Cruise Passenger 83

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passenger cruıse CRUISEPASSENGER.COM.AU WI N A LUXURY ‘CRUISE’ ACROSS AUSTRALIA WORTH $5,910 GUIDE TO NEW SHIPS AND DESTINATIONS ISSUE 83 WINTER 2021 REVIEWS : VIKING / MSC / WINDSTAR + EXPERTS TELL: HOW TO SAFELY BOOK A CRUISE RIGHT NOW AT LAST! SHIP REPORTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD We are sailing AUSTRALIA/NZ AU$12.95

Climb on board the magnificent Indian Pacific in Perth for your transcontinental voyage to Sydney, following the path of bush pioneers, gold-rush-era prospectors and legendary adventurers. This is one of the world’s finest coast-to-coast crossings, on the longest straight stretch of railway track in the world. Encased in luxury, you’ll savour all-inclusive dining in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant,

relax in your private ensuite cabin, and enjoy off-train experiences as you travel across the country.

Marvel at the ever-changing scenery, from harsh barren landscapes and the raw beauty of the Nullarbor Plain to the lush eucalyptus forests of the majestic Blue Mountains, before arriving at your final destination, Sydney, where you’ll disembark. Explore Australia’s Red Centre as you’ve always been meaning to on the Indian Pacific.

Prize details and inclusions

l One winner will receive a 3-night all-inclusive rail journey for two people in a gold twin cabin on the Indian Pacific travelling from Perth to Sydney in January 2022.

l Enjoy all-inclusive off-train experiences and short stops in Kalgoorlie, Rawlinna, Cook, Adelaide, Broken Hill and the Blue Mountains.

l The prize includes onboard main meals.

How to enter

Go to cruisepassenger.com.au/competitions and enter your details for your chance to win this experience for two people.

Terms and conditions apply: see cruisepassenger.com.au/competitions

READER COMPETITION 2 cruisepassenger.com.au
a luxury ‘cruise’ across Australia for two on the Indian Pacific, travelling from Perth to Sydney in January 2022, worth $5,910.
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Stand up for cruising

Welcome to our winter edition. We may not be cruising in Australia and New Zealand just yet, but we are happy to report the rest of the world has already upped anchor and set sail. For the first time in more than a year we carry live reviews from our reporters in America, Europe and Asia. These stories represent a major breakthrough: a new beginning for the cruise industry as we all learn to live with the virus that caused a global pandemic.

Some half a million passengers have already taken to the high seas. America, with one of the toughest health and safety regimes in the world, is now allowing sailings, with even the big-ship lines back in action, practising social distancing and limiting passenger numbers. Carnival reports it is booked out for July and August.

Admittedly, it’s a work in progress. Some lines are opting for fully vaccinated passengers and crew. Some are allowing a mix, with specially reserved areas for vaccinated passengers. Not all countries are on board with the return, giving itinerary planners a headache. And some open and shut their ports like a jack-in-a-box.

But now that ships are sailing on almost every continent, the barometer points to a universal return.

There have been cases of COVID on board ships. But now that vessels have hospital-quality medical and isolation facilities, including ventilators, those passengers have quickly been quarantined, leaving others to enjoy their holidays. That’s what we should aim for, until this pandemic is no more serious than the flu.

Here in Australia and New Zealand, our biggest homeported fleets – P&O and Princess – have set their sights on a Christmas restart. The end of the year or the start of next makes sense, providing the government gets a move on with vaccinations.

As at July, we stand at a poor eight per cent of the population fully vaccinated – well behind Iceland’s 64 per cent. Romania and Morocco have triple our numbers, and the US and UK have each accelerated their programs to get to 50 per cent.

But we are now promised the government has the pedal to the metal, and is anticipating everyone will have at least one vaccination by the end of the year, and there’ll be enough fully vaccinated Australians to make overseas travel a possibility.

Why is Australia so far behind? It’s not just that we’ve become the laggards in a world liberated by vaccines. It’s also that we’ve opted for a zero-risk approach to COVID – an unsustainable position if you want life to return to some semblance of normality.

That approach has been on display each fortnight as the leaders of the cruise industry have trooped into talks with health officials, only to find them uninterested in hearing how much has been done to make cruising safe.

Cruise may only represent an annual $5 billion in economic activity, but Australia holds the record for the highest number of cruisers per capita anywhere in the world. More than a million cruised each year before the pandemic, and 18,000 direct jobs ride on its resumption. It deserves more respect.

Today, there is more cause for optimism than at any time in more than a year. The government’s four-step blueprint and vaccination certificates mean there will be confidence in a systematic and pragmatic approach to getting our lives back to a new reality.

For travel in general – and cruise in particular – this new approach is most welcome. It’s a plan. And that’s what travellers like us have been yearning for.

PUBLISHERS LETTER
04 cruisepassenger.com.au
Enjoying icecream on Royal Caribbean’s Anthem of the Seas, which recently sailed from the UK for the first time in more than a year.

cruıse

Editor-in-chief and publisher

Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Deputy editor

Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Executive editor

Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Art director

Mark Nulty

Advertising sales manager

Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Partnerships manager

Kate Radcliffe kate@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Contributors and writers

Sue Bryant, Tony Slinn, David Dickstein, Brian Johnston

28 / Kimberley calling Get back to nature on an Australian adventure cruise.

30 / Regional round-up

The best of South Pacific, Asia, Europe and beyond.

44 / Big is back

Big-ship cruising on the stunning new MSC Virtuosa

48 / Venus rising

On board the brand-new Viking Venus as the UK restarts cruises.

52 / Stretch test

The Star Breeze gets an astonishing makeover.

56 / Tips and advice

What to know about the return of cruising.

58 / Last word

is published by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street

Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au

Phone: +61 2 9356 8888

Managing director

Peter Lynch

All

reserved.

cruisepassenger.com.au 05
/ The big picture MS Roald Amundsen NEWS 10 / Start your engines! Cruise is slowly resuming around the world. 12 / Coming soon The latest on new ships and freshly minted itineraries. 14 / Beyond vs Prima We compare Celebrity Beyond and Norwegian Prima 16 / Money no object Who has the most expensive suite at sea? 20 / Pole to pole An epic journey from the Arctic to Antarctica. 22 / Expert opinion Australian cruising can safely return, says health expert. BEST OF 2022 24 / Anchors aweigh You’ll be spoilt for choice when local cruising returns.
2022
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Issue 83, Winter
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WINTER 2022
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‘CRUISE’ ACROSS AUSTRALIA FOR TWO ON
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THE BIG PICTURE

HURTIGRUTEN OF THE ANTARCTIC

Hurtigruten’s MS Roald Amundsen enters the Antarctic Circle to reach the ice edge at 70º south. It’s the furthest south any of its ships has ventured in the expedition cruise line’s 128 years of operation.

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cruisepassenger.com.au 07 THE BIG PICTURE

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OCEAN • RIVER • ADVENTURE • PORTS cruisepassenger.com.au 09 CruiseNews INSIDE Coral Expeditions has opened bookings for its 2023 Kimberley season. 16 Does Crystal Cruises have the most expensive suite? 14 Comparing Celebrity Beyond and Norwegian Prima 10 Ocean cruising is slowly restarting around the world. 13

Start your engines

Cruise is slowly resuming globally, with sailings from England and Captain Kate McCue helming the first cruise from an American port in more than a year.

When MSC Virtuosa departed from the English port of Southampton in May, it did not just signal the official return of cruising around the world, but also shone as a beacon of hope. While MSC sailed on and off from Italy from August 2020, the departure of MSC Virtuosa was a symbolic stride towards normalcy, and the start of green shoots for the rest of the cruise industry.

Then in June, the marvellous Celebrity Edge was the first ship to sail out of an American port in 15 months. Celebrity Cruises said at least 95 per cent of those boarding Celebrity Edge had been vaccinated against coronavirus, in line with the health requirements from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

The US$1 billion vessel was helmed by Captain Kate McCue, who in 2015 became the first American woman to captain a cruise ship. She has since drawn a following of more than two million on TikTok and 280,000 on Instagram.

Some of the excited passengers boarding Celebrity Edge even donned special T-shirts for the occasion.

“I ordered them because we needed to make a statement,” passenger Cynthia Mitchell told CNN, wearing matching ‘Straight Outta Vaccination’ shirts with her husband, James.

“I know we have all been through huge trauma, and everybody knows people who we have lost through this situation. I think it’s good that Celebrity has got their folks back to working and ready to sail. I’m excited.”

There are more positive signs of American ocean cruising returning to normal. There are plans for an Alaska cruise season, with RCI announcing it’ll send the Serenade of the Seas and Ovation of the Seas to cruise the Last Frontier.

While Alaskan itineraries were typically around 14 days in the past, the lines have committed to seven-night sailings that will bring in tourism to towns such as Juneau, Sitka, Ketchikan and Icy Strait Point.

Across the world, the major lines are relocating their elegant seafaring vessels and organising new itineraries to comply with government standards.

Australian cruisers have a while to wait, however. The battle continues to convince the federal and state governments to hand down a framework that will allow Australians to sail.

Already, two of Australia’s biggest operators, P&O Australia and Princess, have announced they would not be sailing until at least December 17. Royal Caribbean cancelled its blockbuster 2021 Australian season, with the first ships now due in April 2022.

The main beneficiary has been Asia, which was the first region to see cruise. Dream Cruises’ World Dream started in late 2020 with short round-trip cruises from Singapore. Royal Caribbean’s Quantum of the Seas soon followed in December, with Spectrum of the Seas sailing out of Hong Kong from July.

And at the beginning of 2021, Dream Cruises revealed it would send Explorer Dream to Taiwan for two- and three-night islandhopping itineraries calling at Penghu, Matsu and Kinmen islands.

But all eyes have been on the northern hemisphere, with cruise lines scrambling to salvage the summer season. With the first ships off the docks, and more to come, it seems that cruising has had a successful start.

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CRUISE NEWS
“Across the world, the major lines are relocating their elegant seafaring vessels and organising new itineraries to comply with government standards.”

The UK summer 2021 program has seen a number of lines offering short ‘staycation’ cruises, with lines like Cunard, Royal Caribbean, Virgin Voyages, Princess and Viking slowly restarting.

Viking Venus, the newest ship from the deluxe cruise line, embarked on her first voyage in May. Aside from offering trips from Southampton, Viking is looking to restart its operations in northern Europe and Scandinavia later this year.

There are also voyages now starting in the Mediterranean. With its balmy weather, it’s a popular destination for the local market and fly-cruisers. RCI’s Jewel of the Seas has started operating seven-night itineraries to the Greek isles, where it will homeport at the idyllic island of Cyprus. Jewel will visit Athens, Rhodes, Crete, Mykonos and Santorini.

And Norwegian Cruise Line also returned to the Greek islands, with Norwegian Jade offering new seven-day itineraries from Athens. This will be followed by Norwegian Joy and Norwegian

Gem in the Caribbean in August. Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas Cruises are also expected to restart sailings in September.

P&O Cruises UK’s new 40-night winter-sun Caribbean cruise on the Aurora sold out in just six hours. And 80 per cent of cabins on Aurora’s 12-night Portugal & the Canary Islands itinerary, which went on sale on July 6, sold on the first day of booking.

P&O Cruises president Paul Ludlow said: “This is an exceptional response which clearly demonstrates the desire from our guests for international cruising.

“Just over a week ago, Britannia started the series of UK coastal breaks, which has received superb feedback from our guests, while excitement continues to build ahead of Iona’s maiden voyage in a month’s time.

“This, coupled with the overwhelming sales for Aurora’s new 2022 winter sun holidays, underpins the incredible demand for travel we are seeing as normality returns.”

cruisepassenger.com.au 11 CRUISE NEWS
Celebrity Cruises’ Captain Kate McCue piloted the first American cruise ship to resume sailing in 2021.

Hurtigruten heads to the Galapagos

Hurtigruten Expeditions is expanding its global reach, offering unique voyages to the Galapagos Islands, one of the world’s most iconic destinations, in January next year.

Hurtigruten is also partnering with an experienced travel company, Ecuador-based Metropolitan Touring, to operate its itineraries in the Galapagos.

The partnership will see passengers explore the islands’ exotic wildlife on board MS Santa Cruz II, which will be added to Hurtigruten fleet of expedition ships. Before joining the fleet, MS Santa Cruz II will undergo a major refit, with all suites, cabins, lounge, dining room, bar and public areas to be upgraded.

A Hurtigruten hallmark, a Science Area, will also be added to enhance passengers’ understanding of the natural wonders they explore. From January 5 to December 2, 2022, the 90-passenger MS Santa Cruz II will take passengers on 10-day itineraries to the Galapagos, renowned for its striking natural landscapes and amazing wildlife.

“We have seen a clear trend of travellers seeking out truly unique and meaningful travel experiences, with a sharp increase in demand for the type of small ships/big experiences we offer,” says Hurtigruten Group CEO Daniel Skjeldam.

LUXURY ON THE CARDS FOR MSC

MSC is set to enter the luxury market with the launch of Explora Journeys, targeting well-heeled travellers who want to sail in style. The first of four luxury ships, Explora I, will debut in 2023, with the remaining ships coming in 2024, 2025 and 2026. MSC’s entry into the five-star market is expected to challenge established luxury brands such as Crystal Cruises and Silversea.

The 922-passenger Explora I luxury ship will offer all-inclusive voyages with 461 oceanfront suites and residences, generous outdoor decks, three outdoor pools and a fourth pool with a retractable roof, so that guests will be able to swim and relax poolside in any weather. Spacious suites starting at 35 square metres will have floor-to-ceiling windows and private terraces overlooking the sea. There will be nine restaurants on board the 14-deck ship, focusing on “wholesome ingredients sustainably sourced from local partners”. Explora I will offer seven-night journeys to Saint-Tropez, Bordeaux and Reykjavik as well as hidden gems such as Kastellorizo in Greece. The itineraries will take guests to lesser-travelled harbours “to enjoy a more authentic experience and a slower pace of travel”, MSC says.

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ROUND TWO FOR SCENIC’S YACHTS

In a show of confidence for the future of cruising and the luxury travel market, Scenic has started construction of Scenic Eclipse II, the sister ship to Scenic Eclipse, “the world’s most luxurious discovery yacht”. The beginning of production was announced at the keel-laying ceremony, with the Croatian Prime Minister in attendance. Scenic Eclipse II is a revolutionary luxury polar cruiser that’ll be worth more than $265 million when it launches in the Mediterranean in early 2023.

The yacht will be 168 metres long and accommodate 228 guests in six-star all-inclusive luxury. The rooms are all-verandah suites, there’ll be nine restaurants, eight lounges and bars, a spa, fitness areas, pools, a marina deck and even helicopters and a submarine.

Scenic Eclipse was the first venture into ocean cruising for Scenic, which has traditionally been known for luxury tours and river cruising. The ship was christened by Dame Helen Mirren in New York in 2019, and since then has undertaken many journeys, including 10 itineraries across Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands.

Scenic Eclipse II is set to be even more luxurious than its predecessor, as Scenic continues to innovate and create luxury cruising experiences.

Introducing Coral Geographer

Australian-flagged Coral Expeditions has unveiled a comprehensive domestic sailing schedule for 2022. The line has introduced additional coastal wilderness itineraries to replace international cruises.

Coral Expeditions has also opened bookings for its Kimberley season of April to September 2023. Among the new Kimberley itineraries are a 10-night journey between Darwin and Broome onboard Coral Geographer and new sailing dates for a 12-night cruise to Ashmore Reef, Adele Islands and the spectacular Rowley Shoals Marine Park departing on September 12, 24 and 28, 2022.

The line will also offer an 18-night itinerary on Coral Adventurer between Cairns and Broome departing on January 1 and 20 next year. Coral Geographer will also head south to cruise Australia’s Great Southern Coastline, sailing past the towering sandstone cliffs of Bunda as well as visiting the pristine marine outpost of the Archipelago of the Recherche. The 14-night itinerary from Melbourne to Fremantle onboard Coral Geographer will depart on 1 March 2022.

Coral Expeditions restarted sailings limited to under 100 passengers in October last year, operating under its strict SailSAFE and COVID-19 health protocols. It has sailed 51 incident-free voyages since restarting operations late last year.

BUBBLE TRAVEL

Australians will soon be able to cruise from New Zealand and the South Pacific, after luxury French line Ponant revealed bubble sailings from November 2021 to early 2023.

The push to get Australians back onboard is an ingenious idea by Ponant, as Australia is yet to lift its cruising ban.

There are 14 voyages focused on New Zealand and beyond, varying from seven to 21 nights, with departures from November 2021. Heading north of New Zealand on board Le Lapérouse, you’ll visit the former penal settlement of Norfolk Island en-route to explore the exotic isles of New Caledonia, including the dreamy Isle of Pines and picture-perfect Lifou in the Loyalty archipelago.

“From the remote Subantarctic Islands to spectacular fjords and fascinating Maori traditions, these voyages offer an eclectic mix of culture and nature that makes travelling to this land of the long white cloud a unique experience,” says Ponant’s Deb Corbett.

cruisepassenger.com.au 13 CRUISE NEWS

Norwegian Prima

Size and design

The Norwegian Prima will be 294 metres long, come in at 142,500 gross tons and can host 3,215 guests at double occupancy.

Norwegian Cruise Line partnered with world-renowned architects, including Italian designer Piero Lissoni and Tillberg Design of Sweden, to design passenger areas with generous decks, creating the ”industry’s most spacious new cruise ship”.

The vessel will have a huge new open-air deck called Ocean Boulevard, a 4,090 square metre space with two infinity pools, a sculpture garden, viewing decks and more.

Accommodation

The Norwegian Prima is packed with options, with seven different levels of accommodation available. Even the most modest studios are still extremely luxurious, and you can upgrade your way to bigger rooms with better views, like the club balcony suite.

However, if you’re really craving the most lavish of luxury, head to The Haven. Private elevators will sneak you away to secluded luxury where personal concierges and butlers will attend to your every desire. You can sink into an infinity pool or the outdoor sauna, and enjoy exclusive restaurants and lounges.

Dining

Norwegian Prima will have a brand-new Indulge Food Hall, an upscale open-air eatery hub with options such as a Tapas Food Truck, The Latin Quarter and Nudls, serving noodle dishes from around the world. There will be three more restaurants on Ocean Boulevard: the Italian Onda by Scarpetta, the Mexican Los Lobos and classic American Local Bar & Grill. More information is still to come on further dining options, but it’s already looking amazing.

Entertainment and facilities

Information is still coming out about the entertainment and facilities, but it’s clearly going to be luxurious. We know there’ll be multiple infinity pools scattered around the vessel, as well as all the expected lavishness of Ocean Boulevard.

Itinerary and price

Norwegian Prima has itineraries across the Caribbean, Northern Europe, the Baltics, transatlantic and even a New York to Bermuda journey.

A Norwegian Prima eight night Caribbean voyage starts from $3,233.

BEYOND VS PRIMA

HEAD TO HEAD

Celebrity

When Celebrity Edge began sailing in 2018, Celebrity Cruises sent a challenge to the cruising world. The ship was fitted head to toe with innovative design that was crafted through 3D virtual reality technology, setting a new standard for cruise. Celebrity followed this up with the announcement of a second vessel in the Celebrity Edge fleet, Celebrity Apex, equipped with a range of new features to elevate the fleet to the next level and ready to debut in 2021.

The line then stepped it up another gear in 2020, beginning construction of Celebrity Beyond, with promises it’d be both larger and more meticulously

CRUISE NEWS 14 cruisepassenger.com.au
Beyond and Norwegian Prima are set to hit the waves in 2022, both claiming new levels of luxury. Here’s how they compare.

designed that both Edge and Apex. However, Norwegian Cruise Lines has its answer, having unveiled Norwegian Prima It’s attempting to match and exceed all the innovation of the Celebrity Edge fleet and is definitely getting people excited, experiencing record bookings through its first week of sales. Norwegian Prima is set to begin the first of its voyages in August 2022.

With this in mind, and Celebrity Beyond and Norwegian Prima both clearly helping lead the way in cruise ship design and innovation, we compare the two head to head on different aspects of their design and onboard features.

Celebrity Beyond

Size and design

Celebrity Beyond is 327 metres long, comes in at 140,600 tons and can host 3,260 guests.

It has a striking outward-facing design playing host to the iconic Magic Carpet, a floating platform for guests that soars 13 storeys about sea level.

The ship has a majestic three-storey Grand Plaza, which has been reimagined to be larger and more grand than the ones on its sibling ships. There’s the sensory bliss of its garden-themed performance venue Eden and a huge resort deck that encompasses a rooftop garden, solarium pool and plenty more.

The design also evolves the Celebrity ‘parabolic ultra-bow’, which rises vertically towards the deck to reduce drag.

Accommodation

Celebrity Beyond has a range of premium accommodation, from inside staterooms fitted with luxurious cashmere mattresses all the way to service-centric concierge classrooms and The Retreat.

This is Celebrity Beyond’s exclusive section, with special access to a private restaurant, lounge and sundeck. The Iconic Suite is the crowning glory, at 176 square metres and with lush furnishings and panoramic ocean views. However, there are a few slightly less opulent, yet still completely spectacular, suites to pick from.

Dining

Full information about Celebrity Beyond’s dining is yet to be revealed, although we do know that, like Celebrity Apex, it will have four complimentary main restaurants. Luminae will return as an exclusive restaurant for The Retreat. And renowned chef Daniel Boulud has created his first-ever restaurant at sea, Le Voyage.

Entertainment and facilities

Main: the Oceanwalk glass bridge on the Norwegian Prima. Inset: the infinity pool on Norwegian Prima. Right: the outdoor dining on Celebrity Beyond

Celebrity Beyond will be brimming with entertainment, bringing back and reimagining the known and loved Grand Plaza as well as the unique sea experience of the Magic Carpet. There’ll be extensive shopping options, a huge onboard casino, classy venue The Club and The Theatre on Beyond.

Itinerary and price

Celebrity Beyond has itineraries around the Caribbean, Mediterranean, Western Europe, Bahamas and Mexico and more. An Eastern Caribbean eight-night itinerary begins at a currently reduced rate of $2,834.

CRUISE NEWS cruisepassenger.com.au 15

MONEY NO OBJECT

The owner of luxury line Crystal Cruises caused a stir recently by claiming his new ship had the most expensive suite at sea.

When Crystal Cruises launched Crystal Endeavor in a glittering ceremony attended by top German politicians recently, owner Tan Sri Lim Kok Thay couldn’t resist a proud boast. His ship, he said, was the most expensive per night at sea.

“The most luxurious and expensive ship ever built at $20,000 per gross ton, she sets a new high standard in luxury cruising, including the largest space ratio, at over 100 gross tons per guest, and, most importantly, the highest staff-to-guest ratio in the industry at one-to-one.”

With prices of more than $7,000 per night, Mr Tan Sri Lim’s claim seems to ring true. An upcoming 10-night Crystal Endeavor voyage in Iceland costs from A$71,398, or $7,139 a night. Twelve nights in the Arctic aboard the luxury discovery yacht Scenic Eclipse comes in at $15,400. At a mere $1,283 a night, it’s a steal. But there are plenty of other contenders when money is no object.

/ THE OWNER’S SUITE ON SILVER ORIGIN

Described as “truly the apex of luxury,” the Owner’s Suite packs in a whirlpool bath that gazes over the ocean and a vast verandah where the wind can give your hair a private massage. You’ll be wrapped in plush robes and slippers, have a walk-in wardrobe, two large flat-screen TVs, and complimentary expedition gear.

Price: On a Silversea Expedition World Cruise, the owner’s suite starts from $147,100 per person for 167 nights.

/ THE REGENT SUITE

At the top of Regent’s Seven Seas Splendor and Seven Seas Explorer lies the 412 square-metre Regent Suite.

You’ll be having sweet dreams in a $267,000 Vividus bed on Splendor, or the $200,000 Savoir bed on Explorer Then there are the three walk-in wardrobes, an in-suite spa with a sauna, steam room and jacuzzi, a private solarium and the services of a personal butler. The lush decor includes original Pablo Picasso lithographs and a custom Steinway grand piano by Dakota Jackson.

Price: For a 14-night Miami to Miami round trip, the Regent Suite costs $103,660 per person.

/ CRYSTAL PENTHOUSE ON CRYSTAL SERENITY

In Crystal Serenity’s Crystal Penthouse, you’ll have complimentary in-suite dining, a luxurious master bedroom and an ocean-view bathroom with a Jacuzzi. Maybe the most impressive feature is the incredibly spacious verandah, which runs the entire length of the room, leaving plenty of outdoor space for armchairs, an accompanying ottoman and an outdoor table.

Price: For a 116-night Miami round trip, the Crystal Penthouse will cost you $324,588.

/ GRAND WINTERGARDEN SUITE

If you splash some big cash and climb onto the Seabourn Ovation or Seabourn Encore, you could be enjoying the Grand Wintergarden Suite and its more than 120 square metres of pure perfection. A sculptural staircase guides you to the master bedroom. Here you’ll find a roll-out TV that moves away on command to gift you with ocean views.

From top: a luxe suite on a Ponant ship; butler service is included in many of the high-end suites on offer across cruise lines; the two-bedroom Owner’s Suite on Crystal Endeavor

Price: A 24-night voyage to Antarctica and Patagonia will set you back around $53,000.

/ OWNER’S SUITE ON LE COMMANDANT-CHARCOT

Ponant’s Le Commandant-Charcot is not only one of the first ships of its kind to be powered by liquefied natural gas, but it’s also a luxury-lover’s dream. Its glamorous Owner’s Suite is packed out with an expansive private terrace, complete with a Jacuzzi and sunbeds. The suite’s 180-square-metre terrace offers panoramic ocean views.

Price: A 14-night stay in the Owner’s Suite on an Antarctica expedition costs $104,830.

CRUISE NEWS
16 cruisepassenger.com.au

DISCOVER ANTARCTICA

Explore this wild and wonderful frozen continent and see penguins, whales, and seals in their natural habitat.

Antarctica Cruises

The white continent

As a travel experience, nothing compares to Antarctica. Here, the elements rule and exploring this vast, white continent will seem daring and extreme to many. And that’s exactly why you’ll want to go.

Active exploration

You won’t simply wave at Antarctica from the ship as you sail past it. Instead, you’ll join our experienced Expedition Team to go on

landings ashore, on small boat cruises in the area, and on optional activities like kayaking, snowshoeing and maybe even camping.

Knowledge and wildlife

Our Expedition Team will be there to guide and enhance everything you see and experience, sharing their insights on geology, climate change, polar history, and the unique wildlife of whales, seals, seabirds and penguins. Antarctica is waiting for you.

The sustainable choice

World’s first hybridpowered ships and lowest CO2 footprint of all expedition voyages to region

Departures in 2022 and 2023

12 days cruise $8834* From only

Book now

Find your expedition cruise at hurtigruten.com.au Hurtigruten Digital Magazine *Terms and Conditions apply. Visit hurtigruten.com.au for full terms and conditions.

FROM LAND TO SEA

Viking is to offer longer cruise itineraries and extended land tours to satisfy the pent-up desire among travellers wanting to spend more quality time holidaying abroad.

Based on its latest survey, Viking said that guests are looking for “longer itineraries, more opportunities to explore and discover a destination, and a more in-depth experience”.

Viking is now offering a 20-day Israel, Egypt and Jordan holiday including a 12-day Pharaohs & Pyramids cruise, four nights in Jerusalem and four nights in Jordan. The holiday will give travellers the unbelievable experience of cruising the mighty Nile, taking in Egypt’s ancient monuments and pyramids and Aswan’s spice markets. In Jerusalem, they will learn about Israel’s ancient history and vibrant culture, while in Jordan they will explore the lost city of Petra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Viking is also offering a 32-day holiday from Barcelona in Spain to Cappadocia in Turkey, including a 29-day Mediterranean cruise and three nights in Cappadocia, one of Turkey’s most popular natural wonders and prime tourist attraction. Holidaymakers will be taken to the coastal gems of the Mediterranean, visiting vibrant cities, sun-kissed beaches, charming fishing ports from Spain and major cities like Istanbul.

PACIFIC DAWN SEES A NEW DAY

P&O’s Pacific Dawn has resurfaced as the 1,400-passenger Ambience under a new cruise line Ambassador, led by the UK leadership team from the former Cruise & Maritime Voyages line (CMV), which went into administration last year. The venture is headed by chief executive Christian Verhounig, formerly of CMV.

Ambience will debut next year, offering short cruises from Tilbury to Hamburg from April 6. After her short maiden season, the 30-year-old vessel will cruise to the Arctic, the Baltics, Greenland and Iceland with a variety of itineraries. In summer, she will offer voyages to the Canary Islands, Cape Verde, the Caribbean, Cuba and Scandinavia.

Prices for a seven-night European cruise will start from $1,500 per person. Ambassador Cruise Line is backed by the London-based private equity firm Njord Partners. CMV cruise line went into administration in December last year, selling its UK-assets to CVI Group, a company owned by Mr Verhounig. The assets included customer-based databases, computer systems and intellectual property. Before CMV stopped trading, it operated five ships, including sailings in Australia.

CRUISE NEWS
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SUZI FANS BOOKING 2022

Music specialist Choose Your Cruise has scratched its 2021 Royal Caribbean charter season and is focusing on 2022 instead.

Choose Your Cruise’s Caitlin Manov told Cruise Passenger stars like Suzi Quatro were disappointed, but were standing by the operation as a highlight of their concert seasons. Tens of thousands of Australian

DINE MY WAY LAUNCHES

Princess Cruises has unveiled a new way for guests to pre-plan and tailor their dining experiences. The new Dine My Way experience gives guests the option to make reservations at onboard dining rooms and specialty restaurants at times they prefer and with whom they wish to dine.

Dine My Way also helps to optimise capacities in onboard dining rooms and restaurants and manage wait times, giving guests significantly more flexibility, the company said. “Instead of restricting dining choices during the pandemic, we’ve been able to expand the options for our guests and, thanks to the unique, innovative capabilities of the OceanMedallion, eliminate the need to stand in line,” said Jan Swartz, Princess Cruises president. In addition, Princess’s OceanNow on-demand menu has been expanded to include entrees and beverage options from restaurants throughout the ship.

music fans have attended the concerts over more than a decade. But the pandemic has meant the cruises were cancelled in 2020, and it’s happened this year as well.

“Fans have been lovely and very understanding,” said Ms Manov. Bookings would be transferred to the new dates in 2022, on board Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas from November 9 to 16. The seven-night charter of Ovation of the Seas will host both the Cruisin’ Country and Rock the Boat events with a line-up of performers such as Suzi Quatro, Lee Kernaghan and John Williamson.

Celebrities back cruise

Celebrity chef Luke Mangan has called on the government for a clear pathway to restart cruising in Australian waters. “It’s going to take at least three months or so to get ships up and ready and to get them ready for people to cruise again.

“I know for a fact the cruise companies will only operate these ships and cruises when things are safe and done properly on board.”

And this means getting passengers and crew vaccinated before they can board the ships. Mr Mangan was part of a team, led by Carnival Australia, who recently went to Canberra to lobby government officials for clarity on restarting Australian cruising.

CRUISE NEWS
cruisepassenger.com.au 19

From pole to pole

You can now sail from the Arctic to Antarctica on truly epic cruises.

Hurtigruten has announced an incredible 93-day cruise spanning Alaska, the Caribbean, the Northwest Passage, Greenland, the Panama Canal, South America and Antarctica, along with a new 66-day expedition from the Arctic to Antarctica.

Hurtigruten Expeditions CEO Asta Lassesen said: “These extraordinary expedition cruises will offer more bucket-list destinations and once-in-a-lifetime experiences than we have ever before offered in one voyage. They will showcase some of the most spectacular nature and wildlife of our planet and offer authentic encounters with unique cultures.”

MS Roald Amundsen will depart from Vancouver on August 8, 2022 and pass through 11 countries and Antarctica on its way to Buenos Aires.

The cruise will go through the isolated Aleutian Islands on the Alaskan Peninsula, as well as the deserted St Matthew Island, before crossing the Arctic Circle and setting sail for the Northwest Passage to Greenland and Baffin Island. Further stops on the way to Buenos Aires will include Belize,

YOUR 93-DAY ITINERARY

Here are just some of the highlights of a trip of a lifetime.

Nicaragua, the Panama Canal and South America, as well as Antarctica.

There’s even an extra element of adventure onboard, as you can fill your days feeling like David Attenborough as you mingle with passengers, crew and researchers in the Amundsen Science Centre, which is filled with interactive tech and science equipment.

Also hanging out here will be Hurtigruten’s Expedition team, which is comprised of handpicked cruise hosts spanning conservationists, journalists, oceanographers, anthropologists and more, all ready to share their knowledge and experience.

Not only will you be gazing over some of the most unique landscapes and regions on Earth, but you’ll also be gaining a true understanding of these areas informed by experts.

Terje Johnny Willassen, one of the two masters who will be captaining MS Roald Amundsen on the voyage, spoke excitedly about the announcement.

“Exploring some of the most remote and unique waters of the world for 93 or 66 days, some only accessible by small expedition ships like ours, make these guests true modern explorers. These are exceptional opportunities that only very, very few people get to experience.”

On days two to 17 expect to be spotting bears and cruising past active volcanoes as you explore the most remote corners of Alaska. After cruising through the Arctic Circle and passing the international date line, you’ll explore the Northwest Passage for 10 days. Days 33 to 40 will be all about Greenland and the Atlantic as you get up close to Ilulissat Icefjord, where colourful Scandinavian homes meet picture-perfect icebergs. As you sail through to Canada, highlights include Lunenburg in Nova Scotia and the cobbled streets of Boston. By day 53 you’ll be all prepped to explore the Caribbean. Passing through Florida you’ll then make your way to Belize, Colombia and Nicaragua.

The historic Panama Canal will be the next stop, before immersing yourself in the rich culture and natural beauty of Ecuador, Peru and Chile.

Some of the most memorable moments will include viewing the historical Nazca Lines in Peru, stepping into the endless sands of the Atacama Desert in Chile, and snapping photos in the unbelievably colourful and charming town of Valparaiso, also in Chile.

From here on in, nothing but wilderness exploring will be on your mind as you make it to Patagonia. After 87 days of daily moments that will live with you forever, the highlight will come right at the end as you arrive in Antarctica, before you end the journey in the beautiful city of Buenos Aires.

20 cruisepassenger.com.au CRUISE NEWS
Top: A Hurtigruten landing on the ice in Antarctica. Above: At Orne Harbour in Antarctica.
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AUSTRALIA NEEDS TO END ITS INACTION

HEALTH EXPERT SAYS CRUISE CAN COME BACK

One of Australia’s leading experts in communicable diseases says cruise can now return safely with new health protocols – even before the national vaccination program is completed.

Dr Ian Norton told Cruise Passenger: “As long as we cruise within the Australian bubble with Australian passengers, stopping at Australian ports, the risks of contracting COVID-19 virus has dropped significantly.

“Honestly, we have managed the health risks remarkably well. The risk of community transmission is very low. Today, it is not a problem,” Dr Norton said before the Delta variant emerged.

Dr Norton is the founder and managing director of Respond Global. He was head of WHO’s Emergency Medical Team Initiative in Geneva from 2014 to 2020, during which time he led responses to Ebola, diphtheria and measles outbreaks in various countries.

He is also an external expert advising several cruise lines on their health and safety protocols. These include Coral Expeditions, Ponant, APT, Aurora Expeditions, MSC and P&O Carnival.

Dr Norton said there was no need to wait for the vaccine rollout to be completed, so long as the protocols were adhered to sailing vessels in Australian waters with Australian crews.

“We will never be in a position where all Australians are vaccinated, because children in Australia are not vaccinated,” he explained.

Coral Expeditions has been cruising safely in Australian waters for months, because it has introduced strict health protocols and screening for all passengers and crew members.

And with the opening of the trans-Tasman bubble, Dr Norton does not see any problems for cruise ships to sail to New Zealand, as long as the vessel is COVID-free and all passengers and crew have been tested.

He maintained it does not matter if the cruise line is an international brand or Australian-flagged: as long as the correct protocols are followed, the ship can cruise safely around Australia.

Currently, only APT and Coral Expeditions are sailing the region, with Ponant and Silversea revealing they have had to delay their sailings to later this year. The federal and state governments have so far not given any guidance as to whether they will give permission.

The Kimberley touring season will be a critical test for the cruise industry, which is pressing hard for a resumption of phased sailings, moving beyond the current 150 passenger-and-crew limit as more journeys are safely completed.

Currently, the Northern Territory has limited the total number of passengers and crew to 150 for cruise ships sailing its coastline, and there cannot be more than two ships in port at the same time. Excursions in the NT have also been confined to historical sites, without any interaction with local guides and the Indigenous community.

“The 150 people limit is very low and not viable for many expeditions and smaller cruise lines. But it is a window of hope. I think the number of passengers should be increased to 250 and eventually to 1,000 to cruise safely in Australia,” said Dr Norton.

Around the world, more than half a million people have now set sail aboard cruises that operate under the strict new health protocols our industry has created in response to COVID-19. Frustratingly, we are now the only major cruise market in the world where governments have made no progress towards resumption.

Despite an enormous amount of work by our industry over many months, the Australian Government recently extended its cruise suspension without any firm plan for moving forward.

What we need now from government is a detailed framework that will allow cruise lines to implement these protocols in Australia and work towards a tightly managed resumption in the near future.

Cruising is worth more than $5 billion a year to the local economy and supports more than 18,000 jobs. We need to break the cycle of inaction in Australia and join the world in progressing responsible plans for cruising’s revival.

Visit www.cruising.org.au to find out more.

22 cruisepassenger.com.au CRUISE NEWS
Health expert Dr Ian Norton (centre).
cruisepassenger.com.au 23
IT’S NEVER TOO EARLY TO PLAN YOUR NEXT CRUISE BestCruises INSIDE 38 Picking up steam: European river cruising. 28 The best of Australian adventure itineraries. 24 Where to go when Australian cruising restarts.
The Viking Sun sails into Sydney.

BEST OF 2022: AUSTRALIAN CRUISING

Anchors aweigh for 2022

Cruising is set to restart in 2022. We review the many options for Australian departures.

Cruise enthusiasts have been drifting in the doldrums of late, but it seems fresh winds are now picking up as a flotilla of cruise ships gets ready for the 2022 Australian sailing season. And with everything from fun-filled megaships to luxury small ships and intrepid expedition vessels heading our way, there’s plenty of variety on the horizon.

The big players are all promising full Australian seasons. Among P&O Australia’s mix of domestic voyages are Barrier Reef Discovery cruises out of Brisbane; A Taste of Tasmania cruises from Adelaide; and a four-night cruise return from Adelaide that visits Port Lincoln and Kangaroo Island. Meanwhile, P&O’s South Pacific cruises, most out of Cairns and Sydney, will visit destinations such as New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea and Fiji. From Brisbane, a series of sevennight Pacific Island Hopper itineraries take in Noumea, Port Vila and Lifou, with several days at sea so guests can enjoy the entertainment and amenities of Pacific Encounter Princess Cruises is also anticipating a busy Australian season in Australia. Coral Princess is returning to Brisbane for Pacific island and Papua New Guinea cruises. Royal Princess and Majestic Princess will operate round-trip cruises to

New Zealand from Sydney, and Grand Princess from Melbourne.

There will also be Queensland, Tasmanian and Fiji cruises from eastern homeports, cruises from Adelaide and Fremantle, and a 28-day Round Australia circumnavigation in October 2022.

Royal Caribbean’s 2022–23 season Down Under features two high-tech Quantum-class ships. From October 2022, Quantum of the Seas sails from Brisbane to destinations in Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific. Ovation of the Seas sails from Sydney to Queensland, New Zealand and the South Pacific. Meanwhile, Radiance of the Seas has 22 departures from Sydney to destinations such as Great Barrier Reef, South Pacific, New Zealand and Tasmania. Also arriving towards the end of 2022 is Celebrity Eclipse. Between September 2022 and April 2023, it will offer itineraries ranging from two-night sampler cruises to 18-night voyages in the Pacific, departing from Sydney and Auckland. The ship overnights in Adelaide, Cairns and Hobart on some itineraries, has added Port Arthur as a

24 cruisepassenger.com.au

new port, and has 8pm departures from some ports that provide longer stays.

Tasmania is tipped to be an ever-more popular destination. Carnival Cruise Line is offering Tasmanian cruises on both its Australia-based ships. Carnival Splendor, homeported in Sydney, will also visit New Zealand in November 2022 before sailing to Papua New Guinea. Carnival Spirit, based in Brisbane, will operate three-day sampler crises and itineraries to the Great Barrier Reef, New Caledonia and Vanuatu.

Some large cruise lines are making brief Australian appearances. The newly renovated Norwegian Spirit will sail Sydney–Auckland and Sydney–Bali in March 2022, a 14-day voyage from Sydney to Papeete in April, and returns for a Sydney–Auckland cruise in December. Holland America’s Oosterdam cruises Sydney–Auckland in early 2022 before heading on to Seattle.

And Viking Cruises is sailing Sydney–Auckland cruises (or the reverse) in

January, February and December 2022 and Sydney–Bali (or the reverse) in March.

Those looking for smaller luxury ships won’t be disappointed, either. Crystal Symphony sails Melbourne to Sydney via New Zealand in January, then Sydney–Bali. Crystal Serenity sails from Auckland to Fremantle in February.

Regent Seven Seas’ inaugural season here starts at the end of 2022, when Explorer sails from Singapore to Sydney, followed by Sydney–Auckland itineraries.

Seabourn Odyssey visits from December 2022 to March 2023, with five 16-day voyages between Sydney and Auckland, and a 16-day Queensland Coast and Orchard Isles voyage from Sydney to Bali.

Meanwhile, most of Oceania’s New Zealand cruises from Sydney in early 2022 are already sold out, but Regatta sails an Aussie Adventure circumnavigation in December 2022.

As for expedition cruising, the most varied Australian choices come from Coral Expeditions, including extended Kimberley

sailing dates aboard new vessel Coral Geographer, a new 18-night Across the Top expedition between Broome and Cairns (or the reverse) in January 2022, and a new 14-night Great Southern Coastline cruise from Melbourne to Fremantle in March.

Ponant has two expedition ships in the Kimberley between March and September 2022, followed by Papua New Guinea cruises from Darwin and Cairns, and an east-coast cruise to Sydney. It then offers a Tasmanian itinerary over Christmas and New Year.

Silversea also returns for a Kimberley season. Silver Shadow will sail from Cairns to Melbourne in January 2022, followed by New Zealand itineraries from Sydney and Melbourne.

The most adventurous expedition offering is Aurora Expeditions’ all-new voyages from Hobart aboard Greg Mortimer to the Ross Sea and Commonwealth Bay in East Antarctica. These voyages will run until March 2022.

It’s the first time that the polar specialist has sailed to this part of the Antarctic, where it will provide its usual adventurous excursions such as kayaking and polar snorkelling. The cruise also visits Australia’s remote Macquarie Island and New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands.

cruisepassenger.com.au 25
From left: Enjoying the swimming pool on a P&O Australia ship; Oceania Cruises’ Oceania in Sydney Harbour; the Captain’s Suite on Aurora Expeditions’ Greg Mortimer; the restaurant on Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer Inset: A Coral Expeditions beach landing in Tasmania.
The most adventurous expedition offering is Aurora Expeditions’ new voyages from Hobart aboard Greg Mortimer to the Ross Sea.”

CORAL EXPEDITIONS

HIGHLIGHTS OF 2022

With a tropical expedition fleet purposedesigned for sailing Australia’s diverse coastline, highlights of Coral Expeditions’ 2022 program include an 18-night ‘Across the Top’ journey. On this expedition you’ll explore some of the most remote coastal regions in the country, including pristine offshore reefs and islands across the top of the Australian continent.

New to our Kimberley season is a series of 10 cruise dates aboard Coral Geographer, adding over 1,200 berths of availability through April to June. An expedition adventure to the Kimberley coast, known as Australia’s last frontier, is a true bucket-list experience for any Australian adventurer. Here you’ll encounter majestic waterfalls, epic tidal flows, unique bird and marine species, ancient Aboriginal art sites and magnificent rock escarpments shaping this quintessential experience.

In the company’s 26th season in the Kimberley, our all-Australian crew shares their knowledge and connection with the land, people and nature as only locals can.

A new Kimberley Icons, Ashmore & the Rowley Shoals itinerary combines Kimberley highlights with the addition of remote Ashmore Reef, Adele Island and the spectacular Rowley Shoals Marine Park, where you can enjoy water activities including snorkelling and diving. There’s been no better time to seek solace on the Australian coastline.

26 cruisepassenger.com.au BEST OF 2022: AUSTRALIA

OUR SHIPS

Offering a unique style of immersive expedition adventures, Coral Expeditions is Australia’s longest established expedition cruise operator. From pioneering environmentally sensitive cruises on the Great Barrier Reef 35 years ago, the ocean-going fleet of small tropical expedition ships now features the yacht-like Coral Discoverer and the brand-new flagship sister ships Coral Adventurer and Coral Geographer

Purpose-built for expedition cruising, Coral Expeditions’ vessels have a shallow draught, allowing access to remote locations that larger vessels cannot reach. Signature Xplorer tender vessels, glass-bottom boats and Zodiac tenders enable you to explore the coastlines up close. Expansive indoor and outdoor spaces immerse you in the spectacular natural surroundings, supported by an expert expedition team, including specialist guest lecturers who provide insightful commentary and interpretation along the way.

Headquartered in Cairns, Coral Expeditions offers expedition cruises to the Great Barrier Reef, the Kimberley coastline, Western Australia’s Coral Coast, Tasmania, Cape York and Arnhem Land and South Australia.

International voyages to New Zealand, New Guinea and islands of the Pacific and Indian Oceans are planned to resume in 2023. Keep track of updates on our website – www.coralexpeditions.com.

HEALTH & SAFETY

Approved SailSAFE plan In partnership with medical advisors Respond Global, Coral Expeditions’ SailSAFE health protocols are fully approved by all state authorities.

COVID Testing Precruise All guests must take a COVID-19 PCR test 72 to 48 hours prior to boarding. Evidence of your negative result is required on check-in.

MY TOP PICKS

Jamie Anderson, expedition leader

1

Across the Top

This fascinating voyage combines the very best of Australia’s northern coastline, exploring the Great Barrier Reef, the tip of Australia at Cape York, the Arnhem Land coast and the rarely visited Tiwi Islands. Venture ashore to meet Indigenous artisans in some of the most remote villages in Australia.

2

Kimberley Icons, Ashmore & Rowley Shoals

This new voyage is the trip of a lifetime, combining an adventurous exploration of Australia’s iconic Kimberley coastline with a visit to the spectacular Rowley Shoals Marine Park and Ashmore Reef, a diving and snorkelling wonderland.

3

Wild Islands & Walks of South Australia Wild and isolated, this adventurous expedition stops at national parks scattered along the raw and rugged Southern Ocean coast. This voyage offers spectacular hikes, wildlife sanctuaries and freshly harvested oysters.

4

Torres Strait & Cape York

Some 300 islands dot the narrow stretch between Cape York and Papua New Guinea. This enriching expedition is the ideal way to encounter vibrant island communities.

5

Australian-flagged

Small Ships With Australian and New Zealand crew, and groups of less than 100 guests, we provide a safe and comfortable environment.

Coastal Wilds of Tasmania

A true immersion of the senses, this voyage takes you well away from the tourist trail to showcase the hidden wonders, the stories, and the people who make Tasmania special.

coralexpeditions.com

Proven Track Record

We’ve operated 50 incident-free voyages since restarting in October 2020, taking small groups far off the beaten track on naturebased expeditions.

cruisepassenger.com.au 27 LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT

Aussie, Aussie, Aussie

There are so many natural wonders to be discovered on an Australian adventure cruise – like ancient Kimberley landscapes.

We are indeed a lucky country to have so many adventure destinations at our doorstep. So what’s in store for us as we look to 2022 and beyond and prepare to embark on an adventure cruise?

Australian-flagged small operator Coral Expeditions takes great pride in offering unique voyages that attract like-minded explorers to visit pristine Aussie destinations, experience authentic face-to-face encounters with nature and call at uninhabited islands and rugged inlets inaccessible to larger vessels.

From March to October 2022, three of Coral’s expedition ships – Coral Adventurer, Coral Discoverer and Coral Geographer – will explore the vast wilderness of the Kimberley coast, taking in the region’s raw and rugged beauty. Here passengers will learn about the

world’s oldest living culture, as local Aboriginals explain their connection to 60,000-year-old rock art. From watching the majestic Horizontal Falls to spotting crocodiles basking on the shoreline, guests will also learn about the massive tidal movements from experienced expedition leaders.

Coral offers 10-night itineraries from Broome to Darwin or vice versa, with bookings for next year and 2023 now open. There's also a 12-night voyage combining the iconic destinations of Kimberley with visits to the spectacular Rowley Shoals Marine Park and Ashmore Reef to witness the silent, secluded gorges and abundant wildlife, as well as to indulge in some of the best snorkelling and diving experiences in the world.

Luxury French line Ponant is also offering expeditions to the Kimberley during the April to September season in 2022, with Le Lapérouse and Le Soléal departing from either Darwin or Broome offering 10-night itineraries. The 184-passenger Le Lapérouse has a

10-night expedition cruise to the Kimberley departing Broome on April 18, 2022, where you will sail to the Hunter River to see magnificent mangrove forests where saltwater crocodiles thrive.

When the ship visits Collier Bay you’ll be blown away by the amazing Montgomery Reef, home to lagoons and immense coral reefs.

Next year will also see the return of luxury line Silversea’s 144-passenger Silver Explorer in Australian waters, which will offer 10-day expedition cruises to the Kimberley departing from Darwin or Broome.

Silver Explorer, a purpose-built luxury expedition ship designed to navigate remote destinations, has 12 Zodiacs, allowing guests to hike on off-thebeaten tracks onshore, accompanied by an experienced expedition team. There’s a 10-day itinerary to the Kimberley departing Darwin on June 4 next year.

The cruise will stop at King George Falls, one of Kimberley’s magnificent natural wonders, where you can go hiking to the top of the waterfall. The waterfall about 100 metres high – if you make it all the way you can reward yourself with a dip in the natural pool at the top.

BEST OF 2022: LUXURY EXPEDITIONS
28 cruisepassenger.com.au
Exploring the Great Barrier Reef with Coral Expeditions. Below: Coral Discoverer in Tasmania.

PONANT

MY TOP PICKS

1

Australia’s iconic Kimberley The Kimberley Coast is one of the world’s most spectacular coastlines. Home to billionyear-old landscapes, ancient rock art, spectacular tidal phenomena, and the world’s largest population of migrating humpback whales, the wild lands of the Kimberley promise an exceptional adventure!

2

HIGHLIGHTS OF 2022

Set sail with PONANT on an exceptional luxury expedition to explore the coastline of our beautiful country, or voyage across the Tasman to explore all that New Zealand and the Subantarctic Islands have to offer. PONANT is taking guests further in 2022, with voyages to discover the surreal landscapes of Antarctica’s Ross Sea, ancient cultures of Papua New Guinea, and the Indonesian archipelago on a brand-new voyage from Kimberley to Bali.

OUR SHIPS

On board the world’s youngest fleet of luxury expedition small ships, you'll experience a refined and personalised atmosphere, including French-inspired cuisine, an open bar, 24-hour room service, spa facilities, outdoor pool and complimentary WiFi. Adding to the French touch on board, guests can indulge in various French luxury products throughout their voyage, such as Veuve Clicquot champagne, Ladurée macarons and Hermès bathroom amenities.

HEALTH & SAFETY

Mandatory Testing

Before travelling, all guests and crew members are tested and subject to a COVID-safe access protocol with medical checks and screening.

Entering A COVIDSafe Zone Boarding for all guests and crew is controlled to comply with the COVID-safe zone protocol, using a disinfection tunnel.

3

NEW! The Kimberley to Bali Explore the iconic landscapes and wildlife of the rugged Kimberley Coast before sailing on to TimorLeste and the magnificent Indonesian archipelago to discover ancient traditions, spectacular coral reefs and the famous Komodo National Park.

New Zealand’s South Island Unearth the natural gems of the South Island, including the majestically carved fiords of Milford, Dusky and Doubtful sounds. Encounter wildlife at Akaroa, Kaikoura, Ulva Island and the remarkable subantarctic Snares Islands.

4

Antarctica’s Ross Sea from New Zealand

Explore one of the most extreme and pristine regions of Antarctica on a voyage from New Zealand, with surreal landscapes and incredible wildlife.

5

Onboard Monitoring

Onboard spaces are regularly cleaned and disinfected. Ventilated air is continuously renewed in all public areas. And crew wear masks or visors.

Papua New Guinea

Be ready for a myriad of ancient cultures, breathtaking scenery, and unspoilt tropical hideaways. Here, an encounter with the local people reveals their exceptionally friendly nature.

For more information or to book, visit: au.ponant.com

Monitored Excursions

Excursions only take place in regions that are COVID-safe. Zodiacs are disinfected after each use, and guests must comply with health protection instructions.

cruisepassenger.com.au 29 BEST OF 2022: LUXURY EXPEDITIONS

ISLAND TIME

Australians have long had a love affair with the South Pacific. Fiji may be known as the Isle of Smiles, but really it’s a description that could be applied to the whole region, which is known for its warm communities, idyllic landscapes and fantastic water sports.

The appeal for both families and couples is the South Pacific is just a stone’s throw from Australia’s major cruising hubs of Brisbane and Sydney. There are 13 island nations with plenty of undiscovered coves and bays for the inner adventurer.

A cruise holiday is an ideal way to get an overview of the South Pacific. Aside from the idyllic landscapes, the region’s temperate climate makes it a year-round cruise destination, with lines like P&O Cruises and Carnival Cruise Line

visiting even during the winter months. Contemporary and premium lines offer three- to 14-day itineraries to places like Fiji, New Caledonia and Vanuatu. Luxury lines such as Ponant, Silversea, Seabourn and Crystal Cruises offer bespoke itineraries during which you’ll visit lesser-known ports in the South Pacific.

Fiji is one of the most visited cruise destinations in the South Pacific. It’s comprised of more than 300 islands, of which the two major islands are Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. It offers up rugged landscapes, palm-lined beaches and some of the most pristine coral reefs in the entire world.

The French territory of New Caledonia has beautiful small islands, including the Isle of Pines, and is also known for its palm-lined beaches and the world’s largest lagoon.

An extensive barrier reef surrounds the main island, and, like its neighbouring countries of Fiji and Vanuatu, New Caledonia is a scuba diver’s paradise.

The capital Noumea is home to French-influenced restaurants and luxury boutiques selling Parisian fashion.

Smaller and luxury cruise lines will visit lesser-known ports around the South Pacific. Figure-eight shaped Tahiti is the largest island in French Polynesia. With black-sand beaches, lagoons, waterfalls and two extinct volcanoes, it’s a popular destination for remote cruises. Papeete, on the north of the island, is the capital of French Polynesia and features on longer cruise itineraries around the Pacific.

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Sandy white beaches, crystal-clear waters and family fun are among the reasons the South Pacific reigns over the hearts of Australian cruisers.
BEST OF 2022: THE PACIFIC
Above and right: Encounter Papua New Guinea locals during a Ponant cruise. Top: A Ponant ship cruising French Polynesia.

Secrets of the East

Asian nations, with their wealth of history and five-star hospitality, are popular fly-cruise options for Australian cruisers.

The allure of Asia, with its diverse destinations and cultures, has become a major fly-cruise option for many Australians and New Zealanders. Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan have become major cruise hubs, with lines like Princess Cruises, Royal Caribbean and Dream Cruises homeporting year-round. But the waterways of Vietnam, Myanmar and Cambodia also play host to river lines such as Viking, Avalon Waterways and homegrown lines like Pandaw.

Singapore rightly claims the title of the region’s cruise hub, with lines such as Princess Cruises, Royal Caribbean and Dream Cruises homeporting year-round.

The city pioneered the resumption of Asian cruises in 2020 with its short “cruises to nowhere” continuing through 2021, carrying eager Singaporean families. The government welcomed Dream Cruises and Royal Caribbean, and offered considerable help to keep them cruising.

The Lion City is famous for its shopping, beautiful hotels, delicious hawker food and family-friendly atmosphere, making it perfect for pre- and post-cruise breaks. And in 2022, cruises will sail from Singapore to Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia on a number of short and longer itineraries.

Most lines will be offering two- or five-day itineraries. Premium and luxury cruise lines such as Celebrity Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn, Silversea and Crystal Cruises will sail from Australia on longer voyages around the region.

Malaysia is one of the most popular countries to visit. With ports including Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Langkawi, the country has a rich colonial history, stunning beaches and lively wildlife, as well as excellent local food.

Singapore also plays host to one of the largest shipyards in the southern hemisphere, where vessels undergo major refurbishments. P&O’s new Pacific Encounter is due to sail from Singapore to Australia – a popular route with guests keen to try out newly refurbished ships.

Ports such as Hong Kong and Shanghai are also home to some of the world’s biggest ships, including Royal Caribbean’s technologically advanced Quantum of the Seas. They sail to popular destinations like Vietnam and Japan as well as the emerging destination of the Philippines.

With Filipino islands such as Boracay famous for their white sandy beaches and

snorkelling and diving, the Philippines is fast becoming a new favourite country to explore by cruise ship.

Japan’s north and south cruise regions are vastly different. Lines such as Princess Cruises and Royal Caribbean regularly sail to subtropical Okinawa in the south. They also sail to bustling Osaka (where you can make your way to Kyoto) and sprawling Tokyo to the north. The port city of Yokohama, with vibrant waterside parks and ramen museum, is just 40 minutes by express train from central Tokyo.

Adventure and small-ship cruising are fast becoming popular in Asia, with places such as Raja Ampat archipelago in Indonesia named as hot new destinations. Lines like Peregrine and Windstar Cruises will take you to the smaller and lesser-known ports on five-masted ships.

cruisepassenger.com.au 31 BEST OF 2022: ASIA
Above: Taking a Zodiac to explore the spectacular coastline during an Indonesian cruise. Left: A surreal scene in Thailand.

The neighbours who have it all

seafood such as abalone, oysters and scallops. Wash it down with legendary cool-climate wines or some edgy craft beer. Lovers of epic walks often swear that New Zealand is one of the best hiking destinations in the world. You can spend hours mountain-biking or paddling a canoe along spectacular wild rivers. The amazing attractions of the country have not escaped the attention of major cruise lines, with many offering itineraries of unbelievable value and variety across the Tasman Sea. French luxury line Ponant has a 11-night itinerary from Dunedin to Auckland aboard Le Lapérouse, which will explore fjords, hot springs, geysers, rivers, gorges, vineyards and lakes.

The cruise will also sail through the majestic Milford, Doubtful and Dusky sounds and take passengers to the Marlborough wine region. Prices start from $8,490 per person, departing January 7, 2022.

Princess has a 13-day cruise to New Zealand on Sapphire Princess departing Melbourne on January 10, 2022, with prices starting from $1,699 per person.

The land of the long white cloud is a well-loved cruise destination for Australians. With the New Zealand travel bubble, eager Aussies who can’t wait to sail find it the perfect place to plan their next adventure. With its spectacular scenery at the Fiordland National Park, great walks across rugged landscapes, the movie-making magic world of Lord of the Rings tours in Wellington and the famed Art Deco city of Napier, there’s an abundance of activities to keep travel-hungry cruisers entertained. And this before you taste some of the sublime sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, along with unbeatable, fresh Kiwi cuisine. Chefs in Auckland and Wellington draw on influences from South Pacific islands, Asia and Western Europe to create unbelievable dishes from local lamb and

Passengers will cruise to the heart of Fiordland National Park and experience Milford Sound set against steep mountains, then visit Dunedin, known as the Edinburgh of New Zealand, before calling at Christchurch, the country’s most English city. Then it’s on to windy Wellington, and Napier with its superb Spanish Mission, classical revival and Art Deco buildings.

Families with adventurous kids should consider the 12-night New Zealand cruise onboard Quantum of the Seas, with prices starting from $1,978 per person. It departs Brisbane on January 19, 2022. The cruise kicks off with a visit to the Bay of Islands, where, if you have a stiff stomach, you can try tandem skydiving with an instructor. The adrenaline-soaked experience will give you bragging rights for a long time.

32 cruisepassenger.com.au
New Zealand is at the top of the list when it comes to Australian cruisers. And with luxury, adventure and fine food and wine, that can’t be a surprise.
BEST OF 2022: NEW ZEALAND
Above: Kayaking in Milford Sound. Left: A Maori duo dances in Auckland.

BEST OF 2022: EUROPE

Why we love to sail Europe

Europe offers the best variety of cruising experiences anywhere – which explains why it’s Australia and New Zealand’s number-one intercontinental destination.

From the icy and intrepid waters of Greenland and Iceland to the colourful houses and pebbled beaches of the Mediterranean, the region remains the most popular fly-cruise destination for Australians.

Starting in the north, fast becoming a bucket-list itinerary is to explore Scandinavia and see the northern lights. Hurtigruten sails between Norwegian ports like Bergen and Tromsø, but also has specialty expedition cruises visiting the mythical volcanic landscapes of Iceland or encountering the rich marine life of Greenland. The line has new expedition itineraries ranging from 13 to 20 days that give cruisers an in-depth look into this undiscovered area.

Holland America Line, Celebrity Cruises, Princess, Royal Caribbean and Norwegian Cruise Line, as well as luxury

lines like Silversea and Ponant, frequent ports in Denmark and Finland as well as along the vast Russian coast.

Deluxe line Viking offers sailings ranging from eight to 27 days. Its new voyage, called the Viking Homelands & Majestic Iceland, is a 27-day itinerary from Stockholm in Sweden to Reykjavik in Iceland. Encompassing the rich history of cities like Tallinn in Estonia, juxtaposed with the sweeping views of the Norwegian fjords, the cruise gives guests the best of cosmopolitan hubs and natural wildlife.

Cunard and Princess have both recommenced sailings from the iconic British port of Southampton. For the 2021 European summer season, Cunard revealed a range of new shorter cruises exploring nearby ports, like Hamburg in Germany as well as Bruges in Belgium. Cunard has a special five-night Dutch Christmas Markets cruise sailing on board the decadent Queen Mary 2, where the glittering lights along Rotterdam’s Coolsingel and a visit to the chocolatefilled markets of Bruges are some of the

highlights. The Mediterranean is known for its iridescent blue water and sandy beaches. There is such diversity in the Mediterranean, where cruisers can experience the rich European history in port cities like Rome and Barcelona. With options ranging from the contemporary lines to the ultra-luxe, and from small ships to sailing yachts, a cruise in the Mediterranean can almost guarantee a fabulous holiday. Regent Seven Seas, for instance, is offering a 14-night cruise from Rome to Athens. The Historic Mediterranean Shore voyage visits places like Venice, Corfu, Montenegro, Turkey’s historical Ephesus, and Dubrovnik in Croatia. Made famous by the Game of Thrones as the setting for fictitious King’s Landing, with its marvelled city walls and stunning harbour setting, Dubrovnik is known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, and here guests will see unique marble-paved squares, impeccably restored houses, steep-cobbled streets and glorious fountains.

cruisepassenger.com.au 33
From the northern lights of Scandinavia to the bright sunshine of the Med, Europe remains one of the world’s top cruising destinations.
The Italian city of Venice, a perennial favourite with cruise aficionados.

Small world

Small-ship cruising is the discerning traveller’s way to see more of the world, taking you to petite ports – and even the far ends of the Earth – in considerable style.

Even open-minded travellers sometimes have their blinkers on when it comes to cruising. The cruise stereotype is one of megaships, pool parties and predictable destinations, as if cruising is the maritime equivalent of resort hotels and tour groups. Perhaps we all need a reminder that cruising is as diverse as any other kind of travel. Some cruise ships are more akin to boutique hotels. Some might even be compared to wilderness retreats, with the added bonus that the wilderness setting changes each day.

Small ships might carry a mere 30 passengers or several hundred; certainly not the thousands of the popular cruise imagination. They can be budget or luxury. Some are tall ships, some sleek megayachts, others traditional cruise ships.

They might make their way around the Mediterranean, or take you to the far reaches of Russia’s Kamchatka peninsula among volcanoes and bears.

The variety of small-ship cruises is getting ever more interesting. The sector was expanding pre-pandemic, a trend that looks set to continue. The coming year

sees the launch of numerous small ships, including Silversea’s elegant Silver Dawn, Ponant’s world-first hybrid icebreaker Le Commandant Charcot, and the uberluxury ship Crystal Endeavor, which carries submarines and helicopters. Aurora Expeditions’ innovative Sylvia Earle, stylish polar-class vessel Seabourn Venture and Viking’s first two expedition ships also glide down the slipways next year.

Especially noteworthy is that many are expedition ships. Cruising is no longer a

l Continued on page 36

BEST OF 2022: SMALL SHIPS 34 cruisepassenger.com.au
A shore expedition from Silversea’s Silver Explorer in Antarctica. Inset: Silver Explorer cruising the Arctic. Below: Photographing penguins in Antarctica with Aurora Expeditions.

PAUL GAUGUIN

MY TOP PICKS

1

Huahine

Slow down and let stress float away on secluded Huahine. Explore the local village on foot, wander through lush rainforests, float in crystal-clear lagoons, explore hidden coves, remote creeks and archaeological remains.

2

HIGHLIGHTS OF 2022

Discover the culture of the Marquesas islands, Tahiti or the Tuamotus, take in the stunning panoramic views of the Cook Islands, and marvel at the unspoiled delights of Fiji… Paul Gauguin Cruises brings you unforgettable journeys thanks to its comprehensive knowledge of the destinations it visits. Each itinerary is meticulously planned, with every port of call an opportunity to discover the unique features of the surrounding area.

OUR SHIPS

Renovated in early 2021 to enhance its elegant Polynesian signature, Le Paul Gauguin is a luxurious ship with a capacity of only 330 guests. On board you’ll experience high-end service, spacious staterooms, refined cuisine, spa and leisure facilities. Your local Polynesian hosts onboard, the Gauguines and Gauguins, bring a genuine Polynesian experience throughout the voyage, sharing their culture, performing various traditional songs and dances.

4

Bora Bora

Mythical Bora Bora offers a natural spectacle of captivating beauty, with white sandy beaches, famous lagoons and colourful fish in waters of incomparable turquoise. The island is covered with tropical vegetation and dominated by the majestic outline of Mount Otemanu.

Marquesas Islands

Bathing in the crystal-clear waters of the Pacific Ocean, this unique chain of islands is home to exceptional flora and fauna, black-sand beaches, cultural experiences and stone sculptures said to be linked to the famous statues of Easter Island.

Fakarava

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Fakarava is a biosphere reserve that’s home to unique flora and fauna, grey sharks and untouched coral reefs. Make the most of the warm waters and snorkel or scuba dive among the coral.

Motu Mahana, Paul Gauguin Cruises private beach A veritable jewel in the Taha’a lagoon, Motu Mahana is a sumptuous little private island paradise only accessible by Paul Gauguin guests.

Visit: au.ponant.com/ paul-gauguin

HEALTH & SAFETY

Mandatory Testing

Before travelling, all guests and crew members are tested and subject to a COVID-safe access protocol with medical checks and screening.

Entering a COVIDSafe Zone Boarding for all guests and crew is controlled to comply with the COVID-safe zone protocol, using a disinfection tunnel.

Onboard Monitoring

Onboard spaces are regularly cleaned and disinfected. Ventilated air is continuously renewed in all public areas. And crew wear masks or visors.

Monitored Excursions

Excursions only take place in regions that are COVID-safe. Zodiacs are disinfected after each use, and guests must comply with health protection instructions.

BEST OF 2022: SMALL SHIPS
3
5
cruisepassenger.com.au 35

BEST OF 2022: SMALL SHIPS

sedate affair. Cruise travellers, not content with being passive spectators, are increasingly looking for adventure and more active shore excursions. On expedition cruises, you’ll get the chance to kayak among seals, scuba-dive on isolated tropical reefs or enjoy hikes in remote places. In Antarctica, Aurora Expeditions pushes the limits with mountaineering, polar snorkelling and even skiing.

Not all small ships are expedition ships, of course, but on regular ships the ethos is similar. Think of small-ship cruising as akin to travelling on land by car, with the opportunity to seek out less-frequented spots and more charming country attractions. Big-ship cruising is more like a group train excursion that visits only cities with large stations. And while big ships sail almost the same itineraries

every year, small ships are able to offer constantly changing cruises to ever more interesting places.

Small ships have other advantages, such as shallow draughts or ice-strengthened hulls, that enable them to sail small bays and icepacks. Some can even sail up rivers such as the Amazon or Papua New Guinea’s Sepik River. Heritage Line moseys through spectacular ocean landscapes such as Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, yet also sails up the Mekong River, as well as on the Irrawaddy in Myanmar.

The downside of small ships, at least for some, is that they have fewer amenities and entertainments and more limited space – though not when it comes to cabins at the luxury end. The focus of small-ship cruises isn’t the shipboard experience but the destination. The atmosphere on board is generally quieter, although you’ll be surrounded by likeminded people. Instead of glittery shows, experts give lectures on topics

such as local history, archaeology or politics, and classes in subjects such as cooking, wine and music.

What’s truly exciting about small ships is that they can now take you virtually anywhere. The polar regions are the ultimate destination, and changing ice conditions have opened up previously inaccessible places such as the Northeast Passage across Russia, and the Ross Sea south-east of Australia. Greenland, the Svalbard Islands and Russian Far East are all trending small-ship destinations. Another hotspot is the Galapagos Islands, where a flotilla of luxury ships has recently begun operations. Central America, Indonesia and West Africa seem ripe for more small ship visits. Here in Australia, the Kimberley is the big expedition destination, but Coral Expeditions ships are now visiting remote parts of Western Australia, South Australia and Tasmania. Choose to downsize and you’ll find the world is yours to explore.

36 cruisepassenger.com.au
What’s truly exciting about small ships is that they can now take you virtually anywhere.”
From left: Crystal Cruises’s Crystal Esprit; on the Amazon with Silversea; snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef with Coral Expeditions. The Seabourn Ovation in the Mediterranean.

HIGHLIGHTS OF 2022

Voyage with Heritage Expeditions to the Ross Sea in the heart of Antarctica; experience a high Arctic adventure in the Russian Far East; discover paradise and thrilling cultural exchanges in the South Pacific; experience the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Australia and New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands; and explore coastal New Zealand alongside a world-renowned team of naturalists, botanists, historians and experts interpreting natural and human history.

OUR SHIPS

Heritage Expeditions sets the standard in authentic, small-ship expedition cruising with our luxurious purpose-built 18-guest expedition yacht Heritage Explorer, 50-guest, ice-strengthened sister vessels Spirit of Enderby and Akademik Shokalskiy, and the recently acquired 140-guest grande dame of polar exploration Heritage Adventurer (the former MS Hanseatic). Unrivalled access and the ability to get all guests out exploring at once sets further us apart.

MY TOP PICKS

1

Ross Sea Antarctica

This voyage is true bucketlist material. You’ll never forget the thrill of Zodiac cruising colossal ice shelves, walking on the ice with emperor penguins and stepping inside Scott and Shackleton’s huts.

2

Swim with whale sharks

Speaking of bucket lists, swimming with the whale sharks in Cenderawasih Bay is one of several lifechanging experiences on our Indonesian Explorer voyage. Then there’s snorkelling pristine coral reefs, exploring remote beaches, wild jungles, and immersive cultural experiences.

3

Galapagos of the Southern Ocean There’s a reason this is the name of our Australian and New Zealand Subantarctic Islands voyage. Prepare to be seriously outnumbered by wildlife including albatross, sea lions, elephant seals and penguins on this ultimate wilderness voyage.

4

Polar bear denning capital of the world For polar bear encounters, you can’t beat Wrangel Island. On our last visit guests saw more than 100 bears, as well as pods of whales, massive walrus haul-outs, and thousands of migratory birds.

5

Cruising coastal New Zealand aboard Heritage Explorer Explore primeval worlds and untamed wildernesses; marvel at alien landscapes and grandscale scenery; and discover world famous fiords, sounds and aquatic wonderlands on just three islands.

heritage-expeditions.com

HEALTH & SAFETY

You’re Safe With Us Heritage Expeditions has a proven track record of 100-per-cent safe expedition cruising during the pandemic. Our industry-leading experience in socially distanced voyages with low guest numbers to remote locations ensures safety.

All-natural Sanitisation We’ve engaged Zoono, the world leaders in sanitisation, to sanitise our vessels between each voyage, using the latest in all-natural, antimicrobial cleaning technology. We also use Zoono’s scientifically proven cleaning products.

Best Safety Practice We work closely with the New Zealand Ministry of Health and other international government agencies ensuring real-time updates and best safety practice. Our proven range of protocols and strategies can be implemented immediately.

cruisepassenger.com.au 37 BEST OF 2022: SMALL SHIPS
HERITAGE EXPEDITIONS

RIVER RUN

Ships on Europe’s rivers have been largely idle for almost a year. But cruise operators are expecting a rush now more countries are allowing a resumption.

It was always the river cruiser’s proud boast that you can unpack only once and see as many as five countries at a stretch. Sadly, that boast proved its undoing during the pandemic, as different countries imposed a plethora of health regimes. The fleets have been largely idle for almost a year. But now the rivers are scheduled to come back to life. Thanks to the rapid spread of vaccinations across the continent and in America, home to the most inveterate river cruisers, sailings can resume. And many are predicting a mini boom.

As if to celebrate, Uniworld even relaunched La Venezia, the former River Countess struck by MSC Opera in 2019 in Venice. She now has more suites and dining areas, space for social distancing, and interiors

inspired by the work of Italian artist and textile designer Mariano Fortuny. And there are some good bargains to be had, with most lines offering big savings for forward bookings. But experts do warn: prepare to be flexible and understand things might change. In river parlance, that means go with the flow.

Viking, with the world’s biggest fleet, is excitedly preparing for the day Australians can return to the waterways of Europe, America and Asia – with a strong vote of confidence from Australia already, not just for 2022, but also for 2023.

“Viking is now open for the full 2023 Europe river cruise season. This is the first time we have opened a whole season this far in advance, which is definitely a positive

indication of global demand and the return to cruise that we have all been waiting for,” says Michelle Black, managing director, Viking Australia and New Zealand.

“Europe remains popular with longer itineraries such as Viking’s 23-day European Sojourn, which sails from Bucharest to Amsterdam or vice versa, in particular attracting people’s attention as they want to travel for longer after being unable to travel for so long.

“Likewise, the sale of pre- and postextensions is on the rise for the same reason, with guests choosing to extend their stay and really explore and discover their destination.”

BEST OF 2022: RIVER CRUISES 38 cruisepassenger.com.au
Top: the pretty Douro River in Portugal. Above: cruising the Yangtze River in China. Right: Viking crew ready for the line’s Europe river season. l Continued on page 40

AVALON WATERWAYS

MY TOP PICKS

Gai Tyrrell, managing director Australasia

1

New Active & Discovery Cruises Tailor your cruise to suit what interests you most. History-buff? Foodie? Arty? Lover of the outdoors? With new Active & Discovery cruises on the Moselle and Seine, the choice is yours.

2

2022 Storyteller Cruises

Sail with international best-selling authors such Candace Bushnell (Sex and the City), Gillian Flynn (Gone Girl) and Cheryl Strayed (Wild) on a selection of cruises along the Seine, Danube and Rhine rivers. They are sure to be a hit and will sell out fast.

3

HIGHLIGHTS OF 2022

In addition to relaxed luxury cruising on the rivers of Europe and Asia in 2022, Avalon Waterways has announced a new, celebrityhosted Storyteller Series. You'll have the chance to enjoy a Suite Ship sail with chart-topping storytellers such as Candace Bushnell (Sex and the City), Cheryl Strayed (Wild) and Gillian Flynn (Gone Girl). There’ll be book signings, concerts and Q&A sessions – and the chance to interact with your host on board and at ports.

OUR SHIPS

Eighty per cent of Suite Ship accommodation is in a Panorama Suite (30 per cent larger than industry standard), with floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall sliding glass doors that transform your room into an open-air balcony. We like to call it a “view with a room”. Cruises include all meals, local wine and beer at lunch and dinner, onboard activities and entertainment, daily excursions with local guides, complimentary WiFi, L’Occitane bathroom products and fitness centre and whirlpool access.

HEALTH & SAFETY

Before You Travel

New pre-trip health screenings and welcoming procedures ensure you have a safe start to your journey. You must also show proof of full vaccination from COVID-19 prior to boarding your cruise.

Your Safety On Board

Enhanced cleaning procedures include hourly disinfection of public areas, more hand sanitiser stations and luggage disinfection. New technologies such as UV and electrostatic disinfecting systems help ensure cleanliness.

4

Festive Cruises

Christmastime cruises are always popular, but more so in 2022. From wooden stalls with handmade ornaments and hot mulled wine to grand Christmas cathedrals and glistening lights, a winter cruise on the Danube, Main or Rhine rivers is a true gift of timeless tradition.

Floriade Cruises

For six months once every 10 years, the Netherlands bloom brighter than ever before. Be our guest at the 2022 International Horticultural Exhibition Floriade Expo, included on a selection of Avalon river cruises.

5

Oberammergau 2022

The Oberammergau

Passion Play experience is a theatrical tradition dating to 1634. Cruising with Avalon, guests will receive preferred seating at the Passion Play and accommodation in Oberammergau, Bavaria.

avalonwaterways.com.au

Avalon Peace of Mind Travel Plan* This complimentary plan will be attached to all bookings, giving you the flexibility to move holidays to any other 2022 or 2023 date, destination, itinerary or brand in our travel portfolio. *Booking must be moved before final payment date.

BEST OF 2022: RIVER CRUISES
cruisepassenger.com.au 39

In France, the Seine, Rhône/Saône and the Bordeaux regions are reopening, as well as the Rhine and the Danube. In Italy, the Po River and the Venetian Lagoon are creaking back to life. And Portugal’s Douro River is also now open.

Avalon Waterways, a popular brand with its brilliantly designed cabins that face the views – seems obvious, doesn’t it, but few do it – has won Cruise Passenger’s Best Luxury Line two years running.

The line’s active cruises, featuring walking tours of Europe’s great cities, cooking class and kayaks, show that river cruising doesn’t have to be sedentary.

Try Avalon’s eight-day Burgundy and Provence cruise for great food and wine; or the 16-day five-country Amsterdam to Budapest for magnificent scenery.

Scenic will return to the Douro on July 30, with Scenic Azure, while sister line Emerald Cruises will begin sailing in Portugal with Emerald Radiance.

Scenic has released itineraries on the Rhine and Danube rivers, and Garonne, Gironde and Dordogne rivers in Bordeaux.

“We are so excited to be able to greet our guests again after such a challenging year,” said Rob Voss, Scenic’s chief operating officer.

There will be six Bordeaux cruise departures through October, the 11-day Beautiful Bordeaux and the eight-day Bordeaux Affair. The eight-day Gems of the Danube offers departures in September and October.

AmaWaterways, which APT operates in Australia, is also expecting a strong 2022.

“We are so excited to see the situation in Europe evolving in a positive direction,” Kristin Karst, executive vice-president and co-founder of AmaWaterways, told American trade site Travel Weekly

The cruise line has recently partnered with Ancestry, so guests can discover details of their family history. The Ancestry Experience package allows travellers to have a pre-cruise private consultation and family history research, onboard presentations and curated excursions accompanied by an expert genealogist.

Crystal, Riviera Cruises, Tauck, Uniworld and CroisiEurope are all expecting to sail in Italy, France, Spain and Portugal in 2022.

American rivers are already in full swing, with the American Queen Steamship Company’s Mississippi sailings reporting 90 per cent occupancy for the rest of the year. Viking’s new Mississippi ship is also experiencing strong demand for 2022.

Many lines added ships in Asia before the pandemic, with the Mekong and Irrawaddy firm favourites. The region is working hard to battle COVID, but few are prepared to predict when popular destinations will be welcoming ships.

But one Asian country where that does not seem to apply is China.

“Our cruise trips have been fully booked in the past few months. The route between Chongqing and Yichang, Hubei province, is the most popular, and the trip usually lasts four days and three nights,” says Cai Yi, an operating director with Chongqing Changjiang Shipping.

The Yangtze River, the longest river in China and the third-longest in the world, has seen major growth as mainland Chinese search for new travel options.

Australia has its own river cruise company – and during COVID, it’s been doing rather well. PS Emmylou sails the Murray River from Echuca. It’s the world’s only cruising wood-fired paddlesteamer and lays claim to being our “most luxurious boutique river cruise”.

If all else fails, you can take a two- to six-night Murray River cruise in 2022.

BEST OF 2022: RIVER CRUISES 40 cruisepassenger.com.au
Above: Crystal’s European river cruiser Crystal Bach. Right: American Queen Steamship Company’s American Empress
American rivers are in full swing, with the American Queen Steamship Company’s Mississippi sailings on 90 per cent occupancy.”

THIS IS VIKING HEARTLAND

Venture into the homeland of the Vikings and discover Northern Europe with those who know it best. Discover epic expanses of wilderness, home to the distinctive flora and fauna of some of the region’s most stunning coastlines. This is a region of unrivalled beauty and diversity, that makes for a stunning travel experience.

From $6,995pp in Veranda stateroom

VIKING

15 DAYS | 11 GUIDED TOURS | 8 COUNTRIES

SET SAIL JUL – AUG 2022; APR – AUG 2023

From $8,795pp in Deluxe Veranda

cruisepassenger.com.au 41 Stockholm Baltic Sea Helsinki St. Petersburg Tallinn Gdansk N Cruise Overnight in Port SWEDEN FINLAN D RUSSIA ESTONIA POLAND
or vice versa
HOMELANDS
*Conditions apply. Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability, includes all advertised discounts and correct at time of printing. Viking Homelands Ocean Cruise based on 17 April 2023 departure and In Search of the Northern Lights Ocean Cruise based on 19 January 2023 departure. These offers are valid on new bookings made between 1 June and 31 July 2021 unless sold out prior. For full terms and conditions visit vikingcruises.com.au. 138 747 VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU OR SEE YOUR LOCAL VIKING AGENT ENJOY, IT’S ALL INCLUDED PRIVATE VERANDA STATEROOM | NORDIC SPA FACILITIES | SHORE EXCURSIONS | CHOICE OF 8 DINING OPTIONS WINE & BEER SERVED WITH LUNCH & DINNER | 24 HOUR ROOM SERVICE | WI-FI & GRATUITIES NEWEST SMALL SHIP FLEET | INDUSTRY-LEADING HEALTH & SAFETY PROGRAM $1,000 N Cruise Overnight in Port Bergen NORWAY North Sea Norwegian Sea London (Tilbury) ENGLAND Stavanger Tromsø Bodø Alta Narvik IN SEARCH OF THE NORTHERN LIGHTS
BERGEN or vice versa
LONDON –
13 DAYS | 6 GUIDED TOURS | 2 COUNTRIES SET SAIL JAN – MAR 2022; JAN – MAR 2023
$1,000

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52 Who’s sailing now – and what’s changed on board. cruisepassenger.com.au 43 CruiseReviews INSIDE 52 Windstar’s Star Breeze gets a stunning makeover. 48 On board the Viking Venus’s maiden pasenger cruise. 44 MSC Virtuosa heralds the return of big-ship cruising.
Windstar Star Breeze sailing in the Caribbean.

RETURN OF THE BIG SHIPS

MSC’s new Virtuosa marks a milestone for the postpandemic era of big-ship cruising. Sue Bryant was on one of its first sailings from an English port.

The maiden voyage of MSC’s gleaming new MSC Virtuosa was a first in more ways than one. She set sail from a cold, wet Southampton, one of the first cruises to resume in Europe.

The fickle English summer weather aside, this was a milestone for cruising, and an emotional moment. Big-ship cruise fans have largely been deprived of holidays at sea since March 2020.

Swiss-Italian-owned MSC is alone in the cruising world in that it’s actually kept a ship going since August 2020 through all but the bleakest months of the pandemic, sailing from the Italian port of Genoa and only carrying residents of Europe’s Schengen zone.

With ultra-strict testing protocols and social distancing in place, more than 65,000 passengers have sailed on board a MSC cruise without a COVID outbreak. A “tiny percentage” of passengers, the line says, have been turned away at the point of embarkation, either because they tested positive or had close contacts with positive tests. But break the rules on board, or stray from the group on one of the ship’s ‘bubble’ excursions, and you’re kicked off, no questions asked.

The protocols that are in place now are part of a phased restart. The 6,300-passenger ship is only sailing with

1,000 on board at the moment, in line with current British government regulations. From the gangway, I peered up at the ship, towering 18 decks above the quayside. Would we rattle around inside this massive ship?

The answer is no. Sailing at much reduced capacity is a rather luxurious experience. On my cruise along England’s south coast, there were more crew than passengers, as all the bars and restaurants were open and needed to be staffed. In any case, people gravitated to popular venues like the Sky Lounge and the Masters of the Sea pub, creating the illusion of the ship being much busier.

Like MSC’s other new ships, Virtuosa is designed to wow the minute you step on board, all Italian marble and glittering staircases encrusted with 61,000 Swarovski crystals.

The heart of the ship is the Galleria Virtuosa, a 112-metre long, two-deckhigh indoor promenade lined with jewellery shops, bars and restaurants. The ceiling of the gallery is domed, with different videos projected on the ceiling throughout the day. I found it mesmerising, as the dome transformed from a dazzling cityscape to a riot of flower-power colour promoting a 1970s party to a blanket of twinkling stars late at night.

The rules on board are strict. Vaccinated or not, everybody is swabtested at check-in and given a plastic wristband that will facilitate contact tracing if necessary. Check-in and embarkation are carried out in strict time windows. Everybody has to provide proof of insurance against COVID. There are temperature checks and compulsory hand-washing at the entrance to every restaurant, and seating in the bars and lounges is spaced out. Paper menus in the dining venues have been replaced with QR codes to scan.

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Rob the robot bartender, the star of the futuristic MSC Starship Club aboard the MSC Virtuosa

One-way arrows on the floor direct you around big spaces like the cavernous Marketplace Buffet, and masks have to be worn all the time when you’re moving around, including outside. I even had to wear a mask for my Balinese massage in the Aurea Spa.

The lifeboat drill has changed, too –for the better, in my opinion. Now you watch a safety video in your cabin and input a code into your cabin phone to confirm that you’ve seen it. Once you’ve done that, you walk to your muster station, check in and leave.

It’s a smart way to avoid having large crowds congregate.

In fact, everything on board is designed to stop unnecessary gatherings of fellow passengers. Theatre shows have to be pre-booked now, while lifeguards supervise the pools and whirlpools to

make sure the maximum allowed numbers are observed.

Most people, though, are so happy to be back at sea that these rules don’t seem particularly intrusive. Britain had just emerged from months of lockdown and a grimly wet winter, so it’s no surprise

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We’d just emerged from lockdown and a grim winter, so everybody was just enjoying the whimsical fun of this vast, floating resort.”
CRUISE REVIEWS

that everybody was just enjoying all the whimsical fun of this vast, floating resort.

I donned a headset and gun to battle zombies in the virtual reality games centre and screamed around the Monza Grand Prix course in the Formula 1 simulator. I’m slightly alarmed at how exhilarating these adrenaline rushes were after months of monotony.

Others relieved tension by yelling all the way down the twisty waterslides on the aft deck and teetering across the Himalayan Bridge rope walk in the gusting wind.

Most of the features on Virtuosa are the same as her predecessor, MSC Grandiosa, but something new is the futuristic MSC Starship Club, a novelty bar manned by ‘Rob’. Rob is a robot bartender who is so advanced that he took six years to create. He speaks eight languages.

I selected English on a screen and ordered a drink. “A cocktail a day keeps the doctor away,” he says conversationally, swivelling around and jiggling containers as he prepared my lurid cocktail, presented in a souvenir glass. This venue aside, drinks were included on my cruise, so Rob didn’t have much trade, although he no doubt did well on social media.

The majority of passengers seemed happy in the main dining rooms and the Marketplace Buffet (now manned by servers behind screens), but after months of the narrow choices of lockdown I ate my way around all the speciality restaurants.

My meat-eating companions raved about the Butchers’ Cut steakhouse, while the chefs in Kaito Teppanyaki put on a fine display of knife-juggling as they prepared sizzling hot food in front of us. Hola!

Tacos & Cantina is a suitably authentic Mexican, where you make your own guacamole at the table, while Indochine did a mind-blowingly hot green papaya salad. But there’s a price tag on everything: you can dine a la carte and pay as you go, or buy a package to eat in four restaurants.

While my cruise was positively serene, a quieter bolthole might be appealing when the ship is sailing full. The Yacht Club, MSC’s ship-within-a-ship, is gorgeous, an enclave spanning several

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Left:

Left

Right, from top: the ornate atrium of the MSC Virtuosa; the MSC Virtuosa at sea; Galleria Virtuosa, a domed shopping and dining strip on the ship.

decks, its inhabitants enjoying allinclusive drinks, their own bar and lounge, with magnificent forward views, a private deck and a smart, light-filled restaurant with daily changing menus. It’s an appealing option if you want the vibe of a big ship but the service and space of a small one.

So is my Virtuosa experience the new way of cruising? Changes, MSC says, will be in line with local government policy for now. So the mask rule may go and more than 10 could be allowed in the sizeable main pool – something important for when the ship moves to the Middle East in November.

Social distancing might be eased and the bubble excursions relaxed. But I can see testing, temperature checks, the newstyle boat drill and certainly the demise of the self-serve buffet as the way forward. None of which is necessarily a bad thing.

FACT FILE +

CRUISE LINE: MSC Cruises

SHIP: MSC Virtuosa

LAUNCHED: 2021

STAR RATING: Not yet rated

TONNAGE: 181,541

PASSENGER DECKS: 15

PASSENGER CAPACITY: 6,334

CREW: 1,704

THE VERDICT +

HIGHS: Stylish design, quality speciality dining and accommodation for every budget.

LOWS: Extra charges for everything from WiFi to VR games, drinks, classes, speciality dining and decent coffee.

BEST FOR: Families and younger cruisers looking for sunshine and nightlife.

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a pampering session onboard the MSC fleet. below: the outdoor deck area of the Yacht Club.
CRUISE REVIEWS

VENUS RISING

Renowned maritime writer Tony Slinn took one of the first trips aboard the brand-new Viking Venus when the UK restarted cruises.

COVID cancelled our Viking Elbe river cruise. But the cruise company wasn’t to be stopped, offering us instead an eight-day UK ‘staycation’ ocean cruise aboard the brand-new Viking Venus. Cruise-starved for 18 months, we leapt at the chance. I’d followed Viking Venus’s construction at the Fincantieri yard from 2017 through to her commissioning.

Fincantieri is responsible for all seven ships currently in Viking’s ocean fleet (another is being built), which are all-balcony, 227 metres long by around 30 metres wide, and accommodate 930 guests in 465 cabins. In terms of today’s cruise behemoths, that classes them as ‘small ships’. That suits us fine.

We also liked the fact that they are adults-only, don’t have a casino, serve stunning food in a variety of restaurants and include

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WiFi, some shore excursions, gratuities, and wine during meals as part of the deal.

We enjoy our wine, which is why we opted for the Silver Spirits upgrade, which covers cocktails, wine and spirits before and after meals and throughout the ship. We’ve always paid for that in the past, but were surprised to see ocean package wine list prices capped at US$25, the base price for house wines. On Viking river cruises we’ve taken in the past, the cap has been double that and included champagne.

That said, the included wines were not bad, and there was a good choice. But, as we both love fine wine, I did have a discussion with the beverage team about introducing a ‘gold’ package. And who knows, it might happen.

/ THE SCHEDULE

Viking TV presenter and British journalist Anne Diamond was revealed as the ship’s ‘godmother’ at the May 2021 naming ceremony, breaking a bottle of aquavit on the hull by using an ancient Viking broad axe to cut the ribbon holding it in place. A mini cruise for VIP guests followed – we were on the second journey, but the first real cruise.

That was a blessing: rain, wind and grey skies greeted passengers on the mini cruise, while we had mostly blue skies and warm sun. This is Britain, don’t forget.

Diamond obviously liked the ship, because she stayed on for our cruise to give a couple of interesting lectures. She was also the guest of honour at the Viking Explorer Society’s past guest cocktail party, where we learnt we were currently the only fare-paying passengers on any ocean cruise ship in the world.

We sailed from Portsmouth, spent day two at sea and docked in Liverpool; Tresco, in the Isles of Scilly; Falmouth; and Portland. We took the included excursions at all four ports. The final day was spent cruising around the Channel Islands, before returning to Portsmouth.

In Liverpool, we took two-hour ‘Iconic Liverpool’ coach tour with a very knowledgeable guide. It’s a lovely city with a great history, and, of course, we visited Penny Lane, to the tune of the Beatles song that made the street famous. At Tresco, around 45 kilometres off the Cornish coastline, we were tendered to the island for a visit to the spectacular Abbey Gardens, a lush botanical oasis set in the ruins of a Benedictine abbey.

During our Falmouth visit we took a tour that included the old tin and copper mining district and the site of the recent G7 meeting. Sadly, the picturesque town centre was off-limits to our coach.

No such problem at Portland, a former Royal Navy base, and again a knowledgeable guide brought it to life for us.

/ THE SHIP

If you’ve sailed aboard any of Viking’s other ocean vessels, you’ll feel right at home. They’re almost all the same. For us, it was all new and half the size of liners we’d cruised on before. In your cabin, you’ll find information about the works of art that adorn the ship. The spa is impressive: there’s a hydrotherapy pool, thermal loungers, saunas and plunge pools, as well as a Snow Room. No snow on our cruise, though, but the room was very cold.

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CRUISE REVIEWS

Not so in what became our favourite haunt for a late night post-prandial brandy, the Explorers’ Lounge. The space features a huge water-vapour fireplace, an artificial electric device that uses water mist and LEDs to create a realistic flame illusion.

Shops, a well-equipped gym, a pool section with its own grill for casual lunches and a huge sliding roof (ideal for the unpredictable UK climate) plus a latenight jazz club named Torshavn were also impressive. Up top, Viking Venus features separate sun and sports decks, the latter with bowls, table tennis and more.

As for dining, all passengers had complimentary access to the Chef’s Table restaurant, which I’m told usually incurs an additional charge. We were treated to two excellent five-course meals, themed on British and Norwegian food with paired wines. We also had an Italian meal in Manfredi’s – the bistecca Fiorentina was superb. And if you’re looking for a light lunch, I can recommend Mamsen’s for a Scandinavian open-sandwich buffet with gravlax, shrimp and more. wMost of our meals, though, were in the main restaurant and buffet-style World Café, the latter on deck seven. It opens onto the Aquavit Terrace, with its hot tub and infinity pool.

The Brits on board felt at home at the midships Wintergarden, which serves a quintessentially British afternoon tea of scones with jam and clotted cream. As we learned on our Falmouth trip, in Cornwall it’s jam first, cream on top; the reverse in Devon. The Cornish say it’s because their clotted cream is far superior and deserves to be on top.

Entertainment on our trip consisted of live music from the Viking band, a pianist, a classical trio and a guitarist who set up in various venues. Viking normally offers evening production shows in the Theatre, but not on our cruise. It was, however, the venue for well-attended daytime lectures.

Finally, praise for the crew. The ebullient Captain Johan Malmberg was bang on in describing Viking Venus as “the friendliest ship at sea” in his briefings. You couldn’t ask for more.

/ COVID-19’S IMPACT

Viking took its pandemic precautions very seriously. Firstly, you had to prove you’d had both jabs and take a health survey before boarding, the latter proving a problem in our case as Viking’s website locked up. No matter, these were carried out in Portsmouth’s cruise terminal before we boarded.

That was followed by a temperature check and the first

of daily NAAT saliva tests (nucleic acid amplification technology), with samples tested at the ship’s lab.

Automated temperature checks via infrared cameras equipped with facial recognition technology and hand sanitation stations were in place around the ship, especially in the restaurants. The staff, while charming, made sure these hand sanitation stations were used.

Wearing masks was compulsory in all public areas other than on open-air decks and when you were eating or drinking. We also had to wear a contact-tracing dongle throughout the cruise, including on shore excursions.

Viking limited passenger numbers to half the ship’s 930 capacity, but only 284 were aboard our cruise, which aided social distancing. Measures such as well-spaced restaurant tables and lifts restricted to two people or a ‘household’ of four also helped.

In the World Café, normally a self-service buffet, staff and all food were behind glass screens and served to you. Again, with so few passengers, no real queues resulted.

These measures extended to shore excursions: you were not allowed off the ship by yourself, only with fellow guests on organised trips. Other than at Tresco, on our complimentary excursions we remained in our coaches with only ten-minute outside breaks. In Liverpool, we didn’t even get those short breaks.

As a result, only one passenger tested positive for COVID-19 and was immediately disembarked. And on

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Approaching the historic English town of Portsmouth.
Captain Johan Malmberg was bang-on in describing Viking Venus as ‘the friendliest ship at sea’. You couldn’t ask for more”

final disembarkation, the rest of us were given negative NAAT test certificates, though these were not required by the authorities for British residents.

/ CABINS

All have balconies and Viking Venus has options for every budget. Even basic cabins are spacious, have huge beds, benefit from minimalist Scandinavian design, have plenty of wardrobe and cupboard space, multiple USB and power outlets, heated bathroom floors, free WiFi, and 42-inch flat-screen interactive TVs with complimentary movies on demand.

We travelled in a Deluxe Veranda cabin on deck five. Veranda and Deluxe Veranda cabins are both 25 square metres. The deluxe version gives you a few extras, such as one guaranteed priority reservation at the speciality restaurants 60 days prior to departure, priority booking of spa treatments 60 days prior to departure, and a coffee brewer.

Penthouse Veranda rooms are slightly larger, at 31 square metres. Then there’s the Penthouse Junior Suite and Explorer Suites, which range from 70 to 108 square metres and have varying layouts depending on where they are on the ship.

And the Owner’s Suite, on deck seven, has a private library, a boardroom seating 12, and wine and music collections curated by Viking chairman Torstein Hagen.

THE VERDICT +

HIGHS: Superb staff, excellent food, beautiful ship, attention to detail evident everywhere, top-level organisation of boarding, excursions and disembarkation.

LOWS: High-priced optional excursions. Dumbed down Silver Spirits beverage package compared to Viking river cruises. Lack of evening theatre shows. Cramped and crowded private tenders at Tresco. vikingcruises.com.au

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CRUISE REVIEWS
Left, from top: a Deluxe Veranda cabin; waffles at the Norwegianthemed Mamsen’s dining venue; enjoying the view from the infinity pool. Clockwise from right: the light-filled Explorer’s Lounge; afternoon tea at Wintergarden; the well appointed spa.

STRETCH TEST

Like a stretched limo, the Star Breeze has been given a new lease of life via a newly added midsection. And she’s heading to Australia.

David Dickstein tries her out

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CRUISE REVIEWS

The lounge chairs by the ship’s pool were no more than a centimetre off being lined up in a perfect row. But that wasn’t good enough for the hotel officer, who used a crew member’s linear faux pas as an opportunity for some impromptu retraining.

In the crewman’s defence, he probably hadn’t performed that chore for well over a year. The incident caught my eye while I was gazing out a window of the Windstar Star Breeze’s fitness centre, where this early-rising passenger was working off the scrumptious beef wellington enjoyed the night before at the elegant Amphora dining room.

When I commended for his attention for detail, the maître d’ said that making a good first impression with each guest every morning is vital in delivering on the luxury cruise line’s brand promise of offering “private yacht-style cruising that’s 180 degrees from the ordinary”. Promise made, promise kept. I can

happily report that the Star Breeze crew went above and beyond on a recent ‘inaugural’ sail of this 32-year-old cruise ship, which will be periodically homeported in Australia starting in late 2022.

Inaugural isn’t a term you’d normally use in reference to a vessel that’s over three decades old. But my seven-day voyage heralded a new era when our ship was finally unshackled from a worldwide no-sail order and released from the north-east berth of the Port of Sint Maarten in the Caribbean.

Half of Windstar’s six-vessel fleet is being reclassified under the American ratings system from Star to Star Plus. For the Windstar faithful, the extra word means there’s now more to love with the Star Breeze, Star Legend come September, and Star Pride in November.

The staggered rollout of these eight-deck sister ships involves expanding – or “stretching” – them by cutting them

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Clockwise from left: A new 25-metre section was inserted into the Star Breeze at the Fincantieri shipyard in Italy; a bird’s eye view of the ship’s stern; galley crew members strike a pose. Below left: the sun-soaked pool deck.

in half and inserting a new 25-metre section into the middle of the ship. The inserted section adds 50 suites that can accommodate up to another 100 passengers. It’s a truly amazing engineering feat.

The added real estate raises Star Breeze’s gross tonnage from 9,975 to 12,995. Unlike the more indulgent cruisers who put on a few kilos while sailing, this weight gain is intentional. The results of the maritime makeover are evident from bow to stern on what is presently the flagship of Windstar’s US$250million Star class transformation.

/ DINING

Cuadro 44, open only for dinner, is the most novel concept among the new dining options. This small Spanish-influenced restaurant accented with whimsy is on deck 6, in the former location of the gift shop.

Here New York chef Anthony Sasso offers up tapas worthy of note, including the jamón ibérico, featuring a 24-month-aged leg of pork from pigs raised solely on acorns in southern Spain; and the pulpo gallego with charred Portuguese octopus. Vegetarians will savour the potato tortilla, which may well be the best frittata served at sea.

Winning entrees include a salad take on gazpacho with calamari; the mint salsa verde-topped lamb chops; and a light, yet flavourful olive oil-poached bacalao. It’s a superb selection that’s let down somewhat by a menu that poorly describes some of the items.

FACT FILE +

CRUISE LINE: Windstar

Cruises

VESSEL: Star Breeze

ENTERED SERVICE: 1989 as Seabourn Spirit (2015 to present as Star Breeze)

STAR RATING: 5

TONNAGE: 181,541

PASSENGER DECKS: 6

PASSENGER CAPACITY: 312

CREW: 188–190

FACILITIES: 5 dining options; 24-hour room service; various bars, coffee bars and lounges; 1 pool; 2 whirlpools; duty-free shop; fitness centre and spa; water sports platform.

BOOKINGS: Star Breeze will sail from various Caribbean and Central America ports throughout August before embarkations in Tahiti from September 19, 2021 to April 7, 2022. Itineraries out of Australian ports begin November 2022. deals.windstar.com.au/ windstar

THE VERDICT +

HIGHS: Genuinely warm and meticulous staff, expanded food options, impressive renovation and expansion, the pinnacle of small-ship luxury cruising.

LOWS: Confusing menu at Cuadro 44, expensive internet, no jogging track, evening shows suffered from rash of technical gaffes that will hopefully be ironed out.

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Left, from top: Windstar president Christopher Prelog; a chilled bottle of prosecco awaits in an Owner’s Suite; inside one of the two Grand Owner’s Suites on the Star Breeze
CRUISE REVIEWS

Eclectic fare is also found midship on deck 8, at the new buffet-style Star Grill, conceived by renowned grilling god Steven Raichlen.

Flanking the two or three types of meat at the carver’s stations are a salad bar and dessert/fruit station, but guests may also order protein-heavy dishes more representative of the eatery’s name. The burgers are tasty, although not quite in the league of Guy Fieri’s on Carnival ships. The restaurant, situated under a sprawling canopy next to the spirited, refurbished Star Bar, is a lovely spot come rain or shine.

Rounding out the dining options (alongside the 24/7 room service, of course) are the relocated and rebuilt Amphora main dining room, which serves up exquisite dinners on deck 3 (the aforementioned beef wellington and no-sugar-added desserts are sublime); a newly built space on deck 7 that doubles as Veranda, for buffet-style breakfasts and lunches, and full-service Candles at dinnertime (the sea bass, lemon tart and views off the stern are to die for); and the refurbished Yacht Club Café, for sweet and savoury snacks washed down with barista-made coffee.

/ CABINS & MORE

The two Grand Owner’s Suites, each with a balcony, are the ultimate place to rest your head, offering 128 square metres across three connecting staterooms for a total of three ensuite bedrooms, and one additional bathroom. The two suites that make up this new category are within the existing block, but you’d never know it from the completely refurbished interior. In fact, all cabins now have new bathrooms, bedding, smart TVs, carpeting and wallpaper, and, in the pre-stretch staterooms, reupholstered furniture. The renovated cabins look just as sharp as the new ones. Even where the splicing was done it’s seamless – a marvel in engineering and interior design.

Entertainment aboard the Star Breeze also has been upgraded. The professional singers still vibe with solo and duo acts, but now are showcased in the refurbished 124-seat Lounge with a live band. More cabaret-type

shows are expected to roll out across Windstar’s Star Plus ships, making better use of an existing theatre of proportions not seen on Windstar’s sail-class yachts –the Wind Spirit, Wind Star and Wind Surf

Other features include a bigger pool, enlarged World Spa with brand new equipment, a well-stocked Star Boutique with branded merchandise, and a more dramatically staged Windstar Signature Sail Away to Vangelis’s rousing Conquest of Paradise. Behind the scenes are four environmentally friendly engines that have replaced the previous seven-engine set-up deemed by Windstar as inefficient.

/ AUSTRALIA-BOUND

Windstar president Christopher Prelog sailed on the landmark voyage out of Sint Maarten to join the crew in welcoming guests back and showing off the revamped ship. “This feels really, really, really amazing,” he said.

“I’m super-hyped for crew and passengers alike to see this completely renovated 32-year-old rebuilt.

“This is the result of a lot of work. Whoever knew that not operating a fleet is so work-intensive?”

Despite a delayed Australian debut, due, of course, to coronavirus-triggered rescheduling, Mr Prelog expects the Star Plus class and private yacht-style cruising to go over well in this market even before the Star Breeze arrives for various itineraries embarking from Sydney, Melbourne, Cairns and Port Douglas starting in November 2022.

“These ships are built for longer distances, yet have a really intimate feel,” he said. “We know that even with social distancing requirements that will be with us for a while, Australia will love the close interaction between guest and crew that small-ship cruising allows. It’s a family-type dynamic that will be popular in a market that Windstar has been trying to grow for a number of years.

“After the lockdown is lifted, Australians will be absolutely hungry for this type of cruising, and a silver lining with the pandemic is that we can now do that with the right ship in terms of size and features.”

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CRUISE REVIEWS
From left: crew perform a Windstar Signature Sail Away; the magnificent new-look Star Breeze

Six things to know about the return of cruising

Planning your next cruise? Here’s what the exports say you should expect.

/ WHAT TO KNOW WHEN BOOKING

Cruise specialist and travel agent Kathy Pavlidis has one crucial insight for those hoping to be on a cruise when sailings finally restart. “My only advice is don’t leave it too late. A lot of the availability for 2022 is already drying up, as people are trying to make up for lost time. People are even setting their sights on 2023.”

As far as what people are booking, they’re looking to return to cruise in style with longer and more luxurious voyages.

“People do want to cruise – they have a lot of future cruise credits around – but they’re looking for longer Mediterraneantype itineraries and expedition-type cruising,” says Ms Pavlidis. Another interesting insight is that you probably won’t be meeting too many first-time cruisers on your return to the seas. “The mass market has tended to drop off a little bit. People who are new to cruise have mostly stopped.”

/ NEW COVID PROTOCOLS

The first thing you should expect is to have to fill in some extra paperwork before you’ve even left home. Exact protocols will obviously vary line by line, but you can expect to fill out a health questionnaire and, depending on requirements, attach

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a proof of vaccination or negative COVID test. There may also be extra health screening.

A writer for The Points Guy was onboard Royal Caribbean’s Adventure of the Seas when it restarted operations in the US earlier this year. He calculated that boarding took him about an hour. This is a bit longer than Royal Caribbean’s previous “15 minutes or less” standard, but not the hugest sacrifice given the circumstances.

Instead of meeting at the waterfront, cruise passengers were first instructed to go to a nearby hotel, where they had their temperature checked and underwent a COVID test. While it seems unlikely that this will become the new standard, you can expect boarding to be a little different.

A few more changes may be present as you get on board and get comfortable in your cabin. You might find the usual safety drills and exercises are given via smartphones.

And when you settle in to your cabin, you will probably find it stocked with hand sanitiser and face masks. And your cabin may well be disinfected each day.

/ DINING CHANGES

To put your mind at ease, the buffet isn’t going anywhere, despite some scares. However, it’ll be slightly different. Royal Caribbean global vice-president culinary, dining and beverage Linken D’Souza addressed future guests: “Rest assured, the buffet will exist. There may be some small modifications that allow us to ensure that we have a really great, healthy return to service. But your favourites and what you’re used to at the Windjammer will still be there.”

A writer for The Mirror who was on the first UK cruise since 2020, sailing on MSC Virtuosa, talked through his experience with the buffet. “I was guided to the basins to wash my hands and the food was served by staff – you can’t help yourself. All this might sound far from the normal, relaxed vibe on a cruise but became second nature.”

Another thing to be ready for on the food scene is that specialty dining seems to be more popular than ever. Royal Caribbean has reported that demand for speciality dining increased on Adventure of the Seas. If you’re planning on some extra fine dining on your return to cruise, make sure you book early.

/ LIMITED CAPACITY

In a positive, if you happen to find yourself sailing on a ship that is being required to sail below its passenger capacity, you’ll enjoy all sorts of benefits.

Besides obviously feeling less worried about COVID, you’ll also feel like you have the ship almost to yourself. You’ll also feel like you have more room if you stop off for excursions in areas that are designed to handle thousands more guests than are actually on board.

There’ll be shorter wait times, less lines and crowds, and a more relaxing experience, with more open areas and free places to relax on board.

/ GET READY TO USE YOUR SMARTPHONE

Expect to be receiving safety instructions, ordering food and beverages, making reservations and getting your bearings via a smartphone app. Royal Caribbean, among others, spent its time in lockdown heavily investing in and developing its app.

Even at full capacity, this should help reduce waiting times at restaurants and kiosks, help with the reservations process and keep you better informed about the happenings on the ships. And, of course, get you any safety information you might need as soon as possible.

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TIPS & ADVICE
Royal Caribbean has reported that demand for speciality dining increased. Book early if you’re planning on some fine dining.”
Buffets like the ones presented in Windjammer eateries on Royal Caribbean cruises will return in time, but in a modified form.

Captain Stubing, the father of modern cruising

Mourned by millions, actor Gavin MacLeod was a Princess ambassador for three decades. He helped popularise modern cruising, with many buying their first cruise ticket after seeing him in The Love Boat.

As what marketing specialists call a ‘brand ambassador’, Gavin MacLeod was right up there with the best. Millions mourned his passing – particularly cruisers who enjoyed travelling with Princess.

For MacLeod, the American actor best known for his role as the smiling captain on the astonishingly successful 1970s and 80s sitcom The Love Boat, was the popular face of Princess for more than 35 years before he died at the age of 90. After all, he was Captain Merrill Stubing. And the real-life Love Boat was a Princess ship, right?

But this is a feelgood story that almost never happened. The big hit show almost wasn’t a hit. And MacLeod wasn’t quite your average Hollywood heartthrob.

After playing the role of a television news writer on The Mary Tyler Moore Show – one of the first big hit syndicated shows out of America long before the days of Netflix – in the 70s, MacLeod went on to play Captain Stubing on The Love Boat.

The show was initially panned by TV critics as “mindless television”. Imagine? It continued to be renewed for an incredible 10 seasons, and even hit the big screen with a series of movies.

Many believe the show popularised modern cruising as a preferred way to travel, by showcasing it as a vacation for people from all walks of life, not just for the rich and famous.

When the show closed, Princess Cruises hired MacLeod as a public relations ambassador. He would cheerfully done the captain’s uniform at the cruise line’s ship christenings and other public

events. He even rode on a Rose Bowl parade float along with his fellow cast members.

According to Princess’s Australian office: “After the Love Boat series wrapped, he made two visits to Australia, including leading The Love Tour in 2014, where he renewed the wedding vows of our Aussie and Kiwi guests aboard the Sun Princess leading into Valentine’s Day.”

Princess’s US office said: “It is with sadness felt to the depth of the oceans that we mourn the passing of actor Gavin MacLeod, our beloved global ambassador, dearest friend and treasured member of the Princess Cruises family for more than 35 years.

“From his 10 seasons staring as Captain Merrill Stubing on the hit TV show The Love Boat and for more than three decades following the show’s final season, Gavin enthusiastically shared his passion about the joys and adventures of exploring the world while cruising. He always reminded us that, like the popular TV series, “cruising gives people something to dream about”.

Vicky Garcia, chief operating officer and co-owner of Cruise Planners, said: “I was truly devastated to hear the news about Gavin’s passing. He was one of the reasons I fell in love with cruising.”

Garcia continued: “When I was growing up, my family and I watched The Love Boat together without missing an episode. And when ringtones for our smartphones first came out, guess which one I had for years? Yes, The Love Boat theme.

“He has been such a gentleman and pioneer for the cruise industry.”

CRUISE REVIEWS 58 cruisepassenger.com.au
Clockwise from top: Princess Cruises ambassador Gavin MacLeod celebrates his 80th birthday with a spectacular cake; posing with the Pacific Princess in 2008; with Jill Whelan, the actress who played the character of Vicki Stubing, Captain Stubing’s daughter, on The Love Boat

D E F I N I N G C R U I S I N G ’ S F U T U R E

C L I A c r u i s e l i n e s h a v e c o m m i t t e d t o s o m e o f t h e m o s t e x t e n s i v e n e w h e a l t h m e a s u r e s o f a n y i n d u s t r y i n t h e w o r l d .

D e v e l o p e d w i t h t h e h e l p o f l e a d i n g m e d i c a l e x p e r t s i n t e r n a t i o n a l l y , t h e y

c o v e r a l m o s t e v e r y a s p e c t o f c r u i s e s h i p o p e r a t i o n s t o m a i n t a i n h e a l t h a n d s a f e t y a s t h e h i g h e s t p r i o r i t y .

F r o m 1 0 0 % t e s t i n g o f a l l p a s s e n g e r s a n d

c r e w t o e x t e n s i v e o n b o a r d p r o t o c o l s , y o u r C L I A c r u i s e s p e c i a l i s t t r a v e l

a g e n t c a n h e l p y o u

u n d e r s t a n d t h e n e w h e a l t h m e a s u r e s a t s e a .

Visit www.cruising.org.au for more information on CLIA’s COVID-19 Memb er Policy and to find your nearest CLIA cruise specialist travel agent.
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BEYOND IMAGINATION

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