DR INKING GUIDE t o
kenny's world famous pickle martini and baby beers at kenny's upstairs
SEPTEMBER 2024 • VOLUME 24, ISSUE 9
OWNER & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER PUBLISHER
INTERIM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
ART DIRECTOR
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
DIGITAL EDITOR
DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR
EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
DIRECTORS OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
Chris Keating
Amy Hyde
Iain Shaw
Evan Sult
Haimanti Germain
Aspen Smit
Lauren Healey
Michelle Volansky
Lauren Healey
Alexa Beattie, Leah Clay-Downing, Izaiah Johnson, Zachary Linhares, Christina Musgrave, Stone Selsor, Michelle Volansky
Alisha Blackwell-Calvert, Lauren Healey, Ileana Martinez, Bill Moran, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky
Rachel Hoppman, Elizabeth Rowland
Sauce was founded by Allyson Mace in 1999.
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Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.
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PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Eat
This Bar snack perfection, thy name is edamame “hummus” from Stews Food & Liquor — and thankfully this Soulard drinking den offers a compelling cocktail list to match. A generous plate of delicately crispy, housemade wonton chips hits the table with a cup of whipped green dip so light and creamy, with addictive, umami miso flavor, that you’ll question the ubiquity of its chickpea-based namesake. A shimmering chile oil topping adds richness and spice, while a sesame seed snowcap contributes a pleasant crunch. You’ll feel right at home with the dogs on Stews’ charming Soulard patio when you inevitably lick the bowl clean.
1862 S. 10th St., St. Louis, stewsstl.com
3 new places to try this month
opposite page: brownies at rated cafe; this page, clockwise from left: french toast and crispy sticky rice at rated cafe; eat today on south grand boulevard
EAT TODAY
Chef-owner Juwan Rice has created this daytime cafe concept in the same downtown space as his dinneronly Rated Test Kitchen. Here, Rice scales back the intricacies of his evening tasting menus to present an approachable menu that still has the capacity to surprise. Each bite of the salmon wrap we tried yields varying flavor and texture, with fried rice, herb potatoes, scrambled eggs, cheese, garlic aioli and Thai chile sauce all chiming in. The crispy sticky rice is a staple of the menu, a hearty bowl of sticky jasmine rice topped with quail egg, scallion jam, crispy shallots, garlic aioli and chicken sausage. If you’re in for breakfast, you might lean towards the French toast or breakfast bagel sandwich, and there are pastries and coffees for grab-and-go convenience.
rated-cafe.com
Saddened as we were by the drawnout demise of Lulu’s Local Eatery, it’s almost a relief to see something new on the corner of South Grand Boulevard and Wyoming Street. With Eat Today, new tenants Theo and Ruth Mengistie offer up a taste of their native Ethiopia, with plentiful vegetarian options and a menu that isn’t averse to including things like quesadillas, broccoli and fries. Our tip is to look for the more Ethiopianleaning dishes: The “veggie lover” combo includes deliciously spiced, warming yellow split peas, as well as whole brown lentils, and collard greens that are packed with flavor. The roast chicken is tender and juicy, with flavor from garlic, rosemary and assorted Ethiopian spices. Be sure to order the spongy injera (the slightly sour Ethiopian flatbread made from teff flour) with your meal: It's perfect for mopping up leftover sauce.
3201 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.449.1051, eattodaynew.toast.site
BOP SHOP
Co-owners and husband-and-wife chef team Sean and Nicole Kim bring Michelin-star restaurant experience to this contemporary takeout-only concept at The Hill Food Co. The dinner-only menu is inspired by Sean Kim's Korean heritage and upbringing, with a selection of made-from-scratch bibimbap (mixed rice bowls) forming the core of the menu. The K-BBQ bowl shows off tender chargrilled bulgogi alongside a rainbow of fresh, crunchy vegetables including carrots, jalapeño, salad greens, kimchi and pickled radish, topped with a gooey fried egg, green onion and honey gochujang. We enjoyed the super-crunchy Korean fried chicken bites, which traveled well: They were still juicy and crisp when we brought them back home. We highly recommend loading up on the housemade sauces: Honey gochujang strikes an addictive sweet-spicy balance while the fire kimchi sauce packs a surprisingly hot punch. Add a side of creamy charred green onion aioli to an order of honey butter tater tots — trust us on this one.
The Hill Food Co., 2360 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 361.548.7866, kimsbopshop.com
KIM'S
First Look
The Fattened Caf
BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
The Fattened Caf finally has a home of its own. The Filipino barbecue concept from husband-and-wife team Darren Young and Charlene LopezYoung built a following at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market before expanding into consumer goods with packaged longganisa and sauces (check The Fattened Caf's website for current retail locations) in addition to a guest stint at Earthbound Beer and a location on the campus of Washington University.
Now they’re laying down roots at
a 2,100-square-foot space just off Cherokee Street. It’s a development that is long overdue for The Fattened Caf. After years of smoking meats out of rented commercial kitchens, they finally have the resources they need to expand and experiment. The back of the long, rectangular space features a retractable glass garage door that opens to the back alley home of a brand-new charcoal grill. The grill was custom-built by St. Louis-based 1904 Pits, owned by Louis Kohrs of St. Louis BBQ Store, where Darren first got his start. The grill has
the capacity to fire up an estimated 150 pounds of meat at a time.
Young and Lopez-Young live on Cherokee Street, so when they were looking at potential spots, they prioritized finding something in the neighborhood. “We live here. We started here. We’ve always wanted to be here,” Darren said. “We want to invest in our neighborhood and hope they can invest in us. This is one of the ways we can take care of our community. We’re in it for the long run.”
The front half of the dining room is a bright, airy cafe-like area. There’s a cozy balance between warm and cool colors with sandy wood floors, rattan furniture topped with soft orange pillows and green, leafy plants draped across every available surface. The crown jewel of the space is a massive painting made specially for The Fattened Caf by St. Louis-based Filipino American artist Hope Ainsworth. The vibrant scene depicts a mashup between a Filipino market and a neighborhood cookout, which is exactly the vibe Darren and Charlene are going for.
“We hesitate to use the label ‘Filipino soul food,’” Darren said. “We just try to bridge the gap between our families and cultures. So much of this food is like what I grew up eating at family gatherings – baked beans, collard greens – it’s just food I love to eat.”
Barbecue plates dominate the lunch menu. Your choice of house-smoked meat is served with pickled red cabbage, cucumber salad, and your choice of garlic or java rice (golden fried rice). The massive 12-ounce Pinoy pork steak is basted and topped with housemade barbecue sauce while Piyanggang chicken is cooked in a blend of burnt
coconut, ginger and turmeric. Vegan jackfruit adobo is fork-tender and packed with flavor, braised in a soyvinegar sauce and coconut milk with garlic, bay leaves and onions. Sides like sweet barbecue beans, herby ube potato salad, and coconut milk-braised collard greens are available. Dinner menu items will be similar, but may showcase more experimentation.
Breakfast is served throughout the week with a small coffee program from Chicago-based Filipino American roasters Veloria Coffee as well as a continued partnership with Liz’s Filipino Desserts in St. Peters. Expect to see flavorful beverage offerings like lattes with ube, coconut jam, and kalamansi with honey. On the savory side, the menu offers a variety of silogs, which are dishes of cured meat with garlic rice. There’s also a vegan eggplant omelet version. We love the ube pandesal sliders with a choice of chicken tocino, pork belly tocino or smoked spam, gooey fried egg, citrusmayo, banana ketchup, pickled papaya and cucumber on a pillowy, gorgeously purple ube pandesal bun.
3405 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0088, thefattenedcaf.com
DRINK THIS
We first fell in love with Cann when we tried their add-to-any-drink, uber-portable Roadies THC drink packs a few months ago. Their new pineapple jalapeno cannabis seltzer has us head over heels all over again, in part due to the tropical vibes radiating from every can. The highly sessionable dose of 5 milligrams of hempderived THC and 10 milligrams of CBD per can — hello, entourage effect! — means you can enjoy anywhere from one to a few beverages on a given evening. With real pineapple juice (none of that pesky “natural” flavor so common in seltzers of all varieties) and a subtle undertone of spicy jalapeno, this is the kind of lightly sweet sipper we’ve been waiting for. What better way to enjoy summer’s last stand? This is a limited-edition flavor, so get it while the gettin’s good.
drinkcann.com
stuff to do
SEPTEMBER
BY IAIN SHAW
Growing City Greens
Sept. 4 – 6 to 9 p.m., Wild Carrot, 3901 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 618.694.4688, stlcitygreens.org
Show off your green garb while supporting your local green thumbs. Local beer and wine will fill your glasses while chef David Kirkland of Turn Restaurant provides farm-to-table bites at this cocktail-style “green party” with DJ Crim Dolla Cray. Proceeds will go to expanding food access for all in the area. Tickets available online.
Schlafly Art Outside Festival
Sept. 6 – 5 to 9 p.m., Sept. 7 – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sept. 8 –11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com
Over 60 local artists working in a wide variety of mediums fill the streets with their artwork, with plenty of food and a selection of Schlafly beer that will include Kolsch in a limited edition can designed by artists with disabilities from nonprofit Artists First. Bands include Grooveliner,
Rich McDonough and the Rhythm Renegades, and Dawn Weber and the Boogaloo Crew. Artists First will be on hand to help you create your own spray-painted or tie-dyed T-shirt, and there will be tarot card readings, henna artists, live painting, glass blowing and more. Free admission.
Oktoberfest Kickoff Party
Sept. 7 – 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Old Bakery Beer Co., 400 Landmarks Blvd., Alton, 618.463.1470, oldbakerybeer.com
This all-day party kicks off Oktoberfest celebrations at Old Bakery, with specials and events running through the rest of the month. Guests can enjoy German-inspired dishes and drink from limited edition Old Bakery steins designed by pottery artist Jim Linksvayer. Test your strength and endurance by taking part in an Oktoberfest stein-holding contest on Sept. 7, 11, 18 or 25. Tickets are required to participate in the contest: Entry includes a 1-liter stein filled with the Old Bakery beer of your choice. Admission is free.
Hard-Pressed Cider Fest
Sept. 7 – noon to 4 p.m., Eckert’s Belleville Farm, 951 S. Green Mount Road, 800.745.0513, eckerts.com
Eckert’s is kicking off the fall season with more than just cider. Pick a few apples, shop handcrafted goods from artisan vendors and enjoy the live music – whatever you think is right to start the season. Participating food trucks include Bipps BBQ, Seoul Mama and Bravo Tacos, and additional food is available from Eckert’s Cider Shed. General admission includes nine 3-ounce pours of cider from a selection of over 40, while VIP tickets include early access starting 11 a.m., with 13 3-ounce cider pours. Tickets available online.
Taste of Black St. Louis
Sept. 13 to 15 – noon to 9 p.m., Soldier’s Memorial Plaza, 1315 Chestnut St., St. Louis, tasteofblackstl.com
Food trucks and vendors, including Soul Burgers, Fufu ‘n Sauce, Cafe de La’Sha and Grandma’s Creationz, are
south grand fall and music fest
just a few of the attractions across this three-day festival celebrating African American culinary heritage. A VIP pass includes exclusive tastings, two complimentary drinks, VIP tent access and more. There will also be live performances and a lineup of retail vendors. Admission is free.
Music at the Intersection
Sept. 14 & 15, Grand Center Arts District, 3526 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.0367, musicattheintersection.org
Black Pumas, Big Boi, Chaka Kahn and Trombone Shorty are just some of the headline acts from a lineup of national and local blues, jazz, soul and hip-hop artists taking over the blocks around Grand Center Arts District. The food truck lineup includes Cajun Seduction, Grace Meat + Three, Narwhal’s Crafted, Mr. Noodle and many more. Tickets available online.
Parties on the Plaza
Sept. 19 – 4:30 to 7:30 p.m., Westport Plaza, 111 W. Port
Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights, westportstl.com
Parties on the Plaza rocks the 10,000-square-foot green space in the center of Westport Plaza on the third Thursday of each month through October. This month, enjoy live music from the Well Hungarians while playing yard games and sipping cold drinks at the bar. Free admission.
Greater St. Louis Hispanic Festival
Sept. 20 & 21 – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sept. 22 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Soulard Park, Seventh and Lafayette avenues, St. Louis, 314.837.6100, hispanicfestivalstl.com
Celebrate Hispanic cuisine and culture with a variety of food vendors, beverage stations serving beer and margaritas, and traditional performances, arts and crafts and family-friendly activities.
Sauce Food Truck Friday
Sept. 20 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest
Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com
Like tough choices? Tower Grove Park offers bites and sips from local food trucks on select Fridays this summer through early fall. More than 20 of our favorite trucks will be there and, luckily, you can’t go wrong with any of them. Free admission.
The Great Forest Park Balloon Race
Balloon Glow: Sept. 20 – 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Balloon Race: Sept. 21 – 1 to 6 p.m., Emerson Central Fields, Forest Park, St. Louis, greatforestparkballoonrace.com
Feel free to bring your own picnic for this annual St. Louis tradition, but there will also be food trucks, concessions and entertainment on each day to add to the fun of Friday’s balloon glow and the main event on Saturday.
South Grand Fall and Music Fest
Sept. 21 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (vendors close at 6 p.m.), South Grand Boulevard between Arsenal and Humphrey streets,
hard-pressed cider fest
oktoberfest at old bakery beer co.
St. Louis, southgrand.org/events
Check out one of South Grand’s many fine restaurants between browsing over 70 vendors selling vintage items, handmade arts and crafts and more on the streets off of South Grand Boulevard. There’s live music in Ritz Park and free face painting and balloon art for the kids. Admission is free.
Pyromania
Sept. 21 – 2 to 10 p.m., Cedar Lake Cellars, 11008 Schreckengast Road, Wright City, 636.745.9500, pyromaniastlouis.com
Close out your summer with a bang at this ticketed twohour choreographed and musical firework experience presented by Cedar Lake Cellars. Snag a snack from one of the food trucks then grab a glass of wine from the winery. VIP tickets include an exclusive tented area, free-
flow drinks and a three-course dinner. Tickets available online.
Pere Marquette Apple Festival
Sept. 22 – 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Pere Marquette Lodge, 13653 Lodge Blvd., Grafton, 618.786.2331, pmlodge.net
Craving apples at the turn of the season? Just a hop across the river will get you to this annual festival in Grafton. Festivities will be plentiful, from apple wine tastings to apple pie walks (like a cake walk but with pies).
But it’s not just about apples: At the end of the day, you can decorate a pumpkin then race it down the hill in front of the lodge; the winner will receive a free night’s stay. Free admission.
Tower Grove Pride
Sept. 28 & 29, Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St.
Louis, 314.772.8004, towergrovepride.com
This community-centric festival celebrates St. Louis’ LGBTQIA+ communities, with a parade, performances, and a host of vendors showing up across the two days.
Farmhouse Fest
Sept. 28 – noon to 11 p.m. Mississippi Culture, 201 S. Union St., Staunton, Illinois, mississippiculturebeer.com
A day of music and beer, this event features artists including Sheafor and Simes, Monkh and the People, Beth Bombara, Emma Nobbe Band and others playing across two stages. A VIP beer garden will showcase breweries from around the region including 2nd Shift Brewing, Perennial Artisan Ales, Rockwell Beer Co., Sandy Valley Brewing Co. and more. Sneaky’s Bar & Burger Joint will be providing food alongside other vendors. Admission is free; VIP tickets are available online.
the great forest park balloon race growing city greens
Each month, the Sauce team picks out a few select events outside the food realm – but we can't help throwing in a few bonus eating and drinking recs for you.
Wednesday Night Jazz Jam
Sept. 4, 11, 18 & 25 – 6 to 9 p.m., The Dark Room at The Grandel, 3610 Grandel Square, St. Louis, 314.710.5643, thedarkroomstl.com
This weekly, family-friendly gathering is hosted by musician Bob DeBoo and features rotating guests playing both old standards and originals, followed by a jam session that is open to all. Admission is free and seating is first come, first served. Pair with … Snacks and drinks are available for purchase at The Dark Room, but make a night of it and catch the sunset across the street at the Art Bar rooftop at Angad Arts Hotel. Vibe with beautiful views, charcuterie boards and a cocktail. The Apple Blossom straddles the changing seasons with Unbroken apple vodka, lemon and a refreshing touch of herbal verbena.
Gilmore Girls Trivia
Sept. 5, 11, 19 & 25 – 7 p.m., multiple locations, Facebook: Bravo Trivia Night
The cult classic TV series has become a fall tradition for generations of pop culture superfans. Embrace summer’s end and put those trivia skills to the test over a round of espresso martinis. Local trivia producer Bravo Trivia Night is hosting weekly events all September long, alternating between Schlafly Bottleworks and Hidden Gem. Trivia is free and open
BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY STUFF TO DO
pairings
to teams of any size. Seating is first come, first served.
Pair with … There’s no shortage of great choices in and around Schlafly Bottleworks in Maplewood. At the brewery, we’ll take our trivia with a side of fries with white cheddar sauce and our first frosty pumpkin ale of the season. Hidden Gem is BYOF (bring your own food) so get some lumpia and Chef Sally’s Sisig to-go from one of our Sauce Best New Restaurants of 2023, Kain Tayo, located just down the street in the JCMidtown development.
Outlaw Music Festival
Sept. 8 – 5 p.m., Hollywood Casino Amphitheatre, 14141 Riverport Drive, Maryland Heights, 314.298.9944, hollywoodcasinoampstlouis.com
This September, you too can have your very own “I saw Bob Dylan and wow, that was … something” anecdote. The impressive lineup at Willie Nelson’s traveling annual festival is rounded out with Nelson himself and John Mellencamp. Tickets available online.
Pair with … Parking (and getting back out) is famously challenging at this St. Louis summer staple – plan ahead and snag a $15 shuttle pass from Hollywood Casino to completely bypass the bottleneck in the amphitheater parking lot. While you’re there, check off another St. Louis staple and pregame with a round of toasted ravs from Charlie Gitto’s. Their Italian chopped salad is also a must!
Balloon Glowdeo
Sept. 13 & 14 – 5 p.m., Brookdale Farms, 8004 Twin River
Road, Eureka, 636.938.1005, brookdalefarms.com
Visit farm animals, bounce around an inflatable playground, and bop to a live outdoor concert before the hot air balloons light up the night at this balloon glow and rodeo hybrid. The night is capped off with a stunning fireworks display. Tickets available online.
Pair with … While you’re in Eureka, stop by for all-day breakfast at Sarah’s on Central. We can’t resist an overthe-top bloody mary that qualifies as a meal as much as a cocktail – try the magnificent Mayor, adorned with a trio of cocktail shrimp, a Slim Jim, soft pretzels, bacon, cheese, pickled onion and okra, and finished with a salt rim.
Brat Rave
Sept. 14 – 9 p.m., The Hawthorn, 2231 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.887.0877, thehawthornstl.com
Brat Summer isn’t over just yet. Bid the dog days farewell at this dance party dedicated to Charli XCX and other party girl anthems at one of St. Louis’ slickest new event venues. Tickets available online or at the door.
Pair with … Start the party down Washington Avenue with another Sauce Best New Restaurants alum, Levels Nigerian Cuisine, and order the appropriately titled Party Jollof. This richly seasoned West African rice dish is simmered in spicy tomato sauce with scotch bonnet peppers and served with sticky sweet plantains, coleslaw or spinach, and your choice of chicken, beef or goat. Wash it down with a Lagos Island – a Long Island Iced Tea with a touch of Lagos personality. Extremely Brat behavior.
balloon glowdeo
growing city greens
Choose one of Schlafly’s many beautiful spaces to host the event of your dreams
BY KIANA FLEMING
Are you looking for the perfect venue for your next celebration? Whether it's a birthday, corporate event, wedding, rehearsal dinner, or fundraiser, Schlafly, St. Louis' original and largest independent brewery, has you covered with four locations throughout the metropolitan area.
Each Schlafly location provides a distinct atmosphere, exceptional craft beer, and customizable event packages tailored to your needs. The Bottleworks location at 7260 Southwest Ave. in Maplewood features the Crown Room, which can accommodate up to 50 guests, is equipped with low-top tables and additional seating at the bar. The East Room can host up to 62 guests for dinner and 75 for cocktails.
The Bankside event space at 920 S. Main St. in St. Charles offers two floor options, with the firstfloor seating up to 50 guests for dinner or 100 for cocktails, and the third floor accommodating up to 50 guests for dinner or cocktails. Both offer low-top tables with additional seating at the bar while the third floor offers a large center with a TV for presentations or slideshows.
The Tap Room at 2100 Locust St.
in downtown St. Louis offers two spacious banquet rooms for your event needs. The Club Room can accommodate up to 156 guests for a buffet dinner or up to 250 guests for a cocktail reception. The Hale Room, on the other hand, can host 108 guests for a buffet dinner and 200 guests for a cocktail event.
Crossing the Mississippi River, the location in Illinois at 907 Main St. in Highland is set in a former bank building and can welcome up to 100 people. Guests can enjoy drinks at the unique bar right in front of the former vault.
Schlafly’s expert events team is ready to collaborate with you to design a customized package that aligns with your event needs, from setups and floor arrangements to reasonably priced, comprehensive packages with a range of food and beverage options catered to diverse tastes and dietary requirements. You can personalize your bar selection with seasonal Schlafly's beers, premium wines, and spirits.
To begin crafting your one-of-akind experience, contact private events manager John Elafros at jelafros@schlafly.com or 314.241.2337 ext. 243.
We’ve seen some great bars
open in St. Louis over the past year, ranging from swanky dives to high-end speakeasies and a Midtown brewery. We have a beer bar that focuses on lagers, a cocktail bar that serves great burgers, an Asian fusion bar serving some of the best cocktails in Soulard, and even a lock and key shop slinging drinks every Thursday night. These are seven of the best new openings of the last 12 months.
BLUE JAY BREWING CO.
Blue Jay Brewing Co. opened in January and joined Urban Chestnut’s Midtown location, Wellspent Brewing and Schlafly Tap Room to make this part of the city a destination for beer lovers. Jason and Nicole Thompson’s lager-centric brewery carries eight beers on tap along with a small selection of wine, ciders and NA options. The beer selection includes four consistent offerings and four on rotation, with all eight brewed in-house. Their Marzen, named Therese, is highly recommended, but you can’t go wrong with anything here. When the weather is good, the shared biergarten is a perfect space for friends to gather, while Blue Jay is a convenient, three-block walk from CityPark, making the bar a perfect pregame option for soccer fans. Farm Spirit is now running the kitchen, offering smash burgers, a schnitzel sandwich, a vegetarian mushroom and Swiss melt on Union Loafers sourdough, sides like crispy potatoes with chive salsa verde, and snacks like tempura vegetables. 2710 Locust St., St. Louis, bluejaybrewing.com
GOOD COMPANY
If you frequent local cocktail bars, you’ll probably be familiar with Good Ice’s perfectly formed, perfectly clear custom ice cubes. The Good Ice team brings the same passion to this Grove cocktail bar, which offers hand-
crafted cocktails created with premium spirits, fresh juices, housemade syrups, and – naturally – good ice. The bar’s 12 house cocktails include the citrusy, well-balanced Groovy Lion, made with bourbon, orange and apricot, or the Good Pals, their take on a Manhattan. While we’re on the subject of classic cocktails, Good Company also offers a list of 10 iconic drinks that includes margaritas, Old-Fashioneds and gimlets. Good Company’s trademark rigor is extended to the kitchen: My personal favorites from the menu include the Brussels sprouts Caesar with lemon-pecorino dressing and the green chile cheeseburger. From the complimentary welcome drink and excellent service to the well-balanced cocktails and delicious food, Good Company is a valuable addition to the Grove’s offerings.
4317 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.405.8333, goodcompany-stl.com
STEWS FOOD & LIQUOR
At Stews, Nate Burrows has created a cocktail list that not only highlights classics like the Manhattan and Old-Fashioned, but also introduces in-house specialties like the lychee gimlet or the seasonal Liquid Swords (gin, shochu, honey, lemon and akvavit). Chef Brent Petty is creating food that people go out of their way to recommend to friends, like the edamame "hummus" with wonton chips or the housemade longganisa sausage served on a baguette with kimchi-bacon relish, pickled Anaheim peppers, cabbage slaw and sriracha mayo. Most importantly,
keeping front and back of house operating as one is Kristin Leahy, a.k.a. Stew. Stews recently updated and expanded their patio to make way for additional seating, but this remains a small, intimate space where the tables can fill up fast. The good news is that service is quick and any wait for a table is usually a short one – a perfect opportunity to grab a cocktail and experience the “free morale” provided by Nate and his crew.
1862 S. 10th St., St. Louis, stewsstl.com
LITTLE LAGER
Little Lager is a beer bar that, as you may have guessed, specializes in lager and lager-adjacent beers. They offer a rotating selection of beers on tap and a great variety of Pilsners, Helles and lagers in cans and bottles. Little Lager is out to prove that a foamy head on your beer is actually a good thing: Their side-pour taps allow the bartender greater control over the flow of beer and, ultimately, the ratio of foam to beer. Their pouring style favors the traditional Czech method, which creates a heavier, wetter foam cap that provides a fuller flavor to your beer. Besides beer, you can get a small handful of shots such as the Bitter Bear — a Malort-soaked gummy bear served with a shot of grapefruit soda — or the Split Ferrari, which is equal parts Fernet Branca and Campari. They even serve a nitrogen-infused shot of Malort, and a guest favorite drink is the Spaghett (a Miller High Life with Aperol, orange bitters and lemon slices). Little Lager also regularly collaborates with local breweries like Blue
Jay Brewing Co., Millpond Brewing, and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. to create its own original beers.
5848 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, littlelager.com
KENNY’S UPSTAIRS
Kenny’s Upstairs is part-dive bar, part-cocktail bar, part-lounge, all rolled up into a great neighborhood bar. The entire space feels comfortable, with pool table and booth seating throughout and a curved corner bar with red lighting to wrap it all up. The house cocktails include Kenny’s World Famous Pickle Martini, which is based on a homemade pickle recipe, and a nonalcoholic drink called Before the Dawn, made with NA amaro, lemon, hibiscus and cinnamon foam. The bar also has a full assortment of spirits for making classic cocktails along with beer and wine. Speaking of classic cocktails and beer, during the 5 to 7 p.m. happy hour, an Old-Fashioned, Manhattan or daiquiri will only set you back $5.99, while a can of Hamm's or NA Old Milwaukee is just $1.50. Amid all these delicious cocktails and great deals, however, the most popular drinks at Kenny’s Upstairs are the “baby beer” shots of Licor 43 topped with heavy whipping cream. They look like little beers served in tiny mugs, but they taste like ice cream. There is no food available here, but stop in for happy hour before venturing out to any of South Grand’s plethora of restaurants — then come back to finish the night at Kenny’s.
3131 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, kennysupstairs.com
NONE OF THE ABOVE
Reservations are recommended at this speakeasy located in the old tunnels beneath City Foundry STL, but walk-ins are available and usually result in a seat at the bar – arguably the best seat in the house. The bartenders here possess a wealth of knowledge and readily relay the stories behind the drinks, cocktail recommendations and even advice on spirits and techniques for mixing cocktails at home. Their ability also shines through in the bar’s housemade syrups and shrubs, not to mention the finely curated cocktails. The cocktail list takes the classics to another level: Their version of a New York Sour is made with clarified Earl Grey, tart cherry, black lime, yuzu and whiskey, all topped with red wine foam. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the None of the Above cocktail. This bartender’s
kenny marks at kenny's upstairs
baby beer shots at kenny's upstairs
choice cocktail is created after you answer a 10-question survey to establish your favored flavor profile. My survey resulted in a delicious cocktail made with mezcal and reposado tequila with an ancho-and-bay-leaf syrup and celery root liqueur. The menu also contains a small selection of beer, wine and NA offerings. A small snacking menu includes marinated olives, charred scallion dip and a chocolate ganache sandwich cookie. 3730 Foundry Way, St. Louis, 314.656.6682, notastl.com
CLEMENTS LOCK & SECURITY
Perhaps the most unique bar on this list, Clements Lock & Security originally opened
in 1973 as a key and lock shop. Five decades on, it specializes in everything from modern keysets and rare, hard-to-find parts for historic locks to, perhaps unexpectedly, great cocktails. In late 2023, the shop was approved for a liquor license, which means you can stop in during regular business hours and enjoy a beer while having a key made or, more importantly, after business hours on Thursday nights, when Clements transforms from key shop to neighborhood bar. This transformation makes the vintage shop feel more like a speakeasy, with the keys and locks forming part of the decor. The drink selection includes a limited variety of beer and wine along with whiskey and prebatched cocktails from Switchgrass Spirits, while entertainment ranges from DJs to live performances.
2626 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.865.2242, clementslock.com
Bill Moran is the creator behind the Instagram account @st.louis_taverns, where he anonymously reviews bars throughout the St. Louis area.
jason deem, founder of the bar at clements lock & security
Chill& Swill
some red wines are best served
by Alisha Blackwell-Calvert
Chillable reds are growing in popularity across the nation’s restaurants and wine bars. These are quaffable wines that are intentionally served at cool temperatures. They tend to be juicy and are typically produced from low-tannin grape varieties with refreshing acidity like pinot noir or gamay. While some grape growing regions of the world make chillable wine as a matter of custom (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo), some wines taste better with a little chill before serving because of their body style and flavor profile.
Temperature plays a vital role in wine service, assuring the bottle’s aromas and flavors are at an optimal level. If you serve a red wine too warm, it may seem muted and boozy, while serving a white too cold may mask the bottle’s aromatics. When it comes to reds, full-bodied wines show best at 63 to 68°F (room temperature) while light-bodied red wines show their best characteristics between 55 to 60°F (cellar temperature). Chillable reds take it a step cooler: You can treat these bottles more like a white wine, serving between 45 to 55°F depending on style.
Carafoli “L’Onesta”
Lambrusco di Sorbara NV
This is a wine of tradition from the culinary-focused region of Emilia-Romagna, Italy. Though Lambrusco can be made in white or rosé, the most celebrated styles are red and frizzante (gently sparkling) and enjoyed while young. Lambrusco can range from bone-dry to very sweet, but Carafoli masterfully balances bright acidity with the fresh fruit flavors of cranberry and Bing cherry without an excessively sugary finish. Perfect for a summer picnic, but also keep Thanksgiving Day turkey in mind.
Available at:
’Ssippi 2926 Cherokee St., St. Louis, ssippi.xyz
Videira Wine Shop & Bar 2702 Locust St. Rear, St. Louis, 314.377.9463, videirawineshopandbar.net
Domaine Cheveau 2020 “Villa Violettes” Saint-Amour
The gamay grape is the star of Beaujolais, a wine-growing region just south of the famed pinot noirs and chardonnays of Burgundy, France. Often displaying qualities like watermelon and bubblegum, gamay is the perfect candidate for a chill before service. “The Domaine Cheveau has the juicy just-ripe cherry and strawberry aromas and flavors,” says advanced sommelier Patricia Wamhoff of Akar. “It has soft tannins that make this wine a great choice for serving it with a hint of chill that enhances the fruit flavors while still preserving the medium texture that makes this a truly quaffable red wine.
Available at: Akar 7641 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.553.9914, akarstl.com
Ashes & Diamonds 2023 “Rosa No. 4”
Domestic wineries are also embracing the trend toward lighter and fresher red wines. Napa Valley-based Ashes & Diamonds nods to the classic clairet style of light red, closer to a dark rosé. Rosa No. 4 is a brilliant ruby red produced from cabernet franc with sangiovese to finish the blend. Tart cherries, strawberries and dried herbs fill the glass on this beautiful wine with a long, dry finish. This wine is perfect for enjoying with ahi tuna, salmon or steak tartare.
Available at: AO&Co. 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0991, bengelina.com/aoco
Madrina 101 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.1976, madrinastl.com
Bisson 2023 Ciliegiolo
From the stunning coasts of Portofino comes Enoteca Bisson’s deep rosato of the rare grape ciliegiolo, named after the Italian word for “cherry.” This wine is true to its variety’s namesake, with a rainbow of cherry from the color, nose and throughout the palate. “I enjoy pouring Bisson’s Ciliegiolo often with the first course [of the] meal, which tends to consist of our Ora King salmon crudo with sungold tomatoes and a tamari-ginger dressing, as well as our seasonal
vegetables” said Vicia sommelier Jenna Sommer. She’s not afraid to push the envelope, pairing a chillable red wine with heartier fare. “When selecting Ciliegiolo for a main entrée, my preferred pairing is with our ricotta gnudi pasta with smoked bacon, lobster mushrooms and aged gouda or the smoked paprika chicken,” she added.
Available at: Acero 7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.644.1790, acero-stl.com
Vicia 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com
Tenuta Montemagno 2022 “Ruber”
Grignolino d’Asti
Outdoors is the perfect atmosphere for enjoying a chillable red wine. “This is a really fun little patio wine I like somewhere between refrigerator and cellar temp, like 50°F or so,” said John Cain, wine director at Prasino in St. Charles. The grignolino grape hails from the Asti region of Piedmont, Italy. The varietal has many seeds, whose astringency poses a challenge during the winemaking process, but its strong fruity aromas and light-bodied nature make it an ideal candidate for a chill.
Available at:
Prasino 1520 S. Fifth St., Suite 110, St. Charles, 636.277.0202, prasinostcharles.com
Alisha Blackwell-Calvert is an advanced sommelier at Madrina.
KNOW YOU R AMARO
How to drink the bittersweet liqueurs St. Louis is falling in love with
STORY BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
PHOTOS
BY
CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE
The name on everybody’s lips is amaro — and if it’s not, maybe it should be. This category of herbal liqueurs can be as divisive as it is diverse. Famously bitter, with complex, often mysterious botanical flavors, the barrier to entry can feel high and confusing for new drinkers.
So what exactly is amaro? Simply put, it’s a catch-all term –amaro is Italian for “bitter” – for bittersweet Italian liqueurs that are often enjoyed after a meal as a digestif. However, the label “amaro” is also used casually to describe similar products made outside Italy. There are hundreds of different amari, each with their own unique regional flair. Amaro is traditionally made by infusing grape brandy with a mix of herbs, flowers, aromatic bark, citrus and spices. These blends are often kept intentionally mysterious and can include anything from cardamom to
elderberry flowers to artichokes. Amaro is aged, sometimes for years, after the addition of sugar syrup to sweeten the drink.
Silky and aromatically complex, amaro has become a fascination – an obsession even – with increasing numbers of American bartenders. If spritz fever took over your summer and you’re wondering what’s next, or you’ve become intrigued by the amari at your local bottle shop but wonder, “What the heck am I supposed to do with this, exactly?” we’ve got some recommendations to turn you into an amari-head in no time.
If you already like an Aperol spritz, try … Select Spritz
Select Aperitivo is commonly served in Venice with prosecco and soda water as the Original Venetian Spritz. It’s similar in style to Aperol, with a brilliant raspberry color. Both are low in alcohol, with comparable base flavors like dried orange and rhubarb, but Select offers more complex flavor from an infusion of 30 botanicals. It’s the perfect middle ground for a drinker seeking something a bit less sweet and simple than Aperol, but less harshly bitter than Campari.
If you want to keep it simple …
Contratto Aperitif on ice
Another easy transition for Aperol spritz lovers is the delicious Contratto Aperitif. It’s sweeter and smoother than most amari, with a very gentle bitterness and tons of orange blossom, rhubarb and stone fruit on the nose. If you ask amaro fans how to use your shiny new bottle, most will – perhaps annoyingly –tell you to simply drink it. But that’s exactly what you should do with Contratto Aperitif: Pour a few ounces over ice, sip and enjoy.
If you’re a whiskey sour drinker looking to get a little weird …
Cynar 70 Sour
There’s an entire category of carciofo – that’s Italian for “artichoke” – amari made with artichoke leaves, herbs and barks. Cynar is the most ubiquitous example, and Cynar 70 is a higher-proof version with heightened bitterness and notes of menthol, eucalyptus, licorice root, sage and, of course, artichoke. Order one of these bad boys at Stews Food & Liquor in Soulard and they’ll know you know your stuff. Make your own at home with 2 ounces Cynar 70, 1/4 ounce maraschino liqueur, 1 ounce fresh lemon juice and 1/4 ounce agave syrup. Add all your ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice and shake until chilled. Ambitious home bartenders can add an egg white before shaking for that dreamy, creamy cap.
an amaro cocktail being poured at salve osteria
If you’re looking to skip the booze …
Giffard Aperitif Syrup Spritz
This non-alcoholic aperitif syrup shouldn’t merely be discounted as a substitute for Campari. It’s rich, gorgeously red and sweet, with surprising savory notes evocative of pepper jelly. It drinks beautifully with club soda and a twist of orange, in a faux-groni, or just as a way to lighten up your regular cocktail routine.
If you’re ready to spice up your espresso martini …
Cocchi Dopo Teatro Espresso Martini
Espresso martinis have had us in a chokehold
for the last four years – upgrade yours with a dash of this vermouth amaro with gorgeous dark cherry flavor and a fortified red wine base. Add a twist of lemon for brightness.
If you’re on the hunt for a Chartreuse replacement …
Boomsma Cloosterbitter
Chartreuse, an herbal liqueur developed and produced by French Carthusian monks since the 18th century, has famously been in short supply since the craft cocktail boom of the 2010s sparked a wave of fresh demand. If you love a Last Word cocktail, leave those monks be and sub in Boomsma Cloosterbitter, an herbal Dutch genepy (an
absinthe-like, alpine aperitif in the amaro family) with more sweetness and anise notes than Chartreuse.
If you’re craving a post-meal treat …
J. Rieger Caffè Amaro
Kansas City’s very own J. Rieger & Co. produces this one-of-a-kind take on coffee liqueur in collaboration with KC-based coffee roasters Thou Mayest. The single-origin coffee roast they use is chosen specifically to work in tandem with its botanical flavors. Briefly aged in whiskey barrels, resulting in a rich, bittersweet flavor, it works equally well tipped into a cocktail, poured over ice cream, or sipped solo as an after-dinner palate cleanser.
You’ve done tequila and mezcal –now try sotol, charanda and bacanora
by Iain Shaw
spirit Mexican
“Wild flavor combinations, highly technical approaches, and philosophically it’s just so unique from anywhere else in the world.”
Mexico’s food and drink scene is one of the most dynamic in the world right now, with restaurateurs, chefs, bartenders and producers blending centuries of heritage with technical prowess and creativity. In this year’s edition of the “50 Best” list of North America’s best bars, four of the top 10 are in Mexico City, with the capital’s Handshake Speakeasy in the No. 1 spot. “Mexico City has very much found its voice over the past four or five years,” said Michael Fricker, owner of Grand Spirits Bottle Co. on South Grand Boulevard.
Of course, like anyone else, Mexico’s bartenders use the best spirits from around the world, but they also have a wealth of unique domestic spirits to choose from. Bartenders at places like Tlecan in Mexico City are creating drinking experiences that are infused with an understanding of the country’s cultural and agricultural heritage, using distilled spirits that are the result of proud, regionally diverse traditions going back many generations. “If I’m using this specific agave from this region, then I’m going to use flora from that region to match – or I’m going to use flora from a different region to contrast,” Fricker said. “Cultural heritage is rooted so incredibly deeply within the cocktail movement right now.”
Increasingly, St. Louis is getting a taste for the fuller spectrum of Mexican
spirits. And we’re not just talking tequila or mezcal, although the past few years have certainly seen explosive growth in sales of those leading agave-based spirits. According to data from the Distilled Spirits Council, tequila outsold American whiskey in 2023, and some analysts are predicting that this year could see tequila overtake vodka for the first time as the top-selling spirit in the United States.
Consumers have more to choose from than ever before, with a broader range of Mexican spirits coming onto the local market. For one thing, Mexican rums produced in southern states like Oaxaca and Michoacan are gaining a foothold in the local market. Charanda, a (typically) white rum made exclusively in Michoacan under denomination of origin rules, is just one example. Grand Spirits stocks several products by Uruapan Charanda, which has been producing charanda for over a century.
At Lazy Tiger and Yellowbelly, Tim
michael fricker making a cocktail at grand spirits bottle co.
Wiggins has been effusive about Mexican rums for several years. On the current Lazy Tiger menu, the Railroad Man cocktail uses charanda anejo with rye whiskey, 12-year-old Thai rum, local peach and toasted avocado leaf. The Mango Tango at Yellowbelly includes Uruapan Charanda with overproof Jamaican rum, mango puree, peach and lime. “People in St. Louis are drinking it and loving it,” Wiggins said. “They do an aged expression that’s amazing, there’s no sugar added, no color added, it’s very pure. Whiskey drinkers love it. The clear one is very tequila-esque, so tequila drinkers love it.”
Additionally, look out for spirits from the north of Mexico. “Northern Mexico has some of my favorite distilled spirits in the world,” Fricker said. After mezcal’s explosion in popularity, sotol was tipped as the next big thing for Mexican spirits in the United States. Known for its usually smoky and grassy flavors, sotol is made from the dasylirion
plant. Also known as “desert spoon," this shrub grows all over Mexico, but denomination of origin protection means sotol can only be produced in the arid northern Mexican desert states of Chihuahua, Durango and Coahuila. Sotol may not have quite reached that tipping point in terms of consumer awareness yet, but look at cocktail menus and you’ll see bartenders are using it all the time. It’s one of the bases for the Running Wild (sotol, Bruto Americano, spiced pear and lime demarara) at Kenny’s Upstairs, and we’ve seen Fionna Gemzon at None of the Above use it to great effect in cocktails like the Desert Flower.
Northern Mexico doesn’t stop at sotol, however. There’s also bacanora, a type of mezcal specific to the state of Sonora. For another regional variation of mezcal, go down to Jalisco on the west coast and you’ll find raicilla. You can find several types of bacanora and raicilla, as well as many other mezcals, sotols and
much more, amid the large selection of Mexican spirits at Mezcaleria las Chupacabras in Richmond Heights.
While Mexico’s distilled spirits heritage is worthy of respect and appreciation, don’t overlook the creative new products coming out of the country. At Planter’s House, co-owner Ted Kilgore said he’s enjoying Xila, an aperitif created by an all-female team of distillers. Produced in Mexico City using a mezcal base with flavor from roasted pineapple, ancho chile, cinnamon, pepper, clove, hibiscus and lavender, Xila stars in the Be All End All at Planter’s House alongside St. George green chile vodka, Faccia Bruto, raspberry shrub, lemon and egg white. “It’s a really cool brand, the distiller started distilling when she was a teenager,” Kilgore said.
Fricker is currently working on opening a bar, Malcriado, in Oaxaca, and his regular travels between there and St. Louis over the past few years have had
a notable influence on the direction of Grand Spirits’ cocktail program. All of the bar’s house cocktails, from the Hola Amigo to the Beach Umbrella, now feature at least one Mexican spirit. There’s also an “agave classics” section that includes a margarita and a paloma, with a twist on the Naked and Famous adding sotol to the traditional mezcalbased recipe.
Consumers are also becoming more discerning in their purchasing. “You’re seeing a lot more people get off of the Teremanas and the Casamigos and the bullshit, high-produced, high-flavored agave spirits,” Fricker said, identifying a shift instead toward more artisanal, small-scale producers. Fricker said mezcal education classes at Grand Spirits typically sell out within 12 hours, and he said the people who attend those classes come with questions that scratch beneath the surface of the subject. “I don’t hold back from going super in-depth, scientific and nerdy,” he said.
PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE
a range of mexican spirits at grand spirits bottle co.
TRUC LAM
BY ILEANA MARTINEZ
The soft jingle of a weathered bell announces your arrival at this charming Vietnamese eatery on Gravois Avenue in Tower Grove South. Truc Lam’s unassuming exterior belies the rich tapestry of history and heart contained within. For over three decades, this local treasure has been not only a cornerstone of the community, but also a testament to the indomitable spirit of its owner, Hoàng Lâm.
The restaurant’s interior is a time capsule, adorned with objects that whisper tales of 20th century Vietnam. Four vertical
panels featuring seashell mosaics of women in áo dài (traditional dress worn by Vietnamese women featuring a long tunic over pants) hang on the back wall. Mrs. Hoàng brought these artworks –more than a century old – back from a visit to her homeland. From the same trip came a painting simply titled “Two Goldfish, 1990,” which today is a splash of shimmering yellow and seaweed green against the restaurant’s wooden 1980s walls. Perched on the checkout counter, a pot-bellied stone Buddha looks out over the dining room, grinning ear to ear.
Truc Lam is more than a collection of objects. It’s a living, breathing entity, shaped by the life of the woman who created it. Mrs. Hoàng’s journey to opening a restaurant is marked by endurance and commitment to family. She fled the city of Mỹ Tho in southern Vietnam in 1980, becoming one of hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese refugees dubbed “boat people” having embarked on perilous sea journeys in the aftermath of the Vietnam War.
Upon her arrival in the United States, Mrs. Hoàng was taken in by an American
sponsor, an arrangement contingent on her being enrolled in school. However, after brief stints at Webster University and St. Louis Community College, she made the transition from study to work in order to sponsor the rest of her family’s migration to the United States. She held a variety of positions – from seamstress to lab assistant to waitress – before finding her calling in cooking for others.
Hoàng Lâm opened Truc Lam in 1992, and was soon able to afford to move her parents and siblings to St. Louis. She was
quick to enlist their support in operating the restaurant. Various family members have come and gone since, but after 32 years in business, Mrs. Hoàng has never abandoned her post as head chef. She refers to her siblings by birth order, counting them off on her fingers. “Today, it’s just me and No. 10,” said Renato, Mrs. Hoàng’s son, referring to the restaurant’s remaining staff.
From the comforting embrace of a steaming clay pot of fish to the delicate crispness of a pan-fried bánh xèo (egg crêpe), Truc Lam’s menu is a celebration of the Mekong Delta region, whose cuisine is renowned for its use of fresh seafood and herbs. Since opening, Mrs. Hoàng has prepared recipes she learned from her parents, adapting them slightly for American tastes, but ultimately retaining their essence. In fact, the starkest difference between today’s menu at Truc Lam and that of years ago is not in its flavors, but rather in its abridgement: about 100 items today, pared down from its peak at over 300.
So too has the restaurant’s customer base evolved over the years, although trending towards growth rather than shrinkage. In the early days, nearly all of Mrs. Hoàng’s customers were from St. Louis’ Vietnamese community. Today, her restaurant attracts people from all walks of life and has become a fixture of the Tower Grove South neighborhood, with many of its regulars arriving by foot.
She’s known some of them since they were children. “I first saw them when they were this small,” says Mrs. Hoàng, hovering her palm just above the floor. “And now, they’re so big! I don’t remember all their names. My sister does; she has a good brain.”
Other patrons come from much farther away, but their arrival provides Mrs. Hoàng with a sense of home. “I love talking to customers visiting from Vietnam,” said Mrs. Hoàng. “They tell me about what it’s like over there these days.”
Truc Lam, meaning “bamboo forest,” was named after the hardy, resilient plant that Mrs. Hoàng fell in love with as a child. It’s a fitting name for a restaurant that has weathered literal and figurative storms. From the challenges of running a small business to the heart-wrenching experiences of her own past, Hoàng Lâm has emerged stronger. In fact, her greatest pride is the knowledge that after working day in and day out for 32 years, she still has what it takes to steer the ship.
“Better than staying at home alone!” she said, laughing.
Surrounded by the gentle clinking of chopsticks against a bowl of pho and the aroma of nuoc mam (the umamipacked dipping sauce that is ubiquitous in Vietnamese restaurants), you can’t help but feel a sense of peace and belonging. It’s a place where time slows down, pretentiousness melts away, and humanity overcomes language barriers. And at the heart of it all is Hoàng Lâm, a woman who, like the bamboo she so admires, has bent with the wind but never broken.
Acknowledgement: The author would like to thank Thu ỵ Tr ần, whose research on Mrs. Hoàng Lâm’s life provided invaluable context for this story.
