Magic Magazine August/September 2017

billings’ most read magazine

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TREASURES

auGust/sEPtEmBEr 2017

WarrIOr traIls

mOntana’s IndIan BattlEFIElds

ZOOGardEns

WIth WIld aBandOn

starGaZInG undEr thE BIG sky

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2 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

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4 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

CONTENTS 67 BEYOND POMPEYS PILLAR

LEAVE THE BEATEN PATH AND FOLLOW LEWIS AND CLARK

BY ROB ROGERS

70

75

83

90

BEST OF THE BAIR

THE CHARLES M. BAIR FAMILY MUSEUM

WARRIOR TRAILS

MONTANA’S INDIAN BATTLEFIELDS

EDY’S GRAND ICE CREAM

TROVES OF TIME-HONORED TREASURES

BY JACI WEBB

BY JEFF WELSCH

BY TIFFINI GALLANT

SWEET TREATS WITH MAGIC CITY HISTORY

A DAY’S DRIVE AWAY

BY BRIE RIPLEY

ON THE COVER A BABY GREAT HORNED OWL ON THE RIMROCKS BY BRONTË WITTPENN/GAZETTE STAFF

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 5

16 IN EVERY ISSUE 08

From the Staff

09

Contributors

99

Seen at the Scene

101

Datebook

106

But Not Least

DIY Mosaic Birdbath

RIVER TO RIMS 10 Person Of Interest

SIGNATURE SECTION

56

FINE LIVING

22 Great Estates

Building on a Dream

32 Gardens

With Wild Abandon Seva The Flava

40 Libations

Billings Petroleum Club

WESTERN LIFE MT LEGENDS

15 Media Room

44 Howard Eaton’s Natural Hospitality

16 Giving Back

47 The Long Shadow of Willard Fraser

18 Artist Loft

52 Photo Journal

20 Elements

56 Never Again In Our Town

David R. North

Books, Movies, Music & Web Reviews Angel Horses Cal Treiber

Big Sky Treasure Chest

22

35 Epicure

MT LEGENDS

Adventures on the Rims

TRAVELOGUE

58 Stargazing Under The Big Sky

6 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

40

52 32

AUG/SEPT 2017

VOLUME 15

ISSUE 3

Michael Gulledge | Publisher 657-1225 EDITORIAL Tara Cady | Senior Editor 657-1390 Marlisa Keyes | Assistant Editor 657-1490 Tiffini Gallant | Assistant Editor 657-1474 Evelyn Noennig | Community Liaison / Assistant Editor 657-1226

Relax.

Rejuvenate.

Repeat.

PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEOGRAPHY Larry Mayer, Casey Page, Hannah Potes, Brontë Wittpenn and Rebecca Noble DESIGN April Burford

COVER DESIGN Nadine Bittner

ADVERTISING Dave Worstell | General Manager 657-1352 Ryan Brosseau | Advertising Director 657-1340 Spencyr Knatterud | Advertising Coordinator 657-1254 Mo Lucas | Production/Coordinator 657-1204 EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Stella Daskalakis Thurkhil, Andrew Marble, Eileen McDonald, Jane McCracken, Dr. Alan Muskett, Sharon Nolte, Karen Sanford-Gall, Zack Terakedis, Gillette Vaira, Kim Welzenbach, Gavin Woltjer CONTACT US: Mail: 401 N. Broadway Billings, MT 59101 editor@magiccitymagazine.com FIND US ONLINE AT www.magiccitymagazine.com FIND US AT VARIOUS RACK LOCATIONS THROUGHOUT BILLINGS: Billings area Albertsons | Billings Airport | Billings Clinic Billings Gazette Communications | Billings Hardware Curves for Women | Evergreen IGA | Gainan’s Good Earth Market | Granite Fitness | Lucky’s Market McDonald’s | Pita Pit | Reese and Ray’s IGA (Laurel) Shipton’s | Stella’s Kitchen & Bakery St. Vincent Healthcare | Billings Family YMCA Valley Federal Credit Union (Downtown location) Western Ranch Supply | Western Security Bank (Downtown location) | Yellowstone County Museum Plus many other locations Magic City Magazine is published five times a year by Billings Gazette Communications. Copyright© 2017 Magic City Magazine. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without express written consent is prohibited.

WHY MAGIC CITY? In the early 1880s, immigrants and adventurers came in droves to seek their livelihood on the verdant land along the Yellowstone River. The hastily constructed tents and log cabins made it appear as if Billings materialized overnight – thus earning the name “The Magic City.” Today, as the largest city in Montana, Billings proudly retains its ‘Magic City’ moniker. As for Magic City magazine, we promise to continue our mission to uncover all that is unique and wonderful and changing in this great community … and we guarantee a few surprises along the way.

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FROM THE STAFF

TREASURES ABOUND

M

ontana is called the Treasure State for a reason. But, it has nothing to do with money.

While we love our valuable gemstone varieties, what we treasure more is invaluable: crystal clear waters and night skies, mountain peaks that pique our interest, and vast land our ancestors and native neighbors crossed to establish what we know as “Big Sky Country.”

In this issue of Magic City Magazine, we write about the reasons Montanans continue to preserve and take pride in the Last Best Place.

Part of our state’s appeal is its historical significance and applications to today. We can drive 30 minutes from Billings and see William Clark’s signature from his and Meriwether Lewis’ expedition, or observe the Rimrocks, where the Nez Perce staked positions – and eventually escaped – during the Battle of Canyon Creek.

In our backyard are our beginnings, many of which we’ve honored through national and state monument and park designations. Explore those troves of treasures on Page 90. And on Page 67, walk in Lewis and Clark’s shoes along our state’s segment of their historic trail. The exploration doesn’t have to stop there—directions to nearby Native American battlefield sites are on Page 75.

What connects us to centuries past is

8 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

the landscape that has remained relatively untouched. We have all looked at the same Big Sky, where constellations can be seen with more clarity than in urban states. Montana is definitely something to celebrate – and what better way than to attend a star party (Page 58) or visit the ZooGardens (Page 32).

There are plenty of people to thank for protecting our history and continuing to make waves.

While we can’t fit them all in this issue, we try with profiles on David R. North (Page 10), Jonnie Jonckowski (Page 16), Howard Eaton (Page 44), the Bair family (Page 70), and Joseph Edy (Page 83).

If you’re still not convinced we’re on the fast track to state superiority, find comfort in the words of former Billings mayors Willard Fraser (Page 47) and Chuck Tooley (Page 56).

executive assistant to the publisher and Billings native, continues to enjoy all that her hometown has to offer. She considers the opportunity to always run into someone she knows at the grocery store, downtown on the street or at one of the many wonderful events held throughout town, one of the small blessings of living in the Magic City.

TARA CADY

grew up in the northwest suburbs of Chicago but has since fallen in love with the mountainous West. After finishing a degree in psychology in Colorado, her love of travel and meeting unique people inspired her to pursue a more creative path in a city that celebrates art and music. With Billings as her muse, she hopes to unlock hidden talents.

TIFFINI GALLANT is an easterner who transplanted west a decade ago to make it a little wilder. A bit of an old soul, she’s nostalgic for the 1920s, listens to The Beatles and loves the smell of antique books. With an insatiable thirst for knowledge (and intolerance for boredom), you’ll regularly find her juggling many hats. Call her crazy – she’s heard it before.

MARLISA KEYES is a dabbler in hooking rugs, cooking paella and growing roses, hydrangeas and playing in the dirt. She is still trying to decide what to do when she grows up: Teach U.S. history? Pull weeds?

In the meantime she loves hiking in the Selkirk Mountains of Idaho and camping in Glacier Park with daughter, Olivia, and son, Austin, as well as bookstore dates with her husband, David, of 25 years.

CONTRIBUTORS

JOHN CLAYTON’S

books include The Cowboy Girl: The Life of Caroline Lockhart, and, most recently, Stories from Montana’s Enduring Frontier. This article is based on research for his new book, Wonderlandscape: Yellowstone National Park and the Evolution of an American Icon, which will be published by Pegasus Books in August. You can learn more at johnclaytonbooks.com.

DARRELL EHRLICK

loves reading, writing, baseball, bourbon, cooking, Montana history, more books, bacon, old albums, cigars, cats (especially crossed-eye Siamese and black cats), his patient wife and his two children who are his real day job. He tends to have an opinion on everything, often being wrong but rarely in doubt. He works as the editor of The Billings Gazette and was born and raised in Billings. He’s written other things, few probably worth mentioning here.

SUSAN OLP

has worked as a reporter at The Billings Gazette for nearly 27 years, covering everything from county government to education, religion, the medical beat, and the Crow and Northern Cheyenne tribes. The best part has been all the interesting people she’s met along the way. In her spare time, she’s likely to be found reading a fantasy book.

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JEFF WELSCH returned to journalism two years ago after a six-year hiatus only to discover this Internet thing had turned everything upside-down. In his role as Lee Montana executive sports director his work revolves around a new statewide website: 406mtsports.com. He is co-author of five books, including Backroads & Byways of Montana, Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks and Jackson Hole, and Oregon Wine Country: A Great Destination.

JACI WEBB

fell in love with words and stories starting in second grade when her teacher banned her from recess one week, leaving her surrounded by books. Jaci has spent 30 years interviewing rock musicians, visual artists and actors for The Billings Gazette to give voice to their magic.

BRIE RIPLEY writes and makes radio. After working as an independent producer in Seattle, she moved to Billings on a whim and fell under the city’s spell. She enjoys the way shifting into fifth gear in platform heels feels driving across Montana highways.

ROB ROGERS maintains a large collection of plush carpet sample books on his desk at home. Currently, he’s the health reporter for The Billings Gazette and has lived in the Magic City for eight years. He’s married to the love of his life and is the father of three delightfully crazy girls. He’s an avid U2 fan, which sometimes grows a little tiresome to those around him. He spends much of his summers in the Beartooths, backpacking with his daughters and hiking with his wife.

BRONTË WITTPENN

Although born on the east coast, has lived in Montana most her life. Her desire to become a photojournalist ignited when she lived in Spain and traveled independently through Europe and North Africa.

She also makes a mean Indian curry and enjoys talking to strangers.

CHUCK TOOLEY has the distinction of being the longest serving mayor of Billings. He has worked as an actor, served in Vietnam and been a member of the Montana Arts Council. His awards include the Jeannette Rankin Peace Award from the Institute for Peace Studies and the Community Heroes Inspirational Award from the American Red Cross.

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PERSON OF INTEREST

DAVID R. NORTH BORN WITH ‘GAS IN THE BLOOD’

BY MARLISA KEYES I PHOTOS BY LARRY MAYER‌

D‌

avid R. North looked up at the parting message his former General Motors co-workers had welded under the frame of the 1991 Reatta convertible for Pat North, David’s wife.

“We had to put up with him for 33 years, now you’re stuck full-time with him. At least you have a nice ride.”

Next to the gear shift, the GM crew attached a plaque that says “Crafted for P.N.N.” The car was one of many North designed for GM after the

10 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

company hired him in 1959 from Art Center School in Pasadena, California, now the ArtCenter College of Design in Los Angeles. North’s credits include the Pontiac GTO, Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Toronado, Cadillac Eldorado and Buick Riviera.

Billings, the early years‌

Standing in front of framed photographs in his home, North began his story with a bit of family history. He pointed to a 1917 photograph of his grandfather, Austin North,

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North is included in “The World’s Great Automobile Stylists,” a book about the world’s best car designers.

David R. North in the basement of his Billingsarea home filled with memorabilia from his days as a car designer with General Motors.

sitting in an automobile with friend, and sometimes business partner and rival, P.B. Moss, near Moss Mansion.

The men’s friendly competition included trying to outdo one another by building bigger and more spectacular homes. Austin North, who during 1902 and 1903, built The Castle at 622 N. 29th St., was outdone by Moss with the far larger and grander Moss Mansion at 914 Division St., his grandson said.

North, 81, grew up content as the only son of three children born to John and Fae (Eagen) North, knowing he would work for and one day take charge of his venture capitalist father’s business, North Investment Co. A shared interest in automobiles with his grandfather, who also had “gas in the blood,” and a chance meeting as a teenager with GM Chairman Harlow Curtice, would take him a different direction, though.

Before automobile dealerships, cars were

ordered from the back pages of the Sears, Roebuck and Co. Catalogue. Austin North got the idea to solicit the vehicles to area residents, take an order and ship the vehicle to Billings via the Northern Pacific Railroad to the Montana Avenue depot.

Except Austin North liked the cars; when one arrived he’d have it covered and transported to his home, the Stone House, where it was parked.

At one time 47 vehicles were in the garage. The limestone structure was located on the corner of what is now Ninth Avenue between North 16th and 18th streets.

Later, when asked by the owner where the promised car was, Austin reordered a new one.

“He loved them and kept them to himself,” North said.

In 1931, the Stone House was sold to the government and the vehicles disappeared. The family suspects they were stolen by people who knew they were in the garage, he said.

A car designer in the making

Teachers told David North’s mother they didn’t know what to do with a dreamer who liked to draw. He had no outlet for his talents since art wasn’t taught in Billings schools at the time. In high school, educators made comparisons to his older sister, Joan, a straight A student.

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MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 11

Above: “The Red Flame,” a drawing by North, later became the Toronado. The drawing, damaged during a lunch-hour football game, disappeared for 20 years before being found during a remodeling project at GM.

HAVING ART TALENT WAS A NEGATIVE IN BILLINGS SCHOOLS. YOU WERE A MISFIT GOING THROUGH THE SCHOOLS.

Right: A watercolor from his school days shows North’s fascination with vehicles.

“Having art talent was a negative in Billings schools,” he said. “You were a misfit going through the schools.”

Pointing to one of his only early works to survive a Michigan house fire, he said art had its advantages for a skinny teenager with two athletic male cousins. North’s drawing skills attracted girls.

His work also caught the eye of Curtice, who’d stopped in Billings to pick up a new Cadillac for a Yellowstone National Park vacation in June 1953 and spotted the youth’s sketches displayed on the dealership owner’s office wall. He wanted to meet North.

Surprised by North’s age, the GM head said people with the 16-year-old’s skills were “paid big bucks” in Detroit. He asked permission to take the drawings to share with design staff, saying North had potential at GM. Until then, North didn’t know artists had a hand in designing cars, assuming engineers were behind the designs.

Later that summer, the GM Styling department sent a package that included North’s sketches covered with overlays and hand-written suggestions for improvements, drawings of the company’s 1959 Cadillac and a letter to his parents recommending he attend one of the country’s top art schools in Pasadena, California after high school.

John North was concerned about his son’s change of plans to pursue art, although North said his father was supportive and proud of his decision.

“He’s thinking I’m an immature teenager and I’m going to make a mistake here,” North said.

Father and son agreed that in the future, David would return to Billings to take over the family business.

“He was by far my biggest backer and fan,” he said.

After graduation in 1955, North, who went to Billings Senior High School, married Pat Craighill, whom he met the year before while “burning the point” in Billings. A Central Catholic High School student, she drove a customized car with breather pipes so the family dog could safely ride in the

12 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

trunk. After marrying, they packed up his hotrod Oldsmobile and drove West.

North’s academic and self-taught artistic skills left him behind his college classmates. When he arrived at ArtCenter School, he was called into the office regarding his shortcomings.

“That was kind of demoralizing,” North said. The rest of the conversation was positive, but confusing when he was told: “‘Luckily, you’ve got talent.’”

That discussion resulted in a lot of catching up for North.

Majoring in transportation design, each weekday he took a different six-hour art class followed by six more hours of homework. Art school required Saturday class enrollment through UCLA to improve his academics, and Pat helped

seven days a week, by then having a family to support.

“Everything that was a negative…now was a positive,” North said.

Later, while working at GM, his parents’ faith in him was confirmed.

A conversation between his mother and an executive, unlike earlier ones she’d had with his school teachers, took a different tone. The guy pulled her aside and said: “David’s a genius, we’re fortunate to have him.”

The Golden Age at GM‌

type his papers.

The school’s expectations were rigorous, with faculty dismissing at semester those who didn’t meet standards, keep up or like fellow student, Ralph Lauren, couldn’t afford to pay.

North’s competitors were students with far more art training, including some who’d already graduated from Notre Dame and Harvard before enrolling at Art Center School. Futurist Syd Mead and Learjet designer Bill Moore were classmates.

“It was good training because that’s pretty much how it was on the outside,” North said. As a GM designer, if deadlines weren’t met it meant co-workers sat idle.

He was at times tempted to quit, but seeing other students struggling and dropping out motivated North to keep going.

He graduated in 3½ years by attending school year-round,

North, like other new designers, started in the Orientation Studio. It was the Golden Age in Michigan, with Motown, movie stars and the Big Three automakers – Ford, General Motors and Chrysler – changing the culture of the nation.

Early on in his career while his bosses attended the Paris Auto Show, North sketched a small car at the behest of engineer John DeLorean that would raise his stock in the company.

Inspiration for the sketch hit him while hearing Ford employees talk about the company’s plans for a new muscle car during one of the weekend rotating parties hosted by auto-related industries in Detroit’s 1930s mansions. The Mustang, they said, was backed by company president Lee Iacocca.

When DeLorean picked up the sketch showing the GTO winning a race against the Ford, he asked North to sign it, saying: “Do one more thing and sign your name real big. One of us is getting fired and it’s not going to be me.”

Free-thinking DeLorean wasn’t on the good side of Bill Mitchell, a designer and North’s boss. He covered the drawing, but was stopped outside the studio by security, telling them he had a sketch by North.

“DeLorean just bootlegged that car through the system,” North said.

DeLorean’s maneuver didn’t escape Mitchell’s notice and he ordered North to his office. Mitchell sat with his head in his hands, either from jet lag or a hangover. “‘Who the hell are you?’” Mitchell said. “‘What has that sonofabitch DeLorean got you doing?’”

Corporate didn’t know about the GTO until photographs of it appeared in a magazine. In the meantime, the car was marketed to a generation of rebels who opposed the Vietnam War, burning draft cards and defecting to Canada. They targeted the division between the young men and their fathers’ generation who had willingly fought in World War II. Mitchell told North you can get away with breaking rules as long as money is being made. Marketing the GTO to the young rebels of the Vietnam War generation had paid off.

DeLorean and engineers Russ Gee and Bill Collins are credited with the GTO’s engineering design, with North contributing to its body design, Christo Datini, GM’s head archivist, wrote in an email.

Another of North’s early designs – a drawing dubbed “The Red Flame” that he made in his early 20s using a scarlet air brush against a black background – became the Toronado.

The 4,311-pound front-wheel drive vehicle would win the Pikes Peak Hill Climb and be named the 1966 Motor Trend Car of the Year.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 13

A CAR IS NOT A DEVICE, IT’S ALMOST A LIVING THING. IT’S AN EMOTIONAL ATTACHMENT.

The Toronado is a favorite among car lovers, including comic and car collector Jay Leno. In 2006, Leno, who had met North’s son in California, called the car designer.

The late night TV host, his crew and some GM production engineers had put their own spin on the Toronado, transforming it into a rear-wheel drive vehicle.

Leno wanted to know if the car designer was upset that he’d monkeyed with the vehicle’s design, which North wasn’t.

Billings bound‌

In 1991, after financially-troubled GM offered early retirement to qualifying employees, North, GM’s chief designer, decided it was time to honor his promise to his father.

North’s mother had died and his dad worried about North designed automobiles for GM for 33 years before retiring in 1991. who would take over his a group of bankers invested in rebuilding Montana Avenue, business. and North was involved with a group that convinced MonIt was time to return home.

He signed a contract agreeing not to work for another car tana Rail Link owner Dennis Washington to turn the Billings company or create drawings and continued to consult for Depot over to the city.

The Norths, married for 62 years, have three children, GM until it declared bankruptcy in 2009.

North became a member of the Billings Clinic board of nine grandchildren and two great-grandchildren.

While North no longer draws, he maintains his connecdirectors, a position he held from 1998 to 2007. It took some encouragement from his father for the active North to agree tion to automobiles. He appears at car shows, like the GM Nationals, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Toronado as he was reluctant to sit in meetings. in 2016, signing autographs and sharing the history of GM. John North told his son it was payback time.

Gas still runs through his blood.

“Dad said ‘You’re going to do this. You owe them.’”

“A car is not a device, it’s almost a living thing,” North said.

North has held positions with the Billings Public Library board and a variety of city of Billings committees. He and “It’s an emotional attachment.”

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14 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

MEDIA ROOM

BY MARLISA KEYES BOOK

THE IMMORTAL IRISHMAN: THE IRISH REVOLUTIONARY WHO BECAME AN AMERICAN HERO

MUSIC

HERE’S TO FATE Homegrown alternative rock band Alder Lights’ debut album, “Here’s to Fate,” blends vocals, guitar and drums in original songs on love, fate and life transitions.

The band formed in 2013, mixing rock, pop, blues and electronic elements that tempt audiences to get up and dance. After sellout performances in Billings, Alder Lights took to the road, playing in Montana and Wyoming.

Available at Smiling Dog Records

DVD

MAKOSHIKA

The Irish-born son of a wealthy merchant, Thomas Francis Meagher is arrested and convicted of sedition after opposing the union between Ireland and Great Britain.

Death sentence commuted and exiled to Tasmania, Australia, he escapes to the United States, writes Pulitzer Prize-winning author Timothy Egan.

After landing in New York, Meagher studies law and journalism. He becomes embroiled in the Civil War, forming the Irish Brigade after the First Battle of Bull Run. Later appointed secretary and then acting governor of the Territory of Montana, Meagher fails at bringing Republicans and Democrats together. He dies in 1867 after mysteriously drowning in the Missouri River while on a trip to pick up guns from General Sherman for the Montana militia.

Meagher’s death left many unanswered questions as his body was never found. Did the ill or intoxicated Irishman fall overboard, or was he pushed?

Available at thishouseofbooks.com

Examining the challenges of living in what the Lakota call “Maka Sicha” or “bad land,” stretching from Eastern Montana to western North Dakota, the film pulls viewers in with its story of boom and busts, beginning with the 2014 economic upswing related to oil production in the Bakken shale deposits.

Director and photographer Jessica Jane Hart, who grew up in Billings, and producers Stan Parker and Montana native Pete Tolton examine the region’s cultural transitions that turned small communities into boom towns.

Makoshika looks at the balance between environment and economic development, and as winter sets in and oil prices drop, hints at a possible bust.

Available at makoshikadoc.com

WEB ED

MONTANA FISHING A personal guide to Montana’s fishing holes, this comprehensive app includes information needed for angling in the state’s waters. Find a base map, access sites, shuttle services, regulations, U.S. Geological Survey streamflows and water temperatures.

Developed by Kate Gibson and Scott Bischke of MountainWorks Software, Montana Fishing allows a mobile device’s GPS to search for put-in and take-out locations and points users to the nearest bait shops and potty stops.

Available at iTunes and Google Play

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 15

GIVING BACK

ANGEL HORSES

HEROES ON THE RANGE

BY TARA CADY

H KIDS LEARN THINGS ABOUT THEIR PARENTS THAT THEY DIDN’T KNOW. A QUARTER OF THEM, THEIR LONG-TERM MEMORY COMES BACK.

elping others has a higher purpose for Jonnie Jonckowski.

Like the work of a missionary, Jonckowski’s Angel Horses resembles religion, and the property, her church.

Huckleberry coffee in hand, Jonckowski delved into the details behind Angel Horses, the nonprofit organization she’s run from her home since 1998.

“It’s my little parish,” she said of the two stables and chapel, inspired by 1963 film, “Lilies of the Field.” “And I’m like the nun.”

A stimulating sanctuary‌

Jonckowski shares her property with the community, providing sanctuary for seniors and others with special needs who benefit from spending time with animals.

Five horses, two donkeys and a pony live with the former bull-riding champion at the Billings ranch on 348 S. 48th St. W. Guest activities could be as simple as look- Jonnie Jonckowski walks Blossom the donkey down the driveway. The 63-yearing at animals from afar, or reaching out to pet old Angel Horses founder admits she’s been told, “Jonnie, you have amazing and feed them. Those who are able are invited stick-to-it-iveness.” BRONTË WITTPENN, GAZETTE STAFF‌ to ride.

Eeyore the donkey delights guests with a basket on his Powerful impressions‌ head.

Angel Horses is within 20 minutes of most assisted-liv“He’s festive,” Jonckowski said. “They call him, ‘Little Shit.’” ing centers. Jonckowski says 80 percent of guests are senior Most furry residents are rescue animals. Jonckowski often citizens. receives requests to take in more animals than she has room The nonprofit is volunteer-run and no one is clinicalfor. She refers animals to other safe havens in those instances ly-trained. Facilities like Eagle Cliff Manor bring their staff to to avoid euthanization. assist clients during visits.

An 88-year-old woman in hospice had a similar fear for An Alzheimer’s group recently started visiting. Family her horse, Blossom. Blossom’s owner passed away two hours members accompany patients, and Jonckowski says there’s a after the nonprofit took the horse in. visible change after the experience.

Jonckowski likens animals to seniors; both misunder“Kids learn things about their parents that they didn’t stood and wanting stimulation. know,” she said of the children of the memory-impaired “People are usually in an environment where they’re pro- visitors. “A quarter of them, their long-term memory tected, but they just need stimulus,” she said. comes back.”

16 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Dave Caserio brings cancer patients from his Billings Clinic writing workshops to Angel Horses on occasion.

“He had ‘em write for 20 minutes about what was on their mind,” Jonckowski said.

Caserio had the group write again after engaging with the animals.

“And you can see it – the aura on them,” she said of the environment’s positive impact.

“We’ve had miracle after miracle after miracle out here.”

Helping hands‌

Appointments are limited to about an hour, and as many as 200 requests are turned down each month.

“We don’t charge anybody for anything,” Jonckowski said.

It’s that mentality that pushed her to transform Angel Horses into a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization in 2009, opening up more opportunity for donations.

Jonckowski contributes 2,093 volunteer hours and 9,000 volunteer miles annually. She gives the animals all of their shots, worming and trimming.

“I am pretty much the maintenance man, the feeder, the groomer, the scooper,” she said.

Alpine Veterinary Service, Inc. donates almost half of the necessary animal care materials.

Donations and volunteers come in all forms, from Girl Scouts to people like Norrine (Linderman) the Outlaw Queen, a Western singer in her late 80s who entertains guests in the chapel.

“Some of ‘em got out of their wheelchairs and started dancing,” Jonckowski said of Linderman’s appeal to guests. “Almost all of our volunteers are criers. It’s all the little guys that will give everything.”

A stable roof was donated by Western Security Bank’s Hands of Hope corporate giving campaign, and Angel Horses was recently gifted a pickup truck and four-wheeler to replace using a wheel barrow.

Angel Horses’ annual fundraiser is a barn dance and auction of painted horses – this year the theme is colts – at White Aspen Ranch.

Kevin Red Star, James Poulson, Tracy Linder, Loren Entz and Terri Porta have lent their artistic talents to paint the colts for this year’s auction.

“It’s a classy event. It’s a love fest,” said Jonckowski. “Kevin Red Star is always our flagship.”

The colts can be previewed in August prior to the Sept. 23 event at MontanaFair.

Angel Horses gives back in three ways; the nonprofit rescues and re-homes animals in need and provides an environment for seniors and others with special needs to interact with the horses and donkeys. COURTESY PHOTO‌

BARN DANCE AND AUCTION DETAILS When: Saturday, Sept. 23 at 5:30 p.m.

Where: White Aspen Ranch at 481 56th St. W. Tickets: Log on to angelhorsesmt.org or call (406) 690-9103

Capping the climax‌

Angel Horses is relocating to 403 S. 56th St. W., a 10-acre piece of nearby property with a heated indoor arena and 12-stall horse barn.

More space means increased services and availability, and decreased weather disruptions.

The elements have not only deterred guests but volunteers in the recent past.

“When snot freezes on your nose, volunteers are scarce,” she said.

Jonckowski envisions a mock Western town, a “destination place” where kids can have birthday parties and companies host corporate gatherings. She wants another chapel, a general store, saloon and livery stable. Dog agility courses are not out of the question.

A GoFundMe page has garnered a lot of support for the expansion.

Montana photographer Barbara Van Cleve donated to the cause and wrote, “This is such important, wonderful work that Jonnie is doing for everyone, young and old. Plus the rescued horses and donkeys are pretty happy, too. I hope to give more as time goes on.”

There’s no end in sight for Jonckowski’s aspirations to give back.

“This community is my family,” she said.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 17

ARTIST LOFT

Afterserving24yearsin federalpenitentiaries,Cal Treibersayshe’sfound hispurpose.“(Painting is)whatIwasputonthis planet to do,”he said.

FROM PRISONER TO PAINTER THE STORY OF CAL TREIBER

BY TIFFINI GALLANT I PHOTOS BY REBECCA NOBLE

C painter.

alvin “Cal” Treiber says he wants his story told.

But not with a bunch of “cornball stuff ” he finds hokey and insincere.

During 24 years in the federal prison system, his time was used to develop a skill that had gone undiscovered before his indictment at age 32 – Cal Treiber is an oil

This close-up of “Ganja Girl #1” shows how Treiber plays In 1992, the federal government was still waging its “War on with light and color in his paintings.

An unexpected mentor

Drugs,” which began during the Nixon administration. The Continuing Criminal Enterprise statute (commonly referred to as the kingpin statute) targeted large-scale drug traffickers engaging in long-term and complicated drug conspiracies.

Treiber was indicted for violating the statute. After taking his case to trial, a jury found him guilty of 16 counts of various drug-related crimes and sentenced him to 30 years in federal prison.

“I never had a record – never did a day in jail in my entire life,”

18 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Treiber said of the years leading up to his indictment.

But with three decades of incarceration, Treiber had to do something with his time. So, he started drawing. He found out quickly he was pretty good at it.

After the trial, Treiber was transferred from the Yellowstone County Jail in Billings to the United States Penitentiary in Florence, Colorado. It wasn’t long before he met an elderly inmate who painted with oil.

“This old man told me, ‘If you can draw that well, you should

access to the room, Treiber was discouraged.

“I never got to paint once in six months there,” he said.

So he welcomed the opportunity to transfer to the Federal Correctional Institution in Fort Dix, New Jersey, where he’d spend the last five years of his sentence.

But once again, the inmates who were there longer had access to yet another small art space. Not giving up, Treiber painted from a mop closet and continued to send works home. Before long, word of his talent spread again, and he was back to selling work and teaching other inmates the art of oil.

The hustle‌ “There really ain’t nothing I can’t paint,” Prison inmates are allowed to paint recreationally and for their families, but trading or Treiber said. “I am just so engrossed in my painting that my time just flew by – if you can selling work is forbidden.

Treiber started sending art to his four chil- imagine 24 years flying by.” dren. It was important that he maintained a relationship with them through painting.

Lesson learned‌ “That’s all I could do for my kids,” he said.

After two dozen years served, Treiber was “Their houses are like galleries.” released from Fort Dix and boarded an airWord quickly spread through the peniten- plane destined for Billings. tiary, and Treiber received requests for paint“I knew right when I got out that (paintings from other inmates and even prison staff. ing) was what I was gonna do,” he said.

He painted and traded works of all kinds, On October 1, 2016, Treiber returned to many were commissioned family portraits. his family home and quickly got to work. He “I was painting paintings for the warden,” transformed the basement into a frame shop, he said. studio, gallery and living quarters.

Soon, he had an enterprise, often receivWith the help of family, he started featuring $300 for his work and selling some for as ing work in Billings ArtWalk events and submuch as $1,000. mitted a favorite painting of two raccoons, “That was what they call ‘prison rich,’” said titled “Heckel and Jeckel,” to Yellowstone Art Treiber. “Everybody in there’s got a little hustle.” Museum’s Art Auction 49. To his surprise, the Painting kept him busy and mostly out of painting was accepted and sold. harm’s way. While fights, riots and gang activTreiber wants to continue honing his craft. ity were common in the facility, Treiber spent There are basics he learned from teaching his time in the art classroom. himself and from his mentor, like composi“I did hundreds and hundreds and hun- tion, but he says it’s taken 20 years to develop dreds of paintings in Florence,” he said. his own style.

He got to know a diverse range of people “That’s the beautiful thing about art – who requested his work and was soon pur- you’re just constantly evolving,” he said. chasing equipment, instructional videos, Growing up on the Yellowstone River paint and canvas to teach fellow inmates his hunting and fishing, much of Treiber’s artcraft. work has been painted from memories of those trips. He prefers capturing wild animals and landscapes with wildlife in bright colors.

Overcoming obstacles‌ Due to good behavior, Treiber came up for One painting of a bucking horse was created using only four different colors of oil. a transfer to a lower-security facility. “(Painting is) what I was put on this planet He didn’t want to leave at first.

Petitioning the warden allowed him to stay to do,” he said. “When people see my paintfor a while longer, but rising violence meant ings, I just want them to say, ‘Wow.’” Treiber says most of his business comes more time confined to his cell and out of the through word of mouth. Commissioned work art room.

Finally, he agreed to a transfer to the Fed- takes up a majority of his time when he’s not eral Correctional Institution in Sandstone, teaching an oil painting class at Hobby Lobby.

“Painting saved my life in prison,” said Minnesota. After seeing how small the art space was and the hierarchy that granted in- Treiber. “If I didn’t have painting, I might have mates who’d spent more time at the location gone crazy as a country boy in a cage could.” start painting,” said Treiber.

He bought some used acrylic paints from an inmate getting transferred – inmates aren’t usually allowed to bring belongings between facilities – and he painted in acrylic for one year.

Once again, the old man suggested he try something new and began mentoring Treiber in the art of oil painting.

“I starting doing that, and it was beautiful,” he said. “(Oil paints) are just more rich and luxurious.”

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MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 19

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ONLY THE ESSENTIALS

With scents like “So Spicy,” “Angel Fire” and “Kids Calm,” these multi-purpose mixtures are easy to use with rollerball applicators. Essential oils combine with flowers and herbs, like pink peppercorns, cardamom pods and roses, to give your sniffer a summer treat.

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406-259-3624 MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 21

GREAT ESTATES

Building

dream ON A

22 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Josephine Crossing includes porches in the front and garages behind the homes to facilitate interaction between neighbors.

HANNAH POTES, GAZETTE STAFF

Greg and Brad McCall, owners of McCall Homes, set out a decade ago to build a different kind of subdivision. CASEY PAGE, GAZETTE STAFF

T

BY SUSAN OLP

en years and nearly 500 homes later, Greg and Brad McCall are pleased with the housing development they named after a significant piece of Billings history.

“Josephine Crossing is a riverboat that paddled its way on the Yellowstone River in the 1870s to Coulson,” Greg McCall said. “Had that river boat not been able to make it this far, Coulson, and then ultimately Billings, never would have been founded here.”

The past is linked to more than the name of the southwest Billings subdivision that borders Mullowney Lane. The builders’ philosophy harkens to a time when neighbors stepped out on their porches for chats and children played together in nearby neighborhood parks.

Josephine Crossing focuses “on human beings first, not their automobiles,” Greg said.

It’s based on the idea that in the right environment, people can more easily connect than in traditional housing developments.

The subdivision is complete with 369 single-family dwellings, 86 townhomes and 43 cottages. And the McCalls are beginning work on Annafeld, their new development west of Josephine Crossing on Elysian Road.

At a crossroads, the two brothers reflected on how their first Billings subdivision came to be and how they plan to build on what they’ve begun.

24 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

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MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 25

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26 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE DESIGN-BUILD • 2017 KITCHEN REMODELS

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COMPLETE HOME

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CUSTOM INTERIOR & EXTERIORS

Front porches on all of the homes in Josephine Crossing encourage neighbors to get to know each other. PHOTOS COURTESY OF MCCALL HOMES‌ How homes changed‌

In the 1950s, when people emigrated from cities to suburbs filled with cookie-cutter homes, part of what drove the evolution was increased mobility. In the post-war era, more families could afford cars, and homes away from busy cities were all the rage.

Over time, neighborhoods became stratified, Brad added. They were segregated into “subdivisions that were either first-time, first move-up or the house you always really wanted.”

“And those could not co-mingle,” he said.

“That was the conventional wisdom.”

Until Josephine Crossing, the McCalls went the same route as other developers, focusing on how many lots could fit into a subdivision and constructing streets to accommodate vehicles.

Garages were built in front, for the sake of convenience, and the kitchen was situated in the back, to keep an eye on children in the yard, Greg said.

“In most conventional new subdivisions, the only thing you know about your neighbor is what kind of car they drive or the lawnmower they use because the only door opening in the front is the garage door.”

An herb garden wall brings life to the kitchen area.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 27

But something changed for the McCalls when they began work on their first Billings subdivision. They decided to go a new direction, a sort of “Back to the Future” that incorporated all the best features of a close-knit neighborhood with modern touches, such as energy-efficient houses.

They brainstormed about what they wanted Josephine Crossing to contain.

“We needed to really focus our attention on how people live in the community and what that looks like,” Greg said. “We had to guess ‘what if you put a sidewalk this close to the front porch, socially will people say hello to each other, or stay inside?’”

If you included semi-private pocket parks in the neighborhoods, would people congregate and play games and have barbecues and encourage children to play together? Would a larger gathering space with a spray park, a playground and an amphitheater bring the whole community together?

Those were questions that they asked as they designed Josephine Crossing.

Top: A drop-zone near the garage door provides a place for kids to store gloves, boots and scarves during the winter, or the boxes and bins can hold toys or other small items. PHOTO COURTESY OF MCCALL HOMES Right: Ashton Urness, center, plays in the sand park at the amphitheater on Front Street in Josephine Crossing. Public spaces bring neighbors together in the neighborhood. BRONTE WITTPENN, GAZETTE STAFF

28 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Josephine Crossing Summer Concert Series The eighth annual Josephine Crossing Summer Concert Series features bands that perform Tuesdays at the amphitheater in the West End subdivision.

Concerts are free and open to the public. Proceeds from beer, wine and food concessions benefit local nonprofits that serve the Billings community. Face painting is also available for children.

Opening entertainment starts at 5 p.m., followed by the main act, from 6 to 8:30 p.m. Concerts are scheduled for: July 25: The Peach Pickers. Concert to benefit Songbird Community Garden.

August 15: Chris Smith and Band.

Concert to benefit Yellowstone Boys and Girls Ranch.

September 5: Repeat Offenders.

Concert to benefit Elysian School.

The top priority

Above: Applying subway tiles as a backsplash is a simple and timeless way to give a kitchen a new look.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MCCALL HOMES

Left: One way Josephine Crossing makes use of space is by adding built-in bookcases when homebuyers choose the fireplace option.

BRONTE WITTPENN, GAZETTE STAFF

“Everything was based on walkability within an area,” Greg said. “We had to make sure sidewalks were in the right location.

If they were too long, if it was difficult to walk, people would just drive.”

To put porches on the front of houses, the garages were placed in the back.

“The cars use the backdoor, the neighbors, the front,” he said.

Smaller lots made way for pocket parks. And diversity was a priority, Brad said, so different types of housing were incorporated in the design. That included town homes, small cottages and larger single-family homes.

“We wanted a wide range of sizes and types of houses so we had houses for different stages of life,” he said “So we have single-level homes that could work for families or empty-nesters and we have two-story homes for larger families.”

For the exterior look, the McCalls chose what’s called a builder’s style, a more traditional architectural design that uses craftsman, bungalow and farmhouse styles. To vary the look, similar plans and color schemes had to be kept a certain distance apart.

In addition to everything else, the brothers were committed to constructing energy-efficient houses. Josephine Crossing was home to the first Energy Star certified energy-efficient home in the state.

The McCalls closed on the property in fall 2005, and the first house was constructed in spring 2007. Homes range from just under 1,000 to 5,000 square feet and cost anywhere from less than $200,000 to more than $600,000.

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www.LiveAvenueC.com • (406) 894-2295 MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 29

Not for everyone

“As soon as it’s even decent weather, the champs are outside practicing,” he said.

They did more than design and build Josephine Crossing. Brad and Greg and their families live there.

The next step “It’s interesting to see Planning is complete and how kids who live there exwork is now starting on Anperience their day-to-day nafeld. It will have an even life compared to how kids in greater mix of housing types, typical suburban neighborincluding apartments for hoods do,” Brad said. “Our rent, Brad said. And it will kids can go from street to incorporate a retail center, street and house to house with the design mimicking and play together in parks downtown Billings’ historiand you feel like they’re safe.” Pendant lighting dresses up the kitchen, and can be used in addition to recessedcal buildings. can lighting or alone at night for a soft glow. Using recycled golf buckets makes a fun Both brothers agree Jo- addition. PHOTO COURTESY OF MCCALL HOMES It will have a small-town sephine Crossing isn’t for feel, Greg said, with all the everyone. One man said he’d rather spend time with his dog than talk to modern amenities. The north section of the subdivision that is twice the a neighbor. size of Josephine Crossing will be denser with a more urban feel, and clos“But for some people it’s exactly for them and nobody else has it,” he er to the river will be the larger lots with single-family homes. said. “You should never make something for everybody because if it’s for “One of the things we learned with Josephine is once you get to a cereverybody, then it’s for nobody.” tain number of human beings in a particular area, you begin to lose a Josephine Crossing has developed some annual traditions, including sense of place,” he said. sponsoring a summer concert series, putting on an annual Easter egg hunt So Annafeld will have a number of distinct areas, likely called quarters, and celebrating the Fourth of July. Every summer, a weekly concert series he said, that will have their own identities. brings in a variety of bands that draw a crowd, both residents and the The McCalls brought in five architects to do intense planning for Anpublic. nafeld, to focus on livability.

As for the Fourth of July, teams of neighbors get together for what Greg “The buildings shape the street and the streets shape how we live,” calls a serious cornhole competition.

Greg said.

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30 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

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JOSEPHINE HOMES

E

rin McCall, head designer for McCall homes, has worked with many of the homebuyers at Josephine Crossing to help them choose interior options that work best for them.

“We have to be so intentional on our use of space because we don’t have McMansions,” said McCall, one of the partners with husband Greg McCall of the family-owned McCall Homes.

That means adding lots of little closets when you can for storage. For homes with built-in fireplaces, “we have built-in shelves on either side for books and other things,” she said.

Off the garage is a drop zone, where kids can put their snow boots, gloves and hats when they come into the house. The entrances of the houses have a vestibule where guests can hang their coats.

The kitchen has an island with barstools for casual eating, and a dining area where families and friends can enjoy community.

“All of our dining rooms have just enough room for a table and a cool hutch that typically is used for storage,” McCall said.

Flex spaces are also popular. A family that doesn’t want a basement may choose to build a family room over the garage.

That lets adults enjoy conversation downstairs while the kids play in the family room on the second floor, McCall said.

“What buyers really want is to look at plans that have a lot of flexibility,” she said.

McCall prefers neutral palates for interior walls, gray or white paint, with pops of color or unique touches. For instance, she’s turned a five-foot NorthWestern Energy wooden spool, with all the original stamps on it, into a dining room table, and bought a variety of chairs to complete a dining room set.

“It’s more of a one-of-a-kind,” McCall said. “I go to antique stores or garage sales to find something and then design around that piece.”

For existing homes, McCall has a vari-

BY SUSAN OLP

Erin McCall in a model kitchen at the McCall Homes office.

CASEY PAGE, GAZETTE STAFF

Using shiplap behind a stand-alone tub adds an elegant look to a bathroom.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MCCALL HOMES

ety of ideas to spruce up kitchens and bathrooms. New paint, using lighter colors, is an easy alternative to brighten up a room.

Installing a back-splash to the kitchen walls

adds a new look.

“Subway tile is timeless and it’s still trending as a strong, simple inexpensive tile,” she said. “You won’t go wrong doing something like that.”

Adding pendant lighting in the kitchen also dresses up the space, McCall said. It provides a focal point over an island, and can be used with recessed-can lighting or alone at night for a softer effect.

“You can change the whole look in a room by what kind of lighting you choose,” she said.

One fun accent McCall likes in a bathroom with a stand-alone tub is shiplap, giving a wall the look of a ship’s wall.

“Or I love putting different materials on the wall, like whitewashed pine,” she said.

“Or you can use barn wood.”

McCall also uses mirrors to enhance the look of the bathroom.

“When you have two vanities, using one mirror makes it feel a lot bigger, especially if you have a window on the opposite side,” she said.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 31

GARDENS

The Jane Reger Sensory Garden memorializes one of the garden’s founders.

WITH

ABANDON

Z

BY TARA CADY | PHOTOS BY TAILYR IRVINE

ooMontana is a sanctuary not just for exotic animals, but plants that thrive in the lush climate volunteers have maintained for years.

Mondays bring long-standing helpers to the sanctuary for much-needed trimming and planting. Their oldest volunteers are in their 80s, and most have been involved through the botanical society since the zoo’s opening in 1995, said Teresa Bessette, ZooMontana botanical gardens volunteer and Yellowstone County master gardener.

The “show” that’s created from perennial and annual varieties makes ZooGardens a sought-after wedding venue. A number of senior couples go out for a regular walk on the paths, said Bessette.

32 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Local nurseries help where they can, whether that’s with free plants like this day lily at the end of their season or with mulch.

“You’ve got to have good dirt,” said volunteer Fran McDermott.

Plant varieties border the Sensory Garden field where couples wed in the summertime.

A butterfly lands on a coneflower.

Volunteer Nancy Jennings waters flowers in the Jane Reger Sensory Garden.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 33

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34 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

The perennial red hot poker, or torch lily, catches light from the sun at varying angles throughout the day.

Jane Reger, a founding member of the garden and zoo, is remembered within the botanical garden borders.

The Jane Reger Sensory Garden features her favorite colors—and butterflies that frequent the stone memorial bird statue.

Volunteer Julie Halverson was inspired by the Lady’s Mantle plant she saw in Windsor, England. Upon returning to Montana, she ordered it from Gainan’s Flowers and Garden Center and planted it at the zoo.

Halverson says the primrose that blooms in spring came from a ranch and is more than 100 years old.

Former zoo director of operations Dwayne Bondy would bring in unusual plants to see how they grow, like Russian sage and Karl Foerster.

“Now we’re going back to that,” Bessette said.

While visitors won’t find many roses because of deer, spiral rush and red hot pokers run wild in the children’s garden.

ZooGardens was a flat, prairie field before volunteers built a six-foot-deep hole and three-foottall wall for what is now the sensory garden in 1993. The community continues to add to Bondy’s and Reger’s vision through volunteerism and donation. Bessette says kids are always welcome to lend a hand in the garden that gives back in green thumbs.

Aspiring gardeners can find opportunities for growth in zoo volunteers’ mentorship. Interested helpers can call (406) 652-8100 or Bessette at (512) 569-1576.

EPICURE

Owner Harvey Singh

Seva flava the

Executive chef Josh Cannon

Manager Schuyler Budde

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 35

SERVE SELFLESSLY, SNACK SELFISHLY AT SEVA KITCHEN

BY TIFFINI GALLANT PHOTOS BY CASEY PAGE‌

‌G

reat minds think alike.

When local entrepreneurs Harvey Singh and Schuyler Budde put their heads together, visions of globally-inspired grub aligned and Seva Kitchen (pronounced Say-va) was born. The restaurant’s doors opened to downtown Billings June 1.

A Sanskrit word meaning “to serve selflessly,” Seva brings the best dishes from around the world to tables at 313 N. Broadway.

Executive chef Josh Cannon puts a twist on traditional to tantalize taste buds and diversify the downtown dining experience.

The no-frills menu showcases local ingredients and Cannon’s housemade handiwork. Small, medium and large plates served tapas-style satiate appetites of all sizes in a contemporary setting of intimate tables, lotus flower hanging lights and eclectic tunes.

It doesn’t stop there.

Cannon tells some of his secrets so you can serve selflessly at home, too.

Invite summer guests to take in the scents of sake, flatbread and chorizo as you share global fare from their kitchen to yours.

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The Burger These burgers mean business. The three Bs – bacon, beef and brioche – are enough to get your belly rumbling and ready to chow down. Small in size, big in flavor, these will be a favorite at any backyard barbecue.

INGREDIENTS: Red Pepper Aioli 1 ¼-lb. burger patty, cooked to desired temperature 2 slices cooked bacon 1 thick slice cheese of choice 1 brioche bun ¼ c. red pepper aioli sliced onion sliced tomato DIRECTIONS:

Assemble burgers in order of base bun, red pepper aioli, burger patty, bacon, cheese, onion, tomato and top bun. Eat and repeat.

INGREDIENTS: 6 egg yolks 2 red peppers 1 t. Dijon mustard canola oil salt DIRECTIONS:

Grill red peppers. Remove seeds and stems and set aside. In a food processor, blend egg yolks and Dijon mustard. Slowly incorporate canola oil until the mixture has a mayonnaise-like texture. Add red peppers to food processor and puree until smooth. Finish with salt to taste.

Asian Slaw Shishito and Edamame This simple appetizer combines two traditional Asian ingredients in an unexpected way. Sweet shishito peppers and edamame, a Japanese word for soybeans, meld in a tangy glaze to bring your taste buds a truly Far East treat.

INGREDIENTS: 1 c. sake ¼ c. soy sauce ½ c. mirin 2 T. fish sauce

3 c. shishito peppers 1 c. edamame oil sea salt

DIRECTIONS:

In a small bowl, place sake, soy sauce, mirin and fish sauce. Whisk until combined to form a glaze. Lightly coat a skillet with oil and heat until hot but not smoking. Add peppers and edamame, turning frequently until blistered.

Toss with glaze until evenly coated. Add sea salt to taste. Eat with your hands, if you dare.

Worried about your summer beach bod? Enjoy a salad that’s light on the waistline, but not on flavor. It’s chock-full of veggies and drizzled with a garlic vinaigrette that’ll have you forgetting it’s good for you.

INGREDIENTS: 1 head napa cabbage 2 c. Brussels sprouts 1 large carrot 1 lb. salad greens 1 c. snap peas garlic vinaigrette DIRECTIONS:

Shred napa cabbage, Brussels sprouts and carrot. Mix with salad greens and snap peas.

Douse in dressing and eat your heart out.

Garlic Vinaigrette

INGREDIENTS: 2 T. garlic puree 2 T. stoneground mustard ½ c. white wine vinegar 1 t. sugar 2 c. canola oil salt and pepper DIRECTIONS:

In a food processor, puree mustard and vinegar. Slowly incorporate oil to emulsify.

Add garlic puree and sugar, and blend until combined. Finish with salt and pepper to taste.

Hanger Taco Three is never a crowd when it comes to this taco trio. Fresh ingredients and grilled steak are wrapped up in a tortilla to transport these tacos from fingertips to tongue in no time.

INGREDIENTS: 1 6-oz. hanger steak, grilled to desired temperature 3 corn tortillas chimichurri corn zucchini relish DIRECTIONS:

Thinly slice steak against the grain. Assemble tacos in order of tortilla, hanger steak, chimichurri and corn zucchini relish.

Devour as designed.

Chimichurri

INGREDIENTS: 1 c. fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped ¼ c. oil 2 T. plus 2 t. red wine vinegar 2 T. fresh cilantro, chopped 1 t. crushed red pepper pinch of oregano salt and pepper, to taste DIRECTIONS:

In a food processor, blend all ingredients until combined.

Grilled Chicken Wings Pimento berries and scotch bonnet peppers, called allspice and habanero in the states, are grown in the lush tropical climate of Jamaica. These two ingredients are what give jerk seasoning its unique flavor. Add that to a charred chicken wing, and transport your taste buds right to “The Rock.”

INGREDIENTS: 24 chicken wings Jamaican jerk marinade DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Slather wings in marinade. In a shallow baking dish, spread wings in a single layer. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until internal temperature reaches 165 degrees. Remove from oven and grill wings for 2 to 3 minutes until slightly charred. Dip in extra marinade and devour. Napkins recommended, but you’ll probably want to lick your fingers anyway.

Jamaican Jerk Marinade INGREDIENTS: 1 red onion, quartered 3 green onions 5 garlic cloves 1 habanero ¼ c. lime juice 2 T. canola oil

2 2 1 2 2 1

T. soy sauce T. brown sugar T. dried thyme t. allspice t. black pepper t. cinnamon

DIRECTIONS:

Place all ingredients in blender and pulse until smooth.

Chef’s note: A habanero is a hot pepper. Removing the seeds before use does eliminate some of the heat, but those sensitive to hot peppers may wish to substitute a mild pepper instead.

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Corn Zucchini Relish INGREDIENTS: 1 c. corn 1 zucchini 1 red onion 1 red pepper 1 jalapeño 2 t. red wine vinegar zest and juice of 1 lime salt and pepper DIRECTIONS:

Dice zucchini, red onion, red pepper and jalapeño. In a small bowl, add all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Finish with salt and pepper to taste.

Red Pepper Flatbread There are tons of flatbread varieties from all over the world.

Tear into Seva’s non-traditional twist with this vegetarian version piled high with caramelized onion and pickled beets.

Empanada

Citrus Salsa

With a name meaning “to wrap or coat in bread,” empanadas have Spanish and Portuguese roots.

This finger food has a spicy filling surrounded in flaky dough that’s fried to perfection. Dip them in citrus salsa for a dish that doesn’t disappoint.

INGREDIENTS: empanada dough empanada filling oil for frying

Empanada Filling

INGREDIENTS: 1 lb. chorizo, browned and cooled ½ lb. cooked pinto beans 1 onion, minced 2 jalapeños, minced 2 c. shredded cheddar cheese salt and pepper, to taste DIRECTIONS:

In a large bowl, add all ingredients. Stir until evenly combined.

DIRECTIONS:

Scoop 2 teaspoons of filling into each circle of empanada dough. Fold dough in half over filling and pinch edges closed. Fry in oil 4-5 minutes until deep golden brown. Serve immediately with citrus salsa and sour cream.

Empanada Dough INGREDIENTS: 5 c. flour 1 T. salt ½ lb. butter, cubed

2 eggs ⁄3 c. cold water 2½ 2 T. vinegar

DIRECTIONS:

In a food processor, blend butter, flour and salt. Transfer to a large bowl and add eggs, water and vinegar. Knead until soft dough forms. Refrigerate dough for 1 hour. On a lightly-floured surface, roll dough out into ⅛-inch thickness. Using a 3-inch round cutter, create 12 circles of dough for empanadas.

INGREDIENTS: 2 tomatoes, quartered 1 red onion, quartered 2 red peppers, quartered 2 jalapeños, seeded and halved 1 c. fresh cilantro 5 garlic cloves zest and juice of 1 orange salt and pepper DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. On a baking sheet, spread tomatoes, onion and peppers in a single layer.

Drizzle with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Roast until slightly charred.

Remove from oven and set aside. In a food processor, blend garlic, cilantro, and orange juice and zest. Add tomato, onion and peppers, and pulse until combined.

In a saucepan, add salsa mixture and cook slowly over low heat until salsa has darkened and moisture has evaporated. Finish with salt and pepper to taste.

INGREDIENTS: 1 flatbread caramelized onion salad greens pickled beets, sliced dollops of goat cheese DIRECTIONS:

Assemble flatbread with a healthy portion of caramelized onions. Top with salad greens, pickled beets and dollops of goat cheese, as desired.

Flatbread

INGREDIENTS: 5 c. flour 2 c. water 1 T. quick-rise yeast 1 T. red pepper powder 2 t. salt DIRECTIONS:

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients until dough forms. Knead for 5 minutes. Separate into 3-ounce portions and roll flat. Spray skillet with non-stick cooking spray and grill dough for 90 seconds on each side.

Caramelized Onions INGREDIENTS: 10 lbs. onions ½ lb. butter water salt and pepper DIRECTIONS:

Julienne onions as thinly as possible. Place a rondeau pot or other similar pot over high heat. Add onions and cook until golden brown. Add water in small increments, as necessary, until onions are dark brown and sweet. Finish with salt and pepper to taste.

Yield should be less than one-third of the original amount.

LIBATIONS

PETROLEUM CLUB A FRESH TAKE ON COCKTAILS

BY MARLISA KEYES I PHOTOS BY CASEY PAGE The 22nd floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel is the best kept secret in Billings.

Cozy quarters with spectacular city views embody the Billings Petroleum Club, known for its classy dining experience.

Recently remodeled by Kibler & Kirch, the setting-with-a-skyline serves sweet eats and refreshing cocktails.

Bartender Sarah Blazer shares her adult beverage brilliance so you can bring that ambiance home while enjoying your own slice of Montana heaven.

Picture Perfect Martini

Named after Souad Jarecke, wife of photojournalist and Billings Petroleum Club board member Kenneth Jarecke, this drink is a different take on the blueberry lemon drop martini.

INGREDIENTS: 1 oz. Tito’s vodka 1 oz. blueberry vodka 1 oz. limoncello ½ oz. lemon juice

½ oz. triple sec ½ oz. simple syrup lemon wedges blueberries

DIRECTIONS:

To make syrup, mix equal parts sugar and water in a pan and simmer 3-5 minutes on the stove, then cool. Muddle eight blueberries and two lemon wedges. Run a lemon wedge around rim of martini glass then coat with sugar. Shake remaining ingredients in martini shaker with ice. Strain into martini glass, and garnish with a blueberry and lemon skewer.

Wildflower

Trimmed with edible flowers like bee balm, calendula or viola and a wedge of orange, this seasonal cocktail (pictured at left) suitable for drinking as the sun goes down.

INGREDIENTS: 1 oz. Hendrick’s gin 1 oz. elderflower liqueur ¾ oz. grapefruit juice 2-3 dashes of bitters

Summertime

Enjoy your salad days with a refreshing drink that plays on the crisp flavors of vegetable and herb gardens.

INGREDIENTS: 1½ oz. Healy’s gin 1 oz. Lillet ½ oz. simple syrup 3 slices peeled cucumber

4 basil leaves 2 lime wedges soda water

DIRECTIONS:

Muddle cucumber, basil and limes. Shake all ingredients in martini shaker with ice. Strain into glass over ice and top with soda water.

VARIATION

Don’t be afraid to experiment with ingredients, said Blazer, a self-described foodie. Substitute basil with your favorite herb, such as thyme or rosemary.

1 oz. egg whites ½ oz. elderflower liqueur ½ oz. grapefruit juice

DIRECTIONS:

Shake first four ingredients in martini shaker with ice and strain into martini glass. Dry shake last three ingredients in martini shaker until frothy and thick, approximately one minute. Spoon foam on top of drink. Garnish with grapefruit wedge.

VARIATION INGREDIENTS: 1 oz. Hendrick’s gin 1 oz. elderflower liqueur ¾ oz. grapefruit juice 2-3 dashes of bitters DIRECTIONS:

Shake all ingredients in martini shaker with ice. Strain into glass over ice and top with lemonade.

Strawberry Mint Moscow Mule

Fresh berries and herbs from your garden give a sweet, summery twist on this classic 1940s cocktail. Blazer keeps cocktails fresh by using seasonal herbs and fresh fruits.

Morning Star

A classy drink with simple ingredients, this one begs you to sit outside, relax and wait for the stars to appear in Montana’s skies.

INGREDIENTS: 1½ oz. Trailhead Spirits Highwood Rye Malt Whiskey 1 oz. lemon juice 1 oz. simple syrup ½ oz. absinthe DIRECTIONS:

Coat glass with absinthe. Shake remaining ingredients in martini shaker with ice. Strain into glass over ice and garnish with star anise and dried sage.

42 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

INGREDIENTS: 1½ oz. Headframe Spirits High Ore vodka ½ oz. Cointreau 4 oz. Cock’n Bull ginger beer

1 3 1 2

oz. strawberry syrup fresh mint leaves pint strawberries T. sugar

DIRECTIONS:

To make syrup, simmer strawberries and sugar in a pan 3-5 minutes on the stove. Puree and strain out seeds. Cool and store; will keep for one week. Slap mint between palms and tear in half. Shake vodka, Cointreau, mint and strawberry syrup in martini shaker with ice. Strain into Moscow mule mug over ice and top with ginger beer. Garnish with a strawberry.

VARIATION

Skip the mint, use less vodka and add coconut rum.

1 oz. Headframe Spirits High Ore vodka ½ oz. Cointreau

1 oz. Malibu 1 oz. strawberry syrup 4 oz. Cock’n Bull ginger beer

DIRECTIONS:

Shake ingredients in martini shaker with ice. Strain into Moscow mule mug over ice and top with Cock’n Bull ginger beer. Garnish with a strawberry.

Montana Mudslide

Elegance is a martini with a complex blend of chocolate, liqueur and delicate bourbon from Butte, Montana distiller Headframe Spirits.

INGREDIENTS: 1½ oz. Headframe Spirits Orphan Girl cream bourbon ¾ oz. Willie’s Distillery Coffee Liqueur ¾ oz. Godiva white chocolate ½ oz. Godiva milk or dark chocolate Aztec chocolate bitters DIRECTIONS:

Montana Sunrise

Almost too beautiful to drink, earth meets sky in this refreshing cocktail that encourages slow sipping as you view its layers of warm and cool colors. Billings Petroleum Club’s cocktails reflect chef Jeremy Engebretson’s focus on using fresh local ingredients, Blazer said.

INGREDIENTS: 1 oz. Midori melon liqueur 1 oz. peach schnapps

1 oz. huckleberry vodka 1 oz. coconut rum

Finely shave chocolate. Shake ingredients in martini shaker with ice. Strain into martini glass.

Garnish with shaved chocolate.

DIRECTIONS:

VARIATION

Add 1 ounce each orange, pineapple and cranberry juice for a fruitier flavor.

Skip the martini shaker and add all ingredients to a martini glass, plus ice and 4 ounces of milk.

Stir and serve.

Layer liquors in order listed, beginning with the Midori, in a hurricane glass.

VARIATION

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 43

LEGENDS

Y

ellowstone area tourism could not exist today without the influence of Howard Eaton.

Although he’s not necessarily a household name – even in Big Sky Country – he was a man responsible for kindling a love of the West from Easterners, especially elites who might otherwise have been intimidated by cowboy ways. They had heard of Yellowstone, but needed one of their own to show them the true beauty of the area.

Eaton introduced out-of-towners to Western lifestyles and took them on life-changing tours of national parks more than 100 years ago. Not only was he first, but he also probably did it better than anyone since. Eaton arguably founded the industry of dude ranching, which was a grandparent to most forms of Western tourism in Montana today.

Raised in a wealthy Pittsburgh family, Howard arrived in Medora, North Dakota, in 1879 to start a ranch. He was 28. Soon two brothers, Willis and Alden, joined him. In those days, the plains teemed with bison and other wildlife that attracted the world’s greatest hunters. A letter from Howard to a friend in New York prompted one such hunter, the young Theodore Roosevelt, to make his first visit to the area.

Both before and during Roosevelt’s stint living on a neighboring ranch, the Eatons found themselves regularly entertaining friends from the East. Some friends offered money to cover their expenses, especially in 1883 when several accompanied Howard on a pack trip to Yellowstone. As cattle ranching proved a dicey proposition, the Eatons started making better income from visitors.

Eaton was a husky man, tanned and blue-eyed, with a high-pitched voice and a powerful handshake, who had boundless reserves of hospitality that made him the public face of the family operation. Howard loved outdoor living and sharing that lifestyle with others.

Among the ranch’s 1880s guests were a great number of restless teenage boys, whose parents sent them West to keep them out of trouble. Staff at the ranch – nicknamed “savages,” like staffers at Yellowstone – noticed how enthralled the visitors were with immense hats, big revolvers, rattlesnake

BY JOHN CLAYTON

Above: Howard Eaton, pictured here as a young man, is credited with being one of the first dude ranchers in the West. Eaton led many pack trips into Yellowstone National Park from the ranch he worked with his brothers near Sheridan, Wyoming.

PHOTO COURTESY OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

44 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Horse packers and dudes pose for a photo with Howard Eaton, who is sitting atop his white horse at right, at a campsite in Yellowstone National Park in August 1899.

PHOTO COURTESY OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

belts, leather chaps and other accouterments of ranch life. The boys dressed colorfully—far more “cowboy” than any cattle tender did. In the wider culture, dude at the time referred to an overdressed fop, but when the genial Howard called someone a dude or for that matter a savage, the terms were scrubbed of derision.

Bison were a huge draw for early tourists.

As the shaggy creatures vanished from their former range, it must have been emotionally devastating for the Eatons and their guests.

Sadly, Howard never wrote a memoir, but the strength of his feeling for bison does show up in documentary records. In 1902, after a rancher named Charles Allard died, the herd of purebred bison that Allard and partner Michael Pablo had built in northwestern Montana was put up for sale. Howard bought 18 of the animals. Later that year he sold them to Yellowstone, where they mixed with three bison from Charles and Mary Goodnight in Texas. These animals and their descendants were held in enclosures at Mammoth Hot Springs and later in the Lamar Valley.

That bison herd is often credited with saving the species from extinction, although other, never-corralled bison also existed in the Yellowstone backcountry. In particular,

Howard Eaton, standing, is pictured in 1902 during a pack trip meal at Gibbon Meadows in Yellowstone National Park.

PHOTO COURTESY OF RICHARD CECIL HALL/STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF NORTH DAKOTA

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 45

of a Dude Rancher,” Struthers Burt Pablo, Allard and the Goodnights get a wrote that Howard was “one of the great lot of credit, as do conservation activist figures of the West… a more engaging George Bird Grinnell and the self-proand important person than Buffalo Bill moting Yellowstone employee Charles (Cody).”

J. “Buffalo” Jones. Not enough credit Dude ranching grew in part because goes to Howard Eaton. Granted, he was these entrepreneurs understood their little more than a middleman, and he operations as different from the tradimay have been self-interestedly hoping tional hunting camp. They appealed to to keep bison around to entertain his women and families, with relatively luxtourists. (He also kept bobcats and bears urious accommodations and activities in cages at the ranch, a mini-zoo.) But centered around horseback riding and sometimes self-interested middlemen The Howard Eaton Trail was dedicated on July 19, sightseeing rather than just hunting. are just what a threatened species needs.

1923. Standing next to the sign at Sheepeater They thus attracted repeat customers, Largely due to the loss of North DaCliff are Horace Albright, Stephen V. Mather, two of with some kids feeling like they grew up kota’s wildlife, in 1903 the Eatons’ ranch Howard Eaton’s relatives and Jack Haynes. on the dude ranch. moved to the east slopes of Wyoming’s PHOTO COURTESY OF HAYNES FOUNDATION COLLECTION/MONTANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY RESEARCH CENTER Many reported fond memories of Bighorn Mountains. They located 18 “Uncle Howard.” Neither Howard nor miles west of the rail line in Sheridan, his brother Willis ever married or had with a mountain setting for horseback children, but their avuncular disposiriding, trout fishing and big game hunttions made them widely loved. A dude ing. Here, they continued to build their would always find a blanket or an enclientele among wealthy Easterners. couraging word, a warm meal or a funIt was a golden era for Western tourny story. ism. The region was no longer bedeviled Although dude ranches never acby marauding hooligans or dangerous The Eatons’ Ranch still exists today, in the same spot in Wolf, Wyoming, chosen by cumulated a large percentage of total predators such as wolves and grizzlies; Howard and his brothers. It’s still in the tourist traffic, their elite patrons meant meanwhile expanding rail networks family, run as a guest ranch by descendants that they punched above their weight. made access easier than ever. Every of Alden Eaton. For more information, visit For example, acclaimed author Mary summer Howard would pack dudes, eatonsranch.com.

Roberts Rinehart published a 1916 horses and gear on a train through BillAlthough dude ranching doesn’t have the travelogue titled, “Through Glacier ings to Yellowstone, where they made cultural influence it did in Howard’s day, Park: Seeing America First with Howa set tour through the geyser basins, many other dude ranches continue to offer ard Eaton.” The Eatons’ friendships lakeside and canyon. He often took two vacation experiences that combine the rugged and luxurious. For more information, with visual artists, such as Russell and weeks, twice the standard park sojourn. visit the Dude Ranchers Association at Joe DeYong, also boosted their profile.

Every night in camp Howard told magduderanch.org.

The romance of the Old West was nificent stories of the old days in the The best source for more information on a big part of dudes’ attraction. Indeed, West. Sometimes he was joined by guest the life of Howard Eaton himself is Tom the Eatons continued taking dudes storytellers, including the famed painter Ringley’s book Wranglin’ Notes: A Chronicle through Yellowstone on horseback long Charlie Russell. of Eatons’ Ranch, published by Pronghorn after automobiles were allowed into the Soon a dozen additional dude ranchPress in 2012. park. Because horses would be spooked es opened in the Sheridan area, some by cars, their standard route followed run by his former employees or dudes. a trail parallel to the figure-8 of autoMore opened in the Cody, Jackson, Garmobile roads. After Howard’s death in diner and Red Lodge areas, among others. But dude ranching was such a clubby business, with new guests 1922 – of appendicitis at age 71 – the park reverentially dedicated always coming by referral, that it didn’t seem much like competition. this path as the Howard Eaton Trail.

In describing how Howard could “keep a crowd entertained For example, the Eatons continued to draw from Pittsburgh, decades after they’d moved west. In Jackson, Struthers Burt drew most of his for a year with stories of Indian fights, buffalo running, big game dudes from his former Philadelphia home; in Cody, Larry Larom hunting, and tales of interesting characters he has met and acted as guide for,” a 1920 Outing Magazine profile noted, “His experiences drew from New York.

In effect the dude ranchers were re-creating a less-risky version would fill a book.”

But Howard never wrote that book. Into his 70s he was still ridof frontier life. They had a high regard for history and the characters ing, camping, guiding, joking, befriending—living. He created the who had lived through it.

Howard Eaton had been around long enough to be part of that template not only for Western hospitality but also for taking the fullhistory as well as the nostalgia for it. In a 1924 memoir titled “Diary est pleasure in a rugged outdoor life.

INVESTIGATE FOR YOURSELF

46 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

THE

LONG SHADOW

OF WILLARD FRASER THE LEGACY OF BILLINGS’ GREATEST MAYOR

BY DARRELL EHRLICK

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 47

W

Billings Mayor Willard Fraser at his desk in Billings City Hall.

COURTESY OF WESTERN HERITAGE CENTER

here have you gone, Willard Fraser?

Today, Billings still remains the carefully planned community of the former mayor who has been dead 45 years.

Billings Gazette journalist Roger Clawson once called Fraser “a dreamer, clown and politician extraordinaire.” Others weren’t so charitable, referring to him as a “raving maniac,” “goofy buzzard” and “chronic liar.”

Today’s Billings hardly seems possible without Fraser; and yet ironically, the man whose personality seemed only eclipsed by the size of his dreams remains nearly forgotten by the successive generations who never got a call from City Hall from a man asking, “What have you done for your mayor today?”

They never got to see their mayor at an elementary school, reading the poetry of his famous father-in-law, Robert Frost.

They never realized that during his brief eight-year tenure as mayor, Billings doubled the number of acres devoted to parks.

Billings still exists in the shadow of Fraser’s legacy.

ABOUT THIS SERIES 48 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

One of the reasons it may be easy to forget Willard Fraser’s accomplishments is because they are overshadowed by his larger-than-life personality.

The Billings City Council was incredulous when he suggested — tongue planted firmly in cheek — that the city allot just enough money in the mayor’s budget to allow for a wreath of laurels.

Fraser had been given a bust of himself, made by noted Billings sculptor Rink Davis. He kept it in his office, but it would move to the lobby of The Billings Gazette upon his death so that others could see it, paying tribute to the mayor’s likeness.

He was the mayor known for traveling in police-chauffeured squad cars and by bikes. He loved it when the Eastern Montana College president referred to him as “Your Worship,” a term borrowed from Canada. He loved diversity in culture, but he loved his own Scottish heritage the most, taking particular pride in Scots Day during the Red Lodge “Festival of Nations.”

It’s easy to get distracted by a man who got frustrated when the city council axed $5,000 for a municipal band from his budget, and replied, “A city without a band is like a boy without a girl.”

This is the fourth in a four-part series chronicling the rise, fall, resurrection and legacy of Billings Mayor Willard E. Fraser.

Sometimes, he was just plain goofy if not thoroughly entertaining.

“We can’t have prejudice,” Fraser said. “It would mean the kids would have to live without ketchup on their hamburgers.”

You can almost hear the exasperation and bewilderment in The Billings Gazette reporter’s words.

“Ask him to unravel that statement and he will spin you a yarn a quarter hour long,” said Gazette staff writer Roger Clawson.

The ideas he championed included economic development by directly recruiting business; fluoride in the water; lobbying for a better funding mechanism from the state for cities; establishing the Pictograph Caves as a state park; establishing Par 3 Golf Course; annexing the Heights; improving the sewer and water system; fixing pollution from the area’s refineries; adopting city codes to prevent slums; restoring Yellowstone Kelly’s gravesite; bringing jet service to Billings; and putting a tunnel through the Rimrocks to connect the Heights.

The list continues. Not surprising for a man who sent out dozens of letters a day. Some ideas were bound to stick.

Even some of his wackiest ideas had sincerity and vision, for example when he proposed a ski slope. At Pioneer Park.

In the summer heat of August 1964, Fraser asked the city park department to investigate “installing a commercially made ski run in Pioneer Park or in bluffs across the Yellowstone River to the south.”

There was an earnestness about his vision.

“Having once mastered a small ski run, wouldn’t the people want to try their wings in a major ski area?” he wondered.

Apparently that idea melted quicker than a snowball at Pioneer Park in August.

Yet some of his bigger ideas still have meaning today.

Fraser suffered from asthma his entire life. In fact, asthma is what gave Willard Fraser to Billings. When he was a child, his family moved to Billings from Kansas because doctors said young Willard needed a different climate. He arrived in the Magic City before cars became commonplace and the refineries were established. But as both grew, so too did the pollution that again threatened his health.

Because of that, Willard Above: A sign explains went on a crusade against air the grave site of Yellowsone Kelly at Swords Park pollution in Billings, largely overlooking Billings and aimed at the refineries. Fraser the Yellowstone Valley. would not have been surprised LARRY MAYER, GAZETTE STAFF by the dangerously high sulfur dioxide levels in Billings a deLeft: The headline and story that announced Billings cade later, nor did he live long had lost millions of federal enough to see Billings impose dollars by failing to pass stricter air quality standards uniform building, electrical to eliminate SO2. Fraser might and plumbing codes. The even be proud that the city he idea of building codes was something championed by once led managed to clean up Willard Fraser. BILLINGS GAZETTE so much that sanctions for sulfur dioxide have been lifted by the federal government.

Leonard Dahl remembers waking up one morning, reading The Billings Gazette and discovering he’d just been appointed to the city’s cemetery board.

Odd, Dahl thought, since he didn’t know anything about cemeteries. He’d only casually known Fraser through the Masonic lodge.

“I called him up and said, ‘Willard, I think you made a mistake,’” Dahl recalls. “I think you meant to appoint a Dahl from the funeral business.”

Fraser shrugged him off.

“Leonard, I can’t appoint someone from a funeral home to be on the cemetery board,” Fraser said.

He stood by the appointment and so Dahl found himself recruited.

Willard would sometimes show up to the meetings — almost always in a police car.

“I remember once walking down the street and this police car rolls up and the door pops open,” Dahl recalled. “Well, it’s Willard and he says, ‘Get in.’”

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 49

This 2009 photo shows a youth instructional event at Par 3 Public Golf Course in Billings. Par 3 was the idea of former Billings Mayor Willard Fraser who believed the Magic City needed more recreational opportunities. GAZETTE STAFF‌ Fraser said he wanted Dahl to accompany him to a luncheon meeting — but was never really clear on which one it was.

They went to lunch, but there was no meeting. Dahl wound up with the bill.

During his time on the cemetery board, Dahl got to see just how visionary Fraser could be. The mayor dreamed of a public golf course on land the city owned next to Mountview Cemetery. However, the public objected.

“They were worried that a bunch of golfers would be drinking beer and cussing too close to the graves,” Dahl said, laughing at the idea.

Through the force of his personality, Fraser persisted, eventually winning his golf course.

But it wasn’t just about the big ideas — like the golf courses, Dahl said. It was much more careful and detailed plans that many gave Fraser credit for.

“There used to be a big fence that ran around the cemetery and mostly it collected beer cans and trash in the wind. It looked terrible,” Dahl said. “Willard wanted it down and said to me, ‘Come on, Leonard, let’s get that down.’”

When people objected to tearing down the fence, Willard was ready.

“He said, ‘Those who are outside the fence don’t necessarily want in and those who are in the cemetery aren’t coming out,’” Dahl remembers.

Fraser would take on a number of very serious issues including poverty and what he characterized as slums — inadequate housing for the poor.

His decision to start cleaning up the town started when an elderly Native American woman approached him, frustrated with squalid living conditions and her landlord’s seeming indifference.

50 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Fraser started a northside and southside community action program to improve slums. He pushed for citywide electrical, plumbing and construction codes to make sure Billings had safe housing.

Fraser, who had majored in archaeology at the University of Colorado, also had an abiding love of the Native American cultures that few understood. Many people in the city rolled their eyes when he pushed to get what is now a state park, Pictograph Caves, named as a historic place.

Fraser was also famous for his strident belief that Billings was the oldest city in North America, being lived in for 10,000 years. When historians and archaeologists would quibble with the claim, he invoked a mayoral prerogative and said that history belongs to those who tell it.

However, his love of Native cultures wasn’t just confined to caves. He was a friend to both the Crow and Northern Cheyenne tribes, and would often say the two nearby reservations were as much of Billings as Poly Drive.

When Fraser died, Joseph Medicine Crow would be a pall bearer at his funeral.

Fraser was rightly proud that Billings city government included the only cave commission, something that Carlsbad, Nevada didn’t have.

But it wasn’t just preservation of Native artifacts that drew Fraser’s interest, it was also current conditions.

In 1968, Fraser spoke out, aiming his criticism at the Bureau of Indian Affairs, saying the schools weren’t doing a good job for minority students.

At Montana State University Billings, there are several boxes of letters and writings from Fraser.

It’s hard to believe all the letters he wrote and memos he dictated. His secretary estimated he produced as many as 60 per day.

He devoured the printed word. When he read a story or an article that moved him, or even caused the flicker of a momentary thought, he would dictate a letter — hundreds to individuals, businesses and organizations.

He lobbied businesses to relocate to Billings. He went to Hollywood to recruit movie producers and advance scouts, believing Billings was ripe for Western films.

He would irritate other mayors as he rode his bike through smaller towns in the area to invite residents to Billings to shop, eat and vacation.

“He believed that the Billings city limits extended 300 miles in all directions,” said former Gazette reporter and opinion page editor Gary Svee.

Some projects that Fraser championed haven’t ever been realized, like fluoridation. Others have been with the city so long, they no longer seem novel, like the Heights. Other projects seemed as if he was looking into a crystal ball.

When Billings decided it was time to move its library from the old Parmly Billings Library (the current home of the Western Heritage Center), it began looking for new space.

When the Billings Hardware building was proposed, Fraser excoriated the square brick building as “not beautiful enough.”

Meanwhile the library staff called it a “librarian’s dream,” and said it was similar to the new Cincinnati library and could be made state of the art.

Fraser had already roiled the waters of the public by suggesting an ideal new home for a library might be at the aging Cobb Field ballpark and that the city may want to build a new ballpark to boot. Citizens were alarmed that their beloved ballfield might be demolished and Fraser quickly retreated.

However, he stood opposed to the Billings Hardware store, even getting a report that concluded converting the space may be a mistake.

The argument about the building became so heated and so divisive that Fraser got an opinion from the city confirming that he, as the chief city administrator, had the power to hire and fire the head librarian.

Ultimately, the city would remodel the Billings Hardware building with bonds totaling just less than $1 million. But, in the long run, Willard was right. By the time the library had ended its life, 46 years later, it was woefully out-of-date, leaving some to wonder: Why did Billings choose this building anyway?

He was a character driven by a very big heart.

Svee remembers once when fellow staff member Roger Claw-

son had written something that irritated Fraser. The mayor called Clawson to his office, and so Svee went along to try to assuage some of the fury.

When Clawson and Svee arrived, Fraser was livid.

“What do you mean telling people what I mean?” the mayor hissed.

Former Lieutenant Governor of Montana John Bohlinger believes Fraser’s greatest legacy was the broad vision he had for a Billings that extended beyond its borders.

“He knew we lived in Billings, but that we were also a part of a greater community which included Wyoming, Laurel, Cody and Worden,” Bohlinger said.

And so it is probably fitting that bagpipes piped him home to his grave in Mountview Cemetery — a graveyard without fences, nearby a golf course he helped make a reality.

He would have smiled at the pipes that reminded him of his ancestral home in Scotland. He would have loved the ecumenical entourage of his funeral. And he would have been proud that when it came time to say something about him, a man from one of the farthest parts of Billings, Harlowton, gave a few words.

“He dared new trails,” said Hal Stearns, the editor and publisher of the Harlowton Times. “He marched to the sound of a different drummer — and little mortals cannot deny him his place now as a big man with big vision and big dreams.”

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PHOTO JOURNAL

A baby great horned owl sits on top of a ledge on the Rims near Gregory Hills.

ADVENTURES

ON THE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRONTË WITTPENN

A

nyone who has lived in Billings long enough has some story that involves the Rimrocks, or as we locals like to say, “the Rims.” For some, these stories may include beers with friends, a first kiss or favorite trail to a cavernous hideout.

Regardless of the tale, these slabs of sandstone that hug our city represent something special.

It truly is what makes Billings different from most Montana towns. Experience what the Rims have to offer more than ever before. From trail runs and mountain bike rides to overcoming the crux of a climbing route, get hooked on Billings. Where else can you leave work and find adventure in 10 minutes?

52 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Billings resident Caden Kosovich stands on a boulder near Rim Point Drive. “Billings would not possess a bounty of curious trails and wonders if it weren’t for these famous Rims,” Kosovich said. “I identify my home here, along the high-rise of the Rims.”

Above: Kosovich stands with his mountain bike on a trail near Zimmerman Park. The Rimrocks are full of trails not only for two feet, but two wheels as well.

Left: Afternoon sun highlights cliff faces of the Rimrocks overlooking Billings.

Kosovich rides his mountain bike to the edge of the Rims near Zimmerman Park. Kosovich said he believes the Rimrocks are part of what makes this valley wide, wild and undeniably gorgeous.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 53

Right: Billings resident Mel Barbour hikes a trail near Gregory Hills. “My favorite part about living close to the Rimrocks is it eliminates all excuses to get active outside,” Barbour said. “We’re lucky to have that opportunity right in our backyard.”

Above: Kosovich sits on top of a boulder near Rim Point Drive. Climbing at night has its risks, so use caution when adventuring after dark.

This photo: Evening light falls on slabs of sandstone near Zimmerman Park.

54 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Left: A man climbs up a ledge near Gregory Hills.

Below: Alex Pearson of Beaumont, Texas climbs a rock climbing course called “Tree Route” near Gregory Hills.

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COLUMN

LISTEN FOR FACTS. DISCERN WHAT ARE FACTS AND WHAT ARE OPINIONS. GO OUT OF YOUR WAY TO LISTEN TO SOMEONE WHO HAS A DIFFERENT WORLD VIEW.

Two parade participants cheer during the 2017 Big Sky Pride parade in downtown Billings. BRONTE WITTPENN, GAZETTE STAFF‌

NEVER AGAIN IN OUR TOWN

BY CHUCK TOOLEY

‌A

ccording to FBI statistics, hate crimes against Muslims in the United States increased by nearly 67 percent from 2014 to 2015 — the worst it’s been since right after the 9/11 attacks. Hundreds more of these crimes were reported in the days immediately following the 2016 presidential election. Though Muslims are frequent victims, we see rancor and animosity spreading beyond religious targets to those of a different race, ethnicity and even political opinion.

How do we stop it?

There was a time in Billings when we were rocked with hate and city residents responded with courage. For a year, they fought violence with non-violence — and won. It was a seminal moment in our history that showed us who we were and what we could accomplish together.

56 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Maybe the story of Billings a few decades ago can be helpful in finding a new path today.

Starting in January, with KKK flyers placed on car windshields, we were assailed by incident after incident in 1993.

Swastikas and epithets were spray-painted on the home of a Native American woman, a young single mother. Self-proclaimed skinheads intimidated the congregation at Wayman Chapel, a small, mostly elderly and African-American church on the South Side of Billings. Homosexuals and Jews were singled out for harassment. Our Jewish cemetery was vandalized. Crosses were burned on the lawns of white Christians who spoke out.

The people in our town did not ignore this hate activity.

They responded to it.

The painters union showed up to scrape and re-paint the

Our story was all over the national news. Charles Kuralt did a special on ABC. A documentary titled “Not In Our Town” was broadcast on PBS. A children’s book was published. A made-for-TV movie was produced and titled “Not In THIS Town.” An anti-hate movement called Not In Our Town was established and continues to grow throughout North America and beyond.

Fast forward to 2017 and Billings people, along with Americans across the country, are seeing conflict and acrimony everywhere, including at our highest levels of government. Public Policy Polling did a survey in 2013 that showed Congress ranks lower in popularity than lice, colonoscopies, root canals and cockroaches.

Social media make it easy for users to express the worst of their natures every day and cast aspersions against people who don’t believe exactly Above: Hate-filled as they do. One could start to believe that Amergraffiti targeting icans hate each other. But there is so much that Native Americans we all desire: the love of family and friends; a safe appeared in Billings neighborhood where we can raise and educate in the fall of 1993. our children; the opportunity to enjoy success in BILLINGS GAZETTE FILE PHOTO our jobs and businesses; the chance to pursue our Left: A window displaying dreams—in peace. a menorah was broken With all these things we have in common, we at First United Methodist must try to be an American first, instead of a liberal Church on Dec. 15, 1993. or conservative first. Be an American first, and reach GAZETTE STAFF out to those of a different religion, race, party or ethnic group. And when you do, you must do one thing above all.

Listen.

I don’t mean listen so that you can form an argument against what you hear. I mean listen for understanding—why is vandalized house, free of charge. Members of white congregations started attending Wayman Chapel to show their support and ease someone saying what he or she is saying? Listen with your mind and the anxiety of those older folks. The Billings Human Rights Coalition your heart. Have the discipline to keep quiet, except to ask respectful organized a march of several hundred people down Poly Drive to questions for clarification.

Listen for facts. Discern what are facts and what are opinions. Go gather on the green at Rocky Mountain College.

Incidents and responses continued all year. In early Decem- out of your way to listen to someone who has a different world view. ber, someone hurled a piece of paving stone through the bedroom Don’t just compare it with your own world view, but try to underwindow of a 6-year-old Jewish boy who had placed a menorah stand why the other person has his or her view.

Why is this so important right now? Because if we listen with rethere to celebrate Hanukkah. This attack on the safety of a small child galvanized us, and Margie MacDonald distributed copies spect we don’t represent a threat to the other person—and at some of a picture of a menorah which we duplicated and circulated point he or she may want to listen to you, too. When you finally get to explain your point of view—and maybe even tie it together with the throughout the community.

Menorahs started appearing on Gentile buildings all over town, other person’s—trust grows. As we build trust we also begin to create but not without negative consequence. Christmas decorations real community and a more civil society.

When that happens, we will have started to thwart those who are destroyed, a church window broken, another shot, car windows trying to drive us apart. When we create a more civil society, we can smashed in. A bomb threat was made against Beth Aaron Temple. heal our country.

Still, menorahs kept going up.

I saw this on social media recently: On December 11, The Billings Gazette published a full page, color Live without pretending picture of a menorah, and thousands of them started blooming like Love without depending flowers throughout the community.

Listen without defending Just as suddenly as it started, the vandalism stopped. The menoSpeak without offending rahs stayed up, and the vandalism went away. Something powerful Maybe this is where we start. happened in Billings that year: love defeated hate.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 57

TRAVELOGUE

BY MARLISA KEYES

Big Sky views, some of which never see the light of day, are an attraction all their own.

The Milky Way, aurora borealis, meteor showers and stars are sights most people in the United States and around the world can’t see because of light and environmental pollution, but that’s not true in Montana, said Joseph Shaw, director of Bozeman’s Montana Optical Technology Center.

“People who live in Montana have the opportunity to see things in the night skies that other people don’t,” Shaw said.

An aurora arc highlights Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park.

PHOTO COURTESY OF JACOB W. FRANK/GLACIER NATIONAL PARK‌

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 59

The Milky Way hides behind a sandstone Medicine Rock painted with a yellowish light.

GAZETTE STAFF‌

Flowers silhouetted against the night sky in Glacier National Park.

PHOTO COURTESY OF JACOB W. FRANK/GLACIER NATIONAL PARK‌

he state’s rural nature and wide open spaces preserve nighttime visibility, making stargazing little different now than when Native Americans made medicine wheels to track the stars, solstices and equinoxes, said Lynn Powers, president of the Southwest Montana Astronomical Society.

Medicine wheels have a clear view of the sky, horizon to horizon; indicating it’s been a place to observe outer space for thousands of years.

“Montana is a great place to stargaze because we have lots of open sky,” Powers said.

It’s the reason amateur astronomer Joe Witherspoon moved from Tacoma, Washington and bought an 83-acre spread near Twin Bridges after it met his qualifications.

“We checked out the sky first,” he said.

The test he used is a good rule of thumb for anyone who wants to see objects in the sky at night without light interference. Witherspoon waited a half hour while his eyes adjusted to the dark and used the stars for guidance.

“If you can see all seven stars in the Little Dipper, then you have a dark sky,” he said.

Even near Montana’s large cities one doesn’t have to go far to see the stars, said Joel Guthals of Billings.

The president of Yellowstone Valley Astronomy Association Inc., Guthals got hooked on astronomy 15 years ago after a friend asked whether he wanted to see a contiguous object through a telescope.

“I almost fell over,” Guthals said. “What he’d pointed the telescope to was Saturn.”

A contiguous object is two or more planets that appear close together in the night sky. The second planet he saw was Jupiter.

After tiring of traveling to star parties around Montana that involved packing and unpacking a lot of gear, Guthals looks at the night skies from an observatory he built in his backyard, located 15 miles south of Billings in the hills, where the sky is darker and the air is more clear.

60 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

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Above: Shining through the trees in Yellowstone National Park is the Milky Way. Left: The glow from Harlowton lights the trees along the shore of the Musselshell River in Chief Joseph Park. Behind the trees is the Milky Way. GAZETTE STAFF PHOTOS‌

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 61

Pictured behind a sandstone medicine rock is the Milky Way.

PLACES TO VISIT

GAZETTE STAFF‌

Blue Mountain Observatory,

University of Montana. For information, call (406) 243-4299 or see their Facebook page.

Payne Family Native American

Center Star Gazing Room, University of Montana. For details, see hs.umt.edu/physics/outreach.

Taylor Planetarium, Museum of the

Rockies, MSU Bozeman. Admission included with museum admittance.

Adults, $14.50; kids (ages 5-17), $9.50; four and under, free; seniors (65-plus), $13.50 and MSU students $10 with valid ID. See museumoftherockies.org.

STARGAZING ORGANIZATIONS

Big Sky Astronomy Club, Flathead

Valley. See bigskyastroclub.org.

Central Montana Astronomy

Society, Great Falls.

See cmasweb.com.

Helena Astronomical

Society, Helena. See helena-astronomical-society.org or email jross@openvistas.net.

Kootenai Stargazers, Libby.

See visit ksaclibby.org or email president@ksaclibby.org.

Mission Valley Astronomy Club,

Ravalli. For information call (406) 745-4904 or email lahaye@stignatius.net.

Neuman Astronomical Society,

Helena. See go-astronomy.com or email drotness@carroll.edu.

Southwest Montana

Astronomical Society, Bozeman.

See smasweb.org or email admin@smasweb.org.

Western Montana Astronomical

Association, Missoula.

See missoulasky.org.

Yellowstone Valley Amateur

Astronomers, Bozeman. For information call (406) 652-3317 or email cglig@imt.net.

Yellowstone Valley Astronomy

Association Inc., Billings.

See yvaa.homestead.com.

The best views are to the east, south and west, he said.

Shaw, introduced to astronomy by his father while growing up in Alaska, said Montana’s higher elevations and dry climate with less water vapor contributes to clear conditions, making it easier to detect the sky’s wonders. He suggests incorporating the hobby on camping trips.

“It’s by far the best way to see the night sky,” he said.

Beginner tips‌

Before spending money on stargazing, be sure you like the hobby, Guthals said.

Read, research online, join an astronomical society or attend star parties where you can try out members’ telescopes and ask questions.

“Many Montana (communities) have some sort of star clubs,” Shaw said. “These people are just geeks.”

Stargazing tools needn’t be expensive, said Witherspoon, who hosts monthly star parties at his Cottontail Observatory when the weather is nice.

A lot can be seen with the naked eye or binoculars, while a downloadable star map includes information specific to that month’s sights. Con-

sider comfort and bring a chair and blanket for meteor showers.

Preserve the dark by having a red flashlight or two handy for looking at maps or recording information. Convert a regular flashlight by covering it with red brake light tape, red cellophane, or a red balloon with the neck off, said Powers, an adjunct MSU earth science professor.

It wasn’t until after reading “NightWatch: A Practical Guide to Viewing the Universe” five times that Guthals bought a used telescope.

What you’re looking for‌

This year’s most interesting outer space event takes place during the day with a solar eclipse on Aug. 21. Although the best locations to see it along the path of totality are in Wyoming and Idaho, 95 to 97 percent of it can be seen at Twin Bridges and 93 percent in Glacier National Park.

The eclipse’s totality, while lasting 2 minutes and 18 seconds at Driggs, Idaho, is not to be missed, Witherspoon said. It is rare that a total eclipse takes place in the lower 48 states.

“People shouldn’t miss out on this,” he said.

The sun can cause eye damage if any of it is visible during the eclipse, requiring the use of solar glasses, according to website eclipse2017.org.

STAR PARTIES

Virginia City, Ball Park, July 28,

6 p.m.; Aug. 19, 9 p.m. Tour of night sky and viewing through telescopes.

Glacier Park Star Party, Logan Pass,

July 28 and Sept. 1. Limited space, ticket for one vehicle needed.

For Apgar Village events, see montanastarwatch.org.

Public night, Cottontail Observatory,

Twin Bridges, July 29, 7:30 p.m.; Aug. 26, 7 p.m.; Oct. 21, 6 p.m.

Sheridan Library, Sheridan,

Montana, Aug. 18, 7-10 p.m.

Montana Starwatch, Cottontail

Observatory, Sept. 15-17.

Dakota Nights Star Party, Sept.

20-26, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota.

Visit montanastarwatch.org for information.

CMAS Star Party, Lewis and Clark

Interpretive Center, Sept. 22 and Oct. 20, 6 to 10 p.m.

Cosmic Collisions & Viewing,

Sheridan Library, Sheridan, Montana, Oct. 13, 7-10 p.m.

Virginia City, Ball Park, Oct. 14 and

Oct. 20, 6 p.m. to 12 a.m.

Montana State University Billings

hosts star parties in spring and fall.

For details, call University Relations, 657-2266.

BIG SKY EVENTS

Blue Mountain Observatory:

Open house, Aug. 25, 9:30 p.m.; Sept. 15, 8:45 p.m., and Sept. 22, 8:30 p.m. Reservations required.

The Hot and Energetic Universe:

Taylor Planetarium, Museum of the Rockies, Bozeman, daily through Aug. 31, 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

Beyond the Stars: Taylor

Planetarium, daily through Aug. 31, 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.

Using a pinhole camera is another option. Without looking at the sun, aim a piece of paper with a small hole in it at a sidewalk or flat surface to observe the star’s shadows.

If viewing the eclipse from the path of totality where the moon entirely covers the sun, it can be viewed with bare eyes.

Witherspoon and Shaw said there are plenty of other phenomena in Montana’s skies to explore, including satellites, the International Space Station, Milky Way and constellations.

For the next five to six years, anticipate fewer chances to see the Northern Lights.

One World, One Big Sky: Big Bird’s

Adventure: Taylor Planetarium, Saturday and Sunday through Aug. 27, noon.

Above: A hiker looks at the Milky Way in Glacier National Park. PHOTO COURTESY OF JACOB W. FRANK/GLACIER NATIONAL PARK‌

Top: Stars surround a hay bale in a field off of Highway 191. GAZETTE STAFF‌ Left: The Taylor Planetarium at the Museum of the Rockies hosts programs on outer space. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE MUSEUM OF THE ROCKIES‌

Cassini’s Grand Finale at Saturn:

July 28 and Aug. 25, 6:30 and 8 p.m., Payne Family Native American Center, Star Gazing Room, Missoula. For information, call (406) 243-5831.

Stargazing Under the Caverns Sky:

Sept. 1 and 2, 8:30-10 p.m., Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park.

Sun spot activity, which determines frequency of the aurora borealis, occurs in an 11-year cycle. It is at its lowest point or solar minimum. Expect to see aurora borealis two to three times a year on the low end and 10 to 12 times during solar maximum, Shaw said.

It is still possible to see the Northern Lights, like ones reported in early June near Bozeman and Yellowstone National Park, he said. The trick is paying attention to the KP index that measures solar activity. Apps like Aurora send alerts when the indicator is six and higher.

Alignment of magnetic fields, dark skies and solar activity, not time of year, determine when auroras occur, or can be seen.

Three meteor showers take place this summer: Delta is July 12 through Aug. 23, with the peak on July 23; the Perseids are July 17 through 24, with the apex on Aug. 11; and the Delta aquariids begin in mid-July and crest July 28 or July 29.

Where to go‌

Witherspoon said finding a place to stargaze in Montana is as close as your backyard or as far away as Bureau of Land Management lands or state and national parks. He advises traveling to higher elevations with better vantages above lights and atmospheric disturbances, preferably 30 degrees above the horizon.

“All you have to do is get away where it’s dark,” Witherspoon said. “All most people in Montana have to do is drive a few miles out of town in the country.”

The Beartooth Highway near Sinopah Mountain and Two Medicine Lake is another prime location, as are areas near Deer Lodge, Sheridan and Missoula. Powers stops along Lost Trail Pass near the Idaho and Montana border, and Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman.

Although cloudy skies and wildfires reduce visibility in Yellowstone, there are plenty of chances to view the night sky, said Jonathan Shafer, Yellowstone National Park public affairs employee.

“Getting away from the populated areas of the park gives people the opportunity to see the night sky without interference to see thousands of stars they might not be able to see (elsewhere),” Shafer said.

He recommends stargazing at Hayden Valley, Yellowstone Lake or driving six miles south of Mammoth Hot Springs to Swan Lakes Flats. Visitors should park legally in pull-outs or parking lots, dress warm, use mosquito repellant and carry bear spray.

Moonlight walks for viewing geysers and the park’s other thermal features allow them to “see the park in a new light,” Shafer said.

Glacier National Park, known for its dark skies, is another prime viewing spot. The National Park Service suggests stops at the head of Lake McDonald, Saint Mary Lake and Logan Pass to view the Milky Way. The Northern Lights can be seen at Lake McDonald and Goat Haunt.

Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park were designated as an International Dark Sky Park in April. The park is

64 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

Above: Old Faithful erupts by starlight in Yellowstone National Park.

GAZETTE STAFF‌ Top: A hiker walks beneath the Milky Way and a meteor shower in Glacier National Park. PHOTO COURTESY OF JACOB W. FRANK/GLACIER NATIONAL PARK‌

committed to protecting its nighttime environment for animals with a 67 percent reduction of noncompliant lighting by 2020.

Shaw, whose job is to increase employment in Montana, sees night skies as another economic opportunity. That means it’s a resource that needs to be protected by turning off outside lights at night, repositioning lights to aim at the ground, replacing light fixtures with designs that minimize glare and bulbs approved by the International Dark-Sky Association.

“So many people are coming to visit from places where they can’t see stars,” Shaw said.

Aurora borealis reflects in Lake McDonald at Glacier National Park. PHOTO COURTESY OF JACOB W. FRANK/ GLACIER NATIONAL PARK‌

WEBSITES

Montana Starwatch:

montanastarwatch.org Cottontail Observatory:

cottontailobservatory.org International Space Station:

spotthestation.nasa.gov For stargazing locations:

darksky.org For forecasts:

cleardarksky.com For the solar eclipse:

eclipse2017.nasa.gov

APPS & MEDIA

Apps: Star Chart, NASA,

Night Sky Lite, SkyView Free, ISS, Sky Map, Star & Planet Finder, Aurora Forecast, and Dark Sky meter Instagram: yellowstonenps

and glaciernps

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POMPEYS PILLAR LEAVE THE BEATEN PATH AND FOLLOW LEWIS AND CLARK

BY ROB ROGERS

Aerial view of the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers in North Dakota. It’s this spot where Lewis and Clark spent the night of April 26, 1805 as they journeyed west along the Missouri. LARRY MAYER, GAZETTE STAFF

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A

s summer turns into fall, it’s a good time to get out on the road and explore Eastern Montana, a stark and desolate expanse filled with wonder and delight.

And one of the best ways to see it is the way Meriwether Lewis and William Clark did.

The Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation will host its annual meeting in Billings from July 21 to 26, the first time in its history.

It’s a good reminder that Eastern Montana still has plenty of treasures to offer.

The eastern side of the state is dotted with interpretive sites and out-of-the-way stops that put you in the actual spots Lewis and Clark passed as they journeyed west in 1805 along the Missouri, and as Clark returned east in 1806 along the Yellowstone.

That wealth of locations means you can go beyond the usual Interstate 90 pull-offs and see more of the authentic and oftentimes forgotten places where the group stood, slept and counseled as the Corps of Discovery.

In late April 1805, the expedition came up the Missouri River and passed out of what would become North Dakota before entering present-day Montana where the river has its confluence with the Yellowstone.

It’s a famous spot on the river and a great place to pick up the trail.

To get there, head north from Glendive on MT 16 until you get to Sidney.

At Sidney, Highway 16 veers east and the northbound road becomes Highway 200. Stay on Highway 200 until you reach Fairview, which sits right on the border between Montana and North Dakota.

After crossing the state line, turn north onto ND 58 and follow the road until you get to the turn off for State Road 147. Before visiting the confluence of the two rivers, you can make a quick stop at the small hamlet of Nohly, which sits at the end of Road 147.

Lewis and Clark spent April 27, 1805, their first night in what is now Montana, on the banks of the Missouri a mile from the present location of Nohly. You can find the exact spot by simply driving over to the famous railway Snowden Lift Bridge, the largest structure in the area that now spans the river where the expedition camped.

The bridge was constructed in 1912 by the Great Northern Railroad with the purpose of

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Buck Nelson paddles past the White Cliffs on the Missouri River as he traces the Lewis and Clark Trail from east to west. The White Cliffs sit along the river just beyond Fort Peck.

PHOTO COURTESY OF BUCK NELSON

“Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery reached the headwaters of the Missouri River and named the three tributaries in July 1805. With great difficulty the Corps of Discovery fought rapids and troublesome mosquitoes as they pulled their boats upstream to the west.”—excerpt from “One Trail Through Time: Lewis & Clark marker. A floating party on the Madison River approaches the confluence with the Jefferson River to form the Missouri River at Headwaters State Park. PHOTO COURTESY OF KURT WILSON/MISSOULIAN being able to raise, allowing riverboats to travel up the Missouri. The riverboats never came, but trains still cross the bridge today.

Once you’ve taken in the sites, go back down 147 until you get to ND 58 and head

north toward Buford. Right after you cross over the Missouri, you’ll see signs for Fort Buford State Historic Site on your right, and a little further up the road you’ll find Fort Union National Historic Site.

A sculpture of Lewis, Clark and Sacajawea stands next to the Missouri River on the trail system between Black Eagle Falls and Giant Springs State Park. PHOTO COURTESY OF TOM BAUER/MISSOULIAN Both were built a couple decades after Lewis and Clark passed through the area, but they’re a great place to visit. The historic sites offer a good introduction to the history of the region with lots to see and do.

Fort Buford sits at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers near the spot where Lewis and Clark spent the night of April 26, 1805.

The next morning, the expedition packed up its gear and got back on the river to continue its journey west. You’re going to do the same.

Follow Highway 58 north to Buford. Once

there, head northwest on Highway 327 to Bainville.

Bainville sits on U.S. Highway 2, which follows the Missouri River until you get to Nashua. It’s along this stretch of Highway 2 where many of the Lewis and Clark sites are a little off the beaten path and yet still accessible by car.

From Bainville head west on Highway 2 toward Culberston. Just west of Culbertson, Highway 2 crosses over Big Muddy Creek, which is marked with a sign. Just beyond the overpass, turn north on Indian Road, a dirt road that will take you nearly to the banks of the creek.

It’s a barren spot of land but you’ll want to make the stop. It’s here that Lewis and Clark camped for the night on April 29, 1805, and where Lewis, according to his journals, saw his first grizzly bear, which he shot and killed.

From there, continue west on Highway 2 until you reach Brockton. On the western edge of town you can turn south on South Track Road, which will take you to the banks of the Missouri.

It’s here, on the south side of the river, that the expedition camped on April 30, 1805.

Clark, along with expedition guides Toussaint Charbonneau and Sacajawea, spent most of the day walking the banks of the river. Lewis encountered and shot a massive bull elk, which he said stood 5 feet 3 inches tall from hoof to shoulder.

Leaving Brockton, continue west on Highway 2 until you reach State Road 480 just east of the community of Sprole. Turn south onto 480 and before the bridge that crosses the Missouri is a dirt road that heads west toward the riverbank.

The end of this road gives a good vantage over the stretch of river where the expedition spent May 1 and 2, 1805. Lewis describes it as a windy stretch of the river. He reported that on the morning of May 2, they awoke to an inch of newly-fallen snow.

He also described finding a number of old American Indian camps along this stretch of the river, particularly around what is now present-day Poplar, the next stop.

Return to Highway 2 and continue west to Poplar, passing through town. On the western edge of the city, turn left on Road 34 which quickly ends. From there turn southeast on Road 17-1054. The road eventually drops straight south, ending at a bow in the Missouri River. To the east, you can see where the Poplar River empties into the Missouri, and due south is its confluence with Redwater River.

Exploring the mouth of the Poplar River, Clark found nothing but porcupines, which is what he initially named the river. They also found the mouth of Redwater River and, looking west, described seeing countless buffalo in every direction.

Returning to Highway 2, continue west until you reach the intersection with State Highway 13, a couple miles before Wolf Point. Turn south onto Highway 13 until you reach the Missouri River. There on the banks is Lewis and Clark Park, a good spot to wrap up the trip.

The park marks the spot where the expedition spent May 4, amid countless buffalo and old Indian hunting campsites. The following day took them right to the spot where Wolf Point is today.

Lewis wrote in his journal, “The country is as yesterday, beautiful in the extreme.”

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BEST OF W

Alberta Bair and Will James, who was a family friend of the Bairs.

COURTESY PHOTO‌

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‌BY JACI WEBB

hen you enter the lobby of the Charles M. Bair Family Museum in Martinsdale, make sure to look up to see the abstract paintings hanging from the ceiling.

The Bair Museum focuses on Western art and artifacts so the paintings may come as a shock. They were painted by renowned Bozeman artist Harold Schlotzhauer and inspired by Japanese kites.

As head curator and director Elizabeth Guheen gestures to the pieces, she explains, “I think Marguerite would approve.”

That’s an important consideration at the Bair Museum.

Even though the Bairs are deceased, Guheen honors their eclectic tastes as she curates their extensive collection of Western art and showcases other artwork.

Marguerite, the oldest of the two Bair sisters, was particularly interested in art. Alberta was more likely to spend time outside working with her father, Charlie.

Marguerite married the ranch foreman Dave Lamb late in life and died in 1976. Alberta never married and died in 1993. But before their deaths, the sisters worked for years to conceptualize what would become the Bair Museum.

The mission of the museum, which opened in 2011, is to educate and perpetuate the historic and artistic significance of the Bair family legacy. The Bairs also created a scholarship fund for graduating high school seniors from Meagher and Wheatland counties.

Charles M. Bair was born in Ohio and moved to Montana in 1883 to be a railroad conductor for the Northern Pacific Railway. He became the largest sheep rancher in North America and one of the largest in the world, earning him the moniker, the King of the Western Wool Growers.

Bair becomes a millionaire‌

Bair made most of his money during the Klondike Gold Rush in Alaska in the 1890s, and then returned to Montana to raise sheep. In 1910, he reportedly had 300,000 head of sheep.

It’s fun to visit the museum and stumble across a sheep drive taking place along the stretch of Highway 12 that leads to the museum, just a mile outside the tiny town of Martinsdale. The scenery is stunning with the Crazy Mountains looming over lush grasslands. On the way, you’ll pass the turnoff to Two Dot, which has long been the brunt of jokes about towns so small that you’ll miss them if you blink.

Above: The Bair home in Martinsdale is a sprawling 11,000-square-foot ranch house with a stunning collection of English silver and French and English antiques.

Left: The Bair Museum features a patio where visitors can eat a picnic lunch.

JACI WEBB PHOTOS, GAZETTE STAFF‌

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 71

The Bair Museum is 25 miles west of Harlowton or 34 miles east of White Sulphur Springs. Two Hutterite colonies and a couple of ranch houses coming from Harlowton break up the mostly grass scenery. You can see why sheep do so well in this area. Watch for sandhill cranes and great blue heron along the Musselshell River on the drive out.

Arriving at the museum and ranch house, the buildings seem out of place – a red-roofed sprawling ranch house and THE CHARLES a state-of-the-art museum M. BAIR FAMILY tucked up next to sandstone bluffs and sitting on MUSEUM Located in Martinsdale, the museum an immaculately maniis open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven cured lawn. days a week through Labor Day. After The museum is also Labor Day through October, the muhosting part of the Bair seum is open Wednesday to Sunday, collection of photogra10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Photogravures by Edward S. Curtis and paintings by vures by Edward S. Curtis, Harold Schlotzhauer are displayed which includes compelthrough Oct. 29. ling photographs of NaFor more information visit tive Americans. There is a www.bairfamilymuseum.org photograph of Red Cloud from 1907. The photogravures are printed in sepia ink and because of the technique, they look like paintings not photographs.

“Curtis embedded himself with these tribes and they trusted him. There is a story about a Native man who said, ‘If Curtis hadn’t been here to take this photograph, I wouldn’t know what One of the bathrooms in the Bair home is decorated in gold with a crystal my grandfather looked like.’ One of chandelier. JACI WEBB, GAZETTE STAFF‌ the tribes gave him the name Shadow Catcher,” Guheen said.

Guheen said Alberta only spent one night in the big Also on display are Native American items, including new room because “it felt like sleeping in a museum.” elk tooth dresses, moccasins and beadwork.

Instead, she preferred to sleep in a small bedroom off The house is a museum of sorts. It started small when the kitchen. it was built in the 1860s, but the Bairs kept adding room One colorful story about Alberta has her wearing her after room, moving the garage three times to accommomink coat around the ranch. date the bigger house. By the time they quit adding on, the “Alberta used to put on her mink coat and go out to the house was 11,000 square feet. sheep shed to smoke cigarettes and check out the scene,” In her later years, Alberta added an elegant bedroom Guheen said. with expensive furnishings and intricate woodwork.

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Above: Elizabeth Guheen looks over an Edward S. Curtis photogravure of a Native American from one of the Plains tribes.

JACI WEBB, GAZETTE STAFF‌

Left: Red Cloud Oglala chief photographed by Edward Curtis.

EDWARD CURTIS‌

A silver vase worth thousands of dollars is used to show off plastic tulips at the Bair home in Martinsdale. Alberta used to say, “Tulips don’t grow in the winter in Montana.”

JACI WEBB, GAZETTE STAFF‌

Exotic meets practical‌

When touring the museum, you also get to explore the family home, which is a rare treat with a glimpse into the Bair’s exotic tastes in furnishings and more practical tastes in Western fixtures and art. The house is a combination of a working man’s ranch house and a millionaire’s show of wealth with more than 20 rooms, many filled with 19th-century Georgian furniture. One of several bathrooms has a gold-plated toilet roll dispenser, a crystal

chandelier and gold-printed wallpaper showing Roman chariots. The bathroom was inspired by Marguerite’s visit to New York.

A vase worth thousands of dollars sits on a fireplace mantel with some cheap plastic tulips in it. When people teased Alberta about the strange combination of the expensive vase and the ugly flowers, Alberta would say, “You can’t grow tulips in Montana in the winter.”

Many of the furnishings either came from Europe or

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 73

sitions the originals New York or were were on display in made in Montana to the house. The Naresemble the pieces vajo rugs have also the Bair sisters found been removed from on their travels. But the floors where there is a practical they sat for decades side to the furnishand are also on disings. The Bair sisters play at the museum. bought a couch for The Bairs had $15 at a yard sale a home in Billings in Harlowton, exwhere the Alberta plaining to visitors Bair Theater is now that they bought it at 2801 3rd Ave. N.; because it was comand Alberta Bair fortable. In the same Charles Bair was an invited guest when Theodore Roosevelt was honored at was born there in room, there are Loua breakfast in Billings. COURTESY PHOTO 1895. The ABT, is the 14th tables. originally the Fox Theater, was remodeled and renamed The second weekend in November, it’s Upstairs Downin 1987 to honor Alberta, who loved attending shows at stairs Day at the Bair house, which means visitors get to the theater and meeting celebrities, including Harry Belapeak into closets and cupboards to get a real glimpse into fonte and Tanya Tucker, who toured in Billings. Photos of the Bair family’s lives.

Alberta posing with some of the celebrities are on display “We’ll have 200 to 300 people come in for one day,” in what she jokingly called “the trophy room” at the Bair Guheen said. “It’s exhausting but fun. It’s like playing with ranch house in Martinsdale. a doll house as an adult.”

The Bair family legacy is an important part of Montana Because of damaging light coming through the winhistory, and because the house was left intact when the last dows, the original paintings and drawings by family family member died in the 1990s, visitors get an unfiltered friends Charlie Russell, J.K. Ralston and Will James are glimpse into their lives. displayed in the museum, but prints hang in the same po-

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MONTANA’S INDIAN BATTLEFIELDS

BY JEFF WELSCH

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 75

where the soldiers and warriors stood — and fell. he undulating prairie above Others, including Rosebud Battlefield State Park near the Little Bighorn River Busby and Bear Paw Battlefield south of Chinook, have southeast of Crow Agency was the site of the sigfar fewer amenities while still offering gripping snapshots nature event in America’s three-century conquest of frontier history through trails and markers in country of the western world and its Native inhabitants. that remains largely unchanged.

As 300,000-plus annual visitors to the National In most cases, skirmishes are all but lost to the dustPark Service site are well aware, the story of Sioux bin of history, their memories kept alive only by lonely and Northern Cheyenne warriors’ annihilation of stone plaques and markers — or nothing at all — on priGen. George Armstrong Custer’s 7th U.S. Cavalry vate lands where only the (and his Crow scouts), owner’s care maintains the which stunned a nalandscape’s integrity. tion, is told in poiAt least a half-dozen gnant and graphic Sioux, Northern Cheyenne detail. and Crow battlefields of But Little Bighorn varying renown are withis merely the Super in a tomahawk’s throw of Bowl of Montana’s the state’s so-called “WarIndian War history. Anyrior Trail” – U.S. Highway where from 20 to 200 bat212 from Crow Agency tlefields — depending on through Busby, Lame Deer your definition of “battle” and Ashland to the state’s — dot the vast state, some southeast corner at Broashedding important insight dus. Ironically, the battle into the impending rout at signifying the end of the Little Bighorn or its afterGreat Sioux War of 1876, math. at Wolf Mountain (or Belly Montana’s Indian Wars Butte), is marked only by a can mostly be condensed sign creaking in the wind into three major arenas: and a stone National HisThe Blackfeet Wars of toric Landmark behind a northwestern Montana, barbed-wire fence along a the Nez Perce’s 1,170-mile remote, dusty backroad. march from eastern OreIn each case, if you gon to 40 miles from Canatread lightly and listen as da, and the well-chronicled PHOTO COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK SERVICE‌ Chief Joseph, along with chiefs Looking Glass, Ollokot and the wind rustles through Sioux/Northern Cheyenne White Bird, led a band of nearly 700 Nez Perce on an the grass and sage, you battles led by chiefs Sitting 1,170-mile “trail of tears.” can almost hear bullets flyBull, Crazy Horse, Dull ing, warriors and soldiers Knife, Two Moons and shouting, and the wailing others against the likes of of Indian women and children as they flee in their final Custer, Miles, Howard, Terry and fellow cavalry leaders gasps of freedom. whose names now are fixtures in eastern Montana maps The Battle of Little Bighorn and adjoining Reno-Benas towns, parks and other landmarks. teen Battlefield in the same complex need no reintroducSome, such as Little Bighorn and the Battle of the Big tion here. But if your list of summer activities includes Hole (Nez Perce) site near Wisdom, are tourist-beckondigging into more obscure Montana Indian Wars history, ing areas operated by the Park Service. Visitors can eashere are a few benchmark battlefields not to miss: ily spend hours wandering those landscapes, picturing

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Marias Massacre (Baker Massacre) DATE: Jan. 23, 1870 LOCATION: About 15 miles southeast of Shelby on the Hi-Line. Drive east on US 2 to Dunkirk and drive four miles south on South Dunkirk Road to Dobyn’s Road. Go east for a half-mile to Robinson Road, then south two miles to the river. The site isn’t marked (except by a retired combine), but a two-track road leads to a bluff and a view of the place where the Piegan were camped.

TRIBE: Piegan Blackfeet WHAT’S THERE: The massacre site is now on private land owned by caring stewards, so the best you can get is a distant view. A state historical marker on US 287 just north of Choteau tells the shameful story.

THE STORY: As the name implies, the Marias Massacre — or Baker Massacre as it is sometimes known and Bear River Massacre among the Blackfeet, for their name for the Marias — was hardly a battle. A staggering 173 Piegan women, children and mostly elderly men were slaughtered on a frigid day during what later was determined to be an attack on the wrong

group of Blackfeet. The massacre was touched off by the murder of a white trader who was killed near Helena by a young warrior named Little Owl. Determined to exact revenge, a regiment under Major Eugene Baker began pursuit of Little Owl’s Piegan band, which had joined up with a group under Mountain Chief, all believed to be camped along the Marias River. As temperatures reached 30 below zero, the soldiers came upon a camp of 32 lodges along the river, surrounding it and commencing firing. Only when it was over did an Indian scout for the cavalry realize that it was a peaceful group led by Heavy Runner, who had papers from the government indicating they were to be left alone. Heavy Runner was killed while greeting the soldiers with his papers, and of the 172 others, some 50 kids less than 12 years old were either shot or killed with a bayonet. The soldiers did take about 100 prisoners, but when they realized many of the Piegans had small pox they cut them loose in frigid temperatures with no clothing, food or shelter, causing many to freeze to death. Only later did the soldiers learn Mountain Chief was camped a few miles downstream.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: Even Americans who supported Indian relocation were appalled by the massacre, which some called a war crime. Initially, Washington tried to cover up the shameful act, but a report by a Blackfeet agent for the government was leaked and an outcry ensued. Under public pressure, President U.S. Grant instituted a policy of peace and permanently wrested control of Indian policy from the War Department (instead putting it under Interior). For the Blackfeet, it was a turning point in their war with the government, seeing it as the penultimate “crushing blow” before the extinction of the buffalo in their territory 14 years later. Some 145 years later, the tribe did exact a measure of revenge when one of Mountain Chief’s great-granddaughters, a Browning banker and rancher named Elouise Pepion Cobell, sued the U.S. Government for trust monies owed to Indians across the country; Cobell, who died in 2011, lived long enough to win the largest settlement ($3.4 billion) ever against the government.

Blackfeet members, including descendants of survivors, gather at the massacre site every year to commemorate the tragedy.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 77

Big Hole National Battlefield DATES: Aug. 9-10, 1877 LOCATION: 10 miles west of Wisdom off MT 43 TRIBE: Nez Perce WHAT’S THERE: A recently renovated National Park Service interpretive center with books, artifacts and films features a sweeping view of the North Fork of the Big Hole River valley and the tepee poles representing the site of the Nez Perce village. A lower paved parking lot provides access to three self-guided trails that wind through the battlefield and to a hillside perch amid pines where the cavalry’s cannon was stationed. Until several years ago, small markers with painted eagle feathers indicated where the Indians fell, but those were removed because the Park Service decided they didn’t offer an accurate representation of what took place.

THE STORY: After refusing to move from their homeland in eastern Oregon to a reservation in Idaho, a band of nearly 700 Nez Perce led by chiefs Joseph, Looking Glass, Ollokot and White Bird embarked on an 1,170-mile “trail of tears” across Oregon, Idaho, Montana and 5-year-old Yellowstone National Park. For much of the summer they eluded 2,000 soldiers under Gen. Oliver Howard and Col. John Gibbon, outfoxing the soldiers in most of 18 separate engagements. But in the early dawn of Aug. 9, 1877, in what would become the third and most significant of the four major battles of the Nez Perce War, Gibbon’s forces surprised the Indians, killing close to 90 – mostly women and children. Many Nez Perce escaped, but they were battered and knew their journey was at end.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: The Battle of the Big Hole clearly was the turning point of the Nez Perce Wars of 1877, putting the Indians on their heels for the final two months of their desperate effort to reach safety in Canada.

A monument to the soldiers at Big Hole National Battlefield serves as a reminder to one side of the tragedy. At one time, the site featured markers where both Indians and soldiers alike fell, but they were removed after complaints from some visitors that the image was too graphic. PHOTO COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK SERVICE‌

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A stone structure and plaque mark the Battle of Canyon Creek west of Billings, where the Nez Perce and U.S. Army fought briefly in 1877. Nez Perce warriors fired at the soldiers from the rim in the background. JEFF WELSCH, GAZETTE STAFF‌

Battle of Canyon Creek DATE: Sept. 13, 1877 LOCATION: Eight miles north of Laurel, 16 miles west of Billings TRIBE: Nez Perce WHAT’S THERE: A small covered pavilion with three interpretive signs and a sandstone pillar describing the battle marks the junction of Buffalo Trail and Lipp roads west of Billings and north of Laurel. Don’t bother exploring the creek bottoms or distant rims where the Nez Perce had staked out positions, though; they’re all on private land.

THE STORY: For more than a month since the Battle of the Big Hole, the Nez Perce had continued to elude Gen. Howard, their easterly and then northerly pilgrimage taking them through America’s first national park, Yellowstone, where they killed two tourists.

The 7th Cavalry under Col. Samuel Sturgis was ordered to intercept the Indians as they emerged from Yellowstone, but they failed until the tribe reached turbid Canyon Creek where it emerges from a cut in the rims. The Nez Perce came to Yellowstone River country believing the Crow would provide asylum. But, fearing retaliation and mistakenly believing helping the U.S. Government would serve their future, the Crow refused Chief Looking Glass’ overtures; some even became cavalry scouts. Despite being outnumbered about 2-to-1, Looking Glass’ small group of snipers managed to keep the cavalry at bay long enough for the women and children to make an easterly escape along the rims before turning north in hopes of finding an ally in Sioux Chief Sitting Bull in Canada.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: Though the Indians suffered only three casualties, the Crow, who refused assistance, used the cover of the U.S. Army to steal about 300 Nez Perce horses, further demoralizing the tribe and slowing its progress just enough to allow the troops to catch up a month later 40 miles shy of Canada.

Battle of Bear Paw DATES: Sept. 30-Oct. 5, 1877 LOCATION: 15 miles south of Chinook TRIBE: Nez Perce WHAT’S THERE: A Nez Perce National Historical Park sign off MT 240 marks the parking area for a 1.25-mile mowed trail through the grasslands where the last of 18 Nez Perce battles of 1877 unfolded. Small markers decorated with tokens ranging from coins and trinkets to cigarette butts denote the places where chiefs Ollokot, Looking Glass and Toohoolhoolzte fell. Before driving to the battlefield, stop at the Blaine County Museum (open daily during summer) in Chinook to learn more about the Nez Perce journey. Trail maps are available at the museum and battlefield parking area.

THE STORY: Forty miles from freedom, and having eluded Gen. Howard one more time, the Nez Perce stopped near the Bear Paw Mountains, an island range within view of Canada.

Numbering about 700 at this point, including 200 warriors, the tribe was confident it would reach refuge with Sitting Bull and resistant Sioux in Canada, unaware that Gen. Nelson A. Miles was rapidly approaching from the southeast. With the help of Sioux and Cheyenne scouts, the soldiers crept up on the Nez Perce as they slept along Snake Creek. The Army stole about 200 horses, preventing any daylight escape. The tribe and cavalry fought fiercely on a cold night and into the morning, when Miles and Chief Yellow Bull met under a flag of truce.

The battle nevertheless continued and was a standoff until the arrival of a cannon that blasted the Nez Perce’s fortified positions and turned the tide. Wounded, sick and shivering, the tribe’s resolve finally waned until Chief Joseph surrendered, finally uttering the famous words “From where the sun now stands, I shall fight no more forever” to end the Nez Perce War.

The rifle pit where Nez Perce Chief Looking Glass was killed at Bear Paw, the tribe’s final battle. Visitors continue to leave various tokens at his marker.

PHOTO COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK SERVICE‌

This pin — one of about 150 like it at Bear Paw National Battlefield — marks where a soldier was stationed during the final skirmish.

PHOTO COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK SERVICE‌

THE SIGNIFICANCE: The Battle of Bear Paw was the definitive end of a summer-long flight that began in eastern Oregon and covered 1,170 miles into Idaho, Montana, Yellowstone National Park and back into Montana. When it was over, the Nez Perce were sent to reservations in northern Idaho and eastern Washington, never to see their Oregon homeland again.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 79

Battle of Powder River

Rosebud Battlefield State Park

DATE: March 17, 1876

DATE: June 17, 1876

LOCATION: 35 miles southwest of Broadus, near Moorhead

LOCATION: About 27 miles south of Busby, on the eastern edge of the Crow Reservation

TRIBES: Lakota Sioux, Northern Cheyenne

TRIBES: Lakota Sioux, Northern Cheyenne

WHAT’S THERE: Just off a county road on private land overlooking the meandering Powder River is a mound of cemented rocks and four brass plaques bearing the names of soldiers killed in the battle, which took place along the river. The Fulton family owns the land and maintains the Veteran of Foreign Wars markers. To see artifacts from what locals refer to as “The Reynolds Battle,” visit the Powder River Historical Museum in Broadus.

WHAT’S THERE: After a one-mile drive on gravel off MT 314 is a parking area with interpretive signs describing a battle that took place on what is now a largely undeveloped 3,052-acre state park and National Historic Landmark. An undulating onemile loop drive or walk on gravel provides a further glimpse of the story, albeit with some imagination required.

THE STORY: The cavalry didn’t lose many battles to the tribes, but this was one – three months before Little Bighorn. As part of the War Department’s plan to round up hostiles and move them to a reservation in the Black Hills of South Dakota, the Army moved into southeastern Montana, where on a frigid late-winter day scouts found a Northern Cheyenne band of about 60 warriors and a few Oglala Sioux led by Chief Two Moons camped in about 40 lodges along the river. In the early morning, Col. Joseph J. Reynolds attacked in a blizzard, firing 100 rounds for every round from the tribe, destroying the village and rounding up 700 ponies. Despite the barrage, only a few Indians were killed, and the soldiers, weary from marching and frustrated by shots from snipers, retreated. A day later, Gen. George Crook met up with Reynolds and discovered four soldiers dead, many more wounded and 66 suffering from frostbite. Crook subsequently ordered the column to head for a fort in Wyoming.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: By all accounts, the Battle of Powder River ushered in the Great Sioux War of 1876. And though cold and battered themselves, the Indians recovered 500 of their stolen ponies and were emboldened by a victory that set the stage for two more big battles that summer.

Though some historians blame Gen. Crook for his lack of support of Reynolds, he was so disgusted with the colonel for losing to the Indians that he initiated a court martial. Reynolds eventually was expelled from the Army, effectively ending his career. Crook’s regiment regrouped but would be ambushed some three months later at Rosebud Creek, losing 28 soldiers and rendering him ineffective for Little Bighorn.

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THE STORY: Eight days before Little Bighorn, there was Rosebud. For most of the Indian wars, tribes were on the defensive. But at Rosebud Creek, about 1,500 Sioux and Northern Cheyenne went on the warpath, attacking 1,000 troops and more than

250 Shoshone and Crow scouts under Gen. George Crook’s direction. In what would be one of the largest battles of the Indian Wars, the soldiers and tribes fought to a stalemate, each losing about 10 men and each claiming victory when the Lakota and Cheyenne called off the battle, setting the stage for the most famous fight of them all.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: Scholars agree that the Sioux and Northern Cheyenne sent a formidable message to the U.S. Government at Rosebud, and that it was one of the few Indian success stories. What also isn’t debated is that in the aftermath, Crook was forced to head south to resupply, leaving Gen. George Armstrong Custer without full support at Little Bighorn. Some say Crook was short on provisions anyway and couldn’t have helped Custer, but his legacy was permanently tarnished and the Indians were at the apex of their confidence.

Hayfield Fight DATE: Aug. 1, 1867 LOCATION: About three miles northeast of Fort Smith TRIBES: Sioux, Northern Cheyenne WHAT’S THERE: The battlefield site is on private property, but respectful visitors are allowed to stop and read the small National Park Service stone monument marking the spot. It’s about three miles east of Fort Smith, near Cottonwood Camp on the Bighorn River. On County Road 40A, cross the Bighorn Canal and look for NE Warman Loop. The marker is in a field near both roads.

THE STORY: Now a mecca for trout anglers, Fort Smith was one of three installations built after the Civil War to provide safe passage for gold miners

headed to Montana from Wyoming on the Bozeman Trail. Naturally, the trail and what it brought didn’t sit well with the Lakota Sioux, Northern Cheyenne and Northern Arapaho, who raided the remote outpost frequently in the summer of 1867. Finally, in midsummer, a band of about 800 warriors attacked 20 soldiers and nine civilians in a hay field and log corral about three miles from the fort. Though the battle could be heard inside the fort, no support was sent to the corral. Despite the Indians’ clear numbers advantage, the battle was a stalemate due largely to the soldiers’ impenetrable cover in the walled corral and new weaponry that had just arrived from Europe. As daylight waned, the Indians gave up and left.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: Fort Smith commander Lt. Col. Luther Bradley didn’t make much of the fight, and it’s a relative footnote in Indian Wars history. But even though the Indians didn’t suffer significant casualties (eight dead, 30 wounded), their inability to take the fort forced them to rethink their strategy. After the Hayfield Fight and a similar skirmish a day later in present-day Nebraska, the Indians abandoned full military-style attacks along the Bozeman Trail and for the next decade only conducted occasional raids.

The battle also bears some renown for the introduction of the “1866” rifle, which was rarely used after the Hayfield Fight because the soldiers weren’t fond of them.

Battle of Cedar Creek DATE: Oct. 21, 1876 LOCATION: On both private and BLM land about 20 miles northwest of Terry along MT 253 TRIBE: Lakota Sioux WHAT’S THERE: Nothing marks the site, but to see artifacts visit the Frontier Gateway Museum in Glendive. To visit the site on a hillside, make an appointment at least a few days in advance with the Prairie County Museum in Terry; they’ll be happy to escort you to the battlefield a modest walk from the highway.

THE STORY: Nearly four months after Little Bighorn, the Great Sioux Wars of 1876 were beginning to

wind down and the tribes were becoming more conciliatory. Many Sioux wanted to return to their reservations. As Col. Nelson A. Miles and Gen. Alfred Terry settled for the winter at the confluence of the Tongue and Yellowstone rivers near present-day Miles City, Sioux Chief Sitting Bull met with Miles and offered to leave the soldiers alone in exchange for continued hunting of buffalo. Miles instead demanded surrender, talks broke down and after both sides retreated to their stations a skirmish broke out on the East Fork of Cedar Creek, a sparsely vegetated bump roughly on the divide between the Missouri and Yellowstone river drainages in country now called “The Big Open.” The Indians fled and the troops chased Sitting Bull for 40 miles, stealing the

tribe’s supplies along the way. Six days later, having suffered six casualties, the 2,000 weary Sioux surrendered and returned to reservations, with Sitting Bull and a few holdouts headed for Canada.

THE STORY: Seven months after Little Bighorn, most Sioux and Northern Cheyenne had resigned themselves to reservations, including the followers of Sitting Bull (Sioux) and Dull Knife (Northern Cheyenne). After a failed attempt to negotiate peace with Gen. Miles and a subsequent murder of an Indian delegation, Sioux Chief Crazy Horse decided to exact revenge. Amid a blizzard, Crazy Horse and his band of Oglalas, Brules and Northern Cheyenne attacked nearly 500 troops under Miles along the Tongue River. Fighting in three feet of snow and temperatures well below zero, the soldiers held their ground and, after five hours of battle, claimed

seven modest hills from which the Indians attacked, including Belly Butte. The tribes scattered and would never mount a serious offensive again.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: The Sioux did not suffer many losses at Cedar Creek, but the skirmish was pivotal.

Most notable was the growing dissension among the Indians, many of whom were weary and fearful of the impacts winter would have on their families.

Lesser chiefs pleaded with Sitting Bull to surrender, and the chief had threatened to kill any of those who did. When it was over, fewer Sioux were committed to Sitting Bull’s leadership and the tribe’s days of freedom clearly were numbered.

Battle of Wolf Mountain DATE: Jan. 8, 1877 LOCATION: Four miles southwest of Birney along the Tongue River and eastern edge of the Northern Cheyenne Reservation TRIBES: Lakota Sioux, Northern Cheyenne WHAT’S THERE: An interpretive sign creaking in the wind and a National Historic Landmark stone marker along a remote dusty road is all that marks what is considered to be the final event in the Great Sioux Wars. Slip through a tattered barbed-wire fence to explore the rocky hillside called Belly Butte, where the battle took place.

THE SIGNIFICANCE: Though the remoteness and lack of ceremony belie its significance, the Battle of Wolf Mountain did indeed signal the end of the Great Sioux Wars. The tribes were demoralized, and many Sioux and Northern Cheyenne began to trickle onto reservations. After withdrawing from Wolf Mountain, Crazy Horse and the rest of his followers would arrive four months later at Fort Robinson, Nebraska, where they officially ended their resistance, forever taming the Plains for European settlers.

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MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 81

82 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

SWEET TREATS WITH MAGIC CITY HISTORY

BY TIFFINI GALLANT

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 83

J

oseph Edy wanted to become a household name, but he didn’t live to see it happen.

Edy’s Grand Ice Cream now stocks the shelves of grocery stores across the nation, and it started with an unexpected partnership and a pair of sewing shears.

When a Magic City confectionery ventured out to make a name for himself, he proved that the long journey to success can be a rocky road, indeed.

Humble beginnings

When Joseph Oliver Edy arrived in Billings just shy of his 18th birthday, the city was not yet 30 years old.

But the growing metropolis offered opportunity to entrepreneurs.

Joseph was born in DeSoto, Missouri on April 2, 1891. His mother, Grace, stayed at home with him and his older siblings, Emily and John, while his father, William, worked as a locomotive engineer.

Nine years later, after Emily passed away, the family took a boarder into their home. Edward Dowling worked in a confectionery, or canJoseph Oliver Edy was dy store, and may have born in DeSoto, Missouri April 2, 1891 to William J. Edy and inspired Joseph to enter the confection In 1906, the Great Western Sugar ComGrace L. Edy (North). It wasn’t craft. pany built the sugar beet refinery in south until his father, a locomotive When William died in a locomotive Billings, which, at the time, some affectionengineer, died during a railroad accident in 1906, Grace and Joseph headately referred to as “Sugar City.” By the 1910s, accident in 1906 that he and ed to the Magic City. John had already Broadway Avenue was central to the city’s Grace moved to Billings.

COURTESY PHOTO moved to Billings after studying engineerbusiness hub. At 122 N. Broadway, Joseph ing at the University of Missouri. He became and his mother opened Edy’s Confectionery, Ice a deputy surveyor for Yellowstone County and Cream and Light Lunches in the Babcock Building was eventually promoted to chief highway engineer near the theater’s entrance. for the state of Montana.

Serving food, beverages, ice cream, candy and chocolate Having some social standing by proxy, Grace was able to pro- confections, Edy’s quickly became a local favorite. In a May 11, vide for her younger son and encourage him to pursue his dreams. 1911 article, The Billings Times called it “undoubtedly the most Out of the tragedy came opportunity for Joseph. He saw a popular resort of its kind in the Sugar city,” and attributed its sucgrowing city with something missing, so he decided to fill that hole cess to “courteous treatment, careful attention to business and the with chocolate. very lowest prices consistent with the quality of goods sold.”

Soon, the business took on the slogan, “Everybody Likes Edy’s.”

Welcome to Sugar City And they did.

In the years leading up to the 20th century, confections experienced a period of transition. Cocoa powder was largely available, the sugar beet had been discovered, and the rise of industry simplified candy production. Names like Stephen Whitman of Whitman’s Chocolates and Richard Cadbury, who distributed the first Valentine’s Day box of chocolates, were already well-known in the United States.

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In the early 20th century, Broadway Avenue was the business hub of Billings. Edy’s storefront “Candy” sign can be seen on the right.

PHOTO COURTESY OF WESTERN HERITAGE CENTER

Joseph and his mother opened Edy’s Confectionery, Ice Cream and Light Lunches at 122 N. Broadway in the 1910s. The business was housed in the Babcock Building and catered to theater patrons and passersby.

The confectionery hosted ladies luncheons, afternoon tea, and evening dances and balls.

Babcock Theatre-goers PHOTO COURTESY OF BILLINGS stopped by the shop afPUBLIC LIBRARY ter shows for a bite to eat or some of the fudge, chocolate marshmallows or peanut brittle manufactured in the building’s basement.

The Koyote, a publication by then Billings High School students, featured a section of remarkable comments overheard around the city. In its January 1918 issue, it documented a comment made by a young girl passing the Edy’s window.

“Oh, my! Don’t those chocolates look good, though!” she said.

Her escort responded, “Uh-huh! Let’s stand here and look at them a while.”

Change is good

At 21 years old, Joseph became the full proprietor of Edy’s. He married Grace Wilson, the daughter of an insurance agent from Kentucky. The two bought a home on Lewis Avenue and had a son, named after Joseph’s father, William, in 1916.

But three years later, he was ready for a change.

According to The Billings Gazette on September 14, 1919, Joseph believed “there is a big future in the wholesale candy line.” Having been selling his confections for nearly a decade, he decided it was time to transition fully to candy sales.

He sold his store, determined to “devote his attention to the wholesale candy business.”

Under a new name, Edy’s Wholesale Candy Company, Joseph continued his true passion at 115 N. 27th St. He manufactured the regionally-known Edy’s Redwood Chocolates, a boxed assortment of his own. He began advertising, with the Edy’s name appearing regularly in The Billings Gazette.

While wildfires plagued the region, the nation recovered from World War I and the start of prohibition loomed, Montanans needed a boost in morale. Edy’s became more than the promise of quality chocolate; Joseph worked to cultivate relationships with his customers.

When Billings volunteer coal miners were refused access to supplies by Bearcreek merchants, they requested help from Billings businesses. Edy’s answered the call for candy, sending a box loaded with 120 pounds of assorted confections.

That winter, a note of appreciation for his customers appeared in The Billings Gazette. It read: The Holiday Season affords an opportunity to express again the pleasure we derive from our business relations with you and on behalf of our entire organization, we wish for you and yours A Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year.

– Edy’s Candy Co. Inc.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 85

Sweet serendipity

Despite the continued success of Edy’s in Billings, change was again on the horizon.

Joseph closed the doors to Edy’s, bound for another destination. He and his family followed John once more – this time to the Golden State. His brother had become the city manager of Berkeley, California, and the promise of a growing community in Oakland gave Joseph new inspiration.

His six-year-old son died shortly after their arrival. They buried William in Oakland’s Mountain View Cemetery.

Fourteen months later, the rest of the world was seeing a state of post-war resurgence, the radio began to enter homes nationwide, and a new baby boy, Joseph Oliver Edy Jr., was welcomed into the world. Before his second birthday, his father introduced California to Edy’s.

Joseph opened the first Edy’s Character Candies shop in Oakland in 1925 at 3233 Grand Ave. The confectionery grew so quickly, he needed more locations until he owned and operated six in the area.

At the same time, William Dreyer, an ice cream maker, was

Joseph along with his wife, son and mother moved to Oakland, California in the 1920s. In 1925, he opened the first Edy’s Character Candies shop at 3233 Grand Ave. and soon operated six in the area.

recruited to run a plant for National Ice Cream, which brought him to Oakland, too. Seeing the Edy’s enterprise as an opportunity COURTESY PHOTO to grow his own ice cream endeavors, he reached out to his fellow entrepreneur.

It was then that Joseph’s vision of Edy’s as a household name advanced toward becoming a reality.

It must be grand

Joseph Edy and William Dreyer founded Edy’s Grand Ice Cream in Oakland, California in 1928. Within one year, they opened two locations selling the famous Edy’s confections, ice cream, beverages and lunch items.

They were an instant success.

Despite Joseph’s mother suffering a paralytic stroke and dying in 1930, he oversaw the operation of his Character Candies stores, now ice cream conglomerates, and was growing an empire out of the Edy’s name.

The Oakland Tribune featured a full-page spread of the Edy’s achievements. The November 1931 article highlighted the Pacif-

Big Sky Country Confections Brockel’s Chocolates 117 N. 29th St., Billings (406) 248-2705 Candy Town USA 820 Shiloh Crossing Blvd., Ste. 1, Billings (877) 651-9196

Big Sky Sugarbuzz 81 Snowy Mountain Cir., Big Sky (406) 993-2255 Bequet Confections 8235 Huffine Ln., Bozeman (877) 423-7838 La Chatelaine Chocolat Co. 110 S. Rouse Ave., Bozeman (406) 552-5440

86 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

The Chocolate Moose 140 E. Main St., Bozeman (406) 551-2148

Candy Masterpiece 120 Central Ave., Great Falls (406) 727-5955

Big Sky Candy 319 W. Main St., Hamilton (406) 363-0580

Remember That? Candy Shop 2420 Harrison Ave., Butte (406) 498-6500

Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory 1200 10th Ave. S., Ste. 16, Great Falls (406) 315-1002

Parrot Confectionery Store 42 N. Last Chance Gulch, Helena (406) 442-1470

Old West Candy Store 202 S. Main St., Darby (406) 821-4076

Martinson’s Ranch Chocolates 2359 N. 8th Rd., Huntley (406) 967-4904

t s e B r u o Y LocaL SToRE FOR

Inspired by confectionery greats like Stephen Whitman and Richard Cadbury, known for their boxed chocolate assortments, Joseph gained fame for his “Edy’s Redwood Chocolates.”

ic Slope Dairy Show and the Edy’s Grand Ice Cream first-prize win “with the highest score ever made” of 95 percent. The manufacturing plant Dreyer and Joseph ran boasted the capacity to fill 1,000 gallons of ice cream every day, and they announced the addition of a COURTESY PHOTO catering service. The center headline “It must be GRAND” and congratulations ads by other local businesses wishing Edy’s Grand Ice Cream continued success showed a community wowed by the partners’ success.

The following year, a headline read “No finer ice cream obtainable,” next to an article announcing another Edy’s location.

Ironically, their fortune only compounded when misfortune struck.

The Great Depression meant another opportunity for Joseph to give the public what it needed – something to put a smile back on faces everywhere.

While making a batch of chocolate ice cream, Dreyer and Joseph had a revolutionary idea. They would add nuts and marshmallows to the ice cream mix. After experimenting with walnuts, which they felt had a bitter taste, they decided to try almonds.

In ice cream, the almonds would lose their crunch, but toasting them first resulted in a desirable texture. Allegedly using Grace’s sewing shears, the two worked to cut full-size marshmallows into miniatures.

As a nod to the long and difficult time to come, Dreyer and Joseph brought the world Rocky Road ice cream.

The Sweets Barn 11380 US HWY 93 S., Lolo (406) 926-1269

The Sweet Palace 109 E. Broadway St., Philipsburg (406) 859-3353

Pine Mountain Candy 2310 Fairview Ave., Missoula (406) 728-6916

Montana Candy Emporium 7 Broadway Ave., Red Lodge (406) 446-1119

Posh Chocolat 111 N. Higgins Ave., Missoula (406) 543-2566

The Montana Chocolate Company 755 Main St., Stevensville (406) 777-0808

Candyma’am Candies 418 N. Grove St., Thompson Falls (406) 210-2521 Rustic Candy Shop 33 N. Canyon St., West Yellowstone (406) 646-7538 Copperleaf Chocolat Co 239 Central Ave., Whitefish (406) 862-9659

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88 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

The Edy’s legacy

The Great Depression came and went, and Edy’s Grand Ice Cream continued to thrive despite a coming shift in ownership.

After nearly 40 years operating candy stores, Joseph began to share his vision with loyal employees and partners.

In 1945, the sale of four Edy’s Character Candies locations “to a partnership of six employees of the firm” was announced in the Oakland Tribune.

Joseph wanted to recognize long-term employees and compensate them for years of service.

He stayed in a management role at the locations and continued operation of his factory in Oakland.

Two years later, Joseph dissolved his partnership with Dreyer to focus solely on his candy stores and the relationships with his family, friends and community. Dreyer built a state-of-theart ice cream plant in Oakland, renaming the product to Dreyer’s Grand Ice Cream, while Joseph returned to Billings for lunch at Pictured here is one of many Edy’s the Northern Hotel with the peo- Character Candies stores located in ple who supported his confec- the San Francisco Bay area. Though no Edy’s stores operate today, this tionery dreams at the start. Back Oakland Edy’s was photographed in in Oakland, Joseph made huge the 1950s. COURTESY PHOTO donations of candy to the community – 3,000 colored marshmallow eggs were a regular gift to Children’s Fairyland on Easter Sunday.

When Joseph died on March 11, 1964, those he left behind remembered him for his vision and generosity.

His obituary reflected on “the energy and integrity of the man who had the foresight to see the potential of the East Bay in 1925 when he formed his first candy confection for the edification of the children he loved so deeply.”

Shortly after his death, the 12 Edy’s Character Candies stores closed their doors.

Though the man behind the dream was gone, his legacy lived on.

Just before Joseph’s passing, the ownership of Dreyer’s Grand Ice Cream changed hands. The Dreyer family gave the reins to new president, Ken Cook, the next in a long line of visionaries seeing potential for the ice cream company to grow nationwide.

When Cook sold the business a decade later, it was worth $1 million. William Cronk and T. Gary Rogers took the brand eastward during the course of 30 years. And when Nestle bought the company in 2002, they paid an impressive $3.2 billion, making them the largest ice cream maker in the nation.

To avoid confusion with competing brand Breyers Ice Cream, the Edy’s Grand Ice Cream name was readopted for eastern and Midwestern states, while Dreyer’s remains the moniker for those west of the Rocky Mountains and Texas.

While the Edy’s name lives on across the nation, its Magic City roots have long since been forgotten. But as visitors and residents stroll the streets of downtown this summer, ice cream flavor of their choice in hand, they walk in the footsteps of those a century ago who enjoyed the sweet treats of Billings, too.

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MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 89

TROVES OF

A DAY’S DRIVE AWAY

BY BRIE RIPLEY Perfect your work-life balance amid a trove of precious public land.

Whether you want to explore ancient human history 10 minutes from downtown, drive 45 minutes further to honor lives lost in centuries-old conflict or trek north to see a national monument – these protected places within a day’s drive from Billings are rich with opportunity to get lost.

The Strawberry Hill Recreation Area is 4,248 acres of terracotta-colored badlands brimming with scenic views and hidden caves.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FORREST THEISEN/ MONTANA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 91

LARRY MAYER, GAZETTE STAFF

More than just scenery, Montana’s three national monuments – the Little Bighorn Battlefield, Pompeys Pillar and the Upper Missouri River Breaks – are places that evoke particular chapters in the history of our state and country.

They are where we go to physically connect with that history and engage in the cultural and outdoor heritage these places embody. That’s why it’s so important to protect them as national monuments, so they’ll remain as they are and continue providing us with a sense of where we come from and who we are as Native Americans, as European Americans, as Montanans.”

- John Todd, Conservation Director, Montana Wilderness Association

The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) about 250 miles northeast of Billings, features some of the most desirable big game hunting on public lands in North America.

The Corps of Discovery members, including Meriwether Lewis and William Clark paddled up the Missouri River in 1805 in search of a navigable water route to the Pacific Ocean, according to the BLM. A 149-mile stretch of the Missouri River – designated a Wild and Scenic River – carved “The Breaks.” The extensively eroded rock outcroppings and bluffs form a natural, western

boundary to the monument and Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge forms a boundary to the east.

It was given national monument designation under the Clinton administration in 2001.

OPEN: Year-round, 24 hours a day TRAVEL TIME: About five hours DIRECTIONS: Take US 87 north to MT 19 north. Continue onto US 191 north then hang a left on MT 66 north. Turn left onto Pine Ridge Road/Route 127 and continue onto Hays Road. Take a slight left onto Timber Ridge Road, another left on Cow Island Trail and a final left onto Lloyd Road. Continue straight onto Ervine Ridge Road until

GAZETTE STAFF

Pompeys Pillar National Monument is a giant sandstone pillar overlooking Yellowstone Valley about 45 minutes away from downtown Billings. The volunteer historical and restorative association, Friends of Pompeys Pillar, describes its importance: Captain William Clark carved his name on the rock and dated it 1806 – offering a rare bit of evidence of the Corps of Discovery expedition.

OPEN: May through September, daylight hours TRAVEL TIME: About 30 minutes DIRECTIONS: From Billings head east on Interstate 90. Take Exit 23 and turn left on Fly Creek Road. Turn right at the first cross street to Custer Frontage Road, then right again on Cane Street. Turn left on the first cross street to Second Street South.

TO DO: Climb to the top of the pillar, check out William Clark’s signature, wander through the volunteer-run visitor center or take a walk in the cottonwood galleries — a term for where cottonwood trees grow wildly, forming natural, sun-shielding pathways — down to the banks of the Yellowstone River.

you reach the monument.

TO DO: On your way to the monument, picnic at Ackley Lake State Park and gaze at the reflection of the surrounding Little Belt Mountains atop the crystalline waters. Poke around a recommended wilderness area called “The Snowies,” a gorgeous splay of rolling fertile fields captured in paintings by legendary Western artist Charlie Russell more than 100 years ago.

Explore Fort Benton on top of the Upper Missouri River Breaks and check out the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge.

National Historic Landmarks are places designated by the Secretary of the Interior to wield exceptional value in illustrating the heritage of the U.S.

Progressive Jeanette Rankin rose to prominence as the first woman elected to the U.S. House of Representatives, 1917 to 1919, and for her vote against entering World War I, according to the Montana Historical Society. She was elected to Congress a second time, 1941 to 1943; her vote was the only one opposing involvement in World War II. From 1923 to 1965, Rankin maintained a residence most summers on a cattle ranch. The site was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1976.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours TRAVEL TIME: About five hours DIRECTIONS: The Rankin Ranch is located between MT 284 and Helena National Forest, southwest of the Big Belt Mountains.

Follow MT 3 north and US 12 west to MT 294 west in Meagher County. Turn left onto MT 294 west.

Take US 12 west to MT 284 in Broadwater County.

Continue on MT 284 and take Magpie Gulch Road to Avalanche Gulch Road.

TO DO: The Independent Record describes the historic Rankin Ranch home as a simple frame house, graced by four porches. It sits in a picturesque setting at the foot of the Big Belt Mountains, a few hundred feet south of the entrance to Avalanche Gulch. Explore the 90-acre ranch and reflect on the contributions of stalwart Jeanette Rankin.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FORREST THEISEN/MONTANA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION

Castle Butte is off the beaten path, roughly 15 miles north of Pompeys Pillar. The Billings Gazette describes the site as harboring “expansive views of the Pryor Mountains to the southwest, Steamboat Butte to the west, the Bull Mountains northward and brown undulating plains to the east.” Dotted by ponderosa pine, the butte rises from a prairie of scrub grass and sage.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours

The thick bands of sandstone were “likely laid by large rivers and deltas carrying silt from mountains to the west to an inland sea to the east roughly 65 million years ago,” according to The Billings Gazette.

TO DO: Find a route to the top and enjoy exceptional views — including the distant Beartooth Mountains to the west, Pryor Mountains to the south, and Bull Mountains to the north. Expect to see petroglyphs, wildflowers and ancient rock formations.

TRAVEL TIME: About 20 minutes DIRECTIONS: To get to Castle Butte, Exit I-94 at Pompeys Pillar and head west to the monument along the Yellowstone River. Cross the river on Bundy Bridge Road and continue north, well after it turns from pavement to gravel.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 93

Recreation Areas are not much different characteristically from state parks, according to the Montana Wilderness Association. The first national recreation area was a partnership between the Park Service and BLM.

The BLM explains that the unincorporated town of Acton, a farming and ranching community about 18 miles northwest of Billings, began as a stop on the Great Northern Railway’s Billings branch line at the turn of the 19th century. Amid sandstone bluffs, steep drainages and a scattered Ponderosa forest is more than 3,800 acres of diverse landscape to explore within the recreation area by foot or by bike. Part of the Hoskins Basin Archaeological district, the BLM says that the conical wooden dwellings throughout this one-of-a-kind piece of countryside protect aboriginal dwellings.

OPEN: Year-round, 24 hours a day TRAVEL TIME: Less than 30 minutes DIRECTIONS: Between mile markers 18 and 19 on SR 3 north of the town of Acton, turn right (east) onto Oswald Road.

Go 6.5 miles to Heag Road and turn right again. The parking lot is about 2.5 miles from there.

TO DO: Nearly 7 miles of roads within Acton Recreation Area are designated for motorized use.

Hop on a four-wheeler or grab your bike to explore winding trails that weave through distinctive cribbed dwellings of eroded shale and minor badlands.

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Boasting prairie environments, eroded shale and falcon nesting sites, Four Dances is a 765-acre area of undeveloped park located on the eastern edge of Billings named after Crow Chief Four Dances. The Yellowstone River runs through of the recreation area’s lower level while the topside offers stunning views of downtown Billings.

Be sure to check out the cabin of Will James, a noteworthy “cattle rustler,” who lived within the area (1892-1942).

Nearby a quarter-mile footpath brings you to the Yellowstone River’s edge down below and various hiking loops lead to stunning views of downtown Billings at the top.

DIRECTIONS: From I-90 using the MT 87 off-ramp, turn right immediately on Coburn Road and follow the road south approximately 1.5 miles (entrance sign on the right).

OPEN: Year-round, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.

TRAVEL TIME: About 10 minutes CASEY PAGE, GAZETTE STAFF‌

TO DO: A 2.6-mile trail loop is great for walking or running your way through sagebrush, grassland and rocky, eroded terrain beaming with a diversity of wildlife.

Montana Wilderness Association describes the 4,248-acre area as terracottacolored badlands interspersed with ponderosa pine and sagebrush. The area offers hiking, expansive views of Yellowstone Valley and top-notch wildlife viewing.

OPEN: Year-round, 24 hours a day TRAVEL TIME: About two and a half hours DIRECTIONS: Get on I-90 east in Lockwood from First Avenue North. Follow I-94 east to US 12 east in Custer County. Take Exit 141 from I-94 east. Turn right onto MT Hwy 12. Signage for Strawberry Hill Recreation Area will be toward the 12-mile marker on US 12.

TO DO: Hike or climb your way to scenic viewing points and take in the expansive views of Yellowstone Valley, or drop deep in a cooley and peruse the area’s hidden caves. Pack a sandwich or stop by the Miles City Farmers’ Market on your way in. They’re open every Saturday from 8 a.m. to noon through the second Saturday in October at Riverside Park.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FORREST THEISEN/MONTANA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION

Adjacent to Custer National Forest and reaching the border of Montana and Wyoming, this range of limestone peaks and mesas was named after Sergeant Nathaniel Pryor of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The Pryors also border the Crow Indian Reservation; the Crow know the area as “Arrow Mountains,” a sacred place and source of spiritual renewal.

The Nixon administration established the “Pryor Mountain National Wild Horse Range” in 1968 to protect the herd of mustangs that roam throughout the area, according to the Montana Wilderness Association.

OPEN: Year-round, 24 hours a day TRAVEL TIME: About two hours DIRECTIONS: Take US 310 south from Bridger, Montana. Pryor Mountain Road turns left (east) 2.5 miles south of Bridger and a half-mile south of the bridge over the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. This junction is 1.4 miles south of the junction of highways 310 and 72 from Belfry and Red Lodge.

Turn just north of the house on the east side of the highway.

TO DO: Observe one of the only protected wild horse ranges in the U.S. and explore limestone caves, peaks and colorful mesas. Visit Burnt Timber Canyon, contiguous with the Pryor Mountains, known for its wild horse ranges.

Explore Lost Water Canyon, an annex of Crooked Creek to explore secluded and spectacular ice caves.

Montana Wilderness Association says prehistoric history reveals itself throughout Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area.

Exposed fossils in layers of sedimentary rock form the canyon walls that encompass the area.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours TRAVEL TIME: 1 hour, 45 minutes

PHOTO COURTESY OF FORREST THEISEN/MONTANA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION

DIRECTIONS: Head east on I-90 from Billings. Take Exit 456 toward Sheridan. Continue for 27 miles and take Exit 484, turning right onto Old US 87 South. Take another right on North Mitchell Avenue at Hardin and continue to CR 156, continuing on MT 313 at Saint Xavier, ending at the recreation area at Fort Smith.

TO DO: Visit the Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center to get your bearings through geographic, historical and cultural exhibits, including an onsite theater.

Watch for wild horses and views of the meandering canyon as you ascend through rocky ridgelines punctuated by sagebrush.

Find the longest cave in the state, Bighorn Cave, and explore 14 miles of mineral-rich crystal formations.

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MONTANA

After a nomadic life filled with perpetual conflict, violence and war, Chief Plenty Coups became one of the first to embrace a new way of life pressured by white explorers.

Chief Plenty Coups settled down in 1884 and built a house amid fertile farmland just 20 minutes outside of Billings, according to Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks. Upon his death in 1932, the Apsáalooke people voted to designate him as their last traditional tribal chief.

His log cabin, located on 195 acres, was made into a public park in 1965.

The park was listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 1970 and became a National Historic Landmark in 1999.

BILLINGS GAZETTE‌

OPEN: Park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Visitor’s Center and Chief’s House open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. until Sept.17.

TRAVEL TIME: About 45 minutes DIRECTIONS: Take Blue Creek Road/ State Secondary Hwy 416 and State Secondary Hwy 418 to Edgar Road/ Pryor Road in Pryor.

TO DO: Discover the Apsáalooke people’s last traditional tribal chief with an informative visitor’s center and a halfmile walk of the grounds.

Celebrate Chief Plenty Coups Day of Honor the first weekend in September, an annual celebration that features speakers, drummers, dancers, tours, a buffalo feast and more.

Perfectly suited for year-round recreation, Montana State Parks describes Cooney as offering a plethora of year-round recreational opportunities. From paddle boarding, hiking, walleye and rainbow trout fishing in the warmth of summer to snowshoeing, ice-skating and ice fishing in the winter.

GAZETTE STAFF

OPEN: Year-round, 24 hours a day About a 10-minute drive from downtown Billings, 23-acre Pictograph Cave State Park is a cavernous cornucopia of prehistorical significance. Montana State Parks describes the caves as having once been home to prehistoric hunters who left behind more than 100 pictographs, also known as rock paintings; the oldest of which is estimated to be more than 2,000 years old. The first recorded discovery of the pictographs was made in 1936, and the park was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1964 because of its archeological significance.

OPEN: Daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; visitor center is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. until Sept. 17 TRAVEL TIME: About 10 minutes DIRECTIONS: Pictograph Cave State Park is located southwest of Billings and can be accessed via Exit 452 (Lockwood) on I-90, then 6 miles south on Coburn Road.

TO DO: Discover the musings of prehistoric humans within the three main caves – Pictograph, Middle and Ghost. Check out the visitor center’s interpretive displays which boast some of the 30,000 artifacts excavated from the site.

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TRAVEL TIME: About 40 minutes DIRECTIONS: Get on I-90 west from First Avenue North, Montana Avenue and I-90BL west. Take US 212 west to Boyd Cooney Dam Road in Boyd. Continue on Boyd Cooney Dam Road. Drive to Lake Shore Road.

TO DO: Spend a morning out on the water exploring by boat, fish the abundant walleye and rainbow trout, camp out with a book in one of the 82 campsites for the day, or pitch a tent overnight.

Hikers can see bald eagles, mule and whitetail deer and a variety of varmints.

Considered the most urban state park in Montana by park manager Terri Waters, The Billings Gazette reports this 64-acre freshwater lake was named after Elmo McCracken. Alongside his wife Miriam, McCracken became the owner of the lake’s north shore in the 1920s. Its 1.3 miles of cerulean shoreline is shallow — only 16-feet at its deepest.

Pets are welcome in the small dog park and allowed off-leash into the water.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours TRAVEL TIME: Less than 10 minutes DIRECTIONS: From Fourth Avenue North in downtown Billings, turn left onto US 87 N/Hwy 312/ Main Street, then hang a left on Lake Elmo Drive.

TO DO: Picnic, canoe or choose your very own swathe of sandy shore to sunbathe on from more than a mile of shoreline.

The largest park in Montana at 11,538 acres, Montana State Parks explains “Makoshika” is derived from two Lakota words translating to “bad land.” Don’t let the name fool you – there’s nothing bad about Makoshika’s rocky terrain, which offers abundant camping and hiking opportunities fit for gentle and rebel hearts alike.

Once known as “Doeden Island,” Montana State Parks says Capt. William Clark and his party camped here in 1806 on their return trip down the Yellowstone River. This isolated, cottonwood-covered Yellowstone River island offers a remote opportunity to observe wildlife such as waterfowl, bald eagles, fox squirrels, whitetail and mule deer.

The state acquired the site in 1982 and renamed it after the pirogue boats used by the expedition.

Designated a state park in 1953, Makoshika protects 20 percent of Montana’s contiguous badlands topography.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours

OPEN: Year-round, 24 hours a day TRAVEL TIME: About four hours

TRAVEL TIME: About two hours PHOTO COURTESY OF FORREST THEISEN/MONTANA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION

DIRECTIONS: Located a quarter mile southeast of Glendive. Take I-94 Glendive exits and follow signs two to three miles through town to the park. Makoshika is adjacent to the southeast city limits.

TO DO: Hike, walk or bike along ancient dinosaur

trails through immense terrain. The park offers a visitor center, grills and fire rings, interpretive displays, an archery range and a Frisbee golf course. Explore the nearby Terry Badlands Wilderness Study Areas managed by the Montana Wilderness Association for more variety in wildlife and sightseeing.

Named for its enormous community of protected, black-tailed prairie dogs, Montana State Parks describes 98-acre Greycliff Prairie Dog Town as rolling prairie lands full of yucca, sage grass, and chokecherry bushes.

More than 100 vertebrates, including swift foxes and burrowing owls, make homes throughout the park. The Crazy Mountains form a backdrop, inviting visitors to experience a unique scenic opportunity within one of the state’s more offbeat recreational areas.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours TRAVEL TIME: A little more than an hour DIRECTIONS: Get on I-90 west from First Avenue North, Montana Avenue and I-90BL west. Follow I-90 west to Sweet Grass County. Take Exit 377 from I-90 west. Turn left on Greycliff Road.

TO DO: Check out the rodent inhabitants and snap pictures of their baby pups as they interact within a natural setting that protects and preserves their livelihood — don’t forget your binoculars. Interpretive displays offer visitors the chance to learn about prairie dog ecology. Just 12 miles away, the Gallatin River is a great next stop to cool off after a warm day observing the cute varmints.

LARRY MAYER PHOTOS, GAZETTE STAFF

DIRECTIONS: Get on I-90 east. Follow I-90 east and US 212 east to CR 314 in Busby.

Continue on CR 314 until you reach the park.

TO DO: Envision the Corps of Discovery’s travel along the river and hunt for moss agates, per Montana State Park’s suggestion.

There are 2.8 miles of designated hiking trails, but the site is level and the entire 269 acres are easily walkable.

By using piles of rock to funnel stampeding herds, Montana State Parks says Native tribes stampeded enormous numbers of buffalo off this massive semicircular cliff. The layers of bones that line the cliff’s base are evidence of generations of use, from 2,000 years ago to as recently as 200 years ago.

Although the introduction of horses led to the abandonment of this jump sometime after 1700, the rugged outcropping now serves as an inspiring monument to the region’s early inhabitants.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours TRAVEL TIME: Two and a half hours DIRECTIONS: Located 23 miles west of Bozeman on 1-90 at Logan Exit, then seven miles south on Buffalo Jump Road.

TO DO: Hike along massive weathered sandstone formations where Native American hunting parties once gathered. The park encloses all the main geographical features of a jump site, and several formations remain to provide visitors with a glimpse of the cultures which utilized this method of hunting. Archaeologists have located the tepee rings of an extensive village.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 97

PHOTO COURTESY OF FORREST THEISEN/MONTANA WILDERNESS ASSOCIATION

The 12-mile-long reservoir is the perfect weekend destination for water lovers. There are 642 acres of opportunity to celebrate robust recreation activities from hiking and climbing to boating, fishing and swimming. Anglers will enjoy excellent bass, crappie, walleye and northern pike fishing. The site also has a weather-dependent fish cleaning station between April 1 and Sept. 30 and a liquid propane gas refill.

OPEN: Year-round, daylight hours TRAVEL TIME: About two hours DIRECTIONS: Get on I-90 east in Lockwood from First Avenue North and I-90BL east. Follow I-90 east to State Hwy 339 in Sheridan County. Take Exit 16 from I-90 east. Take WY 338 N./ Decker Road and MT 314 to your destination in Big Horn County.

TO THE PARK: Get on I-90 east.

Follow I-90 east and US 212 east to CR 314 in Busby. Continue on

CR 314 to the park.

TO THE PRIME FISHING AREA: Twelve Mile Dam is located 12 miles south of Miles City on Highway 59, then drive one mile south on the Tongue River Road, Highway 332.

TO DO: Go for a hike along the

Tongue River Breaks hiking and riding area to discover a place rich with coniferous forests and prairie meadows sacred to the Northern Cheyenne. Have a picnic at Poker Jim Butte, a fire lookout fit for savoring a brilliant sunset. Boating and other water sports are favored here.

Forged in the heart of Big Sky Country by a dam built in 1938, The Billings Gazette describes Ackley Lake as a reservoir that, for decades, irrigated more than 1,600 acres of nearby farmland. The park covers 290 acres and offers 15 campsites.

OPEN: Year-round, 24 hours a day TRAVEL TIME: About two and a half hours DIRECTIONS: Follow MT 3 north to US 12 west. Then take US 191 north to MT 239 in Judith Basin County.

From there, turn left onto US 87 north. Follow MT 400 until you see signs for Ackley Lake State Park.

TO DO: Montana State Parks suggests that this park’s abundant water recreation opportunities, like boating and swimming, are best enjoyed as a cool-down method on a hot summer’s day. Stocked with rainbow trout, anglers can expect to catch fish between 10 and 15 inches.

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98 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

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International Spy Gala

Billings Symphony Orchestra 1] Robin & Mayor Tom Hanel

After 5-Unplugged, April 6

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Yellowstone Art Museum 2] Julie, LilyAnn, Grace & Joe McGinnis 3] Leslie Modrow & Jody Anderson 4] Carson Smith & Cassie Rickey 5] Natalie Myers & Sam French 6] Paula Meeker & Denny Yonts 7] Stan Parker & Tucker Roundy 8] Tani McKeever & Sabrina Hiscock 9] Tasha Rocha & Becca Hall

Spring ArtWalk

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Yellowstone Art Museum 10] Byron & Aimee LaRue, Kit Seaton, Kim LaRue, Grant Fagg & Claudia Milligan 11] Francesca Roberto, Ryan, Ava & Anna Kabeary & Wendy Jam 12] David and Caitlin Cromwell & Grant Jones 13] Jim Baken & Neil Jussila

After5-Unplugged, May

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Yellowstone Art Museum 14] Brontë Wittpenn, Mel Barbour, Molly Schiltz, Natasha Potratz, Mike Schaer, Lisa Harmon & Amanda Lechner 15] Christina Clement & Amber Lowry 16] Jacklyn Bushman, Karsyn Hornby, Danielle Babcock & Ethan Albrecht 17] Lisa Harmon & Rebecca Flores 18] Susie & Greg Kemmis 19] Trish Vanderbeck & Cyndi Butler

Photos courtesy of Sandy Cantesano/Billings Symphony Orchestra; Dixie Yelvington/Yellowstone Art Museum.

MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 99

Enhance your natural beauty

July Summer Stunner Special Purchase 2 full-face Micro Needling treatments and receive the 3rd for 50% off Juvederm Special $50 off treatment

August Hair Removal Package Underarm laser hair removal package All 6 treatments ONLY $400 Voluma Special $50 off treatment

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September Lift & Tighten Special 15% off any Ultherapy treatment of your choice Sculptra Special $50 off 100 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

To schedule a consultation, please call (406) 657-4653 or visit billingsclinic.com/facialplastics

Great American Pro Championship Motorcycle Hill Climb Billings Motorcycle Club | July 28-29 Start your engines and get ready for the extreme motorcycling event of the season. In its 99th year, the Great American Pro Championship Motorcycle Hill Climb attracts hundreds of regional spectators to the South Hills Billings Motorcycle Club grounds to watch as professional motorcycle athletes compete to conquer the vertical climb. Details for this two-day event are online at bmcmontana.com.

JULY Until August 17 Food Truck Thursdays Moss Mansion mossmansion.com Until August 31 Thursdays Alive After 5 Various locations downtownbillings.com Until October 5 Thursdays Healthy by Design Gardeners’ Market South Park hbdyc.org

Until October 7 Saturdays Yellowstone Valley Farmers’ Market Downtown Billings yvfm.org July 21 Hoof-it with a Historian: The Southsiders South Side Senior Center billingswalkingtours.org Music Night with Erin Bent Yellowstone Cellars & Winery yellowstonecellars.com Bat Night Hike Montana Audubon Center mtaudubon.org July 22-23 EMAHC Horse Show & Clinic SuperBarn metrapark.com

July 22 Drag Races Yellowstone Drag Strip yellowstonedragstrip.com

July 23 Drag Races Yellowstone Drag Strip yellowstonedragstrip.com

St. John’s Summer Concert Series: The MidLyfe Chryslers Fred & Marie Miller Pavilion sjlmevents.org

Cornhole for a Cause: Eagle Mount Fundraiser Thirsty Street Brewing Company eaglemount.us

Ying Yang Twins in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com

July 28-29 Great American Pro Championship Motorcycle Hill Climb Billings Motorcycle Club bmcmontana.com

Elk River Reunion Festival Cove Creek Outdoor Pavilion linecampproductions.com Music Night with Jeremy Hanson Yellowstone Cellars & Winery yellowstonecellars.com Saturday Morning Bird Stroll Montana Audubon Center mtaudubon.org

July 27 Jim Gaffigan: Noble Ape Tour Rimrock Auto Arena at MetraPark metrapark.com Open Studio: The Shape of Music Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org Modernist Intersections Opening Reception Exhibition is ongoing Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org

Big Sky International Balloon Rendezvous Pierce RV Supercenter bigskyballoonrally.com July 28 Hoof-it with a Historian: Yellowstone Kelly’s Final Resting Place Swords Park billingswalkingtours.org

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Yellowstone Valley Bellydance Festival Alberta Bair Theater Aug. 19 Various cultural styles, music genres and costumes combine during a night of family-friendly entertainment at the 10th annual Yellowstone Valley Bellydance Festival’s Gala Showcase. Clap, cheer and zagareet as regional dancers and famed headliners, Silvia Salamanca and Moria Chappell, showcase traditional and fusion bellydance performances.

Tickets are available at albertabairtheater.com.

July 30 Billings Mustangs baseball Dehler Park billingsmustangs.com

AUGUST‌ Aug. 2 National Coloring Book Day Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org Aug. 3-5 Magic City Blues Fest Downtown Billings magiccityblues.com Aug. 3-9 Billings Mustangs baseball Dehler Park billingsmustangs.com

Aug. 3 Pizza Ranch Fundraiser Night for Eagle Mount Pizza Ranch eaglemount.us St. John’s Summer Concert Series: Victor Wainwright & the Wildroots Fred & Marie Miller Pavilion sjlmevents.org In This Moment in concert Shrine Auditorium 1111presents.com Aug. 4 Hoof-it with a Historian: Hidden in Plain Sight Western Heritage Center billingswalkingstours.org

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Summer ArtWalk Downtown Billings artwalkbillings.com Aug. 5-6 Drag Races Yellowstone Drag Strip yellowstonedragstrip.com Aug. 5 First Saturday $1 Day Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org Aug. 7-11 American Girl Doll Camp Moss Mansion mossmansion.com Aug. 8 Michael Jackson HIStory Show Alberta Bair Theater albertabairtheater.org

Aug. 9 The Head and the Heart in concert Alberta Bair Theater albertabairtheater.org The Wailers in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com Aug. 10 Elks Summer Social Dances Elk’s Lodge thebeatballroom.com Aug. 11-19 MontanaFair MetraPark metrapark.com

Aug. 11 Pat Benatar & Neil Giraldo and Melissa Etheridge in concert Rimrock Auto Arena at MetraPark metrapark.com Hoof-it with a Historian: Bars, Brothels and Bok Choy: Exploring Minnesota Avenue Western Heritage Center billingswalkingtours.org Firefly Outdoor Movies in the Park Pioneer Park fireflymovieco.com Lit in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com

Happy Caddy Cup Golf Tournament Lake Hills Golf Course Sept. 15 Get in a few more summer golf swings at the 12th annual Happy Caddy Cup fundraiser.

Teams hit the green for a fun tournament and a good cause, with proceeds benefitting Eagle Mount Billings. A high noon shotgun start kicks off the event, concluding with an awards ceremony and meal. Visit eaglemountbillings.us to register and learn about sponsorship opportunities.

Aaron Watson in concert Babcock Theatre 1111presents.com

Saturday Morning Bird Stroll Montana Audubon Center mtaudubon.org

Billings Kiwanis Movies under the Stars Will James Middle School billings-mt.kiwanisone.org Bat Night Hike Montana Audubon Center mtaudubon.org Aug. 12 Paramore in concert Rimrock Auto Arena at MetraPark metrapark.com Trunks & Treasures Tour Moss Mansion mossmansion.com

Aug. 14 HELLYEAH in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com

Aug. 18-21 Billings Mustangs baseball Dehler Park billingsmustangs.com

Aug. 20 Reckless Kelly in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com

Aug. 13 Bill Engvall with Gary Brightwell in concert Rimrock Auto Arena at MetraPark metrapark.com

Aug. 15 Supercross MetraPark grandstands metrapark.com

Aug. 18 Zoofari with Steve Earle & The Dukes ZooMontana 1111presents.com

Wild, Edible Montana Montana Audubon Center mtaudubon.org

Pasta and Sauces Class Local Kitchen & Bar localbillings.com

Aug. 17-19 Yellowstone River Roundup PRCA Rodeo MetraPark grandstands metrapark.com

Aug. 14-18 Hoof-it with a Historian: Walking Tour of MetraPark and County Fairgrounds MetraPark fairgrounds gate billingswalkingtours.org

Aug. 17 High Noon Lecture Series: Sidesaddles and Geyers: Women’s Adventures in Early Yellowstone Western Heritage Center ywhc.org

Aug. 19-20 Drag Races Yellowstone Drag Strip yellowstonedragstrip.com Aug. 19 Yellowstone Valley Bellydance Festival Alberta Bair Theater albertabairtheater.org

Aug. 24-26 Summer Christmas Shrine Auditorium billings365.com Aug. 24 My Hero opening reception Exhibition is ongoing Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org Aug. 25-26 Drag Races Yellowstone Drag Strip yellowstonedragstrip.com

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Aug. 25-28 Billings Mustangs baseball Dehler Park billingsmustangs.com

Aug. 26 Beat the Heat 5K ZooMontana runsignup.com

Aug. 25 Hoof-it with a Historian: The Southsiders South Side Senior Center billingswalkingtours.org

Billings Clinic Classic Alberta Bair Theater albertabairtheater.org Saturday Morning Bird Stroll Montana Audubon Center mtaudubon.org

Firefly Outdoor Movies in the Parks Castle Rock Park fireflymovieco.com

Aug. 27 Nickelback: Feed the Machine Tour Rimrock Auto Arena at MetraPark metrapark.com

Billings Kiwanis Movies under the Stars ZooMontana billings-mt.kiwanisone.org

Aug. 30 Minus the Bear in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com

SEPTEMBER‌ Sept. 1 Hoof-it with a Historian: The Railroad Shapes Our Town Western Heritage Center billingwalkingtours.org Sept. 2-3 Drag Races Yellowstone Drag Strip yellowstonedragstrip.com Sept. 2 First Saturday $1 Day Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org

Sept. 5 Conor Oberst in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com Sept. 6-9 Billings Mustangs baseball Dehler Park billingsmustangs.com Sept. 6 Bonnie Raitt in concert Alberta Bair Theater albertabairtheater.org

Sept. 8-10 Gun Show Montana Pavilion at MetraPark metrapark.com Fall Home Improvement Show Expo Center at MetraPark billingshomeimprovementshow. com

Zomboy in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com

Sept. 8 Hoof-it with a Historian: The Writing on the Wall: Historic Advertising (Ghost Signs) in Downtown Billings Western Heritage Center billingswalkingtours.org

Sept. 7 Party for Preservation Moss Mansion mossmansion.com

Sept. 9 Trunks & Treasures Tour Moss Mansion mossmansion.com

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104 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

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Sept. 10 50’s Homemaker Class Local Kitchen & Bar localbillings.com Sol Seed and Yellowstoned in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com Sept. 15 Hoof-it with a Historian: Yellowstone Kelly’s Final Resting Place Swords Park billingswalkingtours.org Happy Caddy Cup Golf Tournament Lake Hills Golf Course eaglemount.us

Sept. 16-17 Spay & Neuter Clinic Montana Pavilion at MetraPark yvas.org

Sept. 21-22 Making Infused Vodka and Gin MSU Billings msubillings.edu

Sept. 16-18 Drag Races Yellowstone Drag Strip yellowstonedragstrip.com

Sept. 21 High Noon Lecture Series: What Can Food Tell Us About Montana History?

Western Heritage Center ywhc.org

Sept. 17 Montana Marathon Various locations montanamarathon.org Bridal Fair 2017 Yellowstone Art Museum artmuseum.org Mysterious Macroinvertebrates Montana Audubon Center mtaudubon.org

Sept. 22 Hoof-it with a Historian: Hidden in Plain Sight Western Heritage Center billingswalkingtours.org Sept. 23 Back Alley Brats Roller Derby Montana Pavilion at MetraPark metrapark.com

Sept. 24 Fall Hill Climb Billings Motorcycle Club bmcmontana.com Sept. 26 RiverStone Health Vaccine Clinic Montana Pavilion at MetraPark riverstonehealth.org Sept. 27 Explosions in the Sky in concert Pub Station 1111presents.com Sept. 28 Wild Kratts Live in concert Alberta Bair Theater albertabairtheater.org

Sept. 29 Hoof-it with a Historian: Grave Side Stories: A Stroll through Mountview Cemetery Western Heritage Center billingswalkingtours.org Kristin Korb Trio in concert Alberta Bair Theater albertabairtheater.org

OCTOBER Oct. 3 Creating Barrel Aged Cocktails MSU Billings msubillings.edu

Coming soon fall 2017

Mark your calendars September 16th-17th, 23rd-24th, 2017 Home Builders Association of Billings • www.hbabillings.net • 406-252-7533 MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 105

BUT NOT LEAST

DIY MOSAIC BIRDBATH

BY TIFFINI GALLANT | PHOTO BY LARRY MAYER‌ Materials:‌ 4 - 4-inch terra cotta pots 1 - 12-inch terra cotta saucer 10 DVDs

1 can spray paint in color of choice 1 can clear gloss spray paint scissors

Instructions:‌

1. Using scissors, cut DVDs in half and separate layers to expose iridescent film.

2. Break or cut iridescent layers into small pieces for mosaic.

3. Lay pieces out in a single layer on a prepared work space, iridescent side up.

4. Spray clear gloss spray paint evenly across all pieces. Waiting five minutes between applications, apply two to three coats of gloss.

5. Turn pots and saucer upside-down on prepared work space.

6. Apply colored spray paint in an even coat on each terra cotta piece. Waiting three minutes between applications, spray two to three coats of gloss. Let dry for 20 minutes until dry to the touch.

7. Using waterproof adhesive, adhere the pots together gluing two sets of two pots end to end and then gluing the sets together rim to rim.

8. Wipe away excess glue from around the seams and touch up spray paint, as needed. Let dry for 24 hours.

9. Turn painted saucer over to expose the inside. Using adhesive, glue iridescent pieces on the interior of the saucer. You can be really creative here and glue pieces into a pattern, if desired. We glued largest pieces first throughout and then filled gaps with smaller pieces. Let dry for 24 hours.

10. Using a spatula, apply pre-mixed grout to the spaces between mosaic pieces. Wipe excess grout away with a dry cloth. Let dry for 24 hours.

11. Using waterproof adhesive, glue the saucer to the rim of the connected pot base. Let dry for 24 hours.

12. Place finished birdbath in your garden, fill with water and enjoy!

106 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

pre-mixed grout spatula waterproof adhesive

We learned the hard way:‌ CDs are not ideal for mosaic pieces as they crack and splinter when cut.

When cutting DVDs, pieces may go flying; we recommend cutting them inside of a bag or box.

Adhere to drying times; moving pots before glue has dried results in extra time touching up paint smears and excess glue spillover.

When gluing mosaic pieces into saucer, wipe tip of waterproof adhesive applicator after each use.

Otherwise, there will be strings of glue that end up on the mosaic pieces and doesn’t look as nice.

Terra cotta pots are porous and soak up paint, so applying extra layers of spray paint results in a more even coat.

Wipe grout off the mosaic pieces as applied; if grout is on pieces too long, it may dry and need scraped off.

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MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I 107

CONSIDERING A REMODEL? TAKE THE GUESSWORK OUT OF YOUR KITCHEN RENOVATION

Call us today for a free in-home consultation at 406-651-8109.

108 I AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 I MAGIC CITY MAGAZINE

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