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NO. 800 FEB 26, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

Your culinary journey through

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it's free! To the Grave Why the Sathorn community flocks to a cemetery for exercise Goodbye BKKSR A founder of Silom’s indie cinema discusses the future of film High Court This man is documenting Bangkok’s disappearing low-rise apartments Neighborhood Noods The best street food in and around Soi St. Louis

NO. 800 FEBRUARY 26, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

THE SILOMSATHORN ISSUE

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food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

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page 3

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

Who's in charge? BK EDITORIAL

Managing Editor Craig Sauers

one day in...

Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley,

How to spend 24 hours in Silom and Sathorn

Veerabhatr Sriyananda Contributors Megan Leon GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu Account Manager Summer Lee Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Digital Strategist Manasith Linananda

Settle In As expected, 2021 kind of sucks. International travel has been off the table for a while. Since the start of the year, domestic travel has been a no-go, too, at least for the most part (we won’t get into the weeds about whether you should or shouldn’t). We’ve even been denied life’s simple pleasures for a couple of months, like having an entire bottle of wine to ourselves over some light tapas.

Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana

Deep down, we all knew it was coming to this. We were going to be spending more time in Bangkok this year. But crisis breeds opportunity. Or… maybe there’s a better way of putting that. We love this city. We do, we do, we do—warts and all, especially when it comes to civic leadership.

Marketing and Events Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Marketing and Events Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Head of Business Development Chaz Kim Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Manager Sippakorn Prasert, Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Anuwattanawong, Joseph Toh Business Development Executives Kornkanok Sriwaranant, Palita Nueangnit SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri

05 feature

Anyway, one of the benefits of living in a city as diverse and ridiculously huge as Bangkok is there’s always a lot to learn about your neighborhood, and so that’s where we’re turning our focus this year.

How one community found green space in a graveyard

Throughout 2021, BK will be producing 12 neighborhoodthemed issues, bringing you stories that plumb the depths of the communities that give this city its shape, color, and identity. In the process, we hope to share something new with everyone—venues you may have overlooked, one-onones with local heroes you didn’t know about, feature stories that document the current moment, in all its messy glory.

Interns Kanicha Nualkhair Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

ON THE COVER Illustration by Thomthong C

roundup

Silom and Sathorn’s best art galleries

We’ll be sharing round-ups of the places that make each neighborhood special in its own way: street food, cafes, art galleries, boutiques, unhinged nightlife—you name it. We’ll have guides, “best of” lists, interviews. When possible, we’ll be working with local artists to feature their work, too. We’re kicking off the series with twin districts whose boundaries aren’t clearly defined: Silom and Sathorn. With tourism down and property values high, it’s a pivotal moment for the communities, and we heard as much from the business owners, performers, and residents we interviewed.

BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication. Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam Operations Manager Clarissa Cortes

Without tourists—well, there are the golf quarantine groups coming in now, but, like, seriously—Silom’s seedier nightlife zones have been put on life support for the last year-plus. That’s without accounting for the impending rise of mega projects like The Park Silom and Dusit Central Park, which threaten to flatten the few independent spots that remain.

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08 feature

Where to find us! Coconuts BK Limited

111 Room 5A, 5th Floor We Space Building, Soi Thonglor 5 Khlong Tan Neua, Wattana Bangkok, 10110 Tel: 02-041-5755 Email: info@bkmagazine.com

BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited. The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.

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The last days of the Bangkok Screening Room

Meanwhile, small businesses that gave the neighborhood character, like the Bangkok Screening Room, are tapping out before they flatline, leaving many to wonder what comes next for Bangkok’s most expensive real estate. And yet, despite it all, old-school spots across the communtiy are keeping tradition alive. Some are reinventing traditions, too.

street food

the last word

St. Louis’ best eats

Stories from old apartments

We have a lot of hot takes, so read on. Got something to say? Go online and tell us what you think. We’ll be here all year.

One Day In…

Silom and Sathorn

With their swarm of high-rise office towers and shared reputation as a financial and business hub, Silom and Sathorn may seem a little lackluster to the untrained eye. But spend a day here and you’ll be wooed by stylish coffee shops, generations-old hole-inthe-wall restaurants, swanky bars, and a wonderful mix of art galleries, temples, and local gems. Here’s how to spend a perfect day in the twin neighborhoods. Words and photos by Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

(B100 for a butter croissant). For hefty brekkie options, head to Lots Sathon in Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 7 for the honey ham and cheese sandwich (B220) along with a toffee nut latte (B85); Crackhouse at The Commons Saladaeng for the Breakfast Burrito (B240) paired with a hot coffee (B100) courtesy of Roots; or Akart Day on Yen Akart Road for the Super Star All-day Breakfast (B350). For a dose of culture, explore the area’s diverse religious

Dinner

history. You can visit Sri Maha Mariamman Temple on Pan Road before checking out the Mirasuddeen Mosque, one of three mosques in the area, and the St. Louis Catholic Church. Before it gets too hot, hit up King Power Mahanakhon Skywalk for a 360-degree view of Bangkok’s skyline (B530 for an adult ticket) or retreat to the Nielson Hays Library for coffee and good reads in a century-old, neoclassical heritage building.

not short on options, either: indulge in 24-hour cured duck confit at Silom institution Eat Me; grab some Frenchleaning bites at Bardo; munch on wonderfully crisp pizzas at Sathorn’s Il Bolognese; splash out on a mind-bending German tasting menu at Suhring; or try the crispy soft shell crab, served with a sideshow of Greek plate-smashing, at Aesop’s. And, of course, there’s the Japanese food. Popular izakayas like Teppen and Katsu Shin cater to more than just the Japanese expat community with scrumptious karaage (deep-fried chicken), charcoal barbecue, and raw fish dishes with sake, highballs, and mugs of draft Asahi.

Lunch

Morning Morning for many starts with a run in Lumphini Park or a gym session at Base in the Sathorn Thani building. That means Silom-Sathorn has more than enough breakfast options to satisfy fitness freaks and sleepy-eyed workers alike. Walking down BTS Chong Nonsi, the smell of freshbaked brioche oozing from Brioche From Heaven will make your mouth water. Head there early to grab a slice of peanut butter brioche (B120) paired with a classic vanilla shake (B120) before the Instagrammers arrive. Croissant enthusiasts can make a beeline for Kenn’s in Sathorn Soi 7 (B65 for a plain), Kokopan in Silom Soi 2/1 (B60 for three pieces of nutella), or Holey Bakery in Soi Suanphlu

These neighborhoods have it all when it comes to street eats and restaurants. If you’re all about Japanese food, Mokkori Silom offers some of the tastiest bowls of oyster ramen in town (B239). Convent Road is home to Khao Man Gai Nai Noi, known for its delightfully comforting chicken rice (B50), as well as the Michelin Bib Gourmand-recognized Yentafo Convent. For awesome Indian and Middle Eastern-influenced cuisines, don’t miss the lusciously rich massaman (B5070) from long-standing Krua Aroi Aroi or tasty panjavarna uthappam (“Indian pizza” with chutney, B140) at Chennai Kitchen on Pan Road. Soi St. Louis, meanwhile, is known for its abundance of street food. Try the succulent braised pork on rice (B50-70) from old-school Khao Ka Moo Jorsor 100; the fragrant chicken biryani (B40) from Khao Mok Gai Od Ton; or the egg noodles with juicy shrimp wontons and barbecued crispy pork (B45) at Hea Ngou Ba Mee Giew Koong. If you want something heartier, if a little guilt-inducing, Brassica over in Nanglinchee doles out juicy fried chicken (from B260) and donuts (B75).

Afternoon If you have room for snacks, generations-old D.K. Bakery on Pan Road makes kaya buns that are so good they still draw huge queues. Guss Damn Good in Saladaeng Soi 1 is the perfect place to beat the heat with a scoop of ice cream before grabbing a Montreal-style bagel (B50 for plain) and coffee at nearby Roastology. Or just head straight to community mall The Commons Saladaeng for more delicious light bites and drinks (adult beverages included). The space also hosts workshops and events, so check out the calendar in advance. If you’re a film photography nerd, make sure to drop by Photo Gallery at Thaniya Plaza or Analox Film Cafe near the Silom-Naradhiwas intersection, where you can pick up old gear or have your film developed by the pros. The area is also home to an eclectic mix of the city’s best art spaces, like Bangkok CityCity Gallery, Sathorn 11 Art Space, Gallery Ver, the Woof Pack Building, and Kathmandu Photo Gallery, all of which specialize in different media and artistic styles.

The neighborhood changes shape at night, when office workers clock out and head to the bars and restaurants to unwind. For flavorful Thai food in vibrant settings, visit Charm Eatery and Bar and Supanniga Eating Room in Sathorn sois 10-12. If you’re after international fare, you’re

Evening Later on, the business district transforms into a hub for bar-hopping, fitness, and even film. After work hours, hundreds of 9-to-5ers flock to Lumphini Park or the eerie Teochew cemetery-slash-park to burn off steam, while others catch cult classics at soon-to-be-closed indie cinema Bangkok Screening Room. Even more, however, head for happy hours at Le Cafe des Stagaires in Sathorn Soi 12 or O’Malley’s Irish Pub near BTS Saladaeng; quality craft beers at Nineteens Up in Silom Soi 19 and Craft Room Sathorn; potent cocktails at upscale bars Vesper, Just a Drink Maybe, Cactus, and Revolucion; or drinks with a view at rooftop bars Vertigo and Moon Bar, Yao Rooftop, Hi-So/Park Society, and Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant. While the lights may be dimming on Patpong and Silom Soi 4’s definitively more risque nightlife, venues like the beloved, LGBTI-friendly Stranger Bar and Pride Bar and Restaurant (formerly Tapas Cafe) are trying to keep the flame alive while tourist numbers are nearly non-existent. For a glimpse into the neighborhood’s past, drop by the Patpong Museum, and find out why nightlife in the community wasn’t always what it seemed.

BK Asks

What are your favorite places to eat, drink, and be merry in the neighborhood?

Jitraphon Suebvattana, Sathorn resident “For breakfast, my go-to is Boon Eak Restaurant for its authentic palo duck and chinese soup; for lunch, Neua Tun Thanam Sathu Pradit serves the best beef noodles and hotpot, with all kinds of beef parts; for dinner, family-friendly Supanniga Eating Room has the best Thai cuisine, while Baan Somtum offers good Isaan food and vibes. To unwind, my favorite places are Nineteens Up for its variety of drinks and live bands, and also Teppen, the best izakaya for beer lovers.”

feature | running with ghosts

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

property values, the cemetery-turned-park has provided a blueprint for mitigating Bangkok’s ceaseless commercial development. While most cemeteries, including many of the Hakka and Hokkien burial sites in Silom, have been moved out of the city to make space for new development— an effort requiring extensive relocation planning, among other logistical hurdles—the Bangkok Protestant Cemetery on Charoenkrung Road has likewise been renovated to provide green space without exhuming the dead. Today, the Teochew Cemetery welcomes around 1,000 visitors a day, many of them regulars: runners like Heng who jog beneath the banyan trees and between the graves, weightlifters who use the open-air gym (only B100/ month), kids who come for taekwondo lessons, basketball games, or skateboarding sessions, even elderly groups who drop in to sing karaoke classics like John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads” and Chinese love songs. “I feel weird if I don’t come here and see my friends each day,” says Ead, a Soi St. Louis resident who sells drinks and snacks near the park entrance between rounds of laps.

Cemetery of Splendor I

n the Sathorn back-sois, a cemetery-turned-park offers a safe space for local residents—and their deceased counterparts—to go about their business. It might also provide a blueprint for urban planning in the future.

By Craig Sauers, Veerabhatr Sriyananda, and Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Even after 20 years of tracing the same small loop, Sirameth “Heng” Piromtharaphong admits he still gets frightened when he goes running in the park. But he doesn’t run in your average green space. “Once, I was running here [in the park] at around 4am. I was all by myself, but it felt as if someone was running right beside me,” he says, sweeping his arms in an arc and looking out at the rows of Thai-Chinese graves he weaves between for exercise. “It can get a little scary.” Heng is one of hundreds of Sathorn residents who routinely flock to the Teochew Cemetery, located between Charoen Rat and Chan Roads, for exercise, socializing, or a brief respite in green space within an otherwise densely packed urban district. The cemetery hasn’t always been such a pleasant gathering ground, though. Founded in 1899 to provide a final resting place for Teochew migrants whose remains couldn’t be returned to their motherland, the cemetery is, in fact, three separate graveyards crammed in one. The space is administered by the Teochew Association, the Poh Teck Tung Foundation, and the Hainan Dan Family Association. It contains tens of thousands of human remains, including many that were buried without family members to care for their graves, owing to the Poh Teck Tung Foundation’s role in collecting the dead after events like car accidents (the group is occasionally referred to as Bangkok’s “body snatchers”).

“I’ve been coming to this park for over 20 years. As long as you’re respectful, you’ll never see anything unusual,” she adds, alluding to the ghosts that some believe still roam the grounds. The space isn’t just for Thai-Chinese foundation members. It also serves the neighborhood’s diverse communities— around the corner from the park lie the Vishnu temple, a sacred site for Sikh groups, and the old, wooden Jawa mosque, built by Javanese migrants over 100 years ago and frequented by their descendants today. “This park is for everyone,” says Heng. He notes that, on the day we visit, the cemetery gates have been opened up so that members of the Sikh community can safely park their cars. As it happens, there’s a cremation underway at the Vishnu temple, which explains the strange smell hanging in the air—not a regular occurrence, we’re assured. Heng even points out that, as the park has developed, and as more and more people have begun to exercise in its leafy confines, there have been fewer reports of ghosts. Yet despite its better qualities, the park hasn’t proven popular with everyone. “I tried to bring my mother here to exercise, but she wasn’t having any of it,” he says. For many Sathorn residents, however, the cemetery’s transformation hasn’t just broken a long-held taboo—the benefits of regular exercise might be helping them escape an early grave. “Running here five days a week has been good for my health,” says Heng. “Honestly, I’m more scared of hospitals than ghosts.”

Under the rule of Field Marshal Sarit Thanarat in the late 1950s and early 1960s, the cemetery was used as an execution site. Later, it became a common spot for suicides. tk

All the above had bestowed the graveyard with an unfavorable reputation among Sathorn residents, many of whom reported ghost sightings. “When I was young, this place was so haunted that not even red songthaew or taxis would dare come here,” explains Heng. “Sometimes, taxi drivers who were dropping off passengers would turn around to find out that there was no one in the car,” he says, sharing a popular legend. In 1996, however, the previously fenced-off graveyard was given new life. After consulting with spiritual leaders and Thai-Chinese foundation members, the Sathorn district office transformed the space into a park, offering a green lung for locals who live further away from the more crowded Lumphini Park.

In this rapidly gentrifying district, where even the living have a hard time finding a home because of soaring

Sirameth “Heng” Piromtharaphong and friends

Art | best art galleries to visit

Art District Silom and Sathorn have quietly developed into a hub for the city’s contemporary and independent art scene, with galleries large and small representing a wide range of styles, media, and ideas. Here are 10 great galleries to visit in the neighborhood. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Gallery Ver

La Lanta

Gallery Ver

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

Cartel Artspace

Sathorn 11 Art Space

The single-room space owned by contemporary artist Mit Jai-Inn sits alongside Gallery Ver—they even share a roof—and is a close neighbor to several other artist-led initiatives. Don’t let the size of this gallery fool you. It’s an art nook, but a formidable one. It showcases boundarypushing contemporary pieces and design works with a sociopolitical bent. It has previously hosted work by top young artists, including most recently Yingyod Yenarkarn’s “If you’re sad, I’m sad. If you’re happy, I’m happy.” Narathiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 22. Open Wed-Sun 2-6pm

Artist+Run Venture down to the hinterlands of Naradhiwas Road and you’ll come to N22, a budding creative space with art galleries and artist studios. It’s also home to Artist+Run— curated by Angkrit Ajchariyasophon, founder of Chiang Rai’s Angkrit Gallery. Since opening in 2016, the space has featured sculptures and abstract paintings from big local names like Thaiwijit Puengkasemsomboon, Pachara Piyasongsoot, Yuth Suripong, and more. Current exhibition:“Light Beings” by Kade Javanalikhikara (through Mar 20) 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 22, 099454-5955. Open daily 1-6pm

Artist+Run

This contemporary art gallery comes in the form of a large warehouse with high ceilings perfect for welcoming large-scale artworks. The gallery area is designed by artist Rirkrit Tiravanija, while the art studio is the brainchild of Takerng Pattanopas. Gallery Ver dedicates itself to exhibiting conceptual art by using the space to accommodate the needs of each project in whatever way possible. That makes it one of the best places to catch experimental art in Bangkok. Current exhibition: “Interbeing” by Disorn Duangdao (through Mar 28) 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 22, 02103-4067. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm

Bangkok CityCity Gallery Opened in late 2015, this massive, purpose-built white cube right by Lumphini Park facilitates all forms of art— whether it’s paintings, sculptures, video installation, or live performances. Its opening exhibition by celebrated local cartoonist Wisut Ponnimit, best known for his creation of cartoon character “Mamuang,” was an instant hit. The gallery owner is young and rooted in Bangkok’s art, skateboard, and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes cliquey crowd. Current exhibition: “The Immortals are Quite Busy These Days” by Nawin Nuthong (through Mar 21) 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open Wed-Sat 1-7pm

Translated from the Thai word that means “beauty in abundance,” La Lanta has become one of the city’s leading contemporary art galleries, offering a wide range of work by internationally acclaimed and up-and-coming local artists. The gallery has built a strong presence in international art fairs in major cities, including Singapore, Hong Kong, London, New York, Miami, and Basel. Notable past exhibitions include “The Relative of Differences,” a series of abstract paintings by Thai painter Morakot Ketklao, and “Compassion in Adversity” by renowned painter Jirapat Tatsanasomboon. Current exhibition: “The Man’s Phases” by Attasit Pokpong, Narakorn Sittites, and Uttaporn Nimmalaikaew (through Mar 3) 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 22, 02050-7882. Open Tue-Sat 10am-7pm

Located in the art- and jewelry-focused Silom Galleria shopping center, this contemporary gallery focuses on spiritual and neo-contemporary art by up-and-coming local and internationally established artists. These names include practitioners like Vasan Sitthiket, Sutee Kunavichayanont, and Thaweesak Srithongdee, as well as senior National Artists like Pichai Nirand, Thawee Ratchaneekorn, and Preecha Thaothong. It recently hosted “The Opera of Metafiction,” a solo exhibition of paintings by Thanarit Thipwaree. Silom Galleria, 19 Silom Soi 21, 083-445-8333. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm

Sathorn 11 Art Space Emerging in the unlikely residential locale of Sathorn Soi 11, the quaint gallery is a two-story space that provides an outlet for the work of aspiring local and international artists. The gallery highlights varied styles and boasts a residency program, gallery internships, and charity events. The gallery also houses a bar and bistro dubbed Art Wine Dine, where you can expect to be treated to farm-to-table Thai and Western dishes, plus cocktails, and it’s the home base of the city’s beloved Gallery Pizza. It most recently hosted a group exhibition titled “This Is Thailand.” 404 Sathorn Soi 11, 02-004-1199. Open Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight

Tentacles

“The Man’s Phases”

Kathmandu Photo Gallery Manit Sriwanichpoom’s now famous gallery sits in a restored pre-war shophouse and includes exhibition space on two floors, a lounge area, and a book store specializing in Hinduism and Shamanism. Open since 2006, it’s still Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery, with a focus on Thai society’s transformation and urbanization. Kathmandu also preserves and rediscovers the works of forgotten masters of Thai photography. The gallery is temporarily closed, but keep your eyes peeled for new work once the latest Covid-19 outbreak abates. 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. Open Tue-Sat 11am-6pm Woof Pack

La Lanta Fine Art

Number1 Gallery

Gallery Ver

Number1 Gallery

Part of the same art-driven warehouse complex as Gallery Ver, artist-led initiative Tentacles offers opportunities for local and international creatives by providing exhibition space and residency programs. They’re also big on hosting creative workshops, from embroidery and painting to pottery and perfume-making, as well as seminars, artist’s talks, and screenings. 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 22, 061941-6555. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm

Woof Pack This mixed-use building, home to offices, restaurants, and the soon-to-close Bangkok Screening Room, also houses a gallery showcasing contemporary art from up-and-coming names on the Thai circuit across the 2nd and 5th floors. Its most recent exhibition, “Insane Instincts,” displayed powerful works by Thai artist Supicha Sutanthavibul that featured stuffed animals hanging from hooks inside butcher shops. 1/3-9 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 089-826-2299. Open daily 10am-midnight.

feature | silom’s cinema bids farewell

When the Curtain Falls Earlier in February, Bangkok film buffs were caught off-guard as news leaked that another of the city’s few remaining standalone cinemas would close. The Bangkok Screening Room, the independent cinema set in Silom’s Woof Pack building, followed Scala, the Art Deco standalonine that served the Siam area for decades, in closing down for good, while the owners of Cinema Oasis in Phrom Phong announced their theater would stay shut indefinitely during the pandemic.

my membership even when I wasn’t in the country,” commented Camilla Davidsson on a post about the news on BK’s Instagram. “I really hope [they] will come back, perhaps somewhere else in Bangkok.”

For many film buffs, as well as Silom and Sathorn residents, the Bangkok Screening Room shutting its doors was an unsettling sign—as much for the loss of an alternative community space as it was for the future of Bangkok’s shrinking indie film scene.

The biggest draw, however, was its program of art house, foreign, and independent films that the city’s blockbuster-obsessed megaplexes don’t screen.

“I’m so sad to hear this! I have supported them since the beginning and paid

As one of the city’s last hubs for indie flicks and film geeks readies to shut for good, we sat down with one of its founders to find out what went down, look back at their greatest moments, and discuss whether there’s hope for the future of independent cinemas in Thailand. Words and photos by Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

The membership Davidsson referred to was one of the cinema’s unique perks. The annual deal gave customers discounts on tickets, food, and drinks, as well as early booking access and free passes.

Since opening in 2016, the theater had screened everything from classics like Peter Brook’s “Lord of the Flies” and

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

the alcohol restrictions were going to be lifted, or whether there was going to be any assistance [from the government] for small businesses like ours.” Mew explains the team wasn’t prepared for such a long period of inactivity. “We’ve exhausted all our options and resources. The lack of government funding and support programs has slowly killed us, and there’s no guarantee when it comes to vaccines or the return of tourism,” she says. “It was best to call it a day now rather than go into bankruptcy later on.” Despite it all, Mew still believes cinemas like hers can make it in Bangkok.

Hollywood cult favorites like David Fincher’s “Fight Club” to modern Thai classics like “The Story of Nampu” and documentaries on Vivienne Westwood and internet meme Pepe the Frog. Sarinya “Mew” Manamuti, one of the three cofounders of the Bangkok Screening Room, recalls that the most popular film over the past four-plus years was, oddly enough, “Ants on the Shrimp,” a documentary about chef Rene Redzepi of Noma.

space itself, an intimate 50-seat room on the second floor of Silom’s art-focused Woof Pack Building, and then there were the specially curated food and drinks— from craft beer and wine to truffle-dusted popcorn.

“When we first opened, we screened everything from fashion documentaries to classic films, [but] we didn’t know this one was going to be such a hit,” she admits. “The tickets were sold out for almost every showing. Food is clearly something that a lot of people are interested in.”

As cinemas across Thailand were forced to close in March and April last year, the Bangkok Screening Room began offering voucher packs to drive sales. But the losses mounted as social distancing restrictions and two separate bans on the sale of alcohol took their toll on sales.

Yet the appeal of the cinema went beyond its entertainment. There was the

“We’re also a bar, so it’s tough,” she says. “There was no sign as to when

These special selling points were off the table for much of 2020, however, as Covid-19 upended the Bangkok Screening Room’s otherwise steady business.

“First of all, it takes funding,” she says. “For example, The Projector in Singapore got support right away, as soon as the city announced the lockdown. In Australia, you can just go to the local council and apply for grants. The support is always there. But here, we got zero support from government programs. I feel that the system needs to change, like having a new government that supports the arts.” That means financial support that isn’t just earmarked for times of crisis. “It comes full circle. Film students need support after they graduate. We need to have more independent cinemas as platforms for young filmmakers to have careers, too. It’s pretty daunting to think that the film industry in Thailand is not appreciated and there’s no support,” she says. “Funding would definitely change everything.” While the future of independent cinemas in Thailand might look bleak from the outside, Mew still feels hopeful. “Going

to the cinema is an experience, and people are still interested in [indie] films. Netflix, for example, is offering more than just blockbuster movies now, which has significantly opened doors to the indie movie business,” she says. “Although the physicality of the space depends on the economy, as long as there is still interest among people to keep indie films going, [standalone cinemas] will never die. I’m optimistic.” Out of a nearly five-year run, Mew can clearly remember her favorite moments with the Bangkok Screening Room. “We were proud to be able to bring the LGBT community together and to celebrate International Women’s Day through our annual LGBT Film Festivals and Fem Film Festivals. A lot of LGBT films and female directors have been looked over in Thailand. At least we were creating conversations about important issues.” While the future might remain uncertain for the industry, fans still have one more month to visit before the curtain falls for the final time. The Bangkok Screening Room will stay open through March 31, when Mew hopes they can have a last farewell for their fans. “If not events, then we might have little souvenirs or tokens,” she says, something the cinema can give back to a community that has given it so much since 2016.

feature | patpong without punters

I Love Muang Thai, I Like Patpong The pandemic has devastated Bangkok’s nightlife industry. Arguably, few if any places in the city have suffered as much as Patpong. With street life silent and numerous bars closing for good, some of which are as old as modern Bangkok’s history, we dropped in to survey the scene. Images and story by Veerabhatr Sriyananda

atpong has the feeling of a ghost town. Instead of the neon-lit, scantily-clad, and shoulder-to-shoulder vibrancy you would expect from one of the world’s most notorious red light districts, Patpong is now bereft of the subwoofer booms and the in-yourface entertainment that would excite first-timers. It’s bereft of any sort of entertainment, for that matter.

Bars that attracted everyone from fresh-faced backpackers to roundbellied retirees for more than 40 years are now shuttered. Even the owners of the Patpong Night Market, which had been making over B8 million a week from stalls selling Gucci and Louis Vuitton counterfeits, faux silver goods, and other tourist trinkets, had to return their lease last month.

Patpong is a shadow of its former self, not unlike an ’80s rock band struggling to reclaim its former glory and wondering where the party went.

which has now moved to Phloen Chit), its first pizzeria (the 50-year-old Madrid)—even Southeast Asia’s first go-go bar, Grand Prix.

“Naturally, the bars are the first places to close and the last to be re-opened, so it’s been tough for them,” says Abhiradee Jantanangkool, manager of the Patpong Museum.

There’s also a strong French presence in Patpong. Venues like the 25-yearold Le Bouchon, one of Bangkok’s first French restaurants, pays testament to that.

Patpong was home to many firsts. Bangkok’s first 7-Eleven, its first Japanese restaurant (Mizu Restaurant,

The day we visit, we run into Mathieu, a Frenchman and ten-year resident of Patpong, who works for the Patpong

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

Museum. We met by chance, and he serves as our friendly local expert for the day. “My wife is Thai, and I’ve been living in Thailand for 14 years, so I know a thing or two about this place, maybe just as much as the guy who sells ice just around the corner,” he says with enthusiasm. Too bad we didn’t see the ice vendor anywhere. Mathieu points out the Old Other Office. “It was one of the first bars in Patpong, along with the Pink Panther,

which is French-owned. It used to have live sex shows, until the police started arresting people, of course,” he says with no hint of irony. He adds they’re also known for selling marijuana. “It’s going to open at around 4:30pm, so if you’re brave enough, you might get lucky,” he says. Covid-19 is not over. That is painfully obvious as you navigate the formerly lively rows of bars and clubs. Bar staff sit around with little to do and few prospects of finding work elsewhere. “Patpong still has a bad image among older generations in Thailand. We need the new generation to bring about change,” says Abhiradee. “Personally, I’d like to turn [this road] into a flea market during the day, with buskers, food, and artists selling their pieces. I’ve already brought in art coaches to teach sex workers how to draw on t-shirts that they can sell.” Patpong may never be like it was during its heyday. The place still elicits divided opinions—often very strong ones at that—but Patpong is more than your regular Sin City. Once home to thriving businesses like Shell, Caltex, and Air France, it was one of

Bangkok’s premier business districts decades ago. As you can discover at the Patpong Museum, it was also central to the CIA’s efforts in Southeast Asia before it became the red-light district most know it as today. Over the past half century, Patpong has led many lives. But no matter which trade gave the street its prominence, will it ever again be as important of a hub as it once was? Its future seems to mirror all of Thailand’s at the moment.

food & drink | seek out these street eats Yoo Nguan The family behind Yoo Nguan has been making their own fish balls on the daily for over 60 years. That gives their bouncy fish ball noodles (B50), sweet-savory yentafo (B50), and guay tiew tom yum (B50) an edge over many Sino-Thai noodle experiences in the city. 314 Chan 18/7 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open daily 9am10pm, closed every last Wednesday of the month. 081-933-2632

Noppharat Beef Noodles Noppharat is a legend around this area for their freshlymade beef balls. A bowl of beef ball noodles here will only cost you B50 per bowl—part of the reason it gets slammed at lunchtime. 157 Chan 18/7 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open Thurs-Tue 9am-4:30pm, 093-427-9768

Salapao Shanghai

Soi St. Louis’ Best Bites

eing predominantly a Thai-Chinese area, Soi St. Louis’ street food naturally leans that way, too. From Teochew-style braised goose, khao moo daeng, and fish ball noodles to desserts like lod chong Singapore, you can get all the greatest hits from Yaowarat without having to make the hectic, sweat-filled trip across town. Here are some of the best street food finds in Soi St. Louis. By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

Boon Eak Restaurant Stationed at Soi St. Louis 3 for over three decades, Boon Eak is known for their juicy and succulent Teochew-style braised goose (B120 small, B200 medium, B340 large) and braised duck (B100 small, B150 medium, B240 large). Locals also flock over for other classic Thai-Chinese soups (B30-40) and moo krob (B80) 67 Chan 18/7 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open daily 8am-5pm. 083-078-0291

Si Morakot Si Morakot is the definition of a hole-in-thewall institution. The 70-year-old shop’s spot at Soi St. Louis sells their legendary khao moo daeng (rice with barbecued, slow-roasted three times). A plate of extra-large khao moo daeng topped with soft boiled duck egg will set you back B120, and a plate of khao moo daeng with crispy pork belly will cost just B50. 33 Chan 18/7 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open daily 10am-5:30pm. 085-503-3333

The soft, doughy all-day treats here are stuffed with seven toothsome fillings: moo sab, moo daeng, mixed vegetables, black bean, yellow bean, taro, and cream (B15/piece). You can also grab some classic raisin and pumpkin mantou (B15), too. 308 Chan 18/7 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open Mon-Fri 11am-5pm. 097-187-8444

Odeng St. Louis Soi 3 Although it’s delivery-only, Thai-style barbecue and sukiyaki joint Odeng St. Louis Soi 3 has become uber-popular for its fresh meat, vegetables, and soup. You can choose from a variety of sizes, depending on the party you’re feeding: S (B300), M (B350), L (B400), and XL (B500). Open for delivery daily from 11am-8pm. 086-8393999

Hia Wan Fish Porridge Locals love late-night specialist Hia Wan for their classic fish porridge (B120), mixed seafood porridge (B120), spicy salmon salad (B100), and ba teng (Thai-Chinese style pork boiled with soy sauce, B60). 2 Chan Rd. Open daily 4:30-11:30pm. 02-211-0829

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

Goong Ob Woonsen 59 Baht The name of this place gives it away: this is one of few places selling goong ob woonsen (casseroled shrimp with vermicelli) for such an absurdly low price (B59). Top options like the goong talay ob woonsen (casseroled saltwater shrimp with vermicelli, B120) and stir-fried squid curry (B120) go for a little more, though. Chan 18/7 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open daily 4-10pm. 085-152-7544

Khao Kha Moo Trok Gai Bang Rak Salapao Shanghai

You can never go wrong with a plate of khao kha moo, and the classic mixed kha moo (pork leg meat, pork skin, and soft boiled egg, B50), with rice (B10) and seaweed soup (B20), at this humble spot has just the right level of sweetness, spice, and fattiness.

Yoo Nguan

Chan 18/7 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open daily 8am-4pm. 089-114-9654

Liverpool Food Locals instantly recognize this place for the extensive collection of Liverpool F.C. memorabilia inside. But there’s more than just a mini football museum here. Try the stir-fried crab meat with chili and garlic (B300), shrimp omelette (B170), and stir-fried shrimp with garlic (B150).

Moo daed dieaw drying on the sidewalk

2044/6 Chan 23 Rd. Open daily 11am-10pm. 083111-1771

Lod Chong Singapore

Lod Chong Singapore Halal Saint Louis 3 The lod chong Singapore at this stall is widely known, as made clear by all the media brands plastered on the sign above the stall. For more than stringy sweet noodles, try the bua loi maphraow on (B30), a classic dessert of warm rice balls with young coconut milk. Chan 18/7 Soi 22 Rd. (Soi St. Louis 3). Open daily 12-5pm. 093-328-8655

Boon Eak Restaurant

Yoo Nguan’s fishballs

6 essential silom-sathorn cafes

Not Just Another Cup

TABLE TALK

Sushi Misaki Nobu

NEW AND NOTED

M/F, Bandara Suites Silom, Sala Daeng Soi 1, 062-495-2386. Open Tue-Sun 12-10pm.

Not Just Another Cup

Toby’s Saladaeng

Pimp My Salad

This neighborhood coffee shop is the go-to weekend hub for the Sathorn Sois 10-12 community and has proudly been serving them smoked salmon eggs Benny (B320), chicken and avocado paninis (B290), and smoothie bowls since 2016. It’s one of few venues in the city that opens at cafe-appropriate hours (7am-7pm). If you go early, you might score one of the coveted spots on the front porch. At worst, you can hide yourself away on the second floor and forget about the scores of brunch-seekers downstairs who keep this space enduringly popular. 5/1, Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3464

Aussie cafe culture has arguably run its course in Bangkok—for years, every barista in Bangkok must have trained in Melbourne or Sydney—but don’t tell that to Toby’s. The latest branch of the Aussie cafe boasts the same focus on really high-quality food with bold flavors and great coffee as its predecessor in Thonglor. Think eggs Mikado (smoked salmon eggs Benedict with salmon roe, B320) and the Banner’s Bowl (B320) with seasonal veggies, labneh, avocado salsa, and sourdough bread—both great foils for a flat white (B100). The Cotton Hotel Saladaeng,14/1 Sathorn Soi 2, 02-121-4954

From the team behind beloved Singapore brunch import Sarnies, this salad bar’s mission is simple: to prove that healthy doesn’t have to be boring. Choose from hearty bowls like the Cool Gai (B225), packed with coconut chicken, chickpea larb, sauteed mushrooms, and jim jaew mayo, or build your own breakfast with items like grilled seeded rye sourdough (B35), smashed avocado (B105), smoked bacon (B90), and more. There are tons of veggies options, too. Wash it down with signature coffees from Sarnies, like the iced coconut long black (B135), or fresh juice (B135). 56 Soi 8 (Sathorn), 02-550-7623

Sushi Misaki Nobu sees Masahiro Misaki team up with Nobuhiro Nagasaki, with whom he previously worked at Ginza’s acclaimed Sushi Tokami. There’s little in the way of signage—still, you’d do well to book ahead for a spot at the sleek 10-seat blond-wood counter. For B4,000 or B6,000, you get 18-20 dishes highlighting Edo-style (traditional Tokyo) sushi, premium delicacies like otoro (fatty tuna), sea urchin and salmon roe, and flavor-packed rice that’s been seasoned with red vinegar and sake.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get a complimentary drink valued THB 300 when spending via Citi Credit Cards (limit 1 glass /card /table /sales slip) 1 Jan ’21 – 28 Feb ’22

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip 1 Jan – 30 Jun ’21

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

Roots Sathorn

Holey Kitchen

Pimp My Salad

NEW AND NOTED

Holey Bakery Suan Phlu

Roots (Sathorn)

Luka Bangkok

Founder Alam Porag’s fanatical approach to baking manifests across an impressive range of sandwiches—Cubanos (B350), ham and cheese croissants with bacon and jalapenos for good measure (B350), and, yes, a B400 avocado sandwich, which is oddly worth the price for avocados. Locals also swarm here for the fresh-baked sourdough, as well as more-affordable pastry treats, from fruit-filled muffins to cheesecakes and chicken turnovers. There’s even a selection of quiche and pizzas if you need something more. 39/17 Soi Suan Phlu, 02-286-1549

One of Bangkok’s pioneers of craft coffee brings fruity and bold northern Thai beans to Bhiraj Tower’s groundfloor space. At this branch of Roots by BTS Surasak, coffee snobs can get their fill of cold brews (from B100) and coffee shakes (B180) in a light-filled, industrial space. Here, the ethos isn’t just farm-to-cup but also cup-to-farm— every bean comes with a story about its farmer, and money from every cup goes back to the farmer, too. Grab some light bites or head next door to Ocken for a proper brunch feast. Roots has another nearby branch in The Commons Saladaeng, too. G/F, Bhiraj Tower, 33, 31 Sathorn Rd., 082-091-6175

One of the first wave of excellent cafes to open in the mid-2010s, Luka is still Soi Pan’s preferred sanctuary for big brunches (try the loaded breakfast burrito, B330) and all-day dining (Gangnam chicken and waffles with gochujang ketchup, B270; Basque burnt parmesan cheesecake with candied citrus, B125/slice). From the eclectic rustic-industrial decor to the menu of down-to-earth comfort food (with nods to local producers and seasonality), light and bright Luka keeps elevating Sathorn’s profile when it comes to cafe culture. 64/3 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558

TABLE TALK

Thai Niyom Cuisine Mahatun Plaza, 888/28-29 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-044-1010. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm. Though this Bib Gourmand-winning restaurant specializes in dishes from all the kingdom’s regions, we love it for one simple reason: its incredible sai oua (Chiang Mai sausage). The owners follow their own recipe, ensuring a juicy and unique flavor. A glistening gold and red sign welcomes you into the two-level space, where you’ll also find pork ribs in Isaan tom saep (spicy soup), Chiang Mai deep fried pork belly, southern classics and more.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,500 or more /sales slip 1 Feb – 31 Dec ’21

the last word | archiving old apartments

Holding W Court

here does your fascination with old, lowrise apartments come from? Me trying to find a place in Bangkok I’d be happy to rent. I had been living, quite comfortably, in a modern, mid-rise Sansiri place in Ekkamai. I gradually became determined to find something that offered more than comfort. I had visited friends in several buildings from this era, and actually spoke to real estate agents trying to describe to them that this is what I was looking for. That didn’t go well.

ith his @bangkokcourts Instagram account, longtime Sathorn resident, and former BK editor, Oliver Irvine has set out, rangefinder in hand, to document Bangkok’s ever-dwindling number of mid-century, low-rise apartment buildings. He might be the perfect man for the task. Here, he talks about his affinity for tropical modernist apartment buildings, the people who reside in them, and what the city loses if they’re all razed for development.

The film you use gives these places a stuck-in-time aesthetic. Were you trying to represent Bangkok courts in all their faded glory? Was that intentional? In their faded glory, yes—the well-worn terrazzo floors, the almost-luminescent pool water, the ham-fisted plumbing that seems to be a hallmark of every unit. But there’s no trickery going on to try and make the photos look in any way vintage. My choice of film is because I like that glossy effect it somehow gives, even when scanned, but I intend for my photos to be sharp and colors to be crisp and accurate to real life. Where are the majority of these places anyway? Four areas have a high concentration of residential buildings that fit the “court” mold. You’ll find many around Dusit Palace and that area. These were built because of the SEATO treaty, for American soldiers. Those headquarters then became the UN. Lumphini Park unsurprisingly has a few courts scattered in walking proximity, and Ari, as a wealthy suburb, also has a great deal of this kind of architecture. The last area I’d point to is Sukhumvit Soi 26 and those winding backstreets, but I can’t provide a reason why.

Who is living in these buildings? From your account, they seem to be magnets for creative types. Every apartment building has a broad range of characters, but there’s no denying that certain courts will gather their own communities. I might get some shit for typecasting here, but Pichai Court in the Dusit area, for example, is a hub of designers, artists. Half the units in Pitak Court seem to find themselves passed between the hands of expat journalists, while Thonglor’s TY Court holds a reputation among wealthy party kids. I actually consider it a failure of my account right now that there are too many “creative types.” It’s not representative. My goal at the moment is to interview more of the owners of these properties, as they are invariably still owned and operated by the families who built them. The story of Samsen Court and its current owner, Dr. Maiyadhaj, is a great example of this. You’ll find it in the early photos on my account. What have you learned about design, or the way people lived in Bangkok before the urban area expanded? I think it’s important to note that for the most part these courts were not built as affordable, mass accommodation, so I don’t like to draw unfavorable, nostalgic comparisons with affordable condos being built now. These courts were expensive. Developers are still building spacious apartments using quality materials with well-off, expat communities in mind. Architecturally, apartments from this generation give so much more breathing space. They’re generally very open plan, without two bedrooms and a living room shoe-horned into 50 square meters. Often they can stretch the width of the building, too, meaning you get balconies at either end of the living space and therefore through-draft. Favorite court so far? Kannikar Court is just incredibly beautiful. The founder of Thammasat’s architecture faculty dubbed it Bangkok’s first modern apartment complex. The rear of the building facing Sathorn Road has these screens that create stunning shadow. The units are no less special. Not big, actually quite intimate in scale, but very simple and functional. The balconies, on the other hand, are huge, so it’s an apartment that can genuinely provide outdoor living. What does Bangkok lose if or when all these old apartment buildings are gone? It loses Bangkok’s equivalent of London’s red brick terraces or New York’s Brownstones. They’re part of the city’s residential narrative and should be preserved for that reason alone. But they’re also wonderful places to live that generally harbor quite a lot of green space, so you’re also losing a part of the city’s green footprint.

Sunshine Court

What’s life like in your court? When the hot water’s running, the sink’s draining, and the ceiling tiles aren’t stripping themselves from the beams, it’s splendid. Craig Sauers

Sunshine Court

Kannikar Court