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NO. 788 AUGUST 28, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com

Do you hear the people sing?

The Politics of Food

Do we know where our food comes from? Do we even care?

food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

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page 3

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Craig Sauers Deputy Editor Angela Symons Audience Development Specialist Nontaya Kumyat Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Veerabhatr Sriyananda Junior Writer Supanan Anansuviroj Contributor Megan Leon

Uncle Jeab talks tourism and life along the canals in Thonburi

Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Photographer Poonsawat Suttama

Heir to energy drink empire turns to trafficking to elevate profile

Chief Commercial Officer Jane Bay Product Marketing Manager Madeleine Anantasuk Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

05 cover

Why we need to rethink our food systems now

SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associate Palita Nueangnit Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Kanicha Nualkhair

open door

“That said,” she continued, “should public sentiment turn against him, we are prepared to outwardly disown him via a carefully worded press release.”

Mediterra

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)

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Shortly after his post went live, Boonsong was seen revving his Porsche in front of a luxury shopping mall in Phrom Phong, handing out cans of Blue Ox through the window to surprised passersby who neither expected nor even wanted his energy drink. Witnesses also reported seeing him furiously wiping his nose, licking his teeth and readjusting his midnight-black sunglasses as he scanned the audience, looking for cameras. Shouting over the mechanical roar of his 4.0 L V8 engine, Boonsong admitted feeling only mildly concerned that the recent student-led protests were overshadowing his debut in the amphetamines trade. He then floated the possibility of driving his Porsche into the crowds “to make a really big splash.” “Pro-government side, anti-government side: doesn’t matter to me, as long as the cameras are rolling,” he added.

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2020 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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“For too long I’ve been kept in the shadows of the Boss,” he said, referring to the heir of a similarly named energy drink, who has managed to get away with murder while living it up in London over the past eight years. “But I tell you what: I can commit as outrageous, as shocking, as fame-generating of a crime as anything that jackwagon can do. I can out-crime anyone. That is why I’ve entered into an arrangement with some of the world’s most prominent cartels, who will be supplying me with products you will soon find in the bathrooms of the most exclusive clubs in Thonglor and Ekkamai.” Representatives of Boonsong’s family were generally optimistic following the announcement. “We’re in wait-andsee mode,” said family spokesman Jiraporn Jutinan. “We’ve always been supportive of Boonsong’s endeavors, and we have full confidence that he will be able to boost our image and increase our market share through his latest initiative. We look forward to tipping the scales of the duopoly.”

Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Bangkok, Thailand—Expressing dismay at “always playing second fiddle,” Boonsong Wansook, scion of the Blue Ox energy drink brand, announced on TikTok today his intentions to dabble in the trafficking of class A and B drugs to elevate his personal profile as well as the status of his family’s guaranafueled empire.

neighborhood

Lad Phrao

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

HOT OR NOT

This Thonburi local is encouraging Bangkokians to explore his backyard

DAY DRINKING As anyone who is still working from home will attest: it isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. Not after six months of doing it. Maybe that’s why more people are turning to alternative working sites. For example, Thonglor’s cocktail dens, as one of 2019’s coolest new bars, 008, is launching a daytime “work from the bar” package. Just make sure to pace yourself before your Zoom calls.

BOAT PARTIES The clubs are closely under watch, so the parties have gone seaward. Fueled by electronic music, boat parties on the river have become increasingly popular. Even without noting that one sank like the Titanic set to the score of Armin Van Buuren, we can’t see the appeal. Hundreds of people crammed onto the deck, lining up to pee, breathing in the fresh Chao Phraya breeze? No thanks.

INTERVIEW

Known in his neighborhood as Uncle Jeab, eccentric Thonburi local Jumpol Kunakorn relishes showing visitors around his backyard, which just so happens to be Khlong Bang Khun Sri, a historic canal dating back to the Ayutthaya period. With a cold beer in hand, we hopped on a longtail to gain insight on his life and community, with a side order of life coaching.

CONTEST TIME!

What did you do before starting your local tour business?

How are your tours different from “regular” tours?

I’m 62 years old now. When I was 24, I was a salesman for Unilever, working up the professional ladder until I became a sales manager. I had to travel around a lot, and I realized that this was something I liked... You start to become familiar with the people that you encounter along the way...and build relationships with [them].

Usually, tourists who want to take a boat tour find an operator along the Chao Phraya and don’t learn much about the history and the significance of the places they pass by. In the past, there were many fruit farms and herb gardens along the network of canals. Despite gentrification and the building of roads and highways, some of these still exist, and we stop so that visitors can buy vegetables and herbs to take home. I want the locals to [continue] growing their own fruits and vegetables here sustainably instead of this priceless land being replaced by shopping malls or property projects.

How long have you been a local guide? I’ve been doing this informally for about 10 years. [When] I retired around five years ago… I started to consider what I really wanted to do. It was then that I started taking classes to become a [licensed] guide. [As a guide,] I can use all my experiences from the day I was born until today to make my tomorrows better. What do you love about your job? I can personally see how locals can benefit from “backyard” tourism because more income is spread—the boatman gets some extra cash, the riverside minimart gets more income from me buying beers. It helps to strengthen and embrace the community. Before, the locals were accustomed to the same obsolete things they see every day, the same people, same set of houses, and the dwindling amount of canalside shops. They like it more now that they are a part of an eye-opening experience for outsiders. It’s these little things that make me feel truly fulfilled, to see my neighbors happy from what I’m doing. What matters most to me is to have people know more about genuine local communities like Thonburi.

Want to be featured on our IG and win awesome prizes, too? Send us your most creative photos of your copy of BK Magazine to stand a chance to win a free dinner during BK Restaurant Week!

What are some of the difficulties that you’ve faced as a guide? I had to sharpen up my English. The next challenge was to win over the locals because they doubted what I was doing at first. At first, they thought I was crazy, so it took me a couple of years for things to run smoothly as they are now. How has your business been affected by the pandemic? I personally think that we can turn problems into opportunities. Right now, all the long-tailed boats are parked along the canalside; it’s not like they can go back to business by just a snap of the fingers. We have to find ways to adapt to the “new normal” and consider the safety of travelers. Even if I have no travelers now, I am aware of how to adapt to the changes that can potentially happen in the future. Veerabhatr Sriyananda

SYMBOLISM Cartoon hamsters, child wizards, hand gestures Jennifer Lawrence made popular. It seems gone are the days of traditional protest. Generation Z is teaching us a lot of lessons—like how to use TikTok, for starters—but one of the biggest is that you can get across a clear and powerful message in clever ways, without burning cars, trashing businesses or (literally) blowing whistles.

SOUP Although not without precedent—hello, Crystal Pepsi!—it’s still hard to believe that just one awful food product can crush a company. But history repeats itself: the Japanese owner of Family Mart has transferred its 49 percent stake in its Thai venture to Central Group, marking a full retreat from the market. The reason for its failure, according to execs? The massive flop of its Japanese oden stew.

Show us what you’ve got! Tag us @bkmagazine #bkmagazine.

cover | breaking the chain

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

Food for Thought Do we know where our food comes from? Do we even care? With borders closed, supply chains disrupted, and restaurants pushed to the brink because of the pandemic, we have an opportunity to examine the flaws in our food systems. Here’s where we should be looking. By Megan Leon

Reconsidering the food supply chain This pandemic has had a side effect that you might not have noticed. As the virus spreads and countries close borders, the systems that deliver your food have likewise gone into lockdown, exposing near-complete dependence on unhealthy choices: foreign goods and fossil fuels. The globalized food supply chain has always been a ticking time bomb. As food systems have moved away from the latticework of local suppliers towards the efficiencies of centralized production and supermarket distribution, whole civilizations have become so detached from the basic production and shipment of food that most of us are unaware where our meals and ingredients come from, how they are being transported, or even how many hands have handled them. When the pandemic spread across the globe, the paper-thin margins in our current systems were exposed. We now see just how dependent we have become on over-specialized production, stretched supply chains and limited retail options. Let alone how the decisions our officials make affect the food we put in our mouths. In other words, we’ve had a rude awakening as to how fragile our food system is. As The Economist recently reported: “In 2007-08 bad harvests and higher energy costs pushed up food prices. This led governments to panic about shortages and ban exports, causing more anxiety and even loftier prices. The result was a wave of riots and distress in the emerging world… The system is far from perfect: as incomes collapse, more people are going hungry. There are risks, from labor shortages to bad harvests.” If you Google “cost of bread” and “revolution,” you’ll see we’re almost always walking the razor’s edge when it comes to food security. That’s what makes it so devastating to see images of farmers dumping milk and killing off livestock when they can’t transport their products or demand from restaurants drops to zero. Especially when you put those images side by side with lines of the homeless and hungry waiting for food at soup kitchens. In Bangkok, accessibility to good, healthy food has often been unsteady, especially for manual laborers and migrant workers who live hand-to-mouth in the best of times. Fortunately, community-minded people in the city have stepped up to offer a small fix to alleviate some of these issues. Thai City Farm, a project at Thailand’s Sustainable Agriculture Foundation, oversees over 450 community projects teaching urban farming for those who can’t access food, especially during crises. Migrant workers now have a safe haven to grow and pick their own pesticide-free vegetables. The project also makes them stakeholders in a more sustainable food system. The folks at Raitong Organic have long pioneered partnerships with local organic farmers and promoted organic and natural farming methods to customers. These projects, they say, improve the well-being and dignity of Thai farmers that are offering nutritious food to consumers. And then there’s Daniel Bucher: chef, cook, maker of food. He is also a farmer, a leader in sustainability, a globally renowned expert on food waste. Not to mention his day job as executive senior sous chef at the Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park hotel and side hustles as food waste ambassador for the Scholars of Sustenance foundation (SOS) and lead chef in the UN food waste campaign Think.Eat.Save. Under his watch, the hotel has reduced electricity consumption by 9.4 percent, water usage by 5.03 percent, and paper waste by 4.9 percent year-on-year. Now he is exploring opportunities to take sustainability even further. His current projects include an urban vertical farm, urban beekeeping, a sustainable fishery project and a waste management initiative. In his role as food waste ambassador, he advises on food sustainability, develops programs, suggests structural improvements, takes official speaking assignments and represents Thailand internationally as a sustainable business destination.

It’s time to care about Thai products “For better or worse, much of our food system revolves around what we’re able to export and demand created by travelers visiting Thailand,” says Dwight Turner, food writer, Bangkok Fatty blogger and founder of non-profit The Courageous Kitchen. “The pandemic has basically shattered demand.” When demand drops, Turner notes, it affects everyone from mangosteen farmers in the south to butchers in Bangkok. “Little government support means those at the bottom of the supply chain suffer most. The result has been farmers with a glut of produce that can neither be exported nor sold locally. When those items have a short shelf life, farmers, for example, see their fruit rotting in orchards or warehouses [because they] can’t be sold in time. The magnitude of this isn’t something we are forced to confront in the city but is something we should all be better informed about,” he says. The problem we are facing now is not only our flawed food system, but also the seismic disruption to the hospitality industry. While a small percentage of establishments won’t feel a severe impact, many hotels and restaurants that cater to tourists will suffer until the country reopens to international visitors. That puts the onus on those of us in Thailand to support local farmers, butchers, vendors and restaurants to prop up the sustainable systems we have started to build again. “Thailand is blessed with an abundance of food, but we don’t always appreciate the variety and diversity available,” says Turner. “We need to both incorporate more types of locally grown nutritious produce into our menus and spend time exploring beyond the popular varieties of a given item—for example, less well-known varieties of mango.” He continues, “There are also products which we consider central to Thailand’s culinary identity, like chili and garlic, that are imported because Thai farmers can’t compete with the low prices from other countries in the region. We should do more to appreciate these ingredients and protect the farmers who grow them.” Soontorn “Keow” Ruttanasook, owner of Green Garden, admits that the business nosedived almost overnight when the pandemic started to spread in Thailand. “Most of our clients are chefs and restaurants, so when the lockdown happened [in March], we lost all our clients. But we kept growing, kept hiring and we waited. After about a month without an order, we decided to change our target to personal usage by delivering CSA boxes door-to-door.” The efforts that Turner and Keow refer to have another positive effect on our ecosystem: that it’s good for our ecosystem. According to a study published in Science, the global food supply chain emits 13.7 billion metric tons of carbon dioxide equivalents each year. Not surprisingly, most of that comes from beef and other animal products, like cheese, lamb and mutton, milk cows and even chocolate. By eating local, we can support good practices across the board.

According to Organic Agriculture Development Thailand and Earth Net Foundation, just 0.3 percent of Thailand’s agricultural land is certified as organic, compared to 1 percent worldwide. Less than 0.2 percent of Thai farmers practice organic agriculture, too. Interestingly enough, 58 percent of the organic goods sold in Thai supermarkets are imported. While Green Garden has managed to leverage connections throughout the country to stay afloat by selling some of the small percentage of organic goods that are grown in Thailand, not everyone is so well-positioned. Countless suppliers, farmers, restaurants and chefs are suffering, as the high price of organic ingredients has become harder to justify in a tanking economy. Facing off against cheap, massproduced goods from large farm corporations, organic and sustainably produced ingredients often lose their appeal. It is precisely this industrial food system that has come to dominate in Thailand. With few exceptions, like the Or Tor Kor market, most wet markets get their ingredients from Talat Thai, one of the largest sources for fruits and vegetables in the country. While there is little available literature on the subject, most of this produce is thought to be grown with pesticides and monocultured, both of which keep prices low. According to a 2017 report by the non-profit Thailand Pesticide Alert Network (ThaiPAN), over 60 percent of popular Thai fruits and vegetables sold at supermarkets and wet markets were unsafe to eat, because they were laced with pesticides like paraquat and glysophate, the latter a common weed killer. Two years later, in 2019, Thai-PAN found that 41 percent of 15 other popular vegetables and nine kinds of Thai fruit contained toxic chemical residues above the accepted level for safety. Three out of six samples even received the “Organic Thailand” label provided by the Department of Agriculture. With up to 65 percent of Thailand’s workforce laboring in agriculture, according to the WHO, many of whom work in export-focused agriculture, that figure is alarming. It means Thai farmers have been using potent, toxic chemicals to meet demands for their products. In June, after a protracted debate involving farmers, politicians and US special interest groups, Thailand enforced a ban on two agricultural chemicals widely regarded as toxic to humans: paraquat and chlorpyrifos. The lingering dilemma is that as many as 10 million farming households in Thailand used paraquat to protect their crops, as there is no other alternative on the market, according to Reuters. A step toward sustainability or a devastating blow to farmers? Consumers, unfortunately, have often been left out of this discussion. To make matters more complicated, farmers in Thailand now face the looming prospect of a trade agreement that could upend their industry. Thailand is in talks to join the CPTPP (Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership), a free trade agreement between 11 countries. While the deal is meant to boost international trade, it could have a devastating impact on farmers. If the deal is passed, farmers will lose their rights to the certain seeds that were registered overseas for protection under the CPTPP. In other words, unless they pay royalties for their seeds, they will face fines and, potentially, arrest for simply farming as they have for years, if not decades. The potential fallout has influenced Thai political leaders’ decision-making. The country is still studying the agreement and deciding whether to sign on, making it increasingly likely that, for better or worse, Thailand will miss a window to enter the pact in 2020. “Hopefully, issues surrounding food hygiene and the task of cooking at home have all made us more conscious of the need for food transparency during this pandemic. There have been some encouraging local movements like the pushback against joining CPTPP during the pandemic that I hope we can harness into creating more trust in our food systems,” says Turner.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

Chemicals, politics and tough choices In a paradox, we often eat healthier nowadays, but at the same time we don’t. Those veggies that say organic at the supermarket: are they really organic? Do we know for sure? Do we know which farm they came from? Industrial foods have been modified, processed and changed for mass distribution to meet the demands of consumers who are looking for cheap food, as well as manufacturers who need to lower costs as margins get pinched. According to Organic Agriculture Development Thailand and Earth Net Foundation, just 0.3 percent of Thailand’s agricultural land is certified as organic, compared to 1 percent worldwide. Less than 0.2 percent of Thai farmers practice organic agriculture, too. Interestingly enough, 58 percent of the organic goods sold in Thai supermarkets are imported. While Greens Gardens has managed to leverage connections throughout the country to stay afloat by selling some of the small percentage of organic goods that are grown in Thailand, not everyone is so well-positioned. Countless suppliers, farmers, restaurants and chefs are suffering, as the high price of organic ingredients has become harder to justify in a tanking economy. Facing off against cheap, mass-produced goods from large farm corporations, organic and sustainably produced ingredients often lose their appeal. It is precisely this industrial food system that has come to dominate in Thailand. With few exceptions, like the Or Tor Kor market, most wet markets get their ingredients from Talat Thai, one of the largest sources for fruits and vegetables in the country. While there is little available literature on the subject, most of this produce is thought to be grown with pesticides and monocultured, both of which keep prices low. According to a 2017 report by the non-profit Thailand Pesticide Alert Network (Thai-PAN), over 60 percent of popular Thai fruits and vegetables sold at supermarkets and wet markets were unsafe to eat, because they were laced with pesticides like paraquat and glysophate, the latter a common weed killer. Two years later, in 2019, Thai-PAN found that 41 percent of 15 other popular vegetables and nine kinds of Thai fruit contained toxic chemical residues above the accepted level for safety. Three out of six samples even received the “Organic Thailand” label provided by the Department of Agriculture. With up to 65 percent of Thailand’s workforce laboring in agriculture, according to the WHO, many of whom work in export-focused agriculture, that figure is alarming. It means Thai farmers have been using potent, toxic chemicals to meet demands for their products. In June, after a protracted debate involving farmers, politicians and US special interest groups, Thailand enforced a ban on two agricultural chemicals widely regarded as toxic to humans: paraquat and chlorpyrifos. The lingering dilemma is that as many as 10 million farming households in Thailand used paraquat to protect their crops, as there is no other alternative on the market, according to Reuters.

Knowledge is power The ripple effect on the economy is clear. If consumers don’t put a premium on quality ingredients, it won’t translate into revenues for restaurants, which then impacts farms, and ultimately affects the jobs and livelihoods of the country’s 10 million farming households. Rebuilding the local food system from the ground up, ensuring food security for future generations and creating better opportunities for suppliers, requires conscious effort. Many in Bangkok’s food and beverage industry are already driving this change in their own ways. “We need a lot more learning activities and campaigns, and we need to reach out through the media to food activists on how to work together to create a learning-based society. When our food system is in the control of very few industrialized companies, our choices become increasingly limited, despite us being offered the illusion of choice,” says Kingkorn Narintarakul Na Ayudhya of the BioThai Foundation and Food4change. She says we can maintain and even advance the diversity of our food by supporting local farmers and supporting small-scale vendors. “Our campaign, Food4change, always urges people to go to local fresh markets and learn, directly from the farmers, how they produce [their goods] or how to cook with a local ingredient they are unsure of.” This is precisely what has fueled the sea change in the city’s fine dining scene. Some of Bangkok’s best chefs have gone out of their way to learn the tricks of the trade, and along the way they have acquired a greater measure of pride in local traditions and emphasized the protection of the local ecological system while helping to bolster the local economy. Taan, 80/20, Canvas, Samrub for Thai, 100 Mahaseth, Le Du, Baan Tepa, Axis—top restaurants with passionate people at the reins have increasingly put local ingredients in the spotlight. Paolo Vitalleti, chef and owner of Giglio and Appia, has jumped on the local train by switching to wagyu provided by ranchers in Khon Kaen. “Of course, we will always have some special products coming in, but we will mostly work with local ingredients for meat, vegetables and fish, and it is not a decision based on price—it’s the same or more than [the price of] imported goods,” he says. “We have made a definitive change. Local beef is of extremely good quality.” Not just extremely good: Vitalleti believes Jasmine and Black Angus beef he procures from breeders in Khon Kaen equal their Australian counterparts.

A step toward sustainability or a devastating blow to farmers? Consumers, unfortunately, have often been left out of this discussion. To make matters more complicated, farmers in Thailand now face the looming prospect of a trade agreement that could upend their industry.

“The high-end market quality is quite superior on the same price level, and you have the advantage [of being able] to visit the farms and check standards of production to improve the quality. The Australian beef that has a monopoly on the Thai market comes from intensive breeding and, honestly, it is not what we want,” he says.

Thailand is in talks to join the CPTPP (Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership), a free trade agreement between 11 countries. While the deal is meant to boost international trade, it could have a devastating impact on farmers. If the deal is passed, farmers will lose their rights to the certain seeds that were registered overseas for protection under the CPTPP. In other words, unless they pay royalties for their seeds, they will face fines and, potentially, arrest for simply farming as they have for years, if not decades.

“It’s our job to educate our guests,” says Riley Sanders, chef of Canvas, the Michelinstarred restaurant in Thonglor known for its exceptional use of rare, seasonal and premium products sourced from across Thailand. “Many times, people don’t know what some things are, or they don’t remember what they are, and this is usually for the most common ingredients [we use].”

The potential fallout has influenced Thai political leaders’ decision-making. The country is still studying the agreement and deciding whether to sign on, making it increasingly likely that Thailand will miss a window to enter the pact in 2020. “Hopefully, issues surrounding food hygiene and the task of cooking at home have all made us more conscious of the need for food transparency during this pandemic. There have been some encouraging local movements like the pushback against joining CPTPP during the pandemic that I hope we can harness into creating more trust in our food systems,” says Turner.

Food matters We all perceive food in different ways. In Bangkok, food is often a status symbol—a latte from a Hong Kong-born cafe chain, wobbly pancakes from a Japanese dessert specialist, French foie gras and New Zealand wagyu, all captured on social media, establishing one’s place in the in-crowd. For most of the population, however, social media matters less than survival.

We also live in a world full of influencers, who jump from food trend to food trend. Many believe that these social media darlings must use their platform to educate their millions of fans about local food culture and the people behind it rather than pose for photographs or write columns about how weird and laborious Thai fruit is. “The most important thing is to get people to learn where their food comes from, how it’s produced. When they do this, they learn who is involved in the supply chain, and they become more aware about the environment. This makes the supply chain more transparent,” says Kingkorn. “When you go shopping, shop like you’re looking for a story,” says Bangkok-based chef Luke Farrell, who scours Southeast Asia for ingredients and grows them at his greenhouse in Dorset, England. “You want to know how this ingredient got to you, where it comes from and how it got to your hands. Are they in accordance with your ideals and beliefs? There is something much more valuable and much more exciting and healthier [when] you know where your food comes from. It makes a meal zing and become full of life rather than being just empty and flat.”

In this city and country, food is everywhere, accessible and cheap. But with the changes that we’re now experiencing likely to stick in the long term, many consumers are searching for a healthier lifestyle, and many want to learn more about the origins of their food. As food industry experts have told us, now is the time to join the movement, embrace the incredibly high quality of products grown and raised in this country, and be better to the planet and the hard-working people across the local supply chain.

hit list | shopping

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

The second Apple Store in Thailand has arrived It’s official: the spaceship-like extension outside Central World, the one that Apple and the Central Group have long tried to deny was going to be an Apple Store, is an Apple Store. Officially dubbed Apple Central World, the two-floor retail space, which connects to the Ratchaprasong shopping mall on both levels, features a glass-dominated design sheltered under a cantilevered “tree canopy” roof. The wood touches continue throughout via a spiral staircase that wraps around the tree’s timber center, leading from the ground level to the second floor. The store incorporates many of Apple’s latest features, including free-standing displays, a boardroom and a forum centered on a video wall. In the future, the forum will play host to live sessions from Bangkok artists and musicians, while the ground-level boardroom will provide developers and business entrepreneurs a space to receive personal advice from the Apple staff—a team of 130 who can collectively speak up to 17 languages. 1/F, Central World, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-035-9800. Open daily 10am-9pm

[GLOW UP]

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BOOKS

TECH

The Ikea and Greyhound The Big Bad Wolf Book Sale Behold Leica’s new furniture collaboration rangefinder powerhouse goes digital finally dropsThrough Aug 31, The round-the-clock Big Bad Wolf Book Sale returns What: Leica M10-R After offering a glimpse of their limited-edition collab collection in mid-2019, Ikea and Thai fashion and lifestyle label Greyhound Original are ready to release it to fans this month. Dubbed “Sammankoppla,” meaning “unify” or “interconnect” in Swedish, the eco-friendly collection boasts a range of 25 affordable home decor items made from reused materials, all of which give your living space an industrial chic aesthetic with a Thai twist. Think LED lighting (B499) made from recycled bottles and scaffolding shelving units (B2,990). Available at Ikea Bangna and Bangyai branches.

next month with a bunch of affordable Englishlanguage titles. However, this year’s event will be different. From Sep 3-6, the sale will be held entirely online for the first time. The new format will feature double the amount of books compared to previous years, covering everything from bestsellers, novels, science fiction and romance to graphic novels, cookbooks, business, self-help, architecture and more. Expect discounts of 50- to 90-percent off retail prices, with all books shipped directly to customers. For more information, visit facebook.com/bbwbooksthailand

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht

BUY IT CONVERSE CHUCK 70 “RIVALS” These Chucks (B2,990 for low-tops/B3,990 for hi-tops) deserve a spot in your collection; available at carnivalbkk.com

BIN IT RELIGIOUS SYMBOLS AS DECORATIVE ITEMS FROM FAST FASHION RETAILERS Tasteless and disrespectful, period.

Price: B285,300 Why? While visually similar to its M10 and M10-P predecessors, this rangefinder camera boasts a high-resolution variant featuring a new 40-megapixel sensor—a huge upgrade from the M10’s 24-megapixel sensor. The result? Significantly enhanced details and sharpness, plus greatly improved performance for cropping and larger formats. The sensor also allows for a 16-minute maximum exposure time, meaning you’ll have more flexibility when capturing night landscapes. Available at Leica Store, 2/F, Gaysorn Village

SUUNTO 5 PROMOTION These compact, fitness-tracking BARGAIN GPS watches are currently going for B8,900 (down from B11,900). Grab yours at 2/F, Digital Lab, Siam Discovery.

hit list I what’s on REVIEW EXHIBITION

Andy Warhol: Pop Art After facing several delays, the long-awaited Andy Warhol: Pop Art exhibition at River City Bangkok is finally here. Through Nov 24, fans of the legendary artist can witness a private collection of 128 original artworks and pieces of memorabilia, spread across four categories: Self-portraits and Photos; Celebrity Portraits; Magazine and Album Covers; and Silk Printing and Others. Some of the highlights on display include “Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali” (1978), “Elvis I and II” (1964-1978), “Marilyn” (1984) and “Liz Taylor” (1971), plus one of his more iconic album covers, “The Velvet Underground and Nico” (1967), which features a banana image developed from Warhol’s experimental “Exploding Plastic Inevitable” series. Other notable works include Warhol’s Interview magazine covers, “Brillo Box” (1970), “Dollar” (1981-1982) and the iconic “Campbell’s Soup Cans” (1967). Tickets are B400 for adults and B300 for senior citizens and students (ID required) via ticketmelon. com. RCB Galleria, 2/F River City Bangkok, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24

STREET ART

Colour of Charoenkrung IIf you’re keen to get out on a photo walk, then check out Colour of Charoenkrung. The installation—brought to you by CEA Vaccine, a project under the Creative Economy Agency (Public Organization) that was established to support and develop Thailand’s creative economy—gathers over 30 Thai artists and designers to create a total of 30 artworks capturing the essence and creative spirit of the neighborhood. From Bang Rak district to Song Wat Road near Chinatown, you can expect to find murals and installations painted and crafted by familiar names and emerging talents, including Tnop Design, Wishulada, Bunjerd.Boy, Ease-Studio, Mukae and Kitt.Ta.Khon. Snap away! The project runs from now until the end of September. For more information, see fb.com/CharoenkrungCDStudio.

FESTIVAL

Thailand Coffee Fest Bean geeks shouldn’t miss the return of Thailand Coffee Fest this Oct 1-4. The huge showcase aims to promote Thailand’s coffee industry by welcoming close to 200 vendors—including bean growers, roasters and cafes— from Thailand and abroad. On top of sampling coffee until you’ve got the shakes, you can also join a series of talks by coffee industry professionals and grab special merchandise like mugs (B299), sporting artwork by Thai illustrator Taweesak “Lolay” Sritongdee, and T-shirts (B299) designed by local startup Moreloop. Entry is free with registration at thailandcoffeefest.org. Exhibition Hall 6-7, IMPACT Exhibition and Convention Center, Popular Rd.

WARHOL ART CLASS

HHH On a rainy Saturday afternoon, we were more than tempted to nurse our epic hangovers on the sofa with the help of our good friends Foodpanda and Netflix. By some divine intervention, however, we were able to overcome this urge and drag ourselves over to River City for an Andy Warhol Pop Art class at the new Create Artist Studio. Broken as we were, the soothing, light-filled studio and the encouraging art teacher soon lulled us into a happy state of calm, and as the storm raged outside, we felt a sense of pride and accomplishment at having made it out of the house to do something productive. Over the course of three hours, we went through the motions of recreating Warhol’s iconic silkscreen painting of Marilyn Monroe, starting with pencil outlines on canvas before gradually building color with vibrant acrylics. With just the right amount of guidance—aided by the small size of the class (limited to 10 people maximum)—we were, to our surprise, able to create something that we actually wanted to take home. Had we been feeling more energetic, we’d have taken the opportunity to explore the neighboring exhibitions as our work dried—perhaps next time, as we’re seriously considering returning for the “Creative Portrait” class (when you can draw a subject of your choice). All classes are priced at B1,200, which includes all art supplies. For the full schedule and to book, visit the studio’s ZipEvent page or email create@smilingalbino.com. 2/F, River City Bangkok, Charoenkrung Soi 24, 063-371-4688

Star Ratings H Give it a miss HH Worth your time HHH Must go

BK ASKS

Linda Cheng, Managing Director of River City Bangkok

When did your affinity for art begin? When I was 7, my parents bought the family a piano and my mother put up a poster of Renoir’s “Girls at the Piano.” I am not sure my mother knew who Renoir was, but I believe she chose that poster for its beauty and to inspire us to learn. Who is your favorite artist and why? There are many artists that I like, but if I must choose one, I would say David Hockney. I love his landscapes depicting only nature. They remind me that we ought to get back to the basics. Plus, he is still creating art at the tender age of 83. So inspiring! Which exhibition do you consider a breakthrough for River City? In my tenure, the 2018 National Palace Museum of Taipei’s “Up the River during Qing Ming” multimedia

exhibition was a breakthrough: the first time that River City brought a top international museum exhibition to Thailand. What are your favorite pieces from the Andy Warhol: Pop Art exhibition? There are quite a few, but I like the Marilyn Monroe series and the Interview magazine covers. They bring back memories of my time in California as a student. What big exhibitions can we expect from you in the future? Our major exhibitions are already planned through to 2023. I’m sorry, but I’ll need to keep you guessing! Just let me say that with our current exhibitions of Warhol and Van Gogh, we have set a high bar for our wonderful team to surpass.

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

HOT OFF THE PASS

BK Restaurant Week is Back for 2020! BOOKING FRENZY

For the third year in a row, BK Magazine (that’s us) is coming together with over 60 of the city’s best restaurants to host BK Restaurant Week 2020 from Sep 19-Oct 3. If you don’t know the gist already, we’ll get you caught up. Each venue creates a special menu for the event (three or more courses) with prices ranging from B500 (new!) to B750 to B1,000, depending on the venue. You book tickets and pay through our online booking engine, then show up at the restaurant on your chosen date and everything is taken care of. There has been a lot of turmoil in the industry these past six months. BK Restaurant Week 2020 isn’t just about finding new and cool places to eat at great prices. It’s also a celebration of the city’s dining scene coming back in full force. Take this opportunity to support awesome restaurants like Michelin-starred 80/20, Soi 23’s excellent new Italian Mediterra, upscale Indian favorite Rang Mahal, rooftop grillhouse Char, and many more. Pre-booking for Citi credit card holders is already open, while booking for all card types opens on Aug 31. For the full list of participating restaurants and to book, visit bkrestaurantweek.com

RAIN ON ME

RED HOT

SAUSAGE PARTY

Taan rolls out a fresh new menu for rainy season

Ba Hao launches new dishes and eccentric Chineseinspired cocktails

Sloane’s has relocated to the suburbs and it’s worth the trek

Taan, the Siam@Siam’s local-leaning fine dining pioneer, has just unveiled a new menu featuring the monsoon season’s lush bounty. From bamboo shoots that spring up with the first rains, served with crispy gobi fish from Yala and an umami-rich yanang sauce with seasonal mushrooms, to frog legs with Northern Thai herbs and tamarind-flavored pork belly, the menu (six courses B1,600; nine courses B2,500) delivers complex, hearty flavors using less common ingredients. These bold and often sustainable dishes are paired with organic wines hand-picked by Wine Garage, including a standout German Riesling. 25/F Siam@Siam Design Hotel, 065-328-7374

Chinatown’s uber-cool, red neon-drenched drinking den Ba Hao has reinvented its second floor as a seating area for guests to enjoy their new bites. Expect seriously delicious dishes like sesame shrimp toast with plum puree (B218), quail egg drop soup (Szechuan sweet and sour soup; B148), caramelized pork belly with morning glory served with pumpkin mantou (B248) and steamed plum pork on bok choy rice topped with egg yolk (B188). Ba Hao has also introduced 13 new Chinese-inspired concoctions, such as No.8 Drop (Maotai Prince, VSOP, coffee, braised pork sauce and sesame oil; B318). 8 Soi Nana, Maitri Chit Rd., 062-464-5468

Following a short stint on Thonglor, Bangkok’s sausage-maker extraordinaire, Joe Sloane, has relocated his butcher shop to the Bearing suburbs. Co-owned by Bo.lan, Sloane’s sprawling new digs feature a full grocer’s shop, various dried goods and a research and development kitchen. Shop for everything from Cumberland sausages (B299) and chorizo (B340) to housemade Scarletta pasta (from B99) and Bo.lan fish sauce (B80). Don’t fancy the trek? You can purchase Sloane’s gourmet products on Top Tables Kitchen, our new delivery platform bringing the best gourmet goods and meals to your door. 53/21 Lasalle Soi 29, 02-398-2294

GAA GAA Although chef Garima Arora’s lips remained sealed at the time of writing, a typically cryptic Instagram post by Gaggan Anand earlier this month made public the rumors that have been swirling about her imminent move. It seems it’s time to say farewell to Gaa as we know it. Stay tuned for whatever’s next. (Hint: we hear she’s Sukhumvit-bound).

STOCKHOLM SYNDROME On that note, chef Bjorn Frantzen of Stockholm’s three-Michelin-starred Frantzen is set to team up with Gaa and Gaggan’s former partners for a relaxed Nordic restaurant with Asian influences. Frantzen’s Kitchen is slated to open in Chong Nonsi later this year and follows a restaurant of the same name in Hong Kong.

GETTING JIGGY This October, the recently opened Kimpton Maa-Lai hotel will add classic cocktail bar Ms. Jigger to its profile. Expect a cozy, Italian-themed cocktail lounge where you can kick off date night with Negronis and cicchetti.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

“Yeah that’s right, make way for another omakase restaurant with truffle oil and caviar on sushi.” FACEBOOK USER PERTH OPHASWONGSE ON THE CLOSURE OF MUSLIM RESTAURANT.

“The home delivery cheesecake from Wagamama.bkk needs to be mentioned here. No storefront but it’s better than at least two on the list.” FACEBOOK USER SAM LIN ON BK’S BASQUE BURNT CHEESECAKE TASTE TEST.

“Such a delicious way to help save the planet!” FACEBOOK USER MAY WASANTAPRUEK ON THE LAUNCH OF FOOD WASTE RESCUE SERVICE YINDII.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

COME HANG OUT This internationally renowned "co-living" space just hit Bangkok

Co-living spaces have been a trend in Bangkok over the past few years , and now the internationally renowned lyf brand from Singapore is adding its name to the fray. An easy way to think about the new property on Sukhumvit Soi 8 is a combination of a furnished apartment and a co-working space. The property is a mere 5-minutes walk from Nana BTS Skytrain station, so you get breezy access to all the cool spots downtown. Rooms come with an en-suite bathroom and some funky art murals on the walls (rates go for around B1,105++ per night). It’s also part of the Ascott Star Rewards Programme, so you can earn points and use them for discounts and bonuses at Ascott properties worldwide. Where lyf really stands out are the social spaces and events — this is what takes it beyond your standard hotel

Brought to you by Lyf

or co-working space. They’ve hosted seminars on pitching business ideas, neighborhood cafe tours, and rooftop sales events at the Easy & Breezy rooftop bar. There’s also movie nights, cooking classes and regular networking events. The brand’s whole concept is based around a social theme, so a lot of these events are aimed at bringing young entrepreneurs together. If that’s your jam, you’ll love it. The common areas are all cleverly named after their function, like Say-Hi (the lobby), Connect (co-working space with free WiFi), Bond (the kitchen), Wash & Hang (laundry and games room areas) and Burn (the gym). For more information, you can visit lyfbyascott.com. There is an introductory promotion (B1,105++ for a studio) ongoing until Oct 31.

11 11

food & drink | open door

Mediterra brings southern Italy to Asoke The buzz: A pair of passionate Italians, the owner of the dearly missed Sfizio, Diego Pignatelli, and former Il Fumo head chef Walter D’Ambrosio, have teamed up to bring the flavors of southern Italy to Asoke in a fairytale setting. The vibe: From the cacti and patterned tiles that draw Instagrammers to the photogenic courtyard to the clean white archways that link the indoor dining areas, this standalone, century-old white house will transport you straight to Apulia. The food: In the spirit of southern Italy, you won’t find any balsamic vinegar or Bolognese on the menu here. Instead, dishes like the Sarde (B430)—square-shaped chitarra spaghetti with fresh sardines, dill, onion, raisins, pine nuts, saffron and almonds—draw influence from Greece, the Middle East and Spain. Fresh, bold flavors sing in the Andria (B480), Apulia-hailing whole burrata cheese plated with Thai heirloom tomatoes, and the Crudo (B1,490 for two/B2,690 for four people), an impressive tower of premium, wild-caught raw seafood, crowned by buttery Mazara del Vallo red prawns. Follow that up with the Splendida pizza (B550), topped with mozzarella, porcini mushrooms, truffle sauce, smoky 24-month aged Parma ham, cherry tomatoes and wild rocket, or the Polipo (B980), tender grilled octopus leg with baby broccoli, smashed potato and spicy tomato coulis. Do not leave with-

out trying the tiramisu (B280), made a la minute—it ranks among the best in the city. The drink: The wine list currently spotlights southern Italian labels like the serendipitously named Mediterra, Poggio al Tesoro, a full-bodied but easy-drinking red from Tuscany (B420/B1,800), though plans are in store to expand with an 800-bottle wine cellar. Creamy yet punchy Caffè Pascucci Italian coffee is also available alongside a line-up of Italian liqueur, top-shelf whiskeys, cocktails (from B350) and Peroni on draft (B240/B320). Why we’d come back: Once the influencers have moved on, this restaurant will still draw crowds for its authentic, heartfelt cooking. Pignatelli fulfils the rich potential that was evident in Sfizio and takes his passion for lesser-known Italian ingredients a step further— expect “seacuterie,” like squid lard, cod tongue and even smoked tuna heart, to hit the menu soon. Angela Symons

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount and get a complimentary dessert valued THB 280 when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip) 01 Jul ’20 – 30 Jun ’21

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

Salvia

NEW AND NOTED

The second of Dan Bark’s new projects has just opened

Grand Hyatt’s Tables Grill is now a homey Italian eatery

Mitr Craft has launched a new bar and microbrewery

The second new venture from chef Dan Bark, formerly of Michelin-starred Upstairs, has just opened. The everyday-dining foil to forerunner Cadence’s fine dining, Caper sees Bark offering a la carte dishes at affordable prices. Think toasted brioche with Parmesan, truffle cheese and freshly shaved truffle (B360); roasted carrots with Jerusalem artichoke puree (B360); Hokkaido scallops with cauliflower puree and caper sauce (B590); and warm banana bread with bacon ice cream and rum maple syrup (B360). The drinks are overseen by Chris Simon, who offers some very crushable cocktails, including baby martinis named after major cities and featuring their local craft spirits (B290 each). 225 Pridi Banomyong 25, 091-713-9034

Tables Grill has been reborn as Salvia, an Italian trattoria with family-style dishes made for sharing. The natural woods and white tablecloths of its predecessor remain, yet the menu is brand-new. Start with the creamy burrata (B390) before digging into the paccheri neri al granchio (B790)—large tubes of squid ink pasta cooked al dente and topped with meaty Surat Thani crab in a rich shellfish broth—or the salsiccia e broccolini pizza (B230 light/B430 full), topped with mozzarella, gorgonzola, red onion, sausage and broccolini. Pair your meal with a refreshing glass of Prosecco Nino Franco, Rustico, Veneto, NV (B250/1,250). M/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234

The folks behind local craft beer project Chit Beer and Mitr Craft—the country’s first legal Thai brewery—recently launched Mitr Samphan Brewery, a shiny new bar and brewery in the ‘burbs. Take a trip up to Nonthaburi to check out the (legal!) on-site microbrewery—the first of its kind in Thailand—and sample some from their 12 taps, which currently include their own Mitr Pale Ale (B120 for 330ml/ B180 for 473ml), Chit Beer’s Good Chit (B120/180) and Devanom’s Mrs Lychee mead (B140/200). The bar is open from Friday to Sunday only. 85/3 Tiwanon-Pak Kret Soi 21, 092-701-2488

TABLE TALK

House of Susan Croissant 384/1 Ekkamai soi 24, 062-293-6464. Open 7am-7pm. BTS Ekamai Tucked inside a two-story house that kind of feels like a cozy cottage, this cafe serves up freshly baked croissants and homemade donuts that are to die for. Highlights include the salted egg lava croissant with an airy, buttery texture goes well with the sweetness and saltiness from melted filling. For donuts, choose between the lemon cream and crumble (a dense donut topped with zesty lemon cream cheese), the dark chocolate ganache, and the raspberry and custard cream.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 5% discount when spending THB 1,000 or more / sales slip 01 Jul ’20 – 31 Dec ’20

food & drink | open door

Wok Star Express

Tortilla Quemada

NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK

Pimp My Salad 56 Soi 8 (Sathorn), 02-550-7623. Open daily 8am-8pm. BTS Chong Nonsi Made up of modish grey concrete and embellished with blond-wood seating, this salad bar proves that healthy doesn’t have to equal boring. Choose from healthy bowls like the Hula Hula Tuna (avocado, edamame, pickled daikon and carrot kimchi, brown rice, and furikake), or build your own breakfast from wide range of items like grilled seeded rye sourdough, smashed avocado, smoked bacon, cured salmon, pork collar, and more.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 500 or more / sales slip 01 Jul ’20 – 30 Jun ’21

This hotel is crowned by an affordable tropical rooftop bar Although Soi Tonson’s Kimpton MaaLai hotel won’t open to guests until October, you can head to the rooftop to check out Bar Yard. Tropical murals, pastel touches and plenty of greenery serve as the backdrop for playful tiki cocktails (from B280 for a Singapore Sling), mules (Moscow Mule, B250) and fruity creations like The Cayenne Group Pineapple (Cuban rum, beetroot, cayenne pineapple juice, lemon and lime; B320). Complete the backyard barbecue vibe with smoked baby pork ribs (B360/two people), snapper fish tacos (B270/three) and a fancy take on s’mores (B190) with vanilla ice cream, gianduja chocolate and mixed berry compote. 02-056-9999

Bangkok’s AmericanChinese takeout scene welcomes a new player

Ash Kickers’ chef turns his attention to bold-flavored Mexican food

Wok Star Express serves gut-busting American-Chinese takeaway out of a kitchen in Silom. Everything from the sticky-sweet kung pao chicken (B220) to the juicy black pepper ribs (B220) is delivered in classic white paper boxes. To truly invoke memories of New York’s Chinatown, order the yellow curry powder-tinged Singapore noodles (B240/300), the addictive lemon chicken (B200) and the sweet and sour Hong Kong-style pork (B190) with a side of sesame prawn toast (B140/ four pcs). Plans are in store to open a second branch on Sukhumvit Soi 23 soon. 135/8 Pan Rd., 095-537-4418

Chef Colin Stevens, a fixture on Thailand’s F&B scene for over 20 years, surprised us when he spontaneously opened takeaway-focused Tortilla Quemada in Asoke last month. Here, he serves big, bold, real-deal Mexican cuisine: lamb barbacoa tortas (B200); corn tacos packed with beef tinga, chicken chipotle or pork adobo (from B110); quesadillas filled with chorizo and smoked pumpkin (B190); and more. Everything is made in-house, from the tortillas to the salsas, yielding deep flavor. In the future, Stevens plans to add dine-in space, plus bar areas serving margaritas, mezcal and tequila, and craft beer. 41, 1 Sukhumvit Rd., 065-237-3307

food & drink | taste test Drop by Dough

Cream by Flour Flour

The maker: All the cool kids and cafe-hoppers flock to this Winner! influencer-founded (Oats x Somewhere) donut shop in Udom Suk. The donut: Classic Vanilla Price: B95 The taste: We opt for the ring-shaped, vanilla custard-filled version, and oh… oh, yes. While we could do without the dusting of powdered sugar, we discover ambrosia with one bite of this super-fresh, sweet-savory treat. The custard is so good we wish we had a jar of it—we can picture ourselves shamelessly eating it with a spoon late at night. Verdict: Drop everything, go here 3131, 4-5 Sukhumvit Rd., 081-961-9135

The maker: Chiang Mai’s Flour Flour bakery makes in-roads into Bangkok with this booth selling only sourdough-based bomboloni donuts with a range of flavored creams. The donut: Vanilla Price: B69 The taste: These look good, puffed up and filled to the brim with vanilla cream—eerily reminiscent of a jiggly pancake in look alone—but we’re shocked by their density when we take a bite. After we get past the hefty, bready texture, we find the flavor bland and uninspired. The Verdict: Jigglypuff 399/4 Silom Soi 7, 095-695-8594

Brassica

Who makes the best donuts in Bangkok? As much of the world has embraced healthier diets recently, Bangkok has seen a surge in new donut shops. What can we say? We love our deep-fried dough. But which Thai brand’s ring-shaped belly-busters are worth the calories? We tested the limits of our blood sugar levels to find out.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

The maker: Singaporean chef Runner Cong Wen and his partner are Up! behind this fried chicken and donut shop in Nanglinchee (note: it also serves beer!). The donut: Vanilla Custard Price: B80 The taste: Puffy and golden, this cream-filled beauty fires on all cylinders. There’s textural contrast, flecks of real vanilla in the cream, and the addition of both glaze and sugar on the exterior. Our only complaint is that the cold, mellow cream kind of distracts from everything else going on here. The Verdict: Sweet dreams are made of these 76/10 Nanglinchee Rd., 093-596-2465

Kinn The maker: The former delivery-only donut maker now occupies a grab-and-go spot in the shadows of the CBD, serving a small selection of ‘gram-worthy donuts set atop iced matcha lattes. The donut: Original glazed Price: B29 The taste: In look and aroma, it recalls a Krispy Kreme glazed donut. After a bite, we confirm it tastes like one, too, but with more of a pillowy texture. It even matches the global giant’s product in sweetness, which isn’t necessarily a good thing. The Verdict: Kinn-not stop eating Soi Pipat 1 (Sathorn Soi 8), 062-162-3656

Kinu Donut The maker: This nascent donut chain boasts outlets in Ari, Sathorn and Town in Town, plus a mobile booth for pop-ups, selling sugar, cinnamon and (ick, if you must) salted egg yolk options. The donut: Original Price: B100/8 pcs. The taste: At first, we’re taken aback by the puffy appearance, eye-opening amount of sugar on the exterior and yeasty aroma. But it grows on us. The donut melts as we bite into it, revealing a subtle savory flavor that we find uniquely appetizing. The Verdict: Puff, puff, pass Ari Soi 5, 087-462-666; Sathorn Soi 2, 0992324-624; Town in Town, 063-2324-642

Chubby Dough The maker: This milkshake-pink kiosk in front of Gump’s Ari serves Yikes! five flavors of donuts alongside a few different kinds of (appropriately enough) milkshakes. The donut: Original Price: B100/5 pcs. The taste: With a weird, almost fruit-like aroma, this donut doesn’t get off to a good start. Sadly, it doesn’t get much better for us. The dough is dry and dense, and the sugar tastes artificial, battering our donut dreams and bringing us back to reality. The Verdict: Donut even Gump’s Ari (Ari Soi 4), 090-996-4265

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

BANGKOK

The wait is over for the Capella Bangkok

Say hello to Trang’s new dining and drinking hotspot

The Peri Hotel

Capella Bangkok

THAILAND

The Standard Hotels launches a brand-new concept in Thailand

TRANG

Under the creative vision of architects Sasiwimol “Jaoh” Utaisup and Apichaya “Leng” Krongboonying, Lion’s Tale Bar & Restaurant transforms an old commercial building near the abandoned Petch Rama Theater into Instagram gold. The design recalls a 19thcentury English bar with elements of Trang’s unique charms, bursting with bold emerald green and gold hues, warm wood accents, and photography showcasing important landmarks and local scenes taken by Trang-based artists. The menu offers international, Thai and Trang-specific dishes, plus cocktails prepared by Q&A and Teens of Thailand alumni Techin Wisedri and Singha Choonuan. 28/11 Huai Yot Rd., Trang, 093-579-3025

The Standard Hotels, the taste-making global hospitality brand, recently announced its flagship project in Thailand: The Peri Hotel. Joining the company’s Standard and Bunkhouse brands, the Peri Hotel launches this October in Khao Yai and Hua Hin. The hotels will take over preexisting Escape properties, both of which are owned by Sansiri, the majority stakeholder of the company since 2017. Expect down-to-earth, Millennial-friendly designs, with the Hua Hin branch drawing inspiration from Hemingway’s “The Old Man and the Sea” and the Khao Yai property from “Out of Africa.” Opening rates have been slashed, too, starting from B2,280 for stays from Oct 1 (available until Aug 31).

Capella Bangkok, the long-awaited luxury hotel with 101 rooms, suites and villas overlooking the Chao Phraya River, is finally ready to open its doors. Among the hotel’s noteworthy outlets is Côte by Mauro Colagreco, a venture spearheaded by the chef of threeMichelin-starred Mirazur. As it’s launching during a decidedly travel-unfriendly pandemic, the hotel is offering deals from Oct 1 onward, with nightly rates from B17,500, including resort credits from B3,000-8,000 per day to use on accommodation, dining or spa treatments; round-trip limousine transfers for guests staying in villas; in-room breakfast for two each day; flexible check-in and check-out times; and more. THAILAND

Two Thai properties get long-listed for prestigious Dezeen Awards The design studios behind two boutique properties in Thailand have been put on the long list in the “hospitality building” category for the Dezeen Awards, the annual prizes put on by the influential London-based design and architecture magazine. Phuket’s Studio Locomotive got on the list for Hotel Gahn, a boutique hotel opened in late 2019 in Bang Niang, Khao Lak, that recaptures the sepia-toned Peranakan charm of Takua Pa’s historic old town. Nitaprow, meanwhile, landed on the list for its work at Suan Sampran and Patom Organic Village, where its team built a striking, 20,000-sq-meter public ground. The shortlists will be announced in early September and winners in October. Stay tuned.

Feature | pet-friendly restaurants

The Dog Days Are Just Beginning Bangkok isn’t known for being pet-friendly, especially compared to dog-mad Hong Kong, but more and more restaurants are warming up to our furry friends. Check out these pet-friendly places the next time you want to go out without leaving your best friend at home. By Veerabhatr Sriyananda and Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Indus

Dusit Gourmet

From the gorgeous 1960s house to the verdant garden, weekend dog walkers have it good at this northern Indian institution. Since 2006, Indus has been dishing out staples like butter chicken (B390), nawabi raan (seven-hour slow-cooked mutton leg, B990/1,690), and bhagare baingan (curried baby eggplants, B320). Recently, it began to welcome pets on the weekends, so now you can bring your pooch with you to satisfy for itch for awesome Indian food. Indus, 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 086-339-8582. Open daily 11am-10:30pm

With the Dusit Thani Hotel still under renovation, the Dusit Gourmet has relaunched in petfriendly digs on Soi Saladaeng. Food-wise, the bright and tangy soba noodle and kimchi bowl (B270) stands out among their all-day-dining dishes. Want to take your pup out for some high tea? They serve afternoon tea sets (B390) every day, featuring premium organic teas from the Monsoon Tea Company in northern Thailand. Dusit Gourmet, Baan Dusit Thani, 116 Saladaeng Rd. 02-200-9009. Open daily 7am-11pm

Bigoli by Sensi

Toby’s

Sathorn’s long-standing Italian joint, formerly known as Sensi, now welcomes your furry friends on the weekend. Here you’ll find the kind of food that’s made for a sunny afternoon with an Aperol spritz in hand, with hearty dishes like pasta and meatballs (B410), signature desserts like their Lemon Km 687 (B340) and a bunch of excellent wood-fired pizzas (from B310). Your four-legged companion will also get a “free doggie pizza treat.” Bigoli by Sensi, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin 17 Yaek 5, 02-117-1618. 02-676-4466, Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm

Head to either of Toby’s two pet-friendly branches—Sukhumvit Soi 38 and Soi Saladaeng—for a hearty, Aussie-inspired mid-morning meal with your pets. The photogenic, sun-kissed spot draws crowds, pet owners or otherwise, for their flat whites (B100), cold-pressed juices (B180) and brunch staples like the Egg Mikado (sourdough topped with two poached eggs, cured salmon and yellow hollandaise sauce, B320) and crispy French toast (B280). Toby’s on Sukhumvit 38, 75 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-712-1774. Open Tue-Sun 9am-10:00pm; Toby’s at Saladaeng, 14/1 Soi Sathon 2, 02-121-4954. Open 9am-7pm

Hide Park

Tropic City

This pet-friendly garden may be animal-oriented, but they are not playing around with their food for humans. Grab a seat amid the trees and mini waterfall, and indulge in the Egg in the Park (a poached egg with hollandaise sauce, sauteed mushrooms and red spinach; B300) or a burger made with Australian wagyu (B380).Top it off with a glass of wine (from B280/glass) or the energy-boosting Wake Me Up (carrot, cucumber, apple, beet; B180). Hide Park, 122 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-235-7127. Open Mon-Thu 3-10pm; Fri 3pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 8am-10pm

When cocktail hour arrives, let your hipster hound tag along to Charoenkrung’s Tropic City. The bar crew are happy to let your pet lounge around on the terrace while you knock back drinks like Welcome to the Jungle (Plantation dark rum, aged Havana Club rum, pimento dram liqueur, apricot, pineapple, orange, lime and vanilla; B380) and Hotline Bling (pomelo-infused gin, Demonio de Los Andes pisco, dry vermouth, maraschino and Fernet Branca; B410). 672/65 Charoen Krung Soi 28, 097-242-2890. Open Tue-Sun 7pm-1:30am

Craft Grab a seat by the coffee counter at Kimpton Maa-Lai’s first-floor cafe-bar and order a brew made with high-quality beans sourced from Thai and foreign suppliers (from B90). The siphon-filtered coffee (B180-B260) and the Turkish-style brew (B170), meanwhile, offer a more sophisticated sip than your regular espresso. What’s going on behind the bar is just as impressive, with a focus on cocktails ranging from the Vesper martini (B320) to coffee-based drinks (from B220). Kimpton Maa-Lai Hotel, 78 Soi Ton Son, 02-056-9999. Open daily 7am-midnight.

Luka Pan Road and Thonglor branches of this brunch mainstay—the Phloen Chit outpost at Siri House is currently closed—say yes to dogs. That means by 9am, you can be eating your breakfast burrito, packed with organic eggs, cheese, Sloane’s sausage and more (B310), while sipping on a peppermint green tea (B120) as your pooch runs wild in the designated outdoor areas. Luka Bangkok, 64/3 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open daily 9am-6:30pm; Luka Moto, The Taste, Thonglor Soi 11, 02-050-0469. Open daily 9am-5pm

The Running Dog Did the name give it away? In any event, Sathorn Soi 10’s Japanese-style cafe The Running Dog is (obviously) dog-friendly. It boasts an outdoor space where your pets can run and play around while you enjoy a lemon meringue tart (B150) or slice of strawberry cheesecake (B150) with a cup of caramel macchiato (B120), blended from three different local beans. The Running Dog, 55 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-077-6144. Open daily 10:30am-10pm

The Commons Thanks to their indoor-outdoor, open-plan design, the common areas at both branches of the hip community mall have become dog-friendly paradises. While your loyal companion gets acquainted with other four-legged friends, you can catch up with your besties while munching on Fowlmouth’s awesome fried chicken burger (B250) or a classic brownie ice-cream sundae from Guss Damn Good (B160). If the night’s still young, you can sip on ice-cold beers like Oranjeboom (B140) from Tap Room or Limburgse Witte (B140/B240) from The Beer Cap. The Commons Thonglor, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 089-152-2677. Open daily 8am-midnight; The Commons Saladaeng, 126 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 089-152-2677. Open daily 7am-midnight

neighborhood | Lad Phrao

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 28, 2020

Ma-Ke Inu

Blackhills

Ninetails Bar and Booster

Highland Cafe

Lads, Lads, Lads The area between MRT Phahon Yothin and Lad Phrao is known for having the worst traffic, but don’t let that deter you. The countless sois and sub-sois of this 1.2-kilometer street are home to neat cafes, laid-back drinking dens and street food stalls. We’ve heard it through the grapevine that once you move here, it’s hard to see yourself living anywhere else. By Supanan Anansuviroj

Coffee & Breakfast Start your slow morning with an iced Americano (B110) at Blackhills’ Kinfolk-esque coffee den. Over at Bluekoff, you can indulge in chocolate frappe (B80) and an almond croissant (B100), or head to neighboring Soul Cafe for New York cheesecake (B80). If you don’t have a sweet tooth, then make your way to Mallika Rice Porridge. Locals here can’t stop raving about their joke moo (B35) and patongo (B10/five pcs).

Lunch & Dinner Jeang Hai Noodle Gallery and More does wallet-friendly northern dishes like chicken khao soi (B75) and crispy pork nam ngeaw (B70). For something more filling, opt for The Mexican (beef burger with chili bean ragu, pickled jalapeño, cheese slice and chili mayo; B290) with a side of jalapeño poppers (B180) at The Fat

Cow. Tough day at work? A trip to a lively izakaya will heal everything. Order the salmon combo don (B380) at Jirafu or the hearty wagyu steak don (B320) with a glass of umeshu (B140) at Ma-Ke Inu. Prep your stomach before hitting the bars with a mini margherita pizza (B130) from grungy Pizzicato Bar and Restaurant or hit up RATT for fiery pasta dishes like tom yum linguine (B119) and bacon fettuccine aglio olio (B139).

Drinks It’s four-twenty somewhere, so head to Highland Cafe, where you’ll find an on-theme crowd and 12 craft beer taps filled with everything from premium pilsners to IPAs (from B200). If your goal is to get wasted and dance pointlessly to house music, Method to My Madness is the place to go. Only a stone’s throw away, oriental-themed Ninetails Bar and

Booster shakes up refreshing concoctions like Curse of the Golden Flower (chrysanthemum juice, gin and vodka; B180) and Ninetails Poison (hazelnut syrup, dark rum and Chinese tea; B180). Over at Ladprao Sky Bar, you can grab a pint of Singha and chill out in the laid-back rooftop area, overlooking Lad Phrao’s gridlocked traffic.

Transport MRT Phahon Yothin and Lad Phrao.

Visit Eco-conscious folks can fill up their empty bottles with organic products at Bad Habit, while big spenders can shop their hearts out at Union Mall and Central Plaza Ladprao. When you’re tired of the malls, take a stroll in spacious Chatuchak Park. Don’t forget to check out sleek, mixed-used community space Never Normal; they often host cool

events and workshops like stand-up comedy nights, kava sessions and watercolor painting classes.

Accommodation B12,000/month will land you a dainty studio room at Chapter One the Campus Ladprao and a 27-sq-meter one-bedroom at The Unique Ladprao 10. Meanwhile, Life at Ladprao’s one-bedroom condos run from B16,000 upwards. Two-bedroom units at Ideo Ladprao 5 will set you back B23,000/month. For a roomier option, Formosa Ladprao 7 offers 63-sq-meter two-bedrooms for B25,000/month.

BK ASKS

What’s it like living in Lad Phrao?

SIRINPORN SEANSOMBAT, OWNER OF BAD HABIT “People think that Lad Phrao is so hectic, but when you get into those sois and sub-sois, you’ll see that it’s actually livable and peaceful.”

WITHITA SUKBUMTHUENG, BARISTA AT HIGHLAND “Lad Phrao has everything that one needs—skytrain, underground train, malls, restaurants and tons of hip bars.”

NUCHA JAITIP, OWNER OF BLACKHILLS “Lad Phrao has a nice balance between urban and suburban and that makes it one of the most low-key neighborhoods to be living in.”