IT'S FREE! NO.828 I FRIDAY, MAY 26, 2023
Thailand’s musicians try to make the world their own.
Secret chord.
WHO’S IN CHARGE?
BK EDITORIAL
Managing Director Dietrich Neu
Managing Editor Tyler Roney
Deputy Editor Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
Senior Writer Porpor Leelasestaporn
Art Director Wirankan Saiyasombut
GROVE: COCONUTS BRAND STUDIO
Senior Brand Editor Julianne Greco
Associate Thai Editor Pakvipa Rimdusit
Branded Content Writer Moe Thet War
Senior Project Manager
Sirinart Panyasricharoen
Senior Account Manager Hafiz Rasid
Senior Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk
Kittichailuk
Art Director Tan Kar Liang
Senior Graphic Designer Umporn Jiaranai
Production Manager Komkrit Klinkaeo
Head of Business Development
Elizabeth Chua
Senior Business Development Managers
Piti Rungrojanaluck, Sophia Ong
Business Development Manager
Chalida Anuwattanawong
Publisher, Printer, and Editor
Tara Rattanaphas
Cover Collage: Promotional photography from Steve Porte, Rap Against Dictatorship, Kanato, Tanik Prasopsorn.
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NO.828 I FRIDAY, MAY 26, 2023 06 cover story Bangkok’s musicians are trying to 04 by the numbers You had one job, Election Commission 14 new & noted Chengdu’s famous mala hot pot Shu Daxia opens in Bangkok 05 in brief Thailand pro wrestlers put on a rooftop rumble 17 news The Smokin’ Pug’s new spot is open on Sukhumvit Soi 20 20 travel No more commercial flights to Mae Hong Son 21 hit list Lululemon comes to Bangkok 22 last word Teenage wildlife photographer puts wild Thailand in perspective 12 open door New Ari spot dishes out creative comfort food until 3am 18 feature 12 places to get the best bowls of ramen in Bangkok. 13 review The inside on El Willy
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YOU HAD ONE JOB, ELECTION COMMITTEE
B130,540
The monthly salary of election committee members—yes, despite the huge salaries, plus the minimal workload every four years (eight or more for a coup), they still messed up. You had one job.
2,350,969
The number of Thai eligible voters who registered for advance voting from the total number of 52,287,045
YOU SAID WHAT?
“Well, they’re wearing masks, so it should be OK. ”
— Twitter user Four.O on a professional wrestling match on the Arcadia Barcade rooftop.
“For the longest time I thought Cheesecake Factory was a fictional restaurant from the Big Bang Theory.”
— Facebook user Matt Mayer on the news of a Cheesecake Factory opening in Bangkok later this year.
“Met him in Wat Arun that day .”
— Instagram user @asistenliburan on seeing Conan O’Brien filming his Bangkok special.
1,063,870
The number of people who campaigned to impeach the election committee for their blatant mistakes. The original goal was to gather 1.5 million—but they’re getting there.
592
The number of complaints against the election committees from voters who found mistakes on their ballots—from the wrong election post number to misspellings of the provinces’ names.
HOT OR NOT
Pro gamers
Three French pro gamers decided to open a place where the casual and elite can meet to play the latest titles in living room-style comfort. Romain Noel, Ilyes Aoudia, and Benjamin Aime—all in their late 20s—have opened Bamboo E-sport Center.
Hot in here
It’s not bad enough that Bangkok keeps getting hotter, but now the electric bills are out of this world. What’s more, it’s being turned into a political football. The government has earmarked B10.46 billion for household utility rebates, but will that really do anything to your bill?
Face banking
As if the interest wasn’t bad enough. Thai banks say customers must give up their faces to the National Digital ID platform. All banks will require facial recognition to withdraw sums of B50,000 (US$1,500) and up and for transfer over B200,000 per day.
Clawing at controversy
After Fat Joe visited a tiger farm in Pattaya after Rolling Loud, Halle Bailey, the actress playing Ariel in the much-anticipated live action The Little Mermaid, got in hot water after photos surfaced of her visiting Safari World, a zoo long accused of mistreating wildlife.
4
upfront
Thailand pro wrestlers put on an Phra Khanong rooftop rumble
A hi-so heel, a motosai hero, a hellish demon—the violent panto of pro wrestling came to Sukhumvit last month. Setup Thailand Pro Wrestling, the city’s premier pro wrestling organizer, featured a line up of fighters away from their normal right to perform for dozens of fans on the rooftop of Arcadia Barcade.
Featuring one-on-one, tagteam, and a brutal hardcore match, the show was a chance for the faces and heels of Setup to bring in more fans for their displays of fake violence with a very Thai theme.
Featuring backstories of murderers, Undertaker-style monsters, club kids, and, oddly, someone bragging of having a premium Porn Hub account, the wrestlers are local talent with international guests. Expect more shows in the near future at their regular spot at Ladprao’s Circus Studio, G Village.
Comedian and TV host Conan O’Brien teases travel special in Bangkok
Beloved American comedian and talk show host has teased a Thailand special. A clip of him in Bangkok outside Wat Arun was posted online—and of course he was complaining about the truly insane heat of Bangkok summer.
The clip features a Royal Enfield, and we’re not sure how it will feature in the special, but you can expect a tuk-tuk in there somewhere.
“Hot. Very hot. Record-setting apparently. We decided to come here,” the show host said in a social media video.
O’Brien previously hosted the “Conan Without Borders” show, visiting Cuba, Armenia, South Korea, and Germany.
You can probably expect him to indulge in the tourist usuals; he posted a picture, of course, of himself looking suspiciously at a scorpion-on-a-stick. You know, those scorpions on sticks people in Bangkok always eat.
Books and Beers Festival returns to Bangkok in July
Sponsored by Book Festival, We Want Records Label, KTC, the Singha Complex, and more, the Books and Beers Festival will return on Jul 21, 2023 for a week of reading and drinking.
The event will be held at the Singha Complex near the Phetchaburi MRT Station. Guests at the drinking and book buying event can expect cheap reads, conversation with writers, music, and arts and crafts at the Books and Beers 2023. A social media release from the event says there will be discounted books and new releases.
The tagline for the event this year is the simple “Keep calm, read a book, and drink beer.” Last year, the annual event, held at the same location, was themed “No book I cry, no beer I die.”
Though specifics have not yet been released for the upcoming July festival, the 2022 version featured book stalls from more than 50 publishers.
Thailand welcomes its first ever officially registered gin
By law, Siam Gin is the first officially registered Thai gin. You may have seen Iron Balls or Saneha by the Chalong Bay people, but if you look closely at the bottle, nowhere says “gin,” just “white spirit,” as they are distilled at a “community license” distillery.
The reason Siam Gin can register as an official “gin” is because it was distilled at a properly complete distillery in Kanchanaburi, CCM, which holds a different license to products in the past.
The difference in distillery licenses includes the level of tax, how much you are allowed to make each year, and various alcohol options for the distillery. At CCM, they are even allowed to make whiskey with completely legal aging. The plan is to try and elevate more local spirits.
Apart from the juniper that needs to be imported, Siam Gin is made from 100% Thai botanical ingredients.
NO.828 I FRIDAY, MAY 26, 2023 5 BK in brief
Setup Thailand Pro Wrestling Conan O’Brien
PLAY CHANGE FOR CHANGE
cover story
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As Thailand reels and worries about the effects of the recent election, in the bars, concert venues, and streets of Bangkok, musicians are trying to change minds with their music. From anti-fascist prog rock and luk thung to instrumentalists and rappers facing prison, the creators of Thailand play for change.
Anti-fascists of ZeitGeistS
ZeitGeistS wants to change the world with prog rock. Formed in 2015 with Aum Subhamitra on guitar and Kim Nopbhorn W, and currently with Thot Panomkwan on drums and Wasin Wainiya on keyboards, the anti-fascist and instrumental ZeitGeistS released their first EP in 2021 and combine elements of psych rock, doom, prog, and experimental. Going from Black Sabbath-style electronic metal to jazzy licks, ZeitGeistS is a Bangkok band with big ideals. Creator Kim Nopbhorn W. tells BK more.
What are the causes you and your band care about?
Politics, society, anti-fascism, anti-establishment, humanity, and death.
What are some examples of how you try to affect social change with your music?
We’re always delivering a message to an audience regarding social issues through our music and live performance along with footage of violence against civilians by the government in our country and other countries. We also speak for those who are oppressed by military dictatorships and tyrannical governments through our social media.
You recently played in Cambodia and have been outspoken on the situation in Myanmar. Do you think you’ve been successful in confronting issues outside of Thailand?
At this stage we would not say successful, but it’s truly a good start. However, after the show, we had conversations with the audience about politics—wars and violence not only in Cambodia, Thailand, and Myanmar but also around the world. It’s a good sign and could mean hope for tomorrow.
You’ve played for live crowds big and small in Bangkok. How do they respond to your message? Any trouble with the authorities?
We pretty much received a positive response while performing, and we can tell that some people are deeply touched by our message, not just by our audio but also visually through footage of the crackdown on the protesters in Thailand and Myanmar. Other people grow angry when they learn that we are anti-fascism. Honestly, it had us a little worried because we have Section 112 (Thailand’s lèse-majesté law) complaints that can be filed by anyone, against anyone. The military government and the “anti-democracy” people are using Section 112 to target people who have different political stances. Our friend Mint Kanyamon is a traditional dancer and pro-democracy activist who performed with ZeitGeistS but now lives somewhere in Europe, a political asylum seeker … accused under article 112 of the Thai Criminal Code last year.
PLAY FOR CHANGE PLAY FOR
NO.828 I FRIDAY, MAY 26, 2023
In their own words, Bangkok’s musicians try to change the world.
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▲ Photo: ZeitGeistS / Kantaphong Khamcharoen
Photo: ZeitGeistS in Cambodia / Steve Porte ▲
Elections and Hope with Rap Against Dictatorship
Hockhacker
Father of two, Hockhacker has faced charges of sedition, governmentsponsored hacking, and revocation of his passport for being the face of Rap Against Dictatorship. Today, however, he is still making music with Thailand’s most contentious hip-hop group.
Can your music change the world?
Protozua
Nakhon Sawan native Protozua is a member of Rap Against Dictatorship (RAD), known for taking on tough political topics and taking the fight to the government. He speaks with BK about their new song and the May elections.
Could you tell our readers what kind of change you want to bring about with your music?
I think our music can reach young people, a lot of young people. And in our new song, we try to bring out the new voters to go and vote because last time we had an election, the young voters didn’t come out that much. The name of the song, is คนที่ตัดสินใจคือฉันเอง, which translates to “Only I Decide.”
How is hip hop contributing to politics in Thailand?
Most of the groups that talk about politics are underground. There are also mainstream hip-hop artists make music about politics, like Mili and Youngohm; they have songs that talk about politics.
Since you published your election song, what do you hope will happen with the coming election?
We hope the democratic parties— like [Move Forward Party] and Pheu Thai—will get more representatives this time. About the Prime Minister, I’m not sure because we have the 250 senators recruited by Prayuth so those 250 people can pick who is gonna be the Prime Minister. What change do you want to see in government?
I want the people outside of Bangkok to be able to pick their own city mayor. And our group wants Thai people in the democratic parties to stop fighting with each other. In the lyrics of our song, we talk about who the real enemy of democracy is, and we don’t want democratic people to be fighting each other. It’s happening now, but I think it’s going to end after the election.
I think the power of music is to create a discussion on the topic and the problem. We can raise the problems that we have in society, in the community. In the songs, we use powerful wording in Thai—we are not fluent in English. So we try to use easy-to-understand wording. To compare and use symbolic meanings, that’s a poem. That’s poetry. But for hip-hop music artists, we must use direct words in a punchline to affect society. So I think our music can change the world, yes.
Do you think your recent election song (“Only I Decide”) has changed people’s minds?
I read the feedback on social media and on the YouTube comments. I think we released it at the perfect time [May 10]. I think people need some encouragement, maybe from artists or some influencers, because there are a lot of new followers in our audience. So when we dropped the music, I think it worked as encouragement. We are going to the election to change the country, change the generation gap, to change problems made by the older generation.
After the 2020 protests, you’ve had a lot of trouble with the government and police. How has this changed you? It changed me a bit. I got the Article 116 [for sedition] and go to court every month and I got my iPhone hacked from by spyware. Before that I worked freelance, but when I ran into the law, the police monitored my activity as an activist in the hip-hop scene. So I changed my lifestyle to be a full-time worker (as a marketing project manager), but I’m still in the music industry. I want to prove I am a simple man, I’m a simple guy, that can work with everyone, but I have another part. My little kid—I have two daughters, one is nearly four, the first who was with me when the police came—and the little one is just one year and nine months. So I’m taking time to look after my kids. I think I’m staying out of the activist scene of the protests about 112 (lese majeste). [...] So, I don’t go outside. But after the election, if something is not normal, if the old government tries to shift the election, maybe we have new protests next month. I think we are ready to go outside again, in a mob, in a protest.
What’s the one big thing you want to change?
Everyone trusts that we can change the country. The people are not brave right now to go outside, but they have an internal voice. They talk about how to change. [...] My job is I’m trying to tell my story about how to fight. Everyone can fight in their own way. If you are an artist, you fight as an artist. If you are a worker, fight as a worker. Every part of the Thai people, I think we can fight in our own way.
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Photo: Hockhacker / BK Magazine
Photo: Rap Against Dicatorship’s “Only I Decide”
Change and Sound with Hope the Flowers
The seven-member instrumental Hope the Flowers uses post-rock tunes in the bars and live music venues of Bangkok, initially a project by Narongrit “Hon” Ittipolnavakul. Through sentimental dirges and emotional melodies, Hope the Flowers wants to heal political wounds and fight corruption . with sound. Guitarist Hon Narongrit tells BK more.
You’re an instrumental post-rock band, which is a far cry from the usual political messages of punk or hip-hop. How can you make social change with sound?
We usually communicate via song title and visuals, such as music videos or spoken messages in the intro of some songs or during live performance, identifying the band’s political standpoints. For example, in “Warchestra” we try to recreate the story of citizens’ fight against the corrupt power in Thailand; we shaped the tune’s mood and vibe so the audience can experience that immense tension, which we hope can awaken a flame in their heart. Another example is “Life is Beautiful When You Smile”, where we try to convey a political message from another perspective, more alleviating and healing for the wounded souls to rise again.
What do you hope to see in the future?
We hope real democracy will be truly established, not the coup-controlled democracy we used to have. Moreover, the longer we delve into our music career, the more we see the younger generation loaded with extraordinary talent, motivation, and creativity. Unfortunately, their abilities are not properly nurtured yet, or are even restrained from being nourished.
When we talk about music or any other form of art, the core of really being an artist isn’t just technical skill or creating captivating work, but also relaying a message to the audience. As we can see in history, art has always been the tool for the weak to express their agony, wrath, or other sentiments. [...] Another change we want to see is a significant economic improvement which will elevate the quality of life of every citizen in the country. We believe one of the reasons alternative genre artists struggle in recent decades is due to economical strife. If we can afford daily expenses while not overworking our body and time, we can put ourselves into more art and other spiritual activities.
How do people respond to your instrumental message?
In our performance in “Demo Expo,” which is a more political-themed concert, we perform “Warchesta” and other rousing theme songs along with more alleviating ones such as “Sunlight.” During, we encourage the audience to do the famous three-finger sign and give speeches. During a time when political issues in society are more intense, “Warchestra” is the song we often pick up. We use the rousing vibe to stir up smoldering dissatisfaction to enhance our speeches. Most audiences seem to be participating, but evaluating how our message stirs domestic political activity might be beyond our capability.
Ble Patumrach R Siam
Arthit Somnoi, best known as Ble Patumrach, is a 26 year old rising luk thung star. A genre of Thai music, luk thung is slang for “countryside,” and Ble is from Amnat Charoen province in Isaan and was discovered by RSiam (operated under RS Records) via his social media. Changing minds about the country lifestyle and country people. He speaks to BK about his life as an Isaan kid and what it took for him to become what he is.
Tell us about your journey to fame.
My parents are farmers and I used to do small farming-related gigs here and there around the village and was making B600-700 per week. I was 19 when I was discovered, and all of the money I had on me was B400. I borrowed some money from my parents, bought a bus ticket, and went to the RS Records office.
What was it like growing up in Amnat Charoen?
Definitely quite different to living in Bangkok. Even though my parents are farmers, I never grew up feeling like my life was a struggle. I would cycle three kilometers to go to school and liked to spend time with my grandparents or other elderly people in the community and listened to the music on the radio that they were listening to. That inspired me to write music when I was a kid.
What are your inspirations for your music?
Life. Anything and everything about life, including the struggles, the hardship, and the happy times as well. I try to relate my music to someone’s life out there in our society. And when I write sad songs, all these words, they are alive and they make me look at life differently and understand myself and life better as well. ●
CHANGE
Photo:
Hope the Flowers / Kanato ▲
▲ NO.828 I FRIDAY, MAY 26, 2023 9
Photo: Ble Patumrach
FOR
NEW ARI SPOT DISHES OUT CREATIVE COMFORT FOOD UNTIL 3AM
The buzz: While there are many places to eat and drink in the residential Ari area, Kenny’s sets itself apart by offering comfort food done well and with a twist. They also stay open from 10am until 3am for the night owls with the midnight munchies.
The vibe: From the look outside, this spot might seem just like another neighborhood restaurant but there’s something about them that’s quite inviting. Maybe it’s the logo of a friendly looking cartoon boy, or their cozy looking interiors that split into two floors with the mezzanine overlooking the first floor. But once you take a step inside, you could feel the casualty and that there won’t be any judgment if you want to eat your pizza with ketchup.
The food: The pizza game is strong here and the beef burger (B290) is also a must-try. For pizza, get the Smoked It Every Day (B390) with smoked fior di latte, smoked peppered bacon from Larder, red onion, egg, and extra virgin olive oil. You’ve never had toppings like this before, combining smoked cheese, smoked bacon, and the smoke from their oven. On the side, grab the addictive Lays(zy) chips (B120), homemade chips similar to the packets of chips you buy but way tastier (and fresh). Our favorite has to be the corn
ribs served with spicy marinara (B180). Crispy baby kale chicken salad (B320) is also a healthier option for those watching their weight. If you don’t feel like pizza or burgers, the baked meatball and cheese with spicy marinara is a good alternative (pork B190/ beef B220)
The drinks: One of the minds behind this cozy neighborhood restaurant comes from Smiling Mad Dog, one of the biggest craft beer importers in Thailand, so their beer selection isn’t here to play. You’ll get all the favorites like Brewdog Hazy Jane (B320), To Ol City Session IPA (B320), Heart Of Darkness Dream Alone (B260), and the BrewDog Punk IPA on tap (B220). On top of that, you also get a selection of earthy and casual wines like the fun Australian Press + Bloom (Sauvignon Blanc B1,990/Pinot noir B1,990)
Why we’d come back: If you’ve walked through Ari before, you know it’s not exactly a pleasant sojourn. With Kenny’s, you mostly walk on the main road, so this spot is easy to get to. Twenty minutes on the train from downtown Bangkok and a four-minute walk from BTS Ari, you’re in a whole new neighborhood with cheaper drinks and food. ●
12 food & drink open door
Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
El Willy was all the buzz in late 2021 when globe-trotting Spanish chef Guillermo “Willy” Trullas Moreno brought his “sexy tapas” concept to Bangkok—billed as a quirky-cool approach to Spanish food that acts as a through line for his entire food empire across Asia.
The Bangkok version of the upscale tapas specialist hasn’t changed all that much during its year and a half tucked away in a corner lot on Sukhumvit Soi 51. A moody dining space splashed with pops of color and counter seating, and a slightly hidden private room, are all centered around the open kitchen.
Despite ranking 13th overall in BK Magazine’s Top Tables 2022, and also winning a bonus honor as “best new restaurant” for the year, the experience on our most recent visit was a mixed bag. The menu has expanded greatly since the restaurant’s initial launch, but many of the crowd favorites remain like the “explosion de salmon y trufa” (smoked salmon with sour greek yogurt sitting on a crisp with truffle honey, B550) which showcased a pleasing medley of flavors, textures—we thought the cool greek yogurt was smooth soft serve on first bite. Similarly, the “papada iberica con piquillos” (chargrilled pork jowl served on a bed of roasted peppers) and the “tostada de atun” (fresh
tuna, corn tostada, avocado, and smoked chili, B290) both highlight the venue’s ability to take only a handful of ingredients and turn them into a surprisingly diverse and fresh-tasting bite.
Much less impressive was the paella, supposedly one of El Willy’s centerpiece dishes. The squid ink version with mixed seafood (B1,490/2 people) was a big, bland disappointment—tasteless squid ink rice, dry mussels that shattered into pieces as they opened, and grit in the razor clams that felt like eating sand. El Willy also dumps truffle pieces and oils in some dishes without listing it on the set-menu descriptions, like the bikini sandwich (B525), so keep that in mind if you’re the type of person who grimaces at pungent truffle notes. The service staff, although smiling and friendly, regularly slipped up on the basics like changing plates and glasses, and on more than one occasion forgot to tell us about a set-menu change until the dish had arrived at the table.
El Willy is a fun restaurant as advertised: the room, vibe and creative twists on dishes all feel unique. Despite this, no part of the experience felt truly memorable. For a restaurant that prides itself on being quirky and cool, it’s missing some wow factor. ●
LE DU
399/3, Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969.
Open Mon-Sat, 6-11pm
If you’re looking for Thai fine dining, you’ll be hard pressed to find a place in Bangkok that does it better than Le Du. All clean lines and white surfaces, Le Du’s original dining room shirks decor trends and lets you focus on your plate, where the sights, smells, and flavors form true master pieces; the second floor, with its bricks and dark lattice-work, allows for a moodier tete-atete. Its name, taken from a Thai word that is a synonym for “season,” is meant to reflect the team’s emphasis on only utilizing the freshest seasonal produce that Thailand has to offer; in the past, the seasonallyupdated menu has featured ingredients like squid from Satun province, mountain rice from Pai, and ant larvae from the country’s northeast. Under the guidance of Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassana-kajohn, the two-storey modern eatery offers a fouror six-course tasting menu that includes artful dishes that defy the humble origins of pad kaprao, choo chee curry, or larb. As a certified sommelier, Chef Ton has also curated an expert wine list that pairs perfectly with his culinary creations.
Get a complimentary welcome drink Siam Sunrise valued THB 300 when spending via UOB Credit Card or TMRW Credit Card
(Limit 1 glass /card /table /sales slip)
NO.828 I FRIDAY, MAY 26, 2023 13
food & drink review
2F, 27/1, Sukhumvit Soi 51. 063 439 4597.
TABLE TALK
Apr ’23 - 31 Dec ’23
and Conditions apply
are available to Citi-branded card members TBT-le du.indd 1 18/5/2566 BE 14:19 EL WILLY ★★★☆☆
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Phrom Phong is home to a new Spanish tapas specialist
K Village is upping its food game with the introduction of Spanish tapas specialist Alegria. The new restaurant takes over a spacious second-floor spot with big floor-toceiling windows to let in natural light. A sizeable chunk of the available seating at the venue is centered around a large bar that encircles the open kitchen, allowing guests to peer inside as the chefs grill and sizzle their way through a concise menu of Spanish classics. This is real Spanish tapas, not a different cuisine with the “tapas” label because they have tiny plates. The seafood paella (mussels, clams, and prawns, B860) uses short-grain bomba rice, a specialized non-sticky variety often cultivated in eastern Spain for its ability to absorb liquid while retaining an al dente texture.
Nusara relocates to a spot with a more impressive view of Wat Pho
Arguably Bangkok’s busiest chef, Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn recently relocated his Thai chef’s table Nusara to a new spot, promising an even more amazing view overlooking Wat Pho. Named after their grandmother, this private dining restaurant sees a collaboration between Ton and his two brothers who seek to imbue a sense of warmth and nostalgia through their grandmother’s recipes. Aficionados of Ton can expect the same quality and stunning creativity, but the venue also promises another new and exciting perk: a stand-alone bar, Nuss Bar, on the ground floor. Recently, Nusara secured the 3rd spot at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, the regional version of its global World’s 50 Best Restaurants by San Pellegrino.
Burger favorite The Fat Cow opens on Ratchaphruek
The Fat Cow announced the soft opening of their The Fat Cow Ratchaphruek at Robinson Lifestyle Ratchaphruek northwest of Koh Kret last week. Expect to find signature burgers like The Fat Cow and The French as well as a bevy of craft beer. The new venue makes the brand’s fourth in the city, the previous being Chinatown’s The Fat Cow Yaowarat, minutes walk from MRT Wat Mangkon Exit 1. The original The Fat Cow in Ladprao moved around the corner last year, and the second branch opened in Bangwa. Known for their craft beer selection and signature burgers, the unpretentious The Fat Cow serves burgers (B260-B320), sandwiches (B150-B320), pasta (B240-B320), and bigger ticket items such as the BBQ pork ribs (B480) and steak frites (B580).
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food & drink new & noted
Alegria
The Fat Cow
Nusara
Chengdu’s famous mala hotpot
Shu Daxia opens in Bangkok
Bangkok is getting another hot pot chain. Hailing from Chengdu, Shu Daxia is opening its first outlet at Bangkok’s Ladprao’s Crystal Design Center. Roughly translated to Shu’s great hero, the venue’s concept interior aims to transport you to the bygone era of the Three Kingdoms’ great warriors and their battle feasts. With its lanterns, intricate carved pillars, and giant golden dragon statue, a quick look at the 3D rendered images of the venue is reminiscent of traditional Chinese palaces. The place features four different soup bases, ranging from the traditional mala broth simmered over 12 hours and mushroom base to collagen bone soup and tomato.
Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok’s CRAFT is launching new international menu items
CRAFT, the social hub cafe located inside the Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok, is gearing up to launch a new line of dishes that pay homage to cuisines from around the world such as Japan, Turkey, France, and Mexico with its unique twists. Under the guidance of Sous Chef “Gun” Patinya Srithong, the updated CRAFT menu experiments with unique ingredients and blends different international cuisines, and also include more vegan and vegetarian options. Highlights on the menu include tuna tataki salad, duck confit taquitos, chashumen, and vegan pops. On the drinks side, CRAFT has got you covered with some of the best single-origin coffees and craft cocktails in the city. Bonus: the venue is pet-friendly, and even has a separate menu for your four-legged friends!
G/F, Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok, 78, Soi Ton Son, 02056-9999. Open daily, 7am-midnight
Brought to you by
RESTAURANT POTONG
422, Vanich 1 Road, 082-979-3950. Open Thurs-Mon, 5-11pm
Thai restaurant Baan Nual’s new location will be ready in June
The hard-to-book Thai restaurant Baan Nual said in January that they were closing their original location to move to a new, bigger location, and they recently announced they’ll be ready by the beginning of June. The venue has also said booking information will be announced next month, and Baan Nual has a reputation for long waits—usually around two months. So, if you want to dine at their new location soon, you’d better get ready. Baan Nual serves no-BS Thai dishes in big portions. They send diners a list of dishes available on the day of booking to order in advance and prep what you order; no ordering on the spot. ●
Located in a 120-year-old five-story shophouse that was previously a Thai-Chinese pharmacy, Restaurant POTONG is the eating house turned fine dining spot of celebrity chef Pitchaya “Pam” Utarntham (who actually named it after her great grand father’s herbal shop). Today, the Michelinstarred foodie destination takes diners through some of the city’s best Thai-Chinese cuisine via a 20-course dinner menu. With out giving away too many spoilers, guests can expect an orange tree served in a tree pot, noodles with caviar and grated shrimp yolk, an inside-out pomelo, and on the sweet side, a toddy palm sugar lollipop. The drinks menu is equally delightful, and is speckled with Pam’s own neatly hand-written manuscripts journaling her thought process in curating the selection.
Get a complimentary beverage valued THB 380++ when ordering POTONG Tasting Menu and spending via UOB Credit Card or TMRW Credit Card
Privileges are available to Citi-branded card members
(Limit 1 glass /person, a complimentary beverage can be redeemed after dinner at OPIUM Bar on same day only, excluding VAT and service charge)
1 Jan ’23 - 31 Dec ’23
Terms and Conditions apply
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The Smokin’ Pug’s new barbecue spot is open on Sukhumvit Soi 20
For years, Bangkok barbecue lovers have headed to Langsuan for the smoky meats, fun design, and good drinks of Smokin’ Pug, and now they’ve finally opened a second spot, this time on Sukhumvit Soi 20. The Smokin’ Pug announced on social media that they are now open on Sukhumvit 20 in addition to their Langsuan location. The announcement also said they will be keeping their same menu but will be adding a few new dishes. The popular Texas-style barbecue joint from Dana and Daniel Garber started in Surawong but moved to their Langsuan location about six years ago. This is the first expansion of the brand. With what might be probably the best barbecue in the city in a raucous but still upscale atmosphere, Smokin’ Pug is a calorific smorgasbord of Americana.
Hakata-style ramen spot Uma Uma opens on Sukhumvit 39
The popular Hakata-style ramen Uma Uma from Fukuoka is opening its second branch in Sukhumvit Soi 39 Apr 25. Fans of this Hakata-style tonkotsu broth ramen will find the place retaining its old atmosphere of a ramen-slash-izakaya joint with some modern
touches, from a glass-fronted kitchen counter to the cozy curtain-partitioned seating areas. Try their original Uma Uma ramen, a Hakatastyle tonkotsu soup enriched with collagen and generously portioned chashu pork and shiitake mushrooms. Izakaya aficionados can opt for their crispy torikawa (grilled chicken skin) as well as assorted skewers featuring chicken skin, meat, pork belly, meatballs, and baconwrapped enoki mushrooms.
Ekkamai gets a new 1920s prohibition-themed speakeasy
There are a few bars in Bangkok going with the gangster-y, Al Capone-y, prohibition-y type vibe, but few are leaning as hard into the theme as the newly opened 2463 Speakeasy. Now open in Civic Hotel Ekkamai, the 2463 Speakeasy—so named because that was the year 1920 in the Thai calendar—the new venue indulges in the era in both design and in its drinks. The Charlie Chaplin (gin, Creme de Yvette, berries, Peychaud’s Bitters, lemon, egg whites, and cacao husk air foam, B420) is an homage to the legendary actor and filmmaker of the age, and the Eighteenth Amendment (tequila, tepache, banana, bell Pepper, palm sugar, onion brine, and Perrier, B380) is so named for the infamous amendment that instituted prohibition.
Pastel Rooftop Bar & Mediterranean Dining does farm-to-table on a stunning Bangkok rooftop
With an authentic Mediterranean menu using only carefully sourced farm-totable ingredients, Pastel Rooftop Bar & Mediterranean Dining’s food is as incredible as its sweeping rooftop views and festive vibes. Seafood reigns supreme thanks to their “raw bar” and the signature “Pastel on the yacht,” which features fresh caviar, oysters, and tuna tartare (to give you just a small taste), as well as hearty classics like lobster fettuccine. However, large groups of diners can also opt to share a mix of traditional tapas, or dive into the rest of the meat and vegetarian options like the sizzling rib eye or a creamy beetroot risotto.
22/F, Aira Hotel, 14, Sukhumvit 11, 095-703-5679. Open daily, 5pm-1am. ●
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GOTTA SLURP ‘EM ALL
12 places to get the best bowls of ramen in Bangkok.
No Name Noodle
Never has Bangkok experienced such a craze for a single ramen joint. Opened in early 2022, No Name Noodle has been fully booked and packed to the point that even media outlets have to join queues like everyone else. Shin Inoue, the brains behind the place, is a former chef at Rockman Thonglor, serving tsuke soba soaked in shiso sauce laden with Hotate scallops and Asari clams, finished with hints of yuzu sauce.
2 Attha Kawi 1 Alley, 082 059 5417. Open daily 11am-3pm.
Shoyu Stand
If you desperately want to try Shin Inoue’s creations without the need to book in advance, head to the Thonglor for his spin-off project sitting above J Avenue. As the name suggests, the star here is the shoyu ramen, a crowd pleaser for both noodle novices and ramen experts. His current signature menu plays on three thermal senses: hot, cold, and lukewarm. Try his Cappuccino Noodles (B280). It’s truly a sight to behold with the frothy awa-kei (bubble), filling the broth with rich, creamy truffle taste. When combined with the added toppings (B70)—soft-boiled egg, chashu pork, and bamboo shoots—it’s full of Japanese umami and well-balanced flavors.
2/F J Avenue Thonglo 323 Thonglor Soi 15, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana
Uma Uma
With roots back to 1953, the owner of this ramen joint began his business with a humble ramen cart, opening with the name Sanmaro before changing to his son’s name Umaro. Try their original Uma Uma ramen, a Hakata-style tonkotsu soup enriched with collagen and generously portioned chashu pork and shiitake mushrooms. Izakaya aficionados can opt for their crispy torikawa (grilled chicken skin) as well as assorted skewers featuring chicken skin, meat, pork belly, meatballs, and bacon-wrapped enoki mushrooms.
39/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1130. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-14:30, 5:30-midnight; Sat 11:30ammidnight; Sun 11:30am-10pm. Other branch: Sukhumvit Soi 39.
Sendai Ramen Mokkori
In an age of prefab imported ramen chains that slot nicely into shopping malls, this dingy shophouse stands apart. You’ll rarely not encounter the owner—his face blazoned on menus and promo flyers—personally manning the stoves, bellowing out an “irasshaimase!” to everyone who walks in. The karamiso also scores serious kudos—a spicy broth made from miso which the Japanese will tell you is the hardest ramen style to master. The taste is rich and stew-y, while the dollop of slightly sweet, salty chili paste gives the bowl a genuine kick
8/3 Thonglor Soi 2, 02-392-0811. Open daily 11am2am. Other branch: Surawong.
Menya Itto
Tokyo’s much-hyped ramen shop Menya Itto moved to its new home in Gaysorn Tower, just a stone’s throw from its old Erawan spot. Fans of ramen can expect smooth, delicious oil-free seafood and chicken broths that burst with umami. The main calling card, however, is their signature tsukemen, with a rich and complex dipping sauce that carries a touch of natural sweetness, perfect to pair with their springy and thick whole wheat noodles. Finish it all with the light dashi stock.
999 Ratchadamri Road 3rd Floor, Gaysorn Tower. Open 11am-9pm.
Fujiyama Go Go
Fujiyama GoGo specializes in tsukemen, a popular derivative of tonkotsu created by Yamagishi Kazuo, the godfather of Tokyo’s ramen scene. The Umakara Tsukemen (B230) features cold, super-springy noodles (almost like udon) dipped into a bonito and tonkotsu broth braised for 48 hours for an intense flavor. Slurp away as you would with a good zaru soba, stopping to partake in the thickly sliced, tender chashu. Induction heaters sit alongside each table for guests to reheat the broth if it gets too cold.
55 Soi Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02 662 6115, open daily 11am-11pm.
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Ramen Tei
It doesn’t matter which of the five branches you stumble into, you’re guaranteed to be greeted like an old, drunken friend at this old-school Japanese diner. Whether your preference is shoyu, miso or tonkotsu, the bowls here are big on flavor and portion. Special mention goes to the katsu curry, which is a buttery delight. The sets are big enough to feed a small family—or one very hungry Japanese salaryman.
23/8-9 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd, 02-234-8082, open daily 11am-11pm.
Bankara Ramen
The popularity of Japanese ramen chain Bankara knows no bounds. The oil floating on the tsukemen’s surface might put off health-conscious diners, but for the rest of us, springy, well-chilled noodles bathing in a warm and fatty soup are deeply satisfying. It takes four pages of the menu before you get past ramen, but there’s a lot to be said for the torikaraage, too—crunchy on the outside, moist in the middle. Cut through all the fat with the aromatic, cherry-flavored annin tofu soy bean pudding.
The Manor, 32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-622-5162/3. Open daily 11am-11pm. Other branches: Siam Paragon, Zpell.
Udon Sakaba Kitaro Labo
Phrom Phong may be saturated with Japanese restaurants, but this udon specialist—despite opening for just a month—is garnering crowds for its gigantic bowl of freshly made udon noodles. Between the alleys in Sukhumvit Soi 43, Udon Sakaba Kitaro Labo not only serves dense noodles with delectable variations but also dubs as a spot for premium-quality sukiyaki to get you out of your post-work funk. The in-house udon menu comes with a variety of toppings, from mentaiko udon noodles (B360) and potato cream (B280) to beef curry (B360) and carbonara (B420).
Sukhumvit Soi 43, 02-010-5299, Tue-Sun 11.30am2pm; 5pm-10pm.
Kiri Tsukemen
The people behind Thonglor’s beloved Kansai udon specialist Tsuru recently unveiled Kiri Tsukemen, their new joint specializing in tsukemen, a separate bowl of freshly made noodles paired with various dipping sauces. Each option arrives with a burning stone bowl to keep your experience going. The menu— just like its compact space—sees their thick, bouncy noodles (B350) laden with slices of sous vide pork shoulder, fermented bamboo shoot menma, and perfectly soft boiled egg with a dipping sauce of your choice. Here, you get to choose from five different dipping sauces, boasting both tonkotsu (pork bone) and chicken bone broth. Go for our favorite seabura a simmering broth made from pork back fat, with an end result that is delicate, yet rich, bursting with sheer umaminess.
64 Thonglor Rd., 065-295-8989, Open daily 11am3pm; 5pm-9pm.
Tsu Na Gu
Tsu Na Gu, a new tonkotsu ramen specialist located in Ekkamai Soi 6, offers only eight seats and serves 35 bowls daily. The rich, opaque pork bone broth and melt-in-yourmouth char siu pork from Kagoshima Prefecture make their ramen stand out. Opt for the Special (B380) with three slices of char-siu, menma, and soft-boiled eggs or try the regular bowl (B290) with two slices. Those wanting more pork can order the pork char siu rice bowl for B150.
Japan Live Kitchen. Ekkamai Soi 6, 095-562-5544, Tue-Sun 11am-8pm.
Mensho Tokyo
There’s no stopping this Japanese ramen empire. From Tokyo and San Fran to Bangkok, Mensho Tokyo churns out its superbly addictive bowls of ramen regardless of where it goes. Whether you’re a fiend for the ultrameaty toripaitan with its milk chicken broth, chashu pork and juicy sous-vide duck, or have been converted by the umami explosion of the impossibly rich vegan tantanmen, there is no doubt this place will have you making repeat visits.
G/F, RSU Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 091-887-9492. Open Tue-Sun 11am-3pm, 5-10pm. ●
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Shoyu Stand
No more commercial flights to Mae Hong Son as Nok Air ends only route
On Wednesday this week, the final flight from Don Mueang International Airport to Mae Hong Son Airport with Nok air landed in the northwestern province Northern Province. This was the only commercial route from Bangkok. A travel destination in its own right, Mae Hong Son is also a scenic two hour mountain drive to the popular backpacker destination of Pai and only three hours from Salween National Park on the border with Myanmar. The reason for the change comes as Nok Air trades Q400 aircraft for Boeing 787-800 jets, and while the Mae Hong Son Ministry of Commerce has commented that such crafts can land at Mae Hong Son Airport, the increased number of passengers on the aircraft mean the route would be unviable.
Koh Samui and Surat Thani will feature in the Michelin Guide 2024
The great Bibendum has unveiled that the next spots in Thailand set for the Michelin Guide 2024, and it’s good news for travelers to southern Thailand: Surat Thani and Koh Samui. Koh Samui and Surat Thani aren’t the first southern Thailand areas to be featured in the guide. Phuket and Phang Nga entered the guide in 2019, followed by Chiang Mai, Ayutthaya, and finally Isaan in 2023. The first Michelin guide in Thailand, dropping in 2018, featured Bangkok. Koh Samui, Thailand’s second largest island is home to several well-known fine dining hotels and restaurants, is an obvious choice considering the breadth of high end hotels that have popped up on the island in the last decade.
Asai Bangkok Sathorn opens with a new iteration of Err
The Asai Bangkok Sathorn opened their doors on May 15 after. The well-liked Err Urban Rustic Thai—with a menu created by Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava and Dylan Jones from Bo.lan—will debut a second location at the Asai Bangkok Sathorn, which opened its doors May 15. Err serves Thai fare (and cigarettes) and gained notoriety for their top-quality ingredients and full-bodied Thai tastes with playful drinking food alongside various fermented, grilled, and stir-fried dishes. The older location, Asai Bangkok Chinatown, hosts the Thai and Chinese flavors of Jam Jam.
Eastin Grand Hotel opens with a new lifestyle community mall Eastin Grand Hotel launched a second home in Phayathai in May, boasting a Mediterranean restaurant, community mall, and more. Conveniently accessible via BTS Phayathai Station, the hotel could be a perfect workation spot for your next stay in Bangkok. Here, it hosts 494 deluxe rooms and luxurious penthouse suites—ranging from 34 to 370 sqm—with interior decor designed after the Phaya Thai Palace, King Rama V’s recreational residence. The facilities spanning this 4,570sqm luxury hotel also include a fitness center, spa, executive lounge, and two massive outdoor pools. Foodwise, Eastin Grand Hotel also promises the Trattoria@22, a Mediterranean restaurant serving delectable dishes with modern twists, and international all-day dining restaurant the Market@5 which features street food-style food trucks and an eclectic choice of international cuisine.
20 travel news
The snacks from the concession stands at Rajadamnern Stadium received with much fanfare
If it’s your first time visiting Bangkok, a night out at Rajadamnern Stadium is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for you to experience the famous Thai sport. After all, what better way to cheer on a Muay Thai fight than in the world’s first Muay Thai stadium? A live DJ keeps the crowd pumped while electrifying Muay Thai fights take center stage in the state-of-the-art air-conditioned sportainment complex, including the famous Rajadamnern World Series, the world’s first Muay Thai tournament with some of the sport’s biggest names. Sit back and soak in the atmosphere with snacks and the free flow beer drink option.
8, Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd., 02-281-4205. Open Mon-Tues 7-9pm; Wed-Thurs 6-10pm; Fri-Sat 7-9pm; Sun 10am-12pm, 6-10pm
Italian kitchenware brand Smeg opens a new flagship store in Thonglor
If you’ve walked along Thonglor recently and have seen construction about three minutes from the BTS taking over the entire footpath, it’s the new Smeg store, now open.The brand used to be at Taisin Square (now closed) located a few seconds walk from BTS Phrakanong, and now they’ve been reborn in Thonglor with a much bigger and better space. Basically, everything you see on the website you will most likely be able to grab from this new Thonglor flagship store. Smeg was founded in 1948 and is known for their (expensive) retro, minimalist style of kitchenware, like the iconic United Kingdom flag fridge (B139,000).
Canadian athletic apparel Lululemon to
opens its first flagship store in Bangkok
The athleisure apparel brand known for its popular— and pricey—yoga pants and leggings, Lululemon, is launching its first flagship store in Central World this July. Set to open on the first floor of Central Court in Central World, the brand is marking a new chapter for fitness enthusiasts as it promises a wide range of men’s and women’s activewear, footwear, and accessories. Established by Chip Wilson in 1998 in Canada, Lululemon has garnered immense popularity from fitness lovers worldwide, providing highly functional design with excellent body-shaping and breathability with its patented Luon fabric, boasting a soft, comfortable, skin-hugging texture without chafing.
Japanese lifestyle brand Niko is open at Siam Square One
Japan’s popular lifestyle brand Niko (also known as Niko and...) opened its first flagship store in Thailand at Siam Square One. Established in 2012, the brand has captivated patrons with its minimalist design and high-quality fashion labels that come with reasonable prices. But it’s not just the clothes; its offerings span “uni9ue’ senses, promising products including home furnishings, kitchenware, stationery, clothing, and accessories. Its four-storey flagship store at Siam Square One follows the very same principle and dubs as a cafe with beverages and pastries on the ground floor.
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TEENAGE WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER PUTS WILD THAILAND IN PERSPECTIVE
At just 17 years old, Katanyou Wuttichaitanakorn was the winner of the Young Grand Title for the Natural History Museum’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year Awards for an up-close shot of Bryde’s whale baleen. BK speaks with this young photographer on wild Thailand.
Can you tell us how you got started with wildlife photography?
Before, I was birdwatching, just birdwatching with binoculars, and then after that I had a small camera—like a compact camera—and like, just started taking pictures when I would go birdwatching. I did that for three or four years, and thought that I wanted to take good pictures of birds and other animals like that. What first camera and lens did you move to for wildlife photography?
The first time I used a [DSLR] camera with a lens, I used a Canon 60D with 55 to 250mm. I’m not sure what age, but I’ve always liked to study about nature, about birds, about wildlife, I think at least since I was six years old. So where are some of your favorite places to shoot?
In Thailand it’s Kaeng Krachan National Park, or maybe just places in Phetchaburi Province; it has many hotspots. Also the whales, I shot them in Phetchaburi Province.
Can you tell us a little more about your award-winning shot for “The Beauty of Baleen” which won Young Grand Title Winner with the Natural History Museum? How did you plan for that shot?
In Thailand, the Bryde’s whales come very close to the boat. I see people taking pictures of the whales when they come close—like they take it with a long lens to see how close they can get to the whales. But I was thinking, we can stand on the boat and we can see the baleen really clearly. I thought if we take a picture of the baleen that would be really interesting because not a lot of people in Thailand know that we have the whales in Thailand or that we have whales with baleen like this.
Where would you like to go outside of Thailand to shoot wildlife?
I don’t go out of the country for wildlife a lot; I go for travel with my family. The last place I went was Tasmania, Australia, for wildlife photography, because I didn’t go with my
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family. If I’m doing wildlife photography, they don’t like to go with me because they don’t like to walk in the forest so much. Do you have any advice for young wildlife photographers like yourself?
I would like to tell them to go and try to study many techniques to take pictures and listen to all the comments on your photos. If someone says your picture is not good, me, I try to understand that it is not good because of the composition or something like that. You need to listen, and practice, and take comments from many people. ●
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