba Peth. This has led to many respiratory problems for the craftsmen and his family due to the pollution in the area.

• Their constant efforts of relocating from Kasba Peth to Keshav Nagar, Mundva, which is in the outskirts of Pune with the help of the corporation have been very slow in procedure and paperwork is still pending. The land agreement is still in process.

• Less number of machinery is accessible to the craftsmen. Modern machinery has not been in use much due to the cost factor.

• The artisans find it very difficult to work in the cramped up space of Kasba Peth although they prefer working at home with their family around them at all times.

• They find it very difficult to work during monsoon season. The weakly built house roof keep making sound whenever it rains and the peth gets flooded with water due to logs.

Also, the copper that they use becomes black as it gets oxidised very quickly during rainy season. This causes them to remain inactive for 3-4 months, without any work.

• They find it very difficult to meet with market and industrial demands due to the shortage of working members.

• Many artisans are slowly changing their profession due to less monetary benefit leaving the craft to die.

• They do not receive full profits of their work. There is a middle man who gets most of the profits as he is the one who communicated and sells the product in the market. The poor labourer ends up getting only the meagre labour charges.

• The craft is not being adopted by the younger generation. It is not accepted as a career option by their children and friends.

OUR UNDERSTANDING

OUR VIEWS: The noise was a subtle kind of deafening and the incessant hammering could easily be the basic beat to a futuristic dance tune; and while sweat was dripping from our foreheads and our hands grew heavy with the cameras- we discovered a beautiful little world.

At first, we were awestruck. The way every craftsman so adroitly goes about his task- was like clockwork. Every dent that they made on metal, every time they curved the metal a little more, spoke of years of practice and it was fairly evident that this was a craft of the yore.

As the initial feeling of awe subsided and we began seeing things for what they actually were, we learnt some upsetting but inevitable facts. This age old craft synonymous with Pune is slowly dying. And to say that it is heartbreaking to hear that the popularity of this craft is dwindlingwould be an understatement.

These craftsmen are uncomplicated, simple, and maintain an idealistic lifestyle; they might be beating copper for a living but they certainly melted our hearts.

As we left after six days- our ears still resonated with the clang-clang-clang.

The craftsmen aren’t just dedicated and adroit; they are also exceptionally humble, supremely accomodating, and content. They have simple dreams and unwavering faith; along with a constant smile on all their faces irrespective of the many hardships life has thrown their way.

We went to Tambat Ali with the objective of documenting and popularising the crafts- which we strive to fulfil; but we returned with not just blood, but an amalgam of haemoglobin and copper flowing in our veins.

biblio

BIBLIOGRAPHY

- “Handmade In India” by M.P. Ranjan - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pune#Climate - http://www.pune109.com/culture/index.html - https://www.google.co.in/?client=safari&channel=mac_bm&gws_rd=cr&ei=bSJXV_6WBoHqvATXyqyYBQ#newwindow=1&safe=active&channel=mac_bm&q=brass