it's free!
Pick Your Protein Which is the best protein bar available in Bangkok? Espresso Empire Japan’s fast-growing Arabica brand lands in IconSiam Brick by Brick The lowdown on the city’s most Instagrammable buildings Goldie Standard Great Britain’s drum ‘n’ bass legend talks art in Talad Noi
Life’s a beach NO. 786 JUNE 26, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com
food & drink
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 26, 2020
02
ADVERTORIAL
FEAST OF A DEAL
Family Time Comforting places to hit up with the fam Baan Khanitha
Supanniga Eating Room
One thing that sets Baan Khanitha apart is the wealth of Thai dishes that are plain-old hard to come by in Bangkok. There’s a lot to order, but make sure you grab a bowl of gang kheelek pla yang (red curry with cassia leaves and grilled fish).
Traditional flavors, a classy yet casual atmosphere, and prices that don’t make your eyes water—Supanniga’s winning combo here is rare. Lesser-known Thai dishes like moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) will make your grandma smile.
67,69 South Sathorn Rd., 063-474-6857. Open 11am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-7508. Open 10am-2:30pm and 5:30-9:30pm. BTS Thonglor
Get 10% discount on food only and get a complimentary welcome drink valued THB 190 when spending via Citi credit card (limit 1 glass /card /table /sales slip) 01 Mar ’20 - 28 Feb ’21
Cuisine De Garden With actual tree trunks popping through the floors and delicately lit knooks, the relaxing and quiet vibe here is perfect for family nights out. The multi-course menu plays with various forms and textures of ingredients, with dishes named things like “Rain Forest,” and don’t fall under a definitive label. Ekkamai Soi 2, 061-626-2816. Open 5:30pm and 6:30pm. BTS Ekkamai
Get a complimentary dessert or amuse bouche valued up to THB 250 when spending via Citi credit card (limit 1 dish / card /table /sales slip) 15 Mar ’20 - 28 Feb ’21
Supanniga Eating Room
Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip 01 Aug ’20 - 31 Jul ’20
Water Library Contemporary European food with uncompromising standards—you all know the drill here. Want a posh night out with the family? Hard to go wrong with this long standing staple on the scene.
Baan Khanitha
2/F, Chamchuri Square, Rama 4 Rd., 095085-7777. Open 11am-2:30pm and 5-9pm. MRT Samyan
Get 10% discount on food only 01 Jan ’20 - 31 Dec ’20
Brought to you by Citi
Cuisine De Garden
Water Library
page 3
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020
Who's in charge?
04
Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon
upfront
Managing Editor Craig Sauers Deputy Editor Angela Symons Audience Development Specialist Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Veerabhatr Sriyananda Junior Writer Supanan Anansuviroj Contributor Megan Leon
Goldie spills the beans on his Bangok gallery
Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Chief Commercial Officer Jane Bay Product Marketing Manager Madeleine Anantasuk Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Manager Tipkritta Chiraporncharas Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara
cover
BANGKOK, THAILAND—Officials across the world hailed today as a historic moment, as 70 million people in Thailand—a figure that includes all 69 million citizens, plus one million undocumented migrant workers—simultaneously turned a blind eye toward the country’s festering epidemic of road fatalities.
Time to get away
“We’ve never seen anything like this: an entire population overlooking this year’s current tally of 6,313 road deaths with the kind of glassy-eyed indifference usually reserved for interdepartmental meetings,” said Ned Baston from the United Nations Statistics Division.
Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri
On the street level, efforts to sustain the record were ongoing.
Interns Tanat Trakoonnumchokchai, Wanvisa Koedmongkhon, Supaporn Saeponkrang, Varinthorn Techarukpong
“I don’t know what you’re talking about,” said Chutamas “Pigg” Thongsombat, scratching her helmetless head as she sat pillion on a motorcycle taxi that was parked in the bicycle lane, facing oncoming traffic on Sathorn Road at rush hour. “I’ll tell you what does concern me is that Covid-19,” she added, drawing attention to her bromeliad-patterned facemask as her driver revved the engine of his Honda Click 125i and attempted a burnout.
09 food
Feast at home with Top Tables Kitchen Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)
Where to find us!
10
13
open door
taste test
Arabica
Protein bars
The Asia City Media Group
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2020 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
14 contest, updates, stories
bkmagazine. com
facebook.com/ bkmagazine
latest news and trends
see what’s happening
@bkmagazine
@bkmagazine
Others displayed the utter absence of emotion that helped Thailand achieve this astonishing feat upon hearing the news that, in only the first 16 days of June, 616 people had already perished on the country’s ultrahazardous streets. “How many did you say now? Isn’t that something,” said Bangkok resident Somchai Na Ayudhya, fiddling with the air-conditioning unit in his Porsche as he accelerated past gridlocked traffic on the berm of the Outer Ring Road. Told that Thailand was on pace to match, if not surpass, last year’s 14,059 total reported deaths—especially since the annual Songkran population cull had yet to take place—Prime Minister Prayuth Chan-ocha acknowledged there was work left to be done.
Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
get in the loop
Thailand sets world record for “biggest collective blind eye turned toward single epidemic”
06
SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associate Palita Nueangnit
Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
02
architecture
Bangkok’s skyline unpacked
“We’re encouraged to see that all Thais are uniting in this singular cause, but we know we can do better. That’s why we’re considering an expansion of the first-time car buyers stimulus package to include second- and even third-time car buyers,” he said. “We’ve found that offering ridiculous incentives to the public really keeps the focus off the deeprooted issues we’ll never address and gives us more freedom to gaslight our democratic partners abroad.” At press time, the prime minister was seen discussing with his cabinet ways that they could cover up ostensibly racist policies against ethnic minorities in the north and police state tactics against Muslim communities in the south by offering B3,000 handouts to domestic tourists.
upfront
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020
04
HOT OR NOT
BUBBLES
Goldie chats street art and launching his Bangkok gallery INTERVIEW
What brought you to Thailand?
What’s the universal appeal of street art?
After living between the UK and Phuket for seven years, British drum ‘n’ bass legend and influential graffiti artist Clifford Joseph Price, a.k.a. Goldie, is gearing up to open Aurum Gallery in Bangkok. We caught up with him at Warehouse 30 ahead of the Jul 4 launch to find out more.
I just love Thailand. My wife’s ex-boss had a house in Phuket and we just started coming here. I gave up [in the UK] when I started getting recognized at the cheese counter in Waitrose. In Phuket I’m left alone, family time. And time is really important to me at my age. I’m 54 now.
A lot of art comes from that urban environment because of the resilience of the soul. When people find hardship they find solace in art and music.
Why did you decide to open a gallery? It’s the next natural step, I guess, because I’ve got an eye for it and I love the arts. Walking into a gallery space is still a very important ritual. Hard copy’s got a lot to do with it—art is the only thing that can’t be downloaded. Why did you choose Charoenkrung? I think this area is growing—it’s like Shoreditch [in London] before it blew up—and this building [Warehouse 30] is pretty cool. How did you curate the artwork? Well I’ve got mates, fortunately! There’s a twoyear waiting list for Vhils now, but I’m like “Hey, can you give me some art?” Some of them thought it was a prank! What obstacles did you face in setting up a gallery in Thailand? You’ve got to jump through the right hoops. It’s cost us a lot. If you want to open a contemporary gallery in this country, you’ve got to pay to import the leading artists. How did you get into graffiti? I went to New York really early in ‘85, ‘86 with [street art documentary] “Bombin’” and it really blew my mind. I always look at the New York train system as the first internet... sending a message through the city like a smoke signal.
Open them doors, because Thailand is back in business! Maybe! The CCSA has proposed creating so-called travel bubbles with select countries across Asia-Pacific that seem to have the virus under control… except Australia and New Zealand, whose citizens are barred from leaving their countries until September… and possibly China, Thailand’s number-one inbound market, where unemployment is soaring and the virus is suddenly flaring again. Okay then.
CASUAL RACISM How many times have we railed against racism in Thailand? Don’t try to answer that. It will just hurt your brain. Still, here we are, calling out government-run bus companies and landmarks like Wat Pho for “no foreigners allowed” policies and lambasting local media, marketers and celebrities for perpetuating stereotypes against pretty much every ethnic and religious minority.
How has street art developed over the years? I think technology has allowed artists to look at what’s behind the sphere by moving it to create the idea—we just used hallucinogenics before! Does street art change when it’s put in a gallery setting? Street art will always remain on the street; it doesn’t mean it can’t adapt. A graffiti writer by default can adapt to any other type of art... because [graffiti] doesn’t have the same rules... I’ve seen so many things that are influenced by it, so why shouldn’t it stand up as it’s own thing? Will you feature any lesser known artists? We’ve got an artist called Matt Adams from Bristol, unknown. I love [his] work, I want to try and establish [him] as an artist. I wish somebody showed me [that] when I was a kid... Instead of history repeating itself, try and make an effect. [We also have] a paint shop with extractor units to provide a platform for the street artists who can’t afford the paint. How has your music changed since moving to Thailand?
Timeless [1995] is still a great album, because it simplified a coming of age time. When I moved to Phuket, I made Journey Man [2017]. There’s no descent in it, it’s actually more like the golden age—this is what music sounds like if you’re happy.* Angela Symons
DISAPPEARANCES Public holidays, disposable income, PM2.5, activists, press freedom across Southeast Asia: take your pick. Everything and everyone is disappearing these days. Even our patience for things like nearly four-monthlong lockdowns, autocracy and lack of social progress.
CONCRETE Bangkok is now home to what local authorities have billed “the world’s first garden bridge,” the Chao Phraya Skypark. Architects used old concrete pillars, left behind when Lavalin abandoned its skytrain project in 1992, to create a new green space for pedestrians. That’s a novel twist to the norm. I.e., developers removing green space to build super-exciting mixed-use projects (read: shopping malls).
*To read the full interview, visit bk.asia-city.co.th
BK READERS SHARE THEIR SHOTS OF BANGKOK STREET ART
Tag us @bkmagazine or #bkmagazine for a chance to be featured!
JECKS SHOT BY @HENRYRECKLESS
ROA SHOT BY @TRUE.HEO
RUKKIT SHOT BY @GJFORD2
hit list | shopping
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 26, 2020
05
Thailand’s largest Nike flagship hits Siam Center with customization service NEW OPENING
Say hello to Nike Bangkok, Thailand’s largest store yet from the sportswear giant. Spanning over 9,000 sq feet on the ground floor of Siam Center shopping mall, the new store not only showcases a curated selection of some of the freshest sports apparel and footwear, but also features the brand’s first in-store customization service in Thailand, “Nike By You.” Nike superfans looking for a personal styling experience can customize their T-shirts, sneakers and other accessories here, as well as get custom printing of Nike’s original designs and logos. For the launch of this service, Nike has teamed up with local artist and illustrator Jirayu Koo for exclusive graphics that can be printed on tees and tote bags. In addition, the flagship store also offers a head-to-toe apparel fitting service, where you can book one-on-one sessions with Nike’s running experts and style specialists to help choose the best items to suit your needs. G/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581180. Open daily 10am-9pm
[LEAN BACK]
Work from home in style with these office chairs
Lanic by SB Design Square B3,900 (from B5,600) sbdesignsquare.com
Hattefjall by IKEA B10,990 ikea.com
FG by Modernform B19,900 jd.co.th
Aeron by Herman Miller From B42,000 pergochairs.com
WOMENSWEAR
STREETWEAR
TECH
Marimekko and Uniqlo are back with their latest collab
Preduce and SBTG have teamed up to create an exclusive streetwear collection
The vacuum cleaner every modern neat freak needs
Building on the success of their two collaborative collections from 2018 and 2019, Finnish fashion and lifestyle label Marimekko and Uniqlo have teamed up once again. As an ode to Finnish summer, the Uniqlo x Marimekko Spring/Summer 2020 collection features Uniqlo’s LifeWear pieces adorned with some of Marimekko’s iconic prints, from Kivet (stones) designed by Maija Isola in 1956 to Annika Rimala’s 1965 Laine (wave) and 1968 Tasaraita (even stripe). Our favorite picks are the elegant tie-waist shirt dresses (B1,990) in Laine print. Available at Uniqlo stores nationwide.
One of this summer’s most exciting streetwear collabs, the Preduce x SBTG Target Practice collection designed by Mark Ong—or “Mr. Sabotage,” founder of Singaporean sneaker brand SBTG—features a set of six skateboard decks showcasing portraits of Preduce riders, plus a special Skull Coffin Cruiser deck featuring the artist’s “hidden in plain sight” design. You’ll also find a series of bold graphic tees, aloha shirts and five-panel camp caps. This collection marks the artist’s third collaboration with Preduce. Available at Preduce’s Siam Square store and online at preduce.com
Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht
BUY IT PANPURI “REVIVE ARUNAYOUTH HYDROGEN” SHEET MASK Goodbye dark spots and wrinkles, hello smooth and glowing skin; B1,500. Order at shop.panpuri.com
BIN IT “SEXY” RIPPED DENIM SHORTS They make us distressed.
What: Dyson V8 Slim Fluffy+ Price: B14,900 Why? Weighing just 2.1kg, this is Dyson’s lightest cordless vacuum cleaner yet. It comes with a fluffy cleaner head that is 40-percent smaller and lighter than its predecessor (the V8 Slim). Together with the powerful V8 digital motor and a new light-pipe crevice tool that can slip in between cramped spaces, its soft, anti-static black carbon filaments can pick up fine dust from hard floors and crevices. As for battery life, the vacuum can run up to 40 minutes in “powerful suction” mode. Available at dyson.co.th
SECONDHAND DR. MARTENS AT GUZDOCS BARGAIN Clean and in good condition, with a warranty and repair service, this shop offers a wide range of Docs at super affordable prices. Order via Instagram (@guzdocs)
cover | on the road
Time to Get Away
After a quarter of the year spent in quarantine, Thailand is open for business again. At least, it is if you live here. Aching to get out of town but wondering what that means mid-pandemic? The BK team hit the road this June to tell you what to expect when you travel.
The journey
The sights
We go the independent (read: broke as hell) route. Information concerning public transport to Hua Hin in early June is lacking, you could say. Trains? They might be running. The trip from Bangkok might also take up to six hours by train, so even if they are, we prefer to try our luck at the van depot. They’re running pretty much the same as usual. Meaning, we’re crammed into the back of a screaming metal death machine filled with passengers. We only have to provide our names and numbers on a piece of paper that eventually ends up in some official’s hands in rural Petchaburi province—no thermometers or check-in apps here. The van, however, remains a Faustian bargain: fast and cheap (B180/one way), but a roll of the dice when it comes to safety. Luckily, our driver isn’t on speed, so we make it to Hua Hin in three hours and, you know, alive. On the return trip, we catch a medium-sized bus for the same price that proves to be significantly less ass-puckering than the van but just as fast.
The shoreline is filled with Bangkok weekenders early in the morning and at sunset. The rest of the day, all five km of Hua Hin’s white sands remain delightfully empty, apart from the occasional banana boat on the horizon and a dozen or so kitesurfers in the water. With the Cicada Market closed until June 19, many of the seafood restaurants at the night market shuttered and officials still viewing bars as Covid magnets, we’re left with few options for activities at night other than buying snacks and beverages from the Gourmet Market in the Bluport mall and killing some brain cells as we binge-watch WWE reruns. Cool?
The digs It isn’t the Ritz, but our one-bedroom bungalow at Reera Resort (B1,000/night), an independent guesthouse set in the shadows of the Intercontinental Hua Hin, has everything we need: a balcony, convenient access to the wide, empty beach, Wi-Fi, and a handful of TV channels airing everything from Thai dramas to old professional wrestling matches. Opting out of the real world has rarely been so easy.
The vibe Pretty blissful. The few beach bar-restaurants open for business—Coco and Chon Sawang— serve what we’ll refer to as “frothy cappuccinos” for their sake. Chon Sawang also makes tasty tom kha (B90), crab in yellow curry powder (B120) and fried snapper (B350), the kind of food made for eating with your toes in the sand. Along the beach, we notice that many of the luxury resorts—Marriott, Intercontinental, Hyatt Regency—are doing good business. Decent weekends surely won’t make up for empty houses in the middle of the week, but it’s still early. As attractions like waterparks and watering holes reopen, we expect tourism will pick up soon. And with how rejuvenating this trip ends up being, we reckon we’ll return soon, too. Craig Sauers
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 26, 2020
The journey Getting to Chonburi is even easier than traveling to somewhere in the city. All we need is a car, Google Maps and an hour to spare (road trip playlist optional). Apart from when the navigation app tries to lead us to newly-constructed roads to heaven-knows-where, the ride is pretty pleasant. There’s no traffic, and we arrive at our destination without any transportation woes.
The digs The journey When Chiva-Som says they will offer complimentary round-trip pick-up and drop-off, we expect a typical hotel minivan, not a gleaming black Mercedes stocked with healthy snacks, flasks of cold water, hand sanitizer and face masks. But here we are, settled into an immaculate vehicle complete with plastic shields to separate us from the smartly-dressed driver (business suit and tie, plus sanitary gloves and face mask—the spitting image of a taxi driver in Japan). After a smooth three-hour journey out of Bangkok with hordes of other escapists, we arrive at the resort’s grand entrance, greeted by the Chiva-Som team, as well as the “new normal” associated with entering any public building. The famed wellness retreat takes its health and safety measures up a notch. There’s a ceiling-mounted temperature scanner and an automatic hand-sanitizer dispenser, as well as several de-sanitizing foot mats around the resort.
The digs Set on a secluded beach near Khao Takiab, the sprawling health resort stretches deep from the city’s main road all the way to the beach. We’re given a walking tour of the newly renovated facilities: from the sauna, steam room, plunge pools, Jacuzzis and treatment rooms to the gymnasium, dance and Pilates studios, re-functional studio and warm water private pool used for Watsu sessions, a form of water therapy that helps relax the body and mind. After a lengthy orientation, we’re shown our room, as well as another Covid-19 safety measure that consists of running a UV light contraption for an hour before guests enter their suites. Our abode—the 39-sq-meter Ocean Room Deluxe (B28,248 per night)—offers a terrace overlooking the beach and the resort’s palm trees and glistening outdoor pool. After three months of staring out at Bangkok’s gray urban sprawl, this is a feast for the eyes.
The activities Chiva-Som is all about its holistic wellness, and so we’re put through the ringer. But, like, in a good way. We’re offered a retreat option called the “Weight Management Program” (sure to be popular post-lockdown), which starts with a consultation with a wellness advisor and a comprehensive survey of our health before said advisor arranges a health and wellness regime for the rest of our stay. Think 50-minute detox massages focused on the stomach, which help ease digestion problems, constipation, bloating and reduce cellulite; 50-minute “super stretch” sessions performed on us by a personal trainer; 50-minute reflexology sessions; and three wellness meals per day, all of which come with nutritional information, too.
The vibe It feels like we’re living in Spike Jonze’s “Her”—a utopian universe where all humanity’s physical problems seem to have been solved. Everyone is happy, well-fed and here to get well. With all the health and safety precautions to protect guests from Covid-19 and spacious facilities making social distancing an inevitability, it feels like Chiva-Som is the safest place in the world right now. We can’t even find a reason to leave the resort grounds. Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
We decide to stay at the low-rise hotel/apartment The Grass Serviced Suites, located in South Pattaya, which is awfully convenient if you want to move around the town. A spacious two-bedroom suite here comes with full facilities—gym, swimming pool, Wi-Fi, amenities and two smart TVs transmitting everything from Japanese and Korean reality shows to Indian soap operas. With the help of a hotel booking website, we get the room, with breakfast for three, for only B1,930/night.
The sights Pattaya without nightclubs? No big deal, we’ve got a slew of cafes to visit. Recently, we’ve seen photos of people picnicking on the beach floating around Instagram, so we visit the Cocobeach Cafe to rent their picnic basket set (B690; includes sandwiches, fizzy drinks, a tea tumbler, a gingham tablecloth and plastic tulips), then we hit the beach for some pics. The next day, we hop over to Koh Larn with a speed boat (roughly 15 minutes from Bali Hai Pier; B300/person), hanging out and watching people at Tawaen Beach for a good hour. We fuel up with some khao gaeng (from B89) at The Rice Pot, which offers over 30 side dishes to choose from (think deep-fried pork belly, green curry chicken and deep-fried tofu larb). On our way back to the city, we make a stop at the Grand Canyon of Chonburi. Though Google Maps takes us to an unnamed road, again, we eventually arrive without a scratch, get our body temperature checked and soak up the breath-taking sights.
The vibe Chonburi and Pattaya are no ghost towns, so expect to get that hustling and bustling vibe but in a (weirdly) calmer way. As for how they are coping with the virus, malls like Central Festival Pattaya and some restaurants are taking policies seriously, except it seems like social distancing has left the chat. However, there are cops with giant German shepherds patrolling the beach, encouraging visitors to wear a mask when they’re not taking selfies. Supanan Anansuviroj
07
cover | on the road
The journey Uncle Jeab, our We’re greeted by the amicable and down-to-earth His backyard, abode. lovely his of front in day, the for “backyard guide” that dates to ance however, happens to be a canal of historical signific driving his be would Jeab Uncle the Thonburi period. Typically, though, g how Knowin . station Wa Bang BTS at up you aqua-green Subaru to pick before you for ready water cool some have would he be, hot Bangkok can boarding the canal boat, too.
The journey In our surprisingly pocket-friendly Grab taxi from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi (B1,260) in early June, we breeze past a couple of checkpoints where the guards seem more interested in scrolling social media than stopping cars. Hungry for a challenge, we elect to take the train back (B25 Thai/B100 foreigner)—a decision we instantly regret as we’re divulging our entire life story on the lengthy Ticket Purchase Request and T8 Health forms required of us. On board, there are still plenty of spots available, despite the social distancing crosses marking every other seat. On the flip side, wearing a mask for three hours without air con is not the ideal end to our otherwise relaxing trip.
The digs Perched on the water’s edge, the industrial-chic X2 River Kwai is a breath of fresh air after months cooped up in a Bangkok apartment. Though we feel a tinge of envy as we watch the guests in the floating cabins (from B5,600/night with Champagne breakfast when booked in advance) take to the water on their personal kayaks, our private flying sun deck and uninterrupted views of the river at sunrise in the 103-sq-meter Luxe Cabin Suite (from B9,700) more than make up for it. As we take advantage of the free kayaks and paddle boards before hopping in the river-facing infinity pool, the QR readers and temperature guns of Bangkok feel like a distant memory. Topped off with tasty Thai and Western food at The Bridge Bar & Restaurant, this is the perfect place to get away from it all.
The sights Heading into town, we find that around half of the restaurants and almost all of the bars are closed, though we’re disproportionately excited to find a spot serving special juice. A quick whip around JJ Night Market is enough to put us off eating there. Alarm bells sound when we’re waved through the temperature checkpoint after measuring an an icy 33 degrees, and only grow louder as we descend into the swarm of masked shoppers surrounding the plasticwrapped stalls. Over at the photogenic Meena Cafe—the only place where we encounter a sign-in system—we’re entertained by Instagrammers attempting to get “that shot” on the rice paddy walkway while wearing medical masks and bamboo hats. The neighboring Wat Tham Sua is photogenic and crowded as ever, with most visitors wearing masks. Meanwhile, the infamous Death Railway is eerily lacking in flag-bearing packs of neon-clad tourists. Although the national parks remain closed, the Giant Raintree offers a splash of greenery, albeit surrounded by day-trippers and fronted by a temperature check.
The vibe Kanchanaburi is sleepy at the best of times, but without the B10 bars it’s practically comatose— ideal if you’re looking to zone out for the weekend. Bar closures aside, it seems visitors have not been deterred by the pandemic and the resort was fairly full; in fact, you could almost trick yourself into believing Covid was never a thing. Almost. Angela Symons
The digs who owns and At the canal, we meet Brother Mote, a middle-aged man hop aboard, we Once roof. d -colore Skittles a with boat il drives a long-ta classic Thai a of Uncle Jeab hands us some liquid refreshment in the form of alcohol? fan a Not ly. perfect lager. We can tell Uncle Jeab has pegged us along scuttle we As too. cooler, ice the in Don’t worry: there’s OJ stocked start we drinks, cold sipping spray, canal with doused get the water and to get a taste of authentic canal life.
The sights we spot locals We start at the Khlong Bang Luang community, where making their en boatm fellow and s terrace de hanging out at their canalsi shore. Uncle the line s garden herb and ble Vegeta water. the way along dinner after for home Jeab tells us we can take some of the fresh greens during the built am, Orosar Ratcha the trip. We make our way to Wat cture, archite temple e Chines and Thai of mix a with reign of King Rama III Garden, a ai Poomj at pier the by ce entran grand a make before we trees. Their tranquil cafe-slash-garden in Thonburi famous for its lychee on pickafterno late t pleasan a is take on the orange Americano (B130) check to n Charoe Phasi m Pakna Wat to over me-up before we shuttle back to the dating s artifact al historic and s antique rare of on out its collecti late Ayutthaya period.
The vibe and spontaneous. Very local, educational without feeling aggressively so, for would be an ed bargain we than more is nce experie To say that the enjoy Uncle ghly understatement. The local community seems to thorou for three area the in lived has Jeab’s presence, and Uncle Jeab, who has bags also He doing. he’s what loves ely decades, looks like he genuin only The new. ing someth learn might you so dge, knowle of historical friends foreign our downside is the dual pricing—Thais pay B900, while tr Sriyananda are charged B1,500. Call 081-812-4019 to book. Veerabha
food & drink | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020
09
HOT OFF THE PASS
Bo.lan to close, leaving a new concept in its wake
END OF AN ERA
Over the past decade, Bo.lan has redefined Bangkok’s restaurant scene with its ancient Thai recipes and hardcore commitment to keeping it local. After what has been a tumultuous start to the year for the restaurant industry, it has been announced that the Thai fine-dining institution will not be returning—at least, not as we know it. On Jul 3, Bo.lan’s beautiful house on Sukhumvit Soi 53 will become home to three new concepts: Bolan Grocer, selling dry goods, natural wine and fresh vegetables; sister restaurant Err, which will be relocating from Chinatown; and an exclusive Bo.lan-inspired chef’s table with only two seatings per week, charged at a flat rate of B30,000—regardless of whether you are a table of two or twelve. The new communal set up will also include Wasteland, a sustainably-minded “sipping space.” The move will mean relinquishing Bo.lan’s Michelin Star rating—something co-owners Dylan Jones and Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava, seem little concerned about. “These accolades haven’t meant much to us for a long time. It’s great to get recognized but… I don’t think [Michelin is] structured in a way that supports our industry... it has turned into a corporate entity,” says Dylan, who believes that forming supportive local communities is more important in ensuring Thailand’s F&B industry will survive without international visitors. Bo.lan’s CSA boxes will still be available to order every Wednesday, while their pinto meals will be available for delivery every Saturday.
HOLY WATER
SPECIAL DELIVERY
MAMMA MIA
This Thai-made tonic water is now available outside of bars
Have gourmet meals delivered to your door with this new service
Mia reopens with a continent-hopping menu
One of the first tonics produced entirely in Thailand, the bartender-favorite Nammon is now available for direct purchase and delivery across Bangkok. The boutique tonic is made with 10 different botanicals, including somsaa (bitter orange) grown on small farms in Nonthaburi. That yuzu-like fruit gives it a clean citrus aroma and subtle bitterness, while higher carbonation amplifies the aroma of the spirit that it’s paired with and extends the length of your drink. Nammon is available via Facebook, Line and Instagram (all @nammonmixers; B550/12 bottles).
Want to upgrade your dinner tonight? Check out Top Tables Kitchen, our brand-new food delivery platform. We’ve brought together some of Bangkok’s top restaurants, like Aesop’s, Baan, Ginza Tenharu and Taan—all places you’ll find in our annual Top Tables guide to fine dining in Bangkok—to turn home dinners into special occasion dining. Soon, you’ll be able to order more than just tasty meals, too. Expect gourmet deli items, organic vegetables, wines, chef’s recommendations and more. Visit toptables.asia/kitchen for details.
Culinary power couple Top Russell and Michelle Goh are back with a new seasonal tasting menu (B2,550) at Mia Restaurant. Across eight courses, the pair weave together their European culinary training with their Asian heritage in dishes like kombu-cured hake with cauliflower and earthy shiitake chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard) with fermented mushroom and shaved black truffle. Wine pairing is available from B1,650, though you can also enjoy cocktails like the tequila-based Casa del Fumo (B390). 30 Attha Kawi Soi 1, 02-258-6745. Open Tue-Sun 6-11:30pm
MAKE HAY Thonburi’s anti-plastic waste crusader, Lessplasticable, has opened a new farm-to-table cafe, shop and refill station at Uncle Ree Organic Farm in Wongwian Yai. Head to Less:Plastic:Uncle to shop for organic eggs, fruit and vegetables and eco bulk refill items before chilling with a cup of kombucha in the plant-filled cafe. Open Sat-Sun, 10am-8pm
COMEBACK KING Gaggan Anand is back with new pocket-friendly menus following the lockdown closures. As the restaurant shifts its focus away from international guests and ingredients, its B8,000 25-course menu has been temporarily replaced by 15-course (B4,000) and 18-course (B5,000) options. Better yet, they’re now serving an eight-course lunch on weekends for just B2,000. Try it while you can.
HOP TO IT Charoenkrung has welcomed yet another cute spot for cafe hoppers: Blackwood Cafe & Studio. Occupying a charmingly faded brick shophouse filled with vintage wooden furnishings on Charoenkrung Soi 71, the homey opening is gearing up to serve pizzas and to launch a photo gallery on the second floor. Stay tuned.
CAMERA EATS FIRST
Want to be featured in BK? Tag us @bkmagazine or hashtag #bkmagazine
@CHARLOTTECHOUU AT CARNE
@CHUBBYNHUNGRY AT ROSSANO’S
@AROIFUDFUD AT CHATA
food & drink | open door
Kyoto’s hip minimalist coffee shop makes its mark at IconSiam The buzz: After a year of teasers, Arabica, Kyoto’s specialty coffee empire, has finally made its Thailand debut. Founded in 2014 by lifelong coffee enthusiast Kenneth Shoji, the popular chain currently has 58 outlets in 14 countries including Thailand. The decor: Stationed at Charoen Nakhon’s glitzy IconSiam megamall, the sleek cafe adheres to the clean, minimalist script with its white-tiled floor and mirrored ceiling. Representing coffee cherries on a branch, the brand’s iconic “%” signage ushers you inside, where white counters are topped with bespoke, wood-clad coffee machines. Look beyond those and you’ll find two Tornado King coffee roasters proudly whirring away behind glass walls. A floating bean cellar displaying jute sacks lines the upper walls, while down below the seating area consists of white leather stools. The drinks: Choose between the nutty and floral Arabica blend, high in sweetness when featured in a latte, creating a chocolate and caramel-like taste, or the fresh and fruity Single Origin blend. Both are available in everything
from espresso-based coffee (espresso, macchiato, Americano, latte, Spanish latte) to filter coffee brewed with a Chemex. For those new to the hype, we recommend the latte (B130 house blend/ B145 single origin) and the unique Spanish latte (B150-180 hot/B180 iced), made with condensed milk. Not keen on coffee but want to see what all the fuss is about? Opt for the matcha latte (B150170 hot/B180 iced) or lemonade (B150 still/B170 sparkling). The crowd: Well-heeled coffee aficionados, neophiles and fancy pants. Why we’d come back: We were relieved to find that the taste of the coffee justifies the hype and we love watching (and smelling) the beans being freshly roasted onsite. The shop also provides a pretty Insta-worthy backdrop, if you’re seeking fodder for your feed. Veerabhatr Sriyananda 1/F, Iconsiam, 299 Charoen Nakhon Rd. Open daily 10am-9pm
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 26, 2020
11
Phuket’s Shake Shack-style burgers hit Sukhumvit
Giglio
NEW AND NOTED
A Thai chef’s table from Le Du’s chef Ton overlooking Wat Pho
Bangkok’s vegan The Peppina team scene levels up with returns with a Tuscan this plant-based diner restaurant in Sathorn
Named after their late grandmother, Nusara by Le Du’s chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn and his two brothers sits hidden atop Ton’s recent opening, Mayrai Padthai. Inside, the action centers on the orchid-dotted chef’s table, which can seat up to 10 people. Small, creative Thai bites fill the 12-course tasting menu (soft opening: B1,990), like thinly sliced squid with lemongrass and chili; lump crab curry served over crispy betel leaf and topped with local caviar; and Nusara’s signature dish of lingeringly spicy wagyu pad kaprao. The restaurant accepts one seating per night for six-to-10 people, starting at 5:30pm. 2/F, 22 Maharaj Rd., 081432-4050
Fo u n d e d by h u s b a n d a n d w i fe duo Mika Apichatsakol and Gareth Sheehan—both longtime adherents of plant-based diets—Bangkok City Diner serves vegan comfort food in the shadows of BTS Chong Nonsi. Inside a cool blue-and-purple, American diner-like space, the couple serves globe-spanning, plant-based mains, sides and sweets, like tom yum mac and cheese (tom yum-flavored vegan macaroni and cheese topped with cilantro, B180); spicy, Malay-style laksa (B220); homemade lasagne with slow-cooked vegan ragu and homemade vegan mozzarella, (B240); and vegan tiramisu (B160). 42 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 084-720-1992
Chefs Manuelo Pintore and Paolo Vitaletti join forces at Giglio, a classiclooking Tuscan trattoria on Sathorn 12. The restaurant focuses on the traditional home cooking of Italy’s largest region in stellar dishes like pici al ragu di salsiccia (hand-rolled pasta tossed in sausage and porcini ragu B360); la ribollita (B220), a hearty soup of beans, black kale, vegetables and Tuscan bread; and arista (B380), a roasted pork rack served with aromatic rosemary potatoes. Expect Tuscan wines, from rose to red, like the crisp Sauvignon Vioner il Blanco 2018 (B255/glass). 149 Sathorn Soi 12, 088-923-0961
Halfway between Asoke and Phrom Phong, Phuket import Prime Burger (497 Sukhumvit Rd., 093-583-8700) TABLE notTALK only bears a logo similar to beloved Caffè NY-based Olivesburger chain Shake Shack, it also busts out remarkably 4 Napha Sap Soi 2, 06-1613-9588. familiar-looking patties. Burgers (all Open daily 9am-6pm. B245 single/B295 double/B375 triple) areOlives stylized byadjacent city, from thebakery, classic cafe and casual toCaffè is the sister New York (Australian beef, cheese, go pizzeria at L'OLIVA Ristorante Italiano & Wine Bar. Often onions, has pickles, ketchup and mayo) described having an “upscale deli” vibe, the cafe has to the Dubai chicken burger sweets and thesuch as cannoli and Italian influences and traditional Tokyo deep-fried fish burger. Veggies gelato. They are dedicated to local ingredients and seasonal can opt for the halloumi-based Aiya menus. The hits at Caffè Olives are their (Roman-style) Napa, while vegans are covered with naturally leavened pizza by the slice, whipped ricotta with the Beyond Burger (from B245). Sides homemade strawberry jam on sourdough range from waffle fries (B130) to chili- toast, rosemary (Thai Arabica) cold brew, and organic lemonade. cheese poppers (B110) and Caesar salads (B110).
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount 01 Jul ’20 – 30 Jun ’21
food & drink | open door
South Philly
Draft Land
NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK
JHOL 7/2 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-004-7174. Open daily 6-10pm. A contemporary southern coastal Indian restaurant in the heart of Sukhumvit, Jhol specializes in the like of bhel puri (puffed rice and vegetable chaat; B290) served in a wooden som tam khrok and ghee (Indian clarified butter) roast chicken with crispy cone dosa (B520). You’ll also find exotic, Thaileaning cocktails like Mehkong whiskey with torched bite-size kanom jak (B380), as well as mocktails like a refreshing mix of lychee, elderflower, lime, cucumber topped with champa flower-scented foam (B180).
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount on food only 01 Jun ’20 – 31 Jul ’21
This cheesesteak This cocktails-on-tap This chicken delivery specialist brings concept is finally concept comes from Philadelphia’s best to serving in Sala Daeng Appia’s owners Bangkok Arriving in Bangkok by way of Taipei From the owners of Appia and Peppina, Available Fri-Sun only for now, South Philly is spreading the gospel of Philadelphia’s finest comfort food: cheesesteak. Spearheaded by Chandler Schultz, formerly of Le Cochon Blanc, the delivery-only restaurant uses homemade hoagie rolls and top-grade ingredients, like Australian Angus ribeye and real Wisconsin cheddar, to produce classic cheesesteaks (B220). The limited menu also features eggplant parmesan (fried eggplant, mozzarella, marinara and fresh basil on a hoagie roll, B190) and sides like fresh coleslaw (B75), French fries (B90) and mini key lime pies (B90). Order by calling 083-469-4029 from 11:30am9pm every Fri-Sun.
and Hong Kong, Draft Land is now open for business. The bar occupies a prime spot by the floor-to-ceiling window on the second level of the Commons Sala Daeng, where they pour 10-plus different cocktails and mocktails on draft for remarkably affordable prices (B250 each). Those include the Silver Fizz (gin, dill, lychee, lime and soda), the Oolong Tea Collins (vodka, rum, oolong tea, elderflower, lime and soda) and the Fake White (aloe juice, jin xuan tea, mangosteen and lime). The Commons, 30 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 062-505-2552
delivery-only concept Pollo is all about juicy, free range rotisserie chicken sourced from Klong Phai Farms (half B450/whole B850). Pair your meal with sides like mac and cheese (B350), Carbonara Caesar salad (B275), roast potatoes or creamed spinach (B150 each). Other comforting mains include a classic, all-American chicken parm sandwich (B290)—deep-fried chicken cutlets slathered in tomato sauce, melted mozzarella and parmesan all sandwiched in a toasted baguette. Available from 11am-9:30pm daily via Line (@pollobyappia), phone (02-2612056), Grab and Foodpanda.
food & drink | taste test
Which protein bar tastes the best? We’ve been hibernating in our houses for so long that it’s a struggle to get off the couch. If you’re yet to revisit your pre-paid CrossFit class, then these on-the-go energy boosters could be the workout buddies you so desperately need. But which one tastes the best? We put six protein bars from around the world to the test to find out. By BK Staff
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 26, 2020
Carman’s The brand: This Australian-owned brand is known for usWinner! ing all-natural ingredients in its products. The taste: Loaded with nuts and cranberries in every bite, this gluten-free bar truly stands out from the pack. Not too sweet or artificial, it would make the perfect camping snack. In the words of mama Ru, “You’re a winner, baby.” Protein content: 7.5g/45g Flavor: Almond, Cashew and Cranberry (B72) Verdict: Protein bar realness Available at Villa Market
Rude Health The brand: This LondonRunner based health food compaUp! ny is known for its cereals and dairy-free milks. The taste: Though this naturally sweet, peanutty bar is a little leathery and hard to swallow, the more we chew it, the more it makes us salivate, and the aftertaste is strangely moreish. We can see ourselves enjoying the entire bar. Protein content: 4.9g/35g Flavor: The Peanut (B83) Verdict: Late bloomer Available at Villa Market
RxBar The brand: Two friends from Chicago set out to make a truly nutritious protein bar in 2012 and the rest is history. The taste: With clean and modern packaging, this enticing sea salt-sprinkled bar looks almost like a brownie. Its tough, elasticky texture requires some jaw work but flavors of nuts, dates and cacao nibs indicate that it is genuinely good for you. We sure feel like we could hit the gym after eating it. Protein content: 12g/52g Flavor: Chocolate Sea Salt (B119)
Verdict: No BS Available at Villa Market
Promax The brand: This Pennsylvania-born company has been busting out nutritious bars since 1996. The taste: As soon as we put it in our mouths, we’re reminded of the peanutty taste and crunchy texture of toob tub (Thai smashed peanut). The bar itself is hefty enough to be a meal supplement, placing it on the verge of being the opposite of a guilt-free bar. Protein content: 20g/75g Flavor: Nutty Butter Crisp (B129) Verdict: Large and in charge Available at Villa Market
Mars The brand: The mastermind behind this crowd-pleasing treat is Forrest Mars, who modeled it after his father’s Milky Way bar. The taste: It looks exactly like the original Mars bar and tastes pretty much the same too, but on the grainier and saltier side. The decadent flavor of nougat and caramel has us wondering if this bar really is healthy or not. Protein content: 10g/50g Flavor: 40 percent less sugar (B129) Verdict: Life on Mars? Available at Villa Market
Go On The brand: Born in Poland, healthy food company Sante deals in everything from whey protein powder to oat flakes. The taste: If you’re a Bounty fanatic, then this tropical treat is for you. Tasty as it may be, it’s way too sweet for our liking and the shredded coconut is somewhat overwhelming. Protein content: 15g/50g Flavor: Coconut and Milk Chocolate (B69) Verdict: Bounty hunter Available at Villa Market
13
feature | cemented in time
Fading Glory Indra Regent Hotel
Indra Regent Hotel Neighborhood: Pratunam Yet another masterpiece from Chira Silpakanok, the Indra Regent Hotel was one of Bangkok’s most important landmarks in the ’70s. After many delays in the construction process, the hotel finally opened its doors in late 1971 in bustling shopping district Pratunam. The 500-room hotel is built up to the fourth floor in the form of a parallelogram, while the fifth to the 17th floors shoot up in a cubicle structure showcasing a unique, modernist facade. Meanwhile, the interior and inside-facilities are equally impressive: a majestic lobby, complete with marble floors and pillars from Italy; a chandelier made up of more than 2,800 bulbs hanging from the ceiling of the mezzanine; a first-floor shopping center; a 910-seat performance theater; and a cocktail lounge overlooking the garden. Though Indra’s glitz and glamor have disappeared over time, for architecture buffs, it remains an urban gem. 120/126 Ratchaprarop Rd. BTS Phayathai
From glorious Art Deco structures and quirky skyscrapers to remnants of old colonial beauty, Bangkok is home to myriad architectural masterpieces from decades gone by. Here are seven landmark buildings that still define the cityscape today. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
Robot Building Neighborhood: Sathorn When the Bank of Asia approached architect Sumet Jumsai to design its new headquarters to reflect the computerized future of banking, he drew inspiration from his son’s toy robot. Jumsai wanted the building to be a reaction against neoclassical and high-tech postmodern architecture, which he called “a protest movement which seeks to replace without offering a replacement.” To achieve the robot appearance, certain floors within the 20-story building were decreased to create a staggered shape, while decorative features were added to the exterior, like the sleepy-lidded eyeballs made of reflective glass, nuts made of glass-reinforced concrete and two antennas on the roof, used for communication masts and lightning rods. Now the headquarters of United Overseas Bank, the building was completed in 1986 and is considered one of the most recognizable structures in the city. It was also later selected as one of the 50 seminal buildings of the century by the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles. 191 South Sathorn Rd. BTS Chong Nonsi
The architect drew inspiration from his son’s toy robot
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 26, 2020
15
Sathorn Unique Tower Neighborhood: Sathorn Sathorn Unique, the infamous building left unfinished during the Tom Yam Kung economic crisis in 1997, has long been a draw for adventurous travelers and architecture buffs. The so-called “Ghost Tower” was designed by architect and real estate developer Rangsan Torsuwa—who also designed the golden-domed State Tower—to be Bangkok’s most luxurious condo, with 600 units as well as jewelry shops on the lower levels. Like the State Tower, Sathorn Unique was built in the neoclassical style and features curved columns and balconies. While the building’s core structure was 80-90 percent finished, interior and infrastructure work have remained mostly incomplete. Twenty-three years after the crisis, and despite being in a state of disrepair, it still attracts tourists looking to score a rooftop shot. It also doubles as a massive billboard. Charoenkrung Rd. BTS Saphan Taksin
ART HUB Graffiti artists and Instagrammers flock to the Ghost Tower
NightingaleOlympic
Scala Theatre
Grand Postal Building
Customs House
Neighborhood: Wang Burapha-Phahurat
Neighborhood: Siam
Neighborhood: Bangrak
Neighborhood: Charoenkrung
If Siam Square is a melting pot for Bangkok teenagers today, then in the 1960s it was the Nightingale-Olympic. Founded in 1930 by Nat Niyomvanich, it was Thailand’s first department store and, somewhat surprisingly, it’s still in business. Its gloomy, time-worn façade hardly draws crowds now, but judging by its striking brutalist exterior, it must have been ahead of its time in contrast to the shophouses in the neighborhood. With its “Hub of Sporting Goods, King of Musical Instruments, Queen of Cosmetics” slogan, Nightingale was the center of shopping. In its heyday, you would find stationery, clothes, cosmetics, lingerie, sports equipment and musical instruments, many of which were imported from America and Europe, as well as a beauty salon dedicated to the Merle Norman brand. Today, the multi-story, non-air conditioned mall is run by Aroon Niyomvanich, Nat’s younger sister, and is seemingly stuck in a time warp, displaying retro-kitsch products and time-worn mannequins that are a little creepy, to say the least.
Built in 1967, the iconic, Art Deco Scala cinema was designed by architect Chira Silpakanok to be the most luxurious theater of its time. It opened its doors on Dec 31, 1969, with “The Undefeated,” an American Western and Civil War action-drama starring John Wayne and Rock Hudson. Fast-forward to today, the space might be timeworn, but the grandeur hasn’t faded. The name Scala means “stairs” in Italian, hence the dramatic flight of stairs you have to climb to reach the Art Deco atrium with its vaulted ceiling, glittering chandelier and retro ticket booths. It’s the last standalone single-screen cinema in Thailand, but the end might be near for the historic movie theater. It has been rumored that the cinema will cease operations and let other businesses rent the space for activities or screening special films until the current lease with landlord Chulalongkorn University expires at the end of 2020.
Walking around the spacious terrace of the Grand Postal Building will give you major European communist vibes, thanks to its brutalist architecture. Think exposed bricks, a subdued monochrome palette and imposing Garuda sculptures. Opened in 1940 on the former site of the British Embassy, the building was designed by architects Phrasarot Ratnanimman and Jitrasen Aphaiwong in a mixture of Art Deco and International Style architecture, a major movement that emerged in the 1920s and 1930s. Today, the building functions as a post office and is also home to the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC). It’s also a popular backdrop for pre-graduation and Instagram photoshoots. While you’re there, be sure to head up to the free-access rooftop space on the 5th floor to take some cool snaps of Charoenkrung from above.
This 130-year-old landmark on the banks of the Chao Phraya was built in 1888 as part of King Rama V’s modernization of Siam. It was designed by Italian architect Joachim Grassi in the neo-Palladian style and considered one of the most advanced examples of Western architecture of its time. In addition to serving as a customs office that collected taxes on inbound and outbound cargo, the building served as a venue for parties attended by members of the royal family and their distinguished foreign guests. The building was also part of celebrations held when H.M. King Chulalongkorn returned to Bangkok after his first visit to Europe. In 1959, the Customs House was repurposed into the Bang Rak Fire Station. Currently, the building is closed and remains in a state of disrepair. It was announced in late 2019, however, that the Treasury Department had teamed up with U City Public Company Limited to begin restoration of the landmark, aiming to turn it into a luxury riverside hotel to open in 2025.
70 Tri Phet Rd. MRT Sam Yot
Siam Square Soi 1. BTS Siam
2 Charoenkrung Rd. Si Phraya Pier
(Rong Phasi Roi Chak Sam)
37 Charoenkrung Rd. Oriental Pier
SCAN TO ORDER Visit toptables.asia/kitchen/menus