BIKE Magazine - Summer 2019

Cycling Holidays – Scotland – TOUR Transalp – Coast and Castles

UK’S LEISURE CYCLING AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE

SUMMER 2019

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CONTENTS

INSIDE SUMMER 2019

06 The Hidden France It is becoming increasing true that frontiers are blurred by ever quicker travel and communications bringing us nearing than ever to our neighbours.

24 redspokes Adventure Tours

38 NEWCASTLE TO EDINBURGH

a specialist adventure travel company, takes small groups of cyclists to spectacular and remote areas of the world. > Cycling Holidays

28 Cycling the Pamir Highway Amazing sceneries and a solitary road which takes you up one of the highest cyclable places on Earth, but is that really all there is to it? > Part of Helsinki to Singapore

48 A DEAFENING SKY

34 Alpine Crossing Spectacular trails, stunning passes, well-known stage locations, professional event structure and participants from over 30 countries making this event a unique and unforgettable experience. > Stage Race

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WELCOME

Welcome

to the Summer issue

The Tour de France is the only bike race that the majority of my friends take any interest in. Perhaps this is simply because it’s the only one that gets any air time on unpaid TV. But it’s got to be a bit more than that, surely. It wouldn’t be my first choice to get an uninitiated into the sport. I’d drag them in front of a one-day classic like Paris Roubaix or the Tour of Flanders. The tour can disappoint: a sprinter’s stage, with an uneventful trawl across flat northern France, followed by a few seconds of unintelligible sprint madness could put someone off bike racing for life.

Perhaps it’s the Tour’s proximity to the UK, even more so when it’s rolling out in Yorkshire. The fact that we can go and join the throbbing roadside crowds, waiting

hours for a few-second fix.

Moreover, we can actually ride the race routes. This could be a cycling holiday in a region such as Normandy, where you nonchalantly ride a short section of the pro route on the way from a campsite to a Boulangerie. Maybe a family holiday that in truth centres around a day on a hallowed climb, following the tyre tracks of legends. It could even stretch to full blown tour, each stage meticulously ridden the week before the real racers.

It’s about being part of something historic, epic and truly Grand. So don the T-shirt, download the App, read the latest book, play the latest X-Box version, hang the print on the wall. There’s no immunity to the Yellow Fever. > Michael Stokes - Editor

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Cycling Holidays – Scotland – TOUR Transalp – Coast and Castles

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THE HIDDEN FRANCE PART 1

It is becoming increasing true that frontiers are blurred by ever quicker travel and communications bringing us nearing than ever to our neighbours. However essential disparities thankfully do exist, disparities which tease us to explore different cultures on our annual migrations. More and more we want to be exposed to the unknown, we simply want to be amazed.

Most want to embrace the lure of the sun, sea and mass of lively resorts. Yet an increasing number of travellers find the concept suffocating and believe that it destroys the cultural integrity of an area. These independent spirits value timelessness, they resent hurry, jostling, people, traffic jams and want something different, something inspiring and uncharted.

The Creuse and the Corrèze are such places, if you take time to peruse the bookshelves on the High Street, you will find it annoyingly devoid of any reference to these great examples of ‘Hidden France’. People in the area have a strong regional culture and continue to speak the Limousin dialect, however it is more common for the oldest people to speak Limousin than the youngest. The Limousin dialect is now taught to children in some specialised schools and

continued

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is ever present on signs, hopefully this will keep this heritage strong.

The Creuse is one of the original 83 departments created (from the former province of La Marche) during the French Revolution on 4 March 1790, but has kept itself under the radar for far too long. The population peaked at 287,075 in 1851, after which it declined gently until the First World War. During and after the war, the decline in population became much more rapid both because of the death and disruption that characterised the war years and because of the higher wages available to any workers with marketable skills in the economically more dynamic towns and cities outside Creuse.

Named after the Creuse River, with the Taurion, Gartempe and Petite-Creuse rivers also winding through the department and the rolling green hills of the Massif Central mountain range, Creuse is a simply beautiful area to explore. The varied landscapes are ideal for the pursuit of outdoor activities including walking and cycling routes through the countryside and nature lovers can marvel at the department’s beautiful plateaus, rocky gorges and pretty gardens far away from the busy seaside resorts of the south.

Similar to La Creuse the Corrèze is also named after the river Corrèze which runs through it. Its capital is Tulle, and its most populated town is Brive-la-Gaillarde. It too was one of the original 83 departments created during the French Revolution and includes part of the former province of Limousin (the BasLimousin). The 1851 census recorded a population of 320,866: this remained relatively constant for the rest of the nineteenth century. During the twentieth century, however, Corrèze shared the experience of many of the country’s rural departments as the population fell steadily.

If you are looking for high quality cycling, then please look no further! Set in the green heart of France, the varied terrain, stunning scenery and virtually traffic free roads of

both provide a great location to push those pedals. One of the main attractions of the Corrèze the rolling foothills of the Massif Central, the whole experience is hypnotic, mystical and mysterious. A self-propelled visit will free you from the unrelenting pace of an over packed bus tour program.

This little known area of France provides a wide variety of cycling to discover. From climbing and descending some of the many local river gorges to more relaxing undulating routes alongside lakes, rivers and forests suitable for less experienced cyclists In the south of the Massif Central, lovers of nature and old buildings will find their heart’s content when they explore, a peaceful and green land with countless attractions. Whether you choose to go hiking in the Millevaches Regional Natural Park, with its forests, prairies and lakes, head to the Vézère gorges for river sports, climbing and mountain biking, or enjoy a walk around the Gimel and Murel waterfalls, the Causse Corrèzien limestone plateau and the upper Dordogne Valley.

The heritage is exceptional, with the Merle towers, Pompadour Castle, Aubazine Abbey, and superb medieval towns like Collonges-la-Rouge, Curemonte, Saint-Robert, Ségur-leChâteau and Turenne, all five of which are listed among the most beautiful villages of France. Corrèze’s other treasure is its local cuisine made with quality produce, to be sampled liberally at the local markets

Day One Plane, Bike & Car collection and a transfer to Faux La Montagne FROM FAUX LA MONTAGNE TO AUBUSSON : 65 km I set off from the lovely Faux La Montagne north on ‘La veloroute Creuse’ towards Aubusson passing the Vassiviere and Lavaud-Gelade lakes. If you are not in a great hurry, there

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is some much to explore and appreciate. It’s a land of green hills topped by forests and valleys with meandering rivers and streams, it will simply make you feel more alive.

The bike was a dream, surprisingly I had been let loose with a pricey lightweight racer. The Look 785 d’huez was a joy in carbon, aesthetic, responsive and durable.

The route mostly runs through countryside dotted with farming villages, the roads empty, it is ideal for exploration on two wheels. Quicker than expected I entered the small and picturesque town of Felletin, the birthplace of the Marchoise tapestry. Home to a beautiful church, Moutier originates from the 12th century. Topped by a high square bell tower with three floors, this monument is home to magnificent frescoes dating from the 15th century. The town proudly displays the wealth of its built heritage through its streets, fountains, chapels and fortifications. It’s like all fascinating old towns crammed with treasures and magnificent old buildings. The friendly unassuming attitude despite its obvious affluence is liberating.

A rather rapid 10km later and I had arrived in Aubusson, this charming town is famed for its tapestry making, due in part to the River Creuse and its unusual chemical composition that naturally fixed the pigments to the tapestries. A stroll through the town reveals unspoiled, picturesque narrow streets, large houses with theatrical turrets and fountains. Granite, an omnipresent material in the town’s architecture, gives the place undeniable charm. Few would argue with the town’s inclusion in Les 100 “Plus Beaux Detours de France” The ‘old town’ is centred around the 17th century stone bridge over the river Creuse, the Pont de la Terrade, where the workers traditionally lived and the workshops where the rugs were produced. The town contains an abundance of medieval houses and the architectural heritage bears witness to the power of the past and the famous history of the Masons of Creuse. The faint whiff of Renaissance dominates. Most of buildings are adorned with round towers and turrets, niches, wrought iron balconies and chamfered windows, the highlight is the House of the Tapestry-maker, a magnificent 16thcentury house, dedicated to the history and the tradition of the Aubusson tapestry; the local Tapestry museum and its breathtaking exhibits (words I never thought I’d utter) We checked into our hotel located in the sublime old quarter, Les Maisons du Pont (6 Rue Alfred Assolant, 23200 Aubusson; +33 5 55 67 72 22) is a stunning building which has been lovingly refurbished to provide contemporary décor but remaining true to its ancient heritage. Its unsurprising that the owner is an interior designer, the splashes of energetic colours and modern accessories blend perfectly with medieval ambience.

Aubusson tapestry was recognised by Unesco for its Cultural heritage in 2009 and we had been invited to discover more at the town’s main attraction the Cite international of tapestry (BP 89 – Rue des Arts 23200 Aubusson). The museum opened in summer 2016, previously a learning institution for artisans, it’s more than just a museum, The Cite is a place for creativity in the woven arts. The modern building is home to an eclectic congregation of tapestries from some of the most famous names. The highlight is the Tolkien project, an ambitious undertaking that began in 2013 after negotiations with the Tolkien family. The plan is to produce a collection of tapestries depicting the writers work and ideas by 2021. Work on the first tapestry began in Autumn 2017, that piece, the vivid and

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dreamy « Bilbo comes to the huts of the raft elves (from the hobbit) » was unveiled in April.

Dinner was a gastronomic indulgence at Le Bistrot Gourmand ‘A la Terrade’ (6, rue Alfred Assolant, 23200, Aubusson; 05 55 67 72 22) which offers its guests informal cuisine of the highest quality, in a relaxed atmosphere. The restaurant is spread over two floors in a historic riverside building that was designed and decorated in 2016 by an interior architecture practice.

In good weather a spectacular terrace right on the edge of the water, decked in greenery and flower boxes. will accommodate 24 diners. The menu is a delight, a wonderful mix of traditional dishes using fresh seasonal ingredients with a contemporary twist.

Day Two FROM AUBUSSON TO BOUSSAC : 85 km The weather was glorious, possibly too glorious for a lengthy stint in the saddle (the temperature was expected to reach 31c). The undulating road to Boussac, covering 85km leaves Aubusson northwards on the La Veloroute Est which after a short while climbs gradually. The roads were quiet, the little roads are attractive through the charming villages of SaintDomet and Lussat. My sunglasses had become essential, not only to prevent sun glare but also to protect my eyes from local insects.

Forests and fields flank the roads to étang des Landes, an ornithological reserve Classified in 2004, it occupies an area of 165,584 hectares and protects a pond and its surrounding environment. Encouragingly it shelters more than 950 animal species and nearly 500 plants. The walk around the lake takes approximately 2.5 hours and is well settled, signposted and largely level.

Even in the height of the summer, this glorious hinterland is remarkably quiet and uncrowded, with a pace of life that is far more appealing and relaxing. It was lunchtime when I arrived in Chambon-sur-Voueize, the charm filled village is situated on the boundaries of the Limousin, the Bourbonnais and the Auvergne. Not much was open, apart from the occasional bustling restaurant, it’s a great place to rest, especially by the dramatic abbey-church.

Suitably rested I pushed on towards Boussac. The heat and the climbing increased to a crescendo at Toulx Ste Croix before a speedy descent to Pierres Jaumâtres. Located just on the outskirts of Boussac, this is a magical place dominated by a collection of stone giants. So many legends linger over these enormous blocks of granite which emerge and stand in an improbable balance. Place of sacrifice? Great altar of the druids? Tables of mother goddesses or cradle of the Devil, nobody really knows. The site was a popular place for a walk

by George Sand and Chopin. And it offers a panoramic view of Berry, Bourbonnais and the Boussac Valley.

I was enjoying myself immensely in the saddle, the changing views and the colours of the onset of autumn kept my concentration, it’s sad to think that most people pass through this rural idyll without ever realising how much they are missing.

Practically every village or town in the area has something of interest to offer the visitor, like an ancient church or chateau

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and Boussac is no exception. The Castle of Boussac (23600 Boussac-Bourg; +33 5 55 65 07 62) is famous for the ‘Dame à la Licorne’ tapestries which were discovered by the writer George Sand who often stayed at the chateau, prettily decorated in the style of the time as are all the other rooms in the castle. The owner Madame Blondeau still resides in the chateau, alone. Over time she has collected a myriad of exhibits, including canes, travelling cases, and the exemplary tapestries which are used so effectively to temper the sobriety of the stone.

She is best described as a visionary who has dedicated years to create a wonderful architectural historic site. The spirit of the building is overwhelming, it’s like stepping into a time capsule with the matriarchal Mdme Blondeau overseeing everything, she says “My Husband and I found ourselves in front of the chateau; it had neither doors nor windows. We fell in love with it and bought it. This castle, it’s my life, anything for my castle.

Here, all tastes are catered for, for art, tapestry or object lovers, and for the others there are a selection of vibrant bouquets.

And every year I try and add something new for my faithful clients” The Chateau has not had a placid history, it dates from the 12th, 13th and the beginning of the 15th century and was destroyed by those pesky English. Guided tours are available, but visitors are encouraged to explore for themselves, there is plenty to see.

Our base for the evening was in Nouzerines (7km from Boussac). La Bonne Auberge (1 Rue des Lilas, 23600 Nouzerines; +33 5 55 82 01 18) is a lovely Logis establishment with a respected gastronomic restaurant but unfortunately it was closed. The six rooms are a bucolic delight, decorated with care, each have a different atmosphere and colours. We were ensured a serene nights sleep.

Whether you decide to strike out on your own or follow the path/s we have sleuthed out for you, we encourage you to simply explore and allow yourself to fully immerse in rural France at its best. In Part Two of our journey we will focus on the delights of the Corrèze.

Getting here Plane: There are seasonal flights to Brive de Vallée de la Dordogne airport or year-round flights to Limoges airport from the UK By train: Eurostar to Paris and then jump on the TGV to La Souterraine.

By road: Guéret is 672km from Calais.

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Cycling World August 2015

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August 2015 Cycling World

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THE HIDDEN FRANCE

PART 2

We continue to explore the isolation of the Creuse & Correze – Next stop the mesmerising Correze

Day Three PEYRELEVADE TO VITRAC S/MONTANE : 70 km I was joining the Veloroute Correze which links Peyrelevade to the North (connection with the East Creuse cycle route) to Liourdres in the South , on the borders of the Corrèze and the Lot, this “V 87” cycle route is marked in full and in both directions with signs corresponding to the national charter and European. There are 7 stopping areas with bike parking, table, bench and bin are located along the route on the communes of Peyrelevade, Chaumeil, Vitrac, Saint-Pardouxla-Croisille, Champagnac-la-Prune, Brivezac and Beaulieusur-Dordogne.

I was expecting to notice I was further south and in a new

continued

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region, the architecture usually the main indicator. However, despite their many differences, there is no noticeable boundaries. Today’s ride began in Peyrelevade situated in the forests and peat bogs of the “Plateau de Millevaches”. From the north to the south, the Corrèze is blessed with an extraordinary diversity of stunning natural landscapes encompassing a wide range of protected flora and fauna. This area is rightly referred to as ‘A plateau of legends’, the total route is 146 km, rather hilly, crossing 18 localities from Peyrelevade (next to Creuse area) to Liourdres (next to Lot area) with designated signage and rest areas situated all along the way.

Squeezed between the D18 and the D979 is Bugeat, a stunning introduction to the “Massif des Monédières” with its blanket of heather, and dramatic viewpoints perched above the Dordogne valley. Covering around 60 km², the Monédières Massif is one of the seven landscape entities attached to the Millevaches Regional Nature Park. This unspoilt granite territory is located in the foothills of the Massif Central, in the south-west of the famous Millevaches plateau. Its dry moorlands are a Natura 2000 listed area, meaning that they are an exceptional site for flora and fauna. At the Puy de la Monédière, the Suc au May and Freysselines cirque in the municipality of Chaumeil, you can admire the typical moorland plant life, made up of heather, broom and gorse, as well as wild blueberry bushes, mountain arnica and yellow gentian. When it comes to animal life, you might be lucky enough to see a short-toed snake eagle, woodlark, European nightjar, Montagu’s harrier or green lizard.

As I continued I encountered a collection of wooded slopes with dramatic views of luscious valleys dotted by the occasional home. It felt rather wild and isolated. After an energetic 13 kilometres I entered Lestards, just off the D16. The village is a quiet place with only approximately 120 people, its best feature is its stunning thatch-covered Templar church. At the beginning of the 14th century, the village was under the patronage of the Commandery of Saint-Antoine de Viennois.

The church has Romanesque supports and barrel vaults from the late 12th-early 13th century. The cross vault of warheads in the square of the transept dates from the 15th or the 16th century. The west entrance facade is a wall-gable bell tower, flanked by four buttresses on the corners. The building is covered by a thatched roof (unique in France). Its interior decoration (carved capitals) has been enhanced by a recent restoration. Free access, from 8 am to 7 pm. It’s well worth a visit.

What followed was an attractive ride towards Sarran and the Musee de Jacques Chirac, the journey characterised by harmonious undulating forms and wild unassuming landscapes. My hours pedalling exposed me to the best of isolated France, little side roads leading to small hamlets and fields brimming with the famous Limousin cattle.

The Museum of Président Jacques Chirac is based on collection of gifts that the ex-president (He served as President of France and ex officio Co-Prince of Andorra from 1995 to 2007) received in the execution of his duties. It contains approximately 5000 items, some orthodox others bizarre.

The exhibits give us a real insight into the expected protocol at the higher echelons of power. Some people might think the process of exchanging gifts obscene, however this collection is testament to the popularity of the Président, especially his portraits on exhibition temporarily.

It was Monday and the museum is closed it would had been

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great if the man himself had arranged access, more realistic and less dramatic was the Tourist board had pulled some strings and we met the manager Michele who allowed us full access and free reign. The chance to explore the corridors unhindered was invigorating, Michele explained that the majority of visitors are French, but they hope to spread their cultural net wider. The contemporary building houses a permanent collection of gifts (150 items), divided into geopolitical areas and the context in which they were given (eg State visits, international summits, private visits etc) and previously mentioned, several temporary exhibitions.

Down the D143 for about 10 minutes, we reached the stunning village of Corrèze and our overnight base. Dozing in a valley surrounded by wooded hillsides, the town is a pleasant little place for a stroll, especially the ancient quarter dominated by the Port Margot which opens out into an attractive square.

Sleepy and relaxed, its little artisan shops and tall houses are shuttered most of the day.

The first known mention of Corrèze dates from the ninth century A.D.. Later, it became a stop along the pilgrimage to Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle, or Santiago de Compostella, and a town formed around the church. Spread out around the sturdy square is the beautiful and strange Church of SaintMartial, the entrance is overwhelmed by ornate sculpture. It was burnt down by the English during the Hundred Years War but rebuilt later in the fifteenth century.

The town is home to some stunning medieval houses with some unusual architectural features, including a variety of turrets and carvings, mostly dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. The architecture is typically in the renaissance style.

Our overnight indulgence was at Hôtel la Séniorie, it stands above a jumble of irregularly shaped buildings under roofs of different levels of the village below. Its matriarchal presence dominates, the traditional manor house appearance is a delight. This place is simply fabulous, the rooms are extravagantly spacious, the views unbelievable and there is a pool.

That evening we ate like gods, the terrace was awash with salivating diners. The food was delicious, once again a wonderful mix of traditional and contemporary, all served in the glare of vibrant moonlight

Day Four FROM VITRAC S/MONTANE TO LIOURDRES : 76 km My final day was to be the most picturesque of the trip, with plenty of tiny roads shaded from the sky and the dramatic presence of the Dordogne river. Thick forest, bright waters, elevation-freshened temperatures and some winding downhills, It’s not surprising that with more than 1,000 kilometres of marked MTB trails from 17 municipalities, the Haute-Corrèze Mountain Bike Area is the largest network labeled FFVélo de France.

The 50 family circuits, or reserved for experienced practitioners, have a length of 4 to 51 km with gradients from 10 to more than 1,000 meters. Breathtaking landscapes, views of the Monts d’Auvergne and Sancy, detours by the major natural tourist sites of the Plateau de Millevaches: peat bogs of Longeyroux and Négarioux, Chavanon and Diège gorges … Links between circuits make it possible to carry out stages with different

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ninth century by Raoul de Turenne, archbishop of Bourges, remains the abbey St Peter which has one of the most beautiful tympanums of French art representing the return of Christ at the end of time. Many of the medieval houses have been well restored.

We met Gilles from Corrèze Tourism by the water and the twelfth century Chapel of the Penitents, near the port-high to explore the water by barge. First parish church of Beaulieu, it was sold to the Revolution and its function was transferred to the abbey. Purchased by a priest in 1820, it became the seat of the brotherhood of blue penitents until 1870. It serves as an exhibition hall and concerts during the summer season. The water was so peaceful, the boatman (Alain) looked identical to Herge’s Captain Haddock, and it’s definitely not to be missed.

starting and finishing points. Routes over several days are possible with accommodation solutions nearby (campsites, lodges, bed and breakfast, holiday village). ATV rental point: all year long at the castle of Diège, in summer at Eygurande and Sèchemailles.

A little scenic route to the south from Clergoux took me to the hamlet of the peaceful Saint-Pardoux-la-Croisille. I took a break in the lovely La Roche Canillac, the views over the Doustre gorges are not to be missed. The little town is divided into two parts: the Roche-Haute, built on the plateau, and the Roche Basse, nestling into the hillside 50m below. Founded in the 9C, the Roche-Basse is criss-crossed by narrow paths known as “courrijoux”, which allow access to the terraced plots used for growing crops. After a coffee and a labouring stroll, I pushed on further south towards Argentat.

Time permitting, consider a visit to Sedieres Castle, a XVth century castle, fully restored and located 3 km from Clergoux, in a beautiful green setting and surrounded by ponds. It offers a certified leisure bike base with 12 marked trails from 5 to 96 km, 6 routes from 23 to 84 km, a free Bike Park and is open to all abilities with free access to 3 specific nature trails marked out from the castle (1 green circuit 5.2 km, 1 blue circuit 9 km, 1 red circuit 14 km) – 3 courses marked out of the excursions registered with the PDIPR with departure in front of the castle.

Argentat sur Dordogne is beautifully sat on the banks of the Dordogne, once an ancient trading port for gabare boatmen.

Known as the Venice of Berry, it’s very picturesque with typical old houses with galleries, traditional paved quaysides and lauze stone rooftops reflected in the water of the river. The best places to admire this beautiful scene isthe old bridge over the river or the terrace of Bonne-Dame chapel perched on the hillside above, where the view over the rooftops and valley is stunning. It is undoubtedly one of the most attractive towns in the area.

The countryside remained calm and flat, every turned corner yields stunning views of the river. The route in fact follows the side of the Dordogne, forest and walnut groves flank the road. I breezed in and out of a selection of quirky villages less touched by tourism before my arrival in Beaulieu sur Dordogne.

The town is a most likeable place and much still happens on the river, try not to miss the chance to catch a gabare boat trip.

Once a medieval city strategically placed on the right bank of the Dordogne, Beaulieu was nicknamed “the Riviera limousine” thanks to the mild climate conducive to the cultivation of strawberry. Of the entire Benedictine abbey founded in the

A gentle wander back to our accommodation through the atmospheric streets exposed us to the superabundance of charm that the town possess. The Hôtel le Beaulieu (place du champ de Mars) Tél. 33 (0)5 55 91 01 34) is strategically placed and has 25 comfortable rooms perfectly suited to your holiday or business travel. The characterful building has a selection of spacious rooms decorated in a rural style, with a lounge, terrace and a popular restaurant serving quality traditional food in a relaxed setting.

Whether you decide to strike out on your own or follow the path/s we have sleuthed out for you, we encourage you to simply explore and allow yourself to fully immerse in rural France at its best.

Getting here Plane: There are seasonal flights to Brive de Vallée de la Dordogne airport or year-round flights to Limoges airport from the UK By train: Eurostar to Paris and then jump on the TGV to Brivela-Gaillarde For more information on the Creuse – Click Here

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CYCLING MIRROR

THE MIRROR

THAT CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE Jamais Contente (Never Happy): the name of the car that, way back in 1899, was the first to go at 100 km/h. This name could also describe Carlo Dondo (1942): he is never entirely satisfied with his creations; his first thoughts are how he can improve them and simultaneously invent something new and useful

Being an inventor is not a job, but a state of mind.

It’s a kind of virus that gets into your bloodstream as a child, one that Carlo soon learned to recognise and take advantage of amid the one thousand and one necessities and surprises of everyday life. Finding in Switzerland a more receptive and productive base than in Italy, he left when he was just sixteen years old.

The idea of the drop bar mirrors came from a traumatic experience of Carlo Dondo, after two serious accidents on his custom made racing bike. Two accidents that could have been avoided if only he hadn’t had to turn around to check the traffic behind him. His innate passion for cycling urged him to find a solution suitable for all road bike enthusiasts.

N SAVE YOUR LIFE

ack in ribe ons; sly

hat d to one a hen

ce of ing

The license plate device Carlo invented in 1984, for which he won his first Silver and Gold medals in Geneva and Brussels, was already a consolidated business at the end of the last Millennium. So much so that a few years’ much so that a few years after selling his business to a third party he started to focus on and improve every aspect of the product range that embodies his entrepreneurial philosophy: the Sprintech® Racing drop bar mirror for racing bicycles and the Sprintech® City for MTB were born. Just as had happened for the license plate device, when the drop bar mirrors were presented at the Innovation Exhibition in Martigny in Switzerland in 1996 they won the second prize for Innovation and in

s all

n his first Silver and Gold medals in Geneva and ast millennium, so much so that a few years

2012 the Gold Medal at the International Invention Exhibitions in Brussels and Geneva.

Today, the Sprintech® mirrors have earned the reputation among cyclists as the best in the industry. When other brands rattle and spin out of position, Sprintech® mirrors hold true. Riders value the superior quality of these products thanks to their sleek design and ease of fitting. They are unobtrusive, adjustable and secure positioning when riding over cobbles or bumps. Once used, you will wonder how you navigated the roads without them!

SEEING WELL is only the first half of safety. The second is BEING SEEN. Carlo understood this early on and, between one ride and another, he began to reflect on this. Something that would ALWAYS be visible while riding, especially for the biggest threat to cyclists: the car behind them.

As a result, SPRINTECH® VISION 360° was created, uniting reflective power and movement.

Tests carried out the perception distance at a speed of 50 km/h at dusk/darkness goes from 25 METRES without Vision 360°, to a staggering 150 METRES with two Vision reflectors affixed to the back wheel’s spokes; making cyclists visible 9 seconds earlier. This is more than enough time for car drivers to adjust their speed and avoid any danger to the cyclist. Recognition for the innovation and its usefulness again came from the panel at the Brussels International Exhibition in 2012 where SPRINTECH® VISION 360° won the Gold medal.

The SPRINTECH® products are made in Switzerland. More information can be found on www.sprintech.eu

BIKE BIKE MAGAZINE MAGAZINE 23 21

BICYCLE SAFETY ACCESSORIES

WWW.SJSCYCLES.COM When it comes to safety and dependability, there is one choice that has proven to stand out above the rest, SPRINTECH, made in Switzerland. Easy to install and instinctive to use. Unobtrusive, adjustable and light, only 28grams including the mounting plug.

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Sprintech® Racing and Sprintech® City mirrors have AWARD W earned the reputation among cyclists as the best in the industry. When other brands rattle and spin out SPRINTECH® R ® bar mirror for r of position, Sprintech mirrors holdRACING true.

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and SPRINTEC city bikes and invented and p the Innovation invented andfrom presented at the Innovation The idea of the drop bar mirrors came two in Martigny, S traumatic experiencesExhibition of Carlo Dondo.

Two in 1996 where in Martigny, Switzerland serious accidents on his tailor made racing bike. the prize for I in have 1996 where they won the prize for and in 2012 at t Two accidents that could been avoided if only he hadn’t had to Innovation turn his head to check and in 2012 at the BrusselsInternational E the traffic behind him. His innate passion for Belgium wher International Exhibition in Belgium where the gold m bicycles urges him to find a solution suitable for all racing bicycle enthusiasts him.the gold medal. they like won

for racing bikes and SPRINTECH®

SPRINTECH® RACING and SPRINTECH® CITY are made in Europe.

CITYoffor city bikes and74MTB were They are all original creations Carlo Dondo, cyclist, years old.

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24 BIKE MAGAZINE

REDSPOKES

REDSPOKES ADVENTURE TOURS redspokes Adventure Tours, a specialist adventure travel company, takes small groups of cyclists to spectacular and remote areas of the world. We offer a unique blend of physical challenges, cultural experiences and cycling camaraderie – all at highly competitive prices. redspokes guides are experienced cyclists and tour leaders. redspokes is the leading specialist company for high altitude cycling. Our tours to Tibet and the Indian Himalayas are in high demand. In Tibet, you will cross five major passes over 5, 000 metres and in India you will climb the highest road pass in the world. Each trip presents its own challenges and we rate them as expeditions rather than holidays.

We offer challenging rides in South America and Asia and relaxed holiday itineraries in South Thailand and Cambodia.

Whatever your cycling level you’re sure to find a redspokes trip

that meets your expectations and opens your eyes the world of adventure cycling.

The ever-growing popularity of the electric bikes has resulted in mixed ability rides becoming a reality for groups of friends and has enabled even the more tentative riders to take on new challenges with the benefit of a boost on mountainous rides. So, if your partner fancies their chances on the Tour de France but you are more relaxed in your ambitions, you’ll both be able to enjoy riding the same routes. The popularity of our most established tours to Laos, Vietnam, Nepal, Kerala, Tibet, Pakistan and Argentina/Chile has led to an increased number of destinations. Additional tours in recent years include Sri Lanka, Albania, Yunnan, Uzbekistan.

Increasingly we are catering for private groups providing tailored adventure trips for groups from 2 -24 people.

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REDSPOKES

What our customers say: Jeremy Bird MD Wickes

Tibet - Lhasa to Kathmandu Although it’s now four months since we returned from the Himalayas, it’s never too late to say ‘thank you’. I organise and lead a different group of work colleagues on an expedition to raise money for charity each year and we have been to some extreme places and done some great things - so think I’m pretty well qualified to comment on the skills of the different organisations we’ve worked with over the years. redspokes turned out to be the best we’ve worked with yet and the next time we go cycling it will be you we come to first. In particular I would like to single out Giles and Ox who made a great team and dealt with the uncertainties of life in Nepal and Tibet with all the flexibility and great humour you could hope for - not everything went to plan and not everything was perfect, it never is on trips to places like that, but every challenge was met and overcome without unnecessary fuss and minimum disruption.

We had a brilliant time with redspokes and will recommend you to every cyclist we meet.

Dale Beames, Florida, USA Before leaving for this trip I told my daughter that it would be either really bad or really good. I’m happy to report it was the latter. This trip in every way exceeded my expectations.

Geovanny and Adrian had thought of every detail. They know

the small towns we visited well and always offered something extra at each stop, be it a trip to a coffee farm or seeing scrambled eggs made with an espresso machine! Julian was an excellent bicycle guide and is an exceptionally talented cyclist. Adrian, Julian, and Javier were always available to answer questions, provide snacks while cycling, and help us get set in the hotels and with meals. I’m 59 years old and live in flat, flat South Florida in the US. I was worried that despite my preparation I would ride poorly up hills and at elevation. I wasn’t fast, but I was able to complete all segments. Colombia is a beautiful place populated with wonderful people. My advice for those considering this trip: do it. Also: I rented a bike there and that turned out to be the best decision, other than signing up for the tour initially, that I made. The bikes had hydraulic disc brakes for the descents and were geared appropriately for the ascents. The crew brought along knobby tires for the rougher roads. Every detail was thought out in advance. I’m already thinking about going back when they change the route!

Family holidays Lyn Kirkaldy, Collingwood, Australia Cambodia I’m a 57-year-old lady who has only been riding a bike for 12 months. I cannot believe how much I enjoyed this whole adventure. I was able to really challenge myself and always felt safe. Our guide was amazing as a bike guide and was so informative and had a great sense of humour. Then there was Mr Sim our van driver who always made sure we were fed; we

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REDSPOKES

called the van the party bus as we loved his music. Then our young mechanic Proc (who we called Bruce) who was at my side the entire time ensuring I was safe. I was like his mum and I just loved him. He couldn’t do enough for us. The whole adventure was far better than I expected I just loved the whole experience with the rest of the group too.

We just had sooo much fun. Thank you to my niece Laura for taking me on this incredible adventure and thank you to redspokes for an awesome team.

Andy Wigggans Albania North to South

soon before it gets too busy.

Ethical Travel: At redspokes we are committed to ensuring that our tours not only support the local economies but also respect local cultures. We do this by employing local guides and drivers, staying mostly in family run accommodation and where possible building relationships with the local communities.

Ensuring that our trips make as little environmental impact as possible is also essential to redspokes. We welcome travellers who, like us, wish to promote better understanding and awareness among people from different cultures and backgrounds.

With redspokes you will be travelling in small groups averaging 12 people (not exceeding 16). We feel that this is important because it causes as little environmental damage and disturbance as possible, whilst making it easier to make genuine contact with local people.

We have also found that in smaller groups it can be easier to develop a sense of camaraderie and friendship with your fellow travellers.

Wendy Holland, Whangarei, New Zealand Pakistan to Kyrgyzstan

Flawless organisation and support throughout; fabulous Albanian hospitality, food and accommodation; a glimpse of a country yet to be “infested” by our takeaway culture - not one McDonalds or Starbucks in sight; fabulous snow-capped mountains and fields full of poppies; and a chance to learn all about the culture and history of this land and its people.

I was a month short of 70 when I did the trip and worried about a slightly dodgy knee. No need to have been too concerned, not least because of the friendly and supportive group with whom I rode. If I can make it so can you. Go

My second trip with redspokes and it didn’t disappoint. Thank you so much for the opportunity to be absolutely blown away by northern Pakistan - I just loved it - for me it was a garden of Eden; I had no idea how bountiful and rich it was - not to mention the sky filled with mountains. Loved the people, their openness, friendliness and hospitality - loved the fact that we visited 2 amazing schools and a sewing centre supported by redspokes - this is one of the big reasons why I love redspokes NORTHERN PAKISTAN YOU MUST GO!!.

Relished the opportunity to step into China especially cycling over a mountain pass where I was very challenged by the altitude and an amazing authentic yurt experience and then Kyrgyzstan what a beautiful country - our time was too short there YOU MUST GO - I would go back to northern Pakistan and Kyrgyzstan in a heartbeat!. We had a fantastic group and guides and UK cycle guide, the cheeky and humour-filled Aidan - alright guv - thank you everyone

for your friendship, care and support. Till next time redspokes, Arohanui Brian Ingle,England UK Kyrgyzstan A fantastic adventure in an amazing country. The tour took us through a varied environment of the dry rocky lowlands to the lush green of the higher mountains. It was a step back in time as we encountered the hospitality and welcome of traditional nomadic people in their yurts and shared the open plains with wild horses. The locals seemed as interested in us as we were in them as tourism in this area is truly in its infancy.

We exchanged a ride on their horses for a ride on our bikes and although maybe didn’t enjoy the taste we certainly appreciated the kind offer of fermented mare’s milk.

With long periods away from any villages or shops it is great to have the support of the excellent redspokes staff and vehicles to carry all the food, water and camping equipment. I look forward to my next trip!

For more information +44(0)20 7502 7252 office@redspokes.co.uk www.redspokes.co.uk

BIKE MAGAZINE 27

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28 BIKE MAGAZINE

Aurelie and Marco

CYCLING THE PAMIR HIGHWAY Amazing sceneries and a solitary road which takes you up one of the highest cyclable places on Earth, but is that really all there is to it?

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PAMIR HIGHWAY

We had been literally training and preparing for this for years. The Pamir Highway ranks in the top places to be on a bike on most lists and yet it remains, somehow, a pretty exotic destination.

Although many cyclists undergo this epic route every year and information is ready available on the World Wide Web, we were there for a month and we didn’t bump into many other two-wheelers. Furthermore, most of them are travelling light. Like Pierre, a French bikepacker on a 2 week holiday who makes our fully loaded bikes look like container ships.

For those at the back, The Pamir Highway was built long ago by the Russian Empire (yes, that long ago) to supply their southernmost border with troops and stop the advance of the Brits which were quickly spreading north from India and threatened to flood Central Asia with unwanted competition. This border just happens to be surrounded by countless 12 and 13 thousand feet peaks between modern days Tajikistan and Afghanistan.

History and geography are nice but what this translates into is quite simple; almost a thousand miles of river bends, deep valleys and open plateau, far from civilization and only breathtaking views with which to waste time and go crazy with the camera. Well, at least this is what we thought and it’s definitely the idea one is likely to get when reading blogs about it, but the reality is not quite so. Before getting into the specifics though, let me take you back a little.

Admittedly, if I had to plan a trip to this part of the world, I probably wouldn’t. The Pamir is renowned for being the second highest in the world and although cycling is by far one of my favourite activities on this planet, the fact alone that several hundred miles of this route are spent above 10.000 feet leaves you wondering about the preparation involved for such endeavour. And, to be fair, there are other perfectly cyclable mountain ranges a lot closer to home and a lot more accessible.

However, while planning our longhaul trip to Singapore, we realised that we would stroll pass the vicinity of this epic road. The decision to takle it was taken without a moment hesitation.

We told ourselves that by the time we’d get there we will definitely be fit and experienced enough and that it might be a slow climb up the 12.000 feet passes, but that it wouldn’t be the same if we came all the way to Tajikistan and not even try it. What is there to lose?

So, as time and kilometres went by, we had to overcome many problems, most of them involving Visas and other red tape issues most travellers face when outside of their homeland, but The Pamir was always on our minds. Every climb was a small training exercise and at the end of every hard day we’d tell each other that The Pamir would probably be a similar ordeal.

Aurelie and Marco are cycling from Helsinki to Singapore and fundraising for two bycicle related associations.

To find out more: 421adventure.wordpress.com or @421Adventure on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube

Once in Dushambe, the capital of Tajikistan, there was only one thing left to do; climb. Well, actually, that’s a lie, we spent most of our time there looking for suitable sleeping bags since ours had served us very well up to now but with night temperatures well below freezing even in May, we needed to find a good alternative or risk hyperthermia every time we set up camp.

So, finally, off we were! The first few days out of Dushambe are spent in open countryside, going up and down fluorescent green rolling hills

“Pedaling along the Panj River, you slowly wind up, following the slender valley and experiencing different levels of road surfaces but always along the same magnificent landscape”

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PAMIR HIGHWAY

and little towns where everything is ready available,especially friendly locals.

Once we even had the pleasure of being hosted by the owner of a public bathhouse which actually had a sauna!

Just to make this little anecdote a little better, we had been sharing the roads with two Swedes, who practically live in those things, and it had been a cold and rainy day; so you can imagine how it felt like an heavenly gift!

The road which connects the capital with the first town on The Pamir is wide enough to offer a safe shoulder on which to cycle and is incredibly well kept and sealed. Then, after the first real mountain pass, the scenery changes drastically and after a long, steep downhill between beautiful mountains and a river 500 feet below you, the valley opens up and you are, at last, plunged into another world.

Anyone who has ever been to the Alps or similar knows what I’m talking about; naturally, the first thing you notice are the huge peeks just ahead. You’re at 3000 feet so how high are they? You slow down just a little and take a second to study the enormous, green valley and you immediately remember that you’ve analysed the map various times before and that on the other side of the river is Afghanistan. That little village on the opposide shore is that country you’ve heard so much about on the news!

And then, as a good cyclist, you also remember that what had marked you the most about that map was the fact that this is also the place where those

hairpins were and, undoubtedly, as you get closer to the guardrail, you see it many many feet below you; fun at it’s purest.

It had been an overall difficult, hot and sticky day but we found a wild camping place with a fountain so, after a cold shower and a warm dinner, we tooked in for the night and dreamt of what else the Pamir would have in store for us.

This quickly brings us to a very important conversation topic regarding the Pamir; water. Maybe in summer the situation is different high up in the

plateau, that would explain why tons of cyclists insist on climbing up there with several bottles strapped to their panniers, but in Spring, good H2O is readly available everywhere. Even on the plateau you can just ask any of the very few houses scattered here and there and the dweller will happily supply you straight from their stash or well.

Back to the road. Pedaling along the Panj River, you slowly wind up, following the slender valley and experiencing different levels of road surfaces but always along the same magnificent landscape, one which has been carved over million of years by the elements and which has left a magnificent scenery where you can always hear the rumble of the water and very regularly see Afghan villages on the other side.

Sometimes they are so close you can actually see inside the houses and shout “hello” back to the kids who are waving at you from that world so far yet so close.

One evening, we found a great camping spot sheltered from the wind but, maybe, a little too close to a village which laid just on the other shore of the river. Just as we were about to wash up and wrap up for the night, a group of Tajik soldiers approached us and suggested we may want to move a few hundred yards in any direction to avoid said closeness.

Obviously, at 10pm the last thing anyone wants to do is move camp, so we politely insisted to stay and after a little while they agreed but only if two sentinels stayed with us, at an appropriate

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PAMIR HIGHWAY

distance, and kept guard all night. We offered coffee, they denied. In hindsight, knowing what I knew at the time about Tajik customs, I should have gone for black tea.

This anecdote also served the double purpose of bringing about the topic of security along the almost 200 miles bordering section which Tajikistan shares with its controversial neighbour.

In 2018 this area was tragically hit by a terrorist attack against a group of cyclists and the government has taken very heavy actions to show the whole world that that shouldn’t stop mountain lovers from experiencing the Pamir.

And so this stretch is constantly being patrolled and surveyed by the army and, if I may say so, they are rather friendly with tourists and even more so with cyclists (we do deserve special treatment!). At any point did we, or anyone else we spoke to, feel in danger while there. Au contraire, given the recent events, we got the feeling that locals were trying even harder to show their best side.

Having said this, it is a quite unique experience to be able to discretly observe a country while in the absolute safety of another and it’s an activity which we rather enjoyed. In two small cities along the way, and only on special given days, it’s also possible to attend markets where Tajiks and Afghans gather in unique free zones and exchange not only goods but also time together.

The Panj joyfully escorts you all the way to Khorog where you should grasp the chance to stock up on supplies and, why not, spalsh out in a restaurant with more than one dish on its menu. As soon as you leave its hustle and bustle, the road slowly takes you higher and further away from towns and through villages, then settlements, until you arrive to Jerundy with its hot water springs renouned for bringing health to your joints and muscles; unmissable in any time of the year and an absolute during the cold months (i.e. from October to May). After all, how many times does life offer you the chance to stay in a Sovietic Sanitarium style facility?

Without any doubts though, the part of the Pamir which we loved above all is the one which is above all the rest… we’re talking altitude now! At this point you understand why most people tend to concentrate their efforts on this section.

Not having any previous practice at this height, we weren’t really sure what to expect but the result is far better than we thought; most peaks are still snowcapped but the roads are clear and so is most of the land around us. We had never thought that nothingness could be so magical; tranquility is queen and wild camping is as easy as pointing with your finger and saying “there”!

This plateau is basically just a series of huge valleys, each with its own peculiarities and colours. At every turn you are astonished by the latest mouthopening view or the surprise of either a short climb to warm you up a little or a pleasant descent with a nice little bend, if you’re lucky.

Sceneries come and sceneries go on the Pamir but, without any doubt, the element which remains the most constant along the way are Tajiks

themselves. 7 out of 10 times you will feel like you’re alone until you hit any type of settlement, big or tiny as it may be, and then the human contact is inevitable. Level 1 is kids waiting for you by the roadside, waving, shouting “hello” or simply looking at you astonished.

Next levels include being invited for tea and biscuits, lunch or dinner and even a bed or a safe place to set up the tent (locals consider the Pamir to be highly dangerous).

It’s a common feeling to cherish the time spent in this unforgettable mountain chain for as long as one draws breath where a great cycling challenge merges with amazing views, the chance to immerse in a local culture and also share unique moments with its inhabitants and go back home with lots more than just a couple of SD Cards full of pictures and an applauding Strava account.

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34 BIKE MAGAZINE

TOUR TRANSALP

LEGENDARY ALPINE CROSSING will take a new route The starting shot for the 22nd BIKE Transalp will be fired on 14 July 2019 in Tux, in Austria’s Zillertal region. But the starting point of the Transalp will not be the only site celebrating its premiere in 2019 during the mother of worldwide mountain bike stage races: for the first time in Transalp history, the new location of Molveno in Trentino-South Tyrol, where up to 1,000 mountain bikers from more than 30 nations will arrive on 20th July, will also replace Riva del Garda as a destination town. There will also be an individual classification for the first time, in addition to the traditional team classification. The route will include seven stages and a total distance of 550 kilometres as well as 18,500 metres of elevation. Those, who do not want to ride the whole course, but still be part of the race, can book the taster session and only ride one or two stages Bielefeld/Hamburg/Munich, 28th May. It is considered the first mountain bike stage race in the Alps and enjoys a superb reputation in the international cycling world. This year’s race will be the 22nd BIKE Transalp (14th to 20th of July 2019). Several thousand mountain bikers have experienced the mythical Transalp since its inception – with many racing repeatedly, and up to now, always in teams of two cyclists.

That will change in 2019, when among the 1,000 starting places, there will be a limited number of 200 individual competitors in the five categories: men, women, men’s masters from 40 years of age, men’s grand masters from 60 years of age, and the under 23 classification.

The route with the three new stage locations in Tux, Eggental in South Tyrol and Molveno was meticulously designed by race and track

manager Marc Schneider and is sprinkled with numerous trail passages which have not yet been ridden in any Transalp race. A very special highlight awaits the international field of participants at the finish line for the race on the shores of Lago di Molveno with its impressive mountain scenery.

“The Transalp includes everything the Alps have to offer mountain bikers: completely new panoramic trails in the high mountains like the new path from the Tuxer Joch to the Schirntal, fun tracks like the flowing ‘Jerry Line’ in the Brixen Bikepark and the Carezza Trail in Eggental,” says Marc Schneider, describing some of the new sections.

Stage victory for Gschnitzer (IT) and Pechtl (AT) The second stage of the 17th TOUR Transalp was quite an affair. At temperatures over

BIKE MAGAZINE 35

TOUR TRANSALP

Gran Canaria. „I find mountain stages much easier than flat courses.“ Thanks to his victory of the day, he will slip into the leader jersey of the individual classification. His aim: to keep the shirt till Riva del Garda.

With more than six minutes delay the Italian team Daniele Terzi and Piero Lorenzini (Argon 18-Hicari) finished the race, followed by the German duo Duo Tom Walther and Nils Kessler (Team Strassacker1/radsport-news.com). „We were riding the race very controlled today and did not start too fast at the Penser Joch “, says Kessler.

Riding in the yellow jersey today, Riccardo Zacchi and Christian Martinelli from Italy could not defend their overall win. They finished sixth. Zacchi: „Today it was tough from the very beginning.”

35 degree, the riders had to cross the Penser Joch and the Schermoos Sattel. Overall the stage covered 3473 meters of elevation, stretching over 143,4 kilometres. There is a new overall winner in the men classification: Thomas Gschnitzer (IT) and Daniel Pechtl (AT) from Team-Tec Automation rode into the yellow jersey. “The last two kilometres with several ups and downs have been a nightmare”, says Gschnitzer, exhausted but happy about the success.

Kaltern, 24 June. In one group with the individual starter Mathias Nothegger (AT) Pechtl and Gschnitzner took the lead from the second pass. Finally Nothegger crossed the finish line as the fastest rider of the day. The heat could not stop the Austrian, spending most of his time in

Although the Belgian women team Inge van den Broeck und Katleen Luypaert (#GFTbe Chicas) reached only second podium, they kept their pink jersey.

Different to their husbend: Jurgen Van Goolen and Bart Van Kerkhoven (#GFTbe los azules) lost their overall lead in the Masters category to the Austrian Bernhard Kohl Racing Team (AT) Jürgen Pansy and Mattias Wolf.

More successful finished the Italian mixed duo Carlo Muraro und Tatiana Guderzo (Pink Dream). Tomorrow, they will again start in the orange shirt. So does Janine Meyer (GER), the fastest individual female starter of the race, and also Udo Bölts, the former pro rider, who suffered a lot from the heat, but still came first in the Grand Masters category.

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TOUR TRANSALP

you want to do once in your life“, says the US-American Jeffrey Henderson. He had to admit that he had underestimated the conditions of the race a little bit. „Yesterday was the hardest day in my life, seriously.“ Apart from that the American is enjoying „the great landscape and the beautiful mountains“.

Stage 4 leads from Bormio to Livigno The Queen stage

Stage 3 TOUR Transalp: Short but challenging from Kaltern to Passo Tonale Italian mixed rider extend their lead Due to the risk of landslides the route of the third stage had to be changed.

Unfortunately the popular Passo Gavia was not part of the course. Quite disappointed about missing this famous pass has been Tatiana Guderzo (IT), one of the best road racers in the world, who is using the TOUR Transalp to prepare for the Giro Rosa. Nevertheless, the third stage was very successful for the Italian and her team partner Carlo Muraro: They mastered the 85 km as the best team in the mixed classification with a lead of almost ten minutes and extended their overall lead.

Bormio, 25 June 2019. Day three of the TOUR Transalp was a good day, especially for the Italian teams. Team Argon 18-Hicari - Daniele Terzi and Piero Lorenzini - was the fastest duo, to reach the top of the Passo Gavia. They are now second in the men overall classification behind Daniel Pechtl (AT) and Thomas Gschnitzer (IT) from Tirol TEAM-TEC Automation, who finished second today.

Terzi: „Yesterday we really suffered, but today was also hard, because it was a short stage and we gave full speed.“ Also Tatiana Guderzo has done her best. To take part in a mixed race with both male and female riders, is a total new experience for her: „In the women races there are many climbs as well, but with less meters of altitude.” She enjoys the relaxed atmosphere of the TOUR Transalp. „The riders are always smiling.“

This is unusually for me, because at women races there is a tension and many aggressive riders, pushing to the front. This is also a race, but I can still enjoy the view and this is very important for my mind.“ Having fun on the road is most important for the women team #GFTbe Chicas - Katleen Luypaert and Inge Van den Broeck - from Belgium. They lost their leader jersey today, but not there smile.

Four minutes faster have been Linda Stuurman and Carla Mellema. The Dutch team will start in the leader shirt tomorrow.

For most of the riders, the stage race is rather about competing, than about a personal challenge. „Something, that

The fourth stage, leading the riders from Bormio to Livigno with a side trip to Switzerland, was not easy, but worth every drop of sweat. For many participants, the route with four impressive mountain passes has been one of the most scenic stages so far.

Especially for Transalp newcomers the course, covering the Umbrailpass, Ofenpass, Passo Bernina and Forcola di Livigno, was both impressive and challenging.

Livigno 26 June 2019. Tsutomu Inoue, who comes from Japan but lives in Hamburg (GER), enjoyed the stage, although he was riding at his limits. He has been on the road for about eight hours – a normal working day. “But much more exhausting – and much more fun, too“, the 54 year old says. „During the race I often ask myself, why I’m actually doing this.“ But giving up is not an option for the teacher. “I told my pupils about my plans, so I have to finish it.”

Also for the Austrian team Harry Pancis (Salzburg) and Walter Weineisen (Tyrol) the fourth stage has been a highlight. Together they are 138 years

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TOUR TRANSALP

old and probably the oldest team of the race. „Doing the TOUR Transalp is the highlight of our friendship“, says Weineisen (70). He has already done the race three times, but for his mate (68) it is a premiere.

They got to know each other during another stage race. Weineisen: “We have been together on the podium and came down as friends.” And what are their plans after finishing in Riva del Garda?

The duo wants to ride the Mondsee Marathon, covering 200 km, just one day after the finish of the TOUR Transalp.

Pancis: “We are registered at least…”

The stage race is also a big first time for this German female trio: Gitta Fernau, Petra Marton and Susanne Milowsky.

Together they mastered all three stages with a smile. “We love to cycle and were looking for a big sportive challenge”, the 50+ women say. Their aim was, to not be collected by the broom wagon and so far, they have not even seen the car once.

Fifth stage from Livigno to Aprica / Stage victory for Italians Wonderful torture at the “Ascent of Pantani”

The fifth stage over the Passo Mortirolo has been a nice walk – at least for the German duo Klaus Wermker (76) and Arndt Paykowski (56). But not, because the nasty ascent with an average incline of more than 10 % was easy. “We surely have to get off our bikes and walk the mountain”, Paykowski says. But despite they won’t miss the fun. After all, they have a special motivation.

Aprica 27 June 2019. The fifth stage covered 110 kilometres and 2500 meters of elevation, crossing Passo d’Eira, Passo Foscagno and the steepest ascent: Passo Mortirolo. Some riders take part in the TOUR Transalp to win, others to prove themselves, to just have fun or to ride for charity reason. Such do Klaus Wermker and Arndt Paykowski. They support the project „Glückskinder“, helping young children at school. On a similar mission is the German-Austrian Team Plasmatreat. Jannik Tautz and his colleagues are sweating and suffering for a children hospice. Their shirts are decorated with butterflies, painted by the children. Tautz: “The butterflies give us wings to continue, when it comes to suffering at the ascents.”

Almost flying above the mountain

passes were the leading riders. Within 3:25.05,9 the Italian Daniele Terzi and Piero Lorenzini reached the finish first.

At the ascent of the Mortirolo, they managed to break away, but almost got caught before the finish. “So we had to really speed up in the end”, Lorenzini says.

Second podium goes to Erik Franssen and Stefan Verhaaf (NL), followed by Riccardo Zacchi and Christian Martinelli (IT). 30 minutes later than the first team came the best mixed duo Tatiana Guderzo and Carlo Muraro (IT). The Dutch Team Linda Stuurman and Carla Mellema (4:22.26,0) finished as the fastest women-duo.

Also still in the race are the German Grand Masters Rolf Steffes and Ralf Küpper. „After suffering a lot on the first stages, giving up is not an option“, explains Steffes, and his mate admits: „This is the hardest, we’ve ever experienced.“ But they make the most of it, take many pictures of the scenery, refresh in a stream and relax over an ice cream.

Their motivation: “We want to get the finisher tricot and jump into Lake Garda!”

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NEWCASTLE TO EDINBURGH

INDUSTRY INSIDE

Cycling in Northumberland - the coast and castles tour

BIKE MAGAZINE 39

COAST AND CASTLES

Jonathan and Lesley Williams take a few days off and do some cycling in Northumberland into the wind.

The Route

The prospect of a bike ride that involved cycling along the Northumberland coast passing iconic sights such as Warkworth castle, Bamburgh castle and Lindisfarne, followed by a ride through the beautiful southern uplands to Edinburgh was irresistible. It’s considered to be one of the national cycle network’s easier long distance routes, especially if you have the prevailing wind behind you.

The way-marked ‘Coast and Castles’ National Cycle route begins at Newcastle railway station, and for the first twelve miles shares the route with the C2C cycle route, as far as Tynemouth. From there we headed into the wind up the coast, passing through Whitley Bay and the somewhat unexciting sounding Seaton Sluice until we reached Blythe. A fine cafe in a large well-tended park, set with seating both inside and out, provided a tasty hot lunch, reviving us ready for the afternoon.

It had been a tough morning battling against relentless wind.

Blythe is a surprisingly pleasant port, and marks the point at which you finally escape the urban and commercial development of the coast. It would make a great point to start the route if you were short of time, or wanted to avoid cycling on or near the busier roads and built up areas near Newcastle.

The cycling up until this point had been on a combination of dedicated cycle track, shared pavements, and occasionally short sections of road, but north of Cresswell we encountered our first sections of rougher terrain, with some stretches of gravel and grass, none of which was particularly problematic, as we were on tricross bikes with 32 mm tyres. The entire route is mostly suitable for all types of bike, although road bikes with ‘skinny’ tyres may find it better to avoid some short sections, which is easily done.

With the coastline stretching way into the distance, the clarity of the view was only partially obscured by the spray coming off the relentless waves as they pounded the shore. Eventually the fishing port of Amble came into view, the route taking us

Coast & Castles is a 200 mile stretch of the North Sea Cycle Route which takes the whole east coast of Britain before veering off to the Shetlands and then Norway and through the Low Countries. If you fancy doing the lot have a look at www.northsea-cycle.com. Much of it is staggeringly beautiful, but the Coast & Castles section is surely one of the most majestic.

It is called Coast & Castles after the 100 or so miles of shoreline it follows, threaded through Northumbrian fishing villages, past vast sandy beaches. Now there is an alternative route continuing north along the coast instead of cutting inland via the Scottish Borders. The coastline is dotted with ancient castles such as Warkworth, Bamburgh, Dunstanburgh and Lindisfarne.

At Berwick either continue north along National Route 76 or head left along the Tweed, staying on Route 1. This takes you quite quickly into Sir Walter Scott country – through some of Scotland’s best kept secrets.

The Borders is as beautiful in its way as the Highlands. But less of a tourist trap. This is a land where time seems to stand still. Old communities of Borderers, ruined abbeys, fine pubs and eateries. Well worth the detour…

“The Tweed valley is a delight - nothing too hilly and beautiful scenery”

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COAST AND CASTLES

straight into the harbour area, before leading us up and out of the town on a dedicated track to Warkworth, and our first castle on the route. Dating back to 1234 this is a classic and fairly well preserved ‘motte and bailey’ castle, overlooking the attractive small town.

The route has been hugely improved From Warkworth there is a really great purpose built cycle track directly to Alnmouth, a great way to finish our first day, and a huge improvement on the previous longer route via a labyrinth of country lanes, although it does mean that if that if you are visiting Alnwick (the largest occupied castle in England after Windsor) you have to leave the cycle track. Safely ensconced in our B&B for the night, we enjoyed a great meal and short wander around Alnmouth, just one of many picturesque villages that we would pass through along the coast. We had covered 50 miles, mainly cycling hard against the wind. The forecast for the morning was for slightly less wind, and with that happy thought we turned in for the night.

Huge sandy beaches are laced with lofty cliffs, tiny fishing villages and imposing castles, testament to the strategic importance of this isolated far northern region of England, where fierce border wars raged between the 14th and 16th centuries, and where there was a constant threat of raiders from across the North Sea. In series, we passed the ruined and atmospheric Dunstanburgh Castle, the mighty Bamburgh Castle and Lindisfarne, the latter also one of the most important sites from early Christianity, marking the end of two long distance paths in Northumberland that celebrate the life of St Oswald and St Cuthbert.

The ramparts and fortifications at Berwick on Tweed are well worthwhile visiting, mainly dating back to Elizabethan times, they were extended and improved during the 17th and 18th centuries. In the late afternoon we cycled up the Tweed valley to Horncliffe, crossing between England and Scotland, then back into England via the historic Union Chain Bridge.

Leaving Horncliffe in the early morning, the route initially passed through rolling arable farmland, first to Kelso, with its busy historic town centre, cobbled market square and castle, then onwards through increasingly hilly countryside to Melrose. Melrose is a delightful Borders town, the ruined Abbey famed for being the site of where Robert the Bruce’s heart is buried. We sat outside enjoying lunch in the sunshine while chatting to a group of cyclists who were also following the route.

The Tweed valley is a delight - nothing too hilly and beautiful scenery The ride during the afternoon up through the Tweed valley was a delight, nothing too hilly, beautiful scenery, quiet roads and some added interest as we watched canoeists practicing their slalom techniques from an ancient narrow bridge near Caddonfoot. The route after the bridge continues for a short while heading west upstream, then strikes inland a little on a gravelly track, which was okay for our bikes, but a road bike would be unsuitable for this section – there is an alternative road variant. More gorgeous views followed, and we remained on very quiet roads all the way to Innerleithen.

Our final day started with a wonderful ride steadily up on the B709 through the shapely hills that create such a magnet for mountain bikers and cyclists alike. The air was still, the sun was out, it was a Sunday morning, and the only sounds to be heard were the bleating of sheep and the call of Curlews... and me puffing away as I turned the pedals! A fantastic descent on the north side of the Uplands took us briefly through Dalkeith, then on towards Edinburgh via a series of roads, cycle paths and discussed railway track bed. Passing by the foot of Arthur’s Seat, we plunged into a tunnel, popping out more or less in the centre of Edinburgh.

It had been a fine ride - a little more challenging during the first two windy days than we would have liked, but then that’s half the fun, and there wouldn’t have been so much to write about!

BIKE MAGAZINE 41

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BIKE MAGAZINE 43

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LAKE BAIKAL

LAKE BAIKAL

BIKE MAGAZINE 45

LAKE BAIKAL

For many years we have enjoyed exploring remote regions of the world, mainly by bike. After several adventures exploring high altitude regions, we became interested in a winter bike trip. We quickly fell upon the heart of Siberia: Lake Baikal. It is well-known for outstanding natural beauty and for its surrounding high mountain ranges.

Consequently, the region offering amazing scenery. The lake completely freezes over in winter and the locals use its surface as a winter road. This seemed ideal for a winter cycling adventure. Lake Baikal is a considerable distance from our home in Germany, so we needed five days on the Transsiberian-Baikal-Amur train to reach the starting point of our cycling tour in Severobaikalsk at the northern part of the lake. It was a shock to the system to leave the warmth of the train and enter the minus 25ºC January day and so we took a couple of days to adapt to our new environment. From then on, our daily rhythm was defined by the outside temperature, the day length and the total time period of five weeks we had available to finish our tour to the South tip of the lake.

So, on 31st of January, in wonderful, cold winter weather we cycled to Nishneangarsk to start our trip at the northern point of the lake. However, on the next day, we experienced the diversity of Siberian Winter with dark, portentous cloud and snow flurry. It was hard to see the car tracks heading south to Baikalskoje in these conditions, and cycling on snow was generally very tiring. It became pretty clear that weather, wind, snow and ice conditions were the dominating factors and we would have to adapt our daily schedule to these conditions.

Our first night on the lake was rather unpleasant as we were constantly wakened by the cracking and snapping sounds of the ice beneath us, sounding like thunders or earthquakes moving through the ice below us. Although the lake is frozen with a thick layer of ice, some sections of the ice are in constant movement. Especially during low night temperatures and in full moon period, cracks appear and move. One never knows how far away from the tent new cracks will open.

We quickly learned where to find “quiet” zones on the ice or we simply pitched our tent on the shore of the lake. A good night’s rest was vital for us, as we were active basically from sunrise to sunset

every day. The route we followed took us from Nishneangarsk to Baikalskoje and further south to Kotelnikovskij. From there we crossed the lake to the East coast to then follow the car track south via Davsha and Kurbulik to Ust Bargusin.

Then, we crossed over to Olchon Island and continued South along the West coast to Listvianka. Endpoint of the icebike adventure was in the town of Kultuk.

The Northern section of our tour was the hardest in terms of snow cover, on some days we had to push our bikes for many hours and kilometres through deep snow. Our daily mileage varied from 25 kilometres to 60 kilometres depending on ice and snow conditions.

The coldest nights we experienced in the snowy parts in the North. Snow was too deep for cycling, and for hours we lost any good car track. There was no choice, but to push and drag the bikes through ankle-deep snow. Hour after hour passed and our progress was desperately slow.

Temperatures were at minus 35ºC and due to the arduous physical work of pushing the heavy, fully-loaded bikes, we were soon covered in a layer of snow condensing on our faces and clothing.

In the late afternoon, finally and to our surprise, we reached a car track running south along the east coast. After twenty frustrating kilometres on foot, we now enjoyed another half hour of good riding before we pitched our tent in the last of the sunlight.

Temperatures dropped as the sun disappeared behind the horizon, and at these low temperatures, properties of materials changed drastically. The PVCplastic of the panniers became rock-hard and simple procedures like packing and unpacking stuff took considerably longer than usual. Also rubber bands connecting tent poles lost their elasticity, so that

It was a shock to the system to leave the warmth of the train and enter the minus 25ºC January day and so we took a couple of days to adapt to our new environment. From then on, our daily rhythm was defined by the outside temperature, the day length and the total time period of five weeks we had available to finish our tour to the South tip of the lake

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LAKE BAIKAL

Although the lake is frozen with a thick layer of ice, some sections of the ice are in constant movement. Especially during low night temperatures and in full moon period, cracks appear and move.

One never knows how far away from the tent new cracks will open.

putting up the tent also was more difficult and took longer than anticipated. Once the tent was set up, one of us usually took the ice axe to chop off some fresh-water ice cubes to melt for our daily water supply. Lake Baikal is one of the cleanest sweet water lakes and water is drinkable and of high quality.

A few days later, we were rewarded for the hard work in the snowy sections: south of Ust Bargusin, finally we found the ice conditions we were hoping for and dreaming of. No more snow, but a huge black plain of ice extended all the way to the horizon. Our studded tires were just right and gave us good riding grip. It took some time before we had full confidence in the surface we were riding on. Especially, when looking into the distance, the clear ice surface took on the appearance of still liquid.

Patterns of small waves could be seen, as if the wind moved the surface of a still lake.

However, everything was solid hard, frozen in time. Patches of ice, rich in air, alternated with clear sections of ice. White cracks ran through the solid ice and we found fascinating patterns of air bubbles. In bright midday sun, the surface of the lake became a huge mirror.

Finally, we enjoyed the endless freedom of being able to move in any direction. We were not trying to break any speed records and had to keep in mind that, at cold temperatures, it was not sensible to breathe in too heavily.

When speeding across the ice, only a meter of solid water separated us from the deep darkness of the lake. Lake Baikal is the world deepest lake with up to 1600 meters in depth, and now we were about to cross over precisely at this deepest part. A frightening thought,

that just a meter of ice was enough to give us this freedom of riding and the safety of not breaking into the deep void of the lake. Every now and then, our ride was interrupted by large cracks where ice plates had piled up to a meter high. Amazing forces become apparent when ice is moving and pressing. For us, these cracks were never real obstacles, it was always easily possible to find a gap between stacked ice plates to push the bikes across.

We headed towards Olchon Island and followed the lonely East coast of the Island, then continued south towards Listvianka. The east coast of Olchon Island was particularly impressive. We relaxed on the remote shore, taking in the landscape and the almost flat, sable ice; conditions ideal for cycling. There we no humans for miles but we saw many wolf tracks and heard the animals howl at night.

Moments like these you remember, and make you forget the hours of pain and endurance to get to this point. And make you yearn for more.

During the final weeks we battled with deep snow conditions and strong headwinds. It seemed the lake would not allow us to finish.

However, at midday on March 2nd, we reached Kultuk after 27 days of cycling and covering a distance of 1075 kilometres on the ice of Lake Baikal.

Although being physically strenuous, we enjoyed the beauty of Lake Baikal and the harsh conditions of a Siberian winter. We met very friendly and helpful locals who made our adventure a special and pleasant memory.

BIKE MAGAZINE 47

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48 BIKE MAGAZINE

SCOTLAND

A DEAFENING SKY

BIKE MAGAZINE 49

SCOTLAND

I live in a land of contradictions. Scotland is fiercely independent, but not quite willing to go it alone; it is tiny, but home to a landscape and culture that speak far beyond its borders.

In summer I tramp up and down hills, but in winter I stand with trepidation at the feet of mountains. Although we frequently look south from here as the sun withdraws and the seasons turn, we lose our grip on the land and it looks northwards to the cold, the wind and the silence of winter skies.

Those of us with adventure on our minds have a tendency to look outwards, to wider expanses in emptier corners of the map, but we forget what we might find right here at home. On a very few nights in Scotland a lucky watcher might see one of our fleeting northern visitors, the aurora borealis, and nowhere could be better to do so than the whaleback granite domes of the Cairngorm mountains.

To go in hunt of the Scottish aurora, Ronan and I planned a mountain bike ride with a difference: simply to stay as high as possible, for as long as possible, and not to forget to look up.

Climbing the ski road, we break free from the clinging damp to pure white sunlight and a sky that belongs firmly to the sun for now.

We aren’t alone – other people have climbed out of the mist that laps at the mountain’s feet, and they stand around us, blinking and grinning. If you could put the world through the washing machine and hang it out in the sun, it might have the same clarity and fresh feeling of promise. The buzz of anticipation is infectious as other people set off on their own adventures. On the climb we overtake some fellow travellers: stunted pines that are making a slower march back up these slopes to reinstate the natural tree line, seeking their own space.

Instead of a steep slope to mirror the one we just sweated up, the summit is a gate through which we emerge into the bit no one tells you about in the brochure. Green meadows sit in their own hidden valley beside the clear water of Feith Buidhe as it meanders towards the edge of the plateau, where masses of old snow still lurk beneath shaded crags, dripping into the moss. The local herd of reindeer has retreated up here to escape the late summer heat, only adding to the feeling that we’ve stumbled into the geographical equivalent of a forgotten store-room full of treasures.

The animals are a lovely sight, but they can be nuisances: in snowy conditions they eat anything green poking above the snow, especially the slow-growing pine saplings.

Life here is fragile and precarious. A carelessly locked back wheel can destroy years of growth for the tiny dwarf juniper and birch, just as easily as a hungry reindeer.

Aviemore, now free from the mist, sparkles below us among the reflections from the many lochs and rivers. We turn our backs on the buildings and roads and people, and listen to the voice that says it’s too crowded here: go further, and higher, and find space.

We thread a sandy trail through the meadow, towards emptier places and sweeter air. The greenery and the river are the starting point for a new climb onto the barren and boulder-filled back of Ben MacDui. It isn’t long before we’re standing on the roof of the Cairngorms, at 1,309m above sea level, and nothing remains above us but the burning sun in an azure halo.

Perhaps that isn’t impressive if you scale it against the Alps, Rockies or Andes, but we can see more hills in every direction than either of us can name, and it is good, and we are here.

Our planned camp spot for the night is at a similar altitude, but with the unfortunate problem of being on the other side of the Lairig Ghru. This deep trench contains the infant River Dee, striking through the heart of the hills, and for us means a descent of 600m, followed by an immediate climb out the other side. The descent itself takes some time, bouncing and laughing our way down improbable rocky lines – sometimes the Velcro-like granite beckons, but caution is our friend when help is far away, and pride ends up suffering so that our bones don’t. The local residents are out in force – ptarmigan waddle about among the boulders and wait for winter to return, while the dotterel are beginning to think of packing their bags to flee south from the advancing cold.

Those of us with adventure on our minds have a tendency to look outwards, to wider expanses in emptier corners of the map, but we forget what we might find right here at home.

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SCOTLAND

tonight. The stage remains the same, but someone has set a different backdrop behind it: stars begin to pop out of the gloam, and below us the lights have been lit in Kingussie and Aviemore.

Each step burns with the pain of unfamiliarity, our chatter stutters and fades as our heads drop to the task, and we count the metres, one by one, until at last the skyline of the coire rim becomes just another footfall.

It’s going to hurt, but the need to be back up on the plateau at sunset shouts louder than tired legs and arms. I’ve never actually carried a fully loaded bike on my back before, and quickly realise this is for good reason. Each step burns with the pain of unfamiliarity, our chatter stutters and fades as our heads drop to the task, and we count the metres, one by one, until at last the skyline of the coire rim becomes just another footfall. The sun is slipping away, but we press harder, racing to catch it before the curtain of night is pulled over us. As we reach the blocky summit of Cairn Toul we admit defeat: for the second time that day we simply stand watching the spread of land beneath us as the shadows ooze gently into the glens from the east.

Stove out, kettle on, brew’s up – a tea break seems appropriate, but staying still doesn’t seem to fit this place, and soon we move again, tracking north across the roofspace of the hills towards Braeriach.

It’s a huge mountain – not so much a lone summit as a separate tract of land, elevated and isolated from everything else around it. There are head torches in our packs but that’s where they stay.

The last dregs of the daylight lead us on. We chatter constantly, buoyed up on the adventure and the knowledge that we alone are here to see this place

Low light stops play by half past ten. We accept that we can barely see each other any more, let alone the crags waiting to swallow us. The kettle goes on once more, and the lightweight tent outer goes up to keep off the now icy breeze. Sipping hot chocolate and filling my empty belly, I look upwards and feel myself going a bit Ferris Bueller: you know, the scene with Cameron staring at the painting.

Ronan can’t sleep either; he’s too excited taking photos of the night sky, running around like a child at Christmas. I lie back and search the stars overhead, trying to understand the distances involved and failing. Just as I give up and begin to think of sleep, the aurora flares into life on the northern skyline, breathing green and purple fire over the forests, below and above us all at once. The world freezes as we watch the play of light and colour flow into the sky. No words are spoken – how could they fill this space? The hills shrink into insignificance as we look upwards to the cold and deafening silence of the sky.

Sleep does finally come to our mattress of moss, but I wake early with the chill wind still lapping over my face. In the pre-dawn light the sights of the previous night seem to belong to somewhere entirely different, but they’re hard to shake off as we loosen stiff limbs and pack up, eager to move again. Above us now is just the pale, watercolour blue of another day, stained with the first rays of sunlight. Below us there is nothing but white fog – the glens have been submerged and we float on our mountain island above the cloud inversion.

Following the faint path along the ridge, we watch the sun catch us up once more and set fire to the scene. Another summit, another moment to stop, watch, listen and be very, very glad that we are here.

No man is an island, though, and it’s nearly time for us to rejoin the rest of the world. Soon winter will take back the high places, and we will content ourselves with riding in the valley until next year (well, mostly…). We take one last look at the silent space and empty sky behind us, take a breath, and plunge head-first away from the light into the darkness, down into the fog.

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SHOWCASE

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