YOUR LOCAL GUIDE FOR THINGS TO DO IN MONTANA
LEE NEWSPAPERS OF MONTANA S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 019
R E D I S C O V E R M T. C O M
MONTANA – ONE LANDSCAPE
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FOR
PEOPLE & WILDLIFE
MONTANA
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License plate image donated from “The Great Bear” painting by Monte Dolack. See the collection at the Monte Dolack Gallery at www.dolack.com.
VITALGROUND.ORG
M
ontana is home to some of North America’s richest and most intact wildlife communities, and Montanans have always prized the open space that allows both people and nature to thrive. Nothing embodies wild Montana like our state animal, the grizzly bear. Vital Ground connects and protects key habitat, ensuring the long-term survival of grizzlies and the many species that share their range.
Show your support for Montana’s wildlife and open space by selecting a Vital Ground specialty license plate the next time you renew your vehicle registration. Put a bear on your car!
“Connecting and conserving One Landscape – for people, grizzly bears, and all things wild!”
THE VITAL GROUND FOUNDATION•20 FORT MISSOULA, MISSOULA, MT• INFO@VITALGROUND.ORG •WWW.VITALGROUND.ORG •406-549-8650
2019 July 12 14 Butte, te, Montana M MONTANAFOLKFESTIVAL.COM
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SPRING/SUMMER 2019 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A 3
Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park Indian reservation
Glacier Country Glacier Glacier
Country Country
Central
Country Central Central Country Country
Southwest Country
Missouri River Missouri Missouri Country River River
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Glacier Country
Southwest Country
Southeast Country
Southwest Southwest Yellowstone CountryCountry Country Southeast Southeast Country Yellowstone Country Yellowstone Country Country
CONTENTS
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Central Country
Yellowstone Country
Missouri River Country
Southeast Country
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AABBA OOU NN T I O N BUTO TIISSTSH T TU THH SEEICS CTTIS IOOEC A B O U T Montana T H I S isSaEpublication CTION Rediscover
Rediscover Montana is a publication Rediscover Montana is — a publication of Lee Newspapers of Montana Rediscover Montana is publication of Leeof Newspapers ofaMontana — Lee Newspapers of Montana — Gazette, Missoulian, ofThe LeeBillings Newspapers ofGazette, Montana — The Billings Gazette, Missoulian, The Billings Missoulian, Montana Standard, Helena Independent Montana Standard, Helena Independent TheMontana Billings Gazette, Missoulian, Helena Independent Record andStandard, Ravalli Republic. Record and Ravalli Republic. Montana Standard, Helena Independent Record and ©2016 Ravalli Republic. rediscovermt.com rediscovermt.com ©2016 ©2018 Record and Ravalli Republic. rediscovermt.com rediscovermt.com ©2016
CCOONNTTRRIIBBUUTTOORRSS C CONTRIBUTORS O NChelsea T R I BDavis UTORS Chelsea Davis Perry Backus Chelsea Davis Vince Devlin Vince Devlin Bethany Baker
Vince Devlin Mike RobFerguson Chaney Mike Ferguson
FFRRFR OOM T H E G O V E R N O R M T H E G O V E R N O F R OOMMTTHHEE GGOOV V EER R N OORRR W TTOO M WEELLCCOOM MEE TO MOONNTA TANNAA WELCOME MONTANA W E L C O M E T O M O N TA N A
Growing up in Montana, I never took Growing up in Montana, I never took for Growing granted the spectacular up in Montana, Iwide neveropen took for granted the spectacular wide open spaces that the make our state wide one of the took for granted spectacular open Growing up in Montana, I never spaces that make our state one of the last truly unspoiled places on Earth. spaces that make our state one ofwide the open for granted the spectacular last truly unspoiled places on Earth. Montana is still a place where you last truly unspoiled places on Earth. spaces that make our state one ofcan the Montana is still a place where you can walk fortruly miles and asee more elk,on bear, Montana is still place where you can last unspoiled places Earth. walk for miles and see more elk, bear, and thanand people. world-class walktrout for miles see more elk, bear, you can Montana still aOur place where and trout thanispeople. Our world-class rivers, majestic mountains, and rolling andwalk trout than people. Our world-class for milesmountains, and see more bear, rivers, majestic andelk, rolling plains are wheremountains, I hunt, fishand androlling hike rivers, andmajestic trout thanIpeople. Our world-class plains are where hunt, fish and hike with my plains arefamily. where I hunt, fish and hike rivers, majestic mountains, and rolling with my family. Wemy hope your travels will give you the with family. We hope your travels willfish giveand youhike the plains are where I hunt, same memories Wespecial hope your travels we willhave give from you the same special memories we have from with my family. growing up here. On behalf of the peosame special memories we have from growing up here. On behalfwill of the peohope your travels you ple ofWe Montana, we togive join us the growing up here. Oninvite behalfyou of the people plesame of Montana, we invite you to joinfrom us special memories we have in “Lastyou BesttoPlace. ” of exploring Montana, the we invite join us ingrowing exploringup the “Last Best Place. ”the peohere. On behalf of in exploring the “Last Best Place.” pleyou of Montana, we invite you to join us See soon, Seeexploring you soon, in See you soon,the “Last Best Place.”
Charity Dewing Mike BrettFerguson French Brett French Erica Doornek
Mike Kordenbrock Brett French Mike Kordenbrock Darrell Ehrlick Kuglin Brett French MikeTom Kordenbrock Tom Kuglin Pat Hansen Marga Lincoln Tom Kuglin Marga Lincoln Amy Joyner
Paula McGarvey Marga Lincoln PaulaKordenbrock McGarvey Michael Tom Kuglin Jaci Webb Paula McGarvey Jaci Webb Tyler Manning
Loren Benoit Jaci Webb Loren Benoit Larry Mayer
Tom SueBauer Olp Tom Bauer Loren Benoit
See you soon,
CaseyBridge Page Thom ThomBauer Bridge Tom Annie Pentilla
Walter Hinick WalterBridge Hinick Thom Thomas Plank Larry Cory Mayer Walsh Larry Mayer Walter Hinick Casey Page CaseyMayer Page Larry Hannah Potes Hannah Potes Casey Page James Woodcock James Woodcock Hannah Potes Bob Zellar Bob Zellar James Woodcock
Bob Zellar 88 RREEDDI ISSCCOOVVEERR MMOONNTA TANNAA SPRING/SUMMER 2019
8 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A
Gov. Steve Bullock Gov. Steve Bullock Bullock
Gov. Steve Bullock
FROM THE COVER Top Photo: A hiker watches sunset over the Bitteroots from Bear Creek Overlook in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. Middle Photo: Fly fishing at the confluence of the Flathead and Spotted Bear Rivers in the Bob Marshall wilderness area during the 2017 fall fires in Montana Bottom Photo: Mountain Goats and Hidden Lake, Glacier National Park, Montana
SPRING/SUMMER SPRING/SUMMER2016 2016 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A 5
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Central Country
Country Southwest Country
Southwest Country Yellowstone Country
Southeast Country
Yellowstone Country
Southeast Country
GLACIER COUNTRY
Where the
WILD THINGS are: REDISCOVER
M O N TA N A
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S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 015
Some can’t miss and don’t missLeeoptions Newspapers of Montana rediscovermt.com
ROB CHANEY rchaney@missoulian.com
T
ROB CHANEY, rchaney@missoulian.com
A tiny pika totes a mouthful of grass to its winter hay pile, hidden in the rocks above the Highline Trail. Its distinctive “Beeej” call is the best way to locate the 5-ounce rodents.
6 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A
ourists often compare Yellowstone National Park to visiting an open-air zoo. But there are other places to see amazing wildlife during a Montana visit. Oddly enough, Glacier National Park isn’t the best of them. The northern park has stunning scenery and lots of wild animals, but its rugged terrain and deep forests keep them well hidden. Areas where grizzly bears come near trails get closed quickly for public safety. Logan Pass Visitor Center area at the midpoint of the Going-tothe-Sun Road, gets regular visits from mountain goats in their white fur coats. Those motorists and bikers who make it to the pass in June will see the goats in seasonal shift, shedding their bulky winter coats for much shorter summer fur. By late September, that hair will have grown back to make the goats’ bodies look much bulkier. Elk and moose also wander into view occasionally in Glacier, but critter-counters would have
better luck looking for smaller species. Hoary marmots frequent many alpine trails, and sometimes share space with the smaller and cuter pika. Listen for a distinctive “beeejj” call in talus fields, where you might spot them ferrying mouthfuls of grass to stockpile in burrows for winter food supplies. Very lucky observers might find a few of Glacier’s mustelids: members of the weasel family. These include river otters, martens, mink, long-tailed, shorttailed and least weasels, and the extremely rare king of mustelids — the wolverine. Both black and grizzly bears frequent the same trails and meadows that tourists enjoy, and both omnivores require wide safety margins. All visitors, whether in developed areas or deep backcountry, must keep close watch on food supplies to ensure prowling bears don’t get any. Human food tends to have far more calories than most wild edibles, and bears quickly learn to seek more after they get a first taste. That leads to high-risk conflict for both people and bears: People have been injured and (very rarely) killed by bears seeking food and bears ac-
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
To us, it's always the Year of the Pig!
ROB CHANEY/For The Gazette
customed to human food must be relocated or occasionally killed for public safety. Few of these animals get seen from a car window in Glacier Park. Those who get out on trails and waterways have the best chance of finding them. **** For a different kind of wildlife experience that actually requires a car, consider the National Bison Range. This 18,500-acre refuge between Missoula and Polson holds one of the nation’s most genetically pure herds of bison, captured by Salish Indian tribal members at the start of the 20th century from the last remaining wild herds. Around 300 of the massive ungulates, which can weigh a ton and launch a 5-foot vertical leap, roam the mountain at the center of the range. In addition, drivers can often see elk, pronghorn antelope, whitetail and mule deer, coyotes and small bands of bighorn sheep as they work their way around the Bison Range’s two main routes. The roads are well-maintained dirt surfaces, usually suitable for street vehicles except in bad weather. No trailers or vehicles
longer than 30 feet are allowed on the 19-mile Red Sleep Mountain Road. Just north of the Bison Range, a complex of state and federal wildlife refuges encompass a swarm of pothole lakes supporting dozens of bird species. The Ninepipe and Pablo national wildlife refuges and the Montana Ninepipe Wildlife Management Area. A wide range of ducks, geese and swans migrate through or nest in the waterbodies, along with shorebirds like yellowlegs and plovers, songbirds like red-winged blackbirds, and sparrows, and many raptors including bald and golden eagles. South of Missoula, the Lee Metcalf National Wildlife Refuge has good driving and walking trails beloved by bird-watchers along the Bitterroot River. In fact, the three rivers converging around Missoula; the Bitterroot, Clark Fork and Blackfoot; abound with opportunities for impromptu wildlife spotting. Look for the numerous campgrounds, fishing access sites and state parks such as Milltown State Park at Bonner for places to prowl the riparian areas for beaver, muskrats, great blue herons and osprey.
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SPRING/SUMMER 2019 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A 7
Mountaintop
treasures By PERRY BACKUS pbackus@ravallirepublic.com There’s nothing quite like watching the sunset from on top of a mountain in a room surrounded by glass. The silence is broken only by the sound of the wind against the windowpanes as the skies turn red across a horizon filled with purple mountains that seem to go on forever. It’s an experience that hundreds of visitors to the Bitterroot National Forest have every year through the forest’s fire lookout rental program. But it’s not the only way that people can tap into the rich history of the forest’s lookout towers that date back to 1915. The Bitterroot National Forest has a total of 17 lookout towers that still stand watch over huge expanses of public lands. Each one offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore. Some can be reached over rugged roads by vehicle. Others are only a short walk from a nearby trailhead. To reach the most remote requires stamina and an overnight backcountry stay.
“People go to all of them,” said Rene Eustace, who retired in 2016 as the forest’s lookout coordinator. “Every one offers a completely different experience. Some you can spend the night. At others, you can meet the lookout working there.” If they’re not in the middle of searching for new smoke following a thunderstorm, the lookouts will often take time for a tour of their summer home and answer questions about life at the top of a mountain. “It’s a pretty unique experience for many people,” Eustace said. “I like to think that besides the trail crew, lookouts are one of the last and really old-time Forest Service jobs that are done basically the same way that they’ve been done for more than a century.” Of the 17 lookouts that remain, three are open to the public as rentals. Bitterroot Forest Recreation Manager Erica Strayer said the three rental lookout towers — Mccart, Gird Point and Medicine Point — can all be reserved through the national reservation system at www.recreation.gov Reservations can be made up to six months in advance. “For the most part, they are reserved from June to mid-September,” Strayer said. “Most fill up right away at the six month point. Sometimes people do cancel and spots come open in the summer. If people are interested, it’s a good idea to check the site frequently.” The hike into both Mccart and Gird Point is relatively short, but those who want select Medicine Point need to be prepared for a 3.5-mile march that heads right up the hill.
Bitterroot National Forests lookout towers offer unique experiences
“It’s a different experience,” she said. “It’s more backcountry than the others. It is also definitely a good workout to get there.” Visitors are asked to leave their comments in a book that’s left at each of the rentals. “It’s always really fun to read their comments,” Strayer said. “The public is always very appreciative that the lookouts are available to them to rent. It is a very unique experience to stay on the top of a mountain in a fire lookout.” All three of the lookouts on the rental program are on the National Register of Historic Places. “Lookouts on the forest go back a long ways,” Eustace said. “Salmon Mountain is the oldest that we have documentation. It was first mentioned in the summer of 1915, but there could have been some lookouts that operated earlier on the forest.” In their heyday — starting in the 1930s to the of end WWII — Eustace believes there were probably three times as many lookout towers on the Bitterroot Forest as there are now. “There used to be tons of them,” he said. “There were so many in the West Fork that people were kept busy all summer supplying them with pack strings.” Today, the most popular lookout tower can been easily seen on a sunny day from the grounds of the Historic St. Mary’s Mission in Stevensville perched atop Saint Mary Peak. It’s a 3.5-mile climb from the trailhead just west of town to the St. Mary’s Peak Fire Lookout. The tower has been manned for years by Please see Treasures, Page 12
The Mccart Fire Lookout is one of three lookouts on the Bitterroot National Forest available to the public to rent in the summer and fall. PERRY BACKUS/pbackus@missoulian.com
8 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A
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20th Annual
Saturday,, July 13 Saturday 3 5
Shodair Children’s Hospital brings 80 of Montana’s best men and women high school soccer players to Helena to play in the 20th Annual Shodair Soccer Classic. The games will be played att Carroll College - Nelson Stadium.
FREE KIDS’ SOCCER CLINIC - AGES 5-12 The Shodair Soccer Classic Kids’ Clinic is hosted by players in the Soccer Classic. The clinic will be held on Friday, July 12th, from 9:00AM - 11:00AM at Carroll College Nelson Stadium. The first 300 registrants will receive a t-shirt. Snacks and refreshments will be provided. Kids’ Clinic managed by Helena Youth Soccer Association.
100% of the proceeds from the Shodair Soccer Classic benefit the children and adolescents served at Shodair Children’s Hospital.
To learn more about the Shodair Kids’ Soccer Clinic and the Soccer Classic, call (406) 444-7560, or vcundall@shodair.org SPRING/SUMMER 2019 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A 9
GLACIER COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS ARLEE ARLEE ESYAPQENYI (CELEBRATION) July 3-7 This 121st event includes dance and singing contests, a 3-on-3 basketball tournament, a parade, powwow, food and more. Info at: arleepowwow.com.
BIGFORK WHITEWATER FESTIVAL May 24-26 Bigfork’s 44th annual Whitewater Festival draws kayakers from all over the Northwest to compete on the thrilling rapids of the Wild Mile of the Swan River. Info at: chamber@bigfork.org; bigforkwhitewaterfestival.com; (406)-752-2880. BIGFORK FOURTH OF JULY PARADE July 4 Noon event begins in downtown Bigfork. BIGFORK FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS Aug. 3-4 This two-day event includes 150 vendors in Bigfork from all over the country. Wood work, pottery, paintings, jewelry and all sorts of other types of art work are on display. The festival draws thousands of people each day to buy artwork, listen to music, and eat great food or just people-watch. Info at: bigforkfestivalofthearts.com. CROWN OF THE CONTINENT GUITAR FESTIVAL Aug. 13-17 Create lasting memories as you see and hear music legends perform in the small meadow venue at Flathead Lake Lodge. A diverse lineup presents a mix of emerging and established artists from all genres. Info at: (855)-855-5900; crownguitarfest.org. RUMBLE IN THE BAY CAR SHOW Aug. 31 – Sept. 1 Downtown Bigfork, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Info at: bigforkrumble.com; (406)-260-8385.
Bluegrass and a great band contest. Catch the Gospel Sunday morning. Starts Friday at 5:45 p.m. and ends Sunday around 4 p.m. Info at: (406)-821-3777; hardtimesbluegrass.com. LAKE COMO TRIATHLON July 27 A challenging XTerra-style race with .9mile open water swim, 12.6-mile mountain bike and 7.7-mile trail run at Lake Como in the heart of the Bitterroot Valley. Info at: lakecomotri.com. 14TH ANNUAL ART SHOW & SALE June 14-16 Show and sale of oil paintings, soft pastels, watercolors, photography and bronze sculpture. Bitterroot River Inn, Hamilton. Info at: montanaprofessionalartistsassoc.com. DALY DAYS FESTIVAL July 26-27 Downtown Main Street hosts music, food, fun, crafts and more as an all-ages celebration of Hamilton founder Marcus Daly. Info at: hamiltondowntownassociation.org. BITTERROOT CELTIC GAMES & GATHERING Aug. 17-18 Highland and Irish Dancing, Highland heavy athletic competitions for adults and children, international pipe and drum bands, the gathering of the clans, Scotch, mead and Irish whiskey tastings, vendors and live music. Info at: (406)-274-8886; bcgg.org. ANNUAL CHAMBER MICROBREW FESTIVAL July 27 At Second and Bedford Streets in Hamilton, 3-10 p.m. Lots of brews, wine, cider, food and music. Info at: (406)-363-2400.
HOT SPRINGS
performing arts festival in the state of Montana. It attracts thousands of people to Caras Park every Wednesday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. in June, July and August. Out to Lunch features some of Missoula’s best food and performing artists from throughout the region. Info at: missouladowntown.com. DOWNTOWN TONIGHT June 6-Aug. 29 Downtown ToNight is Missoula’s outdoor, after-work happy hour and features live music, exceptional food vendors and a beer garden. Downtown ToNight is held every Thursday evening from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. from June-August. Info at: missouladowntown.com. SENIOR OLYMPICS IN MISSOULA June 13-15 This first year in Missoula, competition happens in 14 sports for adults 50 years of age and older in five-year divisions (50-54, 55-59, etc.). Info at: montana.fusesport.com. GARDEN CITY RIVER ROD RUN June 21-22 Hundreds of classic cars join the festivities located in Missoula’s Caras Park, including the Friday night Cruisin’ Parade on Higgins Avenue and two-day Show and Shine. Info at: fivevalleyfordclub.com; (406)-728-0324. SUMMER MADE FAIR June 23 A modern art and handcrafted market featuring local and regional artists and makers. 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Caras Park. Info at: handmademontana.com. MISSOULA MARATHON June 28-30 A weekend celebration had evolved around the Sunday marathon and attracts runners from across the U.S. Info at: missoulamarathon.org.
HOMESTEADER DAYS OVANDO June 7-9 FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION DARBY LOGGER DAYS Event includes a parade, rodeo and Called “The Biggest Taste of Old Time more. Info at: Homesteader’s Days Hot Americana, by the Smallest Old Town.” July 19-21 This family event features expert com- Springs Montana on Facebook. Ovando stands proud decorated in red, petitors performing skills of days gone by. white and blue with flags flying everyMISSOULA Contact the Darby Loggers at loggers@ where. Including a Fourth of July Parade darbyloggerdays.com. Info at: darbylogMAGGOTFEST whose theme every year is “Everybody gerdays.com. May 18-19 participates! Nobody watches;” with more DARBY STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL With new fields come more teams to the horse entries than humans. Info at: ovanannual social rugby tournament at Mis- domontana.net. July 20 79th annual old-fashioned ice-cream soula’s Fort Missoula Regional Park. Both POLSON social with music by local musicians, ven- men’s and women’s teams from across dors and raffles. Info at: (406)-381-5114. the country, and even across the world, MISSION MOUNTAIN NRA RODEO will be in town for a weekend of premier HARDTIMES BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL June 28-29 rugby, hosted by the Missoula Maggots Youth events include Mutton Bustin’ and July 26-28 This low-cost, 3 day, family- friendly men’s rugby team. Info at: maggots.org. Mini Bull Riding, 7:30 p.m. at the Mission OUT TO LUNCH Mountain NRA Rodeo. Other rodeo events Bluegrass Festival happens among the June 5-Aug. 28 include bareback, steer wrestling, saddle trees in a beautiful Bitterroot location. 10 great bands - 5 featured pioneers in Out to Lunch is the longest-running bronc, team roping, tie down roping, ladies
DARBY
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and youth barrel racing, ladies and youth breakaway roping and bull riding. Live music after Friday night’s performance. Free vendors fair, no food items. Info at: polsonchamber.com. FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION July 4 The Independence Day celebration kicks off with a parade at noon and fireworks at dusk. Info at: polsonchamber.com. MIRACLE OF AMERICA MUSEUM’S ANNUAL LIVE HISTORY DAYS July 21-22 For their annual fundraiser, the museum will be open the same hours that it operates each day, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in Polson. Info at: miracleofamericamuseum. org; Gil at (406)-883-6264. POLSON MAIN STREET CHERRY FESTIVAL July 20-21 More than 100 vendors converge on downtown Polson, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Sunday. Bring the entire family. Info at: flatheadcherryfestival.com. FLATHEAD LAKE 3-ON-3 BASKETBALL TOURNAMENT July 27-28 Established in 1992, the Flathead Lake 3-on-3 is Montana’s longest running 3-on-3 basketball tournament. Info at: theflatheadlake3on3.com. 5TH ANNUAL FLATHEAD LAKE FESTIVAL OF ART July 27-28 Held on the shores of Flathead Lake at Sacajawea Park in Polson from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Info at: Polsonchamber.com; sandpiperartgallery.com. 48TH ANNUAL SANDPIPER ART FESTIVAL Aug. 10 This popular one-day, juried outdoor festival that features fine art and artisan crafts is held on the Lake County Courthouse lawn in Polson from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Info at: sandpiperartgallery.com. 9TH ANNUAL FLATHEAD LAKE BLUES FESTIVAL Aug. 16-17 Held at the Regatta Shoreline Amphitheater, Polson Fairgrounds, these two days of Bluegrass come from local and national musicians. There is also a performance from Native American dancers. Info at: flatheadlakebluesfestival.com.
STEVENSVILLE WESTERN HERITAGE DAYS IN STEVENSVILLE June 22-24 Please see Events, Page 12
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Western Montana’s
SUMMER
Concert-goers pack the railing on the bar deck at the Kettlehouse Amphitheater during a 2018 show.
By CORY WALSH cory.walsh@missoulian.com
I
f you wanted your pick of bands to see in the past, you might have loaded up the car for a festival in Oregon, Washington or Colorado. Now, western Montana has more than enough options. In Missoula, this season will have big-name concerts at KettleHouse Amphitheater in Bonner, the Big Sky Brewing Company Amphitheater out on the West side of town, and, right in the city center at Ogren Park at Allegiance Field. Add into the mix music festivals new (up in Whitefish) and old (the Montana Folk Festival and River City Roots Festival), and there’s more than the most dedicated fan could hope to see. *** Logjam Presents, which runs the Wilma, Top Hat Lounge, and KettleHouse Amphitheater, will host its first shows out at Ogren Park at Allegiance Field. The big name announced by the time this went to press was British folk-rockers Mumford & Sons, a certifiable stadium act, on Sunday, Aug. 11. The ballpark, with some modifications,
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
will be able to pack in 10,000 fans, making it the largest venue in the Missoula area outside of Washington-Grizzly. The amphitheater, a 4,000-capacity state-of-the-art, custom-designed space tucked right on the Blackfoot River, is entering its third season of concerts. Some of the names include Jim James (of My Morning Jacket) and the Claypool Lennon Delirium; Joe Russo’s Almost Dead, a tribute to Jerry Garcia and company. Guitarist Gary Clark Jr., who’s stretched out from a base of blues picking into hip-hop and more, will make his Missoula debut. Throughout the summer, there will be plenty of noteworthy shows at the Hat and the Wilma, too. Head to logjampresents.com for the complete line-ups and more information. Out at Big Sky Brewing Company Amphitheater, which has a new grassy bowl and a large stage, promoter Knitting Factory Presents has booked several big country acts like Lee Brice and Brad Paisley. Fans of classic rock will no doubt want to see Jackson Browne or the Steve Miller Band, who’s splitting a bill with country guitarist/songwriter Marty Stuart.
MUSIC SCENE in 2019 COLTER PETERSON, MISSOULIAN
Watch bigskybrewconcerts.com during peak tourism season around Glacier National Park (another good for the full lineup. reason to go). Festivals Red Ants Pants takes place Silver Cloud Campout: The on a ranch in central Montana, but 10,000 Silver Dollar Bar in Hau- it would be remiss to exclude mengan has enough property to host tion based on geography, since it’s a festival of its own on June 7-8. one of the most popular music fesThe line-up has touring acts (Billy tivals in the state. Organized by the Strings, Travelin’ McCourys, Kyle clothing company, the festival has Hollingsowrth of String Cheese In- cultivated a laid-back, all-ages atcident), and locals (Shakewell, Dan mosphere that sets it apart from, Dubuque). Watch silvercloudcam- say, Sasquatch. The line-up leans toward country and Americana pout.com for more information. Butte will play host to the that brings people from across Montana Folk Festival on July 12- Montana. Check redantspantsmu14, with a slew of acts playing tra- sicfestival.com for the line-up, ditional music from around the which will play on July 25-28. Rockin’ the Rivers: Hard world. Check montanafolkfestival. rock and metal fans should head com for the line-up. Up in Whitefish, just out- to Rockin’ the Rivers, a three-day side city limits, there’s a brand festival with Zakk Wylde’s tribnew festival, Under the Big Sky. ute band, Zakk Sabbath, plus the The promoter has lined up a very Guess Who, and Foreigner singer rootsy line-up of its own. A private Lou Gramm. The event takes place ranch will play host to Nathaniel at Three Forks on Aug. 8-10. See Rateliff and the Night Sweats; Band rockintherivers.com for more inof Horses; Dwight Yoakam, Jenny formation. River City Roots Festival, a Lewis and more. To see the full lineup for July 13-14, go to underthebig- free, two-day event right in downskyfest.com. Make note that there town Missoula, will close out the isn’t camping on site, so you’ll want summer on Aug. 23-24. The event to make lodging arrangements in has an art show, fun run and a slate advance, or you might find yourself of national artists of the rootsy vascrambling to see what’s available riety.
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display and sell wares at Trout Creek Community Park. Events include entertainment on stage, a parade, a 5K run, and much more. Info at: huckleberryfestival.com.
Events From Page 10
A chuck wagon cook-off, beer garden, live music/street dance, parade, Salish drumming, singing, dancing presentations throughout the day at Historic St. Mary’s Mission, arts, crafts and vendors, sidewalk sales, and open houses throughout downtown Stevensville and more. Info at: mainstreetstevensville.com. CREAMERY PICNIC Aug. 2-3 A traditional, family-oriented Stevensville celebration with a parade, Montana State Bar-B-Q contest, food vendors, crafters and booths, and incredible ice cream. Info at: creamerypicnic.com.
WHITEFISH
UNDER THE BIG SKY MUSIC & ARTS FESTIVAL July 13-14 The inaugural Under The Big Sky Music & Arts Festival happens at the Big Mountain Ranch, where both local and national stars will perform. Headlining the weekend is the modern soul of Nathaniel Rateliff with his band The Night Sweats. Also playing is Band of Horses, a rock band from Seattle. Country music is from Dwight Yoakam, performing alongside indie-star Jenny Lewis and country ST. REGIS music singer Cody Jinks. Info at: underST. REGIS FLEA MARKET thebigskyfest.com. May 25-27 HUCKLEBERRY DAYS ARTS FESTIVAL Annual flea market occurs over MeAug. 9-11 morial Day Weekend in St. Regis. Info at: Art festival with more than 100 artists stregismtflea.org. and food vendors, local live entertainment, TROUT CREEK a mobile climbing wall for kids and adults and a huckleberry dessert bake-off conTROUT CREEK HUCKLEBERRY test. All events take place in/around Depot FESTIVAL Park, Whitefish, unless otherwise noted. Aug. 9-11 More than 100 arts and crafts vendors Info at: whitefishchamber.org.
Treasures From Page 8
hearty volunteers with the Selway-Bitterroot Frank Church Foundation. The foundation’s executive director, Sally Ferguson, said it’s not been hard to find people willing to spend a couple of weeks at what feels like the top of the world. “Lookouts are so romantic and St. Mary’s in particular is in a gorgeous spot,” Ferguson said. “Folks have volunteered for many years and they’ve been loyal and committed. When there have been times that we have an opening, we do have to be a little careful.” “Everyone thinks manning a lookout will be an experience in solitude,” she said. “In reality, our volunteers are greeting people constantly. We get a couple of thousand people coming up there
50th SEASON - 2019
every season.” The volunteers open up their lookout and offer a variety of information to those who have made the trek. The volunteers are also trained to spot smoke and call in anything they might see. “It offers us the chance to spread the message of the importance of wilderness to the public,” Ferguson said. “People have a chance to gain an understanding of the importance of maintaining a vegetative mosaic and the history of St. Mary’s in the context of wilderness. So many don’t really understand what that all means.” “The lookout at St. Mary’s transcends age and interests,” she said. “It’s an iconic structure that represents so much. It’s not just about the old days. It’s also about what people can do to support their national forest now.” “It lets them touch it, experience it and see it for themselves,” Ferguson said.
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Missouri River Country
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Central Country
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Southeast Country
Yellowstone Country
River Country
Southeast Country
YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY
Yellowstone’s new
glam geyser REDISCOVER
M O N TA N A
RM
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 015
Steamboat draws attention away from Old Faithful
During the steam phase, Steamboat geyser in Yellowstone National Park can produce a large cloud. This photo was taken in 2014 from Elk Park, about a mile southwest of Norris Geyser Basin. Jim Peaco, YNP
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The water phase of the eruption can last for three to 40 minutes. In comparison, Old Faithful’s spout is about 140 to 190 feet tall with the eruption lasting about oneand-a-half to five minutes. “You’re really close to it if By BRETT FRENCH you’re on the viewing deck” at french@billingsgazette.com Norris Geyser Basin, Hungerford Lee Newspapers of Montana There’s a newly active geyser in said of a Steamboat eruption. rediscovermt.com Yellowstone National Park that’s “It’s very high. Then it turns into stealing some of Old Faithful’s a steam phase which is really remarkable. You could not carry thunder. Steamboat geyser captured on a conversation because it is so headlines across the nation this loud.” More often, though, Steamyear for erupting more times in a row than ever before — 40 times boat has minor eruptions that may since March 2018 at last count. climb only 6 to 40 feet high and The old record was 29 times set in last one to four minutes. 1964. Calculated out, Steamboat has been blowing since last March One of many about every seven to 11 days on average. Steamboat is one of 500 ther“Giant is another big geyser mal features in a park known for that has been going off lately, too,” its otherworldly boiling mud pots, said Jeff Hungerford, a Yellow- clear blue steaming hot pools and stone geologist. “But somehow what seem to be steaming, rotSteamboat is catching everyone’s ten-egg-smelling portals to hell imagination.” called fumaroles. Norris Geyser Maybe that’s because Steam- Basin, in the northwestern corboat is the tallest active geyser in ner of the park, is the hottest area the world. It was first recorded of Yellowstone (many hot springs erupting in 1878. and fumaroles have temperatures above 200 degrees) and home to Steamboat. Not faithful Although Steamboat’s recent Even with a new record and lots frequent eruptions are unusuof notoriety, Steamboat’s eruption al, they are not unprecedented. pace is a far cry from the numer- In addition to the previous reous ones provided daily by Old cord-setting season in 1964, in Faithful, which spouts off about the early 1980s it was active for every half hour to hour-and-a- more than 20 eruptions. The geyhalf. But Steamboat can be much ser also has long quiet periods. For more robust when it blows its top, 50 years between 1911 and 1961 capable of shooting steam and there was no recorded eruption of water more than 300 feet high. Steamboat, although it could have
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
The big blowup
went off when no one was around to see it. “Each geyser has its own personality,” Hungerford said.
Musings Theories about why Steamboat may be more active right now include more water underground, following recent winters with heavy snowfall. “When you add all that water, it changes the stress” on the surface of the basin, Hungerford said. “It puts a load on the system with the saturated ground, which weighs more.” Anecdotally, that explanation seems sound, said Michael Poland, scientist-in-charge of the Yellowstone Volcano Observatory, but no one has yet combed through history records to connect those dots. Scientists will sometimes use pattern recognition when they are unsure about Kalsang Phuntsok what is happening, he noted. In February, Poland said Steam- Steamboat geyser’s steam phase, shown here in 2013, can be so loud that visitors on the boardwalk cannot hear each other over the roar. boat’s eruptions seemed to be smaller — based on seismic monitoring and measurements of overflow water in a There is camping next door to the If you go geyser basin on a first-come, firstnearby stream, Tantalus Creek. Steamboat geyser is located in served basis. The cost is $20. The “Does that mean the eruptive cythe Norris Geyser Basin, which is 21 campground is open May 17 through cle is waning?” Poland wondered out miles south of the North Entrance at September. loud. “It’s impossible to say. There Mammoth Hot Springs, or 14 miles There is also a museum at the could just be less water in the sysnortheast of Madison Junction. geyser basin and the Museum of the tem.” The entrance fee for Yellowstone is National Park Ranger at the campWith spring runoff the plumbing $35 for a seven-day pass. ground. system under Norris Geyser Basin and Steamboat geyser could be recharged. Poland said it’s an exciting time when scientists might learn ser “behaves the way it does.” Gazing more. The problem for scientists is that Visitors to Yellowstone hoping to the monitors collect vast amounts of data that needs to be crunched, Po- see Steamboat blow this year should Data overload try and time their trip to Norris Geyland said. Last year, scientists placed tem“The math problem becomes very ser Basin about seven to eight days after the last eruption. Those can be porary portable seismic monitors big very fast,” he said. around the geyser in a quest to better “In general, geo-science is fac- tracked at the Yellowstone Volcano understand Steamboat. The idea was ing this problem,” he explained. Observatory’s website, where seisto correlate the noise of all that water “We used to be geo starved. Now the mometers show a distinct eruption rushing around underground during technology is so advanced that we’re signal which is followed about 45 to an eruption with each seismometer. flooded with data, and analyzing it 90 minutes later by a temperature Researchers are combing through hasn’t caught up with collecting it.” spike in the water of Tantalus Creek. There are no guarantees. That’s that data right now. Scientists are also monitoring “There is this tantalizing hope other hydrothermal features in the why people who like to see geysers that we’ll be able to use that to learn basin, such as hot pools like Cistern erupt are called geyser gazers. They more about the intricate plumbing Spring that has drained during and may spend a lot of time looking beof Steamboat,” Poland said, possibly after a major Steamboat geyser erup- fore actually seeing anything. So as illuminating the network of passage- tion, to see how they may change Yellowstone’s staff likes to advise its visitors, pack your patience. ways to provide clues to why the gey- when Steamboat is active.
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Yellowstone National Park’s website provides this description of a Steamboat geyser eruption. A major eruption of Steamboat Geyser is unforgettable. Water surges from two vents to varying heights, then suddenly water is expelled to more than 300 feet (91 meters) high. Curtains of water fall to the slope above the geyser and collect in torrents rushing back into the vents, carrying huge amounts of mud, sand, and rock that are shot skyward again and again. Water coats everything with a glistening layer of silica. A significant amount of eruption debris can accumulate around the geyser. Even cars in the parking area can be littered with debris. (Note, park far away from the geyser.) Mature lodgepole pines have been broken by the downpour, undermined and then washed away by the geyser’s massive discharge. The boardwalk at the base of the hill has been covered by the geyser’s outwash. The water phase of a major eruption lasts three to more than 40 minutes. Once the water supply is exhausted, the geyser continues with a powerful steam phase lasting several hours to several days. Its roar is so great that conversation near the geyser is difficult, and visitors in the Norris Campground, a mile to the north, have been awakened by the noise. Steamboat’s minor eruptions are most common and reach 6-40 feet (2–12 meters) and last one to four minutes. Intervals may be as short as two to five minutes.
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GLACIER COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS BIG SKY GALLATIN RIVER FLY FISHING FESTIVAL June 29-30 The Gallatin River is the site for a funfilled weekend of rafting, running, biking, eating, dancing and, of course, fishing. This festival raises funds to support conservation and restoration efforts by the Gallatin River Task Force within the Upper Gallatin River Watershed. Visit Gallatinrivertaskforce.org. THE GREAT GALLATIN PEDAL, PADDLE, RUN-OFF June 30 The Pedal, Paddle, Run-Off is a race for a healthy Gallatin River! Get a team of 3 (or more) together to bike, boat and run to, in, and from the Gallatin River.
Event concludes with a fair, music, food, and more at Town Center Park in Big Sky that evening. Visit Gallatinrivertaskforce.org.
BOZEMAN ART WALKS June 8–Sept. 14 From 6-8 p.m. on the second Friday of each month June through September and a special “Winter” Art Walk in December, art galleries and businesses display artwork located along Main Street and at the Emerson Center for Arts and Culture. The galleries feature artists’ openings and receptions, and often provide hors d’oeuvres and complimentary refreshments. Music may play as you stroll along Main Street in Downtown Bozeman. Visit Downtownbozeman.org.
BOGERT’S FARMER’S MARKET June 5-Sept. 25 Bogert Park, South Church Avenue, Bozeman, MT On Tuesdays from 5 to 8 p.m. from June through late September, area vendors bring vegetables, arts, crafts, music, food and much more to this fun-filled family environment. The Market is run by The Friends of Bogert Park, and proceeds go to rejuvenate the park, found on S. Church Ave. in Bozeman. BOZEMAN STAMPEDE RODEO Aug. 9-11 The Bozeman Stampede is a nonprofit rodeo serving as a fun community event that benefits Bozeman businesses and community – both culturally and economically
– while supporting local agricultural groups. The rodeo is sanctioned under the PRCA and happens at 7 p.m. each night at the Gallatin County Fairgrounds, 901 N Black Ave. Visit Bozemanstampede.com. BZN FILM CELEBRATION June 7-10 BZN, the Bozeman Film Celebration’s inaugural film festival, launches its four-day event held at 10 a.m. daily June 7-10 in Downtown Bozeman and the MSU campus. Featuring more than 70 films from around the globe, this year’s festival will focus on women in the film industry, and will be complemented by a rich slate of panels, happy hours, community-wide events and parties, and an awards ceremony. Visit Bozemanfilmcelebration.com.
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CRUISIN’ ON MAIN ANNUAL CAR SHOW Aug. 19 At 9 a.m., come see the biggest car show in the region. Registration begins at 8 a.m. at the intersection of Black and Main Streets. All classes of cars are welcome to enter. All proceeds support Cancer Support Community, and prizes will be awarded in more than 14 car categories including a “People’s Choice” and Best of Show. Visit Downtownbozeman.org. MUSIC ON MAIN June 28-Aug. 16 Every Thursday evening for eight weeks from late June to mid-August, enjoy live music, food and fun in Downtown Bozeman. Bring the kids from 6:30 to 8 p.m. for kid’s activities. Then, enjoy live music from 7 to 8:30 p.m. Grab a bite to eat from numerous food vendors that will be on site or step into a few of the downtown stores that stay open late. Visit Downtownbozeman.org. SWEET PEA FESTIVAL Aug. 3-5 Celebrate the arts and community through events for the whole family in Downtown Bozeman. Start with the Chalk on the Walk, 8 a.m., July 31; the Bite of Bozeman, 6 p.m., Aug. 1; Music on Main, 6:30 p.m. Aug. 2; Adult Run, Children’s Run and Parade, Aug. Livingston Rodeo Parade. July 2, 2017. 4. Visit Sweetpeafestival.org. In a Berlin nightclub, as the 1920s draw LIVINGSTON to a close, “Cabaret” explores the dark, LIVINGSTON ROUNDUP RODEO heady and tumultuous life of those in and July 2-4 from Berlin. But, there is romance, too. All Livingston’s rodeo draws 10,000 specta- shows are at the Dulcie Theatre Fridays and tors yearly to see top rodeo cowboys and Saturdays at 8 p.m., and Sundays at 3 p.m. cowgirls from across North America com- Visit Theshanecenter.org. peting in multiple events. These are the SUMMERFEST best saddle-bronc riders, team ropers, barJuly 20 rel racers, and bull riders. This year’s Summerfest is a day-long event Fun starts 3 p.m. Monday at the Living- with music and family-friendly festivities ston Chamber of Commerce Parade held along the Yellowstone River. Local vendors downtown. Monday-Wednesday rodeos and Montana talent add to the show that is start at 8 p.m. and fireworks follow at the held each year by the Livingston Recreation Park County Fairgrounds. Department. Visit Livingstonmontana.org. Kiddie Rodeo is 1 p.m. Tuesday, using PARK COUNTY FAIR stick animals. For more information, visit July 25-28 Livingstonroundup.com. This county-wide and 4-H fair has a carFESTIVAL OF THE ARTS nival, games, rides, stock auction, comJuly 2–4 mercial exhibitions, family entertainment, The Livingston Depot Center’s Festival farmers market and pig wrestling contest. of the Arts will be held in the Depot Rotary There are 20 water and electrical hookups Park, on West Park Street (next to the Depot for RVs and campers at the Park County Center) in downtown Livingston Monday and Fairground, 46 View Vista Dr., Livingston. Tuesday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Wednesday, Visit Livingston-chamber.com. doors close at 5 p.m. This three-day juried RED LODGE show features works from all media of arts and crafts, created by approximately 100 RED LODGE MUSIC FESTIVAL skilled artists and craftspeople. Nonprofit June 2-10 groups also offer specialty foods, and the The oldest and most successful music fesDepot continues to host the acclaimed pie tival in Montana attracts more than 200 stubooth. Visit Livingstondepot.org. dents annually to the Red Lodge Civic Cen“CABARET” AT SHANE LALANI CENTER ter. With faculty from universities, colleges and symphony orchestras from across the June 29-July 22
LARRY MAYER, Gazette Staff
nation, this is a full-blown, nine-day music festival with five evening faculty concerts, two evening student recitals, and afternoon band and orchestra performances. Student concerts are free. Visit Redlodge. com or Rlmf.org. RED LODGE SONGWRITER FESTIVAL June 21-23 Celebrate summer listening to some of the country’s best songwriters at various locations throughout Downtown Red Lodge. Shows will start late in the afternoon and play into the late night. A portion of the proceeds support Friends of the Beartooths, dedicated to the improvement and promotion of the Beartooth Highway and its neighboring communities. For more information and full schedule, visit Redlodgesongwriterfest.com. RED LODGE HOME OF CHAMPIONS RODEO AND PARADE July 2-4 Home of Champions Rodeo features some of professional rodeo’s top cowboys and cowgirls. Take in the ropin’ and ridin’, singin’ and swingin’ with a downtown parade each day at noon and a rodeo at 6 p.m. July 2-3 and at 3 p.m. July 4. Visit Redlodgerodeo.com. ART IN THE BEARTOOTHS July 14 The 45th Annual Art in the Beartooths is 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday, July 14 at the Carbon County Depot Gallery. This annual fundraiser begins with 30 artists painting
live on the deck of the Depot Gallery and in Lions Park. As the artists paint until 2 p.m., viewing is free and open to everyone. Gates for the ticketed part of the event open at 4 p.m. in Lions Park. A no-host bar and hors d’oeuvres will be available while viewing the art created that day. Visit Carboncountydepotgallery.org BEARTOOTH MOTORCYCLE RALLY July 20-22 Plan on the 24th Annual Beartooth Motorcycle Rally being better than ever! As always this weekend promises lots of rides, food and fun each day, and in the evening you can dance under the stars. Visit Beartoothrally.com. CRUISEN RED LODGE CAR AND BIKE SHOW July 27-29 Red Lodge’s premiere summer car show will have you in awe at your favorite classic cars and motorcycles. A 4-8 p.m. Friday BBQ is at Pride Park, with a parade down Main Street at 7 p.m. The Saturday car show is all day at Pride Park. The nostalgic drag races are Sunday on the airport runway. Visit Cruisenredlodge.com LABOR DAY ARTS FAIR Sept. 3 Enjoy art and fine crafts from 90-plus artists for one annual Labor Day Arts Fair, 9 a.m.–4 p.m., Monday, Sept. 3, in Lions Park, Please see Events, Page 18
SPRING/SUMMER 2019 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A 17
Events From 17
Red Lodge. Stroll the park and stop in the artists’ booths to shop for original creations. Food vendors surround the gazebo, and local groups entertain all day at the gazebo, rain or shine. Free Admission. Visit Redlodge.com.
REED POINT GREAT MONTANA SHEEP DRIVE Sept. 2 Hundreds of sheep take to Reed Point’s main street at 10 a.m. during this Labor Day weekend staple. Enjoy the street fair, parade and street dance, as well as the Classic Car Show and Round Bale Roll. Visit Stillwatercountychamber.com
THREE FORKS
Gazette Staff
The third annual Red Lodge Songwriter Festival brings families together for a weekend of inspiring music heard from local and Nashville songwriters, June 21-23.
ROCKIN’ THE RIVERS MUSIC FESTIVAL Aug. 10-12 The biggest country music festival in Montana has three days of music featuring more than a dozen bands. This summer go-to event has camping available, and the crowds enjoy ice-cold beer,
ongoing horseshoes and dancing, all at The Bridge near Three Forks. Headliners include Skid Row, Stephen Pearcy of RATT, Tommy James & the Shondells, Dennis Quaid & the Sharks, Eve 6, Everlast, Theory of a Deadman, Hell’s Belles, and Grass Roots. Visit Rockintherivers.com.
WEST YELLOWSTONE SMOKING WATERS MOUNTAIN MAN RENDEZVOUS Aug. 3-12 The 13th Annual Smoking Waters Mountain Man Rendezvous and 1800s Living History Encampment show how mountain men lived, worked and traded in the Old West. Held at the Old Airport in West Yellowstone, the event is free to the public and open 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, one mile from the park’s West Entrance. Spend a day or a week at this encampment to see traders’ row, a real encampment, entertainment and seminars about “life as it was.” See the excitement of the era during Tomahawk and knife demonstrations for adults and children, black-powder shoots and mountain-man storytelling. Traders must have primitive gear and canvas-style tents. The primitive camp has no water or electricity. Visit Crazycrow.com.
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Easy to find. Take Interstate Exit #450 to 9th Ave. North and turn left one-half block. You are centrally located to downtown, the Metra, airport and with easy access to other parts of the city. AAA approved. All major credit cards accepted. Family owned and operated. Across the street from Billings Clinic.
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18 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A
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SPRING/SUMMER 2019
LET’S SUMMER IN RED LODGE By CHARITY DEWING cdewing@billingsgazette.com
W
hile it maintains its small-town ambiance, Red Lodge is an ever-progressing mountain town that features some of the leading art centers in the country, wildlife sanctuaries and several of the most innovative and contemporary businesses and people you will ever meet.
Tippet Rise Art Center
About an hour north of Red Lodge, in the picturesque town of Fishtail, lies Tippet Rise Art Center, the largest-known sculpture park by landmass. Captivating pieces include “Two Discs,” by Alexander Calder, a titanic steel sculpture of abstract expressionism juxtaposing the natural elements around it. “Domo,” by Ensamble Studio, appears as three colossal fragments of rock formed as one. While the massive piece stands out against grassy plains and vast blue sky, it simultaneously appears alien to the environment or perhaps an artifact of something that has always been. The 2019 summer concert season at Tippet Rise begins July 12 through Sept. 7, with The Gryphon Trio performing Beethoven and Brahms and work of Sri Lankan-born composer, Dinuk Wijeratne. The season continues with flutist Brandon Patrick George, pianists Stephen Hough and Aristo Sham, the St. Lawrence String Quartet and many more performing at sculpture sites or the Olivier Music Barn. Tickets must be purchased in advance and online. Natural harmony is abundant as massive site art becomes the stage for flute, violin and cello instrumentalists. As their melodies flock together through the breeze and over the prairies, Tippet Rise shows that the unusual is usually the most beautiful. Tippet Rise will open to visitors from early July to mid-September
ry soap bar, Flintstone vitamin, tennis ball, car freshener and more. While the items are unpainted, the bare clay connects the observer to the simplicity of how life and all of its surroundings can remind us of someone who is no longer part of our daily routine. The exhibit is on display from June 7-30. No matter if you are an aspiring artist or a loving enthusiast, the Red Lodge Clay Center appeals to Courtesy photo art lovers of all kinds, calling to the Yellowstone Wildlife Sanctuary stories we all tell and fitting our own molds. on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. For more information call (406)Van tours can take up to eight pas446-3993 or visit redlodgeclaycensengers for $10 per person; riders 21 ter.com. and under are free, and all tours require reservations. You can also tour The Yellowstone Wildlife on your own on foot or pedal. For more information, go to tip- Sanctuary For as many as 30 years, The Yelpetrise.org. lowstone Wildlife Sanctuary has been a haven for animals exclusively Red Lodge Clay Center If you want to break away from from the Yellowstone ecosystem. The mission behind the sanctraditional western art, then Red Lodge Clay Center is the place to go. tuary is to only house animals that From functional to abstract pieces need to be taken in – the ones who that demand attention, the center have been permanently injured, accontinues to deliver quality ceramic climated or emotionally damaged by living with humans. art from exclusive resident artists. “These animals were either Sculptors from all over the U.S. participate in the residency pro- someone’s pet or injured and cannot gram at the center. Whether it is be introduced back into the wild,” intentional or not, the selected art- said education director Gary Robists tend to achieve the same result son. “We only take in animals that – taking what may be a seemingly need us.” Because of the extraordinary typical concept and adding their own unique twist, like triangular care the animals receive, their lifesdining ware with jagged edges, frag- pans are enhanced. The sanctuary mented or distorted animals figures, employs individuals with degrees in wildlife biology subjects as part and unusual floral patterns. Say goodbye to winter’s bite of its animal care staff. With as with six feature artists honoring many as 20 animals, staff work to the colors and concepts of the tem- create healing, healthy and natural perate season of new beginnings. habitats. Resident animals include “Spring Fever” features ceramics a black bear, bobcat, Canada lynx, that encapsulate warm, bright flo- mountain lion, red fox, coyote, gray ral themes with a modern vibe that wolf, bison, Sandhill crane, great offers something for everyone. The horned owl, prairie falcon and many exhibit is on display from May 3–26. more. Visitors not only get to see a rePattie Chalmers’ exhibition, “Every Day I Think of You,” cap- markable mix of animals directly tures the emotion that can be evoked from the region, but they get to see by ordinary objects. The clay-made them as survivors – content and pieces include tools, purses, an Ivo- thriving.
Summer hours, April 1 to Oct. 31, we are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., every day but Tuesday. Cost is $10 for adults, $7 for seniors and military, $4 for kids 4-12, and children under 4 are free. Guided tours are $25 for the group in addition to the admission rates. Animal encounters are $35. Guided tours paired with animal encounters are $45. For more information call (406)446-1133 or visit yellowstonewildlifesanctuary.org.
Beartooth Basin Summer Ski Area
Despite record breaking snowfall in February, there are those who still need snow days in summer. Just 23 miles south of Red Lodge is the only summer-specific ski destination in North America, Beartooth Basin Summer Ski Area, where proficient skiers and boarders find the cool way to enjoy the hot weather. “This is for advanced skiers that are traveling to the Beartooth Pass with the intent to do some riding and skiing routes that are accessed via the highway,” said Austin Hart, manager at Beartooth Basin. “The Basin is not your average ski hill – we don’t have a lot of amenities and we don’t sell much outside of lift tickets and a unique riding experience.”
Twin Lakes Headwall Terrain
600 acres of very steep skiing terrain that varies in pitch from 15 to 50 degrees – this is not for the faint of heart. The headwall has two highspeed platter lifts that pulls skiers along the surface of the slope at 850’ of vertical assist. With an elevation of 10,900 feet and 1,000 feet of lift serviced straight up, the surrounding areas offer 3,000 vertical feet of hikein backcountry skiing and riding. Hardcore skiers can hike an additional 100-200 feet with the Twin Lakes headwall – even more to ski to the lakes. Please see SUMMER, Page 20
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Summer From 19
“The tourists walk to the edge of the slope and point down, commenting on how crazy all the skiers are. Most guests that ride at the Basin aren’t your average tourist,” said Hart.
Rails, air and racing – oh my
The Basin uses SnoCats to create and shape jumps for the park and riders can get some serious air. If boarders are feeling especially tricky, there are a variety of rails and features to “jib” on. “The setting is spectacular – snow surface conditions are generally soft and predictable, and there is a sense of adventure and camaraderie while exploring the Beartooth Pass,” said Hart.
Ski Racing & Freestyle Camps
The Basin offers part of the hill for athletic programs from all over the country to train. Big Mountain and Freeride teams also travel from around the west to ride at the Basin and Beartooth Pass. “It’s wild up there. Everyone looks out for each other and has a good time. The phrase we like to use at the Basin is ‘the spirit of skiing,’” said Hart. With alpine views and numerous ski routes, the Basin calls to folks that enjoy the simplicity of skiing in the mountains with friends, where experience is not contrived or pre-determined by anyone else. “We are a locally owned community ski hill and we just think it’s important to keep places like this alive because it’s important for the future of ski culture in the western U.S.,” said Hart. Teams and groups can rent hill space for ski racing and mogul training through the season. For more information call (307)250-3767 or visit beartoothbasin. com.
The Beartooth Highway
Every year, during Memorial Day weekend, cars line up as visitors await the opening of the Beartooth Highway. “I go up and handout maps and
muffins for all of the tourists,” said Sherry Weamer, executive director at the Red Lodge Area Chamber of Commerce. As car horns honk in applause for the gate opening of the highway, many of the tourist have no idea what it takes to make it all happen. A month of planning and plowing takes place to make the highway accessible to the many guest that behold its wonderment. “The Montana Department of Transportation plows all the way to its highest point at 10,947 feet,” said Weamer. “It’s dangerous, they often cannot see where the dropoff is and they are hanging off the edge. These drivers take great pride in their work and this highway.” The Beartooth Highway begins in Montana, enters Wyoming and ends up back in Montana, making it unclaimable and by extension, orphaned. Thanks to Yellowstone National Park and the transportation plows of Montana and Wyoming, guests can take in views from what feels like the top of the world. “People come from all over the world. It is one thing to stand at the bottom of a mountain and look up – but to drive up almost 11, 000 feet and watch how everything changes – the plant life, animals and scenery – it’s truly extraordinary,” said Weamer. The highway is also deemed an “All American Road” by the United States Department of Transportation for its natural and picturesque topographies. From Red Lodge to Cooke City, the 68 mile drive in Montana proves why the Beartooth Highway is more than just a road. With abundant wildlife, lakes, glaciers, snow-caped peaks, cloud-covered vistas and fields upon fields of wildflowers, it shows the enormity and beauty of a landscape that remains preserved in its element. “I tell all tourists to take their time – stop and pull over. Have a picnic, walk around and just take it all in,” said Weamer. The Beartooth Highway opens at 8 a.m., May 24. For more information on the Beartooth Highway visit redlodge. com or call Sherry Weamer at (406)-446-1718.
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Don’t fly in the face of danger When you’re playing and working outside, remember: if a powerline is near, stay 10 feet clear. And if you see e a downed do line, keep a ce, warn others safe distanc and call 911 1.
Gary K. Estimator, 10 years off s services
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Historic Chico Hot Springs resort offers
relaxation, exploration and more
Gazette Staff
An overlook of the Chico Hot Springs resort.
By MIKE KORDENBROCK mkordenbrock@ billingsgazette.com
F
or more than 100 years, Chico Hot Springs, in one form or another, has offered peace in the heart of Montana. A resort in the small town of Pray located in the scenic Paradise Valley, Chico Hot Springs has lodging and a wide variety of activities along with access to its namesake natural hot springs pool. When Percie Knowles and her husband William Knowles opened a boarding house at the hot springs in 1900, they celebrated with a brass band to herald their new business which promised a clean bed, hot bath and strawberries with meals. Much has changed since then, including the $6 weekly fee charged at the time. When it became a health spa in 1912, the doctor employed there boasted the mineral hot spring pools could cure rheumatism, kidney disease, skin problems and internal ailments. Over the decades it has served as a boarding house for immigrants seeking gold, a hospital, a church
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
More information Chico Hot Springs Resort and Hotel Address: 163 Chico Road, Pray, Montana, 59065 Phone: 406-333-4933 Website: www.chicohotsprings. com
camp, guest ranch, bed and breakfast, hotel, roadhouse, fine dining restaurant and romantic inn before settling into its current form. As if in honor of its long and varied past, Chico offers and facilitates a wide variety of activities in the present for visitors. Those activities include horseback riding, fly fishing, river rafting, disc golf, hiking, mountain biking and live music. The property also has vegetable and flower gardens which have been known to attract honey bees and Monarch butterflies. Food and drink options are also plentiful at Chico, where guests can choose from the historic dining room, the Chico Saloon, the Poolside Grille and the tasting room. Reservations are recommended for the dining room, which also
Gazette Staff
serves buffet breakfast and Sunday brunch, in addition to dinner. The menu has a variety of options including trout, steak, chicken breast, prime rib, pork chops, filet mignon, duck and Beef Wellington. For a more casual dining experience, or for lunch food, The Poolside Grille has menu items including melt sandwiches, burgers, pizza, wraps, soup, salad and milkshakes. The restaurant also has kid friendly food options. The Poolside Grille also cooks food for the adjacent Chico Saloon. The Chico Saloon has live music every Friday and Saturday night. The bar is next to the hot spring
pool and has a walk-up window for swimmers to order drinks. In addition to bar seating, the saloon has video poker, keno machines, billiards, foosball, shuffleboard and TVs. Chico’s tasting room requires reservations and is available to parties of between two and six people. In the private wine cellar, the tasting room offers a chef’s tasting menu of between seven and 12 courses, which can be joined with select or premium wine pairings. The hot spring pool is open air with a view of the Absaroka Mountains. Admission is included in lodging fees. Day guests must pay a fee. The pool is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Day guests can pay a fee at the front desk. After 11 a.m. that fee can be paid at the saloon or poolside grille. Adults pay $8.50, seniors age 65 and up along with kids age three to six pay $3.50. Children two and under have free admission. Lodging is available in a variety of forms, including rooms, suites, glamping, luxury cabins and a hillside chalet. The Main Lodge of the resort is on the National Register of Historic Places.
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RM
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 015
SOUTHWEST COUNTRY
If you go
OLD PRISON is a great place to spend time, if not do time By PAT HANSEN The Montana Territorial Prison, built in 1891, resembles a medieval castle and is an amazing piece of Montana history that anchors the south end of Main Street in Deer Lodge. The towering gray sandstone walls of the first Territorial Prison in the western United States are 24 feet high and buried 4 feet deep to prevent escape by tunneling. The walls and guard towers were built in 1893 by convict labor using locally quarried stone. Under the direction of Warden Frank Conley, convicts also built the brick cell house in 1912, the maximum security building and the W.A. Clark Theatre. In 1979, the last prisoners were moved to the new prison west of town. Today the 9-acre Old Prison museum complex is managed by Powell County Museum & Arts Foundation. Passing through a large wooden door in the Visitor Center, you enter the enclosed courtyard where convicts once exercised, and two were hanged; visit the austere 1912 cellblock, Montana Law Enforcement Memorial Hall of Honor, and across the yard feel spine-tingling chills in the former Women’s Prison that became Maximum Security. See where prisoners worked, received medical care, and enjoyed entertainment at the W.A. Clark Theatre until it was gutted by fire in 1975. You can tour on your own using an informative guide book, or take a guided tour. Either way, you will learn about prison life, interesting characters like Turkey Pete, and what guards experienced during
Old Prison photo
Blacksmith Brian demonstrates his skill at the forge in Cottonwood City at the Old Prison.
the 1959 riot. Are you intrigued by the paranormal? Throughout the summer and fall, the brave-of-heart may can join a nighttime Ghost Tour, or even spend the night in prison. You may hear the eerie sound of footsteps, voices, and steel cell doors clanging in the cellblock. Spirit orbs have been seen. Tickets sell out months in advance, so call early for dates and reservations. Reentering the gift shop, proceed to the Montana Auto Museum where a magnificent collection of 166 cars and trucks showcase the automotive age from the 1886 Benz Motor Wagon replica through the 1960s and early 1970s muscle cars. Recall memories of Grandpa’s, Dad’s or your own first car or truck — it’s a great opportunity to share stories with the younger generation. A special exhibit highlights completion of the Yellowstone Trail in 1916; the fi rst transcontinental road from Plymouth Rock to Puget Sound. (It is now part of Interstate 90 or closely parallels
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it.) To celebrate, on Sept. 11, 1916, a relay from Plymouth Rock to Seattle took 121 hours, the fastest time ever clocked across the nation, coming through Deer Lodge about 10 a.m. on September 15. Across Main Street, at Yesterday’s Playthings dolls, toys and trains of the past are on display. A marvelous model railroad exhibit features a large diorama with two or three trains running through a setting replicating the local area. Frontier Montana houses the largest collection of guns and Western memorabilia, between Cody, Wyoming and Calgary, Alberta, that was used between 1829 and 1900 and replica of a frontier Sheriff’s office. See also a display of World War II memorabilia with posters, personal letters, uniforms and more; and F.J. Haynes’ photographs of Yellowstone Park from 1883 to 1962. The Powell County Museum features local exhibits including the fantastic Huntoon woodcarving exhibit, handcrafted Civil War dioramas, mining equipment (kids will love the glowing rocks) and family life displays. Other points of interest in the two-block complex are the replica frontier town of Cottonwood City (once the name of Deer Lodge), Milwaukee Railroad display, and the PEN art gallery. Enjoy an ice cream treat at the “Prison Cow” or a picnic in the park area. Not part of the museums, but worth visiting are the Prison Hobby Shop, nationally recognized for its beautiful hand-hitched horse hair belts, bridles, hat bands, arts and crafts made by prisoners and Territorial Antiques in the former Warden’s house.
Directions:
Located just off I-90; 38 miles west of Butte at Exit 187 or 81 miles east of Missoula at Exit 184.
Hours:
The Old Prison is open 7 days a week year-round, except from mid-December to early January, when it is closed. of Montana Lee Newspapers May 1 to Oct. 15: 8 a.m. to rediscovermt.com 6 p.m.; Winter hours Oct. 16 to mid-December: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. One admission price allows visitors to enjoy the Prison and four other museums. Guided tours of the prison are at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. daily, June through August. Information: call 406846-3111, www.oldprisonmuseums.com, or email info@pcmaf. org Restrooms are in Visitor Center/Gift Shop There is quite a bit of walking, so wear comfortable shoes; a wheelchair and scooter are available. The prison is over 125 years old and some of the walkways are a bit uneven. To fully enjoy the entire complex plan at least two to four hours; but if time is limited your pass is good for another visit within the year!
Events:
May 3-Oct. 19 – Ghost Tours from 9:30 p.m. to 3:30 a.m. (check dates) May 15, noon – Peace Officer Memorial Day in Prison Yard and Law Enforcement Hall of Honor. June 1, July 6, July 27 and Aug. 17 – Virtual Convict Lockdown in cellhouse; 6:30 p.m. to 6:30 a.m. June 29 – July 1 – Montana Academy of Living History July 4 – Annual Fireworks and Pig Roast. Oct. DTBA – Haunted House While in Deer Lodge also plan to visit Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site that commemorates the open range cattle era, located at the north end of Main Street. Tour the home with original furnishings, bunkhouse row where the cowboys lived, lower yard with blacksmith shop, vehicle barn, horses and chickens; many hands-on activities to interest the entire family. Admission is free.
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
ARCHIE BRAY is worldwide attraction By ANNIE PENTILLA anne.pentilla@mtstandard.com When Steven Young Lee visited Helena’s Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts for the first time in 1998 as a resident artist, he found a place that was truly unique. Originally from Chicago, Lee found himself captivated not only with the wide-open spaces of Montana but also the community of artists he encountered at The Bray. It was the kind of place that artists dream about – a place where artists build supportive, nurturing relationships, all against the mountainous backdrop of the Big Sky State. Lee is now in his 13th year as the nonprofit’s director, and he says what initially drew him to the organization is what continues to spark his passion for the nonprofit. “I honestly thought I’d be going into teaching,” said Lee, recalling how he transitioned into the director role. “But then when I came here and met all the folks that were working out at The Bray, I just thought that was really something
I wanted to spend my time and career doing.” Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the organization’s grounds are located three miles from downtown Helena at the site of a former brickyard. The site was once home to Western Clay Manufacturing Co. The Bray got its start in 1951, when brick maker Archie Bray wanted to create a venue to support ceramic artists. An internationally recognized organization, The Bray boasts one of the nation’s oldest artist residency programs exclusively for ceramic artists. The nonprofit regularly hosts around 10 long-term residents who work, collaborate and often teach at the organization, where they’re provided studio space, materials and equipment. The organization also offers summer and short term residencies. The Bray’s director and a rotating jury of two ceramic artists choose new residents once a year in March. The Bray, however, is more than just a place for artists in residence. The organization also has a ro-
Provided, Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts
Artists and Helena locals gather for the Bray Benefit Live Auction and Brickyard Bash in this provided image.
bust education program and regularly hosts classes that are open to the community. Most often taught by resident artists, the classes can last several weeks, giving local artists and hobbyists a chance to literally get their hands dirty. The organization also recruits artists from throughout the nation and world to teach summer intensive workshops, and students from all around travel to Helena to attend and hone their skills. Visitors, meanwhile, will want to check out the organization’s art exhibitions, which display functional pottery alongside fine-art pieces by resident, visiting and other artists. These exhibitions rotate and are free and open to the public. There’s also a sales gallery where visitors can purchase ceramic works by current and past resident artists. Visitors may also want to stop by The Bray’s ceramic art-supply
business, where locals and travelers can purchase clay, tools, books and more. The Bray is the largest clay supplier in Montana and one of the largest in the Northwest. In all, the organization is a must-see for artists and travelers looking for a unique experience. Generations of artists have left their work behind as a testament to their time at The Bray, resulting in an unofficial outdoor museum of sorts, one that documents American contemporary ceramic arts. On those very same grounds, visitors will also find a new $2-million education and research facility, along with the ruins of the old brick-making factory, which serves as a reminder of The Bray’s rich history. “I think the physical objects that have been left behind become really important parts of the visitor experience,” Lee said. Please see ARCHIE BRAY, Page 24
A view of “Potter’s Shrine” is pictured here on the grounds of the Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts in Helena. Provided, Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
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Provided, Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts
Viewers gather at an exhibition opening in the Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts’ Warehouse Gallery.
If you go: Address: 2915 Country Club Ave., Helena Phone: (406) 443-3502 Facebook: facebook.com/ ArchieBrayFoundation Office Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Friday. Gallery Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday; additionally open 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., Sundays, June through August. Clay Business Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturdays. For more info on residencies and upcoming exhibitions, classes, workshops and special events, visit archiebray.org.
Archie Bray From Page 23
He added that those new to The Bray can take a self-guided walking tour during daylight hours. The exhibition gallery, sales gallery and ceramics business are also open regularly during the day. Guided tours for groups such as schools are available by appointment. The Archie Bray Foundation puts on several events throughout the year, including during the summer. Some of the most notable summer events include the Resident Artist Exhibition, which opens June 20 and runs through the
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Provided, Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts
Resident artist Kelsey Duncan shows finesse as he creates one of his works at the Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts.
end of July, and the Bray Benefit Live Auction and Brickyard Bash. This year the event falls on July 27 and will feature several auctions and a celebration, replete with live music by the Big Sky Mudflaps and Salsa Loca. So what makes The Bray one of a kind? According to Lee, many craft
organizations focus on education, but what makes the Bray unique is its residency-centered approach. “The focus has always been from the beginning on the artists,” said Lee. “The other programs kind of feed off of that.” Some Helena natives are surprised to hear they have an international organization residing in
their collective backyard, but for ceramists around the world The Bray is legendary. It’s an organization that brings people from diverse backgrounds to the Queen City every year, enriching and enlivening the community with the spirit of the arts. “There really isn’t anywhere quite like The Bray,” said Lee.
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SOUTHWEST MONTANA HOT SPOTS
★ 1
★ 2
★ 3
★ 5
★ 4
SPRING/SUMMER 2019 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A 25
Welcome to Anaconda, MT 40th ANNUAL ARt IN thE WAShOE PARK IN ANACONDA!
SponSored by Copper Village art MuSeuM Featuring new bands and artists. Hours
July 19, 20 & 21
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Welcome to Butte, MT While in town don’t forget to try... The Original JOhn’s POrk ChOP sandwiCh
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Make it a CoMbo!
Friday: 3-5:30 pm Ken Rich Band 6-10 pm Tim Montana Saturday: Noon-3 pm Tom Catmull & Last Resort Band 3:30-6 pm Wayne Brothers and Night Life Band 7-10 pm Steve Kelly & Cherry Cherry Band Sunday: 1-4 pm Shodown
Buy Any sAnDWich or entree...
Add Fries & Medium Drink...$4.00 Add Fries & Large Drink...$4.25
80 Art and Craft Booths | 20 Food Vendors
2400 Harrison • 782-1783 8 W. Mercury • 782-0812 | www.PorkChopJohns.com 2400 Harrison • 782-1783 | 8|W W. Mercury • 782-0812 | www.PorkChopJohns.com
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3703 Harrison Ave, Butte, MT 59701 BUTTE 406.299.2276 • HELENA 406.449.7032 • BOZEMAN 406.994.0188 • BILLINGS 406.248.3340
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& GOOD TYMES CASINO Your one stop shop for ... FOOD FUEL FUN!
Stop by Butte Visitor’s Center, get information on Individual Attractions, Walking Tours, Maps & More. Our staff will answer any of your Butte questions.
1000 George Street Butte, MT 59701 Phone: (406) 723-3177 Toll Free: (800) 735-6814 www.buttechamber.org www.buttecvb.com
Take the Trolley Tour of “The Richest Hill on Earth”, call today. Summer Chamber Hours (late May-Sept.) Monday - Saturday: 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Sunday: 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.
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IT!
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SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Welcome to Butte, MT Open Tues. - Sat. 11:30am - 7:00pm
Montana St. & Rowe Rd.
An Rí Rá Montana Irish Festival
FREE ADMISSION
August 9th, 10th & 11th 2019 Butte,Montana | The Original Mine
All Beef Hamburgers, Homemade Fries, Homemade Ice Cream
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Your Stay Includes: Business Service Health & Fitness Center Indoor Pool and Spa Free Breakfas
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A Production of The Montana Gaelic Cultural Society Festival Partners: Butte-Silver Bow Government, Butte-Silver Bow CVB, Butte-Silver Bow TBID
Butte’s only Boutique Hotel in Historic Uptown Butte
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Uno’s LoUnge & Casino 3235 Harrison Ave Butte, MT 406-494-0131
Located within walking distance of Festivals, Restaurants, Local Breweries & Distilleries and so much more that Uptown Butte has to offer! Only 12 rooms Available! Call or book online Today! • 53 W. Park • 406.723.8928 w w w. t h e m i n e r s h o t e l . c o m
SPRING/SUMMER 2019 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A 27
SOUTHWEST MONTANA HOT SPOTS
1 DEER LODGE
3 BUTTE
Joe’s Pasty
1641 Grand Ave. Broadway Cafe’ Pizzeria Deer Lodge Chamber (406) 723-9071 302 E. Broadway of Commerce Mon.-Fri. 7am-7pm; (406) 723-8711 529 Main St. Sat. 7am-3pm Mon.-Thur. 11am-8pm (406) 846-2094 Just Breathe Massage www.powellcountymontana.com/ Fri. 11am-9pm; Sat. 5pm-8pm Therapy deerlodge/ Butte Copper Co (406) 565-1239 2125 Harrison Ave. Deer Park www.justbreathe.amtamembers.com (406) 494-2070 Golf Course Kidz Klozet Mon.-Fri. 9am-6pm 838 Golf Course Rd. 2407 Harrison Ave. Sat. 10am-5pm; Sun. 12pm-4pm (406) 846-1625 (406) 299-2074 www.buttecopper.com Open Daily Wed.-Thur. 11am-5pm; See us on Facebook Butte Stuff Fri. 11am-6pm; Sat. 10am-6pm 55 W. Park St. 2 ANACONDA See us on Facebook (406) 565-1692 Lisac’s Tire Anaconda Mon.-Tues. 10am-4pm 2109 Yale Ave. Country Club Wed.-Fri. 10pm-5:30pm (406) 782-4294 1521 Country Sat. 10am-4pm Mon.-Fri. 8am-6pm; Club Rd. www.buttestuff.com Sat. 8am-5pm (406) 797-3220 www.lisactire.com www.anacondacountryclub.com Cavanaughs
Copper Village Museum/Art Center
401 E. Commercial Ave. (406) 563-2422 Mon.-Fri. 10am-4pm www.coppervillageartcenter.org MUSEUM
Dunne Communications Inc.
204 E. Commercial Ave. (406) 563-7115 www.rf-team.com
Glacier Bank
Member FDIC
307 E. Park Ave (406) 563-5203 www.glacierbank.com ATM
AVAILABLE
RFWave High Speed Internet
204 E. Commercial Ave. (406) 563-5333 Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm www.rfwave.net
County Celtic
131 W. Park St. (406) 723-1183 Tues.-Sat. 11:30am-4:30pm www.countyceltic.com
Lisac’s Tri Stop & Casino
Chicken Shack
Montana Broom and Brush
1601 Kaw Ave. (406) 782-0663 Mon. - Sun. 9am-9pm
Christina’s Cocina
2201 Silver Bow Blvd. (406) 723-8444 Mon.-Thur. 11am-8:30pm; Fri.-Sat. 11am-9pm www.christinascocinacafe.com
Derailed Bike Shop 120 W. Broadway (406) 490-9607
Glacier Bank
Member FDIC
ATM 1880 Harrison Ave. AVAILABLE (406) 497-7000 3701 Harrison Ave. (406) 494-3900 www.glacierbank.com
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2544 Harrison Ave. (406) 782-9359 Open 24 Hours
1245 Harrison Ave. (406) 723-6860 Mon.-Fri. 8am-5pm www.mtbroom.com
Park Street Liquors 133 W. Park St. (406) 782-6278 Mon.-Sat. 9am-8pm
Paul Bunyan’s
3150 Busch St. (406) 494-7817 Mon.-Fri. 10am-8pm; Sat. 11am-4pm www.paulbunyans.letseat.at
Pita Pit
1 N. Montana St. (406) 299-3658 Sat.-Thur. 10am-8pm Fri. 10am-9pm locations.pitapitusa.com
Rediscoveries
83 E. Park St. (406) 723-2176 www.rediscoveriesvintage.com
Taco Del Sol
146 W. Park St. (406)782-8226 Mon.-Fri. 11am-9pm Sat. 10am-8pm; Sun. 11am-7pm tacodelsolbutte.com
Uno’s Lounge
3235 Harrison Ave. (406) 494-0131 Mon.-Sun. 12pm-12am
Zobaney’s
2400 Harvard St. (406) 565-5657 Wed.-Sat. 11am-7:30pm See us on Facebook
4 DILLON Barrett Hospital
600 S. Highway 91 (406) 683-3102 www.barretthospital.com
5 BOZEMAN Bozeman Brewing Company
504 N. Broadway (406) 585-9142 www.bozemanbrewing.com
Outlaw Brewing
2876 N. 27th Ave. (406) 577-2403 www.outlaw-brewing.com
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
A year-round
WONDERLAND Georgetown Lake area offers wide variety of recreation
S
By PAT HANSEN
urrounded by spectacular mountain scenery, beautiful Georgetown Lake and national forest area is a fantastic year-round outdoor recreational paradise and a retreat from the demands of everyday life. The Lake, at 6,425 feet above sea level, is located 22 miles west of Anaconda on Montana Hwy 1, and 15 miles southwest of Philipsburg. It was created in 1885 by damming North Flint Creek to produce power; but is now used for outdoor recreation and provides water to down valley ranchers. Summer fun at Georgetown Lake includes camping, boating, fishing, wind surfing, jet skiing, swimming, hiking, backpacking, birding, wildlife watching, rock hounding, picnics and perhaps a concert at St. Timothy’s Chapel. There are four Forest Service designated campgrounds around the Lake at Stewarts Mill Bay, Piney Campground, Philipsburg Bay and Lodgepole Campground; Cable Mountain Campground is above the lake off Southern Cross Road. Lake View RV Park, restaurants, lodging and cabin rentals are available at the Lake or in the nearby communities of Anaconda and Philipsburg. Boating is very popular and afternoon breezes are ideal for small sailboats or windsurfing. For boating needs stop at Moose Marina which also has boat rentals or Lakeside Marina. The blue-ribbon fishery has large populations of trophy sized-rainbow, brook trout and kokanee salmon providing almost year-round angling. The lake is rather shallow with an average depth of 16 feet; the weedy bottom provides excellent cover and habitat for the fish. The lake is known for its excellent fly-fishing, but live bait and spinners may also be used. From April 1 to June 30 fishing is closed in a portion of the lake; but it is a great time to observe rain-
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bows spawning along the shore in tributary streams and at Emily’s Spring. In the unspoiled solitude of the Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest, there are marked trails suitable for every level from the casual stroller to trekker. In springtime, carpets of stunning wildflowers and a wide variety of birds add to the experience. You may also see moose, elk, deer, or big horn sheep, as well as other wildlife. An occasional bear may cross your path. It is a good idea to carry bear spray, a compass and GPS when hiking, and to let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return. Several trails accommodate motorized vehicles to access high mountain lakes and scenery. An abundance of game animals provides excellent hunting in the fall. Rock hounds may find treasure in area creeks, riverbeds and at old mine sites. Panning for sapphires is a great family activity at Gem Mountain on Skalkaho Road and at three businesses in Philipsburg. Winter provides other forms of recreation. Georgetown Lake is a favorite for ice fishing because ice forms and fishing begins earlier than at many other lakes; fishing is best in December, early January and again in March, but there are good days throughout the winter. Georgetown Lake is considered Montana’s best for world-class kite boarding on the frozen surface. Snowmobilers can enjoy the 120 miles of groomed trails and thousands of acres of back-country deep powder. Another wonderful way to appreciate the spectacular winter scenery is by snowshoeing and there are several maintained cross-country ski trails around Georgetown Lake with varying degrees of difficulty. Discovery Ski Area features 70 runs, a terrain park, and cross-country ski trails, something for every ability level. Regardless of the season, visitors will find recreational opportunities and will be refreshed by the peace, solitude and majestic mountain beauty that surround Georgetown Lake.
If you go Directions
From the east: Leave I-90 at exit 208 onto Montana Highway 1 and travel west from Anaconda 22 miles; from the west, take exit 153 onto MT Hwy 1 at Drummond and travel 27 miles southwest to Philipsburg then continue 15 miles to Georgetown Lake.
Boating and Fishing Supplies:
Moose Marina, 14411 MT Hwy 1 West, (305) 6758238: Boat slip rental, boat trailer parking and launch ramp; boat and canoe rentals, bait shop, fishing gear and licenses, camping supplies, food, and gasoline. Lakeside Marina, 14411 MT Hwy 1 West, (406) 563-3277 Fishing Regulations: http://fwp.mt.gov
Campground and Hiking Information and Maps:
US Forest Service Ranger Station, 88 Business Loop, Philipsburg 406-859-3211 Lake View RV Park, 14414 Montana Highway 1, (406) 563-3116; tent sites, water, electricity and sewer.
Lodging and Restaurants:
7 Gables Resort – 20 Southern Cross Rd., (406) 563-5052 Brown Derby – 13902 Montana Highway 1, (406) 563-5788 Rentals: Welcome Home Properties, (406) 5639555 or acmcf01@aol.com Whispering Pines Guest Cabin, (406) 258-6632, www.cabinmt.com Log Cabin Rental, (701) 260-4139 Grey’s Cabin, (650) 452-8505 There is also a wide range of accommodations and restaurants in Anaconda and Philipsburg.
Sapphire Panning:
– Gem Mountain; 22 miles west of Philipsburg on Skalkaho Pass Road, MT Hwy 38. Bring appropriate clothing, bug spray, sun screen, a hat, camera; and a picnic lunch if you want. Bottled water is available. In Philipsburg at stores on Broadway – Gem Mountain (406) 859-4367, Montana Gems of Philipsburg (406) 859-6725, and Sapphire Gallery 1-800-5250169 or (406) 859-3236.
Skiing and Snowmobiling:
Discovery Ski Area -180 Discovery Basin Road, (406) 563-2184, website: www.skidiscovery.com; 2,200 acres, summit elevation 8,158 feet; 70 runs; skiing and snowboarding for all skill levels, private or group lessons, ski and boot rentals, café and pub. Snowmobiling – Info: Anaconda Snowmobile Club, (406) 490-7281
St. Timothy Chapel:
2285 Southern Cross Road. Ecumenical ministry; Sunday services during the summer, chapel is open each day until 9 p.m.; summer concert series begins in June. Information: info@sttimothyschapel.org; 888-4074071 ext 10; concert and ticket info - www.sttimothysmusic.org
TOP OF PAGE: The sun sets on Georgetown Lake in this file photo. Steven Cordes photo
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OLD WORKS
A must-play course By MONTANA STANDARD Recreational opportunities abound near Anaconda but one that is right in town is Old Works Golf Course. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, Old Works is rated as No. 94 on Golf Digest’s “America’s 100 Greatest Public Courses.” It is one of the most affordable Nicklaus signature courses in the world. The course has an added attraction: It is the first course ever built on an EPA Superfund site. It was reborn where a century-old smelter used to roast copper. The copper processed at the smelter helped light up America at the dawn of the electric age. Now the course contains relics from its industrial past. Nicklaus incorporated historic relics such as granite slabs from the old mill into his design.
The slabs now sit on the banks of Warm Springs Creek, protecting the 10th green. Massive stone furnaces border the third fairway, while the 150-foot flue delivers a dramatic backdrop to the fourth green. Nicklaus made the course challenging. With five sets of tees at each hole, the course measures from 5,290 yards to over 7,700 yards. All the bunkers are filled with black slag sand. Slag is a byproduct of the copper smelting process. This gives Old Works its signature look. Many locals and travelers alike will be happy to find Chef Pete back in Jack’s Grill, the restaurant at Old Works. Chef Pete has gained a following for his signature lunches, breakfasts and meals for special events. Upcoming tournaments this
Al Balderas, The Montana Standard
Old Works Golf Course in Anaconda
year include the Copper Cup on May 31, the Old Works Amateur on June 22 and June 23 and Old Works Pro Am (professionals and amateurs) on July 8. Many local foundations and community groups like to host fundraising golf tournaments at Old Works. One annual event is the Jeremy Bullock Foundation Golf Tournament. The money goes to help children in southwest Montana. Old Works is a must-play course for golfers traveling through the region.
If you go Address: 1205 Pizzini Way,
Anaconda
General information:
Managed by Troon and owned by Anaconda-Deer Lodge County, Old Works is an 18-hole, par-72 public course spread across 220 acres. The club’s unique three-hole “Little Bear” course has two par 4s and a par 3 and is popular with families and with golfers who want a quick game. The Old Works practice facility includes a driving range with multiple target greens, chipping and putting greens and two practice bunkers. A wide variety of green and cart fee packages and passes are available. For details, see oldworks.org.
To book tee times:
(406) 563-5989
Old Works Golf Course
Al Balderas, The Montana Standard
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If you go Directions:
Bannack is 21 miles west of Dillon. Take I-15 south of Dillon to exit #59 (Highway 278 exit.) Drive west on Highway 278 for 17 miles. Turn south onto Bannack Bench Road and travel four miles, to the park entrance. The park is 5,837 feet in elevation and approximately 1,600 acres.
Hours:
Open all year except Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Summer Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Winter Hours: 8 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Visitor Center:
May and October: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends; Memorial Day to Labor Day: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. daily; public restroom, informational guides and trail maps, videos on Montana history and an assortment of Montana history, outdoor books and other merchandise for sale. Youngsters can ask to become a Junior Ranger! Information: 406-834-3413
John Phillips is a park ranger at Bannack State Park.
History lives at Bannack By PAT HANSEN The site of Montana’s first major gold discovery and Montana’s first territorial capital is off the beaten path, but Bannack is well worth the time to see the “Old West” come alive again. The history of the area is fascinating and you can spend hours exploring the 60 buildings in Bannack, which is one of the best preserved of all Montana ghost towns — being preserved and protected, rather than restored. A registered historic landmark, Bannack is the site of Montana’s first major gold discovery on July 28, 1862. The strike set off a massive gold rush that swelled Bannack’s population to over 3,000 in 1863, and the town was named the first capital of Montana Territory in 1864. As the easyto-work gold deposits were exhausted, the bustling population steadily declined. The town became a state park in 1954. The original buildings vary from oneroom log cabins to a multiroom wood frame house, a church, sod-roofed jail, saloons, blacksmith shop, a two-story combination Masonic lodge and school, stores and the Meade Hotel. At the edge of town is a gallows where the Vigilantes hung several highwaymen, including the sheriff — who was a lawman turned outlaw. Self-guided tours allow you to spend as much time exploring what and where you
want. The park is handicapped accessible, and pets are allowed on a leash. Wear comfortable shoes and allow at least two hours to explore the buildings along Main Street. Definitely get a guide booklet at the Visitor Center to learn about the history of each building - this is what makes it all come alive and an adventure enjoyed by all ages. Twice a year the town comes back to life on Bannack Days in July and Living History Weekend in September with re-enactors, demonstrations, music, food and numerous activities give visitors a peek at life during Bannack’s boom era. Every Saturday during the summer, entertainers, actors, workshop facilitators, and scientists give talks and performances that might include music, star-gazing, poetry or lecture/demonstrations, and this year there will also be a barn dance on August 10 with live music. Want to pan for gold? People of all ages can join in a supervised activity from 3-4:30 p.m. on weekends, and you keep whatever you find in the pan. Gold panning, mining and rock hounding are not permitted elsewhere in the Park. There are two cemeteries — one on the road into the park and the other on a hill above the town. It is a bit of a hike up the hill to the cemetery, but well worth it for a beautiful view of the town, the trails leading into town and the Hendricks mill on the far mountainside.
Campgrounds:
Open all year weather permitting with one tipi and two campgrounds, a total of 24 campsites, eight of which are available on a first come, first served basis. Several group day-use facilities for special events and occasions are available; inquire with park staff regarding availability. The campgrounds include vault toilets, grill/fire rings, firewood, picnic tables, trash cans, drinking water, and access to Grasshopper Creek for fishing. To reserve a camping space or the tipi call (toll free) at 1-855-922-6768 or on their website at www. stateparks.mt.gov
Events:
Summer activities: One-hour guided tours of the town at no charge the Visitor Center at 2 p.m. Monday through Friday; and 10:30 a.m. and 2 p.m. on weekends (may vary depending on events and staff availability). A 50-minute mill tour to a restricted area leaves the Visitor Center at 12 noon on weekends, or by appointment; $4 fee. Saturdays during summer months, entertainers, actors, workshop facilitators, and scientists give talks and performances that might include music, star-gazing, poetry or lecture/demonstrations. Bannack Days, July 20-21, celebrate pioneer life with historic displays, re-enactors, activities, food and music. Living History Weekend, September 19-22, exhibits, artifacts and demonstrations help you experience what life was like to live where the Montana gold rush began. Bannack Ghost Walks, October 25-26, a spooky reenactment of significant events in Bannack’s past. The ghosts come alive for two shows nightly at 7 p.m. and 9 p.m. Dress warm and bring a flashlight. Admission is $10/adults, $5/children age 6-12; not recommended for kids under 6. Each show is limited to 100 people, so reservations must be purchased in advance call 406834-3415; no refunds. Ice Skating, Dec. 26 (weather permitting) to first week of March. Skates are available or bring your own. Warming house hours are 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Hot drinks offered in the warming house.
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SOUTHWEST COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS ANACONDA ART IN WASHOE PARK July 19-21 Art in Washoe Park is one of the best shows in southwest Montana., with 85 juried art and craft booths from around the US. Ethnic foods and professional entertainment are offered all three days. This show is set up in a beautiful park with lots of room and a playground available for kids. Bring your lawn chair and enjoy hours of professional music and visit with your neighbor. Info at:cvmac.org. SMELTERMEN’S DAY Aug. 8-11 WALTER HINICK/Rediscover Montana Anaconda’s Smelterman’s Day CelebraLena Naipo leads Kahulanui a Hawaiian swing band at the Montana Folk tions are a beautiful throwback to our min- Festival. ing history and the people that created this beautiful town. The re-ignited event has now been extended to be more than a single day of celebrations including parade and festivities. Kick off happens on Aug. 9 with and ArtWalk, and then August 10 is the Smeltermen’s Annual BBQ and Brewfest. Music, a BBQ Competition and local area microbrews are on tap, too. Info at: discoveranacoda.com.
BUTTE FREEDOM FESTIVAL July 3-4 Butte is home to Montana’s most spectacular fireworks display launched from the base of Butte’s famous “Big M” on July 3, and the festivities continue July 4, with Montana’s best Independence Day parade. Info at: butteelevated.com. MONTANA FOLK FESTIVAL July 12-14 Since 2010, The Montana Folk Festival has been an integral part of Butte’s Festival Season. This free three-day music and cultural event features more than 200 musicians and other performers from all corners of the globe. Info at: montanafolkfestival.com. BUTTE 100 MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE July 27 Butte 100 Mountain Bike Race is Saturday, July 28. The nationally-recognized event includes a 25-, 50- and 100-mile all off-road race that draws professionals and amateurs alike. Info at: butte100.com. THE SERBIAN FESTIVAL Aug. 3 The Serbian Festival celebrates the food, music and dance of the Serbian culture, beginning at 11 a.m. Saturday, Aug. 4, at the Holy Trinity Serbian Orthodox Church, 2100 Continental Dr., Butte. Info at: eventsinbutte.com.
takes place from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. with 50 juried artist booths, live music, delicious food, face painting and an art raffle. Info at: ennisarts.org.
PHILIPSBURG BLUES, BREWS AND BBQ June 15 Blues, Brews and BBQ starts at noon Saturday, June 15, at Winninghoff Park in downtown Philipsburg. Info at: visitphillipsburg.com. THE PHILIPSBURG 46 July 13 The Philipsburg 46, a backcountry mountain bike race, is from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and combines a rugged riding experience with the western hospitality of Philipsburg. Info at: bikesignup.com. ROTARY SUMMER CONCERT Aug. 17 Gates open at 11 a.m. for the at Noon concert in Philipsburg’s Outdoor Amphitheater at Winninghoff Park, the bands set to play are Laney Lou & The Bird Dogs, Ryan Chrys & The Rough Cuts, and Shakewell Home Cookin’. The happens during intermissions. Food and beverages available on site all day. Info at: visitphillipsburg.com.
SHERIDAN
Walter Hinick file photo
Butte’s own Tiernan Irish Dancers perform at last year’s An Ri Ra Montana Irish Festival. AN RI RA MONTANA IRISH FESTIVAL Aug. 9-11 An Ri Ra Montana Irish Festival, Friday-Sunday, Aug. 10-12, at the Original Mine in Uptown Butte. Admission is free. Info at: mtgaelic.org. SILVER BOW COUNTY FAIR Aug. 19 Silver Bow County Fair will be held again this year at the Butte Civic Center. Info at: buttesilverbowfair.com. COVELLITE INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Sept. 19-23 The annual Covellite International Film Festival is set for late September this year in historic Uptown Butte. Info at: butteelevated.com.
held at the Powell County Fairgrounds, Deer Lodge. Info at: 406-846-2094; drafthorseexpo.com and Facebook. COOKIN’ ON THE CLARK FORK BBQ COOK-OFF AND BREWFEST July 28 Cookin’ on the Clark Fork BBQ Cook-off and Brewfest, 1-6 p.m., July 28, Main Street in Deer Lodge. Info at: clarkforkbbq.com.
ENNIS
SHERIDAN SUMMER FESTIVAL Aug. 2-3 A two-day event, the Sheridan Summer Festival is Aug. 3-4, on Main Street. Info at: rubyvalleychamber.com.
THREE FORKS HEADWATERS COUNTRY JAM June 13-15 Headwaters Country Jam will be at The Bridge near Three Forks again, bringing sun, fun, camping and great music. Headliners this year are Big & Rich, Kelsea Ballerini, Rodney Atkins, Mark Chesnutt, and more. Info at: headwaterscountryjam.com. ROCKIN’ THE RIVERS MUSIC FESTIVAL Aug. 8-10 The annual rock festival, Rockin’ the Rivers will be on The Bridge outside of Three Forks for a weekend of fun. Music this year is from Dead Fervor, Saliva, Warrant, Cheap Trick, Pinky & the Floyd, Adelitas Way, Dokken, Zakk Sabbath featuring the Viking Thunder God Zakk Wylde, and Whiskey River. Info at: rockintherivers.com.
TAP INTO ENNIS: BREW & SPIRIT FESTIVAL May 18 Unlimited tastings of brews and spirits from across the state of Montana. Happens May 18 in Ennis Lions Club Park. Early Bird Special admission is $25 and at event is $30. WHITEHALL Enjoy live music, food and silent auction. DEER LODGE Info at: ennischamber.com. FRONTIER DAYS July 26-27 BIG SKY DRAFT HORSE EXPO MADISON VALLEY ARTS FESTIVAL June 28-30 Frontier Days brings food, music and fun Aug. 10 Big Sky Draft Horse Expo will again be This fun family event at Peter T’s Park to Whitehall. Info at: whitehallchamber.com.
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SOUTHEAST COUNTRY
LARRY MAYER, Gazette Staff
Moss Mansion and the Western Heritage Center offer a chance to learn about Billings By MIKE KORDENBROCK mkordenbrock@ billingsgazette.com To understand the history of Billings, Montana’s largest city, it helps to first talk about the history of railroads. That’s the view of Kevin Kooistra, executive director of the Western Heritage Center, a museum and historical outreach organization located in the heart of downtown Billings. Montana had been inhabited by Native
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
HISTORY
Americans for centuries before Americans began taking over the land, motivated in part by a gold rush in the 1860s, more than 50 years after Lewis and Clark first explored the region. Montana became a territory in 1864 and a state in 1889. As Kooistra tells it Billings is among the last cities in Montana to be constructed along early Northern Pacific Railroad construction and land acquisition strategy which put tracks through
More information Western Heritage Center Address: 2822 Montana Ave., Billings, MT, 59101 Phone: 406-256-6809 Website: www.ywhc.org Moss Mansion Address: 914 Division Street, Billings, MT, 59101 Phone: 406-256-5100 Website: www.mossmansion.com
Please see HISTORY, Page 34
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33
Gazette Staff
Gazette Staff
Woodwork details in the dining room in the Moss Mansion at 914 Division St.
The dining room in the Moss Mansion is planned as the main scenery for the filming of Shane Patrick McClurg’s upcoming independent movie, “Oswald’s Dinner.”
History From Page 33
the middle of cities in accordance with a symmetrical plat design. The result is a city, founded in 1882, that has developed uniquely on either side of the railroad tracks, with the southern side having a significant industrial business presence. The arrival of the railroad and the rise of Billings came at the cost of Coulson, a town that once existed nearby along the river in an attempt to court business from steamboats. Coulson had a reputation for a rougher, rowdier way of life in the West, but the town eventually disappeared due to growth so rapid in Billings it seemed to be an act of magic, leading to Billings being nicknamed The Magic City. One of the 47 parks in Billings is called Coulson Park and located where the town used to stand. The symmetric layout of downtown Billings ultimately created an industrial corridor to the south that would become home to a diverse minority population driven in part by the needs of regional agriculture and industry. In its earlier years the city of Billings had a sizable population of German Russians, known as Volga Germans, along with immigrants from Mexico, Japan and China. Along Division Street stands one of the most spectacular holdovers from Billings’ past, a towering red sandstone structure known as the
Gazette Staff
Moss Mansion. The house was built in 1903 at the behest of Billings entrepreneur Preston Boyd Moss. Moss enlisted architect Henry Janeway Hardenbergh, the same man who designed the Waldorf Astoria hotel, to design his home, which is now on the National Register of Historic Places and has been featured in movies including “Return to Lonesome Dove.” Moss had five children and his son Melville lived in the mansion until the 1980s when he died. Some people believe the mansion is haunted by ghosts of the Moss family. The Moss Mansion has been maintained as a museum and event venue for decades and continues to offer tours inside, along with special programming throughout the year. Summer 2019 will include its first ever Kids Fest, in which children will have a chance to visit different booths staffed by educational outreach partners of the mansion. That event is slated for July 27.
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The Mansion is also planning to roll out a special display on stained glass windows, of which the building has many. The exhibit will look into how stained glass windows are made and include information geared towards children. The mansion has resident historians to lead guided tours, but also offers people the chance to take self-guided tours. “We’ve gotten such great feedback from people who love to come in and visit the Moss at their own pace,” said Jenna Peete, executive director of the Moss Mansion. The mansion does not have air conditioning and can get warm in the summertime. To cool off, people can stroll the grounds and visit the gardens maintained around the property. Over at the Western Heritage Center, people can join a variety of walking tours throughout the city that take place during the spring, summer and fall, including “Bars, Brothels and Bok Choy: Exploring Minnesota Avenue” and “Swords
Rimrock Park” which takes participants on a scenic walk to historic locations along the sandstone Rimrocks that border Billings. Several exhibits will be on display at the Western Heritage Center throughought the summer. One is the “Charles H. Barstow Collection of Crow and Gros Ventre Indian Ledger Art,” which is a display of drawings made by Native American leaders between 1879 and 1897, some of which depict their historic trip to Washington D.C. in 1880. One drawing is a map of Custer’s battlefield from a Crow scout. Two new exhibits in 2019 will highlight the work of Ben Steele, a beloved local artist who died in 2016. Steele fought in World War II and survived the Bataan Death March while he was a prisoner of war. Some of the art he created afterwards depicted the brutality and murder he witnessed. One of the exhibits “Prisoner of War: Ben Steele’s Personal Chronicle from Bataan to Hiroshima” will highlight that art. Another nearby, called the Friends of Ben Steele Show, will feature work from the numerous artists he taught and mentored over the course of his long life. The prisoner of war exhibit opens up May 14 in the museum’s basement. Friends of Ben Steele will be on display from June 7 to June 21. “You get the P.O.W. grind and horror downstairs,” Kooistra said. “The idea is you come upstairs and you’ll learn about this man and how much he influenced and impacted Montana.”
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Exploring the Pryors, Big Horns Island mountain ranges offer variety of views, trips
For more information The Bighorn National Forest can be reached by phoning 307-674-2600; Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area – 307548-2251; BLM’s Worland office – 307-347-5100; Beartooth Ranger District – 406-446-2103; Billings BLM Field Office – 406-896-5000.
By BRETT FRENCH french@billingsgazette.com Separated by the deeply carved squiggle of Bighorn Canyon, the Pryor Mountains in Montana and the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming share a geologic history that makes them beautiful places for hikers and backpackers to explore. The shared geology includes uplifted cliffs of limestone and sandstone that have been weathered into oddly shaped pillars and cliffs. Pushed up from the arid Bighorn Basin to the west and the plains to the east, the tops of these small ranges also can provide unparalleled views of the surrounding landscape on a clear day. And because of their location in the rain shadows of larger mountains to the west, the lower reaches of each range can provide early and late season hiking opportunities since snowfall and rain can be sparse.
This view of the Pryor Mountains looks north across Devils Canyon.
tains for about 50 years, relishing the diversity of the landscape. “In the Pryors you can hike from arid desert badlands to subalpine meadows,” he wrote in an email. Pushed to pick out a couple of his favorite routes, Walton identified the trail to Crater Ice Caveand the top of Big Pryor Mountain, an elevation of about 8,700 feet. The route is accessible from the Sage Creek Road on the east side of the mountains. The climb is steady, gaining about 1,500 feet in roughly three miles. Water is scarce so don’t count on refilling your bottle anywhere along Crater Ice Cave the way. Billings resident Dick Walton This hike may not be accessible has been hiking the Pryor Moun- until late June, depending on snow
Dick Walton
cover and snowmelt. At that time of year, though, the higher lands in the Pryors are blanketed with a variety of different colored wildflowers. “Botanists get excited because there are plants that grow there that are unusual or grow nowhere else,” Walton said.
Layout Creek
Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area. About 4.7 miles from the Devils Canyon Overlook on the left side of the road, which parallels the canyon to the north and west, is the old Layout Creek Ranger Station. The trail starts out as a gravel road before turning into an old twotrack that climbs about 1,300 feet in a little over two miles. The trail ends in a lush oasis provided by the creek gushing from the limestone. Views include the rocky surrounding canyon as well as looking south toward the Big Horn Mountains across Bighorn Canyon.
Another trail Walton recommends is the Upper Layout Creek More info Trail. Like the Crater Ice Cave Trail, no motorized vehicles are allowed Other hikes Walton suggested on this route. for variety include the Cave Ridge “Those hikes are both outstand- hike, which is short, easy and suiting,” Walton said. able for children, as well as primo Upper Layout Creek is accessed by driving into Wyoming and the Please see MOUNTAINS, Page 36
Much like Yosemite National Park in Wyoming, the Big Horn Mountain’s high peaks feature large slabs of granite. BRETT FRENCH, Billings Gazette
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35
Mountains
Before you go
From Page 35
during wildflower season. “The Bear Canyon, Rocky Juniper, and Big Sky hikes in the southwest Pryors are all excellent and any two can be combined for a loop hike,” he said. “They are accessible in spring and fall when other hiking areas in Montana are unavailable.” Walton is a member of the Pryors Coalition, which has built a website (PryorMountains.org) filled with information on the mountain range and the many hikes in the area. Most include photos and maps to help travelers decide where to go. In addition, the site has a driving geology tour for those not into hiking but who want to visit the area. Access to the mountains via the Sage Creek Road can be dicey in the spring, as the soft mud is continually rutted. By driving Highway 310 to Warren and then following signs to the Gyp Springs Road (No. 1015) automobiles can navigate to Crooked Creek Road (No. 1017) that bisects the west and east Pryors. “I encourage people to walk this fragile landscape gently and respectfully,” Walton said. “Learn about the diverse ecosystems unlike any other place. Smell the flowers — and learn their names and stories. Read the open geological textbook telling of a few hundred million years of how the Pryors came to be. Identify the birds — some of which are rare in Montana. Contemplate why the area is sacred to Native Americans. Leave it as you found it for others.”
Big Horns “The Big Horns are more like one big mountain — dissected by many canyons on its flanks — than it is a chain of mountains,” said Erik Molvar. Molvar spent much of one summer hiking the mountains to gather information for his guide book, “Hiking Wyoming’s Cloud Peak Wilderness.” The title is a bit misleading, though, because the book
BRETT FRENCH, Billings Gazette
On their western flank the Big Horn Mountains rise up from the parched landscape of the Bighorn Basin.
Dick Walton
June is a good time to find wildflowers blooming on the upper slopes of the Pryor and Big Horn mountains. Just don’t go too early or you may hit snow.
about six miles. From there, backpackers can turn southeast and cross Florence Pass (about 11,000 feet) before dropping into the North Clear Creek drainage. Hikers can also turn north at covers more than just the wilderMistymoon Lake and loop back to ness portion of the mountains. Like the Pryors, the Big Horns the trailhead via Lake Solitude and were lifted above the surround- Grace Lake. ing plains and had its canyons and mountains carved into scenic and North rugged sites. Unlike the Pryors the Big Horns contain a wilderness area Closer to the Montana border, that includes granite peaks Molvar Molvar said there’s no place quite compares to the well-known stone like the Medicine Wheel, which he cliffs and domes of Yosemite Na- likened to a Native American Stone tional Park. Cloud Peak is the high- Henge, or celestial and ceremonial est mountain in the range, topping site. out at 13,166 feet. The sacred circular feature is “The Big Horn Mountains are accessible by mid-July via Highway typified by shorter trails,” he said. 14 south out of Lovell, Wyoming. “The Cloud Peak Wilderness is re- Drive about 35 miles to Forest Road ally the only place where there’s a 12. Take the road about 1.7 miles to big unit of backcountry for multiple a parking area. It’s about a 1.5-mile night backpacking trips.” hike on relatively flat ground. One of those wilderness routes Molvar called it “one of the very high on Molvar’s list starts at Battle unique features of the Big Horns,” Park Trailhead on the west side of adding that “it’s a privilege to be the range and follows Middle Paint able to visit a site like this and have Rock Creek up to Mistymoon Lake, it accessible.” BRETT FRENCH, Billings Gazette
Trails into the Cloud Peak Wilderness like this one can be riddled with rocks. Wear stiff hiking shoes.
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The Pryor and Big Horn mountain ranges are rocky, so wear stiff-soled hiking boots or shoes to save wear and tear on your feet. Contact local forest or BLM officials for information on when snow may be melted enough to allow travel. That will vary each year. Also note that the temperature can change drastically from hot and shorts weather at the base of the mountains to cool and jacket weather near the top as you drive or climb upward. Practice Leave No Trace ethics and pack out all of the trash you pack in. Also make sure that campfires have been well doused and are completely out. Although GPS units are great for route finding, pick up a forest or BLM map as backup in case the unit breaks or the batteries die. Before traveling into the forest or mountains, always make sure you have air in your spare tire and a full tank of gas. Food, water, a flashlight, fire source and a sleeping bag — in case you have to spend an unexpected night out — are always handy items to pack along. If you want to be old school, take an ax, shovel and bucket. Sunscreen, bug spray, sunglasses, a brimmed hat, warm hat and gloves can also come in handy. Also, don’t forget your camera or smart phone for photographs.
On the way to the Medicine Wheel is another short, but much steeper, half-mile hike to 200-foothigh Porcupine Falls. On the northeast side of the Big Horns the Little Horn Trail provides a hike along the Little Bighorn River, one of the largest roadless areas in the Bighorn National Forest. Anglers might like this route, but they are also likely to see livestock as the trail provides a route for cattle and sheep to higher pastures. “Most of the Big Horn Mountains are open to livestock, which is something to be aware of,” he noted.
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Battle of the
Little Bighorn CASEY PAGE, Billings Gazette
Ken Woody, the chief of interpretation at the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, enjoys giving talks to visitors during the summer season about the iconic battle. A granite memorial at the top of Last Stand Hill lists the solders of the 7th Calvary who died in the Battle of the Little Bighorn. Courtesy Photo
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
Many ways to learn about battle during a visit to the national monument By SUSAN OLP solp@billingsgazette.com People who visit Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument have options. They can take a 4.5-mile drive along the edge of the battlefield, stopping at spots along the way to read signs detailing important moments of the battle. On that drive, visitors can pull out their cell phone and listen to audio descrip-
tions of various sites. Or they can park at the visitor center, take a look inside the shop and then peruse the small museum, which contains Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer’s personal effects, firearms typical of the era, information on the Indian scouts who were with Custer and a display about the Plains Indians. Or watch a video during the fall and Please see BIGHORN, Page 38
R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A
37
BIGHORN
If you go
From 37
winter, a 25-minute DVD titled “Triumph and Tragedy Along the Little Bighorn.” From Memorial Day to Labor Day, they can step outside to listen to a 20-minute ranger talk. All the talks follow the chronology of the battle, but each speaker shares their own insights. Also during that time frame, Apsaalooke Tours, run by the Crow Nation Office of Tourism and housed in the visitor’s center, offers tours. Tour guides on the short buses go into great detail about the battle, as customers look out the windows at the various sites in the battle. The easiest walk at the site is the 200-yard trek from the visitor center to Last Stand Hill, where Custer’s body was found after the battle and where a granite memorial lists the solders of the 7th Calvary who died in the battle. Visitors can also take in the nearby Indian Memorial, which commemorates the Sioux, Cheyenne and Arapaho warriors who allied in the battle to form the largest Native army ever recorded on the Northern Plains. Panels in the circular memorial also honor the Crow and Arikara scouts who served with the U.S. Army against their traditional, more powerful enemy tribes. The June 25, 1876 battle between Custer’s 7th Cavalry and a coalition of Indian tribes, under the leadership of Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, remains one of the most iconic battles in American history, said Ken Woody, chief of interpretation at the national park. “It’s the most studied battle in the United States, next to Gettysburg,” he said, sitting in his office at the visitor center. Woody, whose grandfather was part Mohawk, has been interested in the Plains Indian culture since he was a child “and the Little Bighorn Battlefield goes along with that because it’s an iconic battle
CASEY PAGE, Billings Gazette
Grave markers and memorials for both sides of the Battle of the Little Bighorn can be seen.
CASEY PAGE/Gazette Staff
Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument visitors’ center.
with important warriors, Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, and of course Custer is iconic.” Woody’s first post job at a national park was at Fort Necessity National Battlefield, the site of George Washington’s first battle in the French-Indian War. Woody thought he’d be collecting money at the gate. Instead he dressed up like a soldier and carried guns from that time in history. He also gave presentations about the battle. “When I got into that, I really loved it,” he said. He’s been at the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument since 1998 and still enjoys giving talks to visitors. The national monument draws 300,000 people annually from around the world. The peak months for visitors are June, July and August, with July the most popular. “We see 1,000 people a day in the summer,” Woody said, though the national monument remains open year-round. Its location at the intersection
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of Interstate 90 and Highway 212 makes it a natural stopping point for many travelers driving from Washington to Colorado or from the Black Hills to Glacier. But people come from as far away as Europe, including Germany and Great Britain. When rangers give talks, one thing they do is wade through the myths that surround the battle. “One is that Custer wanted to be president of the United States and just needed one more victory against the Indians to become nominee,” Woody said. “That’s not true, it comes from Hollywood.” He added that Custer played an important role in the Civil War, leading soldiers in 60 battles, “but Hollywood has put a different slant on him and he’s always remembered for this battle and nothing else.” For the Sioux and Cheyenne, June 25 is a national holiday, Woody said. “For them it was the greatest victory they ever had in the U.S.,”
The Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument operates year round, but the hours change by season. From April 1 through Memorial Day, the entrance gate is open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Summer hours, from Memorial Day to Labor Day, are 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. The entrance fee for non-commercial vehicles is $25; per person on foot or bicycle, $15; commercial sedan or mini-bus that seats six to 15 people, $40; commercial bus, 26 or more seats, $100. For more information about the national monument, go online to www.nps.gov/libi/index.htm.
Woody said. The battle claimed the lives of 263 soldiers and an estimated 90 warriors. Something newer at the battlefield are the 19 red markers that designate places where warriors fell. “Our historian, John Doerner, started that project,” Woody said. “Some families put rock piles where their loved one was killed or mortally wounded, though we can’t come up with all of them.” A new exhibit is in the works to better tell the story of the battle. It is expected to be in place by 2021. The exhibit will only be temporary, Woody said, because development of a new visitor center is in the works, possibly within five years. It’s been a longtime goal that may finally come to fruition. Those who visit the battlefield can also wander through the national cemetery, where white headstones dot the landscape. The cemetery includes veterans from the Indian Wars through Vietnam. On the anniversary of the battle, an event is held with special speakers. On Memorial Day, a ceremony is held at the national cemetery. And anyone interested in taking some history away with them will find a wall of books in the visitor center that details every aspect of that battle that keeps bringing people to the site 143 years after the battle took place.
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
SOUTHWEST COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS BILLINGS ALIVE AFTER 5 June 6-Aug. 7 Held 5–8 p.m. each Thursday through the summer, this annual outdoor music series happens at a different venue every week. Each evening combines live music, adult beverages, fresh food and favorite downtown locations such as restaurants, breweries and cultural venues. Info at: (406)-294-5060 or downtownbillings.com. ARTWALK - DOWNTOWN BILLINGS June 7, Aug. 2 Many fine arts and crafts offered for sale during the Downtown Billings Alliance ArtWalk, 5–9 p.m. on select Fridays. Host sites include galleries, art studios, businesses, a downtown Billings church, nonprofit entities, restaurants and other venues who value the creative spirit that thrives in downtown Billings. ArtWalk is “weather-resistant.” Info at: downtownbillings.com. SPRINGFEST AT MOSS MANSION June 1 This juried art festival features handicrafts and art by regional artists, antique booths, musical entertainment and a wide variety of refreshments. Pancake breakfast, artist demonstrations and lively musical acts are on the grounds of Moss Mansion, 914 Division St. Info at: (406)-256-5100; Mossmansion.com. MONTANA RENAISSANCE FESTIVAL June 1-2 Revel in the atmosphere of a 16th Century European Country Festival at ZooMontana, 2100 S. Shiloh Rd. Explore the bustling marketplace, attend a royal wedding, interact with costumed characters and enjoy full-contact armored jousting tournaments. Storytellers, musicians, jousters and villagers welcome all while the air fills with scents of foods and ale from the Renaissance period. It happens 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. Info at: montanarenfest.com. STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL June 8 Held 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the streets of downtown Billings, the long-cherished community event opens the summer season with a rich diversity in arts and crafts, interactive children’s area, fresh produce and strawberries, food-truck fare, live street entertainment and a 60-foot strawberry shortcake. Info at: (406)-294-5060; downtownbillings.com. HEART & SOLE RACE June 15 The 40th Annual Heart & Soul Race
BETHANY BAKER, Billings Gazette
Tessa Thompson of Tesseract Dance Collective performs at Montana Renaissance Festival at ZooMontana. features people of all ages and abilities. Choose from 5K, 10K or 2-Mile Health Walk; all start at St. Vincent Healthcare and are a fundraiser for the YMCA and Billings TrailNet. Info at: (406)-254-7426; heartandsolerace.org. MONTANA ACTIVE LIFE FESTIVAL June 15 Held before and after the Heart & Sole Race, this festival happens 8-11 a.m. at Dehler Park, home of the Billings Mustangs. This free healthy lifestyle event features live music, more than 40 interactive booths, kids’ events and family fun. Info at: (406)254-7426; heartandsolerace.org. SYMPHONY IN THE PARK June 23 Live, symphonic music comes to Pioneer Park for a relaxing evening while you sit on your blanket or lawn chair enjoying a picnic from food vendors. Take in the 4 p.m. Instrument Petting Zoo, 5 p.m. Billings Community Band Concert, 6:45 p.m. Young Conductors’ Contest and the Billings Symphony Orchestra Concert at 7 p.m. Reserved parking ($5) and reserved seating ($10) are available. Info at: (406)-252-3610; billingssymphony.org. SUMMERFAIR July 12-14 Yellowstone Art Museum hosts the region’s largest arts and crafts festival featuring some of the best artisans, craftspeople and entertainers in the area. More than 100 artists, community groups and food vendors are at Veterans Park, 13th Street West and Poly Drive. This year, the weekend event is open Friday night, 4–9 p.m. with live music by Mojo Cats at 5 p.m.; Saturday
hours are 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday hours are 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Admission is $3 for adults, free for children ages 12 and younger. Info at: artmuseum.org. BIG SKY STATE GAMES OPENING CEREMONIEs July 19-21 The Big Sky State Games happens again this year for its 34rd annual games held July 19-21 at Wendy’s Field at Daylis Stadium. There are opening ceremonies, a pre-games festival , and of course, games of all types. See the schedule online. Info at: bigskygames.org. MAGIC CITY BLUES Aug. 2-3 Bring your ID for this 18-and older Montana Urban Music Festival happening on the 2500 block of Montana Avenue with gates opening each day at 5 p.m. Info at: magiccityblues.com. MONTANAFAIR Aug. 9-17 MontanaFair is an agricultural celebration in the historic tradition of fairs. Held at MetraPark, the 9-day celebration has livestock, arts and crafts, a carnival and food. Stages provide entertainment that can include music, comedy, hypnosis, kids’ entertainment and variety acts. There are competitive events, entertainment and a PRCA rodeo event. Night shows feature internationally known artists. Info at: montanafair.com.
Reenactment happens 1-3 p.m. each day, with the Real Bird family showing troopers and braves as they rush through the Little Bighorn River, just as they did 140 years ago. The battle is held at Garryowen, a portion of the Sioux camp where soldiers are believed to have attacked the village. Info at: littlebighornreenactment.com. CROW FAIR CELEBRATION, POWWOW & RODEO Aug. 14-19 Crow Fair attracts more than 50,000 spectators and participants from the around the world. Celebration features parades, a four-day powwow, a rodeo and horse races. The largest Native American event in Montana has one of the biggest powwows in the country and is held by the Apsáalooke people of the Crow Indian Reservation just South of Hardin. Info at: crazycrow.com
HUNTLEY PROJECT THRESHING BEE Aug. 17-18 The South Central Montana Antique Tractor and Machinery Association sponsors this weekend of steam- and gas-threshing, and events for all ages. There’s static engine displays, plowing, hay bailing, binding, sawmill, blacksmith shop, tractor pull, parade, arts/crafts, food concessions and more. Admission is $5 per person, ages 12 and older. Info at: antiquetractorclub.org.
LAUREL FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION July 4 Laurel entertains more than 30,000 people, starting at the 6-11 a.m. pancake breakfast at Fireman’s Park, followed by The Chief Joseph Run that begins at Thomson Park with races set for 2, 4 and 8 miles. A Kiddies Parade begins at 10 a.m. at Western Security Bank and ends at Firefighter’s Memorial. The Grand Parade is at 11 a.m. A Food and Craft Fair begins at 9 a.m. and ends at 9 p.m. As soon as it is dark, one of Montana’s largest fireworks display takes over. Info at: laurelmontana.org
POMPEYS PILLAR
CLARK DAY July 25 Visit this historic sandstone pillar on July 25 the same date Capt. William Clark signed the monument during his travel down the Yellowstone River. Learn the pillar’s Native American heritage with presentations. CROW AGENCY Sponsored jointly by the Bureau of Land Management and the Friends of Pompey’s LITTLE BIGHORN REENACTMENT Pillar; free admission. Info at: (406)-969June 21-24 Real Bird’s Battle of Little Bighorn 5380; pompeyspillar.org.
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CENTRAL COUNTRY
REDISCOVER
M O N TA N A
RM
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 015
A window to a bygone era By TYLER MANNING tyler.manning@helenair.com
U
nderground Havre is illuminated through the sidewalks. Alert pedestrians may have seen the small purple squares of glass embedded into the sidewalk. These squares are a window into a bygone era and, literally, shed light on the history of the small Hi-Line town. Around the turn of the 20th century, the Havre underground was packed with people and businesses legitimate and nefarious. This Havre underground was known to house a brothel and at least three opium dens. During the 1920s the underground was used by bootleggers as a way to smuggle and store alcohol. However, this den of debauchery also housed some legitimate businesses in its time. A Chinese laundry, meat market, drug store and the Sporting Eagle Saloon all were among the up-and-up of the underground. Many of these businesses may have moved to the underground around 1904 when a fire devastated the Havre businesses district. Incorporated in 1893, Havre played an important role as a major supply depot for the Great Northern Railway. The underground was built sometime shortly after the city’s incorporation. Some claim it was built as a way to protect Asian railroad workers from persecution. A hundred years ago, Havre
Lee Newspapers of Montana rediscovermt.com
HAVRE BENEATH THE STREETS TOM BAUER/Missoulian
After a fire destroyed much of downtown Havre in 1904, businesses moved into what is now Havre Beneath the Streets in the steam tunnels below until they could rebuild.
was a very different place. Among the railroad workers were cowboys, mountain men and natives, which made Havre a colorful place. This network of tunnels, shops, residences and stores connected the rail yard to the majority of town and were used for several decades. Today, the underground operates as “Havre Beneath the Streets.” The Havre Chamber of Commerce restored a piece of the long forgotten underground and operates it as a historical attraction. The area is furnished with era-appropriate antiques and the stage is set for an accurate rendi-
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tion of the turn-of-the-century. Tour guides take guests through the area and describe the historical usage of the various rooms. The tour ends with a stop at the railroad museum, which features many antiques from the Great Northern Railroad. Tickets for the nearly 1 1/2 hour tour are $17 for an adult and $9 for a child older than 5. There are group rates and school rates. Tours are given from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven days a week in the summer and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Saturday in the winter. Special tours may be given upon request. For more tour information, call (406)-265-8888.
Though the railroad still travels through Havre, the town isn’t as large as it once was. It remains the largest town in Hill County and along the larger Hi-Line, which follows U.S. Highway 2. However, its distinction of being a halfway point between Seattle, Washington, and Minneapolis, Minnesota, is less important in the 21st century. What Havre does have is a very clear window into the culture of a frontier railroad town in the late 19th century. Havre Beneath the Streets provides a very unique perspective into this era and how different American life was just over 100 years ago.
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
SLUICE BOXES STATE PARK
a paradise for hikers and history buffs alike By TOM KUGLIN tom.kuglin@helenair.com Highlighted by scenic limestone canyons, Sluice Boxes State Park provides more than 6 miles of access to Belt Creek southeast of Great Falls. The park boasts 1,450 acres that run linearly along the creek, clear mountain water and deep pools popular with recreationists, trails that follow the waterway, and historic structures indicative of the area’s history of mining. “It’s such an amazing place – the thing that really stands out about it is that deep canyon cut by Belt Creek and that cold clear water,” said Coby Gierke, executive director of the Montana State Parks Association. Gierke first visited Sluice Boxes, named for the canyon’s similarity to the boxes early miners used to sift precious gold, with his family that ranches in the area, and was awestruck by the beauty of a place frequented mostly by locals. But with the expansion of social media, Sluice Boxes has become increasingly popular, said Colin Mass, the park’s manager. In order to better manage the park for a family friendly crowd, officials decided this year to prohibit alcohol. One of the major attractions of Sluice Boxes is the main trail made up of a converted railroad bed. The railroad once ran to the lead and silver mines of Niehart, but now hikers take advantage of the relatively flat surface to enjoy a walk along the creek. Along the trail are several relics of historic mining, including the mini-ghost town of Albright, which once topped 500 residents in the 1890s when miners worked the quarry. “There’s lots of history there like the old rail spur, the limestone
Photo Courtesy of Montana State Parks
Sluice Boxes State Park provides more than 6 miles of access to Belt Creek.
quarry and the old town site, and just all the old remnants of the mine like old rail cars,” Maas said. “So we do see a lot of visitors coming here just for the history.” The main entry to Sluice Boxes is along Evans Riceville Road, which provides the easiest access at the Lower Sluice Boxes Trailhead. The Upper Sluice Boxes Trailhead located south also provides access, and is known for the view. “Keep going on the country road and the overlook access, it’s a very scenic view from the west rim, there’s a waterfall that comes from a spring, and access to the railroad grade and a couple of the popular swimming holes and one of the cliff jumping spots,” Maas said. The trail is not without its challenges, including several creek crossings best made during low water. One old train trestle has been deemed unsafe and hiking the entire distance of the park currently is not possible. The foundation and the state are working on funding to do some upgrades in the park, including fixing
Photo Courtesy of Montana State Parks
Sluice Boxes State Park boasts large limestone cliffs along Belt Creek Canyon in Central Montana.
the trestle. The foundation hopes to tackle the trail at the upper trailhead, including installing some switchbacks and placing a bridge across a boggy area. Gierke says the foundation hopes to coordinate with the state to get a conservation corps crew to work on both projects at once, and that work could begin by the end of the summer or next spring. When water is higher, floating Belt Creek has become a favorite way to see the park for many. “It’s a beautiful float and fairly challenging and if you do it you need to be an experienced rower,” Maas said. Maas compared the float to a “mini-Smith River,” with a very short float window that can be dan-
gerous at high water and unfloatable in low water. He recommends anyone deciding to float to check the stream gauge within the state park, and that floating only take place when flows range between 300 and 900 cubic feet per second. Sluice Boxes allows camping, although there are no designated camping areas. To camp at the park requires a backcountry permit, available through Montana State Parks. Maas encourages anyone with questions about the park, the amenities or recreation to give him a call at (406)-454-5840. Reporter Tom Kuglin can be reached at 447-4076 @IR_TomKuglin
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mermaid shows
Tiki bar featuring live
is worth the trip to Great Falls
Mermaids swim in the background as patrons enjoy a drink at the Sip N’ Dip in Great Falls.
By THOMAS PLANK thomas.plank@helenair.com Situated on the plains just a short hop away from some of the baddest mountains in the American West, Great Falls may not be the first place people would expect to encounter mermaids and mermen. But they spend a lot of time in the pool behind the bar of the Sip ‘n Dip Tiki Lounge, which is the only bar in Montana that includes live performances by mermaids and mermen most days. Tucked into the O’Haire Motor Inn, Sip ‘n Dip has been a Great Falls icon since the 1960s. Built as part of the inn, the bar started with a Pacific theme that has withstood the test of time. It was named the No. 1 bar in America by GQ
42 R E D I S C O V E R M O N TA N A
back in 2003 and has been written about by the New York Times, which called it the “campiest bar in America.” These mermaids and mermen are, of course, people dressed in outfits made of an iridescent material that meets at the feet to look like a fish tail. It has been rumored that the original mermaid, Daryl Hannah, comes to visit from time to time. Along with fanciful mixed drinks, the merfolk add to the bizarre but enjoyable ambiance of the Sip ‘n Dip, as they circle behind the bar, wave at the people sitting around the counter, and push back up to take another breath. Another popular attraction is the elegant Pat Spoonheim, the Sip ‘n Dip’s resident pianist who has become an institution in her own right.
Tom Bauer, Missoulian
“Piano Pat” plays more irregularly now, according to the Visit Montana website. “Our beloved Piano Pat is 80+ years old and sometimes she just can’t make it. Please call ahead before you make a long drive,” a comment on the Sip ‘n Dip’s hours reads. The Sip ‘n Dip is located at 17 7th Street South in Great Falls. Hours are 11:30 a.m. to midnight Sunday-Tuesday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Wednesday-Saturday. Mermaid/mermen hours are: 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Wednesday 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Thursday 6 p.m. to midnight Friday 6 p.m. to midnight Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for the Mermaid Brunch - first and third Sundays
SPRING/SUMMER 2019
CENTRAL COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS CHOTEAU METIS MUSIC AND ART FESTIVAL June 14-16 Held at the Choteau Pavilion, the festival is based on celebration and preservation of the Metis. It includes indigenous arts, music, cultural foods, dance, historical preservation and an emphasis on the Metis (Michiff) language. Call (406)-371-7293 for information. CHOTEAU SUMMER FESTIVAL AND DUCK RACE July 3 Held at Choteau City Park, the annual affair features dozens of fine art and handcrafts vendors, along with tasty treats and lively entertainment. Call (406)-4662706 for information.
CONRAD WOOP-UP TRAIL DAYS June 7-8 The annual Whoop-Up Days at the Conrad Lions Whoop Up Rodeo Grounds is a two-day rodeo that also includes a parade, fun run, pancake breakfast, live entertainment and more. Visit www.northernrodeo.com for more information.
FORT BENTON FORT BENTON SUMMER CELEBRATION June 28-30 Montana’s “birthplace” community celebrates summer with a parade, arts and crafts, historical tours, free entertainment, street dances, a fishing derby and fireworks. Also included is a fun walk and run. Visit www. fortbenton.com for more information. the Drover Car bay-window caboose, a petting zoo, clas- (406)-434-7184 for more information. sic car displays, food by Electric City Concessions, and GREAT FALLS ULM music are part of this free event. Call (406)-236-5377 FIRST FRIDAY ART WALK BUFFALO JUMP HALF MARATHON The First Friday Art Walk is held on the first Friday of for more information. May 19 the month in downtown Great Falls, promoting galleries, LEWISTOWN Set for its 12th year along the rolling dirt roads of studios, businesses, artists and musicians. Call (406)this tiny town in central Montana, this race offers amCENTRAL MONTANA FAIR 453-6151 for information. ple unspoiled natural beauty for runners to look on as July 24-27 LEWIS AND CLARK FESTIVAL Enjoy two nights of PRCA Rodeo action, entertain- they make their way around the area formerly known June 14-16 ment by Darryl Worley and Little Texas, a demolition as the Ulm Pishkan State Park. Email bbrist01@ugf.edu Every June you have the chance to go back in time and celebrate Lewis and Clark, who spent nearly a month in derby and more at the Fergus County Fairgrounds. Call for more information. the Great Falls area on their way to the Pacific in 1805. (406)-535-8841 for more information. WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS MONTANA COWBOY POETRY GATHERING AND Call (406)-761-4434 for information. RED ANTS PANTS MUSIC FESTIVAL WESTERN MUSIC RENDEZVOUS MONTANA STATE FAIR July 25-28 Aug. 15-19 July 26-Aug. 3 The fun starts with a street dance downtown and runs The award-winning Bellamy Brothers will headline this Experience Montana’s culture and history at the Montana ExpoPark in Great Falls. Includes superstar enter- annual event featuring a slew of cowboy poets, western through Sunday with live music at the festival grounds tainment, carnival rides, a pro-rodeo, food vendors, musicians and artists. The event aims to celebrate and on the Jackson Ranch. Connect with good folks and cellivestock shows, stage acts, exhibits and more. Call (406)- preserve the history and heritage of the cowboy lifestyle. ebrate rural Montana. The festival is designed to bring people together and support the Red Ants Pants FounCall (406)-538-4575 for more information. 727-8900 for information. dation, which is dedicated to women’s leadership, workSHELBY MONARCH ing family farms and ranches, and rural communities. The festival was founded and is produced by Red Ants STREET FAIR, ART WALK AND CAR SHOW MONARCH ROCKS! FESTIVAL Pants owner Sarah Calhoun. It remains a home-grown Aug. 3 Aug. 10 This annual festival raises funds to restore the 1902 Enjoy good food, classic cars, art, music, lots of ven- celebration, run by a dedicated crew and 250 festival Monarch Great Northern Railway Depot. Crafters, tours of dors and children’s games in downtown Shelby. Call volunteers. Call (406)-547-3781 for information.
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MISSOURI RIVER COUNTRY
REDISCOVER
M O N TA N A
RM
S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 015
Lee Newspapers of Montana rediscovermt.com
Bryan and Brianna Shores behind the bar at Blue Ridge Brewing in Malta, one of the state’s newest craft breweries.
Erica Doornek, Billings Gazette
OFF THE BEATEN TAP Eastern Montana’s breweries foster a strong sense of community
By ERICA DOORNEK edoornek@billingsgazette.com
I
n the vast expanse of badlands and prairie that stretch across the eastern third of the state, watering holes can be few and far between. In the early homesteader days of Montana, springs and wells were a welcome sight for ranchers, towns sprang
up as water stops for thirsty steam engines, and a saloon could attract cowboys and roughnecks from miles around. Nowadays, locals and visitors alike still seek out a gathering place to wet their whistles. And in the last decade, they have increasingly developed a thirst for craft beer. From towns like Wibaux (population 600) to Malta (a whopping 2,000)
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microbrews have found a foothold in some of the most remote corners of rural Montana, and a growing number of upstart breweries are putting a local spin on the notion of the Old West watering hole. Jim Devine of Beaver Creek Brewery believes brews can draw people in, but the hospitality is what keeps them coming. “We help keep Wibaux on the
map because of the beer aficionados. We often hear people say that they can’t believe that this place is in a town this small,” he said. For Bryan and Brianna Shores of Blue Ridge Brewing in Malta, their enterprise couldn’t be any more rooted in the community. Their beers, and the brewery itself, take their names from geographical features in Phillips County, like Irons-
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If you go Miles City Tilt Würks Brewhouse 420 Pacific Ave. 874-8458 milescitybrewery.com/ brewery
Baker Old Skool Brewing 115 East Montana Ave., Suite B 778-6722 oldskoolbrewerymt.com
Wibaux
HANNAH POTES, Gazette Staff
Beaver Creek Brewery 104 Orgain Ave. 795-2337 beavercreekbrewery.com
Owner Ben Boreson pours a beer on Thursday January 12, 2017 at Busted Knuckle Brewery in Glasgow.
take, Camel Head, and Slippery Ann. The corrugated tin and reclaimed wood lining the walls were salvaged when a granary across the street was demolished, and the elk mounts and shed antlers that make up their taproom’s decor are the trophies of a lifetime of successful hunts. Hitting on a winning theme is sometimes as simple as running with the location. Old Skool Brewing resides in a converted 1920s schoolhouse in Baker, and Glasgow’s Busted Knuckle Brewing stuck to its roots as a vehicle repair shop, complete with mufflers, radiators and overhead garage doors. The owners of 1035 Brewing in Sidney turned their longtime video store into a taproom, but left the movie jackets on the shelves as a conversation piece. Eastern Montana’s breweries pride themselves on a more relaxed, family-oriented atmosphere where guests can bring their kids, play games, listen to a local band, or order a sit-down meal. Each town’s doctors, lawyers, policemen, teachers, and preachers often find common ground once they belly up to the bar. “The biggest surprise continues to be the variety of people who stop into the brewery and the distance they will travel to experience [the brewery],” said Connie Boreson of the Busted Knuckle in Glasgow. “We enjoy hearing everyone’s sto-
HANNAH POTES, Gazette Staff
An employee sets down a glass of Fender Bender Blackberry on Thursday January 12, 2017 at Busted Knuckle Brewery in Glasgow.
ry. It seems to me that the brewery is where locals become friends and visitors are no longer strangers.” And what about the beer itself? Graduating customers’ taste buds from “where’s the Bud Light?” to stouts and IPAs can be a challenge, but it’s not one small brewers shy away from. Dr. Mark Zilkoski of Doc’z Missouri Breaks Brewing in Wolf Point calls hefeweizen the “gateway beer” that can get reluctant craft virgins primed for a new experience. Blue Ridge’s Brianna Shores agrees. “You start out brewing some of the lighter stuff. We moved from the wheat being the only thing that was drank, to now, our most popular beer is an IPA that’s 7.9 percent [ABV]. If you get them to just taste it, sometimes they’ll be surprised.” From that relatively light jumping-off point, Eastern Montana drinkers have ventured into fruit beers, cream ales, ambers, and porters; or for the truly adventurous, beers featuring zany ingredients like jalapenos or mushrooms. Being surrounded by amber waves of grain doesn’t necessarily mean they end up in the beer,
but brewers always have an eye toward locally-grown hops and barley malted in Montana. Cross Country Brewing in Glendive puts a uniquely Yellowstone Valley spin on this idea, using local beet sugar in their housemade root beer. And once the grains and mash are spent, they are creatively recycled back into the community, becoming pig feed in Malta or dog biscuits in Glasgow. The entrepreneurial boom of craft beer has brewmasters constantly pushing for what’s next. “The evolution of the industry in 5 years has been dramatic, from the number of breweries to the development of styles,” says Travis Peterson of Meadowlark Brewing in Sidney. Meadowlark and Old Skool recently launched canning lines, and are regulars on the brewfest circuit. With almost 90 breweries across the state, the field may feel a bit crowded, but Eastern Montana’s taprooms are optimistic about the niche they’ve carved out. “I think what breweries stand for is community over corporation,” said Brianna Shores. “You’re so proud of where you come from, and it’s easy to play on that.”
Glendive Cross Country Brewing 320 E Allard St. 377-2739 crosscountrybrewing.com
Sidney Meadowlark Brewing 117 S. Central Ave. 433-2337 meadowlarkbrewing.com 1035 Brewing 1035 S. Central Ave. 433-3055 facebook.com/1035-Brewing
Wolf Point Doc’z Missouri Breaks Brewing 326 Main St. 653-1467 missouribreaksbrewing.com
Glasgow Busted Knuckle Brewery 303 1st Ave. S. 228-2277 bustedknucklebrew.com
Malta Blue Ridge Brewing 320 S. 1st St. E. 654-2855 blueridge.beer
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BLOOD AND
GOLD
Both have a place in history of Zortman and Landusky By MIKE KORDENBROCK mkordenbrock@billingsgazette.com
T
hese days the towns of Zortman and Landusky, nestled in the Little Rockies of Montana, have a reputation for recreation and small town friendliness. They are places that take visitors out of the bustle of the 21st century and into a world where things move at a slower pace and neighbors stop to chat. But that peace hasn’t always held sway in these small towns. There is both gold
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and blood in the history of Zortman and Landusky. The founding of Zortman and Landusky goes back to the late 1800s, when a heavy vein of gold was discovered by Pike Landusky and Bob Ormond. Zortman would take its name from Oliver “Pete” Zortman, a man who operated a mill in the nearby Alder Gulch. Landusky was named after Pike Landusky, a man whose life met a violent end at the hands of an outlaw who would go on to run with Butch Cassidy’s gang. In one version of events, Harvey Logan,
also known as Kid Curry, shot and killed Landusky after beating him senseless in a saloon as retribution for embarrassment he suffered at Landusky’s hands. In a 1994 article the Western Outlaw-Lawman History Association described how Curry had come for blood after Landusky had him arrested on assault charges. Curry, the journal claims, had been courting Landusky’s daughter without her father’s approval. Despite being badly beaten, the journal reports Landusky fired first, but either missed or misfired. Someone handed the
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unarmed Curry his gun and he shot back, killing Landusky in what eleven people at a later inquest verified was an act of self-defense. An edition of the Billings Gazette newspaper from 1895 tells another version of events. “They had been neighbors for nine years, but were enemies for some two years past,” The newspaper reported in an article with the headline “Another Montanan Killed.” “Because of these bitter feelings each carried a gun and a shooting scrape was expected by those who knew them,” The Gazette reported. Blood was finally spilled on a Thursday afternoon at the town of Landusky, then described as a mining camp. Before the fatal shot was fired, Landusky drew his gun first and with vicious intent. It seemed as if Kid Curry’s life had ended. “He shoved his revolver close to Curry’s face and snapped,” The Gazette wrote of Landusky. “But the cartridge failed, Curry fired a second later and Landusky fell, dying in 12 minutes.” This story of life and death and revenge between two embittered neighbors in a remote stretch of America concludes just two sentences later. “Landusky was about 50 years of age and leaves a family,” The Gazette reported. “Reports from the scene are very meager.” An unpleasant death also befell the namesake of Zortman. Zortman died of colon cancer in 1933. Destitute by the time he passed in a hospital in Big Timber, a small town in Sweet Grass County near the Crazy Mountains, he was buried in an unmarked grave— until he was exhumed in 2005. Zortman motel owner and history enthusiast Candy Kalal, her husband John, veterinarians from Big Timber and Malta and an undertaker from the town of Chinook were among the people who came together to find Zortman’s grave and, with permission from his surviving family, dug it up, so that his bones could be moved back to Zortman. Zortman’s old cemetery, with graves from the 19th century, is among the other interesting places to visit for the historically curious, Kalal said. The area’s fascinating past lingers, and locals embrace it. A white church upon a hillside is one of the first things visitors to Zortman will come across. It’s estimated to have been built in 1910. A guestbook at the church has been signed by travelers far and wide. On the opposite end of the spectrum between faith and sin, part of the old Zortman jail still stands in town. The wooden cell block that still stands is a popular attraction for people who like to have their picture taken with the small structure
that was built sometime toward the end of the 19th century. “As history goes, people have passed down that the last person supposedly in it was a judge that drank too much and was kind of ornery with the town” said resident Candy Kalal. “I’m not sure what he got in jail for but supposedly he was the last official resident.” That was decades ago, maybe more than a century. But Kalal remembers that story and many others. Kalal, who operates the Zortman Motel and Garage with her husband, said she loves the stories visitors and locals tell and the pieces of the past that connect the town to its roots. Part of her business is decorated with old photos and artifacts, some of them the remains of a museum that used to be in the mining town. A wildfire damaged mining operations in 1936. Mines in the area are estimated to have produced $125 million in gold by 1949 when they were shut down. Mining was active again in the area from 1979 to 1998. Located among the Little Rockies in the Missouri River Breaks Country, the area around Zortman and Landusky is popular for ATV motorists. Reservoirs fit for fishing are also nearby, along with a hot springs and the Missouri River, where people can fish for paddlefish, strange creatures with a paddle-like protrusion from their faces. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service estimates they have lived in North America for 65 million years. Threaded throughout the story of these towns and the land around them is the gold that has sent them through boom and bust. There are opportunities to pan the water for gold, including for customers at the motel. Kalal said they are willing to take interested customers out to a claim where they can still find pieces of gold. On Memorial Day the town of Zortman has The Big Dig, an event sponsored by the Yellowstone Gold Club with a pot luck, an auction and gold panning. One of the liveliest times to be in town is the Fourth of July, when a parade open to all takes off during the day. Later a community meal takes place before fireworks begin, lasting anywhere from two to five hours, Kalal said. “People say they love us because they said it’s like if they grew up in the 50s and 60s,” she said. “They said it reminds them of where they grew up, because everybody has time to talk, the pace is slower.” For some people one visit isn’t enough, according to Kalal. “It’s the weirdest thing. By the time they leave, they’re planning their next trip.”
More information Zortman Motel & Garage Phone: (406)-673-3160 Address: 395 Whitcomb St., Zortman, MT Website: zortmanmotel. webstarts.com Email: zortman76@mtintouch.net Info: The motel accepts reservations and also has RV park accomadations. Guests are allowed to pan for gold on the motel owner’s claim. Motel has laundry and other amenities. Owners have maps, information and advice for recreation and sightseeing in the area.
Buckhorn Store, Cabins & RV Park Phone: (406)-673-3162 Address: 143 Whitcomb St., Zortman, MT Info: The general store has groceries and other supplies, along with RV options and cabin rentals.
Miner’s Club Cafe Address: 10 Whitcomb St., Zortman, MT, 59546 Phone: (406)-673-3515 Info: This bar and cafe offers both eating and drinking options.
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CENTRAL COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Gazette Staff
Fort Peck Theatre
CULBERTSON FRONTIER DAYS June 7-9 Enjoy two full days of western hospitality and fun, including rodeos at the Saddle Club, Saturday parade, barn dance and concessions on the grounds. Info at: culbertsonmt.com. ROOSEVELT COUNTY FAIR August 7-10
Culbertson’s free event of traditional family activities food, crafts, plants, 4-H and FFA livestock auction, fashion revue, petting zoo, various vendors and fun run. Ranch Rodeo happens Aug. 10. Free noon meal Friday and Saturday. Info at: culbertsonmt.com/events. SADDLE CLUB WAGON TRAIN Aug. 31-Sept. 1 Local folks bring their “Old West” covered wagons or saddle horses for a ride.
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Imagine the working cowboy’s way of life 100 years ago. The weekend includes food, entertainment and hay for the horses. Info at: culbertsonmt.com/events.
me a Tenor” runs May 31-June 16; “Mamma Mia!” happens June 21-July 7; “The Marvelous Wonderettes” shows July 12-21; “Peter Pan” flys July 26- August 12; and, “On Golden Pond” is Aug. 16-Sept. 1.FriFORT PECK day and Saturday shows are at 7 p.m.; FORT PECK SUMMER THEATRE Sunday shows are at 4:30 p.m. Info at: May 31 – Sept. 1 fortpecktheare.org. This century-old theater runs national LONGEST DAM RACE favorites through the summer, with some June 15 shows on afternoons or evenings. “Lend All events for The 25th Annual Longest
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Dam Race begin at Kiwanis Park in Fort Peck. Entry fee is $25, $10 for children age 10 and under and $5 for each additional event. Events Include: 10K Run, 5K Run, 5K Walk, 1 Mile Run/Walk both competitive and casual and 10 Mile Novice Bike Race. All start at top of the Fort Peck Dam and finish at Kiwanis Park. Info at: glasgowchamber.net.
GLASGOW MONTANA GOVERNOR’S CUP WALLEYE TOURNAMENT July 11-13 Held at Fort Peck Lake and hosted by Glasgow Area Chamber of Commerce & Agriculture , this is Northeast Montana’s premier walleye fishing tournament. It has an entry fee of $300 per 2-person teams and day money for individuals, all of which have final payouts for top nets. Info at: montanagovcup.com. MILK RIVER CATFISH CLASSIC June 1-2 The “grand daddy” of the Montana Cats Tour is a nighttime event annually boasting a full 80-team field and more than $10,000 in guaranteed cash and prizes. Info at: montanacats.com. NORTHEAST MONTANA FAIR Aug. 14-18 The Northeast Montana Fair has a carnival, PRCA Rodeo, Demolition Derby and live music with national and local performances. It all happens at Valley County Fairgrounds in Glasgow. Info at: nwmtfair.com. WINGS ACROSS THE BIG SKY BIRD FESTIVAL June 7-8 Montana Audubon will host its 20th annual Wings Across the Big Sky bird festival at Glasgow’s Cottonwood Inn. The event celebrates Montana’s native bird species and typically draws hundreds of wildlife enthusiasts. Info at: mtaudbon.org.
MALTA 2018 PHILLIPS COUNTY FAIR Aug. 1-4 In addition to all the expected summer fair activities, music headliners this year include Casey Donahew Band Randy Rogers Band, as they play the Grandstand on Friday, Aug. 2. Info at: phillipscountyfair.com. THE MILK RIVER GOSPEL JAMBOREE June 28-30 Malta hosts this music-filled event organized through a nonprofit group founded
Runners cross the finish line at the Longest Dam Run in Fort Peck in 2001. Info at: mrgjamboree.org.
PLENTYWOOD SHERIDAN COUNTY FAIR July 25-28 This traditional fair and PRCA rodeo has all the entertainment you’d expect. Thursday is the Thursday and Friday offer the PRCA Rodeo; Saturday has the Mud Run, Pig Wrestling and Darryl Worley concert. Sunday brings the Bump ‘N’ Run at noon. Info at: co.sheridan.mt.us.
POPLAR POPLAR INDIAN DAYS Aug. 30-Sept. 1 Enjoy this three day Powwow celebration of native culture and traditions through dancing, food, crafts and fellowship. The public is welcome to participate or watch during the Labor Day weekend. Info at: fortpecktribes.org.
Courtesy
July 31-Aug. 3 The Richland County Fair & Rodeo ofMONSTER CAT ROUNDUP fers home-style events and rodeo acJuly 20 tion for 30,000 visitors each year. Info This Roundup is relatively new to the Montana Cats Circuit. This tournament at: richland.org. is held annually on the 3rd weekend of WOLF POINT July on the beautiful Yellowstone River. WILD HORSE STAMPEDE AND Tournament headquarters are stationed PARADE out of the Sidney Bridge and boundaries July 11-13 stretch from the Montana to North DaThis two-day celebration includes the kota state line to Elk Island. The event is limited to the first 60-teams entered. annual stampede and several parades. Cash prizes pay up to $1,500. Info at: Info at: wolfpointchamber.com WADOPANA POWWOW montanacats.com. Aug. 1-4 SUNRISE FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS See the oldest traditional powwow in July 13 Visitors can enjoy browsing displays Montana. It allows elders and younger of artists and crafters from many states generations to hold special ceremonies while taking in live music in scenic Veter- for naming of individuals and honoring ans Memorial Park. There is also a “writ- of family members. For the young peoers’ row” and free children’s events. Info ple, there are run/walks and outdoor acat: sidneymt.com. tivities. Open to everyone. Info at: wolfRICHLAND COUNTY FAIR & RODEO pointchamber.com.
SIDNEY
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Help Stop tHe Spread of InvaSIve SpecIeS Clean: Remove all plants and mud from boat, trailer and fishing gear. Drain: Pull your drain plug. Before you leave the area eliminate all water from your boat and gear. Dry: Allow time for your boat and gear to dry completely before launching somewhere else.
all watercraft must stop at inspection stations Your watercraft must be inspected if: • You encounter an open inspection station. • You are coming into Montana from out-of state. • You are traveling west over the Continental Divide. • You are launching anywhere within the Flathead Basin and your watercraft last launched on waters outside of Flathead Basin.
CleanDrainDryMT.com
: Protect Our Waters Montana : 406.444.2440
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