BK Magazine 803 by BK Magazine

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NO. 803 APR 9, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

it's free! Paralysis by Analysis Taiki Sakpisit talks about his mysterious new movie Contento Marketing Maitri Chit’s Parisian-style bistro is a rustic escape Splash Down Songkran events going down despite the water party ban Taking the Bar New Bangkok bars to visit now that nightlife is back again

#StandWithMyanmar

NO. 803 APRIL 9, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

HUNGRY FOR CHANGE

These far-flung adventures are worth the trip

Home HOW BOLD ENTREPRENEURS for the ARE USING FOOD TO EMPOWER ATHolidays RISK COMMUNITIES

How to make the most of your festive season stuck in Bangkok

page 3 Who's in charge? BK EDITORIAL Managing Editor Craig Sauers Senior Writers Veerabhatr Sriyananda, Alisha Pawa Contributors Megan Leon, Kaan Suchanin, Chayanit Itthipongmaetee, Thitima Sukontaros, Eugenia Clara GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu Account Manager Summer Lee

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

Madlibs!

05 what’s on

Songkran without the supersoakers

This Songkran will be a ________ (noun) unlike any other. While splashing is not allowed, ________ (highly suggestive verbal noun) sure is. We bet you can’t wait to visit ________ (gentrified neighborhood) to celebrate the holiday the ________ (serious adjective) way. The area is filled with ________ (obscure alcohol) bars and ________ (European ethnicity) restaurants. It will be so much ________ (adjective) when you’re not ________ (euphemistic gerund suggesting sweat).

Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Digital Strategist Manasith Linananda Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Manager Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Anuwattanawong, Joseph Toh, Ain Zulkifni Business Development Executives Palita Nueangnit

cover story

Four road trips you can take now

SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas ON THE COVER Image by Poonsawat Suttama

F&B News

Phuket rum makers turn to Thai gin BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication. Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam Operations Manager Clarissa Cortes coconuts.co Advertise with us advertising@coconuts.co

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BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited. The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.

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Contento brings bistro-chic to Hua Lamphong

BKK’s new bars

Taiki Sakpisit

feature

Although this holiday will be ________ (your preferred interpretation of “different”) in comparison to other years, we can’t wait to see all the photos friends, family, and even people like ________ (minor celebrity-slashTV commercial actor) post to ________ (social media channel that doesn’t involve words or reading). That’s how we’ll be ________ (homonym for a breaded and deep-fried treat, ending in “-ing away”) our hard-earned time off. We’ve heard that ________ (general-slash-politician) will be making a public appearance to (serious verb) about the “seven deadly days.” The last time he ________ (troublesome past tense verb) in public, things did not end well, but we believe this time will be different. He promises that Thailand’s ________ (antonym of virtuous) police force will be taking the matter as ________ (disingenuous adverb) as always. Just a reminder to everyone ________ (euphemistic verbal phrase meaning gtfo) Bangkok: be safe, and don’t drink and drive. We want all our readers to come home and read our next ________ (adjective implying transcendent) editorial after the holiday.

open doors

Where to find us!

For some, this holiday is a fine time to ________ (verb that implies authenticity). For others, Songkran will always be a ________ (slightly depressing noun). For almost everyone, though, it is a textbook opportunity to ________ (verb indicating something you might regret in the morning). That is because Songkran is one of the few occasions each year when everyone in Bangkok forgets about ________ (first-world problem) and ________ (verb involving face-to-face interaction with other humans) again.

the last word

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

Illustration by Eugenia Clara

YOU SAID WHAT?

“When I was young it was named ‘skateboarding’ ! What’s the difference ?” — Twitter user @VisitThailandTR on the surf skating wave taking over Thailand

“Yuck” — Instagram user jnelmes67, responding to a picture of Black King Bar’s squid-ink pizza

“please let me come to Bangkok! i miss u so much” — Facebook user Marvin Chew, commenting on BK’s roundup of weekend events

HOT OR NOT

HOT DOGS

WEALTH

Forget the flavorless weenies the CP Group tries to pass off as hot dogs. Bangkok has some real players in town now. First, there was unfortunately named Dick. Now, there’s House of Hotdogs (see p. 13), promising juicy hot dogs done up New York-style, and Pappy’s, which brings us Chicago-style dogs, sport peppers and all, with a side of lazy innuendo.

Screaming of “we just want your money,” Thai officials announced a new strategy to help the country escape the middle-income trap: get rich foreign folk to come here. The “proactive economic plan” seeks to draw at least one million high-income tourists, specifically Scandinavian retirees, by making it easier for them to buy houses and complete their 90-day reporting.

BIRRIA Every Mexican restaurant in town has jumped on the birria train. (When even Sunrise Tacos is in on the action, you know the trend has run its course.) But most, if not all, are making their birria with beef or pork instead of spiced, stewed goat, aka the legitimate way to make the dish.

AFRICA When the Thai government announced it would relax quarantine measures for travelers coming from most nations, many of sound mind assumed exceptions might include people coming from nations like Brazil, where Covid rages in its many variants, or perhaps the UK, source of another nasty variant. To their chagrin, the list of countries is instead made up of— drumroll, please—only African nations.

hit list | 8 ways to spend songkran

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

Laguna Phuket Pride Week Step aside, Songkran. As part of Laguna Phuket’s Revive 555 festival, Cassia Phuket hosts a four-day pride fest, rallying the local and expat communities around LGBTQ+ rights with a bunch of themed parties, live music, discussions, and the annual pride march. The 221-room Cassia hotel, part of the Banyan Tree group, is offering five-day, four-night packages from B7,186 (includes breakfast for two and free airport transfer) as part of the fest, too. Apr 12-15, Cassia Phuket Hotel, 64 Moo 4 Srisoonthorn Rd., Phuket, fb.com/LagunaPhuketPride

Mustache Takeover: Yacht Party Songkran Festival Bangkok club crew-slash-takeover specialists Mustache roll into Pattaya this Songkran. Head to Pattaya’s Ocean Marina Yacht club on Apr 14 for the holiday-appropriate yacht party some of you might have been waiting for since last year. Two yachts will sail side by side through Pattaya, offering seven hours with an open bar and live DJs. Tickets, including the open bar and after party at Lucifer, range from B2,0002,600. Apr 14, 12-7pm. Ocean Marina Yacht Club, 274/1, Sukhumvit Rd.

Super Songkran 2021 Avani Hua Hin is organizing a comprehensive, three-day Songkran experience full of food, music, and activities by the pool from Apr 12-14. On Apr 12, there’s a sunset seafood barbecue with tunes from DJ Jerome G. A Songkran celebration for the family with water activities, food, and drinks, followed by a grilled seafood banquet with live music, takes place on Apr 13. The three-day fest wraps up on Apr 14 with “Finale Feast,” a seafood barbecue buffet by the beach. Apr 12-14. Avani Hua Hin Resort. 1499 Petchkasem Rd., Cha-am. fb.vhhv@avanihotels.com

Thailand Wonder Wave 2021

Prices vary for all of the above. Apr 9-16. Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel, 257 Charoen Nakhon Rd., Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-476-0022 ext. 1416

Pattaya remains one of Thailand’s key centers for Songkran parties. Continuing their tradition of wan lai (a four-day Songkran, with the extra day of festivities only in Pattaya), the city is playing host to Thailand Wonder Wave 2021. Held at Ramayana Water Park from Apr 15-19, the party promises lots of water fights and music from favorites like Polycat and The Toys to rising stars like Zommarie and Tillybirds. Tickets are available for B999 (early bird, one day) and B2,500 (early bird, five days) on ticketmelon.com. Apr 15-19, Ramayana Water Park, Ban Yen Rd., Jomtien, Chonburi

Out of the Blue If you’re looking to escape Bangkok for a more chilled out Songkran with food and music, then Out of the Blue might be what you’re after. Head to Retro Mountain in Koh Phangan on Apr 13 to enjoy music from some of Thailand’s top DJs, like Mendy Indigo, Myle, Gaius, and Chucheewa, the former frontwoman of indie band Fwends who is now making waves in the electronic music scene. Food will be provided by local restaurants. Tickets are B150. Apr 13, 3pm2am. Retro Mountain Koh Phangan, Ban Tai, Koh Phangan

Wet & Loaded Boat Party

Songkran Ha Hey! Planning to stay in Bangkok? The folks from the Avani Riverside and Anantara Riverside have teamed up for a jam-packed eight-day program from Apr 9-16. The festivities include everything from seafood feasts packed with barbecued lobster, prawns, and seabass to seven-hour splashathons at the hotel pools (including craft cocktails, beer, and DJs) to blow-out brunches and river cruises on the Manohra Supreme. Wrapping everything up on Apr 16 is an all-you-can-eat moo kata with free-flow beer and live music for B699 (two hours with free-flow soft drinks) or B999 (free-flow local beer) at Trader Vic’s at Anantara Riverside.

Pride Cruise and Bangkok Rainbow hop aboard the Bangkok Island boat for a Songkran splash-fest on the Chao Phraya. From 5-10pm on Apr 13, the boat will bring some color to the river’s murky waters, cranking up the energy with live music from DJs Vas and Dee Iris, plus all the action you’ve come to expect from the city’s boat party specialists. Tickets are B900-1,200. Apr 13, meet-up at 4-4:30pm; cruise runs from 5-10pm. Wat Yannawa, opposite Charoenkrung Soi 53. bangkokisland.com

Songkran Staycation at Sofitel So Sathorn’s Sofitel So is offering staycation deals if you’re looking to spend time away from home in Bangkok. From now through Apr 30, you can book a three-night stay in a So Cozy Room with breakfast for two, an all-you-can-eat lunch or dinner for two at Soshi, a dinner buffet for two at Red Oven, an hour-long massage at the So/Spa, and two drinks per person at Hi-So Rooftop Bar for B9,999. Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd. 02-624-0000

cover | road trips to take now

Dreaming of a getaway? Hop in your car, or get a rental, and hit the road. These road trips will take you to the country’s four corners, taking in gorgeous sights and chilled-out villages you can’t easily access without your own wheels. By BK Staff

Fly into Phuket, and then immediately leave Phuket, as you drive north toward Khao Lak. This seaside destination is more than a sanctuary for Scandi tourists. Thanks to the steady growth of surf culture in Thailand, not to mention the Sunova surfboard factory that’s headquartered here, Khao Lak is now a hot spot for surfers. If you want to catch some waves, head to Memories Beach. Or sign up for classes at Salt Surf Club. The social enterprise run by former journalist Matt Blauer is training local children to both surf and work as surf instructors, offering new opportunities for their future. Khao Lak is also a mecca for divers, with the Similan Islands straight out of the coast. There are loads of swank resorts in Khao Lak, but to stay in style, check out Hotel Gahn (from B1,700/night), a design award-nominated, Sino-Thai dream spot. On your way out of town, stop at no-frills Krua Luang Ten for fiery southern food. Then continue northbound to historic Takua Pa, an old tin-mining town that has retained its Sino-Thai shophouses and heritage. Sweep past—or make a side trip to—savannah-like Koh Phra Tong on

scenic Highway 4, tracing the Andaman coast until you reach Ranong. This little nook next to Myanmar is a melting pot of Burmese, Thai, and Chinese culture. The surrounding area is also lush, brimming with hot springs (Raksawarin Hot Springs) and waterfalls like Namtok Ngao. But if you have the time, ferry out to Koh Phayam, where most places still shut off the power during the day and there isn’t much to do other than contemplate the Mergui Archipelago on the horizon. In the right season, surfers chase the swell here; otherwise, the island mostly beckons the free-spirited. Stay at Phayamas (from B1,000/night), where they boast a secluded beach and serve their own home-brewed beer, too. On the mainland, hop on Highway 4139 for scenic views, stopping off at Doi Tapang viewpoint en route to Chumphon. If you feel like venturing out to the provincial edges, check out the coffee-growing Ban Panwal Valley (Thailand’s robusta capital). Otherwise, drive to Hat Sai Ri Sawi for a gorgeous and often vacant stretch of white sand. Quiet Koh Phitak, a small island with a fishing village and not much else, also makes for a pleasant day trip.

The road to Surat is incredibly boring, but cut over to Khao Sok and the landscape changes. The national park boasts a dammed up lake surrounded by limestone cliffs. Spend a night on one of the floating resorts for the full experience. In the morning, shuttle back to Phuket. There are waterfalls, hot springs, and viewpoints along the way, plus Natai Beach and its luxury hotels like Natai Beach Resort if you want one more night of solitude.

Khao Sok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

CAMPING 101

Camping is all the rage these days. Although it becomes much less pleasant in the summer and monsoon seasons, you can still pitch a tent and enjoy the great outdoors much of the year. Start by your Isaan road trip in Ubon Ratchathani (flights from B600 on Thai Vietjet), where you can spend a day or two exploring the city’s slow-life vibes. Once you’re there, rent a car from Hertz, Sixt, and Budget, all of which are available at the airport (from B500/day).

Isaan scenery

From Ubon, head to Khong Chiam, the sleepy village located at the province’s easternmost point. Hire a longtail boat to cruise along the Mekong and see prehistoric animal paintings at Pha Taem Historical Park. Back in the city, visit the National Museum and Wat Thung Sri Muang, which bears influences of Thai, Burmese, and Lao Buddhist architecture. Do as the locals, and head to 99 Guay Jub Rot Saeb and order a bowl of Ubon’s trademark guay jab yuan and a plate of moo yor (B30 each). Looking for some mellow nightlife? Ubon Tap Taste House has 14 taps of imported craft beer and loads of bottles.

NORDISK FAXE 3 PU TENT (B15,000) Made with 40D nylon and polyurethane coating up to 3000mm, this tent fits three people.

After spending the night (the whitewashed, Moroccan-inspired De Lit Hotel, B1,150/night, is a good choice, make your way to Korat. En route, check out the Khmer-influenced Prasat Hin Phanom Rung, set atop an extinct volcano, and the well-preserved Prasat Hin Phimai to see the region’s Khmer ruins. For food, stick with the good stuff: grilled fish (B300-350) and som tam pu plara (B50-60) at Mae Fai Pla Phao.

GREGORY MIWOK 12 V2 HARD CORE BACKPACK (B1,550) Fits all the small essentials in an organized way, so you can spot them easily.

A couple hours north, you’ll find buzzy yet laid-back university town Khon Kaen. Sights like Bueng Kaen Nakhon—and the Ubolratana Dam, if you’re around for the E-san Music Festival—are mandatory, but visit bars like the speakeasy-inspired cocktail bar Gentle, and you’ll discover why the city is a hit among young travelers.

Gentle

Wat Phu Tok

SLEEPING GEAR

The riverside town of Chiang Khan in Loei is also a big hit among young travelers. And old travelers. Really, all travelers, thanks to attractions like its walking street and its mix of local food vendors, quaint cafes, and craft shops. Visit Phu Tok for misty morning Mekong views, while guesthouse and handicraft shop Husband & Wife Cafe, riverside bar-restaurant Jer Loei, and craft beer bar Jo Beer are popular indie spots to check out throughout the day. There are dozens of places to stay; The River House Chiangkhan Hotel (B2,490) is a good boutique option. Spin up to Nong Khai. There’s more than just views across the river to Laos here. It’s worth it to spend two days exploring attractions like the surreal Buddhist sculpture park Sala Kaew Ku; the strangely-eroded sandstone formations of Ban Phu; and restaurants like Daeng Naem Neuang, which serves on-point Vietnamese dishes. The international crowd, insofar as Nong Khai has one, gravitates toward the lovely Mut Mee Guesthouse (from B400/night), but there are a few three-star hotels away from the river, too. Round out your grand tour of the northeast by visiting very green Bueng Kan province. The main attraction here is Hin Sam Wan (three whale rock). If you want to see the whaley shapes that give this spot its name, you’ll need a drone, but don’t let that dissuade you from hiking up to the top for views over Phu Wua Wildlife Reserve and across to Laos. Wat Phu Tok, meanwhile, makes for another nice, if slightly terrifying, hike. A temple sits atop a red sandstone outcrop; climb the winding wooden stairway to reach the top. Wrap up your road trip with another night overlooking the Mekong in low-key Nakhon Phanom. If you have time, visit Wat Phra That Phanom, one of Isaan’s most important temples, or Phu Langka National Park for one last dose of nature without the crowds before driving back to Ubon.

THERMAREST TRAIL LITE SMOKEY PINE SLEEPING PAD (B2,900) For those with higher standards.

Where to Buy: Thailand Outdoor Shop, thailandoutdoorshop.com, Line @tos-online

COOKING ESSENTIALS CYCLONE GAS STOVE (B1,150) Along a couple gas canisters, don’t forget pots, pans, and cutlery. MAGIC 2 BBQ (B1,270) Ideal for your requisite moo kata.

28QT EXTREME COOLER (B2,300) No one likes warm beer. Where to Buy: Trekking Corner, trekkingcornerthailand.com, Line @trekkingcorner

POWER ESSENTIALS

LEDLENSER MH5 HEADLAMP (B1,580) You’ve got enough on your hands to have to worry about a flashlight. WATERPROOF POWER BANK (B1,000) Where to Buy: Thailand Outdoor Shop, Decathlon (several outlets in Bangkok)

OTHER ADVICE Although they aren’t popular yet, you can now pretend you’re on a Euro-trip and rent a camper van (from B6,000/day) from Campervan Thailand (campervan-thailand.com). Don’t forget a first-aid kit, mosquito repellent, and sunscreen. And while Google Maps are king, cell service isn’t great everywhere, so it doesn’t hurt to keep an old-school road atlas. Lastly, a spare car tire could be your savior. All rentals should come with one in the trunk.

cover | road trips to take now

Baan Suan Chantita

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

Sala Bang Pa-in

Talad Sao Hai

Sangkhlaburi

Sunflowers in Lopburi

The roads in central Thailand are well-maintained, so your Toyota Vios will do just fine. Make your way westward to Kanchanaburi. The four-tiered Erawan Waterfall is always a hit, and trips to the Thailand-Burma Railway Center and the infamous Death Railway are obligatory. The Kwai River is a wonderful spot to stay, and there’s no shortage of options, floating or otherwise. U Inchantree (from B3,000/night), X2 River Kwai (from B5,700/ night), and Float House (from B4,000/night) are all nice upscale places to spend the night. Several options under B1,000 are available along the riverside Maenamkwai Road.

BOX

Head to the border town Sangkhlaburi to walk across the wooden Saphan Mon bridge, which connects modern-day Sangkhlaburi to the old Mon Village. Then, take the three sunken temples tour (B500) by boat. When the tide is high, only a small white stupa can be seen protruding from Wat Wang Wiwekaram. Back on land, enjoy a few drinks by the Mon Bridge at Mao Deep Bar. Get an early rise, and enjoy a bowl of Mon jok and a glass of Thai iced coffee (all for less than B50) at Raan Ahaan Mon before making your way to Uthai Thani. The friendly town is a nature lover’s dream, with the fertile Huai Kha Kaeng Wildlife Sanctuary an especially great place for birdwatching and trail walking. Visit Talad Sao Hai (Farmer’s Market Baan Rai) for local crafts and organic grub, then grab a bowl of guay tiew gai

(B40/bowl) at Jay Nok Guay Tiew Gai in the city. Head to Sakae Krang Market for street eats, and the nearby bridge overlooking the Sakae Krang River to get a glimpse of local life, before spending the night at minimalist haven Baan Suan Chantita Homestay (B3,000/night; it’s very popular, so book in advance). Get an early rise to enjoy some oliang (B30) and piping-hot French toast (B25) at Ban Jong Rak before leaving for monkey capital Lopburi. The historic city is all about temple ruins like Wat Phra Si Mahathat and Phra Prang Sam Yot. The latter is absolutely teeming with monkeys, so make sure your tetanus shots are up to date. Grab lunch and coffee at Krapao & Coffee, which overlooks the gorgeous Khao Chin Lae Sunflower Field (winter only). The Pasak Chonlasit Dam, meanwhile, provides vast, stunning views and winding roads. Nearby Ayutthaya is more atmospheric, with historical monuments like Wat Mahathat, Wat Phanan Choeng, and Wat Yai Chai Mongkol gracing the city’s old quarters. Ayutthaya isn’t all about the temples, though. The biggest draw might be the grilled giant river prawns (B1,000-1,800/kg) at Ruen Thai Goong Pao. Spend the night at Baan Are Gong (B450/ night) if you’re all about old, vintage vibes, or check out the new Sala Bang Pa-in (from B5,180/night). The latest boutique from the Sala Hospitality Group is located near the Summer Palace, and offers boat rides on a custom-built wooden cruiser.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

It’s easy to rent a car at the Chiang Mai airport; Hertz, Avis, and others all have booths here (from B500/ day). In the city, Chiang Mai Wheels is a solid choice (fromB990/day). Select a vehicle that has enough juice to tackle northern Thailand’s mountains, unless you’re prepared to blow out your engine on a steep incline and remove all doubt that you are from Bangkok. Once you’re on the road, head east toward Lampang, where you can fuel up at Khao Soi Islam (3 Pong Sanuk Rd.), and then buy the requisite, dirt-cheap chicken bowl. If you bypass Lampang, make a pit stop in Phrae to check out the teakwood gingerbread houses and get some pad mee (B45) from super-cute Hom 2493, a cafe occuyping an old wooden home by the old town wall. From there, push onward to Nan. The provincial capital is quaint, quiet, and packed with temples and coffee shops, but the best places to stay are further north. In remote Bo Klua, you can chill out by old salt wells and hike in Doi Phu Kha National Park, while Pua is the place to go for cottagecore. Shack up in a bamboo hut built amid the rice paddies, and then join the crowds at Huanam Mushroom Farm for the signature mushroom pizza (B140) and Ban Tai Lue Cafe for local coffee beans. From Nan, drive past Phu Langka, where tourists flock in the wintertime to witness the sea of mist over the valley, and head into Phayao. There isn’t much to do in sleepy Chiang Kham, apart from picking up Tai Lue handicrafts and checking out the striking, wooden

Wat Nantaram

Anantara Golden Triangle

Phu Chi Fah

Athita Hotel

Wat Nantaram, but the tucked-away Rico Resort is a fantastic place to spend the night (from B2,000). From here, either drive down to the provincial capital and chill out by the lake, or climb the steep, winding road up to Phu Chi Fah to see the gorgeous mist-filled valley at sunrise (winter only). You can also pick up local coffee beans and fresh strawberries when they’re in season. Note that the roads here are fantastic to drive, if you’re into that sort of thing. Drive up to Chiang Saen to laze around the ancient city by the Mekong, staying at boutique Athita Hotel (from B3,000) or, if you’ve got money to burn, the blowout Anantara Golden Triangle (from B16,000), where you can wake up to trumpeting elephants outside your jungle bubble. Alternatively, you can pass through Chiang Rai town to Doi Mae Salong, where former KMT settled decades ago, bringing a slice of southern China to Thailand, tea plantations and all. Then, drive down the winding roads at the golden hour and spend the night in Mae Ai at the serene, family-run Maekok River Village Resort (from B1,500). Wrap it up by tracing the Myanmar border on your way back to Chiang Mai via Chiang Dao, arguably one of Thailand’s most picturesque destinations, and a rock climbing mecca. While here, visit Microkosmos, a small, outdoor craft beer bar where you can try fresh IPAs from local brewer Maalstroom. Just let those wear off before you get back on the road.

food & drink | news

A new Thai craft gin puts local botanicals in the spotlight HIT THE SAUCE

The makers of Chalong Bay are channeling different spirits. With Saneha, a word that roughly translates to “passion,” the rum makers have entered the world of craft gin, and they’re putting Thai ingredients in the spotlight with tons of local botanicals. Produced using a copper still from the Armagnac region of France, Saneha features a range of all-natural Thai botanicals, like makwaen, ginger flower, pineapple, cloves, juniper, coriander, and sugarcane. The seductive, perfume-like packaging, meanwhile, features a Phuket hornbill amid splashes of jungle green, silver, and copper. Beyond the obvious passion for craft, evident in everything from the packaging to the distillation process, the Saneha name also reflects the unabashed love for Thai ingredients of the five co-founders, as well as the time and effort they’ve put into cultivating relationships with local farmers to grow and harvest organic sugarcane and pineapple. In Bangkok, head to Vivin, Gulp, and now Central Food Hall to buy a bottle (B1,190). If you want to try it in a cocktail, you can visit nearly a dozen bars in Bangkok to see what all the fuss is about, including Philtration, Stella, Bamboo Bar, Jam Jam, and Paradise Lost.

ON A ROLL

TURNING JAPANESE

Japan’s Sushiro rolls into Bangkok with conveyor belt sushi

Okura Prestige organizes five days of Japanese food and workshops

After taking much of Asia by storm with its novelty conveyor belt sushi, the Japanese franchise Sushiro has finally opened its doors in Bangkok. The joy of picking sushi off Sushiro’s moving belt is way more pleasing when it also comes at an affordable price (as cheap as B40). You can get more than 100 types of sushi here, alongside Japanese appetizers and other mains like tempura (B40-B120), edamame (B40), ramen (B100), and omelets (B40). If you’re on the hunt for some low-key maki and unusual nigiri, then head over to CentralWorld. 7/F CentralWorld

Get in the Nihon spirit this Songkran with the Okura Prestige’s Japanese Fair. The hospitality brand has curated a five-day fest from Apr 10-14, with workshops spanning food, beverages, music, and art. Hone your floral skills with the ikebana flower workshop (B2,500), try your hands at sushi-making with the omakase masterclass (B5,000), or level up your afternoon cuppa with the Japanese tea masterclass (B1,400). There are also free origami and furoshiki classes, plus an Aperol sunset lounge and izakaya night (B990), a kaiseki and sake dinner (B3,750), and more. The Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Witthayu Rd., 02-687-9000

BLANC SLATE

Lillet lands at the riverside’s luxurious Capella hotel Like Lillet? You’re in luck. The white wine-based aperitif has landed at the Capella, where the riverside Phra Nakhon bar and restaurant is now rolling out Lillet-based cocktails like the straight-up Lillet and tonic (from B300). Until Apr 9, the hotel will have a Lillet cart set up along the riverside, serving special drinks at the golden hour. If you miss it, worry not: the cart will also make appearances at the restaurant’s bi-weekly Sunday brunch, which features a full spread of Thai classics, plus fresh seafood, a carving station, and more from noon3pm (B3,000 adult/B1,500 kids). Capella Bangkok, 300/2 Charoenkrung Rd.

food & drink | open door

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

Contento brings bistro vibes to Chinatown The buzz: This dreamy bistro brings an avant-garde touch to Hua Lamphong. The decor: Surrounded by the brothels-turned-boutiques on Maitri Chit Road, Contento stands out with its fresh coat of navy blue paint and white pineapple bas relief. Inside, the feeling of over-stimulation from the outside world immediately dissipates. The romantic yet relaxed space is layered with personality. Everything from the lighting to the silverware was handpicked by owner Ou Baholyodhin (Rongros, Rong Sabiang) and reflects all the corners of the world you may be longing for. Arched windows with cafe curtains sit above a long wooden bench extending around the restaurant, contrasting white subway-tiled walls, which give off that true bistro effect. The marbled bar in the corner displays pastries in beautiful glass domes while the wall decor sees foxed-mirror shelving decked out with copper pans, cake molds, cookbooks, and antique cookware. The food: Rest assured, the menu does not stray from the setting. European comfort food takes center stage through straightforward dishes that are chock full of flavor. Start with the light-as-air chicken liver pate (B320) topped with white raisins and pistachios and served with sourdough toast, or go for an all-time classic, the calamari fritti (B280), paired with aioli and fresh lemon. For bigger

bites, move on to pastas like the Doppio Nero (B520), fresh squid ink pasta mix topped with crab meat and a hit of chili, or the spaghetti alle vongole (B380) made with seasonal clams and a briny white wine sauce. No bistro would be complete without a steak frite (B1,380); here it’s a grain-fed prime ribeye served with chimichurri sauce. For dessert, order the orange-hinted crepes Suzette (B320), and watch them be flambéed tableside. The drink: Pretend you’re sitting in St. Mark’s Square and sip on the Bellini like Harry’s (B320), or imagine you’re at the Gansevoort in New York and go for a Negroni (B380). You can also keep it light with a Chinotto (B160) or the Imperial Iced Tea (B160), a mix of black tea flavored with summer fruit, red berries, and sloe gin. The wine list, meanwhile, offers options like the crisp Calalenta Rose (B1,560/bottle) from Farmese Fantini in Sicily and Villa Antinori (B1,780/bottle), an earthy, full-bodied red from Tuscany. Why we’d come back: A destination that’s intimate without being stuffy, a menu full of comforting bites, killer beats playing in the background, a weekends-only bar on the second floor: Contento ticks all the boxes. Megan Leon Maitri Chit Rd. (near Hua Lamphong), 090-898-2397. Open Mon-Fri 11am3:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10pm

food & drink | new & noted

Monkey Pod

NEW AND NOTED

TABLE TALK

Methavalai Sorndaeng 78 2 Ratchadamnoen Avenue, 02 224 3088. Open daily 10:30am-10pm This legendary Thai fine-dining restaurant earned Michelin stars in 2019, 2020 and 2021, and boasts a loyal customer base that’s been 60 years in the making. It’s an old-school Thai restaurant that hasn’t changed much over the years, and that’s a good thing. Fancy decor, live bands in suits playing 80s music and delicious curries and salads, what’s not to like?

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A boutique wine importer opens its first store in the Mandarin Oriental

It’s all about fries at Siam Square One’s allnew Belgian outpost

The Nana area gets a dose of sophistication with Monkey Pod

A luxury hotel might not be your average landing spot for a wine store, but importer-distributor Wine Merchant defies expectations with its new space in the Mandarin Oriental. The store, set adjacent to the Authors’ Lounge, offers bottles from over 100 different wineries, plus a selection of boutique gin, vodka, and whiskey. The prices are competitive, with a wide range of wines available for less than B1,000. Co-founders Aman Sachdev and Nan Pittara—two of the people behind La Casa Nostra—say the prices are the same here as they are on their new iOS app, Virtual Wine Cellar. 48, Mandarin Oriental Hotel Bangkok, 40 Oriental Ave., 065-940-7888

A tribute to Belgium’s beloved “friteries,” Manfarang specializes in fries piled high in the sort of handheld cone you’d find on the streets of Brussels. All the spuds are sourced from Chiang Mai, handcut, and double-fried to achieve that extra level of crispiness. Pick a size (B39 petite/B79 original/B159 maxi/B309 party box), and then choose to have them cooked in beef fat (add B20) or vegetable oil and topped with sauces like truffle mayo or garlic (from B15). The menu does go beyond fries with sandwiches, including the classic truffle cheese and ham toastie (B219)— fries on the side, of course. 28 Siam Square Soi 5, 095-495-1820

Set in a teak house mansion built during World War II, this tapas-style restaurant and bar on Sukhumvit Soi 13 is a lush escape where you’d least expect it. Monkey Pod is surrounded by a garden scattered with patio tables that sit beneath an actual monkey pod tree—hence the name—and boasts an antique-filled interior. Here, Thavisack “Dou” Phouthavong, a Belgium-born, London-trained chef of Lao descent, specializes in Lao-Thai fusion. Think fun creations like the Lao Dog (B179), a deepfried mantou with spicy sai oua and pungent tomato jaew, and Moo Pla Ra (B479), a Sloane’s pork chop glazed in fermented fish sauce. 27 Soi Sukhumvit 13, 02-115-9830

BK MAGAZINE

FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

TABLE TALK House of Hotdogs

NEW AND NOTED

This sourdough haven bakes flavorful bread the traditional way

Sizzle and smoke star at unpretentious Aromkwan

Get your New York street food fix from this hot dog specialist

Run by a Russian family, Sourdough specializes in bread made the traditional way. Olga and Andrei Matveenkova use an all-natural starter—no commercial yeast involved—and bake their loaves on the stone, giving them a just-right amount of sourness, crunch, and chew. Go for their classic wheat (B120) for a tangy flavor, the rye (B180) for a heartier taste, or wheat with seeds (B160) for some crunch. At their spacious Soi Pan coffee shop, they also offer a variety of sandwiches like the Truffle & Cheese (B140), all to go with a mean cup of coffee. 36/4 Soi Pan, 094-352-6509

Set in the home of former Funky Lam chef Vishanu “Bank” Prempuk, who is half-Thai, half-Malay, this Batik-decorated smoke-slash-grill house is less a restaurant than a private dining experience. All inhibitions—as well as cutlery—are left at the door, as Aromkwan serves food family-style on banana leaves, to be eaten with hands. You’ll start with tender ox tongue served in a peppery rasam before moving into a feast of nine-hour-brined and smoked pork knuckle, fall-off-the-bone claypot goat curry, and grilled mackerel—all served over steaming biryani rice, a family recipe the chef holds dear to his heart (Btktk). 297/2 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 088-495-8213

The humble hot dog gets its moment in the sun at this aptly named bun slinger. House of Hotdogs promises New York-style dogs, the kind traditionally topped with heaps of sauerkraut, spicy mustard, and onions. Here, they come in a range of options—beef, chicken, pork, or vegan (B99-B129)—including loads of toppings. Think kaprao gai (from B129), jerk chicken (from B139), and the classic New York (from B139). You can also customize your order with condiments like kimchi, sriracha mayo, jerk sauce, and truffle mayo. It’s delivery-only for now (Foodpanda, Lineman), but there are plans to open a brick-and-mortar shop soon. fb.com/houseofhotdogsasia

Tasty Congee & Noodle Wantun Shop G/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, 02-001-9868. Open 11:30am-10pm. This Hong Kong import brings over seven decades of congee and wonton noodle expertise to Bangkok’s fierce noodle battlefield. The wonton fillings here follow a strict 7:3 shrimppork ratio for that time-honored balance and succulent flavor that makes Hong Kong noodle shops so popular among Thai tourists. Congee is served piping hot and comes with a bunch of sides, like fish, pork, sliced beef, and meatballs. They practically brought the whole Hong Kong island over, too, with steaming barbecue, dim sum, and wok-made food.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get a complimentary House Specialty Wonton in Soup valued THB 220 when spending THB 2,000 or more / sales slip (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip) 15 Mar – 31 Dec ’21

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2020

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feature | bkk’s new bars

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 9, 2021

Siwilai Sound Club

BKK Social Club

Lost & Found

Ms. Jigger Stella

Bardo Social Bistro and Bar

Back in Spirits

Craft beer, vinyl, cocktails made with vinegar. Bars so new you haven’t even followed them on Instagram yet. There’s a lot of good stuff happening in the nightlife scene. Here are some recently opened bars you should check out now that nightlife is back again. By BK Staff Bardo Social Bistro and Bar Sathorn’s latest post-work hangout gives Cafe de Stag a run for its money with its upscale-casual French bistro vibe—think awesome drink deals, checkered floors, counter bar seating, and green-painted walls that feature stellar artwork by French urban artist Kostar. Pair Mediterranean bites with cocktails that embrace local ingredients like dragon fruit, lemongrass, and galangal. 28/12 Sathorn Soi 10, 084-079-8830

Bar Marco The Rabbit Hole team has expanded its empire further still with this homey, retro-style opening in Thonglor. Backed by a towering wall of vinyl, DJs spin soul, funk, and disco while the bartenders shake up creative yet approachable cocktails to be paired with simple Thai dishes for one truly chilled-out package. 946/9 Thonglor Soi 20, 065-464-6925

BKK Social Club The sparkly new Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok scored big when it got Philip Bischoff, former bar manager of Singapore’s esteemed Manhattan, to take the reins at its flagship bar. Decor and drinks are inspired by the glamor of old Buenos Aires, meaning you can puff fine cigars as you sip Latin American and pre-Prohibition era concoctions next to the river. Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, 300/1 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-032-0888

Tax A tumbledown commercial building close to Maitri Chit Road is poised to become Bangkok’s hottest new nightlife hub courtesy of the Teens of Thailand and Asia Today crew. Next to partner restaurant Black King Bar you’ll find Tax, an airy, gorgeously distressed space where nightlife VIP Niks Anuman-Rajadhon and company make cocktails built on homemade vinegars amid dim lights, paint-splotched walls, and exposed concrete. 695-697 Maitri Chit Rd., 061-917-9719

Lost & Found Designed by Ashley Sutton (Sing Sing Theater; Iron Balls), this long-awaited bar finally launched at the Avani Riverside late last year. Fashioned as a clandestine, long-lost hideout for elites, the opulent tunnel-shaped bar sits somewhere between retro space station and Aztec bunker, creating a scene that promises to only get more fantastical with regular drag, fashion, and theater shows. 3/F, Avani+ Riverside Bangkok Hotel, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-431-9100

Stella Long in the making, the Capella Bangkok’s riverside dessertand-cocktail boudoir aims for substance and style. Marked by opulent chinoiserie—think intricate frescos and iridescent silks—the bar serves decadent sweets and cleansing drinks that take inspiration from stories of female heroism across Asia. There’s a line-up of live performances each night, too. 300/2 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-098-3888

Haze Luang Road’s new craft beer bar may remind you of its last, as it’s located in the space that used to house Let the Boy Die. Most beers are top-flight imports, but some come from local brewer Puma and the folks behind criminally underhyped Baan Bangkok and Dok Kaew Bar in Ari. Expect IPAs—lots of them—live music, meat-centric bar food, and zero frills. 425 Luang Rd., 083-603-6911

Bootleg Brothers Taproom The local microbrewers whose beer you’ve probably seen in supermarkets are opening soon in an unlikely location: within Escape Rooftop Bar at EmQuartier. Here, you’ll get brews that go beyond the pale ale, plus all the easy-drinking favorites you know from Bootleg Brothers. Escape, 5/F, The EmQuartier, 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd., fb.com/bootlegbrothersbrewingco

Ms. Jigger Ms. Jigger, the Kimpton Maa-Lai hotel’s cosmopolitan cocktail bar and restaurant, is easily found tucked within the hotel’s gleaming lobby. Fans of the hotel’s always-packed Bar Yard— plus those with a soft spot for Italian cuisine and quirky yet classy cocktails—already have this place on their shortlist. Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok, 78 Soi Ton Son, Lumphini., 02-056-9999

Siwilai Sound Club Charoenkrung’s still-blossoming creative neighborhood welcomes a classy cocktail and jazz bar from the ever stylish Siwilai brand. Picture a marriage of a New York City jazz club and a Tokyo-style vinyl bar, but with a Thai twist. Soothing jazz classics, high-tech equipment, and an in-the-know vibe draw serious jazz fans and young urbanite couples looking for intimate date nights. Central: The Original Store, 18 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-267-0415

the last word | hitting close to home

Thai director Taiki Sakpisit opens up on his awardwinning debut feature

What are other influences or films you referenced? Any movies in particular? I tried not to find inspiration only from movies that I like… but also art and music. During the pre-production process, I found that a traditional storyboard did not challenge the imagination enough. So I shifted to visual references for my crew, such as photographs, paintings, and sculptures, like the sculpture of Berlinde De Bruyckere, or Jeff Wall’s photography. But of course there are a few movies that I take inspiration from: the poetic realism of “Port of Shadow” (1938) or the play of light, shadow, and color in “Window Water Baby Moving” (1959). I knew from the start that I wanted the film to be black and white. The script I wrote in each scene was specifically designed to be monochromatic. I would write something like “water stain,” “rust on a cement pole,” and “texture of a snake’s skin,” for example. Light and shadows are other essential elements of the movie. Tell us about the film’s experimental music score.

remiering at the Rotterdam Film Festival, “The Edge of Daybreak” introduces viewers to a dysfunctional Thai family torn apart by violence and trauma. The movie not only won praise from foreign critics but also brought back one of the festival’s most prestigious prizes. Director Taiki Sakpisit opens up about his mysterious film, which has won high acclaim on the international stage but remains little known in Thailand. By Chayanit Itthipongmaetee

This film is your debut feature. How did it start?

here is a concept that I was really interested in: paralysis. Not only in the sense of a physical state, but also a mental one, and the paralysis of time is something I wanted to explore… because it made me think of the power to spellbind the masses. What was the film’s source material? Any political or real life events? [I read] a biography of Pridi Banomyong, the former prime minister of Thailand forced to flee the country after a military coup. A part of the book touched me very much: the night soldiers attacked Pridi’s home, and Pridi had to jump into the Chao Phraya River to escape. Still, the soldiers opened fire on his house. Pridi’s wife [Poonsuk Banomyong] shouted, “Please stop shooting. Only children and women are here.” That hit me with the idea of a family torn apart by political events, and the love of a mother who would do anything to protect her children–something I can really relate to. If you watch the movie, you might be able to sense that the survival struggle is at the heart of it. Due to the pandemic, your film premiered online instead of in a cinema. How did you feel about that? Of course, as a filmmaker, I’d prefer my film be shown on a high-definition screen. But I found it impressive that my audience was so determined to watch it. At the Rotterdam Film Festival, which was held online, people who bought tickets could only watch it one time when they clicked the play button. They couldn’t rewind to see the whole film, which made the experience almost like watching it at a cinema.

My music composer [Yasuhiro Morinaga] and I needed music that could connect spiritually. One day, Yasuhiro suggested I work with this Indonesian band, a hardcore one, called Senyawa. They make their own instruments out of bamboo and create such a unique sound. [Band member] Wukir Suryadi watched my film and improvised what he felt. We also worked with musicians from other countries such as Japan and Vietnam. We ended up having so many sound elements to choose from. We had so much fun working on the score alone. How do you view the present state of Thai cinema? My film talks about Thai history subtly, not directly. It’s not a historical movie nor a biopic about someone. But it’s a personal film that fixes on one single family I made up. It might be an overstatement saying that a film like mine is difficult to watch. It’s just that there are not many movies like this coming from the Thai film industry. If you asked me about the space occupied by Thai movies, many indie filmmakers would say that space is very small for them. But I didn’t expect much anyway. I just did my best without thinking too much about the feedback or whatever comes after. For me, the filmmaking experience is already fulfilling, from the start to the end.

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