Montana Hunting & Fishing News - May 2019

Page 1

HUNTING & FISHING MONTANA

May 2019

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Photo courtesy Ryan McSparran

Line Management, The

Achilles Heel of New Anglers

By Zach Lazzari Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com

line management is a little like learning how to ride Luntilearning a bike for the first time. It’s uncoordinated and awkward you gain confidence and start building muscle memory.

New anglers and instructors tend to focus on casting. However, the actual line management aspect of fly fishing is often overlooked and under appreciated. Managing line is crucial to casting, presenting and being an effective fly angler. BASIC SKILLS The first aspect of line management is the separation of your rod hand and line hand. These are two separate entities that work together. When you cast, the line hand should not follow the rod hand. The line hand is controlling the line and at a lower elevation unless you are hauling to increase line speed. Separating your hands is like patting your head and rubbing your belly at the same time. You must teach your brain to distinguish between the two motions.

4 | Hunting & Fishing News

The second aspect of line control is your grip on the line. When casting, you increase distance by allowing the line to shoot between your fingers in increments. Learning to grasp and control the line while starting and stopping it from shooting through your fingers is an essential aspect of control. The third critical point is controlling line while fishing. Advanced mending and motions of that nature are very useful but simply learning to retrieve and compensate for slack is a game changer. Moving water will always create slack and your cast is ineffective when you are not tight to the line. Control your slack and you will control the line, rod and fish. PRACTICING LINE MANAGEMENT AS A RAW BEGINNER Focusing on line management is the fastest way to elevate your game from beginner to intermediate. It will also make you more comfortable handling and casting a rod while opening the door to advanced techniques that are impossible without line management skills. When you practice casting in the yard, focus on your free hand. Follow this easy sequence until you are comfortable - Pickup cast, Lay down cast, transfer line from free-hand to retrieve position. Next, work on controlling distance with your free hand. Start with a short false cast and gradually shoot line on the forward cast by releasing a foot or two at a time through your line hand. You must compensate your timing with the rod hand as you release line through the free hand. Lastly, work on the retrieve position to control your slack. Lay down a cast and transfer the line from your free hand to your trigger finger on the rod hand. Retrieve by controlling the line below your finger and pulling it through the finger. Stripping line in this manner is how you remove slack and prepare for a fresh cast. In a real world scenario, you will cast, control the line and remove slack as needed, then recast while shooting out the line you just retrieved. You are tight to the end of your line the entire time.


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location, location. The old saying for real estate Lthinkocation, is similarly true when it comes to hunting. While I like to you can harvest quality animals in countless locations, Directions: Take I-90 to Exit 101 in Missoula. Drive 1/4 mile north to 5705 Grant Creek Road. accessible with RV parking. Open year round. For information, call (406) 523-4545 or 866-266-7750 or visit www.rmef.org.

6 | Hunting & Fishing News

there is certainly a place that you can’t: where they aren’t. And I’ve learned that the hard way. My hunting partner, Nick, and I were feeling eager and overly confident as the opening day of archery season grew closer and closer in Montana. The previous year I arrowed my first bull elk in this same spot we planned to hunt. But, this year, with the early season still being so warm, we decided to hang tree stands over water not far from where the remains of my bull lay. It seemed like a fail-proof plan at the time. Although I’m not sure why, as we never got one picture of an elk on the trail camera. Nevertheless, the opening morning we got to our tree early, with a sense of optimism known to come with the first day of the season. However, as the minutes turned to hours and the hours turned to days, we decided to try hiking around and calling instead. I was sure the elk had to be near as they had been the previous year. As I hiked the ridges, memories flooded my mind of the previous year. This place was my honey hole and I knew it wouldn’t let me down. It couldn’t. But, after a couple more trips, much to my dismay, I never arrowed a bull there that season. As a matter of fact, I never even heard or saw one. But, for some reason, I still didn’t want to abandon “my” spot. I think this is a common problem, especially among new hunters. Or perhaps, more for seasoned hunters who have hunted the same area for a decade, but don’t want to read the writing on the wall when they start seeing fewer animals. But I don’t blame them, nor do I blame myself. When you’ve clocked countless hours online looking for a spot, went through far too many tanks of gas getting there, and logged all those miserable heavy hikes, it’s hard to give up on a spot that you believe in. Or if you’re a new hunter or new to the area, you probably invested a lot of time and money into the hunt. Maybe all things point you to a specific area or it’s just the most picturesque spot; however, still, after a few days, you just aren’t seeing any animals. It can be extremely difficult to tear down camp and start all over again, especially if you’ve packed a long ways in.


It’s as though we get emotionally attached to the places we’ve become familiar with. Maybe we feel like we’re abandoning the memories of the spot. Perhaps it’s a blow to our ego. Or maybe we are just flat out stubborn. In contrast, it’s definitely important to give a spot a chance and to not give up on it prematurely. Certainly, a big buck can be hiding in a small patch of timber. Or a couple of late-season bulls could be isolated in a small pocket that you just need to find. So there is definitely a fine line between giving up too early and staying too late. But I think many suffer from the latter.

Let the animals tell you where they are

Have you ever found yourself saying something like, “This looks ‘elky’,” “If I was an elk (or deer, bear, antelope, etc.) I would be right here,” or “They have to be here.” Those are the words of someone who wants to tell the elk where they should be rather than let the elk tell you where they are. For example, I was driving down to New Mexico this fall with Randy Newberg and my co-worker, Marcus Hockett. We were leaving Montana right after the opening weekend of archery season. Both Marcus and I had hunted, but with very different results. I packed into an area that I’d hunted near before with family. Although the last time, we didn’t really get into any elk. Call me a good cousin or just a bad hunter, but I agreed to return. I hunted all weekend without laying eyes or ears on an elk or noticing much fresh sign. In the meantime, Marcus and his wife both shot bulls on opening day—on public land, I might add. So, putting my pride aside I started asking questions to see what I could be doing wrong. “So you’re hunting thick timber and they aren’t calling. What do you do?” I asked.

Randy quickly and bluntly replied, “Why are you hunting thick timber?” Struggling to respond to such a silly question, I mustered up, “Because that’s where they are in the rut. Thick timber.” I thought that since the elk I previously shot was in timber that all elk should be in thick timber. I don’t know why, but I just did. As the conversation continued, it became apparent that I was hunting where I thought the elk should be while Marcus was hunting where he knew elk were. Maybe there were elk a few days before where I was hunting, but they weren’t there anymore. Gleaning anything I could from two very successful elk hunters, I listened intently as Marcus continued, “I think the problem is a lot of people hunt where they think elk are. But even if you see sign, that could be from the previous day and now they are totally gone. You can bugle all you want in an area, but if elk aren’t there you simply aren’t going to kill one.” I’ve thought a lot about that statement since then and it’s caused me to change my strategy when hunting. It caused me to be honest and realistic with what I’m seeing when I hunt rather than hoping for a miracle in a spot where animals just aren’t living. I pay more attention to how much sign I see or don’t see where, previously, I would ignore the obvious, put my head down and just hunt harder, determined to make it work.

Keep your options open

One tactic to consider is to make sure you have plenty of options when you are going into a hunt. Depending on the length of your trip, you might want as many options as you have days. While you probably wouldn’t go through them all, it’s better to have too many than too few. (continued on page 27)

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Hunting & Fishing News | 7


3 Tips To Getting In Shape For Your Fall Hunting Adventures By Ryan McSparran Table Mountain Outfitters

www.tablemountainoutfitters.com Photo courtesy Ryan McSparran

f you ask most of our hunting guides for their advice Iboils on being prepared for your next Wyoming hunt, it usually down to two things. First, practice with your weapon.

And second, do your best to get in shape. In an upcoming article, we will talk more about shooting. But first, we want to take a look at why it’s so important to tackle some physical conditioning before your next Wyoming hunt – or any western hunt for that matter. There’s still plenty of time before next fall. Here’s why you shouldn’t wait to get started. WHY CONDITIONING MATTERS You hear it all the time. But why is getting in shape so important for a western, big game hunt? When you’re hunting this big, western country, you can have the best gear. You can be an excellent marksman. You can even have the best glass and locate more game. But if you can’t move quickly enough to get within range and get set up for a shot, the rest doesn’t matter. Where we hunt in Wyoming, whether it’s antelope, mule deer or elk, hunters are often required to traverse rugged terrain for long distances. Can you still do it if you’re out of shape? Sure, we can make it happen. But will the hunt be more fun if you’re in the best possible shape? Of course! When you’re feeling good, the entire experience is so much more enjoyable. Here are three tips to getting in shape for your fall hunting adventures. 1. START TRAINING EARLY Spring has only just arrived, and you have months to prepare for hunting season.

That should be a motivation to get started now, not a reason to procrastinate! Time is on your side now. But that won’t be the case later this summer. Rather than trying to rush your workouts and risk injury at the last minute, start now and give yourself time. Start getting your heart rate up for at least 20 minutes a day. Over the next several months, do your best to increase both the length and the intensity of your workouts. 2. MAKE A PLAN Set goals and make a plan. It’s easy to burn out or give up in the first few weeks. In order to stick with it, make sure you set goals that are realistic based on your schedule and lifestyle. If you need help getting started, visit your local gym. Sign up for a class to give you some accountability, or ask a trainer to help you develop a consistent workout plan. Ideally, you’ll want a plan that includes both strength training and cardio exercises. 3. GET OUTDOORS The gym is a great place to put your plan into action. But don’t forget to take your workouts outside whenever possible. Find a nearby trail with a steep incline, or use the local stadium stairs. Load up your hunting pack with a little weight, and start climbing! As we get closer to hunting season, do these workouts in your hunting boots. Add your binocular harness and even your hunting clothes. In addition to getting in shape, this will help you iron out any wrinkles in your gear before your big hunt. When hunting season arrives, take confidence in the fact that you’ll be able to put a stalk on a bedded buck, or move in quickly on a bugling bull elk. Rather than cursing your burning lungs and legs, you’ll be able to enjoy the excitement that’s out in front of you. Check out the Table Mountain Outfitter’s website at www.tablemountainoutfitters.com for more information on their antelope hunts, elk hunts and mule deer hunts in Wyoming. If you’d like to ask about availability or any specifics, please give them a call at 307-632-6352 or email https://www.tablemountainoutfitters.com/contact-us/

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MAY BEAR

HUNTING TIPS By H&F News Pro Staff

Photo Jocrebbin|dreamstime.com

M ay is prime time to hunt spring black bears in Montana. The weather has now warmed and grasses are sweet to the

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10 | Hunting & Fishing News

taste of roaming bears. Your best May tactic here in Montana is to follow the snow line down and hunt in mountain drainages where bright green vegetation is prevalent. To help you in your quest to fill a spring black bear tag, I offer these quick tips I’ve learned on my last few spring bear hunts. • LOCATE prime bear country. The mountains of the west and southwest parts of Montana hold plenty of black bears. • HIKE from gated-off logging roads up into timbered areas that these bears live in and that have cover all around them. Slowly walk these roads still hunting your way up. Many times, you will spot a bear feeding on rich, green grasses that surround both sides of the road. It will be a quick decision on your part to judge a bear and to make sure it’s big enough and not a sow with cubs, before the bear spots you, as black bears do not generally hang around too long once they have spotted or smelled you. • LOOK for the greenest of green grasses in the open patches that are surrounded by timber. Focus on north facing slopes where vegetation is bright green. It’s best to set-up high where you can look down on these areas and glass. • LEARN to judge sign as you hunt these roads and timber patches. Scat piles will generally let you know a big bear is in the area. Also, look for pad prints, as a five-inch pad will likely mean a six foot bear; definitely a keeper. • HUNT right to the end of legal shooting time. The biggest bears often roam right at the edge of darkness. Using the best optics you can afford will help you locate and judge the quality of a late-roaming bruin, and will help you to place your shot with accuracy. • THINK fast and keep your wits about you. A lot of your spotting of bears will be in a timbered surrounding, which means a quick decision might be required before you attempt a shot. Remember, no shot is better than a bad shot. Also, make sure that it is a black bear and not a grizzly you are targeting, as the grizzly bear range is expanding here in Montana. • CHOOSE the right gun. Standards such as the .308, .30-06, .280, 7mm mag or .300 mag all make excellent black bear guns. Bullets should range from 150 - 210 grains, with 165 or 180 grain bullets particularly good weights for most calibers. • QUALITY hunting gear is helpful. Layer up so you can hunt in the elements. Be ready for the often changing weather in high country, as thunder storms are quite normal in the late afternoons. Wait out the storm, as after all the commotion is over, it can be prime time for a great bear hunt. • NOW is the time to plan, organize, gear-up and get ready to hunt. Most spring bear hunting districts close at the end of May. Very few hunting districts are open (mainly in southwest Montana), in June. • FUN times can be had hunting in May. Setting up a camp with your hunting partners and enjoying our great outdoors in Montana - campfires, good food, and good times await those who venture out. Happy hunting.


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An early May Gates of the Mountains Chironomid Crusher Photo courtesy Trevor Johnson

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idges are a small aquatic insect that can be found in just about any freshwater environment on the planet. In this M article I am going to highlight the easiest midge pattern to fish and my favorite midge, the chironomidae (chironomid.) Hatched adult chironomids are that pesky, yet non biting insect we all know as the mosquito look-a like. They are often mistaken for mosquitoes and commonly called, “lake flies” in the north, and “chizzywinks” in the south. They are a small delicate creature that belongs to the family of nematoceran flies which means they are elongated flies with thin, segmented antennae. The name chironomidae stems from the ancient Greek word, kheironomos, meaning “a pantominist.” A pantominist is an actor in a play or movie that performs silently and entirely by eloquent body movements. I’m guessing this meaning comes from how Chironomids dance in the air in large swarms over still bodies of water. When you are in the midst of a chironomid hatch, they really are quite fascinating insects, and great pantominist at that. And these tasty morsels can make up to twenty-five percent of a trout’s diet in the open water months. And not just trout slurp them up! In Montana, from what we have found over the years, the month of May is the big chironomid kick off!! From small farm ponds on the eastern side of the state to Georgetown Lake in western Montana; May is the month. As fun as dry fly fishing can be, I’m going to focus on the underwater pupae stage. The chironomid has four stages of life: • 1.The egg • 2.The larva (bloodworm stage) • 3.The pupa • 4.The mature adult (winged terrestrial). Of these four stages, only three are fishable and in my opinion the pupa stage is KING as far as us, the anglers are concerned because the trout and other species target them ferociously. The pupa stage of the chironomid life cycle is quite short. We call this the “fast food” stage due to the sheer numbers in the water. Pupation occurs after the midge larvae go through a final molting phase and achieve their maximum size. They then spin cocoons and seal themselves inside often reaching maturity in one week. After reaching maturity, Chironomid pupas emerge from their mud tubes on the lake bottom in large numbers where the pupa begins their ascent to the surface. Their bodies maintain a vertical position as they slowly wiggle themselves to the surface with lots of frequent pauses in the water column. This makes them vulnerable and very attractive to trout and other species.


Some of the most fun filled fly fishing I’ve done has been with chironomid pupa fly patterns and it is a very basic and easy way to fly fish. It is a great beginner introduction, but also very exciting for advanced anglers. With multiple ways and fashions, my favorite way to fish chironomids in their pupa stage is below an indicator or float. The visual aspect of watching the indicator disappear or jerk sideways is very fun. And you all know me, I’m not proud, I love to catch fish in all ways, you can even rig a chironomid fly under a small bobber and use a spinning rod, I won’t judge! In whatever body of water you are targeting, chironomids hatch out of still water and we usually target this presentation in sub twelve feet. Depending on the depth, we place the fly anywhere from 16’’ to six or seven feet below the float. Trout and other species attack the tasty morsels as soon as possible as they emerge from the bottom so keeping your fly close to the bottom will generally land you more strikes. If you are not getting action, we like to move the flies up in one foot increments until we find where the fish are feeding. Hatches usually start mid-morning and taper off by late afternoon. On days when the water has a nice ripple on it from the breeze this alone will give your fly a lifelike presentation, but on calm days, about every ten seconds or so we like to give our rod a small jig up ever so slightly twitching the indicator to give the fly life. But keep in mind with the emergence pattern mentioned above, the presentation needs to be overall still or almost static. Some strikes will yield a full on indicator disappearing act and others will be so light you would think a trout farted on your fly. Our rule, when in doubt, set the hook, hooksets are 100% free of charge! When guiding and using this technique, I like to tell folks ahead of time, we call this “Bruce Lee” fishing; the split second you see that indicator move, SET! Trout eat millions of bugs a day; they know when they bite down on metal, trust me!

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The gear you will need to get started to fish this presentation is a fly rod suited for the body of water you’re fishing. A 5 wt would be adequate, although when we are fishing the north end of Chironomid pupa tied by the master himself Canyon Ferry or Upper Holter Kit Johnson Photo courtesy Trevor Johnson (Gates of the Mountains) we commonly use a 6 wt due to the nature of the large fish. You will need a floating line and some 4-5x leaders along with a handful of small indicators or floats. And then of course, THE MEAT, a few chironomid flies (size 14 is pretty standard around here.) Any fly shop would be able to outfit your needs to get you set up. And if using a spinning rod, I would recommend 6 lb test fluorocarbon line. A great way to cover more ground is to fish a weighted (bead head) on top, and then tie a 12-15” dropper line off the shank of the top hook to a non-bead head fly below. Chironomid pupas have prominent white gills, so a white bead head fly is a deadly start. Trout can easily eat over a thousand chironomid pupa a day so get out there! This is just a warm up and a tip of the iceberg summary of fishing a chironomid pupa fly, but take this as a starting point and swim with it! I hope to see you on the water swatting at “Chizzywinks” this May!! Trevor is the co-founder of Kit’s Tackle “Jiggin’ the Dream” along with his father, Kit. He is a true made in Montana fishing guide and owner of Kit’s Tackle Sportfishing, an insane outdoor enthusiast, a wild man in the woods and on the water and they even say he’s a quarter mountain goat. He’s a happy husband, a proud daddy to a beautiful little girl and boy, and two sweet dogs. When he’s not shoveling coal into the jig engine, you can find him on the water or leaving boot tracks in the wilds of Montana.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 13


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Photo courtesy Northland Fishing Tackle

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Tuesday through Sunday: Friday, Saturday, and Sunday are for the contests, bonus amounts, and tagged fish. Tuesday - Thursday bonuses, tagged fish Lottery prizes: $1,000 to $450 (thirty five drawings) All it takes is one ticket to win in the lottery drawing (Fridays through Sundays only) (1)-$10,000 & (3) $5,000 & (5) $1000 + over 6,000 $100 to $500 tagged lake trout Top ten angler prizes - $800 to $300 (Fri.-Sun.) The last day May 19th is a separate day with its own prizes. Captains $250-(4 prizes) Smallest lake trout $250-(2 prizes) Largest lake trout-$500 - (Fri.- Sun.) Top lady anglers $300, $200, $100 $100-totals used (Fri.-Sun.) Youth anglers - (17-13) 1st-$200, 2nd-$150, 3rd-$75, 4-5th-$50 (Fri.-Sun.) (12 & under) 1st-$100, 2nd-$75, 3rd-$50 (Fri.-Sun.) (8) Weekend Prizes-$100x5 (Fri.-Sun.) drawn and announced weekly Golden Angler Award (70 & older) $200 & $100 and (2) $50 (Fri.-Sun.) Bucket Competition - 3 days of single/team heaviest 4 fish 3/29 Friday, 4/20 Saturday, 5/5 Sunday Siberian Cooler ticket: 1 for every 10 entries (Fri. - Sun.) Last Day: $300, $200, $100 PLUS Heaviest Mack under 30” $200 and $100 BONUSES: ALL ANGLERS WHO ENTER 11 or more LAKE TROUT WIN Every day counts: Tues.-Sun. (51 total days) See www.mackdays.com for complete rules We ask that all boats from out of the Flathead area be inspected for AIS.

Fish Fry for participants & families May 19th at Blue Bay 3:00 Awards Ceremony at 4:00 Entry forms will not be mailed out.

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or pick up entries at local sporting good stores. You can also enter when you check in your fish at the check in stations during Mack Days.

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Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com nyone who spends any amount of time chasing summer walleyes no doubt logs a few hours bouncing blades. When fish are holding near bottom, as many summer eyes do, it’s a technique that excels at covering water while keeping your offering in the fish, and triggering strikes. It’s also a technique that’s very simple to learn, yet due to the variables involved, can be a difficult one to master. Speed, snell length, blade type, color, and size, are a few of the elements that experienced blade bouncers consider. One would correctly assume that the more variables that get introduced into the equation, the more complex it becomes. However, variables in the spinner equation are options, and options are GOOD. There are times when the fish will try and take that bouncer rod right out of your hand, regardless of the setup you’re pulling. But those times normally don’t last for long, and we’re left with some stubborn fish on the graph. This is why we need options, and often just changing one of them will trigger a run of bites.

A

When I’m graphing fish and not getting bit anymore, I’m a fan of significant change versus a subtle one, and for me this normally begins with a blade style change. Northland Tackle’s Butterfly Blade is a newer option that really embodies that strategy. It’s a significant departure from traditional blades, giving fish flash and feel that they’re not accustomed to-and it works. It’s similar to the propeller-style blade on a Whistler Jig, but with more pronounced curvature, more size and surface area, and as a result more displacement. The construction of the blade is polycarbonate, and it’s light weight and propeller design give it substantial lift. Not being a fan of super long snells, this is a huge plus. It allows me to get the spinner up to where the fish are without adding too much snell length, floating components, or decreasing speed. The blade itself comes in two sizes – #1 and #2, and in a dozen colors consisting of naturals, fluorescents, metallics, and holographics. A couple of the colors are referred to as “clear tip,” which I’m a big fan of. It’s essentially a clear blade with subtly-colored fluorescent tips, giving me confidence in pulling these “fluorescent” blades in even ultra-clear water. There is a substantial difference between the two sizes, which is great. When I change a blade size, I want it to be a noticeable difference. I like the smaller #1 for neutral fish, clearer water, and slower speeds, as this blade will spin at a crawl! The larger #2 provides more thump and flash at speed, and works well for aggressive fish, darker water, or when trying to trigger strikes from neutral fish. The two sizes really do fish like different blades. (continued on page 36)


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Photo courtesy Montana Angler

A GUIDE TO MONTANA

FISHING IN MAY By Montana Angler For a guided fly fishing trip call 406-522-9854 or www.montanaangler.com In Bozeman at: 435 E. Main Street

ay is perhaps the most dynamic time of year to fly fish in M Montana, yet it flies under the radar for most...anglers. It is a month of significant change; river levels, weather

patterns and insect hatches can change quickly from one day to the next. As water temperatures warm quickly the trout really start putting on their feed bags and the fishing can be downright explosive at times. Fishing pressure is relatively low during May, and coming off the long Montana winter, the fish haven’t seen many flies yet. May offers great hatches as well as some excellent nymph and streamer fishing. It is the favorite time of year for many local anglers and guides. Hatches One of the most exciting things about fishing in May is the variety and intensity of the hatches. While the Stonefly hatches of early summer and hopper fishing later on garner most of the fame, a strong case can be made that the best dry fly fishing of the year takes place during the spring. Strong mayfly and caddis hatches take place on most waters throughout our region. Blue Winged Olives The BWO’s, or Baetis, are the first major hatch of the year. By May, BWO’s will hatch most consistently on cloudy days. The hatch usually comes off mid-morning lasting until early afternoon, although this timeline can be pushed back on the coldest days. I have noticed that the trout, especially the Rainbows, tend to pod up during this hatch. You will often go through a stretch of water where nothing is happening only to round a bend and encounter a pool or eddy with dozens of fish rising enthusiastically. While you want to carry some specific Beatis patterns, you can often get away with a mayfly attractor like a Parachute Adams or Purple Haze. The spring Beatis are usually a bit larger than those in the fall, so #16 and #18 flies are your best choices. March Browns The March Brown is the first “big” bug to hatch each season, as these mayflies typically come in a #12 or #14. Despite the name, March Browns are an important hatch during the month of May. You won’t often find a blanket hatch of the March Browns, but they will be found in scattered pockets on many rivers. The March Browns are particularly interesting because the fish will often get keyed in on them. I have been in situations

16 | Hunting & Fishing News


where there were thousands of caddis flies floating down the river unmolested yet every single March Brown on the water was being devoured. Trout often take these large mayflies with abandon, creating large splashes with each rise. To match this hatch, I prefer a specific imitation rather than a general attractor. While a Parachute Adams or the like will probably do in a pinch, I like to stock up on some March Brown patterns from the local fly shop each spring. If there are March Browns on the water, I want one on the end of my line.

Mother’s Day Caddis This is the main event, folks.

The Mother’s Day Caddis is a legendary hatch, and my personal favorite of the entire year. There can be a literal blizzard of caddis in the air, appearing as huge oscillating waves over the water. While every year is different, the first week to ten days of May is usually the best timing for this hatch. It seems that when the water temperature creeps above 50 degrees is when things really start to happen. When the hatch is really cranking you can have dry fly fishing all day long, although afternoons and evenings tend to be the most consistent times. For flies, I like an olive or tan imitation in a #14. Sometimes I drop to a #16 if the water is exceptionally clear. Popular patterns include the Elk Hair Caddis and X-Caddis. I will often fish an emerger or pupae as a dropper behind my dry fly. May Fishing Destinations Recent rule changes in Montana have really opened up the options for fishing in May, especially early in the month. The state has eliminated the general fishing season, meaning that most rivers and streams are now open year-round. Previously, these waters opened to fishing the 3rd Saturday in May, meaning we now have many additional options for pre-runoff fishing that didn’t exist before. Upper Madison Fishing on the Upper Madison will greatly benefit from the new regulations. The entire river between Hebgen Lake and Ennis lake is now open year round. This opens up some fantastic fishing opportunities for both wade and float anglers. Wade anglers can now fish the famous “Slide” and “Channels” section year round. Both of these sections will fish very well. Float anglers will now have access to the stretch between Lyon’s Bridge and McAtee Bridge year round. This tends to be the most crowded part of the float section, so anglers will now have the opportunity to float this stretch in relative solitude during the spring. The Upper runs through a series of lakes, so runoff is delayed here and the river typically fishes well through the entire month of May. While the Upper will offer up some pockets of dry fly fishing, nymphing is the mainstay here and can be extremely productive, both in terms of numbers and size of fish. Rubber Legged Stonefly’s in a variety of colors and sizes are popular lead flies. Effective droppers include various Prince’s and Caddis Pupae in #10-14, and smaller Baetis nymphs in #14-18. The Madison is a very swift, rocky river so anglers will want to focus on the slower water created by boulders, islands, and shelves in the river. Lower Madison The Lower will continue to be one of the best and most popular options during May. Ennis Lake provides shelter from runoff and the Lower typically fishes

very well throughout the month. The main attraction on the Lower during this time will be the Mother’s Day Caddis hatch during the beginning of May. The Lower, along with the Yellowstone, is the premier destination for the hatch. The advantage of the Lower is that water clarity due to runoff is not an issue, which cannot be said for the ‘Stone. Swarms of caddis will be seen along the willows each afternoon and evening, and the dry fly bite can be fantastic. Cloudy, rainy days can see hatches of Blue Winged Olives. During mornings and non-hatch periods, the nymphing is typically excellent on the Lower. Popular patterns include San Juan Worms, Crayfish, Prince Nymphs, and Pheasant Tails. The Lower is a fairly shallow river, so even during the higher flows of May you can fish the entire river. The banks will hold fish, but mid river structure such as boulders, islands, and weed beds will produce as well. Both wading and floating are productive during May. Yellowstone River The Yellowstone can be a dynamite fishery during May, but it is dependent on water conditions. The ‘Stone is a freestone river, meaning there are no dams along its course. The Yellowstone typically enters spring runoff towards the middle of May, but every year is different. There is typically a period of good fishing early in the month, but it can be day by day. Warm weather will melt snow and muddy the river, while cool weather will clear the water. The river will typically yo-yo in an out of fishable shape throughout the spring before runoff hits for good. Like the Lower Madison, the Yellowstone is well known for the Mother’s Day Caddis hatch. If the water is clear, it can seem like every fish in the river is rising. The Yellowstone also has the best March Brown hatch in our area. This hatch is much more scattered and hard to predict than the caddis, but if you happen to catch it right the fishing will be lights out... During non-hatch periods the ‘Stone will see pretty good nymph fishing with Rubber Legged Stonefly’s and various Caddis attractors like Prince’s or Lightning Bug’s. The ‘Stone is a great streamer river, and May is a great time to swing for the fences. While most anglers associate the Fall with targeting large trout on streamers, many local fisherman and guides prefer the Spring. Spring Creeks May is a great month on our local Spring Creeks. They offer great fishing with the added bonus of being crystal clear and fishable every day of the month. While the famous creeks of Paradise Valley (Armstrong’s, Depuy’s, Nelson’s) are the main draws, there are many lesser known creeks in our area. Due to the recent regulation changes, these creeks are now available to us the entire month of May. Many of these smaller spring creeks become too weedy to fish effectively later in the summer, so we are now able to fish them under prime conditions. During May, the Spring Creeks will see good hatches of Blue Winged Olives and Midges on cloudy days. You can always find sporadic hatches and risers on these creeks, but the best dry fly fishing this time of year will be on cloudy days. Nymphing is always good on these creeks, especially early in the season when the trout have not been pressured too much. Smaller patterns such as Scuds, Sowbugs, and various midges are the staple here...

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Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell

Ten Easy Ways to Catch More Walleye this Spring By Jason Mitchell

www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com

hat late spring period is a coveted time for walleye anglers. More specifically, the post spawn time frame often creates T great windows of opportunity. While each fishery can have a

different personality and the nuances can vary, we have found some universal concepts that do seem to be applicable just about everywhere we fish. Below are some hard-earned insights from our team that have not only narrowed our focus but also kept us on track. We often joke with fishing that we can never say “never” or “always” as there is always an exception, but the follow list is something to consider. •Watch your temperature gauge. Early in the season when water temperatures are still on the cool side, finding the warmer or warmest water often means finding fish.

Particularly during stable warming trends after the fish have spawned, we often find more fish using shallow water and the best shallow water is often the warmest. You will find fish on other locations but the locations that have the warmest water almost always hold fish. •Trust and Incorporate Side Imaging. Because fish can often be shallow or high in the water column early in the year (especially when the sun comes out), you won’t often see fish below the boat on traditional sonar. Where you can see fish however is with side scan or side imaging. I personally use a Lowrance HDS Carbon that I really like for showing fish. If you are first learning how to interpret what is on the screen, move the boat at a faster speed than the speed you would typically fish so that you get a more defined picture. An optimum speed is often around three miles per hour. Fish will often look bright and look like a stretched-out piece of rice with a shadow next to the mark. The shape of the fish can get distorted based on your speed and how the fish or boat is moving. •Drink the Kool Aid. Colder water that hasn’t been mixed up by wind is often very clear. On many fisheries, the water will stain up as it begins to warm. You can often quickly identify the best areas by how the water looks. You are not necessarily looking for turbid or dirty water that has been churned up by wind but rather just a nice stain in the water that you can still see through. A good color will resemble Kool Aid. When the water really clears up, spend the time to look for that water with the stain. That stained water will often coincide with water temperature. •Be Patient in the Morning. What we see so often when the water temperatures really cool off at night is that it takes a little while for some spots to get going. We so often find that we struggle to scratch a few fish in the morning, but the bite keeps getting better as the water temperatures warm through the day. If I were to pick a prime-time day in and day out, early afternoon would be tops so don’t give up on good spots too early in the day.

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•When to Follow the Wind. Fishing the wind is so crucial on many fisheries. Wind will distort light penetration, hide your presence and stack warm water into a location. Heat combined with wind is often a sure bet combination that produces fish. •When Not to Follow the Wind. Knowing when to avoid the wind can be just as important. Excessive winds that start to muddy the water to a point where the water becomes extremely turbid can often be something to avoid. When wind creates enough of a current to suck up colder water from deeper or more expansive sections of a lake and then pushes that colder water onto the location you are fishing, simply avoid it. Wind is good until the water temperatures start to drop. Therefore, the calm or protected locations can often fish better in extreme weather. •Deep is an Option. Most of this list so far is geared towards active fish in shallow water but there are times when the shallows are devoid of life. If the season feels really behind schedule or if you are dealing with the after effects of massive fronts that crashed water temperatures, fast forward to channels and deeper structure. Most of the time, these locations can still be shoreline related but you will also see fish pile up onto deep offshore locations in the most extreme weather or conditions. Remember as well that both shallow and deep are relative. There are some fisheries where shallow is ten to fifteen feet while that would be considered deep on other bodies of water. Each fishery will be unique. •Slow and Slower. We catch fish with a lot of different presentations early in the season, but we often find that we need to slow down to catch fish. Not just the actual boat speed or lure speed but slowdown in how we fish where we catch more fish by being methodical. You can miss fish so easily by simply working too fast.

You must find the fish and cover water but force yourself to slow down when everything feels right.

We often find that we start to catch fish when we slow down and catch even more when we slow down even more. There are a few exceptions however. If you are fishing sand grass and low-lying weeds and you keep bogging down in the vegetation with a jig for example, pick up your speed and lighten your jig so you can glide and hang above it. •Cast More. There are still many areas where most of the walleye fishing is done by dragging jigs or rigs below or behind the boat. That no doubt works and should remain in your tool box but make a point to fan cast more this spring. You will be amazed how many days where you simply catch so many more fish. •Two Punch. We often catch fish early in the season with soft plastics and jerk baits. These artificial options can be worked a touch faster to cover more water. When you wear out your welcome with the artificial options, come back through with live bait. A jig with a soft plastic truly compliments a jig with a minnow. Incorporate both into your arsenal and get confident with both. This one, two, punch will elevate your game dramatically. Watch Jason Mitchell Outdoors on Fox Sports North every Sunday at 9:00 am. Find out more information at www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell

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Hunting & Fishing News | 19


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in their support of the outdoors, and groups such as the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation with their mission to conserve wildlife habitat and open space.

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The mission of the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation is to ensure the future of elk, other wildlife, their habitat and our hunting heritage. Opening and improving public access lies at the core of the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation’s conservation mission. Since its founding in 1984, RMEF conserved more than 7.4 million acres. That’s nearly one square mile of habitat every day since then.

Tenderfoot 9,300 Acres Opened to Access and Permanently Protected Lewis and Clark National Forest, Meagher County, Montana

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THREE THINGS TO HELP YOU

GET CLOSER TO GAME By Josh Kirchner Originally published at

www.goHUNT.com

ome of the fondest memories I have are from my dad S bringing me hunting as a young boy. I remember how cold it was, those first drinks of hot coffee I experienced,

and the hauntingly quiet time we spent together in the mountains. Something that became a regular occurrence— even when not hunting—was my dad bringing me out to try and get as close as we could to deer. We would do this by slowly “still hunting” through the woods. I feel that this “still hunting” has become a lost art these days and rarely hear of anyone doing it. There have been a few times when I felt as if I could almost reach out and touch the deer. Since those days, I have had a deep seeded love for getting close to game. That’s probably why I have become such a fan of the bow and arrow. Through the years, I have blown a lot of stalks on game with my bow and, in turn, have learned a lot of lessons along the way. Here are three that have helped me along that path.

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In my early years of bowhunting, I would spend a lot of time stalking recklessly. What I mean by that is I wouldn’t take the time to really think out a situation before throwing my name in the hat. I would slightly take note of the wind, but would soon forget it existed. Just the adrenaline from seeing game would send these concerns way out of my mind. I remember always thinking that they were going to get away and I needed to move quickly. Because of that, I spent a lot of time doing the “walk of shame” back to my glassing spot, asking myself, “Why did I do that? I know better!”

A DIFFERENT TUNE

Nowadays, I sing quite a bit different tune when I glass up an animal. I will plan out stalks bit by bit and even take photos of the area from a distance so I can refer back to it. Once you actually get over into the area where you were looking, things can be quite a bit different. Now, the wind is etched in my mind and I am constantly checking it along the way. There are times when I am able to take note of which way the grass is blowing on various hills around me. This will help me plan a route to my quarry. By compartmentalizing the stalk like this, it gives me direction and keeps me on point. Sure, there are times when you have to act on the fly, but if you have a plan, it will be easier to think with a clear head and act accordingly. Having a clear head on a stalk is never a bad thing and will ultimately get you closer.


ROCK THE SOCKS

A lot of folks shake their heads at me when I tell them this, which is entertaining to me because I feel like this isn’t a big secret nowadays. Some are just more daring than others, I guess, particularly those of us who are desert hunters walking around in the cactus-filled floors that we call home. Trust me, I know they hurt. I’ve experienced stepping on one more than a few times; however, if you truly want to close the distance on a wary buck—or any animal for that matter—dropping your boots is a great option. This will not only force you to lessen your footfall, but will force you to move slower. This is great because, if you are anything like me, sometimes you just get impatient and want to move. I suggest carrying a spare pair of thick wool socks in your pack for this exact purpose. Pull those socks all the way up and tuck your pant legs into them. This will keep the lower section of your pants from both rubbing on themselves and rubbing against brush. The less noise the better.

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There are also other options out there for quieting down your approach. I have heard of people literally gluing carpet to the bottom of a pair of boots, wearing sneakers or, even, the Vibram Five Finger runners.

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Using Rimrok Stalkers for extra silence and foot protection. Photo credit: Brady Miller

Aside from those ideas, there are other products available like Rimrok Stalkers that are made specifically for hunting to lesson the decibels during a stalk.

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LET IT PLAY OUT

Let me start off by saying that this is way easier said than done. It’s also something that is learned through repetition of being out in the field. Sometimes, the best thing to do in order to get close to game is not anything at all. Stalking to a certain area, getting comfortable and waiting could be the key to your success. (continued on page 36)

Hunting & Fishing News | 23


All photos courtesy Nicholas Oetken and Outdoor Empire

Should You Reload Ammo? Pros, Cons & When It Makes Sense By Nicholas Oetken www.outdoorempire.com nyone who has an interest in firearms or shooting no doubt A has at least considered the possibility of reloading their own ammo. There are many reasons why people give at least some consideration to the idea of reloading their own ammo, including but not limited to saving on costs, being more self-sufficient, and simply enjoying the process. If you’re reading this article, it’s probably because you are also thinking about reloading your own ammo but are not yet sure about whether you should or not. At the very least, you’re curious about the subject and specifically want to learn more about the pros and cons of reloading your own ammo. We’ll discuss the various pros and cons of ammo reloading in this article and discuss where and when it makes the most sense.

Is Reloading Your Own Ammo a Necessity?

First of all, let’s get this question out of the way: is reloading your own ammunition truly necessary if you are a gun owner? The short and simple answer is this: no, it is not. If anything, reloading ammo is merely a hobby. It is not at all a necessity, but it could save you some money in the long run.

What Are the Main Factors that You Need to Consider with Reloading Ammo?

The main factors that you will need to consider with reloading ammo include, but are by no means limited to, the following: • Cost savings • Cost of reloading equipment and supplies • Learning how to reload ammunition • The time needed to reload ammo • The caliber of ammunition you want or need to reload Ultimately, the cost of reloading ammo needs to be compared to the cost of buying new ammunition if you want to determine if it’s financially viable for you. And the cost of reloading ammunition is determined by primers, powder, bullets, and brass cases. Speaking of costs…

What Are the Main Costs Incurred with Reloading Ammo?

Many people want to get into reloading their own ammunition because they believe it will be cheaper than simply buying ammunition.

24 | Hunting & Fishing News

But this is only partially true because costs vary according to different factors. For example, cost depends on the caliber that you want to reload and how much you actually will be reloading. Reloading ammunition has a large up-front cost that you will have to contend with, and it can really only be profitable for you over the long run if you really commit to it. Otherwise, reloading ammunition will really just be something fun to do. Here are the main costs of reloading ammo that you will incur up front: • Complete Reloading Kit: $300 • Reloading Press: $500 to $1,000 • Primers x100: $35 • Bullets x1000: $100 • Brass Casings: $30 to $50 • Powder: $25 1 – Saving Money (Over The Long Term) The first advantage to reloading ammunition, and one of the biggest reasons why people get into it, is to save money. But again, this is something that can only happen over the long term, because you are going to incur a lot of up-front costs in the short term. That being said, the only ammunition right now that is actually dirt cheap to buy is .22 LR. Other kinds of ammunition, such as 9 mm, .357 Magnum, .45 ACP, .223 Remington, or .308 Winchester, require a fair investment to buy. How much money can you expect to save over the long term with reloading? While it depends on the person and also on the caliber and circumstances, let’s consider it this way: right now, the typical box of 50 .357 Magnum rounds would cost you around $30. In contrast to this, reloading 50 .357 Magnum rounds would likely cost you less than 10 bucks. That’s a significant cost savings margin right there, and it would be even greater if you’re going to be doing a lot of shooting (such as on a daily basis).

2 – You Get Greater Control Over Bullet Quality And Ballistics

Another big reason why people get into reloading ammunition is because they have direct control over the ballistics and quality of their ammunition, as they can load them to their exact specifications. This won’t matter that much to people who just like to casually shoot on the range, but those who want to do more precise shooting over long ranges or who care very much about their ammunition ballistics will definitely want to either: 1. Use a brand and type of ammunition that they trust 2. Reload their own ammunition To put things simply, if you want ammunition that you can fire directly to your exact specifications, reloading your ammo could very well be the way to go.

3 – It’s A Fun Process

Last but not least, reloading is honestly a fun process, as you get to play around and experiment with gunpowder, bullets, shell casings, and fancy equipment. Honestly, this is probably the real reason why people reload: they simply enjoy it! And to be honest, if you try reloading and find that you don’t enjoy the process at all, you’re probably not going to do it. But if you do enjoy the process of reloading, then it can be something fun for you to do as a neat side hobby. (continued on page 38)


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Honorable Mention Walleye Baits By Mark Romanack Fishing 411 www.fishing411.net

hen it comes to crankbaits suitable for catching walleye, W most of the love goes to a handful of noteworthy baits. The fact that these baits work is testament enough

to explain why anglers rely on them day in and day out to catch walleye. My short list of “must have” walleye crankbaits includes the iconic Reef Runner 800 series, Bandit 5/8 Walleye, Rapala Deep Husky Jerk 12, Smithwick Perfect 10 and the Rapala Husky Jerk 14. Each one of these lures have taken countless walleye for the Fishing 411 crew and a host of other avid walleye trollers... For as good as these baits are most days, there are some days when a little different wiggle and look is in order. The following is a list of crankbaits that on occasion have proven their worth or baits that appear to be the next big thing in walleye trolling. STORM DEEP JR. THUNDERSTICK The Deep Jr., ThunderStick was produced by Storm Lures prior to the company selling out to Rapala. Those original Deep Jr’s. are getting a little tough to come by these days, but for those who are fortunate enough to own a few, this is a bait that frequently out produces the best of the best. At Fishing 411 we have found these baits to excel when fished in late spring through summer time frame. Something about the size and wobble of these baits is lights out to walleye.

26 | Hunting & Fishing News

BRAD’S LIPSTIX Very similar to the Deep Jr., the LipStix has that ideal size and action for targeting walleye in water temperatures ranging from about 50 degrees to 75 degrees. The LipStix is readily available and also comes painted in a ton of excellent and hard to find colors for trolling up ...walleye. YAKIMA MAG LIP 3.5 Almost everyone who owns a few Mag Lip 3.5 baits has nothing but good things to say about these wide wobbling plugs. Designed with trout, salmon and steelhead in mind, the Mag Lip is also deadly on walleye when fished in the right conditions. Last May Jake and I put the smack down on Lake Erie walleye using the Mag Lip 3.5 in some of the more gaudy colors such as Mad Man, Glitter Watermelon, Metallic Perch and Mad Clown. In the late spring when Lake Erie and Saginaw Bay start to warm up, plankton blooms turn the water a beautiful shad of green. Water stained green with plankton is literally the perfect environment for walleye who are always on the hunt for food. High action cranks like the Mag Lip create a lot of water displacement and they feature loud rattles that help walleye zero in on these baits. Our experience fishing the Mag Lip for walleye suggests that faster trolling speeds in the 2.0 to 2.5 range tend to produce best. YO-ZURI FRESHWATER CRYSTAL MINNOW Anyone who has held a Yo-Zuri bait in their hands will attest that these Japanese made lures are second to none in quality. The Crystal Minnow has the right shape, action and color selections to target walleye effectively, but until recently these baits were only available with heavy duty saltwater hardware. The Freshwater Crystal Minnow series features those same great profiles, actions and colors, but with hooks far more suitable for targeting walleye. The Freshwater Crystal Minnow is ideal for fishing in combination with Snap Weights or these baits can be used flat line trolling when targeting walleye after dark. PHANTOM BOOGEY The Phantom Boogey is new and comes in 7, 9, 11 and 13 size. All of these new baits have been tested by Precision Trolling Data and the Dive Curves will soon be added to the Android and iPhone apps. These lures are too new to have a fish catching reputation, but based on the action these lures deliver and the profile and color options, it’s hard to image this new series of crankbaits not catching on. LIVINGSTON FM111 Similar to the Berkley Flicker Minnow, the new Livingston Lures FM111 is looking at a bright future as a walleye trolling bait. Our team first spotted these lures at...ICAST... We had them in the water by fall doing Precision Trolling Data testing and quickly came to the conclusion these baits will find favor with walleye anglers. WALLEYE NATION CREATIONS SHAKY SHAD With a name like Walleye Nation Creations it’s hard not to take a second look at the new Shaky Shad series. Available in both a No. 5 and a No. 7 size, the Shaky Shad has a tight action, premium wide-bend short shank treble hooks and comes in a host of natural finishes and...color patterns. WRAPPING IT UP All of these crankbaits are poised to make a splash on the walleye trolling scene. Some of these baits are new and others have been around for a while, but none of them have become household names as of yet. Speaking as a troller who is addicted to crankbaits, these are some of the baits I think have what it takes to survive the test of time.


WHEN TO GIVE UP

ON A HUNTING SPOT (continued from page 7)

It’s important to at least have more than one, especially if you have never hunted the area before.

I’m sure there are plenty of hunters who have their go-to spot and it works for them year after year. Yet, for the majority of the population, that probably isn’t the case. Even if it is, there are so many variables out of your control when it comes to public land hunting that can easily thwart your plans. Maybe somebody else discovered your spot and got there first this year. Maybe a new road or trail has been opened and the deer or elk responded to the pressure and moved out of the area. You just can’t really plan for people. However, if one spot does get thrown off by other hunters, then you’ll be happy you have a backup or two to try.

Stay mobile

A good way to combat this problem of putting all your eggs in one basket is to try and keep your camp mobile. When I think of the most picturesque elk hunting scene, it usually involves a wall tent with a wood stove in a beautiful meadow so nice that it’s flirting the line with glamping. While I’m sure that would be an enjoyable, comfortable and, potentially, successful hunt, the downside is that it lacks mobility. Maybe not if the tent is pitched along a road, but if it’s packed in deep and took a long time to set up just right, nobody is going to want to tear it down to try a new spot. If you want to be successful in hunting public land, it’s important to work a system that allows you to be mobile. That doesn’t necessarily mean you need to truck camp, of course, but think about having a lightweight system

Photo credit: Taylor Wilde

that allows you to move easily in the backcountry. Gear is getting lighter and lighter so keeping camp on your back every day might not be a bad idea. While I don’t see myself becoming hardcore enough to sleep in a bivy as Trail Kreitzer does, I do see the value in being able to roam free with your camp on your back. If you don’t want to carry your camp every day, at least have a sleep and camp system that you are willing to tear down to move to a new area. The quicker and easier it is, the more ground you will cover, which should lead to more success in the field. Reading the sign, staying mobile and keeping your options open will give you a better chance of being successful in your hunt. While you shouldn’t rule out an area too quickly, you also shouldn’t do the opposite. The first step in filling your tag is finding an animal to fill it with and that means hunting where they are.

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THE DREAM HUNT: ALL SHEEP IN ALASKA D By Ryan McSparran Lazy J Bar O Outfitters www.lazyjbaro.com

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e’ve talked to many hunters over the years that W have Dall sheep at the top of their bucket list. And it’s easy to see why. Even after more than 25 years, hunting Dall sheep in Alaska has lost none of its allure on us. We’re probably biased, but we think it’s easily one of North America’s greatest hunting experiences. We hunt Dall sheep in the Alaska Range, where abundant sheep and good rams are the norm. But what sets us apart is our unique approach to hunting Alaska. Unlike some Alaska outfitters who only use horses occasionally or as a means to an end, we are true horse people. We own our own stock and we’re actually breeders – meaning we have some of the finest horses and mules in the business. We approach horseback hunting in a way that’s totally unique in Alaska. While hunting sheep is a physically challenging endeavor no matter which way you slice it, we use horsepower – and lots of it. We still stalk rams on foot and hunting these impressive animals requires mental and physical toughness. But our ability to access remote areas on horseback and set up spike camps in hard-to-reach drainages gives us a distinct advantage. In the end, there’s nothing like shouldering your rifle, and making that grueling climb, or crawling into position with that trophy ram of a lifetime within range. With the spectacular Alaska Range as your backdrop and after making a spike camp your home, you’ll understand immediately why people say that sheep hunting is an addiction. We caught the bug, and we may never be cured. For pricing and general information on hunting Dall sheep in Alaska with Lazy J Bar O Outfitters, you can visit their Dall Sheep Page here: https://www.lazyjbaro.com/dall-sheep-hunts. If you would like to hear about availability or specifics on the hunt, feel free to call Lazy J Bar O Oufitters at 406-932-5687 or email: https://www.lazyjbaro.com/contact-us Don’t wait too long. Sheep country is calling!

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2.The Motion Stake

Watch the Motion Stake video here:

https://www.montanadecoy.com/news/4-outside-the-box-turkey-decoy-setups

Photo Courtesy Montana Decoy

4 OUTSIDE THE BOX TURKEY DECOY SETUPS

By CJ Davis Montana Decoy www.montanadecoy.com opefully you’ve had a chance to scout for turkeys. Or perhaps the season is underway and you’ve already noticed skittish birds due to hunting pressure. While just about any two-year-old gobbler is coming in to the slightest semblance of a hen call, the older birds will become even more leery as the season progresses. This is where an outside-the-box decoy setup might be your best bet for punching a tag. Here are our four favorite.

H

1. Cover All the Angles

Photo Courtesy Montana Decoy

When a gobbler flies off the roost, there is a narrow window of time to ensure he sees your decoys. During the mating season, he’s going to fly down to join the hens he sees before he goes looking for one he hears. That’s why Tennessee hunter Drew Gilkerson makes sure that if a tom even glances his way, it is going to see a hen. “I position them where a tom can easily see any of the MISS PURR-FECT hen decoys no matter the direction he approaches from,” said Gilkerson. “I space the decoys in a triangular manner with enough room between them to give a tom the chance to strut around them. Last season, this setup worked exactly as planned and a tom committed to the trio of decoys shortly after fly down.” According to Gilkerson, the longbeard closed the distance from 100 yards to 10 in just a few minutes before offering an easy shot. “It turned out to be one of the quickest, best turkey hunts ever,” he said. His setup worked so well because the divergent angles allowed for maximum visibility.

30 | Hunting & Fishing News

Years ago, before we created the Motion Stake, we’d simply attach a string and zip tie to the decoy and let it dangle from a tree branch. This was effective at times, but only when a hunter had a clear shot to a low-hanging limb from a girthy tree trunk. Unfortunately a breaking branch most often causes a tom to take flight, and that is heartbreaking. The Motion Stake is much like a modern-day cane fishing pole. It extends like a telescope from a few inches to several feet. Using the attached metal stirrup, easily drive it into the ground using your foot. A clip attached to the end of some heavy duty fishing line is where you’ll attach the decoy to let it hang and move freely.

3. A Lone Hen for the Late Season

As the season wears on, turkeys will further separate themselves from the rest of the flock. Gobblers are worn down by the breeding season and feeling the hunting pressure, so they’re not as responsive to calls. Nor do they intend on fighting a group of jakes for one more romance with a hen. They’re relying on their eyesight and that weird turkey intuition to decide on any more “moves” they may make. As for hens, the majority have (hopefully) been bred. And for those that haven’t, they may still be cruising around looking for a gobbler. The optimal time to see this lone hen is during the late-morning hours when the sun is shining bright. If she’s just puttering about with no clear direction, there’s a good chance a gobbler is strutting or lurking nearby. This teaches us two things: 1) Deep into the season, hunt late mornings, especially the sunny ones; and 2) reduce your setup to one decoy. Place your decoy in a looking or feeding pose. Never use the breeding position this late in a season because a gobbler will either think she’s nesting or that another tom is nearby. Treat your calling much like your decoy setup by keeping it simple. Gobblers will slip in silently so maintain a watchful eye on your surroundings.

4. Get Out in the Open (BUT ONLY ON PRIVATE LAND)

Another observation many of us have made during latter-season turkey hunts is that the birds tend to congregate in large fields where they are extremely hard to reach. Though it may seem like they just appear there, rising from some unseen hole in the ground, they will actually fly directly from the roost to such a spot, leaving you with little chance of cutting one off. Use this to your advantage in the last 10-12 days of the season. Once the ground has soaked up enough moisture and sunshine, the grass will begin growing at a rapid rate. Outfit yourself with a ghillie suit, set out two to three hen decoys, and make the middle of that field your last-resort ambush spot. NOTE: Only do this on private land and make sure that everyone is absolutely aware of your location and intentions. Lay in the prone position so you don’t get overly excited and accidentally shoot your foot off. You may think, “Oh, but it’s so hard to shoot a shotgun prone.” True. So rise up on your knees and be prepared to quickly fire. You’ll have a few seconds as turkeys are slow to take flight.


Photo courtesy Ryan McSparran

Portable Power, Staying Charged in the Backcountry By Zach Lazzari Kawdy Outfitters www.kawdyoutfitters.com

P

ortable power systems have come a long ways in the past couple of years and that is great news for hunters and guides who travel to remote hunting destinations. Traditionally, you had to pack a great big camera with multiple batteries to get any quality video or photo footage on trips. A fuel powered generator, fuel canisters and heavy batteries were also needed to power a remote camp. With modern battery and solar technology, you can power an entire camp with lights, electronics and tools with a fraction of the weight. You can also recharge on the sun with portable, easy to use solar panels. These out of the box systems are fantastic for hunters, guides and outfitters alike. Solar Lanterns Numerous solar powered lantern options are available and at some pretty low price points. The MPOWERD lantern designs are especially attractive because they are inflatable. When deflated, they pack down into a very small, portable unit that weigh next to nothing. Blow them up, place in the sun while you’re out hunting, and they will light up your camp all night. In terms of ease and efficiency, this is pretty hard to beat. While plenty of battery and gas powered lanterns are available, these space saving solar designs are impressive and easy to use. Solar Panel Chargers and Small Batteries Several companies offer portable solar panels to charge your electronics directly. GoalZero was one of the first players in this market and their products continue to really perform. Portable solar panels that fold up and easily fit in a backpack can keep you charged in the field with a simple USB connection. There are also plenty of small battery packs that charge off a USB and can easily recharge your phone battery 1-3 times without weighing down a pack. Combine a small battery and portable solar panel and you can stay charged on top of any mountain. Power Generators If you need to recharge cameras, power tools and any battery powered equipment, full on battery generators with portable solar options are available. Again, GoalZero is a leading brand but more options are emerging in this relatively new market. You can find lead acid battery systems with built-in inverters and ports for any number of electronics or you can go Lithium and have an extremely durable battery that can discharge completely without consequence. The Lithium models are ideal but also priced higher. I have a small GoalZero Sherpa 100 with a Nomad 20 solar panel and it recharges quickly off solar and my vehicle while driving. The small unit fits in my travel bag and easily recharges my laptop 2-3 times. The bigger units could power a refrigerator and handle some relatively large power draws at long-term campsites. For information on hunting trips in northern British Columbia with Kawdy Outfitters call 1-604-629-9582 (July 1-Oct 15) and 1-250-306-8624 (Oct 15-July 1) or email hunting@kawdyoutfitters.com

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easy to set-up, the Pop-Up Pit is the best way to host a fire, anywhere, anytime and on any surface. The Pop-Up Pit sets up in just 60 seconds and cools down in 90 seconds so you can pack it away after your fire. Measuring just 24” x 24” x 15” when fully opened it’s large enough to have the whole family enjoy the campfire all while weighing less than 8lbs. The Pop-Up Fire Pit was designed to hold full sized logs and up to 125lbs so you can load up enough wood to keep the whole camp warm. Add these optional accessories for even more diversity. Heat Shield - Allows for fires on heat-sensitive surfaces such as grass and wood decks. Grill Grate - Portable non-stick, no-flareup grilling grates that are Dutch Oven ready.

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Hunting & Fishing News | 33


Photo courtesy Edgar Castillo and Project Upland

HOW ROOSTERS DODGE THE BULLET

TACTICS FOR VETERAN PHEASANT

By Edgar Castillo Project Upland www.projectupland.com Run, Hide, or Fly: the Veteran Rooster of Avoiding Bird Hunters

ing-necked pheasants are by their very nature shifty, sly, R and some would say, diabolical. Aside from their bizarre field antics, pheasants are really not the fastest game bird in the uplands, nor are they the most difficult to hit with a string of pellets. But they are masters of avoiding being shot – just ask the multitude of hunters of how devious ring-necked pheasant roosters can be. From the day they are born, pheasants realize they are food and at the top of the menu for coyotes, foxes, hawks, and during the autumn and winter months, for those orange-clad bipedal beings with their canine partners.

Pheasants must rely on three primary survival strategies. In order to survive until the next morning, they MUST run, hide, or fly. The first two options are preferred and the third, only as a last resort. Understanding how roosters dodge the bullet will help hunters in dealing with these challenging birds. There are two types of pheasants. There are the young and slightly dim-witted opening day birds that are the first to see the inside of a bird vest – and oven. Then there is the well-educated veteran rooster who literally runs circles around man and beast. Let it be known: a veteran is a pheasant that has had 24 hours of experience in avoiding hunters. From there, the roosters only continue to mature in avoidance tactics. It’s almost as if they all attend the military’s elite Survival, Evasion, Resistance, and Escape (SERE) schools! The most common pheasant hunting fantasy story in hunting literature and real life is the cockbird that follows the rules of engagement when being hunted and pursued. The pheasant holds tight for a pointer or flushing breed and explodes noisily with a series of cackles. The colorful bird climbs nearly vertical before leveling out to a horizontal flight pattern. This by-the-book scenario, theoretically, is ideal for the hunter to make lethal contact with the colorful clown prince of the prairie. This scenario, however, has problems ingrained with it. These “book pheasants” are becoming rarer as the season progresses. Pheasants are learning to avoid on-the-go. They are evolving each time bands of bird hunters step out onto the fields. Their defense mechanisms are being tweaked as they are being hunted, thwarting the most experienced of hunters and dogs. Pheasants learn to flush out of range at the hint of trouble, refusing to hold in place. Then again, some long-tail roosters hold sooo tight,

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34 | Hunting & Fishing News


they practically have to be launched Many hunters have such a difficult time into the air with a series of kicks. Others instituting even a little bit of noise discipline are downright cowardly, using harems throughout the hunt. The mere sound of of female pheasants to lure dogs and closing truck doors will cause pheasants hunters away. Some hens tend to even to flush prematurely, head for those draw strings of pellets by surprised and escape routes, and run for their lives. over-anxious hunters not realizing it is It should be obvious for hunters that it is the drab-colored brown and tan hen mandatory they be quiet. It is understandable as opposed to the raucous and colorful that not all noise can be eliminated, ring-necked pheasant. While this is but we’re talking about unnecessary noise. happening, the sneaky and gutless Hunters need to use common sense rooster is duckin’ and runnin’ trying to put when working a field and controlling dogs. as much distance as possible Communication is important and vital for between success when him and his pheasant pursuers. hunting. Pheasant As each hunting is hunting typically a season group activity progresses, and therefore surviving communication males between become hunters is a fewer in must in order number to convey but vastly plans and smarter, tactics. individually. That’s Once in the especially field, hunters true of birds Photo courtesy Edgar Castillo and Project Upland cannot go in on heavily blazing. hunted public land. When you consider Slow down! Moving in fast creates noise that most pheasants spend much of and hunters may pass tight-holding their lives in a half-mile sized area, it birds or drive running birds out of shotgun doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure range. These errors will cost birds in the out what the sounds of approaching bag, but will also give those super-wary pickup trucks, chattering hunters and birds the chance to live another day. noisy canines mean. Think about it. Walk and work the field slowly, pausing At popular or well-known public hunting frequently. Following this stop-and-go areas, most hunters park in the same pattern, hunters can generally unnerve spots, make the same noises, and use roosters into flushing that are keen to the same ingress and egress routes day holding tight until the threat passes. after day, season after season. It’s small It’s been established that walking slowly wonder the birds don’t win every match. is crucial, but working a field thoroughly also plays a part. Hunters must scour Three Rules for Hunting the land and every bit of cover that may Veteran Roosters hold birds. Examples include islands Educated long-tail roosters require of weeds, hedgerows, thickets, brush, a different approach and attitude than overgrown crops and roadside ditches those which are often bagged by as well as thick cover and cattails along over-confident opening day hunters. banks and shorelines of ponds, streams, Veteran ring-necks have been able to or marshes. These sanctuaries provide avoid both hunter and dog since the first pheasants the feeling of security. crack of a shotgun on that first morning Knowing where to look for birds of the season. In order to combat the is the last vital piece of the puzzle. ring-necked rooster’s uncanny ability The best pheasant hunting is usually in to run, hide, and fly, hunters need to areas where feed and cover are plentiful. adopt and employ countermeasures in Daily movement patterns are important order to be successful in the field. to know and understand. Early in the Move in silence. Walk slowly. Know day, birds are in or near roosting cover. where to hunt. Easier said than done. By mid-morning they move to feed, Bird hunters need to adopt these two preferably on such crops as soybeans, relatively simple, yet often ignored tips: milo and corn. Pheasants move into refrain from making noise and rushing nearby loafing cover in the early afternoon, in. It’s the time to buckle down or the and return to roosting sites at the disappointment of walking out of the field approach of sunset. with empty bird vests will be the norm. Know your birds. Understand their survival As the saying goes, “Silence is Golden.” strategies. Practice hunting discipline. This can’t be repeated often enough. And enjoy the hunt!

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Hunting & Fishing News | 35


Spinner Walleyes Throw The Change-Up (continued from page 14)

Like many, when it comes to summer walleyes I often lean heavily on nightcrawlers, and Butterfly Blades come in two pre-tied rigs that cater to this. The Butterfly Blade Harness, and the Butterfly Blade Super Death®. The Butterfly Blade Harness is pretty much your go-to crawler harness, but with the new blade. It’s my favorite for pulling the Impulse Nightcrawler, but also excels with the real thing. The Butterfly Blade Super Death® uses a very aggressively-canted hook, similar to Northland’s Crawler Hauler Hook, but with even more twist. This is my favorite rig when using just a portion of crawler, and hooks up fish remarkably well with it’s elongated hook. It’s another great option to show pressured or reluctant fish. Northland also offers the Butterfly Blade Rig, a traditional single hook rig for leeches, minnows, or portioned crawlers. For those of us that like to tie are own rigs, Butterfly Blades are also available as standalone offering in all sizes and colors, in 3/card and 25/bag quantity. I’ve gotten enough confidence in these blades in such a short time, that I often start with them, rather than switch to them. Either way, they’re a powerful option to add to your spinner arsenal. So next time you’re confronted with a graph full of uncooperative eyes, change it up!

Elk Shepherd’s Pie: Dutch Oven Style! By Lindsey Bartosh a 12 Gauge Girl www.huntingandcooking.com Ingredients: 1 pound ground elk 2-3 stalks celery, diced 2 carrots, diced 1 large onion, diced 1/4 cup tomato paste 1 cup red wine Photo courtesy Lindsey Bartosh 2 cups beef stock 2 pounds potatoes 1/4 cup butter 1/2 cup milk or cream 1 can corn 1 cup shredded cheese of choice Instructions: Start coals for dutch oven. In large pot add potatoes, cut into quarters, and boil. In dutch oven over medium-high heat, cook ground elk. Add diced celery, onion, and carrots, cook until soft. Add tomato paste and stir. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in red wine and reduce by half, about five minutes. Add beef stock and continue to reduce, about ten minutes. When potatoes are soft, about 15 minutes, mash and add butter and milk. Season with salt and pepper. Once stock has reduced, add the can of corn. Spread mashed potatoes over elk mixture, covering completely. Sprinkle on cheese. Cook in dutch oven over 12-14 coals on bottom and 15-20 coals on top for 10 minutes, until cheese has melted. Enjoy!

36 | Hunting & Fishing News

THREE THINGS TO HELP YOU GET CLOSER TO GAME

(continued from page 23) Letting game come to you is way easier than you going to them. A lot more risk is involved with that. Some years back, I was on an archery Coues deer hunt in Arizona. First thing in the morning, we glassed up a solid Coues buck that was rutting does on a hill across the way. Sooner than later, I grabbed my stuff and headed in that direction. I knew that if I got to a certain point, then I would be able to wait for the deer to come to me. I just had to hope it was the right deer. To make a long story short, it was the wrong deer, but that is beside the point. I ended up having Coues does walk by me at a mere 20 yards right away. Soon after, I had a doe only 8’ in front of me! And this was all because I stayed put. Unfortunately, the big buck rutted a separate group of does that were off another way. But that’s why this is called hunting, though, right?

ENDNOTE

If you have bowhunted for any extended amount of time, you are likely familiar with the thrill of getting close to an animal. The act of doing so is often described as a chess match. Each and every move we make can have an effect on our approach—whether that is good or bad. This is a game that I feel I will never master, which makes perfect sense. As a bowhunter, I enjoy being humbled by the animals I pursue. It keeps me in check. It lets me know that this whole thing is bigger than me. The craving for that little glimpse of success seems to never fade. If you are just starting out down this path, embrace this and eat every bit of that humble pie that will be presented to you. The path of a bowhunter is an intoxicating one and the more close encounters you have, the more intoxicating it gets.



Should You Reload Ammo? Pros, Cons & When It Makes Sense (continued from page 24)

What Are the Three Biggest Disadvantages to Reloading Ammunition?

Reloading ammunition may have a lot of advantages, but it also has a lot of disadvantages as well. 1 – It’s Not Cheaper Over The Short Term As we covered previously in this article, you can expect to pay up-front costs of at least $1,000 or so in order to get started reloading ammunition. You may even need to spend more than that over the long term, but admittedly those costs will be offset by money saved by not buying your own ammunition. Reloading ammo only saves you money if you do it over the long term. If you get into ammo reloading for the short term only to find out that you don’t particularly enjoy the process, you’re going to lose money up front. 2 – It Takes Time (And Patience) Here is something else that you need to know about reloading: it is a very time-consuming process and requires a lot of patience and diligence, not to mention concentration. You will need to set aside time each week to dedicate to the process of reloading your own ammunition.

3 – It’s Inherently Risky Last but not least, reloading is inherently risky for the simple reason that you’re dealing with gunpowder. You need to ensure that you take all of the proper precautions and are fully knowledgeable on the subject before proceeding. Seeking hands-on experience with someone who reloads regularly would be wise.

Conclusion

In conclusion, reloading will be a good option for you if you enjoy the process and really want to save money over the long term. If the time investment isn’t worth the monetary savings, and if you don’t enjoy the process of reloading, then reloading your own ammunition may not be the best option for you. The best advice that can be given to you is this: if you aren’t sure if reloading is right for you but want to try it, try to find someone who reloads regularly (preferably a close friend or family member) and ask them to provide you with some training and hands-on experience. If you find that you enjoy the process, then investing in your own reloading equipment should make a lot of sense.

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