BK Magazine 790

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Island Time See the side of Koh Phangan that parties often obscure Tropicsphere Langsuan’s Bar Yard takes tropical vibes to new heights Shawarm-up Bangkok’s shawarma masters get put to the test Old Town Road Why Charoenkrung is still Bangkok’s hottest ‘hood

NO. 790 SEPTEMBER 25, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com

Who needs a finance minister anyway?

Youth

Movement

g n i t h g fi s t s i v i t c a g n u o y e h t d Meet n a l i a h T n i y c a r c for demo

food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

02

ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Feels like Home Comfort dishes and reliable flavors Nara Thai Cuisine

Baan

A well-known name in Bangkok, Nara serves spicy fare like tom yum soup and their delicious soft-shell crab with yellow curry. The restaurant space is really pretty to boot, incorporating the company’s signature color purple, with purple seats and pendant lamps.

Homey, everyday Thai meals from Chef Thitid Tassanakajohn (of the one Michelin-star Le Du) and his younger brother Chaisiri. Baan dishes out unpretentious meals which prove chic, high-quality dining can be delivered at pocket-friendly prices.

7/F, CentralWorld, 02-613-1658.

Open daily 10am-10pm

Get a complimentary Nara Coconut Icecream with Rice Crispy valued THB 110 when spending THB 1,500 or more /sales slip (limit 1 cup /card /table /sales slip) 01 Mar ’20 - 28 Feb ’21

Ruen Mallika Ruen Mallika uses homegrown vegetables and herbs and doesn’t hold back on the chili. The menu is gigantic and covers all manner of Thai comfort food. It’s all houses inside a traditional teak wood house, but isn’t a tourist trap and is mostly filled with a local crowd.

Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-3211-2.

Open daily 10am-10pm

Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,000 /sales slip

139/5 Wireless Rd. (between Japanese Embassy and Lumphini Police Station), 02-655-8995. Wed-Sun 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm; Mon 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm

Nara Thai Cuisine

Get a complimentary Moo Dad Deaw valued THB 250 when spending THB1,500 or more /sales slip (limit 1 dish/ card /table /sales slip) 15 Mar ’19 - 31 Dec ’20

Lee Kitchen Lee Kitchen has been a staple of Bangkok’s Cantonese scene for over three decades (although the name has changed several times). The quality of its Cantonese comfort food, however, hasn’t changed a bit.

Baan

26/37-38 Chan Tat Mai Rd., Sathorn, 0-2683 8333, 089-113-9689, 087-9814436. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6pm-10pm

Get 10% discount on a la carte menu 01 Apr ’20 - 31 Jan ’21

01 Mar ’20 - 31 Dec ’20

Brought to you by Citi

Reun Mallika

Lee Kitchen

page 3

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Who's in charge?

04

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Craig Sauers Deputy Editor Angela Symons Audience Development Specialist Nontaya Kumyat Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Veerabhatr Sriyananda Junior Writer Supanan Anansuviroj Contributors Megan Leon, Chonticha Thammarong

Learn the story behind the first Thai-made tonic water gracing your G&Ts

Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Chief Commercial Officer Jane Bay Product Marketing Manager Madeleine Anantasuk Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

06 cover

Meet the youth activists fighting for change in Thailand

SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associate Palita Nueangnit Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg

03

Covid Coping Strategies The Covid-19 pandemic has affected every facet of daily life, even the way we commute. As unsavory as it previously was to cram yourselves like sardines into public transportation such as the BTS, the MRT or, shudder, a bus, with a public health crisis afoot, sharing tight spaces now carries the very real risk of your spreading or contracting a novel disease. That’s why many in Thailand suggest maintaining your own fleet of private vehicles to navigate the current crisis.

We asked several folks to share their strategies for coping with transportation issues during a pandemic. Here’s what they had to say.

Khemkhaeng Salim, 22, scion to an Isaan-style sausage empire The son of a self-made entrepreneur who operates more than a dozen food carts selling Isaan-style sausages in luxury malls, Khemkhaeng noted that leveraging private conveyance whenever possible is “the responsible thing to do” to prevent spreading the virus. That, he added, is why he has built up a garage that includes a 2005 Toyota Corolla, a 2011 Mitsubishi Shogun, several scooters and, now, a handful of e-scooters.

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Kanicha Nualkhair

When asked about the costs of maintaining a fleet of Corollas, Khemkhaeng said that the expenses might be high, “but we just take the money from my dad’s employees, so no biggie.”

09 shopping

Rimowa arrives in Phrom Phong

Veronica Na Ayutthaya, 47, celebrity Veronica admits that having a bounty of private transportation options at her disposal, including dozens of Ferraris, RollsRoyces, private jets and yachts, affords her not just the peace of mind of knowing she will not contract any viruses, but also the freedom to opt out of the inconveniences of everyday life in Thailand.

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Where to find us!

12

15

open door

taste test

Bar Yard

Shawarma

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

Nattaporn Pornsamorn, 65, Member of Parliament During the pandemic, many in the country’s ruling elite have told us they now need to appear in parliament “I don’t know, at least a couple of times a month,” explained Nattaporn, a former member of the Thai Rak Thai and Democrat Parties, who now aligns with Palang Pracharath.

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2020 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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“Whether I’m zooming off to the Louvre in Paris, my villas in Basel, the Pyrenees and Mykonos, my lofts in New York and London, or simply visiting any of my other cottages around the world, the only option I will ever consider is some form of private carriage.”

neighborhood

Charoenkrung is still Bangkok’s coolest ‘hood

“Look, I don’t have a lot of time on my hands, if you catch my drift. Private transportation frees me up to multitask. My driver leaves me alone to ‘work’ on my phone, away from all the prying eyes in the parliament. You’d be amazed how much I can do by myself.”

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

04

HOT OR NOT

AIRLINE FOOD

Meet the creator of Thailand’s first premium tonic water What inspired you to make tonic waters in Thailand?

INTERVIEW

Third Phanurut, 28, is on a mission to make Thai tonic waters known to the world. First, however, he’s grinding it to get the word out in his homeland.

The young entrepreneur talks about starting a business, reviving forgotten ingredients and how his brand Nammon, or “holy water,” aims to elevate Thailand’s bar scene, one G&T at a time.

I’m passionate about drinking. I love learning about the culture and history of beer and spirits. One day, I got the idea to make gin after having a batch of beer that I brewed (for education). I went to a cocktail bar with my friend to learn more about the flavors of their gins. I ordered a G&T, like normal, but that was the first time I realized there’s more than one tonic on the market. I got really excited. My head was full of ideas, thinking about all the ingredients in Thailand.

You use a lot of unique ingredients, like bitter orange. How do you select them?

I read books about botanicals and traditional Thai food recipes, such as “Mae Krua Hua Pa,” to get to know Thai ingredients better. I travel a lot in Thailand and try a lot of local veggies, fruits, leaves and herbs. I’ve visited Chinese pharmacies in places like Chinatown to learn about different local herbs and figure out which area is best for what ingredients.

Did it take a lot of trial and error to get the recipes right?

The first try went really bad. I went to the North looking for cinchona bark and followed a recipe from the Internet. There were a lot of tannins from the bark and the herbs [I used]. It was not refreshing. I wanted my tonics to taste livelier, so I tried different methods, learned more about the science of making tonic water and started to work with all these delicate ingredients, like somsaa (Thai bitter orange).

What has been the hardest part of the process?

Sourcing, marketing, recipe development?

It’s all hard because we are still really small… but developing recipes is the hardest part. Getting them right has been the most time-consuming thing for our company. All my life force has gone into it. That’s

CONTEST TIME!

Want to be featured on our IG and win awesome prizes, too? Send us your most creative photos of your copy of BK Magazine to stand a chance to win a free dinner during BK Restaurant Week!

If you, like us, can barely stomach the thought of flying one whole hour from Bangkok to Phuket without being able to eat overpriced Mama Noodles, worry no more. According to the Civil Aviation Authority (CAAT), in-flight meals can once again be served on domestic flights. In the off chance you have never flown previously and will never fly again, you can also purchase souvenirs.

AIRLINE FOOD Missing mushy rice and lukewarm curries?

You’re in luck: Thai Airways has just opened a pop-up restaurant at its headquarters in Bangkok, serving you the in-flight meals you never wanted on terra firma. You’ll even be seated on an extremely comfortable airline seat, armrests and all. No word yet about which Thai Airways execs are receiving kickbacks for this initiative.

why we can’t release, like, 10 flavors at a time.

Have any of the recent alcohol regulations affected you?

Oh, yes, definitely. While the bars were closed, I couldn’t sell to them. Not even now—I won’t dare sell stuff to my friends who are struggling from what the shutdown caused us. You know, Covid 19 sucks and all, but the alcohol ban really buried us, especially with all the other nonsense [like anti-alcohol advertising laws]. As a mixers company, I had to erase all the pictures with alcohol bottles that customers had tagged us in, or photos of what we suggest pairing [our tonic] with on IG and Facebook.

But luckily there are a few groups of coffee people drinking “espressonic” with our tonics who are still sharing some good pics... that’s the only thing I can share on social.

Have you received any support along the way?

We’ve been doing this with our own budget and a lot of love and help from the family, but any help would be good, like a government program that could make things happen faster. We support local farmers. We try hard to get ingredients that people nowadays aren’t using to [give farmers a reason] to grow them. That helps both our company and the farmers.

What are your ambitions with Nammon?

Make Nammon from Thailand famous and used around Asia. Right now, we are just taking small steps and trying to educate people about tonic. That’s one of my challenges here—step by step getting people to know the product, understand the culture of drinking and love Nammon at the same time.

What else is in the pipeline for Nammon?

IDEAS With the travel and hospitality industries on their knees, and the government fearful of the public backlash they would expose themselves to if they let Covid into the country, we have a new “game-changing” idea. The so-called long stay visa is the latest Hail Mary solution the authorities have come up with to allow tourists back into Thailand without yielding their control over the status quo.

EXECUTION …unfortunately, this visa will be limited to 1,200 tourists a month—i.e., a fraction of the number of daily arrivals the country is accustomed to. The folks in Dusit seem to believe that these 1,200 tourists, after enduring a 14-day quarantine in a hotel room, will somehow collectively spend B1 billion each month.

That’s an average monthly spend of B833,333 per person.

But who’s counting?

We’re working on an Indian tonic water, ginger ale and mondum (cola). Craig Sauers

Show us what you’ve got! Tag us @bkmagazine #bkmagazine.

cover | leaders of tomorrow

The Youth are the Future Worldwide, youth activists have come out in droves to make their voices heard, whether it’s for climate change—go Greta!—human rights or democracy, with protests happening in places like Belarus, Hong Kong and the US. Now, Thailand is catching the world’s attention with its youth-led fight for democracy. By Chonticha Thammarong Earlier this year, university students across Thailand gathered to fight for justice following the dissolvement of the Future Forward Party. In July, Thai political activist Wanchalerm Satsaksit was disappeared in Phnom Penh, where he was living in exile. That event sparked another fire in Thailand’s young gen leaders, and since then we’ve only seen more tenacity, more determination, more rallies for democracy. Here are some of the key figures in the youth movement fighting for our country.

Panupong “Mike” Jadnok, 23 Mike became well-known nationwide when he and friend Natchanon “Non” Payakaphan were seen being dragged away by a group of police officers in Rayong province. And for what reason? General Prayuth Chan-o-cha was visiting Rayong to reassure people that everything would be fine after an Egyptian soldier, who had been allowed into the country quarantine-free and later visited attractions in the city, tested positive for Covid-19; Mike and Non were simply standing with protest signs that said, “Keep the guard up, father”—the way he used the word “father” is considered an insult—and, “If you stay [in power], the country will be in ruins, you animal.” Obviously, calling someone “an animal” in any language is an insult.

“One of the positive outcomes that we’ve all seen from the protests is that high school students are interested in politics and fighting for their rights. It’s not just about university students anymore. We can see rising movements from students throughout Thailand, and that’s very important,” says Mike. “No, I’m not scared. There’s nothing scarier than not standing up for your own country. Now is the time to take [Thailand] forward.”

Parit “Penguin” Chiwarak and Jutatip Sirikhan, Student Union of Thailand, both 21 Penguin may be a university student now, but he has been fighting for his rights since he was in high school. He spearheaded the Thammasat protest on Sep 19—at press time, it is expected to be the biggest Thailand has seen in many years. Penguin, his friend Jutatip Sirikhan and a few others formed the Student Union of Thailand together.

Both Penguin and Jutatip have led many symbolic movements throughout the year. On the sixth year anniversary of the coup staged by General Prayuth Chan-o-cha, the group drove a pick-up truck around Bangkok with banners hanging on the sides that read, “It’s been six years, you animal,” and were brandished with Prayuth’s face.

After activist Wanchalerm Satsaksit was disappeared, the Student Union of Thailand launched the white ribbon movement as a symbol of justice. (The movement saw protestors tying white ribbons around Bangkok to campaign for the activist.)

Jutatip Sirikhan was charged with sedition (Article 116 of the Constitution). On Sep 1, she poured a bucket of white paint over her body in front of the courthouse and said, “Paint is washable, but injustice is not.”

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

Benjamaporn “Ploy” Nivas, 15 Ploy is the youngest leader of the bunch and is still in high school. She and a group of her friends set up a Twitter account @BadStudent_, a platform set up to help students throughout Thailand fight injustice in school and try to change the education system.

In June, Ploy stirred up social media when she was seen wearing a school uniform, sitting under BTS Siam, hands tied, lips duct-taped, with a pair of scissors on her lap. Hung over her neck was a sign that said: “This student violates a school rule by wearing her hair long with bangs.

You may punish her.” Passers-by were invited to cut her hair. It was an act of protest against Thailand’s unreasonably strict haircut rule in schools, which demands that girls keep their hair above the neck and boys rock the “I just enlisted” look. The haircut rule in Thai schools has since been changed by education minister Nataphol Teepsuwan “The student movements have brought the fire back into some adults, whose fire was put out by politics,” says Ploy. “It may seem like such a small step, but it’s a very important step for those who long to see change in Thailand. I want it to happen now, in my generation. I don’t want to see the next generation grow up and experience what I’ve had to experience. This is the perfect time to fight for change.”

Sugreeya “Mindmint” Wannayuwat, 21 On July 25, Thailand saw a political protest that’s never been seen before. A group of people were dressed in drag or wrapped in rainbow flags. The phenomenon was called, #ม็อบไม่มุ้งมิ้ง แต่ตุ้งติ้งค่ะคุณรัฐบาล (“not a cutesy mob but a flamboyant one, sir, Mr. Government). It was a response to former army deputy spokesperson Colonel Nusara Pataratorn, who called the student movement “ม็อบมุ้งมิ้ง” (“a cutesy mob”). She meant to dismiss the protests as childish and irrelevant.

This LGBTQ+ protest was put together by Mindmint and her friend Siraphop “Raptor” Attohi.

They were inspired to make the political protest fashionable after visiting Pangina Heals’ House of Heals.

“What I would really love to see changed the most in Thailand is the education system. As someone who is currently studying in the Faculty of Education, I feel that a lot of problems the country has are deeply rooted in education,” says Mindmint. “It doesn’t really matter how much we try to deconstruct the problems. They always lead back to education.”

07

cover | leaders of tomorrow

Art is not a Crime Baphoboy Instagram @baphoboy Sippakorn “Ken” Khiaosanthia, 24, reflects social and political issues through his edgy artwork.

All carry unmentionable hidden messages, whether through the symbolic use of color or the cartoonish characters look a lot like certain Thai public figures. For his artwork to make sense— in order to understand its true depth—you have to be up to speed on current affairs and society news in Thailand.

Headache Stencil Instagram: @headache_stencil You may have heard of Headache Stencil in 2018, when graffiti of a black panther went viral on social media. The piece represented the infamous moment when ItalThai tycoon Premchai Karnasuta was found encroaching on protected forest, illegally hunting for panthers. Or maybe you recognize another of his works, like the clock that featured General Prawit Wongsuwan’s face. That, of course, represents the general’s bounty of luxury watches “borrowed” from his dead friend. For his third act, Headache Stencil has turned his art toward the former junta leaders. Lately, he has reported being harassed by the authorities, with people waiting for him at his condo, demanding “friendly chats,” or even sending him messages on Facebook pretending not to be cops. None have stopped him.

Make It Pop Why we will be seeing more pop culture in Thai political protests July introduced a lot of Thailand observers to the “Hamtaro run.” Hamtaro is a popular figure in Japanese anime, who yearns to break free from his cage. In July, hundreds of young people gathered together and sang a remixed version of the anime’s theme song while running around Democracy Monument. The original lyrics were changed to: “Come out and run. Come out and run, Hamtaro. / Wake up from the cage, let’s run and run, Hamtaro. / The most delicious thing is… taxpayers money (dissolve parliament!).”

One of the people behind the Hamtaro Run was Pumiwat “John” Rangkasiwit, 20. Although John is not involved in any political movements anymore—he cites personal reasons for his separation from the protests—he told us it’s likely we’ll see more pop culture intertwined with our politics in Thailand.

Why did you co-opt Hamtaro for this political movement?

There was a movement on Twitter first. My team and I just helped make it happen in real life. Then we learned that using pop culture could be very successful [in spreading protest messages]. We also like how we can create a political movement using feelings other than just anger. I’m not saying that we wouldn’t accept anger [as a motivating force], but political movements don’t always have to be angry. Sometimes anger makes it harder for people to communicate with each other.

Do you think pop culture takes away from the messages you’re trying to send out?

No, not really. I think pop culture has the power to grab the attention of a big crowd, using a shared interest—using politics as the main message, but also gathering a big group of people together via a shared interest in pop culture. It’s also fun to be associated with something we are interested in.

hit list | shopping

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

09

Luxury luggage brand Rimowa unveils a striking new store

SHOPPING

When a brand like Rimowa opens a store at The Emporium, you know it’s going to be fabulous. The 148-sq-meter space features a minimalist facade complemented by a dusty pink “airline window” display. Inside, curved lines, muted palettes, dark wood paneling and bespoke recycled rubber flooring make for a serene shopping experience. Head here to get your hands on the German luxury luggage brand’s entire suitcase collection, which includes the iconic groove-designed Rimowa Original, the heritage-inspired Rimowa Classic, the high-tech Rimowa Essential, and the aluminum and polycarbonate-assembled Rimowa Hybrid (prices range from B20,500-63,500 depending on model type, color and material). The store also offers the brand’s premium eyewear collection, the Rimowa Bridge—sleek shades handcrafted from stainless steel and acetate—as well as other travel accessories to trick out your luggage, like colorful vinyl stickers of your favorite cities. M/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit 24 Rd., 02-079-5409. Open daily 10am-9pm

[HOMEBODY]

Dirt cheap kitchenware you can buy now at Ikea

Stelna mug B29

Forvar jar B49

GIFTS

SNEAKERS

TECH

We’re loving these beautiful curated gift boxes

This bespoke sneaker service will pump up your kicks

The powerhouse you need to get the party going

Finding the perfect gift for your best friend’s birthday or your colleague’s house-warming party can be a pain.

But Liabox, a newly launched gifting service, is here to help. Based in Phuket, they offer stylish curated gift boxes across the country, no matter the occasion.

Customize the boxes yourself by selecting high-quality products from up-and-coming local brands, including Wax Valley Candle Co.’s artisanal scented soy candles and Chabatree’s wooden forks, or from their pre-made curations (from B2,000) like the “Eco Kitchen”-themed pack. For more information, visit fb.com/shopliabox.

If you have money to burn and you want to take your kicks to the next level, check out Kickxotic. These guys offer luxurious, customized sneaker services by reconstructing your favorite silhouettes with the finest Italian leather, beautiful exotic skins and lush vibrant textiles—all by hand. The prices, of course, don’t come cheap. Their “VIP Custom” service starts from B30,000, with prices varying according to size, style, material and other details based on each customer’s specifications.

All appointments must be booked in advance. Visit kickxotic.com for more information.

What: Marshall Woburn II bluetooth speaker Price: B27,990 Why? The Woburn II is much pricier than its portable predecessors, but what you get is that iconic rock ‘n’ roll Marshall design and one hell of a powerful speaker.

The bluetooth powerhouse is wrapped in a handsome, black Italian leather exterior, while the front is covered with a tasteful salt-and-pepper fret adorned with the brand’s bass plate in gold. With dual woofers individually powered by class D amps, expect amazing bass and a room-shaking sound that will turn any party up to 11.

Available at 2/F, Digital Lab, Siam Discovery

Kalas cutlery set B59 for 18 pieces

Foljsam oven dish B99 *available at ikea.com

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht

BUY IT ROMPBOY’S GIRLFRIEND RB KNITTED POLO SHIRT This all-time bestseller (B1,190) is back in stock, now available in three colors. 2/F, Rompboy, Lido Connect

BIN IT FANNY PACKS It’s getting old, people...

BARGAIN

VICTORIA’S SECRET Whether it’s delicate lace or a sports piece, you can now buy two bras for just B2,790. M/F, IconSiam

hit list I what’s on REVIEW

HOPE FROZEN

EXHIBITION

Siamese Talk If you’re into art and politics, then turn your attention to Siamese Talk, hosted at Jam through Oct 24. A politically-driven exhibition of mixed media and oil paintings

by Thai artist Kritsana Chaikitwattana, Siamese Talk probes Thai politics during the age of information overload and social media. You can expect to see the literal and metaphorical gilding of politicians, military officers, news reporters and anyone else involved in the cunning game of politics. A process usually reserved for Buddha images, the use of gold leaves here is meant to satirize how modern Thai society doesn’t openly express support toward any particular political group. Jam Cafe, 41 Soi Rong Nam Khaeng (Charoen Rat Soi 1)

FAIR

The Hope Fair Hosted at the Avani Sukhumvit hotel on Sep 24, The Hope Fair brings together 150 creators displaying trendy fashion collections, accessories, sustainable home goods, natural cosmetics, organic groceries and vegan fare, among myriad other goods from organic, local and fair-trade SMEs and entrepreneurs. Vendors will donate a portion of the proceeds to kids living in the slums of Bangkok, and you’re invited to bring unused shoes or clothes, or other household items, to donate to the ones in need as well. Avani Sukhumvit Bangkok Hotel, 2089 Sukhumvit Rd.

NIGHTLIFE

One Love BKK Boat party pioneers Bangkok Island are teaming up with High Tide restaurant and tons of local groups—Bangkok 1899, Noise Market, Queer Riot—for One Love BKK on Sep 26. Organized to help rebuild community spirit and support indie artists and creators, and spread across eight stages on a docked boat and at Bangrak Riverview (inside the Grand Postal Building), the party offers live music spanning rock, hip-hop, EDM and more. There will be a stage curated by the 60 Second Film Festival displaying love-themed shorts, as well as a booth for artisans to sell their crafts and a silent disco stage. Tickets range from B500-600 now and are B750 at the door. Bangrak Riverview, 72 Charoenkrung Rd.

HHH It’s been a rough year for film fans, but streaming platforms haven’t stalled entirely. Enter Hope Frozen: A Quest To Live Twice. A documentary we found so stirring we named it our “Film of The Year” last year, the film has now reached Netflix.

Directed by Thai-American journalist and filmmaker Pailin Wedel, the award-winning, feature-length documentary follows the Naovaratpong family. They made international news when they had their two-year-old daughter, “Einz,” who had died from brain cancer, cyro-preserved in the hopes of future developments in science and technology to bring her back to life in the future. The girl’s father, a scientist, hopes to give Einz the radical opportunity of a rebirth inside a regenerated body. He instills this dream in his 15-year-old son, who wants to be part of reviving his little sister.

Hope Frozen is a 75-minute rollercoaster of emotions, where grief, science, religion, hope and despair meet. Most compelling, however, is how the Naovaratpong family retains such a holistic understanding of life. The science-based Western sensibility and the Eastern concept of spirituality are binary opposites, but, for the family, it seems as if Einz’s soul is merely waiting to be rediscovered by science, years, decades or even a millennia from now. Having won awards at film festivals in Canada, South America and Asia, Hope Frozen is more than just a perspective on grief, as the themes of love, karma, science and technology will leave you to question life’s difficult twists of fate.

Star Ratings HHH Give it a miss HHH Worth your time HHH Must watch

BK ASKS

Dhyan Ho, founder of Jam

What is Jam, in your words?

I see Jam as a substrate—like a substrate for bacteria or culture to grow, or a medium for plants to grow on— Jam is a substrate for ideas and creativity to be nurtured and grown… We try to be a space that is open to many different types of expression and artistic endeavors that allows an unknown artist or collective to have their first show or band to play their first gig as well as established artists to perform or exhibit.

When did your love for art bloom into a real-life project?

Although I have a background in art and design, Jam didn’t really start as an art space or a gallery. A friend, Dao Paoviman, asked if she could have a show at Jam— this was when we had just opened, before we had a gallery space upstairs—she covered every wall and corridor downstairs with her paintings and illustrations,

otherworldly melting, psychedelic madness. That first exhibition was a catalyzing moment.

What’s your favorite event that you’ve hosted?

I really enjoyed the opening of Tae Parvit’s first solo exhibition, “Awkward Relationships.” The drawings and music went really well and energy built up and it got pretty crazy. Another favorite would have been Danish electronic pop artist, Lydmor—she produces all her own music as well, and her live performance was wild!

What exhibitions can we expect in the future?

We’ll be doing a group show this year possibly titled “Space Jam,” organized by artist friends Gabriel Camelin and Graham Meyer. It’s going to involve a lot of artists who have previously exhibited at Jam or contributed to the space, like an all-star showcase.

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

11

HOT OFF THE PASS

You have one more chance to score deals during BK Restaurant Week LAST CHANCE

Fun fact: BK Restaurant Week is a total misnomer. The city’s most anticipated annual dining event, which kicked off on Sep 19 this year, actually lasts a full two weeks, wrapping up Oct 3. That means you still have time to land a sweet deal from a line-up of restaurants that boasts more than 60 of Bangkok’s best: Baan, Gianni Ristorante, DTF, Taan, El Tapeo, Indus, La Scala, Lao Dtom Lao, Vistro, Thai Lao Yeh, Workshop. There are too many to name here, and they run the gamut from Italian to Indian to Mexican to Thai. Head to bkrestaurantweek. com to check the full list and peruse the menus. With multi-course meals ranging from B500++ to B1,000++, you’re guaranteed to get a good deal wherever you go. But act fast, or else you’ll have to wait until 2021 to enjoy this again… although, honestly, next year can’t come soon enough.

IT’S A WRAP Consider your breakfast prayers answered: Luca Thaiger, the Mexican partner to burger maestro Daniel Thaiger, is now delivering breakfast burritos (B180). Check @ lucathaiger on Lineman for all the deets.

BREWTIFUL Mikkeller Bangkok is currently revamping its food game. Soon, you can expect a whole new range of American comfort food coming out of the kitchen, now helmed by the former chef de cuisine of the Amankora in Bhutan.

MORTAR-FIED

SO LONG LANGSUAN

HASHTAG LEGEND

Talad Noi’s nam prik expert opens in a Phrom Phong luxury mall

One of Bangkok’s best restaurants is on the move

David Thompson quietly returns to Bangkok with an exciting new project

Krok, the nam prik specialist founded by the 80/20 team, has opened a second branch at The Emquartier. Located next to the food court in the luxury shopping mall, this branch carries all of Krok’s most-loved dips, including the kapi grilled pork (B160), served with a generous portion of tender pork, or the veg-friendly charred eggplant (B120). You can add different proteins, like braised tofu (B70), steamed sea bass (B100) and grilled Thai wagyu (B190). If you want to satisfy your nam prik cravings at home, you can pick up a to-go jar here, too. The Emquartier, B/F, 098-940-3406

The news we teased recently is official: Gaa is leaving Langsuan and preparing to move elsewhere in the city. Details are scant, but we’re told it could open somewhere in Sukhumvit. Stay tuned for more, including an opening date. According to the restaurant’s PR team, the new spot will “not only give us an opportunity to push our cuisine...but also house a more casual Indian breakfast canteen by day and a wine bar by night.” But you can expect the same devotion to serving vibrant Indian dishes made with traditional or forgotten Indian cooking techniques and Thai produce.

David Thompson, the man who redefined Thai fine dining at Nahm, has reemerged with a new restaurant, Aksorn. Located in Charoenkrung, the restaurant sits above Central: The Original Store, an imported book and stationery shop opened in 1950. Fittingly, Thompson leafed through old cookbooks when crafting the tasting menu (B2,800; served family-style).

Expect starters like smoked catfish wrapped in wild tea leaves and mains like red beef curry with peanuts, Asian citron and pickled shallots. The open kitchen, meanwhile, gives diners a firsthand view into the inner workings of Thompson and his fiery brigade.

No. 1266 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-116-8662

MAY I? Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn’s Mayrai Padthai and Wine Bar now has a secret-ish second location.

Connected to his other restaurant on Wireless Road, Baan, this iteration of Mayrai offers a bigger, more colorful space and a menu devoted to the fiery flavors of Isaan paired with natty wines.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

“BK Mag has officially sold out. This article was sponsored by Soho.”

FACEBOOK USER SUHANT MEHTA ON THE RESULTS OF BK’S PIZZA DELIVERY TASTE TEST.

“FIRST GAGGAN AND NOW GAA. DON’T LOOK GOOD FOR THE RESTAURANT TRADE TO BE HONEST. WORST TO COME.” FACEBOOK USER HUSSEIN HASAN ON THE NEWS OF GAA MOVING FROM LANGSUAN.

“THANK YOU @ BKMAGAZINE FOR GIVING THAI STREET FOOD THE ATTENTION IT DESERVES.” INSTAGRAM USER ALKHUZAIE ON THE YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS IN BANGKOK SHAKING UP STREET FOOD.

food & drink | open door

Langsuan’s laid-back Bar Yard brings tropical vibes up high The buzz: Merging a tiki bar with an American backyard barbecue, this playful rooftop bar takes over the 40th floor of Langsuan’s soonto-open Kimpton Maa-Lai hotel.

The vibe: Dreamt up by global design firm Hassell, a bright, breezy space filled with lush greenery and tropical details greets you as you exit the elevator, offering a vibrant backdrop for after-work drinks, with a covered roof to stave off the rain. Head past the slightly swankier bar area to the terrace, where you can appreciate the Bangkok skyline as you unwind to chilled electronic music.

The food: Think comforting, classic dishes you’d have with your friends at a summer cookout.

Helming the grill is executive chef Lamberto Valdez Lara, who rolls out creative dishes featuring locally sourced goods, like grilled beetroot and asparagus with snap peas, red onions, walnuts, goat cheese, honey, thyme and a ginger-orange emulsion (B190), and seared snapper tacos (B270/ three) loaded with fresh ingredients like avocados, pickled cabbage and cilantro. Rubbed with sweet and smoky chipotle and served with a side of slightly crispy baby potatoes, the slowcooked beef brisket (B390/two people) and the Greatest Hits Platter (calamari, smoked baby pork ribs, chicken wings and drumettes, pulled pork nachos and a smoked chicken quesadilla; B750/

four people) are both hits. Still have room for dessert? The Garden’s Fruit Factory Basket (B190/ two people; B350/four people), packed with seasonal fruits and sorbets, provides a light finish to your feast.

The drinks: Tropical and tikiinfluenced cocktails dominate, like the tequila-based Queen’s Group Pineapple (B310) with zesty lime, pink grapefruit, a splash of apple brandy and queen pineapple juice; the blackstrap rum-, Campari-, pineapple- and lime juice-laced Junglebird (B330); and the slightly stronger Siesta (B350), a mix of Italian red bitter liqueur, blanco tequila, grapefruit and lime. The mules are also a highlight (Mezcal Mule, B390).

The crowd: Your long-lost classmate from international school, well-groomed socialites and ontrend expats.

Why we’d come back: With its tropical vibe, playful drinks and comforting food, this is a nice place to unwind with friends or colleagues. Plus, it’s pet-friendly.

Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley and Veerabhatr Sriyananda 40/F Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok, 78 Soi Tonson, 02-056-9999. Open Tue-Sun 4pm-midnight

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

13

Fats and Angry

NEW AND NOTED

Fat chance you’ll bypass the burgers and shakes at this retro diner The Instagram crowds already flock to Fats and Angry. With retro décor like checkered tiles and vintage posters, plus affordable prices, this blastfrom-the-past Bang Rak diner offers a journey back to 1950s America. The menu keeps it classic with smashed cheeseburgers (B200)—beef, pork or fish patties with cheddar cheese, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes and onions— hand-spun milkshakes in a half dozen flavors (B165), and sides like curly fries (B65) and onion rings (B80). You can make your burger a double, triple or even “quadruple bypass,” or opt for a combo to get all the good stuff in one meal (B300-350). Charoenkrung Soi 46, 097-238-0935

The revamped Bo.lan gets a bar devoted to biodynamic wines

Little Market brings its awesome burgers to another neighborhood

Joining the F&B collective that’s suddenly forming at Bo.lan, Must Wine Bar promises a generous list of biodynamic wines. Launched by Fin Wine, the new outpost is set up for sipping in the comfy lounge areas, where you can discover new styles and grape varieties while enjoying Cards Against Humanity or Uno. The rotating list currently offers 26 labels, like 2014 Freisinger Schiava DOC, Cantina Tramin (B400/ glass, 125ml; B990/carafe, 375ml; B1,940/bottle), a red with hints of red currant, bitter almonds and coffee. The wines are also available for take-away purchases. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02260-2962; 02-653-0154

Charoenkrung’s beloved burger flipper Little Market has a new home on Yen Akat Road. The cozy setup offers shared seating over wooden tables and uniquely upholstered tuk tuk banquettes. They’re bringing all the classics, like the Triple Double (B249), loaded with three beef patties, American cheese, garlic pickles, onions, mustard and mayo. There are new additions to the menu, too, like the Patty Melt (B279) made with Ranger’s Valley Black Angus beef, melted Swiss cheese and caramelized onions on Conkey’s rye bread. For drinks, expect beer, wine and fun offerings like Arnold Palmers (half iced tea, half lemonade; B119).

4 Yen Akat Rd., 092-414-6890

TABLE TALK

Craftsman x Baan Ajarn Farang G/F, Silpa Bhirasri's House, 065-234-0044.

Open daily 7am-8pm.

Craftsman x Baan Ajarn Farang occupies the ground-floor of the neo-Renaissance mansion that used to serve as the residence of Silpa Bhirasri, Prof. Corrado Feroci, the Italian-born sculptor who earned the moniker of "Father of Modern Art in Thailand" during the reign of King Rama VI. It all makes for a very sophisticated setting for slow bar staples like pourover and Aeropress spotlighting single-origin beans. Other drinks, like the “Sparkling Tamarind” (B135), a mix of pureed tamarind, honey and San Pellegrino Sparkling Water, also impress.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount (except coffee beans, workshop and souvenir 01 Jul ’20 – 30 Jun ’21

food & drink | open door

Paknang

Workshop

NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK

Flavour Factor Factoria, Warehouse 26, 108/1 Sukhumvit 26, 082-541-6695. Open daily 11:30am-10pm Found in a funky-looking warehouse smack-dab in the middle of Khlong Thoey (right by K-Village, infact), Flavor Factor’s semi-open-air format, large dining tables and live music make it an ideal spot for gatherings with friends. Food wise, they play with a handful of grill/bistro favorites, like grilled picanha, Thai-style porchetta, and tomahawk steaks. It’s also a decent spot to booze, with buy-one-get-one happy hour deals on drinks and complimentary snacks alongside.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip 01 Sep ’20 – 31 Aug ’21

Head back to the future at Talad Noi’s retrowave dive bar

This southern Thai restaurant adds a splash of color to Ari

Talad Noi’s four-story FooJohn, formerly a bistro, smokehouse and jazz space, may have been forced into premature closure this year, but the building is being given a new lease on life. This month, Romain Dupuy, the nightlife luminary behind Soulbar and, yes, FooJohn, turned the ground floor of the building into 100-Bit: Retro Dive Bar. This latest iteration sees the space transformed into a neon-drenched den offering old-school arcade games, an ‘80s synthwave soundtrack, karaoke and cheap drinks. As in, all drinks are B100. Expect a reinvigorated FooJohn Jazz Club to open above this bar soon, too. 831 Charoenkrung Soi 31, fb.com/100bitbar

Ari acolytes have more to look forward to than cute cafes now that Paknang has opened. Set in a multi-story shophouse near the Revenue Department, the southern Thai restaurant boasts an Ari-appropriate aesthetic that would make Wes Anderson nod in approval: potted plants, a pastel color palette, vintage décor. The kitchen, however, deals in full-flavored takes on generations-old family recipes, like yellow curry with snapper and coconut shoots (B250), turmeric fried chicken (B180) and pork knuckle stewed in coconut water (B250), while creative cocktails (from B250) and specially packaged herbal drinks (B85 each) temper the heat. 2/23 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (Soi Ari), 098-822-1450

This Yen Akat restaurant aims to offer more than just fine dining Spearheaded by French chef Clément Hernandez, who formerly worked in the kitchens at Brasserie Cordonnier and J’aime, Workshop aspires to be a creative space for the Yen Akat community. By day, it offers bistro bites, like roasted tomato penne (B240) and croque monsieurs (B280); by night, elevated happy hours (buy-one-getone house pours and local beers) and rotating four-course tasting menus of French-inflected fine dining (B1,000/ B1,500 with wine). Workshop also doubles as an art gallery, and it offers a delivery menu, so you can get all the good stuff sent to you. 15/1 Yen Akat Rd., 06-2519-0055

food & drink | taste test

Who makes Bangkok’s best shawarma?

Turkish Döner Kebab and Pizza

Winner!

The brand: A shack located next to the train tracks beneath BTS Phaya Thai, this brand doesn’t offer much in the way of media impressions, or even information.

The price: B95/small chicken kebab The taste: Honestly, considering some of the other names on the list, we were surprised to find that this was our favorite. But there was some special alchemy in that pleasantly spicy sauce, tender chicken, fresh onion and perfectly crisped wrap. Anyway, a win’s a win.

The verdict: Dark horse Beneath BTS Phaya Thai, next to the train tracks, 063-014-5713

Hummus Heads The brand: It’s not all hummus at this Thonglor joint. The lengthy menu delves into LebRunner anese fusion, catering to those Up! seeking healthy yet hearty meals that go big on flavor.

The price: B130/shawarma chicken wrap The taste: The wrap itself is blasé, but there’s a whole lot of turmeric on the chicken, not to mention creamy hummus and tangy pickles giving this shawarma some pop. It’s unusual, sure, and that’s bound to upset the purists, but we dig it.

The verdict: A real hum-dinger Thonglor Soi 10, 097-193-1912

Berlin’s Döner Kebab

Is it shawarma? Kebab? Shabab? Döner? Confusion reigns when discussing the Turkish treat, but the gist is this: it’s delicious meat served in a char-grilled wrap. With that question (sort of) answered, we got to wondering: who makes the best, uh, whatever you want to call it in the city?

Read on to find out. Oh, and one caveat—we played it safe and went with chicken. Prefer lamb? Let us know your favs.

The brand: The newest name in the rotisserie game focuses on Berlin-style Turkish döner kebabs served in Berlin-style portions. I.e., massive.

The price: B240/döner chicken durum The taste: This beefy son could feed a family of four. The neat grill marks on the giant wrap and orderliness of the red cabbage, chicken and onions inside suggest this was made under the exacting watch of an honest-to-goodness German. The flavor is pretty muted, although the sauce has a salty kick that we enjoy when we do find it.

The verdict: Das ist gut 28 Sukhumvit 22, fb.com/berlinsdonerkebab

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

Rawabina The brand: Long-standing Rawabina serves mighty Lebanese cuisine on Sukhumvit Soi 23 and has recently expanded from its tiny fourtable shop to a larger restaurant just around the corner.

The price: B100/shawarma chicken wrap The taste: Good wrap integrity—a real thing— sets the tone for a relatively solid shawarma redolent of Mediterranean spices. Some knocked it for the very creamy sauce. All agreed that the chicken was too dry.

The verdict: Spice, spice, baby 39 Sukhumvit Soi 23, next to 108 Shop, 092820-2828

Beirut The brand: One of Bangkok’s best Lebanese restaurants since what seems like forever, Beirut now operates several perennially packed locations across Bangkok.

The pizza: B100/shawarma chicken sandwich The taste: We aren’t big fans of the pita they use in lieu of a flour wrap. It’s thick, chewy and distracting. That aside, the pickle inside is a nice surprise. Also a surprise? We can’t taste the sauce.

The verdict: Bring the heat Various locations, beirut-restaurant.com

Kekebab The brand: This delivery-focused kebab brand operates in several suburban neighborhoods, from Udom Suk to Lad Phrao to Phet Kasem.

The price: B75/chicken döner keYikes! bab The taste: Questions abound: is the wrap made with butterfly pea flower? If not, then why is it purple? Is that Kewpie we detect? Because it sure tastes like Kewpie.

If not, then why does this saucy mess taste so sweet? This is food for desperate backpackers.

The verdict: Khaosan kebab Various locations, fb.com/kekebabshop

15

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2020

15

BANGKOK

Golden Axe cuts a new path at W District in Phra Khanong

Pattaya’s stylish new hotel promises modern comfort at pocket-friendly prices

Chiang Rai

Hua Hin

HUA HIN

This beachside hotel restaurant in Hua Hin sees a total revamp

PATTAYA

Best Western Hotels & Resorts has expanded its footprint in Pattaya with the opening of its new midscale hotel in Naklua district, the Best Western Plus Nexen. Located a short distance to the beach, the stylish hotel features 164 rooms and suites equipped with plush, comfortable beds, spacious bathrooms, flat-screen smart TVs, and working desks (from B1,224 for a deluxe double room to B3,400 for a suite).

Other facilities include an outdoor pool, a fitness center, XSO Kitchen, offering co

Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa kept busy during the lockdown, revamping its popular Luna Lanai Restaurant. Now, guests can unwind on the renovated pavilion, soaking up the ever-so-fresh Hua Hin sea breeze. The restaurant’s new menu now includes catch-of-the-day seafood and top-quality meats, like Australian lamb chops (B890), which you can pair with golden hour-friendly, locally-inspired cocktails like the Luna Passion and Rum Runner (both B380). Every Friday, they’re offering a TGIF special, serving free-flow beer and wine from 6-8 pm (B790/ person). On Saturday, drop by for “Catch of the Day Chill & Grill,” with fresh seafood cooked over charcoal from 6-10pm (B1,200-1,900/set).

You can now sharpen your blade-throwing skills in Phra Khanong, as Golden Axe has relocated to the bustling W District night market.

The owners of the Thai-Canadian venture say they will continue to offer public walk-ins as usual (B100-300/game; B500/hour), as well as private parties and team-building events.

If you’re really into chucking ninja stars and axes with a cold one in hand, sign up for the weekly Golden Axe league. The owners plan to expand across Thailand in 2021, so keep your eyes peeled for more news soon. 097105-4719 (Thai), 063-654-0600 (English); open daily 4pm-midnight

CHIANG RAI

Locus relocates to a hillside setting above the rice paddies in Chiang Rai Chiang Rai’s “it” restaurant, Locus Native Food Lab, has settled into a beautiful new space at Pasaktong Resort, a high-end villa overlooking Chiang Rai’s rice paddies. Although the seating capacity has been reduced to 12, those are all situated around a theater-like chef’s table, where Kongwuth Chaiwongkachon and his crew perform culinary artistry with local and foraged produce (eight-course menu, B1,500).

In November, his new shop, Pa-Lang, opens in Chiang Rai town, offering nutrient-rich food from organic nearby farms. Other local farmers will sell their own organic fruit and vegetables at the shop’s market corner, too. 8 Baan Pa Sak Tong, Mae Kon, Mueang, Chiang Rai, 065-0232627

Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life.

To be featured in our upcoming 2020 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

17

ADVERTORIAL

The celebrations of Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 10th anniversary Check out these amazing deals at one of Bangkok’s most iconic hotels

The Venues The Venues

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

ALATi

Hanuman Bar

Curries turned into ice-cool powder by liquid nitrogen and crab laksa served as a Cornetto are more than just party pieces at this most modern of Thai restaurants. Flavors stick to Thai tradition while wowing with creativity. The vast, double-height dining room is also something to behold

This casual restaurant at the five-star Siam Kempinski Hotel will take you on a trip to the Mediterranean with its color palette of azure blues and dark wood. Mains chart everything from duck leg confit with plum and thyme sauce to cauliflower tagine. For something more lunch appropriate, opt for the lamb kofta burger or chicken gyros pita.

Found in the main lobby of Siam Kempinski, Hanuman Bar hits all the marks of a calm, elegant and sophisticated place to enjoy breakfast, morning and afternoon tea, and postdinner Champagne. There’s also a decent list of wines and spirits if you want to go that route. Fancy a cigar? Get your fill at the nearby 1897 Bar.

The Deals When spending at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, ALATi and Hanuman Bar Get complimentary stay in Premier Room with breakfast for two persons valued THB 16,937.03 when spending THB 10,000/sales slip 01 Sep ’20 - 15 Oct ’20

When spending at ALATi Gat 15% discount on Sunday Brunch from normal price THB 2,400++ per person and one child aged up to 12 years dines free with each paying adult (Citi ULTIMA only) 01 Aug ’20 - 15 Oct ’20 Get 15% discount on a la carte menu for lunch and dinner including takeaway when purchase at the restaurant 01 Aug ’20 - 30 Dec ’20

We create brand stories with influence studio.asia-city.com

Feature | paradise without parties

The Anti-Hedonist’s Guide to Koh Phangan The party-based economy has helped turn Koh Phangan into a mecca for backpackers, ravers and modern-day hippies. With mass tourism and moon-fueled techno bashes out of the picture indefinitely, the island suddenly has a different feel. Now is the perfect time to travel south, experience the island’s rugged beauty and natural attractions, and help local businesses rebuild for the future. Here’s a primer to prep you for a feel-good adventure.

By Craig Sauers

Bottle Beach by Kyle Pearce

WHERE TO STAY Ringed by coral reefs, the island boasts glass-flat, postcard-blue waters and beaches that are almost cornea-blisteringly white. In short, it’s hard to go wrong here. Typically, much of the island’s action, for better or worse, centers on Haad Rin, better known as the “Full Moon” beach. It’s actually a lovely spot outside the parties; you just have to deal with some riffraff occasionally. If you venture in the opposite direction on the island, however, you’ll find remarkably chilled out expanses that seem to get better the further north you go, offering sugary white sands and incredible sunsets with a fraction of the crowds.

While Chaloklum at the very north of the island is a great option—it has a local village and therefore offers more activities, bars and restaurants—the not-too-tucked-away vibe of Haad Yao tops them all. Check out Seaboard Bungalows, a collection of bungalows set on the beach and dappled with avant garde art (bungalows from B800/night). Seaboard is run by a friendly Italian woman named Paola, who organizes classical music nights every Monday, plus a local arts and crafts market followed by an electronic music party every Thursday (5pmmidnight). Between those sonic poles, the bungalows offer an eclectic soundtrack, solid Italian food, excellent happy hours and direct access to white sands—good for the mind and body.

Other great options include Bluerama (from B700/night). The hilltop hotel aims to help you reduce your carbon footprint. The restaurant uses locally grown produce to both help farmers and use less fuel, while the rooms feature natural fiber sheets, towels and mattresses, among other eco-friendly initiatives. Bonus: it offers fantastic sunset views from its infinity pool.

WHAT TO DO Skip the spiritual rebirthing sessions and opt for meditation through physical activities. Koh Phangan boasts a half dozen excellent hikes, plus all the yoga classes and diving trips your heart desires (Sail Rock Divers, 080-885-7268, and Haad Yao Divers, 086-279-3085, are good options for the latter).

Most Thai islands feature jungly peaks in the center. Koh Phangan is no different. If you’re up for a challenge, hike to the top of Khao Ra, the island’s tallest point at 627m. (Warning: it isn’t easy. Carry all the fluids you can handle, because you won’t find any shops along the way, and it’s a good hour-and-a-half hike up and down, if you’re moving fast.) Head to Khao Ra Terrace off Madurwan Rd. to find the trailhead. Once you begin, you’ll ascend, largely under the canopy, until the jungle clears, and then you’ll find yourself looking out across the island in every direction.

For a hike with an even better payoff, try the trek to Bottle Beach. The trailhead is located at the end of the road past Chaloklum and Haad Khom (there’s only one road here). From here, you have two options: the seaside route (harder) or the interior route (easier, but you’ll still have to get on all fours at points). The 30- to 45-minute trek takes you to what might be Koh Phangan’s best beach in Haad Kuat, or Bottle Beach. At the moment, you might not find another soul on these palm-fringed sands. Picture The Beach, but with a little development behind the scenes. If you’re not up for the return trip, Smile Bungalows remains open, and the friendly manager will hail a boatman to shuttle your carcass back to Chaloklum for B300.

WHERE TO EAT Koh Phangan in recent years has begun to do its best Bali impression. Now you can find local produce and plant-based options on menus island-wide. Part boutique, part library, part openair cafe, Eat.Co, with branches in Srithanu and Thongsala, has been serving “cruelty-free” vegan dishes to islanders since 2013. Foods & Roots, meanwhile, is a newer addition to the plantbased scene. Open for only about a year, this airy eatery overlooking the bay in Chaloklum sells natural products—from hemp-based goods to natural cleaning supplies—as well as global vegan dishes, like lentil burgers (B260) and mashed chickpea salads (B300).

It isn’t all vegan here, though. For a taste of Bangkok coffee culture with a distinct island vibe, join the digital nomads at Bubba’s (Haad Yao and Baan Tai) for salmon eggs Benedict (B200) and coffee made with beans from Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Tak (from B60). Want to get some work done for some reason? Visit Indigo Specialty Coffee in Srithanu. The coffee shop and bakery doubles as a co-working space, but you’d be just as well off going for their eggs Benedict (B240), which includes guacamole and house-made croissant bread, or a smoothie bowl (from B180) with an espresso (B50).

When happy hour calls, the no-frills Freeway Bar on the beach in Srithanu ticks all the boxes, or you can pop over to Zen Beach, the cultural mecca for Koh Phanganers, where sunset yogis and fire dancers ply their trade before night falls. Then shuttle your way over to Sirtaki Taverna for a Greek feast that’s as good as any you’ll find this side of Mykonos—think grilled seafood of the day (B400), meaty grilled octopus (B250) and tender pork souvlaki (B260)—before ending your escapade as the expats do: with live music and free-spirited dance at Hemmingway’s.

Staying Safe This is where we need to mention that, at press time, Thailand has reported 675,239 road injuries and 10,466 road deaths this year. These days, a lot of people on Koh Phangan have developed a bad habit of driving motorbikes without a helmet but with over-ear headphones on, completely tuning out traffic sounds. This is, frankly, a recipe for brain stew served on hot asphalt. You can currently rent a motorbike for B150/day at several shops near the Thongsala Pier. All offer helmets. Ask for one, and wear it.

Foods & Roots

neighborhood | Saphan Taksin

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

19

80/20

Wuatong Pochana

Sarnie’s

The Hidden Milk Bar

ATT 19

New Road Parallel to the Chao Phraya, Charoenkrung, Bangkok’s first functional road, is the ‘hood where buildings hold historical value, hip cafes spring up left and right, and vibrant murals color weathered walls down every soi.

By Supanan Anansuviroj

Coffee & Breakfast Cure your hangover with Sarnies’ avocado toast (with feta cheese, roasted tomatoes and dukkah on sourdough; 280) and an iced coconut long black (B140). Get jittery with more caffeine via a bottle of cold brew (B150) at eccentrically-designed Tangible. Drop

by Tokyo Hot for some khanom tokyo with tangy fillings like mala chicken (B30) and krapao moo (B35) before waltzing your way to Hei Jii across the street. They do ‘grammable Earl Grey chiffon cakes and financiers (both B150). Beat the heat with a scoop of uji matcha ice cream on a chocolate waffle cone (B79) at Milli House of Ice Cream, then continue along the road to sugar high with The Hidden Milkbar’s Jaffas milkshake (chocolate and orange; B160) or a strawberry milkshake (B165) at American-style diner Fats and Angry.

Lunch & Dinner You can find almost every cuisine the

world has to offer on the streets of Charoenkrung. From upscale street food like Wuatong Pochana’s guay tiew nuea with Qingdao-imported fen tiao noodles (B135) and Kua’s kua gai (stir-fried noodles with chicken; B89) and fried mantou (B29) to Thai cuisine with creative twists at 80/20—they’re offering a 10-course pre-monsoon season tasting menu (from B3,000) at the moment. Just a few steps away, Jua turned a former illegal casino into an uber-cool izakaya, serving a lineup of yakitori, ranging from chicken liver (B90) to angus beef (B250). To spice things up, try the chicken biryani (B165) and mutton butter (B325) at long-standing Himali Cha Cha and Son.

Drinks Snuggled in Charoenkrung 28, the tiki-inspired rum bar Tropic City shakes up refreshing concoctions (from B350). If jazz is up your alley, swing by Bangkok’s oldest live jazz institution Bamboo Bar on the first floor

BK ASKS

What makes Charoenkrung so cool?

The Hidden Milk Bar

HINPANU ATHICHATHANABADEE, FOUNDER OF TANGIBLE “Charoenkrung is a patchwork made of multiple cultures in each era, and that makes it intriguing.”

of the Mandarin Oriental for the real deal. Meanwhile, red velvet-draped To More takes musicals and turns them into inspiration for cocktails like Miss Saigon (gin, elderflower, thyme, lemongrass and egg white foam; B320).

Need some fresh air? High Tide Eatery and Bar offers prime views overlooking IconSiam and bustling Chao Phraya river. For a more laid-back vibe, check out the cult-favorite ramshackle river shack, Jack’s Bar.

Transport BTS Saphan Taksin.

Visit Awaken your inner hipster, load up your film camera and brace yourself for a photo-walking-slash-gallery hopping.

Start off by snapping some cool shots of Charoenkrung’s art hub Warehouse 30. Stop by freshly opened Aurum Gallery; they’re currently displaying contemporary paintings by influential artists like Barry Reigate and Ben Eine.

Meanwhile, the nearby mixed-use art

CHANOKCHON LEE, ONE OF THE FOUNDERS OF FATS AND ANGRY “It truly is a charming district. The combination of old buildings and street art—it’s like these buildings can tell their own stories.”

Hei Jii

hub ATT 19 showcases antique ceramics and sculptures. Immerse yourself in original pieces from the pioneer of pop art, Andy Warhol, over at River City Bangkok. A stone’s throw away, you can trip on alternative artworks at offbeat Speedy Grandma. Need to get your film developed? Hit up Fotoclub.

Accommodation Situated opposite Asiatique, Notting Hill the Exclusive Charoenkrung offers one-bedroom units from B14,000/month. Only a five-minute walk from BTS Saphan Taksin, you can get a one-bedroom for B25,000/ month at Rhythm Sathorn. Surrounded by the ‘hood’s hotspots, The Room Charoenkrung 30’s one-bedroom is priced from B28,000/ month. Moving a little closer to the river, one-bedroom apartments at Chatrium Residence Riverside will set you back at B35,000/month, while two-bedrooms at Menam Residences run from B60,000/month.

MOOK ATTAKANWONG, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ATT 19 “Unlike other neighborhoods, you can see the intersection of modern development and tradition fused together in a respectful manner.”