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THE EXCITEMENT OF TURKEY HUNTING IN THE WEST By Jake Horton Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
As a rule of thumb, getting in close to turkey in the morning means you have to arrive well before the sun touches the sky, quietly get close and always stay on the uphill side of a bird or where a bird has been seen traveling the day before. Calling birds downhill is possible, but they prefer to go uphill because they use their long neck to check for danger before exposing their bodies to predators. If you are positioned within a couple hundred yards of the roosting tree you are in good shape; however, depending on how close you are, you will need to change your tactics.
Play their game
All photo credits: Brady Miller
othing gets your blood pumping quite like a turkey gobbling N from the roost at first light. It doesn’t matter if it’s an Eastern, Merriam, Rio, or anything in between; when you
call and he gobbles, it gets into your blood. Growing up in the East had me chasing birds from farm to farm day after day in the spring and with good success. After moving out West, my original concentration was on big game animals like elk, deer, moose, and more, but I never could get chasing turkeys out of my blood or off my mind. Chasing turkeys out West has its challenges since there are vast tracts of public land and turkeys only inhabit certain pockets of it. In the end, it doesn’t matter where you are: there are some basic principles to chasing turkeys that work anywhere. To be successful at turkey hunting from the Atlantic to the Pacific, you need to find the birds, position yourself correctly and play their game.
Finding the birds
By far, the most challenging part of turkey hunting on public land in any western state is finding the birds. To do this, I usually take a three-step approach and have had some good success. The first thing I do is find some population maps, overlays or KMZ type files of where the biologists and game commission say there are turkey populations. After I have a map, I call the local forest service station, biologists, fish and game department or, even, a local sporting good store to get more information. In general, people are not as protective of their turkey hunting areas like they are about elk or deer honey holes. Normally, by asking where a lot of people hunt or if they know where I can find turkeys, I will eventually get some good intel. Then comes the boots-on-the-ground scouting. If at all possible, I try to be out there a few days before the season starts at first light. When I am out there, I silently listen for early morning gobbles so I can get the final confirmation and know where I am going to hunt birds.
If you are set up more than a hundred yards from a roosting tree and you cannot see the turkeys, you can let out some very soft clucks and purrs at first light, especially after you hear a gobble. If the gobbler gobbles back to your call, it is safe to say that he heard you and knows you are there. There is a very good chance he may come in when he hits the ground. If you are close enough to see the turkey in the tree, do not call. He will pinpoint your call and study you until he knows you are not a turkey and then head the other way or stay on the roost until you have had enough. If you are calling towards a bird that is on the ground, it is a good rule of thumb that less calling is better. Just like from the roost, if a turkey hears you and can pinpoint your location and doesn’t see a hen, there is a good chance he is gone. In the early spring, when foliage is sparse, I always recommend a decoy; however, later on when things are thicker, a decoy is not as important.
Ultimately, you need to feel out the bird and play its game when it comes to calling. If you call and he gobbles but doesn’t come your way, then make a plan and go for it. Sometimes, this means your caller backing up in order to make the turkey think you are moving or sometimes it means trying to quickly reposition yourself ahead of the gobbler’s path and try calling again. In the turkey world, hens go towards the gobblers, so trying to call a gobbler to you is against their natural instincts. However, if you sound sweet enough to him, he might just go against his instincts and get a head full of lead.
Position yourself correctly
Once I have located a few gobblers a couple of mornings before season, I always like to come out the night before the opener or night before any hunt and try to roost the birds. A lot of times, mature toms will gobble on roost a time or two just before dark. If they don’t do it naturally, letting out an owl hoot or crow call might just do the trick. If I can get them to gobble, I mark it down on the GPS and plan for the morning.
After a long winter, there is nothing more rewarding and rejuvenating than getting after turkeys at first light. They can be a challenge to find in the Rocky Mountains, but they are there and in good numbers. Once you find their habitat, then you can hone in on a specific flock, then a specific gobbler, and, hopefully, capitalize on their natural desire to procreate. Turkeys are also awesome to eat so be sure to get as much meat as you can once you put one on the ground. It does not matter if you are chasing Eastern gobblers, Merriams, or Rios, I promise that if you have a bird gobbling at 100 yards, you will have the hairs on the back of your neck standing on end.
Hunting & Fishing News | 5
Hunts that you can count on to get you out in the field. I personally look at OTC tags as my main hunting opportunities, and anything the draw gods bless me with is a bonus. These are by no means bad hunts either. There is much speculation about OTC hunts across the West being a stress test with too many people in the field and not enough animals, giving the impression that they are less of a tag. I just don’t believe that though and it hasn’t been my experience. Some of the best hunts I get to go on each year are with OTC tags. They are gems and OTC tags are gold to someone looking for opportunity. The hunt is what you make it. Of course, I’ll still play the lottery systems, but these OTC tags are where most of my attention goes. They let me know I’m going hunting, instead of leaving me hoping I’m going to go hunting. All photo credits: Josh Kirchner
HOW TO HUNT YEAR ROUND By Josh Kirchner
Different species
From the cold feet, food on the fire and deer sightings, of course; these were experiences that I couldn’t get enough of. Once it was gone, it was gone though. It left me daydreaming about visions of our next hunting trip the following year. As the Octobers ticked by, I just wanted more. More time in the field to chase my passion and immerse myself in wild places. Through that desire, I soon realized that hunting season was not as small as it seemed. There were, indeed, other opportunities to get out and hunt this whole time. I just didn’t know they were there. You won’t see what you aren’t looking for, right? Fast forward to present day and hunting has now become a year-round thing for me. No longer is it confined to the month of October. With a little homework, you can stretch your hunts throughout the whole year as well.
I mentioned that this annual hunt with my dad was a deer hunt and that’s about as far as that went. Hunting big game for us always meant going deer hunting. We never really ventured outside of deer too much. Just like my revolutionary discovery with OTC tags, opening my eyes to the different big game species that my state had to offer had opportunity written all over it. In fact, by doing this, my calendar was starting to fill up quite a bit throughout the year. Aside from hunting deer in the fall, opening up to other species will open up opportunity throughout different times of the year. For instance, spring time means turkey and bear hunting just like fall means deer and elk hunting. And, to break it down farther, each species usually has several dedicated hunting seasons. There is both a spring and fall season for turkey and the same for bear. For deer, a person can choose to hunt them early season in velvet, the rut or even late season in the bitter cold. Elk hunting offers early seasons during the rut, cow hunts afterwards and, then, late hunts when the temperatures drop. We could go on and on here with each big game species. But between elk, antelope, black bear, mule deer, whitetail deer, blacktail deer, Coues deer, javelina, turkey, etc., along with the seasons dedicated to each of them, there are no shortage of hunting opportunities. goHUNT’s Filtering 2.0 is your key to finding these opportunity-type hunts.
“I’m not made of money”
Different weapons
Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
year when October would roll around, my younger Emyvery self would start getting excited for another deer hunt with dad. It was something I’d look forward to every year.
One of the first concerns that seems to get brought up about extending hunting season throughout the entirety of the year is cost. As someone who hunts all year long, I can confidently tell you that doing this doesn’t take a truck load of cash. I live what I consider a fantastic, but simple life, in a modest home with a modest income. My money doesn’t fly out of my hand in the direction of new clothes on the regular, fancy restaurants or lavish vehicles. It goes towards supporting myself, my family and my passion, which is hunting. Hunting trips are more important to me than an $80,000 truck or designer jeans. It’s experiences I thrive on. Not materialistic items. What I’m getting at here is that most people can afford to go on these blue collar hunting trips; they might just have to control their spending to make it happen.
OTC tags are GOLD
Part of the reasoning behind my thinking as a youngster was due to the fact that we’d only go on hunts that we drew. These tags were acquired through us playing our luck through a lottery system. I remember hoping early in the year that we’d get drawn and get to go hunting again that coming season. It wasn’t until I got older when I realized the magic of over-the-counter (OTC) tags.
OTC tags really offer a person the ability to plan hunts out. They are your ringers in terms of opportunity. 6 | Hunting & Fishing News
On top of looking into the different species there are to hunt, another thing to open your eyes to are the different weapons. The three main weapons that folks are hunting with are rifle, bow and muzzleloader. There are seasons for each of them, usually for each species; seasons that you could very well be a part of if you choose to. By doing a little bit of homework on when these particular hunts take place, it’ll enable a person to fill in those “huntless” gaps better throughout the year. It also really allows you to mold your season how you want it. For instance, I’m mainly a bowhunter, but recognize that there are certain hunts that I could take advantage of by picking up a rifle here and there. So, I fill most of my year with archery hunts but sprinkle one or two rifle hunts in just to get out in the field more. At the end of the day, you need to hunt the way that you truly want to hunt. If that means only with a bow or only with a rifle, then that is fine. You’ll just have to do some more digging to fill in your year. Bowhunting is much easier to do this with than with a rifle or muzzleloader by the way. There’s just much more regulations surrounding gun hunting, which translates into fewer opportunities.
Be willing to head out-of-state
The willingness to head out-of-state in the name of hunting wasn’t something that hit me immediately. My home state has plenty of opportunities to hunt, but, for elk, we are definitely limited here in Arizona. That was the driving factor that caused me to want to look elsewhere. Once I did, my maps seemed to look much smaller than they once did. States didn’t look that far away anymore. For the price of gas and a long drive, I could experience many more hunts — hunts that I simply couldn’t experience regularly in the confines of my home state.
For those really looking to go the distance and take advantage of as much hunting opportunity as they can, heading out-of-state is a no brainer. Not only does it give you the chance at even more tags, but also the chance to experience different parts of the country. There are some truly amazing places out there that will steal your breath away by their sheer beauty. And once you experience them, suddenly your world gets a little bigger. No longer are you chained to one state and bound by their draw odds. Heck, draw odds aside, a person could plan all OTC hunts and have a blast out there. By going this route, you’ll know well in advance when and where you’ll be hunting, which means more time for research and map work.
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It just takes the willingness
Whether you live in a state that has a big game season every month of the year like Arizona or one that offers very little, spanning hunts across the whole year is very doable. For me, I’ll hunt deer and javelina in January, possibly join in on a February javelina hunt, spring bear in late March through July, fall bear and deer through August, elk in September, fall bear in October, whitetails and elk in November and, then, possibly, deer again in December. All of these are OTC tags or very easy-to-draw tags throughout the West/Midwest. I’m also happily married, a father and not a trust fund baby. Passion is what drives all of these pursuits. Some people are passionate about football or working on cars. My passion is hunting. It’s my thing. Hunting year-round just comes down to how much drive someone has to make it happen. Bottom line: if you want to hunt more, then you will.
Hunting & Fishing News | 7
TREE STAND GEAR UP FOR ARCHERY SEASON! MAINTENANCE TIPS Serving The Lewis & Clark County Archery Community
FOR DEER HUNTERS
By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com
ight or wrong, on R private land, many of us leave our lock-ons and/
Judy Adams Owner
or ladders up in trees and out in the woods all year, ready to hunt next fall. If you do this, here are some important things to keep in mind.
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email: huntingfishingnews@yahoo.com The entire contents is © 2021, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent. The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 18 Issue 1 Cover Photo: ©Twildlife|depositphotos.com
Photo courtesy www.bigdeerblog.com
The straps, chains or cables that connect the stands and steps to trees are your foremost consideration when left out in the elements. These connectors will weather and wear, and routine inspection and service is a must.
Longtime BIG DEER blogger and tree stand guru Matt Cheever doesn’t skimp. On all 50 tree stands he maintains..., he uses 3 ratchet straps per climbing apparatus (ladder section or stick) and another 3 straps on each lock-on stand. He recommends 500- to 1,000-pound ratchet straps. “If one strap is chewed on by a squirrel or starts to dry out, the others will still be strong,” Matt says. “On every stand each year I replace one of the 3 straps; it’s easy to tell by fading which strap is the oldest and needs replacing. I want at least one brand-new strap on every step and stand each year. “I’m religious about one thing–how thoroughly and carefully I inspect and maintain each one. Neglecting this is not an option.” The ratchets will run you about $5 per stand and per climbing stick, well worth it. At the end of deer season, many hunters loosen the strap, chain or cable that connects the platform to the tree. This way the tree can grow and expand a little without putting undue tension and stress on the straps. When you come back to hunt next year, you must remember to re-tighten the straps or chains and lock them down! The last day of the season that I hunt a tree stand, I pack out a removable seat cushion, along with pull ropes and Lifelines. Best to keep these out of the weather and away from squirrels until next fall. If you’re worried about a thief stealing your stands, you’ve got a couple of options. One, secure the hang-on or ladder to the tree with cable and lock. Or, take down and pack out the lower sections of steps or climbing sticks. A scum-bag could still steal the stand, but it would be a lot more work and trouble.
8 | Hunting & Fishing News
All photo credits www.vortexoptics.com
YOUR GUIDE TO A DIY,
BOWHUNTING ADVENTURE By Erik Barber Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com
nothing quite like hunting the west. And, with a Ta tonhere’s few tips, you can have a ton of success without spending of money. Wide-open vistas and whiffs of sage and ponderosa pine inspire bowhunters to flock westward each fall for adventures on rolling prairies and remote mountains. After months of dissecting your gear list and studying maps, you watch in awe as the sun sprawls across a landscape that’s entirely new to you. You’ve had this day circled on the calendar for months, and your anticipation has climaxed as you scan your surroundings in search of your quarry. Planning an out-of-state, do-it-yourself bow hunt might seem like a daunting task, but the adventure to be had and memories to be made are a worthy payoff for your effort. If you’ve been toying with the idea of planning your own hunt across state lines, don’t wait any longer – the best time to get started is right now. Best part? It’s more affordable than you ever thought possible.
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BRING A HUNTING BUDDY
You can certainly take a solo approach to planning an out of state adventure, but the camaraderie and friendship cultivated by sharing camp with a hunting buddy will last a lifetime. You and your partner should share like-minded goals when it comes to hunting. Make sure you’re on the same page and have the same values before moving forward with the planning process...Together, you can plan the trip, bounce ideas off each other, and even share gear. Gearing up with a buddy keeps more cash in your wallet, tags in your pocket, and, eventually, more meat in your freezer. You need to be selective of your gear when you’re bowhunting on a budget. If you have a buddy you hunt with often, consider splitting the essentials with them. For example, you buy the tent while he funds the wood stove. When you share the same hunting values with a partner, parsing out your gear together is the most efficient use of your hard-earned money. While good gear is worth the upfront investment, you don’t always need the Taj Mahal depending on where and when you’re hunting. A low-end Coleman tent will suffice when the weather is tame, but don’t expect it to withstand gail-force winds on the prairie as a gnarly cold front blows across your hunting area. By embracing discomfort, you can reallocate the funds you’d spend on high-end gear to additional tags in your pocket.
PICK A STATE
There are lots of great states where hunting opportunities abound, offering relatively affordable license costs. (continued on page 28)
Hunting & Fishing News | 9
All photos credit: Lenny Miller www.guidefitter.com
SPRING BEAR NECESSITIES By Lenny Miller
Over the 15 years since that hunt, I have seen more bears on that one ridge than in any other two spots combined. If there were ever a perfect storm for bear hunting, that north slope in Montana is it. Why? For starters, the two-mile long ridge runs into a think, nasty bowl of timber. It receives lots of snow and bears tend to hibernate there year after year. Once they come out of the den, they head for the ridge with its rocky slopes. The giant snow drift that lies just below the top of the ridge melts slowly through the month of May into June. The constant supply of water keeps tender young grass growing for those couple months, making a wonderful salad bar for hungry bears. The snow that drifts down into the valley also keeps the forest service road closed for much of the spring, which means the bears have peace and quiet. Cover, food and seclusion—it’s all there. As the season gets into the end of May, bears are really on the move. All bears are looking for fresh protein. That may come from winter kills, cows that died while calving or elk calves and fawns.
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he month of May has just passed the midway point. T Most turkey seasons are winding down and the vegetation is lush and thick, making shed hunting next to impossible,
at least from the Midwest to the East Coast. There is one season that’s just about as good as it gets at this point—Spring Black Bear. Wyoming, Montana and Idaho have bear seasons that start between April 15 and May 1. I have seen some good bear hunting the first week of the season (April 15) in Montana, but it is definitely the exception, not the rule. I don’t think gambling on that week is worth it. I have only seen opening week pay off twice in 20 years. The first week of May seems to be the wake-up period for a lot of bears in the 6,000 to 7,500 feet elevation range. Weather is key. Late season snowstorms can keep bears in hibernation for a week or two longer than normal. A great thing about early season bears is their consistent feeding pattern. The first week or so, bears are lazily feeding around their den sites, trying to get their digestive tracts in working order before they start consuming meat. Find a bear there one evening and there’s a good chance you can kill it there the next. Several years ago on an early season hunt my client Pete and I covered more than 15 miles in the first two days of his hunt trying to locate bear sign. We followed several bear trails we found crossing a rocky slope. Fresh scat littered the north side of the two-mile ridge. We didn’t see a bear on a particular evening, but the next afternoon we were back glassing the north slope. Around 4:30 I noticed a dark spot emerge from the timber only to disappear when the sun ducked behind the clouds. More glassing turned up nothing. I wasn’t convinced the dark spot was a bear so we moved on. No more bears or sign were found so we returned to the original glassing spot. Within minutes, the dark spot reappeared and this time it was walking! Hustling up the draw and trying to beat darkness, we looked up toward a giant snow drift. There stood a blonde cinnamon colored bear. Pete made good with his 300 Weatherby. The bear turned out to be a 17-year-old sow whose teeth were worn down to the gums. She was a great bear.
10 | Hunting & Fishing News
Glassing up cow elk in their calving grounds could produce a bear. If you find a bear using this method, keep in mind the location of the elk while planning your stalk. Spook them and your bear will slink back into the timber. Boars are in search of sows this time of year as the mating season gets going. Since many areas are now lush and green, deciphering where to concentrate your efforts gets a little harder. I like good vantage points where I can cover lots of country with my Zeiss optics. Keep glassing. You never know when a bear will show up. Generally speaking, afternoons are better than mornings and warm, sunny days beat out overcast, dreary days. When you spot a bear this time of year, especially a boar searching for sows, you have to make your move and make it fast. Bears are not stationary for very long. Having a buddy along to keep an eye on the bear while you make your move is a great idea. Have a set of hand signals made up so he can help guide you in as you make your approach. Radio communication is a no-no in many states while pursuing game so make sure to check the regs before using radios. Springtime spot and stalk bear hunting provides more than just a bear hunt. Hiking or driving new country allows you to scout new ground for elk and deer season. Learning country in the spring saves valuable time in the fall, and you just might run into a bear in the process. Trying out or breaking in new gear during the spring gives you a couple months to decide if it’s the right piece for you before the rigors of a fall hunting season arrive. The weather is usually pretty nice. I did say “usually.” Anytime you are above 6,500 feet in May, be prepared for snow. It can be 80 degrees one day and blizzard conditions the next. Make sure you are prepared for it. If you are reading this and wishing it were September instead of May, give bear hunting a try. Parts of Montana and Wyoming offer hunts until the 15th of June. Some units in Idaho run until the end of July and others open up in August. Idaho and Wyoming also allow baiting. If a baited hunt is the route you want to take and you don’t live in the area, a guided hunt is your best option. Baits take time to establish and may require a permit on public land. Always be mindful of each state’s rules and regulations.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 11
Carolina Rig 101: How to Setup, Tie & Catch More Fish By Ben Team Outdoor Empire www.outdoorempire.com
Photos courtesy Ben Team www.outdoorempire.com
oft plastic baits are some of the most effective lures for S catching bass and other gamefish, and they’re among the most popular baits used by anglers. But to maximize
the value of a soft plastic lure, you must rig it in the most suitable manner for the conditions. There are a number of different ways to do so, but we’re going to talk about rigging your lures Carolina-style today. Anglers have been using Carolina rigs for decades, and they remain one of the most effective ways to present a plastic bait. We’ll talk about what a Carolina rig is, what you’ll need to fish with one, how to tie one on the end of your line, and the best times and places for using them. We’ll even explain a few helpful tips and tricks that should help you become a Carolina-rig-fishing master.
Understanding the Carolina Rig: What Is It and How Does It Work?
Simply put, a Carolina rig features a heavy bullet weight and a small bead, which are attached to the end of your main line and allowed to slide freely (the weights aren’t “pegged” in the way that they often are with Texas rigs). Carolina rig with an egg weight A length of leader is attached to a barrel swivel at the end of your main line, and a hooked soft plastic bait is tied to the opposite side of the leader. This type of setup accomplishes a couple of things: •Because you are using a heavy weight (typically between ½ and 1 ounce), you can sling a Carolina rig into the next zip code when casting. •The heavy weight also helps get your bait down to the bottom quickly. •The combination of a heavy weight, barrel swivel and bead make a commotion that helps to draw the attention of fish. •The heavy weight helps you feel every bump, divot and rock along the lake bottom. •The lengthy leader and freely sliding weight give the bass a bit more time to inhale the lure before you feel the strike and set the hook. This will drastically improve your hook-up ratio and help you miss fewer fish. •The lengthy leaders typically used with Carolina rigs allow the bait to move in a more natural fashion.
Tackle Checklist: What Do You Need for a Carolina Rig? There are a number of ways to customize a Carolina rig or alter it to suit your purposes, but you’ll need the following items to set up a Carolina rig: •A bullet weight •A plastic bead •A barrel swivel •A fluorocarbon leader •A worm hook •A soft plastic lure
The sizes and weights of these items will vary based on your circumstances, as well as your rod and reel of choice. If you are using a bait-casting rod and reel, you’ll likely want to start with 14- to 20-pound-test Fluorocarbon line or 24-pound-test braided line. It is very important that the line you use for a Carolina rig stretches very little, as you’ll often need to set the hook from a considerable distance. Most anglers will want to use a bullet weight in the 1/2- to 1-ounce range, depending on the depth of the water they’re fishing. If you are casting around the bank in shallow water, you’ll want a light weight, but you’ll want a big heavy nose weight to help the lure get to the bottom quickly when fishing deep water. You’ll need to match the bead and barrel swivel to the line and bullet weight you are using. However, barrel swivels in the size-7 to size-10 Bullet weight, plastic bead and swivel. range are usually a good place to start. The bead is primarily used to protect your knot from the weight, so just be sure that the hole in the center of the bead will completely fit around your knot. (continued on page 18)
12 | Hunting & Fishing News
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Inside Angles On Walleyes By Jason Mitchell Jason Mitchell Outdoors www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
o secret that walleyes use weeds an awful lot and N despite the fact that walleyes are known to use weeds so often, many walleye anglers still avoid fishing weeds.
Take a quick look around many good walleye fisheries from the opener on through summer and the armada of boats are typically dangling lines over classic structure. Even on lakes with slot limits where the same fish can be caught several times over the course of a summer, the fish on these classic locations get pressured. Can fish on these classic locations eat a day after getting caught and bend a rod? Absolutely but fish that are getting angling pressure become more difficult to catch. What I love about weed fish is that these fish are typically fresh because of the lack of pressure. Fresh fish make you look better. On some fisheries, the weeds are a major trump card where most of the fish will be holding in weeds. On other fisheries, most of the fish will be using classic structure and thus the reason why there is the armada of boats over every hump, reef and point but even on these lakes, there is usually a secondary population of walleyes that are using weeds and while these locations are holding fewer fish, these patterns can be very attractive because they just don’t get fished as much. Another observation is that many anglers who do target walleyes on weeds focus on the outside edge. The outside edge is always worth checking and is a high percentage location but another high percentage location that usually doesn’t get touched is the inside edge. With coontail and cabbage in particular, there is often a relatively clean inside edge that might be anywhere from four to eight feet of water. Inside of the weed bed, the bottom can often be sand, gravel or just low lying junk weed but the number of fish that can accumulate on the inside edges of weeds can be surprising. Anglers often struggle fishing the inside edge because they try to fish these spots from deep to shallow. When you hit these locations from this particular angle, you are going to have parts of the retrieve in the weeds fouled up and if the weeds reach close to the surface, you have to fight the fish in the weeds where more fish get off and you disturb more of the environment. To catch more fish on these inside edges, slide the boat up in shallow enough where you can cast either parallel with the inside edge or work the presentation from deep to shallow where the cast hits the edge and works back through the cleaner gap. For some reason, walleye anglers have a tough time sliding the boat up real shallow and working out away from the boat because they are always worried about spooking fish.
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Author Jason Mitchell. Photo courtesy www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
Once you learn the spot really well, you can slide the boat up shallow and not have to worry about going over fish. Even if you do, it is not the end of the world because as fish roll off the boat, guess where they tend to pile up? That inside edge in front of your boat. I even believe that moving these fish a little from the presence of the boat can actually even make them easier to catch at times. Here is why… there are two kinds of walleyes. The walleye laying near the bottom with fins tight to the body and the walleye that is up and cruising with fins up. The former fish laying on the bottom is about the toughest fish to catch while the later fish that is up and alert is much easier. I dare say that most of the fish you have caught in your life are the alert, cruising fish. Even on really tough bites where the fish are negative, most of the fish you are catching are still the cruisers but when things get tough, there are just fewer cruisers. Sometimes in shallow water where there is lots of good weeds especially come mid-summer, the boat bumping the fish a short distance can actually help you catch those fish because as they move away from the boat, they are alert.
Early in the season, I am not as effective with bumping the fish and take great pains to back off the spot but for some reason come late spring on into summer, a little presence is often good. Might be because as the weeds reach the surface, the weeds form a nice secure barrier that the fish slide into and they don’t scatter as much. Might be a water temperature deal where the water takes on more color and the fish don’t spook as much as they do earlier in the season when the water clarity can typically be better. Don’t know exactly why, just have a few ideas but the point is this… when you stop trying to fish a weed bed from the deep outside edge and actually slide up into the spots with some strategy, you learn so much more about the spot. You can see the intricacies of the spot and learn it like the back of your hand and you are going to catch a lot more fish.
Great spots might be little troughs or depressions in the bottom on the inside edge. Could be some small patches of gravel and rock and the harder bottom keeps weeds from growing and forms a nice sharp edge that holds fish. Under closer examination on many weed beds, you might find open holes and lanes where the weeds resemble a marbled cake, lots of lush weeds interspersed with clean openings that hold fish. High sun with no wind is often the best situation for really getting dialed into a location where you can physically see some of these locations. Hit some waypoints so you have this Intel for the day that is cloudy or overcast.
These shallow weed patterns often fish best during low light. Early morning and evening are obvious prime times but another prime time is any gentle breeze or even recreational boat activity that adds enough chop to move the very tops of the weeds. Reason being especially with cabbage is that a thin film or residue often collects on the leaves and any movement will slightly cloud the water as this debris falls off the leaves. If I were to pick a favorite situation on many lakes, my ideal day would be overcast, light winds and maybe even add some rain. That is a perfect shallow weed walleye day but ironically, these are the toughest conditions to learn a new spot as everything is so much harder to see. Here is something else I have noticed a lot… inside edges of weed beds on north shores often get really good during the day when there is sun. Reason being is that there is a nice deep shadow created by the weeds when the sun gets high. The ultimate tool for hitting walleyes in these inside edges and lanes in my opinion are jigs. In northern Minnesota, you better have some shiners in the boat. In the Dakotas, either half a crawler or a leech is often the ticket. Regarding jigging, I like to switch back and forth from a few basic setups. Snap jigging a 1/8 ounce stand up Fireball jig with six pound monofilament line is a proven technique that just works...the Jason Mitchell Elite Series Walleye Rod line up is the perfect jig rod for this style of fishing, the JMS641MLS is a six foot four inch spinning rod that features a high performance IM8 Graphite Blank and Fuji Guide Train... The mono seems to let the jig hang and glide in the water after each snap and that hang time is ugly for triggering fish especially when you have a live hooked shiner struggling against the jig. The other way to fish jigs that is really effective for me is to simply swim jigs slowly where they never really touch bottom. With both snapping and swimming, you can also do really well supplementing live bait for soft plastics like the Impulse paddle minnow because soft plastics are so durable in weeds. With soft plastics, I like to use Bionic ten pound braid. There are so many variations of these basic presentations regarding mixing in twitches, the height of the snap, etc. but that is a moving target that can change each day. Keep in mind as well that as summer progresses and the fish bury in the bottoms of the open holes within large weed beds, just short pitching jigs into the holes and letting the jig coast to the bottom will catch a lot of fish. This is slow monotonous fishing but the results can be impressive. No hole will hold several fish but they all add up and this pattern is easiest to fish with calm sunny conditions where you can physically see the lay out of the weed bed and can make short accurate pitches close to the boat.
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Telephone 406-883-2888 Ex. 7294 Applications will be available: Zimmers Tackle-Pablo, Westland Seed & Sports-Ronan, Walmart-Polson, Sportsman’s Warehouse-Missoula, FWP-Missoula and Kalispell, Sportsman & Ski Haus-Kalispell, Bretz RV & Marine-Missoula, Bob Ward & Sons-Missoula, Snappys Sports Senter-Kalispell, CSKT NRD Offices-Polson We ask that all boats from out of the Flathead area be inspected for AIS.
Everything will be subject to changeCOVID concerns may cause issues that will have to be addressed as we move closer to the event. We remind you to follow all fishing regulations. The Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes have a special $13 fishing permit for the south half on Flathead Lake that is available wherever fishing permits are sold.
Three Spinning Outfits
Besides being no standard for rod power or action, just about every series of spinning rods is available in a dozen different lengths. Honestly, does anyone really believe that two or three inches in length makes that big a difference in how a rod of the same action or power performs? Vertical jigging requires a rod that is much stiffer than typically available. Jake is holding a Daiwa 6’-6” medium action rod that he cut about six inches off the tip and replaced the tip top. Shortening the rod makes it stiffer and speeds up the angler’s reaction time making it much easier to stick walleye when vertical jigging in deep water.
EVERY
Walleye Guy Needs By Mark Romanack Fishing 411 www.fishing411.net
R
Photo courtesy www.fishing411.net
ecently I spent a frustrating hour at a popular retailer trying to pick out some spinning rod/reel combinations suitable for walleye fishing. The process started out simple enough, but the waters soon got muddy. As I started reading the fine print on the rods, I quickly became perplexed that seemingly no two rods featured the same action or power rating. There really are no standards in the fishing industry regarding the power or stiffness of a fishing rod. One manufacture calls their stick a Medium Light action and another manufacture who uses virtually the same graphite materials, length, action and power calls their product a Medium Action. It seems that every different manufacturer goes their own direction and the results are a market place flooded with ridiculous amounts of product to pick from. Don’t get me wrong, choice is a good thing in fishing. Unfortunately, when the market becomes bogged down with too many choices anglers get confused and in the end struggle to make purchase decisions.
The Ultimate Fishing Experience
Here’s how I cut to the quick when it comes to picking out rods for the most popular walleye fishing applications. Serious anglers will need three different spinning rods to attack the most common walleye spin fishing presentations. ROD NO. 1 The first rod in my “must have” walleye line up is specialized enough that I only apply it to one important presentation. Vertical jigging in rivers requires a rod that is a little shorter and stiffer than the typical spinning rod. Because river fishermen are often using larger size jigs in the 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and even one ounce sizes, the rod needs to be stiff enough to handle jigs of these weights. The typical six foot spinning rod in a medium action/power is barely stiff enough to handle a 3/8 ounce jig. Something a touch stiffer is required to fish1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and one ounce jigs. Because a jigging rod this length and stiffness is nearly impossible to find, I’ve for years fashioned my own by cutting a few inches off the rod tip using a high speed arrow saw, then replacing the tip top. A six and a half foot medium action rod when cut down to about six feet in length will usually produce a rod stiff enough for serious vertical jigging applications. A stiff rod works wonders for detecting subtle walleye bites in deep water... Unfortunately, this extra stiff rod is pretty much useless for any of the other popular walleye spin fishing presentations.
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ROD NO. 2 The second rod in my spinning arsenal is a seven foot model that will see a lot of use pitching smaller jigs, fishing blade baits and slip sinker rigging. Depending on the brand this rod could be a Medium-Light or perhaps Medium power action. I like spinning rods with a split-butt style handle. The skeletonize version of the traditional cork rod grip, split-butts help to lighten the rod. Another advantage of split-butt rods is they place your hand in direct contact with the rod blank, helping to feel even the most subtle strikes. ROD NO. 3 The third spinning rod every walleye angler needs is the longest of the bunch. I like a seven foot, six inch long medium action model. This slightly longer rod is very useful for casting light crankbaits such as the Berkley Flicker Shad, Rapala Shad Raps or Salmo Hornet series plus this rod is ideal for fishing slip float rigs. For the multi-species angler this longer spinning rod is also ideal for throwing tube baits and other soft plastics for bass fishing. MATCHING REELS On my stiffer and short spinning rods for vertical jigging, I want a very small and lightweight spinning reel. The best size reels for this application are the 2000 models. This reel is loaded about 1/3 full of monofilament line and then top dressed with about 75 yards of 10# test Berkley Nanofil. To the Nanofil I add a 24 inch leader of 15 pound test fluorocarbon line which is in turn tied directly to my jigs. Nanofil has zero stretch and makes it easy to detect even subtle bites and the fluorocarbon leader gives me an invisible connection between line and jig. The rod I use for pitching jigs and slip sinker rigging is paired up with a slightly larger 2500 series reel. When pitching jigs
line capacity is not a huge issue, but often when slip sinker rigging a significant amount of line is played off the reel. Again I recommend loading about one third of the spool with monofilament as a backing line and then adding about 100 yards of 10# test Nanofil. When pitching jigs I add a 24 inch leader of 15 pound test fluorocarbon tied directly to the jig. For slip sinker rigging, I slide the braid through the sinker and then tie on a small barrel swivel. To the swivel I add my leader, hook and live bait. Now for the longest rod in my spinning arsenal, a bigger reel is in order for seven and a half foot rods. I like a 3000 series reel for casting light crankbaits and also slip floats. The larger reel spool does a much better job of allowing line to play off the reel smoothly, allowing maximum casting distance. The ultimate line for casting light crankbaits is of course Berkley’s Nanofil in either 8 or 10 pound test. I use about a three foot leader of 10-12 pound test fluorocarbon when casting crankbaits with Nanofil. For fishing slip floats I prefer to spool up with eight pound test monofilament line. Bobber stops required for fishing slip floats tighten down on and function much better with monofilament lines. Having two reel spools and keeping one rigged with Nanofil and a second with monofilament makes it easy to switch rigs as necessary. Unfortunately, not many manufacturers provide a second spool anymore. An extra spool can however be purchased directly from the manufacturer. SUMMING IT UP The three spinning outfits described here have served me well for targeting walleye with all the common presentations. The real challenge of course is picking just three from the hundreds of spinning rods on the market these days.
Hunting & Fishing News | 17
Carolina Rig 101: How to Setup, Tie & Catch More Fish (continued from page 12) You’ll want to use a leader that is slightly thinner than your main line. This will not only provide improved performance and action, but it’ll also serve as a breaking point if you get snagged. This way, you’ll only have to tie the hook and worm back on, instead of the whole weight, bead and barrel swivel assembly. You can use whatever soft plastic bait you like, and just use the same hook you would when Texas-rigging. Lizards are especially popular (and often effective) but worms, stick baits and creature baits work too. An offset or extra-wide gap hook in the 2/0 to 4/0 range is usually ideal.
Tying a Carolina Rig: A Step-by-Step Guide
Once you’ve assembled all of the necessary gear, it’s pretty easy to set up a Carolina rig. Just follow the steps listed below: •Slide a bullet weight on the end of your line. The nose of the weight should point up the line, toward your rod tip. •Slide the bead on the main line, and then tie the free end of the main line to one side of the swivel. •Tie your leader to the opposite side of the barrel swivel. •Tie the free end of the leader to the worm hook, and then slide your plastic lure on the hook. Lubricate and then snug up the knots with a slow steady pull and you’re ready to start fishing. *Note: Most anglers use Trilene knots, improved clinch knots or Palomar knots when tying Carolina rigs.
Strategies and Techniques: How to Fish a Carolina Rig
Using a Carolina rig is fairly straightforward. Essentially, you’ll want to cast the rig out beyond your target zone, let it settle to the bottom, and then start retrieving it. But there is a bit more to it than that. For starters, it can be a Side arm cast bit difficult to cast a Carolina rig – particularly if you are using a long leader. The leader makes the rig a bit unwieldy and the heavy weight can cause a cannonball-like splash when it hits the water. Accordingly, you’ll want to use a long, gentle, side-armed lob when casting a Carolina rig. This will reduce the likelihood of snagging trees or getting your line tangled, and it will also reduce the splash created if you cast the rig on a low trajectory. Once the rig hits the water, let it sink all the way to the bottom. Wait a moment or two, and then begin your retrieve.
18 | Hunting & Fishing News
Different anglers prefer different types of retrieves, but you can essentially do one of two things: You can drag it back about a foot or two at a time (pause for several seconds between drags) or you can bounce it back. Because the lure is on the other side of the weight from you, strikes can feel a bit different the first time or two you use a Carolina rig. Nevertheless, employ a sweeping, sideways hookset once you get a nibble for the best chance at success. Try to pick up a lot of line smoothly, rather than trying to jerk a short length of line quickly, like you may do with a Texas rig.
The Best Times, Conditions and Circumstances for a Carolina Rig
You can fish a Carolina rig anywhere with a relatively obstacle-free bottom, from the shore to deep water humps and channels. They’ll also work on grassy or weedy flats; just make sure to lengthen your leader a bit to keep the lure above the top of the vegetation. They’re most effective in about 10 to 20 feet of water, but they will catch fish in shallower or deeper water too. If you are fishing shallower than this, scale back your leader length and opt for a lighter weight (personally, I use Carolina rigs a lot in very shallow water with a ¼-ounce weight). Conversely, deeper water will call for a heavier weight and longer leader. As always, focus your efforts near significant structure, such as river channels, points, ledges and humps. Dragging a Carolina rig across the tip of a point or over deep-water humps can be incredibly effective. Carolina rigs are most effective in the summer, after the spawn has finished. However, you can use them at any time of the year, during just about any weather conditions. If the fish are relating to the bottom, a Carolina rig will usually work.
Catching More Fish with a Carolina Rig: Now that you know the basics of the Carolina rig, you’ll want to take a moment to review the tips and tricks detailed below, to have the best chance of success. •Use a long rod when fishing a Carolina rig. A 7-foot-long, medium-heavy rod will work, but you’ll find a 7 ½- to 8-foot-long rod to be more effective. •Carolina rigs make great “search baits.” They may not allow you to cover water as quickly as a crankbait or spinnerbait, but they’re often a better choice when the water is warm, or the fish are sluggish. •As a general rule, use larger soft plastic baits when the fish are actively feeding, but opt for smaller, more compact baits when the bite is slow. •Use a long leader – between about 3 and 5 feet – in very clear water, but scale back to 18 or 24 inches in muddy or stained water. •Always go with titanium or brass weights, as they transmit vibrations up the line very effectively. •If the fish keep hitting your weight, rather than your hook, consider swapping out the nose weight for a weedless jig. It will accomplish the same thing, and give you two chances to hook fish (be sure that this is legal to do in your area – some places prohibit fishing with multi-hook lines). A lot of anglers are reticent to try fishing with a Carolina rig because they take a minute to rig up and they aren’t exactly exciting to use. However, they’re easier to tie on than most anglers would initially think, and they’re incredibly effective if used in the right situation. So, give the Carolina rig a try this summer – you’ll surely be glad you did.
8 Bucket List Trout Hatches
Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com
By Zach Lazzari
atches are all about the timing. When you get it right, H the fly fishing can be flat-out epic. Picture clouds of insects plummeting to the water where every big trout in the river is waiting with an open mouth. On some rivers, these mega hatches happen annually and on others, it’s a once every seven years type of occurrence. Get your calendar out and start planning to catch the biggest hatch events of the year: MOTHER’S DAY CADDIS Timing is anything but exact for this western hatch as it often coincides with runoff flows. When you catch it just right however, the number of bugs is immense and the fish go absolutely crazy. Focus on the last two weeks of April and the first week of May for this hatch in the Rocky Mountain states. Southwest Montana, Wyoming and Colorado have notable hatches. The Yellowstone River is well known for having a serious explosion of Mother’s Day Caddis. Get out your favorite elk hair caddis and get ready to skate it over your favorite runs.
SALMONFLIES You just can’t go wrong with these huge bugs and the hatch takes place on a bunch of amazing rivers. The Deschutes River in Oregon has an early spring hatch while Montana, Wyoming and Colorado typically see bugs coming around the end of May and lasting through mid to late June. The Gunnison River Gorge has one of the biggest salmonfly hatches around and it flows through a remote canyon that requires a multiple day float trip. Many anglers will start fishing the big nymphs as they crawl towards the shoreline. When the hatch begins, giant orange stoneflies are crashing on the water. Fish a giant dry fly like a sofa pillow or foam salmonfly imitation and hold on tight because the big fish are looking towards the surface. HEXAGENIA MAYFLY These massive mayflies are often bright yellow and they hatch in large numbers, bringing every trout to the surface. The hatch happens just before dark, leaving a short window of opportunity with visibility. Continuing to fish into the darkness is a common approach to capitalize on the feeding fish. The hatch occurs during the summer months with late June and early July being prime time in the midwest. Michigan has some excellent Hex hatches on rivers like the AuSable and Manistee Rivers. California’s Fall River also has a major hatch. SPRUCE MOTH Spruce moths look very similar to caddis but they are non-aquatic insects that bring trout into a feeding frenzy. The timing is also perfect during the late summer when other hatches are winding down and the action is slow otherwise. The moths actually live in the spruce and fir trees but they come down to the water where they are susceptible to trout. Late August and September have the bugs out in big numbers and the fish go crazy for the high calorie meal. This is a Rocky Mountain hatch so think Western Montana, the Green River in Wyoming, Alberta, Colorado and New Mexico. (continued on page 38)
Hunting & Fishing News | 19
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4 Mistakes I Made On My First Turkey Hunt By Spencer Durrant Guidefitter www.guidefitter.com
Friction calls – like a push-and-pull or pot call – aren’t that hard either, but a box call is about as simple as it gets. I started out with a box call from my local Sportsman’s Warehouse, and I think I spent $7 or $8 on it. They’re cheap enough you can get a few to find one with a sound you like.
Wrong gear
I’m a self-proclaimed gear junkie. My house looks like a warehouse at times, with the amount of gear and gadgets I have in at any one time for reviews. And one thing I’ve learned from my years spent with gear is that no piece of gear will turn you into an instant sporting success. That being said, the right and wrong gear exist for different circumstances, and I’ve had all the wrong gear for turkeys. This year, I’ll have the following: •Camo pants and shirt that match my terrain •Two mouth calls, a predator call, and a box call •Decoys •Better shotgun sling for quicker access and shooting
Photo courtesy Spencer Durrant www.Guidefitter.com
I figured sharing my mistakes will help others - and myself - learn. learned more from my hunting failures than my hunting Iit’ve successes. My 2018 elk season was full of screwups, and ended in a full freezer. Without the month-and-a-half-long
hunt to teach me what not to do, though, I’m not sure if I would’ve filled my tag. While I’ve leveraged learning the hard way into success on the elk hunt, I haven’t managed to make that happen for turkeys. I had a limited-entry tag last year, and a general season tag the year before that. Both years I failed in rather spectacular fashion. With the general season hunt here in Utah opening up at the end of April, I’ve started to piecemeal together a new plan of attack. I’ve read a library’s worth of articles about turkey hunting, discussed it ad nauseum with turkey hunting buddies, and have spent hours practicing a turkey call. What I haven’t yet done, however, is to take an honest look back at my first turkey hunts and determine exactly where I went wrong and how to improve. So, in the spirit of helping anyone else who’s new to turkey hunting and feels completely overwhelmed, I figured sharing my mistakes will help others - and myself - learn.
Not enough time scouting
My first two turkey hunts didn’t involve a ton of scouting. I hunted where I’d seen turkeys before, but I never took note of where those birds would roost, when they’d waddle out to feed, or any other important behaviors. Scouting, for me, feels like the most important part of hunting. I spent the better part of a month scouting for elk last fall, and it paid off. If I hadn’t been walking ridges, glassing hillsides, looking for sign, and constantly on the move, I wouldn’t have covered enough ground to get a sense of where the elk were, and when they’d likely be in a certain spot. It’s the same idea with turkeys. If I want a legitimate shot of killing one this year, I need to find a reliable flock and get to know them intimately.
Experience with calls
You’ll also want to pick a call based on how much experience you have using them for other types of game. Even though there’s a big difference in sound from a cow elk call to a turkey call, the theory behind using a mouth reed to make those sounds isn’t all that different. The consensus among all the folks I’ve spoken with is that box calls are the easiest to master for beginners.
22 | Hunting & Fishing News
On my first turkey hunt, I didn’t have any of the right camo. I’m not one to dump hundreds of dollars on pants and shirts, so this year I picked up low-desert patterns for pants and shirts from my local big-box outdoor retailer. For where I plan on hunting this year, that should help me get closer to the turkeys.
No calling practice
I touched on this in a previous article about calls, but it’s essential to practice your calls. Whether you’re imitating a tom or want to sound like a barn owl or other predator, you don’t want to learn on the hunt. This past year I used elk calls for the first time. I think I had my mouth call with me everywhere I went for a solid three weeks. I practiced any chance I got, and eventually was rewarded when I called a cow within 200 yards with my calf call. Hopefully, I’ll get that same return on my investment this year with turkeys.
No understanding of behavior
Part of what makes hunting so alluring, especially in a world that’s increasingly obsessed with explaining everything, is the opportunity to learn how and why animals act a certain way. This is knowledge you won’t find on Twitter or Facebook; this is the real-life, dirt-on-your-hands understanding that only comes from hours of quiet observation. My first turkey hunts involved next to no knowledge of turkey behavior. I’ve since spent a lot of time researching their behavior, complete with time behind a blind at dusk and sunrise. While I’m far from any kind of turkey expert, I feel like I have a much better grasp now of how these birds will behave, and what impact those behaviors will have on my hunting plans. Turkey hunting has proven to be the most difficult of all hunts for me. I’m not sure if I should publicly admit that or not, but it’s the truth. Maybe their small size - compared to big game - has something to do with it? I’m kidding. Sort of. Levity aside, I’m really looking forward to this year’s hunt. I don’t know if I’ll eat tag soup or not, but I feel better about it than I ever have before. And that Photo courtesy Spencer Durrant confidence is www.Guidefitter.com worth a lot.
Gone In 60 Seconds: Beginning Elk Hunting Tips To Make Your First Shot Count By Katie Marchetti Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com
sink to the earth looking for a steady place for your hand to rest. This is the moment you’ve waited for - are you prepared for what will ensue? As Archilochus said, “We don’t rise to the level of our expectations, we fall to the level of our training.” For new and seasoned hunters alike the difference between a successful and an unsuccessful hunt comes down to the 60 seconds before the first shot is taken.
HOME PREPARATION Think you’re ready to head out on your first elk hunt? It takes practice to be physically and mentally ready to tag that bull. Photos by Rick Hutton www.vortexoptics.com
PREPARING FOR YOUR FIRST ELK HUNT
There’s a difference in the air, a crispness that alerts your senses to the changing season, a brittleness you long to hear broken by the bugle of a bull elk. As you feel the familiar weight of your hunting pack settle onto your back, and sling the rifle over your shoulder, your foot finds its place among the cross-stitch pattern of fallen leaves and deadfall beams. Your eyes search for blonde and brunette horizontal lines beneath a canopy of vertical trees and quaking aspen leaves. Sign, scent, and the climb ahead shortens your breath to a clipped staccato. A bugle reverberates across the mountain, a shadow of movement raises the hair on the back of your neck, and your hand shakes as it holds the glass for your searching eyes. Fumbling with your sling and silently cursing the pack buckles that won’t release what you need, you
When a hunter heads out to the prairie or peaks in search of Wapiti, proficiency with their tools should be the last thing on their mind. Proficiency begins at home long before one’s tags arrive in the mail. Seek out a friend, colleague, or mentor who’s experience exceeds your own to help prepare you for your time in the field. Utilize your downtime during the cold winter months by familiarizing yourself with your rifle. A small investment that will pay dividends in the long run is a set of snap caps. Practice loading and unloading your rifle with these dummy rounds, so these movements become second nature. Lay on the living room floor in the prone position to practice working the bolt and dry firing. The more comfortable you become with your rifle here, the more comfortable you will be when you take it to the range. In the real-world weapons jam, so this is also a good time to learn how to clear out any malfunction your rifle could have beforehand. Practice un-jamming your rifle while using snap caps so you can calmly and safely rectify the situation should it ever happen in the field. (continued on page 35)
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Hunting & Fishing News | 23
3. The Truth About Hunting with Hounds and Bait While anti-hunting groups have attacked the use of both hounds and bait in many places around the country, these methods of hunting bears actually help us to be more selective. We can focus on harvesting mature boars, and much more easily avoid killing sows and immature bears. Don’t let anyone tell you there’s anything lacking in the fair chase ethics of a hunt like this. Once you’ve joined our houndsmen in a cross-country chase with a bear, or spend time with our guides who know these mountains and carefully select bait sites, we know you’ll come away with a much better understanding of why these hunts are not only ethical, but also a highly important part of bear management for our game and fish agencies.
4. Black and Color Phase Bears Photo credit: Table Mountain Outfitters
4 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT
IDAHO SPRING BEAR HUNTS
By Ryan McSparran Table Mountain Outfitters www.tablemountainoutfitters.com
Spring bears retain their thick coats coming off the winter months, and the altitude here means that we rarely see badly rubbed hides. Not only is the hide quality exceptional, but our Idaho bears show a variety of color phases. Not many other regions boast such diversity in color phase black bears. Each year, our hunters take bears that are black, brown, cinnamon and chocolate. A blonde phase bear is never out of the question either.
daho black bear hunts provide the ultimate in spring bear Iwith hunting excitement. With the opportunity to hunt bears hounds in the mornings and then watch silently near
bait in the evenings, it’s the best of both worlds. These two experiences are certainly different. And that’s part of what makes this hunt so much fun. If you’re considering a spring black bear hunt, here are a few things you should know:
1. Hunting Black Bears with Hounds Our Idaho Black Bear hunts typically begin early in the morning, with our excellent guides and a group of hard-working hounds. From their boxes in the truck, these hounds can pick up the scent of a bear as we move along logging roads. When the dogs are cut loose, the action begins. Until you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to describe the excitement of pursuing bears through this rugged country on foot.
2. Black Bear Hunting over Bait In the evenings, hunters will then have the opportunity to sit quietly at our strategically-placed bait sites. After a fast-paced morning hunt, this quiet sit in the woods is a perfect change of pace. The stillness of the evening here in Idaho bear country is beautiful. What’s more, hunting black bears over bait offers an excellent opportunity to closely watch and observe bears in a way that otherwise wouldn’t be possible. While it’s a very different experience from the morning hunt on foot, it’s still exciting in its own way.
24 | Hunting & Fishing News
Photo credit: Table Mountain Outfitters
Spring Black Bear Hunts With Table Mountain Outfitters If you want to chase color phase black bears, these Idaho spring hunts are an outstanding experience. This area allows us to hunt with any weapon, so bring your rifle, pistol or bow. The weather is generally cool or pleasant. And whether you’re watching a bear from a blind, or catching your breath at the base of a tree, these hunts provide the opportunity to study a bear before deciding to pull the trigger. For dates, pricing and references, please have a look at our BEAR HUNTING PAGE https://www.tablemountainoutfitters. com/hunts/bear/. If you’d like to chat with us about specifics or availability, please send us a message at https://www.tablemountainoutfitters.com/contact-us/ or give us a call at 307-632-6352.
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TARGET PANIC: WHAT TO DO & HOW TO BEAT IT By Trail Kreitzer
Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
hen I started bowhunting 15 years ago I began with W a simple set of instructions: just pull the bow back, look through the peep sight, put the pin in the middle and
slowly squeeze the trigger. Seems simple, right? For awhile it was and shooting a compound bow accurately seemed a relatively easy task that I thoroughly enjoyed. Every spare moment I had I would pick up my bow and head out back to shoot a few arrows. Over time, I noticed that moving the pin into the center of the target and holding it there seemed to be an increasingly difficult task. I would arrive at full draw, settle in and try to aim, but my pin seemed to freeze at 3 o’clock just to the right of the center of the target. I would try to force the pin into the center and hold it, but it was difficult to consistently hold dead center. This led to, “drive by shooting.” Since I could not seem to hold the pin in the center, I would force it slowly over and as soon as the pin crossed over the intended target I would quickly punch the release. Following the “drive by shooting” phenomenon, I started to experience an odd hitch or flinch prior to releasing an arrow and every so often I would flinch and completely miss an entire target. My groups got bigger and bigger and a day at the range began to be something I dreaded. I was so frustrated that I was almost ready to give up on archery completely. I was suffering from target panic, a psychological disorder that causes an archer to freeze off target or flinch upon releasing an arrow, causing terrible off target misses and possible wounded game. It is estimated that as many as 90% of all archers will deal with “target panic” at some point, and if you shoot a bow and arrow long enough, it will likely affect you, too. It is debatable what exactly causes target panic, but anxiety and anticipation seem to be at the heart of the problem. Some suggest that the fear of missing causes anxiety which in turn causes us subconsciously to hold off target so that we do not risk failing. Others say that it is the learned connection between the eye, brain and our release hand — the eye sees the pin cross the target, brain triggers the fire reflex and the hand punches the trigger. Over time we begin to anticipate the shot and that causes anxiety and flinching. Whatever the case, the symptoms are the same: freezing off target, inconsistent shooting, flinching, and frustration. Those afflicted with target panic do not need to give up archery or bowhunting. There are ways to combat this disorder and get back to shooting confidently again. Before I begin, I should note that the recommended process and the time it takes can be difficult. There will be a temptation to give up on new methods and go back to shooting normally because they can be uncomfortable and boring at times, but if you are going to get over target panic, you must commit to doing whatever it takes.
COMBATING TARGET PANIC The first thing you should do is put down your bow and arrow and pick up a training aid. There are training aids available at most archery shops, but a piece of rope tied into a length that matches your draw length also works quite well.
26 | Hunting & Fishing News
All photo credits: Trail Kreitzer
Next, tie a D-loop onto the rope, similar to the one currently on your bow string. At this point, you may want to reconsider switching the type of release you shoot. The majority of archers with target panic issues are shooting an index finger style release. There is nothing wrong with this type of release and they make a lot of practical sense, especially for hunting. However, I would advise you to switch to a back tension or hinge-style release in the interim to deal with target panic issues. While switching to a back tension release or thumb activated trigger will not cure target panic, it will provide an opportunity to learn a new technique and what proper shot execution should feel like. A lot of archers that I talk to about switching to a hinge cannot get over the fact there is not a trigger and they typically do not understand how they work. With a little practice, using a hinge release is not all that difficult. Just make sure to practice using your practice rope instead of your bow.
USING A HINGE RELEASE
A hinge works on a half moon cam with a hook that rests on the edge of the half moon. This is what keeps the release from firing if the pressure is correct. As the angle/pressure transfers from the index finger to the back three fingers, it allows the tension of the hook to slide off the moon as the release fires. The first step to using a hinge release correctly is being able to draw. Hold the release in your hand with the tension on your index finger and your thumb rested either on the provided thumb peg or on the back of your index finger. Your other three fingers should have little to no tension initially on the release.
TRAINING ON A PRACTICE ROPE
Draw your practice rope as you would your bow. As you draw you must retain the pressure on your index finger otherwise the release will fire as the pressure/angle changes. (continued page 29)
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Pope and Young Club Announces New World Record Rocky Mountain Goat
Pope and Young Club www.pope-young.org n Saturday, December 5th, the Pope and Young Club convened a Special Panel of Judges in Prescott, AZ for a potential P&Y World Record Mountain Goat. Kaleb Baird’s mountain goat scored an amazing 53 4/8” and is now the largest bow-harvested Mountain Goat in North America. This amazing goat was shot in Alaska, on September 11, 2020. Measurers present at the Special Panel...were Milo Durfee, Brian Rimsza, Roy E. Grace (Records Chairman), and Marvin Zieser. With a final score of 53 4/8” Baird’s mountain goat was confirmed as the new P&Y World Record. This goat surpasses the previous largest in the records program by 2/8 of an inch, which was taken just 10 short months ago. “Leading up to this hunt I’d known there was the potential for a truly special billy. I joked with some friends over the summer that the plan was to take a record goat in hopes of enticing a hunting partner”, said Kaleb Baird. However, with a highly unpredictable work schedule and the travel complications 2020 presented I wasn’t able to get any commitments, so I headed up the mountain solo during the second week of September. It just so happened to be the best stretch of weather we had for the entire year in Southeast Alaska. I found this billy on day four and spent the first half of the day ascending to his perch. By the time I got there he’d moved, and I thought I’d lost him for the day. One last pass through his previous hangout and I stumbled right into him and a smaller partner. He stood for a great 31-yard shot but managed to make the edge of the mountain and drop into a nasty avalanche chute for his final dash. When I finally got to him his right horn was buried in some gravel and I thought it was shattered. Lifting up his head I could see he’d only chipped about an inch and, while not an expert, I could tell his left horn was absolutely world class. I think it’s truly awesome to add this billy to the class of 2019 Ketchikan goats taken by Rosey Roseland and Bryan Moody. I hope all three are on display in Reno to showcase how impressive the goat herd currently is in Southeast Alaska!” “Congratulations to Kaleb Baird on his very special Rocky Mountain Goat, and the Pope and Young Club’s new World Record. The previous record was declared on February 15th, 2020, less than a year ago. This was also the third Rocky Mountain Goat meeting the criteria to go through a special panel in the last 12 1/2 months.” Eli Randall, Director of Records...
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YOUR GUIDE TO A DIY,
B OWHUNTING ADVENTURE (continued from page 9) All states have different rules and regulations that apply to purchasing your hunting license, so be sure to check in with the specific state you have in mind. Make sure you can purchase the license over the counter as opposed to drawing randomly or by acquiring preference points over multiple years. Draw states that require point building are great, and it’s certainly a worthwhile game to play if you’re thinking long-term. But since you’re going to hunt every year and don’t want to sit on the sidelines while you wait for that dream hunt, take advantage of OTC states. South Dakota and Nebraska, for example, allow bowhunters to take whitetails or mule deer with an archery license for less than $300. If you’re looking for an even more affordable option, consider Wisconsin, where bowhunters can buy a reduced-price license for $79.75. Regardless of which state you settle on, take some time to research tag price and amount of public land. Before you get into the details of your hunt, like how you’re going to conquer the local terrain, make sure and understand the details of the tags and licenses required. If cost is a big issue, there are plenty of states that offer bowhunters extremely affordable price points.
BE RESOURCEFUL (FORUMS, BIOLOGISTS, AND NETWORKING) After you choose a state, it’s time to find a hunting spot. Research hunting forums, social media, or any other place where you can find information about recent hunter success. Dig into the state’s fish and wildlife agency’s website for any information that break harvest reports down by county or region. This information provides a clear understanding of the area’s herd density, which makes it easier to eliminate certain areas, and since you’re not paying a guide, you can gain valuable intel by digging deep into publicly accessible resources. Once you’ve identified a few regions within your state, it’s time to drill deeper. Scour tools like OnX Maps or GoHUNT to learn what percentage of the area you’re hunting is publicly accessible. I run these applications simultaneously on my laptop whenever I’m e-scouting, which allows me to pair GoHUNT’s valuable quantitative data about harvest metrics with a clear public/private ownership boundaries from OnX.
MAKE A LIST The last thing you want is to forget an important piece of equipment on a hunt hundreds of miles from home. Not only is forgotten gear an inconvenience, but replacing it at a local sporting goods store can be a pricey consequence. Instead, make a spreadsheet that outlines everything you’ll need to ensure your time away from home is spent comfortably. Separate your lists by hunting gear, camping items, and food so you’re not overwhelmed by one giant document. In addition to your hunting and camping gear, don’t forget the small necessities like a spare headlamp, portable phone chargers, dish soap, or washcloths. Print your spreadsheets and physically cross out items as you go through it after they’re packed to ensure you don’t leave anything behind. Once again, don’t go overboard on your first few DIY bowhunt. Pre-cooked meals that are frozen and stored in a cooler, like lasagna or stew, are a great way to enjoy the comforts of a home-cooked meal when hunting from a basecamp. In addition, pre-cooked meals require less prep time when you’re simply trying to fuel yourself after a long day of hunting, and don’t spoil as fast as other options.
SET YOUR EXPECTATIONS Meat in the freezer is the goal of every hunt, but be sure to set realistic expectations. Finding and harvesting deer with limited time in an unfamiliar place is challenging. With that in mind, understand that targeting mature deer shown commonly in most hunting shows in mainstream media is a difficult task. Tailor your goals to what you personally enjoy, and don’t be influenced by outside factors. Whether you simply want to bring back venison or go toe-to-toe with a wary, old buck, hunt in whatever legal means leaves you feeling entirely satisfied at the end of the trip.
HAVE FUN As hunters, we share an appreciation for nature and exploring new places. If there’s a better way to enjoy the outdoors than spending time in the woods, bow in hand, entirely disconnected from the daily hustle and bustle, I’m not aware of it. Whether you’re relatively new to hunting or a seasoned vet, consider planning a hunt in a state that’s foreign to you. The youthful excitement that’ll overwhelm you in the months, weeks, and days leading up to the trip will leave you yearning for next year’s adventure after it concludes. Don’t wait anymore – start planning your ultimate bowhunting adventure right now...
MAP SCOUTING Once you’ve identified a few regions in your state, it’s time to drill deeper. Digital mapping applications, like OnX Hunt, showcase clear public and private land boundaries. GoHUNT’s Insider program provides detailed information for a select few western states, including percentage of public land and hunter success statistics by region, county, or unit. By pairing these programs together, hunters can find specific areas to focus their efforts. Study satellite imagery and topographic maps to identify potential hunting hotspots. Google Earth also provides useful satellite and topographic information, which you can put to use by utilizing these tips.
28 | Hunting & Fishing News
Filling the freezer or seeking a once in a lifetime trophy, know what you’re looking for from your hunt before you start stalking big game.
TARGET PANIC: WHAT TO DO & HOW TO BEAT IT (continued from page 26)
Arriving at full draw, anchor in and get comfortable with the location of your hand. For me, I like to split the first and second knuckle with my jaw bone between the two. My jaw bone sits along the inside of my index finger. This helps me to repeat my anchor point consistently. Next take a mental note of where the tension is in your drawing side of your body. Is it in the muscles of your forearm or your bicep? If so, transfer that weight to your rhomboid back muscle, which is much stronger and more capable of holding draw weight. The feeling was once explained to me as if I were trying to crush an orange between my shoulder blades. The front half stays steady as the back half shoulder blade squeezes, pulling the draw weight of the bow back. The muscles in your arm and hand should be relatively relaxed. The majority of any tension in your drawing half should sit right behind your shoulder blade. Get that feeling or sensation correct over and over again until you can do it without thinking. Try not to worry about firing a shot on your practice rope until you know you have the draw right. Now you are ready to execute a shot with your practice rope. Come to full draw as smoothly as you would with your own bow and focus on building the holding tension directly behind your shoulder blade. Find your anchor point and settle in. Focus on the back half of your body and how it feels to be correctly at full draw. Now lay the other three fingers on the release gently with very little pressure. Pull through now with your back muscles steadily, relaxing your hand as you pull. If you were to look back at your bow arm as you pull with your back muscles
you should see that it comes back at a natural angle behind you, not in a straight line as you may have assumed. You may feel the tension transfer out of your holding index finger as you pull with your shoulder blade. Your release hand/fingers should not move. It should be a transfer of tension from the weight holding index finger as it relaxes out of the release as your back muscles pull through. Sounds complicated, but once you practice it, you will be able to replicate it again and again. It will soon become second nature. If you do not want to switch to a hinge style release, the same process can be accomplished with your index finger release, but with a subtle change in the way you likely have it set up. Most archers have their release trigger set up in a position similar to a trigger on a rifle with the trigger sitting near the tip of the finger or right in the first knuckle — shorten that up. Adjust the overall length so that the trigger is sitting deeper in the second knuckle. Wrap your finger around the trigger and instead of activating it by moving your finger, just rest your finger on the release, relax the hand and pull through with your back muscles as described in the previous paragraph. Once you have the described method down continue to practice it with your release rope for a minimum of two solid weeks. Resist the temptation to pick your bow back up.
Target panic is a result of the connection between the target, your sight, your eye and the body’s response to punch the trigger. You need to eliminate the connection of immediately firing a release based on what the eye sees. (continued on page 30)
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TARGET PANIC: WHAT TO DO & HOW TO BEAT IT (continued from page 29)
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BLANK BALE PRACTICE
After a couple weeks of practicing with your release rope it is time to pick up your bow again. Before you pick it up, take the sight off of your bow and the target off of the bale before you get started. Removing the sight and target will allow you to shoot your bow without thinking about aiming. Stand close to the bale, draw your bow and anchor. Close your eyes, focusing only on the shot process and allow the shot to happen. Repeat this daily as you would a normal practice session. Shoot enough that you build the habit, but not so much that you become fatigued. Practice in this manner for another two weeks. After you feel like you have developed good habits put your sight back on your bow, but still shoot at a blank bale. Once again stand close to the blank bale and come to full draw. Settle in, close your eyes and this time imagine your sight pin floating directly over the X on a target and execute a shot. Repeat this over and over during your practice sessions for at least another week. On week six, plan to put a target face back on your bale. Standing approximately 5 yards from your target and begin staring at the X you plan to shoot. While continuing to stare at the X come to full draw, settle in and bring the peep and sight pin into alignment. Remain focused on the X. Allow the pin to float directly over the X for six to eight seconds before letting down your draw. Repeat this step over and over, never releasing an arrow. Once you are able to allow your pin to consistently float over the X you can move back to 10 yards and repeat the process. After 10 yards, move back to 20 and repeat. These sessions will retrain you to be ok with the pin floating over the X and will allow you to get comfortable with the pin sitting there without having to make a shot go off. This step is critical in combating target panic. During this week you should also continue to practice with your release aid and your rope. Finally, on the seventh week you can begin to execute actual shots. I like to start out shooting a blank bale with five to 10 arrows with my eyes closed. Again, focus on the shot and allow it to go off correctly and smoothly. After those warm-up shots, put a target face on your bale and, at close range, draw your bow. Settle into your anchor point, focus on the X, allow your pin to float over the X and execute a shot. Take a minute to note how you are feeling. Anytime you feel like old habitats are creeping back, make sure to take a step back in the process and start over. After a few days of shooting from close range you should feel confident to move back to 10 yards and then 20. This is the last step in the process. Completing these steps should put you well on your way to improving your scores and enjoying archery again. I still like to start and end practice sessions with shooting a few blank bale arrows just to reaffirm what proper execution feels like. Another great tactic is to follow this close range string practice method. Good luck and good shooting this year.
30 | Hunting & Fishing News
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A THREE-TAG MOOSE STORY By Tom Cooper
1997
1997 was my turn. We scouted even more, emphasizing the better locations identified the previous year with Bill. The rut had started and we were prepared; now we were the proud owners of a real cow moose call (versus the coffee can and string used the first year). Bill definitely wanted to participate if work allowed, so opening day we were both in the woods well before daylight. On the way to our priority location, and still dark, we spotted a cow and calf in a moonlit meadow, but we didn’t see a bull. Because we knew the moose rut had started, we hoped to use our new cow moose call. Anyway, we parked at the head of the drainage where Bill shot his moose in 1996. We hiked the full length of the “moosey” portion of the drainage, without seeing any moose. Next, we climbed a ridge just east of
Author Tom Cooper and his brother Bill (right) with Bill’s moose (1996) Photo credit: Tom Cooper
his is a story about three moose in four years. No, I didn’t T shoot three moose in four years; just one of the three was mine. My brother, Bill drew the first tag in 1996. I drew
the second tag in 1997, and my son, Gary, drew the third tag in 1999. Undoubtedly, some readers weren’t born yet and might presume tags were more readily available way back in the 1990’s. However, successful drawings for our district in those days were right at 3 percent, or 3 tags and most years approximately 100 hunters would apply. By comparison, 2018’s success rate was 2 percent. The number of applicants was still around 100, only 2 permits were available. Back in the 90’s, I was the fortunate one, because I participated in all three hunts. So much for background, let’s tell the three-tag story.
1996
First up was Bill. Together we learned a lot about moose that first year. Of course we spent considerable time doing the normal hunting preparations: scouting, shooting, and hiking a lot. What we had to learn about was moose, particularly mountain moose: 1) where do mountain moose hang out? 2) what do mountain moose eat? 3) what sounds do moose make? and 4) when is the moose breeding season? During our scouting, we found moose consistently in wet areas, though not necessarily lakes or ponds, because there aren’t many in the mountains where we hunt; no rivers either. The streams are mostly rocky and steep. However, the area around Helena includes a lot of old mining activity, more specifically many overgrown dams. Upstream from these dirt or sand dams, you typically find a flat or a meadow as a result of the silt that filled behind the dams. These were the most obvious moose hangouts. We came to understand mountain moose like willows, and on occasion the tender new growth of other deciduous trees and stream-side brush. In many cases, these meadows are filled with willows. If you find a mountain meadow that isn’t, it’s not a moose hangout (cross it off your list). So, back to Bill and 1996. We spotted a young bull, maybe a three or four year-old, opening day. Bill watched him for several minutes, but decided to pass. While scouting, I had seen a slightly larger bull a week earlier and Bill wanted to spend some time looking for him. However, we didn’t see another moose the rest of that day or Sunday. Two weeks later, Bill returned. We saw one cow and calf on Saturday. On Sunday, sometime between legal shooting light and sunrise, we saw our three-four year-old again. This time Bill did not hesitate. Shooting twice off-hand, the bull was his. We positioned the vehicle just over 100 yards from his moose and used a cable to drag him out of the wet area. Three hours later, we had him dressed out and loaded.
32 | Hunting & Fishing News
Author Tom Cooper (left) and his brother Bill with author’s moose (1997) Photo credit: Tom Cooper
our drainage, because I had observed a small bull bedded up there during the pre-season. However, we didn’t see any moose or fresh sign. My son was scheduled to play a youth football game, starting at noon, and we discussed attending if we didn’t find moose or sign causing us to keep hunting. We decided to head towards home, but take a short hike into the timber just above where we saw the cow and calf in the moonlight. Bill dropped me off at the head of the draw, and continued downstream about a quarter mile. We decided he should set up there and blow the cow call frequently. I hadn’t walked 250 yards before spotting a black patch that required a quick binocular check. It was a cow moose, but there was the head of a bull looking over her back. Moving just a few yards for a clear lane, I dropped to one knee, against a large pine, and waited. In a couple of minutes, I heard Bill’s best moaning cow moose call. The bull turned his head in that direction, but did not take a step. Over the next 10 minutes, Bill’s calls made the bull turn his head a couple more times. Following one more call, the bull started to take a step, bumped the cow, and she walked away from him. Now he was looking at me, straight on, but at 60 yards I knew it was my opportunity. With the shot, the bull was down. He was almost a twin of the one Bill tagged in 1996. I remembered seeing him very quickly one morning while scouting; he was the largest bull I spotted during the pre-season. At Bill’s suggestion (one I could not pass on), I went to the football game and left him processing the moose, separating shoulders and hams for packing to the vehicle. Long story short, I was on time for the game, Gary’s team won. Afterward I returned to Bill and the moose. We took a few pictures, loaded the moose quarters, and headed home.
1999
At this point in Gary’s hunting career, his only kill was a mule deer buck, so a moose hunt was a pretty big deal. Of course to some degree it conflicted with his being a high school freshman. I scouted (a lot) and sighted one very large, mature bull, a yearling, and young bull (probably 2-3 years old). On opening weekend Gary had a football game on Saturday, so no hunt. On Sunday, we parked at the head of our favorite drainage and hiked downstream. It was still pretty dark when we heard the continuous grunting of a bull moose. While we couldn’t see him in the willow brush, obviously we knew he was there. Hiking slowly through the brush, we just saw a bit of black as it moved into the timber. We followed, caught up, and saw a cow standing broadside with a bull on the far side, its head over her back and still grunting. Gary asked what we should do next. I said I wasn’t exactly sure, but suggested if the bull decided to “boink” the cow, Gary should wait until they were finished, before shooting. Gary started laughing, but neither moose thought it was funny and both left. We followed but didn’t see them again. The next Saturday, there was another football game. On Sunday, using the same plan, we started hiking downstream just before legal shooting light. About a quarter-mile down the canyon, we spotted the 2-3 year old bull in a grassy meadow. Gary leaned on a close tree for a steady shot. Bang, the bull whirled and disappeared in the willows. I recommended we wait a couple minutes just to be sure. Almost immediately, we heard a repetitive screeching bleat. Gary asked what was happening. I told him it sounded like his bull was trying to die for him. Sure enough when the meadow was quiet, we walked up to his bull. After a hike to the truck, we used a cable to pull him closer to the road. We butchered him on the ground using the no-gut approach becoming popular in Montana. Three hours later, we were on our way home.
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Author, Tom Cooper with Gary (right) and Gary’s moose (1999) Photo credit: Tom Cooper
Lessons Learned
Ok, if you do it three times, you’re bound to learn a few things about moose hunting. First, the traditional hunting methods used for deer and elk apply: scout a lot and review maps for your area, practice a lot after deciding on a weapon and ammunition, and get in shape. While mountain moose generally live and feed in wet, flat, and willowy areas, a mountain moose hunter has to be prepared to start at higher elevations and still climb mountains. Second, find a cow call and use it; simply put, it works. Finally, involve as many friends and family as possible, because more folks can scout more ground, and assist with moose recovery.
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PREDATION CHANGES IN THE WEST By Jake Horton Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
ver the past few decades through protection and O intervention, the number of big game predators, including bears, wolves and mountain lions has increased
across the western United States. Grizzlies were put under protection orders and their population has grown along with their home range. Wolves were reintroduced into Yellowstone and, now, are spreading throughout the western states and even moving into states like Colorado as of 2020. Predators are a very controversial subject when it comes to the overall ecosystem and coexisting with humans. Many people who oppose predator reintroduction are in the hunting community for various reasons. Animals that currently live in states that do not have a population of wolves or grizzly bears do not have the experience of how to allude to them effectively. For decades, some states have only had hunters as predators to control the population of various species of ungulates. Hunters are easy to manage since the department of wildlife for a prospective state tracks license sales, harvest statistics and animal populations year after year. They use this data to determine the number of licenses for the next year and increase or lower that number, depending upon animal populations. They do this to optimize the habitat of each species in order for the animals living there to have the best life and prevent disease and starvation.
I am not here to argue the reintroduction of apex predators into the ecosystem one way or another; however, the facts show that there is an increase of wolves and grizzly bear numbers in our ecosystem. When their home range expands, it does change the way that the other animals behave and how we hunt them. Here are some interesting things to think about when hunting in the ever-changing predator habitat in the West.
Information is key
Hunting in predator country means different things depending on which predators are present. The first thing that anyone should do in regards to this subject is some basic research. It is important to know what predators are in your prospective hunting zone and how you will or will not interact with them.
34 | Hunting & Fishing News
For example, if you are hunting in the ever-expanding grizzly country of Wyoming, Idaho or Montana, what must you do to be prepared prior and while you are hunting? Something you might want to understand is how to use bear spray appropriately or how to manage your camp. Something as simple as understanding the best way to hang your food in a tree to keep bears from getting into it might keep you from having problems. Once you have determined what predators are there and learned about them you will be much more prepared for your hunt. While maps, internet information and local biologists may help you determine whether populations are high or low, I always use my boots on the ground experience. When hunting, I always keep an eye out for scat and tracks that belong to predators. The more you understand what else is out there hunting should help you to make better decisions. For example, if you put a deer on the ground, you may not want to leave it overnight in wolf country because the wolves will find it and eat it or, if you do leave it, you might want to use caution coming in the next morning in bear country. Understanding what you are looking for and more about the predators that live there should make you more comfortable because you will do things the safe way.
Animals act differently in high predator concentration
The behavior of ungulates like deer and elk can be vastly different in places depending on whether or not they deal with year-round predation. Some of the experiences I have had show that instincts for survival can often trump instincts for breeding, bedding or eating. Elk in areas with high wolf or grizzly bear populations may be less likely to bugle during the rut as an instinctual way to not give away their position to predators. Deer or elk might be extremely skittish in the open or be less susceptible to a stalk if they are constantly alluding stalking wolves or lions. They may bed in different locations daily and not create habitual travel routines to avoid predators figuring them out. By understanding the densities of wolves and grizzly bears in a certain area, it will help explain why animals may act differently in the mountains of Idaho than they do in the mountains of Arizona where these predators are not prevalent in the wild.
Adapt and overcome
After you understand which predators are present and how animals change their behavior based upon that, it is your responsibility as a hunter (who wishes to be successful) to adapt to those changes and overcome the obstacles predators cause. In high predator concentrated areas, sitting on travel corridors, pinch points or calling lightly maybe just the changes needed to be successful. Unless something drastically changes in our culture, the habitat for predators will continue to be expanded. Year after year, more and more people seem to want them to inhabit the same terrain they did centuries ago. Eventually, hunters will need to learn to adapt and change their techniques if they wish to be consistently successful. Overall, predators will always be a part of the wild. Understanding which predators live where you hunt, identifying changes in animal behavior, and adapting and overcoming the obstacles predators cause will make you a better hunter. Whether you support the introduction and expansion of these apex predators or not, it is still happening naturally today. Bears, wolves and other major predators are still breeding and searching far and wide for food. Respecting them and understanding that they were occupying the West for thousands of years before most of our ancestors ever stepped foot in North America is important. You don’t have to like them, but it is vital that you understand them if you are going to hunt in their backyards successfully this year and for years to come.
Gone In 60 Seconds: Beginning Elk Hunting Tips To Make Your First Shot Count (continued from page 23)
RANGE PREPARATION
The range is the place to fine-tune a rifle’s zero at 100 or 200 yards and find out what ammo it likes best. An elk hunter should be able to consistently shoot one-minute-of-angle groups out to four hundred yards before they head out into the field. After finalizing ammunition selection and dialing in a zero many hunters pack up their gear and head home. However, this is where the important shooting begins. Practice shooting different scenarios, from a variety of positions and rests. Hunting guides frequently lament that their clients only practice shooting from a bench which leads to many missed opportunities when there are no benches to be found in the elk woods. A hunter should be comfortable shooting in the prone, seated, kneeling and free-standing positions to prepare for real-life situations. It’s also important to utilize different rests for your rifle, whether you’re using a bipod or your pack — get comfortable with both. Practice shooting with an elevated heart-rate-do 15 jumping jacks and then get behind your weapon and practice regulating your breathing. This drill is the closest replication to the state of your heart when an elk is in your sights, and adrenaline is flooding your veins; you’ll be surprised just how much your reticle is jumping with your heart rate. Elk are tough animals and it often takes more than one shot to truly knock them down, which is why it’s important to practice racking a new round in the chamber without picking your head up off that rifle. Once you fire, immediately realign your sights on the elk and chamber a new round in case you need it.
Hitting the range is for more than just getting your zero. Try different shooting positions, and make sure you experiment while shooting with an elevated heart rate.
FIELD PREPARATION
Consider this a test run — gear up as if it’s opening morning and head to a safe shooting area. The first time someone wears their pack and slings their rifle over their shoulder should be long before elk season begins. Take a partner along and have them pick a rock, tree etc. in the distance, and pretend it’s an elk...It’s now your job to find the elk dummy with your binos, take your rifle off your shoulder, pick a shooting position, build a rest, and chamber a round. Whether you want to live fire on the rock or use snap caps for this drill will be determined by the safety of the region in which you are training. You’ll be surprised how much more fluid you will be getting into position when hunting season begins by playing this game. Familiarize yourself with your scope’s reticle here as well; while hiking, keeping an optic on low power increases the optics field of view which helps you find the animal quickly, especially when elk are closer than you expect. (continued on page 36)
BLACK BUTTE COPPER PERMITTED. PROTECTED. COMMITTED TO DOING IT RIGHT.
www.blackbuttecopper.com Hunting & Fishing News | 35
Record Count Of Bighorn Sheep Gone In 60 Seconds: Beginning Elk Hunting North Dakota Game and Fish
T
he North Dakota Game and Fish Department’s 2020 bighorn sheep survey, completed by recounting lambs in March, revealed a record 322 bighorn sheep in western North Dakota, up 11% from 2019 and 13% above the five-year average. The count surpassed the previous record of 313 bighorns in 2008. Altogether, biologists counted 97 rams, 170 ewes and 55 lambs. Not included are approximately 40 bighorn sheep in the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park and bighorns recently introduced to the Fort Berthold Indian Reservation. Big game biologist Brett Wiedmann was pleased to see an increase in the survey for the third consecutive year. “The increase in the 2020 count reflects lessening effects of bacterial pneumonia that was detected in 2014,” Wiedmann said. The northern badlands population increased 13% from 2019 and was the highest count on record. The southern badlands population declined again to the lowest level since 1999. “We were encouraged to see the count of adult rams increase after declining the last four years, and adult ewes were at record numbers,” Wiedmann said. “Most encouraging was a record lamb count corresponding with a record recruitment rate.” Game and Fish Department biologists count and classify all bighorn sheep in late summer, and then recount lambs the following March as they approach one year of age to determine recruitment... There are currently more than 400 bighorn sheep among populations managed by the North Dakota Game and Fish Department, the National Park Service and the Three Affiliated Tribes Fish and Wildlife Division. Wiedmann said the last confirmed native bighorn sheep in North Dakota was killed in 1905, and Theodore Roosevelt reported that bighorns were scarce by the time he hunted them during the 1880s...
Tips To Make Your First Shot Count (continued from page 35)
The range can get your rifle dialed, but practice in the field can make sure you get the experience you need to shoot with confidence.
This is also a good opportunity to keep in mind your optic’s focal plane if you plan on using windage hashmarks or a bullet-drop-compensating reticle. Second focal plane reticles require that the magnification is at a certain power to shoot accurately; keep this in mind while practicing. Many elk have lived to fight another day due to this simple mistake... If you’re carrying a tripod, practice utilizing the tripod as a rifle rest by finding points of contact to stabilize your shot. You can also carry an adapter that allows you to quickly connect your rifle to the top of the tripod for added stability on the go. Prepare for gear to break or God-forbid be left behind in the truck by using what you have in your pack as a trial run for jimmy-rigged rests on the go. Get creative and get off the ground —many hunters only practice with their bipod or pack in the prone position; however, deep snow or tall grass quickly makes this an impossible task. Practice using crisscrossed trekking poles, your tripod, a leaning tree, or an elevated rock. You’ll learn quickly what positions are stable before it comes time to make a shot. When running through these drills, find the most difficult shooting positions from which to build a practice shot. Get comfortable being uncomfortable, controlling your heart rate, and keeping your target in your sights long after you’ve fired your first shot. Then you won’t have to think about the opportunity that was gone in less than 60 seconds.
GET THE B&C PLATE AND SUPPORT YOUR HUNTING HERITAGE!
Select Boone and Crockett Club’s license plate the next time you register or renew a vehicle in Montana and help us preserve your hunting heritage for future generations, maintain big-game records, promote hunting ethics, and continue our youth conservation and hunting education programs on Montana’s Rocky Mountain Front. B&C receives a $20 sponsor fee for each plate.
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8 Bucket List Trout Hatches
(continued from page 19) GREEN DRAKE Another giant mayfly, Green Drakes are a special hatch that can turn a trout river on fire in an instant. The hatch is not reliable by any means so prepare to spend some time on the water in order to catch the best flurries of action. It’s a summer hatch but the big bugs prefer high humidity days to keep their oversized wings hydrated. The best action often comes during days with a light summer rain shower. You will find the bugs dispersed throughout the Rocky Mountains, Pennsylvania and into Arkansas on famous waters like the White River. TRICOS The tiny bugs can create some of the biggest hatches of the year and tricos are a favorite for technical fly anglers. The tiny black specs hatch in abundance during the late summer and they love slow moving sections of river. The trout will line up to selectively sip on the individuals and clusters of insects. Bring your A-game because presentation is absolutely critical. It’s not uncommon to find pods of trout sitting in mere inches of flatwater where the tricos congregate. CICADAS They don’t come every year but when the plague of cicadas hatch, trout go wild. Cicadas are terrestrial and depending on the variety, they will only hatch every 17 years. The Green River in Utah is famous for having cicada hatches and the area hosts a diverse variety of cicada broods. Each variety of brood has a different life cycle so you can expect a light hatch at the least and in some years, major hatches that have cicadas covering the water. Zach Lazzari is a fly fishing guide and an outdoor writer based in Montana. Zach has fished and guided in Alaska, Colorado and Patagonia. Zach is also the blogger behind The Busted Oarlock.
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Wild Game Recipe: Loco Moco SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com
Photo courtesy SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com
e recently tried Loco Moco, and now we’re hooked. W This recipe was originally created in the 1940s, when some boys dining at the Lincoln Grill in Hilo, Hawaii,
asked the waitress to serve them a dish they could afford. They threw out the idea of rice, beef (wild game) and gravy. And the rest is history. We hope that you enjoy the wild game version of Loco Moco as much as we did. INGREDIENTS 2 cups white rice uncooked 1 – tbsp flour 2 cups water 1 tbsp tamari sauce 1 lb ground wild game 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp kosher salt 2 tsp olive oil 1 tbsp black pepper 2 green onions sliced 1 – 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil 4 large eggs 1 1/2 cup broth INSTRUCTIONS Rinse the rice under cool water. Place the rinsed rice and 2 cups water in a rice cooker and cook. Shape the ground wild game into four patties. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Heat olive oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the patties. Sear for 3-4 minutes. Flip. Cook for 4 more minutes. Remove the patties, cover and let rest. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add 1 tbsp flour to begin with to the skillet. Cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring continuously. Add 1/2 cup broth to the skillet, and stir to combine. Add the remaining broth and soy tamari. Cook until thickened, about 5 minutes. Whisk in butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add additional flour as needed. In another skillet, heat 2 teaspoons olive oil over medium-high high. Crack the eggs into the pan and fry for 3-4 minutes, until the whites are cooked through. The yolks should remain loose. Place a large round spoonful of rice onto the plate. Place a cooked patty on top of the rice. Spoon on a ladle of gravy. Top with a cooked egg, and garnish with green onions. Enjoy your Loco Moco!
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38 | Hunting & Fishing News
If you would like additional information on hunting opportunities available with SNS Outfitter & Guides, please contact us here https://huntwyo.com/contact or give us a call at 307-266-4229.
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