BK E-Magazine 26 Apr,2019

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it's free!

Read Through The Thai novels you need to read before you die Bro-Free Zones Tranquil beaches a stone's throw from tourist hot-spots The Lao Down Head to the Old Town for the flavors of Laos Body Positive Why Bangkok still struggles for diversity

Long Live Tkthe King NO. 761 APR 26, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

The

Breakfast issue

Tuck into Bangkok's earliest-to-rise restaurants

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4/19/19 6:10 PM


ADVERTORIAL

THIS NEW SKY BAR AT EMQUARTIER

BRINGS LATIN CHARM TO BANGkok The rumba and Cuba Libre are sure to make you sway. Bangkok nightlife has welcomed a sassy newcomer on the ninth floor of Emquartier’s Helix. Flamenco Bangkok is decorated under the concept ‘Without Passion, Life is Nothing,’ which is expressed in a veritable explosion of color and light. Live DJs will keep you dancing to Latin music all night, while the rooftop area offers a scenic view of the city. The spacious venue is divided into several zones designed to meet your every party need. Inside, luxurious, gold-rimmed antique sofas sit atop a sea of Persian rugs, with fringed lampshades and chandeliers glittering overhead. For a quieter and more private night, book a seat in the mezzanine lounge. Wiggle your hips to Latin, rumba, and samba beats at the

VIP zone’s live stage, or enjoy the 180-degree view of sunset from the outdoor zone. The bar’s dedication to a contemporary Latin vibe goes well beyond the name and the Spanish food menu. For the opening party, Brazilian jazz musician Buhonero Clandestino played alongside Thai star Fonthip Watcharatrakul, who got in the spirit with a performance of the famous song “Tango Flamenco.” Drinks also stick to the theme, with classic cocktails like Cuba Libre, Caipirinha and Maracuja Daiquiri. If you’re a barfly, order some tequila shots to wash down tasty tapas like the kingfish ceviche, chicken empanada, jalapeno poppers and more.

Flamenco Bangkok, 9/F The Helix Emquartier, 02-003-6006. Open daily 5pm-midnight. Facebook: Flamenco Bangkok


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Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Sub-Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

Thailand’s top translator on the Thai novels you need to read

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Video Content Manager Wanlop Rungkumjad Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jaruwan Suwandee Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associates Parinda Dermsripoom ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developer Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara Graphic Designers Assaya Dejkong SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writer Atiwat Uton Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Junior Sales Palita Nueangnit

06 cover

Mornings made easy with our guide to Bangkok’s best breakfast

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri

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Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon, Clara Howell

Skip the tourist traps and head to one of these beaches

travel

Interns Jidapa Kanogsirima

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

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Where to find us!

special feature

The Asia City Media Group

Here’s all you need to know about Coronation weekend

Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

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taste test

neighborhood

Hummus on trial

The other side of Asoke

Hokkaido dessert cafes form coalition to govern Thailand Bangkok—Thailand’s electoral impasse may finally have found a resolution, as a group of dessert cafes from Hokkaido have announced a coalition large enough to claim a parliamentary majority. Ringo Apple Pie, Gram Pancakes, Croquant Chou and maker of chocolate-filled fish-shaped croissants Croissant Taiyaki have brokered an 11th-hour deal with the Election Commission to claim the popular vote and run the country instead of any of the balloted political parties. A spokesman for the group explained: “Thais have made pretty clear these last few years that flaky pastry, creamy cheese fillings and wobbly stacks of souffle pancakes are a better reflection of their aspirations than politics. Reds, yellows, pro-democracy, pro-military—we can finally put these labels aside and unite under buttery baked treats.” The Election Commission, which has come under fire since the Mar 24 election for widespread irregularities at polling stations and unclear methodology, has welcomed the move. “The new constitution was always designed to allow for an outsider PM, we just never expected it would come from a group of dessert specialists,” explained EC chairman Ittiporn Boonprakong. “But the pastries are one thing people agree on.” The Hokkaido confectioners easily secured the needed support of at least two-thirds of MPs and senators under Section 272 of the charter, better known as the “outsider prime minister” rule, with Bangkok’s warring political factions quick to concede defeat. “Civil liberties are at an all-time low, our economy’s down the toilet, and the new constitution has proved dodgier than a Chiang Mai zipline operator. Having Hokkaido’s No. 1 makers of sweet baked treats in charge can’t screw up the country any worse than the junta did,” said a Future Forward member happy with the outcome. When asked what policies the bakeries have planned for Thailand, the dessert makers made no concrete promises. “We just think the country needs a really good Japanese bakery at its head for a few years,” said the spokesperson. “When a matcha soft serve specialist comes along, we’ll consider stepping down.” But the Hokkaido Group has met with some small opposition. Student activist Netiwit Chotiphatphaisal was captured at BTS Siam on Friday, silently reading an Uncle Tetsu cheesecake recipe, in what many are seeing as a symbolic act of defiance. Pheu Thai, meanwhile, were said to be in talks with Sapporo-based buttermilk biscuit creators Rokkatei, in a bid to establish a proxy bakery in time for the 2023 elections.

4/19/19 6:13 PM


upfront

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

HOT OR NOT

NORTHERN FOOD

Michelin has officially announced it’s extending its reach into Thailand’s north, with the 2020 edition of the guide (due around November) to feature Chiang Mai and its surroundings. And we’d love to recommend you go there if the city wasn’t still stuck in AQI’s “Unhealthy” air-quality rating.

Translator Mui Poopoksakul on the Thai novels you have to read INTERVIEW

The Sad Part Was by Prabda Yoon When I studied to be a translator, I already knew this would be the first book I would translate. It’s a collection of short stories about the lives of people in Bangkok. It won the SEA Write Award in 2001, which was also the only year of my adult life that I lived in Thailand. I picked this book up and my love for Thai novels grew. If you have never read anything by Prabda Yoon, this is the perfect starter book. Also check out Moving Parts [with English translation] and Bang Luang [no English translation]. Bright by Duanwad Pimwana This book won the SEA Write Award in 2002. I’ve just finished translating it—it should be out in a few months. It’s about a kid whose parents abandoned him, so he grew up with the community, raised by neighbors. It sounds like a sad story but the book also captures beautiful, funny little moments, as well as bravery. The writing style is plain and simply worded and each chapter also acts as its own little short story. I’m impressed by how the author is able to show the lighthearted aspects of life even during difficult times, how we manage to get past it all. If you like this book, you should also read Arid Dreams.

changes to first-person as Thien tells his life story. It’s about the struggle between humans and nature, with added supernatural elements and an undertone of anticolonialism. I’d really love to translate this book into English but the author is quite hard to contact as he never really uses a phone. If you like this book, also read Prak Nam Daeng.

Letters from Thailand by Botan This one is quite different to what I normally like. It’s from 1969 and is a fun read, quite a page-turner—the kind of book you’d take to the beach. It is made up of 100 letters, sent by a Chinese man who settled in Thailand to his mother back home. He tells her stories about his children, how he is settling in, portraying the life of the people of that era and the different values of each culture, such as work ethic and gender discrimination. At his core, he is a very decent human-being, he just has different values, which over time he is forced to confront because of things that happen to him and his family.

Chao Karaked by Danarun Sangthong [no English translation] Though his signature style uses a lot of big Thai words and a wide vocabulary, Chao Karaked doesn’t feel heavy and it still has a nice flow—it’s very beautiful. This book is set in a village in Petchaburi, the main character is a very old and respected monk called Thien. It starts off as a third-person narrative but soon

High five! In this year’s seven deadly days of Songkran, we managed 3,300 road accidents causing injury, with 386 of them fatal. That’s seven percent lower than last year, but it’s also 386 dead people. It’s also still 60 more deaths than we used to average before 2014. Maksym Kozlenko via Wik media Commons

Mui Poopoksakul, 40, is one of very few translators converting Thai novels into English. Her impressive education includes an undergrad degree in Comparative Literature from Harvard, a masters from Columbia Law School and another degree from the American University of Paris in Cultural Translation—plus a stint working as a lawyer in New York in between. Her four published books include a translation of Duanwad Pimwana's Bright due to release in the coming months. Here, she recommends her must-read Thai novels.

ROAD SAFETY

MAYA BAY The beach where The Beach was filmed spent the best part of a decade as a tourist hell-hole of selfie sticks, boat props and litter dropping. Thanks to a tourist ban one year ago, it’s back to being a haven of reef sharks, coral and crystal waters—which is why you can’t go there for at least another five years, as recently announced by Phi Phi National Park. Nice work!

PRESS FREEDOM Thailand is now ranked 136th in Reporters Without Borders’ World Press Freedom Index. That’s four places above our 2018 ranking. Don’t celebrate too quickly. That still puts our media independence in the “difficult situation” basket alongside Singapore and Brunei, countries for whom the “Chinese system of total news control is increasingly serving as a model.”

Mui Poopoksakul

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

4/19/19 6:28 PM


BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

GUIDES

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W H ISKY FOR VIKING S

Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life.

A VIKING-INSPIRED WHISKY FOR THE ADVENTURER IN YOU Inspired by the iconic Viking warriors of centuries past, Highland Park releases its new VALKNUT Special Edition single malt whisky, the second bottle of its VIKING LEGEND series in partnership with renowned Danish designer Jim Lynvgild. With an aroma of toasted vanilla pods, black pepper and tangy cloves and aniseed, VALKNUT makes a strong first impression on the nose. The flavor is delicately balanced with a sweet and spicy finish from Orkney-grown tartan barley — a drink fit for a warrior. Step back in time with a glass of VALKNUT Special Edition single malt whisky and feel the Nordic vibes. Only 80 bottles available in Thailand. www.highlandparkwhisky.com l

Facebook: Alchemy Wines & Spirits Thailand

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

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4/19/19 6:25 PM


cover | rise & shine

The

Big Breakfast Bonanza Wake up. It's time to check out Bangkok's earliest rising (9am or sooner) breakfast joints. By BK Staff Sarnies

Bangkok Trading Post

ARI / CHATUCHAK Behind the Bar Cafe

Also in the neighborhood: Bar Storia Del Caffe, 13 Ari Soi 4, 02-057-9448 (see SiamPhloen Chit); Makai, Ari Soi 4, 092-2787579 (see Asoke)

ASOKE

NEW Across the road from Chatuchak Park, this friendly cafe serves up espressos (B50), iced yuzu long blacks (B95) and matcha lattes (B75) as well as kitsch drinks like the strawberry and bubblegum-flavored Queen of Flamingo (B70). Inside, browns and oranges meet mellow blues for a chilled-out retro vibe—perfect for charging up before descending into Chatuchak chaos. Oh, and they go in for sustainability too, using biodegradable cups and straws, as well as offering a discount for bringing your own cup.

Breakfast Story

1058/104 Phahon Yothin Rd., 080-071-2123. Mon-Fri 7:00am-3:30pm; Sat 7:30am3:30pm; Sun 7:30am-noon

2/F Hair of the Dog, 593/27 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-258-1461. Open daily 7am-11pm

Common Room x Ari This minimal affair focuses on quality coffee. Beans come courtesy of top local roasters like Ceresia and Brave, with blends as well as single origins from Kenya and Colombia available as latte, flat white (B80), or hot and cold drip (B120). On top of the classic brownies (B75), there are brekkie dishes like mixed berry yogurt (B150) and scrambled eggs on toast with salmon (B140). Phahon Yothin Soi 5, 062-416-7746. Open Mon-Sun 7am-4pm. BTS Saphan Kwai

Landhaus

NEW

This German/Austrian bakery is known for its next-level bread and pastries, as well as its cute garden made for lazy days. The concrete and steel baking oven turns out wonderful wheat bread, which you can sample with the open breakfast sandwich (B140), piled with scrambled eggs, spinach, tomatoes and mushrooms. For an Austrian classic, get the cheese bread stick (B40), which is tangy and crisp with slightly burnt cheese. Enjoy with a piping hot Americano (B60) or a frothy cappuccino (B70). 18 Phahon Yothin Soi 5, 086-889-9210. Open Tue-Sun 7am-7pm

Pla Dib Around since 2004, this all-day diner still draws the crowds—so much so, we’d say breakfast is almost a no-go on weekends. If you can get your foot in the door, order the kai kata (eggs in a pan with chorizo and mash potato, B160), otherwise you can always get a grilled chicken sandwich (B260) to go. After 5pm, the place turns into a sushi and pizza bar—how Ari is that! 1/1 Areesampan Soi 7, 02-279-8185. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm; 5pm-11:30pm. BTS Ari

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Perched above Hair of the Dog craft beer bar, this all-day breakfast haunt (really, they’re open till 11pm) is all about comforting American/Canadian classics. They use all the good stuff like pure maple syrup, Greek yogurt, organic eggs, fresh fruit and French butter. Arrive hungry for the namesake Breakfast Story (B300), which is fully loaded with three pancakes, two eggs, bacon and country potatoes. Wash it down with a bottomless cup of American drip coffee (B80).

Chu Originally known for its churros and hot chocolate, Chu’s two locations also pack in crowds for breakfast offerings like eggs Benedict with bacon (B250) or salmon (B290), and scrambled eggs with cherry tomato salsa and Joe Sloane’s chorizo (B250). Of course, you can’t leave without a cup of the creamy, velvety, dark hot chocolate (B150). 2/F, Exchange Tower, 388 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-663-4554. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-9pm; Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. BTS Asoke

The Coffee Club Tucked away in Citadines Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 23, this Aussie-born, Thai-owned coffee chain is a calming blend of light woods, cushioned seats, hanging plants and pendant light fixtures. The all-day menu reads like the greatest hits of Western brekkie dishes, from poached eggs with avocado (B260) to the Big Breakfast (B395), with eggs, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes, hash browns and toast. Top off your food coma with an ultra-indulgent chocolate Nutella frappe (B180). Citadines Hotel, 37/7 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 065730-4929. Open daily 6am-10:30pm.

Feedpoint Cafe This humble neighborhood bakeshop is your go-to for homemade kettled bagels. Flavors span everything from plain to jalapeno to cinnamon-raisin (B40), which you can top with a condiment schmear (B30), or something off the menu—we love the smoked salmon-bagel sandwich, with cream cheese, onion, capers, dill, tomato and lemon (B225). 88/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-101-6335. MonFri 7:30am-7pm; Sat-Sun 8:30am-7pm

Iwane Goes Nature With an air-conditioned cafe inside and a leafy, cat-filled garden, this all-day spot is perfect for lazy mornings. Their uber-fluffy pancakes steal the show—try the indulgent Marron Five (B220), served with candied chestnuts and chestnut chiffon cream. Awake from your food coma with a Bulletproof coffee (B130), which contains coconut oil and butter—said to facilitate a gradual yet intense release of caffeine throughout the day. 14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-0350. Open daily 7:30am-11:30pm

Vita Cafe (Makai Acai & Superfood Bar) Vita Trade, the supplier of acai pulp puree to top restaurants like Roast, Broccoli Revolution and Brekkie, has opened its own superfood-laden cafe that specializes in, you guessed it, healthy, acai-based smoothies (B160) and smoothie bowls (from B160). Choose your base (almond milk, apple juice or coconut water), fruit combination and other trendy toppings like chia, flax seeds, goji berries and cacao. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 098-956-8461. Open Mon-Sun 8:00am-9pm. MRT Sukhumvit

OLD TOWN / CHAROENKRUNG Chata From a gorgeous glasshouse extension to Yaowarat’s colonial-style Baan2459 hotel, Chata serves serious coffee in a setting swathed in natural light. The house-blend (Thai, Indonesian, Ethiopian and Brazilian) can be dressed up with lime and bubbly cola in the Colapresso (B140). Get the pan-baked eggs with tomatoes and Chinese sausage (B120) and follow it up with the simple coconut cake (B75). 98 Phatsai Rd., 096-154-5049. Open daily 8am-5pm. MRT Hua Lamphong

Craftsman x Baan Ajarn Farang NEW The vibrant yellow neo-Renaissance mansion that was once the residence of Silpa Bhirasri, the Italian-born sculptor known as the “Father of Modern Art in Thailand” during King Rama V’s reign, has been painstakingly renovated as a cafe and gallery. It all makes for a very sophisticated setting for a round of scones

with tamarind and cranberry compote (B145/ two pieces). Slow bar staples like pourover and Aeropress (B150 each) spotlight single-origin beans. Try the “lemongrass latte” (B135) for something different. G/F, Silpa Bhirasri’s House, 153 Ratchawithi Rd., 086-688-5442. Open daily 9am-6pm

Eden’s With its NY and French bakery-inspired facade and painting-perfect rustic interior, Eden’s evokes a warm and cozy bakehouse vibe. The menu highlights rotating house-baked goodies (B90-160) like beer cake, carrot cake and lemon pie (go early or they’ll run out), as well as an English breakfast plate (served till noon, B260/B490) and a variety of toast (B110-190). To drink, there’s refillable coffee (B90), hot cocoa (B120) and Mariage Freres tea (B180). 7/1 Lan Luang Rd., 02-625-2000. Open TueThu 9am-5pm; Fri-Sun 9am-8pm

Kope Hya Taikee For a true Thai-style breakfast, visit the 60something-year-old Kopi, whose specialities like kai kata (baked egg) with minced pork and ham (B85) have stood the test of time. 37 Soi Samran Rat, Siriphong Rd., 02-6210828. Open daily 7am-8pm (except the last Tue of every month)

On Lok Yun This 80-year-old spot has a loyal following who come for the kanom pang sangkaya (bread with Thai-style egg custard, B28) and Thai-style American breakfast (B50), and stick around for the old-world atmosphere. The no-frills decor only adds to the charm, with wooden cabinets filled with tins of Milo from the ‘80s. Drinks like coffee and milk start from B22. Driving? Park at The Old Siam or Saranrom Park and take a stroll through the Old Town. 72 Charoenkrung Soi 4, 02-223-9621. Open daily 5:30am-3:30pm

Rue de Mansri

NEW

Breathing new life into a 130-year-old former tram station close to the Golden Mount, this charming hideaway is part vintage cafe, part photography studio. Enjoy their signature iced Marocchino (B75), an indulgent mix of chocolate, milk and espresso, or a refreshing Black Coco Mint (B75), paired with a fresh-baked ham and cheese or almond croissant (B45) made using dough sourced from Chiang Mai’s enduringly popular Nana Jungle. 417 Bamrungmuang Rd. Open daily 7am-5pm

Open before 8am

Open within the last 12 months

4/19/19 7:08 PM


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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

Sarnies NEW The hip Singapore coffee chain’s first fully-fledged Bangkok branch takes over a 150-year-old corner shop-house that once was a boat repair shop with brushed concrete, distressed brickwork and leafy plants. Beyond the excellent house-blend coffee (from B70), cafe-hoppers can delve into substantial bites like a healthy grain bowl (B350) or a sinful bacon and egg sandwich (B320)—hangovers have met their match! 101 Charoenkrung Soi 44. Open daily 8am-5pm

SIAM PHLOEN CHIT

Clinton Street Baking Company The Manhattan-hailing diner is known for its all-day breakfast and American classics, especially the renowned buttermilk pancakes— which the likes of New York Magazine and Lonely Planet have hailed as the best in the city. Here, you can expect all the top-sellers like soft-but-crispy pancakes (B280 for two/ B340 for three), buttermilk fried chicken and waffles (B340) and a variety of cakes (B180), as well as new creations like the popcorn rock shrimp (B240) with salad and cajun sauce. G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-1294861. Open daily 8am-10pm. BTS Siam

Crepes & Co.

BKK Bagel Bakery Situated right beside BTS Chit Lom, this is Bangkok’s go-to bagel spot. The New Yorkstyle bagels are boiled and baked daily. We dig the classic Reuben (corned beef, sauerkraut, gruyere cheese and Russian dressing, B250) and Loxstock bagel (smoked salmon with pepper, dill, onion and cream cheese, B225). Follow it up with some NY-style cheesecake (B155) and yuzu juice (B55). G/F, Maneeya Center, 518/3 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-254-8157. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-5:30pm; Sat-Sun 8:30am-5.30pm. BTS Chit Lom

Brooklyn Baker This is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle, nestled down a quiet soi at the entrance to Retreat on Vitayu spa. Grab a seat in the small garden and go classic with the American Breakfast (pancakes, bacon, sausages and eggs, B250) or try something a little more adventurous like the shakshuka (Middle Eastern-style poached egg, sausage and tomato, B240) or Baker rice bowl (B210), a spicy chicken salad topped with a fried egg. To drink, try the Cafe Club Con Miel (B100)— coffee with honey and cinnamon. 51/7 Soi Polo, Wireless Rd., 081-855-7090. Open Thu-Tue 8am-4:30pm. MRT Lumphini

Cafe Tartine We love this family-friendly spot’s French sandwiches made with crusty baguettes and simple but high-quality ingredients. You can also get a traditional Continental spread (croissant, coffee and orange juice, B99), croque monsieur (B200), or eggs Benedict (B240, SatSun only) and treats like the chocolate pumpkin pie (B100)—delicious, even for breakfast. 1/F, Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, Wireless Rd., 02-168-5464. Open daily 7am8pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Holey Artisan Bakery

Cafe Tartine

Sweet and savory crepes are the order of the day at this charming white house. Great service and a nice garden complete the picture. Try the savory crepe supreme (B325), filled with bacon, mushroom, cheese, Bechamel sauce and topped with an egg. The hefty brunch set (B565) gets you one hot drink, one fruit juice, yogurt and muesli, two eggs, pancakes and more. 59/4 Lang Suan Soi 1, 02-015-3388. Open Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 8am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

Also in the neighborhood: Pacamara, 1/F, A La Art, Chulalongkorn Soi 64, 099-746-9582 (see Thonglor/Ekkamai); Makai, G/F, Siam Paragon (see Asoke); Luka, Siri House, Soi Somkid, 094-868-2639 (See Sathorn)

SUKHUMVIT

dish classics, Western breakfast staples and sandwiches. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-005-0026. Open daily 7am-9pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Brekkie Despite the name, Brekkie goes well beyond breakfast to serve healthy, hearty dishes all day long. Ingredients like quinoa, avocado, spirulina, flaxseed, acai berry and chia seed dominate the menu in dishes like fried quinoa tom yum with diced salmon (B285), avocado toast (B240) and homemade cold pressed juices (B75). 6/9 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 083-656-6141. Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Casa Lapin x26 High ceilings, brick walls, big windows and low-hanging bulbs combine to create this loft-like coffee shop slash co-working space. Their house-roasted coffee will help you power through your work. Chow down on a range of breakfast and dessert classics.

This hip all-day-dining cafe at the foot of 137 Pillar Suites does baked items and sandwiches from the deli counter as well as international comfort dishes, namely Thai congee (B110), farmer’s omelet (Spanish-style pan omelet with boerewors sausage, goat cheese and roasted pimento pepper, B290), tuna tataki salad (B240), pasta (from B280) and pizza (from B290). Don’t miss their one-of-a-kind purple sweet potato cake, either. G/F, 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok, 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-079-7133. Open daily 6am-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong

245/12 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 091-720-1074. Open daily 7am-6pm. MRT Sukhumvit

Simple Chef Natcha Chatlaong’s charming organic restaurant not only looks the part but also makes for a healthy start to the day. Top morning dishes include the full English breakfast (B300), which is served in a big pan, and the quinoa, cauliflower and pumpkin frittata (B260). 235/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-2510. Open Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 8am-6pm. MRT Sukhumvit

Also in the neighborhood: Conkey’s, 49 Terrace, 49 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 083-0405911 (see Thonglor/Ekkamai)

Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-000-5546-4. Open daily 8am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong. 4 other branches in Bangkok

D’Ark This all-day breakfast spot rolls out pancakes (from B240), soups, burgers (starting at B390) and other comfort dishes inspired by local ingredients. Piman 49, 46 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-6627900. Open daily 7:30am-9pm. BTS Phrom Phong/Thong Lo

Bangkok Trading Post

Grab your morning bread fix at the two branches of this early-rising bakery where the bread and pastries are made from scratch, highlighting the use of unbleached flour, house-made sourdough, glaze and frosting. Don’t miss the Phet Mak Mak sourdough (kalamata olives, sharp cheddar and pickled jalapenos, B250) or the the NYP sandwich (Sloane’s beef pastrami, whole grain mustard, pickles and cheddar cheese, B400). The bakery also serves coffee (from B80) and cold-pressed juice (B100).

Gram Having recently moved from the riverside, this pink-tinged cafe now enjoys a more central location in Phrom Phong. Their brunch-focused menu is full of eggs, pancakes and sausages, all served from a small counter topped with a striking marquee light bulb sign. Highlights include the salmon scrambled eggs (B280) that will fulfill your morning hunger.

SATHORN / SILOM Akart Day

NEW

Taking over the well-preserved 90-yearold wooden house once belonging to Coffee Craftsman, this early-opening cafe is all about caffeinated specialties like Happy Day (B200), coffee with candle-smoked coconut milk, along with the Super Star All-day Breakfast (homemade toast with ham and cheese served with sausages and vegetables, B350). Save room for some carrot cake (B145). Yarden, 30 Yen Akart Rd., 02-249-0182. Open daily 7am-7pm

Serine Residence, Sukhumvit 39. Open TueSun 8am-6pm

Brainwake Cafe

»

Eden’s

If you’re not drawn to the leafy facade of this palatial diner, you will be by the display of Japanese pastries inside. Head to their library shelves and park up for the afternoon with a good latte, or enjoy the properly stocked bar. Food is a cheap and cheerful mix of Thai one-

Chu

Landhaus

Sarnies

NEW_CoverStory-BK#761-26APR2019-3.indd 7

Akart Day

4/19/19 7:08 PM


cover | rise & shine

08

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

Pacamara Coffee Roasters The fifth cafe from the Chiang Mai-hailing coffee roasters offers brunch dishes like smoked salmon eggs Benedict (B285) and scrambled eggs (B245) to go with the excellent slow bar coffee (B120-170), made using rotating beans roasted in-house. Do also try special coffees like the "snow cold" brew (shaved frozen milk on coffee jelly, topped with a shot of cold brew coffee, B130). Thonglor Soi 25, 02-048-5900. Open daily 8am-7:30pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Roast One Ounce for Onion

The Hass Bistro This two-story cafe serves up Hass avocados in every imaginable form and flavor. Try the creamy green fruit on bread in the vegan avocado toast with fragrant truffle butter (B145) and on a croissant with avocado butter (B60). For drinks, there’s an avocado smoothie (B155), of course, but we recommend a coldpressed juice like the Bloody Roar (B140): red apple, beetroot, watermelon and pineapple. 1/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 099-192-9626. Open daily 8am-10pm. BTS Thong Lo

Kaizen Coffee NEW Luka

The Corner This humble Mediterranean restaurant rolls out all-day brunch sets like Healthy (toasted muesli and yogurt served fresh fruits, juice, homemade bread and condiments, B150) and Le Parisien (Paris ham and emmental cheese in a baguette, B160). But we also dig the sandwiches—go for the croque monsieur (B190) along with a homemade lemon soda (B70) on the open-air terrace. 27/39 Soi Sribumphen, 02-679-8438. Open Wed-Sun 7am-10pm.

Luka This chic cafe zeroes in on down-to-earth comfort food like shakshuka (poached eggs in tomato sauce served in a hot skillet with slices of toasted sourdough, B320) and breakfast burrito with quinoa, scrambled egg, cheese, sausage, tomato salsa, avocado and “Thai chipotle” salsa (B310). Sauces, juices and pickles are homemade, while the produce comes from reputable names like Adams Organic, the Royal Project Foundation and Sloane’s. Casa Pagoda, 64/3 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open daily 9am-6pm. BTS Surasak

Not Just Another Cup This airy, two-story restaurant deals in a familiar combination of egg-focused dishes, prettily poured coffee and cold-pressed juices served in a daytime-friendly dining room. Order the Moroccan-style egg skillet in a richly spiced tomato sauce, served alongside some deliciously fluffy bread for dunking (B320). 75/1 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3464. Open daily 7am-7pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Rocket Coffeebar Bangkok’s stylish brunch pioneer is now down to its original Sathorn branch (plus a counter at MRT Thai Cultural Centre and the odd popup). Yet, the winning formula remains: wholesome food, freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The highlight has to be the delightful breakfast menu which includes dishes like the yogurt bowl (B240) and the now-mythical Rocket’s Benedict (B290), arguably Bangkok’s best version of this now-ubiquitous dish. 149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404. Open daily 7am-8pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Kaizen Coffee

Also in the neighborhood: Chu, Trinity Complex, Narathiwas Soi 3, 02-636-8685 (see Asoke); Holey, 39/17 Suan Phlu Rd., 086-408-9584 (see Sukhumvit); Bangkok Trading Post, Market Place Nanglinchee, Nanglinchee Rd., 02-2874165 (see Sukhumvit); Makai, Narathiwat Rajanagarinda Rd. (see Asoke)

THONGLOREKKAMAI Bourbon Street Claiming to be the only genuine Cajun and Creole restaurant in Bangkok, this expat favorite does New Orleans-indebted treats like eggs Benedict with crab cake (B370) and shrimp bisque (B195). Beware, these portions are huge.

Ekkamai’s all-white home of Melbourne-style coffee culture has relocated just up the road from its former home in Tai Ping Tower. Now with its very own standalone spot, the white decor and scientific coffee prep remains—try the Nitro Cold Brew (B150)—but cakes and pastries are now all made in-house. They also offer hangover cures in the form of Breakfast Burgers (bacon, egg, cheese and HP sauce on a brioche bun, B160) and jazzed-up BLTs (B220). 888 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 098-8316009. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Little Home Bakery Around since the ‘50s, this breakfast institution has updated its menu in line with current (read: hipster) trends. Paprika chicken waffle (B250) and ham cheese lava omelet (B180) lead the line. We’re just thankful the fluffy buttermilk pancakes (starting from B150) remain, served with a scoop of creamy butter along with banana, pineapple, bacon—basically anything you choose.

Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-381-6801-3. Open daily 7am-1am. BTS Ekkamai

413/10-20 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-185-1485. Open daily 7am-9pm. BTS Thong Lo

Conkey’s Bakery

One Ounce for Onion

Australian Michael Conkey’s farmers’ market favorite turned hidden Ekkamai enclave is the perfect spot to start your day with a daily-baked crusty baguette (B120) or buttery brioche (B380). What sets the place apart from your Amantees and your Maison Jean Phillipes, however, are unbeatable Aussie staples like sausage rolls (B120) and meat pies (B180). We’re also partial to the plump meatballs (B180/4pcs)—perfect for sandwiching between a ciabatta (B160). Keep an eye out for the recurring picnics!

All whitewashed walls, raw concrete floors and custom wooden furniture, this sleek cafe attached to hipster-favorite boutique Onion pulls in a fashion-forward crowd with its pastas, baked egg dishes and waffles. The weekend heats up with rotating specials like “Dirty Bird,” fried boneless chicken thigh coated with almonds, served with sweet soy sauce topped with pickles and red onions (B220). You can always rely on the beans of Brave Roasters, whether used in classic coffee offerings or put to work in more tropical-leaning experimental forms.

72 Ekkamai Soi 22, 083-040-5911. Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm

Roast remains high on most brunch-goers’ checklists, which means that, come the weekend you can face some crazy queues. It’s with good reason, too. On top of the great coffee, the menu packs genuine crowd-pleasers like the crab cake Benedict (B360) and smoked salmon with rosti matched with lemon creme fraiche (B320). The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-1852865. Open Mon-Thu 10am-11pm; Fri-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 9am-10pm. BTS Thong Lo

Theera This healthy, gluten-free, non-dairy cafe rolls out a rotating range of bakery treats like the tasty carrot chia seed cake (B130). Another pick is the salmon and mascarpone sandwich on gluten-free, house-made bread (B280). The smoothies are made with soy milk and coconut yogurt. Sukhumvit Soi 42, 090-506-2222. Open daily 9am-6pm. BTS Ekkamai

Tiny Cup Cafe This unassuming, vintage nook focuses on all-day breakfast, with highlights like tuna melt (B300) and egg with chorizo (B260). The Tiny Cup Breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, salad and coffee or tea (B420) is very serviceable, too. 411/2 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between soi 21 and 23, 02-712-5112. pen daily 7am-6pm. BTS Thong Lo

Toby’s This blond-wood picture reminiscent of Bondi cafes rolls out all-day Australian breakfast staples and specialty coffee. Recommendations include the egg mikado (B320), sourdough topped with two poached eggs, cured salmon and yellow hollandaise sauce, and the corn fritter (B290) with bacon, cherry tomato, baby rocket and avocado salsa. 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-712-1774. Open Tue-Sun 9am-10:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

Also in the neighborhood: Crepes & Co., 9:53 Community Mall, Thonglor Soi 9, 02258-2672 (see Siam-Ploen Chit). Luka Moto, 235 Thonglor Soi 11, 02-050-0469 (see Sathorn)

Toby’s

19/12 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-116-6076. Open daily 9am-6pm

Ekkamai Macchiato From a sun-dappled, mid-century modern house that looks as much a furniture showroom as a cafe, a bevy of baristas work their magic on blends and single-origins from local roasting bigwigs like Bottomless. To go with, forget eggs Benedict and opt for one of the rich and spicy Thai rice bowls (from B180). 6/2 Ekkamai Soi 12, 080-1699824. Open Mon-Fri 8am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm

Pacamara Coffee Roasters

Not Just Another Cup

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4/19/19 7:09 PM


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hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok

10

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

01

Up your vinyl game at Thonglor’s sexy new record store

RECORD STORE

Vinyl lovers now have a new spot to get lost searching for gems: Sex Record Shop, a humble but hip new store nestled on the second floor of Thonglor’s Seen Space community mall. Here, you’ll find an impressive range of new and used LPs, from classic names including Bob Dylan, David Bowie, The Beatles, Jimi Hendrix, AC/DC, Diana Ross, The Stylistics and Fleetwood Mac to ‘90s and ‘00s gems such as Radiohead’s OK Computer (B1,400) and The Strokes This Is It (B1,300) and contemporary acts like Fleet Foxes and Kendrick Lamar. There’s also a corner dedicated exclusively to movie soundtracks for cinephiles to drool over—think West Side Story, Flashdance, Saturday Night Fever and The Graduate. Second-hand records start from around B550 but you’re really more likely to spend double that. Also check out the store’s offerings of Crosley record players (B7,20014,000) before getting your caffeine fix at Brave Roasters (B110 for an Americano). 2/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2728. Open daily 11am-8pm

NUMEROLOGY

Dusit has revealed “Dusit Central Park,” its massive multi-use transformation of Silom-Rama 4. Here are the details:

B36.7 billion

The cost to build the new landmark.

440,000 sq meters

The total space the development will take up.

2024

The expected year of completion.

250

The number of rooms featured in the reimagined, 39-story Dusit Thani Bangkok hotel.

BEAUTY

FITNESS

SPEAKER

02 This four-story beauty

03 Lang Suan’s new

04 A personal coach to

emporium will feed your makeup addiction

private gym will kick you into shape

get the most out of your beauty sleep

One-stop beauty destination Beautrium has opened a new flagship store at Siam Square, and it’s h-ug-e. Occupying 1,500-sq-meters over four floors, the beauty megastore carries more than 1,000 local and international makeup, skincare, haircare, personal care and perfume brands—the first floor offers beauty products from the likes of Moschino x Tony Moly (B2,500 for cushion foundation) and local brand Merrezca (B590 for facial water mist), while the second floor is all about skincare and haircare products from drugstore brands. Siam Square Soi 7, 02-106-4881. Open daily 10:30am-9:30pm

Need help getting back into shape? Head to Tone Box, a private boutique gym where you can boost your fitness game with some one-on-one attention. The gym focuses on customizable personal training, which can range from weight loss and sculpting all the way to rehabilitation. Go once for a personal trial training session, which costs B2,000. If you’re hooked, private training sessions start from B2,850. Meanwhile, a 60-minute semi-private training session (max three people) starts from B3,500. 2/F, The Portico, Soi Langsuan, 082-161-1171. Open daily 6am-10pm

What: Sleepace RestOn Smart Sleep Monitor Price: B5,390 Why? You no longer have to wear anything on your wrist to keep track of your sleep quality— simply place this 50cm long sensor belt on top of your mattress at chest level, jump into bed and get sleeping! Pair it with the Sleepace app and the RestOn tracker will monitor your heart rate and breathing rate in real-time, plus it will score your sleep quality based on the number of times you wake up and turn over during the night, as well as give you tips for improvement.

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

ShoppingNews-BK#761-26APR2019-2.indd 10

BARGAIN BUY IT PHYA’S “KANKOON COLLECTION” These handbags are pure Thai glamor (from B19,100).

BIN IT SOCK SNEAKERS The “ugly sneaker” trend has peaked! It’s time to move on, folks.

DYSON Get B3,000 discount on Dyson’s V10 Absolute Big Bin vacuum cleaner, plus receive a free V10 Custom Wand (through Apr 30 at IconSiam branch).

4/18/19 3:39 PM


hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

NIGHTLIFE

05

Ed Sheeran’s finally here with a huge support act in tow

AMBAR POOL PARTY Cool down with a party by the pool, lively beats and fruit punch. May 4, 2pm. amBar, 8/F, Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02309-3000. Ladies free before 3pm/ B300 after, includes one drink.

BLAST POOL SERIES #0050 Summer is here and there is no better way to spend your weekend than drinking by the pool. May 11, 2-9pm. DoubleTree by Hilton, 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-6496666. B400 including one drink/B800 including one-hour free flow.

CONCERT

The time has finally come for multi-platinum-award winning singer-songwriter Ed Sheeran to return to Bangkok, but it’s not only sweet hits like “Perfect” and “Shape Of You” that you need get giddy over. He’s just announced his support act for the Asia leg of his Divide Tour: Japanese rock group One OK Rock. Since the band’s inception in 2005, the seven-piece have shot to international fame—in large part thanks to their single “The Beginning” (2012), which was selected as the theme tune for the live action movie adaptation of the Rurouni Kenshin manga and has so far amassed over 130 million hits on Youtube. Their sound spans alternative rock, emo, post-hardcore and pop rock. Ed Sheeran is currently one of the world’s most popular singers, thanks to his seven-times platinum debut album Plus, which included hits like “The A Team” and “Lego House.” Apr 28. Rajamangala National Stadium, 286 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 24, Yaek 18. B2,000-6,000 via Thaiticketmajor.

WESTIN POOL PARTY Spend the afternoon partying or chilling by the pool before hitting the club at Levels for an after party. May 11, 1-9pm. The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-2078000. B400 including free-flow from 1-2pm.

FESTIVAL Cr. Drew de F Fawkes

TOPROCK PRESENTS: “HIP HOP HOORAY” A night of throwback, old school hip-hop from the golden era of funk and soul. May 4, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200.

ART

COMEDY

06 Immerse yourself

07 Hit British comedian

in modern masters at this exhibit “From Monet to Kandinsky. Visions Alive” is a huge multimedia exhibition that promises a riveting, immersive experience of state-of-the-art HD projection, animation and striking surround sound. It centers around the works of 16 prolific artists including Degas, Modigliani, Mondrian, Monet, Rousseau, Renoir, Kandinsky and van Gogh to name a few. More than 1,500 pieces will be brought to life in a grand display alongside talks by scholars of European art, supported by the European Union, as well as the opportunity to try your own hand at painting while sipping on wine. Apr 26-Jun 16. 2/F, RCB Galleria, River City Bangkok, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24. Early-bird tickets B300 via Zipevent/ regular B350/ children B200.

IT’S A TRAP The first trap and dubstep music festival in Thailand featuring six hours plus of music. Apr 27, 6pm. GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama I Rd., 02-640-7000. B1,5001,800 via Ticketmelon.

Phill Jupitus promises a night of hilarity

From Monet to Kandinsky. Visions Alive

Phill Jupitus

British actor, poet, radio DJ and comedian Phill Jupitus is coming to Bangkok. He is best known for his prominent role as team captain on the enduring UK comedy panel gameshow, Never Mind the Buzzcocks—a program notorious for its dry, sarcastic humor, scathing attacks, and tongue-incheek approach to topical issues. He is also a regular face on the preeminent comedy panel show QI alongside Alan Davies, former host Stephen Fry and current host Sandi Toksvig. Jupitus is prone to hilarious storytelling based on the chaos of his own life, delivering adult topics in a childish and very relatable manner. His observational style of humor perfectly balances moments of silence with comic outbursts. May 4, 8pm. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-207-8000. Early bird tickets B800 via Ticketflap/standard B1,000/VIP B1,800.

11

B500 in advance via Ticketmelon/B600 on the door.

ART BEYOND AUTISM Tanut Suvanabhat, a 23-yearsold autistic artist, showcases his work guided by his older sister Chittakarn, giving a new perspective on disability. Apr 27, 6:30pm. Kinjai Contemporary, 44 Ratchawithi Rd., 089-815-3082. Free.

AT HOMES A solo exhibition by Orn Thongthai based around the word “home.” Through Apr 28, 11am-8pm. Yelo House, 20/2 Kasemsan Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd., 098-469-5924. Free. TIME FINE ART EXHIBITION How do you define time? Nine artists answer this question through fine art. Through Apr 30, 6-9pm. 333Gallery, 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng, Yotha Rd., 081-845-1371. Free. ANTHOLOGY Oil paintings by Thai artist Verapong Sritrakulkitjakarn that reinterpret characters in history in modern works. May 2-Aug 2, 10am-8pm. Sky Lobby, 23/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama I Rd., 02-100-1234. Free.

WORKSHOPS DRAW YOURSELF Learn how to draw a self-portrait led by Thai artist Somnuek Klungnok. Apr 26, 12:30-4pm. Lhong 1919, 248 Chiangmai Rd., 094-554-8883. Free. WASTE TO WORTH Create a bottle holder from your unwanted textiles and a non-plastic water bottle. Apr 27, 2-5pm. Model Market, Sukhumvit Soi 53. Free but advance registeration is required at bit.ly/2KaKaCY.

COMEDY TOGETHER FESTIVAL One of Bangkok’s biggest EDM festivals returns. Line-up TBA. May 3-4, 4pm. BITECH, 4343 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-726-1999. B2,895 for a two-day pass.

LIVE MUSIC LIVE AT JAM Four bands—The Greed, Scrum Syrup, Anatora 69 and Hey Bastian—perform live, covering an eclectic mix of Japanese grindcore, Japanese rap-metal, Spanish indie pop and Thai/ Japanese punk. Apr 27, 8pm. Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089889-8059. B200. FIVE NEW OLD The J-pop band will perform their R ‘n’ B and ‘80s sounds along with two local bands, Inspirative and Safeplanet. Apr 28, 8pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380.

MOMMY RANTS! An open mic comedy night that invites moms and moms-to-be to have a good old rant. Apr 27, 6pm. WTF Gallery & Cafe, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-6626246. Free.

SCREENING BANGKOK OPEN AIR CINEMA CLUB Screening of Goodfellas on an open air rooftop with popcorn and booze. Apr 26, 7pm. The Hive Thonglor, 46/9, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6062. Free for members/B150 for non-members via Eventbrite.

CONCERT

DANCE YOUR SOCKS OFF AT THESE THREE EVENTS

INTERNATIONAL JAZZ DAY 2019 A night of live, upbeat jazz performed by local talents, including Kridpongpan Jaisan Trio, Papapao, Coffee Break, Podchara Kumchaiskul Quartet and Forever Hargrove. Apr 30, 6pm. The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17. Free.

International Jazz Day 2019

Calendar-BK#761-26APR2019_New.indd 11

DIGITALISM The German electronic music duo known for hits like “Pogo” (2007) will make their Bangkok debut. Their unique rock-meets-dance sound has spawned electro remixes and re-edits of indie tunes like “Digitalism in Cairo,” a spin on The Cure’s “Fire in Cairo,” played at major music festivals like Coachella, Lollapalooza, and South by Southwest. Apr 27, 7pm. Beam, 1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. Early-bird B490/regular B590 on Ticketmelon.

TROYE SIVAN The all-singing, all-dancing Aussie pop star, actor and Youtuber known for nostalgic hits like “1999” (a collab with Charli XCX) makes his debut in Thailand. The singer made a name for himself on Youtube before he signed with EMI Australia and released his first album TRXYE in 2014, which peaked at number five on the U.S. Billboard 200. May 8, 6:30pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani. B2,000-3,500 via Thaiticketmajor.

4/19/19 6:35 PM


The Royal Coronation

KNOW YOUR HISTORY

Thailand’s Chakri dynasty monarchs At age 66, King Rama X is the oldest monarch ever to be coronated, while his father King Rama IX held the record for the world’s longest reigning monarch at 70 years.

Rama I

Here’s everything you need to know. By BK Staff

1782

Rama II

On Apr 4, His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn will complete his official ascension to the throne in the Royal Coronation Ceremony. King Vajiralongkorn inherited the throne following the death of his beloved father HM Bhumibol Adulyadej in Oct 2016, but requested a mourning period before his coronation. From events to road closures, here’s everything you need to know.

1809

31.5 million

The estimated cost of the coronation in US$

2.1 million

The estimated number of degree certificates personally handed out by King Rama X to Rajabhat university graduates since 1978.

500,000

The number of water bottles prepared for the coronation parade day.

400,000

The number of people expected to attend the ceremony

1824

2

3

The king will pay respect to deities and former monarchs at the Royal Plaza, Memorial Bridge, Phaisan Thaksin Throne Hall and the Grand Palace. A procession of 133 soldiers will carry the inscribed Royal Golden Plaque from Wat Phra Kaew to the Phaisan Thaksin Throne Hall in the Grand Palace. The king will pay homage the Emerald Buddha.

43 15 year reign

Rama III

May

NUMEROLOGY

46 27 year reign

4

Royal Coronation Day

5

Parade Day

The royal Purification and Anointment Ceremonies will take place at The Grand Palace using consecrated waters gathered from Bangkok’s 76 provinces. Next, the presentation of the royal regalia will take place at Bhadrapitha Throne, where the King will be officially crowned. His Majesty will then grant an audience with royal family members and officials, before being accompanied by 234 soldiers in a procession to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, where he will be pronounced the official Royal Patron of Buddhism. Finally, the Assumption of Royal Residence Ceremony takes place at Chakrabat Biman Royal Residence.

The inauguration of the king’s official name and signature will be followed by the re-establishment of the royal family members’ ranks. A royal parade will then be held around Rattanakosin for members of the public to offer their well wishes; the king will be accompanied by 1,368 soldiers and a marching band. This is expected to last three hours.

37 27 year reign

Rama IV

1851

47 17 year reign

Rama V

1868

6 His Majesty the King will make an appearance on the eastern balcony of Sudd hais avarya Prasad Hall. He will later grant an audience to foreign diplomats at Chakri Maha Prasad Throne Hall.

16 42 year reign

Rama VI

1910

age 30 15 year reign

Rama VII

170

The number of countries in which the coronation will be televised.

Later this year

1925

In late 2019, a royal barge procession will be held along the Chao Phraya River to Wat Arun during the Royal Kathin Robe Presentation Ceremony. As of next year, May 4 will become a public holiday for Coronation Day (Wan Chattra Mongkhon).

34

Constitutional monarchy introduced with parliamentary government.

The total number of roads that will close for the Royal Coronation

33 10 year reign

Rama VIII

Royal Draw An anticipated 400,000 people are expected to attend The Royal Coronation ceremony in Bangkok. In a population of 69.4 million, that’s over four times the crowd at Trump’s inauguration when weighted against the population (300,000-600,000 people in a population of 327.2 million).

Key parade day road closures

1935

10 11 year reign

Apr 5

Khaosan; Rachadamnoen Nok; Charoenkrung;Nakhon Sawan; Maha Chai; Dinso; Ram Buttri; Phra Sumen; Rachini. For a full list of all 34 road closures, visit bit.ly/2YFZWJj.

Siam becomes known as Thailand (“Land of the Free”).

Other key road closures: Rama IX

May 2: Chatuphon; Si Ayutthaya May 2, 5: Ratchadamnoen Nok May 2-6: Maharat; Ratchadamnoen; Sanam Chai

1946

19 70 year reign

May 3-4: Thai Wang May 3-6: Rachini

Rama X

May 3-4, 6: Na Phra That; Phra Chan May 5-6: Charoenkrung May 5: Dinso; Khaosan; Maha Chai; Nakhon Sawan; Phra Sumen; Rachini; Ram Buttri.

2016

64 2016-present

- Ascended age

King coronation-BK#757-22FEB2019_02_New.indd 26

4/19/19 6:38 PM


food & drink

13

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Ambience of Romance 3 restaurants that present romantic European dining experience Elements

How: The blue LEDs, Victorianindustrial furnisings, and city view fromthe 25th floor of The Okura Prestige Bangkok makes Elements a great place for a date. Their French cuisine with Japanese influences ismade with delicate finesse that shows off the elite-level produce on hand. 25/F The Okura Prestige Bangkok,Wireless Rd., 02-687-9000, Open Tue-Sat 6-10:30pm Get 15% discount for Citi ULTIMA or get 10% discount for Citi Prestige (limit 8 persons /card /table, invalid for group booking and blackout dates are applied) Today - 20 Dec 19

Savelberg

How: Precise. Elegant. French. Henk Savelberg does fine dining in the classic sense of the phrase. Service is impeccable and on the ball, matching the immaculate food. You can’t really go wrong in the romance department here.

J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain

How: Classic-meets-modern French cuisine (often drawn from the repertoire of Chef Jean-Michel Lorain’s award-winning restaurant at the Côte Saint Jacques hotel in Burgundy) meets with an opulent-yet-subtle dining room. Pearly white and purple tones set a romantic tone, while tables complete with lazy Susans add an Asian twist. To drink, the extensive cellar features pedigreed Old and New World vintages of red, white, rose and sparkling wine.

Elements

Sathorn Soi 105/1 (Ngam Duphli), 02-119-4899. Open Wed-Sun noon2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Mon noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm

Get 15% discount on food only (except lunch set menu and special menu by Chef Jean-Michel Lorain) Today - 31 Dec 19

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4/19/19 6:43 PM


travel | underrated beaches

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

14

Don’t Go There; Go Here Tired of saturated Patong and forever-ruined Jomtien? Ditch the tourist traps for these gorgeous, underrated shores just a few coves over from the holiday hot spots. By Kankanok Wichiantanon

KRABI

KOH KOOD

It only takes 10 minutes by car to distance yourself from touristy Ao Nang’s holiday crowds. Despite this being the beach from The Hangover 2’s wedding scene, the vibe here is relaxed and free of nightlife (which may explain why tourists stay away). Instead of chilling at a rooftop bar, earn the stunning views over Phang Nga Bay with a two-hour trek to the top of Ngon Nak mountain in Tupkaek National Park. Though it’s a little rocky for swimming, Koh Hong island is just a short longtail boat ride away.

Even by Koh Kood’s barely-scratched tourism standards, Klong Hin Beach in the island’s far south is a castaway cove of total isolation. Getting there is not an easy task—first, you’ll have to take a rough ride off the island’s main road, then head down a bumpy alley leading to the fishing village on the southeast coast of Ao Yai; look out for the sign to Ao Takian beach and you’ll be met with this tiny but flawless 400-meter-long virgin beach. Finally, chill out and do nothing, because the only activities here are sunbathing and taking a nice long dip in the blissfully clear water.

Instead of Ao Nang... Tupkaek Beach

Instead of Klong Chao... Klong Hin Beach

Ao Noi Na

Where to stay: The Tubkaak Krabi Boutique Resort (www.tubkaakresort.com) earned its place in Patricia Schultz’ world-famous travel book 1,000 Places to See Before you Die thanks to lush tropical surroundings and a calming Thai ambiance. A private pool villa starts at about B8,200 a night. Want to stay where they filmed Hangover 2? Book into the glamorous Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve (ritzcarlton.com/phulaybay) from around B15,000.

Where to stay: Don’t bother looking for fancy hotels. There are only bungalows operated by locals. Try Neverland Beach Resort (www.neverlandresort.com), a cute little spot with 14 sizeable, clean-kept rooms (from around B1,700/night) right on the beachfront. Alternatively, The Khlong Hin Beach Resort (089-0463005) is nestled in a garden of tropical palm trees, with all of its bungalows facing the sea (B1,500/night).

CHONBURI

KOH SAMET

Instead of Pattaya... Hat Nang Rum and Hat Nam Sai Uncrowded beaches dot the coast from Jomtien to the tip of “Ao Tua Gor Bay.” Thanks to much of the region being under the care of the Royal Thai Navy, Hat Nang Rum and Hat Nam Sai have remained free from development, with the latter only opened to the public two years ago. True to its name (which means clear water), beachgoers will discover a flat beach stretching about one kilometer towards a sea which is perfect for snorkeling (B200 per person for a 30-minute diving trip with navy staff). Just off the coast, the uninhabited islands of Koh Samae Sarn and Koh Kham have the kind of white sands and crystal waters usually associated with much further south. The navy only allows day trips for a fee of B200 for Koh Kham (best for snorkeling) and B300 (B600 for foreigners) for Koh Samae Sarn.

Hat Nang Rum and Hat Nam Sai

Where to stay: The only accommodation at Hat Nam Sai is the new collection of navy-run rainbow-colored bungalows, which cost B1,400 on weekdays and B2,000 on weekends (www.fb.com/namsaibeachresort).

Thong Takhian Beach

Instead of Chaweng... Thong Takhian Beach

Where to stay: Silver Beach Resort (silverbeachsamui.com) offers wallet-friendly bungalow-style accommodation (from B1,200/night) with beachfront views plus an onsite pool, bar and restaurant. For something more upmarket, we recommend The Crystal Bay Yacht Club (crystalbaysamui.com), a four-star resort located in the nearby Crystal Bay. The 200-sq-meter pool villa comes with three beachfront wooden terraces for just B3,355 a night. If ultra-luxe is your thing, travel down the coast to Silavadee Pool Spa Resort (www.silavadeeresort.com), whose ocean-front pool villas perch on a dramatic cliffedge, offering spectacular views, for a fancy price of B24,000 upwards per night.

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Set on the opposite side of the island from Sai Kaew’s party strip, Ao Noi Na is a long stretch of sand on Koh Samet’s northern coastline that doesn’t even make it onto many tourist maps. The junkfree shore and crystal-clear water could be from the Andaman Coast. The main reason to come here is for peace and quiet, but you can go knock back some cocktails on Sai Kaew pretty easily. Songthaew (pickup-truck taxis) cost upwards of B200 per ride, while it’s B300 per day if you want to rent a scooter to explore the island at your own speed. If the beach gives you cabin fever, most resorts offer island tours for about B500-600 per person that’ll take you snorkeling for manta rays just off the coast of Ao Phai, followed by watching the sunset at Laem Rhua Tak, a cape that’s only accessible by boat. Where to stay: Several resorts have taken root on the palm shaded shoreline. The young crowd tends to head for Bar & Bed Resort (www.barandbed.com. Sea-view rooms from B4,700/ night) for its industrial-cabana look, as well as the modish Samed Club (www.samedresorts.com/samedclub), where romantic beachfront cottages can be had for B8,000 a night. If you prefer quiet and luxurious, next door to Bar & Bed is Baan Ploy Sea (www.samedresorts.com/baanploy), a boutique hotel that tastefully blends contemporary with rustic. You can book the deluxe seaview room for B7,350/night.

KOH SAMUI

Connecting the two busiest beaches on the island, Thong Takhian Beach (also known as Silver Beach) is tucked in the enclave of a small bay with crystal clear water and huge granite stones rising from the sea. The surrounding dense tropical greenery contrasts beautifully with the turquoise sea, and thanks to its calm and shallow water, both swimming and snorkeling are possible here— stick to the northern part of the beach to avoid the rocky bottom. There are also a couple of kayak rental places.

Instead of Sai Kaew... Ao Noi Na

Klong Hin Beach

Tupkaek Beach

4/19/19 7:00 PM


travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

15

TRAT

09 Leave the world

08

behind at this mangrove island getaway

Hit up Hawaiian flavors with these fresh poke bowls

12

Hidden deep in the mangroves, Escape Life Koh Kood (www.fb.com/escapelifekohkood) does precisely what it says on the tin. This boutique homestay has eight rooms (from just B1,000 a night), surrounded by shallow waters and lush greenery. The interior’s modest wooden furnishings are made special by big, water-facing, floor-to-ceiling windows. Start your day with a leisurely breakfast, before enjoying some chill-time on the cozy terrace. Step up the tempo in the afternoon by kayaking or paddle-boarding through the nearby village, listening to the sound of crickets as the night draws in. For sunset, there’s a west-facing beach five minutes’ walk away.

14

CHIANG MAI

LAOS

10 This bakery is

11 Bask in natural

Flaky, buttery goodness—why isn’t every bakery dedicated solely to croissants? Next time you’re in the Lanna capital, head to Croissant Chiang Mai (www.fb.com/croissantchiangmai), where hand-rolling combines with imported Normandy butter to yield light and super airy croissants. It’s not all plain (B85) and pain au chocolat (B130), either. You’ll find jazzy flavors like rose (B130), chocolate houjicha (B130) and charcoal (B85); ones stuffed with Nutella and banana (B130); and even the ultra-thin vanilla croissant chips (B100 for 40g). With only a small bench out front, this is a grab-and-go kinda place.

Situated on a 160,000-sq-meter plot of land hugged by mountains, streams and rice paddies, Pullman Luang Prabang (www.pullman-luangprabang.com) is as serene as it gets. All that space means the smallest of the 123 rooms and suites is 42 sq meters (from B3,300/night), while the singular two-bedroom pool villa is 270 sq meters and comes with a garden that can fit up to 50 people. Facilities include a restaurant supplied with fruit and vegetables grown onsite, three pools, two bars, a fitness lounge and a spa. Occupy your time with treks through the forest, yoga sessions and feeding rescued elephants.

dedicated to next-level croissants

PHUKET

Located in Cherngtalay, The Bowl (www.fb.com/thebowlphuket) abounds in nutrient-rich, Hawaiian-leaning food—think poke bowls crowned with a rainbow of vegetables (B305) and acai smoothie bowls (B275) sprinkled with fruits, seeds and granola. Not-so-Hawaiian toasts, wraps, pressed juices and sweet treats like raw brownies and energy balls stick to the health-food theme. Go for an ahi tuna bowl (rice topped with tuna chunks, pineapple salsa, pickled ginger, crispy shallots and homemade ponzu dressing) or create your own. Acai bowls come in everything from the Hula Hula (kiwi, mango, banana, granola, pumpkin seeds, B275) to the Summer Vibe (tropical fruits, granola and coconut chips, B275). The tiny cafe seats only a handful of people, with decor that reflects the fresh menu—clean white walls, bronze wood furnishings and hanging ferns in pendant pots.

TravelNews-BK#761-26APR2019_New.indd 15

beauty at this vast luxury resort

4/19/19 7:02 PM


food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

16

HOT OF THE PASS

12

The Dining Room is no more: say hello to Paii IN THE HOUSE

After Fatih Tutak left The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn at the start of this year, we were left to wonder what this meant for the iconic institution, which had taken a progressively Turkish direction over his three year tenure as head chef. Now, French restaurateur Fred Meyer is on board, whose impressive portfolio includes, among many others, Issaya Siamese Club, Namsaah Bottling Trust, and now Paii. Meaning “to paddle” in Thai, this new modern Thai seafood concept pays tribute to the house’s founder, Luang Sathorn Rajayutka, who created Sathorn Canal, and takes over the entire House on Sathorn, including both the indoor and outdoor areas. Executive chef Joe Weeraket presides over a menu overflowing with local and international seafood. You can expect chargrilled giant—and we mean giant—river prawns in choo chee curry sauce (B1,650); French razor clams (B480), flambeed tableside with house-made XO sauce; soft shell crab with crispy, green mango salad, roasted peanuts and coriander (B380); and charcoaled Chonburi squid (B550) in a Thai sweet basil rub. You’ll also find elevated classics made for sharing, like the giant crab fried rice (B1,890), made with organic jasmine rice from Nakhon Pathom and topped with half a kilo of freshly steamed Surat Thani mud crab meat. The House on Sathorn, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000

Paii

OLD TRICKS

REAP IT

NORDIC SUMMER

13 This is Bangkok’s latest Japanese sweet treat obsession

14 Phrom Phong’s farm-to-table restaurant now has a natural wine bar

15 This experimental Nordic-British pop-up is only around until May

Siam Center has welcomed Bangkok’s latest Japanese sensation: Ringo. This tiny bakery welcomes snaking queues at its 30-year-old mother branch in Sapporo, all of whom want to get a taste of their single specialty—a legendary 144-layer flaky pie that envelops a delicious cream custard and sweet-yet-tart apple filling. With 11 branches across Japan operating under the name Rapl, and one branch each in Seoul and Bangkok, these pies are taking over with their buttery dough from Hokkaido and apples from Aomori province—perhaps the reason for the hefty B125/piece price tag. 1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm

Hot on the trail of the natural wine hype, Harvest has opened The Wine Room by Harvest, where almost 100 labels from Austria, Australia, France, NZ, Germany and Chile are served in a cozy, almost attic-like space. Prices range from B350-390 by the glass, while by the bottle, B1,750 will get you a crisp, refreshing Gelber Muskateller, Gruber Roschitz, Austria 2017 (or B350 per glass). At the higher end, it’s B6,900 for an Italian Sangiovase, Cabernet, Antinori Tigananello, Toscana IGT, from Tuscany. 2/F, Harvest, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-0762

Sathorn’s Nordic-British pop-up, Kasnäs a Little While (next to Smooth Life Tower, 44 North Sathorn Rd., 093-824-9695), is part of a year-long experiment that will see its cubic wooden digs metamorphosize over the coming months. For now, the weekly-changing lunch (Wed-Fri, 12-2pm), brunch (Sat-Sun, 10am-3pm) and eight-course tasting dinner (Thu-Fri, B3,000/person, plus B1,900 for wine pairing) menus play with Nordic techniques in the likes of cured salmon tartare (B250) with avocado and egg yolk, and kombucha (fermented tea, B100). 44 North Sathorn Rd., 093-824-9695

SWEET TEXAS Soi Nana’s Chinese bar, Ba Hao, has just welcomed a sweet little sister named Ba Hao Tian Mi. Situated on Soi Texas, this striking dessert shop looks worth a visit just for the selfie. It’s currently in soft opening—watch this space for updates.

LUNCH WITH LOLA The playful American-Italian sibling of smash-hit bistro Cocotte, Lola by Cocotte, is now open for lunch (11am-3pm), offering three courses for a bargain price of B340— order the Italian salad, cheeseburger and lemon pie and that’s a whopping saving of B550!

SUMMER’S HERE R.Haan’s celeb chef Chumpol Jangprai revives Ayutthaya-era (13501767) palace recipes for his new summer menu— coconut smoked sausage (B350), Korat beef green curry (B590) and aromatic khao chae (rice in jasmine scented water, B712).

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

“Obviously BK doesn’t eat at Sirocco, New York Steakhouse, Vertigo or The Rib Room where you won’t get much change out of B20,000.” FB USER NIGEL JOEY LEGGETT ON BK’S NEW RESTAURANT PRICE RATING SCALE

F&BNews-BK#761-26APR2019 16

“I was just offered a plastic bag for a pack of pocket sized tissues this morning.” FB USER KITTY CHIRAPONGSE ON BK’S “7-ELEVEN BANS PLASTIC BAGS” APRIL FOOL

“Are you mad calling these drinks craft?” FB USER TAWEECHAI THONGROD ON BK’S CONVENIENCE STORE “CRAFT BEER” TASTE TEST

4/18/19 3:33 PM


dining reviews—breakfast edition

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

17

Holey Bakery Suanplu

Holey Bakery Suanplu HHHH 245/12 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-101-1427. Open Tue-Sun 7am-7pm. BB

Let’s get this out of the way right now. B400 is an insane price to pay for an avocado sandwich. It’s the price of 10 street-side pad kapraos. It’s 10 percent of the monthly rent at our old Victory Monument apartment. It’s the price of one cocktail in… alright maybe that’s not the best example. But if B400 avocado sandwiches have a place in your heart, then take it from us: there’s none we’d rather eat than this Bangladesh-born bakery’s oozing treat of toasty brown bread and citrusy, creamy guacamole. It’s redemption for every time in Bangkok you’ve been served a schmear of green paste on a hunk of ciabatta that should’ve been thrown to the ducks yesterday. It’s an avocado sandwich that doesn’t make you get your phone out, google avo’ sandwiches in Melbourne and say, why can’t Bangkok do that? If you’re not into avocado, there are other ways to spend your money here. How about a B2,000 whole cheesecake, or maybe a B400 heirloom tomato salad? Coming to Holey can sting, but that’s because they do the job properly.

Breakfast Story HHH 2/F, Hair of the Dog, 593/27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1461. Open daily 7am-11pm. B-BB

Navigating the dark staircase to Hair of the Dog beer bar’s second floor can be tricky, but you’ll be rewarded with this homey, intimate all-day-dining spot, where American breakfast dreams come true. Strings of fairy lights hang over warm wood tables that are regularly filled with early morning crowds, as vintage posters, colorful home knick-knacks and ‘80s background music coalesce for an eclectic but welcoming vibe. Let the tantalizing scents from the open kitchen guide you through their extensive line-up of morning classics, from the loaded Breakfast Story’s (B300) triple stack of billowy pancakes, seasoned pan-fried potatoes, scrambled eggs and crispy bacon strips, to the Full Stack’s (B250) pile of four spongey, plate-sized pancakes that breathe in maple syrup as if they have life of their own—though they may not quite live up to the legendary buttery standards of

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

DiningReview-BK#761-26APR2019.indd 17

Those heirloom tomatoes will be little bursts of piquant field freshness, while the olive oil (Spanish, extra virgin, early harvest) is good enough to drink. Bread is where the place really shines, thanks to owner Alam Porag’s fanatical approach to baking. He has the unbleached flour milled to specific requirements that we’re told give his sourdough that perfectly aerated interior and chewy-in-agood-way crust. All we know is it works. We also have a few workarounds for the worst of the prices. Tip no. 1: a heftily portioned B300 bowl of pork and beef meatballs swimming in tangy stewed tomatoes, drizzles of good oil and a fistful of cheese—good enough to share. Tips no. 2 and 3: the B120 English sausage rolls (a flaky orgy of juicy meat and buttery pastry) and an entire caramel drizzle cake that’s a mere snip at B200. In fact the glass display cabinet is an array of affordable treats, from frosted Berliners (B75) to Latin beef puffs (B100) to triple chocolate cookies (B40). They all taste superb. You enjoy all this amid Ibiza lounge music and new-age wooden light sculptures alongside 30 somethings with Havaianas and MacBooks. The coffee’s decent if not groundbreaking, and they even have some good wines (ask for what’s available). Holey, then, is a bourgeois Bangkok bakery where you get what you pay for. And how rare is that?

Clinton Street or Chu, they’re still more than satisfying. The gooey, custard-soaked interior of the sugar and syrup drenched French toast (B250) can be ordered in PB&J flavor (B280), though we recommend pairing it with sides of bacon (B50) and scrambled eggs (B30) for the perfect salty edge. Come at lunch and you’ll be tempted to defect to the hearty, crispy chicken burger (B300), slathered with flavorful buffalo wing sauce and topped with crunchy coleslaw. Offset all that fried stuff with a healthy Green (kale, cucumber, apple, lime and ginger, B150) or Red (beetroot, apple and carrot, B150) juice—all freshly pressed with no sugar added. Coffee here comes in the almost unheard of self-serve bottomless variety (B80). Put simply, the experience of eating at Breakfast Story is very much like eating breakfast at home on the couch on Sunday morning—relaxed and comfortable. Though the high cost may seem incongruous with the casual style, the portions are so generous you could easily share between two.

Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000 Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

B BB BBB BBBB

Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

A Taste of Home in Bangkok The new Patissez cafe is Bangkok’s answer to all kinds of comfort food dreams Patissez Cafe is a place where you can enjoy all kinds of comfort food and fresh waffles that come in different flavors and with sauces made from scratch. We are an Australian cafe specializing in shakes and coffee. We select Thai beans from Chiang Mai based on seasonality. Eating at Patissez feels like spending an evening with friends around the dinner table. Our first brunch was in Canberra, Australia. Now we’re in Bangkok! 3/F CentralWorld, 095-8697396. Open daily 10am-10pm BTS Chidlom

@patissezbkk

2 0 19 A Stimulant by Sarnies

Casa Lapin 26

Luka Moto

BK Magazine's guide to the tastiest places to start the day in your neighborhood. Coming in June

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4/19/19 7:15 PM


food & drink | open doors

16 Lao Dtom Lao is effortlessly hip and super affordable The buzz: This Old Town newcomer serves up incredibly affordable—and tasty—Lao cuisine in a setting that’s fun and effortlessly hip. The vibe: With its rustic facade, Lao Dtom Lao blends seamlessly in with its Old Town neighbors. Inside, industrial black metal pendant lamps, distressed walls, wooden tables and red metal chairs converge for a cool, laidback vibe. Vintage touches like an old cash register and fringed lamps lend an old-school edge. A stand of postcards comes with a wider story about keeping tradition alive—the local post box has been relocated especially so that customers can send cards after their meal (stamps provided). The food: Though under the same owner as nearby Mediterranean mainstay Seven Spoons, the cuisine is led by a Lao chef, who uses thick ribbons of papaya and bitter Lao olives in the tum Savannakhet (B90); dark mushrooms in the thick and herbaceous spicy soup (B120) served in a clay pot; and pickled vegetables, crispy pork rind and salty riverweed in the mee kua Lao (B80)—Laos’ sumptuously flavorful version of pad Thai.

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Don’t leave without sampling their signature homemade spicy Lao pork sausage (B120). The singular, simple dessert of grilled sweetcorn wrapped in corn leaf (B90) may not sound like much but you’ll be surprised by the luciously creamy, coconutty dish. The drinks: Cocktails like the refreshing Isan Mojito (B250) keep it local with Thai basil, Isaan Rum, passionfruit and Angostura bitters. Beer Laos (B120)—of course—is available alongside a handful of craft beers. Non drinkers can stick to their refreshing juices: house-made lemonade (B70), fresh sugarcane (B60), roselle (B60). The music: Thai funk, molam and Afrobeat create a goodtimes vibe. Why we’d come back: This rare spot offers the holy trinity of a cool setting, great food and affordable prices. It’s ideal for casual meet-ups and big celebrations alike, with a menu wide enough that you’ll never get bored. Angela Symons 171 Chakkaphatdi Phong Rd., 082-093-8860. Open Tue-Sun 5-11pm.

4/19/19 7:21 PM


19

cr. fb.com/quincebangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

Quince

NEW AND NOTED

17 Say hello to Quince’s slick reincarnation

18 Thonglor’s home of Nashville hot chicken spreads its wings

19 Sukhumvit’s swanky new rooftop is like a luxury penthouse

Bangok’s nose-to-tail pioneer Quince (opened in 2012 on Sukhumvit Soi 45) is back, only with a sleek new mid-century look of teal, velvet, leather and teak as part of property developer Sansiri’s uber-stylish “Siri House” complex (imagine a Soho House members club but tucked down a posh Bangkok side street)—as well as a whole new menu. At the new Quince (Siri House, 14/2 Soi Somkid, Phloen Chit Rd., 094-868-2639), chef Charlie Jones returns aided by a new wood-fired oven where he turns out barbecue octopus (B310) with Jerusalem artichoke ajo blanco (a Spanish cold soup here served almost spreadably thick), wood-roasted coquelet (a young chicken, B750) and 200g wagyu bavette steak (B910).

Joining the influx of newcomers to Soi 11, Fowlmouth’s second branch (1-2/F, Eleven, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 097- 047-9457) is enlivened by loud bursts of red and brightly colored murals painted by local artist, Jayoto. Classics like their Little Fowl (B250), which sets a perfectly crisp quarter chicken with pickles atop classic white bread, are joined by a new “secret menu” that features slaw-loaded fried chicken tacos (B200) and an oozing grilled cheese chicken sandwich (B250)—both exclusive to this branch. They also differentiate themselves by offering beers and ciders like the local Mahankhon White Ale (B150) and fruity Happy Monster Bow Berry (B250).

Spread over three levels and 280 sq meters, Spectrum (29-31/F, Hyatt Regency, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02098-1234) can accommodate almost 300 people. The inviting indoor living room comes with a sky blue velvet carpet, a glowing gold fretwork ceiling, a black marble bar and Thai artwork, while the dramatic outdoor bar features wooden decking and lime-cushioned chairs flanked by purple neon light—for date night, opt for one of the rooftop’s cozy tree-lined alcoves. Fancy tapas like wagyu beef sliders (B580) and crispy soft shell crab on taro fritters (B410) accompany cocktails like the Giant Pandan (B340), a blend of vodka, Midori, grapefruit juice, pandan, lime, egg white and bitters.

NEW_TasteTest-BK#760-5APR2019.indd 19

TABLE TALK

ABar 37/F Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-059-5999. Open daily 6pm 1am. High above the city streets, ABar transports guests into a bygone era. Specializing in dark spirits, including whiskies from around the world, ABar has a sultry style and sophisticated ambience. Casually sip crafted cocktails in your wingback chair, whilst gazing down over Bangkok’s glittering night-time skyline. With an outdoor terrace, pool table and foosball, this is the perfect place to start or end your evening.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount Today – 31 Oct 19

4/19/19 7:21 PM


Hummus Heads

Clucking Donut

NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK

Seen Restaurant & Bar Avani + Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-4319100. Open daily 6pm-1am. At this rooftop bar, the menu is from the mind of Portuguese chef Olivier da Costa, who serves international cuisine using local produce with fresh and bold flavors. Black and gold adorns the space, alongside bamboo counters and floor-toceiling windows offering scenic city views. Creative cocktails are an equal match to the food, like the Sin to be Seen (jackfruit sous vide rum, sweet basil, peach bitters and vegetable tonic) and Don’t Call Me Mr. Mule (lemongrass sous vide vodka, kaffir lime, caramelized galangal and cocoa).

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount Today – 31 Oct 19

NEW_TasteTest-BK#760-5APR2019.indd 20

20 Enjoy next-level hummus on Thonglor Splashing some color onto a Thonglor side street with its yellow walls and cheerful murals, Hummus Heads (Thonglor Soi 10, 097-193-1912) offers its namesake in six different flavors: plain, sweet basil, pumpkin, beetroot, sweet potato and panang curry (B125135). Scoop it all up with crispy falafel balls (B150/six pieces) or slather it on a chicken shawarma wrap (B130). Though there’s no dessert menu as yet, they offer something much crazier and just as sweet: hummus shakes, naturally sweetened with maple and blended in flavors like chocolate pistachio milk, strawberry almond milk, spicy cinnamon pumpkin and chilli chocolate (B145).

21 Chicken and donuts is now officially a trend

22 This Old Town stretch is becoming a hipster enclave

The people behind the Thai bean-tobar chocolatier, Malai Chocolate, have just launched Clucking Donut (11/33 Petchburi 47, 1 New Petchaburi Rd.), a new concept dedicated to classic American comfort food—namely fried chicken and donuts. This may not seem like the most typical combo but it follows in the footsteps of recently opened Brassica in Nanglinchee. Pair some crunchy-yet-juicy Clucking Wings (B220) or a mammoth Clucking Chicken Sandwich (B220)—available in Nashville-style heats ranging from the forgiving BareNaked to the heady Shittin’ Fire—with a fresh, housemade donut in brown butter and salt or snozzberry flavor (B70 each).

Just down the road from Lao Dtom Lao, Embassy Coffee’s (152 Thanon Chakkrapatipong Rd., 098-240-1981) moody shop-house fits right in with its Old Town neighbors. Inside, dark walls, concrete flooring, metal bookshelves and Edison bulbs conjure a modish feel. A tall refrigerator displays mouthwatering baked goods made in-house by the pastry chef co-owner—try the deliciously moist yet not-too-sweet bael cake (B65)— while drip coffee equipment sits on a counter next to jars readying themselves for house-made jam and pickle mustard. Fill up on clam and chili pasta (B145) before winding down with a Russian fruit tea (B45), served with a side of jam as a sweetener.

4/19/19 7:21 PM


food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

Who makes the best... Hummus?

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Hummus is having its Bangkok moment in the sun. From farmers’ market specialists to new restaurants dedicated to all things chickpea, there’s never been a better time to dive into this nutrient-rich spread. We've dipped into some of Bangkok's most best-loved (and new) Middle Eastern spots to answer the question—who makes the best hummus in town? By BK Staff

Nadimos (B140)

Runner

up! Who: Bangkok’s Lebanese old-timer for juicy plates of shawarma and all that’s rich and garlicky. Verdict: By far the creamiest and densest hummus in the pack has an unbalanced taste (too sharp for its own good). Still, there’s a pleasant nuttiness together with the distinctive roast tahini flavor. Two branches. Try Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-261-9816. www.nadimos.com

Rawabina (B120) Who: Two street-side tables under a red awning, and just a few indoor seats. Verdict: Bleached white, airily soft and buttery-smooth, what this dish wins in nuttiness and roasted sesame notes, it loses in sourness. Sukhumvit Soi 23,092-820-2828. www.fb.com/basamabomora

NEW_TasteTest-BK#760-5APR2019.indd 21

Olive (B175) Who: Olive has been promoting Greek cuisine in Bangkok for years, even spreading its dips, chips and other takeaway appetizers to Gourmet Markets citywide. Verdict: Fresh garlic leads in this fizzily fermented zinger of chickpea intensity. Grainy, slightly coarse, uniquely dark gray and delicious. 37/1 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-713-1112. www.fb.com/olivebangkok

MEM Delicatessen (B180) Who: Found at farmers’ markets and on supermarket shelves, this deli outfit makes a range of Mediterranean spreads. Verdict: A strong cumin flavor pops out from amid a not too sour, not too bland spread with a nutty aroma. The only thing that lets it down is the runny texture. Available at most Villa Markets, The Green Geek Shop and Sunshine Market. 092-120-2819. www.memdeli.com

The Hummus Boutique (B160) Who: This all-Mediterranean, all-vegetarian venture has a Turkish slant. Its range of hummus comes topped in everything from traditional toasted almonds to avocado. Verdict: This silky-smooth hummus feels like it’s been whipped to the point of stiff-peaks. The result is super airy but also a bit bland and sweet when eaten on its own. 999 Sukhumvit Rd., 092-819-8131. www.fb.com/hummusboutiquebkk

Al Rawche (B140)

BK Pick!

Who: Slap-bang in Arab Town, Al Rawche offers down-the-line Lebanese classics, often cooked on open coals. Verdict: A winner for its velvety smooth yet hefty consistency, as well as a flavor that sits perfectly between light lemony tang, mellow chickpea and toasty tahini. 95 Sukhumvit Soi 5, 02-655-0099. www.fb.com/alrawche

Beirut (B150) Who: A long-time Lebanese mainstay with branches all around the city. Verdict: The texture is light and creamy, but also a bit liquidy. The flavor leads with sourness and just a hint of tahini lingers on the tongue. Three branches. Try B/F, Ploenchit Center, Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7377. www.beirut-restaurant.com

BK's Taste Tests are conducted blind.

4/19/19 7:21 PM


trending | body positive

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

22

Slim Chance of Acceptance Bangkok fights uphill battle to promote body diversity. By Clara Howell

I

t began like an intense high—temporarily numb, heightened cravings and no control. Corn flakes, chips, cakes, it didn’t matter, Rutchaporn “May” Korsuwan, 23, would eat until she felt sick. “In that moment, it doesn’t matter what promises I’ve made to myself, how good my intentions are. Once I felt sick or my brain calculated the calories, that’s when the guilt hit me,” says May, who would then force herself to throw up. She’d become bulimic. Western culture has made recent strides in promoting body diversity and positivity through social media trends and in entertainment, but in Thai society it’s still in the shadows. A report by Khaosod English in 2017 highlighted just how few cases of bulimia go reported in Thailand, with both doctors and academics unable to point to any statistics on eating disorders among Thai women. What is known is the intense societal pressure on women to be slim and whiteskinned. Advertisements showing comical, dark-skinned chubby girls being transformed into slim white-skinned girls are a common trope in ads on TV and public transport, used for everything from coffee to corn chips. International efforts to embrace different beauty standards have further highlighted local attitudes. When in 2018 Britain’s Cosmopolitan magazine put plus-size model Tess Holliday on the cover, the fashion editor for Thai Vogue described the model as “nasty” in social media posts that have since been deleted.

The dark side of “getting beautiful” Before May became bulimic, she developed an unhealthy relationship with food and was afraid of it. She was over-exercising to burn off what she consumed. She tried many strict diets and when she managed to drop 20 kilograms in about four months, it altered her hormones. May didn’t get her period for a

TrendFeature-BK#761-26APR2019-2.indd 22

year, her hair fell out, her skin dried, her social life dwindled and she was depressed. “That’s not me. I always smile. Where’s that May? How did it turn to this? How did it turn to eating until I feel sick?” says May. “It’s self-harm.” When she reached rock bottom a few months ago, May sought out a psychiatrist and psychotherapist. She was prescribed the antidepressant Prozac but says it made her feel numb. “If I’m happy, I’m not that happy. If I’m sad, I’m not that sad,” she says, adding that Thailand offers limited access to quality mental health care and that the subject is still taboo. “You don’t have to be out of your mind to see a psychiatrist because we need someone to talk to that’s not your mom or family. We need professional opinions. If you want a good one, then you probably have to pay a lot because it’s not so common here.”

mal, I was told I was fat and that I should look skinnier. I could never fit the norm. It’s an issue that all of us have been dealing with: how to feel confident in your body.” Model and actor Taya Rogers, 33, has witnessed first-hand the manipulative techniques used to portray Thai women as light and white. When she was younger, the half-Thai, half-American model used to star in skin-whitening commercials. “They put on lighter makeup and used a shit ton of lighting. It’s all smoke and mirrors when it comes to the ad agency. I don’t see why you would want to alter your natural beauty,” says Rogers, adding that she no longer accepts skin whitening jobs because she doesn’t personally use the product. With her athletic build, bronze skin and full features, Rogers in many ways fits the Hollywood beauty standard more than the K-pop one, and wishes local ads would portray a more diverse array of people. “We are just not there yet. We will get further on accepting skin colors, physical features but weight will be hardest for Thailand to accept and break through.” “Like any society that’s linked to modern technology, we are constantly looking to TV and fashion magazines to see what the standard of beauty is,” Rogers says. “The Thai standard has been really skinny, pale white skin and big doll eyes. These are things I think are starting to change in Thailand but it’s a slow change. For starters, you can see it with Ms. Universe and Thailand pageants.”

“ Even though I was normal, I was told I was fat and that I should look skinnier. ”

It’s not what it seems All her life, May thought she could never fit the Bangkok beauty standard: petite, skinny, flat and light-skinned with large eyes—a similar look, she says, to Korean singers. May was taller than average, darker than usually seen on TV and she felt she was built differently than her peers. Everywhere May turned, fat comments and harsh words about her appearance stabbed her in the stomach. “You would want to go on a diet or do something so people would stop complaining and saying bad things,” says May, adding that Thai people have no filter when it comes to weight comments. “It’s rooted in my head that I could never be enough, even though was nor-

Thailand last year, a competitive reality show to find a spokesperson to represent plus-sized women in Thailand. Each episode set a different challenge, whether it be modeling, fashion, answering questions or dancing. Patcharee “Goodnight” Intawong, 23, won the first season, which aired only on Youtube and ended last month. Goodnight remembers back in high school when she gave a Valentine’s Day card to her crush. He ripped it up and everyone in class saw. “At that time it really scarred me. Even now, rejection is one thing I am still trying to work with. At the time when he ripped up the card, he ripped my confidence as well,” says Goodnight. “I wanted to be this strong, independent woman and not let the past define me, so I decided to apply for Curve Battle.” The show exposed Goodnight to a wide array of body types and, with the help of others involved with Curve Battle, Goodnight wants to create inspiring and empowering videos that go viral; the first of which would be about things people say larger women can’t do and can’t wear. “We are trying to change that stigma of plus-size women,” says Goodnight. “Modeling in Thailand is still not that open to having a plus-size model in their agency. That’s one thing I’m really trying [to change]. In Thai media, plus-size actresses, we only get to be the funny ones. It’s going to be a long road for Thai media to embrace it.” Not only does Goodnight want to be a voice for plus-sized women, she wants to help others break the cycle of mental abuse. “We never really talk about ourselves bullying ourselves,” says Goodnight. “I think one way to heal that hurt is to listen and also to talk them through and show them you can grow out of the pain. You don’t have to play victim.”

Slow Progress Benyapat “Worwear” Kruenakphan and Panita “Pani” Hummel Roth started Curve Battle

Additional reporting by Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

4/18/19 3:43 PM


neighborhood | mrt phetchaburi

23

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 26, 2019

Changwon Express

Kiew Kai Ka

The Garden

Case Study

Traffic Stop

Coffee & Breakfast

Thanks to a slew of construction projects over the last year, the Asoke-Phetchaburi intersection has seemingly offered little more than endless traffic jams and noise pollution. Now, though, its hidden gems have been bolstered by a wave of new openings, making Bangkok’s office-central a whole lot more livable. By Angela Symons

For grab-and-go starts, drop by French boulangerie Gontran Cherrier (G/F, Singha Complex, New Petchaburi Rd., 090-991-8999) for an almond croissant (B115) and iced cappuccino (B125), or CFE Jerney (253 Sukhumvit Soi 21 [Asoke], 080-200-6345) for a caramel macchiato (B75). Leisurely mornings can be savored with a Thai-style coffee (B90) in the garden at Artisan (The Garden, 68/2-3 Soi Chulin, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 061-963-5364), or perusing the bookshelves with a latte (B75) at tucked-away Case Study (235/19 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 086-001-7000). Kuppadeli (219/1A Asoke Towers, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-2350) offers jazzed up brunch staples.

Lunch & Dinner Offices guarantee cheap food courts like Hidden Asok Flea Market (114 Sukhumvit Soi 21) and Ruam Sab Market (205 Sukhumvit Soi 21),

while beneath Midtown, Sabsaded (B/F, Midtown Asoke, 189/1 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-0606) serves pocket-friendly somtam (B40) and grilled chicken (B45). New mini-mall Baan Kampu@Asoke (68 Sukhumvit Soi 21) has brought reliable chains like Ros’niyom and Bonchon. Kiew Kai Ka (The Garden, 68/2-3 Soi Chulin, Sukhumvit 21) serves delicious soft-shell crab pad pongaree (B280) and miang kham (B140) in a lush setting—top tip: you can BYOB with no corkage charge. Phetchaburi’s new Singha Complex (1788 New Petchaburi Rd.) offers more big names like Bangkok Bold Kitchen and Phuket Town. For comforting Napoletana pizza and fresh pasta (from B260), it’s worth the 10-minute walk to Sfizio (44/4 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-262-0405).

Drinks Tucked away gems include weekdays-only XCQ (44/10 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 063-043-5484), where

XCQ Bistro & Rooftop Bar

live music and cheap drinks (large Leo, B90; 700ml Sangsom, B420) fill the fourth-floor rooftop, and natural wine bar About Eatery (G/F, Ocean Tower 2, Asoke Soi 3, 02-665-2772). Speakeasy-style Q&A (235/13 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-1445) serves cocktails (around B400) in a ‘20s-style “railway carriage.” For craft beer and Korean fried chicken (B220 half/B400 full), hop over the junction to vibrant yellow Changwon Express (37 Asoke Din Daeng Rd., 092-251-8661)—it doesn’t get more local than their Asoke Pale Ale (B200).

Transport This is possibly Bangkok’s best connected neighborhood, with MRT Phetchaburi; ARL Makkasan (B35 trips direct to Suvarnabhumi); Asoke Pier (sub-B20 canal boats run east past Bang Kapi or west to Pratunam and beyond); and BTS Asoke (five minutes by bike).

Accommodation NL Residence’s old-school interior can be forgiven when 130-sq-meter two-bedrooms start at B25,000. Supalai Premier Asoke costs from B16,000-B180,000 per month; Life Asoke from B12,000-45,000; and Q Asoke from B20,000-B150,000. Currently nearing completion, a one-bedroom at The Lofts Asoke will set you back B8 million.

Visit Srinakharinwirot University offers a Tue/Thu market and a public sports field. Find the free running track on the roof of the Singha Complex or sweat it out at CrossFit Arena (1624/2 Petchaburi Rd., 099-403-4968). Shop at Japanese second-hand store Treasure Factory or luxury multi-brand womenswear store Cocoon (both at 2/F, Baan Kampu@Asoke, 68 Sukhumvit Soi 21). Coworkers can utilize Glowfish (Asoke Towers, 219 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-120-9600).

BK ASKS

What are your top spots in AsokePhetchaburi?

Neighbourhood-BK#760-5APR2019_New.indd 23

TED AHN, OWNER OF CHANGWON EXPRESS “I go to Case Study for caffeine and to get work done. Srinakharinwirot University is a little oasis, I take my son there for football. For malls, there’s the recently built Singha Complex. This area just keeps getting better.”

NATTAPON TANTAYAPONG, CO-OWNER OF CASE STUDY “This area is so convenient with the pier, airport link, MRT and BTS. When my friends visit from abroad, I like to take them to the secret bar Q&A—they have the best mojitos!”

JARUWAT PIYUSSAPAN, OWNER OF CFE JERNEY “This area is becoming the new CBD. With its convenient public transport links and many new offices and condominiums coming up, there is a lot of potential and opportunity here.”

4/19/19 7:23 PM


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4/18/19 3:29 PM


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