Western Hunting & Fishing News - August 2021 Issue

HUNTING & FISHING WESTERN

NEWS

AUGUST 2021

The Key To Successful Shooting...

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Here are a few tips for evaluating your next buck to avoid ground shrink.

1. Look for Mass

If a buck has it all – mass, width, height, lots of points, and it’s a mature deer – it’s time to lock in your sights and make the shot count. Photo credit Trace G., Lil’ Toledo Lodge.

Guide Logic: 5 Tips for Field Judging Trophy Whitetails and Mule Deer

By Kevin Wilson Guidefitter www.guidefitter.com

If antler size – and the almighty score – are a priority, then we really don’t want to make a mistake when we decide to hit the switch. s hunters, we wait all year for another chance to fill our A deer tag. Some of us are privileged to take multiple bucks in a season, but many of us have just one kick at the

can. If antler size – and the almighty score – are a priority, then we really don’t want to make a mistake when we decide to hit the switch. Venison is great, but when you have only one antlered deer tag in your pocket, the last thing you want is to approach your deer and find his headgear is smaller than you thought.

Genetics are everything in the world of a whitetail or mule deer. Strong genes produce heavy-racked bucks. You and I may have slightly different ideas about what constitutes a true trophy, but when it comes to high-scoring bucks surpassing Pope & Young or the Boone and Crockett Club minimums, mass adds up the numbers in a hurry.

This mule deer has it all: Mass, width, height, The more mass, deep forks, and even a few sticker points make it a high-scoring trophy buck.

the better the antlers will Photo credit Kevin Wilson.

score. Indeed, mass is the

first thing I notice.

When we talk about mass, we’re referring to the thickness, or girth, of the bases and how it carries that weight all the way through the main beams and points. For comparison, main beam circumference measurements between 3 and 4 inches are common in areas that are well-managed i.e., with healthy age-class structures and decent genetic strength. When they measure 5 inches or greater, you’re looking at some serious mass. If main beam lengths exceed 25 inches and – even better – if they carry that weight consistently, you’re probably looking at a heavy hitter.

(continued on page 24)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 5

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FOLLOWING BLOOD TRAILS IN ARCHERY SEASON

By Zach Lazzari Table Mountain Outfitters www.tablemountainoutfitters.com

any of the Table Mountain archery antelope and mule M deer hunts are based from strategic blind locations.

The opportunity to sit tight while trophy bucks come within valleybankhelena.com

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The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 18 Issue 4 Cover Photo: EEI_Tony|depositphotos.com

6 | Hunting & Fishing News

range is ideal for archery hunters. After taking the shot, following blood trails to recover the animal is an important skill and is not easily done in the western terrain.

Our hunting guides follow blood trails every year and they’ve seen a wide range of situations unfold. When following a blood trail with your guide, pay attention and don’t hesitate to ask questions. This will be a great opportunity to learn!

As you think about following blood trails this archery season, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

After the Shot

Immediately after taking the shot, sit tight and nock another arrow. Take the time for observation and pay close attention to the animal. Can you see the fletching from the arrow?

How did the animal react? Is another shot opportunity present?

If the deer or antelope does not run on impact, it does not necessarily indicate a bad shot was made. Nock another arrow and take another shot if the opportunity is present.

It can end things more quickly and make for a faster recovery.

If the animal reacts and moves out of range, glass the animal for signs of blood. You may see where the shot landed and have an idea if it will result in a quick and clean kill.

Get in touch with your guide!

If and when the animal leaves your view, be patient.

These can be painfully long moments to wait. But hang tight until your guide arrives.

Depending on the situation, we’ll wait anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour before we begin following the blood trail. Unless you can clearly see it drop from the blind, hold tight. The archery season usually means hot weather and we will do everything in our power to recover the animal as quickly as possible. The best thing you can do is to pay attention to the animal’s movements and take good mental notes on the situation.

Start Tracking

When we begin tracking, the blind will act as a point of reference for the shot. Walk to the area where you think the hit took place and move slowly, looking for blood, fur and the general disturbance of tracks. Be cautious not to cut tracks and blood with your own feet. If you’re able to recover the arrow, it will reveal clues about the shot placement.

An entire arrow, covered in blood is ideal and means it passed through. A broken arrow likely wedged between the ribs or shoulders and snapped off but may have penetrated vital organs.

The color of blood can also offer clues as to where the arrow penetrated. Lighter, pink coloration means you hit the heart or lungs. If the spray is heavy, look in the immediate vicinity for the animal. The fast blood loss will lead to a quicker death. A lighter spray may indicate penetration through a single lung and the animal may have traveled a bit farther.

GEAR UP FOR ARCHERY SEASON! Serving The Lewis & Clark County Archery Community

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Darker colored blood could indicate a liver or gut shot and it will take some time for the animal to expire. Proceed with caution and focus more on glassing to locate the animal lying down. At this point, it’s important to avoid bumping the animal from its bed. If needed, your guide will help you carefully plan a stalk to make a follow-up shot.

Hitting muscle tissue will leave lighter colored blood and rather than spray, it will fall in droplets. This is a worst-case scenario and may indicate a wounded animal. We will take it very slowly, marking the blood locations. Your guide may also want to stop and glass to try and find the animal in a bedded position. At this point, we are looking for a stalk opportunity to take another shot.

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While the excitement and adrenaline of a close-range bow opportunity can leave you breathless, it’s important to practice patience and thoughtfulness through the entire shot process and the following minutes. The observations you make immediately following the shot can help you and your guide tremendously when it comes time to recover the animal.

About Our Wyoming Bow Hunts

Here at Table Mountain Outfitters, we don’t just offer a few token bow hunts. We are passionate archery hunters.

We offer incredible bow hunts for antelope, mule deer and elk.

To learn more about these hunts or about our adventures, please take a few minutes to explore our website at www.tablemountainoutfitters.com or call us at 307-632-6352.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 7

How To Set The Perfect TreeStand For Bowhunting Deer

By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com Photo courtesy www.bigdeerblog.com

Five Tips For Setting Safe And Effective Tree Stands:

A

solid tree about 15 inches to 20 inches in diameter is great. It is easy and safe to get your arms around as you set steps, climb and hang a perch.

1. Once you’re up, a tree as wide as your body breaks your silhouette, but is thin enough so that you can turn and look around for incoming deer, and twist, draw and shoot if you have to.

2. Once you’ve chosen a tree for a stand, back up 50 yards or so, bend and look up into the top of it from a deer’s perspective to see which height and angle provide the best backdrop and cover.

3. Plan on hanging a stand 17 to 20 feet. That’s plenty high enough to stay above the eyes and noses of deer, but low enough so that you’ll feel solid, safe and comfortable. Also from that height, when a buck passes by broadside, you have a good look and shooting angle at his heart/lung vitals.

4. If you’re right-handed, set a stand so that the prevailing wind hits the left side of your body (vice versa for southpaws). That enables you to draw your bow with little movement when a buck shows up virtually anywhere 180 degrees in front of your stand.

5. Once your stand is set, sit down and look around (make sure you’re harnessed in) then stand and do the same. Lift and draw your bow. Saw or prune any limb or leaf cluster that might grab a bow limb, knock an arrow off the rest, etc. All you have to do now is wait for a buck.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 9

Gear Aid and Grangers, that are designed for outdoor gear.

This process should begin with cleaning. I use Nikwax Tech Wash, which is a detergent that’s safe to use on rain gear.

This cleans the blood and any other grime off of my hunting rain gear.

Once the rain gear is clean, it’s time to revive the waterproof finish.

I use Nikwax TX Direct, which comes in a wash-in and a spray-on version.

Again, no matter which re-waterproofing product you use, be sure to follow the instructions on the bottle for the best results.

All photos credit Ryan McSparran.

How And When To Re-Waterproof Your Hunting Gear

By Ryan McSparran Caribou Gear Outdoor Equipment Co. www.caribougear.com e-waterproofing your hunting gear, clothing and boots R should be a regular part of your pre-season checklist.

Before the next big hunt, take some time to get your gear cleaned, waterproofed and ready to rock.

What needs re-waterproofing? The most critical items include your rain gear, boots, softshells and anything else with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish – this can include hunting pants, gaiters and gloves. You may also consider washing and renewing the DWR finish on your sleeping bag and other down-filled gear.

The DWR finish on any piece of outdoor clothing will eventually fade. Even your rain gear, which has a waterproof membrane, relies on the DWR finish to allow that membrane to breathe and function properly. Remember when a piece of gear was brand new, and the water would bead up and roll right off the surface? That’s what we’re looking to renew.

As you prepare for a new season of adventures, here are a few tips for re-waterproofing your hunting gear, clothing, boots and even down-insulated items: Rain Gear How often you clean and re-waterproof your rain gear depends entirely on how much it has been used or how dirty it gets. If your rain gear stayed in your backpack for the majority of last season, you can probably run with it for another year. Blood, mud, sweat and body oils are all things that will impede that DWR finish. If your rain gear was heavily used last year or if it got significantly dirty, it’s probably time to wash it and renew that waterproof finish.

When washing rain gear, only use cleaning products that are designed specifically for garments with GoreTex or any other waterproof/breathable membrane.

Follow manufacturers instructions when available.

I use Nikwax products but there are a few others, including

10 | Hunting & Fishing News

When your rain gear is clean, dry and sporting a new DWR finish, store it in a cool, dark and dry place.

In fact, one of the keys to longer lasting hunting gear is proper storage.

I like to hang my rain gear – and all my hunting clothing in a plastic wardrobe closet in the basement where it’s dust-free, temperature controlled and not subject to direct sunlight.

Softshells Any hunting garment that isn’t a hard shell (rain gear) but has a DWR finish, gets lumped into the “softshell” category.

This usually includes softshell jackets and many hunting pants. These are items that are water resistant, but do not have a waterproof/breathable membrane like GoreTex. Like rain gear, the frequency with which you wash and re-waterproof your softshell gear depends on how much it has been used and how dirty it gets. Typically, I treat my rain gear once per year unless it gets very dirty on a foul-weather hunt. My softshells I tend to wash a bit more often. For example, hunting pants get bloody more often.

They might need a wash after every hunt. Whenever that’s the case, go ahead and get them clean and give them a fresh coat of water-repellency.

Renewing the DWR on your softshells will allow precipitation to bead up and roll off, just like when the item was new.

You might be amazed at how well a used piece of gear can perform when it’s clean and re-treated.

Just like rain gear, treating your softshell items is as easy as following the manufacturer’s directions or the instructions on the bottle. Again, I begin by washing the items with Nikwax Tech Wash, which is safe to use on technical outdoor apparel.

When the items are clean, I then renew the DWR with Nikwax Softshell Proof. This product is designed to renew that water-repellent finish on softshell gear. Like the TX Direct for rain gear, it comes in a wash-in and a spray-on version. There are also other options available from companies like Gear Aid and Grangers.

The most important thing is to follow the instructions for whichever product you choose.

Once it’s clean, re-treated and totally dry, store it in a safe place along with your rain gear.

Hunting Boots Your boots are undoubtedly one of the most important pieces of hunting gear you own. Boots can make or break a hunt. Wet feet, cold feet and blisters can end a hunt in a hurry. While you shouldn’t buy into the idea that fancy-schmancy hunting gear will make you a better hunter, having high-performing gear will keep you comfortable and in the field longer. And that certainly translates to more success. Sometimes, the best hunting weather is the nastiest weather. If you can stay focused and comfortably hunt through it, you give yourself an edge. Therefore, I’d argue it’s worth investing in quality hunting boots and taking very good care of them.

I wash and re-wax my boots after every single trip. Leaving mud, blood and other grime on your boots is corrosive.

Keeping them clean and waterproof will allow them to last much longer. And just as importantly, it will keep your feet dry and comfortable on the next hunt.

Before waxing my leather boots, I leave them out overnight to dry after being washed. When they are clean and totally dry, apply a liberal amount of boot wax and rub it in with your fingers. It’s a messy job, but you want to rub it in to all the corners and seams. If you live in a dry climate like we do here in Colorado, you may find that the leather will soak up a lot of wax.

Continue applying wax until it’s saturated. Then, let the boots rest for a couple of hours to soak up as much as possible.

Finally, take a clean rag and wipe off all the excess, bringing the boots to a nice polish.

Lastly, I’ll put the laces back on – this is a great time to check the condition of your laces. If needed, order a new pair now.

Store your boots in a cool, dry place where they’re not in direct sunlight. I keep mine on shelves in the basement along with the rest of my hunting gear.

Accessories: Gloves, Hats & Gaiters While we’re on this cleaning and re-waterproofing kick, check your small, accessory items like gloves, hats and gaiters.

Any item that has a softshell exterior face, a waterproof membrane or a Windstopper-type material probably has a DWR finish that needs to be renewed occasionally.

These accessories are quick and easy to clean and re-waterproof. A little bit of effort can make a big difference when it means having warm, dry hands and extremities.

I have a pair of Kenetrek mountain boots that I’ve hunted in for six consecutive seasons. Between scouting, guiding and my own personal hunts, they’ve probably seen close to 250 days of use. They are still in good shape and extremely comfortable. And they should be. An expensive pair of hunting boots is a big investment. And it’s one worth taking care of.

After every hunt, carefully clean your hunting boots. Start by removing the laces. Then rinse the boots with lukewarm water. If you have a utility sink in your basement or laundry room, that’s perfect. If you use the kitchen sink, just be sure and clean up carefully before your spouse sees it… speaking from personal experience here.

I will often use a boot-specific cleaning agent to get the boots very clean. Nikwax footwear cleaning gel is perfect for this. Scrub around the seams, crevices, and the tongue to get all that dirt and debris out.

Like everything we’ve covered previously, begin with a wash. If you’re running a load of laundry with Nikwax Tech Wash already, throw in those gloves, hats or gaiters.

Once they’re clean, it’s time to renew the DWR finish.

For small items like these, the spray-on treatments are quick and easy. I’ll apply Nikwax TX Direct to my gaiters and any other hard shells that have a waterproof membrane.

On hats, gloves and other small softshell items, I’ll spray on the Nikwax Softshell Proof.

Usually when I’m running a load of laundry with other hunting gear items, it’s easy to do these accessories right alongside the rest.

Down Insulated Gear Down-filled gear items like sleeping bags and puffy jackets can be the most intimidating pieces of gear to clean and treat. Folks are often afraid to wash these items for fear of ruining them. However, quality down gear should be cleaned on a regular basis. Just like your outerwear, down becomes dirty from body oils and extended use. This will inhibit its performance. Sleeping bags and jackets will eventually lose their loft. And the DWR finish on the exterior of these items will eventually wear away.

Down of course comes from waterfowl. So don’t be afraid to get these items wet. Just like a goose or duck constantly preens its feathers, your down needs to be cleaned too.

Even gear with hydrophobic down can and should be cleaned. There are just a few things you’ll need along the way.

When the boots are clean, it’s time to treat or re-waterproof them. Full grain leather boots like Kenetrek boots benefit from a wax or leather conditioning treatment. I always use Kenetrek Boot Wax. If you’re re-waterproofing a pair of synthetic boots, use a product that’s designed for that purpose. Nikwax Fabric and Leather proof is great for boots that have a combination of materials.

The most important piece of equipment is a large, front-loading washing machine. Never use a top-loading washer on your down items. They can get snagged in the agitator and become damaged. If you don’t have a front-loader at home, you can go to a local laundromat.

(continued on page 33)

Hunting & Fishing News | 11

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Recommendations for fishing the Baitfish-Image spinner are as follows: In clear water, use natural baitfish colors like Silver Shiner, Perch and Rainbow Chub. In lightly stained water, Gold Shiner, Yellow Perch and Firetiger patterns work best. For dark stained/muddy conditions, go to larger blades (#4, #5, #6) in eye-popping fluorescents.

When trolling or retrieving a spinner, vary your speed by pumping the rod tip and with “S” turns and erratic stop-and-go movements. When a bite is detected, hold the rod steady and slowly drop the hook towards the fish before setting the hook. It’s often a 5 count. Let ‘em eat it… then stick it to ‘em!

“Baitfish Image Spinners have been my staple for spinnin’ up walleyes for years,” said Northland pro, Brian “Bro” Brosdahl. “There are perch patterns, shiner patterns… many different colors of blades and there’s always a color to get the walleyes to bite whether it’s on a glacial lake or during tournaments when I’m fishing Oahe, Erie or Green Bay. Baitfish Image Spinners are dominant in all these lakes and regions. They’re pure genius when you think about it— how you can go out to just about any body of water and troll with a crawler, minnow, or leech and catch consistent walleyes every time.”

Bro continues: “And don’t skimp. Having plenty of colors and varieties of the Baitfish Image Spinner is recommended.

That’s an extra advantage to catch fish no matter what.

You don’t want to show up with your favorite color and be a one-trick-pony. I recommend anglers buy the kit to ensure they have the right tool for the job no matter where you fish.

You never know when the fish are going to want pink or perch patterns or gold. It doesn’t take much change in the spinner blade to create a fantastic day on the water.”

Bro says that all in all, the Baitfish Image Spinner is just a producer. “I don’t go anywhere without a full assortment ready to deploy at a moment’s notice,” said Brosdahl. In the guide game or the tournament game, it’s game on, either as a two-hook harness, single hook rig or the available 18 piece kit.

12 | Hunting & Fishing News

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Madison Nackos of Spokane hoists a 24-inch Westslope Cutthroat Trout she hooked from Priest Lake, securing a new catch-and-release state record.

Photo credit Madison Nackos.

Priest Lake Produces New Record Westslope Cutthroat Trout

By Martin Koenig, Natural Resource Program Coordinator Idaho Department Of Fish and Game

ongratulation to Madison Nackos of Spokane, C Wash. on setting a new catch-and-release state record from Priest Lake. Nackos hooked the monster cutthroat trout while fishing Priest Lake on May 29.

The fish measured 24 inches long, beating the previously held record of 21 inches set by Tom Weadick in 2020.

The Westslope Cutthroat Trout is a native trout that is common in both lakes and streams throughout Idaho’s Panhandle Region, along with other regions of the state. Catch-and-release state records are based on total length, and are kept for each of the four subspecies of cutthroat trout found in Idaho, including: Bonneville, Yellowstone, Westslope and Lahontan cutthroat trout.

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Telephone 406-883-2888 Ex. 7294 or 406-270-3386 Applications will be available: Zimmers Tackle-Pablo, Westland Seed & Sports-Ronan, Walmart-Polson, Sportsman’s Warehouse-Missoula, FWP-Missoula and Kalispell, Sportsman & Ski Haus-Kalispell, Bretz RV & Marine-Missoula, Bob Ward & Sons-Missoula, Snappys Sports Senter-Kalispell, CSKT NRD Offices-Polson We ask that all boats from out of the Flathead area be inspected for AIS.

Special permits available for the south half of Flathead Lake available wherever fishing permits are sold.

Madison Nackos releases a 24-inch Westslope Cutthroat Trout back into the cool waters of Priest Lake, clinching the current catch-and-release Idaho state record for this species. Photo credit Madison Nackos.

The mayflies hatch early, caddis hatch in the evening and many stoneflies like the nocturnal half-wing variety are after dark only. Unless you are fishing ice cold mountain streams and lakes at high altitudes, focus your late summer efforts and catch the action while skipping the sunburn.

3. SALVATION THROUGH HOPPERS

Photo credit Ryan McSparran.

4 Tips For Late Summer Fly Fishing

By Zach Lazzari Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com

Tired of 6x tippet and difficult trout sipping spinners?

Hoppers bring the bigger bugs back into action and a good hopper year makes for incredible trout fishing.

Walk the grassy riverbanks and pay attention to the number of grasshoppers clicking their wings and springing from the ground. When they are present in reasonable numbers, give the foam patterns a try.

Windy days are ideal, especially after the first frost of the year. An early frost can debilitate the grasshopper wings and they will fall into the water when the wind blows. Get ready for some explosive strikes if this scenario comes to fruition.

he late summer and early fall season is a special T time on the water, especially for trout fishing.

The fish are busy eating, packing on calories before the waters cool and winter arrives. Brown trout are especially hungry because the spawn is approaching and they need energy to reproduce.

The game has changed however and the big stoneflies and mayflies from springtime are long gone. Smaller mayflies, caddis and stoneflies dominate and some hatches create extremely picky fish holding in tricky waters.

Here are a few quick tips for your late summer fly fishing adventures: 1. READING SUMMER WATER During the early summer season, trout are often found pressed tight against the banks. But late summer conditions open more habitat. Trout spread into different lies. Look for mid-river boulders, heavy riffles and highly oxygenated water. The heavy stuff is critical habitat on the hottest of days and the turmoil of fast pocket water becomes preferred habitat.

When a hatch takes off, the flats and easy paced water become popular for fish sipping emergers or spinners at first and last light.

2. SKIP THE HEAT Concentrate your late summer fishing efforts during the early morning and evening.

There is no reason to grind out 8-hours in a drift boat when you can catch more fish during the last two hours of daylight.

The mid-day slump is very real and catching fish in the heat is more difficult.

14 | Hunting & Fishing News

Photo credit Ryan McSparran.

4. CHASE NEW SPECIES Summer is ripe with opportunities at different species.

Looking beyond trout opens a ton of fishing. During especially hot years, hoot owl restrictions actually limit trout fishing hours. Look to pike, carp, bass, panfish and anything else that will eat a fly this time of year.

Pike and bass are pure predators and they are widely distributed with habitats and ranges often overlapping trout. In Montana, Colorado and the upper midwest, this is not uncommon. Take advantage of the lesser targeted fish and you just might find a new favorite species and some lesser pressured waters to enjoy each summer.

Zach Lazzari is a fly fishing guide and an outdoor writer based in Montana. Zach has fished and guided in Alaska, Colorado and Patagonia. Zach is also the blogger behind The Busted Oarlock

Tadpole Or Guppy Weights?

By Mark Romanack Fishing 411 www.fishing411.net o you fish Tadpole Divers or Guppy Weights? This is D a question I’m asked commonly. My answer surprises some folks when I simply say both!

The fact is while both Tadpole Divers and Guppy Weights achieve similar trolling goals, I tend to use them for different purposes and at different times.

Photo courtesy www.fishing411.net

TADPOLE DIVERS Tadpole Divers are unique in that they achieve their depth two ways. Because these divers are negatively buoyant, they sink and achieve depth based on the size used, trolling lead selected and also the trolling speed. The Tadpole Diver however also features a diving lip similar to a crankbait that allows these devices to achieve greater depths than other in-line trolling weights.

One of the biggest advantages of the Tadpole is they can be used to reach significant depth without having to play out excessively long trolling leads. Any avid troller will tell you that it’s critical to target fish at the depths they are found, but it is also important to achieve those depths with the least amount of trolling lead practical. Keeping trolling leads manageable speeds up the process of both setting lines and fighting fish.

Photo courtesy www.fishing411.net

This simple illustration shows one of the more common ways that Tadpole Divers are used. In addition to spinner rigs like pictured here, Tadpole divers fish exceptionally well in combination with spoons for targeting walleye, trout and salmon.

Tadpole Divers come in four sizes including the No. 1, 2, 3 and Magnum. When targeting fish in the top 20 feet of the water column, I depend mostly on the No. 1 size when trolling at speeds of 1.5 MPH or less and the No. 2 size when trolling at speeds up to 2.5 MPH. The No. 3 gets the nod when I’m targeting fish in the low to mid 30 foot range and the Magnum is useful for targeting fish as deep as 50 feet. The Precision Trolling Data app provides comprehensive depth data for all four sizes of the Tadpole Divers.

The second advantage of the Tadpole Diver is the unique trip mechanism. A simple cross-lok snap is tied to the fishing line and attached to the tow arm of the Tadpole. When the snap slides into the elbow of the tow arm the diver engages and will dive much like a crankbait. When a fish strikes and is hooked, the snap slides to the forward position on the tow arm and the Tadpole is transformed from a diving weight to an in-line weight.

This simple and flawless trip mechanism allows anglers to fight the fish instead of the trolling weight. For most trolling applications I recommend using a fluorocarbon leader about 60 to 72 inches in length for fishing Tadpoles.

I routinely use Tadpoles for fishing spinner rigs for walleye, trolling small spoons for walleye and also for trolling spoons in the spring time when targeting coho salmon and brown trout.

GUPPY WEIGHTS Guppy Weights can be fished either as an in-line weight with a leader attached to the back of the Guppy or as a Snap Weight by adding an OR16 Snap Weight Clip.

The Snap Weight option allows the Guppy to be placed on the line anywhere between the lure and rod tip.

Using the Snap Weight option allows anglers to separate the weight from their bait or lure. This option is critically important when fishing in clear waters where fish tend to be more spooky.

Guppy Weights come in several sizes including 1/2, 1, 1.5, 2 and 3 ounce models. The 1/2, 1, 1.5 and 2.0 sizes are included in the Precision Trolling Data app.

Because Guppy Weights achieve depth based on their weight, leader length and trolling speed these in-line sinkers are most efficient at slower trolling speeds.

(continued on page 38)

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All photos courtesy Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com.

Tips For Streamer Fishing

From a Boat

By Zach Lazzari Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com

race yourself. Literally. Fishing streamers from a drift boat B or raft is fast, furious and a ton of fun. The techniques are not overwhelming or complex and the style is typically

aggressive. Use your lean bar and get a stable position so you can focus on the the fishing without tumbling overboard.

The elevated vantage point also provides a cool visual perspective. You will see fish chase, swipe and attack your streamer. Don’t set the hook until they actually eat and clamp down on your fly. In some cases, fish will actually knock it down before turning back to eat.

FLY ROD AND LINE CHOICES You could get away with a 5-weight fly rod, but a 6 or 7-weight is ideal. An 8-weight is overkill for most trout waters in the lower 48 states but there are places where it remains a good option. I’ve run a 6-weights and 7-weights from Alaska to Patagonia successfully.

Floating lines work well from the boat when combined with a weighted streamer. You want the fly to drop six inches in a hurry. Bugs tied with dumbell eyes and coneheads are a good fit for the floating line. The floater is ideal for hitting the banks on a fast retrieve. It’s also nice when you plan on transitioning between nymph and dry fly rigs throughout the day.

I like to keep one dedicated streamer rod in my boat with a sinking line. It’s always set up and rigged to fish streamers only. I use one of two sinking line types for this rod.

The first is RIO’s InTouch StreamerTip. The line is nice and stiff and the sink rate is perfect for most boat situations.

It penetrates the surface quickly but doesn’t drop like a rock. The sink rate is nice for getting in the zone without dropping out of the zone and hanging on bottom too quickly.

This makes it easy to fish fast and moderate pace retrieves off the banks.

The second is Cortland’s Compact Sink series.

This one drops a little quicker, making it the perfect line for aggressive retrieves, deeper water and water resistant flies like those with a deer hair head. I have a 240 grain paired with a fast action 6-weight and it’s an all around awesome setup. The running line is especially nice. It doesn’t kink and shoots smoothly.

16 | Hunting & Fishing News

WORKING VERBALLY WITH THE ROWER Working as a team makes you a more effective angler from the boat. It’s not uncommon for the rower and angler to butt heads and become frustrated when they are not communicating.

Let the rower know how you want to fish the streamer so they can make adjustments and compensate for the style of fishing.

If you are not sure, ask them to put you in position and coach you on the following common approaches to streamer fishing.

BEATING BANKS When the fishing is hot, beating the banks is a killer technique. You will know within 20 minutes if this style is suited to the conditions as fish will visually chase and slash at your flies. The technique is simple. Smack your streamer against the bank and retrieve. Sometimes waiting 1-3 seconds for the fly to drop helps. Experiment with the retrieve speed until it clicks. Typically you will cast perpendicular or slightly behind the boat for this style.

SWINGING IN FRONT Swinging from a boat works well when you have a well defined run and seam line. The rower can hug the slower inside of the upper seam to hold a steady line while the angler casts into the heavy current and swings into the seam. The faster sinking line is ideal for getting down in this situation. You can let the fly hover and essentially back-troll or retrieve and re-cast.

FISHING BEHIND THE BOAT Running behind the boat is extremely effective. I will actually have a single angler sit on the back seat while leaving the front empty to really work tight against deep, undercut banks.

This requires advanced rowing skills as you stay tight to the banks while looking far ahead to plan for sweepers and danger.

The fast sinking lines work well here as you want to get deep in a hurry. Plan on losing flies, it’s part of the game.

I run a 2-3 feet of 8-10 pound fluorocarbon off the sink tip.

Cast directly behind the boat, let it sink and pack the boat slightly faster than the current to run the fly right against the deep bank. The angler should twitch the rod tip and retrieve intermittently to add action while maintaining contact. Keep the fly down in the zone for as long as possible. Half your hook set will be on logs and rocks but you have a good chance to connect with a big trout as well.

FLY ROD RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FISHING STREAMERS FROM A BOAT Mystic Rods offers some killer options for throwing streamers from a boat. One of our favorite streamer rods is the M Series 10’ 3” 6-weight rod. This rod has the backbone to deliver big flies, yet enough touch in the tip section to play big fish in fast water. Plus, the extra length is ideal for fishing from a boat.

Alternatively, check out our Reaper X 6-Weight, for incredible performance at a price that’s really hard to beat. Finally, you may even consider our 7-Weight Tremor saltwater fly rod, an incredibly versatile option that performs just as well from a drift boat as it does on a skiff.

Zach Lazzari is a fly fishing guide and an outdoor writer based in Montana. Zach has fished and guided in Alaska, Colorado and Patagonia. Zach is also the blogger behind The Busted Oarlock.

F&G’s New Alpine Lakes Webpage Can Help You Plan A Summer Fishing Excursion

By Brian Pearson, Conservation Public Information Specialist Idaho Department Of Fish & Game ish and Game recently launched its “Alpine Lake Fishing” F webpage, where anglers can find all the information they need about fishing Idaho’s high mountain lakes.

Whether they’re looking for more information about where to go fishing, what kind of gear they will need, or background information about how Fish and Game biologists manage these fisheries, anglers can now find all of Fish and Game’s articles and videos about Alpine Lakes in one place on the agency’s website.

Idaho has over 3,700 alpine lakes, ranging in size from small temporary ponds to large lakes over a mile long.

Not all lakes have fish, but Fish and Game stocks hundreds of trout in many of them every year, and you can find out which ones have fish, and what species reside there.

Many of these lakes are in remote mountainous backcountry areas. Some have road access and others can be reached only by trails, or within wilderness areas that are only accessible by foot or horseback. However, some mountain lakes are also accessible using vehicles like motorcycles and ATVs.

Photo credit depositphotos.com

Detailed angling guide available for high mountain lakes in the Salmon Region Among the content available on the Alpine Lakes Fishing webpage is the “Salmon Region High Mountain Lake Angling Guide,” which was put together by fisheries staff in the Salmon Region and published in 2020.

While the guide goes into detail on 55 mountain lake fisheries in the Salmon Region, it also contains information that is pertinent to any prospective alpine lake angler.

A digital version of the guide can be downloaded from the Alpine Lakes Fishing webpage, and print copies are available at Fish and Game’s Salmon Region office.

To access the Alpine Lake Fishing webpage go here: https://idfg.idaho.gov/fish/alpine

Hunting & Fishing News | 17

Photo courtesy Hunting Gear Outfitters www.huntinggearoutfitters.com.

Tips To Care For Wild Game Meat On A Warm Weather Hunt

By Ryan McSparran Hunting Gear Outfitters www.huntinggearoutfitters.com lanning a hunt is more than just buying food and gear,” PCaribou Gear founder, Ted Ramirez recently commented.

“

“You have to prepare for the job.”

On early season hunts, caring for wild game meat can be a serious challenge. Warm weather, long daylight hours and insects all create challenging conditions for keeping meat in great condition.

“The longer it takes meat to cool, the higher your risk of spoilage over a shorter period of time,” Ted added.

“Gamey meat is contaminated meat. If it tastes gamey, something went wrong with your field handling.”

On your early season hunting adventures this year, here are some tips to help you come home with better tasting wild game meat: 1. Come Prepared with Ice in Your Cooler The best thing you can do for your meat during periods of warmer weather is to get it in a cold cooler immediately.

Of course timelines will vary, depending on how far you are hunting from camp or your vehicle. But no matter where you’re hunting, or how remotely, be prepared with a cooler that’s already filled with ice.

“Start with a large enough cooler with plenty of ice,” Ted explained. “On a long hunt during hot weather, you may need to drive into town and refresh your ice after four or five days. If possible, it’s well worth the effort. Because the more quickly you’re able to get the meat on ice after the kill, the more easily you can avoid any spoilage.”

If you have a large chest freezer at home, fill gallon-sized plastic jugs with water and freeze them before your hunt.

These will last longer than bags of ice. Make sure you leave a few inches of head space, since they will expand in the freezer. And be aware that it can take several days for a gallon of water to freeze completely. Don’t wait until the night before your hunt.

When you load up for your hunt, place the frozen jugs in your cooler and close the lid. Then, avoid opening the cooler until you’re ready to use it. If possible, you might even bring a separate cooler for groceries so that you can avoid opening your meat cooler constantly.

18 | Hunting & Fishing News

2. Know the Primary Risks for Spoilage Before you begin, take some time to consider the greatest risks for spoiling meat. Of course warm temperatures and flies immediately come to mind. But consider other factors that can encourage spoilage.

“With an animal on the ground, the first thing to consider is the hide” Ted commented. “We occasionally hear a hunter tell us that they don’t use game bags. They simply remove quarters with the hide on to keep the meat clean. This makes us cringe. Even in cold weather, the insulating power of a deer or elk hide is tremendous. Failure to remove the hide immediately is a recipe for gamey meat.”

Next, consider the form in which you’ll pack out your meat.

Typically, loose meat like backstraps and neck meat will be the first to spoil. When you place loose meat into a game bag, it forms a ball that prevents air from circulating around it. This is also true of boned out meat. When the weight of boneless meat presses itself against the bottom of a game bag, it embeds dirt, hair and other debris and prevents circulation.

Whenever possible, pack out bone-in quarters and cover them with loose-fitting game bags to allow maximum circulation. Of course, it’s sometimes necessary to bone-out meat on very remote hunts. In these situations, do everything you can to promote circulation and then get the meat to a cooler as quickly as possible.

3. Use High Quality Game Bags Ok, we’re biased. But this is exactly why we spent nearly a decade researching, designing, and perfecting Caribou Gear Game Bags. Our bags are highly breathable, lightweight and extremely durable.

Stocking-fit game bags will embed the dirt and hair into the meat. After it dries, you’ll be forced to trim it, causing more loss of meat. The wide mesh on these bags will also allow flies to land on your meat.

We’ve seen several companies offering nylon game bags, similar to a sleeping bag stuff sack, windbreaker, or tent material. Please know this: nylon bags do not breathe.

Using a nylon game bag would be only slightly better than using a trash bag – which by the way, is a bad idea.

Not only are trash bags non-breathable. They are also treated with chemicals that are certainly not safe for human consumption.

Our game bags breathe like cotton, offer the strength of a synthetic fabric, and promote excellent moisture management. They are loose-fitting to promote circulation. Our Magnum Pack Series offers the widest fit. For a lighter weight option on backcountry hunts, our High Country Series is slightly smaller. And for those situations when boned-out meat is necessary, we offer our Carnivore III pack.

4. Use a Tarp to Keep Meat Clean and Dry A tarp laid on the ground may be used to place un-bagged meat in situations when you’ll be boning it out. Otherwise, we always recommend immediately covering it with a game bag, and then placing it on a tarp to stay clean and dry.

“With your animal on the ground, be ready to place your meat in game bags as soon as it comes off the animal,” Ted recommended. “Then, you can place it on a tarp to keep the bagged meat clean while you continue working.”

Back at camp, we also use tarps to care for game meat.

Hang a tarp over your meat to keep it dry, and to provide shade. However, make sure that a tarp is never lying directly on top of your meat. This will inhibit circulation.

Always suspend the tarp above your meat pole.

(continued on page 36)

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Hunters in western Montana have an additional 612 acres of land to utilize since the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation teamed up with a conservation-minded family in western Montana.

The acreage is now part of the 10,389-acre Garrity Mountain Wildlife Management Area located west of Anaconda in Deer Lodge County.

It provides spring calving and elk winter range, plus prime habitat for whitetail and mule deer, moose and bighorn sheep. Additionally, it includes nearly one mile of riparian habitat along Warm Springs Creek, which contains westslope cutthroat and bull trout as well as other fish species.

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Jordan Carter with his bull elk. Photo courtesy Vince Lindgren.

The Perfect Hunt

By Vince Lindgren

another September archery season? In terms of the Jareust ongoing pursuit of the “perfect hunt” where all the cards actually stacked in your favor, that’s what this hunt

consisted of.

Last September of 2020, I set out on my own to harvest an elk whether it had antlers or not. There was a time when all I wanted was to fill the freezer with was an elk but only if it came packaged with a nice set of bone growth on top of its head. As the years passed on, it became less imperative that I collect a set of horns to satisfy my need to hunt and more about the hunt as a whole and it doesn’t necessarily need to come gift wrapped with a lot of bone-growth on top.

In September of 2020 just before sunup, I found myself two and a half miles up a canyon in a favorite spot of mine consisting of mature timber and a whole lot of brush on the slopes with numerous wind-felled beetle-killed logs crisscrossing the landscape. I set up twenty yards below a well-used elk transition trail utilized to move from feeding to bedding. The wind direction generally flows down the draw until about 10:00, giving me the upper hand over their amazing sense of smell. You can’t fool an elk’s nose!

This particular morning, I was privileged to have a small group of five cows and a calf transition through and stop above me to feed. As they did, one average sized cow stepped down in my direction to 18 yards and turned broadside.

I thought to myself ”If you’re not horn-hunting, it doesn’t get any better than this - no brainer”.

The next moment found my arrow accomplishing it’s intended purpose as I watched my cow sprint away through the brush and fall, then all was quiet.

Here’s where it gets interesting. I wanted to give my elk a little time to expire before following the blood trail however, I found my efforts hampered by suddenly becoming surrounded by more cows and calves, about twenty five to be exact! I didn’t want to ruin the area by spooking them so I soaked-in the moment and watched them carry-on their elk antics of mewing, making odd vocal sounds as if trying to imitate a bull’s bugle.

22 | Hunting & Fishing News

The calves frolicked and a cow or two would assert her pecking-order dominance and throw out a few front hoof kicks and mouth nips to keep the kids in line.

An hour passed before they began to disperse. Once clear, I gathered my pack and bow and began trailing my cow’s obvious blood trail but only to be stopped short by that beautiful sound of a mature bull bugling as it worked its way around through the brush and timber above me about seventy yards.

I couldn’t resist, I grabbed my grunt tube and began responding and bathed in the moment as he became so fired up, filling the canyon with his screams of dominance then destroying a large alder bush with his nice 6x6 frame!

Ten minutes later, he was done and stared me down as if to say “That’s all I have to say on the matter, now move on little bull” then he slowly moved off to his bedding area.

Long-story-short, I got my boned-out cow to my house around 7:00 p.m. then the next morning, found myself hiking back up the mountain with my good friend and hunting partner, Gary and his twenty year old son, Jordan.

We stayed out for the day and finally around 2:45, heard a distant bugle way down in the nether regions of the canyon while we rested in the shade of a large fir tree on top of the mountain. The location the bugle came from is not an area one wants to find themselves as it is very thick and over-grown with dense forage and timber, yet it’s dark, damp and cool, perfect for a bull’s bedroom. Our only hope was to try and coax him up to us and this would mean pulling him up the mountain about 80-90 yards after we had slipped off the top approximately the same distance.

With our responses to his bugles, we were able to get the bull interested enough to finally engage. That’s when we realized we may actually get a chance at this bull when it became apparent it was moving towards us as it piped up with a series of angry-sounding bugles!

Our ‘set-up’ consisted of me staying-put as the caller while Gary moved down forty yards and Jordan dropping another forty below him. I began my young-bull sounding bugling and threw in some cow and calf mews with Gary exchanging some cow calls with me. This really fired up the bull and when I began raking an alder bush followed by an intimidated rag-horn bull sound well, that was about all the bull could take as he screamed his dominance, urinated on himself and parked it twenty yards broadside in front of Jordan!

At that moment, time stood still and all was quiet then I heard the release of an arrow, the ‘smack’ as it penetrated the bull’s side and fifteen seconds later, a crash as the bull tipped over not thirty yards down the mountain!

At that moment time stood still and it was as if a light had been switched-on and I realized we had just experienced “The Perfect Hunt”. The sun was at our backs, making it difficult to be seen by the bull, the thermals were rising making it virtually impossible for our scent to be detected and one very hot bull throwing caution to the wind and coming to us as if we were reeling him in with a fishing pole!

It was an experience I will never forget and one I doubt I’ll have the opportunity to relive again. I can only hope.

Oh by the way, did I mention this was Jordan’s first elk with a bow?

Jordan (l) with his dad Gary (r) packing out Jordan’s elk.

Photo courtesy Vince Lindgren.

SOLID GLASSING TIPS WHEN YOU CAN’T USE A TRIPOD

By Cody Nelson Originally published at

www.goHUNT.com

All photos credit Brady Miller.

spend a great deal of time discussing the virtues of Ithat glassing with a tripod. There is no question in my mind doing so means spotting more game with less eye

fatigue or strain. Simply put, more time behind your optics with less movement means more game found. But what about when you are on the move and setting your tripod up is not warranted or efficient? Here are some ways to steady your optics without your tripod.

Trekking poles/monopod/walking stick or staff

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Because these are already out and in your hands they can be very effective and steady. You can hold your binocular with poles placed firmly in the ground or on top of a boulder or log. If the pole is extendable you may be able to rest your binoculars right on top of the handle. Note: I have used all of these at one time or another. Make sure you are careful when taking your focus off of these poles, especially if they are aluminum. The possibility of hitting limbs, rocks or clanking them together is real. Be slow and methodical.

Natural environment

Sometimes it’s easier to use what is right in front of you or in this case... behind you. If you are in steep country, lean into the slope.

If the slope is not steep enough, sit down and lay back with your pack. Use a boulder or log. Lean into a tree trunk or low branch. The idea here is to get contact with something to control your head, hands and body from moving enough in order to steady your binoculars.

Man made Fence posts make for a solid mount.

Even barbed wire will help (but be careful). If you are around your truck, lean into it. I like to lean across the bedrail. I don’t like the front hood because if the truck was running the hood puts off heat waves. If the wind is blowing, get off the body of the truck and lean your back into the tires, doing this could be a great way to glass in the shade too.

(continued on page 32)

Hunting & Fishing News | 23

Guide Logic: 5 Tips for Field Judging Trophy Whitetails and Mule Deer

(continued from page 5) Furthermore, the more points the antlers have, the higher the gross score. In the U.S. it’s common to reference the total number of points when describing a whitetail buck, i.e. a 10-point, 8-point, and so on. In Canada hunters reference the number of points on each side, i.e., a 5x5, 4x4, or other. Rare are the record book contenders that have less than five points on each side. Most racks need the extra tines to add up the score. The exception: when bucks have both incredible mass and tine length. The more scoreable inches on each point, the quicker the numbers add up. With non-typical bucks, extra points often extend from main beams, eye guards, drop-tines, and so on to increase the inches.

2. Wider is Better As far as field judging trophy quality goes, the wider the antlers, the better. Every buck is different. Some have main beams curving inward in a typical manner; others flare out.

But don’t be fooled by this. Take time to evaluate trophy potential, and notice whether the main beams just go out or if they go out and then curl back inward.

Most “cookie-cutter” 120-class bucks have an inside spread somewhere between 13 and 17 inches. This is easily assessed on northern and midwestern whitetails by determining if the buck’s main beams remain inside or extend outside the ears. Beams that extend outside the buck’s ears, fully extended and perpendicular to the head,

As a general rule, the wider the antlers, the better. Look for beams that extend outside the buck’s ears. Photo credit Kevin Wilson.

usually measure around 17 inches, give or take. I get real excited if a buck’s antlers span several inches outside his ears, and anything with an inside spread measuring 20 inches or greater really gets me going. With mule deer, trophy hunters generally look for bucks with at least a 22-inch spread. Cookie-cutter 160s generally fall in this category.

Find one with a spread over 26 inches and you’re likely on to a buck well worth a closer look, but width is just part of the equation.

3. Height Adds Numbers The taller the tines (or points), the better the score. Some bucks grow antlers with short and stubby tines; others grow them tall. Height (or long tine length) is another feature that increases the score. If any tines measure greater than 10 inches on a whitetail, you may be looking at a really big deer.

But remember: height is just part of the trophy equation.

Similarly, double eye guards increase gross inches, as well.

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,

Tine length is critical with mule deer, as well, but deep forks where the tines branch in a ‘Y’ formation really rack up the points, so to speak. Anything over 7 inches is worth looking at, but the numbers rise when those forks measure over 10 inches.

4. Typical Versus Non-Typical

Non-typical points like drop-tines and stickers add character and inches

to a buck’s gross score. However,

some scoring systems count these irregularities as deductions.

Photo credit Kevin Wilson.

A whitetail’s antlers are said to be typical if they have a normal-looking mainframe with regular tines extending upward.

The greater the symmetry between the left and right sides, the better it will score. Why? The Pope & Young Club and Boone and Crockett Club each have different categories for measuring and qualifying typical versus non-typical antlers.

Depending on the method used, differences (irregularities) may be counted as deductions.

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We’ve all heard the phrase “mass and trash.” Well, when it comes to non-typical bucks, if it’s heavy and has abnormal points, stickers, or drop-tines, that’s what we’re talking about!

I know several hunters that look for typical mainframe bucks only. To each their own, but few things get this deer hunter more excited than a non-typical buck.

5. Consider Age Aging bucks on the hoof is vital if you really want to manage the bucks in your area. Manage for genetic strength and age, and you’ll eventually grow big trophy-class bucks.

With both whitetails and mule deer, yearling to 2 ½ year-old bucks are noticeably slight in stature. While there are exceptions, they typically have either spikes or forks and often hang with their family group right through the fall and into winter. By 3 ½ years, bucks begin to fill out. Their antlers may be high and wide, but they are often still spindly.

Given the right genetics and conditions, some of these might appear to be trophy class bucks, but make no mistake: They haven’t reached their full potential yet.

Bucks are considered mature when they reach 4 ½ and 5 ½ years. They’re robust in shape, often begin to get a sway-belly, have wide shoulders and a burly face, and their antlers show considerable mass and configuration.

Any bucks surviving to 6 ½ years and beyond may still have antlers with good mass but the configuration tends to fail, often moving them gradually out of the elite trophy circle.

Body-wise, they can still thrive as long as protein-rich food is abundant and the winters mild. Just remember: Predators and the elements claim them one by one as the years pass, which means relatively few bucks make it past 5 years of age.

Conclusion As a professional outfitter, I always tell my clients that if a deer looks decent, it’s worth a second look. But if at first glance you’re blown away by its size and stature, it’s a shooter. My recommendation: If you immediately think it’s a monster, it probably is. If you have to think about it too much, it’s probably a nice deer but it may not be a great deer. If there’s no ‘wow’ factor at all, then passing could be a good move – especially if you’re looking for a wall hanger.

On the other hand, if a buck has it all – mass, width, height, lots of points, and it’s a mature deer – it’s time to lock in your sights and make the shot count.

Photo courtesy www.huntwyo.com

time! That long awaited hunt is right around Iaret’sthecountdown corner. On top of getting your daily exercise so you ready for the rigors of a western hunt, it is also time to

make sure your gear is up to standard. Next, let’s not forget the importance of getting your rifle, scope, and ammo tuned up and ready. It’s vital to carve out some time to hit the rifle range and make time to practice with the rifle you plan on bringing with you. Unfortunately too many hunters put this off as a last minute item and do not make the time to get plenty of shooting practice. Time spent at the range will hopefully result in a clean ethical kill.

The first step is to check out your weapon. Be sure all screws are tight and your rifle is cleaned throughly. Pick out, and buy plenty of ammunition so you will have more than enough to shoot at the range. Your scope needs to be clear, and the scope mounts secure. It may be well worth the time and money to have a reputable gunsmith give your rifle a once over.

Next, head to the rifle range, try to pick out a nice cool day or morning with no wind. Shooting during cooler conditions will help the rifle barrel cool down between shot groups.

When sighting in your rifle, shoot groups of 3 rounds letting your barrel cool down between groups. This will help considerably with accuracy. SNS Outfitter & Guides find it best to make scope adjustments in slow increments, again giving the barrel plenty of time to cool down between groups.

Be sure and shoot from a good bench with a rock-solid rest to obtain the very best results.

The final step is to get additional practice away from the shooting bench. You’ll want to practice shooting from the prone position using the backpack you’re bringing as a rest. In addition, shoot from a seated position using the shooting sticks you plan on bringing with you on your hunt.

SNS Outfitter, Sy Gilliland, will tell you, “by far the most common position we shoot from on our hunts is the sitting position followed by prone shots. Don’t skimp out and burn plenty of ammo.”

Practice, practice, practice! Your time at the range will pay huge dividends when it comes down to making that perfect shot on your trophy animal.

Hunting & Fishing News | 25

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5 Of The Best Early Season Elk Hunting Tactics Before The Rut

By Ron Elmer Originally published at

www.goHUNT.com

or some of us archery elk hunters, and to be more direct, F Utah elk hunters, we have to deal with hunting elk during the early part of August and early September. This means

hunting them way before the rut starts and, usually, before the bulls have gathered cows and may still be living with other bulls. Now, if you’re the guy that lives and dies for hunting elk while they are screaming their guts out and chasing cows all day, this can be a huge shock. Utah elk will prove to be almost impossible to hunt successfully like you would in states with later hunt dates. Over the years, I’ve had to find ways to hunt them without any rut action and without the use of calls or the opportunity of chasing bugles. Below I will outline five of my favorite tactics for early season elk hunting.

1. TAKING ELK UTILIZING SPOT AND STALK If you’re familiar with spotting and stalk mule deer hunting then this first tip could prove to be the way to get an arrow in an early season bull this year. With elk, hunting them using the spot and stalk method can sometimes be very effective and, in many ways, a lot easier than stalking a wise old muley buck. You can put them to bed and wait for the wind currents to steady by late morning or mid day and try your luck at arrowing him in his bed. I will warn you: this can be very hard to do with elk. As most elk hunters know, elk prefer the timber to bed in and it can prove difficult keeping the glass on them while they choose a bedding area. A different tactic that has proven to be more successful is stalking them while they are feeding.

Over the years I have found that I can get away with a lot more movement with elk than I can with deer. Elk are big animals and it’s amazing how focused they can get on feeding this time of year. If you can get the wind right and move fast you can get within bow range of a lone bull a lot easier than you can a feeding muley.

26 | Hunting & Fishing News

All photo credits Ron Elmer of BonedOut Productions.

2. LOCATING AND HUNTING TRANSITION AREAS One major opportunity to keep in mind with elk is they have to water everyday. Unlike deer that can go a day or two without water, elk are big animals and need water everyday.

This has proven to be a huge weakness for elk over the years. Typically, I will watch them for a day or two in order to find out where they are watering. After I have established a water source I will set up in their transition areas between water and bedding. This works for either coming off the water in the morning or heading to water in the afternoon.

When doing this, be aware of the wind. They will typically move with their nose into the wind and, if this is the case, do not get too discouraged. I’ll go back to the spot and stalk technique while they are feeding and I’ll possibly sit lower or higher on the mountain. After they have passed one direction or the other I will flank them while they feed to or from the water source.

3. SITTING A WATER SOURCE OR WALLOW If there is no possible way to sit a transition area or stalk them to or from a water source, I will inspect the water they are using as an option to lay in wait to arrow a bull during the midday hours.

This can get a little tricky if you’re hunting drainages or in steep terrain due to wind currents. Almost always, the wind will swirl over water sources. Whether it’s in a bottom of a canyon or in the middle of a ridge I have found it difficult, but not impossible, to sit a water source for a length of time without the wind giving up my position. This is not my first option, but it is possible to arrow a bull off of water if the situation is right.

If you’re aware of scent control and cover, it can be done.

4. SLIP IN EARLY AND HUNT BEDDING AREAS Bedding areas can be money if you have done your homework with some prior scouting and know where the bull or bulls are bedding everyday. I have taken advantage of this for more than just hunting elk. I have hung trail cameras in these areas and captured some amazing photos. These bedding areas are very effective for killing a good bull if you know that he is going to be there. You should realize, though, that you will most likely get only one chance at him and he will never bed there again. The beauty of these bedding areas is that the elk are usually on the water or feeding up a ridge in the morning.

If you set up your camp right you can slip in early as the sun rises and the elk will follow shortly behind. This has honestly been the most effective way I have harvested both cows and bulls during the early, and hot, dates we deal with here in some of the western states. (continued page 38)

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THE DRAW Knowing when to draw your bow is part of the unknown on every stalk. When will that time be?

Should you wait for the deer to stand (providing he is bedded) or get him to stand on your own?

With conditions being different every time it makes that moment very hard to predict.

Once I have made it to my stalking destination, I tend to wait for the deer to stand on his own.

I will evaluate where the sun is and if the deer is going to be in direct sunlight soon. If so, I will evaluate his body language, always have my arrow nocked, and keep my release attached to my D-Loop.

With practice, and a little know-how, you can maximize your chances of punching a tag on your next stalk. Photo credit Heartland Bowhunter. Photo courtesy www.vortexoptics.com.

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If I don’t think he is going to stand on his own within a few hours, I will either sit and wait or I will get him to stand on my own. Getting the deer to stand up and offer a shot can be very risky. It’s important to know where his vitals will be upon standing up because he won’t offer you much time to get the shot off. In this tactic I will first draw my bow, settle my pin in where I believe his vitals will be when he stands, make subtle distress calls, and wait for him to stand. Once he is up, he will only give you a couple short seconds to evaluate the source of the noise before bounding off. It is important to look through your peep and have your sights lined up prior to him standing, so when he does stand, you will only have to make a quick/short adjustment before releasing your arrow.

pot and stalk deer hunting can be very tedious and S often a tough task to pull off. There are a few tips and tricks I would like to share that have helped me with success in getting into range.

EYES ON THE ANTLERS When moving into range of the buck I keep constant eyes on his antlers to know which direction his head is facing. I want to know if he is looking at me as if he might’ve heard me or caught movement in my direction. Also, he may have fallen asleep, which means I can get away with a little more movement.

Keeping my optics strapped tight to my chest with a bino harness allows me to periodically glass the buck’s location and gauge how alert he is. Keeping his antlers in view while making sure his eyes are still hidden from my view has helped me significantly on many stalks.

WIND GUSTS Once within shooting range of a deer I use wind gusts to my advantage. Providing there is a significant wind, I will often wait for a good gust to move closer to the buck. I will study the leaves or grass near the buck to see if the wind is gusting around him, not only around me. Wind provides plenty of cover to sneak in an extra 20-30 yards, which can often be the difference between a punched tag and a blown stalk.

28 | Hunting & Fishing News

When you get to your stalk’s destination, make sure you’re nocked and ready to draw. Photo credit Heartland Bowhunter.

Courtesy www.vortexoptics.com.

This tactic doesn’t always offer a shot opportunity; however, it works well for me. Overall, the best thing to take away from my spot and stalk experience is awareness. ALWAYS be aware.

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STALKING ELK 101

By Jake Horton Originally published at

www.goHUNT.com

n today’s world, after watching all of the elk hunting shows Icalling on TV and YouTube, you may be fooled into thinking that an elk during September is the only or best option to

harvest a bull. While calling can be very effective depending on where, when and how you use it, stalking is another great technique and many hunters prefer to stalk over calling for a few reasons. Finding elk is often difficult to do on public land, especially land that offers ample or over-the-counter (OTC) tags. Elk are wild animals with unpredictable behaviors and I don’t like to take a gamble on what mood an elk is in on a particular day. Instead, I like to take matters into my own hands and get within bow range by paying attention to details. When moving in on a bull or elk herd you need to pay attention to the following details that will help make stalking elk more successful and, hopefully, help you harvest an elk this fall.

Elk behavior During any time of year elk behavior can be unpredictable.

These are amazing animals that have an uncanny ability to detect danger, change patterns and alter their behavior on a daily basis for unknown reasons. During September, bull elk are the most vocal and most responsive than any other time of the year. They are also the most unpredictable this time of year. In my experience, elk behavior and response to other elk sounds can change from elk to elk and from day to day. These behaviors are typically either a behavior of curiosity, fight, attraction or flight. For example, when an elk hears another elk in close proximity to his location cow calling, bugling or even walking, a mature bull will

often move in the sound’s directions for a closer look, showing their curiosity.

Sometimes, when a bull is territorial and hears what sounds like another bull bugling or raking, he will pin his ears back and move quickly towards the sound to fend off his territory. When a bull is gathering his harem or Photo credit Jake Horton. thinks he hears another cow coming his way, sometimes, he will go to meet her or bugle her direction in order to “woo” her into his harem. All three of these behaviors work out in favor of a hunter who is pretending to be an elk; however, the last behavior — flight — is the exact opposite of what every hunter wants. There are a lot of factors that cause a bull to respond to calling in with a flight behavior. A bull may be a non-dominant bull, he may have been called to and spooked by hunters or a bull may just use the flight behavior to stay alive. Though we will never know which of the reasons explain why a bull elk behaves a different way on a different day, I can confidently say a bull with a flight behavior is going to go the opposite way of your calling.

This is the worst case scenario for a hunter who is trying to call him in and can be super disheartening, especially after doing all of the work to find the bull.

Scent The number one thing, besides finding elk, that makes a stalk successful is paying attention to the details. The first and most important detail to pay attention to is the wind and thermal directions. Keeping these from heading to an elk can be very hard in the swirling winds of a high elevation basin, but you must try and pay special attention to where you are and where the elk is in comparison to the wind. If an elk smells you, 99 times out of a hundred it’s game over immediately. If, for some reason, he doesn’t spook right away, he will be on alert until he pinpoints a sound, movement or more scent from your direction and then he will be gone.

Sometimes the wind will switch mid-stalk and will require you to back out and try a different stalk if you don’t want to spook the elk. You may be able to fool an elk’s eyes or ears, but you will never fool their nose.

Cover and terrain The second thing that you must pay attention to is cover and terrain differences in order to use them to your advantage during a stalk. Cover and terrain can allow you to be protected from the sight of the bull you are trying to work close to, but also help protect you from your scent path heading to the elk. Countless times I have worked up an adjacent drainage to the one that a bull was located in.

This kept me out of his sight, but also allowed the evening thermals to carry my scent down the drainage I was in and not swirl in the drainage the bull was in. If the area you hunt has a more open setting and there are no adjacent drainages or ditches to use as cover, then try to use trees and vegetation to mask your movement. Often, something as small as a pine tree is enough cover when used correctly to sneak in on a lone bull. As long as there is something in between the bull’s eyes and your movement, you can cut major yardage off your stalk in a short amount of time.

When strategizing a stalk, consider all alternatives to cover and terrain when picking what you think will work the best.

30 | Hunting & Fishing News

Sound Another important detail a hunter must pay attention to is his or her sound upon the stalk. Elk are very loud animals when walking in the mountains and, if they are moving, you can move loudly as well.

However, if they are standing still, then any sound you emit will draw their attention in your direction. — even if they are not Photo credit Jake Horton. spooked they will quickly become wary of something in your direction. Now, I do not think it is necessary to stalk elk in socks like it may be for mule deer; however, watching your foot placement and moving when they move will increase your chances of getting close.

The quieter you can be, the less chance a bull will look in your direction and get skittish.

Speed When stalking an elk, it’s very common to think of the slow walk or crawl that is part of the stalk; however, sometimes a stalk requires a short section of run. Elk are very fast animals that move across their rugged, steep and thick mountains very efficiently. Often, to get where you need to be requires strategic movement and speed. If the wind and cover are in your favor and the elk herd is moving, then your sound — within reason — will not matter. Countless times I have made moves to get ahead of the elk herd by running up or down an adjacent drainage or side hill in order to get where I needed to be.

Of course, the wind was loud or the elk were moving during this time, masking my sound. Whenever the elk herd or wind would slow down I would also slow down so the sound of me moving didn’t put any of the elk on edge. Within the last 100 yards of a stalk, speed is not your friend and movement will easily spook a bull so be sure to slow way down and pay special attention to your movement and any sounds you emit.

Intercept The final thing that is important to pay attention to when stalking elk is the interception point. Elk are very good at getting from point A to point B in a short amount of time.

It is so important to plan to be where they will be at instead of planning to be where they are at. Using the wind, cover, sound and your speed to get to the right spot takes some strategizing and some luck, but it can be done. Often, elk will travel in a way that keeps the wind in their face in order to smell any danger ahead. To counter this, you can choose to work parallel with the bull or herd in an attempt to get where they want to be just before they arrive. If you can be at this interception point waiting for them, you are in an excellent position to seal the deal.

In Closing Whatever you do on a stalk, the most important thing I have learned is to put my pride away and back out of the stalk that is going south before it spooks the elk.

Often, during September, elk will do roughly the same thing day after day and at least be in the same drainage until spooked or Photo credit Jake Horton. pressured out so do not be afraid to back out and come back the next day. Stalking requires strategy, execution and a lot of luck in order for everything to come together. Rushing and trying to make something happen even though the wind switched or you ran out of cover will only cause an elk to get out of town and find a new home area. Then you will have to start over and find a new bull. Good luck this fall and, hopefully, stalking an elk will be added to your playbook if the conditions are right.

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SOLID GLASSING TIPS WHEN YOU CAN’T USE A TRIPOD (continued from page 23)

Rifle sling or bow sling With your rifle slung on your shoulder, grab your binoculars with your thumb under the sling just below the top of the shoulder. The weight of the rifle will definitely steady your optics. The rifle sling is my favorite way to control the movement. You can also do this with a bow sling.

These are simple movements that are effective while not alerting game to your movement if you’re already close.

Using a rifle

Another option is to modify what you have in front of you.

In the case of the photo above, you might have caught some movement with your eyes and you quickly grabbed your binoculars, so instead of taking off your spotter and mounting the binoculars to the tripod, just use the spotting scope to help steady the binoculars so you don’t risk that animal getting away into brush or over a ridge.

Binocular harness or chest rig

When you take your binoculars out of the rig, hook your thumbs under the shoulder harness and slightly lift up.

The resistance will help steady your binoculars effectively.

If your binoculars are tethered to your harness, you can shorten the tethers enough so you can get just enough resistance to steady your binoculars. These work a little better with elastic.

32 | Hunting & Fishing News

There are a couple of ways to use your rifle to stabilize your binoculars. First, you can put the butt of your gun on a rock and hold your rifle and binoculars together much like the trekking poles. The second way to do this is to again support the butt of the gun on something. Next, grab the barrel pointed up with one hand and let the binocular objective tubes straddle the barrel and rest on your hand.

Please make sure to practice muzzle control and gun safety.

Second, you can try the PH carry. You’ve probably seen a Professional Hunter carry his rifle barrel down with butt of the gun skyward. With the hand that the rifle is on, place that same hand perpendicular to the barrel while holding the binoculars. The weight of the rifle teeters off the back of the shoulder, which puts upward pressure on the hand holding the binoculars. Practice safe muzzle control, try it and enjoy the rock-solid view of your quarry.

Using your bow

I have hung the bow off the back of my shoulder. The hand that holds my binoculars then goes between the string and limb. The weight of the bow hanging off the shoulder counterbalances the binoculars. Or another way is to rest your bow cam on something and then place your binoculars on the top cam.

Please take a look at the pictures in this article. You can practice these techniques at home in order to figure out which ones work best for you. Please practice good rifle and bow safety when trying these suggestions. If practiced correctly — and safely — I guarantee you’ll see more game and have less eye fatigue!

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Next, you’ll need a down-safe detergent and DWR treatment.

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If you’re using a wash-in DWR treatment, run that cycle through the washing machine immediately after the initial cleaning wash. If you’re using a spray-on DWR treatment, you can wait and do that after the item is dry.

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When it comes to down-insulated gear, the washing is actually the easy part. The drying is more difficult. Really, it is just time consuming. Because once your jacket or sleeping bag is clean, you’ll need to tumble dry it with no heat or very low heat until it is completely and totally dry.

This takes a long time.

I place the clean item in the dryer with a few tennis balls or dryer balls to help break up the wet clumps of down.

If your gear has Velcro closures, carefully close them up.

Otherwise, tennis balls can hang up on the Velcro and cause damage. Start the dryer on a delicate setting with no heat or very low heat. Constant heat from the dryer vent can damage delicate down items.

Every half hour or so, I’ll take the sleeping bag or jacket out of the dryer and shake it out. Lay it on a clean floor and run your fingers across the item to break up the clumps. Return the item to the dryer and repeat this process until the gear is completely dry and fluffy. You should notice a significant improvement in loft, especially if you hadn’t cleaned the item in a long time. Any wet clumps remaining in the item could mold and ruin the gear.

When your gear is totally dry, store it hanging in a closet or in a cool, dry place. Sleeping bags should never be stored compressed in a stuff sack. If you don’t have room to hang them, keep them in a large, breathable storage bag that isn’t too restrictive. Most sleeping bags come with a large storage sack. If you don’t have one, pick up one of our Medium Single-Quarter game bags. At 28”x48” it’s the perfect size for long-term sleeping bag storage.

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several timbered ridges leveling off around 6500 feet; we refer to the area as “the big flat”. Bill’s history hunting the big flat is not good. With cloud cover, he might lose track of basic directions. On this day, cloud cover was heavy.

He wasn’t confused, until he cut fresh boot tracks in the snow.

However being an expert woodsman, a quick comparison to his own boots and he easily backtracked to our vehicle.

In the afternoon, we hunted where elk routinely bed mid-day, but only found old sign, nothing “fresh”. Day three (Monday) we duplicated a portion of opening day, in part because we hadn’t encountered other hunters actually hunting.

While hunting this area again seemed our best plan, we still didn’t find any elk. That afternoon, Bill left for home in the Bitterroot Valley, hoping to return in two weeks.

A Familiar Bull

By Tom Cooper hen brother Bill arrived for the opening of Montana’s 2010 General Season (gun), expectations were high based on our pre-season scouting. In our primary hunting area we had identified five bull elk. Although aware a bull was harvested during archery season, we couldn’t confirm it was one of the five. The weather forecast was good with a little snow expected prior to opening day, and a more substantial storm on Tuesday. We both had over-the-counter brow-tine bull tags.

On opening day with an inch of snow, we arrived 30 minutes before shooting light. We hunted isolated parks surrounded by timber, ranging from one acre to over 20 acres.

We continued to hunt down this large drainage for the rest of the day. Neither of us saw elk or fresh tracks. Our plan was good; just not on this day. But it was the opener, and we remained optimistic. On Sunday (day two), we hunted

W

Maybe More Snow Will Help Day four (Tuesday), I awoke to fresh snow. As I drove up the canyon, it was becoming obvious deep snow would be a problem. Did I mention it was snowing with ten inches already on the ground? I had to consider alternatives for a lower elevation hunt. I thought of a couple possibilities and parked at a spot I had expected to hunt with Bill on day one or two, but we had made other choices.

I left the vehicle and hiked up the ridge. Approaching the ridge top, the wind hit me at 20-25 miles an hour. Because of the wind, I almost returned to the vehicle. Since my elk pocket was 300 yards downhill across a lightly timbered hillside, I trudged on. Within a 100 yards, I was in fresh elk tracks. However, I couldn’t see into the wind in the low light of a stormy dawn and decided to wait for more light.

After an eternity (ok, ten minutes), I found the tracks went in all directions. Apparently, the elk were feeding. Slowly, I moved along a shallow bench. Next, I followed a set of tracks climbing up the ridge. When I moved around a huge boulder, the wind was lighter and my elk tracks were more distinct. But I was going the wrong way!

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Author Tom Cooper (r) and friend Jeff (l). Photo courtesy Tom Cooper.

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I retraced my steps and took a quick look over the edge of the bench. There were elk directly below me. One step connected me to a lodgepole pine, and a small branch provided a rest. I identified 4 cows, then 2 more, and finally there was a nose with brow-times. The timber didn’t allow a shoulder shot; I moved the crosshair toward his head.

He took a step and his neck was visible. I held mid-neck and touched it off. He dropped, slid a few yards, and kicked once. Did I mention it was a 52-yard shot?

I Know This Bull Now where have I seen this bull? Five weeks earlier, during the archery season, I was camped near where I parked on this day. A bull was bugling when I went to bed. I stepped outside at midnight, same thing. The alarm went off at 4:30am, the bull was still bugling. The elk was at the upper end of the meadow; my camp was at the lower end. I gulped my breakfast and hiked up the road on the east side of the meadow, in the dark. The bull was on the west-side; I crossed directly toward him. The meadow was swampy at this end and the water was well above the tops of my hiking boots. Moving quietly, in the dark, through a swamp is not part of my normal elk hunting routine. I approached a small grove of fir trees, nocked an arrow, and attached my release. Through an opening in the trees, I saw the bull at 60 yards. In the pre-sunrise light, his dark rack with white tips was a memorable site. Initially watching me, he eventually turned and headed over the ridge, taking his cows, and still bugling.

I would not forget this bull.

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Fast forward five weeks; I had a full-grown six-point elk on the ground. Having dealt with cow elk by myself in recent years, I was confident I could process this elk on the ground using the no-gut approach. But first I called Bill in case he wanted to participate in my successful hunt. He did, but couldn’t, due to work commitments. Next I called an archery partner, Jeff, who was driving to Missoula. He hoped to finish his meeting early, and arrive mid-afternoon. So, I went to work. Just 2 hours later, with two hams (hindquarters), shoulders, back straps, and tenderloins ready to pack, it was time for a trip to the vehicle. By now, the sun was shining, the wind had stopped, and the snow was melting.

Along with my gear, I carried back straps and tenderloins.

Buster Bull Following assembly of my single-wheel game cart, I returned to the elk. After removing his ivories and antlers, and boning both shoulders, I had just hung one ham in a tree when Jeff arrived. I admit I was very happy to see him. We tied the other ham onto the cart. However, before leaving, we named the bull because it’s one of my personal hunting traditions. The World Series had ended, San Francisco Giants were champions, and “Buster” Posey was one of the stars. For me, Buster Bull was the star of my season.

Jeff took the cart, I grabbed the bag of boned-out shoulder meat, and we headed for our vehicles. We returned the next morning for the remaining ham and antlers. We stopped for a few pictures, but had to hurry because Jeff had brought donuts and we certainly didn’t want them to get stale.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 35

Tips To Care For Wild Game Meat On A Warm Weather Hunt (continued from page 18)

5. Use Citric Acid Spray for Added Protection Citric acid has been proven to deter bacteria growth, act as a natural preservative, and keep bugs away from meat. On warm weather hunts or extended hunts, citric acid spray is an important part of our meat care routine. On particularly hot hunts or in places where flies are bad, we recommend spraying meat immediately upon skinning. In these situations, we will often spray the meat as we skin the hide back.

Citric acid spray can also be applied after you return to camp on extended hunting trips. In these situations, apply the spray a day or two after the kill. In the evening, after bugs have disappeared for the day, remove your game bags and spray the quarters with citric acid spray. Let it dry overnight, forming a glaze on the meat. Then re-bag the quarters early in the morning, before insects reappear.

Ideally, you’ll also wash your game bags and let them dry overnight while you’re applying the spray. But we’ll get to that here soon…

6. Label Each Game Bag of Meat Once each quarter or piece of meat is placed in a game bag, use an ID tag to label the meat. This will allow you to keep track of what’s in each bag. Additionally, you should also note any bags that contain bloodshot meat. This way, you can spend additional time carefully trimming that meat back at camp.

We provide ID tags with our Magnum Pack Series of game bags, and with our Carnivore III pack for boned-out meat.

These durable ID tags can also be purchased separately.

They include check boxes for sex, species and bullet damage, as well as hunter information and donation details if necessary for transport or butchering.

7. Do Your Part to Assist in CWD Research If working in an area with Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD), or if transporting your meat home from a CWD area, follow all transport laws and do your part to help with CWD research by submitting samples to local game and fish agencies for testing. Some game management units in Colorado require testing. Whether or not it’s required, this is critical information that can help our biologists learn more about CWD. In these situations, remove all edible meat first.

Only then should you remove the head or skullcap.

Consider using a disposable blade for this work.

Havalon knives and saws are perfect. You can easily separate blades that have been used to cut through brain or spinal tissue, and then dispose of them at home.

8. Keep Your Meat and Bags Clean on Extended Trips If you find yourself in a remote camp without access to a cooler, we prefer to hang bone-in quarters from a meat pole with our loose-fitting game bags.

“How long you can keep meat in camp without a cooler depends largely on nighttime temperatures,” Ted added.

“If temps at night get the meat cool enough, that it can stay cool in the shade through the following day, you’re in good shape. If meat is not cooling down sufficiently at night, you’re on a ticking clock to get it to a cooler.”

36 | Hunting & Fishing News

Photo courtesy www.huntinggearoutfitters.com

To keep your meat in the best condition possible, hang quarters by the shank using Paracord Game Meat Lashings.

Then, cover the quarter with the game bag. Use the drawstring to keep it cinched down tight and protect it from insects.

Now, your quarters can dry and form a glaze. Debris will fall to the bottom of the bag. Using this method, the game bags can be periodically removed to check on the meat.

On the second day from the kill site, we recommend that you remove bags from each quarter. Wait until the evening when most insects have disappeared. Gently wipe any remaining debris from the meat, and spray it with citric acid as described above.

Meanwhile, it’s time to wash your game bags. Using camp dish soap or a backpacker’s soap, wash your game bags in cold water and rinse them thoroughly. You might be surprised how clean they’ll get using cold water and camp soap. Once they’re clean and rinsed, hang them to dry overnight.

In the morning, replace the game bags early before bugs begin to reappear. This process can be repeated if necessary. Even on extremely long hunts in remote parts of Alaska, this method has allowed us to keep meat in great condition for as long as 10 to 15 days.

9. Wash Meat in a Natural Solution Before Butchering Finally, you’ve made it home from your hunting adventure with the real trophy – a cooler full of excellent wild game meat!

Whenever possible, process your own meat. When you put this much work into keeping your meat clean and cared-for, you want to know for sure that the end product is yours.

It would be a shame to have your meat ground and processed along with someone else’s, which doesn’t reflect the same effort.

Before butchering your meat at home, take the time to carefully wash it. Removing any hair, dirt and other contaminants is extremely important. Don’t skip this critical step.

We recommend washing your game meat using a vinegar water solution. It’s natural, edible and won’t leave an off-taste on your meat. Combine a 1/2-cup of vinegar per gallon of water. Carefully wash all parts of the exposed meat.

In addition to getting your meat clean and decontaminated, this washing process will rehydrate the outer rind that has formed. This is very much edible. At the very least, it can be used for jerky or ground meat. In most cases, there’s no need to trim off that rind and throw it away.

Be Prepared and Enjoy Your Early Season Hunts With these tips, we hope you find yourself in the field this year feeling well prepared and ready for the challenge of early season meat care. If you have questions, please feel free to contact us at 303-798-5824.

Tadpole Or Guppy Weights? 5 Of The Best Early (continued from page 15)

I tend to use Guppy Weights as an in-line weight most often when targeting fish near the surface. The lighter sizes of the Guppy Weights are ideal for targeting walleye, steelhead, brown trout or other species found within the top 10 feet.

For every rule in fishing there is an exception to that rule.

When fish show up on bottom, combining the Snap Weight version of the Guppy with diving crankbaits is an excellent option for getting these lures deeper while at the same time keeping trolling leads manageable.

The Guppy Weight is ideal for targeting walleye, steelhead, coho and brown trout found near the surface. When using the Snap Weight in combination with diving crankbaits this trolling strategy works exceptionally well for targeting bottom loving walleye, brown trout and lake trout.

Precision Trolling Data recently released the 50 Plus 2 Method designed to provide specific depths for anglers who fish select crankbaits in combination with the two ounce Snap Weight. To date 16 popular crankbaits have been tested with the two ounce Snap Weight at two popular trolling speeds.

A list of the 16 baits currently available with this data can be found on the www.precisiontrollingdata.com web page.

The 50 Plus 2 Method involves controlling specific variables including lead length, Snap Weight size, dropper or secondary lead lengths and trolling speed. This system is based on letting out a fixed lead length of 50 feet and then attaching a two ounce Snap Weight to the line. Once the Snap Weight is attached, additional “dropper” or secondary leads can be deployed out to a total lead length of 150 feet.

This data is based on two popular trolling speeds including 1.5 and 2.5 MPH, making it useful for a wide range of trolling applications.

Both Guppy Weights and Snap Weights function best when fished in combination with monofilament line. The OR16 Snap Weight Clip was designed for use with monofilament lines. To use this line clip with super braids, the line can be double wrapped around the jaw of the clip to prevent the clip from sliding on the braid and damaging the rubber pads...

Recipe: Wild Game Taco Bowl T

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hese bowls are one of our favorites, and go-to easy recipe for any night of the week. First, you’ll want to pick your favorite ground wild game. For us, we like to use ground elk. Ground elk tends to be really lean, high in protein, and high in iron, all vital for your daily nutrition.

However, no matter the choice of ground meat you won’t be let down by this recipe. Without further ado, enjoy!

Ingredients: Taco filling: • 1-1/2 tsp ground cumin • 1 Tbsp olive oil • 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper • 2 garlic cloves, minced (2 tsp) (optional) • 1 lb ground wild game • Salt & freshly ground black pepper • 1/4 cup chicken broth • 1-1/2 Tbsp chili lime seasoning from • 1/4 cup tomato sauce Trader Joes (or equivalent seasoning)

38 | Hunting & Fishing News

Season Elk Hunting Tactics Before The Rut (continued from page 26)

5. ESTABLISHING MINERAL SITES I’ll start this tactic off by saying that you should check your state regulations and see if it is legal to hunt off of a mineral site.

If it is, this is another great opportunity to do more than just hunt, but also scout and hang trail cameras to get an idea of the caliber of bulls you’re dealing with. A good mineral site and a few good trail cameras can do a lot of homework for you so that you know if the area holds the bulls you are looking for. I will generally get a site going mid June and check it once in late July or early August.

If it’s getting hit hard and I am finding good bulls on the camera, then I will add more mineral to the site and consider sitting down wind, depending on the time of day the bulls are visiting the site. If you choose a site to begin with that has cover in most directions and the elk are likely to hit it between water and bedding, you can harvest bulls off of the same site year after year. Elk are suckers for a good mineral like salt or salty sweet smelling mineral powders like Black Magic. If the site is chosen wisely, then this is also a good place to set up a tree stand for a young hunter to get his or her first shot at an elk.

IN CLOSING Although all of us elk junkies would strongly prefer hunting a big bull while he is chasing cows and bugling his guts out, sometimes, we don’t have that option. Don’t let that stop you from harvesting a bull or a cow in an over-the-counter unit you can hunt every year with early dates. There is a lot of opportunity to hunt elk during early seasons and, with a little out of the box thinking or approaching the hunt like a mule deer hunter, you can be just as successful during these dates as you can during the peak of the rut. Try out a few of these tactics that have worked for me over the years.

Good luck in the next few weeks as the western archery hunts start to open.

For bowls: • 1 cup rice, cooked according to package instructions • 1 can refried beans, heated on the stove • 1 package frozen fire roasted fajita veggies from Trader Joes (or any frozen fajita veggies of choice) • 3/4 cup shredded Mexican blend cheese • 1 cup fresh pico de gallo • 1 avocado, sliced • 1 dollop of sour cream • Fresh cilantro and lime slices Instructions: •Heat olive oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.

•Add garlic and saute for 30 seconds, or so. . . do not burn the garlic. Add wild game and season lightly with salt and pepper.

•Cook, browning the wild game – about 5 – 6 minutes for fully cooked through.

•Add in chili seasoning, cumin and cayenne pepper and cook 1-2 minutes longer, all while stirring.

•Pour in chicken broth and tomato sauce, bring to a simmer then reduce heat to low and let simmer until sauce has reduced, about 3 – 5 minutes.

To assemble bowls divide rice among bowls, top with ground meat, fajita veggies, cheese, avocados, pico, sour cream, cilantro and serve with limes. Enjoy!

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