BK Magazine 798

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Backyard Garden Sansiri’s lush community project feels a world away from Bangkok In the Suburbs Why Ratchaphruek might make you swear off inner-city living Bar None How Bangkok bartenders pivoted to survive city hall’s sweeping orders Green Dream Meet one of the future leaders of Thailand’s cannabis industry

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NO. 798 JANUARY 29, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

HUNGRY FOR CHANGE

Home HOW BOLD ENTREPRENEURS for the ARE USING FOOD TO EMPOWER ATHolidays RISK COMMUNITIES

How to make the most of your festive season stuck in Bangkok

food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 29, 2021

02

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Café Kitsuné

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Ministry of Crab Bangkok Set on buzzing Soi 31, the restaurant stands out for its giant yellow crab set on a dark facade. Here, it’s all about meaty Sri Lankan crabs in various sizes, slathered in all types of saucy goodness.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Who's in charge?

BK EDITORIAL

04

Managing Editor Craig Sauers

upfront

Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley,

This 25year-old entrepreneur is raising the bar for Thailand’s cannabis industry

Veerabhatr Sriyananda Contributors Megan Leon, Chayanit Itthipongmaetee GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu Account Manager Summer Lee Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Digital Strategist Manasith Linananda Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana

03

Bangkok man “extremely disappointed” usual somtam vendor changes brand of fish sauce

Marketing and Events Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Marketing and Events Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Head of Business Development Chaz Kim Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Manager Sippakorn Prasert, Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Anuwattanawong,

05 cover

How food is helping to improve the wellbeing of at-risk groups in Bangkok

BANGKOK, THAILAND—Phaya Thai resident Somchai Na Ranong took to Instagram today to denounce his usual somtam vendor for changing her choice of fish sauce from Squid brand to Oyster brand.

Writing to his 139 followers, Somchai panned the perceived multidimensional flavor of Oyster brand fish sauce and declared he would not be returning to street vendor Jay Moo until she agreed to use Squid brand in her somtam again, punctuating his message by writing: “this town is really going to hell.”

Joseph Toh Business Development Executives Kornkanok Sriwaranant, Palita Nueangnit SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Interns Kanicha Nualkhair Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

Local reporters flocked to Somchai’s one-bedroom condo to get the scoop. After nearly a year of reporting on the Covid-19 pandemic and political unrest, many appeared disheveled and chain-smoked off the balcony, while a noticeable few seemed to not have showered for weeks.

ON THE COVER Illustration by Panita Thiraphapong

As Somchai described in exceptional detail how he was able to identify such a minute change—“my first clue was the shape of the bottle, and then I noticed she had covered up the logo with masking tape and had doodled a sort of squidlike shape on it”—a visible aura emanated from the pool of reporters.

08 lifestyle

Ikea drops a fashion collection

“Yes, great, uh huh, yes, tell us more, tell us more!” shouted the reporters as they jostled for position before an increasingly anxious Somchai.

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Meanwhile, tens of millions of viewers across a riveted nation tuned in to the controversy, eager to bathe in the fleeting bright light of mindless entertainment in an otherwise gaping black hole of reports on Covid-19 cases, lèse-majesté charges, and indefinite, quasi-stratocratic rule.

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09 neighborhood

Where to find us!

Ratchaphruek

“This is the worst thing to happen since that one meat-ona-stick cart moved from Silom to Sathorn,” wrote Tanupat Kongsaengchai on Twitter.

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open door

nightlife

Sansiri Backyard

The booze ban forces bars to adapt

Facebook user Kittisak Taweesuwan, however, chimed in to support the vendor. “This is defamation. I’ve been buying B30 somtam from Jay Moo for years. The taste has never been better. Saep weeeerrrrrrrr!” he wrote.

Online engagement ultimately shattered records, reaching levels not seen since Lin Bing the panda first arrived at the Chiang Mai Zoo. At press time, Somchai was seen speaking to state security officers, who reportedly offered “a big, fat check—at least B3,000” if he were willing to post about the flopping toy fish he bought for his Scottish Fold to further distract the nation from the total destruction of their already eroding democracy.

upfront HOT OR NOT

CAFE-HOPPING First things first: we have questions. Do you get coffee at each cafe? How many cups of coffee consumed in one day are enough to stop a human heart? It’s just about the photo, right?

Anyway, cafes are

This is what the future of Thailand’s cannabis industry looks like

opening at record pace. There are new ones (see p12-13).

There are foreign imports. There are second branches (Mother Roaster, Nana Coffee Roast-

INTERVIEW

ers). We’re baffled.

At only 25, Thanisorn “Phet” Boonsoong is already pioneering Thailand’s formal cannabis industry with his company, Eastern Spectrum. We spoke with Phet to discuss legalization, how cannabis could boost Thailand’s economy, and where weed is going in Thailand.

RESTAURANTHOPPING Aside from the fact that “hopping” from restaurant to restaurant sounds like a recipe for GI surgery, restaurants are in the hurt locker compared to their cafe counterparts. Restaurateurs have reported cratering revenue. Chirayu Na Ranong, owner of Chu and Fowlmouth, told The Bangkok Post that his business had only recovered 50-60 percent before the latest outbreak.

What is Eastern Spectrum, and how long has it been in existence?

Eastern Spectrum Group is a fully integrated cannabis plant cultivator and processor. We provide (primarily) hemp-derived cannabidiol (CBD) products.

We have been around for a little over a year, which is roughly about a year after the announcement of medical cannabis legalization in Thailand. We are currently working with two universities. Our work with Maejo University revolves around upstream innovation in unearthing new genetics and nutrient formulations to develop local agriculture while our collaboration with King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Latkrabang concentrates on downstream quality maximization. Among other things, we are exploring ways to increase the efficacy of CBD as an ingredient when incorporated into consumer products.

have strong foundations to rapidly grow the industry. Don’t forget: the informal industry has been around since our ancestors’ time, and cannabis can arguably be considered a part of Thailand’s cultural heritage. For starters, we’ve seen cannabis used in traditional Thai medicine manuals and, of course, food. Who hasn’t heard of guay tiew gancha?

Do you think cannabis has a social stigma attached to it anymore?

Not as much as before, to be honest. The media has been extremely helpful in shining a positive light on cannabis. We’ve actually seen a lot of Baby Boomers accepting cannabis as a natural alternative remedy, mostly for sleep. Hemp seed oil and CBD are also of interest to a lot of product manufacturers. If even our parents and grandparents are accepting of a formal cannabis industry, I think that’s a very good sign!

Do you think marijuana will be fully legalized in Thailand soon?

Definitely not. At least not in the near future. Thailand is taking steps in the right direction towards gradual deregulation of the industry, namely by first allowing its use medically, then for consumer product goods applications, and lastly general F&B consumption. But for recreational (smoking) use? I’m not too optimistic on that happening anytime soon. There’s still a lot to learn about the cannabis plant, and Thailand hasn’t yet developed sufficient infrastructure to safely facilitate the rollout of a recreational product market.

Has it been hard to convince the government that you guys are doing something that’s legitimate?

Not at all. We’ve been strictly abiding by the law and are doing everything aboveboard. That’s also why we’ve chosen to pursue an academic and research-driven approach to this business and are working with universities to legitimize the industry. Thailand is in such a good position to experience a boom from this opportunity and we want no part in demolishing the progress made so far by being the black sheep.

Not only that, but it’s not entirely up to Thailand to allow it either… until the UN changes its stance on cannabis, if Thailand allows an aboveboard recreational market, it’ll likely face sanctions, much like Canada is for its allowance of the recreational use of the plant.

What do you think the official position on cannabis is right now?

I think it’s very positive overall. The government is working hard to see deregulation come to fruition and to allow the industry to be born in a safe and controlled manner. Hemp, a subset of cannabis, is obviously seen in an incredibly positive manner. The laws are rapidly progressing for its incorporation into accessible consumer goods.

Cannabis (the high THC sort) is still a bit unclear. The lawmakers are trying to create value for it in the healthcare industry but are still concerned about the informal market and its psychoactive properties.

If it is legalized soon, what will that mean for Thailand and its economy?

I’d expect a noticeable surge in economic growth, although I may be a little biased. Thailand has some of the most optimal conditions for growing cannabis when compared to global competitors. With a potent combination of a skilled agricultural workforce and the government’s view of hemp as a new cash crop, it wouldn’t be a surprise by any measure to see a substantial rise in agricultural income. I hope to see the day when Thailand can reclaim its position as an agriculture export powerhouse, with cannabis as the facilitator of this achievement.

However, even at its current stage there is plenty of opportunity in the market, not only in the medical industry, but also in the consumer products category. I’ve seen CBD coffee, CBD energy drinks, CBD cosmetics, CBD water, and even CBD beer.

How far along is the cannabis industry here?

Still adolescent. There’s not a lot of knowledge and transparency, which comes as no surprise as it’s just been deregulated, but we

How do you feel about cannabis-based cuisine and some of the other novelties we’ve seen come out recently?

I’m personally very interested, although I do find it a bit ridiculous at times. Nonetheless, I’ve seen the ads for cannabis leaf krapao and can’t wait to try it!

As to why I think it’s sometimes ridiculous… this might come as a bit of a buzzkill, but don’t go trying these novelties expecting to come out giddy and high. The majority of cannabinoids (like CBD and THC) are in the flowers—not the leaf, stem, or roots. Although those parts of the plant may have other health or usage properties, they definitely aren’t the parts of the plant that are going to give you that “high” sensation.

By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

BOREDOM We have every episode of “Love Island” and “Crash Landing on You” at our fingertips, we have recipes we’ll look up but never cook, we have weekends that bleed into weekdays, we have 32 tabs open on dual monitors, and, omg, we’re so bored. There’s just so much not to do, we can hardly contain our lack of excitement.

QUESTIONS So Thanathorn, one of the most powerful figures in the movement for freedom of speech and political reform, among other things, gets slapped with cybercrime and 112 charges for asking very valid questions about Thailand’s vaccination strategy? The lesson we’re supposed to learn here is to listen and swallow it down, but never speak up if you have questions.

cover | stepping up to the plate

Hungry for Change Life has always been more difficult for the marginalized than the middle class, but there is hope. These Bangkok nonprofits are turning to food to empower at-risk communities.

By Megan Leon

IT’S A SCENE MADE FOR FILMMAKERS. ON A COOL, CRISP AFTERNOON, A GROUP OF CHILDREN ARE SITTING OUTSIDE IN A PERFECTLY MANICURED GARDEN, LEARNING ENGLISH. SUNLIGHT SOFTLY REFLECTS OFF THE HULKING, EGGSHELL-WHITE WALLS AND HOLY BASIL-GREEN SHUTTERS OF THE 122-YEAR-OLD BANGKOK 1899 IN THE NANG LOENG DISTRICT, FRAMING THE CHILDREN AND THEIR TEACHER. FAR REMOVED FROM THE CITY’S TORTUOUS WARRENS OF CONCRETE AND CHAOS, THE SETTING MAKES YOU QUESTION—IF ONLY FOR A MOMENT—WHETHER YOU’VE FOUND PARADISE. Sakson “Saks” Rouypiromis breaks the silence, as well as the cinematic mirage.

“You see the young girl sitting over there? She’s nine. Her mom is 17 years old and in jail, again,” he says.

Despite Thailand dubbing itself “the land of smiles,” the country’s sunny facade often maks darker issues: a problematic relationship with refugees, an overwhelming number of atrisk youth, and the taboo topic of disability discrimination.

There is hope, however, thanks to pioneers like Saks taking matters into their own hands and connecting with vulnerable groups through the one thing that connects us all: food.

Saks is well-known in the non-profit sector. The founder of Sati Foundation, launched eight years ago on the principle of helping at-risk and underserved families, Saks teamed up last year with Diloklarp “Him” Janthachotbutr to launch Na at Bangkok 1899. Originally known as Ban Chao Phraya Thammasakmontri, it was recently rebranded as a social enterprise-slash-arts and culture center hosting a caferestaurant as a collaborative space that uses food and drinks as a catalyst to create social impact. Among the litany of programs they manage are training and workshops for urban refugees as well as vocational training programs for at-risk youth, like the young girl he points out to us as he explains the project’s mission.

As The Bangkok Post recently reported, “[Inequality is] the root cause of many structural problems in Thai society. The lack

of social and political stability, the low quality of democracy, the flesh trade and human trafficking, crime, corruption... you name it. These social evils are different manifestations of structural problems that share the same root cause— inequality.”

While food might not seem the obvious conduit for addressing inequality, or for improving the lot of the estimated one million children who live in vulnerable conditions in Thailand and are “most at risk of being involved in the worst forms of labor,” according to UNICEF, Saks believes it’s the first step in a long journey toward knowing how to help oneself.

“Na is not only a restaurant or coffee shop—it acts as a training center,” he says, adding that most of the kids they work with didn’t go to school or learn how to read and “end up hating themselves.”

“We really try to turn that around from an early age and build them up to find their worth and understand the meaning of self-empowerment,” he says.

That vision was put to the test this year.

The restaurant had just opened its doors a few months before Covid-19 forced the founders to adjust their operating model. While Saks and Him were forced to shut Na’s doors temporarily, they turned the pandemic into a lesson in how to make lemonade out of lemons.

They turned Na into a hub for people to drop off donated goods and also acted as a soup kitchen for affected communities.

“We were providing 2,500 meals a week, which totaled to over a million meals [so far], thanks to the support of the community and chefs like Garima Arora (Gaa) and Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam (Baan Tepa), who had surplus food and would come by to cook or give us food,” notes Saks.

The Na at Bangkok 1899 team

Displaced but not in despair While Na works on giving Bangkok’s youth an opportunity to live a purposeful life, the people at Courageous Kitchen, a five-year-old, food-focused non-profit organization, work on providing financial support, education, and recreational activities for displaced refugee communities.

Owing to regional instability as well as its geolocation, Thailand has long been a common landing point for refugees.

The UN High Commissioner for Human Rights (UNHCR) reports that “today there are some 97,000 refugees in Thailand. Most refugees are ethnic minorities from Myanmar, mainly Karen and Karenni.” In addition, “there are approximately 5,000 refugees and asylum-seekers of some 40 nationalities who live in Bangkok and the surrounding urban areas.”

Thailand, however, is not a party to the 1951 Refugee Convention. Only in 2019 did it take a first step toward fulfilling its pledge to improve protection for refugees by initiating the National Screening Mechanism, which would help eligible refugees receive protected person status.

The reality is refugees in Thailand do not have it easy. Most have fled their home countries to avoid religious persecution or violence, forced exiles in search of a better life for their families. Many now live in constant fear of Thailand’s security forces, who are known for deploying mass raids to uncover people residing in the country without proper travel documents, a violation of Thailand’s immigration act— something Dwight Turner, the founder of Courageous Kitchen, learned the hard way.

Turner, a part-time blogger, teacher, and cook, is the heart and soul behind Courageous Kitchen. Originally a school teacher, Turner switched gears after volunteering at the refugee center run by the UNHCR, teaming up with his wife, Panisha Chanwilai, to launch the non-profit.

“I wanted to do more, so I started raising money for orphanages through events, but... people were more interested in the party than the cause. I moved on to teaching at the refugee center, and then I went into the communities, but about five months in, there was a huge raid and all my kids and their families were arrested,” he says.

While visiting the jail, he realized that many of the men were fathers and breadwinners and had been working illegally on construction sites to support their families; beyond documentation, jobs, or even a sense of belonging, these refugees and asylum seekers were living locked up in poorly kept confinements, in constant fear of running out of food.

“After visiting [a jailed refugee], both of us trying to communicate in our broken Thai for three days, I realized his

family was going hungry. He had five daughters and zero food in the house—all they had were five bottles of cooking oil,” he recalls.

Most urban refugees in Thailand live in a state of purgatory.

Unable to enter the system, they can’t work. That means they can’t provide for their families or send their children to school, which pushes many toward exploitative industries to make ends meet. And, even if they are granted refugee status, their chances of being resettled outside of Thailand are low, and they face very real health and safety concerns in the meantime, according to legal counselors Asylum Access.

Turner hopes to provide opportunities that might keep refugees out of harm’s way.

After launching their first cooking class for at-risk kids in 2017, the Courageous Kitchen crew started hosting tourists and locals to help raise funds for their programs. They also welcomed volunteers who wanted to share their time and skills with affected young groups, especially ones who were malnourished or had low self-esteem.

“Typically, Courageous Kitchen runs as a cooking school and offers walking tours. The money raised through these activities helps to fund rental costs, food costs, cooking classes, and English classes for refugee communities,” Turner says.

While the Courageous Kitchen receives the bulk of its financial support from these guests, its mission goes beyond the inner workings of the wok. Turner and company use the kitchen as a platform to educate and motivate young students through cooking, English, math, and basic business classes. They also bring their programs to the communities to encourage more nutritious eating and cooking methods at home.

Although the Courageous Kitchen has had to adapt to the lack of tourists in Thailand, Turner says they’re still going strong: currently, he and his team offer virtual cooking classes through Zoom and prepare plant-based meals for delivery in the kitchen of Bo.lan.

A first chance at a normal life Perhaps one of the greatest challenges facing at-risk communities in Thailand is a lack of awareness of their plight.

Not everyone, however, is closing their eyes to the problems The folks at Step with Theera, for example, are working to change the way Thailand views another major social stigma: people with disabilities.

In Thailand, there are more than two million registered people with disabilities. That means approximately three percent of the population has a disability. Yet fewer than 25 percent of them are employed, according to the International Labour Organization (ILO).

That’s where Max Simpson and partner Theeta “Uang” Hotrakitya come in.

Through their budding social enterprise and expanding restaurant group, Steps with Theera, the two hope to provide a bridge from education to employment for people with disabilities and special needs.

The seeds for the initiative were planted years ago, while Simpson worked in an eye-opening role as deputy head of a special needs school.

Dwight Turner of Courageous Kitchen

“They had children from age two to adults in their 30s, all in the same program, but the older guys never got the chance to move on into employment,” she says, adding that more than 90 percent of people with disabilities who finish primary school never advance beyond that point.

cover | stepping up to the plate

Steps with Theera

Disabilities often carry stigmas in Thailand. Family members tend to believe they are karmic justice for past misdeeds and find them shameful, according to Simpson.

“Once you leave Bangkok, when you’re in the provinces, there’s not a lot of awareness of disabilities. Many do not know that their child has anything different about them or that they might need extra support, especially if it’s learningrelated,” she says.

That leads to a jarring lack of inclusion for people with disabilities in the education system and workforce.

“There’s quite a big barrier to entry,” says Simpson. “Many adults have never met anybody different than them, and there’s a general belief that [a person with special needs] may be less capable, less of an asset to the team.”

The low number of employed people with disabilities is hard to reconcile with Thai law, however. The Quality of Life Promotion Act for Disabled Persons, enacted in 2007, requires every company with 100 employees on staff to employ one who is disabled or else pay a fine to the government that is equivalent to a minimum wage salary.

Many companies have not met that quota, whether by choice or because of the nature of the work they do. But Steps with Theera offers hope for a more equal future in which people with disabilities might enjoy the same opportunities for career growth as their peers.

Operating as a restaurant and school, Steps with Theera boasts specialists in mental health speech, language therapy, and occupational therapy who help to provide not just training and qualifications, but also real life experience. “[That] gives this platform where trainees get to experience real work with customers, who see them being valued, doing things that perhaps they didn’t expect they could,” she says.

The initial training, which lasts from six months to a year, happens at the main branch in Ekkamai, where special needstrained chefs, bakers, and baristas work as job coaches. “We offer everyday soft skills that anyone in the workplace would gain,” Max explains. “For example, can you turn up to work on time, are you dressed appropriately, can you resolve problems with your colleagues?” Aside from soft skills, the team also focuses on basic life skills, ranging from how to open a bank account and budget your money to using an ATM. Thanks to its efforts, Steps with Theera has so far teamed up with 20 employment partners who have agreed, in principle, to diversify their staff with their graduates. To this point, nearly half have completed diversity and inclusion training and are either actively employing Steps with Theera graduates or providing internships for its trainees.

Actions speak louder than words As the sun dives behind Bangkok 1899, Saks takes one more look out at the young girl learning English on the lawn.

“For two years, we’ve been working with social services to get her out [of her broken home],” he says with a hint of relief.

“Finally, we were able to get her into an all-girl Buddhist boarding school—fully covered. We drop her off next week.”

Were it not for initiatives like Na at Bangkok 1899, she might have become another statistic. There are 135 million people globally who suffer from acute hunger, according to the World Food Programme—a figure the group believes could double because of the current pandemic, affecting at-risk groups across the world, even in our own backyard. It’s one of many epidemics being exacerbated by another.

The problem is clear. The solutions, less so. But for the people behind Na at Bangkok 1899, the Courageous Kitchen, and Steps with Theera, food has been an effective agent of change.

Food passes no judgment. It sees no race, religion, or gender.

Through food, people at risk in Bangkok might have real, lasting opportunities to exit their limbo, and in the process it might make us all more empathetic of their circumstances.

“The feeling you get by stepping in and helping truly lasts forever,” says Saks.

Steps with Theera

Courageous Kitchen

hit list | lifestyle

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 29, 2021

08

Ikea’s first apparel collection has landed in Bangkok

LIMITED COLLECTION

After unveiling its first-ever clothing and accessories collection in mid-2020 at Ikea Harajuku in Tokyo, the Swedish furniture giant is ready to release it in Bangkok this month. Dubbed “Eftertrada,” which means “successor” in Swedish, the collection is a collaboration between Ikea Japan and Ikea headquarters in Sweden, with designs inspired by the people of Tokyo. The lineup includes t-shirts (B299), hoodies (B699), towels (B299), water bottles (B99), canvas totes (B199), face masks (free for Ikea Family members) and other accessories featuring the brand’s iconic logo and barcode print from its popular “Billy” bookcase. Bangkok is only the third destination to release the apparel collection in Asia, after Japan and Singapore. The Eftertrada limited collection is available at Ikea Bangna and Bangyai branches.

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Pavement’s new shop is a skater’s dream

SSAP teams up with Mutual Bar for a New York-inspired collection

Bangkok to nearly double max fares on BTS Sukhumvit Green Line

Calling all skaters: Pavement, the New Zealandhailing multi-label skateboard brand, has found a new outpost in Phrom Phong near Benchasiri Park. Decked out with raw concrete shelves and metal accents, the minimal space offers a good range of cult streetwear and skateboard labels, mostly from the US and UK, as well as a few from Thailand and Asia. Drop by to check out new apparel collections from go-to local brand Preduce, UK’s Places+Faces, and US’s RipnDip, as well as snazzy decks from Hockey and Pavement, to name a few. 594 Sukhumvit Rd. (between sois 22 and 24).

Open daily noon-9pm

Here’s a collaboration we didn’t see coming: local streetwear brand SSAP, known for its indigo-dyed staples, has teamed up with Phrom Phong hideaway Mutual Bar for its latest drop. Dubbed “BrooklynBangkok,” the collection is inspired by the founders’ mutual connection to New York City and features a menswear work shirt (B2,280) embroidered with SSAP and Mutual Bar’s logos, two screen-printed t-shirts (B980), and a face mask (B390). A special cocktail was created as part of the collection, but due to government measures forbidding bars from serving alcoholic beverages, you can only shop for the style pieces for now.

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Shortly after news leaked that the maximum fare on the BTS Sukhumvit Green Line might climb to B158 because City Hall can’t pay its bills to the Bangkok Mass Transit System, the Rail Transport Department insisted that the imposed maximum fare would put an unfair burden on commuters. However, despite the opposition, City Hall is so far sticking by its plan to raise the fare ceiling on the BTS Green Line train from B65 to B104 from Feb 16. Sophon Saram, chairman of the parliamentary transportation committee, meanwhile, said the maximum fare should be able to remain under B65 because of a forecasted growth in ridership.

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PILLOW HOUSE’S POP ART PILLOWCASES Jazz up your living room with these bold, beautiful pillowcases (B400); available at beinhome. store/pillowhouse

SURGICAL MASKS Exchange these for N-95 masks to protect yourself from the Great Smog (again).

PHILIPS AC1215/20 AIR PURIFIER Want to keep your home fresh and livable? This air purifier is currently 28-percent off (B6,490) at powerbuy.co.th

neighborhood | ratchaphruek road

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 29, 2021

09

James Boulangerie

The Lab Baar

The Block Ratchaphruek

Sousaku

Bodegas Wine

Thonburi’s

Coffee & Breakfast

Head to The Bloc Ratchaphruek for smoked salmon and eggs Benedict (B280) and a lod chong latte (B135) at Think Cafe. Right across the road is Ampersand Coffeestand & Design, where you can grab a refreshing cold brew lemonade (B145) or coffee-forPerhaps the poster boy for ward piccolo latte (B85). If you want some top-notch croissants without the rapid gentrification of having to go to Paris (or, you know, Bangkok’s outer reaches, IconSiam), venture to James BouRatchaphruek is growing langerie and try their dark chocolate faster and faster each croissant (B150) or a Kouign Amann month. From modish cafes, (B75), the hard-to-find French pastry. bustling community malls, Little Hideout Patisserie’s mango and sprawling housing yuzu tart (B235) and Le Petit Oasis (French-style mousse made from estates to impressive Kyoto-imported matcha, B175) certify bars and restaurants, this Ratchaphruek’s cachet when it comes predominantly residential to cafes. Caffeine junkies, meanwhile, area has it all. should visit the glitzy and much-hyped Nana Hunter Coffee Roasters to

By Veerabhatr Sriyananda refuel with a Dirty (B150), made with rich, milky, and nutty Brazillian beans, or the uniquely floral Kanda (B250).

Finest

Lunch & Dinner The Circle Ratchapruk pretty much has it all. For the health-conscious, Ohkahju fits the bill. Try the grilled

BK ASKS

Why is Ratchaphruek booming now?

Nana Coffee Roasters

shrimp and avocado salad (B325) or grilled seabass with mixed veggies and seasonal fruit salsa (B534). Phed Phed Bistro, on the other hand, serves zesty, fiery Laotian-style food, like somtam Luang Prabang (papaya salad with plara, B140) and classic kor moo yang (grilled pork collar, B160). Eyeing up international food?

Arno’s is stationed here as well, and their Carnivore Burger (300g of dry-aged beef, bacon, caramelized onions, and tomato, B330) will hit the spot. Head to Tuk Tuk Asian Streatery for classic Indian dishes like aromatic butter chicken (B220) or more adventurous options like naan pizza topped with chicken tikka (B120). For top-notch Japanese fare, Sousaku and its wagyu Kansai shabu set (B1,500) don’t disappoint. Tong Rim Taang offers down-to-earth Thai fare like crab omelets (B300) and moo krob khua prik kluea (stir-fried crispy pork belly with chili and salt, B120). If you miss your grandma’s cooking, head to Mangkud Cafe, where they serve homestyle dishes with an artistic spin, like pla haeng taeng mo (watermelon topped with shredded fish mixed with sugar and fried shallots, B120) and hom rak

PACHARA “JAMES” TAKERNGKIAT, OWNER OF JAMES BOULANGERIE “There are new roads being built, along with new MRT stations and tollway stations.

This makes it easy to go uptown and into town. There are also more community malls in the area. The locals here feel like they don’t need to go anywhere else since they have it all here.”

ANURAK PRAEROJANA, OWNER OF MANGKUD CAFE “It’s the perfect example of the gentrification that is happening around Bangkok. The BTS and the MRT make it much easier for people to come here from the city. It’s much more accessible.”

The Lab Baar

nai suan (mixed noodle salad with vegetables and seasonal fruit, B100).

Drinks The Lab Baar serves sci-fi themed cocktails like Ti22(Titanium) (brandyonion leaves, kahlua, sweet vermouth, B300), and Xe(Xenon) (gin, bianco, vanilla, apple, blue curacao, B300), which match with their neon-clad decor. Lad Phrao’s The Fat Cow has made its way to Bang Wa, bringing along their extensive selection of craft beers and lip-smacking burgers. Craft beer enthusiasts can also flock to Hey Dude afterwards for beers like Hitachino’s Espresso Stout (B250) and Anderson Valley’s Summer Solstice (B250). For a more refined vibe, make your way to Bodegas Wine for Spanish wines like Valduero Crianza (B2,200/bottle) and Astobiza Malkoa (B2,340/bottle). If you want the quintessential Thai outdoor drinking experience with live music, head to The Most Bar and Bistro and get a pint of Stella Artois (B250).

Transport

Visit For some unexpected agrotourism, head to Bang Wa Melon Farm for all things melon, from eating it fresh from the vine to learning about the many different varieties grown in Thailand.

Two of Bangkok’s most popular, street food-filled floating markets, Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market and Taling Chan Floating Market, are a ten-minute taxi ride from here. If you have a soft spot for art and history, nearby Baan Silapin, the century-old wooden house transformed into a public space celebrating traditional Thai culture, is a great place to visit.

Accommodation Aspire Sathorn-Ratchapruek has 1,049 units from B7,500-14,000/ month, while 834-unit The Key Sathorn-Ratchapruek will set you back from B9,000-17,000/month. The President Sathorn-Ratchaphruek comprises three 30-story buildings with 799 rooms from B8,000-20,000.

If you want more of a communal vibe, Charn Issara City Home will cost you B12,000 for a 70sqm room.

BTS and MRT Bang Wa are a five-minute taxi ride from Ratchaphruek.

KITTIPHUM NETSUWAN, OWNER OF THE LAB BAAR “Ratchaphruek has a lot of potential, like Thonglor or Silom.

Locals here don’t have to drag their way into town. That’s why we saw the potential to bring city vibes into the area with our bar.”

food & drink | news

Wishbeer is moving across the street and adding franchises upcountry WISH FOR MORE

One of Bangkok’s biggest booze delivery services is retooling its retail presence after nearly a decade in business due to pandemic pain and a marketplace that still favors monopolists. What grew from a delivery service for hard-to-find beers to fine spots for chilling out with quality drinks of all types, Wishbeer will move its one store across Sukhumvit Road into a smaller space at Summer Point next month to cut costs after sales collapsed upward of 70 percent last year.

This comes as Wishbeer fires up a franchise model, which has already added a couple of new spots outside of Bangkok. In the last week of 2020, a Wishbeer bottle shop landed in Udon Thani, where customers can browse for their favorite beverages. A week later, another operator opened Wishbeer Chiang Mai, a bottle shop with six taps in trend-forward Nimmanhaemin. This comes as craft beer leaders are questioning strict and often unevenly applied regulations on small alcohol players, from online sales bans to tight restrictions on advertising.

ON A WING

NICE BUNS

Bonchon flips the bird at tradition, serves up fried chicken for Chinese New Year

The Okura Prestige is back with its freshly baked seasonal Japanese soft buns

With Chinese New Year around the corner (Feb 12), South Korean-style, deep-fried chicken franchise Bonchon jumped into the market with an odd bird that might impress, or disgust, Thai-Chinese celebrating the occasion. Its new crispy twist on tradition, the Wai Jao Chicken is a whole chicken glazed in garlic sauce, double fried for extra crunch, and formed into a peculiar bird shape. The crispy bird is a departure from the customary whole steamed chicken, which is considered auspicious and denotes family unity.

The B688 item is available for pre-order from now until Feb 5 and will be available for offering up the spirits on Feb 11.

An annual Japanese treat is back at Phloen Chit’s fivestar Okura Prestige. Packaged six to a box, the hotel’s Japanese soft buns come in three different flavors: goma (sesame), yomogi (Japanese mugwort), and furikake (an umami-rich condiment), all best topped with a pat of lightly salted butter. The boxes (B290 each) are available from now onward and must be ordered at least 24 hours in advance by calling 02-687-9031 or emailing fbreservations@ okurabangkok.com. They can be picked at La Pâtisserie on the hotel’s ground floor from 7am-7pm during weekdays, and at Up & Above on weekends.

SO SUITE

Dine in privacy, get a complimentary night’s stay at Anantara Siam While the borders are closed, hotel rooms remain vacant, but the Anantara Siam wants to fill them up while filling you up.

Sign up for a private dining experience in one of the hotel’s suites, and you’ll get a complimentary night’s stay in a Siam Suite, too. The experience is curated by the hotel’s maitre’d, and guests can order from any of the hotel’s venues—Biscotti, Madison, Shintaro, Spice Market. The experience caters to groups of two to 15 (from B2,500++/person), and it’s even available on holidays like Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year. Call 02-126-8866 ext. 1201 or email dining.asia@ anantara.com to book.

food & drink | open door

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 29, 2021

11

On Nut’s green oasis has it all The buzz: Sansiri’s buzzing gated community, T77 in Onnut, welcomes its most engaging project yet, Sansiri Backyard: an urban oasis so green that not even Bangkok’s pollution can blot it out, complete with the gorgeous, sun-dappled Rong Sabiang restaurant.

The vibe: Situated in the outskirts of Sansiri’s ambitious mass development, where places like The Base, Habito, and Bangkok Prep all converge, Sansiri Backyard, dubbed a “green lifestyle community” covers an expansive open field boasting an organic farm studded with everything from duck ponds and chicken coops to rows of pesticide-free veggies from farmer friend Chul Farm. The familyfriendly space also plans to host open-air concerts where you can listen to music while satisfying your cottagecore yen, frolicking amongst the giant haystacks.

The food: Rong Sabiang, the farm -to-table, all-day dining venue, can be found at the forefront of the green space and is led by Nuttawat “Ball” Tarapiban, who also happens to be the owner and chef of Rongros in Tha Tien. With a retro Victorian vibe, the airy space reflects the outdoors with its green interiors, floral touches and plenty of natural light while the menu here is an ode to classic Thai fare and Western comfort food, incorporating all the freshest finds from the garden. Start your morning with the farmhouse granola (B150) served with fresh fruit and yogurt drizzled with honey. The chicken liver parfait (B280) is delicately smooth and creamy and topped with port, sherry, and

cognac before it’s given a touch of truffle oil. Thai favorites like the pla haeng tangmo (B220) balance fresh watermelon with fried snakehead fish, while the house favorite, the khao yum Rong Sabiang (B290), offers a little action while you eat: the colorful salad concoction of butterfly pea-tinted rice, pomelo, vegetables, and ground coconut is tossed with a spicy dressing at your table. Heartier mains include the char-grilled New Zealand rib-eye (B380) with jaew dipping sauce and the fried grouper (B260) served with a crispy mango salad.

The drinks: Lazing around the stunning green space is so much better with a drink in hand, and Rong Sabiang has got you covered with its list of refreshing mocktails and cocktails. The Royal Crimson (B180) marries freshly crushed pomegranate seeds with fresh lime juice while the Summer Blush (B180) offers a mix of watermelon with elderflower cordial. They also boast a vast tea selection such as the Centella Asiatica honey lemon tea; the Purple Rain with chrysanthemum, chamomile, peppermint, and butterfly pea flower; and the Ruby Rose with hints of roselle, rose petals, and sweet grass (B85 each, hot or iced).

Why we’d come back: With all the current restrictions, Sansiri Backyard feels like the perfect escape from Bangkok’s concrete jungle with its welcoming open spaces, delicious food, and ultra lush gardens. Bring a book, and you could end up staying the day. Megan Leon T77 Community, Sukhumvit Soi 77, 095962-4272

food & drink | open door food & drink | new and noted

TABLE TALK

Ginza Sushi Ichi LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-250-0014. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sun 6pm-10pm. Opening hours may vary, please check before visiting.

Holder of one Michelin star in all three Thailand red guides, and an official selection for BK’s Top Tables Awards for nearly every year of the restaurant’s existence, Ginza Sushi Ichi certainly does its mother branch in Tokyo justice with its uncompromisingly authentic omakase-style sushi.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select or Get 5% discount on food only for other Citi Credit Cards when spending THB 10,000 or more /sales slip (for lunch) or when spending THB 17,000 or more /sales slip (for dinner) 1 Jan - 30 Dec ’21

Tamp

NEW AND NOTED

Tamp brings Wong Kar-wai’s Hong Kong to Phrom Phong

Chim Chim brings big, bold comfort food to National Stadium

Ari adds another Hong Kong-cool Cantonese restaurant

Boasting a contemporary design punctuated by the aesthetic of Wong Karwai’s “In the Mood for Love,” Tamp is Phrom Phong’s latest Instagram hotspot. The gorgeous cafe, brought to life by Paradigm Shift, is more than just good-looking, though. Specialty beans transform classic Thai-Chinese drinks like the Old-Fashioned (hot coffee and milk tea; B120) while local flavors appear in drinks like the Frozen Black Tan (monk fruit juice with shaved frozen longan; B140), and dishes like kai kata (pan-fried eggs with minced pork, Chinese and Vietnamese sausage, and bread; B120) and Chinese chive cakes (B95). Avora 31 Residence, 28 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 098-881-6263

After opening rooftop bar Paradise Lost in late 2020, the Siam@Siam hotel continues its hot streak with Chim Chim. The all-day dining cafe unites coffee and comfort food made to share with tropical-cool art and design. Pop in for hearty morning bites like the Hangover Brekkie (B320), loaded with eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding, tater tots, sourdough toast, and more; two-hands-required sandwiches like the Chim Chim Burger (B400), loaded with two wagyu patties on a brioche bun; or a margherita pizza (from B220). Wash it down with a Roots cortado (from B90) or Monsoon tea (B100 hot/B120 iced). G/F, Siam@ Siam Design Hotel, 865 Rama 1 Rd., 02-217-3000

Upmarket Ari goes Chinatown chic with East Lane BKK. The neon-drenched restaurant, set in the same building as Aran Bicicleta, serves twists on Cantonese comfort food in a setting that recalls the new wave of restaurants in Hong Kong’s Soho district. Think drunken chicken (B200), crispy pork belly and barbecued pork with chili oil sauce (B160), braised Surin beef noodle soup with Japanese ramen noodles (B140), and the very Hong Kong double skin milk pudding (B60), stewed with a hint of ginger. East Lane also dabbles in modern traditions with drinks like the Qilin iced pearl milk tea (B60). 128/10 Phahonyothin Soi 2, 080-210-4242

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 29, 2021

13

Bonci

NEW AND NOTED

Another Hong Kong coffee brand opens up shop in Bangkok

Say hello to Saphan Kwai’s hottest coffee joint

BKK Bagels expands to Phrom Phong with a spacious second branch

Design- and lifestyle-oriented Noc has just opened off Sukhumvit Soi 40 at the new PowWowWow community mall, marking the brand’s first overseas branch. Here, the coffee geek favorite from Hong Kong is highlighting great beans from around the world, although its house blend incorporates beans from Nan, one of Thailand’s emerging coffee-growing hotspots. Try them in a dirty (cold milk topped with a shot of espresso; B120) or cappuccino (B140).

Then join the crowds of cafe ’grammers documenting the minimal, slate-gray interiors and their Hong Kong-style French toast (B200). PowWowWow, Soi Suk Chai 10, 097-171-2728

Bonci, Saphan Kwai’s hippest new cafe, is a two-story venture offering sun-bathed minimal interiors dominated by wood and navy blue accents. In other words, the perfect backdrop for Instagram shots. Grab a hot americano (B90) or caramel macchiato (B120) made from the house blend (Brazilian Samba beans) or special roasts (Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and Brazilian Samba beans). Or try signature hits like the Bimbom Cream (B150), a cream cheese latte served with whipped cream on top. On floor two, expect a bar to open sooner than later. G/F, Blu 395, 1477 Phahonyothin Rd., 064646-9245

Arguably the one food item Bangkok does not have nearly enough of, bagels are sort of a luxury item in this city.

Long-standing BKK Bagels, however, is trying to change that. The deli-bakery has just expanded its doughy network to Phrom Phong with a roomier second branch. Like its predecessor in Chit Lom, the new outpost on Sukhumvit Soi 33 brings a taste of New York to central Bangkok with a wide range of boiled-and-baked bagels (B40 each), schmears (B45 each), sandwiches (lox bagel sandwich, B230), chef’s salads (from B185), and beverages, from coffee (espresso, B50) to Italian soda (B65). 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-1070

TABLE TALK

Ginza Tenharu 3/F, Gaysorn Centre, Gaysorn Village, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-070-0014. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; TueSun 6pm-10pm. Opening hours may vary, please check before visiting.

Bangkok’s most pedigreed tempura omakase comes by way of Tokyo. The intimate dinners happen in an understated 12-seat space inside Gaysorn Village while two chefs man glass-encased frying stations, where they perform culinary magic on top-shelf ingredients like Hokkaido scallops, Kobe beef, creamy sea urchin and seasonal vegetables across 11- and 12-course menus.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select or Get 5% discount on food only for other Citi Credit Cards when spending THB 7,000 or more /sales slip (for lunch and dinner) 1 Jan - 30 Dec '21

nightlife | from bartender to barista

Thanachot “Ong” Lohanimit

Playroom, Ekkamai’s Fifty Shades Of Grey-inspired bar, has likewise temporarily rebranded as a cafe, a la Vesper. From now until further notice, the velvet-draped speakeasy is offering cafe bites, freshly brewed coffee, and mocktails.

Playroom

Bangkokians have always seemed to adapt effortlessly to crises, from floods to forced closures. Now, Bangkok bartenders are once again having to prove their resilience.

Playroom

swapping Cocktails for Coffee AFTER CITY HALL ORDERED BANGKOK BARS TO STOP SERVING BOOZE INDEFINITELY, AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE LOOMED FOR THE CAPITAL’S NIGHTLIFE. OR SO IT SEEMED. THE CITY’S TOP BARS AND BARTENDERS HAVE SWAPPED CRAFT COCKTAILS FOR COLD BREW COFFEE, KATSU CURRY, AND MORE, COMING UP WITH CLEVER SIDE HUSTLES TO STAY AFLOAT THROUGH THE LATEST CRISIS.

By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

With alcohol sales banned at bars, cafes, and restaurants for the second time in ten months—an ordinance that could cost the industry up to B9 billion in revenue, as reported by The Nation—bartenders and bar owners are not sitting idly by.

Whether it’s Studio Lam selling Thai dishes as “Studio Yum” or Khaosan Road’s Hippie de Bar reopening as a vintage flea market, the city’s revered nightlife institutions have pivoted left and right, launching revenue-generating side hustles that might help many survive until business can get back to normal.

Less than a week into 2021, Niks Anuman-Rajadhon and Gunn Leelhasuwan, two of the masterminds behind popular Soi Nana bars Teens of Thailand, Asia Today, Tax, and Black King, launched DSI, or Dim Sum International, an ad hoc project using recipes for old-school shumai (pork dumplings) for B10 a piece to help unemployed bartenders pay their bills. Rather than carving ice or shaking up craft cocktails, bartenders are now preparing dumplings and dishes like shoyu pickled egg yolks (B30), kanom jeen nam ngiew (B85), northern Thai laab (B100), cold brew coffee (B75), and milk tea (B65).

“We’re doing everything we can [to stay afloat], and every member of our team has been doing a lot more than what their job description says,” explains Sainisa “Jay” Sangsingkaew, owner of Playroom. “We’re lucky that some of our bartenders know how to make coffee—some were baristas before. We’re also lucky that we have Stage, our downstairs neighbor who is so adept at pastries and savory items, to help us out at the moment.”

While many venues are leveraging the talent of their bartenders or partner venues, some of the people who make your drinks are doing double duty, maximizing their skills to help their employers generate revenue while finding ways to supplement their own income. For them, the pandemic has provided unexpected opportunities.

At Thonglor hideaway Find the Locker Room, the management team was prepared for “second wave” pain. Not only is the bar offering sangrias, margaritas, and mocktails for takeaway, it is also operating as a cafe serving non-alcoholic beverages like cold-brew coffee and bubble tea, as well as bites like katsu curry bowls.

“People involved in the bar and nightlife industry have had to shoulder more of a burden than those who are involved in gambling or even human trafficking,” muses Gunn.

Like Niks and Gunn, the Vesper crew wasted no time shaking up their business model. First, they rolled out “buy now/drink later” vouchers (e.g., buy B2,000, get B2,500). Then, the team announced that the bar would rebrand as Vesper Caffe from Jan 11, serving mocktails, fresh juices, tea, coffee, and food in collaboration with Il Fumo, La Dotta, and 1919.

Vesper Caffe

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 29, 2021

15

Sainisa “Jay” Sangsingkaew

Meanwhile, Find the Locker Room bartender Thanachot “Ong” Lohanimit is selling deep-fried tofu sets (B79) via Instagram while he can’t be behind the sticks.

“I’ve experimented with my tofu recipe since the first lockdown in April,” he explains, noting how he discovered his appetite for vegan cuisine when he was sheltering at home with the rest of Thailand. “I’ve been wanting to do a project of my own for a long time, and I guess the opportunity presented itself in the most unusual of ways.”

Fellow Find the Locker Room barman Navaphol ”Pete” Uengsatienpong, on the other hand, came up with the idea to sell katsu curry. “My recipe is a mix of Chinese and Japanese curry styles that I’ve adapted to suit the Thai palate.

It’s something I’ve always loved to eat, and I thought that trying to sell it now wouldn’t be such a bad idea,” he says, noting that he nevertheless feels left out in the cold by the authorities.

“Sure, [the government] has allowed restaurants to stay open until 9pm, but what about us? They’ve completely shut us out,” he says with almost palpable frustration. “In my opinion,

Gunn Leelhasuwan

bars, specifically cocktail bars nowadays, have been good for Thailand’s image. People around the world look at Bangkok and see great cocktail bar-hopping opportunities. But I feel like we’re the forgotten ones.”

There seems to be a consensus among bartenders and bar owners that the government is not doing enough to help businesses that have lost revenue due to official mandates.

These periods of forced inactivity, however, have given many time to reflect on ways government officials should be working with Bangkok bars, both now and in the future.

“In my opinion, the government should come down [and visit us] to see how their actions really affect people,” argues Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana, Vesper’s bar manager. “There are many different kinds of bars and restaurants... there isn’t only one rule that applies to them all. Just think about fine dining and street food. There’s a big difference between the two and how they operate, right?”

Jay agrees. “The bar and nightlife industry is hugely important for the Thai economy, so it would be better if the government allows us to reopen, but with measures to curb the effects of the pandemic, like allow a certain amount of people inside at a given time while sticking to social distancing measures,” he says.

“We always comply with their regulations and orders,” Ong adds, hinting at a recent regulation that bans online alcohol sales. “They should give us more opportunities and platforms where we can sell or advertise our products, or else we really can’t survive.”

Vesper Caffe

Suppwait “Palm” Muttarattana

While all the bartenders and bar owners we’ve spoken to acknowledge they will be doing what they’re doing indefinitely to survive the latest alcohol ban, one in particular has advice for everyone to keep going, and keep believing in what they’re doing.

“Don’t just wait and hope that someone will help you, whether it’s the government or some other organization,” says Gunn, offering nuggets of life-coaching not as a side hustle but rather as a rallying cry in a period of uncertainty.

“I want everyone to do whatever they can to survive. Don’t give up.”

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2020

05