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GOING DEEP IS NOT WORKING ANYMORE By Jake Horton Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
hen people talk about elk and deer hunting, especially W during archery season, it is very common to hear about the strategy of going deep to get away from people in order
to find better hunting. Five to 10 years ago, hunters who hiked in over three miles would find bugling bulls and unpressured elk and deer; however, nowadays that is not the case. More and more, hunters are pushing their body to the max during the offseason, training in order to go deeper into the backcountry only to be disappointed when they reach the back of the basin and find other hunters who had the same thought process. Below are four strategies to get you in deep differently, which will hopefully result in running into fewer people and more game.
Pressured elk and deer behavior
First and foremost, it is important to understand that unless you are hunting a private ranch or limited tag, you are hunting pressured elk and deer that do not behave the same as unpressured animals. Ultimately, the goal of every elk and deer hunter is to find elk or deer and then attempt to harvest them. During the summer days, these animals can and do live wherever they can stay cool in cover, find food and find water. Sometimes this is one mile or less from a trailhead or road, but sometimes it is farther. During the first week of archery season, as hunting activity increases, elk and deer are pushed further and further from the highest concentration of hunters.
4| Hunting & Fishing News
Photo credit Brady Miller
They go to areas of sanctuary where they feel safe from hunters. Finding these temporary sanctuaries is every hunter’s goal because in a sanctuary is more game and better odds. However, these sanctuaries can change and elk and deer can leave as hunters or predators figure out where they are. They can also come back in a day or two so do not be afraid to hunt a good spot multiple days.
Strategy 1: Avoid using trailheads
In order to get into more elk and deer, it is important to think differently than the average hunter. Often, we get stuck inside the box thinking, “Let’s get to the trailhead and we can figure it out from there depending on how many rigs are there.” Once we arrive and see four or five trucks, we become disappointed and are out of time so we hike in the same trail as everyone to a point picked out and marked on a GPS. Sure, sometimes we find elk or deer and try to make a move to kill one, but more often than not,
another hunter is doing the same thing as you — even when you are four to five miles deep on the trail. I have had great luck looking at the maps and satellites differently and finding and hunting a ridge or valley on the way to the trailhead that looks promising. In general, most people drive right by spots like these on the way to the parking lot. Often, these spots require a vertical ascent right off the bat or a creek crossing, which most people are not looking to do. Trails are made for convenience, but elk and deer don’t stay in places that are convenient for hunters so don’t use a trailhead unless you have a plan to get away from people.
Strategy 2: The back of basins are not the sanctuary anymore
In prior years, we used to have a lot of luck finding a trail that took us four or five miles to the back of a basin, finding elk and deer pressed up against the highest peak on the lookout for hunters coming up the valley or out the ridge. This was common because most hunters who were not on horseback only wanted to hike in one to two miles max, which meant going past them used to give you better opportunity. What I am often seeing now is that when I get back there, elk and deer are gone because I am not the only one willing to go that deep anymore. This baffled me the first dozen times because, after hiking miles to a spot, I expected to see at least one elk or small buck. I am doing the work, right? Why wouldn’t I see one? The answer is that a lot of people are catching the bug and are willing to work for elk and mule deer so it’s up to you to think differently. While hiking the four to five-mile valley trail, did you see any side basins that were difficult to access? If so, one of those is probably holding the elk or deer that normally live in that basin. This is the middle ground where hunters are finding more success than before. For a successful middle ground hunt, an elk or deer needs to feel safe, which typically means it is not super easy for you to access. If it looks hard to get to and is two to three miles deep it probably is holding some elk or deer.
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Strategy 3: No trails, no problem
Trails can help you cruise four to five miles deep in a few hours, but that goes for other hunters, too. You know who doesn’t need our trails? Elk and deer don’t need them! Find basins that don’t have trails and you may find yourself in less pressured elk and deer territory and with fewer horseback hunters. Plan extra time to hike in because bushwhacking can take a long time and can be tiring. Most people do not enjoy bushwhacking, which is why you may find yourself alone. Try to remember that the nastier it is, the more blowdown you have to cross and the steeper the climb into that basin generally equates to fewer hunters wanting to hike in. It could also mean that a true bugling or rutting experience is awaiting you in that sanctuary basin. I also find high success looking at the basins on the other side of the ridge from my truck. Something about hiking over the top and dropping in a new basin on the other side has gotten me on numerous bulls and put me on top of some great bucks.
Strategy 4: Think outside of the box
Thinking outside of the box will allow you to be a better hunter overall in today’s over-the-counter (OTC) hunting experience we tend to participate in. Often, I find myself marking elk or deer spots on maps and then crossing them off because if I found them in a short amount of time, which means that other people can, too. Then, I look for the spots that pressured elk and deer might go and decide if they are worth checking out. Thinking outside the box allows me to look at obstacles as pathways. For example, hunting near rivers is good because it provides a water source for elk and deer. Find the spots that are hard to cross and bring in a canoe or raft to help you get back and forth. (continued on page 38)
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How To Hunt Deer On 30 Acres By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com
an email from a guy who landed permission to hunt a Ibiggot 30-acre block of woods. He had 2 questions. Is that spot enough to kill a good buck, and if so how should he hunt
it? First, heck yeah, 30 acres or even 20 is big enough. Monsters are shot in small habitats like that every year. On any new property, you’ve got to find out what kind of terrain and vegetation you’re dealing with. Right now is time to check the property. Spend a day and walk every inch of it; carry an aerial map or consult Google Earth as you go for reference. Walk and look for funnels, edges, little ridges etc. where deer will move onto and off the land. Don’t worry if you spook some deer, they will be back. Check the treetops for green acorns. When the nuts start falling, deer will find them, so look for an afternoon stand site close by. While the timber on the 30 provides some cover, the more thickets in there the better. If the whole place turns out to be basically one big thicket that is okay, it will be a great place for morning hunting, especially if there are crop fields nearby. Set out at least 2 cameras on trail or funnels on either end of the 30, and check it regularly to get an idea not only of the bucks there, but also deer travel patterns.
Photos courtesy Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog
A big key to hunting 30 is not to push deer out when you go in. Look for easy, quiet, downwind routes that won’t take you busting through thick cover where deer bed. Plan your in and out routes to skirt spots where deer will likely be. My favorite stand on a small spot is off-wind of a super trail on a ridge or near a creek that cuts through the entire property. Watch the main highway enough and you will see some bucks. Hunt in early bow season, but don’t overdo it and burn out the 30. The November rut is the best time to kill a monster. Also, you have a great opportunity when gun season opens later this fall. Climb into your best stand on the 30 and sit all day. When other guys swarm and shoot on lands all around, some bucks will flee to your little spot, especially if it’s thick. I guarantee that without even seeing the land.
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How To STILL-HUNT
A BUCK DEER
By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com
ne of my hunting mentors of the 1990s was O Jack Atcheson Sr., a renowned hunting consultant and taxidermist from Montana who has hunted on 5 continents
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huntingfishingnews@yahoo.com www.huntingfishingnews.net The entire contents is © 2020, all rights reserved. May not be reproduced without prior consent. The material and information printed is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. Nor does this material necessarily express the views of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. All photo & editorial submissions become the property of Big Sky Outdoor News & Adventure, Inc. to use or not use at their discretion. Volume 17 Issue 5 Cover Photo: ttoomm25|depositphotos.com
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and shot as many head of game as any man on earth, from Cape buffalo to elk to sheep to all the varieties of North American deer, and some big ones. One time on a wilderness backpack hunt for mule deer, Jack told me we were going to still-hunt and stalk the entire week, and he was going to teach me how to do it. “I’ve been hunting deer for 25 years,” I reminded him with a smirk. “Yeah, but this week you’re gonna learn how to do it right.” On day one, we split apart about a half-mile and still-hunted west toward our landmark, a towering crag. I arrived in an hour, sat on a log and waited. Two hours later in creeped Jack. “See anything?’ I asked. “Two bucks, one a big 4-point, and a small herd of elk,” he replied. “You?” He asked that with a sly grin. I had jumped one doe, and I got Jack’s message loud and clear. For the next 5 days we hunted side by side, creeping up mountains and down drainages, stopping often to scan wide with our eyes and glass tighter into the cover with binoculars. Every 100 yards or so, we’d stop, turn, creep back 50 yards and re-scan the terrain where we had just come from. On the last day, that is how I found this buck with Jack and shot it. “Every person I’ve ever hunted with, and there have been many hundreds over the years, moves too fast and never looks back,” Photo courtesy Mike Hanback bigdeerblog.com Jack told me. “Still-hunt as slowly as you can for 50 yards, and then slow down some more for the next 25 to 50. Stop often, always beside a tree that you can use as a rifle rest if you need it. Every once in a while, fishhook back, get a little elevation and look where you came from. You’ll see and shoot a lot more bucks that way.”
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Elk Calling Strategies For The Rut By Zach Lazzari
Hunting Gear Outfitters www.huntinggearoutfitters.com
alling elk is a strategic game that requires calling skills, C knowledge of local elk behavior and a plan of attack that often forms and fluidly changes in the heat of the moment.
Even the best calls and approaches often fall short. Elk are crafty and difficult to pinpoint and manipulate with calls. However, when it all comes together, these moments are pure magic. There are few things in hunting as exciting as a close range shot opportunity at a bull elk. Here are a few different elk calling strategies to help you get started… PRESSURED VS UNPRESSURED ELK The difference between pressured and unpressured elk is significant. Elk that see very few hunters are often more responsive to calls and the element of other callers working the same herds is not an issue. That doesn’t mean pressured elk are not responsive to calls. But they are certainly more wary and adaptive to the calls of hunters. Be extra considerate of the circumstances surrounding the hunt and look for other hunters and vehicles at trailheads to assess pressure. If you are not alone on the mountain, consider a more passive approach using glassing, cow calls and silent stalks rather than aggressive bugles. It’s not uncommon in pressured areas for hunters to return each other’s bugles by accident. SINGLE PERSON PASSIVE APPROACH When you’re hunting solo on public land with other hunters in the area, consider a passive approach. Drive around the area at night and throw out an occasional bugle as a locating methodology. Pressured elk still bugle and will do so heavily at night during the rut. After locating an active area, hike the morning and pay special attention to wind while moving slowly with intermittent cow calls. You know elk are in the area and this passive game is highly effective. THE CHALLENGER APPROACH Some bulls simply can’t turn down a challenge from outside suitors. The bulls have their harem intact and a challenger presents a risk to their breeding rights. Bugle aggressively and wait for the bull to return the call. After a round or two, cut off the bull’s call. This will get him fired up. Be aggressive in your movements as well. Break sticks and branches to sound like a bull crashing through the forest. Ideally, the bull will move to you. But in some cases, making a move to close the distance is required.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 9
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10 TIPS TO UP YOUR
GLASSING GAME By Mark Boardman Vortex Optics www.vortexoptics.com
s humans, aside from our big brains, we rely on our eyes A for most of our predatory success. Want to exponentially increase opportunities in the field? It’s time to get glassing. 1. Open up – (not emotionally): Glass openings from afar and before you enter them. They are great places to spot game, and nothing is more frustrating than spooking your quarry when it’s within striking distance. Game gravitates to open areas for a variety of reasons. An opening can be as big as a clear cut or agriculture field and as small as a meadow in the timber. For a turkey, utilizing these spaces might be food-related, or to strut and display. For a deer, the browse may be lush and diverse. Openings have hard edges. They are focal points where multiple habitats converge - and so do the animals that live there... 2. Brace yourself: If you’re not using a tripod, there’s a few things you can do to stabilize binoculars during hand-held glassing sessions. Turning the brim of your ball cap into a hand hold will stabilize your view and help eliminate arm fatigue. Take a seat. This will get you way more stable than standing, as well as gets you in an optimal position to brace your elbows on top of your legs. If terrain or brush dictates standing, tuck your elbows into your chest. 3. Three legs are better: Few things will make you a better glasser than a tripod. And if you’re already carrying one for your spotting scope, integrating a binocular tripod-adapter adds virtually zero weight to your kit. A tripod (preferably with a pan-head) better allows you to methodically evaluate expansive country, cuts muscle fatigue considerably, makes spotting subtle movement much easier, and lets you stay on a subject once found. You can even pull your head out
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Need some steadier hands to glass better? Remember to brace yourself whenever possible to eliminate handshake. Photo courtesy Vortex Optics
of your glass to relax for a second, talk your buddy into what you’ve found, get visual bearings on the landscape to plan a stalk all the while knowing when you dip your head back in, your subject will still be in or near your field of view. 4. Take what you learned reading - and stop: Ok, not completely. We read left-to-right, so make a point at times to scan from right-to-left. Admittedly, I find this hard to do. It just doesn’t feel natural –that’s why it works. It takes your brain off autopilot and forces you to see terrain and what may be hiding in it differently, with greater attention to detail. 5. We covered reading, so let’s talk math: Your glassing should have an order of operations. Hit high percentage spots first. When you begin glassing, start with spots known to hold game. After that, work from the inside out in hopes of finding animals closer in proximity to your location within shooting range, stalking range, or inclined to spook due to your presence. Early and late in the day when game is likely on the move, it’s good to give the extreme edges of the country you’re glassing a priority look. You may just catch an animal you want to go after just as it goes over the hill. (continued on page 33)
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3 Tips For Fall Streamer Fishing By Ryan McSparran Mystic Outdoors www.mysticoutdoors.com here’s no bad time to throw streamers. But fall might be the very best time. Big, predatory T trout are looking for easy meals as the weather begins to change. This time of year is a great opportunity to swing those big ugly flies in your box, and hang on for aggressive strikes. Photo credit Ryan McSparran When fly fishing with your favorite streamer patterns this fall, here are a few tips to help make your time more productive. GET YOUR FLY DOWN In order to fish your streamers most effectively, you need to be getting them down in the water column. This is especially challenging when fishing deep holes or in runs with a strong current. Whenever possible, have a streamer rod rigged and ready with a sinking fly line. Choose a sinking with an aggressive taper, one that is designed to cast streamers and other large flies. If given a choice between different sink rates, go with one that fits your home river or your most common fishing situation. Changing fly lines can be a pain, so if you’re on the river and don’t already have a sinking line rigged up, there’s a quick alternative. Quickly tie on a sinking leader like the VersiLeader from Rio. These sinking leaders come in a variety of sink rates to fit any river or situation. SWING AND THEN STRIP When fishing wide runs and large pools, I like to make a quartering downstream cast, allowing my fly to swing through. Keep your non-casting hand ready on the fly line for a quick strip set if you feel a strike. But don’t strip any line during the swing, as the current is usually moving the fly at a pretty quick pace. When your fly nears the bank and reaches the end of the drift, try slowly stripping the fly upstream along the bank. If you don’t get a strike on the swing, trout will often attack the fly on this upstream retrieve. This allows you to fish against those cut banks, where big browns love to wait for an ambush opportunity. DOUBLE STREAMERS Fall is streamer time. So, why not double down? Start by tying on a small or lightweight streamer like a Platte River Spider. Add about 18 inches of tippet to the shank of that hook and tie on a larger, heavy streamer. This big fly following a small fly can be a killer setup to swing through long runs and deeper pools. RECOMMENDED STREAMER RODS For any fall streamer fishing exploits, we love fishing the new Mystic JXP fly rod in a 9-foot 6-weight. Another popular streamer choice here among the Mystic crew is the M-Series 10’ 3” fly rods in either the 6-weight or the 7-weight.
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Fall Walleye By The Hour By Jason Mitchell Jason Mitchell Outdoors www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com
Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell
all walleye fishing is often heralded by anglers as one of F the best times of the year for good fishing. Plenty of big fish potential as females begin to put on egg mass. Fall patterns
are often drawn out and consistent. Compared to the spring, there are way fewer boats to compete against compared to the same fisheries after ice out. Compared to spring, I would also dare say that the patterns and locations also hold out longer. Yes, fall is a prime time if you love to walleye fish and target big fish. Many of the best bites however happen later in the fall. Depending on where you live, the prime fall patterns might set up in mid to late October with some of the absolute best fishing happening in November or even December. The best fishing often coincides with brutal weather conditions. I have joked that the coldest I have ever been in my life is in a boat in November. Where does that leave September? September is considered fall fishing but how fish set up in September is completely different than November. I would dare argue that early fall sees a lot more transition and change. Fish can be much more scattered especially before the turnover. There will be fish shallow and deep. Early fall fish can also move a lot where you can have a more difficult time putting consecutive days together in a row. September walleye fishing can be about locations but also about the process. Early fall seems more conductive for milk running good spots and simply covering water. Either by dunking into several spots through the day or big trolling passes. Grinding out one key location seems to burn us more because the fish are simply moving too much. Time management is crucial any time of the year but becomes magnified in the early fall when you simply must keep looking for fish. Even after you catch a few fish, you often have to keep looking as we often find that we don’t find the magic spots that hold a lot of fish rather a lot of spots that hold a few fish. This is a time of transition and your watch (time management) is as crucial of a piece of equipment as your sonar or map chip. Typically, you can put together a good day if you can average a fish per hour.
14| Hunting & Fishing News
Cover enough water, hit enough spots so that you can average a fish an hour. If you can average a fish per hour and then hit a window or spot where you crack two to four fish in an hour at least once or twice per day… the fish can add up to a good day. When fish are scattered all over which they often can be early in the fall, you simply must keep moving and grooving. Reading and understanding locations is crucial in the fall and this knowledge will help you catch more fish throughout the year…. Get as good as possible at quickly finding the spot on the spot. That key ten-yard piece of structure on a bigger piece of structure. Some anglers call this the money spot. When you are combing water, hit as many money spots as quickly as possible. Don’t worry about turning over every rock or fishing an entire piece of structure. Hit the key locations on each spot as this is a much faster way of hitting as many spots as possible. Will you sometimes miss fish with this aggressive approach? Sometimes but what I find is that if there are big fish or aggressive fish on a location, the big fish or aggressive fish will often occupy the premium real estate. In water deeper than twelve feet, we often won’t fish unless we see the right fish on our electronics. We truthfully spend more time driving around and looking versus fishing when running and gunning deeper structure. Use every tool at your disposal. Traditional 2D sonar is still excellent for marking fish below the boat on classic structure and I find that I can better determine the size of the fish. Down view is excellent over deep mud or rocks where it is difficult to get separation. Side imaging is great for finding clutter over open water or showing fish over large flats that are made up of small rock or sand. Fish on weeds however can be much more difficult if not impossible to mark with electronics unless the weeds are sporadic and the fish are laying in the open. What does a spot on the spot look like? That is a question we hear a lot and usually that premium X on the map is some irregularity. Might be a finger and inside cup on a point where there is a change in contour that coincides with a bottom change from sand to rock. Could be a patch of rock on a large sand flat that has scattered clumps of weed. Might be a trough or channel edge that has some irregular feature. Look at the big picture and then dissect the overall spot to find the high percentage spots. Usually, the bigger spots simply hold more fish so the spot on the spot that is part of a much bigger spot is a high batting average location. If there is one standby in September however that I keep falling back on, that standby would be shallow weed walleyes. If you can still find good lush stands of green weeds like cabbage or coontail, there are typically walleye around. I like weeds because weed patterns seem to stay consistent through early fall when everything else in that ecosystem is undergoing drastic change. Broad leaf pond weed or cabbage varieties are top of the list but dollar weed, pencil reeds, wild rice, and coontail all hold walleye at times. I also believe weeds hold in heat as well when the lake starts to cool in the fall. There is just something surprisingly consistent about weed patterns during early fall that make shallow weed patterns somewhat reliable. Weeds however can be difficult to fish and you just don’t roll into a weed location and figure out the intricacies of a weed spot in five minutes. Weeds take time to figure out come late summer and fall. You might have to map out the outside edge of the weed line. You might have to experiment with angles and lures to fish the top of the weed bed. Typically, with weeds and walleyes, we aren’t going into the weeds after fish like you would if you are bass fishing. We typically either fish the outside edge or the top edge. The open water on the edge is typically where we find walleye. Walleyes seem to cruise through these open lanes and move through these locations as they hunt. Walleyes seem to like gaps and lanes in weeds. Look for the gaps and lanes.
Large soft plastic swimbaits are an overall favorite for catching big fall walleyes in weeds because of the versatility. You can fish a swimbait over the top of the weeds. You can clip the outside edge and fish through some sporadic weed growth. Big profiles often seem to work best in the fall. There is an adage with fall walleye fishing to use larger baits and that does ring true. Typically, there is not as much forage but the forage has grown larger come fall so walleyes are used to keying into larger profiles. What you will also find especially when fishing the narrow slot of open water over the top of a weed bed is that fish that come up to hit a bait are typically aggressive. Violent strikes. The open water above a weed bed come early summer might be just a few feet or less and that can be difficult for some walleye anglers to wrap their heads around. You might be casting over ten or twelve feet of water and fishing the top couple of feet of the water column because the weeds grow up seven to eight feet off the bottom. The month of September is also a time when many of these weeds start to break down and die but find standing green weeds with good water circulation come late summer to early fall and there is a very high probability of walleyes. What makes this pattern a favorite is that these fish don’t move as much and are just more consistent. Manage your time this fall. Have a good milk run of locations to cycle through and dabble with some green weeds when many fish are transitioning. September walleye fishing can be inconsistent and sporadic. No doubt that the absolute best fall fishing is yet to come but there are some enjoyable opportunities to take advantage of as we wait. The best strategy I have found is taking a big picture view of time management with a micro view of analyzing key locations on a spot while falling back on weed fish when the pattern seems like there is no pattern.
Larger profiled soft plastic swimbaits are a great fall presentation to catch big walleyes. Fishing swimbaits over the top or outside edge of submerged weeds like cabbage or broadleaf pondweeds is consistently productive in early fall. Pictured top to bottom; a few of the author’s favorite soft plastic combos for fall weed walleye. Clam Pro Tackle Tungsten TG Jig paired with Salmo Walleye Shad for working outside deep edges. Kalins Weedless Jig with Salmo Walleye Shad for slow rolling over the top of weed flats. Northland Mimic Minnow for shallow to intermediate depth holes and open lanes in weed bed. Photo courtesy Jason Mitchell.
We often must approach the time period before the fall turnover with a completely different mindset but the fish can add up through the day to create good fishing opportunities.
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F
Photo courtesy Northland Fishing Tackle
all arrives in different places at different times, but when it gets to northern pike and musky country, anglers who like to chase these top-line predators know that the odds for getting bit are good, and chances are as good as they get for a trophy. If you like to catch pike and musky, now and for the next few weeks is a good time to do so. Here’s how you can get in on the action. We sometimes think of pike and musky as being very similar fish, and there certainly are similarities. One similarity is that the fish will generally be shallower in the spring and fall and deeper during the summer. The best lakes are often the deeper lakes that have oily baitfish such as tullibee, cisco and the like. In the summer the tullibee and cisco are in the deep water, usually suspended, and the predators hang out around them. These baitfish are fall spawners. They move shallow when Mother Nature tells them to do so, and the predators follow. My favorite fall spots are deep weedbeds and sand/pebble flats that are near deep water. The fish will be deeper in clear water, shallower in stained or windblown areas. Here’s something to consider. I was fishing with a friend a while back for muskies. It was autumn and we were on a very good musky lake. We had fished all day with minimal action. My friend watches the solunar tables very closely and said that a major period was coming up. He wanted to be on his best spot, a spot that we had fished earlier with no luck, when the major period arrived. We were, and it was crazy. In just a couple of hours we saw about a dozen muskies and hooked several. It pays to watch the solunar tables and be on your good spots during those periods. I prefer to cast for pike and muskies. Trolling works very well also, but when casting, you get to see the follows and you can confirm that there are fish in the area. There are lots of baits that will attract muskies and northern pike. Many, many fish every year are taken on hard baits like jerkbaits and crankbaits, but I almost always reach for a spinner first. I believe that an angler will get better hooksets with spinners. Also the ones that I use the most, Bird-Shot Bucktails and Bionic Bucktails, are easier to fish. Start with natural colors in clear water and brighter colors in stained water, but don’t hesitate to try the opposite. If you’re getting follows but no connections, do something else. There are rods that are designed specifically for these baits, but often I just use the flippin’ rod that I use to catch bass. Lew’s makes a heavy flippin’ rod that works well for bass or larger fish. 65 pound test braid provides outstanding hooksets and sensitivity. With fish as big as we’re after, you might think sensitivity wouldn’t be a factor, but it can be. You can detect a weed hanging on your bait, and with a sharp jerk you can clear it with the braid. Also, sometimes the fish will slash at the bait but miss. You’ll notice this with the braid and will be ready when the fish returns, which is almost right away if it’s interested in eating. With the braid and the heavy rod, back off a bit on the drag to prevent the hooks from pulling out. You’ll probably catch more bass, walleyes, or panfish in a day this time of year, but if your goal is to catch one of the biggest fish that swim in the lake, that would be a musky or pike, and now is a great time to get after them.
3 TECHNIQUES FOR FALL FISH Photo courtesy Northland Fishing Tackle
By Bob Jensen Northland Fishing Tackle www.northlandtackle.com
utumn is a wonderful time to go fishing for a good number of A reasons: There is less fishing pressure in most places, the scenery and wildlife watching can be outstanding, the
weather is generally very pleasant, and the catching can be fantastic. Most species of fish go on the bite in the fall and they can be taken by a number of techniques. But if you want to get bit, following are three techniques that are tops for walleyes, largemouth and smallmouth bass. The biggest walleyes I’ve ever caught have been caught in the fall, October and November. And the best days for numbers of walleyes were in the fall as well, October and November. We’ve caught’em on crankbaits at night and live-bait rigs during the day, but if I was limited to only one way to catch numbers of walleyes in the fall, it would be with a Fire-Ball® Jig/minnow combination. Rigs with minnows are outstanding in the right situation also, but jigs can be fished vertically in deep water or cast to walleyes in the shallows. Eighth ounce jigs are perhaps the size of jig used the most year ‘round, but in the fall, you need some in every size. In some lakes the walleyes will be shallow and a sixteenth ounce or eighth ounce size will be best, but in many lakes and rivers where the fish are deep or there’s current, a quarter ounce size will be the minimum. When you’re looking for numbers, a three or four inch minnow will be best, but on big fish water, go with a larger minnow. ...it’s the largemouth bass that keep me coming back, and it’s going to be a crankbait on the end of my line that I’m first going to show those largemouth at this time of year. In my mind, the best way to fish these bass is to find a deep weedline, position the boat a medium to long cast from it, and start throwing the crankbait. Most of the time I’ll start with a crankbait in a blue/chartreuse color, but natural colors are productive also. Long casts are good, so a 7 foot medium action casting rod teamed with a Speed Spool reel will be favored. The Speed Spool reel lets me work the bait quickly in search of active fish. Fluorocarbon in 15 pound test is very good for this tactic. It’s tough and doesn’t stretch too much. Back off a bit on the reel’s drag with this minimal-stretch line. Last idea: Kabetogama Lake...has the reputation of being a world-class walleye lake, and it is, but it’s also a world-class smallmouth lake in the fall, and drop-shot rigs are the way to catch those smallmouth. Actually there are several ways to catch’em, but a drop-shot is so good on Kab and everywhere else that smallmouth swim it’s become the go-to rig for many successful anglers. A drop-shot rig is constructed so the hook is above the sinker. There are lots of diagrams available that describe a drop-shot rig so much better than I can with words. Attach a drop shot half shell to the hook and use enough weight to maintain good bottom contact. In deep water fish vertically, in shallower water you can pitch the rig. Fish quickly until you find the smallmouth, then fish the area very thoroughly. If you catch one there will almost always be others nearby. There are so many more ways to catch fall fish, but the methods just highlighted will give you an outstanding opportunity to be successful in your fishing in the next few weeks. All you need to do is get on the water.
2020 FALL MACK DAYS
Sponsored by the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes and sanctioned by Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks
LAKE TROUT FISHING EVENT
on FLATHEAD LAKE September 8 th to November 15th Fish The Entire Lake
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Top ten angler prizes $800-$300-Fri-Sun-(18 best days of possible 30 days) Captains $250-(4 prizes),Smallest lake trout $250-(2 prizes),Largest lake trout $500 Top lady anglers $300, $200, $100. $100 -by total fish entered Youth anglers- (17-13) 1st- $200, 2nd-$150, 3rd-$75, 4-5th-$50 (12 & under)-1st-$100, 2nd-$75, 3rd-$50 Fri-Sunday Weekend Prizes-10@$100 per weekend Golden Angler Award (70 & older)-$200 & $100, determined by total fish entered Bucket Days-3 days of single/team-heaviest 4-fish-9/18-Friday, 10/10-Saturday, & 11/8-Sunday Monday-Thursday- 6:00 pm deadline to turn in fish – 10-$50, 2-$100 lottery drawings-2 tagging drawings $500, Siberian cooler tickets-1 for every 10 entries Mon-Thursday-43 days-also counts on bonus totals at the end of the event. ALL ANGLERS WHO ENTER 11 or more LAKE TROUT QUALIFY for BONUS $-the higher your total - the higher the bonus category - every day counts: Mon-Sun (69 total days) Fish the entire lake- Check in stations and times listed on the website -click on events at the top of the page-times will be listed there and are subject to change. Check the rules, prizes, bonuses, check in sites, & register online at
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Telephone 406-883-2888 Ex. 7294 or 406-270-3386 Applications will be available: Zimmers Tackle-Pablo, Sportsman & Ski Haus-Kalispell, Walmart-Polson Bob Ward & Sons-Missoula, Sportsman’s Warehouse-Missoula, Snappys Sports Senter-Kalispell, FWP-Missoula and Kalispell, Bretz RV & Marine-Missoula, CSKT NRD Offices-Polson, Westland Seed-Ronan We ask that all boats from out of the Flathead area be inspected for AIS.
Everything will be subject to changeCOVID concerns may cause issues that will have to be addressed as we move closer to the event. We remind you to follow all fishing regulations. The Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes have a special $13 fishing permit for the south half on Flathead Lake that is available wherever fishing permits are sold.
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Remington 870 Pump Shotgun The All Around American Classic By A.J. Derosa Project Upland www.projectupland.com
Like many have found growing up hunting, the Remington 870 pump shotgun is a hunting gin made for a wide range of applications.
he smell of pine needles filled my father’s townhouse T as we came up the basement stairs. The anticipation had been killing me the whole ride up. I knew this would
be the year I got my first gun! Sure enough, below the tree a box was wrapped up with my name on it, a fitting size for a gun. What else could it be? I laid awake in my bed that night, thinking of the countless adventures that would be wrapped up in that one present. Was it a Remington 1100, the Cadillac of my family’s gunning world? Then I began to think, what if it’s a 12-gauge? I’ve always been small framed, and other than my brother’s old .410 single shot, everything in my family’s gun cabinets were 12-gauges. The morning came. And I’m sure like many American boys and girls across the country, I received my first Remington Model 870 Express Youth Model. More than 11 million 870s have been sold since 1950, to be precise. Mine was a 20-gauge to my excitement, and soon my father’s gun cabinet revealed a collection of those yellow shells I would come to love. This shotgun would pave my way into the future of hunting. It shot my first ruffed grouse, my first American woodcock, and my first whitetail deer. In fact, at 37 years old, I still use it as my deer gun in the rifle-restricted areas of my childhood haunts. In short, it’s reliable and predictable. It can take a beating. And despite my attempts to swap over to an 1100 and many other models, I always went back to it for deer. Its biggest use these days is as my home defense gun because I trust it, know it better than any other shotgun I’ve owned. The Remington 870 line comes from a wide range of guns, the Express being entry level. Starting at $417 MSRP it’s hard to believe it’s 2020. The step up in the world of wingshooting is the 870 Wingmaster starting at $847 MSRP, still very reasonable for a shotgun boasting this level of reliability. My older brother had a Wingmaster. I always remember how much shinier it was than my matte finish youth model. It felt notably smoother when you pumped it, but as a 12-gauge I rarely shot it. I came to love matte finish at an older age, but in those days I was envious.
18| Hunting & Fishing News
VERSATILITY IS EVERYTHING This gun has versatility and reliability for the price. That above all is why I would recommend it to any new hunter out there. This is not a specialty shotgun, but when used correctly it can be good at anything to which it is applied. If it were a gun dog, it would certainly fall into the versatile breed category. The interchangeable chokes, standard since 1986, will allow you to explore various upland game and also the beloved wild turkey. Its ability to swap out barrels allows you to add a slug barrel for big game hunting and open sights. This shotgun is produced in 12-gauge, 20-gauge, 28-gauge, and .410 bore, only adding to its versatility. Remington has reinvented their pump shotgun more than once. If you journey into the vintage pump shotguns that predated it you would find the Model 10, then the Model 17, and lastly the Model 31. But for almost 70 years, the 870 has proved to be the right fit for the Remington brand. This gun certainly holds particular importance to those new to hunting. Maybe you will not like upland hunting or waterfowl, maybe turkey hunting will be your thing. But past that, big game may be something you want to explore, as well. As mentioned above the importance of interchangeable chokes is the cornerstone of a versatile shotgun, something often lost on vintage double guns and bespoke side-by-sides. Put in a full choke and turkey season is on; swap out to something wide open and woodcock here you come. Find yourself wanting to understand firsthand the practical application of different chokes? This gun will work. And since the 50s, Remington has noted their barrels are capable of handling steel shot. PROBLEMS AND ISSUES WITH THE 870 PUMP SHOTGUN One of the most common issues with the shotgun is that it does not take well to certain shotgun shells. Some say that low brass can cause extraction issues, others point towards cheap ammunition in general. I’ve certainly experienced some of these issues over the years. It is easily overcome, however; like many shotguns you should test what works best with it–a more common issue among semi-automatics. We all should take the time to pattern test our shotgun with various chokes and ammunition, anyways. I’ve heard accounts of broken ejector springs, but for all the various ones owned in my family I have yet to see it happen. The replacement of said spring requires special tools that can be ordered, but most gunsmiths are equipped for the fix. Like any shotgun not properly cared for, rust can become an issue. Some say more common because of the quality of finish on a low cost shotgun. Be sure to keep the surfaces well oiled and free from moisture and a shotgun can certainly last. Mine has developed some surface rust now and again, but it has always come off easily and I contribute most of that to its lack of use. Probably time I start a more regular maintenance program on it. THE HISTORY AND ADVANCEMENT OF THE 870 PUMP As noted above, the 870 pumps were an evolution in gun making, maybe one of the finest examples of Remington’s ability to adapt with the times. The cheaper Express model became available in the mid-90s, cutting the sale price almost in half. The growth of sales was sparked by the introduction of the Express model and it helped push the gun over the 10 million sales mark.
The shotgun has held the record of the best selling shotgun since the early 80s and no company has yet to surpass it. Their bankruptcy in 2018 was due to a $950 million debt it had racked up. Some point to the defect in their X-Mark Pro trigger that was linked to several deaths as marking a decline in reputation for the company that was accompanied by a sales decline. Remington was bailed out, so don’t worry, the 870 is still being produced. In the 1960s the United States Marine Corps used the 870 Mark 1 which held 8 rounds and could affix a bayonet. It saw action in both the Vietnam War and the Iraq War. Various versions have been bought over the years by other Federal Agencies including the FBI, Secret Service, and Border Patrol. And notable local law enforcement organizations like the California Highway Patrol, LAPD, and the Pennsylvania State Police. WHY THE 870 PUMP MATTERS TO BIRD HUNTERS Learn how to properly use a pump shotgun and it is as effective as any shotgun in bird hunting. Some will certainly say other guns like semi-automatics and double guns are easier to shoot without the action needed to pump a second round in. But that has not stopped many from falling in love with this shotgun or learning to use it well. Its versatility makes it suitable for any upland game in North America with the simple swap of a choke and maybe for the more detail-oriented, a swap of barrels of different lengths.
Photo courtesy Project Upland
From the youth model up, a slip-on recoil pad can help lengthen things up for those that require a greater length of pull.
The Remington 870 pump shotgun will always hold a special place in my heart. Every time the action comes back, in floods my memories of all those “firsts.” The yellow 20-gauge shells hold a greater meaning to me than my more recent 28 gauge additions. A collection sitting in my gun cleaning kit includes small white labels indicating dates and deer that 870 shotgun has gifted me, the rise of that first woodcock that fell in the trail in front of me as a child and the one turkey I shot with it. I have no doubt that this American classic shotgun will serve an equally fitting purpose for many others.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 19
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TIMBER GULCH ACCESS ROAD EASEMENT IMPROVED LAND ACCESS Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks (FWP) purchased a permanent road easement across private land in the Timber Gulch area of McCartney Mountain, three miles east of Glen. The purchase secured public access to 3,400 acres of Bureau of Land Management ground in elk hunting district 340. The Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation provided funding from its Torstenson Family Endowment to assist with the project. FWP conveyed the 0.14 miles of existing primitive road to the BLM. The primitive road connects a county road (Burma Road) to an open route on the BLM that is open year-round.
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Once you are in close to the elk, the chess match begins and you have to just hunt. This is where you have to read the situation. Perhaps sitting silently, being patient, and waiting on the elk to make the mistake is your best bet, or maybe a gentle “lost cow” call will bring the bull into bow range.
Photo courtesy montanadecoy.com
UTILIZING ELK DECOYS; EARLY SEASON VS THE RUT By Trevon Stoltzfus, Outback Outdoors Originally published at Montana Decoy www.montanadecoy.com
lk season out west always seems to conjure E images of reddish gold aspen leaves in September and bulls screaming out their love sick calls in the high
country of the Rocky Mountains. For an elk hunter there is nothing better, and many a night is spent dreaming of that perfect set up where a huge unsuspecting 6 X 6 bull gets pulled to a mere 10 yards of the shooter by his buddy strategically set up calling behind him at 60 yards. I would like to tell you that that scenario is the norm when bowhunting elk with a bow, but for me its not. Although I have had a few amazing textbook set ups and interactions, where a bull came in on a string and I was able to get drawn back and make a lethal shot, most of the time the success has come from creativity and the ability to put myself in an ambush position to intercept the elk on their natural path regardless of whether its early or later in the season. One tool I utilize from early season to later in the rut is a cow elk decoy from Montana Decoy, specifically the RMEF Cow Elk or the Eichler Elk. These decoys work for me for a few reasons. The first is that it allows me to think out of the box. I like both of these decoys because they are compact and easily strapped to my pack for transport, and yet they expand to a large enough size that I can literally hide behind them and use them for cover. Early season elk hunting can often times be hot and dry with little elk vocalization and elk movement can be limited, depending on the weather where you are hunting. I use the cow decoy to move through open country as I seek to close in on elk that are transitioning from feeding and moving into their bedding areas Using an elk decoy in this early season ambush type, spot and stalk, sparse calling mish-mash of techniques can truly allow you to close the distance to within bow range, assuming that you are primarily paying attention to the thermals and the wind direction..
22| Hunting & Fishing News
As the season rolls on and the urge to breed seems to surpass a bull elk’s vigilance to stay hidden, an elk hunter can then transition into a more aggressive strategy. If hunting solo, an archer can utilize a modified “button hook” method that has been made popular by elk hunters who call and hunt in pairs. The idea is to create a scenario where a cow elk is lost or separated from the herd. A hunter can use the cow elk decoy to finalize the illusion by moving as close to the vocal herd as possible, presumably undetected and into the wind, and then set the decoy up on the edge of a small opening. This is where you want the bull elk to end up and by setting it near a small opening this allows the elk to have the visual cues necessary to facilitate the illusion. The hunter then does a short cow calling sequence and immediately, and as quietly as possible, moves forward towards the herd but a little off to the side. Just like a button hook route that a wide receiver might run in football. A bull will approach with his nose into the wind checking to pick up the scent of the lost cow or any danger lurking ahead and this is why it is so important for the hunter to set up a bit to the side allowing for a broad side shot as the bull closes the distance on the lonely cow and yet remain out of his scent cone. In this scenario, just like in most solo hunting scenarios, practice and a bit of luck come into play. But when it all comes together it is an amazing feeling to know that you have outwitted a wild animal on his own turf. I would also recommend that you have a list of good buddies that you can call to help with the pack out! If you are fortunate to have a buddy along to help you “Tag Team” the calling, the difference in techniques is marginal. Rather than leaving the cow elk decoy stationary, as in the solo scenario, the caller will actually use movement of the decoy, along with his calls, to get the bulls attention as he brings him past a willing and ready partner with bow in hand. (On a side note we have found that by “flashing” the cow elk decoy every so often rather than constantly holding the decoy up and in sight of the bull really does a good job of portraying elk moving through the woods as they will disappear and reappear as they make their way through the vegetation.) Regardless of when you are planning your hunt, being in the elk woods in late August through September is a magical time and using a creative mindset and a few helpful tactics with elk decoys can give you a couple more tools for your elk hunting tool box. Remember this important fact….. You can fool their eyes and you can fool their ears, but you will never fool their nose.
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TIPS TO PREPARE AND COOK MOUTHWATERING ANTELOPE MEALS By Zach Lazzari Table Mountain Outfitters www.tablemountainoutfitters.com The unique savory taste of perfect antelope steaks will please the pickiest pallets. Pan-frying steaks in a cast iron skillet is simple and easy. No marinades are necessary either. Cut your steaks and add sea salt and pepper. Occasionally, I will add a pinch of cayenne pepper as well. Heat the pan on high, add butter or oil and sear for 3-4 minutes on each side. The thickness of the steaks will determine the duration. I use a fork to poke the meat and pull it off to rest for 8 minutes when the fork easily penetrates about a quarter of the exterior.
All Photos Credit Ryan McSparran
ntelope meat gets mixed reviews from hunters. It’s a A difficult thing for me to understand personally, because I can’t get enough of antelope. The pronghorn by nature is designed to run and they have a lean and strong build. Improper care can leave any wild animal with a gamey taste. But with a little attention, antelope can quickly climb the ladder of preferred meat options.
On the barbecue, cut the steaks or take an entire backstrap and splay it in half or thirds. Mix olive oil, Worcestershire sauce and minced garlic and rub liberally on the meat. Rub down with sea salt and pepper and heat the grill to a high heat setting. Set the meat on the grill and allow the oils and seasoning to sear on each side for 4-5 minutes. Pull the meat and rest for 10 minutes before serving. An internal temperature of 130-degrees is good for medium-rare roasts and big cuts. Do not over cook your antelope it will only become tough and dry.
As we approach antelope hunting season in Wyoming, here are a few processing and cooking tips to make the most out of your pronghorn meat:
Field Dressing and Preparing Antelope Field care is extremely important and will determine the quality of the meat. Quickly cooling and processing the antelope is imperative in the field. Gut your animal and allow for heat escape soon as possible. Hang the quarters in a cool, dry space until it can be processed or taken to a local processor. Lastly, process and freeze the cuts for consumption. If you process yourself be sure to take out as much of the connective tissue and fat. While fat is a flavor additive in beef and other consumer meats it will only detract from the great flavor of your antelope. If you want a fat additive to help with a grind I would suggest adding a pork or beef suet.
Cooking the Tough Cuts
The tougher cuts like the shanks, neck and front quarters are perfect for slow-cooked recipes that tenderize the meat and break down connective tissue. Stews and chili are two easy favorites. Cooking on low heat for 8-10 hours will bring out more flavor in stew and chili recipes. You can take any standard stew or chili recipe and substitute the antelope for other meat options. I like it spicy and add a jalapeno pepper to chili recipes, removing the pepper just before serving. The slow cooker is a game changer for tenderizing the tougher cuts on any game animal.
Working with Prime Cuts
The prime cuts are perfect for steaks and roasts. I like my antelope steaks rare to medium rare, seared and cooked quickly. Cooking individual steaks is an option but doing the entire backstrap in one piece on the grill is also fun for a group dinner.
24| Hunting & Fishing News
To learn more about guided antelope hunts with Table Mountain Outfitters, please visit their ANTELOPE HUNTING PAGE https://www.tablemountainoutfitters.com/hunts/antelope/. For booking, availability and other details, please don’t hesitate to give them a call at 307-632-6352. Zach Lazzari is an OUTDOOR WRITER, fly fishing guide and hunting enthusiast. Follow Zach at BUSTEDOARLOCK.COM.
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QUICK TIPS FOR HAULING GAME MEAT HOME Montana Decoy www.montanadecoy.com
I
... t can be intimidating to come out west, hunt a new state and species, and make it home with the maximum amount of meat after a successful hunt. Below is a list of suggestions to help transport your hard-earned bounty home. Save your jugs. I’ve made it a habit to save my milk jugs. As I consume meat from the prior year, I fill the jugs with water and use them to fill the space in the chest freezer. They will last much longer than ice cubes when out in the field. Ensure you have space. A bull elk is larger than you think. They will definitely fill two, large 120-quart ice chests when you have the appropriate amount of ice. If you’re hunting a medium-sized animal (deer/sheep), a large ice chest will hold you over. Place the meat inside, and keep it topped off with the maximum amount of ice. Sun is bad. Sounds simple, right? But I’ve seen several instances where someone forgot to put the cooler back in the shade, and they accelerated the melting process dramatically. Keep it in the shade, especially if you’ve already filled it with meat. If you have it in the bed of your truck while you’re driving back home, cover it with a blanket or sleeping bag to better insulate it. Don’t stress. I regularly keep meat on ice for 7 to 10 days before I get the chance to freeze it or process it. Drain the bloody water and keep replacing the ice during your travels, and you’ll be fine. You can even fly home with a cooler or two full of meat. You’ll need to pay attention to weight limits and will most likely be charged for the extra checked baggage. But it’s a great way to get your hard-earned protein back from an adventure. Lastly, if you have the chance to freeze it, do it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard someone say you can’t defrost meat then re-freeze it. Nonsense. Cut the meat into manageable pieces, freeze it and you’ll have absolutely no problem transporting it. Defrost it when you’re ready, or drop it off at the processor frozen. I have even seen guys who drive out to their hunts, pull a small trailer with their gear, ATV, generator and a small chest freezer and actually freeze their own meat in the field for the long ride home. Once their hunt is done, they load everything up, duct tape the freezer closed and they’re good to go. It can be difficult to find success on a western hunt, not to mention getting the meat back home. But follow these useful tips, and you’ll increase your chances of bringing home the maximum amount of meat with the least amount of spoilage...
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8 Packing Tips For High Country Mule Deer & Early Archery Elk
By Ryan McSparran Hunting Gear Outfitters www.huntinggearoutfitters.com
here’s something special about being at timberline at the T end of August or early September. Here in Colorado, timberline is usually between 10,000 and 12,000 feet.
Perched on a lofty ridge and surrounded by rocky peaks, there’s nothing like spotting a big mule deer buck or hearing the bugle of an elk in one of these high alpine basins. Hunting these high lonesome places is breathtaking (literally). The first challenge is often just getting there. There’s a fine balance between being prepared and keeping your pack light. You need to be ready for what the mountain will throw at you, but every ounce is an ounce you’ll curse before the hunt is over. As you pack for your next high country mule deer hunt, or early season archery elk hunt, here are a few tips to consider: 1. Start With Good Boots A mountain hunt should begin with good boots. If you’re backpacking into the high country, a quality pair of boots is mandatory. Even if you’re setting a base camp at your vehicle and doing day hunts, you should still plan to invest in a great pair of mountain boots. We can’t say enough about Kenetrek boots. I have a pair of Mountain Extremes (non-insulated) that are going on their fifth season in 2019. They are supportive and have protected my feet in rugged terrain from Alaska to Arizona. With proper conditioning and care, they are still in great shape. For a nominal fee, Kenetrek will even resole and refurbish them.
Photo credit Ryan McSparran
Additionally, be aware that the best boots in the world won’t function properly if you’re wearing cotton socks underneath. In fact, that goes for the rest of your base layer clothing too. Get a quality pair of synthetic or merino wool blend socks, like the ones from Kenetrek, that help move moisture away from your feet. When it comes to your feet, don’t make compromises. We’ve seen failed boots end hunts early. This is an all too common mistake. Don’t let it be you. 2. Cut Weight With Dual-Purpose Items Whenever possible, pack items that serve more than one purpose to cut down on weight. For example, a lightweight and packable down jacket provides warmth while you’re glassing on a windy ridge. But it can also add warmth to your sleep system. With this in mind, you could carry a lighter sleeping bag with a higher temperature rating than you otherwise would. Likewise, look for other ways to use items for multiple purposes. Make a few wraps of duct tape around your water bottle, and electrical tape around your lighter. Bring one tripod that you can use for a shooting rest, spotting scope, binoculars and camera. (continued next page)
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8 Packing Tips For WHOLESALE PRICING on RVs High Country Mule Deer & 2021 Keystone RV Alpine 3650RL Early Archery Elk Fifth Wheel (continued from page 27)
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If there’s an item in your pack that only serves a marginal purpose – ask yourself how badly you really need it. Because when you’re climbing for a steep ridge above timberline, you’ll feel every single ounce. 3. Don’t Forget Your Rain Gear When you’re hunting mule deer above timberline, or chasing elk in early September, this is monsoon season in here in Colorado. Afternoon thunderstorms can be expected almost every day. In addition to being aware of lightning, you should certainly be prepared for rain.
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Rainstorms here usually don’t last long, but they can be intense. Your rain gear might spend more time in your pack than it does on your back, but it still needs to be solid. There’s a fine line between ultralight and stormproof. And walking that line with quality rain gear usually isn’t cheap. For a typical high mountain hunt, look for a quality rain jacket that’s breathable and weighs in somewhere in the 12 to 16-ounce range. Don’t be surprised if a jacket of this quality ranges between $250 and $350. However, quality rain gear is worth the investment. In addition to protecting you from rain, breathable rain gear also blocks wind. That means it’s perfect for keeping you warm on a cool morning, or when glassing from a windy ridge. We already mentioned bringing dual-purpose items. Good rain gear meets that mark. 4. Use Compression Sacks When packing for a mountain hunt, use compression sacks wherever possible. Any item that’s compressible should probably go in a compression sack. Water resistant and even waterproof compression sacks are ideal. Forget the cheap stuff sack that came with your sleeping bag. Instead, use a waterproof or at least water resistant compression sack. This will reduce your sleeping bag to a much more manageable size in your pack. Just know that you shouldn’t store your sleeping bag in a compression sack (or any stuff sack) longer than necessary. Additionally, pack your spare clothing, rain gear and anything else into a compression sack to reduce the size it takes up in your backpack. 5. Build Your Own Emergency Kit When you purchase a first aid kit or an emergency kit off the shelf from a sporting goods store, you’re inevitably adding items to your pack that are not customized to your specific adventure. For example, the kit we’d carry to Alaska is going to be much different than an emergency kit we’d pack for an alpine hunt here in Colorado. Customizing your kit will help you be more prepared, without taking unnecessary items.
We recommend building your own emergency kit. For starters, most first aid kits come in a handy nylon bag. While nice for keeping things organized, they are usually full of pockets, zippers, mesh dividers and other weight-adding features. So, ditch the pack that your first aid kit came in, and start with an ultralight pouch like the ones from SealLine. Even a plastic sandwich bag would do. Next, add items that you need and nothing that you don’t. You might add a basic selection of bandages, antibiotic gel, gauze, wire splint, and blister pads. It’s also a good idea to carry blood clotting treatment or similar items in case you cut yourself on a broadhead or knife. Other items we often carry include a whistle, a lighter, a backup compass, a spare headlamp like the Petzl E+Lite, and iodine pills in case your filtration system fails. 6. Organize Daily Meals and Supplements Don’t guess at your meal plan. Take a careful inventory of your needed calorie intake each day. And work to keep your meal plan lightweight, without sacrificing energy. We have become big fans of the meals from Peak Refuel. They require less water than most dehydrated meals, they are high in protein, and they taste awesome when you’re in the backcountry. Additionally, we use a combination of Wilderness Athlete hydration, vitamin, and meal replacement supplements on all of our hunts, depending on the length and destination. These are designed for staying charged in demanding mountain conditions. When you’ve dialed in your daily meal plan, use separate plastic bags to organize your food by day, and label each bag. Then each day, simply grab a bag for that day’s hunt. Also you might consider dividing up items like granola or jerky into daily portions and vacuum sealing them separately.
7. Know How to Care for Meat in Warm Weather When you’re hunting mule deer or elk early in the season, the weather can be hot. Even at timberline, temperatures can get very warm in early September. Don’t wait until you have an animal on the ground to begin making a plan. Your planning for early season meat care begins now. Of course we’ll be the first to tell you that quality game bags are essential. You need to keep your meat clean, protected, and get it cool as soon as possible. Our Caribou Gear High Country series is perfect for backpack mule deer hunts, and early season archery elk hunts. Our High Country series comes in three sizes. This includes the Muley, designed for mule deer and similar sized game, and the Wapiti for elk. Each pack includes four long quarter bags and one meat parts bag for backstraps and other loose meat... 8. Consider A Satellite Communicator When you’re planning a hunt in remote and rugged country, you shouldn’t rely on your cell phone. You might sometimes get a signal on random mountaintops here in Colorado, but don’t count on it. It’s a great idea to carry a Garmin InReach or other satellite communicator. In addition to saving your life in case of injury, it’s nice being able to text and update your friends and family back home. The Garmin InReach pairs with an app on your smartphone, allowing you to text from your phone, without using the clumsy interface on the device itself. When your InReach is activated, you’ll pay a monthly fee. When you don’t need it during the off-season, you can simply deactivate the device, and pause billing. As you prepare for an early season hunt in the alpine or open tundra, check out the rest of our recommended products at HuntingGearOutfitters.com.
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Hunting & Fishing News | 29
Such a place makes for an easy decision of where to eat. How about the one diner that is open? But don’t think the lack of competition has them slouching! The small diner’s windows are dressed in curtains and the walls are covered in dark wood paneling. It is the definition of quaint! Just in time for Veteran’s Day, there is a loving display of photos of local soldiers in the height of their service years. Seated just below the poster board is undoubtedly one of those fine Veterans wearing a black Vietnam Vet hat. The owner calls him by name and keeps his coffee cup steaming. Photo courtesy SNS Outfitter & Guides
Camaraderie, Small Town Diner Style SNS Outfitter & Guides www.huntwyo.com
here are many aspects of going on a guided hunt. T Some of which have nothing to do with the actual harvest, yet they make your experience that much richer.
It may be a new piece of gear discovered, finding a shed or friendships made. Today as the deer retreat from the hayfields, our discussion turns to coffee and grub. This group is hunting from town, so we decide to head in for a bite. We are in small town Wyoming! Where everyone lifts their first two fingers from the steering wheel to wave. They have two stop lights, thank you very much and feed store chatter knows all the latest buzz!
The restaurant owner, a non-natural red head, seats our party herself. She wears a warm smile, half apron and tiny splashes of bacon grease peppered across her t-shirt. She doesn’t need to ask what brings us to town. The camouflage gives it away.
Please Call Ahead To Confirm Tour Dates.
30| Hunting & Fishing News
Having already fallen for the diner’s atmosphere, I order the “two-two-two” aka two eggs, two strips of bacon and two pieces of French toast. And because her apron made me trust her culinary skills, I let the owner talk me into the caramel pecan topping. “I make it myself” she winks. Peeling off an outer layer, we settle in. Conversations begin to flow recalling deer hunting at its best. Soon plates of food were laid before us. On my third bite I announced, “I may not have room for all this but I will be finishing it!” We all laugh, fill our bellies and coordinated a plan of action for the remainder of our day in the field. With a healthy tip laid beside the salt & pepper shakers, back out we go into the crisp November morning.
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Oddly enough, as I laid my head down that night, it wasn’t that monstrous whitetale deer we spotted or the stalk we put on him just before the shooting light evaporated. It was the camaraderie we shared and the stories told over that hearty meal that had me smiling. I’m not sure any other time we would have found ourselves in this small town western diner. Chalk it up to yet another bonus of spending time with fellow hunters to add to our adventures!
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Speaking of bonus, that lovely diner owner shared her caramel pecan topping recipe with me. Y’all may just want to give this one a whirl!
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GEAR REVIEW
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Gerber Randy Newberg EBS Knife
Whether using the Gutless Method or a traditional open cavity method, the EBS is more than all you need. Features: -440C exchangeable blade shapes for backstrap, caping/ breakdown, and multi-purpose -Handle nests to box for minimal footprint -Retroflective material for night locating -Lightweight skeletonized construction -Hand-hugging ergonomics -Quiet Carry box See these and other fine products at one of the 5 Montana Bob Ward’s Sports & Outdoors stores or shop 24/7 at www.bobwards.com
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10 TIPS TO UP YOUR
GLASSING GAME (continued from page 11)
6. “What’s your favorite planet? Mine’s the sun.” (Saturday Night Live.) Deer can be shady characters. When it’s hot and the sun is blazing, we seek shade and peel off layers. The game you’re after may be doing the exact same thing. Well, not peeling off layers. If conditions are like this, glass shady spots. Conversely, on cool days, deer may be intentionally capturing the sun’s rays to warm up. Glassing hillsides and faces that get early sun may be the ticket to finding animals looking to heat their mammalian bodies after a cold night. They will also be much easier to spot, as they will likely be standing, moving, and seemingly glowing in the morning sun... 7. In the timber and can’t see more than 100 yards? Perfect: Glassing in the timber or densely vegetated terrain is an under implemented tactic - particularly when “still hunting” and moving at a snail’s pace. (Want to learn more about still hunting? Check out this 10-Minute Talk https://soundcloud.com/vortexnationpodcast/10minutetalk-still -hunting#t=0:00.) You will be able to spot minute details and pieces of game standing or bedded. What may look like a wall of trees and brush with the naked eye, could become a buck or bull in a tight shooting lane the second you put your binos up. From a concealment perspective, the same things that prevent you from seeing a game animal obscure you from them. The key is evening the visual-acuity odds and seeing them first. (continued on page 38)
Hunting & Fishing News | 33
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PLANNING YOUR MULE DEER HUNT IN ELK COUNTRY By Jake Horton Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
hether you are an avid or novice mule deer hunter, W we are always searching for those hidden nooks and crannies that allow a mule deer buck to grow to trophy size.
Quite often, alpine mule deer and elk share the same habitat, which can cause major issues for hunters who are solely chasing mule deer. The main problem is not that elk and mule deer share home ranges, but that the elk and mule deer seasons in most states overlap, adding to the number of hunters in the woods. In many states, mule deer hunting is more limited and is considered a draw hunt for a unit while the elk tags for the same unit may be abundant or over-the-counter (OTC). Hunters who draw a limited and coveted mule deer tag can become quickly disheartened when they arrive at a unit they plan to have to themselves only to find elk camps with large numbers of people planning to hunt the same basins. In my experience, there are two strategies to deal with elk hunters when trying to plan a mule deer hunt in elk country.
1. Researching for mule deer by researching for elk
The first strategy starts before a unit is selected and a permit is drawn. This strategy involves researching and hunting in units with limited elk permits or a unit that doesn’t allow OTC tags for elk in order to guarantee fewer people in the unit. Using goHUNT INSIDER, you can choose your five or six most desirable mule deer units within a state. Then, also using INSIDER, you can check out the elk statistics and Draw Odds of the same unit. You are essentially cross-checking any place you want to hunt with the other seasons during that time-frame. If the unit has OTC elk tags or a high number of elk permits available, then it might not be the unpressured mule deer hunt worth saving your points for. I am a firm believer that doing your research ahead of time and setting appropriate expectations will allow a hunter to have a more enjoyable hunt — whether they have a chance to harvest an animal or not.
2. Elk hunters guide you to mule deer
Photo credit Brandon Evans
The second strategy-and the one I prefer is to allow the elk hunters to guide you to the mule deer. I call this planning your mule deer hunt by planning an elk hunt. If left unpressured, elk and mule deer share the same habitat, the same feeding areas, and watering holes and, even, some same trails.
34| Hunting & Fishing News
Photo credit Jake Horton
However, when we inject the pressure of hunters, mule deer and elk change their natural behavior and act differently. This pressure comes from hunters who are typically using two different hunting strategies, especially during September. Typically, to hunt elk, hunters will cover a lot of ground spotting and moving in order to find their quarry. These hunters use strategies such as bugling, cow calling and/or raking trees to try to lure a bull within range. These elk strategies are vastly different than the typical mule deer strategy. In general, a successful mule deer hunt is determined by how much time you spend behind glass and how quietly you can sneak up on a bedded buck using cover and the wind to your advantage. A strategy I use when planning a mule deer hunt involves me using goHUNT INSIDER to pick my most desirable unit to hunt based on harvest statistics, trophy potential and public land percentage. I do pay attention to what other species can be hunted concurrent with the season I plan on hunting. However, I don’t let this deter me. Instead, I use it to my advantage. As an avid elk hunter, I plan my mule deer hunt by figuring out where I would elk hunt in a unit or specific basin. Elk need food, water and cover so any place that has all of those basic necessities will have elk hunters nearby and the mature mule deer will typically not be there for long. After marking all of these spots on an aerial or topographic map, next I look at spots that are not as desirable for elk hunts. These spots may be an empty sage basin with a watering hole or a small patch of cedars not big enough to hunt a couple of elk. These spots may look like a cliff edge or a rock outcropping where an elk hunter would have no business going near or a small high elevation patch of pines that mule deer can back up to and feel safe. Once I have these spots discovered and marked, I am ready for my mule deer hunt and will find those good bucks that are not being pushed around by elk hunters.
IN CONCLUSION
Both strategies have to do with the avoidance of people. The first strategy is to simply avoid the crowds by hunting an area that allows fewer hunters. The second strategy involves using other hunters to your advantage. You do this by al l o w i n g b a s i c h u n t i n g Photo credit goHUNT.com knowledge to guide you to places that will have less foot traffic and, hopefully, lead to a chance to harvest a more mature deer. Both strategies are effective, but not the only ones out there. No matter what you choose to do, a day in the high country is a good and successful day.
SHOP RMEF
Photo credit Grant McCrabb
JILL’S SIGNATURE MULE DEER BREAKFAST SKILLET By Jillian Sanford Originally published at
www.goHUNT.com
recipe is one of my family’s favorite breakfast recipes. This I hope you give it a try and love it as much as I do. Items needed: 1 package of mule deer sausage 1 package of bacon (diced into squares) 1 frozen package of Ore-ida Potatoes O’Brien 7 or 8 eggs whisked together A splash of milk or cream Olive oil Half a stick of butter (optional; see directions below) About 2 teaspoons of minced garlic 1 8 oz of mushrooms sliced Half an onion, diced Half a green bell pepper, diced Salt and pepper to taste Montreal steak seasoning 1 package of shredded cheddar cheese Step 1 Throw your diced up bacon into the skillet. Cook until nice and crispy, but not too crispy — somewhere right in the middle of soft and still a bit chewy with a crisp (but not too crispy and burnt unless you like it like that). After the bacon is cooked to your liking, remove from your skillet and add about half a stick of butter, minced garlic, onions, bell peppers and mushrooms. Cook until tender. Or, instead of adding butter to the skillet, use the bacon grease in the pot to cook the minced garlic, onions, bell peppers and mushrooms until tender... Step 2 Add your ground sausage into the skillet with your minced garlic, onions, bell peppers and mushrooms. In this recipe, I am using mule deer sausage, but you can use whatever you have in the freezer. After the sausage is thoroughly cooked, remove mixture from the skillet. Step 3 Add a bit of olive oil into the skillet and let that heat up. When nice and hot, add your frozen potatoes. Cook until done. Next, add your meat mixture and the bacon back into the skillet with the potatoes and stir until everything is combined. Step 4 Add all the eggs into a separate bowl and add a splash of milk. Stir well and add them into the skillet with everything else. Cook until the eggs are done. Step 5 Add a thick layer of cheese on the top and cover until it becomes nice and melted. Add a little bit of parsley on top or don’t — it’s just for looks; you don’t need to have the parsley. Step 6 Add sour cream, your favorite hot sauce, or even some salsa to finish off this delicious filling meal. If you give this recipe a try, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!
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Hunting & Fishing News | 35
How to Shoot a Black Bear By Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog www.bigdeerblog.com
Photo credit S. Hix for Idaho Fish And Game
IDFG - Texas Angler Reels In New Catch-And-Release Record Cutthroat Trout Congratulations to Sam Hix of Bellaire, Texas on setting a new catch-and-release Idaho state record Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Hix was fishing the Snake River on Aug. 7 when he hooked the monster cutthroat. After measuring the fish and taking a quick photograph, Sam released it to swim another day. His fish tops the long-standing record set by Nate Ivy in 2016 (28.5 inches) and will set a very high bar for future Yellowstone cutthroat trout records!
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36| Hunting & Fishing News
Photo courtesy Mike Hanback Big Deer Blog
you’re sitting 40 to 60 yards away from a bait pile Iisf(make sure this is legal in your state), range with a rifle no issue. But if you’re spotting and stalking, play the
wind and sneak within 200 yards of a bear feeding in a snow slide or burn…150 yards is better and 100 is best and generally achievable, since a myopic bear can’t see you. The closer the shot, the better your odds of placing that first bullet perfect. Where to hit them: A bear feeding his face is not in a hurry to go somewhere. Chill, stay patient and he will turn broadside or quarter-slightly away. Now one good option is to place your scope’s crosshair for a high shoulder shot. A bear so hit and shocked will drop like a rock. If your bullet breaks both shoulders, he is not going anywhere. Western bear guide Scott Denny (tablemountainoutfitters.com) is okay with the shoulder shot, but for first-time bear hunters he recommends the good old lung shot, especially when a critter is quartering away. “Most people are used to aiming behind a deer’s leg and at its lungs, so they’re comfortable aiming there on a bear, rather than trying to take out the shoulders,” he says. Tuck the crosshair behind the top of the shoulder and halfway up the animal’s side. Don’t aim low for a heart shot! A big bear has long hair that sweeps the ground, so it’s easy to shoot too low if you’re not careful,” notes Denny. Follow-up: I read somewhere that American hunters love to kick back and admire their first shot. That is an excellent observation. We stalk pretty well, aim well, press the trigger, drop our eye out of the riflescope, watch the critter go down and start smiling ear to ear. Generally that works out, but it is a bad habit you need to break, especially when shooting a bear. After you hit him hard, bolt another cartridge and lock your scope on him. If the critter tries to scramble away or so much as quivers, hit him again with another bullet…and again to stop him for good. Now you can relax and go check the hide, no tracking required.
10 TIPS TO UP YOUR GLASSING GAME (continued from page 33) 8. Get low: Wait, all I ever hear is I need to get to high point to glass? That is a damn good tip, but in some scenarios, losing a bit of elevation to see over the roll of a hill allows you to spot game right under your nose. These animals might not even be far off the beaten path, but feel secure, in their open, out of sight hidey-hole because no one ever bothers them. So, go bother them. Inevitably, you can’t see everything from a single location. Even minor changes in perspective will reveal country worth a hard look—and possibly the trophy of a lifetime. 9. Comfort is key: A glassing pad for your hindquarters will protect you from sharp rocks, sticks, cactus, keep you dry, and insulate you from the ground. Quietly clearing out an area of debris can help if you don’t have a pad – but be careful. Depending on where you’re hunting, there could be undesirable critters like ants, spiders, scorpions, and snakes living under the rocks, logs, and bark you disturb. It’s tough to concentrate on the task at hand when all you can think about is the rock drilling itself into your body – or being bit by a snake. 10. “The sun don’t bother me” (A River Runs Through It): Well, it bothers me when it’s not working in my favor… When glassing, you can spend hours in the same spot – particularly if you are keeping tabs on an animal your hunting partner is making a move on – all the while that glorious ball of fire and gas beats down on your skin with reckless abandon. Hopefully in this scenario, you have a lightweight hoodie you can pull over your head. If you don’t have one, get one. Other coverage options include deploying a shemagh (ultralight stylish and operator), a towel your sig-other won’t miss, or even an extra tee-shirt. The optics you employ, the landscape, game pursued, and how you pursue said game will dictate the best glassing tactics for a given scenario...
GOING DEEP IS NOT WORKING ANYMORE (continued from page 5)
Using a river to get deeper into a wilderness area quickly can also be an option that has proven fruitful. When there is a trail up the valley, find the way to get to the ridge and hike the ridge. Elk and deer tend to bed uphill from their feed and being above them will allow the Photo credit Brady Miller afternoon thermals to be in your favor while other hunters are on that bottom trail. For higher success, the overall thought process is to think like a hunter, then to understand that others think that way and figure out where the pressured animals will go. In my experience, going deep down a trail to the back of a basin has proven less and less productive over the past five to ten years. I used to only compete with horseback hunters; however, now the YouTube public hunting world is showing hunters what experiences they can have on public land if they simply push in farther for a better adventure. As a hunter that is used to pushing my body to the limits, it’s nice to see so many people getting after it and going hard, but it can be a frustrating experience. Above are some strategies that have proven effective for me to find elk and deer in even some of the most pressured situations. I am sure there are other techniques to find unpressured bulls and deer...Remember going deep doesn’t need to be on a trail or from a trailhead.
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