BK Magazine 822 by BK Magazine

it's free! New Face BK Magazine speaks with the latest (and youngest) Kla Party hopeful Last Call Bangkok's beleaguered bars struggle to fill vacancies Lifelong Learning Elderly students find community and care in an IT class Samut Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn puts the focus on ingredients in Phuket

Up and at 'em

NO. 822 MAY 27, 2022. www.bkmagazine.com

50 of Bangkok’s best breakfasts

food & drink ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Meshiagare!

Four must-try Japanese restaurants in Bangkok Gen Japanese Charcoal Grill

Masa Garden

Gen goes well beyond its grilled chicken-specializing sister to serve up a wider variety of meat grilled on binchotan charcoal. While the free-range chicken still stands as one of the stars (try the slightly-roasted breast with yuzu kosho paste), the restaurant also does some fine Japanese wagyu.

The Masa Group is at it again with a third opening, this time a sumibiyaki (charcoal-grilled) and Kansaistyle sukiyaki restaurant in Phrom Phong. Expect plenty of Kansai-style sukiyaki, shabu shabu, nabe kimchi, butter yaki, nabe, and more to fill your belly during visits.

Acmen Complex, 267/31 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai). Mon 5-11pm; Wed-Fri 5-11pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am– 2pm, 5-11pm

120 Soi Phrom Chit, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, 02-123-8581. Open Tue-Sun 11am-10pm

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members

Get 5% discount on food only

Get a complimentary Satsumaimo Dorayaki or Ice Cream valued THB 80 when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip

1 Jan - 31 Dec ’22

(limit 1 serve /card /table /sales slip) 1 Jan - 31 Dec ’22

Kitaohji Ginza Thailand

This kaiseki (Japanese fine dining) specialist traces its roots back 70 years to Tokyo’s chic Ginza district. Expect meticulously prepared meals spread out over a lengthy set of courses, starting with sashimi and moving on to your choice of premium mains like charcoal grilled wagyu beef or steamed hairy crab. 212 Thonglor Soi 8, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-714-7997. Open daily 4-10pm; Sat-Sun 10:30am-2pm

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select 1 Apr ’22 - 31 Mar ’23

Kyo-Tei The sleek Japanese fine-dining venue looks like it was built inside a millionaire’s villa, and it does a little bit of everything (kaiseki, teppanyaki and omakase). It’s culinary concept delivers a modern, yet respectful approach towards kaiseki specifically, a historically significant multi-course Japanese finedining experience.

Gen Japanese Charcoal Grill

110/06 Sukhumvit 38, 063-306-3636. Open Sun-Thu 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-9pm; Fri-Sat 11am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm

Masa Garden

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 6,000 or more /sales slip for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select (excluding beverages) 1 May - 31 Dec ’22

Brought to you by Citi

Kitaohji Ginza Thailand

Kyo-Tei

page 3 Who's in charge?

BK EDITORIAL Managing Director Dietrich Neu Managing Editor Tyler Roney Deputy Editor Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Senior Writer Porpor Leelasestaporn Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn

cover story

GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Business Development Shernan Plameras

Food and drink trends that are getting old fast

The ultimate guide to breakfast in Bangkok

Senior Brand Editor Julianne Greco Branded Content Writer Moe Thet War Associate Thai Editor Ittipol Jungwatanawong Senior Thai Writer Witthawat Pukkhabut Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Account Manager Hafiz Rasid Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana Art Director Tan Kar Liang

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Umporn Jiaranai

feature

Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Managers Chalida Anuwattanawong, Danial Heng, Joseph Toh, Pearline Phua Business Development Executive Palita Nueangnit

Bangkok bars struggle to find and maintain staff in the age of Covid

SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

food & drink

Independence, Taan, and a whole new way to look at gap glaem

Speakeasies that won’t shut up It’s not a secret because you keep sending us press releases about it. Once upon a time, it was cute, with Find the Locker Room and a few others. But, the cruel hipster reign of speakeasies in general should quietly come to an unceremonious end. It was very cute and you’re very clever, but it’s enough already. The idea reeks of fidget spinners. In any case, we recently had an actual form of prohibition, and we didn’t do speakeasies; everyone just bribed the cops.

BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication. Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam Head of Operations and Talent Clarissa Cortes

coconuts.co Advertise with us advertising@coconuts.co

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OPPY gives elderly tech students a chance to live life to to the fullest

Where to find us! Coconuts BK Limited

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Truffle everything We don’t want to argue about how it’s not a proper truffle if it doesn’t come from the truffle region of Narnia or whatever. And we won’t complain about the McDonalds truffle burger or Burger King truffle fries. No, this is about chefs around the city who have clearly made something pretty good and then a marketing executive comes in and says: “Make it more fungus.” No one wants to stare down a whole degustation menu of truffle oil. Do you like gout? Because that’s how you get gout. Lemongrass doesn’t make it Thai No one’s saying lemongrass isn’t nice. It’s probably one of our top five favorite grasses. But shoveling it all over some french fries and calling it “Thai potatoes” is nonsense. This goes for you too, bartenders—and your Thai mojitos and Thai Manhattans. Lemongrass is a staple in Cambodian, Vietnamese, and Indonesian food. It’s like putting some wasabi on a sausage and calling it a Japanese hotdog.

BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited. The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.

Gold flake. Enough. Do you know what gold tastes like? No, because you’re not dragons. Also, this isn’t luxurious. Do you think the oligopolies are sitting around putting gold leaf in their Chang beer made from the tears of disqualified Move Forward Party candidates? No. Do you think the Trump family put gold flakes on their panda steaks? Well, yeah, probably. But, we’re sick of it anyway.

feature

the last word

Phuket fine dining spot puts ingredients first

BK speaks to the new face of the Kla Party

We can’t eat your pretty chairs There is a species of cafe that exists entirely for the Instagrammer. That’s fine. But, in addition to inundating the capital, cafes like this pollute Thailand tourist attractions around the country. Beyond the coworking space chic of here-today-gone-tomorrow cash grab cafes, the drinks are barely mid-range. Instagram cafes don’t need to care about their food, but they should. Passion fruit in cocktails Do you suffer from selfies with the rind of a passion fruit in your mouth? Then you might be suffering from being a basic. Contact your local bartender to find out if having a proper drink is right for you. That’s not tapas Putting a bunch of marshmallows covered in chocolate in a bowl is not tapas. How is that tapas? Because it’s on a tiny plate? You can put a tiny plate underneath a Subaru hatchback. That’s not tapas. Savory and Spanish. That’s tapas. That said, Thaipas is a pretty cute name and we like the food. Uni everything Mm. Echinoderm gonads. Of course, there is a time and a place for this dish—a mix of sweet, savory, and seafood. That place is not toast. Very few people have a craving for the reproductive organs of a sea urchin, but they do go well with pasta and on their own. The must-have uni madness has gone too far. We are uni-mpressed.

upfront BY THE NUMBERS RETURN OF THE TOURISTS?

200,000

6-8

MILLION TOURISTS

expected for 2022, down from 10 million in 2019

94.8%

foreign arrivals April 29 - May 4

of Thai Pass applications approved at the beginning of May

40% +/Thais have received a booster vaccine

MAY 1 PCR tests dropped for arrivals

YOU SAID WHAT?

“I remember seeing a Justin Beiber ticket nailed to a tree, so I took it, you never know when you’re going to need a nail.” Instagram user malcolmd2012 on the announcement of Justin Beiber’s upcoming concert in Bangkok.

“Food is an intrinsic part of Thailand’s identity. Multinational corporate food is bad for Thailand.” Facebook user Wren Arrington on the announcement Shake Shack is coming to Bangkok.

“He said something interesting about ‘making your own beer’. A well aimed dig at the beer monopoly. I like this guy already.” Facebook user Will Macc on BK Magazine’s interview with Pasakorn “PK” Vanasirikul.

B500-600 BILLION

Projected revenue for drawing 5-6 million tourists this year

HOT OR NOT

BIEBER FEVER

AROO!

Despite the city being put through incredible suffering of the last few years, 28-year-old pop sensation Justin Bieber announced this month that he will be visiting Thailand in November. It didn’t take long for scalpers to find out that the crazed fans of the pop star would pay obscene amounts to hear him sing songs he probably got sick of singing a decade ago. In one report, tickets for the zone closest to the stage were allegedly going for B37 million baht.

The US-born Spartan Race is making a comeback to Thailand after years of the pandemic moratorium— this time taking place at Huay Tueng Tao, Chiang Mai in August. Those who registered for the previous Chiang Mai race in 2020 or 2021 will be able to use deferment codes to sign up for the same race type and category. Those who bought tickets for the postponed 2019 races will be emailed codes as well as instructions on how to register for the race once it opens. Spartan Race is the ultimate obstacle course, but the shortest distance, the “Spartan Sprint”’ (5km, 20 obstacles), can be a fun activity to take on with your friends.

MANGO MUSH Mango sticky rice has never had it so good, thanks to Milli. Worldwide stardom, lines around the block in Bangkok, and endless think pieces and tips. It was only a matter of time before some food site decided they knew how to make Thailand’s national dessert—without so much as googling it. The award for dumbest recipe goes to Tasty, a longtime recipe website with 1.7 million Twitter followers that posted a video of making mango mush, a sort of mango rice porridge. We are watching Tasty, and we are not impressed.

LOUDER IN THE BACK You’re not even allowed to use a decibel meter to gauge how loudly students are screaming in blind allegiance to the anthem—as was the case in Pathum Thani in 2020. But, a school in Songkhla had enough this month, with a new student handbook that said not squealing the anthem loudly enough would cost 10 points. They’re also giving out demerits for not standing straight enough while respecting the flag, not singing, and “Actions that undermine the stability of the institution” cost a whopping 50 points.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2022

SAVE THE DATES! PRE-REGISTRATION

PRE-REGISTRATION

cover | best of brekkie

Century-old cafes, heavenly chocolates, shumai, sweets, dosa—the ultimate guide to breakfast in Bangkok.

CHATUCHAK - ARI LANDHAUS BAKERY This German-slash-Austrian bakery is known for its exceptional bread and pastries fresh out of the concrete and steel oven. Start your day with a simple open breakfast sandwich (B150), piled with fluffy scrambled eggs, spinach tomatoes, and mushroom, or get an Austrian classic: slightly burnt cheese bread sticks (B45). There’s a cute garden made for lazy days, which can be enjoyed with a piping hot Americano (B60) or a frothy cappuccino (B70). 18 Phahon Yothin Soi 5, 086-889-9210. Open Tue-Sun 7am-7pm

EGGTISAN Run by the same folks as the Common Room x Ari, this vibrantly red spot is for the true egg master, whipping up all possible variations of egg-based dishes in Ari. Try the scrambled eggs (B170) served alongside smoked salmon toast or a runny eggs sandwich (B195). The venue has a high standard for their coffee, and basic drinks start at B90; special drinks like espresso on milk cream go for B125. 106 Phahonyothin Soi 5, 084-441-6899. Open daily 7am-4pm

QRAFT

OH VACODA This adorable retro cafe in Ari Soi 4 runs with the concept of “nothing but avocado” and reimagines simple dishes with avocado surprises, like their pad kaprao served with deep-fried avocado or avocado-bacon pancake topped with a giant, fluffy egg (B235). There’s also an ultra thick avocado smoothie made fresh every day. 1/1 Ari Samphan Soi 4, 090-986-4779. Open Thu-Sun 9am-9pm; Mon 9am-9pm; Tue 9am-9pm

YELLOW LANE CAFE Set in a renovated complex on Soi Ari 1, Yellow Lane Cafe is arguably one of Ari’s best breakfast spots. The sandwiches are the real highlights, with simple, tasty combinations like the sourdough chicken sandwich (B350) or smashed avocado on toast, topped with refreshing greens and poached eggs. Not that hungry? Just sip the iced Americano (B90) or hot cappuccino (B100) in the airy landscaped garden. 92 Phahonyothin Soi 5, 065-123-8378. Open daily 9am-5pm

The brains behind zen-like teahouse Peace Oriental are now getting into the croissant game at this spot in Ari Soi 1. With its unique blends of Japanese flour and butter, Qraft draws massive crowds for its light, flaky, buttery croissants. The plain starts at B75, while special fillings like savory miso caramel and koicha will set you back B145. 5/7 Ari Soi 1, 061-387-1578. Open daily 8am-10pm

KATIE CHOCOLATERIE

new

Oh Vacoda

Next to Ari’s buzzing bakery Kenn’s Coffee and Croissant is its sister cafe focusing on chic chocolate creations. The concept is simple: Enjoy their chocolate without unnecessary table manners. Their hedgehog (B245) sees hot chocolate topped with pointy chocolate bars, while Spicy Katie (B265) arrives in a margarita-like drink rimmed with chili and spice on the glass. There’s also a crispy cookie shot (B85) with either single origin or special blend cacao. 1/5 Ari Soi 2, 061-401-9141. Open daily 8am-6pm.

BEHIND THE BAR CAFE Just a stone’s throw away from Chatuchak Park, this laidback cafe whips up espresso (B70), iced yuzu long blacks (B130), and matcha lattes (B75) with flair. Inside, the cafe sports a chilled out retro vibe with light-accented wood furniture and comfy chairs. Serious about sustainability, they use biodegradable cups and offer a discount for bringing your own.

open before 8am

Landhaus Bakery

1058/104 Phahon Yothin Rd., 080-071-2123. Mon-Fri 7:00am-3:30pm; Sat-Sun 7:30am-3:30pm

Behind the Bar

Sarnies Roastery

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2022

SIAM - CHIDLOM SARNIES ROASTERY

BKK BAGEL

Sarnies has been rolling roughshod over Bangkok’s coffee scene since 2019, and their 2021 Sarnies Roastery on Soi Tonson is open for breakfast in a sun-dappled, cafe-like atmosphere. Sure, there’s an all-day brekkie with avocado toast (350) and Turkish eggs (320). But, come on, it’s Sarnies. You want the Pimp my Breakfast: choose your own bread, spread, jam, meat, and veg and get breakfasting.

You’d be hard pressed to find a better bagel in Bangkok: quality ingredients, good bagels, and a fun menu. Have your choice of a dozen bagel types (B50) and schmear (B50), but for us the best brekkie choice is the Breakfast Epic with Bacon (B215) with a choice of gruyere, gouda, or cheddar. For something a little more fulsome, try the Lock, Stock, and Bagel (B250) which features house-cured salmon.

34 1 Soi Ton Son, 02-003-7592. Open daily 7am-10pm.

518 Maneeya Center, 3 Phloenchit Rd., 02254-8157. Open daily 7am-5pm.

BROOKLYN BAKER

THE FLOUR SHOPPE

Found in the sois east of Lumpini, this singular dine-in gem opens for the breakfast crowd who want their morning meal on a quiet street. There is, of course, the American Breakfast (pancakes, bacon, sausages, and eggs, B250) but try the increasingly popular shakshuka (B240) or the Baker rice bowl (B210), a spicy chicken salad topped with a fried egg. To drink, try the Cafe Club Con Miel (B100)—coffee with honey and cinnamon.

It’s hard not to get hungry shopping with the great and the good in Central Foodhall, but if you want to sit down, the Flour Shoppe breakfast includes your standard rise-and-shine staples and a few surprises. A treat here is the breakfast biscuit with bacon, egg, and cheese (B180), and you can have an English muffin instead if you’re opposed to the crumble. For something a little more filling there’s the steak and eggs (B650) and the eggs benny with smoked salmon (B290).

Polo 3 Alley, 081-855-7090. Open Thursday-Monday 9am-5pm.

SIRI HOUSE (LUKA)

SAMANTAO

Siri House has quickly gained a reputation as one of the better high-end eateries north of Ploenchit, hosting a triumvirate of Quince, Jaqueline, and Luka. While the brunch gets all the attention, before the bubbly crew gets their claws in, pop around to Luka to crunch into their Raclette (290 baht), but the must-have here is the Luka Breakfast Burrito (B330).

Soi Somkid’s Samantao is an easy stop for something away from the usual cafe fare. Skip eggs and bacon for an outdoor seat, heritage coffee, and creative toast. Top of the list are the kai kratai (fried egg with toppings) (B95) and the toast with chili paste and dried shredded pork (B65). Toast and steamed bread options abound, but for your java, don’t miss the heritage black coffee with custard cream (B75).

THE COFFEE ACADEMICS Velaa shopping mall has no shortage of breakfast options. The hero at Coffee Academics is, you guessed it, the joe. For foodies, you can dig into a hearty eggs benny with Paris ham (B340) or Nori avocado toast (B280), but if you want the full experience, the Academics Breakfast (B480) features baked beans, cumberland sausage, roasted mushroom, salad, and a sunnyside egg. To start the day off sweet, the french toast with espresso caramel comes with a dollop of vanilla mascarpone (B200). Velaa Sindhorn Village Langsuan, 87 Soi Langsuan, 02-164-2500. Open daily 7am-10pm. BTS Ploenchit. (Another branch in Central World)

TEMPERED Tempered is Bangkok’s latest cacao obsessed cafe, all the dream of a passionate couple. The space on Soi Ruamrudee 2 is a renovated five-storey office featuring creative baked goods. Opt for the almond croissant (B140) with light, crispy layers oozing almond cream or the generously-sized ham and cheese croissant (B165). For a creative and very sweet start to the day, try the Not a PBJ (B215) with peanut butter, jam, and a chocolate brownie. 59 Prim Raumrudee Soi Ruamrudee 2, 092828-5444. Open daily 8am-6pm

Tempered

Central Chidlom Foodhall, 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 091-229-0764. Open daily 8am-10pm. BTS Chidlom

PLOENCHIT AND LUANGSUAN

Siri House, 2 Soi Somkid, 094-868-2639. Open daily 8am-5pm

Siri House (Luka)

Nai Lert Park Heritage Home, Wireless Rd., 097-140-5176. Open daily 7am-5pm

SIP & CO With the charm of a chic co-working space, Sip & Co is an early grab-and-go breakfast sort of space attached to the Sindhorn Midtown Hotel, with around 40 sit-down spots. The bites are mid-range and open at 6am, starting at B90 for coffee. The baked goods are fresh, and dining options range from smoothie bowls to walnut and banana pancakes (B130). 6565 Soi Langsuan, 02-796-8888. Open daily 6am-7pm

Brooklyn Baker

BKK Bagel

NANA ASOKE VEGANERIE NANA Alright, you late breakfasting Nana vegans, this one’s for you. For the all-day breakfast, we’re talking high-protein pancakes (B240), sweet banana roti (B95), and butterscotch hotcakes (B240). And, of course, there are the ubiquitous smoothie bowls. Mango Bowl (B240) is refreshing, and for something a little heartier, the Crunchy Monkey Bowl, boasts cacao, peanut butter, banana, blueberry, granola, and dark chocolate (B240) 171 Soi Sukhumvit 11, 02-123-8699. Open daily 9:30am-10pm

IWANE GOES NATURE

For the early riser, Cafe Tartine is a perennial favorite, open an hour earlier on the weekdays. It’s a family friendly, French, breezy atmosphere. The continental spread (B99) comes with coffee or juice, and you can opt for a croque monsieur (B200) or eggs Benedict (B240).

Open since 2011, Iwane Goes Nature is still knocking out healthy breakfasts in Asoke. A great spot for a lazy morning garden breakfast, the uber-fluffy pancakes are a constant favorite—try the indulgent Marron Five (B220), served with candied chestnuts and chestnut chiffon cream. Lean into the Bulletproof coffee (B130) with coconut oil and butter, said to facilitate a gradual and intense release of caffine.

65 2 Wireless Rd., 02-168-5464. Open Mon-Fri 7am-5pm; Sat-Sun 8am-5pm

14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-0350. Open daily 7:30am-11:30pm

CAFE TARTINE

HEMINGWAY BANGKOK It’s a bar with good wings and a party vibe, but it also does a brekkie now. In addition to pancakes and waffles (starting at B280) and smoothie bowls (starting at B290), Hemingway features a standard Hemingway Big Breakfast (B390) and a Hemingway Garden Breakfast for the veggies. If you’re tired of the standard breakfast food, hit up the baked shakshuka eggs (B320) or the huevos rancheros (B340). Soi Sukhumvit 11, 02-653-3900. Open daily 9am-midnight

BLARNEY STONE If you’re on Soi 4 at 8am then it might be time to start rethinking your life choices. Still, there is a proper full Irish breakfast (B360) to be had. You’ll get eggs, bacon, pork sausage, mushrooms, black pudding, tomato, fried potato, and baked beans. If you’re not that hungry, they’ve also got the Flying Start with eggs, bacon, and sausage (B119) or a stack of fluffy pancakes (B220). 21, 1 Sukhumvit 4 Alley, 02-003-9499. Open daily 8am-midnight

GIGI CAFE One of the newest on this list, open just a few months ago, this is the “little sister” version of the popular Gigi Dining Hall and Bar. For breakfast, the cafe offers a range of fresh croissants from vanilla cream (B120) to speck and scamorza (B160). If your breakfast turns to brunch, one of the more interesting dishes will be the salmon pancakes (B410), ricotta pancakes topped with home-smoked salmon, burrata, and salmon roe. 28 Soi Sukhumvit 19, 061-995-6060. Open daily 8am-midnight

cover | best of brekkie

PHROM PHONG CHU

EL MERCADO CALLE 35

The new location is better and bigger, including an outdoor yard for kids and dogs to run around. You don’t get many places in Bangkok brave enough to serve chicken and waffles, but Chu is one, try them with whipped butter and topped with bourbon-spiced honey (B300). Not your cup of tea? Try the Egg White Frittata (B320) that comes with smoked salmon, mozzarella, cherry tomato, balsamic onion, and rocket. Coffee starts at B90 for an espresso or B120 for a flat white.

Known for its mile-long lists of seafood, charcuterie, and French desserts, El Mercado in Phrom Phong brings a cozy cafe vibe rather than the busy French restaurant feel at their old location. Hidden on the small road right next to EmQuartier, this cafe-slash-grocer has all your artisanal needs covered. If you’re eating in, you can have everything from bacon quiche (B149) to Mountain Crepe, a savory crepe filled with Raclette cheese, speck ham, and potato (B199). There’s also a range of El Mercado jars stuffed with homemade tomato sauce (B129), house kimchi (B259), and more.

18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 091-545-4847. Open Wed-Sun 6am-7pm; Mon 6am-7pm

BREAKFAST STORY American breakfast dreams come true at this homey, intimate all-day-dining spot perched above a craft beer bar. Let the tantalizing scents from the open kitchen guide you through their extensive line-up of morning classics, like buttery pancakes drenched with maple syrup (B250 for full stack); three egg-omelets loaded with cheese (B260), Classic Canadian Poutine (B260); or a slice of New York Cheesecake (B140), and all day self-serve American drip coffee (B90)—all available until late. 2/F, Hair of the Dog, 593/27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1461. Open daily 7am-11pm

15/8 M Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 35, 02-011-1712. Open daily 8:30am-10:30pm

BRAINWAKE This all-day breakfast spot is definitely underrated, serving higher quality bites than their prices. Whatever you want for breakfast— whether it’s a full greasy breakfast for your hangover (Brainwake Big Breakfast, B400), or a comforting Thai choice like khao tom (B155). Coffee starts at as little as B55 baht for an espresso, but we really love their Piccolo Latte (B65). Don’t forget to try their homemade baked goods or gelato—that’s not on the menu. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-005-0026. Open daily 7am-6pm

AROON CAFE Half furniture showroom, half cafe, Aroon’s owner is the third generation of a furniture-making family, so his cafe is decorated with his own brand. If you like what you see, buy it. But it’s not just the furniture, try their signature coffee creations, like the Lanna Tonic Espresso (B135) that mixes blended coffee with tonic water and longan syrup, or the Aroon Sunrise (B145), an affogato that uses Thai tea ice cream. For something to fill your stomach, have the cruffin, a croissant and muffin, (B145).

THONGLOR BARTELS

PLEARNWAN PANICH

Bartels has people queuing up for its freshbaked sourdough bread. Opened by a Scandinavian baker, the bakery has an airy, minimalist Nordic feel. Stop by for sourdough loaves (B250), baguettes (B100), and breakfast rolls (B50), as well as cafe favorites like the Blue Heaven, a smoothie bowl that consists of blue spirulina, banana, pineapple, and mango (B250). Heartier bites include the sweet ham and brie baguette sandwich (B200) and the open-faced Pestocado (B250), packed with pesto, avocado, cucumber, tomato, and kalamata olives .

Popular Hua Hin shopping center Plearnwan came to Bangkok with Plearnwan Panich. The vintage and industrial hints courtesy of galvanized steel and reclaimed wood don’t detract from a pretty polished feel overall. The food is old-school: Thai snacks and breakfast bites such as khai luak (half boiled egg, B40), steamed bread with egg custard (B60), or roast duck in a bun (B110).

760/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 061-745-2121. Open daily 7am-6pm

OKONOMI For a distinctly Japanese brekkie, hit the twofloor Okonomi. There are two types of ichiju sansai options (B550 each): Misozuke Hamachi, featuring miso-marinated hamachi (amberjack), and Konbujime Madai, with red seabream in a seaweed marinade. Each comes with a soup, pickled vegetables, rice, and tamago (Japanese omelet). To drink, choose from a selection of tea-based drinks, like a hot matcha latte (B140) made with Uji green tea or an iced hojicha latte (B140), as well as unique riffs like the kuromitsu macchiato (B140), made with black sugar syrup. Cashless payment only. 2/F, Hair of the Dog, 593/27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1461. Open daily 7am-11pm

ROAST Roast remains high on most brunch-goers’ checklists, which means that, come the weekend you can face some crazy queues. It’s with good reason, too. On top of the great coffee (starting at B80 for an espresso), the menu packs genuine crowd-pleasers like the Crab Cake Benedict (B360) and smoked salmon with rosti matched with lemon creme fraiche (B320).

Sukhumvit Rd. (top of Sukhumvit Soi 28), 062-126-4025. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am5:30pm; Sat-Sun 8:30am-6:30pm

The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185-2865. Open Mon-Thu 10am-8:30pm; Fri-Sat 9am11pm; Sun 9am-8:30pm

FAT BRO MOO PING Toby’s

Moo ping and sticky rice are a common Thai breakfast, and for over 30 years Fat Bro’s stall has been making lines around Silom late into the night, but now you can also grab these meat-on-sticks in Thonglor during the day time. On top of his original moo ping (B15 per stick), he has expanded his selection to beef (B28 per stick), chicken (B18 per stick), and chicken liver (B18 per stick). Don’t forget to grab the sticky rice (B10), too. The Fox Thonglor, 209 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 092-886-2121. Open daily, 24 hours

TANG MENG

H Dining

Get off at BTS Thonglor, and walk past Broccoli Revolution to a family-run shophouse that sells the slightly unusual combination of khao mun gai and noodles. The proprietor—a woman known as Auntie Kim, who’s usually found sitting in the corridor overlooking the business—notes that her family has been feeding people for over 60 years. The must-try dishes are yentafo (B50), khao mun gai (B50), and longan juice (B15). 887 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-7202. Open Mon-Sat 8am-5pm

Plearnwan Panich, Thonglor Soi 13, 084-541-4565. Open daily 6am-7pm

H DINING From the same owners of the minimalist, Hands and Heart coffee shop comes H Dining. The kitchen is overseen by young chef Kanta “Toiting” Siddidharm, who has a CV packed with stints at fine-dining stalwarts like Gaa, 80/20, and Noma. Considering her background, the food is a mix of Thai and Nordic touches. Heartier dishes include the pork sandwich and kimchi (B260) and burnt onion pasta (B320) with miso sauce and pickled mushrooms. For coffee, try their filter of the day (B160). 4 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-058-2699. Open daily 8am-10pm

NINE PASTRY Located in a standalone house in the heart of Sukhumvit Soi 24, Nine Pastry specializes in sourdough and pastries with Mediterranean influences. Baker-slash-owner Nir Netzer spent over two years baking and experimenting in his home kitchen to come up with an extensive line of vegan-friendly sourdough loaves, like the classic (B200), multiseed (B220), and olives and herbs (B220). The result is a natural and earthy flavor with a moist texture and crisp crust. You can also grab sweets like tahini cookies (B350/10 pieces) or chocolate fudge and sea salt cookies (B350/10 pieces). 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-712-1774. Open daily 9am-5pm

NICO NICO There are countless cafes in Thonglor but this cute, new Japanese spot is impressive. Nico Nico in Japanese means “a smile”, and this cafe serves food that will make you do just that. Decorated in a mix of Japanese and Scandinavian, you’ll find fusion comfort breakfast dishes like curry scrambled eggs (B260) with soft bacon and homemade bread. For something lighter, try their wasabi crab toast (B260) combining chunks of crab meat with wasabi mayo. Try their Signature No.1 (B110), an espresso shot made with beans from Chiang Mai mixed with icy cold milk. 555 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 19 and 21), 097-054-6827. Open daily 8am-6pm

TOBY’S This mid-2015 opening is one of Bangkok’s very best brunch spots. Crowds pack out the airy, sun-drenched spot for flat whites (B100), cold-pressed juices (B180), and egg-centric fare, all prepped with good produce and an eye for detail. Try the Egg Mikado (B320), sourdough topped with two poached eggs, cured salmon, and yellow hollandaise sauce. Pro tip: if you don’t want to be hangry, avoid weekend mornings as they tend to get pretty crowded. 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-712-1774. Open daily 9am-5pm

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2022

SATHORN AND SILOM

Pridi

AKART’S DAY

NOT JUST ANOTHER CUP

Breathing new life into the well-preserved 90-year-old wooden house once owned by Coffee Craftsman, this open-early cafe is all about highly-caffeinated specialties like Happy Day (B200) coffee with candle-smoked coconut milk, along with the Super Star All-day Breakfast, which sees homemade toast with ham and cheese served alongside sausages and vegetables (B350).

This airy, two-storey restaurant serves wonderfully comforting combinations of egg-focused dishes, decorously poured coffee, and fresh cold-pressed juice in a daytime-friendly dining room. Try their Moroccan-style egg skillet with richly spiced tomato sauce accompanied by some deliciously fluffy bread for dunking (B320).

Yarden, 30 Yen Akart Rd., 02-249-0182. Open daily 7am-7pm

TUANG DIM SUM

Kaizen Coffee

At first glance, this cramped Chinese spot in Nanglinchee may not look like much, but once you see all the awards and certificates hanging around the walls, you’ll realize you’ve come across one of the city’s proper dining gems. Hong Kong-born chef Yip brings a ton of experience and expertise from his days at Shangri-La Bangkok’s Shang Palace and serves his shumai and xiao long pao piping hot each day. Long queues are typical for Tuan, but they run fast. 2029/9 Charoenkrung Rd., 089-603-0908. Open Wed-Sun 6am-3pm (subject to availability.)

Not Just Another Cup

On Lok Yun

EKKAMAI KAIZEN COFFEE Ekkamai’s white-flushed home of Melbourne-style coffee culture relocated just up the road from its former home in Tai Ping Tower. Now with its very own standalone spot, the white decor and scientific coffee prep remains— try Single Origin of the Day (B150)—but cakes and pastries are now all made in-house. Cure your hangover with their Home Full Breakfast (B360) that comes with scrambled eggs, feta, grilled mushroom and bacon, baby cos, tomato, and avocado. 6-7/888 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 098-831-6009. Open daily 7:30am-4:30pm

CONKEY’S BAKERY Australian Michael Conkey’s farmers’ market favorite turned hidden Ekkamai enclave is the perfect spot to start your day with a daily-baked crusty baguette (B120) or buttery brioche (B380). What sets the place apart from your Amantees and your Maison Jean Phillipes, however, are unbeatable Aussie staples like sausage rolls (B120) and meat pies (B180). We’re also partial to the plump meatballs (B180/4pcs)— perfect for sandwiching between a ciabatta (B160). Keep an eye out for recurring picnics. 72 Ekamai Soi 22, 083-040-5911. Open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm

PRIDI This new cafe took over an old house with a stone backyard in Pridi Banomyong Soi 25, turning it into a homey eat-and-chill space. Of course, with such a beautiful space comes a lot of Instagramers. However, the food and coffee here are actually pretty decent, unlike some other Instagram cafes we could mention. An iced Americano will set you back B100. Our favorite, chicken liver pate (B165), comes with cream cheese, strawberry jam, and sourdough. 155 Pridi Banomyong Soi 25, 065-098-8974. Open Mon-Wed 8:30am-5:30pm; Fri-Sun 8:30am-5:30pm

75/1 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3464. Open daily 7am-6pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

TOKYO ROASTER The name has nothing to do with the capital of Japan; this latest cafe is all about putting a new spin to Thai street snacks. The place rolls out khanom tokyo (a flat thin pancake rolled and stuffed with varieties of fillings) and fills them with unusually surprising combinations—think salmon and truffle cream (B105)—while the standard flavors like Thai custard cream and pandan cream run B60. Pair them with dirty (B90) or yuzu espresso (B150) to get your day going. Yen Jit Soi 8. Thung Wat Don. Tel. 063-6155283. Open daily 8.00-18.00

OLD TOWN CHAROENKRUNG PUNJAB SWEET

ON LOK YUN

Tired of our typical breakfasts? This Indian coffee shop in Phahurat is a fresh change of pace. There’s no resisting the mouth watering array of sweets on display. Order a bite of barfi (B15) while sipping freshly brewed chai tea (B15). If you have more room for breakfast, try their spiced paneer dosa (B100), which comes crispy and packed with Indian spice flavors.

For those wanting something a little more old-school to start their day, this cafe is at least eight decades young—still counting and going strong. Diehard fans come for its kanom pang sankaya (bread with Thai style egg custard B28) and Thai-style American breakfast (B65) with two eggs. Go for the grub, stay for the history. Coffee starts at B35.

Chakkraphat Rd., 02-222-6541. Open daily 8:30am-6pm

72 Charoen Krung Rd, 085-809-0835. Open daily 6am-2:30pm

CHUTIE IS BAKING

RUE DE MANSRI

Set inside a renovated 60-year-old jewerly’s shophouse is Charoenkrung’s latest sweet tooth treasure trove. Open a little late for most breakfasters, inside, you’ll find Chutima “Ae” Bovonratanachote from much-loved cafe Sweet Pista baking spellbinding treats like fruit parfaits and tartlets. The highlight, however, is her lemon posset (B165), arriving in a half sliced lemon served with crispy shortbread, a nod to her baking lab’s theme.

A 130-year-old former tram station close to the Golden Mount has found second life as a charming hideaway. Part vintage cafe and part photography studio, Rue De Mansri serves its signature iced marocchino (B85), an indulgent mix of chocolate, milk, and espresso, or a refreshing Black Coco Mint (B80). Order freshly baked pastries to pair up with your drinks— think ham and cheese or almond croissant (B45) made using dough sourced from Chiang Mai’s enduringly popular Nana Jungle.

1107/2, Charoenkrung Rd., Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm

CRAFTSMAN ROASTERY A 127-year-old European-style building in the old quarter that once printed the Royal Gazette opened its doors as a cafe, serving both quality coffee and cocktails. Netnapa’s team have taken over the building to serve caffeinated drinks with highlights including Mocha Yuzu (B150), Dirty (B125), and spiced latte (B145) using beans grown at home and abroad and roasted in-house. To go with the drinks, the cafe makes a walnut pie (B135), creamy chicken pie (B150), and banana cake (B135). Bumrungnukulkit Printing House. Bamrungmuang Rd., 085-820-4010. Open daily 7:30am-6pm

417 Bamrung Mueang Rd., 083-158-9999. Open Tue-Sun 8am-4:30pm

KOKOPAN There’s something comforting about the level of effortless minimalism in this Japanese cafe. Roughly translated as “bread is here,” Kokopan promises a calming cream and wood escape from Sathorn’s bustling streets. Try the kinako (roasted soybean flour) toast with Japanese black honey syrup and vanilla ice cream, paired with yuzu citrus coffee, or get the homemade mini-croissants toasted at your table. 118 Soi Chula 8, Room, 923 A, 095-654-4560. Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9am-5pm

feature | last call

Bangkok suffering a shortage of restaurant and bar workers Scrolling through your social media, you may have come across posts or ads by your favorite bars or restaurants with job openings. Keep scrolling. You’ll see more. Ever since the food and beverage scene came roaring back to life after the COVID lockdowns, venues have been having difficulty finding staff.

UNDERVALUED FROM THE START Even before the pandemic, it wasn’t always easy to find staff for restaurants and bars. A facet of deeply-rooted inequality, service personnel are rarely valued. “In other countries, this kind of job is respected by society. It’s just another career choice, a job that pays well enough to support the workers and their families,” says Chennarong “Janz” Bhumichitr, founder of Mahaniyom bar. There are currently at least two job openings at Mahaniyom. “But in Thailand, bartenders are looked down as mere mixers. Some people don’t see bartenders as mixologists or anything. They see bartenders as ‘waiters’.”

THE FOCUS IS ALWAYS ON FOOD, NEVER THE DRINKS Thailand’s laws are unofficially based on religious strictures. Alcohol is a sin. Alcohol is a problem. When something bad happens, booze gets the blame. A public service announcement from over a decade ago preaches that alcohol is for the poor and the stressed. Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana, the beverage director of Watermelon Group (owners of Rabbit Hole, Canvas, Bar Marco, Crimson Room) tells BK Magazine that, “the government doesn’t really see the value of the people who work in this industry. [The government] is so backward.” Palm’s establishments currently have four job openings at four different outlets, and he has been looking for more people to join the team for four to five months. Thailand’s alcohol laws are strict. Neither bar owners nor patrons can post photos of alcohol online, nor are businesses allowed to advertize alcohol. “If you only keep supporting the food scene but not the drinking scene, it doesn’t create a culture,” says Janz. “These two things go hand in hand. Cocktails are liquid art and these professionals are the front door greeters to our country.” “The moment anything goes wrong with Thailand, the first thing [the government] do is to close the bars,” says Pongcharn “Top” Russell, the chef partner at Mia Restaurant. He has been looking for new staff for his restaurant for the past six months now. “They don’t realize how much of a livelihood it is to the country. So, I’m not surprised if people don’t want anything to do with a bartending career. They play with people’s lives.”

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2022

NOT ENOUGH TRAINING CENTERS When society, country, and government don’t value service people, young people don’t grow up dreaming of bar work. Few schools or universities groom students for the service industry, and the training programs that do exist are out of date.

Pongcharn “Top” Russell

“The pool of these professionals is already quite small to begin with, there’s never really enough training,” Chef Top says. “On top of that, the rate of new businesses opening also means there are not enough new young gen for the market.”

Mahaniyom

To have a team that’s up to the standard, many of Bangkok’s F&B establishments end up training their own staff. “At Mahaniyom, we always recruit people with no experience and we train them ourselves,” says Janz. “The other owners and I always make sure to interview people for the job ourselves, because we need to check their attitude, mindset, and passions. For the skills part, we can train them with no problem.” Over at Chinatown’s Soi Nana, Niks Anuman-Rajadhon—the boss of Teens of Thailand, Asia Today, Tax, Black King, and Independence Bar—has the same process and requirements. He is looking to hire 20 more staff by this year for new openings around Thailand.

Teens of Thailand

“The industry is going through a shortage in staff for sure, because the pool was not big to begin with,” says Niks.

Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana

Bar Marco

THEN COVID MADE IT WORSE Covid happened all over the world, but the Thai government’s handling of the pandemic left workers in the restaurant and bar industry insecure. The authorities shuttered restaurants and bars, with restaurants forced to delivery services and new regulations prevented the sale of alcohol online. “COVID happened, causing that pool to be even smaller,” Chef Top adds.

Chennarong “Janz” Bhumichitr

Receiving little to no support from the authorities, F&B industry professionals left to pursue more stable interests. More than three million jobs were lost in the hospitality and tourism sector in Thailand since the pandemic began. The Ministry of Tourism and Sport alleges 6.27 million people in Thailand were employed in the hospitality and tourism industry in 2019, falling to 3.34 in 2021, before the onset of the delta variant. Palm tells BK Magazine that back in the day when he would advertize for job openings applicants would rush to apply, even if the money wasn’t that much.

Niks Anuman-Rajadhon

“But people don’t see their future in this industry anymore, even if there’s more money now, because people still think, ‘What if the government orders bars and restaurants to close again?’”

food & drink | news

Khaosan gets cooler with this new underwater-themed bar UNDER THE SEA

Bar Darn is the latest addition to the backpackercentric Khaosan Road. Located in the same hub as Mischa Cheap (another bar on Khaosan Road, by the Dudesweet crew, formerly in Ari), Bar Darn is found below Tropical Galaxy. Signature cocktails here are underwater themed. Try the Deep Dive (B290), a mix of Regency, coconut rum, squid ink, and lemon soda for something strong and refreshing (and it will turn your lips black). For something colorful and easy to drink, grab Coral (B260) a mix of white rum, watermelon, lychee jelly, vanilla, elderflower, and coral tuile. To help with that next-morning hangover, try the Samui (B260): tequila, coconut rum, coconut milk, coconut water, and pineapple topped with crispy coconut.

BIBENDUM GOES NORTH

ALL SHOOK UP

DON’T GET LOST

Who will make it to Michelin in Isaan?

Pretenders beware: Shake Shack is coming

The Fat Cow mooo-ves to a nearby location

Michelin announced it would extend its reach to Thailand’s northeast as part of its upcoming sixth edition guide for 2023. The Michelin Guide’s arrival in Isaan will feature four new city destinations, including Nakhon Ratchasima, Ubonratchathani, Khon Kaen, and Udonthani. The first shooting Michelin stars to land in Thailand were awarded in 2017, and the guide has extended to Phuket, Chiang Mai, Phang-nga, and Ayutthaya. The dining kingmakers have yet to give any clue as to which eateries will feature on their vaunted list.

The battle of the burger heats up as Shake Shack announced that the brand will be arriving in Thailand by 2023. Maxim’s Caterers are behind the chain’s arrival in Thailand, and they don’t plan to open just one outlet. The chain hopes to open 15 Shacks across the Kingdom by 2032. First opened in 2004 in NYC’s Madison Square Park, Shake Shack is known for its freshmade Angus beef burgers, crunchy crinkle cut fries, and hand-spun milkshakes. This raises questions, however, about a certain burger joint whose logo and menu are eerily similar to Shake Shack. What will Shake Shack do with the pretender on the throne?

Ladprao’s craft beer and burger staple is moving to a new location at the end of April, but don’t worry, it’s just around the corner. The new location will still be located on Ladprao Soi 15, just opposite the current location. It will be much bigger—more room for you craft beer lovers out there. The burger joint closed down for just a few days before opening up again on May 5. The Fat Cow burger (B290) is a must try at this burger barn, and don’t forget to get a fresh craft brew from their new and improved beer fridge.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2022

Bangkok’s historic Muay Thai stadium gets a cocktail upgrade

JUNGLE JUICE

Khao Yai just got a craft beer upgrade Craft beer importer Smiling Mad Dog has opened a craft beer bar, Taproom Vacation, at Midwinter Khao Yai, carrying 10 different beers on 20 taps plus more in the fridges—all in the trendy adventure playground to the north. On the tap, you’ll find To Ol (B300) from Denmark, currently ranked second best craft beer in Europe and ninth best craft beer in the world. Beerlao draft (B200), which tastes very different—in a good way—to the bottled version. Food is what you’d expect from a beer bar: fried chicken wings (B300) and smokey BBQ ribs (B500). We especially love the Punk IPA-batter fried calamari (B300) and grilled mixed sausages served with pickled cucumber (B450). In Bangkok, you can visit Taproom at The Commons Saladaeng and Ladphrao. GET SPICY

A hot time in the old town tonight If you’re an uncompromising Isaan flavor fanatic for this spicy restaurant, then here’s some good news: Phed Phed is coming to Central Chidlom—soon. Though there’s no official opening date yet, the restaurant has teased us with its new concept: “Phed Phed Pop”—bringing the most “pop” (as in popular) Isaan dishes to its new branch. For those in the know, Phed Phed is all about the spice. Owners Nattaphong Saehu and Nuthakorn Jivarungsinee hail from Nakhon Phanom and they bring the heat.

BOX-TAILS

Rajadamnern Boxing Stadium is getting a little more interesting with Isaan cocktails from one of Bangkok’s best bars. Soi Nana’s Asia Today, ranked 43 on Asia’s Best Bars, became the first cocktail bar operating inside the boxing stadium, taking over from the cheap beer monopoly at Muay Thai. Try the Isaan Coco (B200), which is just Isaan Rum with fresh coconut juice or the Isaan Sour (B220). The pop-up bar will open every Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday in May at Rajadamnern Boxing Stadium, a historic venue that goes all the way back to Muay Thai battles in 1945.

food & drink | new & noted

Taan

Samlor

NEW AND NOTED

The Teens of Thailand team is at it again with Independence

Taan has finally made New elevated Thai a comeback with drinking bites at this soulful Thai dishes Charoenkrung joint

The team behind Teens of Thailand, Asia Today, Tax, and Black King Bar has introduced another bar to Soi Nana: Independence Bar. Forget the typical fancy cocktais, at Independence you’ll feel like you’re drinking in an abandoned building with graffiti-covered walls—a dark, grungy vibe with an unfinished feel. Independence is all about the wines: traditional, natural, fortified, vermouth, and of course, wine-based cocktails. Yes, we know “wines” sounds a little intimidating, but Independence Bar’s goal is to offer an uncomplicated, easy-going drinking experience. Stay tuned for their signature cocktails menu.

After months of closure, this sky-high restaurant is back. Chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp is reconnecting with local farmers and suppliers to create his Prode concept, roughly translated as “favorite” in Thai. Across the nine-course dining experience (B2,890++), expect soulful dishes like pla bu, deep fried goby fish with crispy scales intact served alongside roasted bamboo and yanang leaves in mushroom sauce; golae talay with a seafood twist; and run juan, Thai shrimp paste reinvented as soup with French consomme.

687 Maitri Chit Rd, Pom Prap, 084-005-2298

865 Rama I Rd, Wang Mai, 25/F, Siam Design Hotel, 065-328-7374 Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 20% discount on food and non-alcoholic beverages And Get a complimentary drink (1 bottle) valued THB 2,000 on birthday month (limit 1 bottle /card /table /sales slip) 1 Jan – 31 Dec ’22

Samlor—the new venture by chef power couple Napol “Joe” Jantraget and Saki Hoshino—wants to bring you Thai gap glaem (drinking food) in their own way. Launching May 18, the new menu at Samlor will showcase Thai traditional comfort dishes in an elevated way—but not pretentious. The menu reads like you might as well be eating at Thonglor’s Saengchai Pochana, but when you clap eyes on the dishes, you’ll know they’re not the same. Chefs Napol and Hoshino want to move away from their formal reputation at 80/20. At Samlor, it’s fun, comfy, and casual. The ultimate Thai drinking food ordered on every table is the goong chae nampla (B380)—Thai-style prawn ceviche. 1076 Charoenkrung Rd. (on the corner of Si Phraya Rd.)

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY,MAY 27 2022

Gigi Cafe

TABLE TALK

Hemingway serves up a new Smokehouse menu with big ideas

Gigi Dining Hall and Bar’s ‘little sister’ open in Asoke

This new burger joint just wants to serve affordable, tasty burgers

Hemingway Bangkok’s new soft launch menu is big, smokey, meaty treats. The undoubted star of the new menu is the frankly insane burger. Weighing in at a whopping B1,590, the Big Boi BBQ Burger is two US beef patties, 500g of hickory-smoked Aussie beef short rib, pulled pork, Monterey Jack cheese, bacon, onion rings, relish, and bourbon burger sauce. It is, put mildly, way over the top—but who cares? There’s also new baby back pork ribs (B990), short ribs (B990), and for something even bigger than the burger, there’s the Hemingway’s Smoked Combo Platter (B2,490). Adding to their offerings is a new breakfast menu as well.

You know their bites on Sukhumvit Soi 45 at Gigi Dining Hall & Bar, now comes the smooth new Gigi Cafe in Asoke. Officially opening in March 2022, Gigi Cafe features casual Italian dining with pizza and pasta, and health nuts will find gluten-free pasta and vegan dishes. Menus are curated by Edoardo Bonavolta, and diners will find the venue open for breakfast at 8am and running until midnight, closed on Tuesday. After the 15th of May, Gigi Cafe will be open every day of the week and will begin featuring their aperitivo menu. Gigi Cafe comes courtesy of the minds behind some of Bangkok’s coolest club venues, including Sing Sing Theater and Iron Balls.

Soi Sukhumvit 11, Khlong Toei Nuea, 02-653-3900

28 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Khlong Tan Nuea, 061-995-6060

Madbunsburger is the latest addition to Bangkok’s burger craze, the creation of Bye Wongchindawest—of Fatboy Sushi, Kim Jeong Grill, Mod Kaew Wine Bar, and The Deck Bangkok—and Thomas Phochanasrichai, who you’ll find helping you decided what to drink at Mod Kaew Wine Bar. Instead of a chunky stack covered in dripping sauce, Madbunsburger serves simple, quality burgers in a size that you can probably eat two at a time. One burger will set you back at B119, but for B249 you can go for a Mad Burger Set that comes with two burgers of your choice and a pick of curly or waffle fries. Right now, they are available for online order via Grab, Robinhood and Line Man, but stay tuned for the shop soon. For now, they’re delivery only.

SARNIES SOURDOUGH 55/14 Charoen Krung Soi 42/1, 02-550-6107. Open daily 8am-10pm Sarnies Sourdough boasts a menu filled with pastries, indulgent toasties, and sourdough loaves baked fresh daily. The bakery by day turns into a sourdough pizzeria at night featuring Neapolitan and Detroit-style pizzas. Two highlights include the Thai-style tom kha pizza (local prawns with tom kha-style coconut bechamel) and on the Detroit side check out the hot honey garlic (tomato sauce base, chili-infused Chiang Mai honey, and smothering of rich cheeses).

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food and non-alcoholic beverages when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip (excluding canned, bottled, Slow Bar, alcoholic beverages and other products)

1 Jan – 31 Dec ’22

feature | lifelong learning

This Bangkok IT club is helping the elderly combat loneliness and depression Cognitive decline is one of the cruelest side effects of getting older. This small IT group prescribes what seniors need most: friends and laughter. By Porpor Leelasestaporn When the internet was still new in Thailand twenty years ago, Suteera “Jiap” Chamlongsupalak held workshops to help people understand their home and office routers. That was her job as an instructor at CS Loxinfo, one of Thailand’s very first internet providers. Most people were clueless about these new modems, and her workshops welcomed students of all ages. Jiap was well-versed in the then-modern tool from her MA in Training and Development at the University of Wisconsin. Among her keen students was CS Loxinfo’s CEO, Chatchanee Chatikavanij herself, who wanted Jiap to devise a class for her—a class not for children or students but for her friends around the age of 70. “We learned that none of her friends could understand the lessons. Most of them were sitting there for six hours doing nothing as they couldn’t keep pace with the younger students,” Jiap recalls. “It was like we entirely skipped the most important step to help them use the device properly. Some of them didn’t even know how to turn on the computer.” After noticing the glaring errors in her instruction, Jiap took several months to revise her lesson plans, and the key to all this, Jiap tells BK Magazine, is to embrace her students for who they really are. “Teaching older people requires more than just patience. We need to understand their learning styles and not be too quick to assume what works or doesn’t work for them.” Using computers wasn’t as easy then as it is now, Jiap explains, and the complex, unfriendly interfaces posed an extra challenge for these older students with young hearts. “Something that may sound common to you, like moving the mouse cursor, could take them three hours to accomplish. One second, you will see them lifting the mouse off the desk completely, and the next you’ll see them steering the mouse off the desk’s edge.” As an educator, Jiap knew bigger classes meant she couldn’t spread her attention to all of her students. Jiap shrank the size of the workshop, and two other teaching assistants stepped in to lend their eyes and ears. The session hours were also cut down to digestible sizes to match their needs. This pilot class held in 2000 would become the face of what’s known as OPPY (Old People Playing Young) Club today. The courses, which started off as basic email, now cover over 60 skills, ranging from basic photography and ordering food online to professional modules like video editing and filmmaking. In the last two decades, the club has provided services to more than 5,000 members and counting. The secret ingredient to OPPY’s success, however, has little to do with their training. Just like any other pedagogical strategy, Jiap views teaching older adults the same as any other age group: They all learn better without stress.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2022

Instead of relying on memorization and reprimanding them when they fail, OPPY courses involve activities to promote conceptual understanding of the tools. Each course is designed to form a thread of understanding, and by connecting those threads, it facilitates learning. “The last thing we would do here at OPPY is to have them to remember our lessons,” Jiap says, pointing out how most of the members may have already been under the pressure of being taught the same thing by their children at home. “So we always assure them they don’t need to memorize anything. Each course will hand out specific manuals containing infographic diagrams for them to follow, so they won’t miss anything even if they do.”

Suteera “Jiap” Chamlongsupalak

With her 22 years of service as head principal, Jiap says the school’s priority may not be all about learning. “It’s about maintaining purpose and meaning in life through having good company,” she explains. “Learning is just an added benefit; it provides both excuses and opportunities for our members to escape from the confinement of their home and foster meaningful connections and have real conversations with other people of their own age. As long as they can have a good laugh, our goals are completed. And sometimes this laughter can act like a medicine.” Yongyuth Napasab, a 94-year-old frequent member of OPPY, paid several visits and attended almost every class held at OPPY. His vitality caught the attention of medical groups and Mahidol University where he would give inspirational speeches to elderly-care focused forums with OPPY. During the lockdown, however, Yongyuth became emotionally withdrawn. His family told the club that he stopped interacting with people almost completely and just returned to daily naps. When the school could operate normally in February 2022, his family took Yongyuth to attend the classes at OPPY Club again. “It took months before he could open up to us again, but we just held his 94th birthday party here at our club,” Jiap says. Another case, Jiap tells BK Magazine, is an unnamed woman who suffered from a stroke. She was one of the club’s regular members, but suddenly disappeared. OPPY paid a visit to her home address and learned of her condition.

“We met her while she was rehabilitating at a private hospital. At the time she had to use her cane to help her balance. As we didn’t want to let her plunge into inactivity, we invited her to come and play with us and her fellow club members.” Within three months, she showed signs of recovering—something Jiap believes to be the result of classroom stimulation. The woman could use more of her right side and is now a big fan of Tik Tok culture. When asked about the efficiency of OPPY’s activities, Jiap says these engaging activities can help to some extent but also need to be under strict supervision. “If we place too much focus on technology, we can also overwhelm the online-life balance. And some of our members can also be prone to game addiction, which may pose a detriment to their health.” To combat this, Jiap and the team have devised classes where senior students can put their phones, including a painting class to enrich their creativity and help them gain confidence in expressing their thoughts and feelings. And above all, it’s designed to help them focus with the now. “One of our club members quit because he felt overwhelmed by the courses focusing on technology,” Jiap tells BK Magazine. “When he learned of our new painting courses, he was willing to give another try. After several courses, he told us that the doctor saw major improvements in his concentration and wanted him to continue.” On a visit on May 10, 2022, BK Magazine took a seat in one of the workshops to see how they really worked. Shouting and laughter echoed through OPPY’s halls. Some students competed for Kru Jiap’s attention; some helped classmates who couldn’t keep pace. Some pranked the TAs by taking photos and editing their portraits. But one thing is for sure, senior or not, they were all just students enjoying life. One student humorously remarked that one attentive student should become the new class representative. “Maybe I will, in my 90s,” she said.

feature | samut

Phuket fine-dining restaurant gives local seafood the celebrity treatment THITID “TON” TASSANAKAJOHN DOES IT AGAIN.

One thing we’ve become certain of over the past few years: There’s no stopping this celebrity chef and his restaurant empire. For the last three years alone, chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn has extended his culinary repertoire all over the place—both in Thailand and abroad. His latest expansion in Phuket, Samut, wants to give local Thai seafood the all-star treatment. Taking over the space from Chivitr Wellness Resort’s old lobby, Samut carries on some of the hotel’s Thai-Chinese decor, resembling Buddhist pagodas with predominantly simple, reserved wood furniture and antique-looking entrance—both of which are preserved from the original estate. Stepping outside, there are a few seats on the balcony overlooking extended staircases, perfect for the days Phuket’s gives us some mercy. Samut, meaning “ocean” in Thai, makes a commitment to bring ingredients from Thailand’s coastlines to the table. And it’s not just Phuket; chef Ton partners with Thai fishermen in Prachuap Khiri Khan, Phang Nga, Chumphon, Surat Thani, and more for the seafood delicacies at his eight-course dining experience (B2,690). We didn’t see chef Ton in person on our visit. But we did meet his head chef, Chatchawan ‘Banky’ Varahajeerakul, who oversaw our dinner in his place. “The idea is to taste all our Southern specialties in 16 dishes,” he explains. The first course arrives in four savory bites: poo ma neung (steamed blue crab with crunchy crab roe crumbles served in a passionfruit bowl), bure gon yang (Southern-style prawns with crispy polyscales leaf), prik gaeng hoy mak (Thai sweet clam dipped in fiery hot curry), and khao yam (a bite of pomelo, dried fish, and fermented fish sauce covered in pinkish torch ginger jelly) with a tartness that tingles the tongue and acts as a palate cleanser. Next was yum hoi lord, razor clam swimming in pineapple dressing served with lemon grass and green mango and topped with pineapple foam. Por pia goong, meanwhile, is reimagined from Phuket’s dim sum morning stalls, with local favorite nam chor sauce in a liquid-like gel on the top of plumb tiger prawns wrapped in rice paper. Another memorable dish was pla meuk nam dam. The staff carries a huge chunk of banana leaves and cuts them to reveal a gelatinous-looking squid inside. The squid was slow roasted in a charcoal grill and topped with squid ink; the cured egg yolks on the top help enhance all the flavors. Before the main course, the staff serve a ma muang bao sorbet made from a mango variation from Southern Thai provinces. The sorbet is garnished with large crystals of sea salt—and we would have begged for a second spoonful. The main course, which arrived in four samrub, has some hits and minor misses. Some are pleasant combinations but others are rather combative in terms of flavor. We loved pla gor lae (coral fish grilled in a coconut barbecue sauce), and the six-hour-braised murex snail was soft and fresh with its crunchy betel leaf. The skins from 7-day dry-aged wild red snapper in pla tom tao jiaw could have been crispier had it not been sitting in the fermented soy soup for so long. Our course, this all ends with tu bo Phuket’s rare sweet treat that chef Banky reimagines into an elaborate dessert: red bean ice cream served with artful drops of sweet potato puree and salted coconut cream—a sensual pleasure to the eye with unmitigated sweetness. Buffered by white sesame cake, the plate offered a stimulating interplay. Is it worth a stop? The restaurant’s commitment to Thai seafood has added a fresh momentum to Phuket’s fine-dining scene. We were told by chef Banky that they will revamp their menu for Samut soon, so you can look forward to well-earned attention for unsung Southern Thai dishes soon. 14/106 Rawai. Mueng. Phuket. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-11pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3pm.

the last word | new face

The future of Thailand is more young, new-gen forces in politics W Pasakorn “PK” Vanasirikul, 25—model, artist, and actor who majored in psychology, philosophy, and religious studies with a minor in art history—is the latest (and youngest) member of the Kla Party. He competed in a Thai TV modeling contest, The Face Men, when he was 20, represented Thailand in Faces of Asia in Korea, and starred in a few TV series. We spoke to him about his new role now as a politician at a Democrat Party spin-off led by former finance minister Korn Chatikavanij. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

hy did you leave the entertainment industry? I was unhappy. I was very young and I didn’t recognize how lucky I was. I asked myself some very difficult questions, one of them being: “is being a celebrity my only job?” I don’t regret it but I wouldn’t do it again. What inspired you to become a politician? After a long break and a lot of introspection and selfreflection, I asked myself, “Why am I still not happy?” I realized that I just wanted to be a part of the change. I want to make good changes. So, what’s the career path that has a high probability of making a change? A politician. Yea, but why? Why does a young, rich Thai model want to work for the people? Why do you care about making changes? Why not? Because I care. It’s human nature to want to help. Yes, it seems selfless, but part of it is also selfish, because I also want to be remembered.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 27, 2022

Given your resume, why should anyone take you seriously? I will simply let the work speak for itself. Academically, I’m the least qualified person, and I might be the first person in Kla Party without a PhD, but take a look at how Google hires; they hire very few academic people. Why the Kla Party? I think people are right to think that they are isolated as they are a bunch of finance people. But I think that’s what my role is in the party, to bring some reality to this party a bit. To be a voice of the young, new-gen people. I’m the youngest person in the party, but it’s needed. They need to hear this. I think [the party] needs to be a place where a young person can say to an old man in power what needs to change. What are you hoping to bring to the Kla party? I focus on the creative side of the economy. I would like to push for a niche community. Being an artist, I realize how hard it is to find work in Thailand, and we need to find a platform for artists. There needs to be infrastructure, we need a better platform for people to be creative. I hope that one day we can export creative talent like Korea. That’s my role for now, as Korn recognizes the importance of that. Considering I majored in psychology, I also want the government to recognize mental health. The youth want to go to therapy and not be judged. What do you think Thailand needs right now? I think people just want their dreams to come true. The government, they’re not required to do it, but they should at least provide a platform or a safety net for people. Whether your dream is to have a family, or to open a small restaurant, or to make your own craft beer, the government should provide some tools or access, because dreams are difficult to achieve [without any help]. It’s important for the people to get back up and do it again when they fail, with support from the government.

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