BK Magazine 799

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Crumb Trail Bite into Bangkok’s latest OTT food fad with our croissant guide Planting Ideas This couple is making the plant-based movement mainstream Break Even Why life is better than ever on the wrong side of Sukhumvit Chim Up Siam’s newest cafe-restaurant is all about bold art and comfort food

NO. 799 FEBRUARY 12, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

LET’S TALK ABOUT SEX

Put the stigma to bed

page 3

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Who's in charge?

BK EDITORIAL

03

Managing Editor Craig Sauers

upfront

Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley,

This couple wants you to open your mind to the power of the plant-based lifestyle

Veerabhatr Sriyananda Contributors Megan Leon, Angela Symons GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu Account Manager Summer Lee Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Digital Strategist Manasith Linananda

03

Officials throw hands in air, tell public to make their own Covid-19 policies

Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana Marketing and Events Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Marketing and Events Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Head of Business Development Chaz Kim Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Manager Sippakorn Prasert, Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Anuwattanawong,

04 cover

Meet the people busting Thailand’s taboos against sex and gender

Joseph Toh

Bangkok, Thailand—In a fit of exasperation and rage not seen since reporters grilled Prime Minister Prayuth Chanocha on the government’s purchase of pricy Chinese-made submarines, Thai officials today told the public to “make their own damn Covid rules.”

Saying he was “sick and tired” of answering questions about everything from cockfighting bans to vaccine procurement, sub-deputy commissioner to Thailand’s Center for Covid-19 Situation Administration (CCSA) Piyachai Sirirark acknowledged that the administration would be deferring to the public to do the job entrusted to elected officials.

Business Development Executives Kornkanok Sriwaranant, Palita Nueangnit SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Interns Kanicha Nualkhair Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

“How can we possibly understand how all of your businesses work? Do you expect us to be experts in bar management, bullfighting, education, and economics? Who do you think we are?” he roared in a fit of apoplectic fury, knocking over a flimsy plastic guard erected in front of the dais as he responded to a reporter’s question about how officials had come up with seemingly arbitrary numbers for reopening schools and meeting venues. (Currently, schools with up to 120 students can reopen, while meetings, seminars, and charity events can resume, but with attendance limited at 100 people, and no alcohol or dancing.)

ON THE COVER Illustration by No Word For This

08 lifestyle

IV drip bars have arrived in BKK

Some Bangkok residents reported being blindsided by equally confused public servants, who were sent out on a goodwill-building mission meant to burnish the image of the Ministry of Public Health.

BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication.

Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam Operations Manager Clarissa Cortes coconuts.co

A refrigerator repairman based in Ratchada said one official had offered him apparently conflicting ideas to pitch. “He suggested providing customers with a rundown of my past month, down to the minute, even telling them when I went to the bathroom, to prove I didn’t have Covid-19 before I entered their homes,” he said. The official also told him to “do repair work remotely” whenever possible, he added.

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09 neighborhood

Where to find us!

Coconuts BK Limited

Thonglor Sois 36-38

Phuang malai vendor Narin Tumprakorn, who sells floral garlands to drivers waiting at traffic lights, admitted he was baffled when a local official ordered him to illustrate how garland vendors could safely return to work. The flow chart and flyers, the official said, needed to be optimized so that they could be shared across social media channels.

111 Room 5A, 5th Floor We Space Building, Soi Thonglor 5 Khlong Tan Neua, Wattana Bangkok, 10110 Tel: 02-041-5755 Email: info@bkmagazine.com

BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited.

The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request.

Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.

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11

14

open door

feature

Chim Chim

Bangkok’s top spots for croissants

“To tell the truth, I don’t own a computer, so I’m not really sure where to begin,” said Narin.

Meanwhile, bar owners lobbying the CCSA for dialogue about how the nightlife industry could safely get back to business were told to fax their request to the Ministry of Public Health and “come back later—maybe in two months” to receive a non-response to their queries.

upfront HOT OR NOT

PASTRIES Aside from the fact that pastries tend to be literally hot, the chemical coming together of butter, flour, and sugar is red hot in the figurative sense, too.

And not just croissants (see p14),

This couple is taking Bangkok’s plant-based scene to new heights

the totally not new baked good that for some reason has us all queuing up as if we’re desperate for our wartime rations.

Almond tarts, berliners, blueberry

INTERVIEW

muffins—pastries

The plant-based movement in Bangkok has started to boom, and it’s all thanks to people like Max and Joanna Hellier, the two enthusiastic founders of plant-based blog and sustainability platform Root The Future. We got in touch to learn more about what the plantbased movement means for the planet and why we all need to be more eco-friendly.

How did Root The Future begin?

Before Root The Future, we were developing a sustainable, solarpowered, luxury plant-based hotel concept, and then Covid hit. It just wasn’t the right time for any type of tourism, so we took a step back and thought that this is the perfect time to spread the message about the climate crisis and how we can all… reevaluate the way in which we are treating our planet.

What are you trying to achieve?

Many people are unaware just how huge the impact our food has on the environment. We try to include educational information about plant-based food and why it will help save the world. We [also] want to make plant-based food as accessible as possible so it’s easy for people to switch to if they want to. Finally, we use entertainment to approach the subject of sustainability. Food choices can be a hard subject to address, especially when we are talking about how food affects the future of our planet. Using entertainment helps us to raise this subject in a way that doesn’t attack anyone or anyone’s choices.

What are some of the most commonly asked questions you receive from fans?

“How can I eat enough protein on a plant-based diet?” and “Where can I find cheap plant-based food?”

Protein deficiency [in the plant-based diet] is pretty much unheard of. The only time this occurs is when there is a calorie deficit, and this would be the case with any diet that is calorie deficient. The second question is a little less easy to answer. Beans, rice, legumes, fruit, and veggies are the cheapest foods you can buy… the cheapest plant protein (soy beans) is 20 times cheaper than the cheapest beef per gram of protein. However, Thailand has a street food culture, and most people tend to dine out rather than cook at home.

are blowing up our

DIETS Pretty sure January was supposed to be the month we all devoted time and attention to our health and wellness instead of, you know, schlepping around in pajamas and eating our own body weight in pastries while gyms citywide largely remain off-limits. Better luck next year.

feeds right now.

plant-based meat with the thought that it won’t taste the same. But Thailand has some amazing plant-based meats that taste literally no different and have very similar protein content to meat. Some are so close that they’re difficult for some vegans to eat because they taste too real.

What are some things everyone can do to reduce their impact on the environment?

The one thing we can’t stress enough is how much of an impact your food choices have on the environment and essentially the future of our home. Oxford University released a study in 2019 that found switching to a plant-based diet is the single biggest act you can take to reduce your environmental impact.

Food waste is also a big one. It’s estimated that if food waste was a country, it would be the third biggest emitter in the world after the US and China, so make sure you eat your leftovers.

Highs and lows from the Root The Future festival?

This was the first time we’ve ever organized such a huge event. I can remember a few occasions where we were both in tears at about 4am trying to get everything done and thinking, “Why the hell are we doing this again?”

The day before the festival [held in On Nut in October], the site got flooded due to heavy rain and we had to bring in a big machine to pump it out. On the day of the festival, it was also raining. The protests were happening, the BTS was closed, and we thought all the effort had been for nothing. But soon after we opened and thousands of passionate people came flocking in with their reusables, umbrellas, and excitement. It was so amazing to see that so many people are not just ready for a sustainability movement, but they’re hungry for it.

What are your thoughts on Bangkok’s plant-based scene at the moment?

Last year we saw the plant-based industry absolutely boom, and it has been the same this year. For vegan fine dining, there are [now] quite a few options in Bangkok, including Haoma, the Mandarin Oriental, Sindhorn Kempinski, and Bo.lan. We visited Igniv at the St. Regis a couple of months ago and the food was wonderful. But our favorite places always tend to be the ones that aren’t fine dining, like Bonita Social Club, Khun Churn, Vistro, Bangkok City Diner, Barefood, and Golden State.

What’s your message for people who are new to plant-based cuisine?

There are three key things you have to remember when switching to a plant-based lifestyle. One: It’s not a diet. Yes, it’s better for your health and great for weight loss. But if you restrict calories you will feel horrible (the same for any diet), and you will go back to eating calorie-dense, high-fat animal foods in no time. Two: Eat everything you love, but just make it plant-based. As the vegan saying goes, “Anything you can eat, I can eat vegan.” Three: Remember why you are doing it. Whether you’re eating plant-based food for environmental, health, or ethical reasons, always remind yourself why.

Do you think it’s hard for Thai people—most of whom are avid meat lovers—to give plant-based food a serious shot?

Yes. The main reason is that plant-based protein isn’t seen as “real” protein. This is another misconception we often debunk on our channels. Another reason is the taste. Some people are reluctant to try

By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

THAI FILMS For the first time ever, a Thai-directed film has won an award from the Sundance Film Festival.“One for

FILMS IN THAILAND

the Road,” directed

When “One for the

by Nattawut “Baz”

Road” is released

Poonpiriya—best

in Thailand, it won’t

known for his critical-

be shown at one

ly acclaimed, exam-

of Bangkok’s last

cheating thriller “Bad

remaining indie

Genius”—and pro-

cinemas. The Bangkok

duced by Hong Kong

Screening Room will

auteur Wong Kar-wai,

be closing after Mar

took home the World

31, as the resurgent

Dramatic Special

pandemic continues

Jury Award: Creative

to put the squeeze on

Vision, one of three

small businesses in

awards for which it

Thailand. The closure

was nominated.

of the 52-seat cinema in Silom leaves the city with just a handful of venues that screen art house, foreign, and independent films.

cover | good vibrations

LET’S TALK ABOUT SEX Despite its reputation as a free-wheeling never-never land, Bangkok doesn’t necessarily have a healthy relationship with sex. But that could be changing. We meet the people challenging Thailand’s culture of denial and breaking the taboo.

By Angela Symons

“

I speak directly. I use the words pussy and dick—I just blurt it out,” Chitlada “Kui” Promlumpuk declares. Her candor contradicts a quietly held truth, and she knows it.

“Sex is not something people talk about openly [in Thailand],” she adds.

Known among friends as Thailand’s answer to Samantha Jones, the sex-positive protagonist in HBO’s “Sex and the City,” Kui was thrust into the spotlight last year when the hugely popular media platform Echo reached out to her to host a sex toy review video. The response was unprecedented. It became Echo’s “Video of the Year,” racking up 8.3 million views, 21,000 likes, 3,500 shares, and over 2,000 comments— the overwhelming majority of which have been positive. This is despite the fact that sex toys are classed as “obscene objects,” their trade and distribution punishable with up to three years in prison under Thai law.

“Even the channel didn’t think people would consider sharing the video, so it’s a big thing— obviously the dynamic has shifted in Thailand,” she says. “Thai people are curious.”

It’s no wonder people are hungry for insights. A 2016 UNICEF report on sex education in Thailand concluded that “many institutions teach about sexuality from a point of view that emphasizes the negative consequences of sex and does not cover positive aspects.” All those surveyed for this story recalled little to no education on contraceptives, let alone pleasure, while the primary focus of sex education in school was often on abstinence.

This “hear no evil” approach has had subtle, even subliminal effects on Thai society that some say have held back development. “Birth control and sexually transmitted disease are still big problems,” says Watjanasin “Note” Charuwattanakitti, the owner of erotic art museum Kamavijitra, Green Lantern, and

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2021

Reach affluent urbanites through our trusted guides.

To be featured, contact us at advertising@coconuts.co 02-041-5755

05

cover | good vibrations

Palette Artspace. “Getting pregnant at a young age destroys the lives of teenage parents. Most of them stop going to school. If people in the 50+ age bracket were more open about sex, they could educate their children on how to avoid this situation.”

As reported by the Bangkok Post, a total of 63,875 children were born to mothers aged under 20 years old in 2019—a figure that has been blamed on the lack of access to contraceptives and the “negative perceptions from service providers and society in general towards teenagers who use birth control.”

Kui believes sex toys could be a silver bullet. By helping young people engage with their sexual energy in healthier ways and equipping them with knowledge rather than shame, she believes the teen birth rate might go down. But her views aren’t shared by Thailand’s ruling elite.

When human rights activist Nisarat “Tuk Ta” Jongwisan took to Thai PBS’s “Policies by the People” to pitch the legalization of sex toys back in 2018, she was met with retorts that it would breed sex-crazed teenagers and increase sex-related crimes. The Ministry of Culture’s Salinee Chumsawan suggested that sexual desire could instead be curbed by exercising and meditation.

“That is a very negative view,” Kui argues. “Sexual desire is a natural behavior. It seems unrealistic and unhealthy to try to impose laws on nature.”

Determined to normalize the topic, she has launched her own podcast, Sexducation. Covering everything from female masturbation to the Madonna-whore complex to practical sex tips, the no-holds-barred show has shot to number 25 in the Thai podcast charts in just five months. Perhaps most surprising is her core listener demographics, which fall between the ages of 18-22 and 50+.

That isn’t the only sign that Thailand’s older generations are ready to talk about sex in more open terms. The Bureau of Reproductive Health recently launched a Line-based sex-ed resource called Teen Club. Part of an initiative to reduce Thailand’s high teenage pregnancy rates,

the account features useful and straightforward information about contraceptives and how to communicate more openly about sex.

Even so, many women, in particular, still lack the negotiation skills and empowerment needed to advocate for themselves in the bedroom— not just in terms of consent and contraception, but also pleasure. Kui says access to sex toys could play an important role in the latter.

“Some of my female friends don’t even understand what an orgasm feels like,” she says. “It really makes me sad. [Sex toys] give women a better chance to really understand their needs.”

Kui isn’t the only one preaching female empowerment to an increasingly captivated audience. Enter Madame Rouge, the brains behind Maison Rouge, a women-focused event space that opened in Ekkamai in October amid protests championing women’s rights.

The Hong kong-born performer, who requested to be identified by her stage name in order to separate her personal and professional lives, believes Thailand is experiencing a “moment” and might be warming up to more open attitudes toward sex and the body.

“All these young people are finally going against what they’re taught and talking about the female body, abortion, and all that,” she says.

“If I was in another city at this time, something like this would have already happened. And maybe five years later, something like [Maison Rouge] would have already popped up.”

Through burlesque shows, sensual dance classes, queer women’s

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 22, 2021

07

THE SEX EDUCATION YOU NEVER HAD 9AM: SOCIOLOGY Join the discussion on legalizing sex work with A Day’s “Sex is More” Podcast bit.ly/2KZV0wY

nights, and workshops covering everything from self-defense to sexual trauma, Madame Rouge hopes to build a supportive community and safe environment for people to learn, heal, share, and explore.

situation. Nevertheless, audiences can still get their kicks. Madame Rouge swears burlesque is the perfect event for a date night, because “it’s sexy, it’s sensual, it’s classy—it’s almost like foreplay.”

Perching on a pink velvet chaise lounge amid racks of colorful outfits for her burlesque shows, she extols the Thai capital’s need for this.

“Bangkok is definitely built for men, both straight men and gay men— they have the entertainment, everything.” For some, it may seem strange to counter male-focused “entertainment” with burlesque— essentially another form of stripping. But Madame Rouge believes burlesque shifts the dynamic from exploitation to one of power.

Censorship of the female body is often taken to the logical extreme in Thailand, with cleavage on catwalks stirring moralistic furor and even the chest of Japanese cartoon Doraemon blurred on TV. At its most sinister, this speaks to the culture of victim-blaming and “slutshaming,” which has seen authorities advise women not to dress “sexy” during Songkran to avoid sexual assault back in 2018 and continues to deny rights to sex workers today.

10AM: ART Explore the minimal, erotic drawings of Thai artist No Word For This IG @nowordforthis

“The difference is who you’re doing it for,” she explains. While stripping is often a means to an end for performers, burlesque dancers have agency by way of their stage personas. “They are like their own starlet, so it’s for themselves.”

Bare breasts haven’t always been a point of controversy in Thailand.

Until Plaek Pibulsonggram outlawed them in his “civilizing,” Westerninfluenced cultural mandates of 1939-42, they were a common feature of traditional Thai dress. The latest exhibition at Note’s Palette Artspace, “Pillow Book” by Lamphun-hailing artist Nit Chaingewkham (running until Feb 20), harks back to a Thailand free from Western ideas of indecency and immorality.

11AM: LANGUAGE Find out what what BHBT, NG, PT mean with this vocab lesson from “Sexducation” apple.co/36txnnS

The mostly female audience that Maison Rouge draws speaks to this understanding of the artform. “It’s just nice to see the performer up there having fun, and so confident, so comfortable with themselves,” says Madame Rouge.

“You think you’d be nervous, because you’re really vulnerable—you’re pretty much up there naked. But it’s the opposite, you almost feel invincible,” she adds. “That’s exactly what I would call empowerment.”

Taking nudity out of the shadows and into the spotlight comes with no shortage of ironies unique to a nation where the sex industry hides in plain sight, however. “It’s not easy to do burlesque in Thailand.

At clubs, we are not allowed to get down to pasties [nipple covers].

The most we can get down to is lingerie,” she explains of the legal

In works that combine traditional Thai mural painting with Chinese and Japanese erotic arts, Nit refocuses images of love-making as a “natural demonstration within the flow of the universe… an open representation of spiritual expression… dissociated with the taboo of obscenity.” Couples are invited to utilize the exhibition as a tool to connect: “By contemplating the art in their private space, lovers can provide [replicate] the best of each position, and together achieve the joy in reaching the perfect harmony of Yin and Yang.”

Note has been hosting erotic art exhibitions for years at the clandestine, back-alley Green Lantern Gallery, however neighboring Palette Artspace offers a new level of visibility, its huge floor-to-ceiling windows directly visible from BTS Thonglor.

Through this exhibition, he hopes to break Thailand’s outdated, colonial notions of a demure and “civilized” society, challenging conservative naysayers who dismiss erotic art as pornography. “I would like to show viewers that, in the past, the topic of sex was very normal,” he explains. By using art to break the silence, he believes the whole of society can benefit. “When we do not talk about sex, does it help our country to develop? No, it does not.”

Resources are evolving, and so, it seems, is the very idea of what a society should be. With event spaces offering couples the chance to engage with sexuality in guilt-free settings, outspoken activists sparking meaningful dialogue about love and pleasure, and protestors championing causes of feminism and diversity, the city seems to be enjoying a sexual awakening. Maybe soon, like Kui, more Bangkok residents will be willing to say the words they have on their minds.

1PM: HISTORY Head to Green Lantern Gallery for a glimpse into the history of sex in Thailand, and their latest exhibition on Shibari (Japanese rope bondage).

1045 Sukhumvit Rd.

2PM: CRITICAL THINKING Get to grips with the intricacies of consent by joining Facebook community Thai consent fb.com/thaiconsent 3PM: HEALTH Visit @teenclub on Line for straightforward information on contraceptives and more from the Bureau of Reproductive Health

hit list | lifestyle

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2021

08

Revitalize your mind and body at this swanky IV drip bar

WELLNESS

Forget hybrid workouts, superfood smoothies, or skin lifting facials—the IV drip bar is the hottest wellness trend this year. IV drip therapy, also known as intravenous therapy, is said to be the fastest way to deliver nutrients and minerals throughout the body by injecting them directly into the bloodstream. Seriously. For health junkies wanting to dabble in this new wellness fad, Vivid by Verita Health at the Anantara Siam hotel is where you want to be. The hotel’s swanky IV drip bar, anti-aging, and aesthetics hub provides therapies and treatments claimed to return vigor, energy, and balance to busy city-dwellers. Take your pick from their extensive IV menu, which includes drips for beauty, hangovers, energy boosts, and mental clarity. To kick-start your 2021, from Feb 14-28, the treatment facility is offering couples a two-for-one Valentine’s Day package starting from B5,960. Expect a spa-like pampering session coupled with a powerful, immune-boosting trio—IV Drip, Oxygen, and Luminette Light therapy—that is claimed to recharge your internal system by increasing oxygen levels in the body and balance circadian rhythms to improve sleep quality, increase energy levels, and reduce fatigue. Wowza! Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155/5 Rajadamri Rd., 02-003-4918. Open daily 11am-8pm

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Starting Jan 29, everyone from members of the public to private businesses can apply to grow hemp in Thailand legally. Those who apply and get approval will be allowed to acquire, produce, sell, and possess hemp, which, not to be confused with cannabis, was delisted as a Class V narcotic in November. Parts of hemp can be processed to make medicine, food, cosmetic products, and dietary supplements. Bangkok residents can apply at the FDA’s head office inside the Ministry of Health in Nonthaburi province.

Multi-label streetwear brand Carnival has branched out from limited-edition sneakers and street style-focused apparel to unveil its very own furniture line. Dubbed “Home & Away,” the camping-themed lineup sports Carnival’s signature minimal-cool aesthetic, featuring portable and lightweight pieces ideal for both indoor and outdoor use. Highlights include a folding stool (B990), lounge chair, plastic crate table, trolley, and canvas trays (from B650). Available at Carnival, Siam Square Soi 7, 02-252-4215. Open daily 11am-8pm; and at carnivalbkk.com

Following its recent releases of the iPhone 12 and the new iPad, MacBook Air, HomePod, and Apple Watch, Apple still managed to surprise fans with its last new product release of 2020: the Airpods Max. This is the tech giant’s first wireless noise-canceling headphones, and everything about them screams luxury, especially the, ahem, B19,900 price tag. Boasting a stainless steel frame that’s wrapped in a soft polyurethane material, a breathable knit mesh canopy headband, and rotatable magnetic ear cups, these airpods promise a bunch of smart features to boot. But can they justify the eyewatering high price? You be the judge.

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neighborhood | sukhumvit sois 36-38

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2021

09

Hands and Heart

Toby’s

Toby’s

Yard Bar

Sukhumvit 36

Evens Up Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor) may be a hub for all things hip and exclusive, but there’s a lot going on now on the other side of the tracks. The quieter parallel sois of Sukhumvit 36 and 38 are home to some of Bangkok’s best brunch spots, low-key craft beer bars, and charming cafes. Here’s what it’s like to live in Thonglor’s serene evennumbered sois.

By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

BK ASKS

Why is life better on the other side of Sukhumvit?

Coffee & Breakfast Wake up with a dirty chai (espresso, steamed milk, and spiced black tea; B120) and a filling Bluedye Breakie (two sunny-side up eggs, sausage, ham, bread, and green salad; B250) at photogenic Bluedye Cafe. Or drop by cozy Caffe Olives for their homemade sourdough brulee French toast (B180) before venturing down to Ccup Cafe for a refreshing Thai milk tea (B50). On Soi 38, minimalist Hands and Heart serves seriously good hand-brewed coffee made from high-quality singleorigin beans (B180 for the Kenya Kamwangi washed process), while its all-day brunch sister H Dining doles out comforting dishes like B&Waff (sourdough waffle, smoke bacon, duck egg, avocado, caper berries, and maple syrup; B180). If you’re all about egg-centric fare and healthy drinks, don’t miss Toby’s cold-pressed juices (from B150) to go with your Egg Mikado (sourdough topped with two poached eggs, cured salmon and orange hollandaise sauce; B320).

H Dining

Lunch & Dinner Don’t miss the drool-worthy Neapolitan pizzas, cold cuts, and other heartwarming Italian dishes at L’Oliva Ristorante Italian & Wine bar or full-flavored American-style comfort food like the pastrami burger (B280) at Schnitzel’s and the Dick’s Original (B95) served with cheesy fries (B140) at Dick Hotdog. A slew of Thai eats can also be enjoyed between these two sois—Oysters Queen for zesty poo dong (pickled crab; from B450) served with seafood sauce; Karaked for yum mama (spicy instant noodle salad; B180); Boonlang for braised chicken noodles (B50); Jok Sukhumvit 38 for century egg and pork congee (B55); Rasri Kha Moo for braised pork leg on rice (B50); and upscale Vivarium for kaeng som pla hima (snow fish in Thai sour curry; B540). Fusion restaurant Sundays, meanwhile, offers slightly more out-there dishes like spaghetti with salted egg and crab cream (B340) and Korean-style stir-fried mama

LALINA PAISARNSRISIN, FOUNDER OF CAFFE OLIVES “Equally accessible to the bustling Thonglor side from the BTS, sois 36 and 38 have more of a peaceful, residential charm.”

PATARIYA SIRODOM, CO-FOUNDER OF CCUP CAFE “Soi 36 coveniently connects to Rama 4 and Sukhumvit but still remains pretty quiet.

It’s home to diverse businesses, too.”

L’Oliva

noodles with crying tiger beef and a fried egg (B280). If you’re in the mood for Cantonese cuisine, hit up Jin Mun Lou for their signature crispy duck guitar (from B300).

Drinks Beer drinkers probably already know about Duke of Beerington, whose fridges are stocked with dozens of fresh craft beers for takeaway or to drink in the one-room bar. But they can also hit up Yard Bar for their signature 700ml Yardie (B360) followed

by Uppercut Beer for a Deep Creek Zen Hazy IPA (B321). For special occasions, check out L’Oliva for wine, the rooftop bar at soon-to-open Japanese club AQ Gourmet & Dine for sake, or the retro-style speakeasy Middle Bar for cocktails.

Transport BTS Thonglor is just a stone’s throw away.

Visit Get whipped into shape at Powerbreathe Pilates Studio or at the HIIT and strength-based specialist Base.

Looking to unwind? Head to Preme Spa (B800 for a 60-minute Thai massage) or No.38 Infinite Natural Spa (B1,300 for a 60-minute aromatic massage). Art enthusiasts can check out Art Gallery 36 for art paintings on sale or Karmavijitra for a look back at erotic art through Thai history, while fashionistas can visit Azur Tokyo for luxury label bargains.

Accommodation Close to the BTS, Noble Remix offers 40 -sq-meter one-bedrooms starting from B16,000/month, while two-bedroom apartments at The Esse Sukhumvit 36 will set you back a lofty B72,000-90,000/month. Further down, Rhythm Sukhumvit 36-38 offers 496 units from B12,000-80,000/ month. Bored of condo living? A two-bedroom apartment at Sunshine Court starts at B24,000/month.

JACK THOMAS, FOUNDER AND CEO OF BASE “The old charm of soi 38’s street food has been somewhat replaced by a selection of restaurants and coffee shops that provide a great escape from the intensity of Sukhumvit.”

food & drink | news

Soul Food Mahanakorn is closing indefinitely FAREWELL FOR NOW

After more than a decade in business, Thonglor restaurant Soul Food Mahanakorn has closed indefinitely. In an Instagram story posted on his personal account in early February, restaurant coowner Jarrett Wrisley noted that Soul Food Mahankorn’s bar program “has always been an integral part of our business” and cited alcohol and operating hour restrictions that have “hurt us in unmanageable ways” for the decision to close. Wrisley, however, ended with a note of optimism, saying that the closure was expected to last four to six months, and that the restaurant team would save its remaining resources for a planned reopening.

The closure of this pillar of the Thonglor community comes just months after the restaurant celebrated its tenth anniversary, and amid a year of uneven regulations and decimated tourism numbers. In late January, government officials elected to extend an indefinite ban on the sale of alcoholic beverages at bars and restaurants—a key source of revenue for the hospitality industry—citing fears that it could lead to the continued spread of Covid-19.

GET CANNED

HOLEY MOLY

This Chiang Mai coffee roaster is upgrading your canned coffee

Holey Artisan opens its biggest outlet yet

After two years of development, Chiang Mai coffee company Graph has perfected its formula for canned cold brew coffee and is ready to release it to a caffeine-needy nation. Starting now, you can order packs of four (B500), available for delivery nationwide. The signature product is made with the coffee roaster’s Wild Weekend blend, a fruity yet creamy roast made with three different kinds of beans from northern Thailand. Graph is also rolling out a handful of other canned products, including three different cola flavors (coffee, original, and orange) and lightly effervescent ginger lemonade. Order via Line @graphcoffeeco.

Holey, bakers of sought-after sourdough loaves, croissants, and baguettes, makers of ridiculously good paninis and pastries, has opened a massive new branch in the Phra Khanong back sois. Called Holey Mothership, this new space on Pridi Banomyong Soi 14 boasts a huge kitchen visible through glass walls, so customers can watch the action in real time. The menu is the same you know and love—paninis (from B250), croissant sandwiches (from B300), breakfast pizza (B300), berliners (from B70), croissants (from B100)—but this location has a sizable parking lot, making it a lot easier to visit on weekends.

HOT SCOOP

This delivery-only ice cream maker deals in big flavors Bangkok has a new ice cream maker to brighten up your week in Daisy’s Ice Creams. The delivery-only venture sells creamy, decadent flavors that change each week and go far beyond your average vanilla. Think olive oil with shortbread cookies, strawberry with vanilla marshmallows, chocolate chip cookie dough with salted caramel swirls, and cinnamon peach sorbet (B350/pint), all preservative-free. The ice cream is homemade in small batches, so pre-ordering is essential.

You can do that by contacting @daisysicecreams on Line, calling 081-898-8584, or visiting the Facebook and Instagram pages (@daisysicecreams).

food & drink | open door

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Siam’s design-forward cafe wants you to try something new The buzz: After opening rooftop bar Paradise Lost in late-2020, the Siam@Siam hotel has continued its hot streak with the design-forward Chim Chim, where the food is made for sharing and the motto, “never chim never know,” speaks to a desire to feed the imagination.

The vibe: Filled with light streaming through floor-to-ceiling windows, custom-made furniture featuring prints from Jim Thompson House, and Dadaist pops of color—bright shades of blue, yellow, and orange and lush, green plants against a terrazzo floor—Chim Chim aims to be more than just a restaurant. Summarizing its mission in the word chim (try), the loft-style space aims to be a bridge between Siam’s art hubs, encouraging you to experiment with new ideas and flavors.

The walls are hung with rotating local artwork, a massive pull-down screen facilitates screenings, and the second-floor space plays host to workshops. Think coffee cupping sessions led by Roots and tea-pairing classes with Monsoon Teas.

The food: Comfort food gets clever twists across the menu, plus a boost from ingredients sourced from local all-stars like Sloane’s or made inhouse (e.g., the 48-hour-fermented sourdough pizza dough). All-day breakfast favorites include the hefty breakfast burrito (B330), made with free-range scrambled eggs, Sloane’s fennel sausage, American cheddar, jalapenos, avocado, and fresh salsa.

Cafe-appropriate big bites like the Zing Zing Chicken Burger (juicy

fried chicken, tomato, and a tangy slaw on a homemade bun, served with sweet potato fries; B310), the chicken and cranberry sando (sliced chicken breakfast, sour cream and dill mayo, and cranberry sauce on homemade sourdough; B320), and crab and pesto pasta (B460), packed with Chumphon blue swimmer crab, offer equally filling bites for lunch or dinner. Dessert isn’t an afterthought, though. Dishes like the corn millefeuille (puff pastry, salted caramel popcorn, corn foam, corn sorbet, cornflake ice cream; B260) go far beyond your standard sweet treats.

The drinks: Quality coffee is core to Chim Chim’s identity. Choose from two single-origin options (Huay Nam Khun or Pang Khon, both from Chiang Rai) and a seasonal blend, all roasted by Roots. Try your pick in a black or white coffee (from B90) or break the mold with a nitro-charged ginger lemonade (B140) or nitro cold brew (B130).

Soon, you’ll be able to while away the day or kick off your night with craft beer or cocktails designed by Paradise Lost’s Gabriel Lowe, too.

Why we’d come back: They serve generously portioned, weekendappropriate food all week long, and the design, like something you’d find in a Melbourne cafe, is already piquing our creative impulses. Craig Sauers G/F, Siam@Siam Design Hotel, 865 Rama 1 Rd., 02-217-3000. Open daily 7am-9pm.

food & drink | open door food & drink | new and noted

TABLE TALK

Chef Pom Chinese Cuisine By Todd Rama 3 Rd., 02-294-3998. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm This authentic Chinese dining restaurant beckons visitors inside with old-style Chinese murals painted on the outside walls and an interior replete with darks woods and red leather chairs. The food here leans on ancient (they say up to 1,000 years old) cooking techniques but riff a bit on the application for a bit of modern touch.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only for dine-in or takeaway.

Experience Special Chef’s table Get 10% discount on food only or get a complimentary special dish valued THB 1,250++.

For Chef’s table set menu’s price is starting from THB 10,000++ for 5-8 persons.

Special Price for Chef's table At Home Starting from THB 2,500++ /person with the minimum of 10 persons per booking, (price excluded transportation and waiters fee, 7-day advance reservation is required.)

1 Jan – 31 May ’21

Cafe Craft

NEW AND NOTED

A luxury interior design shop opens a homey cafe in its showroom

The CBD’s buzzing bakery opens a small second branch in Ari

Yu Ting Yuan brings classic Cantonese delicacies to the riverside

Chanintr might be best known for its carefully curated interior pieces, but the long-standing brand has something new up its sleeve. With Cafe Craft, the luxury design firm has turned the ground floor of its wood-framed, terrazzo-floored showroom in Thonglor into a hideaway restaurant. The decor highlights pieces from Scandinavian brands like Louis Poulsen, Carl Hansen & Søn, and Fredericia, while the menu is packed with brunch-friendly bites like avocado toast (B290), the signature French toast with caramelized bananas (B270), and drinks like fresh lemonade (B120), single-origin coffee (from B90), and biodynamic wines.

924 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 094-749-9892

Cafe-hoppers tuned into the latest food fad, croissants (see p12), have found buttery nirvana at Kenn’s in Ari. The second branch of the bakery follows the same formula as its Sathorn flagship, serving just coffeeshop drinks and croissants, including some Ari-only options. Queues curl around the corner of the block for a straightforward menu of plain (B65), chocolate (B70), and ham, bacon, and cheese croissants (B155), as well as Ari-only specialties, like “la vie en jaune” (B125), stuffed with passionfruit and mango cream.

Wash those down with a flat white (B75) or iced Thai coffee (B80) as you photograph your score. 1/6 Ari Soi 2

At the long-awaited Four Seasons Bangkok, Yu Ting Yuan is turning heads with impeccable Cantonese cuisine and regional Chinese favorites. Modern Chinese design touches, ornate chandeliers, and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over a reflection pond set the stage for upscale takes on the timeless cuisine. Go for handmade dim sum like lobster and seafood dumplings topped with salmon roe (B250), regional classics like braised eggplant and minced pork in a claypot (B380), or the live seafood selection (Canadian lobster from B360/100g), or try the chef’s tasting menu (B4,600; add B1,980 for wine), featuring suckling pig, abalone fried rice, and more.

Four Seasons Bangkok, 300/1 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-032-0888

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2021

Flaneur

NEW AND NOTED

Samyan welcomes an affordable indie burger shop

This shophouse is bringing Nang Loeng’s past into the present

Soi Pan’s new teacentric cafe is an urban oasis

Located in a ground-floor space shared with a salad bar and Japanese rice bowl vendor, Buns and More brings affordable, gloriously messy burgers to Samyan. Think burgers topped with pesto sauce, melted cheddar, bacon, and rocket (dry-aged beef B280/pork B250), or with Asian-style spicy sauce, American cheese, homemade pickles, bacon, and rocket (dry-aged beef B260/pork B230), all served on brioche buns with a side of fries. Other sides include spicy chicken wings (B110) and onion rings (B70), while the fridge is stocked with sodas and craft beer.

Right now, all beef burgers are on discount, too (beef B199/pork B169).

1505 Rama IV Rd., 081-914-3636

Part shop, part cafe, the very photogenic Nangloeng Shophouse joins the cadre of cool restaurants revitalizing historic Chakkrapatipong Road.

Run by Anupas “Kong” Premanuwat and Elaine Sun (Kangkao, Ku Bar), the shophouse is the kind of Kinfolkbaiting enterprise so many cafes aspire to these days—vintage wood furniture, old magazines for sale, a knob-tailed cat roaming the premises, the original concrete walls stripped bare and distressed. Stop in to purchase products like honey, tea, and wine; refresh yourself with a bitter lemon and tonic (B80) or golden chai latte (B120); or tuck into fresh Pak Klong Talad veggies with eggs (B150) or homemade pork sausage with cabbage (B230). 96/2 Chakkrapatipong Rd., 093-550-5359

In the middle of Sathorn, Flaneur offers a lush, green sanctuary where you least expect it. Boasting an enviable garden and bright, light wooddominated interiors, the tucked away cafe specializes in tea blends (B140 hot or cold) made in-house using an organic tea base from northern Thai hill tribe communities. That base gets mixed with different fruit and flowers. Think black tea with pineapple, prosecco, and summer fruit, and Valrhona chocolate cake with earl grey and bergamotinfused cream cheese (B185). There are loads of beautiful desserts and teas, plus a nutty coffee blend from Woodbrook (from B100) and pu-erh kombucha (B120), too. Pan Rd. (opposite Sethiwan Building), 082-245-9451

TABLE TALK

Stagio Chef’s Table 1/F, Gaysorn Tower, 099-325-2897 (Line: @stagiochefstable).

Open everyday except Tuesday Enjoy this vivid and bold dining experience amid the coziness of Britannica Brasserie on the first floor of Gaysorn. Run by chef Crocetta Fabrizio, who holds years of experience in Michelin-starred kitchens, uses imported Italian and Japanese ingredients to craft special 7- to 12-course tasting menus — think caviar, tuna, prime beef, etc. These are all seasonal menus, so expect rotating flavours that pay respect to the fine ingredients of the day.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Private dinner group with minimum of 10 persons required (from 12 persons) and get Stagio's complimentary dessert valued THB 350 when spending via Citi Credit Cards (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip) 1 Jan - 30 Jun ’21

food & drink | get baked Captain Squid

HOUSE OF SUSAN CROISSANT This cozy, cottage-style cafeslash-pastry powerhouse is all about homemade mini croissants with creative twists.

Best-sellers include the salted egg lava and mushroom cream mini croissants (B40 each), salted egg croissants (B35), and spinach croissants (B32) but those looking for sweet treats should turn to the custard and raspberry version (B159), and wash it down with an iced mocha or dark chocolate (B120).

384/1 Ekkamai Soi 24, 062-293-6464. Open daily 7am-7pm JAMES BOULANGERIE Suburban-based James Boulangerie belongs in the rarefied air of the best croissant makers in the city, and for good reason. This French-style bakery and cafe was—and still is—on everybody’s lips because of its sought-after dark chocolate croissants (B150), train croissants (B95), and hard-tofind Kouign-amann (puff pastry containing layers of butter and sugar, B80), which lure crowds to queue up as early as 8am.

172 Phran NokPhutthamonthon Sai 4 Rd., 064-958-9588. Open Tue-Sun 10am-5pm

In the mood for croissants

JIGGLY PANCAKES, BASQUE BURNT CHEESECAKE, AND NOW… CROISSANTS? THE LATEST FOOD FAD FLOODING THAI SOCIAL FEEDS IS A KIND OF OLD EUROPEAN TRADITION, BUT CROISSANT HYPE IS REAL, FOR WHATEVER REASON. FROM ESTABLISHED INSTITUTIONS TO NEWCOMERS MAKING EVERYTHING FROM PLAIN, OLD PASTRIES TO SALTED EGG LAVA MONSTROSITIES, THESE ARE BANGKOK’S BEST PLACES TO GO FOR CROISSANTS.

By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

Kenn”s Coffee and Croissants

James Boulangerie

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2021

KENN’S COFFEE AND CROISSANTS Tucked inside Sathorn Soi 7 and, now, Ari Soi 2, this coffee shop is an oasis for office workers looking to get their morning fix—freshly made croissants, of course. Try the chocolate croissant (B70) filled with imported French dark chocolate, or the smoked ham and cheese croissant (B105), whose crisp skin complements the salty hint of housemade smoked ham.

To go with the pastries, drinks include iced chocolate (B85) with just the right amount of sweetness and iced Thai coffee (B80).

163/2 Sathorn soi 7, 066-1495451. Open daily 7:30am-3pm CAPTAIN SQUID The cutely named “Captain Squid” may sound similar to a certain Nickelodeon cartoon character, but let’s not get too silly here. Captain Squid makes quality, freshly baked French butter croissants on the daily. Go for the original butter croissant (B50), or a salted egg lava croissant (B79) if you want more umami out of your snack.

For another savory treat, try the classic ham and cheese croissant (B60) or a spinach cheese croissant (B65).

1010/17 Rama 4 Rd., 085-8001555. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am6pm, Sat 8am-5pm

Susan Croissant

Paris Mikki

Maison Eric Kayser

PARIS MIKKI At Paris Mikki, all cakes and pastries are baked daily in limited numbers.

The menu—which rotates depending on seasonal ingredients—is packed with croissants like the Parisian (B85), the St. Honore (B280), and the croissant au chocolat (B90), plus other specialties like the millefeuille (a layering of puff pastry and pastry cream, B190). Call ahead to reserve the sweets as they often sell out (trust us on this one).

1/F Metha Wattana, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 088870-0020. Open daily 10:00am-8:30pm

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Tiengna Viennoiserie

Kokopan

La Patis

Rue De Mansri

Maesalong Croissant

MAISON ERIC KAYSER Known for its signature baguettes and croissants, Eric Kayser boasts more than 110 outlets worldwide, all of which were opened in little over a decade. Step inside this French artisan boulangerie to indulge in a wide variety of pastries, including the signature croissant (B85) and almond croissant (B110). Great non-croissant options, if you dare, include the apple and cinnamon danish (B35) and lemon tart (B120) which is zesty yet sweet.

G/F Emquartier, 087-5196169. Open daily 10am10pm LA PATIS Known for snack boxes and catering, La Patis churns out lots of croissants, too, making them daily using real French butter. Their range includes the aromatic chocolate croissant (B50 small/B75 large), the fruity raspberry croissant (B55 small/B85 large), and the mini matcha (B55).

For something a little more OTT, try the croque croissant (a butter croissant filled with ham, cheese, and white sauce, B135).

G/F Emquatier, 094-4871159. Open daily 10am10pm RUE DE MANSRI This photography studioslash-cafe is known for its vintage vibe and croissants that are widely regarded as among the city’s best.

All pastries are baked daily, and top-sellers include the ham and cheese (B45) and chocolate croissants (B45). Be sure to try their signature iced marocchino (B75), an indulgent mix of chocolate, milk, and espresso.

417 Bamrungmuang Rd., 083-158-9999. Open daily 7am-5:30pm

MAESALONG CROISSANT One of the newcomers to grace the Bangkok croissant scene, Maesalong Croissant operates out of a gorgeously distressed shophouse in Banglamphu.

Specializing in butter croissants (B75) and Kouignamann (B40), this spot draws floods of croissantgoers spilling out the front door each day. Plan ahead, because the queues are ridiculous.

177 Samsen Rd., 092-601-2345. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-8:30pm; Sat 2-5pm TIENGNA VIENNOISERIE Phrom Phong’s latest addition to the croissant crowd is Tiengna. Hailing from Tak, the venue offers flaky, Viennese plain croissants (B85), as well as photogenic, house-specialty concoctions like nutella and banana croissants (B135) dusted with powdered sugar. Grab one of their equally next-level coffee drinks, like a yuzu nitro cold brew (B140) or salted caramel coffee crumble (B130), too.

3-4 Soi Phrom Si (Sukhumvit Soi 39), 061-1749839. Open daily 7:30am-5pm KOKOPAN One croissant on its own sounds plain and basic. But a croissant bouquet? Sign us up! Thanks to Kokopan, you can show that special someone you love them by pre-ordering a croissant bouquet online from Feb 13-15. Each bouquet (B890) boasts eight mini plain croissants arranged like flowers (and no, you can’t substitute them for fancier renditions like chocolate, almond, or nutella).

Orders for croissant bouquets are available only via Kokopan’s official Line account (@kokopan)

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2020

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