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NO. 793 NOV 13, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com
it's free! Journalism 101 Thailand’s most endearing reporter opens up about instant fame Blank Canvas Young Thai artists turn to social media to speak up about the protests Getting Jiggy The Kimpton Maa-Lai launches a chic cocktail bar for globe-trotters Intha It Overlooked Soi Inthamara-Sutthisan has more going on than you think
NO. 793 NOVEMBER 13, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com
No more Trump, please
What happens now?
Reporters, protestors, political figures, and academics tell us how Thailand’s latest protests will end
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020
Who's in charge? BK EDITORIAL
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Managing Editor Craig Sauers
upfront
Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley,
Meet Artie, Thailand’s most endearing journalist
Veerabhatr Sriyananda Contributors Megan Leon, Chayanit Itthipongmaetee, Thitima Sukontaros, Todd Ruiz GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu
03
Thai generals offer Trump advice for seizing power
Account Manager Summer Lee Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Digital Strategist Manasith Linananda
WASHINGTON, D.C.—Highlighting a rich tradition of illegitimately claiming power against the will of the majority, several retired and current Thai generals today offered U.S. President Donald Trump advice for seizing control of a divided nation and asserting his authority over the reeling masses.
Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana Marketing and Events Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Marketing and Events Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Head of Business Development Chaz Kim
04 cover
10 experts tell us how the protests will turn out
Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Manager Sippakorn Prasert,
How will this all end?
Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Kaewchavee, Joseph Toh Business Development Executives Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Kornkanok Sriwaranant, Palita Nueangnit SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri
“If there is one thing we do better than anyone, it is backdooring the political apparatus and assuming power when our nation is internally tearing itself apart,” wrote retired Gen. Kris Songsawat in a letter addressed to the beleaguered leader of the free world, who at the time of writing was staring down the barrel of a bitter loss to rival septuagenarian Joe Biden. “If you would like our assistance, we can send in our most vocal political agitators to raise hell and ensure the proper conditions to stage a coup.”
Interns Kanicha Nualkhair Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas
Co-signed by several past and current Thai coup-leaders, all of whom now either serve as members of parliament or hold lucrative C-suite positions with corporations supportive of the current regime, a second letter to the former reality TV star and frequently litigated businessman expressed regret that Trump had not heeded their calls to control the outcome of the general election before it occurred. The generals noted they had offered tips for suppressing voters, dissolving popular political parties, and forcing into exile rival leaders likely to win a majority of votes, “all based on decades of experience.”
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At press time, Trump was witnessed in the Oval Office on a call with Gen. Kris, cupping the speaker on the telephone as he leaned over to his chief of staff and asked, “Thailand is with a soft ‘th,’ right?”
BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited. The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.
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While much of the United States had remained in a dissociative fugue state, as totally avoidable delays in counting absentee and mail-in ballots dragged on for days, the generals admitted watching with giddy anticipation as rival factions confronted one another in cities across the country. “The conditions are ripe, Mr. President. With both sides at the others’ throat, now is the time to send in the tanks, take control of the broadcasts, and spin the narrative in your favor,” they wrote, incorrectly citing Fox News as a state-run media organization. “There is still time to doctor images, discredit your adversaries, and discount thousands of ballots in your so-called ‘Rust Belt.’”
neighborhood
InthamaraSutthisan
upfront HOT OR NOT
AUSPICIOUSNESS Really miss flying for more than an hour? Enjoy squinting your eyes, scanning the earth below, and wondering if that’s a religious site you see down there or just a rock? Then you’ll love
Thailand’s most endearing journalist opens up about his life and work
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LONG-HAUL FLIGHTS If missing out on sweet, wintry photo-ops in Seoul and Tokyo this year weren’t enough, when we can fly to those destinations for fun again, we might have to shell out a little extra scratch to do it. AirAsia X, the low-cost carrier’s lowish-cost long-haul division, has run out of cash and needs USD120.60 million to restart. That’s
INTERVIEW
B3.75 billion, in case
With his unorthodox, on-the-spot reporting style and light-hearted personality, Patpon “Artie” Sabpaitoon has arguably become Thailand’s most admired journalist, particularly with the younger crowd, for his coverage of the protests. We got in touch with him now that he is on quasi-sabbatical at The Bangkok Post to reveal his real life goals and how things have changed now that his name is on everybody’s lips.
How did it all begin for you? It was random. At the time, I was quite lost—“Kafka on The Shore” kind of lost. I [had been] eliminated from the MFA (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) list. I didn’t know where to go. I was devastated, doubting myself whether I was good enough. When I finally moved on, I wanted to do something where I could utilize my skills as an international relations student. I found the [job] ad. Applied. Got the job. Have you always wanted to be a journalist? No. Not once did I think of becoming a journalist. The love for the profession, however, flourished as I was growing in this path. There are misconceptions about my dreams and what I wanted to become. To set the record straight, all I ever wanted to do is sing. Singing is my life, my only purpose. That’s all I ever wanted to do, to write my own songs and sing them. What’s the most important quality a journalist should have? Open-mindedness. When you cover an event, pretend as if you are a camera: capture the moment without filling it with your biases. As a student of humanity, I have learned to respect people around me. We all have stories to tell. Don’t just make assumptions about someone’s life; listen to them, look through their own eyes. You’ll never know someone or something until you really get the chance to talk to them and experience it. How do you conduct yourself when it comes to politics? When I first started out as a journalist, the editor asked me which “desks” I wanted to work on. “Life,” I replied, because I love art, film, and music. He decided to send me to the politics desk. Working as a politics and foreign affairs journalist was an excruciatingly painful experience, but it also taught me numerous priceless takeaways, which I will forever be grateful for. What do you think of the situation [of the protests] right now? Do you see a way out? Politics is nothing but a struggle for power. It bores me to death. But I advocate freedom of assembly and freedom of expression with
you were wondering.
BANS all my heart. Nobody can take those away from the Thai people. And, well, If I can come up with a solution to bring Thailand out of political quagmire, I would probably get a Nobel prize. Don’t you think so? [laughs] What’s the situation between you and the Bangkok Post? What happened? *Sips tea* Okay, how do you feel now that you’ve been thrust into stardom? I hate being famous as a journalist, trust me. It’s so damn hard to work. People will form narratives about you and “who you are.” They won’t give you a chance to explain yourself because they have already made up their mind about the “real you.” But everybody’s entitled to their own opinion. When the #saveARTIE hashtag rose to number one on Twitter Thailand, it got me feeling so anxious. I never wanted to become famous as a journalist. The only thing I want to see on any number one lists are the songs I wrote.
Palang Pracharath deputy leader Paiboon Nititawan has come up with a totally legit way to quell the simmering political crisis: just ban rallies for a couple of years. Since freedom of assembly somehow snuck its way into our latest constitution, Paiboon
What has been your favorite memory or moments from reporting at the protests? When the people helped hold the camera for me.
noted that we can
What would be your advice to aspiring journalists who, someday, might want to become like you? Don’t become like me. Don’t idolize me. Idolize the profession—be the voice of the voiceless. Be the voice of reason. Seek truth. Report only fair, unbiased, and accurate info, and report it honestly. Then the truth will carry you wherever you want to go.
people feel about
What’s next for you? A Pulitzer or Grammy perhaps? [laughs]
still hold a referendum to see how the giving up one of their essential liberties until 2022.
FORESIGHT You can ban rallies and ignore calls for reform but taking away Pornhub is a step too far. After the IT minister ordered Internet service providers to shut off access to the NSFW website, fresh calls for protests emerged among the pornstarved masses— including many who said they hadn’t even been participating in the political rallies, but who rightly pointed
By Veerabhatr Sriyananda and Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
out that their freedoms keep diminishing.
cover | will there be blood?
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2020
How will this all end? Winning over the middle
Expect a coup– and soon
Tripop Leelasestaporn, political commentator and online provocateur
Sondhi Limthongkul, Thai media mogul and leader of the People’s Alliance for Democracy, better known as the Yellow Shirt movement
It would be naive of me to say that there will be no violence involved in changing society, and I don’t think a 100-percent peaceful protest can pressure Prayuth and his regime either. Despite the historical precedents, I don’t think this will lead to bloodshed like the Thammasat Massacre. It wasn’t a fear of losing the monarchy that gave rise to the massacre, but rather the government stoking fear of communism. Now it’s another story. I don’t believe that the king’s abdication is a consensus goal of the protesters. The idea of making Thailand a republic has been circulating, but their primary goal is to reform the monarchy, not wipe it out. It is undeniable that the royal family has been an integral part of Thai society, and the old propaganda remains deeply entrenched in people’s thinking. The movement will need more centrists who want change but are opposed to becoming a republic. Many are afraid to speak it aloud, so we need to make sure that there’s nothing seen as wrong about changing our royal family. These demands are not against the monarchy—they are to make sure it can be still relevant in our society.
Politics is all about compromise. But in Thailand, when you talk about compromise, you’re talking about the rich and powerful versus the poor and [powerless]. Thailand has had a lot of confrontations like this. The way out has always been a coup d’état. It’s an evil cycle. You have a coup d’état, the people rise up against the military, the military steps back, there’s a new election, and then there’s a deadlock again. Nothing changes. Now, this protest is different. This protest has, for the first time, been able to utilize the power of social media. And it’s the first time, too, that the monarchy has been attacked—a direct and outright attack. It is quite clear this is going toward the abolishment of the monarchy. For instance, there’s an article in the constitution which outlaws criticizing the king and queen. If they eradicate this article, it means maybe 10,000 people can give the middle finger to the king or queen, call them “bastard” or “asshole,” whatever [they say] now. But what I think is happening is the empire strikes back… and the students will lose, because most people in Thailand still believe we need the monarchy. I think there’s going to be a coup d’état. Very soon.
Grief and pain Thitinan Pongsudhirak, Chulalongkorn University political scientist There is no such “ending” as in “how it ends,” only an ongoing evolution. What besets Thailand now is similar to tensions and challenges to absolute monarchy 100 years ago. The protest movement then among newly educated and up-and-coming bureaucratic elites, civilians, and military replaced entrenched absolutism with fledgling constitutionalism. Yet the monarchy was able to later regroup and regain ground in a symbiotic relationship with the military by the late 1950s. The extraordinary force of personality under King Bhumibol and his 70year reign ultimately placed the throne at the apex of Thai socio-political hierarchy amidst regional communist expansionism. As Thailand kept communism away and ushered in economic development, the resulting conservative political order from the Cold War era now faces bottom-up challenges from younger generations fed up with crises, coups, and constitutions that preserve the status quo. These young Thais under 40 want to reclaim a future held hostage by the old order. The destination is clear. Thailand will need to set up a political system with democratic legitimacy and reformed monarchy. The force of history ensures it, but getting there will likely be contentious, full of grief and pain.
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With Thailand at an unprecedented crossroads in history, and the threat of a violent crackdown perpetually looming, we asked leading commentators, academics, reports, protestors, and ex-politicians to game out where the protest movement is headed —and if a peaceful resolution is possible. By Chayanit Itthipongmaetee, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Thitima Sukontaros, Veerabhatr Sriyananda, Kanicha Nualkhair, Todd Ruiz, and Craig Sauers
Government must change course
Forcing the hand of change
Fuadi Pitsuwan, scholar and political scientist
Narinya Mongkoleiam, online political commentator and influencer
The government will have to realize that the onus is on them to not escalate the conflict. The more the authorities try to suppress the movement, the more it’ll get stronger. I am hoping for a compromise. I am hoping the parliament will quickly amend the constitution, which should incorporate some of the protesters’ demands. Anything short of that would not end well. I don’t mean just the loss of lives, but the legitimacy of the government and the Thai state internationally.
The protesters will have to fight for a long time, a few years maybe, to get what they want if the government engages in stall tactics. It’s hard to get all three demands met. I don’t think changes can occur at all without this government being dissolved. It will be the first domino that begins the chain of events.
Violence doesn’t have to be inevitable. In the end, I hope the government changes course and listens to the demands. If not… then violence is inevitable. Kudos to the protest leaders, though, that they are trying to prevent it from happening. As for calls to reform the monarchy, I think every institution needs to reevaluate its place within the Thai polity, including the military and monarchy. We need to find a new consensus among different political players, particularly between the monarchy and the people. We used to have that in the past. Every institution needs to adapt to survive the information revolution underway globally.
Monarchy reform will be the hardest because it’s controversial—even among the prodemocracy crowd—and causes conflict within the group. But this movement has already succeeded in breaking the taboo by calling the monarchy out directly. It seems like violence will have to occur for things to really change. No one wants blood on their hands, but it seems like the government does. There would be foreign intervention if violence did happen… with international sanctions put in place, hurting the economy. The 1932 revolt was almost bloodless because the People’s Party went straight to the palace and a group of military officers was on their side. We can’t do that.
Prayuth stays in power Prachaya “Ice” Nongnuch, political reporter This could end one of two ways: in accordance with the constitution under the parliament, or the unconstitutional way, by coup. We’re not yet in a political vacuum where unconstitutional measures are needed. It’s also difficult for a coup against Gen. Prayut to happen, because we all know that the government and the army are strongly unified. What’s more likely is he will tighten his grip on power through security laws—for example, announcing another emergency decree in Bangkok or, if the situation escalates further, imposing martial law. I’d say the chances are very slim Gen. Prayuth resigns anytime soon. Could a massacre like Oct. 6, 1976, occur again? Compare past events with our current situation and you will get the answer. It’s very unlikely in this day and age because of [social media]. Worst-case scenario, and violence does happen? The government might have to retreat. We have lessons from the past, like the popular uprising of Oct 14, 1973, when Field Marshal Thanom Kittikachorn had to step down, or the Black May 1992 event, when Gen. Suchinda Kraprayoon had to resign for calm to return to Bangkok. But the 1976 massacre and 2010 military crackdown also happened because the government wouldn’t back down.
Leave it up to the majority Charnnarong Krutto, Thai Pakdee (Thai Loyalists) group Since the 1932 revolution, there have been many coups and uprisings by the Khana Ratsadon (People’s Party) and military officers. But the last two coups didn’t occur because soldiers wanted power: they were coups to eliminate elected politicians who were corrupt and only sought to benefit their own groups. Bloodshed doesn’t happen with every coup, but it can happen from using power to harm others. The current uprising is not against the dictatorship or a corrupt government but rather because a certain group, a minority, opposes the monarchy and wants to change the country from a constitutional monarchy to something else. As for the prospect of violence, we need to ask the protesters to carefully consider the fact that, at the very least, democracy rests upon the principle of majority rule. Does what they’re protesting for really represent the majority? Does everyone really benefit from what they are doing? The monarchy reforms or regime change the protesters are demanding cannot happen because there are many other people who want to keep the monarchy. Violence is avoidable as long as everyone respects the law, and as long as there is no instigation or confrontation between the two sides.
cover | will there be blood?
A whole new crossroads A curtain lifted Claudio Sopranzetti, anthropologist and author of Taa Sawang and Owners of the Map: Motorcycle Taxi Drivers, Mobility, and Politics in Bangkok The history of these movements has found that our predictions are almost always wrong. An apparent victory can become a loss, and vice versa. Specifically talking about the use of violence from the state, it’s complicated business, often decided more on the spot than planned ahead. I think that a new space has been opened for discussion of an institution which has historically been protected by a curtain of respect and fear. Those openings are hard to close and ultimately will represent the most significant outcome of this protest.
Janjira Sombutpoonsiri, German Institute for Global and Area Studies and Institute of Asian Studies at Chulalongkorn University The most likely scenario is that the authorities do not concede at all to any of the demands, which will lead to a long stalemate. Actually, this would do more damage to the ruling elites than the protesters. The repression of protesters will only lead to increased support for them. As we saw after the Oct 16 demonstration, when police dispersed the crowd with water cannons, people weren’t afraid and didn’t stay home the next day. Oct 17 and Oct 18 saw even more protesters join. I don’t know if I can say that these ongoing protests will end with violence. I think Thai society has arrived at a point we might have never seen before. Some people question if this is like the 1932 revolution or the Oct 14, 1973, uprising. It is, in some ways. But while many elements resemble past events, there are new variables such as technology, the global political context, palace dynamics, and even the protest demographics. With these variables, it’s difficult to predict whether history will repeat itself. It might, but it’s also possible that we’re reaching an unprecedented crossroads in Thai history.
The people will prevail± eventually Benjamaporn “Ploy” Nivas, leader of the Bad Student movement I honestly don’t know how this moment will end. We have been living with a flawed democracy not only for the six years of this regime, but for decades and decades, ever since my grandparents’ generation. But what’s going on right now brings fresh hope for Thai society. Every citizen should have the freedom to vote for officials who create and implement rules that better the lives of citizens instead of forming their own groups of cronies to rake in the benefits. If we don’t achieve our aims, if those wielding power don’t change and adapt to the people’s demands, there will always be an outcry from the public. Times change, and different players will always come in, but history repeats itself. No matter how long it takes—another 10, 20, 30 years—the people will prevail.
feature | visual language
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IG@wtf_political BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2020
Protest Art Pssyppl
IG@pssyppl
This fast-emerging artist and designer, who produces dark, largely satirical digital paintings that reflect the burning issues of our time, says he is “trying to break down the wall of absurd culture and restriction, which are currently blocking the unlimited ideas of art and design.” In doing so, he hopes to push Thailand’s art scene to reach its full potential. “My digital artwork focuses on events that are happening around me— events that leave me with a certain feeling inside my head, and then that feeling is molded and visualized in a sarcastic way through digital paintings. The reason I did these pieces is because of anger—anger that I cannot say anything or do anything to resist this corrupt system [that rules Thailand]. Art is my only way to express this smoldering emotion inside my mind.”
IG@sallycreatesthings
As the protests have gained momentum, many Thai creatives have turned to social media to speak their minds and lend their support for the movement through edgy and evocative protest art. In the process, some of them—like the artists here—have gone viral or seen their fan bases boom. Here are six accounts driving the conversation online and pushing to transform Thailand into a more equal nation. By Craig Sauers and Veerabhatr Sriyananda
IG@thaipface
WTF Political A curator for Silpakorn University and full-time artist, WTF Political produces arresting, jagged sketches that seem to shout more than speak about contemporary political issues. “Politics, along with art, have stuck with me since day one,” he says of his motivations. Some of his work was recently featured at WTF Bar and Gallery (no affiliation). “What I try to do with my Instagram page is convey political messages through art, kind of like a political cartoon… and make the viewers question what’s real. My work also reflects how atrocious and horrid our society can be. I have always created textual art about politics, whether it be current events or significant moments in the past, combined with a bit of satire. Without the protests, I would have continued to make this kind of art with the same messages anyway. My art isn’t the magnet that attracts the protestors—the art only follows the movement.” IG@baphoboy
Sally Creates Things This full-time designer saw her Instagram page gain several thousand followers almost overnight as the protests heated up in October. Using a style she describes as “organic, humorous, and based on storytelling,” she aims to raise awareness of social issues through hand-drawn illustrations that feature carefully selected color schemes. “I started making these political illustrations to raise awareness about what is happening in Thailand through art. I keep them vague and playful, not targeting anyone specifically. At first, there wasn’t much of a response to my work, but as I kept creating, it began to pick up. [Recently], my illustrations received over 200,000 impressions in a matter of four days. People seem to really enjoy my work, and I’m grateful for everyone supporting it. This keeps me motivated to create more artwork and bring some humor to these dark situations.”
Nakrob Moonmanas
IG@nakrobmoon
Thanks to his unique digital collages, this 30-year-old artist has seen his star rise in the art world. Nakrob says he reflects his “love-hate relationship with his own roots” by seamlessly blending existing artwork with local—and often outlandish—fragments of history and visual culture. Think John Everett Millais’ “Ophelia” plastered with characters from the Ramakien. His works have been displayed at the BACC and Seoul Museum of History. In 2020, he was selected for a residency at Cité Internationale des Arts in Paris. “I’m now during my residency far away from my hometown, but my heart is in solidarity with all my friends back home. Making art is how I can support and encourage [the protest movement]. I lose some followers on social media every time I publish political pieces, but that’s fine. Art is always free—a safe space—and we’ll never accept anyone trying to change this.”
Thaipface Thaipface is a virtual sketchbook by seven Thai creatives, who explore their relationship with the motherland while celebrating Thai type (พยัญชนะไทย) in motion. From animating the local tongue to reimagining traditional letterforms, they visually spark dialogue about social justice and contemporary issues in today’s cultural climate—consider it a playground for experimenting with typography and pushing design in an industry that’s largely client-focused. “Thaipface was created for moments like this. At this point, we are either all in or not at all. The ongoing challenges and issues of democracy bring with it movements that reveal years and years of our blind obedience to an ambiguous system. We are using our work to reclaim that stolen space of openness where it is encouraged and safe to question, critique, be vulnerable, contribute one’s talent, and grow as a community with transparency. It is time for all of us to get more involved with dreaming up a more inclusive future for our country.”
Baphoboy This 25-year-old artist—and soon-to-be army recruit, who never enrolled in the mandatory three-year ROTC training—has blown up social media. Drawing his nom de guerre from Baphomet, a deity that was chastised for having his own beliefs, “similar to me,” as he puts it, Baphoboy has gained fame and critical praise for his edgy artwork. In his pieces, he touches on everything from university hazing rituals to the army’s role in the Thammasat Massacre. “As a guy who is really defiant, I would often question things happening around me. When I got into university, for example, rules like SOTUS (seniority, order, tradition, unity, spirit) would get under my skin, so I knew I needed to make art to channel the frustrations I had in my mind. Politics doesn’t always have to mean ‘news,’ and it doesn’t always have to be serious. I hope to make the protest-related context more widespread, so more people can understand what’s going on. [I try to] add elements of surprise so that it’s more lighthearted and fun. Some people might be even more interested in the art than the protests or politics. Who knows?”
hit list | shopping
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2020
08
Comme des Garcons and Nike’s new collab drops in Bangkok FASHION
Showcased earlier this year, during the Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020 runway show, Comme des Garcons’ swoon-worthy collab sneaker with Nike is finally here—the Comme des Garcons Air Force 1 Mid. Offered in two classic Air Force 1 colorways, black and white, the two customized styles honor Nike’s iconic silhouette while playing into the Japanese label’s “Neo Future” theme for its fall-winter collection. The result? Minimalism meets avant-garde perfection. The sneakers are crafted from premium leather and feature a deconstructed upper with raw-edged paneled cut outs, alongside a stitched Swoosh branding and Comme des Garcons embossed moniker on the ankle straps. The Comme des Garcons Air Force 1 Mid are available in US sizes 5-13, priced at B12,900, exclusively at Comme des Garcons, G/F, Gaysorn Village.
[HEAD AND SHOULDERS]
How much does it cost to get a haircut at Bangkok’s leading men’s barbershops?
Never Say Cutz B450 for a haircut and shampoo
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Tew’s Barbershop B600 for a 60-minute haircut, plus shampoo and styling fb.com/tewsbarber
Black Amber B700 for a haircut and shampoo
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Barberford Noir B880 for a haircut, plus shampoo, condition, scalp massage, and set fb.com/barberford.bangkok
Truefitt & Hill B1,100 for a 45-minute “Royal Haircut” fb.com/truefittandhillbkk
MARKET
WELLNESS
TECH
Noise Market returns this November with tons of eco-friendly local brands
Checkout Yunomori Onsen’s brand-spankingnew branch
This could be the most significant iPhone release we’ve had in a long time
On Nov 28-29, popular flea market Noise Market is teaming up with organic retail store and cafe Patom for a green art and craft fair that’s all about—you guessed it—sustainable living. The Patom Organic Living x Acid Market by Noise Market will take place at Suan Sampran riverside eco-park in Nakhon Pathom, welcoming you with a bunch of stalls selling everything from organic skincare products by La’Miat to essential oils by Therapeace. So get your tote bags ready! Free entry. Moo 2, 21 Phet Kasem Rd., Nakhon Pathom, 034-322-588
Bangkok’s first full-scale onsen, Yunomori Onsen & Spa, has opened a second branch in the heart of Sathorn, and it’s pure bliss. Step inside the wellness oasis, where you can expect to be pampered to perfection with a wide range of onsen baths (B450 for a day pass) and massage therapies (from B450 for a 60-minute Thai massage). For the ultimate relaxation, opt for the three-and-a-half-hour program that includes onsen, body scrub, aromatherapy massage, and herbal compress at B3,300. Before you leave, refuel with scrumptious Japanese food at the in-house restaurant. Sathorn Soi 10, 02-164-2643. Open daily 9am-midnight
What: iPhone 12 lineup Price: From B24,900 for iPhone 12 mini (64GB); B28,900 for iPhone 12 (64GB); B35,900 for iPhone 12 Pro (128GB); to B39,900 iPhone 12 Pro Max (128GB) Why? Apple has finally moved away from the round edges design for the iPhone 12 lineup to the familiar, flat-sided frame that matches the iPad Pro or iPhone 5—but in a more 2020 version, of course—which is a very welcome change. Other notable features include a new ceramic shield front cover for “4x better drop protection,” OLED displays across all models, 12-megapixel cameras, and Magsafe support for a better wireless charging experience. Oh, and 5G. As for the colors available, the Pacific Blue is a real stunner.
Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht
BUY IT UNIQLO AIRISM MASK A breathable and cooling mask perfect for our hot, humid weather (B390/pack of three).
BIN IT PLAYBOY SHIRT Try not to cringe
BARGAIN
GIB GAE FILM’S RETO 3D CAMERA PROMOTION Get this triple-lens snapper for just B3,390 (from B3,990), plus free battery and Ems delivery; fb.com/ gibgaefilm
travel | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2020
09
KHAO LAK
Phang Nga’s beach escape welcomes a plush new resort
Mystic Valley is back with 10 stages and tons of food this November
Vala
Quiet Khao Lak is about to get a big, new property when the 253-room Pullman Khao Lak opens this Dec 1. Located on Bang Muang beach, near Ko Kho Khao and Takuapa, at the northern end of the spread-out seaside town, the hotel was modeled after an old merchant’s house, with lots of red brick and a series of courtyards, a pond, and lagoons across the property. There are six beachfront pool villas, 50 family suites, two spacious presidential suites, 170 deluxe rooms, and eight rooms for people with special needs. Book now, and you can get a room from B3,100/night (pool villa 7,950/night). pullmankhaolakresort.com, 07-659-2233.
Pullman Khao Lak
CHIANG MAI
Thuub Bar adds a local This hotel gives the Cha- touch to Chiang Mai’s am seaside an injection rapidly growing cocktail scene of boutique luxury CHA-AM
KHAO YAI
Festival season might be quieter this year, but November has a big one on the books. Mystic Valley is back at Mountain Creek Khao Yai this Nov 27-29 with live music across 10 stages, loads of food, and good vibes. The full line-up has yet to be announced, but some top local brands will be managing separate stages, including indie label Fungjai and S20, organizers of the annual Songkran electronic music festival. There’s an interesting wrinkle, too: Mystic Valley has partnered with Bitazza, a digital asset broker that will let you pay with your crypto. Get your tickets at ticketmelon.com/mysticvalley
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Set between Cha-am and Hua Hin, Vala brings low-key luxury to the seaside getaway. The low-rise hotel features 97 guestrooms, ranging from seaview and pool access rooms and suites to beachfront suites for the whole family (from B5,700-9,200/night). The property boasts a warm, sea-friendly palette of sand and coral with splashes of burnt orange and turquoise, as well as a seafront-facing bar and restaurant. Above all, it aspires to offer culturally-minded holidays through visits to its onsite heritage house and nearby organic farm, where they grow over 30 kinds of fruits, herbs, and veggies. 849/21 Petchkasem Rd., Cha-am, valahuahin.com
Chiang Mai’s cocktail scene is heating up. Thuub Bar, the latest boozy bolthole to open in the city, transforms a small space inside Thee Vijit Lanna hotel into a warm-lit, Northern Thai-centric speakeasy. All the drinks are made to recall some element of life in the local villages. For example, the Klin-Dok-Fa (B280), a blend of coconut flower rum, rose apple, guava, and peach, combines the scent of native wildflowers and tropical fruit, while the MhokMa-La (B280) evokes the “sea of mist” with gin, garlic-basil syrup, and candle-smoked coconut milk. Classics like the Negroni start from B250, too. Thee Vijit Lanna Hotel, Chaiyaphum Soi 2, 092-802-7101
food & drink | news
Find the Photo Booth releases a colorful new menu inspired by the disco era
KARMIC MEETING
FOODIE FRIENDS
Karmakamet Conveyance and Omakase Ki Shin team up for a one-off dinner
You have one last chance to try this Asian-meets-Italian kitchen collaboration
Karmakamet Conveyance’s chef Jutamas “Som” Theantae will be joining chef Satoshi Tsuru at Omakase Ki Shin for a one-of-a-kind collaboration this Nov 26. Chef Satoshi is known for serving unconventional omakase in a fun, laidback atmosphere. Chef Som, meanwhile, is an enigmatic figure, whose meals take you on a journey to the unknown. Together, their 12-course meal (B6,000) will include highlights from each chef in a seafood-focused menu (spicy curry crab noodles, abalone, smoked cod). There will be a wide selection of rare sake, whiskey, and wine to drink. Only 15 seats are available. Nikko Hotel, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 063-070-0069
In October, 1919 Italian Bar & Restaurant kicked off an experimental pop-up series, inviting chef friends to explore new flavor combinations at their Soi Convent space. The first, featuring chef Andrew Martin of Jaew alongside 1919’s chef-partner Francesco Deiana, has introduced us to Asian-meets-European dishes like lamb with sai oua relish, herbs, and mangosteen (B690); gnocchi in a shio koji and seaweed tomato sauce with Parmesan, nori, and katsuobushi (B350); and a bomboloni with foie gras, banana, and yadong reduction (B240). Sound enticing? You have one more chance to try the a la carte menu on Nov 19. Call 02-236-5558 or email info@1919bkk.co to book.
FINDERS KEEPERS
Fans of Find the Photo Booth have good reason to head to the Soi 11 hideaway, as the bar has just released a vibrant new menu of signature drinks. Drawing inspiration from the 1970s, the menu offers eight classics from the era—think Sex on the Beach (B400), Singapore Sling (B430), Grasshopper (B400)—made with a lot more care, not to mention better ingredients, than your average disco drink. These all skew toward the dry end of the spectrum, with the sweetness toned down across the board. The bar team has used those classics as a foundation for eight other new concoctions, too, like the standout Manee (B430), a play on the margarita with Arquitecto blanco tequila, orange yogurt, coconut and cinnamon syrup, and fresh lemon, and the potent Mahanakhon Iced Tea (B430), with VSOP cognac, Michter’s bourbon, Sailor Jerry spiced rum, cola syrup, milk punch, orange bitters, and Thai tea. Some drinks, like the purplish Fighting Rooster (roselle-infused bourbon, corn milk syrup, fresh lemon, and egg white, topped with caramel corn; B430), take creative liberties with their source of inspiration. In this case, the Horse’s Neck (B400), a heady mix of VSOP cognac and ginger ale with a tail-like twist of lemon. Can’t decide what to order? Grab the film slides from the menu, drop the negatives on the light box, and take a closer look at the finished products. Expect “Saturday Night Fever” all week long, and don’t miss the excellent daily 5-8pm happy hours, when you can get a Negroni for B220 or Hendrick’s gin and tonic for B250. All prices are net, too. 14 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-117-2636
FRESH BOUNTY
Cap rainy season with this awesome new monsoon tasting menu at 80/20 80/20 is catching the tail end of rainy season with a new monsoon tasting menu. Highlighting the lush and fleeting bounty of the season, husband-and-wife team Napol “Joe” Jantraget and Saki Hoshino showcase local herbs and vegetables geared to boost your immune system across 10 courses (B3,000). Feast on lobster crudo with sea grapes topped with a sour granita, gaeng som made with local seashells and lots of earthy herbs, and the show-stopping “Pear and Mung Bean Miso,” a poached pear with miso caramel ice cream and a mung bean tuile. Opt for the wine pairing for an additional B1,800. 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Soi 26, 099-118-2200
food & drink | open door
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2020
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This travel-inspired cocktail bar makes its mark on Langsuan The buzz: Ms. Jigger, the Kimpton Maa-Lai hotel’s cosmopolitan cocktail bar and restaurant, is easily found tucked within the hotel’s gleaming lobby. Fans of the hotel’s always-packed Bar Yard—plus those with a soft spot for Italian cuisine and quirky yet classy cocktails— already have this global travelinspired hotspot on their shortlist. The vibe: Step through the vanilla-colored curtains, and you’ll be greeted with debonair, wood-clad decor. The space exudes an air of exclusivity and sophistication tailor-made for a Friday night out, a la “Sex and the City.” The marble tables, white leather chairs, and hardwood floors ooze class—with a little visual warning that this place is best fit for dignified grown-ups. Lining the bar’s back shelves, or the “Spirits Library,” is a collection of bespoke, single-batch, and rare spirits, while taking center stage is a floor-to-ceiling wine cooler wellstocked with organic, biodynamic, and Italian wines. The food: Pretend you’re in Italy with a bruschetta starter of homemade ricotta spianata Romana (B290), toasted sourdough bread slathered with housemade ricotta cheese, spicy salami, and freshly chopped parsley. Then move on to the toothsome meatballs with spicy tomato sauce and pecorino cheese (B320) or the arancini funghi selvatici e tartufo (B390), with three crispy nibbles of risotto rice with wild mushrooms and black truffle. For pizza, opt for the hand-tossed,
24-month parma ham (B470), with rich mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, and salty slices of parma ham. Heartier fare includes the lamb rack (B720), cooked medium with an herb crust, roasted potatoes, sauteed spinach, and mustard sauce. The drinks: The cocktail menu appears as a vintage map detailing the narrative behind each creation. The Terra Abruzzo (B340) is an aromatic blend of Alpine gin, pine liqueur, green chartreuse, rosemary, and raspberry oleo. For something light and refreshing, try the Nuitee a Paris (B370), a floral concoction of cognac, elderflower liqueur, and lemon. The Divine Proportions (B420), on the other hand, is a stronger, spruced-up Negroni mixed with Italian bitters. You can also opt for a range of classic cocktails, customarily offered either shaken (lighter, usually with citrus) or stirred (heavy on the spirits). The crowd: Well-heeled fadhoppers going for the ’gram and truly cultured ladies and gents. Why we’d come back: Whether you want to dress up and feel fancy with your hi-so date or just have some fun at happy hour, this is the place to start your classy nocturnal escapade. Veerabhatr Sriyananda L/F, Kimpton Maa-Lai, 78 Soi Tonson, 02-056-9999
food & drink | open door food & drink | new and noted
Taco del Diablo
TABLE TALK
Broccoli Revolution
NEW AND NOTED
899 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5001, 095-2519-799. Open Daily 10am-9pm (Sukhumvit 49), 10am-8pm (Central Embassy), Tue-Sun 10am-8pm (Charoenkrung 42/1)
Bangkok’s booming Mexican food scene adds a delivery-only venture
Pair Belgian beers with fiery Sichuan food at this riverside lounge
Go back to the ’80s at this cassette tape bar on Charoen Nakhon
Founded by the folks behind South Philly, delivery-only Taco del Diablo offers a menu of Mexican staples. Start small with char-grilled, streetstyle corn “lollipops” (B160) slathered in chipotle sauce, queso fresco, and tajín chili powder, or cheese-stuffed Jalapeno poppers (B160). The tacos come in sets of three and options like beer-battered white fish (B170) and suadero (B210), made with confit of beef brisket and served with a variety of fresh, spicy salsas. Make it a full meal with a side of rice and refried beans (B150). Order by Facebook Messenger @TacoDelDiablo, 12-8:30pm
At the Anantara Riverside’s Spice & Barley, pan-Asian fare curated by Singaporean celebrity chef Sam Leong meets exclusive Belgian beers. Bursting with chinoiserie, from the Chinese-inspired live entertainment to wait staff dressed in cheongsam, the venue follows the meandering global journeys of three fictional Sichuan sisters. For food, that means dishes ranging from Szechuan mapo tofu (B300) and Taiwanese claypot chicken (B580) to dim sum like tom yum kung lava buns (B280). Drinks-wise, Belgian brewery Cornelissen has produced a few beers just for the venue (pilsner, wheat, and wheat rosé; B200/330ml, B300/500ml). 3/F Anantara Riverside Hotel, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-476-0022 ext. 1416
1980s nostalgia reaches a fever pitch at Analog Playground, a bar devoted to cassette tapes, overlooking Asiatique from the rooftop loft at the Kowtha Rivertel on Charoen Nakhon Road. The bar is the brainchild of the folks behind Saphan Kwai’s Cassette Shop, which has also relocated to the boutique riverside hotel. Dig through old tapes and audio equipment at the shop inside, and then head out to the neon-drenched but no-frills rooftop patio for cheap drinks, fresh air, and live and analog music. 102-108, 110-112 Charoen Nakhon Soi 35, 095-891-8854
Situated in the heart of Sukhumvit, this plant-based vegan restaurant emphasizes social and environmental awareness. Along with the relaxing atmosphere, the menu is full of Eastmeets-West dishes, ranging from items like the signature Broccoli Quinoa Charcoal Burger (with a side of homemade healthy fries, B290) to their Chia seed Pad Thai (B180). Other options include organic cold-pressed juice and a smoothie bar, with highlights like the Juice Number 1 (B190) made with organic kale sourced from a small farm in the northern part of Thailand.
Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip 15 Sep ’20 – 31 Aug ’21
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2020
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Siwilai Sound Club
TABLE TALK
NEW AND NOTED
This ice cream delivery service will sweeten up your 2020
Talad Noi’s vinyl bar combines custom tech with live music and listening rooms
A Michelin-lauded ramen joint opens in Chit Lom
Renowned pastry chef Saki Hoshino (80/20, Krok) is the brains behind Bangkok’s latest ice cream player, Yora, which is churning out fresh flavors featuring Thai and Japanese ingredients, but without preservatives or added sugars. Think sweet-and-sour vanilla-mulberry (B90 cup/B350 pint); umami-packed fish sauce caramel (B100/B400); vegan-friendly coconut and palm sugar (B90/B350) topped with fried shallots and toasted coconut; and milk and cornflakes (B90/B350), made with real Japanese milk and topped with the timeless breakfast cereal. Flavors will change according to season. Order via Instagram @yora. bkk and Line @yora.bkk
Located at Central: The Original Store, Siwilai Sound Club recalls the understated style of Tokyo’s vinyl bars and New York’s jazz clubs, but within a converted Thai-Chinese shophouse that’s bathed in red light and filled out with luxury touches. Think amber leather seating, dark wood floors, and audio systems designed for the space by artist, sound designer, and Public Records co-founder Devon Turnbull. Those systems include six 12” OJAS speakers, a vinyl-only DJ booth featuring a set of Technics 1210s equipped with Goldring E3 cartridges, and over 1,000 records supporting a music program that will ebb and flow with the collective mood. 18 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-267-0415
Located at Chit Lom’s Mercury Ville lifestyle center, Tonchin, which boasts Bib Gourmand-winning locations across Asia and in New York, serves pocket-friendly, Tokyo-style ramen that should please even the fussiest connoisseurs. Warm up with the classic Tokyo tonkatsu ramen (B190), served with homemade noodles, tonkotsu broth, roasted pork belly, egg, bamboo shoot, and seaweed. The spicy tan tan ramen (B250) is a heady mix of bonito, asari clams, kombu, minced pork, chilies, spicy oil, and sansho pepper in a rich chicken broth. Looking for snacks? Try the pork belly-packed chashu don (B140) or pan-fried gyoza (B100). 540 Phloen Chit Rd., 098-242-9585
Thongyoy Cafe G/F Siam Paragon Rama I Road. Open daily 10am-9pm Hold the flowery language, this flower-filled cafe speaks for itself. The traditional Thai desserts served here are as pretty as the Moroccan-inspired decor throughout the premises. The chronically sweet-toothed will be spoiled for choice here, with classics like giant ta-ko (rice flour custard with coconut cream) and coconut & toddy palm cake stealing the show–both in flavor and eye-candy.
Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get a complimentary Giant Coconut Pudding with Water Chestnuts valued at THB 60 when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip or Get a complimentary Thongyoy Tea Set (refill) valued THB 170 when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip 01 Jul ’20 – 30 Jun ’21
neighborhood | inthamara-sutthisan
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2020
Laze
Inthamara
Konchong Konprung
Ped Yang Hi So
Inthamara
Intha Zone
Coffee & Breakfast
For a caffeine fix and sick Instagram snaps, grab a yuzu espresso (B120) or an Ethiopia Uraga pour over (B190) with a bacon cheese croissant (B120) Once known as a at uber hip Laze, or chill out with an bustling entertainment iced mocha (B75) while checking out district as far back as awesome shots by emerging photogthe 1960s, Inthamararaphers at Window Gallery and Cafe. Sutthisan is now For a palate-refresher, try Tsuru Cafe’s brimming with old-school fruity Oolong tea topped with orange, lemon, apple, and lime with rainbow shophouses and street waffles (B79), or a cold-pressed juice eats, alongside a mix like the Red Beet at Slow Jam (B79; of new establishments. red and green apple, carrot, and Here’s what it’s like to live beetroot). Don’t miss 4x6 Coffee’s banana nutella roti (B45) or honey in the neighborhood. toast (B125), best paired with a frothy By Dhipkawee caramel macchiato (B60 hot/B70).
Sriyananda Selley
Lunch & Dinner Eat like a local at Ped Yang Hiso, where you’ll get generous servings
BK ASKS
What do you love most about Inthamara?
of roasted duck over rice (B50), or hit up Chef Sun Kuay Tiew Reua Ayutthaya for tasty slurps of authentic boat noodles (from B15). Check out the egg noodles with juicy shrimp wontons and barbecued crispy pork (B40) at Ung Sew Ha and savory southern curries (from B40) from aptly named Palek Southern Rice Curry. For tasty Thai-Chinese fare, photogenic Kongchong Konprung doles out egg fried rice with Chinese sausages (B130) and crispy chicken in red Shaoxing sauce (B180). If you’re big on seafood or Japanese, stop by Baan Phanchad for the signature catfish tom yum (B150/B250) or Oba San 168 for big bowls of salmon donburi (B148).
Drinks Sure, Inthamara isn’t known for its cool nightlife, but look beyond the
GUY SANOHLAM, INTHAMARA RESIDENT “It’s exciting to see cafes like Laze popping up to cater new condo residents and locals. I’ll be looking forward to seeing more businesses like these in the community.”
Window Gallery and Cafe
seedy karaoke bars and questionable nightclubs and you’ll find a few hidden gems. Grab a cold beer (B80 for a large Chang) and vibe to live music at low-key Sip Bar or turn it up a notch at Nude, Coffee & Tonic Bar over reasonably priced cocktails. Head toward neighboring Saphan Kwai junction, and you can enjoy a night of bar hopping, too—start with grungy ’90s-esque Helter Skelter for a vinyl-only soundtrack, followed by a visit to rooftop bars Dumbo Jazz & Vinyl Bar and Cat on the Roof, before capping off the night at hip speakeasy The Grey Area.
Transport BTS Saphan Kwai or MRT Sutthisan.
Visit
Nude, Coffee and Tonic Bar
close to Saphan Kwai and Ari—two of Bangkok’s “it” ’hoods, home to a slew of delicious street eats, cafes, bars, and restaurants—that you can’t really complain. You’re also not far from Suan Rod Fai, the Or Tor Kor market, and the Chatuchak weekend market, either.
Accommodation Lumpini Selected Sutthisan’s 389 units run from B11,000/month for a studio apartment, while the leafy 128-unit Haven Phaholyothin offers one bedroom apartments from B13,000/month. Metro Luxe Phaholyothin-Sutthisan comprises two buildings with 300 units from B15,000/month. Nearby, Baxtor Phaholyothin 14 will set you back at B23,000/month for a one bedroom.
This neighborhood may not be a hotbed for all things hip, but it’s so
KITTIKORN KOOMSIRIPITHUCK, OWNER OF LAZE “I love the balance between old and new here. You get to live the modern lifestyle with all the specialty coffee shops and fusion restaurants, but also get to appreciate the fading charms of Saphan KwaiInthamara.”
KRITSPON PHLAPHON, OWNER OF KONCHONG KONPRUNG “You’ll find everything from local markets and old-school barbers to new generationowned coffee shops and restaurants. The combination of young and old is what makes the community so charming.”