Montana Hunting & Fishing News - April 2019

HUNTING & FISHING MONTANA

April 2019

8 RIFLE SHOOTING STANCES YOU SHOULD KNOW UNDERSTANDING BIRD COUNTS STILLWATER BASICS HOW TO FIGHT BIG FISH THINGS TO BEAR IN MIND WITH BEAR MEAT

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Let it run

Photo Courtesy Montana Angler

HOW TO

FIGHT

BIG FISH

By Montana Angler For a guided fly fishing trip call 406-522-9854 or www.montanaangler.com In Bozeman at: 435 E. Main Street

here is a natural evolution in the sport of fly fishing.

T Early in a fly fisher’s initiation to the sport, hooking and landing fish is paramount. Over time an angler slowly

begins to improve their skills and the focus often shifts from numbers to quality. Hooking and landing truly big fish often becomes a focus. Whether you are still a novice or have paid your dues for a few years-it pays to have a game plan for landing big fish once they are hooked.

Even highly experienced anglers only have a few shots at really big fish in a given season and when the moment of truth arrives you want to stack the deck in your favor. Like a great baseball hitter, even the best anglers never bat 1000.

You always need a little luck on your side to land “the big one” but there are a few tips that you can employ to up your landing percentages with big fish.

Setting the hook

Successfully landing a big fish starts with the hook set.

If your hook setting technique isn’t solid then it will be difficult to land a big fish.

When setting the hook it is important to visualize where your fly is in relation to where the fish is. In most cases, the fish will be facing upstream. Your fly will be drifting downstream with the current.

Always set the rod in the downstream direction to get the best hook placement. Photo Montana Angler When a fish strikes,

set the hook by pulling your rod tip in the downstream direction to maximize the placement of the fly. For example, if you are fishing with the current moving right to left, set the hook to the left. You want to have your rod at a low angle when you set and aggressively rip the rod down the river in a sideways motion. A downstream hook set will often place the hook in the corner of a trout’s mouth where it tends to hold firmly. If you set up stream or lift straight up the hook is more likely to set in the front of the mouth-where it often will pull out without hooking at all, or embed in a portion of the mouth where it may pull out later in the fight.

4 | Hunting & Fishing News

After a good hook set, the fish will likely react to the realization that all is not right in the world and enter fight or flight mode.

The first few second of the fight are very important as the trout is fresh and strong and can easily break the line.

Early in the fight you should err on the side of letting the fish run and avoid maximizing pressure on the fish.

Often you have some free line coiled at your feet or on the water. Lift the rod high and then tilt it at a shallow angle and prepare to react. Most of the time a big fish will run quickly down river. When a fish is running hard you need to make sure that the extra “working line” that is loose and dangling below the reel doesn’t catch around the butt of the reel, your feet, or any other obstacles. Once the trout has pulled the “extra working line” through the guides of the rod let the drag of the reel take over. After the first blistering run you can begin to apply more pressure to the trout.

You do want to keep the rod tip up pointed at a 45 degree angle or slightly less. If the rod is at too high of an angle you risk breaking it off, but if you don’t have any bend in the rod you do not allow the rod to act as a shock absorber and protect your tippet. If you’ve hooked a ‘hot’ fish, don’t get your hands too close to the reel handle, as nothing stings like a knuckle busting blast from a fast spinning reel. And you certainly don’t want that knuckle buster to end up stopping the reel and breaking off the fish. Sometimes a big fish will get in the current and move downriver quickly.

It is very difficult to bring a big fish back up through heavy current so you often need to move down the river as quickly to have a shot at landing it.

Occasionally a big fish will not run immediately after being hooked. Big brown trout are notorious for this. Many anglers make the mistake of assuming they have hooked a small fish when the trout doesn’t immediately run hard and then are caught by surprise when a big fish finally bolts. A good practice is to assume that every fish is big until you visually confirm otherwise. Sometimes a big trout will also run directly at you after being hooked - at this point you risk loosing the fish if they generate slack line which allows the fish to easily shake the hook out (we recommend pinching barbs to minimize damage to trout when released).

Be prepared to strip line aggressively when a fish runs to you (this is much faster than reeling line). Learn how to maximize your stripping technique. You can strip line much faster if you push the rod away from your body and then swing your stripping line from the reel (now at arms length in front of your body) all the way behind your body on a single strip.

This retrieves about 3-4 feet of line per strip. Make sure the line is pinched under your casting hand fingers and with each strip grab the line just below the casting hand so you do not need to “catch the line” again to pinch it. Once you have the line tight be ready to see the fish run by pinching the line somewhat loosely in your non casting hand to keep some tension on the line but still letting the fish run. Again once the fish pulls out the slack line you should fight from the reel.

(continued on page 7)

Often you need to move downriver with a big fish. Photo Montana Angler

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TILLWATER BASICS Finding The Fish

By Zach Lazzari

Mystic Outdoors

www.mysticoutdoors.com

Photo Courtesy Ryan McSparran

’ve been getting after the stillwater fishing here in Montana Ihefty lately and outside of the fact that I’ve been catching some trout, I have also had lakes completely to myself.

When the rivers are overcrowded with drift boats or simply blown out with runoff or poor conditions, stillwaters offer some incredible opportunities. Not only are their numerous lakes and reservoirs worth exploring throughout the west, the trout can grow exceptionally large and in many cases, they fight like crazy.

Part of the reason for the lack of anglers chasing fish on the many stillwaters available is the simple fact that finding fish is intimidating. Contrary to popular belief, stillwater fly fishing is not actually still. These waters are often in motion and learning to make a few simple reads can have you on excellent fishing.

READING THE LAKE Before you jump out and start casting blindly, take a read of the lake. Look for color changes that indicate drop-offs, structure like rock outcroppings and logs and weed beds. Inlets, outlets and springs are always good places to focus as well (outside of spawning seasons).

6 | Hunting & Fishing News

After taking a basic reading, focus on areas that are food rich and make a read on the currents. Structure attracts baitfish, weed beds host abundant populations of scuds, midge larvae and damsel and dragonfly nymphs and mud bottom zones have plenty of large midges and mayflies that ascend off the bottom. Playing the wind means paying attention to where the currents are driving food. In many cases, casting into the wind delivers a natural presentation as most insects will drift with the current rather than against.

FOOD SOURCES AND FLIES Lake fishing isn’t all that different than river fishing. Check the surface film and surrounding bushes for specific insects. Otherwise, chironomids are a year-round game and fishing baitfish or general leech pattern is always a good move. A bugger and a chironomid on a floating or slow sink line can produce trout just about anywhere. When you start fishing the lake, it’s a blind process unless the fish are visibly feeding on top or near the surface.

Working a bugger and chironomid against weed beds and over drop offs is a great approach to prospecting.

Alternate between low and fast retrieves and test different depths until you start picking up fish consistently. It may be a searching game in the beginning but once you find the right formula, you can repeat and get into some really consistent fishing. Big number days are not uncommon once you figure out the best approach to a specific body of water.

SUGGESTED RODS: For stillwater fly fishing situations, we’d recommend the new Mystic Outdoors JXP in the 9-foot 6-weight. This high-performance fly rod is a great fit for making long casts on lakes in windy situations.

You might also consider the Reaper X 9-foot 7-weight rod.

For the price, you won’t find a better fly rod that can handle big flies, big fish and delicate situations.

HOW TO

FIGHT

BIG FISH (continued from page 4)

For general fishing situations set the drag so that the reel won’t backlash during the startup phase. You can check your drag by pulling the line aggressively off the reel in one pull.

If the excess line on the reel forms a backlash, then the drag needs to be stronger. The perfectly set drag won’t backlash.

When you see an expensive reel in the fly shop the cost is generally in the drag system. A good drag will have a low level of static friction - in other words it won’t get “stuck” before activating. A great drag system will also be very smooth and dispense pressure evenly. A good drag system can also be adjusted gradually - you want to avoid a reel where a small twist of the drag knob results in a major change in the setting. Finally, high quality reels have drags that do not “creep”: once you set the drag it keeps that position and doesn’t drift later on its own.

You’ll need a net

You always need a little luck to land huge trout, but a few tricks will help increase your chances. Photo Montana Angler

Rod position

The position of your fly rod is very important. You always want to see a bend in the rod. The deeper the bend the more pressure is placed on the fish. There is a sweet spot of every fish and every situation. The only way to learn where the sweet spot is through trial and error. The best way to learn this is to be willing to lose a few fish by putting too much pressure on them. It is better on the fish to bring them in fast to minimize fatigue. Losing a few fish by putting too much pressure on them is better than wearing them out to complete exhaustion by not putting enough pressure on a fish. Each time you do lose a fish, assess what happened...too much pressure, too little? A good rule of thumb is to keep the rod at a 45 degree angle with the water most of the time and then adjust accordingly.

To relieve pressure on a fish, which is often important when a fish is freshly hooked or running hard, you can drop the angle or flatten the rod a bit. A flatter rod reduces friction.

If you completely drop your rod and point it at the fish there is no bend in the rod which can be risky since a bent rod also helps act as a shock absorber to protect your tippet.

When a fish turns back towards you, gets tired or is running for an obstacle like a rapid, logjam, etc you should add extra pressure. The best way to add pressure is to lift the rod to a steeper angle...

A net is rarely needed when landing smaller trout. If you are on water where big fish do reside, you need a net. There is a lot that goes into successfully landing a big fish - setting the hook, fighting with just the right amount of pressure, and finally bringing the fish to hand. There is nothing more heartbreaking than loosing a big fish at your feet… especially if you didn’t bring a net. If you’re traveling in a boat, a net is 100% required, and it often has a large basket and long handle. If you are trying to land a big fish it is much more difficult to bring them in effectively if you are trying to hand land the fish. Hand landing big fish also requires that you fight them longer which also decreases the odds that the fish will survive once released. Do yourself and the trout of a lifetime a favor - bring a net!

Truly big fish don’t come along every day. When that special moment finally arrives make sure you are prepared to give yourself a better chance of admiring the “big one up close”!

When a fish is getting tired it is time to add pressure by lifting the rod angle.

Photo Montana Angler

Reel Drag

Some trout anglers like to debate the need for a reel with a disc drag system. It is true that in most trout fishing situations, a reel is mostly a storage device for fly line and an expensive drag system is not really needed. While the majority of the trout don’t require a reel or the drag system, you will certainly miss a high quality drag when you finally hook that trout of a lifetime. When fighting big fish, the drag system is often critical to the success of landing that fish. The job of a drag system is to tire the fish out more quickly than if there was no drag on the reel. Setting the drag to the correct setting is extremely important.

Hunting & Fishing News | 7

Photo courtesy Matt Bateman and www.bowhunting.net

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The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 16 Issue 2 Cover Photo: © Moose Henderson | Dreamstime.com

8 | Hunting & Fishing News

Team Work For Bowhunting Mule Deer In The High Country

By Matt Bateman Reprinted with permission from Bowhunting.net For more please go to: www.bowhunting.net

ust thinking about hunting big deer in high mountain basins Jworld gets me excited. I have hunted in locations around the and the United States, and nothing gets me excited

like big mule deer.

When it comes to hunting big mule deer in the high country, I have always been a loner. I have my secret spots and, when I spot a big buck, the secret is mine alone. I have gone to extremes to cover my tracks and not let anyone find out where I was. Friends and family have called me names like: crazy, obsessed, addicted, passionate, and even stupid.

Heck, there have been times when I sat on a mountain and called myself stupid.

Maybe I’ve been selfish, or maybe I’m just cautious from being burned too many times by those who couldn’t keep something quiet. I have been pickier about my hunting partners than I have been about the girls I have dated. courtesy Matt Bateman A recent archery season was Photo and www.bowhunting.net different though. I hooked up with a good group of guys who share the same love and passion for hunting big bucks in the high country, like I do.

Teamwork was the approach. We worked with each other and fed off of each other to make this season one to remember.

The results that came from hard work and teamwork were nothing short of incredible. There are a lot of things that go into successfully taking a good mule deer with archery equipment in the high country on public land; but, this year, teamwork was the key to our success.

We scouted incredibly hard as a team. We each spent what time we could scouting in different areas at different times and we shared what we saw and found. No secrets!

With five of us scouting, we literally scouted five times as much area. We all had the same goal in mind – Find as many good bucks as possible and have different options to hunt come opening day. We all have jobs and responsibilities; but, by working as a team, one or more of us was on the mountain scouting a couple of times every week.

Hunting with good bowhunters who share your same passion makes you a better hunter and motivates you. No matter how hardcore you are about hunting, there are times when you are tired, frustrated or even burned out – especially when it comes to archery hunting the steep, rugged terrain that big mule deer call home. Hunting with other sportsmen

that share this same passion will push you during these times and take you to a whole new level of hunting hard.

One of the most effective things about hunting as a team is that you can create opportunities for each other that one person cannot create on his own. Not only can you work together and combine your knowledge and experience when making a game plan to go after a big buck, but you can set each other up to cover escape routes, push for each other, spot for each other and signal each other into the best positions to get an opportunity. If there is a recipe for success in the high county, this is it. This method of teamwork proved to be deadly time and time again.

This brings me to hunting camp this season. Despite the fact that I was worn out from the long grueling hike, it didn’t take long after arriving in camp and meeting up with the “team” to get me pumped up and rejuvenated. Our hunting group consisted of my good friends and hunting buddies, Kip Fowler, Trent Thornton, Duane Keech, and Cody Cook.

We had all gone different directions for the opener, so it was nice to finally join up with the crew that had all worked hard during the pre-season to make this year a success.

As Cody and Kip talked about a huge typical they had spotted just before dark, I knew this was the buck I had seen one month earlier on a scouting trip. I had only seen him once, but the image of its wide typical frame was still engraved in my memory.

This was the kind of typical mule deer I had dreamed of.

At 5:00 a.m. the next morning we left camp. The plan was to split up in different areas where we could cover the most country and locate some bucks (another benefit of team hunting). Cody and I headed to a vantage point to try and glass up the big typical while Trent and Duane headed in another direction. Kip stayed in a central location to spot both ways. I have to give huge props to Kip. He worked as hard or harder than any of us, despite the fact that he didn’t even have a Utah deer tag.

Photo courtesy Matt Bateman and www.bowhunting.net

With thoughts of a monster typical on our minds, it didn’t take Cody and I long to cover the mile of rugged terrain to a good vantage point. Shortly after 6:00 a.m., we had the big typical spotted. Cody and I both drooled as we looked at him through our spotting scopes. What an awesome buck!

Before the sun was up, he left the other bucks and headed straight for heavy timber. Cody made an attempt to get down the mountain and get ahead of the buck while I stayed high to keep an eye on him, but he was too late. The big buck was in the deep, dark pines, and that is where he would stay for the day. Despite my best efforts over the next six hours, I was unable to find the big buck through my spotting scope.

We decided that since we didn’t have an exact location we would wait him out rather than go in blind and blow him out of the country. The wait was on!

I radioed Kip and told him we were going to sit the big buck out and wait to make a move. Kip, Duane, and Trent all decided that they would grab some lunch from camp and head our way to give us more eyes to spot the big buck and make a move on him.

(continued on page 46)

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SCOUT DEER In Spring Turkey Season

By Mike Hanback

Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com

hen we scout and hunt a property for deer W f ro m S e p t e mb e r t h ro u g h D e c e m b e r, we p o k e a ro u n d a n d lo o k f o r ru b s , s c r a p e s and tracks. But we are reluctant to walk around too much or penetrate too deeply into the woods for fear of bumping deer. That’s good, but trouble is, by working only the perimeters of a hunting area, you only get a glimpse of how and where the deer, and bucks, live and travel.

But in the spring, you can walk freely in the woods and investigate every ridge, bottom and thicket for signs of deer.

Why not kill two birds with one stone and combine your scouting with your turkey hunting in April and May? At daylight, listen for a gobbling bird and go get him if you can. Midmornings, when the turkeys go quiet, start walking. Cover every ridge, draw and creek bottom on the land. Check out every edge, thicket or swamp.

You’ll bump a few deer, but who cares? You won’t be back to hunt them for another 5 or 6 months.

As you’re walking along pause every few hundred yards and cast a few yelps and cutts, hoping to strike a gobbler whose hens have left him for the day.

If no luck with that, cut every deer trail you come across, follow it a ways and see where it goes.

Trails the deer use now will be fresh and muddy, but old worn trails they used last fall and winter will still be visible. Those old trails are the ones you need to find and follow, since those are the ones a buck used back in hunting season, and the ones he’ll use again this fall.

Main trails will fork into secondary trails that link more food sources and cover thickets. Walk those too, and key in on pockets of deer sign. When a trail cuts across a creek, veers around a ridge point or drops into a ditch, take note because those funneling points are great places for trail cameras and tree stands next fall.

As you hike, look for feeding areas you might have missed or never knew about—white oaks on a ridge, a patch of greenery near a swamp, persimmons, old apple trees… Same goes for small or large thickets, cutovers, weedy ditches and the like that serve as satellite or major bedding areas.

Rubs and scrapes from last October and November are easy to spot in the spring woods. Look for “signpost” rubs–large, scarred trees that mark some section of a buck’s core living area. Missouri whitetail scientist Grant Woods points out that while mature bucks blaze the big rubs, many deer interact with them.

“They act as communal pheromone wicks and are located in areas with high deer traffic,” he says.

That would be an obvious spot to scout further and hang a stand this fall.

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Woods has found a correlation between the number of rubs in an area and the number of older bucks that live there. On a management property in Tennessee, he’s observed an amazing 5,000 rubs per square mile, or 7.8 per acre. If you find a piece of woods lit up with rubbed trees like that, start looking for stand sites for this fall.

Whitetail bucks are habitual, and scrape in the same general areas year after year.

As you walk and turkey call, look for three old scraping patterns, and make a note to come back and check them again as bucks start rutting this October: –A cluster of scrapes at the intersection of 2 or 3 trails, w i t h big r ubs nearb y. Th is is a “ru t ju n c t io n ” a n d a gr eat spo t fo r a trail came ra.

–A scrape line on the edge of a linear honeysuckle thicket or a row of pines or cedars. Bucks run these edges frequently in late October and early November.

Another good spot for a trail camera.

–A heavily scraped spot on a ridge 100 yards or so off a corn or bean field. If the acorn crop is good again in the fall, bucks will stage and scrape there again.

I hope you get your turkey this spring, but if not all is not lost. The more you roam and learn the woods, and the more old buck sign you find, the better you’ll hunt this fall.

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IRD

By Matthew Breuer Project Upland www.projectupland.com

Understanding all aspects of North American bird counts.

Whether we like to admit it or not, every upland hunter follows the bird counts of their favorite species in their favorite hunting areas. Pheasant hunters swarm to South Dakota when the numbers look good, and my home state of Minnesota gets pounded on years when the drumming counts are high.

We all look at these numbers, but do we really grasp what they mean? Do we consider how the numbers are acquired?

Do we take into consideration that the numbers aren’t gathered during hunting season? Let’s explore some of these things, so we can all better understand bird counts.

HOW IS THE DATA ACQUIRED?

Every species is easier to find in different ways and in different areas. Prairie birds like to gather and dance, while pheasants and Hungarian partridge are most visible when they visit road edges during late summer. The ruffed grouse drums, and he drums a lot. Since each species does things a bit differently, the methods used to acquire data are a little different for each group.

Ruffed Grouse

Male ruffed grouse love to strut in the spring. After finding a good log, they pop up on it, puff out their chest and beat their wings so fast and with such vigor that their unique sound is a dead giveaway. Any uplander can spot the sound of a drumming grouse from a long ways off on a calm day.

Here in Minnesota, these drummers were first counted in 1949 and routes began to be documented. Over the next 30 years, more routes were added. By the early 1980s the current routes

Photo paulbinet depositphotos.com

were set. Surveyors follow these exact routes, stopping to listen for drumming at certain spots along their routes.

The amount of drumming heard at each stop is recorded, and all numbers are calculated after roughly five weeks of monitoring. That’s the short version of how ruffed grouse numbers are acquired.

Prairie Grouse

Birds like the sharp-tailed grouse and greater prairie-chickens like to gather on dancing grounds (known as leks). Their dance can be observed and counted early in the morning with binoculars or from up close using a ground blind. However, with changes in habitat, leks can move from year-to-year, and some leks may not ever be found due to their remote locations.

In 1976 the lek survey methods were put into place, and data has been collected ever since. Volunteers and wildlife staff all participate in the surveys, recording how many males, females, and birds of undetermined sex are present at a lek during each visit.

Farmland Species

Pheasants and Hungarian partridge are counted a little differently. These gallinaceous birds are notorious for hanging out on road edges, pecking at gravel early in the morning. Roadside counts are the norm for data collection.

In Minnesota, there are 172 routes that are each 25 miles long. Surveyors travel these routes once when conditions are predicted to be ideal. The numbers of birds as well as other common farmland wildlife are recorded.

WHEN IS THE DATA ACQUIRED?

Again, each species or group is a bit different. Since ruffed grouse and prairie birds are easiest to find during their mating season, counts are done in April and May. These surveys target adult birds, primarily males. The roadside counts are done between August 1 and August 15.

POSSIBLE INACCURACIES IN DATA COLLECTION

While the bird surveys are science-based, they are far from perfect science.

When dealing with anything wild, there are far too many outside variables to set exact numbers. The slightest event can skew numbers one way or the other.

Three key factors should be considered when thinking about surveys vs. sightings during hunting season.

Weather

If it’s cloudy, windy, or rainy during the entire survey time-frame, odds aren’t in the favor of the surveyor — they’re not going to observe or hear as many birds as they would on calm, sunny days.

This goes for all species mentioned above, especially pheasants, as there’s only one day of surveying on each route.

Taking it a step further, since ruffed grouse and prairie grouse numbers are counted before nesting season, the numbers don’t reflect brood survival or adjust for weather events during nesting or post-hatch. Are those things taken into consideration? Yes, but survey data reflects conditions at the time of the survey, not future events.

Time of Year

Grouse hunters should keep this fact in mind: 4-1/2 to 5 months pass from the time the drumming counts are completed until opening day arrives. A lot can happen to a little bird in a big forest or open prairie in that time-frame. Bad nesting conditions, high predation, disease, severe weather events, poor food conditions and habitat loss can all play a factor in why drumming counts might be high but hunting success is low.

Pheasant and partridge hunters will see the roadside counts conducted in August, which is much closer to the season.

However, there are still challenges with the time-frame of the survey. If a late hatch occurred, some birds may not be included in the count since young birds aren’t as visible and the roosters aren’t as distinguished in coloration.

Survey Areas

Since the survey routes and stops are established and have changed very little since the surveys became concrete,

there’s a significant chance that the habitat along the routes has changed drastically.

Trees grow, crops cycle, the Conservation Reserve Program comes and goes, and human encroachment or sprawl is imminent. If the habitat along one of the routes is non-existent, it’s not skipped over as the data still needs to be collected.

It’s important to remember that the surveys are designed to capture the changes in habitat that occur through time. If the forest is cleared in one area, it is maturing in another area, and the routes are still representative of what is going on at a larger scale. The routes do get changed, however, when the habitat is not likely to come back or if conditions prevent a good survey, such as when the land is developed or traffic is so heavy that the birds can no longer be heard.

POSSIBLE CHANGES TO THE SURVEYS

In speaking with several people involved in these counts and surveys, one word rang true over-and-over: trends. Could the routes change with the habitat to show higher numbers? Most definitely.

But as Charlotte Roy, Grouse Biologist from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources explained, “If we change the way we collect data, it would be like starting from scratch.

To be comparable, the methods have to be similar. Right now we have years and years of data, and we can compare years to figure out trends at a large scale over time.”

When I asked her if there were any considerations for different or alternative methods for collecting data being discussed, she again pointed out the importance of trends. “The primary new thing that’s been discussed is the new survey to collect data for spruce grouse population trends, which has never been done in Minnesota. It took four years to figure out a good way to collect the data. But now that we have it in place, we’ll do it similarly each year so that we can look at changes through time.”

When I posed this question to Nicole Davros, the Farmland Wildlife Research Supervisor for the Minnesota DNR, she stated, “There are some nuances to the roadside indices every year that can also require some interpretation. They have to do with understanding how weather (in winter, spring, and summer) might be affecting survival (over-winter hen survival, nest success, brood survival) and thus the numbers we get each year.

“For example, if our data shows that hen and brood indices are down from a previous year but the rooster index is up, then we start to think about whether it is a true decline in some numbers or if a late hatch due to spring weather can explain it.” (continued on page 46)

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14 | Hunting & Fishing News

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Walleye lottery gets anglers involved in new Fish and Game research program great taste of a walleye fillet isn’t enough, anglers IinfwilltheLake now have added incentive to catch and keep walleye Pend Oreille and connected Idaho waters.

Starting March 1, an experimental program launched by Idaho Fish and Game and Avista will offer a chance at cash rewards for anglers harvesting walleye.

Fifty walleye in Lake Pend Oreille, the Clark Fork River and the Pend Oreille River have been injected in the snout with a tiny, internal tag. These tags are invisible to anglers, but turning in heads from legally caught walleye offers anglers a chance at two types of cash rewards.

Anglers will receive $1,000 for a head that is turned in from a tagged walleye. Additionally, every walleye head turned in enters anglers in the monthly drawing for ten cash prizes of $100 each.

There is no bag limit on walleye in the Pend Oreille system.

For rules and entry details visit Fish and Game’s Lake Pend Oreille Angler Incentive Program website or any of the following fish head freezer locations: • McDonald’s Hudson Bay Resort, 17813 E Hudson Bay Rd, Bayview • Fish & Game Field Office, 16805 Limekiln Rd, Bayview • Garfield Bay Boat Launch, 61 W Garfield Bay Rd, Sagle • Glengary Boat Launch, Marina Rd, Sagle • Peck Landscape Supplies & Farm Store, 468215 Hwy 95, Sagle • North 40, 477181 N Hwy 95, Ponderay • Arnie’s Conoco, 32131 Hwy 200, Kootenai • Holiday Shores Resort and Cafe, 46624 Hwy 200, Hope • Hope Marine, 47392 Hwy 200, Hope • Bonner Park West, 500 Railroad Ave, Priest River • Fish & Game Regional Office, 2885 W Kathleen Ave, Coeur d’Alene (weekdays, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.)

Experimental approach focuses on fishing power Walleye were essentially non-existent in Lake Pend Oreille ten years ago, but numbers have been rapidly increasing since 2014. The population likely originated from an illegal introduction of walleye into Noxon Reservoir in the early 1990’s...For more visit: https://idfg.idaho.gov/press/50000-swimming-lake-pend-oreille

SPRINGTIME SPINNERBAITS FOR

has a small Colorado blade and a Willow blade, that offers a tighter vibration but gives off more flash for clearer waters for imitating a school of baitfish.

L ARGEMOUTH BASS

By Kevin Dahlke Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com

S

pringtime means that the waters are warming and that in turn draws the fish to the shorelines for those warmer temperature waters as well as they start getting prepared for the coming spawn. Structure objects in the shallow waters are heat absorbers from the suns rays and these areas warm that much more quickly as well.

Certain areas hold more fish than others and finding these locations needs to be done quickly and effectively for having a good day on the water. One way to cover these different areas is to fish different looking areas with a spinnerbait.

The Northland Tackle Reed-Runner® Spinnerbait allows you to fan cast a variety of areas and by varying the retrieve, giving the baits profile a different look and vibration from the blades. There are two blade variation options that allow you to cover that variety of water that you are looking for the fish in.

The Single Spin, has a single Colorado blade that gives off a lot of vibration, that in off colored water, the fish can feel and hone into the bait through their lateral line. The Tandem Spin,

Photo courtesy Northland Fishing Tackle

In the springtime, while running the trolling motor, you can fan cast targets as you go along the shoreline, docks, trees, rocks and the emerging lily pads. Casting right to the shoreline and using a variety of retrieves, letting the fish tell you what they prefer and then start mimicking that retrieve as you cast to other targets.

When you find an area that is holding a fish or two, spend a bit more time working that area more and chances are, you may hit into several fish. The spinnerbait is a bait that allows you to cover a good amount of water and is easily castable to specific locations.

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www.berkley-fishing.com

THINK VERTICAL FOR COLD WATER BASS .

When water temperatures tumble below the low 40 F range, bass often move from mid-depth flats to more vertical structures. Fast-breaking edges allow bass to change depth easily, without traveling long distances. Under mild conditions, bass move shallower and feed along the upper lip of the break. Cold fronts or chilly weather send them back down into deep water. For fishing steep banks, it’s hard to beat a drop-shot rig with a softbait such as a stickbait, worm, or minnow. Dropshotting lets you carefully probe deep edges and imparts enticing action to the lure, often needed to tempt bites in cold water.

JIGGING STREAM TROUT

Stream trout feed more selectively than many gamefish.

Whatever big trout are feeding on, whether it’s insect larvae or minnows, it’s important to use a presentation that looks and moves like the real thing. Most of the major diet items can be imitated by a jig. Tiny 1/64-ounce jigs tipped with a plastic nymph imitate nymph-stage insects, while a larger 1/16-ounce jig with a 1-inch white curlytail grub imitates a larger pupae or small baitfish. Jigs can be worked slowly (bounced lightly across bottom) or swum through deeper waters of pools and runs. In summer, cast jigs along under-cut banks, around deeper wood, below cascades into plunge pools, and behind boulders in runs.

Image courtesy Berkley Fishing

SPRING RUN STEELHEAD

Spring-run steelhead can be difficult to catch in rivers when flows run high and dirty. In high water, steelhead tend to hold longer in areas of reduced current such as the inside turn on a bend, the slow side of a long run, a shallow flat out of the main flow, or any other type of current break. Most high water situations call for bottom rigs. A simple rig consists of a #2 to #4 hook tied to the mainline with shot placed on the line about 18 inches up from the hook. Bait the hook with bright colored eggs or a steelhead worm and work the baits along bottom in likely locations. To fish flats, try bright softbaits on a 1/8- to 1/4- ounce jig below a float.

FUNDAMENTAL LIVE BAIT RIGGING FOR WALLEYES Swivel Main line

Long Leader - Less Control,

Leader (snell) More Bait Movement

Sinker (away from bait)

Slip sinker

Short Leader - More Control, Less Bait Movement

Sinker toward bait snell 1/4-ounce sinker 1/4-ounce jig

leech

Jighead offers more control leech

Image courtesy Berkley Fishing

The fundamental livebait rig consists of a slipsinker s l idi ng on t he mai n l ine, f ollow ed b y a sn e ll c ons is t ing of a s w iv el, lengt h of l ine, a n d h o o k.

Mos t s nells range f rom about 3 t o 5 f e e t .

This rig is bumped along the bottom in likely areas where walleyes hold, in spring, particularly along sand and gravel drop-offs at the deep edge of bars at t he mout h of c reek arms .

Most rigging in spring is in relatively shallow water.

In windy conditions, walleyes also often move up on shallow flats. Longer snells often produce better results than shorter snells in clear water. Because stealth often is a key in rigging situations, anglers often tie up their own snells with a light (6-pound), limp monofilament, instead of relying on over-the-counter snells that have heavier line.

16 | Hunting & Fishing News

Cast Shad Dancers On Nanobraid To Catch

SHALLOW WALLEYES In Clear, Cold Water

o catch the most pre-spawn walleyes in clear-water natural lakes T “Up North”, cast Rapala Shad Dancers on Sufix Nanobraid where water temps remain unseasonably cool. ®

®

®

®

Shallow walleyes in clear water are notoriously spooky, so making long casts with moving baits often out-produces vertically jigging live bait or trolling this time of year.

“The biggest key element is remaining quiet, getting in stealthy and pitching away from the boat – not fishing right below the boat,” explains Tony Roach, an in-demand guide on Minnesota’s Mille Lacs Lake. “The water in that famous walleye factory this spring is extremely cool and extremely clear,” Roach reports. As a result, “The fish are going to be spooky,” he says. “But as long as you’re pitching, you’re going to be catching fish. Those walleyes are going to be jam-packed in the shallow waters – whether it’s rock reefs, sand flats, even old weed beds,” Roach adds. “Those walleyes are going to be up there doing their thing.

And guess what? They’re going to be feeding.” One of the best baits to pitch to actively feeding, (but spooky) pre-spawn, shallow Rapala Shad Dancer. Photo courtesy Rapala walleyes is a Rapala Shad Dancer.

“It’s half Tail Dancer®, half Shad Rap® – both proven fish-catching baits,” Roach explains. “This is going to be one of your new favorite baits, I guarantee it. It’s going to be a bait you’re going to want to have in your tacklebox.”

Swimming with a silent but aggressive, hard-thumping and sweeping tail action, the Shad Dancer offers the excitement of a Rapala Tail Dancer in a shad-profile bait.

River Runner

Pro V

It features a tough balsa body that dives 7 to 10 feet whether cast or trolled.

And its triggering action rivals that of the legendary Shad Rap, but with the added ability to fly farther and dive deeper. “It casts like a bullet,” Photo courtesy Rapala says James Holst, host of In-Depth Outdoors on the Fox Sports North television channel. “It’s a balsa bait that you can heave about twice as far as a Shad Rap.” For wind-dependent walleye bites, that’s a game-changer...” Shad Dancers twitch, quiver and wobble with inimitable life-like action on the retrieve because they’re made from balsa wood, Rapala’s signature material.

It’s what makes them so much better at catching fish than copycat baits.“That’s one thing that separates Rapala baits from all other competitors,” says award-winning tournament angler Randall Tharp. Pause when retrieving a Shad Dancer to witness the real magic of its balsa construction.

“When you stop the retrieve, the bait starts floating up,” explains Minnesota Fishing Hall of Famer Mark Fisher, chief lure designer at Rapala USA. “The bait kind of just hovers there, rising ever so slowly,” adds award-winning tournament angler Michael Iaconelli. “That often, in itself, triggers a bite...

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2019 SPRING MACK DAYS

LAKE TROUT FISHING EVENT on FLATHEAD LAKE

T ROLLING WEED WALLEYE

By Jason Mitchell www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com

weed covered flats seem to hold walleye particularly March 15 th Large through the first half of the summer. These often-large to May 12 nondescript locations can be often overlooked by anglers

th

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Tuesday through Sunday: Friday, Saturday, and Sunday are for the contests, bonus amounts, and tagged fish.

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Captains $250-(4 prizes) Smallest lake trout $250-(2 prizes) Largest lake trout-$500 - (Fri.- Sun.) Top lady anglers $300, $200, $100 $100-totals used (Fri.-Sun.) Youth anglers - (17-13) 1st-$200, 2nd-$150, 3rd-$75, 4-5th-$50 (Fri.-Sun.) (12 & under) 1st-$100, 2nd-$75, 3rd-$50 (Fri.-Sun.) (8) Weekend Prizes-$100x5 (Fri.-Sun.) drawn and announced weekly Golden Angler Award (70 & older) $200 & $100 and (2) $50 (Fri.-Sun.) Bucket Competition - 3 days of single/team heaviest 4 fish 3/29 Friday, 4/20 Saturday, 5/5 Sunday Siberian Cooler ticket: 1 for every 10 entries (Fri. - Sun.) Last Day: $300, $200, $100 PLUS Heaviest Mack under 30” $200 and $100 BONUSES: ALL ANGLERS WHO ENTER 11 or more LAKE TROUT WIN Every day counts: Tues.-Sun. (51 total days) See www.mackdays.com for complete rules We ask that all boats from out of the Flathead area be inspected for AIS.

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You can also enter when you check in your fish at the check in stations during Mack Days.

We remind you to follow all fishing regulations.

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who have been preprogrammed to look for structure.

Depending on the lake or water you are fishing, these flats can range anywhere from five to fifteen feet of water.

Stained water typically sees weed growth topping out in much shallower water where water with excellent visibility might see weed growth that reaches out to twenty feet or more.

For sure, breaking contours that have emerging weeds often attract walleye but these locations also look fishier on a topographic map and often attract more attention from anglers. The large flats that are perhaps an acre or larger however might look unassuming but don’t overlook the productivity.

My absolute favorite situation for dialing in weed flat walleyes occur when the weeds are growing up about half way down in the water column. If there is a common mistake many anglers make, it would be trying to fish too close to the weeds to the point your presentation is fouled up.

Because these fish are often scattered over a large area, trolling crankbaits is an incredibly effective way to target these fish.

The advantage of trolling crankbaits comes from not only being able to cover water but also control your depth.

If you are covering a ten-foot flat and the weed growth is four feet high, pull your cranks about four to five feet down.

As the summer progresses and the weeds grow even higher, we often find ourselves trolling baits two to three feet down at times to skim over the tops of the weeds.

Get above the weeds and make fish come up for the bait… which they will.

Over really clear water, we often have to use planer boards to catch fish but one advantage to fishing over weeds is that any ripple seems to slightly cloud the water. On cabbage and broader leaved variety pondweeds in particular, there is a film of residue that seems to collect on the stalks and leaves and with the slightest wind or movement, this residue breaks loose and will slightly cloud or stain the water.

This is why on really tough, flat, bluebird days, I often like to spend time fishing over weeds. Unless you are dealing with really skinny water between the tops of the weeds and the surface, use a deeper diving crank on a short amount of line to increase your efficiency. In other words, if you have five to ten feet of water to work with, don’t feel like you have to use a shallow running lure with a small bill that requires letting out more than thirty feet of line. Experiment with deeper diving lures that have a larger bill so that you can pull these lures less than twenty feet from either the planer board or behind the boat to reach the desired depth.

This shortened leash speeds up cleaning weeds off lures and simply less can go wrong if you have to reel fish in over a shorter distance. Planer boards are also much easier to read for fouled up lures when using a deeper diving lure close to the board.

Over stained water, we often find that planer boards are not as necessary and if we are in a situation where they are not necessary, we don’t use them to increase our efficiency even more. If you can get away with simply pulling lures behind the boat, you can also tell much easier if the lure is fouled up and there is one less step when you get a fish on.

We have encountered many different nuances to these weed flat walleye patterns over the years.

Trolling speed is a huge factor to experiment with as trolling speed combined with lure running depth is usually more important than lure color.

Often, I dare say that speed and depth is often even more important than the lure. Our procedure is to make big S-Curves if we are not catching fish so that we can figure out if the fish want the lure slow or fast. Don’t be afraid to fish above the weeds and error on the side of high, particularly with planer boards.

These patterns often require you to get comfortable and confident in that the windows are often intense. I personally believe that the aggressive fish position near the top of the weeds and are often cruising. During the first half of the summer in particular when walleyes are feeding on young of the year fish hatches like bluegill, crappie and white bass, we often catch a staggering number of fish using really small profile crankbaits like the Salmo H4F Hornet.

These tiny cranks have an extremely intense action and fish much bigger than their size. From Iowa to Wisconsin and back to the Dakotas, running these small Hornets over weed flats is just simply deadly. Not only do you catch walleye, but you seem to catch everything with these cranks including big panfish.

Even though this pattern often takes place over relatively shallow water, electronics are still important. Obviously, you can see how high the weeds are but don’t get obsessed with looking for fish below the boat. I prefer the Lowrance HDS Carbon for the best side imaging and what you see to the side of the boat is important. Typically, you will see the weed growth on the side scan and fish will just look like horizontal or vertical lines and often times these lines

will curve or slash as the fish are often moving.

When fish position high as they often do when aggressive, you can often see them on good side scan.

If you run a Lowrance HDS Carbon, make sure to upload the unit with the latest software available...as the software update will give Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell you much better definition further out to the sides of the boat.

This enables you to increase your range dramatically when looking for fish.

These types of weed flat locations are often under-fished but I can’t stress enough how productive these locations can be. Walleye anglers by large are programmed to look for structure and fish close to the bottom so some anglers have a confidence hurdle to fish this pattern but the reality is that on many fisheries, these locations are some of the most productive patterns we encounter.

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Not all crankbaits with diving lips are floating models. A select few are sinking models that also feature a diving lip. These baits tend to be exceptionally efficient in casting situations because they stay in the “strike zone” longer than traditional crankbaits. Photo Courtesy Mark Romanack

The Lowdown On Countdown Cranking

By Mark Romanack Fishing 411 TV www.fishing411.net

ine out of 10 crankbaits float at rest and dive when retrieved.

N It’s that one crankbait out of 10 that does things a little differently that walleye fishermen have unfortunately ignored.

Sinking or what are commonly called countdown lures bring a new set of standards to the crankbait party.

Crankbaits that sink aren’t rare, but among walleye fishermen these lures are rarely used to their potential. An exception to the rule would be the legendary Rapala Countdown Minnow.

This sinking stickbait has been catching walleye and earning a place in countless tackle boxes for decades. It might come as a surprise to Fishing 411 Blog readers that sinking style body baits have a deep tradition in walleye fishing and especially for targeting big walleye!

For example, a couple of the past Ohio State Walleye Records have been held with a sinking crankbait.

The also legendary Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap was designed for bass fishing, but it also triggers savage walleye strikes.

The Rat-L-Trap is especially deadly in waters that have an abundance of gizzard or other shad species on the forage menu. In the case of Lake Erie where these Ohio records were set, the Rat-L-Trap does a great job of imitating shad and turning walleye heads.

The current Ohio State Walleye Record, a 16.19 pound giant, was caught by Tom Haberman fishing for perch using a live bait rig...

SHORTCOMINGS OF FLOATING CRANKBAITS Most crankbaits float at rest and dive when retrieved.

Water resistance pushing against the lip causes the lure to dive.

Meanwhile the buoyancy of the lure and friction from the line passing through the water is working in an opposite way to restrict diving depth.

The fundamental design of a floating plug allows these lures to be fished effectively over the top of rocks, emerging weeds or other fish holding cover. By manipulating important variables like casting distance, line diameter and rod position an intuitive angler can effectively control the diving depth of a floating crankbait with amazing accuracy.

Casting distance and line diameter are the two most important factors to consider.

The further a plug can be casted, the deeper it will run.

In general, small and lightweight crankbaits are poor choices for casting because they can only be thrown modest distances.

Line diameter is the second factor that dictates crankbait running depth. Thin lines have less resistance in the water and allow these baits to achieve maximum depths. For walleye casting applications, six or eight pound test monofilament is a good option, but a growing number of anglers favor casting with super braids or fused lines in the 10 to 15 pound test range that represent the ultimate in thin, yet exceptionally strong fishing lines.

Not surprisingly the relative size of the diving lip also plays a role in the depths a respective plug can achieve. Amazingly, even a crankbait with a big lip, will reach only moderate depths on an average cast. Several factors work to prevent these lures from reaching more significant depths, but lure buoyancy is one of the biggest factors to overcome.

A floating crankbait resists diving and requires most of the total casting distance to overcome the forces of buoyancy and friction. On a typical cast, a buoyant bait doesn’t reach maximum depth until the last 1/4 of the retrieve. Ironically, just about the time the lure is reaching the target depth, it’s also nearing the end of the retrieve. As a result, floating crankbaits fish a targeted depth zone only a small percentage of the time they are in the water.

Because the typical floating plug is at maximum depth for only a brief period of time, the efficiency of these lures comes into question. A floating crankbait is fishing an effective strike zone only about 25% of the time it’s in the water! Ouch.

Some models of crankbaits are designed to dive at steeper angles and run at target depths for longer distances.

Lures that dive at a steep angle only increase the effectiveness of a crankbait marginally.

SINKING CRANKBAITS

A sinking style crankbait has a completely different dynamic.

Because the lure can be counted down to specific depths before the retrieve is started, a sinking or countdown lure can effectively be presented at a desired depth along the majority of the cast.

The second advantage of using sinking crankbaits is they can be used to effectively fish much deeper water than is practical with a floating style lure.

Thirdly, sinking lures can be fished at ultra slow speeds to increase depth, or the retrieve can be quickened to enhance the lure action.

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CRANKBAIT STYLES

Sinking crankbaits have traditionally been offered in two common styles including minnow or stickbaits and lipless versions. In the stickbait category a number of popular brands and sizes are available including the Rapala Countdown Minnow, Salmo Sinking Minnow and Yo-Zuri Emperor Minnow and SW Pins Minnow.

In the lipless crankbait category the list of available lures is much larger.

The Rapala Clackin’ Rap, Salmo Zipper, Cotton Cordell Super Spot, Photo courtesy Mark Romanack

Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap, XCalibur XR50 and Sebile Flats Shad just to name a few. All of these lures feature a high frequency rattle that’s designed to imitate the sound shad make.

Also, because of the lipless design, these lures are great options for fishing among weed cover that would make using other plug designs challenging.

A third and little known option in the sinking style crankbait is offered by Salmo a Poland based manufacturer. Salmo offers several of the their most popular diving lip style crankbaits in both floating and sinking versions. The popular Hornet, Perch and Bullhead are all produced in multiple sizes and both floating and sinking versions. Combining a diving lip with a sinking crankbait allows these lures to achieve greater depths than possible with floating/diving plufa or traditional countdown style lures.

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Most crankbaits use a diving lip to achieve depth. Countdown baits tend to have smaller lips and reach their depth based on being negatively buoyant.

A few crankbaits on the market combine the features of being sinking models with the added advantage of a diving lip. Photo courtesy Mark Romanack

This unique category of crankbaits is kind of in a class by itself because the lure is both sinking and diving to achieve depth. Using this unique lure group opens up crankbait fishing options in both shallow and deep water.

Cranking along deep water breaks, targeting submerged islands, working flats and cliff edges are just a few of the options using a sinking/diving crankbait brings to light.

Fishing sinking/diving crankbaits can also be productive casting along defined weed edges, visible cover such as rock piles, fishing along rip rap or shore protection and other places that concentrate baitfish and attract walleye.

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The idea of using sinking crankbaits isn’t completely foreign, but it is surprising how few walleye fishermen get the most from these lures. The next time the idea of fishing a crankbait comes to mind, ask yourself if a sinking model wouldn’t be more efficient.

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8 Rifle Shooting Stances You Should Know!

(Hunting and Tactical)

By Andrew Jackson www.outdoorempire.com ifles are accurate firearms capable of making long-range R shots. However, taking advantage of this capability can be difficult when you don’t have access to a convenient bench covered in sandbags.

Missing a shot has little to no consequence at the shooting range, but out in the field, a missed shot can mean the difference between taking a deer home for dinner and going home empty-handed.

Knowing, and more importantly practicing, the following shooting positions and stances can help you land that shot when there’s no convenient rifle rest available.

Rifle Stance Basics

Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson

In order to be as accurate as possible, you want to get the rifle stable. The rifle’s stock will help, but there are certain biomechanical aspects you can keep in mind that apply to all of the following stances.

Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson

1. First of all, you want as many points of contact with the rifle as possible. This means you should have the stock pulled into your shoulder, your cheek on the stock, your strong hand holding the grip, and your support hand supporting the rifle.

2. Secondly, you want to minimize the amount of force applied to the rifle that’s not in line with the bore. This means when gripping the grip, don’t squeeze it left or right.

Instead, try to ensure that you’re pushing forward with your palm and backward with your fingers so all of the force from your grip is in line with the bore.

Your support hand should be placed so the gun rests on it if you need the hand for support. Move your aim by moving your body, not by pushing with your support hand.

You can also use other items for support, such as tree branches or a bipod (we’ll cover this at the end of the article).

You shouldn’t hold up the rifle with your strong hand.

All it’s there to do is to pull the trigger and pull the rifle into your shoulder to brace against recoil. If you’re in a good position, you can let go with your strong hand and the rifle won’t change position. (continued on page 42)

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UPCOMING EVENTS Chapter Name Southwest MT Giant Springs Gallatin Bitterroot Valley Elkhorn Five Valleys Vigilante Blackfoot-Clearwater Upper Yellowstone Gallatin WFW Crazy Mountains Sanders County Lincoln County Beaverhead Flathead WFW Southwest MT WFW Five Valleys WFW

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RMEF is now working with a private landowner and several other partners to raise funds to restore access and purchase the property for inclusion in the adjacent Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest. In addition to opening the 442 acres, the transaction provides a pathway to 26,000 acres of U.S. National Forest land as well as access to more than one mile of Falls Creek plus a new access point to the Dearborn River. Restoring access to the National Forest lands will allow wildlife managers to address an abundant elk population in Hunting District 422 and provide access to quality hunting.

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Photo courtesy Tayler Michels

Think About Hunting When There Is No Hunting

By Tayler Michels Passion For The Hunt www.passionforthehunt.com

uccess in hunting typically favors those that put forth S the most effort. To have success, you must first have opportunity. The second factor is simply capitalizing on

Most classes only take a day. A shooting school teaches the correct processes and forms while identifying bad habits with your own rifle. When I attended Brian’s class last summer, I increased my shooting confidence tremendously and successfully increased my effective shooting range by at least a hundred yards.

Archery hunting also requires practice and a comfort level.

Practicing more is great but practicing with a purpose is even better. Challenge yourself each shooting session.

Practice farther shots. This will increase your effective range over time as well as make your bread and butter shots seem like chip shots at closer ranges. Simply increasing your effective shooting range by ten yards for most bow hunters will compound shot opportunities greatly. This process is most effective when challenging yourself, shooting targets at distances outside your comfort zone, and losing arrows in the process. Lessons are better learned by losing a few arrows at the range than paying tuition with a wounded buck of a lifetime because you didn’t prioritize shooting practice or neglected maintenance on your bow. Try to recreate actual hunting situations like shooting out of breath or shooting from a kneeling position if you plan to elk hunt for example.

Embrace opportunities to further learn your equipment by shooting when there is wind or practice shooting while wearing a lot of clothing if you plan on hunting late season.

opportunities. Practice and preparation are often a deciding factor in being successful or not. This is the perfect time of year to figure out how to become better for the next go ‘round. As a guide and hunter, I so often see people falling short of their potential. Each offseason is a time to reflect.

The reality is that as hunters, we will make mistakes and we won’t be perfect but as we reflect, it becomes easy to find aspects of our own preparation we can better prepare.

For myself, I focus on three categories that if improved upon, will create more opportunities and equal more success.

These three categories represent the areas I see myself and other hunters so often coming up short.

SHOOTING

In the grand scheme, we are often more successful if we are comfortable with our weapon. The harsh reality is that the best shooters will be the best hunters. If I had to pick between being a great shooter and a great hunter, I would rather be a dead eye shooter. When hunting and guiding the Missouri River Breaks Country of Montana, I spend time with diverse groups of hunters with all types of shooting experiences and backgrounds.

The hunters who take care of their weapons and practice throughout the year are almost always more successful.

Having consistent accuracy as well as a longer effective shooting range is important.

For a rifle hunter, if you measure the lifespan of a box of bullets in “years,” you are less dangerous to a deer or elk than your neighbor who is scheduling monthly visits to the range. Carving out the time is easier said than done for most people. If there is something you can do to increase your game dramatically, consider a premier shooting school.

The feedback and lessons you can receive at a shooting school or long-range course are often invaluable.

Money very well spent where you can acquire a lot of shooting knowledge in a short amount of time.

This can be a much faster learning curve approach than simply going to a range. There are great educational shooting courses around the Country. In Minnesota, one of the best is Brian Walsh of PointBlank Gun Training in Crow Wing County, Minnesota. This course offers a long-range shooting school that helps develop shooting skills and confidence from beginners up to the most experienced shooters.

26 | Hunting & Fishing News

Long range shooting courses and shooting schools can increase the learning curve dramatically. Off season target practice should have a purpose to not only increase accuracy and confidence but recreate actual hunting conditions. Photo Courtesy Tayler Michels

MIND OVER MATTER

Mental and physical fitness often go hand in hand.

In my opinion, hunting is often much more of a mental game than a physical battle. The lows can be very low while the highs can be off the charts. What I find however is that my mind works better when my body works better. The reality for most people is that day to day life can make us all soft.

Most people don’t have jobs where they need to walk several miles to work for example. Simple decisions through the course of an off season like taking the stairs instead of an elevator become a mentality that helps in crunch time. I want to feel confident when I hunt and not let the situation feel too big. When I work hard to stay in shape, not only can I capitalize on opportunities, but my mind is sharper as well.

Adversity is very real in the realm of hunting. There are days when nothing goes right or according to plan. We ultimately need to deal with elements like rain, wind, snow, excessive heat, a flat tire or broken equipment. Commit to becoming a more physically and mentally resilient hunter in the offseason. Over time, you’ll become the individual that is willing to sit longer in cold weather. You will hike farther and faster into areas without being intimidated.

You will handle the lows that occur when you aren’t seeing game.

A resilient hunter is a much more successful hunter.

TEST AND UPGRADE GEAR

Choosing the right gear is last on purpose. Getting in shape and getting comfortable as a shooter is the most important aspect of any off season. Some hunters truthfully try to compensate for a lack of effort or the lack of crucial preparations by buying the latest gear. There are always new technological advancements however that we can incorporate into our hunting. With so many clothing options, gadgets and accessories in the market today, deciding what is necessary can be challenging. I want to help you prioritize your wish list, placing the items at the top that are going to effectively make you more dangerous to the animals you intend to pursue. GPS technology can be a huge advantage for example if you plan to hunt big game out west. New mapping takes the guess work out of recognizing public land tracts and how to access those tracts.

Map chips enable hunters to find land owner information for attempting to get permission on private land. If you are from Minnesota for example, a big game hunt on public land in Wyoming can be intimidating. Truthfully if there is one piece of equipment that can make this adventure more successful, GPS mapping is something hard to live without.

Invest in some form of GPS technology right away.

Clothing also keeps improving and the choices are endless.

Willing to bet that a deer or an elk could care less what camo pattern you are wearing and probably don’t care how much you spent on your clothes. What does matter however is how comfortable you are. If you are covered in sweat and then shivering cold an hour later or soaked and wet, you will not be as resilient. In my career, I’ve sampled just about every major brand of clothing for hunting out west. This past season, I hunted exclusively with the Scheels exclusive Big Game Collection and I couldn’t be happier with both performance and price. High quality layering systems enable you to hunt harder for longer periods of time.

None of this matters, however if you don’t take good care of your feet.

For many big game hunts, your feet enable you to hunt.

Most of the better hiking boots like Kenetrek and Crispi require a break in period.

Break your boots in during the off season. Simply wear your boots whenever you can.

Could be mowing the grass or doing work around the yard. Many boots have a break in period that can be several miles but simply spending time in the boots Equipment like good optics and will help mold the boots GPS along with broke in and to your feet. This boot time comfortable clothing can increase your resilience as a hunter. also enables you Photo courtesy Tayler Michels to experiment with different socks.

Wear your boots and pack whenever possible when you hike as this will not only break in your gear but also get your shoulders and feet accustomed to your equipment.

Besides your confidence with your rifle and bow and the physical element of being in shape while wearing clothing and footwear that can support your ambition, something else to look at during the off season is good optics. If you plan on hunting out west, simply buy the very best optics you can.

Good optics like spotting scopes, binos and scopes can make or break your hunt. You can buy something to save money today, but the reality is that you are better off waiting and saving to buy something good or you just end up buying that item twice. (continued on page 44)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 27

However, there are some drawbacks with this type of shoe.

The first is going to be durability. Not in a million years will a pair of these stand up to the rigors of the mountains like a pair made of full leather with rubber rand option. This means you will be spending more money more often to stay in the game with your feet as you replace your footwear over and over. You lose two things here: longevity and the shoes staying waterproof. Once a cactus needle goes through your lightweight footwear, guess what? No more dry feet when it rains. A gaiter could help with this and with debris getting in through the tops, but you can only do so much.

However, it’s a give and take. Are the cons worth the pros?

For many they are. If not, let’s keep looking.

MID-WEIGHT All photo credits: Josh Kirchner

Battle Of The Boots

By Josh Kirchner Originally published at

www.goHUNT.com

was the month of February and I was a few miles into the II thigh desert looking for javelina. My hunting partner and hiked quickly through the rocky dry landscape that is Arizona,

peering through our binoculars as we went. This rugged terrain eats through boots much like wax melts beneath the hot flame of a candle. Up until this point, I had always gone the cheap route in terms of what boots to buy for my hunts.

After spending the day glassing for javelina to no avail, we decided to head back to the truck. On the way out, the whole sole of my boot came off and I was left hobbling through the desert. I remember cutting my shoelace and using it to strap the sole back to the boot for the walk back.

No longer would I skimp out on boots because of this.

With all of the types of boots on the market, choosing the right one for you can be a bit daunting. All of us are different in terms of our feet and what we need a boot to do for us.

Maybe you are an ultralight hunter who wants the lightest boot possible with minimal stiffness. Perhaps, you frequent the craggy mountains that sheep call home and need something much beefier. Whatever the case is, we all have one thing in common here: We need a good pair of footwear to carry us through our journey, no matter what that journey entails. In light of that, I am going to go through the different options we have out there for boots. Is one better than the other? Let’s find out.

ULTRALIGHT TRAIL RUNNERS

I am sure when you think of hunting, the first thing that pops into your mind is not “ultralight trail runners.”

Why in the world would someone actually wear a trail runner on a backcountry hunt or any hunt in general for that matter?

You are not alone in your thoughts here. Believe it or not, though, there are quite a few folks out there that really enjoy rocking these in the mountains. They are extremely comfortable, usually waterproof, lightweight and quiet.

This is great for bowhunters out there that prefer to not shed their boots on a stalk. An option like this is going to save you energy in the long run as well from not having to lift up a heavier option with every step you take. They also have a little to no break-in period, which is another plus.

28 | Hunting & Fishing News

Next on our list is what I like to call a “tweener.” A kind of hybrid if you will. They are neither heavy nor extremely lightweight but fall right in the middle of everything.

They are a great option for most people out there while offering much more support than the ultra-light model... I like to think of these as a heavyweight trail runner. I say that because they maintain the comfort of the ultralight option, but have an increased value in durability. They are a win-win.

Because they have a soft sole, they are going to be quieter than a boot with a hard sole. As you are traversing through rocky terrain, you will notice that these boots tend to wrap around rocks, rather than fight with them. There is much less resistance to the different terrains you will encounter, hence giving them the ability to make less of a racket.

They are great for bowhunters. I’ve successfully stalked animals in these many times. They offer little to no break in period as well.

So, are they perfect? No, unfortunately, they aren’t.

While these are more durable than the ultralight versions, some still fall short in this category. That isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but I can see how some folks might not be OK with that, especially after laying down the cash for them.

I have found that boots in this category will last about a year, give or take. I’ve also heard of people getting up to four years out of them, too. It really depends on how much you use them. Another drawback is going to reflect here first and that is waterproofing. Once the outside of the boot is compromised, your waterproof boot is no longer waterproof.

You might also notice that your feet sweat more in these than in the lighter options. With them being waterproof on top of more beefy, they are not as breathable. Worth it?

If not, let’s keep looking.

FULL LEATHER

A full leather boot with rubber rand on a hunter is a classic image to me. They have stood the test of time and continue to do so year after year. With this route, you are going to get the most out of durability, waterproofing, and support.

(continued on page 36)

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CHASING ANTLERS

Use Your Glass Early

Get out early in the season and drive around looking for elk. Figure out the winter range and glass for bulls.

Stay near the car or a long ways off and do not disturb the herd. Focus you efforts on areas you plan to hunt.

This is a great opportunity to see the bigger class bulls you will chase during the fall. If you are persistent, you may even watch a few drop their antlers.

Mark those spots and return when the elk move.

Take Your Dog

Photo lucagal depositphotos.com

Getting Out Early In Elk Country By Zach Lazzari Lazy J Bar O Outfitters www.lazyjbaro.com

hed hunting is a great way to knock off the winter cobwebs and stretch out your legs. It’s also a productive scouting S technique for the fall and you get the bonus of an early jump on your physical training. Hang your sheds as trophies, build custom furniture or give them to the dog as chew toys.

Covering some ground and hunting for these treasures is a great outdoor experience.

Know the Laws

Shed hunting is regulated and restricted in many areas.

Seasons are often used to protect game in winter areas.

Open day in these zones is often a competitive race to find the biggest sheds quickly. Check with your local fish and game to ensure you are legal before pursuing sheds.

There are three types of dogs when it comes to shed hunting.

Those who naturally find antlers, those who are trained to find them and those who could care less. Regardless, taking the dog for a hike while you shed hunt is fun and you might be surprised what your house pet finds.

Pattern the Landscape

Break the landscape down into small sections or a rough grid.

Work a tight pattern and scan with your eyes. Look for anything off or protruding. If there’s still snow on the ground, the contrast will help. Brown grass and tree limbs will camouflage a shed very well.

Practice Patience

Although spring is prime for finding the first sheds of the year, you can hike and search all summer. Cover ground, develop an eye for sheds and be patient. You will not always find a shed or a perfect set, but there are plenty of hidden gems to discover.

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32 | Hunting & Fishing News

Off Season Rifle Shooting Tips By Zach Lazzari

Kawdy Outfitters www.kawdyoutfitters.com Photo courtesy Ryan McSparran

he snow is piled high and big game seasons for most of T North America are on hold. Your gear is likely stored away and your desk is littered with notes on different hunts, outfitters,

license applications and other planning essentials.

Those hunts in the future will approach incredibly fast.

Maintaining a regular shooting practice schedule throughout the winter will elevate your skills and have you prepared well ahead of the hunting seasons.

Practicing in the off season is about much more than sighting in a rifle. You are building critical confidence, extending your range and training to really be a shooter. This means you will instinctively drop in position and know exactly where your shot will land when it counts. There is no better feeling than approaching a shot with the experience that removes any second guessing or uncertainty.

Monthly Minimum Range Visit At a minimum, a monthly visit to the range will keep you centered and on target.

Increasing the frequency of your shooting trips will however really stand to improve your game. Take the time to really become intimate with your rifle and how it handles.

Find the best rounds through practice and get yourself dialed on extremely tight groupings at the outer edge of your comfortable range.

After you have that normal shooting range producing consistent groupings, jump out to longer range shots just for fun. You may not need to use this skill while hunting, but knowing where you can place a shot at long distances is comforting. A shooting school is well worth the investment for . developing long range skills as well.

Dry Firing Rifles Making regular range visits is not always possible, but you can build some serious confidence through visualization and dry practice. The process involves shooting without any ammunition.

Before you begin a session of dry practice, check, double check and triple check that your rifle is not loaded.

Even so, always aim into a safe setting as a safety measure.

Dry practice against a real target like a decoy is ideal.

You can also simply hang a photo of a big game animal to help with the visualization and shot placement.

Focus on your shooting positions and setup just like you would in the field. Pay close attention to breathing and shot placement. Pull the trigger normally and visualize the shot being on target. You should be thinking about recoil and working through flinch patterns as well.

Spend twenty minutes visualizing shot scenarios while getting yourself positioned and setup on a target.

Do this once or twice a week and you will really develop and build confidence for the field. The practice also works well for bird hunters and shotguns.

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B&C AND P&Y:

POTENTIAL LARGEST HUNTER-TAKEN,

NON-TYPICAL WHITETAIL DEER

The Boone and Crockett Club www.boone-crockett.org

ccording to the Boone and Crockett Club and the A Pope and Young Club a whitetail buck taken during the 2018 Illinois archery season could be the largest

hunter-taken non-typical whitetail on record.

Bowhunter, Luke H. Brewster arrowed a buck from Edgar County, Illinois on November 2, 2018. Shortly after the harvest, photos circulated online stating it had a green score of 311.

After the required 60-day drying period and consultation with both scoring organizations the official entry score of 320-5/8 confirmed that it is only the 5th hunter-taken non-typical whitetail to exceed 300 inches in history.

Photo courtesy the Boone and Crockett Club

If verified at this score, the buck would be the third largest non-typical whitetail in Boone and Crockett and the new Pope and Young World’s Record.

The World’s Record and number two all-time non-typical whitetail deer recognized by B&C are picked-up trophies scoring 333-7/8 and 328-2/8 B&C points respectively, and were found in St. Louis County, Missouri and Portage County, Ohio. The largest hunter taken, and current number three All-time non-typical whitetail on record with B&C scores 312 and was taken by Stephen L. Tucker from Sumner County, Tennessee in 2016.

“To put Luke’s deer in perspective this deer could surpass our current World’s Record that has stood for 18 years by more than 20 inches,” said Eli Randall, director of Big Game Records for the Pope and Young Club.

The current P&Y World’s Record was taken by Michael Beatty from Green County, Ohio, in 2000 and scores 294 points.

The second largest on record is a deer taken in 1962 in Nebraska by Del Austin with a score of 279-7/8 points.

Using the Boone and Crockett Club system of scoring, the Pope and Young Club maintains the records for all archerytaken trophies. Boone and Crockett recognizes trophies taken by all legal hunting methods, as well as picked-up or found trophies.

The 38-point buck has a gross typical frame of 151-5/8 with 178-3/8 inches of abnormal points. After an accepted entry score, all potential World’s Record entries for each organization are verified by a panel of official measurers.

A panel of B&C and P&Y measurers is being scheduled next to verify the buck’s measurements.

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Clayton Miller with Rocky Mountain Bighorn. Photo courtesy Pope and Young Club

Pope And Young Club Names New World Record Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep During Special Panel Pope and Young Club www.pope-young.org

n Thursday, January 24th, the Pope and Young Club O convened a Special Panel of Judges in Sioux Falls, South Dakota for a potential P&Y World Record Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Clayton Miller’s massive ram is now the largest hunter-killed bighorn sheep with both Pope and Young and Boone and Crockett. The ram was shot in Pennington County, South Dakota on October 30th, 2018.

Measurers present at the Special Panel were Ed Fanchin, Stan Rauch, Ricky Krueger, and Justin Spring. With a final score of 209 1/8”, Clayton’s ram was confirmed as the new P&Y World Record Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep.

This ram surpasses the previous World Record Rocky Mountain ram shot by Todd Kirk in 1998 by almost 10 inches.

“The Rocky Mountain Bighorn sheep is such an American icon. To have the privilege to be part of a Special Panel of Judges to authenticate its final score was a special treat,” said Ed Fanchin, Records Chair for the Pope and Young Club.

“This ram exceeded the previous Pope and Young Club Rocky Mountain Bighorn sheep World Record by almost 10”, a record that stood for the last 20 years.

Congratulations to Clayton and the South Dakota Department of Game Fish and Parks for practicing sound wildlife management.”

“I couldn’t believe it when I got the phone call that my name had been drawn for the first and only Bighorn Sheep unit in the Badlands of South Dakota! I have been dreaming of the opportunity to draw a tag like this since I started applying religiously at the age of 12,” said Clayton Miller. “I went into this hunt knowing that there were some spectacular animals in the area, but it was beyond my wildest dream that I would be after the new Pope and Young Club World Record!...”

“Boone and Crockett would like to join Pope and Young in congratulating the hunter on his record-setting ram,” said Justin Spring, Records Director for the Boone and Crockett Club.

“In addition, we also would like to thank all those involved (both state employees and volunteers) in the restoration efforts bringing a robust population of bighorn sheep back to South Dakota. This is a true testament to the North American Model of Wildlife Conservation and a shining beacon of what can be accomplished with efforts and funds being dedicated to wildlife.”...

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Hunting & Fishing News | 35

Battle Of The Boots (continued from page 28)

FIT

This is hands down the number one thing to consider—no matter the boot. Spending the time actually going and trying on these different options to make sure they fit you right is going to pay off huge in the end. Proper fit is everything when it comes to boots. I would rather have a less durable, less waterproof boot that fit me than one that is the most durable and waterproof option out there, but that didn’t fit.

I would highly recommend that you go to someone who is qualified to fit you. This will give you a better idea of what options are going to be best for you.

SOCKS

There is a reason that guides and outfitters across the West gravitate towards this type of boot. They are in the field more than any of us, packing out animal after animal and need something that will withstand whatever is thrown at them.

Longevity is of no concern, especially if you take care of the leather. By doing so, you will just increase the life and waterproofing of the boot. I have heard of many hunters getting these resoled over and over again. Unlike the soft sole option, with these, you will not feel the rocks you are stepping on. That could be considered a positive or negative depending on how you look at it. A positive because they will save your feet from abuse. The negative? We’ll discuss that below. Simply put: these boots were built for the mountains.

What is not to like about these? It sounds like they cover the gamut with hunting footwear. Just like the others, there are cons that go along with the pros. The biggest one for me is comfort. These boots are going to be way stiffer than the others, which is going to make them not as comfortable as a soft sole option. In light of that, they are also going to require much more break-in time. So, if you do go this route, make sure that you spend the time before your hunt breaking them in. If not, you might be in for a world of hurt on the mountain. I’ve made this mistake before and it’s not fun.

Because of the stiffness, I also find it a lot harder to walk around. They do not conform to the shape of a rock, so your legs will get thrown to the right or left if you aren’t paying attention.

A lot of stumbling goes on here if you aren’t used to these.

Due to them not conforming to rocks, these are not going to be a good option for stalking. Plan on ditching the boots above that bedded buck.

When you do go and try on different pairs of boots, don’t forget to bring the sock you are going to plan on wearing with them. Doing so is really going to give you a better picture of how they actually fit. It doesn’t matter how they feel with socks you aren’t going to use in the field.

Another thing to mention on socks is I truly believe that most folks go too thick with socks. They are paranoid about their feet getting cold and naturally want a thick wool sock to pair with their hunting boot. This is especially true for late season hunts. I would urge you to try out a thinner option, though, particularly for western spot and stalk hunting.

I used to wear multiple pairs of socks when I was a kid and I would always get cold feet. Fast forward to present day and I really enjoy a very thin merino wool sock year-round.

I run the same sock in January that I run in August.

Low temperatures during January here in Arizona where I hunt sit anywhere from 10 degrees to mid-30s. Keep that in mind.

Doing this, I don’t have the cold feet problem any longer.

Probably, because my feet aren’t sweating anymore.

AFTERMARKET INSOLES

I wasn’t a huge believer in aftermarket insoles until I was faced with a boot that was giving me problems. Over and over, I kept getting what we call heel lift. This was because the boot didn’t fit me perfectly. It felt great on flat surfaces, but once we started climbing, that dream was gone. Something that completely fixed the issue for me was replacing my insoles with ones that have more depth. Doing so took up more room in the boot and did away with my issues. Aftermarket insoles seem to offer way more comfort and support than the ones that come with these boots. I’d strongly consider this—even if the boot isn’t giving you a problem.

IN CLOSING

WATERPROOF CHATTER

At first thought, I think it is natural for all of us to gravitate towards waterproof footwear. How could we not, right?

We encounter all sorts of weather, paired with creek crossings, etc. when we’re hunting.

It’s important to understand something about waterproof footwear, though.

They keep water out but also will keep water in. On more than one occasion I have heard of people complaining about how their waterproof boot wasn’t keeping the water out.

While this could be the case some of the time, it might not be all of the time. It might be an issue of sweat inside the boot, rather than water getting in. Having a good sock, along with airing your feet out during the day could alleviate this.

36 | Hunting & Fishing News

Photo credit: Jake Kirchner

So, out of the options we have discussed, which boot is the best? I think you have gathered up until this point that it is a very individualistic thing. We are just so different in how our feet are shaped combined with what we need out of a boot.

Some folks put comfort over support and some the other way around. There is no right way for everyone, except their way.

The only way to find that out is to get out there and try these on for yourself. Ask yourself what kind of terrain will you be in most of the time. How cold or warm will it be?

Are you backpacking? Whatever route you go, do your research and don’t cheap out as I did in the beginning.

Your boots are your tires and, without them, well, getting around is going to be a challenge. I am happy to report that since I have changed my ways with boots I have not had to walk back to my truck with my sole tied on via shoelace.

GEAR REVIEW

Osprey Volt 60 Men’s Backpack The Volt 60 is ideal for hauling

moderate to heavy loads in the backcountry. With 5 inches of torso fine-tuning and expandable Fit-on-the-Fly hipbelt wings, the Volt 60 can accommodate one and all, with a breathable AirScape backpanel that offers a snug fit and their LightWire frame that transfers heavy loads to the hipbelt for maximum stability on every type of trail.

Quickly store your trekking poles without taking off your pack with the Stow-on-the-Go trekking pole attachment.

A zippered sleeping bag compartment provides easy access, removable sleeping pad straps allow for external gear attachment, and a removable integrated raincover keeps everything dry. Zippered hipbelt pockets keep snacks and other trail essentials within reach.

Osprey Viva 50 Backpack

Traditional style meets present-day function

in the women’s specific Viva 50. Five inches of adjustment in the torso and 3 inches of extension in the Fit-on-the-Fly hipbelt wings make for a highly adjustable solution for women of many sizes. Capable of carrying moderate to heavy loads, the Viva is equipped with an AirScape backpanel for a close-to-body carrying experience that’s remarkably breathable. A LightWire frame transfers the weight of heavy loads to the hipbelt so that the pack stays stable over any type of trail.

An included removable raincover prevents your gear from getting wet, a zippered sleeping bag compartment offers an easily accessible storage solution, and zippered hipbelt pockets keep trail snacks within reach. Outside the pack, the Stow-on-the-Go trekking pole system allows you to pack away poles without taking off your pack, while front panel daisy chains and removable sleeping pad straps offer external gear attachment. Excellent comfort and function no matter if you’re a backpacking veteran or it’s your first time in the backcountry.

Bull of the Month Location: Stevens County, WA • Date: 1994 • Hunter: Kent Brown

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Hunting & Fishing News | 37 2/20/2019 11:14:21 AM

IN THE KITCHEN

All photo credits: Josh Kirchner

THINGS TO BEAR IN MIND WITH

BEAR MEAT

By Josh Kirchner

Originally published at www.goHUNT.com

f there is one animal out there that I get the most flack for filling tags on, it’s black bears. I’m not even talking about the anti-hunting community either. That is a whole different ball of wax. Many times, it is fellow hunters who are telling me things like, “What did you do with it? You can’t eat a bear.”

Every time I hear something like this I cringe. However, once I educate these folks on how good bear meat really is, they are singing a different tune. They can’t resist once I start telling them about recipes I use and how they wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between bear and beef.

That is something that I will stand by day and night too.

When cared for and prepared in the proper way, bear meat is exceptional.

Here are some things to “bear in mind” with what I think is the most misunderstood meat.

I

IN THE FIELD CARE

We’ve all heard this to some degree. The secret to good table fare doesn’t start in the kitchen but in the field. Bears have a nice thick hide on them and if you don’t remove it in a timely manner, you risk the well-being of that precious meat. Keep this in mind on all bear hunts, but especially during early fall hunts when it can be pretty warm out. I have made the mistake before of not getting to a downed bear soon enough. It wasn’t pretty once I got the meat home. That was a hard lesson and one that I hope you never encounter. On top of getting the hide off, meat quartered and hanging, you need to take the fat off.

Often, during the fall I am skinning not just hide, but fat.

There can be a few inches that rest on top of that meat, leaving the meat almost invisible from the surface.

Get as much of that fat off as possible in the field so you don’t have to do it at home. I actually use that rule for all game meat, not just bears. Game fat is unlike that of beef or pork fat and can taint the flavor altogether.

Bear fat

A side note about bear fat. Once you separate the fat from the meat, feel free to bring some of that stuff home with you.

You can render that fat down into cooking oil and use it to make all sorts of stuff. Cookies, pies, etc. I’ve never done this myself, but have friends who have done it with much success.

38 | Hunting & Fishing News

Once you get home, it’s time to start processing and packaging up your bear meat. Just like when you were in the field, make sure you get all of the fat you can off of the bear at home.

There always seems to be some hidden fat that I missed in the field.

Spend the time removing any hard connective tissue as well. Once you have done that, it’s time to figure out what you want to do with this stuff. With venison or elk, I think most of us are going to lean heavily on our steaks.

With bears, I am going to advise that you lean heavily on your roasts and grind. Bear backstraps do make for some good steaks, but you have to cook it well done, unlike venison or elk. More on that later. For this reason, I will cut my backstraps into steaks, keep big hunks for roasts, and grind the rest. You can also cube up those roasts and use them for bear stew, which is fantastic. Now, it’s time to package it. To encourage longevity, I will first wrap each piece of meat in plastic wrap very tightly. The more air you can get out of there, the better. From there, I’ll put that in a vacuum bag and vacuum seal it. By going through this process, I’ve never had meat go bad in the freezer.

As far as how to cook this meat, I will tell you that bear shines in slow-cooked dishes.

These are some tough animals, which is why I advised against cutting steaks other than from the backstrap. Stuff like chili, tamales, shredded bear, burgers, tacos and stew are going to make you love bear meat more and more. As long as you don’t approach it, thinking it will be similar to venison, you’ll be fine.

Remember: they are simply a different animal.

TRICHINOSIS

Here is that scary word that a lot of you have probably heard through the grapevine when it comes to consuming bears.

Trichinosis is something that we have lived in the presence of for quite some time. It is the reason that your grandma always “overcooked” that pork for the holidays. This parasite is commonly found in animals who consume other animals or carrion. It’s a nasty infection that none of you should ever want any part of and is easily preventable. All you have to do is cook your meat until it is well done. A meat thermometer is going to be your best friend here. A safe rule of thumb temperature that I use is 170 degrees. Wikipedia states that trichinosis is killed at 165 degrees in about 15 seconds.

I always opt on the higher side and have never had an issue.

TO SUM IT ALL UP

I hope that you now feel a bit better about going bear hunting and take advantage of the awesome protein that they offer.

Not only is the meat great, bear hunting is just plain fun.

It’s a great opportunity to get out in the spring and stretch your legs out or head out in the fall if you haven’t drawn that elk tag you’ve been waiting for. I was hooked on bear hunting after the very first hunt I ever went on. Just seeing a bear was breathtaking to me. Once that happened, it was all over, and they’ve had my attention ever since. Watching them zigzag their way along a brush-choked hillside is entrancing.

Most of the time, the country that they live in can be described in one word: epic. This brings me to my last point about bears.

Adventure is always expected. I think that is something that we all need and bear hunting offers plenty of it.

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Western Hunting: Your Workout Recommendations and

Y

Guide

SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com

ou now have a western hunt booked — possibly for the first time — or you’re returning for another unforgettable experience. Either way, you need to make sure your fitness is in check; and to be fair, hunting is hard and western hunting is even more difficult. From your gear to your emotions, everything can be put to the test during a western hunt.

Even with the help of modern day technology, your fitness level is the only tool that can give you a leg up. While you may have skated by without fitness prep for your other hunts, we advise that you take your physical condition into consideration for your upcoming western hunt.

Before we go any further, it’s worth mentioning that we are not physical trainers, fitness professionals, or nutritionists; these are simply suggestions based on what has worked for us and our clients, historically. Please consult your physician before taking on any fitness or diet plan.

Fitness begins with your diet. As you’ve likely heard, abs are made in the kitchen. We recommend eating intuitively while fueling your body with nutritionally-dense foods.

This includes a well-balanced diet of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, and fiber. Eating enough-calorically-is also very important. We don’t recommend cutting or counting calories; rather, we suggest choosing whole, unprocessed foods. If you’re wondering if your intake is satisfactory to fitness improvements (i.e. muscle gain), we recommend checking in with your doctor for his or her recommendations on food quantity. Once you have your food aligned, physical activity follows suit.

Keep in mind that a body in motion, stays in motion.

Exercising can seem very overwhelming, but once you get started, it’s easy to keep going. A basic Google search will give you hundreds of workouts. It can seem daunting and discouraging. That’s where we come in.

Being experienced in the field, we understand what your off-season prep should look like. Note: all western hunts are a bit different, so this is simply an all-encompassing general guideline.

Western hunting and mountain hunting mean full-body fitness; you’re not sitting in a blind all day — you’re out hunting hard and scavenging for those animals.

Ultimately, you’ll get the animal you’re looking for because your fitness level allows you keep up with them.

Therefore, it’s not about muscle gain, it’s about conditioning and endurance.

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Cardio. You can achieve your cardiovascular goals in numerous forms of exercise, and most of them don’t require a gym. Plan on a cardio activity five days a week for 30-45 minutes and build on that time as your hunt gets closer.

Running, biking, elliptical machines, stair climbers, or even getting outside and hiking are great options.

Another suggestion is to wear a weighted vest, backpack with weight, or something to simulate the weight of your hunting pack about 1-2 days per week of cardio.

Weight Days. Integrate weighted exercises 3-4 days a week.

You can do this in addition to cardio (or on non-cardio days).

Squats, lunges (reverse, forward and lateral), pushups, shoulder press, and core and stability exercises are easy to do at home or in a gym. For squats, you’ll want to get to 90 degrees, tracking your knees over your ankles, and really push up from your heals; this will engage your quads, hamstrings and glutes efficiently and effectively. It will make those days in the saddle more comfortable — we promise.

When it comes to lunges, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wb_R09tujo&feature=youtu.be for form and your basic how-to. When you get to your pushups, we recommend that you keep your hands wide to accentuate pushing from your chest; with narrow hands, you’ll push from your triceps. With a shoulder press, you’ll want to hold the weight at your shoulders and push overhead.

Finally, core and stability workouts are absolutely critical when hunting across uneven terrain and on horseback.

This is especially true when you are traversing the rough terrain with a heavy backpack.

For a workout routine with weights, talk to a trainer at a local gym and let them know of your goals.

Be sure they’re aware of the time frame you need to peak your fitness at, they’ll create a Photo courtesy SNS Outfitter & Guides plan tailored specifically for you.

If you do not have a gym membership or you don’t have a gym near you, here is a 12-week workout inspired from Outdoor Life.

Week One: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Go for a brisk 45-minute walk, preferably including up and down terrain.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Spend 30 minutes climbing up and down the local bleacher stairs (or a nice steep hill).

Take regular short rests. Incorporate 3 sets of 10: squats, lunges, pushups, shoulder press, and core.

Week Two: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Add short stints of jogging to your walk.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: same 30-minute routine, just cut down on rest time. Incorporate 3 sets of 10: squats, lunges, pushups, shoulder press, and core.

Week Three: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Begin pushing yourself, walking less and jogging more.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Same 30-minute routine.

Incorporate 3 sets of 12: squats, lunges, pushups, shoulder press, and core.

Week Four: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Try to jog the majority of your 45 minutes.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Try to spend the entire 30 minutes climbing your stairs or hillside, alternating between five squats and five lunges every few minutes. Only rest at the ten and twenty-minute marks.

Week Five: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Warm up, then alternate two-minute sprints with walking to catch your breath. 45 minutes.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Wear a pack with 20 pounds of weight in it during your routine. Incorporate 4 sets of 12: squats, lunges, pushups, shoulder press, and core.

Week Six: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Back to jogging, but pick up the pace a bit.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Try to get through your routine — hiking with pack and five crunches/lunges every five minutes — without stopping to rest.

Week Seven: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Back to sprinting/walking. Push yourself.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Add five pounds to your pack (total 25), same routine.

Week Eight: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Trade the jogging in for a smooth relaxed 45 min run. (Faster than jogging, but not a sprint) Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Same routine as week seven — but carry a more cumbersome item to simulate a bow or rifle.

Week Nine: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Sprinting and walking. Keep pushing.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Wear a pack with 20 pounds of weight in it during your routine. Incorporate 4 sets of 12: squats, lunges, pushups, shoulder press, and core.

Week Ten: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: More smooth relaxed running.

Keep it strong.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Wear a pack with 20 pounds of weight in it during your routine. Incorporate 4 sets of 20: squats, lunges, pushups, shoulder press, and core.

INCORPORATE A BEAR CRAWL. Week Eleven: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Back to walking and sprinting, you should be traveling well.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Wear a pack with 25 pounds of weight in it during your routine. Incorporate 4 sets of 20: squats, lunges, pushups, shoulder press, and core.

INCORPORATE A BEAR CRAWL. Week Twelve: Mon/Wed/Fri cardio: Running, just keep it strong and relaxed.

Tues/Thurs/Sat muscular: Do a lighter modified routine from week eleven, let those muscles feel recovered and ready to go for your hunt next week.

If you have any additional fitness questions, or questions about a hunt with SNS Outfitter and Guides, please visit http://huntwyo.com/contact.

You can also have a free brochure sent to your home by visiting http://huntwyo.com/brochure-request.

Happy fitness and happy hunting!

Hunting & Fishing News | 41

8 Rifle Shooting Stances You Should Know!

(Hunting and Tactical) (continued from page 23) Finally, you want to use as few muscles to support the gun as possible. Use your bones as support whenever you can.

Muscles in tension aren’t as stable as your skeletal structure.

Each of the following stances will offer some tips on how to achieve this.

1. PRONE If at all possible, you want to get prone to achieve the most stable shot. Tall grass and hilly terrain can prevent you from going prone, though. It also takes the most time of all positions to assume.

Prone shooting involves laying belly-down on the ground with the rifle in front of you. Rest your elbows on the ground and keep the rifle’s butt in the pocket of your shoulder. It should be angled so most of your Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson mass is in line with the bore.

Rest your head on the stock rather than using your neck muscles to hold it in place.

If it’s comfortable, you will want to keep your legs straight and splayed out. There should be no tension in your toes.

In fact, there should be no tension anywhere. Relax and let your bones support the rifle.

Some people are uncomfortable with both legs straight.

In this case, bring your strong-side knee forward.

Your legs, spine, and rifle should all be parallel.

2. SITTING If brush or tall grass means you can’t go prone, then sitting is the next best position.

There are two ways to sit depending on which is most comfortable.

If you can, sit cross-legged on the Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson ground with your support-side knee pointing at the target. Bend forward at the waist and rest your elbows next to your knees. They should sit in the fleshy part of your leg, not on the bone itself.

A slightly easier sitting position is to sit with your knees up and feet flat on the ground. Again, lean forward with your elbows on the meaty part of your legs, right next to your knees.

3. KNEELING While sitting and prone positions are the best for stability, sometimes you only have a moment to get into position for the shot.

That’s where the kneeling stance comes into play.

Drop your strong-side knee about 90 degrees to the target and sit on Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson your foot. Rest your support-side elbow just in front of your support-side knee, so the knee pushes into the bottom part of your upper arm.

Keep your strong-side elbow close to your side for a little extra stability, pull the rifle into your shoulder with that hand, rest your head on the stock, aim, and take the shot.

42 | Hunting & Fishing News

4. OFFHAND

Sometimes, you just need to stand up while you take the shot.

This is called offhand shooting and, because it is so unstable, it should be avoided if at all possible. There still may come a time where you have Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson to stand or pass up the shot, however, so make sure to practice this position.

Stand with your support-side shoulder and hip pointed at the target with your feet a little wider than shoulder-width.

Thrust your hip toward the target and hold your support-side elbow against your body right above the hip.

The rifle ideally should rest atop your support hand.

If your rifle has a magazine, then rest that atop your palm.

Otherwise, you may have to hold your fingers vertical and rest the rifle atop them to get the gun high enough to aim at your target.

5. FIGHTING STANCE An alternative to the normal standing stance is the Fighting Stance. As its name suggests, it’s better for fast-paced situations where you may have to engage multiple targets.

You’ll frequently see it at 3-Gun competitions, though it’s normally not the best choice for hunting.

However, if you’re hunting dangerous game such as bear or boar, then adopting the Fighting Stance can help you rapidly and accurately put several rounds into a charging animal!

This stance is more dynamic than the other ones. Square up to the Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson

target so you are facing it straight-on.

Stand with your strong-side leg forward and your support-side leg at a 45-degree angle, knees slightly bent. Put them far enough apart for you to feel your center of balance drop.

Lean forward into the gun.

Pull the rifle into your shoulder with your strong hand.

Unlike all of the other stances, your support hand takes a more active role. Firmly grasp the rifle’s forend as far forward as possible. Lock your elbows if you can (or flex them if you can’t) and hold the muzzle in position.

Keep both elbows as close to your body as possible.

The rifle should be under tension. Your sights may shake a bit, but that’s okay. This stance is for rapid shots at close range, where this loss of accuracy is minimal. Change your aim by moving your whole torso, keeping your arms still.

This stance effectively allows you to drive your gun and maintain absolute control, even during rapid fire.

6. THUMB OVER BORE You’ll get even more of a benefit with a C-clamp grip, also called “thumb over bore.” Holding a rifle this way lets you redirect the recoil, so rather than a muzzle jump the recoil travels straight back. You can recover from this type of recoil faster for better follow-up shots.

Just make sure not to go thumb over bore on a bare barrel!

You don’t want to burn your hand. This grip is best for tactical rifles with handguards that cover all of the barrel...

7. USING SUPPORTS You can use something to support your rifle for even more stability.

Bipods are the classic choice because they move with the gun and can be used anywhere. There are two main ways of using a bipod: free recoil and pre-loading.

(continued on page 44)

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8 Rifle Shooting Stances You Should Know!

(Hunting and Tactical) (continued from page 42)

Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson

Free recoil is when the gun sits on the bipod and you apply as little pressure as possible when pulling the trigger.

This works better with a monopod, sandbag, balled-up hat, or even your fist under the buttstock.

Pre-loading the bipod involves pushing forward into the bipod before firing so the recoil pushes it back into a neutral position. Personally, I prefer pre-loading. It’s also more effective if you do not have any support for your buttstock.

When using a bipod you do not need to use your support hand to hold the front of the gun. Instead, keep it by the buttstock where it can help adjust the rear support (if any).

Shooting sticks are another great way to fulfill the function of a bipod even while in sitting or standing positions. When using shooting sticks, you should hold them at their junction with your support hand.

A soft object such Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson

as a backpack or rolled-up jacket also makes for a great expedient forward rest.

You can rest the rifle on harder objects, such as tree limbs or walls, but you should not have the rifle directly on the hard object. That would cause the gun to bounce, potentially spoiling your shot. Instead, put something soft in between your gun and the object you’re using as a rest to soften any bouncing.

8. THE HASTY SLING Another way to improve your rifle’s stability is to take advantage of a sling.

This can be used in any position, from prone to standing.

You can also get into position in seconds if you’re well practiced.

You need a sling on Photo courtesy Andrew Jackson your rifle that attaches at the buttstock and near the front of the forend.

Take your support arm and put it through the sling.

Move it out and above, then rest the rifle on that hand.

Your forearm should be pushing against the sling as well.

This position pul ls the sling toward your chest, putting tension on the rifle. Adding this tension increases stability and accuracy in unstable conditions.

44 | Hunting & Fishing News

Think About Hunting When There Is No Hunting (continued from page 27)

There isn’t a great market for used entry level optics when you decide to sell your old spotting scope. Good optics reduce eye strain and give you an extra half hour of light in the mornings and evenings. These two advantages simply allow you to find what you are looking for.

The greatest challenge to hunting out west is simply trying to find an animal you want to target. Truthfully with optics, you generally get what you pay for...

Make sure you’re spending your budget on gear that creates actual opportunities and not on stuff that just fills your closet. Compared to even fifteen years ago, we have many choices. Too many choices for any reasonable person to know everything about. Make it a hobby to get your hands on gear this offseason and ask a lot of questions.

When the offseason rolls around we need to look back on the past season to reminisce about the high points but also remember the close calls and moments we wish we could do over again. These are the moments that will show us what we need to work on before next season. Now is the time to look ahead to next season and set new goals.

Focus on becoming a better version of ourselves than we were yesterday. There should be nothing to hold us back but ourselves. This past 2018 hunting season had many personal achievements but ultimately, the more I hunt the more mistakes I make along the way. Lessons have been learned and now it is time for reflection and improvement.

PHEASANT GROUNDNUT STEW

By Lindsey Bartosh RECIPE a 12 Gauge Girl www.huntingandcooking.com

Ingredients: 2 lbs pheasant, still on the bone 3 tablespoons cooking oil 1 onion, diced 6 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 tablespoon coriander Photo courtesy Lindsey Bartosh 1 teaspoon mace 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne, plus more as desired 15 oz can roasted crushed tomatoes 1 quart stock of choice, chicken, vegetable, water, wild game 1/2 cup almond butter, creamy 12 oz bag frozen okra Instructions: Heat heavy bottomed soup pot over medium high heat.

Drizzle in oil. Pat dry pheasant, still on the bone, and separate into four quarters. Season with salt and pepper. Brown the pheasant in small batches in the preheated oil, about three to four minutes per side. Set pheasant aside. Leave drippings in pot. Reduce heat to medium on pot and add diced onions.

Cook for three to four minutes. Add chopped garlic and cook additional two minutes. To onions and garlic, stir in tomato paste, coriander, mace, ginger, and cayenne.

Add the can of tomatoes and stock to the pot. Bring to a rolling boil then reduce to a simmer. Add the pheasant back to the pot, cover, and simmer for 90 minutes.

Check pheasant at 90 minutes. If not falling off the bone, cook until meat is tender. Pull pheasant from pot and shred.

Add shredded pheasant, almond butter, and okra to pot.

Cover and cook ten minutes. Serve over rice if desired. Enjoy!

Team Work For Bowhunting Mule Deer In The High Country (continued from page 9)

Photo courtesy Matt Bateman and www.bowhunting.net

I was thrilled to hear this as I was starving and wanted them to bring me some grub! Kip, Duane and Trent could have easily stayed in camp for the afternoon, but their willingness to come over and help out ended up paying off huge.

Trent headed to meet Cody in the bottom of the canyon while Duane and Kip headed high to meet me. While heading my direction, Duane and Kip caught a couple of bucks on the move. They quickly set up Duane and he made a great shot on the bigger buck of the two. I was shocked when I heard Kip and Duane hoot and holler a half-mile from my location.

Duane had just tagged out at 2:00 in the afternoon in the middle of August. I can’t help but think that if Duane hadn’t had the attitude of working as a team and being willing to come help us, he would have never been presented with that opportunity. I couldn’t have been more excited for Duane.

Not being able to resist checking out Duane’s buck, I headed their way to share in the excitement. After high fives, pictures and a quick quartering job, we packed Duane’s buck back to camp.

Duane’s success was shared by all of us and the fire was lit under us again to head back and make a move on the big typical we had put to bed. During the hike back, I excitedly described the big typical to the other guys.

Trent mentioned that he just hoped he could get a chance to see the big buck. I jokingly told him, “Don’t worry, I’ll let you see him close up and even hold him.” We all shared a good laugh!

When we put together a game plan to go after the big typical, there was no selfishness or fighting over who went where.

We had just one goal in mind. The three of us with tags were put in the best possible positions with the hope that one of us might get a shot at this awesome buck.

Trent worked in from below, Cody headed high and I opted to set up in the draw that we had seen the buck cross earlier.

I had also seen the buck across in the same spot one month earlier on a scouting trip.

Our plan worked perfectly; which, believe me, is not the norm when it comes to hunting big bucks. The big buck had been bedded in the heavy timber and knew something was up.

His attempt to sneak out of there brought him right to me.

I caught a glimpse of antlers headed my way through the trees and I knew that this was it. I was going to get a chance at this bruiser.

I am normally a cool customer, but my heart was pounding out of my chest. This was what I had worked so hard for – Just a chance at a buck like this. As the buck got close, I tried to calm myself but my nerves were getting the best of me.

Just before the big buck cleared the brush below me, I drew. He came out perfectly broadside right where I had previously ranged a rock at forty yards, but he was still on the move.

46 | Hunting & Fishing News

My heart nearly stopped. I thought he was not going to stop and give me a shot. Finally, the buck froze when he sensed that something wasn’t right. As I settled my fifty-yard pin on his shoulder, my nerves calmed and instinct took over.

Hours of practice paid off. My arrows flew true!

As I watched the big buck run off, I knew it was done.

The Grim Reaper Razortip did it’s job as I watched the big buck drop.

Excited doesn’t even begin to describe my emotions.

I’m sure we sounded like a war party as my war cry was answered back from all directions from a group of passionate hunters that had played such a huge part in me being successful.

This brings me to the best part of hunting together as a team.

As Kip, Duane, Trent, and Cody got to my location, it was hugs and high fives all around.

Photo courtesy Matt Bateman and www.bowhunting.net

Five hard-core hunters and tough guys dancing around hugging each other! We all felt like we had accomplished something special. It didn’t matter that I was the one putting my tag on the great buck, We did it as a team.

IRD THE BOTTOM LINE

There are dozens, if not hundreds of volunteers, conservation groups, state workers, and birding enthusiasts who pour their time and efforts into collecting this data — not to figure out how many birds should be in the woods come hunting season, but rather to have a database to look back at which reflects trends in rough bird numbers based on things like weather, habitat changes, hunter participation, and so forth.

These numbers aren’t a forecast for hunters. I know that some of us uplanders like to think that the bird world revolves around our dog’s noses, but I assure you, it does not.

The numbers shown in the surveys released every year are estimates, are in no way 100 percent accurate, and are not designed to show precise statistics. Too many hunters live and die by the bird counts, but the DNR warns that the numbers “should be interpreted cautiously.”

The bottom line is this: if you enjoy bird hunting, by all means do it. Don’t look at the drumming counts before deciding whether or not you’re going to buy a license. Look at yourself and decide if you enjoy a leisurely walk in the woods with a buddy, a family member or a furry friend. Ask yourself if you love the smell of a wet aspen forest floor, or running your fingers through thigh-prairie grass as the sun is burning the last bit of color from the sky.

I promise that you won’t find my bird dog sitting on the couch reading bird surveys. And the longer I hunt, the more I realize that I have a lot to learn from my bird dog.

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