BK Magazine 787 by BK Magazine

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Smooth Cadence Dan Bark levels up at his new restaurant in Ekkamai Smell the Roses Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more to Pak Klong Talad than its famous market Protest Songs Meet the Thai musician challenging the century-long status quo Basque in the Glow Who makes the best Basque burnt cheesecake in BKK?

Love wins NO. 787 JULY 24, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Craig Sauers Deputy Editor Angela Symons Audience Development Specialist Nontaya Kumyat Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Veerabhatr Sriyananda Junior Writer Supanan Anansuviroj Contributor Megan Leon

Meet the artist releasing an album about Thailand’s tumultuous history

Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Chief Commercial Officer Jane Bay Product Marketing Manager Madeleine Anantasuk Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Manager Tipkritta Chiraporncharas Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

cover

How the pandemic might reshape Bangkok for the better

Interns Tanat Trakoonnumchokchai, Wanvisa Koedmongkhon, Supaporn Saeponkrang, Varinthorn Techarukpong

“Would you turn away a diplomat, a man of such evident stature?” Boonmee asked, seemingly rhetorically, as he held up a pair of horn-rimmed eyeglasses attached with a bushy mustache, bushier eyebrows and what appeared to be an exploding cigar. “He must have got wind of the fact that the elite get free passes in Thailand. We were hornswoggled.”

08 food

Boonmee explained that the man had said he was on a stopover on a flight from Tallinn to Paris and intended to make a day trip to Tehran for undisclosed reasons. His itinerary had included three nights in Thailand for medical tourism.

Saawaan reopens

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)

open door

taste test

Cadence by Dan Bark

Basque burnt cheesecake

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2020 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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CHONBURI—Local authorities announced today that a tourist from an unidentified country, posing as Estonia’s deputy minister for agriculture and sport, had illegally entered Thailand last month, infecting up to 3,000 residents in Pattaya. According to Chonburi officer Boonmee Thongsuk, the man arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport wearing military fatigues and a Rolex and had disguised himself with an impressive mustache. He then passed through the diplomatic lane at the immigration counter and breezed through the fever-scanning check, recording a body temperature of 32.2 Celsius. His passport, it was later revealed, was no more than a pocket calendar designed to look like an official document.

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri

Where to find us!

Man in fake mustache poses as diplomat, infects thousands in Thai beach town

SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associate Palita Nueangnit Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg

Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

neighborhood

Pak Klong Talad

Upon exiting the airport, Boonmee continued, the man took a public minivan to Pattaya, where he checked into the Showgirlz soapy massage parlor using the Thai Chana app. “He signed up for the buy-one-get-one full-body treatment, part of our ‘travel bubble’ package,” said Showgirlz employee Praew Onruang. “Masks and face shields only go so far in this line of work, you know.” Praew noted how the threat of another shutdown had sent her industry into a freefall, and so she was inclined to accept the mysterious stranger’s business no matter the circumstances. “We can’t just wait for B5,000 handouts that will never come. Hell, we’re not even eligible for state benefits anyway!” she exclaimed. After leaving Showgirlz, the tourist was reported to have been seen at a combination elephant and monkey “coconut show” before he popped into Pattaya’s leading shark fin soup restaurant. Authorities could not confirm his presence at any of the locations, however, as the man had evidently discovered how to point his phone in the direction of the Thai Chana QR code but not actually check in, thus bypassing Thailand’s non-legally binding security measures. He was later spotted strolling through the city’s shopping centers and visiting several massage parlors, legitimate or otherwise. At press time, the tourist was said to be undergoing treatment for a litany of unsavory diseases that included Covid-19, according to one nurse who spoke anonymously, as his superiors had not authorized him to speak about anything to the press, ever. “He expressed an affinity for Thailand’s secondary and even tertiary destinations,” said the nurse. “He told us he couldn’t wait to return so he could ‘spread the wealth’ to other provinces.”

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

HOT OR NOT

PITSTOPS Pandemic? What pandemic? This seems like a perfectly suitable time for someone coming from a country where Covid is absolutely raging to make a two-night stopover and enjoy the sights in Thailand on their way to some sort of official business in central China. But let’s be real: we can all agree that beachy Rayong trumps Chengdu if you can’t visit the pandas.

This artist’s latest album is all about Thailand’s coups INTERVIEW

What inspired your new album?

Drawing on historical events, real life samples and synthetic sounds, politically-charged Thai visual artist and musician Pisitakun Kuantalaeng is gearing up to launch his third album, “Absolute C.O.U.P.,” on Jul 29. We caught up with him to discover what drives him to speak up in an era when free speech is stifled.

Since the Siam Revolution in 1932, Thailand has had 13 coup d’etats. There are many systems that work together and [led to this]. I try to talk about these groups: one song represents the army, one song represents the news or religion, one song represents the constitutional court. How do you represent this in your music? In “ArArMyMy,” [I sampled Ekkaphot Wongnak’s] luk thung folk song about the poor soldier… and a speech by the leader of the coup d’etat [in 2014], Prayut Chan-o-cha… I also used the sound of a grass cutter, because when the soldiers are [conscripted] to service, they are [made to work] like slaves, cutting the grass… At the end, there are the names of the [conscripts] who have been killed by the leaders in the military camps. For the [song about] the people and religion, I mixed traditional sounds of monks celebrating with music from different parts of Thailand—Isaan, the south, and the north [to represent struggle]. Are you scared to create music about such sensitive topics? I think for music, it’s easy because I use samples from reality; I only piece things together to create a message. Has your work ever got you in trouble? For the music, not yet—but for my artwork, a lot! For me, art has a limit when you try to talk about the political situation, but for the music I try to make it really abstract. Do you hope to create change through your work?

Here’s how BK readers feel about current events in Thailand

In Udon Thani, Suwanlee Panyasai, winner of a B90 million lottery payout in 2018, paid it forward on her 48th birthday this July, showering the local community with B300,000 worth of B20 bank notes and gold chains dropped by paragliders. Make it rain, girl, make it rain.

government, it is also about fashion—how the new generation talks about the problem. I try to show that we can do something more creative… to keep people interested and create energy so that it feels fresh. Do you think there is enough activism among young people in Thailand? Now, the young generation is getting more creative. In the ‘60s or ‘70s, when you wanted to fight, you just protested. Now, you cannot do that, so you have to do something like a flashmob or create something on Twitter. You have a lot of media you can use now. What artists inspire you? My inspiration is mostly from old songs and their history. Molam... really relates to the political situation, that’s why I use [it] so much. Do you still make artwork? Yes, I have a project called Iconoclastor. I have been making stickers since the Future Forward [Party was banned]. [I also] talk about the military crackdown in 2010, because it has now been 10 years. All of my stickers are at WTF Gallery’s exhibition [through Aug 23]. What do you think has changed over those 10 years?

LOVE Thailand recently paved the way for legal same-sex unions, making it the first Southeast Asian country to do so. It’s a feather in the cap for equality advocates. Even if the proposed bill stops short of granting the same rights to the transgender community, a step forward is a step forward. Attaway, Thailand!

I think now the government is worse, but I feel like the new generation is really quite cool and active. It’s given me a lot of hope compared to 10 years ago—it’s not only the party but the people.

Absolute C.O.U.P. is available to pre-order as a gold bullet-shaped USB, tape or digital download via Chinabot * Angela Symons

People can get the reason to protest from my music, but... for me, it is not only about going to protest, or writing an article to critique the

WE ASKED, YOU ANSWERED

GREED

DUAL PRICING Influential blogger Richard Barrow often rails against the Thailand’s dual pricing, which sees expats and legal residents charged up to 10 times as much for everything from train rides to treatment at public hospitals. Recently, Artbox-based Golden Axe Throw Club touted a (not serious) “foreigners pay half” deal, illuminating the absurdity of two-tier pricing. The question is: when will this policy be axed?

Is Thailand ready to open to tourists again?

Have you ventured outside of Bangkok yet?

Same-sex marriage could soon be made legal for cisgender couples. Thoughts?

34% Yes / 66% No

42% Yes / 58% No

22% Yay! About time / 78% Equal rights for all, please

cover | building a better bkk

The future we deserve The pandemic has created unprecedented changes to the way we lead our lives, from trivial things like having to check in with the increasingly irritating Thai Chana app to bigger shifts like spending less money by cooking or drinking at home. The question is: which changes do we want to remain once the pandemic is gone for good? Here are the changes we hope to see stick in the months and even years to come.

By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

More domestic and sustainable tourism

Better hygiene

Tourism in Thailand has taken a big hit since the dawn of the pandemic. Festivals, large-scale events, mass tours and a booming nightlife industry helped the country record 39.8 million tourists last year. This year, it will be lucky to even see a third of that amount.

As social animals, we need to meet and connect with other human beings. However, the pandemic has cast light onto our sometimes questionable hygiene practices and made us all aware of how to be cleaner and more considerate when we’re out in public.

Realizing that tourism has always been one the country’s main sources of wealth, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) masterminded a campaign to revitalize domestic tourism before international travelers return. Running until Oct 31, the campaign—rao tiew duay gan, “we travel together”—will see the government subsidize two million air tickets, limited to B2,000 per person. The government will also subsidize five million nights at 40 percent of normal room rates, limited to B3,000 per night for up to five nights.

Forget shaking hands. We’re back to the simple wai. We’re also (finally) remembering to cover our mouths when we cough, wear masks to protect others when we’re sick (or in a pandemic) and sanitize our hands after touching anything (because we know what happens if we don’t). In most Bangkok malls, elevators are now sterilized every half hour, while some are equipped with foot pedals for you to choose your desired floor. You even frequently see cleaning staff wiping escalator handrails. At higher-end shopping malls, cleaning staff have been supplemented with handrail UV sterilizers and contact-tracing robots. Yep, it’s over the top, but being clean is a good thing. Although let’s maybe ditch the creepy robots.

Domestic tourism isn’t a long-term solution for economic crises, but it is something we hope remains robust in the future. In fact, with eco-friendly and community-based tourism is on the rise, domestic tourism could pave the way for a more sustainable industry. With leatherback turtles returning to Koh Samui, dugongs to Trang and coral to Koh Phi Phi, it’s clear the country has needed a break from the perpetual cycle of mass tourism for a long time. Now, more companies like Smiling Albino are catering to this new reality with activities like canal tours in Thonburi; resorts like Zeavola on Phi Phi are offering coral-planting in the South; and the TAT has thrown its clout behind developing green activities and destinations. Take Trat, for example. The TAT has helped the village of Baan Tharanae boost its eco-friendly mangrove tours while offering homestays—vital income for small communities. On nearby island paradise Koh Mak, locals are fighting tooth and nail for a greener future through the sustainability-driven Local One Project. On top of encouraging the use of renewable energy, recycling and efficient use of water, the project aims to promote sustainable tourism by embracing traditional ways of life and fighting against the larger resorts’ wishes to extend the high season. Through their low carbon project, which includes the banning of foam packaging, the discouragement of engine-powered water sports such as jet skis and banana boats, and avoidance of agricultural chemicals, they hope to attract a smaller number of visitors who share their vision rather than selling out to mass tourism. For a more sustainable future, the people of Bangkok, with our greater numbers and purchasing power, need to keep it green as we rediscover the riches of our own country.

Credit to families and educators for teaching kids to take health and safety measures seriously. Kids growing up will know how diseases are spread and understand the value of preventative measures. The Bangkok of 2030 might be better equipped to handle pandemics. If nothing else, it should be a cleaner city to call home.

“This won’t be the last pandemic” — Yossapon Boonsom

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 24, 2020

Yossapon Boonsom

Avi Yashaya

Waralee Kaewkoon

Smarter urban planning

Nightlife reform

Continue working from home

The Covid-19 pandemic is quietly driving innovations and transforming the cities of tomorrow. Melbourne has set in motion plans to put shopping, work, and leisure within 20 minutes of residents’ homes. In New York, Paris, and Vilnius, officials have expanded sidewalks at the expense of car lanes, creating space for bars and restaurants to serve customers and for pedestrians to exercise safely. Bogotá has added 76km to its pre-existing 550km network of permanent bike lanes.

With bars shut down for a third of the year and news of the government potentially banning online booze sales, Bangkok’s nightlife and alcohol industries haven’t had it easy. As we slowly move toward normalcy, bars are up-and-running again, but with a big caveat: they can stay open only until midnight for the time being. Unable to sell between 2-5pm, and now shuttered after midnight, bars and distributors are in a bind.

When the pandemic broke out, many employers sent us home. At BK, we certainly embraced the flexibility that working from home and virtual meetings provided. Plus, it wasn’t as difficult as we thought it would be. There were even some productivity gains from not having to commute to the office. We’re not alone.

In Bangkok, however, little seems to have changed. When parks were closed in April, no roads were reserved for residents to exercise. No space has been given over to bars or restaurants, either. In May, after the lockdown was lifted, an all-too-familiar gridlock returned, amplified by frequent rushhour breakdowns on the BTS. This made us wonder whether the new normal would be any different from the old normal. Yossapon “Yos” Boonsom, director of Shma Designs, an awardwinning landscape architecture firm pushing for green and sustainable development, thinks we still have time to change. “This won’t be the last pandemic,” he says. “So why don’t we use the [proposed B400 billion stimulus] to revitalize the city…and examine ways it can be developed in the future?” Shma has pitched a sweeping initiative called the Green Link to the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA). That project that would create a 54km network of greenways across the city and add up to 10,800 large, dust-filtering trees citywide. That would be useful when the dreaded PM2.5 returns. Yos says the project would boost land prices, develop public spaces and reduce sprawl by enhancing quality of life in the city’s many neighborhoods. Living in better integrated communities would also lessen our reliance on cars. Basically, wins across the board. So why aren’t we seeing any change? “Two years ago, we created a pocket park under an expressway. It showed that you could create something better from our gray structures—and we have a lot of gray structures,” Yos says. But the biggest pandemic plaguing Thailand, he notes, is a lack of policies and incentives that would help projects like the Green Link get off the ground. “It was just a good example—it was never replicated. There’s no policy to provide a goalpost for these projects.” Yos isn’t deterred. He says Shma is currently developing pocket parks in Samyan, on the riverside and in Ekkamai, where an abandoned lot will be turned into an adaptable space: an urban farm feeding the community during crises and a park during normal times. Shma has also teamed up with 30-plus organizations that work on a wide range of social issues, from urban poverty to water management, to form a nascent “urban platform.” Together, they hope to work toward a single goal and provide a roadmap to the government. Then maybe urban farms, bike lanes and smart communities like those in Melbourne will be the norm rather than the exception.

“I see [regulated drinking hours] as a bit redundant,” says Avi Yashaya, a partner of Mahanakhon Beer, one of Thailand’s pioneering craft beers. “Assuming all the protocols are being followed, I’m not sure how closing time would affect the disease spreading, especially considering there have been no local transmissions for a month and a half [at time of print, that is—who knows what will come of the Rayong scandal?].” In fact, he adds, tighter hours might be problematic. “[Bad] behavior might just shift to earlier hours or, worse, [it might] promote binge-drinking due to a stricter timeline,” he says. “There must be other ways to achieve these goals without economically suppressing an already fragile industry.” In the end, Yashaya thinks the pandemic will shape the experience of going out for a long time to come. “Spontaneous outings and venturing beyond one’s comfort zone might not be a priority for a while,” he says. That makes this moment a great opportunity to consider better ways to have fun responsibly, whether at the bar or at home, while also supporting small businesses and bar owners. Jerome Le Louer of Wishbeer asks rhetorically: “Does it even make sense to forbid alcohol sales between 2-5pm? What’s the rationale here?” Easing regulations to serve during the day ime, he suggests, could improve business and encourage consumers to drink earlier and take public transport home rather than drive. In fact, the curfew and shutdown yielded another interesting side effect: many people reported having drinks earlier in the day. That meant ending and sleeping earlier, waking up at a reasonable hour the following morning, and not driving home after having had a few. Not to mention we saved some cash in the process. “We have to admit that a lot of people ordered alcohol online to drink at home [during the lockdown],” says a representative of beer review page Prachachonbeer, who spoke on the condition of anonymity, fearing reprisals from officials. “But conversely, I think it was a good thing, since it limited a lot of drink-and-drive [incidents]…I don’t understand why drinking at home [is considered to] be such a bad thing.”

“This has been an opportunity for me to reflect on my own happiness, values and life goals, all of which have a direct impact on my creative work,” explains Waralee “Mook” Kaewkoon, an aspiring architect and design coach. “It has given me the space and time I need for a personal transformation.” She says working from home has given her a chance to find balance between working and resting—to switch freely between the two and better manage her stress, which can be a challenge for many of us in office environments. “For me, being able to reach and maintain an elevated emotional state is key for finding inspiration, staying motivated and creating quality work,” she says. “[While working from home,] I have become more aware of my needs and developed a personal routine that prioritizes my well-being and therefore my work.” The home office does have its flaws, though, from new sets of distractions and sources of stress to requiring an unprecedented level of discipline to maintain productivity. “The smallest distractions can disrupt the creative workflow, and it costs both time and energy to restart the process,” says Mook. “This means it takes longer to finish a project, and there will most likely be some frustration as well.” When asked if Thailand is really prepared for working from home in the future, Mook pulled no punches. “Frankly, Thai people are resistant to change. They have a fear of the unknown, and they don’t challenge authority. They complain about unsatisfactory situations without offering any tangible solutions,” she says emphatically. “I think change truly occurs when awareness of one’s needs is matched by the determination to pursue them. The question is whether Thai people possess either of those qualities.” Mook believes we might all just be waiting for a return to normal rather than adapting to the reality before us. “However, if we can recognize this as an opportunity to improve while remaining flexible, we can be empowered to take the brave step into the unknown and embrace change for the better. For example, if enough people agree that work from home would significantly improve traffic, then maybe that’s a good enough reason for them to consider doing it in the long term.”

cover | building a better bkk

What do Bangkok Gen Z want to see stick after the pandemic passes?

Be truly digital-ready The prospect of going cashless seems especially attractive now that we’re using QR codes and online payments more than ever. But will the ubiquitous Rabbit card ever end up like the Octopus card in Hong Kong or the Oyster card in London? (Mangmoom card, where are you?) The bigger question is: are we really digital-ready? According to a Cisco Systems report in 2019, maybe not. In that study, Thailand ranked third out of six ASEAN countries—and 11th out of 14 countries in Asia-Pacific—in digital-readiness.

Sakdinant Riangkrul, 25, Political Consultant, Vriens & Partners “Keeping up hygiene has proven to be key during the pandemic, but it’s definitely something we should keep well after. Hygiene should extend to food deliveries and public transport. While our efforts to go green by eliminating plastic bags at the beginning of 2020 was halted, it’s an opportunity for us to improve the single-use products we rely on to not just practice proper hygiene but stay on an [eco-minded] path as well. Also, anything contactless should still remain post-Covid.”

In other words, we have a long way to go. When you’re out at a shopping mall, it might be relatively normal now to use anything from credit cards to e-wallets when making purchases. But when it comes to traditional markets, or talat nat, it’s only recently that several vendors have started to offer bank transfers or QR payments—and even then, there aren’t many doing it. And how many Bitcoin machines do you know of in Thailand anyway, outside of the one gathering dust at Chit Beer on Koh Kret? A lack of expertise in technology (many still prefer endless paperwork over digital documentation), poor functionality of state-run websites, an utter lack of transparency in regulations and surprisingly poor Internet quality present other challenges. According to The Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU), Thailand has some of the world’s slowest 4G—it might be alright in Bangkok, but outside of the capital, not so much. Then consider what happened in April and May, when millions ran into delays receiving their B5,000 handouts. When coupled with a relatively undeveloped digital infrastructure, despite setting milestones in research and development spending in recent years, it’s clear we may have to wait a while to finally achieve Thailand 4.0 status, our answer to places like Hong Kong, Singapore, Europe, the UK and the US, where societies are already digital-driven.

Surasek Bunnag, 24, Executive Recruitment Consultant, Monroe Consulting “I think the concept of working from home is a nice thing that came out of the pandemic. It proves that working from home doesn’t result in a drop in productivity. It doesn’t have to be five days a week, but the option to work from home even a day a week will increase productivity and the work-life balance for employees.”

Sumetanee Dulyachinda, 25, Marketing Manager, PropertyGuru, Asia Property Awards & Events “Temperature checks are useless in my opinion, because 90 percent of the people working the instruments don’t do it properly. This needs to go. On the other hand, having hand sanitizer everywhere is great. The coronavirus pandemic is training people to take notice of their own health. Wearing face masks should stay but maybe not for every single person. If you’re exhibiting symptoms, then you should wear one. Also, I like social distancing because #personalspace.”

hit list | shopping

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 24, 2020

Indulge and unwind at this holistic haven in Ekkamai WELLNESS

With boutique resort-inspired decor infused with warm wood touches, White Wood Green Spa & Wellness is the ideal place to unwind after a busy day. Nestled down Ekkamai Soi 12, the blissful spa welcomes you with a spacious, minimal lobby bathed in natural light, helping you to relax as you wait for your treatment. The spa offers a variety of sessions, from the 50-minute Head and Shoulder Massage (B800) and stressmelting 95-minute Hot Stone Massage (B2,500) to the more intense 120-minute Deep Tissue Massage (B3,000). For an indulgent experience, check out their White Wood Green Therapeutic Signature Massage (B2,500 for 95 minutes/B3,400 for two-anda-half hours). The treatment includes an aromatherapy essential oil massage, followed up by hot towels and a hot stone compress to help eliminate tension and blockages in the back. To keep you refreshed, a warm cup of bael tea and Thai snacks are served after your massage session. 53 Ekkamai Soi 12, 061-802-2244. Open daily 10am-10pm

[DAILY GRIND]

4 electric kettles for the perfect pour-over

Xiaomi “Youlg” Kettle B1,267 lazada.co.th

Hario V60 Drip Kettle “Buono” in matte black B2,649 lazada.co.th

MARKET

CO-WORKING

TECH

Shop and enjoy weekend events at On Nut’s latest popup market

JustCo unveils a shiny new branch at Amarin Plaza

Insanely affordable wireless earbuds that pack a punch

Through Aug 31, The Mall Group and property developer Sansiri are teaming up for M Communi, a market featuring vending trucks and wholesome weekend events at On Nut’s eco-friendly T77. Expect curated lifestyle goods like reusable tumblers from Kinto and Refill Station, tote bags from Organic Supply and air-purifying plants from More Jungle; kitchenware, sports gear, fashion accessories, home appliances and cosmetics from pop-up trucks; and food courtesy of Emporium and EmQuartier FoodHall. 77 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 02269-1000. Open Mon 11am-6pm; Sat-Sun 3pm-7pm

Following the launch of its largest co-working space at Samyan Mitrtown, Singapore-born JustCo has now secured a new spot at Amarin Tower. The 5th-floor space occupies 4,500 sq-meters with direct access to BTS Chit Lom and features large breakout areas and casual lounges for much-needed downtime. Other amenities include a hot-desk area (B990/month), training room and phone booths. Members can also enjoy a host of perks via “JShop,” ranging from business services to lifestyle and wellness deals. 5/F, Amarin Tower, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-055-8606. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm

What: Honor Choice True Wireless Earbuds Price: B849 Why? Honor, a smartphone brand under Huawei, has launched its first wireless earbuds. They let you stream your favorite tunes for up to six hours on a single charge, while the charging case holds three full charges, offering up to 24 hours of total playback. Audio-wise, the 7mm diaphragm HD Driver System delivers crisp, clear vocals with deep bass. Their ergonomic design means these buds should fit snugly in your ears, and they come with IP54-certified splash and dust resistance to boot. Available at lazada.co.th

Bodum “Melior” Kettle B3,640 central.co.th

Brewista “Artisan” Kettle B5,280 thehomebarista.com

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht

BUY IT FRITZ HANSEN “IKEBANA VASE” Elevate your home with these beautiful Japanese-inspired vases (from B5,900).

BIN IT BOTTEGA VENETA SQUARE-TOETHONG SANDALS These just make you look try-hard.

BARGAIN KINOKUNIYA Spend B1,000 or more online and collect in store to receive a free B50 voucher; through Sep 30.

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

HOT OFF THE PASS

Saawaan reopens with a new tasting menu spanning regional flavors A COOK’S TOUR

After a three-month hiatus, Suan Phlu’s award show-climber Saawaan is back in action with a new 10-course tasting menu (B1,980). Following the format of a traditional Thai meal and drawing inspiration from street food culture, chefs Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn and Arisara “Paper” Chongphanitkul highlight regional flavors using premium local products. Think tangy gaeng som with barracuda from Ranong and in-season snakefruit; smoked Nakhon Pathom quail with an awesome somtam dressing; and sweet-savory beef tongue gaeng massaman, featuring a homemade curry paste, almonds and grapes. The menu showcases different methods common in Thai cooking—boiling, charcoal-grilling, fermenting, the use of raw ingredients—and every dish features the creative flair we’ve come to expect from chef Aom. The stir-fried frog pad cha, for instance, arrives on a lotus pad and features a river weed crisp and “rain drops” of lesser ginger-laced sauce. For dessert, chef Paper showcases Thai chocolate from Chantaburi, Chumphon and Chiang Mai in a deeply satisfying combination of choux, crémeux and ice cream. To drink, you can select from a carefully curated pairing of Old and New World wines (B1,890), or opt for the exclusive tea pairing (B680), which features jungle-grown teas, plus kombucha, from Monsoon Teas. 39/19 Soi Suan Phlu, 02-679-3775

HEAD OVER HEALS

BEEF UP

DUDE, SWEET

Legendary drag queen Pangina Heals opens her own bar

Bangkok’s delivery-only gourmet burger specialist rolls out more options

This unpretentious pop-up in Ari is serving crazy-cheap drinks

One of Southeast Asia’s best known drag artists and “Drag Race Thailand” co-host, Pangina Heals, launched her own “drag showbar” earlier this month. Fronted by a giant pink and silver stiletto, House of Heals seeks to create a space where everyone can feel safe, have fun and not fear being different. Described by the star as “a jungle safari of luxury, fantasy and wonder,” the bar is home to live music, DJs and drag shows from the likes of “Drag Race Thailand” season one runner-up Annee Maywong and the “Ariana Grande of Thailand,” Kandy Zyanide. Five Fifteen Victory Hotel, 5/15 Phayathai Rd., 099-336-6262

Available for delivery only, newly launched Burger X specializes in affordable gourmet burgers, starring pasture-raised, hormone- and preservative-free Thai-French beef patties and fresh-baked brioche buns. Go for the Bacon X Red Pepper Jam (pork B230; beef B250) topped with crispy bacon, melted cheddar cheese, sweet and sour red pepper jam, and herbed mayo, or the tangy new Blue Cheese Burger (pork B240; beef B260) with curly fries (B110) and onion rings (B70), or a guilt-assuaging grilled chicken salad (B130). Order via phone (099105-4646), Line (@burgerx_thailand) or Lineman and follow their Facebook page for regular deals.

Scene-defining party organizer Dudesweet is back with Mischa Cheap, a three-month pop-up bar in front of Ari’s Josh Hotel. In a bamboo shack barely big enough to fit two people, you’ll find random decor, like an illuminated self-portrait of van Gogh, disco balls and a still frame of a UFO. You’ll also find Note Pongsuang (a.k.a. Note Dudesweet) and the gang serving drinks so cheap you’ll rub your eyes in disbelief: Isaan rum and soda (B100), “Teens of Thailand’s” G&T (B160), absinthe (B160). It’s odd, fun and the opposite fancy, and that’s the point. Ari Soi 4, Fang Nua Alley, IG @mischacheap

PIECE OF THE PIE Thonglor is ready to welcome its own branch of Soho Pizza this month. The New York-style pizzaby-the-slice powerhouse made a name for itself on Sukhumvit Soi 11 early last year before branching out to the Commons Saladaeng and The Mall Ngamwongwan.

BUFFETS AIN’T DEAD The Rain Tree Café at The Athenee Hotel—home of one of our fave luxury brunch buffets—reopened this month with a new concept for the new normal. Their “rolling buffet” sees the goods brought to your table, with hot and cold dishes and desserts served from trolleys, plus live chef stations providing tableside cooking. The weekend brunch is available SatSun noon-3:30pm, priced at B2,500 per head, inclusive of soft drinks.

OFF THE STREET Currently under development, Ari’s new “urban canteen,” Feast Ratchakru, promises to shower local office workers with new lunch options while acting as a home for ousted street food vendors. Early announcements suggest it will go beyond street eats, too, with brands including Mont Dao coffee, Babu Cha bubble tea and Eric Kayser bakery in the portfolio.

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food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 24, 2020

ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

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Aesop’s

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Baan Suriyasai This space offers four different experiences for your party: fine dining with royal Thai cuisine; tea parties at the al fresco terrace or lush garden; the masculine-looking bar offers classic drinks; and cooking classes with your loved ones. 174 Surawong Rd., 065-931-4338. Open daily 10am-1am

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120 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1, 062-567-7751. Open Sun-Thu 6-11pm; Fri-Sat 6pm-10pm

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Pizza Massilia

Aesop’s

Nothing can beat the joy of having a pizza party. Here, get your fill of delicate Italy-meets-France pizzas. 15/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Phloen Chit Rd., 094-5522025. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-10pm

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UNO MAS 54th-story views set the backdrop to a laid-back party. The tapas menu and fancy cold cuts, and drinks, help too. 54/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 4pm-10pm. BTS Siam

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UNO MAS

food & drink | open door

Cadence carries on chef Dan Bark’s Michelin-starred legacy The buzz: Chef Dan Bark moves his Michelin-starred Upstairs concept down the road, turning a spacious Ekkamai townhouse into the restaurant of his dreams. The vibe: Behind a Brutalist concrete wall, you’ll first find Caper bar, the point of passage into Cadence. After a pre-dinner Manhattan, you’ll enter a mirror-filled room, where the maître d’ will offer you a flute of Champagne to decompress before guiding you into a dining room hallmarked by pendant lights, gold accents and cleverly placed curves. The design is as functional as it is handsome, catering to Bark’s personal approach to service: all the cream-colored semi-circle banquettes face an open kitchen, which flows into the dining room, lubricating interaction between guests and the service team. The food: Every dish on the 15-course menu (B4,300) relates to Bark’s journey in some way. Ocean, a starter of a fresh oyster, salmon tartare crisp and piña colada-filled orb resting on a glowing bowl of marbles, recalls trips to Hua Hin with his partner, when they would watch the Gatsby-like lights of the squid boats. Beef, on the other hand, draws on his Korean heritage. After selecting your knife from a collection the couple picked up in Europe, you tuck into New Zealand

wagyu with soju-pickled plum and ssamjang (a gochujang-based sauce). It might be the fanciest take on Korean BBQ on Earth, and it’s outrageously good. For dessert, Dark Chocolate sends you off with layers of creamy mousse, earthy beetroot and an intrigue-raising amount of truffle. The drink: Caper bartender Chris Simon offers an eight-course cocktail pairing (B2,000) with simple names like Gin that belie complex, exciting mixes. Featuring Champagne, gin, and horseradish, that French 75 spinoff is tailor-made for oysters. The wagyu course goes with Bourbon, an Old Fashioned-like drink that incorporates beef reduction into the mix. The wine pairing (B3,000 New World/B3,800 Old World), meanwhile, is handled by Oregonian Charity Waltenbaugh. With the New World option, you might get a fruit-driven 2017 “Lia” Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Patricia Green Cellars; with the Old World, an oaky, sweet-finishing La Bota de Oloroso 74 “Montilla” sherry. Why we’d come back: The experience is as impeccably manicured as it gets, and the food and drinks program keeps you feeling excited about what’s coming next. Craig Sauers

225 Pridi Banomyong Soi 25, 091-713-9034. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-late

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 24, 2020

Phuket’s Shake Shack-style burgers hit Sukhumvit

Viva Filipinas

NEW AND NOTED

This sleek cafe injects modernity into Sam Yot

Sathorn welcomes a lush, pet-friendly hangout

A fun-loving Filipino restaurant lands near Phetchaburi

Taking over a three-story corner shophouse opposite The Old Siam Plaza’s Sino-Portuguese buildings, Varen comes with a minimal white facade and black-framed glass windows. Almost half of the space inside is dedicated to the black terrazzo counter, where you can order pour-over coffee (B140) in a choice of house blend (milk chocolate, burnt caramel and floral notes), seasonal blend (bright, juicy, sweet, grape and mandarin orange notes) and special blend (floral, milk chocolate and sugar cane notes; extra B20). For something different, try their namesake drink, Varen (cold brew coffee and apple juice; B150), paired with Basque burnt cheesecake (B115). 14 Tri Phet Rd., 081-692-9999

A black wrought iron-style gate opens onto a winding green lawn at Sathorn’s pet-friendly garden hideaway, Hide Park. Grab a table amid the trees and mini waterfall to enjoy everything from all-day breakfast, like Egg in the Park (eggs Benedict with sauteed mushrooms and red spinach; B300), to heartier dishes like wood-fired pizzas (from B250) and artichoke salad with feta (B280). To drink, order an energy-boosting juice or usher in the weekend with wine (from B280/glass or B1,400/bottle for 2016 Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio), mojitos (B250) and beers (from B150 for Singha). 122 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-235-7127

Hidden on the fourth floor of Petchaburi’s Akara Bangkok hotel, Viva Filipinas is on a mission to become a hub for the city’s Filipino community. Although it comes from the owners of Lola’s Kitchen, the menu is entirely different. Order the Smoked Rellenong Bangus (B390)—a taste explosion of minced milkfish with carrots, potatoes, raisins, bell pepper, pickles and spices—and the roasted rolled pork belly with pickled papaya (B55), followed by the creamy coconut-based Buko Pie (B160). The happy hour deals (5-8pm) will provide the courage to get up on stage and sing your song request with the live band, with the exceptionally friendly staff cheering you on. 4/F, Akara Bangkok, 372 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 064-614-4075

Halfway between Asoke and Phrom Phong, Phuket import Prime Burger (497 Sukhumvit Rd., 093-583-8700) TABLE TALK not only bears a logo similar to beGianni Ristorante loved NY-based burger chain Shake Shack, it also busts out remarkably G/F, Athenee Tower, Witthayu Rd, 02-168-8080. familiar-looking patties. Burgers Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm(all B245 single/B295 double/B375 triple) Oneare of Bangkok's beloved restaurants now has stylized by most city, from theitalian classic a new the Plaza beef, Athenee Hotel, but the location Newhome York in(Australian cheese, onions, pickles, and mayo) change doesn’t meanketchup it still doesn't do top-notch food. Italian the in Dubai chicken burger andwhere the it is today without fine to dining Bangkok would not be Tokyo deep-fried fish burger. Veggies Gianni Favro. The longtime chef has delighted local rainmakers optmovers for thefor halloumi-based Aiyawith Mediterraneanandcan power the past 20 years Napa, while vegans are covered with inflected dishes, educating diners on the nuances of Dover the Beyond Burger (from B245). Sides sole, burrata and handmade pasta along the way. The refined range from waffle fries (B130) to chilisetting echoes the restaurant’s reputation. cheese poppers (B110) and Caesar salads (B110).

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on a la carte only 01 Jun ’20 – 31 May ’21

food & drink | open door

TABLE TALK

Mediterra No. 14, Soi Sukhumvit 23 (Prasanmit), 02-115-7776. Open daily noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm One of the newest players on the Italian fine-dining block, Mediterra actually opened post-lockdown, so this is about as fresh as a restaurant can get these days. They’re not pulling any punches either. Specializing in Southern Italian cuisine, a style punctuated by the region's boldly flavored vegetables and bountiful seafood by the nearby Medditerranean Sea. Here, Chef Walter D'Ambrosio delights you with a unique selection of raw and cured seafood delicacies, all homemade pastas, pizzas, premium fish and meat main courses as well as traditional desserts. They say, “lunch is an experience, dinner is a party”, and we believe them.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount and get a complimentary dessert valued THB 280 when spending THB 1,000 or more / sales slip 01 Jul ’20 – 30 Jun ’21

Paradise Lost

Basic Specialty Coffee

NEW AND NOTED

The Siam neighborhood gets a neo-tropical rooftop bar that locals will love

Saphan Kwai’s Scandi-chic coffee shop spotlights specialty roasts

Projection art and cocktails meet in Phrom Phong

Opening in August on the 25th floor of the Siam@Siam hotel, Paradise Lost brings tropical vibes to a district sorely lacking good nightlife venues. The rooftop bar is awash in pastel pink and canary yellow as well as lush green plants, recalling the aesthetic of 1960s Miami. Art Deco touches like soft curves and portholes are offset by a fractured neon sign screaming the name of the bar and an eclectic soundtrack. For drinks, expect tropical cocktails imbued with sustainable produce and Eco Spirits, a closed-loop distribution system brought to Bangkok by spirits company Bootleggers (prices and details TBD). 865 Rama I Rd., fb.com/paradiselostbangkok

From the same people behind nitro coffee specialists Eureka comes the minimal Basic Specialty Coffee, a Saphan Kwai cafe featuring a small menu of slow bar brews. Americanos, espressos, lattes and flat whites are available in house blend (B60), specialty blends (B80) or rare roasts (B150), like red honey process Costa Rican beans. There are also a handful of teas, including matcha (B70) and hojicha (B70), that you can enjoy along with a ham-cheese croissant sandwich (B90) or a hearty brownie with Madagascar vanilla bean ice cream (B140). 14-16 Phahon Yothin Rd., 080-957-9592

Combining technology, music and art, Pin31 comes with a lounge area equipped with projection mapping, which is used to take guests on virtual tours of far-flung destinations like Paris. As you immerse yourself in this unique experience, you can sip on equally inventive cocktails from a menu that highlights reimagined classics like the Coconut Martini (gin, coconut, vermouth), as well as sweet treats like the Peanut Butter & Chocolate with cognac and popcorn, and the more refreshing rum- and sparkling wine-based Honey & Elderflower (all B380). The bar also doubles up as a studio, exhibition and event, collaborating with and supporting local artists. 6/F, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-005-4010

food & drink | taste test

Who makes the best Basque burnt cheesecake?

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 24, 2020

Patisserie Rosie The place: Thonglor’s patisserie darling has been killing it with Winner! contemporary twists on French classics since 2015. The taste: We knew right away that this is the “it” slice, with an oozing middle (like a perfect medium-rare steak), satisfying jiggle and a nice sink on the perfectly-browned surface. Taste wise, it’s tangy and not overly sweet with a mousse-like texture and a hint of vanilla—need we say more? Oh, it comes with fresh berries, too. Price: B190/slice Verdict: Get in our bellies

Pablo

When it comes to food trends, we are more than willing to go out of our way to try them. Wait in a mile-long line for donuts? Fork out the price of two meals for a bag of popcorn? Spend our entire lunch break queuing for tacos? Yes, yes and yes. Now it’s the reign of Basque burnt cheesecake. Who started the trend? We have no idea, but getting that caramelized burnt top while maintaining a gooey centre of eggs, cream cheese and sugar is no mean feat. We’re here to find out who nails it.

The place: Masamitsu Sakimoto—the brains Runner behind this Osaka-born Up! chain of cheese tart shops—treats baking like a work of art, so he named his brand after the legendary Spanish painter. The taste: Though it is not as shiny as the others, the top has a pleasing chocolatey color. The consistency is on the dense and crumbly side, but the cake melts in our mouths, leaving a creamy, fragrant and moreish aftertaste. We could pablo-bly devour the whole thing in one sitting. Price: B295/dainty cheesecake Verdict: Pablo Honey

Truly Scrumptious The place: Tucked-away on Sukhumvit Soi 49, this European-style cafe serves up beautiful homemade cakes and baked goods.

The taste: This slice looks like a perfectly cut, Tom and Jerry-like cheese wedge. The taste is nicely balanced between sweet and salty, while its intense flavor almost tastes like parmesan—in a good way. The only downside is that it sticks to your palate. Price: B210 Verdict: Say cheese

The Burnt Cheesecake Store With No Name The place: Somewhere in Lad Phrao, the owner of this newly-opened Facebook store under the temporary name “Cheesecake.lover 47” doles out freshly-baked Basque burnt cheesecake in a lovely delivery box. The taste: This one in particular reminds us of the custardy khanom mor gaeng, with its umber browning and smooth texture. It has tangy and mildly sweet notes but the jelly-like texture makes us question if it’s worth the calories or not. Price: B380/hefty cheesecake Verdict: Jelly legs

Cheevit Cheeva

Meh!

The place: Hailing from Chiang Mai, this lively dessert chain is well-known for its Thai-style bua loy and coconut milk bingsu. The taste: Despite the flawless plateau dip of that finely browned top, it disappoints us with a very subtle, onedimensional flavor. Plus, the consistency is super light and airy like a sponge cake. We find ourselves continuously coming back to it but we can’t find what we’re looking for. Price: B135/slice Verdict: Basique

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 24, 2020

KRABI

Why now is the perfect time to visit Koh Phi Phi

See Bangkok through fresh eyes with Smiling Albino’s local adventures

Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort

Notoriously swarmed by tourists, Phi Phi island is making the most of its well-earned break. As marine life recovers around Maya Bay, locals are organizing beach clean-ups while places like the beachfront Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort are focusing on eco-conscious activities. The resort’s Marine Discovery Center is running programs that reintroduce clownfish to the sea and plant coral in a marine nursery, as well as offering mangrove tours by kayak. Thai residents and expats who book before Jul 31 can take advantage of their buy-one-get-one deals, valid on stays and excursions until Dec 25 this year (superior bungalows from B5,500/night). phiphiislandvillage.com

Ori9in

CHIANG MAI

BANGKOK

This sprawling Chiang Celebrate the Park Mai farm will soon open Hyatt’s third birthday for agro-tourism with staycation deals

BANGKOK

With inbound tourism still off the cards, eco-conscious travel company Smiling Albino has launched a new customizable “Local” series with Bangkok residents in mind. Become a tourist in your own city and meet unsung local heroes with “Cycle Hidden Thonburi” or discover off-the-map gems as you cruise Bangkok’s maze of canals with “Liquid Bangkok.” Is eating more your thing? Then munch your way through lesser-known ancient recipes with “Aromatic Chinatown” while discovering fascinating stories of the communities that are fighting to stay put in the face of modernization. Prices start from B2,350 for a half-day trip; part of the proceeds goes towards local projects. Visit smilingalbino.com/local to book.

Occupying 885 rai in Chiang Mai’s rural San Sai district, sustainable farm Ori9in aims to cut down on carbon emissions produced by pricey imports. Through a community garden and rentable farming space, the project will supply chefs with quality organic ingredients using “no fuel” farming methods, solar energy and hydroponics. Backed by the Banyan Tree group and run by James Noble and his wife, May—the pair behind Pranburi’s Boutique Farmers—the farm is also home to zero-waste pop-up restaurant Waiting for May. By October, Ori9in will open to the public with Asia’s largest corn maze, crop-planting classes and more. ori9inthegourmetfarm.com

Take advantage of 9am check-in and 6pm check-out with the Park Hyatt Bangkok’s staycation package (B8,888/night for a standard room—usually B10,800), or upgrade to the premium package (B11,888/night) to receive B3,000 in F&B credits and a complimentary bottle of wine. Both prices are net and include breakfast for two and access to the hotel spa’s steam room, sauna and Jacuzzi tubs. Need a break but don’t want to spend the night? The hotel is also offering “daycations” from 9am-6pm. For more information, call 02012-1234 or email bangkok.park@hyatt.com

neighborhood | Pak Klong Talad

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 24, 2020

Sunflower

Barbon

Woodbrook

Blooming Lovely Centered around Pak Klong Talad, this blossoming part of the Old Town runs at its own pace. In the early hours, the flower market is jam-packed with customers from every part of the city, while by 11am a completely different crowd descends, hungry to explore the area’s hip cafes, restaurants and bars. By Supanan Anansuviroj

Coffee & Breakfast Have breakfast like a local at the 80-year-old On Lok Yun (eggs, bacon, sausage, ham and Chinese sausage; B95) before fueling up on Valentines (hot latte topped with edible gold dust; B140) at minimalist cafe Varen. Take in the view of the Chao Phraya at Woodbrook with an iced Black Yuzu Americano (B150) and spicy bacon spaghetti (B240), then finish on a sweet note with lemon poppy seed cake and raspberry rose pound cake (both B160) at flower shop-turned-cafe Floral Cafe at Napasorn, or a scoop of gelato (B70) at the cozy Farm to Table.

Lunch & Dinner Pay a visit to the uber-cool former garage, Rongros, for their gaeng kiaw wan kai (chicken green curry served with roti; B260). Right next door, Supanniga Eating Room doles out southern-meets-

eastern Thai dishes like Surat Thani crab meat stir-fried with yellow chili paste (B642), while you can enjoy more prime Wat Arun views from Above Riva’s alfresco terrace as you much on tom yum goong fettucini (B621). Head to Mayrai Padthai, where Le Du’s chef Ton nails the restaurant’s namesake street dish (from B79), or book a seat upstairs to indulge in authentic Thai flavors (B1,900 for 12-course tasting menu) at the intimate Nusara.

Drinks If you wish to bar-hop, you’ll need to branch out a little. Warm up your engine with a cocktail at riverside Barbon before waltzing your way to neon-drenched Shuu Shuu for some umeshu (from B100). Catch an express boat to Tha Tien to score a seat with riverside scenery at Long Tian (Sandport Beer, B260), or amp it up at

Sao Chingcha’s laid-back rooftop Swing Bar with a Phranakorn Swing (B180), a refreshing mix of black Polish vodka and watermelon. Before you pass out, hit up the secretive Ku Bar for cocktails (from B350) and natural wine.

Transport MRT Sanam Chai is a fourminute walk away.

Visit If you’re into history, Museum Siam is the place to go. Want to shop? Visit The Old Siam Plaza—it’s like Siam Paragon for old-timers. Embracing that slow life? Head to Sunflower for a good old chinwag with the cordial owners over a cold brew. Aspiring photographers will strike gold at the raw-looking Saphan Phut, close to the recently opened Chao Phraya Skypark. And, of course, stop by the Flower Market for a vibrant assault on the senses.

Accommodation Apartment and condo rentals in this area are hard to find, so you’ll have to rely on the slew of hip hostels instead. B920/night will land you a private room with a double bed at Hostel Urby, while the aesthetically-pleasing rooms at neighboring Pieces Cafe and Bed run from B1,600/night. The Onion Hostel offers a family room with two double beds for B917/night. Over at Elefin Bed and Breakfast, a single room with a private bathroom starts from B897/night.

BK ASKS

Why do you love Pak Klong Talad?

SOMPONG PETCHDEE, OWNER OF LEELAWADEE FLORIST I’ve been living here since I was 17; life was better before the market was [made-over, but] you can still find a perfect book, beautiful flowers and cheap fresh fruit.

JIRAPORN THIANGCHUM, MANAGER OF FARM TO TABLE It’s undeniable that the true charm of Pak Klong Talad is the flower market, but the people in the neighborhood are even more charming.

SUPATTHARACHAI CHUETHAMASORN AND PAPITCHA THANASOMBOON, FOUNDERS OF SUNFLOWER It’s like we’re in a different time zone than everyone; the flower market gets really busy between 4 and 5am, so we get to live at a slower pace for the rest of the day.