BK Magazine 817 by BK Magazine

it's free! Holiday Stuffing 17 great places to feast in Bangkok this Christmas Memory Bank How fashion and photography help one woman fight dementia Food Diary Six hot new restaurants to check out this December Holidaze The holiday season in Bangkok by the numbers

NO. 817 DECEMBER 17, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

Bring on 2022.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2021

ADVERTORIAL

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Brought to you by Citi

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Looking for the very best of Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. These four restaurants will get your started Ginza Sushi Ichi Holder of one Michelin star in all three Thailand red guides, and an official selection for BK’s Top Tables Awards for nearly every year of the restaurant’s existence. LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-250-0014. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30-10pm

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Ginza Tenharu

Bangkok’s most pedigreed tempura omakase comes by way of Tokyo. The intimate dinners happen in an understated 12-seat space inside Gaysorn Village while two chefs man glass-encased frying stations, where they perform culinary magic. 3/F, Gaysorn Centre, Gaysorn Village, Phloen Chit Rd., Open 02-070-0014. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30-10pm

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Sushi Misaki Nobu

Ichika Omakase

Sushi Misaki Nobu sees Masahiro Misaki team up with Nobuhiro Nagasaki, with whom he previously worked at Ginza’s acclaimed Sushi Tokami. You’d do well to book ahead for a spot at the sleek 10-seat blond-wood counter.

The stanch commitment to quality here is immediately noticeable through the restaurant’s elite-quality ingredients (flown in from various areas of Japan) and little touches like the 150-year-old Hinoki wood cutting board the chefs use to slice and dice their way through 21-course omakase dinners.

M/F, Bandara Suites Silom, Sala Daeng Soi 1, 062-4952386. Open Tue-Sun 4-9:30pm

Rembrandt, Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm

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Ichika Omakase

Sushi Misaki Nobu

page 3 Who's in charge?

BK EDITORIAL Managing Editor Craig Sauers Senior Writers Alisha Pawa, Porpor Leelasestaporn Junior Writer Thanut Manthanasarnchai Contributors Megan Leon

upfront

GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO

Annual dumpster fire season begins in Bangkok, say officials

The holiday season, by the numbers

Business Director Dietrich Neu Head of Business Development Shernan Plameras Senior Content Strategists Andre Frois Associate Thai Editor Ittipol Jungwatanawong Senior Thai Writer Witthawat Pukkhabut Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Account Manager Hafiz Rasid Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana

Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Umporn Jiaranai Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Managers Joseph Toh, Chalida Anuwattanawong, Stanley Yeo, Akarat Boonbumroong Business Development Executive Palita Nueangnit

cover story

Are we at the tail end of Bangkok’s golden age?

SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

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While members of the public, inured to political shenanigans at this point, buried their heads in their hands and necked beer bottles to numb the sting of embarrassment, officials set out to capitalize on the forecast.

Celebrity chef Ton opens a new restaurant in Suan Phlu

BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication. Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam

Where to wine and dine in Bangkok this Christmas

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“‘Trash into Treasure in Amazing Thailand.’ ‘Thailand: Shining Bright Like a Diamond.’ That sort of thing,” he said. “But ultimately we decided to buy another five years of the Michelin guide instead.” During a house session early this morning, a member of the ruling Palang Pracharath Party suggested Thailand should lean into their entirely self-made dumpster fire status and aim for other obscure records to hold. “Like how Thailand has the record for ‘biggest mango sticky rice,’” she said.

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Late yesterday afternoon, a group of Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) employees were spotted at an emergency all-hands meeting at IconSiam. One mid-ranking TAT official, who requested anonymity for fear of being reassigned to Isaan duty should he be seen speaking to the press, admitted that the group discussed tourism campaigns that spin Thailand’s white-hot dumpster fire status as a net positive.

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Operations Manager Clarissa Cortes

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“We have a drug-dealing former minister who has somehow become a more sympathetic figure than his foil, the prime minister. We have elite murder fugitive Boss Yoovidhya allegedly hanging out in open sight in Austria. Gubernatorial elections are still kind of a meh: will they happen or won’t they, who knows? Then there’s the agricultural burn season and its man-made fires in northern Thailand, which we’re all powerless to stop for some reason, raging on and blanketing Bangkok in toxic smog,” said one aide to the prime minister to a press pool outside Government House. “We fully expect the 2021-2022 dumpster fire to be the biggest yet.”

BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited. The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.

Bangkok, Thailand—With new laws contradicting previous laws being passed almost daily, politicians scapegoating one another with greater frequency, and traffic descending into barely regulated chaos, it was clear that the annual dumpster fire season had begun in Bangkok, city and national government officials told reporters yesterday.

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“If we work together on this—by which I mean continue not working together on anything except for back-room deals— there’s no reason Bangkok can’t get into the Guinness Book of World Records for ‘loudest and longest collective sigh of exasperation’ or ‘population most resigned to its fate,’” she continued. “Maybe ‘the world’s biggest dumpster fire,’ too, but there’s fierce competition coming from Yangon for that title.”

upfront BY THE NUMBERS… THE HOLIDAYS IN BANGKOK

1,000,000 Number of gift items from across Thailand IconSiam claims to have for sale this year

200,000 Total number of tourists Thailand expects to welcome in all of 2021, compared to 3.9 million in just Dec 2019, a.ka. the holiday season

8,000 Average price in Thai baht for a Christmas dinner at a hotel in Bangkok*

Chance of a white Christmas in Bangkok, but we’re feeling merry anyway

40 Estimated height in meters of the Christmas tree in front of CentralWorld; the mall claims it’s the tallest in Southeast Asia

*Totally not a scientific or real statistic, but it sure seems as though these holiday dinners keep going up in price Sources: Ministry of Tourism and Sports, The Standard

YOU SAID WHAT?

HOT OR NOT

“Some of the best cocktails and most enthusiastic bartenders there, definitely a loss to BKK [nightlife].” Facebook user Leandro Nicolas Gerardo on Backstage Bar closing

“My fav! Love their wine list too Instagram user chelsearusch on Via Emilia

“Just what you need at 32 degrees. A padded jacket and a beanie.” Instagram user jnelmes67 on the North Face opening a flagship store in CentralWorld

”

SHOPPING

PORTMANTEAUS

’Tis the season to buy gifts for your family, your friends, even your bosses for some reason (although we would argue that dynamic should be reversed). ’Tis also the season for Thai mega-conglomerates to buy up luxury department stores overseas. Happy holidays, Selfridges. You’re now (likely) part of the Central group, along with other European luxury department stores, including KaDeWe, Rinascente, and Illum.

Edutainment had a moment in 2020. Hospitel ruled the worst of the pandemic this year. But now workation is dominating the field of made-up words. German-founded startup Holidu named Bangkok the world’s best city for a working vacation, a.k.a.“workation.” Bangkok topped other prime vacation spots such as *checks notes* Bucharest and New Delhi to claim the honor.

ROADS Another year, another shocking number of road deaths. Official statistics count nearly 13,000 deaths and more than 820,000 injuries in 2021 at press time. The number is likely to grow around the new year. At this point, Thailand is to road deaths as the U.S. of A. is to gun deaths.

ACCURACY In a recent Bangkok Post story, the Christmas Star Festival in Sakon Nakhon was described as being “among the much-anticipated annual events in Thailand for decades.” You could argue that half the people living in Thailand couldn’t point out Sakon Nakhon on a map, let alone know that this festival exists. Then again, maybe it’s as wild as Songkran and we’ve all been missing out.

cover | is the golden age over?

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2021

Bangkok is Burning December 2020 was supposed to mark a turning point in our lives: a symbolic step forward toward recovery. Instead, 2021 in Bangkok was more emotionally, politically, and physically trying than the year that preceded it. With businesses shuttered, pollution and inequality on the rise, and democracy crumbling, we spoke to experts and everymen alike to find out if the future still looks rosy for our favorite city. By BK Magazine

THE ISSUES Last year, US-based democracy advocacy group Freedom House downgraded Thailand to “not free,” which followed the Future Forward Party being disbanded, state forces cracking down on pro-democracy protests, and activists being threatened with criminal penalties, and often jailed, for speaking out for political or monarchy reform. More recently, Thailand was flagged by the Early Warning Project—a campaign operated by the US Holocaust Museum—for being at high risk of mass killings.

First, the bad stuff—and let’s start with the big issue that underpins them all: eroding democracy.

Then there are infrastructural issues. According to the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), Bangkok has about seven square meters of green space per person, less than the World Health Organization-recommended minimum of nine square meters. That obviously takes a toll on physical and mental health. It also contributes to other deleterious things. For instance, the urban heat island effect, which is when roads, buildings, and other concrete structures absorb solar radiation during the day and release it slowly at night, causing temperatures to rise. Our smog could be getting worse, too. Seasonal air pollution has ramped up in the past seven years, with no meaningful government response to safeguard public health. Instead, leadership has turned to water-spraying drones and other mediamoment gimmicks to battle the intensifying smog, which might be accelerating as our late-pandemic lives return to normal. What else? How about gentrification? It seems as though every year brings new and often unwanted changes to the city’s skyline. In September, we wrote about the razing of Klongsan Plaza in Thonburi, and we covered the changes to Samyan, Khaosan, and Nana in recent years, too. Now, the impending demise of Hua Lamphong and Chinatown has captured headlines. Earlier this year, Bloomberg’s Randy Thanthong-Knight and Anuchit Nguyen highlighted changes occurring to one of Bangkok’s oldest districts: “On Chinatown’s main drag, a historic community of shophouses is being turned into a mixed-use development with hotels, residences, a pagoda adorned with Buddhist artifacts, and a five-and-a-half-floor underground shopping mall. Thailand’s richest man, Charoen Sirivadhanabhakdi, controls the company behind the project… at 17 billion baht, it is the biggest ever investment in the neighborhood.”

The city’s facade is changing in other, less obvious ways, too. A year of lockdown restrictions left the food and drinks scene battered. At press time, nightlife businesses were still not allowed to operate (only those registered with restaurant licenses could serve alcohol). The disruption to normal business has caused dozens of independent venues to close, while wealthy groups have capitalized on the down market to take over vacated property. The balance of power continues to shift, the cost of living is increasing, and it all threatens creativity and invention. That speaks to yet another burning issue Bangkok faces: inequality. It’s hard to overlook the income and rights gaps when the pandemic has laid them so bare. According to Credit Suisse’s Global Wealth Report, in 2018 the richest one percent in Thailand controlled almost 67 percent of the country’s wealth (gotta love oligarchies). Earlier this year, the Constitutional Court ruled that only marriage between a man and woman is legally protected—a decisive setback for the equal rights movement. With these issues gaining greater potency, we asked city residents for their thoughts on life in Bangkok, as well as what can be done to save the city before irrevocable changes take root.

cover | is the golden age over? IS IT REALLY SO BAD?

HOW YOU FEEL ABOUT BANGKOK We asked, you answered.

WATTANAPUME “BEST” LAISUWANCHAI Film director, most recently the documentary School Town King

WEERAPON “BEER” SINGNOI Content creator, founder of Foto_momo, a page archiving Bangkok’s modernist architecture

What are the biggest issues Bangkok is facing now? It isn’t just about the loss of classic architecture. It’s about how the city is growing so rapidly and, most of the time, without any clear direction. Skyscrapers and condominiums keep popping up without concern for aesthetics or urban planning. For example, one condominium [on the river] ended up obscuring the view of Wat Phra Kaew. Not to mention the leaked plans showing what the city government would do to Hua Lamphong.

What should be done to make Bangkok a better place to live? I don’t think people have issues against modernity. But if you really want to preserve heritage buildings, we need better urban planning and more proper zoning.

What are the biggest issues Bangkok is facing now?

What can be done to make Bangkok a better place?

It’s how many people are falling off the radar. If you take a close look at the movie industry in Thailand, many films emphasize only what appeals to people residing in Bangkok. They only revolve around the life of the upper-middle class, and we need to ask ourselves why they never expand their scope beyond that. Most people in Bangkok have to leave their families and hometown behind so that they can access its privileges. When I made the documentary about the Klong Toey community [School Town King], I didn’t have any financial support until the film was about to be released because they [potential sponsors] deemed my work to be either too niche or not profitable.

The first step is to start recognizing people around you, and I believe that films can be necessary tools to achieve that. I’ve made many documentaries in the past, most of which revolve around people you may see every day but never notice. I interviewed sex workers, homeless people, and security guards in my previous film Dreamscape and tried to make their voices heard. I know that on a larger scale, like in policymaking, we may not be able to do much. But by acknowledging the underrepresented, recognizing their voices and concerns, and cherishing their narratives, we could remind people of the problems that need to be addressed and not lose sight of the people who are suffering from them.

WHICH OF BANGKOK’S BURNING ISSUES CONCERN YOU MOST? Sounds like it’s the environment. 25% POLLUTION

24.3% LIMITED FREEDOM OF SPEECH AND/OR ERODING DEMOCRACY

14.6% LACK OF GREEN SPACE

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT BANGKOK? Food, glorious food. 54.2% THE DINING SCENE

13.9% THE COST OF LIVING

6.9% THE MANY PLACES TO SHOP

WHAT WOULD MAKE BANGKOK A BETTER CITY TO LIVE IN? You really want better roads and traffic management, as well as more green space. 80.6% IMPROVED ROADS AND TRAFFIC MANAGEMENT

72.9% MORE GREEN SPACE

56.3% MORE PEDESTRIAN OR BIKE LANES

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2021

ARE YOU CONSIDERING LEAVING BANGKOK FOR SOMEWHERE ELSE?

WHY ARE PEOPLE LEAVING BANGKOK?

Despite Bangkok’s warts, most of you say you’re staying put. ... Increasingly repressive, whether on free speech/democracy, or on the constant—and pointless—war against alcohol/nightlife, the arts and creative industries, Bangkok is gradually losing what made it great in the 90s/early 2000s.

Would you consider moving back to Bangkok?

KAN 27, a game designer-developer in Tokyo

What was it like to move away from Bangkok? I think it expanded my opportunities. I graduated from university with a degree in linguistics, but I soon realized that I was more keen on gaming and development. Changing my career path would be difficult in Bangkok, but in Japan there’s a programmer school that accepts people from all backgrounds. It wasn’t easy. I had to compete with other people who studied computer science, but I got in. Game designers in Japan can earn more money than they can in Bangkok, too, even for entry-level positions.

I discussed this with my friends who work in the game industry here, and most of them told me I shouldn’t. I don’t think I could survive a day in Bangkok if I came back from Tokyo now. For starters, I don’t have to be on alert all the time when I go out on the streets, everything is largely on schedule, and the weather is better here. Back in Bangkok, I had to be aware of my surroundings all the time: Would someone tear my bag with a knife and steal something from me without my knowing it? Right now, after working here for three years, I’ve begun to forget my natural “Thai” instincts that would protect me if I went back there.

YES 16.6%

NO 54.2%

NOT SURE 29.2%

What should be done to make Bangkok a better place to live? Better and more reliable transportation would be a start.

DO YOU THINK BANGKOK IS STILL A GOOD PLACE TO LIVE? Even more of you are willing to overlook Bangkok’s flaws. Over 78% of you believe Bangkok is still a good place to be. ... Even with all the s... that goes on, the Big Mango is a great place to live. The city is vibrant and lively. There are not many places in the world where you can get cheap street food or, if you feel like it, fine dining that is quite affordable.

25, an au pair in California

After graduating, I worked as a content writer in the city and found that my lifestyle didn’t match my expectations. All the expenses and lack of security—I even got robbed one time when I was on the bus. One other thing I don’t like about Bangkok is how everything is always rushed.

What was it like to move away from Bangkok? It was hard when I moved to California to work as an au pair—more like culture shock—but the family that took me in is quite progressive and open-minded, which has made this a rewarding experience overall. The job isn’t that well-compensated, though. The average rate for a nanny is around US$10/hour (about B300), but my agency only gave me about US$45/hour (about B120-150), which is much lower than working as a waitress at some fast food restaurants. Still, I’m still able to earn more money here. My wages are higher than the salaries fresh graduates in Thailand usually get. The host family provides tuition fees for my school as well.

Any regrets? My grandfather died while I was here. According to the contract I signed, I couldn’t go back until it was complete. I talked with my family about it, and we all agreed that I should stay in California. It was sad that I couldn’t be with him when he passed away.

Would you consider going back to Bangkok? If there’s a chance that I don’t have to go back to Bangkok, I will definitely take it. I don’t really know what I would do if I went back. My hometown [Pathum Thani] doesn’t have many job opportunities for me, and I really love this version of myself in the US. The air quality is also better, and the people seem to be less judgmental: no one really cares if I wear a swimsuit, for example.

What do you think could make Bangkok a better place? I know that the problems with the high living costs may be difficult to fix, but what I’d love to see is better and more inclusive public transportation—something that we barely have in Bangkok. People like me who don’t drive rely on it. True, bus fares are cheap, but the bus is far from convenient.

... Maybe yes because if our government still has this low potential to develop the country it will affect every aspect of our life, [including] our happiness. ... Bangkok only feels like a temporary stay, You don’t wanna settle in [Bangkok]. Just enjoy life when you can and settle somewhere safer with less chaos…

OOY What do you like or dislike about Bangkok?

YES 78.5%

NO 6.2%

NOT SURE 15.3%

... It is still by far more livable compared with the majority of capital cities in ASEAN.

... Physically Bangkok is by no means a liveable city (lack of green space, pollution, pavement conditions, etc.), but there is no doubt that the best services, including education, art spaces, and healthcare are only available here, making it difficult for other provinces in the country to match. ... Only a livable place for rich Thais and expats. When a cocktail at one of the bars you feature costs more than the daily minimum wage, there is something seriously wrong.

food & drink | new & noted

Lahnyai Nusara

TABLE TALK

CIAO PIZZA Silom Soi 3, 094-754-7777. Open daily 11am-3pm, 5-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng With dough that has been stretched over a period of up to 48 hours, Ciao Pizza cooks its pizzas in a hybrid wood-fired oven right by the front window.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 15% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige and Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred Or Get 10% discount for other Citi Credit Cards (on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip) 1 Jan - 31 Dec ’21 And Get 15% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select Or Get 10% discount for other Citi Credit Cards (on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip) 1 Jan '22 - 31 Dec '22

TBT-ciao_.indd 1

NEW AND NOTED

Celebrity chef Ton expands his restaurant empire into Suan Phlu

Old World vibes in a forgotten Ratchathewi alley

Bangkok Instagram can’t get enough of this riverside cafe

Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn’s Lahnyai Nusara is elaborately decorated with mirrored ceilings, green-tinted walls lined with family photos, and tables dotted with romantic floral arrangements. This lofty setting sets the tone for tasting menus (B3,590) rooted in reinterpreted dishes made using his grandmother’s recipes. For example, traditional Thai desserts loaded with shavings of white truffle, Hokkaido scallop with crab roe and shrimp head sauce, and dry-aged duck with a nang roy curry (a royal dish with stuffed peppers). In the mood for truffle? You can add extra for around B900 for two grams. Bookings recommended.

Tucked away in a Ratchathewi alley, the vintage-style Piccolo Vicolo brings Old World vibes and new energy to an overlooked area. Meaning “little alley” in Italian, the cafe is part of the GalileOasis space, a revitalized commercial building that houses a hotel, art space, theater, and this cafe. The interiors are all brushed concrete and shabby walls, speckled with vintage furniture, exposed beams, and potted plants. Try the green-topped matcha coconut water (B140), or something simple like a piccolo latte (B100) made with the option of light to medium roast beans. On the side, order the lemon tart or Basque cheesecake with raspberry sauce (both B140).

Perched right beside the river, Tsai Eatery is Thonburi’s latest Instagram hotspot. But the cafe aims to offer more than awesome photo ops. Founded by the folks behind the B Story fashion label, among others, the cafe centers around a glass-encased, olive green-painted building. This quaint structure is surrounded by a native banyan tree, shading an outdoor patio where crowds come by the dozen to take selfies and down fusion-y dishes like green curry with chicken and crispy roti (B220) and striploin steak with nam jim jaew (B350), plus lighter bites and drinks like banana shakes (B145) and the signature Tsai coffee (white malt and honey, B120).

535/32 Trok Wat Phraya Yang (Banthat Thong Rd.), IG @piccolo.vicolo.cafe

380 Somdet Chao Phraya Rd., 097-178-1378

Baan Turtle Bldg., 31 Suan Phlu Soi 2, 062-242-5966

9/12/2564 BE 18:44

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2021

Kauai

Sarnies Sourdough

TABLE TALK

HONG BAO Via Emilia brings the food of Emilia Romagna to Sathorn’s back sois

Healthy eating tastes better than ever thanks to Asoke’s Kauai

Sarnies expands with a sourdough bakery in Charoenkrung

When you think of Emilia Romagna, products like parmigiano reggiano, balsamic vinegar from Modena, and prosciutto di Parma should all come to mind. At Via Emilia, these goodies are used generously throughout the menu, including in starters like the Piadina (B320). This version of a soft cheese sandwich usually found on the streets of Rimini is filled with rocket leaves, thin slices of prosciutto, and creamy stracchino cheese. Then there are mains like the cotoletta alla Petroniana (B990), a large breaded veal chop topped with Parma ham and parmigiano cheese. Pizzas here are certainly no afterthought, either, made with 72-hour-fermented, naturally leavened dough (from B260).

Founded in South Africa and owned by a self-proclaimed nutrition nerd, Kauai specializes in simple, accessible meals and drinks made with seasonally sourced ingredients—ideal if you’re looking to eat a bit better or you’re on the go. In Thailand, the chain is run by the Dusit group, who have helped it scale from gym-based haunt to expanding mini-empire with dishes like the dragon fruit smoothie bowl (pink dragon fruit, mango, coconut milk, pressed apple juice, banana, and mint; B190); sliced avocado with poached free-range eggs (B150); and the popular princess wrap (B240) filled with chicken, avocado, feta, and veggies.

The Sarnies group keeps growing. This time, they’ve added another bakery in Charoenkrung. Sarnies Sourdough boasts a menu filled with pastries, indulgent toasties, and sourdough loaves baked fresh daily. Try their cruffins in five flavors, like lemon basil meringue (B160), or for something heartier, go for the salmon chowder bread bowl (B330) or kimchi bacon cheese toastie (B350). Christmas delicacies are also available in the bakery or to purchase via their online store. The bakery will soon reveal an evening pizza menu with a bunch of beers, wines, and cocktails, too.

1040 Naradhiwas Rajanagarinda Soi 17, Yaek 5, 02-676-4466

Asoke Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 080-950-0362

55/14 Charoenkrung Soi 42/1, bkkshop.sarnies.com

All Branches (Except Ramada Phuket) , Open daily 11 am - 10 pm This all-day dim sum spot serves up some of the best and most authentic Cantonese dishes in Bangkok — the Peking duck is a must-try.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 15% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige and Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred Or Get 10% discount for other Citi Credit Cards (on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip) 1 Jan - 31 Dec ’21 And Get 15% discount on food only when spending THB 1,500 or more /sales slip for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select Or Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip for other Citi Credit Cards 1 Jan '22 - 31 Dec '22

TBT-hongbao_.indd 1

9/12/2564 BE 18:44

food & drink | christmas dining deals

FESTIVE FEASTS

Where to wine and dine in Bangkok on Christmas and Christmas Eve, for every budget. By BK Magazine

B2,000 OR LESS Bardo Social Bistro and Bar

Panorama

Sathorn’s French-leaning Mediterranean bar-restaurant offers four-course Christmas dinners, featuring dishes like zucchini rosti with foie gras terrine, wagyu short ribs, Hokkaido scallops, poached pears, and more

On Christmas Eve, choose from a three-dish selection or unlimited a la carte offerings like roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, honeyglazed ham, and roast turkey. Christmas brunch features dishes like roast turkey, pan-seared foie gras, and toast skagen.

Date: Dec 22-26 Price: B1,590++ (includes welcome cocktail) 28/12 Sathorn Soi 10, 084-079-8830

Chim Chim Chim Chim’s “Bite Me” menu features two-bite dishes, including the uni and king crab King’s Toast, a reimagined lobster roll with confit potato, and more. All dishes are B750. Date: Dec 24-25, 8:30am-10:30pm. Chim Chim, G/F, Siam@Siam Design Hotel, 865 Rama 1 Rd., 02-217-3000

The Londoner On Christmas Eve and Christmas, the longstanding British pub offers four-course meals (including a glass of prosecco), featuring mains like roast turkey roulade, wagyu rib-eye with truffle sauce, or vegan roast with vegan gravy. Dishes are available a la carte on Dec 24, too. Date: Dec 24-25, 10am-11pm. Price: B1,595+/person 1178 Phattanakarn Rd., 02-022-8025

Date: Dec 24, 6-10pm; Dec 25, 11:30am-3pm. Price: B1,999 set menu/B2,499 unlimited a la carte (Dec 24); B1,499 (Dec 25) Panorama, 23/F Crowne Plaza, 952 Rama 4 Rd., 02-632-9000

Treat by Saneh Jaan The Sindhorn Midtown’s upscale-casual, modern Thai flagship offers a Christmas Eve buffet dinner and Christmas buffet brunch. Expect live carving, dessert, and dim sum stations, as well as a full spread of Thai and international dishes, including lighter bites for kids.

Bardo Social Bistro and Bar

Date: Dec 24, 6-9pm; Dec 25, 11:30am-3pm. Price: B1,499++ (free-flow non-alcoholic drinks); B2,399++ (free-flow alcoholic drinks) Sindhorn Midtown Hotel, 02-796-8888

Ventisi This all-you-can-eat buffet offers Thai favorites and Italian classics alongside festive dishes, including roast turkey with all the trimmings, pigs in a blanket, and free-flow seasonal drinks. Date: Dec 24, 6-10:30pm; Dec 25, noon-3pm, 6-10:30pm. Price: B1,999++/person; 999++/children Ventisi, 24/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 02-100-6255

Chim Chim

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2021

B4,000-B6,000 Alati For both the semi-buffet lunch and dinner, you’ll find Mediterranean-leaning dishes like squid ink pasta with lobster and prawn ragout, wagyu medallions with truffle mash, and more, plus a carving station and festive desserts. Date: Dec 24-25, noon-10:30pm. Price: B4000++/person G/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. 02-162-9000 Clara

Zuma

Ms.Jigger Expect festive cocktails, Italian-styled cicchetti (small plates), and a five-course feast on dishes like almond-crusted lamb loin and ravioli filled with burrata and tiger prawns.

B2,000-B4,000 The Anantara Siam

Colonnade

The luxury hotel turns its Parichart Court into a Christmas wonderland, with buffet spreads of traditional festive fare, a variety of free-flow packages, Christmas caroling, a visit by Santa Claus, and a live band on Christmas Eve.

The hotel’s flagship restaurant serves a Christmas Eve buffet dinner featuring fresh seafood, international dishes, and roast turkey with festive sweets. At the Christmas lunch, expect premium seafood, a barbecue station, wagyu, lamb, roast turkey, and more.

Date: Dec 24 6-10:30pm, Dec 25 11:30am-3:30pm. Price: B2,500-4,500++ (Dec 24), B2,900-4,900++ (Dec 25) G/F, Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-126-8866

Andy Ricker at Jua Andy Ricker will be whipping up a Christmas Eve family-style feast alongside resident chef Chet Adkins. Expect dishes that span Western and Thai flavors, from Stanbroke Ranch prime rib, cornbread stuffing with Hiroshima oysters, and pumpkin pie to duck confit with makwaen (prickly ash) and Brussels sprouts stir-fried with smoked oyster sauce, pork belly, and scallops. Date: Dec 24, 5:30pm and 8pm seatings. Price: B3,800/person (includes one drink) 642/79 Charoenkrung Soi 28, 02-103-6598

Clara Chef Christian Martena serves a seven-course Christmas menu spanning four or seven regions of Italy, highlighted by Gallipoli red prawn, scampi with Venusian tomato, and more exciting dishes. Both menus include a glass of Ferrari Brut Blanc de Blancs. Date: Dec 23-25. Price: B3,080++ Four Regions (Dec 23 dinner, Dec 25 lunch), B4,280++ Seven Regions (Dec 24-25 dinner) 69 Soi Prasat Suk (Yen Akat)

Date: Dec 24, 6:30-10:30pm; Dec 25, noon-3pm. Price: B3,888++/person The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888 ext. 8605

Date: Dec 24, 5:30-11pm. Price: B4,100/person (includes cocktail pairing) Ms. Jigger, G/F, Kimpton Maa-Lai, 78 Soi Tonson, 02-056-9999

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin Up & Above

Stock.Room

Price: B4,800++ (Dec 24), B3,000++ (Dec 25) Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, G/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000

Stock.Room hosts dinner on Christmas Eve and brunch on Christmas, featuring dishes like beef tenderloin, canadian lobster macaroni and cheese, and seafood and chorizo paella. Beyond the food, expect DJs and live music, face-painting, magic, and more for kids. Date: Dec 24, 6:30-10:30pm; Dec 25, noon-3pm. Price: B2,950/person (Dec 24), B2,600/person (Dec 25) 5/F, Kimpton Maa-Lai, 78 Soi Tonson, 02-056-9999

Sra Bua serves a six-course Christmas lunch and eight-course Christmas Eve dinner, featuring creative dishes like gravlax with lemongrass, palm sugar, and freshly grated wasabi; yellow curry with crab, apple, and fermented garlic; and more.

Up & Above

Ms. Jigger

The Okura Prestige rolls out a Christmas-themed dinner buffet with dishes like stuffed capon with foie gras; roast suckling pig; salmon Wellington with yogurt-dill sauce; sushi and sashimi; festive sweets; and more. Date: Dec 24, 6-10pm. Price: B3,200++/person with non-alcoholic beverages The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-687-9000

Zuma Zuma dishes up Japanese delicacies for the holidays, like seared toro with caviar, Chilean sea bass with green chili ginger dressing, and spicy beef tenderloin with sesame, red chili, and sweet soy, plus deluxe dessert platters.

B6,000 AND UP Cote by Mauro Colagreco

Date: Dec 24-25, 6-11pm. Price: B3,820++/person. The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-4707

The Capella’s fine dining powerhouse offers nine-course set menus highlighting Rivierainspired cuisine featuring seasonal ingredients, plus special chocolate boxes.

Cote by Mauro Colagreco

Date: Dec 24 6-10pm, Dec 25 noon-2pm. Price: B9,500 (Dec 24; add B4,500 for wine pairing), B8,100 (Dec 25; add B4,000 for wine pairing) Capella Bangkok, 300/2 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-098-3888

hit list | lifestyle

Brew it up at Thailand Coffee Fest 2021 FOOD & DRINKS

Love coffee? Then don’t miss this year’s Thailand Coffee Fest, put on by the Specialty Coffee Association of Thailand and uber-hip Thai digital magazine The Cloud. The annual event fans out over 15,000 square meters at Impact Arena, featuring 200 coffee shops and brands. This year, there will be new dedicated zones and activities, including workshops and panel discussions. Whether you’re a newbie to the coffee world or a connoisseur, this is a fine chance to meet baristas, roasters, farmers, and learn more about Thailand’s coffee industry. Visitors can also enjoy complimentary products exhibited here, including tea, chocolate, and baked goods. Dec 23-26, 10am-8pm. Impact Exhibition Center Hall 5-7, Muang Thong Thani.

SMELLS LIKE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT

5 SCENTED CANDLES FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON Tis the Season: sweet red apple and cinnamon

B1,450

Available at Bath & Body Works

Holiday: Christmas clove buds and nutmeg B1,450 Available at Bath & Body Works

Pure Bliss: Vanilla B650

Available at Siam Candles

Yankee Singing Carols B1,590

Available at Yankee Candles Thailand

Pralyn English Rose B390 Available on Shopee

NIGHTLIFE

LIFESTYLE

ACTIVITIES

Find the Photo Booth closes on Sukhumvit Soi 11

The Ratchada Train Market founders open a new market just in time for winter

’Tis the season at K Village’s open-air Christmas market

Alas, there’s another victim of Bangkok’s unending bar lockdown. Shortly after Backstage Bar called it quits, Sukhumvit Soi 11’s hidden speakeasy Find the Photo Booth announced it would be shutting down at its current location. The bar was known mostly for its cheeky photo booth entrance, tucked away at the back of a sports bar. But regulars also loved the high-energy vibes, DJ sets, and great cocktails. One potential positive, though: the bar team said this is not goodbye forever. They are currently looking for a new location to relaunch in the future.

The Ratchada Train Night Market might not have returned (yet?), but its organizers have relocated a kilometer away with a new pop-up market called Jodd Fairs. Expect more than 600 vendors selling everything from street food and plants to handicrafts, fashion, and collectibles. Like its predecessor, this market is also open-air, but fortunately the weather right now is *chef’s kiss*, and so this is a great time to check it out.

This Dec 22-26, K Village will be hosting an open-air Christmas market featuring more than 150 vendors, offering lifestyle products, home decor, fashion, art, gadgets, and other gift-worthy items. Expect a wide range of food and drink vendors as well as fun-filled activities, too. For example, you can tap into the holiday spirit with carousel rides, game booths, and photo ops with Santa, if that’s not beyond you as an adult (we’re not judging).

Open daily 11am-midnight. Behind MRT Phra Rama 9 exit 2.

Open 11am-9pm. K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26.

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT MARC JACOB’S DAISY EAU DE TOILETTE GIFT SET B3,750 This set is a safe bet when it’s Christmas Eve and you’re panic-shopping for gifts at Central.

BIN IT PHILIPS AIR FRYER B2,990 Start 2022 with a fresh mindset. Meaning, drop the pretense of health and just go for the deepfried stuff already.

BARGAIN POLO TRAVEL BAG B1,999 At more than 70 percent off, you’ll have extra money to burn on flights and hotels. Available at Central Online.

the last word | the fabric of memory

This mother and son are using Instagram and fashion to help her fight dementia T Archara “Taew” Na Ayuthaya, 71, never let age define her sense of fashion. Before she was diagnosed with dementia, her wardrobe was filled with clothes in every color imaginable. As her memories began to fade, so did her sense of style. But her son, Narinintarakul “Nin” Na Ayuthaya, is helping her keep her fashion sense alive and memories sharp, documenting their day-to-day life on the Instagram account 70youngteaw. By Porpor Leelasestaporn

ell us about 70youngteaw. When we created the account, we were off the radar. I didn’t think that people would be interested in our story. One day, I brought her to an exhibition at Lhong1919. She was wearing everything pink, from head to toe. A news reporter spotted her. We told her [the reporter] it’s just a typical day for us and a way to make use of my mother’s old clothes; I had grown up seeing her in colorful clothes all the time, and it pained me to see how she slowly stopped taking care of herself. She would only wear worn-out clothes while these really beautiful, vibrant items would collect dust. After the reporter shared our story, 70youngteaw gained a lot of followers. When did you start noticing her dementia? About two or three years ago, she started to become forgetful and needed assistance on basic things, like keeping appointments and day-to-day activities. But it became clear to me when we were on a trip to Phuket last year. Not only did she forget the flight’s departure time, she also struggled to get out of the washroom by herself. Has your mother ever shared her concerns about memory loss with you? No. I mean, she’s always had a positive outlook on life and never had many concerns. She’s the type of person who laughs with joy when she has a medical checkup and the doctor tells her that her blood pressure and blood sugar levels are in the normal range.

Was it difficult to accept your mother’s diagnosis? I didn’t waste any time worrying about the diagnosis, but I did have a moment with myself, wondering how I could help her live with her condition. After returning from Phuket, [when we knew this was real], I started decluttering my house so that we could live together. For many patients with dementia, untidy spaces can pose extra burdens—they make it difficult to process or organize thoughts. [When she moved in], it wasn’t like we could blindly throw everything out. I spent a lot of time picking out old clothes from her wardrobe. Luckily, I’m a photographer and have worked for many fashion magazines, so I knew which clothes or fabrics to keep. What have been the biggest challenges for you? When we started living together, describing our house as a “war zone” would not be an exaggeration. Neighbors might have thought that I turned into a monster since they could hear me scolding my mother for taking a shower in front of our house. It wasn’t that I was angry with her, but sometimes I think we have to remain strict to help her recover. My grandfather also suffered from dementia. He stayed at the hospital and we hired nurses to help him, but I also noticed that he rarely had a chance to participate in everyday activities. He became like an old banana that slowly lost its color. I didn’t want that to happen to my mom, so I decided that we had to establish a system where my mother could remain active. Guide us through your mother’s activities. We do anything that can boost her motor skills. Apart from our little photo sessions, she keeps a diary so that she can record some of our adventures and recall some of the fun we had that day. Even normal activities like watching television together can become a way to stimulate her mind. I’ll prod her with questions like, “what do you think about this cheetah?” or “don’t you think the stripes on its back look beautiful?” I also plan to take these little challenges to the next level. I want to see if her mind will let her do something that she has never done before, like horseback riding. Has her condition improved? Before the lockdown, I always brought her to a food stall near my house to eat together. When the restrictions were lifted five months ago, the stall owner said to me that my mother had become more talkative, unlike the last time she saw her. Sometimes, she regains interest in some of her possessions. One time she brought up a ring and recalled how she once had a jewel crafter attach a diamond to it. I also hear her talking to herself about the things that happened in the past. It’s like she’s slowly regaining her senses, one step at a time. As her caretaker, how do you balance your responsibilities? I’m always serious about my exercise. Even before my mother’s diagnosis, I always found time to go jogging or swimming regardless of my schedule. Since she started living with me, I’ve adapted my running schedule to fit with our new life. I’ll spend time walking from home to buy groceries, or run early in the morning or in the evening after she falls asleep. It’s not that I completely changed my lifestyle to match hers. We have to find a balance that lets us tend to our own lives, too.

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NO. 817 DEC 17, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com