BK Magazine 815

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Sup, brah? Meet the kayak enthusiast trying to revive Thailand’s canal culture Family Biz Celebrity chef Pam overhauls the family pharmacy for her new restaurant Art-venture Bangkok art insiders explain how they adapted to survive the global crisis First We Feast Four great reasons to dive back into Bangkok’s restaurant scene

NO. 815 OCTOBER 29, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

Boo!

A SEAT AT THE TABLE Thai entrepreneurs are fighting for farmers— and trying to fix our flawed food system

food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2021

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ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

A Fine Night Out

Whether it is steak or pasta, some dishes are just better in a restaurant New York Steakhouse

A Bangkok beef lover’s favorite thanks to expensive cuts of US prime beef and Australian black angus.

There’s also a nice selection of fresh seafood. The service is impeccable, by the way.

2/F, JW Marriott, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700.

Open daily 4-9pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 20% discount on food a la carte menu and non-alcoholic beverages for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select

El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse

One of Bangkok’s longest-standing steakhouse chains, and still a place that brings in droves of customers looking for a cowboy-worthy meal.

Steaks and giant slabs of meat are the restaurant’s calling card, mainly imported from Australia and the US—with choices ranging from a simple rib eye to a wagyu filet mignon.

8/4-7 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-255-2864. Open 11ammidnight. There are two other locations in Langsuan and Thong Lor.

(limit 6 persons /card /table /sales slip)

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members

Or

Get a complimentary Hot Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream valued THB 460 when ordering a la carte menu

Get 15% discount on a la carte menu and nonalcoholic beverages for other Citi Credit Cards (excluding special menu, public holidays and festive season)

Advance reservation is required Tel. 02-656-7700 1 Jan - 31 Dec ’21

Mediterra

This Southern Italian specialist puts an extremely careful eye into sourcing some of the finest Mediterranean ingredients, like Mazara del Vallo red prawns, wild octopus, swordfish, clams, mussels and lots more. Sicilian-style dishes, like pasta alle sarde, with sardines, saffron and pinenuts, and tons of Mediterranean classics set the tone for its far-reaching and diverse menu. This is heartfelt cooking at its best.

14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-115-7776. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5-9pm. (last order at 8:30pm due to curfew)

(limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip) 15 Jun ’21 - 30 Jun ’22

New York Steakhouse

Gianni

El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse

Italian fine dining in Bangkok would not be where it is today without Gianni Favro. The longtime chef has delighted local rainmakers and power movers for the past 25 years with Mediterranean dishes.

G/F, Athenee Tower, Witthayu Rd, 02-168-8080.

Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm, 7:30-9pm

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only 1 Jan ’21 - 31 May ’22

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only 1 Jul ’21 - 30 Jun ’22

Mediterra

Brought to you by Citi

Gianni

page 3 Who's in charge?

05

BK EDITORIAL Managing Editor Craig Sauers Senior Writers Alisha Pawa, Porpor Leelasestaporn Junior Writer Thanut Manthanasarnchai Contributors Megan Leon

cover story

GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu Head of Business Development Shernan Plameras Senior Content Strategists Summer Lee, Andre Frois

The Thailand Rebrand

These Thai entrepreneurs want to give farmers a seat at the table

With Mark Zuckerberg announcing plans to rename Facebook in an attempt to change its image, we got to thinking about other meaningless exercises in rebranding. For instance, Thailand attempting to put lipstick on a proverbial pig and declare itself a family-friendly destination. You know, with its family-friendly roads, family-friendly air quality, and family-friendly arbitrary park closures.

Associate Thai Editor Ittipol Jungwatanawong Senior Thai Writer Witthawat Pukkhabut Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Account Manager Hafiz Rasid Senior Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana

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Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Umporn Jiaranai

feature

How Bangkok gallery owners are keeping the art scene alive

Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Managers Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Anuwattanawong, Joseph Toh, Stanley Yeo, Danial Heng Business Development Executive Palita Nueangnit SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

11 Potong promises Thai-Chinese cuisine like you’ve never had it before

BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication.

Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam Operations Manager Clarissa Cortes

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coconuts.co Advertise with us advertising@coconuts.co

food & drink

Brunch, Diwali feasts, pop-ups, and more

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Coconuts BK Limited

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CPland CP already runs 7-Eleven, Tesco Lotus (er, Lotus’s?), and the True Corporation in Thailand. It’s also the world’s largest producer of animal feed and shrimp. The packaged food CP sells at 7-Eleven is basically animal feed, too, so they’re really crushing it. As further proof of the impending apocalypse, the most oligopolistic of conglomerates now has its sights set on digital payments and delivery apps.

Cool.

Thailand 3.14159 The fantastical promise of Thailand 4.0 will never materialize, but we’re not so jaded to think Thailand 0.4 is an apt metaphor. We’re somewhere in between: we have something like 17 different apps offering digital vaccine passports, but none of them work very well; we can pay for moo ping via QR code, but we have to file a mountain of paperwork to open a bank account.

food & drink

BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited.

The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request.

Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.

Here are some choice options we came up with that really get to the heart of Thailand’s metaverse.

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15

shopping

the last word

Scary stylish

Rattasapa “Kiad” Mahachon

NothingToSeeHereLand In which cigarettes are blurred out in TV dramas but rape scenes continue to be depicted. In which cops bash in protestors’ brains and express concern about kids watching Squid Game. In which a top politician gets away with owning beaucoup luxury watches he shouldn’t be able to afford and we’re all like, “oh, wow, that’s a lot of watches,” and then we move on with our lives. You get the picture.

HideYourKidsHideYourWifeLand There are poles in the sidewalks to repel the motorbikes, but they find their way up there anyway. The only thing surging higher and faster than our AQI is Bitcoin. Only like 80 people are dying on the roads each day, and that marks significant improvement. But don’t let that dissuade you from dropping tens of thousands of dollars to jumpstart our economy!

upfront

BY THE NUMBERS… THAILAND’S ALCOHOL SALES BAN 60

9

The profit margin percentage for alcohol sales in the restaurant sector

166 billion Amount in Thai baht the nightlife industry contributed to the Thai economy each year, as of 2020

<20 Percentage of revenue nightclubs recovered from Jan-March this year compared to their pre-Covid levels— in other words, they made hardly any money at all

Number of months that bars and restaurants in Bangkok have been unable to sell alcohol in 2021 at press time*

0

Total number of alcohol-borne Covid-19 cases recorded in the world

*January, most of February, half of April, May-Oct and counting Sources: The Business Times, The Bangkok Post, Thai Restaurant Association, Nikkei Asia Review, Thailand Tourism Council

YOU SAID WHAT?

HOT OR NOT

“BT$” Facebook user Collen Steinbring on the new BTS reward point system

“Great article and photos - things disappear faster in Bangkok than other places” Twitter user @RandomThainess on photographer Graham Meyer’s “Goodbye Thonburi” photo essay

“Good for them the gov ought to be ashamed of the covid response let’s all get [wasted] on Tom” Instagram user @gginbkk on Teens of Thailand transforming from a cocktail bar to kratom bar while alcohol sales remain outlawed

DECEMBER

FLOODTOGRAPHY

P’Tu has promised a full reopening in December. As in, no quarantine, the return of booze at bars and restaurants, and free rein to travel nationwide. If you trust this government to stick to its word, we have some beachfront property in Kalasin we’d like to show you.

Still, for the first time in ages there’s light at the end of the long, dark tunnel we’ve made for ourselves.

The latest flood season has been a goldmine for Thai politicians.

Prayuth got some glamor shots taken in flood-ravaged Chaiyaphum (still underwater at press time, by the way). Then the whole rat pack visited Ubon Ratchathani to “assess its flood-readiness”: the Minister of the Interior, the Minister of Energy, even the Minister of the Digital Economy and Society for some reason. Nice work, fellas.

? ?

?

? ?

NOVEMBER Bangkok, Hua Hin, and Chiang Mai were supposed to reopen in October, but for some reason Prayuth and co. kicked the can down the road to November. A bunch of firms, including AirAsia, bashed the government for inconsistent policies and last-minute announcements, saying (rightly) that they cost people money. Even if the November reopening goes as planned in Bangkok, it still likely means no booze. Pass.

EQUALITY Taking a cue from the CCSA with the whole kicking the can down the road thing, the Thai courts have yet again delayed a ruling on a landmark marriage equality case until mid-December. For seemingly no reason at all, too. Which, hey, that’s cool. We’ve only been fighting for LGBTQ+ marriage equality rights under the civil code here since 2012. Why rush now?

cover | fixing our food system

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2021

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BRINGING FARMERS TO THE TABLE Farmers play a key role in our lives, but they are among Thailand’s most marginalized and underpaid. That could be changing.

These startups and non-profits are using social media, storytelling, and the simple concept of sharing to fix our broken food system and give Thai farmers the agency they have lacked for so long. By Megan Leon

Food brings us together, but not everyone gets a seat at the table in our food system.

Farmers play a key role in the lives of all working-class people: you can survive without many material goods, but you can’t live without food. Nevertheless, in Thailand farmers are among the country’s most marginalized and underpaid—according to the United Nations, the agriculture sector in Thailand “generates the lowest value added per worker.” For consumers, they are often out-of-sight, out-of-mind for consumers. So is their plight.

“Without proper education, [farmers] end up selling to large corporations at a steal of a price, leaving no room for negotiations, which then gives full rein to these conglomerates to sell [their products] at high prices to the consumer,” says Dharath Hoonchamlong, a co-founder of nomadic bar Wasteland and food scholar. “The farmers end up getting the scraps.”

When they rely on conglomerates, farmers limit their potential earnings and bargaining power. At the same time, economic pressures—investing in equipment to boost production or meet the high bar of going organic—force them to make hard decisions, like relying on pesticides or selling products at low prices to ensure they receive any profits at all.

But some entrepreneurs are trying to change the forecast for Thai farmers. In the process, they hope to build a more sustainable food system that links you to the food you eat and the people who grow it.

Pattaraporn “Nat” Salirathavibhaga and Natnicha “Tess” Burapachaisri

NO MIDDLEMAN, NO PROBLEM What does social media have to do with your food? For Pattaraporn “Nat” Salirathavibhaga and Natnicha “Tess” Burapachaisri, quite a bit.

With their newly launched social platform, Homeland Grocer, the two are employing the power of storytelling on social media to build a healthier, more equitable, more resilient food system, “where we [have] pride and respect for the people who make and grow our food,” says Tess. Oh, and deliver great, fresh food to you, too.

Homeland Grocer sources from organic, smallscale, and family farmers and producers from places like Chiang Rai, Amnat Charoen, and Nakhon Pathom. They deliver these groceries directly to consumers in eco-friendly packaging with personalized notes about their mission.

But they reiterate: they are not middlemen— they are partners who let farmers set their own prices.

Online, they work to demystify supply chain issues and put a face behind the food consumers buy. Homeland Grocer’s Instagram account is peppered with educational posts, highlighting not only locally grown produce, but also various ways on how to build a better food system.

Offline, fair trade is a key component of their work. They say it boosts farmers’ morale, leading them to work ethically and be more transparent. They also work in conjunction with the Thailand Organic Consumer Association (TOCA), who have built a transparent relationship with organic farmers, and continue to support capacity and skill development for Thai farmers and producers.

“When you buy from us, you directly contribute to… sustainable rural development that improves the livelihood of our partners, their families, and their communities,” says Tess.

cover | fixing our food system

Moh Suthasiny and Pearl Pattamaphon

EAT LOCAL, EAT SEASONAL It’s not just good for you and farmers—it’s also a strategic step toward reducing carbon emissions.

REMEMBER THAT UGLY IS BEAUTIFUL Produce that has minor blemishes or is oddly shaped is still fine to eat, and eating ugly can prevent a lot of waste.

KNOW WHERE YOUR FOOD COMES FROM Last year, Moh Suthasiny and Pearl Pattamaphon noticed the many ways the pandemic was disrupting Thailand’s food system, in particular the abundant food waste. They decided to act.

Moh and Pearl set out with simple but clear goals: getting good food into consumer hands while making things transparent and working only with certified organic suppliers.

Their startup, Happy Grocers, is an online grocery store and mobile produce truck that delivers to homes and condos throughout the city.

In other words, it brings the good stuff to you.

A big part of their business revolves around “ugly” produce—the kind that supermarkets don’t like to stock, as consumers gravitate toward flaw-free fruits and veggies. They put it plain and simple on their website: “Over 60% of our products are those that don’t make it to conventional supermarket shelves because they don’t reach the beauty standard.”

“Farmers were complaining that they couldn’t sell their products and our consumer friends were also finding it difficult to find certified organic produce,” Moh, who like Pearl has a background in agriculture, tells us.

“We already had connections from our past work, so we decided to make a Facebook page, offering produce from our farmer friends.

People responded well and we haven’t stopped since.”

KNOW THE REAL COST OF FOOD Organic foods get a bad rep for being expensive. While that might be true, unsustainable products are costlier in the long term—for your health and the planet, as they rely on industrialized farms, produce more emissions, and run through unchecked distribution centers.

By selling these vegetables, they say that farmers are able to harvest more frequently, which then produces more revenue and reduces food waste by more than 40 percent.

In addition, the company schedules farm trips, cooking classes, and virtual workshops to boost consumer understanding of how their food is produced, and who is behind it.

READ UP Responsible consumption starts with knowledge. There’s no better way to learn than with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2021

PUTTING LOCAL BEEF ON THE MENU While Happy Grocers is making ugly fruit more attractive, another company is trying to fix our relationship with meat.

Groco aims to help Thai cattle farmers raise livestock and sell meat in a sustainable manner.

The first step in that process sounds a bit like psychiatry. Groco helps “farmers connect with the character of their produce or cattle and encourages them to see more value in it,” says Pitipong Matitanaviroom, who co-founded Groco with business partner Win Luanchaison.

A shift in attitude toward Thai meat is already underway, though. Over the past decade, restaurants have frequently turned to local suppliers for beef as the quality has increased, especially beef from farms in the Northeast.

Now, you’ll find Thai beef proudly on the menu at restaurants like 100 Mahaseth, Taan, Appia, Samuay & Sons, and more.

“Covid has changed the mindset of people when it comes to food, and not only chefs.

Consumers are more and more curious about local beef,” explains Win. “That is why we work with [a variety of] farmers, such as Farm Arunsupa, because each source offers distinct characteristics and tastes, according to factors such as soil and altitude.”

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Farm ArunSupa

But cattle farmers still face many problems with logistics and marketing.

Often their knowledge of the food system doesn’t go beyond the butchering process, and so they hand over their products to large corporations for questionable processing and distribution. Sometimes, they end up tossing out parts that could be consumed.

Groco chooses to work with cattle ranchers who run mid-sized farms—the ones who are willing to adapt to their way of working.

The maximum they work with are five. They say that a small number guarantees farmers earn their fair share, gives consumers time to develop product loyalty, and promotes freshness. “Whatever you find in supermarkets has probably gone through countless distribution centers,” says Pitipong.

Above all they work together as a team: they teach their farmers the value of nose-to-tail butchery, promote their products, and share profits.

Dharath Hoonchamlong

A SEAT AT THE TABLE “When you say words like ‘organic’ or ‘sustainable,’ there is a stigma that leaves people thinking ‘expensive’ or ‘unapproachable,’” Dharath says.

And when large corporations and governments get involved, they further weaken the sustainability of the supply chain, affecting the well-being of farmers, the ecosystem, and consumers.

Small players like Homeland Grocer, Happy Grocers, and Groco could be a catalyst for change in our food system. They open up lines of communication between farmers and consumers. They encourage better agricultural practices. And they give farmers a seat at the table.

“We want to show the farmers and the world that you can do good and make an impact by partnering together,” says Nat. “We are not a charity—it’s a partnership. We are partners.”

feature | keeping art alive

BATTLING BACK After two years of canceled events and closed doors, the Thai art industry is still fighting to survive the pandemic crisis. We spoke to a few gallery owners to get their views on the success of going virtual and why Thailand needs to support the arts. By Alisha Pawa

No one was prepared to deal with the crisis brought on by Covid-19.

That includes the art industry. Globally, artists and galleries often rely on festivals, exhibitions, concerts, and other events to stay afloat. When Bangkok’s art scene went dark during its several pandemic lockdowns, the city’s art scene found itself facing an uncertain new reality.

Many struggled to make it, but some managed to successfully adapt on the fly by turning to online platforms and rethinking their strategies. While some of the gallery owners we spoke to felt that going virtual was little more than a stopgap, some, like Clifford Joseph Price, the artist better known as Goldie, who now runs Aurum Gallery at Warehouse 30, have found a silver lining in the online world.

“Being a gallery partner on Artsy.net has… allowed us to get our work out there on an international level. We’ve been quite successful with it,” says Goldie.

And there has been another net positive for artists, gallery owners, and patrons alike: many people have changed their perspectives of art because of the crisis.

According to Goldie, the public has discovered a newfound appreciation for art’s role in boosting mental health, as people started turning to art for comfort and saw it as a therapeutic tool during the worst of times.

“I think the pandemic has reignited people’s love of creative arts, probably mostly due to having had that taken away for a period of time,” he says.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2021

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DIGITAL ALONE WON’T DO IT Even so, going virtual has been hard on many galleries. In Bangkok, some called it quits or temporarily closed their doors. Even if art exhibitions have made a comeback this month, they’re limited, and curators are still trying to drive interest in mostly unpopular digital events.

Kit Chirachaisakul, the owner of Kalwit Studio and Gallery, says he had no choice but to offer virtual exhibitions, but those didn’t necessarily generate much for the gallery.

“The number of visitors has reduced and revenue is going down,” he says. “Artists and organizers feel [as if they are] wasting time on planning [these] events.”

Kit also feels that Thai culture isn’t equipped to support the arts through a crisis like this. Art is often seen as a luxury, he notes. “Thai people support only famous artists,” he says. ‘The new generation of artists do not get the recognition they deserve.”

To propel the Thai art industry forward, Kit believes that we need more support not just in terms of artistic creativity, but also from public or private funding. Especially as tourism, a driver of revenue for basically all industries in Thailand, is unlikely to return to peak levels for years.

That means the future of tourism-dependent art centers like the Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC) and Jim Thompson House is uncertain.

Jim Thompson House’s art director Gridthiya Gaweewong says they are trying to survive by engaging with the community through independent projects and online collaborations with foreign galleries, like Hong Gah Art Museum in Taipei.

Gridthiya emphasizes that it will take Thailand a long time to reach a point where we would have a funding body that supports the arts.

“The state needs to create a body to subsidize art if [Thailand wants] to have soft power,” says Gridthiya. “What we really need is a change in taxation and our legal issues. We need a special entity who takes care of it. It’s ridiculous that people talk about soft power without talking about democracy and freedom of expression.”

Gridthiya suggests that we should adopt non-profit laws like in the United States, where anyone who donates to a non-profit art organization gets their taxes reduced in return.

“This is how we can encourage people to fund art galleries and spaces,” she says.

Goldie agrees, although he highlights the role of private industry in helping Thailand’s art scene unlock its true potential.

“Thailand has 20 or 30 leading companies that have various ways they can work with and support artists—through private commissions, funding, projects,” he says. “Getting suitable companies to work with artists is key. The old models don’t work anymore.”

food & drink | news

Celebrate India’s festival of lights at Here

LIGHT IT UP

Celebrate Diwali, India’s festival of lights, with a two-day dinner feast at Here this Oct 30-31. The celebration dinner set (B1,400) offers unlimited vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. Across the menu, expect dishes like betel leaf chaat, corn bhajia with smoked tomato chutney and corn butter, and tandoori larb-spiked mushrooms, in addition to desserts like rum-soaked gulab jamun and millet kheer with cardamom kulfi.

The mocktail menu offers a zingy virgin makhwaen (prickly ash) mojito and the KCL, made with kokum (a mangosteen-like fruit), curry leaf, lime, and soda.

If the alcohol ban is lifted, there will be an unlimited cocktail menu, too (B800). Reservations required.

Book via Line @here_bkk or 097-140-5647.

LET THERE BE BRUNCH

BUONGIORNO AGAIN

DOUBLE DOWN

Lord Jim’s is back with its bougie brunch

Yen Akat’s modern Italian restaurant reopens

Samrub for Thai’s hotel takeover gets extended

After a long hiatus, the Mandarin Oriental’s beloved brunch is back at Lord Jim’s. Expect a spread of premium seafood like fresh oysters, Canadian lobster, and Hokkaido king crab, as well as a gourmet selection of house favorites like panseared foie gras with mango sauce, 36-month-aged Iberico ham, and salt-baked seabass with avruga caviar and champagne foam among the more than 100 choices available.

Apart from the buffet, you can also order unlimited main courses from the a la carte menu. New highlights include cajun-style seafood boiled with corn and potatoes, gratinated seafood thermidor, and mushroom risotto with black truffle.

Open Wed-Fri, noon-2:30pm (B2,350); Sat-Sun and public holidays 11:30am-3pm (B3,200).

Art-splattered modern Italian restaurant Clara has recently reopened with a special menu called “Once Upon a Time in Italy: Part Two.” The set menu is dedicated to Italy’s most famed regions and comes in a set of five (B2,680) or seven courses (B3,080). The journey starts in Puglia with bites like sea urchin and buckwheat before moving on to Sicily, where you can savor octopus with lemon and baby black pig ham with fig. The menu ventures to Umbria and then Tuscany for a main of Fiorentina beef with baby potato spinach. The meals ultimately wrap up with a Piedmont-inspired dessert, giving you the full spectrum of Italian cuisine. Open Tue-Sat 5-9pm.

The Anantara Siam is extending their super-popular culinary takeover with Samrub for Thai. The pop-up will now run through Jan 2022, showcasing chef Prin Polsuk’s reinterpreted ancient Thai recipes. Choose from five (B1,100), seven (B2,300), or 10 courses (B2,800). The menu could include everything from a starter of prawns with sala fruit served on crunchy rice to a salad of grilled smoked duck breast with longkong fruit and Thai basil and a tiger prawn curry with fresh young mangosteen. Available Tue-Sat. Reservations are required and can be made by contacting Spice Market at 02126- 8866 or email dining.asia@anantara.com.

food & drink | open door

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2021

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A 120-year-old pharmacy is reborn as a fine dining hotspot The buzz: Nestled amid bustling Sampeng, a 120-year-old five-story shophouse has been transformed from a former Thai-Chinese pharmacy into a fine dining destination. Named after her great grandfather’s herbal shop, Potong sees celebrity chef Pitchaya “Pam” Utarntham flying the banner for Thai-Chinese cuisine.

The decor: To pay homage to the building’s past, Pam has kept most of its historic structures intact. On the ground-floor bar—a judicious mix of rustic and contemporary design—you can easily spot glass jars filled with fermenting things lining the overhead shelves. When you look up you spot a wooden elevator that Pam’s family once used to transport herbs from the second floor—most employees at the time were not allowed to see the secret family recipes. At the top of the staircase, you’ll find a livelier experience in a dining room for large groups, while the third floor offers a more private gathering space. The fourth floor is soon to feature a bar and star-gazing rooftop, perched above busy Soi Wanit with a balcony overlooking the activity below.

The food: Pam’s progressive dishes transform traditional Thai-Chinese cuisine across a 20-course dinner menu (B4,500+). Pam says she caters to all five senses using five elements to enhance the food experience, and that manifests in clever ways. Dinner starts with an orange tree served in a tree pot. What appears to be a plump orange is in fact white chocolate encapsulating citrus kombucha.

Chinese classics like dumplings are revamped as a modern-looking lamb tart, accompanied by house-made white tea broth infused with white mugwort. While frogs aren’t foreign

to Chinese cuisine, Pam realizes that many people may not be bold enough to eat them. So she carefully disguises the meat in bamboo lattice and serves it with a Chinese root and frog bone broth. The highlights, however, are the13-day hay-aged duck breast, Angus beef ribs, and rice bowls, which arrive on a lazy Susan—a familiar sight for anyone who grew up in a Thai-Chinese household.

Don’t underestimate desserts here.

From soy sauce ice cream topped with a translucent blown-sugar sphere filled with five spice, cinnamon, and fiery mala chocolate to a dessert trolley meant to represent Yaowarat’s crowd-gathering treats—think roasted chestnut mousse scones and sweet dumplings filled with custard lava— the sweet courses see Pam flexing her creative muscles.

The drinks: The antique-looking wine menu is speckled with Pam’s neatly hand-written manuscripts journaling her thought process in curating the selection. Potong’s cellar highlights uncommon and distinctive wineries from 15 countries. For example, Australia’s Borachio Pash Rash Pet Nat sparkling pinot noir (B2,500/bottle), or Germany’s Peter Jakob Kuhn 2016 biodynamic riesling brut (B2,800/bottle). Potong also provides a variety of kombucha drinks (from B180/glass).

Why we’d come back: The titles that Pam has received over the years aren’t just for show, and the fact that we haven’t yet had a taste of her signature cocktails inside the opium bar is reason enough. But the way Potong reconnects with an overlooked cuisine has us planning a return trip.

Porpor Leelasestaporn 422 Wanit Soi 1, 082-979 -3950.

Open daily 10am-9pm.

food & drink | new & noted

BaanBan Cafe

TABLE TALK

KOF 2, North Sathorn Rd, 099-150-6301. Open daily 7am-5pm This sleek Sathorn cafe sits on its own detached plot of land outside of an office building, with glass walls surrounding nearly all sides to soak up that wholesome sunlight during the day. Come here to get your fluffy Japanese pancake fix, stacked up high, with butter and syrup, or a frozen nama milk soft serve to satisfy your sweet tooth. There are also plenty of bottled takeaway-ready drinks made in house if you want things sent directly to you. This is a good place to roll to if you are one of the types that’s always looking for a good splash of chic cafe vibes to your IG feed

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get a complimentary Everyday Bottle Americano or Hojicha Latte valued THB 120 when spending THB 400 or more /sales slip (limit 1 bottle /card /table /sales slip)

1 Oct ’21 – 31 Mar ’22

TBT-KOF_.indd 1

Funky

NEW AND NOTED

Online brand BaanBan brings its on-trend Chinese pastries to Siam Square

It’s all about the Maillard reaction at Bangkok’s newest smash burger specialist

Bangkok gets a taste of South America with this vibrant ghost kitchen

After offering its khanom pia (Chinese pastries) at pop-ups over the past year, BaanBan has finally found a home at Siam Square One. BaanBan Cafe still focuses on the pastries that made the brand famous, and standard versions are anything but, stuffed with everything from Belgian chocolate to truffle, taro, and salted egg yolk (B39/piece).

Don’t miss the special “lava” options, available in flavors like monthong durian and white chocolate ganja (B69/ piece), or the dessert drinks featuring their pastries. Think Earl Grey-Assam tea topped with coconut mousse and khanom pia ice cream (B120) or foi thong-topped iced lattes mixed with crème brûlée syrup (B135).

Smizzle Burger joins the city’s exclusive cadre of smash burger specialists, serving crispy-edged patties served between buttery buns. The shop uses locally sourced beef—300day grain-fed, hormone-free, neverfrozen Charolais, to be precise. You can order them lite (one patty; B60 less), regular (two patties), or loaded (three patties; add B60). If you don’t want to build your own, there are six house specials to choose from. While there are loads of options for sides, the truffle fries (B125/regular; B225/loaded) take the cake. Wash it all down with one of the ice cream shakes (B180-200), in flavors ranging from salted caramel to Oreo’s.

Funky began as an experimental platform for two fine dining chefs on Instagram, who sold fermented goods like kombucha and kefir. It has since expanded to awesome homemade arepas—a.k.a. the disc-shaped South American snacks stuffed with a range of veggies and proteins. Here, they do them up special, but the classic version is the Reina Pepiada, made with a shredded chicken salad featuring green peas, avocado slices, coriander, and red onion, but there are other creative options, including vegan versions, too (all arepas B190.)

Though it’s delivery-only for now, you can expect pop-ups and restaurant takeovers soon.

Room No. 1010, G/F, Siam Square One, 338 Rama 1 Rd., 093-614-4497.

Bambini Villa, 18 Attha Kawi Soi 1, 06-2419-9190.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2021

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Son of Saigon

TABLE TALK

RED DIAMOND Silom gets an izakaya with a colorful twist courtesy of a well-traveled chef

This vibrant cafe brings the food of Saigon’s streets to Bangkok

Barbecue all by your bad self when this Japanese joint comes to Bangkok

Behind Tokyo Neo, a funky izakaya serving easy bites, rolls, and bowls with an 80s retro vibe, is Nagoyahailing chef Goro, who found his way to Bangkok after stints in Europe and Latin America. That means you can expect a mash-up of Western touches in his Japanese staples. Think fun rolls like the Surf and Turf Tokyo (B390), with beef tenderloin and kisu (Japanese whiting fish) tempura; teriyaki-coated karaage (fried chicken, B180); and snacks like a flavorful tomato salad shaken up with a mala-tomato broth, shiso leaf, and eggplant (B180).

Decked out in colorful murals created

by Vietnamese illustrator Phu Anh Tran, metal coffee cups, and wicker fixtures, Son of Saigon is chef/owner Shaun Pham’s ode to his Vietnamese heritage. Pham’s menu pays tribute to his mom’s recipes through signatures like the timeliness banh mi (B260/ grilled pork; B250/grilled chicken), made fresh to order with homemade pate, locally sourced meats, and house mayo on crusty baguettes, and the vibrant bun thit nuong (noodle bowls with grilled meat, B260/pork; B250/ chicken). For the true Saigon experience, don’t miss the traditional drip coffee (B120/hot; B130/iced), made with smoky Vietnamese robusta beans.

Good news for those unable to find anyone to share barbecue with: popular Japanese grill spot Yakiniku Like will open its first Thai branch at Central Ladprao this month. Known for catering to single hungry souls who need large amounts of meat, Yakiniku Like was the first barbecue spot in Japan to offer individual and smokeless grills for both single and small groups. While the details about the menu are scant, we do know you will be able to get a variety of cuts, from B220 for 100 grams of inexpensive sliced meat to B660 for a 180-gram cut of wagyu steak.

14 Convent Rd., 095-592-0510.

Sky Residence, 39 Thonglor Soi 25 (Soi Phrom Phak), 062-546-1494.

Central Ladprao, 1693 Phahonyothin Rd., fb.com/yakinikulike.th

733 Sangkhom Songkhro Rd., 085-044-2662. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm Red Diamond Specialty Coffee was first established in Thailand in 2017 with the goal of taking Bangkok’s coffee experience to the next level and helping to develop the Thai coffee industry to compete on the world stage. They select some of the best coffee beans from all over the world and train their baristas to a world-class standard—with knowledgable customer service and the skills to meet their needs. Currently, Red Diamond Specialty Coffee has 14 branches throughout Bangkok.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 5% discount when spending THB 600 or more /sales slip

1 Oct ’21 – 31 Mar ’22

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hit list | lifestyle

Pop artist Gongkan puts his stamp on the Lomo’Instant

TECH

Thanks to this special collaboration with instant camera brand Lomography, Gongkan fans have new ways to express their love for the Thai pop artist’s quirky work. Gongkan has teamed up with Lomography to put his “Teleport” series on their Lomo’Instant camera, so you can capture your best moments in style. The black-and-white Instant camera comes in a package with a range of colorful filters, as well as three interchangeable lenses, including fisheye, portrait, and closeup.

The Lomo’Instant Gongkan Edition (B4,580) is available to purchase via Line @gongkanthings, Lomography’s website, and Zoom camera shop.

DRINK UP

5 GREAT SKIN-HYDRATING MASKS Dr.Jart+ Cryo Rubber Moisturizing Mask B420 Available at Sephora

Foreo Green Tea (Purifying) UFO Activated Mask B700 Available at Sephora

Sephora’s Foot Mask B200 Available at Sephora

Estee Lauder’s Recovery Eye Mask B1,600 Available at Central Online

Holiday Vibes Mango Hand Masks B200 Available at Sephora

FASHION

ART

FURNITURE

Swatch releases a horrorthemed Halloween capsule collection

2Choey’s art exhibition Fingers Crossed is a breath of fresh air

Ikea launches a recycling center and circular shop

To amplify the chills and thrills this spooky season, Swiss watchmaker Swatch has released two scary-stylish watches with glow-in-the-dark features.

The matte black-colored (B3,950) timepiece comes with either a skull print (Run But You Can’t Hide) or a print that recalls Pennywise the clown (Your Time is Coming). The watch is charged by the sun during the day and glows at night, lighting up the dial and strap in Halloween-appropriate hues of blood-red or Frankenstein green. Available to purchase via swatch.com.

Street artist 2Choey’s domestic debut Fingers Crossed, which literally translates to “hoping for the best,” features the artist’s beloved “Fingies” characters to narrate stories and playfully recreate pop culture icons. The new collection is inspired by his experiences during the pandemic, from witnessing people’s misfortunes and fast food culture to the world of social media. Oct 16-Nov 14, 11am-8pm.

2/F, RCB Galleria 3, River City Bangkok, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 02-237-0077. Free entry.

Swedish furniture brand Ikea is encouraging Thai consumers to adopt sustainable practices by launching two new services at its Bang Yai branch: a circular shop and a recycling center. The circular shop runs a buy back and resell program, which allows you to trade your unwanted Ikea goods (to be recycled or donated) for Ikea family points so you purchase new items at an affordable price. Ikea reps say this is a step towards reaching the company’s zero waste goals and supporting Thailand’s circular economy.

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT OBLIO WIRELESS CHARGING STATION WITH BUILT-IN UV SANITIZER B2,950 Charge your phone and… sanitize it… on the go.

BIN IT DOD JUMP ROPE B6,900 If you pay more than B300 for a jump rope, we can’t help you.

BARGAIN NIKE AIR FORCE 1 07 B2,500 Fifty percent off? You had us at swoosh. Grab yours at JDsports.com.

the last word | against the current

This kayak enthusiast wants you to pay attention to Thailand’s canals During the 2011 floods, Rattasapa “Kiad” Mahachon was part of the volunteer group distributing life-saving aid via kayak. That piqued his curiosity into Thailand’s waterways.

In 2020, Kiad took up paddling in earnest, journaling his trips on the water on his Facebook page Pa Pi Pie, which roughly translates to “let’s go paddling,” and hosting trips for kayaking enthusiasts. We talked to him about his passion for paddling and the almost forgotten past of Thailand’s canals.

By Thanut Manthanasarnchai

W

hy did you start Pa Pi Pie? I’ve been passionate about paddling since I was 20, but I never took it seriously until the year of flooding in Bangkok. In 2011, my friends and I joined a rescue team to deliver food supplies. As the water was too high for anyone to drive, we had to paddle through the city in order to reach people affected by the floods. “Who would have imagined you could do this in Bangkok?” That’s what I thought at the time.

Since then I always seek opportunities to spend my time on my paddleboard. The more I’m on these canals, the more things that used to escape my notice have become clearer to me. There are so many unique communities around them, and their lives revolve around the water.

What do you normally notice when you’re on these trips?

It offers a perspective you don’t normally experience when you travel by car. Sure, when you look from afar at large temples near the river, you can get a glimpse of their beauty. But when you paddle through the canals, you notice something different. Water pollution, for example, is not something new, but when you are actually one inch away from it, it’s very apparent. Some routes also have their own stories, too, which may date back to even before the reign of Rama I. It’s fascinating to experience our history and culture by just passing through these communities. It lets you see transitions from water-based communities to our new urban lives.

Why do you think we disregard canal transportation these days?

It’s simply because we have changed our primary modes of transportation. Back in the day, we used to have a saying that Bangkok was the “Venice of the East” as people mainly commuted by boat and did most of their trade on the water. Our lives may have changed, but I don’t think canals are any less relevant in today’s society.

Canals and rivers run virtually everywhere. If we could make use of what we have, we would all stand to gain.

Waterway projects, when they get adequate support from the government, could be used for both recreational and tourism purposes.

What should Bangkok be doing to raise the awareness of water pollution and conservation?

We’ve lost our ties to water culture. We should find a way to reconnect us to them. There have been several attempts to restore and clean the canals in Bangkok, but the projects usually see low participation. I remember how people reacted when they learned I went paddling on Khlong Saen Saeb. They look bewildered and confused why I decided to do it. But someone needs to show them that people can actually paddle in these canals.

Do you feel the government is stepping up?

The government has been paying more attention to the canals lately. But I think they can do more, like launch a pilot study that goes beyond just the physical beauty of these canals, invest more effort in attracting young people, and promote participatory events. When we talk about canals, people have this picture of floating markets. I don’t think we can relocate all physical markets to the water, but if we could create something on that scale, surely it would attract more crowds.

Do you have any suggestions for those who want to start paddling like you?

Paddling, in a sense, can be safer than riding a bicycle on the road. You don’t have to worry about cars or bumpy surfaces like you do when you’re on land. But I do suggest that you should find an instructor to show you the ropes. Easy places to start are Tha Chin and Nakhon Chaisri rivers, since they hardly have motorboats traveling on them.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2020

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