Western Hunting & Fishing News March 2023 Issue

The

What Are The Main Benefits Of Bowhunting?

By Josh Kirchner

Originally published at GOHUNT.com

Hiking through the dark that morning, my mind was racing. As I focused down the tunnel vision provided by my headlamp what happened the night before kept replaying over and over again. A beautiful black bear stood beneath me at a mere 18 yards and I blew it. Not just once either, but twice. Two arrows went sailing right over his back. I thought to myself, “Would I even get another chance? Or was that my opportunity for the season?” Only a few hours later, a husky red boar fed across the canyon from me and there wasn’t a damn thing I could do about it. Not with a bow at least. Had a rifle been next to me, then this story would have ended much differently. In moments like that, the act of bowhunting sounds insane. Why would someone want to put themselves through that? Believe it or not, though, there are actually benefits to this bowhunting thing. A light in the darkness.

HONING YOUR SKILL

One of the first things that comes to mind — in terms of the benefits of bowhunting — is honing your skill. Spend enough time archery hunting and your skill as a hunter is bound to skyrocket, especially if you’re successful. Success with a bow is often described as “the stars aligning” and, while I do believe there is a bit of luck involved with all hunting, it’s not all luck by a long shot. Year in and year out there are folks who are consistently filling tags with their bows. There is a reason for that and that reason rhymes with “skill.” Please, let me assure you: I’m not downplaying rifle hunting at all. That is hard enough in its own right. However, something that cannot be denied is that there is far more that has to go right to put an arrow in a critter. More things matter and being hyper aware tends to be a common trait among successful bowhunters. For someone that wants to learn, the challenge of bowhunting will absolutely sharpen their skills as a hunter in general.

DON’T HAVE TO KEEP BUYING AMMO

I’ll be the first to admit that shooting guns is just plain fun. Heading out into the desert and blowing up some produce or fine-tuning that scope for hunting season is time well spent — especially with good buddies. In order for that to happen, though, a trip to the local sporting goods store to buy some ammo has to happen ahead of time. Not only does this add up, but it involves the act of having to go to the store. You could say that reloading is the solution, but is it? Reloading requires an investment in time — not to mention the investment in the equipment to do so. As far as a bow goes, buy a dozen arrows and you’re good to go over and over again. As long as you don’t lose them or break them, of course. Other than those instances, it’s as easy as going and pulling them out of your target. That leads me to my next point: practicing.

EASIER TO PRACTICE ON A MORE REGULAR BASIS

Each year before annual deer camp, my dad and I would head down to the local shooting range to give the rifles a workout in preparation for the season. This was something I always looked forward to as a kid because it was like an event for me. We’d stop off and get a hot cup of coffee on our way, usually accompanied with a donut or two. It was good times. Every time we’d go, I’d always wish it was something I could do more often. In order for that to happen, though, we’d be making a heck of a lot of trips either out to the range or into the desert for a safe place to shoot. It was a time investment. With my bow, I can just walk out into the backyard, fling a few and go about my daily business. And, if I wanted to do that multiple times a day, I could and still can. This is great in terms of building familiarity with your weapon as well as the obvious shooting skill aspect. We have so much more opportunity to become better shots with our bows because we can practice with them more often. Most of us anyway. If you happen to live in the country and can shoot a rifle on your own property, then you’ve got it made in the shade on both fronts.

SAFER

While bowhunting and rifle hunting are both dangerous in their own right, I truly believe that bowhunting is safer. Yes, broadheads are sharp and you can definitely cut yourself; however, bows aren’t accidentally fired when walking around with your hunting partner. Not unless you’re just walking around at full draw, which isn’t realistic at all. If you drop a bow, there isn’t a chance it will fire an arrow into your buddy. Of course, this all comes down to good firearm safety practice, right? You shouldn’t be walking around with a bullet in the chamber, but people do it anyways. If you do have a bullet in the chamber, the safety should be on until ready to fire, but there are people that do the opposite anyways. And while accidents do happen from time to time in the archery hunting world, they happen far less. How often do you hear about someone accidentally shooting their buddy or complete stranger with an arrow? Not often, which is why I consider this another benefit of bowhunting.

Pictured above, the Hamskea Trinity Hunter Pro Arrow Rest. All photos credit Josh Kirchner

The Arizona Department of Game and Fish used to try and advertise archery hunting in their main regulations as an opportunity for “more time in the field.” It extends the normal rifle hunting seasons we were accustomed to. While bowhunting may be harder — no doubt — there is far more opportunity to do it. This is because it’s hard. Success rates aren’t super high at all with archery hunting, so more opportunity is available. When I first learned about how much more opportunity a bowhunter had out there, that alone was reason enough for me to really take an interest in it. Growing up and only going hunting once a year wasn’t going to cut it when I got older. The answer to this was bowhunting. With it, there is no excuse or lack of opportunity to go hunting.

CLOSING

Boone And Crockett Announces New World Record Mountain Goat

By Kristen A. Schmitt

Originally published at GOHUNT.com

Congratulations to Justin Kallusky on his new world record Rocky Mountain goat. A special panel of Boone And Crockett Club judges announced the new world record during the Wild Sheep Foundation’s 2023 Sheep Show. Kallusky’s British Columbia (BC) billy officially scored 60-4/8”, beating the previous world record by three inches, according to a press release.

Each horn measured over 12”.

And the best part? When the avid do-it-yourself backcountry hunter went mountain goat hunting in 2022, he didn’t expect to harvest the new world record Rocky Mountain goat. He was just out to have a good time.

“I’m not a trophy hunter by any stretch of the imagination,” said Kallusky. “I’m out there for the experience.”

Although he did have an inkling that he might get lucky after spotting the record-breaking goat in 2019 during a hunt with a friend along the Stikine River in northwestern BC. “On that hunt, I told my friend there’s a goat over 12 inches in this spot. It’s a really good habitat.”

As I sat there staring at that beautiful red boar hitting up his local fruit stand, I will admit: there was a bit of frustration. My dream bear was right across from me and I knew almost certainly that he wasn’t going to be catching a ride in my pack back to camp. Instead, he’d remain in my thoughts for years to come. Even as I write this, that bear still gets me going, which, in my opinion, is yet another benefit that I’ve received from bowhunting.

Had I toted a rifle that morning, I wouldn’t have spent 45 minutes watching the bear or had this yearning desire that experience gave me. Then there are the close encounters. The ones that make your hair stand up and leave you motionless.

Experiences that are at an all time high in the “almost” category.

And when it does all come together, through the undeniable difficulty that rides passenger with bowhunting, that feeling of accomplishment is uncanny. All of that because you decided to pick up a bow and arrow. Priceless.

He returned to the area in 2022 to see if the goat would still be there.

“It was bedded facing uphill and stuffed up under a rock to hide from the sun,” said Kallusky, adding that the only thing he and his hunting buddy could see “was a big goat butt.”

Four hours later, the goat finally stood, but Kallusky said something seemed really odd about the animal. “I asked my friend, ‘Why does his head look so small?’ I knew it was a good billy, but not until I walked up to it after the shot did I really understand.”

Kallusky was lucky enough to kill his selected goat, bringing it to the provincial inspector as required after harvest. Once there, the biologist told Kallusky to check in with Grant Markoski, a local B&C official measurer.

“When I saw this thing, I could not believe it,” said Markoski. “It was so much bigger than anything I’ve ever seen. When you see it, your jaw will drop.”...

“This new world record is truly a sight to behold,” said Mike Opitz, chair of the special judges panel. “A Rocky Mountain goat of this caliber is a true testament to continued conservation efforts and one tough hunter.”

Photo courtesy the Boone And Crockett Club and GOHUNT.com

Preparing For Spring Bear Hunts

By Anthony Wright Originally published at GOHUNT.com

For some states and people, spring bear hunts are the first big game season of the year. In Montana, winters can come early and may not recede until what sometimes seems like early summer. These long winters can make it hard to keep up on tangible skills like shooting or fitness. There is a part in all of us (or maybe it’s just me) that will bite off more than we can chew upon the arrival of our first bear hunt: covering steep terrain, misjudging distances, unfamiliar shots, etc. So being prepared prior to the hunt will help mitigate any hurdles when trying to find some bears. Here are some things to consider before your next bear hunt: GET IN SHAPE If you are familiar with some of my past articles, then you know I am a big fan of being in shape and, believe me, you don’t need a gym to do that. Many workouts can be quick (20 minutes) and at home...Bears live in some of the roughest country in the West. They are amazing animals. For us humans, though, who chose to seek these post-hibernation cave dwellers, we must go where the bears live. I don’t know about you, but I don’t have a honey hole in flat(ish) country for bears, which inherently requires me to cover miles in tough terrain. Bears can be found in avalanche chutes, dark timber, and steep sunny hillsides with green vegetation. However, sometimes getting to those areas requires extra effort.

Finding a bear is one thing; physically being able to close the distance is another. Use the winter months to keep yourself physically ready for the arrival of spring bear. No matter what kind of workout you choose to do, make sure you are incorporating hiking with a pack on to get those muscles ready for the big moment. Easy at-home exercises include weighted pack step-ups, forward and/or reverse lunges, burpees, air squats, push-ups, sit-ups, etc. In-home workouts do not need to be complicated to be effective.

PRACTICE ODD SHOT POSITIONS

This training tip is geared more toward rifle hunts, but some of the principles can also be transferred to archery as well.

Based on my experiences, the shots on bears can be more advanced in comparison to range shooting.

Hunting shots are never perfect due to uneven terrain, inclines/declines, wind, etc. Not everything must be done with live rounds. An affordable solution to getting trigger time is dry firing (yes, it’s okay to do on centerfire rifles). In the comfort of your house or garage, you can take your pack, couch, barstool, ladder, shooting sticks or whatever you can find to add different variables to a prone or seated shooting position. Tape a small target on the wall to give you a reference point for executing the shot (settling the crosshairs, breathing, trigger pull, follow through and reloading). After a few slow iterations, begin to increase set-up speed to replicate getting ready under stress. Utilize the indoor time to become familiar with manipulating your bipod or reloading while staying on target while behind the gun in odd positions. You will figure out where you are lacking and can focus on that individual element.

The best competitive shooters perform dry firing training year-round to build muscle memory and build confidence in their abilities, so we, as hunters, should follow suit. If you get a nice break in the winter weather, head outside and practice getting rounds through the barrel while keeping the muscle memory principles intact. Utilizing electronics, such as a Kestrel, can be a great tool for extending your range.

HAVE MULTIPLE PLANS OF ATTACK In the winter, one thing I do a lot of is e-scouting with 3D maps, which fuels my fire for spring bear while trying to fight off cabin fever pent up in the house. E-scouting is an integral part of most of our hunting plans whether they be in-state or out-of-state. While it may be nice to hike in, set up camp and spend four days in an area, what do you do when the road is impassable? What if there are already three trucks there? What if you’re not seeing game or sign? These types of variables cannot always be avoided. When I am planning to hunt an area, I try to have Plan A through Plan C or D. This enables me to have multiple options when I hit the road so I’m not wasting time being reactive to an unforeseen variable. Instead, I am being proactive. Figure out plans that incorporate different altitudes if snow is an issue. Determine locations that are off trail or less “appealing.” Try keeping Plans B through D relatively close to Plan A so you can spend more time glassing instead of in the truck.

For me, it really doesn’t seem like there is an offseason. I am always busy planning, testing gear, e-scouting, or training in some facet.

The winter can be a good opportunity to stay sharp with tangible skills like fitness and shooting in the warmth of your home.

Taking a little time on the weekends or weekdays even with a busy schedule can make a difference over time for when the seasons roll around.

As always, stay safe and hunt hard!

An essential piece of gear for practice sessions and hunts, the Kestrel 5700 Ballistics Weather Meter with LiNK. Photo GOHUNT.com

Fly Fishing Through The Seasons

Tips For Fly Selection

By Zach Lazzari

Budge’s Wilderness Lodge www.budgeslodge.com

As rivers and water levels change throughout the fly fishing season, so do the available food sources for trout. Whether you’re fishing high alpine waters here in the Flat Tops Wilderness, or a larger body of water at lower elevations, you can expect seasonal change. And therefore, different flies will be hot throughout each part of the season. With those changes, anglers should be prepared for changes in fly patterns, and even the size of flies they are fishing. And while every stream has its own nuances, there are some general rules that apply no matter where you’re fishing.

As you think about your seasonal fly selection, here are some tips to remember…

Spring Ice Off to Run Off

When rivers begin to thaw out in the spring, there is a period of time where the water is very cold. The fish are moving slowly and are concentrated in slow, deep pools. But they are also hungry. Get your flies down to their level and success is likely.

In these situations, fast-sinking flies that get down into the zone quickly are a good choice. Classic prince nymphs, stonefly nymphs and buggers dead drifted or moving slowly will get the job done. Smaller nymphs with some flash work well also. Czech nymphs, perdigons and other fast-sinking bugs are deadly, especially when the bigger bugs aren’t working.

As the water warms and moves closer to runoff, stick to the stoneflies and prince nymphs but mix in egg patterns and San Juan worms. They catch trout pretty much everywhere during the higher water season.

Lastly, keep a lookout for cloudy days and have some dry flies handy. Parachute Adams and other Blue Winged Olive imitations are great when the spring hatches occur and bring trout to the surface. This can even occur during a light snow when the humidity raises enough to trigger these spring mayflies.

Here at Budge’s Wilderness Lodge, our fly fishing season doesn’t begin until the end of June. By that time, the water is still high, but runoff has already peaked.

Therefore, anglers during the early part of our season will do well with mayfly imitations like Parachute Adams along with small stoneflies on the surface. Below the surface, consider fishing weighted stoneflies or perdigon style flies that sink quickly in fast water. Especially when fishing small pocket water, flies that immediately get down into the strike zone have a big advantage.

The Swings of Summer

On many rivers, summer brings the opportunity to cast big, foam dry flies, starting with salmonflies and then hoppers. During the early stages of summer, golden stoneflies are common and dry fly patterns like stimulators are very effective. Running a prince nymph, pheasant tail, San Juan worm or general Czech style nymph will double the odds as well.

By July, caddis and yellow sallies take over, calling for smaller dries and nymphs. Specific mayflies like PMD’s, green drakes and others are also present. A yellow parachute Adams style fly will cover both the PMD’s and yellow sallies, working double duty. Otherwise, an elk hair caddis or stimulator will cover you on the surface.

Once August hits, grasshoppers appear and terrestrial patterns are a great option. Small streams in the mountains have shorter seasons and they are perfect for fishing grasshopper and ant patterns.

Here in the Flat Tops Wilderness area, hoppers, stoneflies, caddis and mayflies are all present throughout the summer at these high elevations. With that in mind, any pattern that can represent more than one type of bug is a good choice. For example, a Stimulator might act as a small hopper, a caddis or a stonefly. A Yellow Humpy might fool trout as a PMD or a yellow sally. Below the surface, general attractor patterns are effective as well. We love fishing soft hackles, Copper Johns, Hare’s Ears and Prince Nymphs all summer long.

Big or Small in the Fall

When fall arrives, water temperatures drop and the fish know their time to grow and pack in the calories is running out. This is a great time to fish streamers as the fish are feeling opportunistic. Buggers and muddlers make great fall patterns and they can dart and swim through shallower fall flows. Hopper action can continue through the fall and October caddis are active in some rivers so keep a few orange stimulators handy.

Fall is a good time to experiment and be a bit more aggressive. Some of the largest fish around show up during the fall months. When things start freezing and the first few storms arrive, fish move back into the slower water until full winter shuts things down again.

If you’re visiting Budge’s anytime after Labor Day, be ready for variable weather and fishing conditions. If it’s still warm and sunny, hopper-dropper rigs will be the ticket. But cold weather and even snow are possible anytime. When we get these weather changes, the fishing can still be excellent. But it will be time to focus on fishing softer water and deep pools with those small mayflies and fast-sinking nymphs that we used to begin the season.

Wilderness Fly Fishing Trips

Interested in learning more about horseback fly fishing adventures? You can find lots of information on our Fishing Page (https://www.budgeslodge.com/fly-fishing). Otherwise, you can call or text us anytime at 970-536-1341. Or, contact us online (https://www.budgeslodge.com/contact-budges).

Photos credit Ryan Lee

Shooting Angles In Bowhunting

By Josh Kirchner Originally published at GOHUNT.com

This is why steep down or uphill grades often leave hunters wondering why their arrows are flying over the backs of animals. Instead of aiming for the line of sight distance, what we should be aiming for is the horizontal distance. Using my situation as an example, the horizontal distance would have been the distance from the base (bottom) of the bluff to the bear. The difference between the horizontal distance and line of sight depends on the angle of the shot. For me, it was probably around 10 yards based upon where the arrow was hitting. The arch of our arrows are much less affected by gravity when we aren’t shooting on a horizontal plane. The result is less arrow drop. Knowing the right yardage is key and what will help avoid that crushing miss in the field.

KNOW THE RIGHT YARDAGE

“There’sa bear,” I said to myself. A lone black bear slowly mingled his way along a bluff line just up the hill from me. With an hour of light left, I decided to make a mad dash around to get on top of that bluff the bear traveled along. With any hope, he’d be right below me upon my arrival, offering a sub 20 yard shot with my bow. As light faded fast, I crept my way out to the edge of the bluff, peering down below. The bear apparently read the script perfectly because he fed on acorns beneath my boots. Now was my time. Coming to full draw and resting in my anchor points with a bear at 18 yards was pretty surreal to say the least. Just when I thought I had this bear pegged, I watched as my arrow flew right over his back. The bear walked unharmed out of my view and out of my life.

The steep angle of that shot is what saved that bear. And if I knew then what I know now about shooting angles, I’d likely be looking at his hide as I type this. This is a prime example of why it’s imperative that we practice these things beforehand.

LINE OF SIGHT VS. HORIZONTAL DISTANCE

So, we’ve chatted about the difference between line of sight yardage and horizontal yardage. We know that when aiming at a steep up or downhill shot, we need to be aiming for the horizontal yardage, not the line of sight yardage. There is a bit of math that happens to arrive at this number. Doing math while our legs are shaking and a buck is bedded beneath us doesn’t sound like the most ideal of situations though. So, how do we figure out the horizontal distance in the heat of the moment? Well, the easiest way is just by purchasing an angle compensating rangefinder. Unlike the rangefinders of the past, these do all of the math for you and give the actual number you need to be aiming for. No fuss, no muss and we’re standing in front of a dead buck.

I had the yardage and everything. My rangefinder went off probably 10 times before I shot. So, why did the above happen? At 18 yards, it’s hard to miss that much. The fact of the matter is that 18 yards was my line of sight distance to the bear from where I was standing — not the actual distance I should have aimed for.

If an angle compensating rangefinder isn’t your flavor, you could also carry around an inclinometer and cut chart. An inclinometer is going to tell you the exact degree of angle a shot is. From there, you’d take that degree and refer to a cut chart to get the exact yardage to aim for. A cut chart is a great tool that will tell you how much percentage to take off of line of sight yardage based off of the degree of angle. These are things that you can find online or you could make one of your own based off of your own practice. Most folks will actually memorize these cuts to keep the figuring to a minimum while hunting.

The next option — but definitely not the most accurate — is by simply judging the horizontal distance by eye. Base your assumption off of the base of the tree or bluff to the animal — not from you to the animal. This route can be pretty tricky as it’s incredibly difficult to judge that horizontal yardage from an elevated position and much harder when judging uphill shots.

CANTING, TORQUING AND THIRD AXIS

On most sights these days there is a bubble level. The bubble level helps us ensure that when at full draw, the bow is level and not canted left or right. This is important because canting the bow left or right will cause left/right misses.

Photo credit Josh Kirchner

Photo credit Caleb Sorrells

Photo courtesy Josh Kirchner GOHUNT.com

The arrow will always travel in the direction of the cant. So, if you’re canted to the left, the arrow will travel slightly left and the same logic goes for right cants. Hence why bubble levels are so crucial. Bubble levels need to be calibrated to make sure they are actually giving an accurate reading. In order to do this, you’ll need to first set your first axis adjustment followed by setting your second axis adjustment. I won’t go into too much detail about that, but at the end of the day, you know your bubble level is level when these are set properly.

Where the third axis comes in is when we start shooting angles. In a nutshell, third axis calibration is going to enable the shooter to refer to their bubble level on down or uphill grades. The fact of the matter is that there is a certain amount of torque that is both engineered into the bow and that we are likely putting on the bow at full draw. On a level horizontal plane at full draw, we can’t see this torque in the bubble level. As soon as we change that level plane to an angled plane, though, the torque will begin to show itself and throw the bubble left or right. This makes it incredibly difficult to maintain being level and could ultimately lead to a heartbreaking miss. Hamskea Archery sells a neat little tool to help calibrate the third axis if you’d like to do this on your own. If not, get your bow into a pro shop and have them do it for you.

THE MEAN LEAN

Consistency and accuracy is archery. One of the things that helps with being consistent behind the bow is our anchor points. A couple common ones are putting the string to the tip of our nose, resting our jaw line between our first and second knuckle and then using a kisser button to put in the corner of our mouth. These things and others help us return to the same position shot after shot. When we start the draw aiming downhill or uphill, all of this can change a little, which alters our consistency. So, instead of doing this, draw your bow back level just as you would shooting in the backyard. Find your anchor points and from there bend at the waist while maintaining your upper body position. Now, you know that everything is as it should be and are ready to take that steep graded shot.

PERFECT PRACTICE

The next and final piece of wisdom to note here is to actually practice shooting these angles. Go find a steep hill, bluff, etc., and elevate your practice with some perfect practice. It is very rare that we get flatline types of shots in the field. Most of the time, opportunities are less than ideal and either up or downhill. As bowhunters, we only get so many of these opportunities. That bear that I missed is a prime example. Everything I was working towards stood beneath me that evening and I botched the opportunity due to some ignorance on my part. It was a hard lesson learned, but one I’ll never forget. With any hope, you won’t make the same mistake I did and your backpack will be much heavier on your next hunt.

HUNTING

NEVER MISS AN

NEWS

Photo courtesy Josh Kirchner GOHUNT.com

Photo credit Brady Miller

Research Your Way To Big Bucks

With A Tool You’re Probably Not Using

By Brady Miller

Originally published at GOHUNT.com

If you’ve been following some of the tactics I talk about in previous articles, seminars, podcasts, or videos, you’ll hear me mention a lot about the power of education and being a student of the game when it comes to hunting. A hidden gem I feel people overlook when it comes to adding information to your “hunting toolbox” can be found in reading biology reports!

I get a lot of emails and messages from hunters each year asking about my approach to finding biology-based information for mule deer, as well as what I’m reading book wise. As most of you know, I love helping others. So it’s finally time I put out an article on this subject. You can also find elk biology reports or other species using this same method, but since I’m a mule deer hunter, this is based on my favorite animal.

How to find biology reports?

Biology reports and peer-reviewed research studies are pure GOLD! I say it a lot, but for the most part, wildlife’s daily actions are rooted in biology and science. To be a better hunter, it’s best to know everything you can about the animal you’re trying to hunt and find. I’m always trying to expand my knowledge in different facets of hunting techniques, and learning about animal biology ranks up there at the top of my list of what I do each year to gain a slight edge.

Back in August, I talked to Mark Livesay on our Big Hunt Guys podcast, and I dove into finding these research studies. Mark and I are cut from the same cloth and do a ton of very similar things when it comes to e-scouting and educating ourselves on animal behavior. While talking about research studies, it was interesting that Mark had not heard of Google Scholar. So I thought I should expand on this information and release this article so more people can learn about this technique.

Everyone knows that you can always do a standard Google search for some studies and pretty much find endless items on the internet, but the true power, in my personal opinion, lies in Google Scholar.

WHAT EXACTLY IS GOOGLE SCHOLAR?

Google Scholar is a free academic web search engine that pulls scholarly literature across different publications.

Google Scholar is a lot like your standard Google search engine, but it’s more of an academic search engine for research-based studies. You can search specific keywords or phrases to hone in on areas of research that interest you. In the example above, you can see I searched for mule deer migration, and it gave me a bunch of articles directly related to this subject.

When it comes to mule deer, I use the following terms a lot:

• Migration

• Telemetry

• Habitat use

• Buck movement

• Predation

• Breeding

• Winter range

There are a lot of other terms you could search for; those are just some items to get you started. If you want to narrow down your search, you can put keywords in quotes.

Note: you might not be able to find detailed wildlife studies in the same area you’re planning on hunting, but the studies and information you find can be extrapolated to where you hunt.

I use Google Scholar to find biology reports.

If the article you’re interested in has a [PDF] or a [HTML] link to the right of the articles, you will be able to click on that link to read/download them. If they do not have those links, then most likely you’ll either need to pay for them or access them through a university or library login. More on how to access those further down in this article. Once you click on an article that allows free access, you’ll be able to read it, save it and download it to your computer.

Example of a research paper I was able to open and view for free using Google Scholar.

Research Your Way To Big Bucks

Example of a few of my saved articles in Google Scholar.

One of my favorite features of Google Scholar is the ability to save articles. If you’re logged in to your Google account, you can actually save articles for future reference, which is totally different than using the “normal” Google search. You’ll notice in the screenshot above, this is a sample of the “My library” section of my personal Google Scholar. You can even create certain folders for different species if you’d like.

To save an article, just click the save button underneath the article summary. Then you just go to your “My Library” to access the saved article links.

ACCESSING ARTICLES BEHIND THE PAYWALL

Sometimes, you’ll land on pieces of research papers that are locked behind paywalls.

If you want to read an article that is locked behind a paywall, you have a few options. There are times I have personally paid to download certain research studies. For example, in one article example I pulled up here about a research paper on hunter access and elk resource selection, I could purchase the single article for $49.00, which would allow me to download and print it, or I could get 48-hour access for $12.00 but I couldn’t print it off.

Sometimes you can also subscribe to whatever distribution service you’re viewing in a monthly plan that gives the ability to read the full text of every article and allows you 10 article PDFs to save and keep for $19.50 a month or a yearly plan of being able to read every article and download 120 article PDFs to save and keep at $199 per year. Each service might be different. So yes... this route can get expensive. But again... it comes down to how bad do you want to learn about the animal you’re hunting?

To me, this is way more important than a Netflix or Hulu subscription that some people have. And a subscription could be cost effective if you find out that a bunch of articles you want to read are under the same journal.

If you have a university login or your local library is connected through these journals, you might be able to access these

types of research studies for free that are normally locked behind a paywall. Luckily, many journals have opened up their access to their research articles. Some even allow you to register with them to access articles per month. Keep in mind, even if a journal says you can access articles for free, after registering, you might still be locked out and will need to pay.

Another method that might work every now and then is sometimes you can take a few of the author’s names on the research study and search their name in the main Google search engine. Why do that? That process will allow you to land on the author’s university website profile. Those authors may want to show off their research work, and sometimes you can download that article for free through their link on their author profile.

Another option is to again go into Google search and search that article name and add a pdf to the backside of the name in the search bar to see if another source has that article for free for you to save. Lastly, another option is to either find someone with a university school login to access on a school computer system or access through a library.

If you’re willing to work hard, you can gain access to these journals.

ANOTHER WAY TO LEARN — BOOKS

A sample of some of the “research based” mule deer books I own. I love to read, so it’s no suprise that I own just about every mule deer book that’s been published.

I have also searched and bought pretty much any book I can find on mule deer biology. There is a lot of power in these types of books. You can read hunting stories and hunting tactics all day long, but again, I love reading about animal behavior to better understand the animal I’m pursuing and I find a lot of extra value in research books. Finding these books can be straightforward, or a little difficult. You’ll need to get scrappy to find some that are out of print. There are endless online bookstores that you can search for books online, and you can use big websites like eBay and Amazon. What I really like to do, when traveling, I’ll stop in to small bookstores and browse around. I’ve found some amazing gems at crazy low prices this way.

STATE WEBSITES FOR RESEARCH PAPERS

Another overlooked area are state websites. You can find some good research papers on state agency websites, although they are sometimes hard to find where they live on these state websites. This again is more data and more knowledge you can gain, and then you know that information will be based on the animal species in the state you’re hunting.

LEARNING IS POWER!

Is reading endless research and biology reports an end-all solution to hunting and taking bigger bucks every year? Definitely not. But again, there is so much benefit we, as hunters, can learn from animal behavior, how an animal utilizes the landscape, and other research biologists conduct that could make us a more well rounded hunter.

Example of a previous data heavy Insider article I wrote. Keep in mind there’s also a ton of information you can learn about animal biology by using your Insider account. Our team takes a lot of time to provide members with data-heavy articles each year. From Application Strategy articles, to Insider tips, to individual species strategies, you’ll find many data stories and graphics included in a lot of articles we publish each year.

There’s no better time than now to gain additional information and knowledge on the animal you’re hunting. If you want a deep dive into some e-scouting tactics, check out this compelling podcast episode we did with Mark Livesay and you’ll hear us talking a lot about biology and research papers: https://youtu.be/rxGXwEHHxZo

For more about GOHUNT visit GOHUNT.com.

10 Tips On How To Make This Your Best Fishing Year Ever

Rapala

You can smell it in the air. Every now and then, a warm, fresh breath of spring. And to you and millions like you, that can mean only one thing…fishing! As our country gradually warms up from a long, cold, nasty winter, now is the time to get ready to make this your best fishing year ever! Here are ten tips from the fishing enthusiasts at Rapala, the world’s best-selling fishing lure for the past 50 years, on what you can do now to be ready to hit the water and start catching.

2. Put on Fresh Line –

What comes between you and a trophy fish? Your fishing line.

Don’t tempt fate. The experts at Sufix fishing line recommend changing out fishing line at least once a year. As you take off old line, look for frays and nicks — this may be a sign that one or more of the guides on your fishing rod is cracked or even missing.

1. Declutter the Tackle Box – If you’ve been fishing a while, no doubt your tackle box might be feeling a bit cluttered. On those cold, nasty days, bring the tackle box inside to the warmth of your home and pluck out the stuff that doesn’t work and focus on what does. Taking the time to organize your gear will help you spend more time fishin’ and less time messin’ with your stuff.

3. Smooth Fishing Rod Guides – Use a cotton swab and run it around the inside of each guide of your fishing rod. This will help you see if you have any cracks or breaks in your guides, which could cut your fishing line — when you have a fish on the line.

4. Watch Fishing Videos – Getting outside and spending time on the water is what fishing is all about;, however, watching how-to videos on the Rapala YouTube Channel, which features more than 600 videos, can help you catch more fish year-round, on open water, in salt water and on hardwater (ice fishing).

Or, try a lure, such as an ice fishing lure, for deep water bass and walleye in open water.

5. Sharp Hooks Equals More Bites – What’s the first point of contact with a fish? It’s the point of your fishing hook. Sharp hooks means you’ll catch more fish; dull hooks means you’ll be one frustrated angler. It’s also important to select the right hook, too, say the hook gurus at VMC, one of the world’s largest fishing hook manufacturers. The mouths of fish vary from species to species, so make sure to select a hook that meets the challenge.

8. Play Fantasy Fishing – That’s right. Playing Rapala Bassmaster Fantasy Fishing gives you an opportunity to win some incredible prizes. At the same time, it allows you to track the world’s best bass fishing pros, and watching how they manage to catch fish even in the most difficult conditions can improve your real-world, on-the-water fishing, too.

9. Try Someplace New – Anglers can be creatures of habit. We like to go to our favorite lake and often go to our favorite fishing hole. While you might be catching fish, you also may be limiting yourself. This year, try someplace new. Go to a new water. Try a different way of fishing, such as using a kayak. Go for a different species and see if your knowledge in bass fishing applies to a species such as walleye, muskies or redfish.

10. Introduce Someone New to Fishing – Spending time on the water, enjoying all that nature has to offer and catching fish is pretty awesome, but there’s something even better — hooking someone new, especially a young person, on the joy of fishing. Take some time this year to intentionally teach someone about how to fish, or how to fish for a different species. It just may be your biggest catch of all.

6. Go with Your Confidence Bait – Nearly every angler has their go-to lure. It’s that one lure that seems to catch fish when all others fail. When you find your confidence bait, stock up on it. Have a few more of that lure tucked away in your tackle box for when you might need them even more. Don’t have a confidence bait yet? Well, you can’t go wrong with the lure that’s caught more world records than any other lure.

7. Experiment More – You wouldn’t play an 18-hole golf course with just a putter. Different lures are made to catch fish under different conditions. For example, Rapala offers freshwater lures, saltwater lures and ice fishing lures. It offers lures that can reach fish in any depth, from deep down to the surface. This year, treat yourself to a lure you’ve never tried before to learn from it and expand your ability to catch fish anytime, anywhere, under any condition.

Options: Smartcraft Gauges, 3 bank Minnkota on board charger, Sport top w/ walkway curtain, Travel cover, Ski pole, Humminbird Helix 9 MSI on console, Minnkota Terrova US2 80/60”/24V I pilot, Snap in Marine Mat, Bow Cushions, Self Adjusting Smart Tabs. Engine: Mercury 200XL Pro XS four stroke w/ SS Prop. Trailer: Boat Mate diamond plate custom tandem axle trailer

Gillette Resident Jordan Rhodine Is Sheridan Region’s Newest Ultimate Angler

Wyoming Game & Fish Dept. https://wgfd.wyo.gov

In 2019, the Wyoming Game and Fish Department launched the Master Angler program to recognize anglers who catch trophy-sized game fish in Wyoming waters. The program features three levels of challenge - master, trophy and ultimate angler. Master Anglers must catch at least one fish species of qualifying length, Trophy Anglers must catch at least five species and Ultimate Anglers must catch at least ten species. They document their achievements with photos. Thirty-three anglers statewide have achieved Ultimate Angler status, four of them in the Sheridan region.

Jordan Rhodine is the latest resident in the Sheridan region to achieve the highest level of challenge...

Updated Adult Wild Spring

Chinook Regulations For Mainstem Umpqua And North Umpqua Rivers For 2023

Oregon Department Of Fish And Wildlife https://www.dfw.state.or.us

For the first time since 2019, anglers will be able to harvest adult wild spring Chinook in the mainstem Umpqua River. North Umpqua bag limits will remain the same as 2022.

In 2023 the mainstem Umpqua River bag limit will be one adult wild spring Chinook per day, five per season (Feb. 1 – June 30). North Umpqua regulations will remain at one adult wild spring Chinook per day and ten per season. Anglers are reminded that the mainstem Umpqua seasonal bag limit is in aggregate with the North Umpqua.

Anglers may still retain hatchery spring Chinook in addition to wild fish as part of their two salmon/ steelhead per day limit. Jack wild spring Chinook limits remain unchanged, see 2023 fishing regulations for details: https://www.eregulations.com/assets/ docs/guides/23ORFW.pdf.

The wild spring chinook bag limits for the North and mainstem Umpqua rivers are set annually by a sliding scale created as part of the Coastal Multi-Species Conservation and Management Plan. The abundance criteria, which incorporates 2022’s wild fish returns and the forecasted 2023 returns, is currently in the “medium” category of the sliding scale.

Nicholas Popejoy with a Chinook salmon. Photo courtesy ODFW

Jordan Rhodine with pike. Photo courtesy WFG

Your Mont a na T oyota Deal e rs are

P A S SION A T E

in their support of the ou t doors, an d g rou p s such a s the Rocky Mountain E lk Foun d ation w ith i t s mission t o conserve wil d life habi t at and o p en s p ac e .

2023 4RUNNER

An off-road icon.

Grab your gear — it’s going to be a wild ride. 4Runner has been championing the off-road for 40 years. With the dependability of a veteran and the hustle of a rookie, the 2023 Toyota 4Runner is equipped to take your adventures up a notch. For decades, 4Runners have earned the reputation of being an off-road icon, and we intend to keep it that way.

PUB LI C A CC ES S

For hunters, anglers and others who en joy experiencing the outdoors first-hand, it means everything. No access means no recreational oppor tunity.

The Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, in coordination with Lewis and Clark County, the Dan Barrett family, Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest and many other par tners collaborated to open 442 acres of prime wildlife and riparian habitat along Montana’s Rocky Mountain Front and place it in the public’s hands. Called the Falls Creek project, it greatly improves access to more than 27,000 acres of public land containing prime elk habitat beyond it.

The proper ty is primarily forestland and grassy meadows. It is located about 30 miles southwest of Augusta. Its entire eastern boundary is bordered by more than one mile of Falls Creek, including the scenic Falls Creek waterfall at the back of the acreage, while the western and nor thern boundaries are bordered by private lands and the Dearborn River.

The previously inaccessible Falls Creek trailhead and trail opened to the public on August 28, 2019, and provides access for hunting, fishing, hiking, camping, horseback riding and other non-motorized travel and recreational use.

Photos courtesy Kawdy Outfitters www.kawdyoutfitters.com

3 Reasons Why You Should Be Hunting Northern B.C.

By Ryan McSparran Kawdy Outfitters www.kawdyoutfitters.com

We may be biased. But there are many reasons we think northern British Columbia is the best hunting destination in North America – if not worldwide. Kawdy Outfitters owner Colin Niemeyer has been guiding stone sheep hunts here since he was a teenager. And there’s a good reason he jumped at the chance to purchase Kawdy Outfitters from legendary outfitter, Stan Lancaster when Stan decided to retire…

The remote northern edge of British Columbia offers a hunting experience that’s unparalleled elsewhere. We could ramble on about the benefits. But we’ll give you the three big reasons we think so highly of hunting northern BC:

2. There’s a High Density of Game

The next thing we enjoy most about hunting in northern B.C. is the density and variety of game that’s available to hunt. The wildlife here benefits from the remote nature of the area. This is a perfect recipe for an exciting hunt. On a 10-day hunt, it’s common for our hunters to take two different species. It takes hard work, but some of our hunters take three species in a single trip. From one camp location, you may be able to hunt moose, mountain caribou, mountain goat and stone sheep. There aren’t many places in the world that boast this kind of opportunity.

We are fortunate to hunt an area at the headwaters of the Yukon River drainage that’s so remote and expansive, it’s mind-boggling. As one of the most remote locations in North America, you could ride a horse for a week and never cross a road.

But unlike areas in the Yukon or Northwest Territories, the terrain here is well suited to hunting. Broad tundra plateaus and wide-open valleys make glassing for game much easier. Animals like moose and caribou are more highly visible here than they are in many parts of the Yukon. Our hunters can expect to see game, which leads right into our next reason…

3. The Trophy Quality is Excellent

Not only do we enjoy a high density of game, the trophy quality is just as good. Record book qualifying trophies of each species are taken each year. The remote nature of this area and the number of animals available adds up to high age classes and impressive trophy quality.

Because of these factors, nearly all of our hunts are combo hunts. We’re not just a moose outfit that kills a few caribou every year. Nor are we just a sheep outfit that takes a few goat hunters. Most of our hunters come ready for a true combination hunt. Of course each hunter has their priorities – but there’s no lack of opportunities!

For more information on hunting in northern British Columbia with Kawdy Outfitters, explore our website at www.kawdyoutfitters.com. If you’d like to speak with us about availability or any details, please don’t hesitate to contact us at 1-250-306-8624 or 1-250-540-1179 (Oct 15 – July1) and 1-250-651-1189 (July 1 – Oct 15).

1. It’s Remote And Huntable

STAY SHARP ALL YEAR LONG

HSM AMMUNITION

Pick up a box or more at your local sporting goods store or one of our online retailers.

FOR ALL OF YOUR SHOOTING NEEDS

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First Focal Plane Or Second Focal Plane Riflescope For Hunting?

By Brady Miller

Originally published at GOHUNT.com

There’s a ton of options out there nowadays when it comes to selecting a riflescope. You have MOA, MIL, various magnifications, different objectives, tube sizes and a ton more. But one of the hardest decisions seems to be around what focal plane to select.

In the past, I’ve always used second focal plane riflescopes for hunting. They have worked great for me on my rifles and I’ve taken a ton of animals with them, but a few years ago I wanted to try something new so I switched to a first focal plane system. Mainly this switch happened because I wanted to help people out with their decisions so I could better explain what option might work best for them and my opinion on them. They both work great, but I wanted to have real-world experience behind each design. What is a first focal plane (FFP) riflescope?

For starters, we need to define a first focal plane riflescope. This is probably the scope version that most people in hunting are a little unfamiliar with. On a first focal plane riflescope, the reticle grows as the image gets bigger when increasing magnification and it does so at the same rate. And as you decrease magnification, the reticle also shrinks as the image gets smaller. This is all because the reticle is located in front of the magnifying lens assembly in the scope.

A first focal plane riflescope also means you can always use those hash marks on the reticle for any elevation holdover or windage no matter what magnification you are on. This can be great if you don’t have time to dial in your turret in a hunting situation and you need to use the hashmarks.

As I stated earlier, the first focal plane riflescope was new to me a few years ago. And since the switch, I don’t know if I’ll ever go back.

The only downside I see is when you’re at super low magnification the reticle is almost too small to see, especially if you’re in thick timber or hunting in low light. I really notice this on my Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27x56 riflescope that is in a first focal plane setup when I go down to 4.5 power. To deal with this, if you’re hunting in a state that allows an illuminated reticle to hunt with, the illumination could allow you to make use of low power in the thick timber on a first focal plane setup. But for the most part, I don’t see this as a hindrance at all since 95% of the time I’m not hunting in thick timber at lower power. But it’s just something you should think about if you’re going to purchase a new riflescope.

Possibly one other downside is if you’re trying to shoot at a very small target in practice at a longer distance because your reticle may block the target due to it getting larger at max power. I’ve seen this happen when I’ve been practicing out in the desert while aiming at something really small and trying to be very precise.

One of the biggest benefits of a first focal plane riflescope is if you need to quickly make a shot and need to use the elevation or windage lines in the scope, this is when a first focal plane riflescope will shine. For the most part, since I’m a hunter first and not a competition precision rifle

shooter, these situations are a little rare for a hunter to need to quickly use elevation holdover marks, but it’s nice to have that feature if you’re ever in this situation on the buck of a lifetime.

Cost is another consideration. Usually, a first focal plane riflescope is a little more expensive than a second focal plane riflescope.

What is a second focal plane (SFP) riflescope?

Second focal plane riflescope is what everyone is most likely used to in hunting. The biggest thing you’ll notice on a second focal plane riflescope is the reticle stays the same size, and the target grows as you increase the magnification. This is due to the reticle being located behind the magnifying lens.

A second focal plane riflescope seems to be nicer to aim through because you have a finer aiming point due to the reticle staying small as you hit full magnification which is great when practicing long-range shots as your reticle isn’t covering up the spot you are trying to aim at.

The one main downside of a second focal plane riflescope is when dealing with adjusting the magnification to anything other than max power and using the reticle for any holdover or windage when taking a shot. If your second focal plane riflescope is set for max power, that means that the holdover lines in the reticle are only dialed in at that one magnification and will not be at the correct yardages if you drop to a lower magnification. So if you drop to a lower magnification and use the holdover lines, it won’t be to scale and you’ll miss the target. So to fix this, if you want to use any of the hashmarks, you must remember that it is only truly calibrated at max magnification.

Keep in mind... that no matter what, in a second focal plane riflescope you can always dial your turrets and use the center of the reticle no matter the magnification you are on. This change in impact discussed above is when using any of the hashmarks outside of the center of the reticle when you are on anything but max power.

This is why whenever I’m hunting, I’ll always shoot at an animal at the highest magnification. Second focal plane riflescopes have worked wonders for a ton of hunters throughout the years. Again, remember that dialing up on the turret on a second focal plane riflescope works perfectly if you just aim at the center dot of the reticle no matter what magnification you are on.

In summary, if you use a second focal plane scope and you want to use the holdover hashmarks, know it will be only valid for one magnification.

If I’m going to need to use the windage or elevation marks in my riflescope, 99.99% of the time I’m going to be at full magnification which means everything will be accurate in a second focal plane setup.

The way I’d explain my reasoning for a second focal plane scope for a lot of years is this; pretty much any shot over 300 yards I’m going to be at full magnification. So at that point, it really doesn’t matter what riflescope plane I’m using since I will be at full magnification and would be able to use the hashmarks on a second focal plane if needed, and I would also have the same benefits of a first focal.

Below is a quick series of graphics to help showcase some of the differences side by side at low magnification and high magnification.

5X MAGNIFICATION

Elk Guinness Stew Recipe

a 12 Gauge Girl www.huntingandcooking.com

25X MAGNIFICATION

INGREDIENTS:

4 packets unflavored gelatin

1 cup chicken stock

3 pounds elk meat, (left in steak slabs)

2 tablespoons high heat oil, (such as vegetable)

Four onions, halved

5 carrots, (roughly cut in large chunks)

4 cloves garlic, smashed

1/4 cup brewed coffee

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 16 ounce Guinness beers

Bundle of parsley, thyme, and bay leaves

1 to 2 tablespoons flour

1 to 2 pounds fingerling potatoes

Once again, on the first focal plane riflescope on the 25x power example, you’ll notice that the reticle grows as the image gets bigger due to adding magnification and it does so at the same rate. And on the second focal plane image, the reticle stays the same size as you increase the magnification.

In closing

One last thing I should mention, if you have a riflescope with turrets in either first or second focal plane, it does not matter what magnification you are if you aim using the center of the reticle. You will still make an impact with the correct distance dialed in the turret. You could be at low magnification on a second focal plane riflescope and dial in for a shot with the turret and make an impact. Then you could dial in for a longer shot using the turret and crank the magnification all the way up and still impact the target aiming at the center.

SO WHAT DO I PREFER AFTER USING BOTH?

At this point after using both for a long time now in hunting and practice, I’m still leaning toward first focal plane riflescopes. My dad, who also is very into rifles and long range shooting for practice and hunting, doesn’t like second focal plane scopes at all anymore either. Then if you’d ask my brother who I shoot with a ton... he prefers second focal plane on his hunting setup. So at the end of the day, both focal planes will absolutely work wonders for hunting, it just comes down to what your eyes might prefer and your use case...

3 carrots, small diced

1 onion, small diced

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 275 and place the cup of chicken stock in a bowl. Pour one packet of gelatin over the stock. Allow the gelatin to dissolve in the stock before adding the remaining three packets. At the end of four packets, stir the gelatin. It should form into small congealed balls. Set aside. In a heavy bottom pot or dutch oven, heat the oil over medium high heat. Add the steak slabs in small batches, so the temperature of the oil remains high. Brown each side for three to four minutes and then flip. Set meat aside to rest. Leaving the drippings in the pot, add the onions, carrots, and garlic. Brown for four minutes. If needed, reduced the heat to medium so the garlic does not burn. Add the coffee, fish sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and soy sauce to the pot. Scrape the bottom to remove any drippings from the pot bottom. Add the Guinness beer and bring to a boil. Place bundle of parsley, thyme, and bay leaves into pot. Reduce the pot to a simmer. Cut the meat into bite size piece. Place in bowl and coat with flour, ensuring even covering. Add meat to pot, place lid partially over, and place in oven. Allow to cook for one hour, stirring every twenty minutes or so. Add potatoes, cook an additional 30 minutes. Add diced carrots and onions, could also add parsnips or turnips too. Cook additional 45 minutes.

Graphics created by Dave Barnett

Photo credit a 12 Gauge Girl www.huntingandcooking.com

How To Range A Distance With Only Your Riflescope

By Jacob Pelle Outdoor Empire www.outdoorempire.com

Whether you forgot your rangefinder at home, it broke in the field, or you want to learn how to find the distance to target without a rangefinder accurately, hunters sometimes use their scope to determine how far away a target is.

The question most often asked is: Can you accurately use a scope to range a target?

You CAN use only your scope to accurately range a target. Scopes usually have MOA or MRAD markings which are units of measurement that represent angle. Using a formula, hunters can place accurate shots on target out to 800 yards by plugging in the target size in inches and the target size in MOA or MRAD, depending on your scope.

This article covers how to accurately range your target with your scope and a few factors you should consider when using this method of determining distance.

Why Range Finding is Important

No matter what weapon system you use when hunting, gravity strongly affects the bullet trajectory.

Even the beloved, flat shooting 6.5 Creedmoor drops nearly 55 inches at 500 yards.

For hunters who don’t know how to or can’t determine the distance to target, this can mean missing the game entirely or nonfatally wounding an animal, causing unnecessary pain and suffering.

I’ve seen hunters guess at the distance to target or not factor it in, causing them to shoot both high and low, and miss a big trophy game at distances from 200-600 yards. To avoid this, hunters can purchase a rangefinder, use their scope, or use other methods.

How to Calculate Distance with Your Scope

Using your scope to determine the distance to target requires some simple math and a good scope. A good scope has hash marks (MOA/MRAD) etched into it, which allow you to range your target accurately.

Using this information and the height of your target, you can quickly come up with a solution that gives you a close approximation of distance and what your holdover should be.

The Formula

There are two formulas used to determine distance through the scope.

The first is the MOA (Minute of Angle) Formula:

Target Size (Inches) X 95.5

______________________ = Distance to Target Target Size in MOA

The second is the MRAD (Milliradian) Formula: Target Size(Inches) X 27.77

______________________ = Distance to Target Target Size in MRAD

Here are two examples of the equation. How to Range with an MOA Scope

16 inches is a good size from backbone to belly on a Whitetail where I come from. Through your scope, that area is covered by 5 MOA marks because of the reticle. Your equation should go as follows:

(16×95.5)

________ = ? 5

If you’ve done your calculations correctly, the distance to the target should be about 305.6 yards.

How to Range with an MIL Scope

For the same animal, let’s use the MRAD formula. The deer measures 16 inches from belly to backbone and covers 1.5 Mil in your scope reticle.

(16×27.77)

_________ = ?

1.5

If you did your math, it chalks up to about 296.21 yards.

Personal Experience

I used the MOA formula when shooting a large Whitetail in Mississippi with a Remington .30-06 at about 106 yards. Alone at 7:00 am on a chilly December morning with the wind so cold I regretted not wearing a second pair of long johns, I heard the unmistakable thundering of hooves over the chattering of my teeth.

Buck fever took over, and as the deer rushed past my ground blind on the side of a dike overlooking the farm pond, I took point-blank aim, squeezed the trigger, and missed…twice.

Cursing myself for letting adrenaline get the best of me, I watched in shock as the deer sprinted to the levee’s end and slowed to a walk after hitting the food plot to my left.

Photos courtesy Outdoor Empire www.outdoorempire.com

Whether he thought it was thunder or was just not as intellectually gifted as another whitetail, I’m not one to look a gift horse in the mouth.

He was a big one. 16 inches was my guess, and it covered over 12 MOA. ( I shouldn’t have needed the formula at this distance, but I wanted to confirm my shot.)

I did the quick math ( I was a lot better at mental arithmetic back then), put the reticle behind his right shoulder, slightly higher than the center, and fired.

He dropped like he had been struck by lightning. I ran over, saw that he was still breathing, and put a security round in him to finish the job.

Had I not used the equation, I probably could have made the shot. But using that method definitely helped me put my bullet where it needed to go and gave me the confidence I lacked from my two previous misses.

Accurately Estimating Animal Size

Estimating the size of an animal can be difficult, and it can have major implications on your shot if guessed incorrectly. Plenty of outdoor publications provide general ballpark size estimates for various species of big game. It’s also recommended that you check your local fish and game website, which often provides an accurate list of sizes compiled by biologists to help you guess.

However, the two most accurate ways to determine an animal’s size are practice and recording the size of the game you’ve killed.

You can practice by guessing at objects in your backyard, in the woods, or on the street and then measuring them to determine how far off you were. With a bit of practice,

you can get your approximations pretty close, allowing you to make an educated guess out in the field.

If your area is known for trophy Whitetail or Mulies, a fluctuation of an inch up or down depending on how the deer looks is not a bad idea.

You may be asking yourself, does an inch make a major difference when shooting at a distance?

The answer is more surprising than you might think.

(continued next page)

Recording the size of the game you killed can give you an idea of what to expect from other game in the region.

How To Range A Distance With Only Your Riflescope

(continued from page 27)

For instance, let’s say you’re taking a shot at a deer that covers 4 MOA. The deer is 16 inches, but you guess 17.

(17×95.5)

________ = A little over 400 yards

4 MOA

Not a bad shot.

Let’s look at the difference using the actual size of 16 inches. (16×95.5)

________ = 386yards

4 MOA

Close distances will cause you to be off between 10-20 yards, but at 2.5 MOA, that’s over a 40-yard difference. That’s why it’s essential to guess sizes accurately when calculating distance with your scope.

A Good Scope

While sticking to a budget is essential, don’t be cheap. Buy a good scope. Investing in a critical piece of hardware like a riflescope can help you accurately range your targets. While hunters go back and forth on the pros and cons of MRAD vs. MOA, it’s more important to invest in a scope that works best for you.

If you find you can do the math better with one or like how it looks through the scope better, stick with that one.

When purchasing a scope you may use to range targets, it’s important to factor in three things:

Scope clarity - Hash mark definition - Scope power

There are plenty of quality scopes at an affordable price, but don’t let the price tag be your deciding factor. Vortex, Nightforce, Leupold, and Zeiss all make quality scopes in a wide price range.

Wind

Many people think the wind is something you lick your finger for, feel the breeze, and can tell which way the wind is blowing. Most hunters don’t consider that the wind can be different from your position at the target with longer shots. This problem can be solved with a high-end laser range finder and/or a ballistic calculator. Or you could just get closer to the animal; your choice.

Get a Rangefinder

Before delving into using your scope to determine the range, hunters must note that this method is an approximation and not exact science.

Using a rangefinder, you can determine the target’s precise distance without doing extra math or guessing at a target size.

If money is an issue, budget rangefinders start at a little over $100 and are easily stowed in a pack or jacket during a backcountry hunt. These lightweight pieces of gear are worth their weight in gold, so serious hunters should look into purchasing one before heading out into the woods or backcountry in pursuit of big game.

Conclusion

Hunters can accurately range prey using a scope and some simple math. However, it should be noted that this does involve some guessing and the distance is often a close approximation...

5 Guns Every Hunter Needs

By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com

To have a blast shooting targets and hunting every species of game bird and animal across America, you only need 5 firearms.

.22 Long Rifle (LG)

Every man, woman and child on Earth needs a good old .22, whether for plinking paper or potting a mess of squirrels in October. It’s the rifle that most of us grew up with. The one you need to get into your kid’s hands as soon as he or she is ready to join our shooting fraternity.

Quiet to shoot and with no recoil, a rimfire rifle is the perfect tool for young or new shooters. For those of you who have been hunting awhile, think of a .22 as the perfect understudy for your deer rifle. You can go to the range several times a year and comfortably shoot a scoped .22 rifle all day long to fine-tune your sight picture, breathing, alignment and trigger control. There’s no better practice for the upcoming whitetail season, I don’t care how experienced you are.

The .22LR has long been the most popular cartridge in America, and today’s rimfire rifles are of the best quality yet. No matter your preference or budget, there’s a sweetingshooting bolt-action or autoloader for you.

Bolt-Action Deer Rifle

I could write for days about deer rifles, but here I’ll simplify things: Any centerfire rifle that shoots a 140- to a 180-grain bullet accurately out to 250-300 yards is a good choice for hunting any species of deer anywhere in North America. Five calibers you should consider: .270, .308, 7mm-08, .30-06 and 7mm Rem. Mag. There are many more adequate cartridges out there and new rounds popping up every so often, but go with one of the aforementioned and proven 5 and you’ll be happy.

I have 3 favorites:

.270: As hunting cartridges go, the .270 is a plenty accurate round with manageable recoil; no question, the less “kick” of a rifle, the better people shoot and hunt with it. While the perfect caliber for whitetails, the .270 with a 140-grain bullet is fine if you get a hankering to go West for mule deer.

Photos courtesy Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com

7mm-08: Overlooked by too many hunters, this round is accurate, easy-to-shoot and has minimal recoil. The 7mm-08 is an especially good choice for young hunters and women. I use mine to hunt Texas whitetails every year.

If you want more firepower and can handle more recoil, you can’t go wrong with the time-proven .30-06. If you choose a bolt-action that fits you well and feels comfortable and snug on your shoulder and cheek, the recoil of an ’06 actually isn’t that bad. A thumper for whitetails and muleys; move up to the 180-grain bullet and you can hunt every hoofed mammal in North America, including elk and moose.

While some rifles will shoot better than others right out of the box, any new bolt gun you purchase will be more than accurate enough for deer hunting. All you really need is a rifle/scope/ammo combo that will shoot a 3-shot group that measures 2 inches or less at 100 yards. That’s a bar easy to meet, and most .30-06 rifles with good scopes shoot better.

Final thoughts:

Barrels on today’s hunting rifles are typically 22 or 24 inches, either is fine. Lightweight synthetic stocks are tough, look okay and shed rain. Many rifles come from the factory with trigger pulls of 5 pounds or more. You will shoot better with a crisp-breaking, 3 ½- to 4-pound trigger. Have a qualified guy at your gun shop measure the trigger and lighten the pull if necessary.

Shotgun

“Bird Gun” is our Southern term for a wood-stocked, lightweight, sweet-handling, 12- or 20-gauge shotgun that is perfect for breaking clay pigeons or shooting a limit of quail, doves or pheasants.

We’re talking semi-auto or over/under chambered for 2 3/4-inch shells (typically No. 7 1/2 to 9 shot), with a 24- to 26-inch barrel fitted with chokes tubes. Skeet, Improved Cylinder and Modified are the top tubes you’ll need and use.

A bird gun is the cream of the crop of this collection, and will run you $1,000 to $2,000 or a bit more. Shop around and check out the used gun rack at your local gun shop. Think of it as a lifelong investment, a gun you can pass along to one of your kids.

Bottom line, you need a fine shotgun to get the most enjoyment out of your wing-shooting, be it for clay pigeons or live feathers.

Either 12- or 20-gauge is okay. If you’ll shoot mostly skeet and clays, I’d recommend a 20. If you’ll hunt a lot of doves, grouse and heavier pheasants, I’d go with a 12-gauge.

You could screw a Full Choke tube into your bird gun and use it to kill a turkey or a limit of mallards—I’ve done that a bunch of times–but there is a better choice of gun for that.

Magnum Shotgun

While not a gun you’ll shoot every month, you need a heavyduty 12-gauge magnum for your arsenal. It’s the ticket for turkey hunting in the spring, and a workhorse for shooting ducks and geese in fall and winter.

Your choice of pump or semi-auto, chambered for 3- and 3 ½-inch shotshells and cloaked in camo of course. If you’ll hunt mostly waterfowl, go with a 26- or 28-inch barrel. While that same barrel will work fine for gobblers, many of today’s specialty turkey guns have 21- or 22-inch barrels, which are easier to carry and maneuver in the woods. A variety of choke tubes for either steel or turkey loads are available in any gun you choose.

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I’ve been shooting a lot of handguns lately, mostly for the fun of it. But it is not lost on me that crime is surging in many parts of the country. I want to be proficient with a pistol and ready to protect my family and property, and you should be too.

For ease of use and dependability, you can’t beat a double-action revolver. Load up, aim at the target and pull the trigger 5 or 6 times until the gun is empty.

There are many makes and sizes of revolvers on the market, from little stub-nose guns to huge “hog legs” like Wayne and Eastwood famously used to save the day in western movies. Do your research. For most people, a mid-size revolver with a 5- or 6-inch barrel is about right. Heavy enough to absorb recoil, but light enough to aim and hold steady on target.

Caliber-wise, you can’t go wrong with a .38 or .357.

I started out with revolvers and still use them, but these days I do most of my shooting with a semi-auto handgun.

The semi has 3 advantages over the revolver: less recoil, typically a better trigger, and more fun to shoot. A day at the range, running 10- to 13-shot magazines through a semi-auto, is pure ecstasy for a gun nut like me.

A semi-auto does require more thorough cleanings than a revolver, but I look at that as a good thing. It makes you learn your weapon—how to dissemble it, clean it and reassemble it after every shooting session. You come to know your weapon and feel confident and safe with it.

Again, do your research online and at the gun shop. There are many makes, sizes and calibers of semi-autos to choose from. A big consideration: Many of these handguns have thumb safeties, while some have no safety. Think about that and go with one you feel most comfortable with.

For most of you, my current arsenal of semi-autos is a good guideline. I shoot a full-size .45 double-stack Glock that measures 7½ from rear of slide to the muzzle. My wife shoots a smaller, lighter version of the same gun in 9mm. There are other calibers, but love the .45 and 9mm!

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Why Should I Enter My Trophy?

By Jason Rounsaville, Executive Director

The Pope And Young Club https://pope-young.org

Ihave the good fortune of traveling all over the country, meeting hunters of all descriptions. When they find out I work for Pope and Young, I hear all kinds of excitement, confusion, and the occasional hesitation. There are many things that need to be clarified about records organizations...

The Pope and Young measuring system is based on and used with the permission of the Boone and Crockett system. There are a few differences, but overall a very similar system, and our organizations work together very closely to ensure the integrity of both programs. The most recent measuring manual was a joint project between both organizations. The Boone and Crockett system was initially a way to document big game species in the fear that many of these species would become extinct. Fortunately, they underestimated the North American hunter and wildlife conservation potential. The Pope and Young records were developed to prove to federal and state fish and game agencies that the bow and arrow was an effective way to harvest mature animals across the spectrum of species. The program was successful because we now have archery seasons across North America. There are several reasons why a person chooses not to enter an animal. Too much hassle, don’t know a measurer, don’t want their secret spot disclosed, or don’t want to hear the truth of an official score on their trophy. Many hunters seem satisfied with the measurements they get from their uncle’s buddy. It takes a multi-day official measuring course, stringent training, a 268-page manual, and the passing of a test to become an official measurer.

Here are some reasons why you should choose to enter your trophies. It gives you a true official and accepted measurement of your trophy. Your entry and associated fees help contribute to conservation efforts. All the records programs I’m aware of have a component that gives back to the resource. The records programs are used for scientific studies, from the effectiveness of management strategies to gauging habitat quality. They provide valuable information to wildlife managers across the continent. These records provide thousands of individual specimen measurements and millions of data points using a standardized measuring process across the entire spectrum of North American species. Our duty as a hunter is to contribute toward managing the animals we pursue. Plus, your trophy-caliber animal deserves it.

Congress Delivers Big Win For Deer, Elk And Hunters

Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation (RMEF) www.rmef.org

Critical financial help is on the way for researchers and game managers dealing with chronic wasting disease (CWD). Congress included the Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) Research and Management Act within the Omnibus Budget Bill that passed prior to adjournment of the recently completed 117th session.

“This funding to fight CWD was a 2022 legislative priority for the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation, and is vitally important for the future of elk and other ungulates, CWD research, wildlife management and hunting,” said Kyle Weaver, RMEF president and CEO. “We salute Congress and thank our coalition partners, RMEF members and sportsmen and women for helping to push this across the finish line.”

RMEF worked with the Boone and Crockett Club to organize a coalition of conservation and wildlife organizations that worked together for a year and a half leading up to the legislative victory.

“This took a lot of heavy lifting and work behind the scenes,” said Blake Henning, RMEF chief conservation officer. “RMEF met with lawmakers on Capitol Hill and had at least 50 calls or meetings with staff and members to get bipartisan sponsors and secure votes for passage. RMEF members also generated hundreds of letters to their representatives that helped turn the tide.”

The legislation bolsters CWD research to develop testing methods, enhance detection efforts, better understand genetic resistance and assists with management by prioritizing funding for state and tribal wildlife agencies that have the highest incidence and greatest risk of CWD. Congress appropriated $19.5 million for CWD efforts in 2023.

RMEF is a founding member and sponsor of the Chronic Wasting Disease Alliance. In January 2022, RMEF announced the allocation of $100,000 in grant funding to assist with research promoting the scientific understanding of CWD.

CWD is a progressive, degenerative and always fatal nervous system disease found in both farmed and free-ranging deer, elk and moose. It may be transmitted through direct animal-to-animal contact, contact with saliva, feces or carcass parts of an infected animal, and may also spread through soil contaminated with any of the above fluids or tissues. So far, scientists confirmed its presence in 30 states, five Canadian provinces and two countries overseas.

Photo courtesy RMEF

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What Makes Great Low-Light Performance

Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com

The optical system design, lens design, and coatings on the lenses are what determine how good an optic is in low light. Pretty simple, right? Well, not necessarily. There’s a lot of information and misinformation out there about what makes an optic work well in low light, and we’re here to shine a little light on the subject.

OBJECTIVE LENS DIAMETER ISN’T THAT IMPORTANT

First, let’s get this out of the way: Objective lens diameter has something to do with it, but is not the most important aspect. Too many people will tell you the objective lens is basically the only thing that matters, but they’re only saying that because it’s the only thing they can see and the only lens in the system that’s given its own number in the scope’s name (like a 4-16x50). That “50” is referring to the objective lens diameter. What you don’t see is a bunch of other numbers behind that “50” about the 5, 10, maybe even 15 other lenses behind that one! All are very important; you can shove as much light as you want down the bell of a scope with a massive objective, but if all the lenses behind it can’t handle it, the image will still be disappointing.

A WORD OR THREE ON COATINGS

Most people just kind of blow off optical coatings and want to talk about the glass or lens size, but there are countless chemical makeups of coatings and it really is like an art form for optical engineers to not only develop the lenses and optical system in a scope, but also determine the best recipe of anti-reflective coatings to keep the wrong light out of the scope and keep the best light flowing through the lenses, to your eye.

It’s also more complicated than it looks. Not only are the chemical compositions of lens coatings different, there are actually different ways of coating a lens.

For example: You might hear about coated, fully coated and fully multi-coated lenses. In general, different manufacturers can use these terms a little differently, but in the end, “fully multicoated” usually means that all surface-to-air glass is coated, and that’s ideal. You will likely pay more for such coatings, but if you demand low-light performance, “fully multicoated” is more likely to get you the optical experience you’re looking for.

OBJECTIVE LENS DIAMETER IS IMPORTANT

It isn’t completely a moot point.

If you took the same exact riflescope and changed nothing else other than making the objective lens bigger, you would be allowing more light into the scope and probably most importantly - improving your exit pupil. Exit pupil most of the time can be calculated by dividing the objective lens diameter by whatever magnification you’re on. A 50mm bell on a riflescope set at 10x will have a 5mm exit pupil.

As our adult eyes age, the ability for the pupil to dilate in darkness becomes less and less, and our pupils may only be able to dilate 4-6mm, so there’s a chance some of the exit pupil from a riflescope like that might even be wasted as it’s not even making it through your pupil.

The point here remains, though: Your optic will always perform better in low light on a lower magnification, as the exit pupil will increase to maximize the ability of your eye to take in as much light as possible.

When it comes to low-light performance, optical design and quality of lenses and coatings is most important. A higher end optical system with a relatively smaller objective bell will almost always trump a lower-end optic with a giant objective. Objective bell size does affect exit pupil, but your eye can only suck in so much light, even in the dark as it dilates and your pupils become larger. Lowering your magnification will also help greatly in low-light scenarios.

In general, when you spend more on an optic, one of the things you’re spending more on are better lens coatings and better glass, and that can matter way more than a bigger objective lens.

Photos courtesy Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com

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TRY A NATURAL BLIND

By Tom Cooper

I’m not sure, so I’ll ask: who doesn’t know how to assemble a ground blind? This article isn’t about how to set up a tent with shooting windows, maybe a nice, heated recliner, then corn all around to attract your deer. I do not deny that a tent blind or a small shack on stilts has its place in today’s list of hunting alternatives. However, my article is about how to use what nature provides to set up natural concealment that just might let deer or elk move close enough, naturally, for a hunter to take advantage of the situation. Since I just used three versions of the word “nature’’ in one sentence, you probably aren’t surprised I call these “natural blinds”.

Why, you might ask, would one even consider assembling a natural blind? I can suggest several reasons: 1) many of us, let’s say mature, hunters don’t or can’t, or at least won’t climb trees anymore to use a tree stand, 2) most Western states’ hunters tend to use vast areas for hunting (a combination of public and private lands) and simply cannot manage multiple commercial blinds or stands, especially on public ground, 3) natural blinds allow hunters to shoot from a standing position, 4) natural blinds can be quickly assembled and easily improved if needed when you arrive to hunt, and 5) natural blinds are temporary; at the end of the season, disassemble it, if necessary.

What are the Property Rules?

Before you charge off to your favorite hunting area with a natural blind blueprint, you need to examine the rules for that property. For private property, you should contact the owner and ask about cutting trees (dead or alive), trimming branches and brush, moving/stacking dead trees and branches, and whether permanent blinds are allowed. At a minimum public ground will require a review of federal or state regulations, usually available at public lands offices or their web sites. If the regulations seem vague, find the agency’s land manager and ask your questions. There are significant differences, depending on the purpose of the public land.

For example, in Montana some wildlife management areas prohibit disturbance of vegetation, dead or alive. Other public lands may not specifically restrict branch trimming, but cutting live trees of any size may not be allowed, and permanent stands/blinds may or may not be permitted. National Forests and the Bureau of Land Management generally do not restrict disturbing dead or decaying material, but probably prohibit cutting live trees. Bottomline is before assembling a natural blind from available forest materials, find out what is allowed on the property.

Location, Location, Location

Before discussing how to assemble a natural blind, your next step is to find a location where deer or elk frequent. Generally that means watering holes and food sources because they are good locations for natural blinds, just as they are for tree stands and commercial blinds. Specifically for elk during early seasons, a good location might mean wallows. For Whitetail deer it might mean rubbed trees or scrape lines. In terms of importance, right after food and water comes annual ruts and breeding.

Frequently, a good blind location overlooks the intersection of two or more game trails.

Look for Significant Natural Components

When you find an ideal spot, what’s next? The most basic natural blind is a “wall” created by trimming a few branches off one side of a pine or fir tree.

The hunter stands behind the tree with room to draw a bow or shoot a rifle. Otherwise, start with a chunk of Mother Nature to serve as a primary wall (like a large live tree or a boulder). Typically, dead branches can be added for more cover. Another possibility is a large deadfall that serves as a primary wall. If a really large deadfall provides adequate cover, it might serve as your entire blind (no assembly, or disassembly, required). However, a deadfall with a lot of branches usually needs a little trimming (with trusty garden shears) to create shooting lanes or openings to see through. The opposite might also be true; for a little more cover, stack branches on the deadfall.

In other instances, a live tree could become a center post for a V-shaped structure, with two walls created by stacking dead branches or smaller deadfall trees to form the “V” enclosure.

All photos credit Tom

Similarly, another design uses two fairly large live trees as corners, maybe 3-5 feet apart. Two trees facilitate stacking of forest materials in three directions to create a U- or horseshoe-shape structure. Don’t use wire or nylon rope to secure components; just stack the stuff as best you can.

Generally, chest high is adequate for archery hunting, or a little higher might be better for gun hunting. Natural blinds should be easy to assemble (or disassemble if necessary); if a hunter spends over 30 minutes assembling a natural blind, it is probably too large or complicated. Disassembly of a portion might be a good option.

Don’t Forget a Chair

For every blind, a seat or bench to sit on is a good idea. Standing for hours wears us down and ultimately shortens the time spent in the blind. One option is to carry a lightweight stool. However, a natural seat can be assembled using short chunks of dead trees, just like Lincoln logs (most of us remember those), forming a small bench. A large rock, if available, is another option. Locate the seat near the back of the blind, out of the way when the hunter stands and prepares to shoot.

Include Blinds in your Scouting

Since scouting is usually a big part of a hunter’s preparation for next season, it makes sense to include natural blinds you expect to use. This is important because natural blinds begin to deteriorate almost immediately. Heavy rain can easily knock down a wall constructed with brush and branches. Strong winds quickly disassemble a casually built natural blind. In Montana, snow is a major culprit as it crushes stacked forest materials right to the ground. Refurbishing natural blinds is just part of the process. Of course one good reason to include blinds when you scout is: sometimes hunters don’t recall exactly where they are in the first place.

And if you don’t refurbish your blind, it will disappear as nature consumes the materials.

One point to remember about natural blinds assembled on public land is they will be used by the hunter arriving first. A natural blind will not be a secret, public land means public use.

Controlling your scent, particularly as you approach a natural blind, requires a little thought.

Natural blinds might not be very effective if hunters arrive with the wind at their back. Mountain winds are a problem, because elevation changes and obstacles (like mountains) cause the wind to shift and swirl.

Focus on the most common wind direction when determining how to approach a natural blind.

Identifying alternative approaches as part of scouting is a good idea.

How long can you stay in your stand or blind? Experience says most of us get bored and leave too soon.

My suggestion is to bring a good paperback (I love Westerns). I’ve found when reading, and I hear a noise, I react by looking in exactly the right direction. If randomly looking around, I’m less likely to quickly pinpoint the direction of the sound. A good book will keep you in a natural blind longer.

Caution: Dead Trees

Hunters beware. More specifically, be careful about selecting large standing dead trees as a part of a natural blind.

Where a forest fire has killed trees, or if you hunt in an area with significant beetle infestation, those trees can collapse any time. On several occasions during the last twenty-plus years, I’ve observed blinds with a large dead tree laying across them,crushing the whole thing. I believe it’s best not to be there when the crash happens.

Natural is Another Option: Try It

My purpose in writing this article was to provide new and old hunters alike an option to consider. I’m sure many of you recognize natural blinds are not new to the hunting scene. I can think of one old example. How many turkey hunts have we watched on television’s outdoor channels, where hunters sit with their backs against a tree and they stack a few bushy branches in front of them for concealment? Pretty sure I would call that a natural blind. Try it, you might like it.

6 Items Not To Overlook When Packing For A Spring Bear Hunt

By Ryan McSparran Caribou Gear Outdoor Equipment Co. www.caribougear.com

Springbear hunting will require some obvious gear like good optics, a quality backpack and a versatile layering system. But there are a few items that might be easy to overlook as you’re packing for a spring bear hunt. Here are a few things you might want to remember, and why we think they’re important:

1. Mountain Boots Some of the best places to look for emerging black bears in the spring are on steep slopes in very rugged terrain. While mountain black bears tend to hibernate on steep, north-facing slopes, the first place you’re likely to see them in the spring is on the opposite south side, where green grass and flowers first appear. When hunting in steep and rugged terrain, one of the first pieces of gear to consider is a pair of quality mountain boots. We’d recommend a tall boot with excellent support and a waterproof/breathable membrane. Our pick on spring hunts is the Kenetrek Mountain Extreme. This boot comes in a 400-gram insulated men’s version and women’s version. We find this lightly insulated boot to be a perfect fit for spring and fall hunts when the weather is highly variable. These boots are comfortably stiff yet lightweight, making them an ideal boot for steep mountain terrain. We highly recommend a tall boot like this, plus a set of gaiters when hunting in wet spring conditions. This combination will keep your feet dry and comfortable.

Finally, don’t forget the importance of high quality socks. The best boots in the world won’t function properly with poor socks. Kenetrek’s merino-blend socks manage moisture effectively, keeping your feet blister-free and comfortable on long hunts. These socks are available in a medium weight, heavy weight and super heavy weight. Additionally, we recommend carrying a liner sock. This can be a great addition when the weather turns cold or when you need additional padding.

2. Glassing Kit It’s no secret that spring black bear hunting means glassing…lots and lots of glassing. But beyond the binoculars, what else should you bring? When you’re glassing for hours, it’s essential to have your binoculars on a tripod. If you’re not used to mounting binoculars on a tripod, you might be surprised at the difference it makes. Binocular mounting adapters are available from most optics companies. Of course higher powered binos like 12s or 15s require a tripod. But even your standard 8x42 or 10x42 binoculars will greatly benefit from being mounted on a tripod. The difference can be so remarkable, you might feel like you’re using a new set of binos. Use a tripod with a smooth-panning head, and you’ll be much more comfortable for hours behind your binoculars. Long days on the mountain glassing for black bears will also require some comfort items. Pack a lightweight sitting pad or folding chair. A great ultra-lightweight option is the Therm-a-Rest Z-Seat. If you’ll be glassing close to your vehicle, a folding camp chair is a great item to have in the truck.

3. Lightweight Stove System Speaking of comfort itemssince you’ll be spending hours behind the glass on a spring bear hunt, be sure to pack a lightweight stove system so that you can enjoy warm meals on the mountain.

Your best bet for spotting a bear is to live where the bears are. Plan on being in a glassing position throughout the daylight hours. A lightweight and fuel-efficient JetBoil cook system will help you stay energized and focused during those long days of hunting.

Quick, lightweight meals from Peak Refuel or Mountain House are the perfect pick-me-up. Whether it’s a breakfast or a mid-day meal, the extra calories and the hot food will help keep you in the game.

Additionally, pack some of your favorite snacks. A break from the typical backpacking food can lift your spirits. Whether it’s Fritos, candy bars, hot chocolate, or your favorite salami, bring whatever it takes to stay comfortable during these long days. The more you can stay focused, the better your chances for success.

4. Bullet Wallet Keep extra ammo quickly accessible with a Caribou Gear Bullet Wallet. Built with Cordura Ballistic fabric, these bullet wallets are designed to securely hold extra rounds while protecting soft and polymer tips. The Bullet Wallets are available in a 5-round and 10-round versions. For those carrying a sidearm in grizzly country, check out the Bullet Wallet that holds 5 rifle and 10 handgun rounds.

5. Hunter’s Tarp The Caribou Gear Hunter’s Tarp is the ultimate backcountry hunting companion. At just 4.3 ounces, it’s a no-brainer to keep in your pack on any mountain hunt.

The new Hunter’s Tarp comes with 4 stakes. At 4-feet by 5-feet, it provides a clean surface while you’re quartering an animal and is perfect for deboning meat on the ground. When packing out bear meat and hide, it doesn’t have to leave your backpack a bloody mess. The Caribou Gear Hunter’s Tarp is no ordinary SilTarp. It is totally waterproof and highly durable. Even under heavy weight, blood will not soak through. Swaddle your meat and/or hide in the Hunter’s Tarp to keep your pack clean and blood-free.

When you’re not packing meat, the Hunter’s Tarp can quickly pitch for an impromptu shelter during a spring snow or thunderstorm. Use a tree, trekking poles or a combination of the two, create a perfect shelter to continue glassing while you wait out a storm.

With so many uses and in such a lightweight package, the Hunter’s Tarp should be an essential part of every hunter’s kit.

6. Kill Kit Black bear meat is excellent, especially from mountain bears. Come prepared to take care of the meat as well as the hide.

Your kill kit starts with good knives. The Randy Newberg Series knives from Gerber are perfect for skinning and quartering a black bear.

Next, you’ll need a quality set of game bags. The Caribou Gear Small Magnum Pack is the right size for a black bear and includes seven game bags: 4 quarter bags, 1 parts bag for loose meat, 1 cape bag for the hide and 1 camp meat bag.

If you’d like to go with a lighter weight system, consider the Muley from our High Country Series. This system will fit an entire bone-in quartered black bear and includes five game bags: 4 quarter bags and 1 meat parts bag for loins and other loose meat.

If you plan to debone your bear meat in the field, you’ll want to use our Carnivore system. With five bags for deboned meat and I.D. tags for each bag, you’ll be able to fit the meat from an entire deboned black bear.

Finally, your kill kit isn’t complete without plenty of paracord. We also recommend a Hanger system for hanging meat and/or your food at camp...

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Glendive Berg’s Tire

Great Falls Falls Tire Service

Helena Eagle Tire

Helena Kolar Tire 3213 Euclid Ave.

Helena Kolar Tire Hwy 12. E

Kalispell M&C Tire

Lewistown OK Tire Store

Missoula Big Sky Tire

Plains Gary’s Glass & Auto Body

Plentywood Jones Tire, Inc.

Polson Beacon Tire

Ronan Arnie’s Gas & Tire Center

Shelby Mark’s Tire

2023 Subaru Outback ®

Find your new favorite places in a versatile, capable 2023 Outback.

• Equipped with standard Symmetrical AWD

• EyeSight® Driver Assist Technology1

• SUBARU STARLINK® Multimedia with Apple CarPlay® and Android Auto™2

• X-MODE®

• Hill Descent Control (HDC)

• Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC)

• LED Steering Responsive Headlights

• Raised roof rails with integrated cross bars and tie-down points and so much more!

Subaru, Outback, EyeSight, STARLINK, X-MODE and Apple CarPlay are registered trademarks. Android is a trademark of Google Inc. 1EyeSight is a driver-assist system that may not operate optimally under all driving conditions. The driver is always responsible for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors, such as vehicle maintenance, weather, and road conditions. See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. Requires automatic transmission. 2Compatible smartphone and application required. For applications to operate, latest version of each application required. Data provided by smartphone is displayed on head unit screen. Some state laws prohibit the operation of handheld electronic devices while operating a vehicle. Smartphone apps should only be launched when vehicle is safely parked. Your wireless carrier’s rates may apply. All SiriusXM services require a subscription, sold separately by SiriusXM after the trial period. Your SiriusXM service will automatically stop at the end of your trial unless you decide to subscribe. If you decide to continue service, the subscription plan chosen will automatically renew and be charged according to your chosen payment method at the thencurrent rates. Fees and taxes apply. See the SiriusXM Customer Agreement & Privacy Policy at www.siriusxm.com for full terms and how to cancel, which includes online methods or calling 1-866-635-2349. Available in the 48 contiguous United States, D.C., and Puerto Rico (with coverage limits and capable receiver). Visit http://www.siriusxm.com/FAQS for most current service area information. Availability of some services and features is subject to device capabilities and location restrictions. All fees, content and features are subject to change. SiriusXM, Pandora and all related logos are trademarks of Sirius XM Radio Inc. and its respective subsidiaries. 2023 Subaru Outback Onyx Edition XT shown with accessory equipment. Take a video tour here: https://www.subaru.com/vehicles/outback/gallery.html