it's free! Golden Ticket Meet the man giving Thai amulets a 21st-century makeover Smoke Signals Where Highland sees the legal marijuana movement going Normalized Never Normal is giving Lad Phrao creatives a community space Fork It A guide to Lad Phrao’s best street food and shophouse restaurants
NO. 810 JULY 23, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com
The Lad Phrao Issue
food & drink
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2021
02
ADVERTORIAL
FEAST OF A DEAL
Simple Pleasures Places to go when you want simple things done beautifully Patom
With the greenhouse-like venue that made a huge hit with the photo-hungry cafe hoppers, this place is all about products made of ingredients sourced from local organic local farmers supported by the Sookjai Foundation. Aside from aromatic coffee made from local beans, there is a selection of organic Thai sweets served in bite size portions, including kanom tuay (Organic Steamed coconut milk pudding). 9/2 Sukhumvit 49/6 (Soi Prompak), 02-084-8649. Open daily 10am-7pm There are two other branches in Nakorn Patom and The Parq Rama 4.
Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 15% discount on food and non-alcoholic beverages and personal care when spending THB 500 or more /sale slip (Applicable for takeaway) 1 Apr ’21 – 31 Mar ’22
Sarnies
The spacious cafe takes over a 150-year-old corner shop-house that once was a boat repair shop with brushed concrete, distressed brickwork and leafy plants. Hangovers meet their match in the homemade bacon and egg sandwich, which comes in a huge portion that you could easily split between two people. 101 Charoen Krung Soi 44, 02-102-9407. Open daily 8am-10pm
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Pimp My Salad Made up of modish grey concrete and embellished with blond-wood seating, this salad bar proves that healthy doesn’t have to equal boring. Choose from healthy bowls like the Hula Hula Tuna (avocado, edamame, pickled daikon and carrot kimchi, brown rice, and furikake). 56 Soi 8 (Sathorn), 02-550-7623. Open daily 8am-10pm
Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members
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1 Jul ’21 – 30 Jun ’22
Tea Factory and More
Inspired by a Sri Lankan tea factory, the interior is a moody mix of dark woods, crystal chandeliers and fresh flower bouquets, with a ton of natural light. Pair your scone with over 20 varieties of tea from around the world, including five special cold brews, like the rose-scented black tea, La Vie en Rose.
Pimp My Salad
95 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 062-575-4411. Open daily Mon-Thu 10am-7pm; Fri-Sun 10am-9pm
Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 5% discount on food and bakery when spending THB 600 or more /sales slip (Applicable for takeaway) 15 Mar ’21 – 15 Mar ’22
(Applicable for takeaway) 1 Jul ’21 – 30 Jun ’22
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page 3 Who's in charge?
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BK EDITORIAL
one day in...
Managing Editor Craig Sauers
Life in Lad Phrao’s tortuous narrow lanes
Senior Writers Veerabhatr Sriyananda, Alisha Pawa, Porpor Leelasestaporn Contributors Megan Leon GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO
Back in the ’Burbs If you take the thousand-foot view of Lad Phrao, you’re likely to lose focus. Narrow alleys cut through the northern district like a network of blood vessels. From afar, it looks like a concrete labyrinth unlikely to contain little more than rowhouses and roads.
Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu Account Manager Summer Lee Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana
06
Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Umporn Jiaranai
feature
Meet the goldsmith giving amulets a fresh revamp
Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Manager Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Anuwattanawong, Joseph Toh, Ain Zulkifni, Waranuch Thaneerat Business Development Executives Palita Nueangnit SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri
At street level, it can be precisely that, too. Lad Phrao’s traffic is legendary for all the wrong reasons. It’s spread out and difficult to navigate on foot, and few outsiders seem to make it past Union Mall and Central Ladprao, or in the best of times past the dive bars and restaurants near the top of Lad Phrao Road. Further in, fast-rising condos loom over shophouses and gated compounds, suggesting there isn’t much to do here other than just exist.
Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas
But Lad Phrao boasts greater diversity and a larger breadth of activities to enjoy than its layout suggests. Art galleries and creative spaces lay buried in the back sois. As is the norm seemingly everywhere these days, it’s a coffee geek’s dream, with too many quality coffee shops to highlight in these pages alone. The neighborhood’s affordable and abundant housing options have also turned it into a hub for the city’s young, creative, and street fashion-forward crowds.
On the cover: Lad Phrao’s elephant building by Chatchawan Greblumjeak
08 roundup
You might find local runners lingering over coffee and waffles at cafes on weekends, art patrons shuffling into galleries, or uni students surf-skating at Never Normal, a so-called “co-creative” community space that seems to represent the fundamental shift in wants and needs occurring as Bangkok’s older generation unwittingly yields to its youth.
6 spots in Lad Phrao for art lovers
BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication. Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam Operations Manager Clarissa Cortes
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food & drink
Where to eat for less, from Lad Phrao Road to Chok Chai 4 and beyond
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BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited. The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.
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14
15
feature
the last word
Never Normal
Rattapon “Guide” Sanrak
Lad Phrao isn’t your expected center of focus for a magazine. But we believe it has a lot to offer, and the community growing up from its concrete shouldn’t be overlooked. As you flip through these pages, you’ll find profiles of local creators and activists, roundups of great places to eat, and more. Take a trip to the suburbs when you get the chance. You won’t regret it… except for when you’re stuck in traffic on a tiny back soi. We can’t promise you’ll enjoy that.
ONE DAY IN…
Lad Phrao
This sprawling residential neighborhood is ringed by car-rammed highways, and its narrow alleyways are a nightmare for traffic, too. Yet more and more people are flocking to this part of town for its quaint cafes, homey restaurants, and quirky bars where young and old mingle. Lad Phrao is better than ever. Here’s why. By BK Staff
MORNING Brekkie in Lad Phrao means cups of coffee and mouth-watering treats at chic cafes. Dig into the salmon eggs Benedict (B280) at leafy Bluetamp Coffee, and pair it with one of the specialty coffees on the menu. If you’re planning to work remotely, industrial loft-style co-working space-slash-cafe Maven Mesh has what you’re after. Kickstart your morning with their lychee expresso (B115) and ham and cheddar cheese croissant (B105). Specialty coffee roaster Ratt highlights single-origin beans at its slow bar inside a cottage-like space. If you like your coffee light on the coffee, try the dirty coconut (B100) or lime soda espresso (B100). Further out, cozy Kinn Kaffe & Craft serves comfort treats and drinks, from scones and lemon cheesecake to hot chai latte (B85), in a space that might remind you of your grandparents’ cottage (if your grandparents come from rural Germany, perhaps). Just in it for the coffee? Other good options include the living room-like WaWa Cafe and Bar at Never Normal; homey coffee shop Amico Factory, a favorite among local runners for its coffee and kombucha; minimalist flag-bearer Blackhills; and local legend Ristretto espresso bar.
LUNCH With a mix of international and Thai restaurants, Lad Phrao now has more to offer than ever. The second branch of Berlin’s Doner Kebab serves exactly what its name says from a small hub on Lad Phrao Soi 18: Berlin-style kebabs, plus Berlin specialties like currywurst. Looking for a juicy burger? Head to Jim’s Burgers and Beers at Sena Nikhom or craft beer and burger bar The Fat Cow. For classic Thai cuisine made with local ingredients, head to the photogenic Kiew Kai Ka for dishes like gaeng phed ped yang (Thai duck curry, B350), Nivas Cafe and Bistro, which packs a punch with their durian massaman (B350), or Zhong Ped Palow, a local institution loved for its ped palo (Thai-Chinese steamed duck, B145). For top quality beef noodles, guay tiew ruea, head to Thongsmith at Central Ladprao and order the namtok wagyu (B299), or stick with the reliable Arno Thai for beef tenderloin krapao (B250). For creative fusion, settle in at Tanwa The Food Project for an artsy take on delicacies like the cronuts, which come in multiple interesting flavors, from salted cream custard (B120) to moo daeng (B120) and chicken gaprao (B120).
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY,JULY 23, 2021
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AFTERNOON Niche businesses catering to young and creative types are popping up across the community. Along residential Lad Phrao Soi 18, you’ll find Never Normal, a co-creative space that not only hosts a variety of unique events, but also fosters a growing community of surf-skaters with its private practice area. Crate-diggers will find bliss at Garage Records (Lad Phrao Soi 8). One of Bangkok’s most reliable vinyl purveyors, it’s packed with rare finds from a wide range of genres. Just a minute from there, you’ll also find a cafe from the folks behind Highland (Lad Phrao Soi 2), which offers valuable insights into the cannabis and marijuna scene in Thailand and also serves a nice, flame-grilled cheeseburger and draft beer (see p15 for more). Have a dog that’s in need of some TLC? Check out Happy Pup (Lad Phrao Soi 1), which boasts a swimming pool for dogs, as well as grooming services and a cafe (for humans). Meanwhile, Organic Supply is the kind of shop every neighborhood needs. Located near Nak Niwat Soi 7, the shop brings organic, eco-friendly, and local goods from the likes of Soganics and Common Ground to the suburban back sois, plus fresh-pressed juices, vegan treats, and more.
DINNER Ultra-retro Pathe Antique and Restaurant is perfect for an after-work beer (Singha, B130/glass) paired with spicy beef salad (B90). But if you’re after something upscale, check out Vinifera. The neighborhood stalwart is all about Italian and French classics like pasta aglio e oglio (B300) and duck confit (B490). You can also opt for the chef’s table experience at Red Brick Kitchen, a private kitchen serving eight-course meals (B2,500) including dishes like apple raisin caper soup with scallop and mentaiko potato mousseline. The Centara Grand, meanwhile, serves well-executed Cantonese dishes at Dynasty and royal Thai recipes at Suan Bua. For the finest Thai-Chinese fare in the ’hood, celebrity chef Gigg’s Lerdtip comes up big with the must-try Akita wagyu krapao (B1,500). Craving some beef barbeque? Ko Kun Khun Thong Nuanchan 21 and Monster Beef don’t disappoint.
NIGHTLIFE Despite, or perhaps because of, its residential reputation, Lad Phrao is packed with fun and hip local bars. Conveniently located near MRT Phahonyothin, Singaporean-born microbrewery The 1925 offers craft beer and live music, while nearby Method to My Madness serves local beers with dive-like conviviality and a great indie soundtrack. For folks who yearn for liquid creativity, head to Ninetails Bar and Booster (Lad Phrao Soi 4) for its Chinese-inspired cocktails. Aforementioned The Fat Cow (Lad Phrao Soi 15), meanwhile, is a hub for craft beer geeks. Further out, Where Do We Go also specializes in craft beer, here served with Isaan dishes in a bustling, amber-lit pub space.
feature | old rules, new look
STAY GOLD Despite his lack of formal design training, Pichanan “Pop” Sinsap, founder and designer of Mongkon 108, has struck gold with his unorthodox approach to amulet-framing. Bridging classical Thai conventions with modernist aesthetics, his style has drawn an eclectic mix of buyers from across Asia and has helped bring Buddhist relics into the 21st century. By Veerabhatr Sriyananda Amid the street food stalls and mom-and-pop shops in Lad Phrao’s hectic Chok Chai 4 neighborhood, goldsmith shop Mongkon 108 hides behind deceptively outdated signage—like something you might find fronting a decades-old gold shop on Yaowarat Road. Inside, founder Pichanan “Pop” Sinsap and his team work their magic on accessories, commemorative pieces, and more each day. They aren’t hammering away at your basic gold bracelets, though. Here, Pichanan and company reimagine Buddhist accessories, taking a contemporary, if unorthodox, approach to creating gold casings for amulets. “I think it’s important to modernize the way we wear amulets before they start to become irrelevant,” he explains. “A hybrid of old and new worlds is the way forward. You might say it’s like the sacred world’s ‘new normal.’”
BK BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MARCH 12, 2021 MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 23,
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Sacred Buddhist amulets have long been a significant part of Thai culture. All generations, young and old, wear them for luck or good fortune. In this, Pichanan, who has only been in business for five years, saw a golden opportunity to apply fresh, modern designs to historic Buddhist art and make these religious relics relevant to younger generations. His clientele include working-age Thai nationals, as well as overseas clients in Vietnam, Singapore, Hong Kong, and mainland China. Many of his local customers, somewhat surprisingly, are in their 20s. “Most of the time, they just want a nice accessory to commemorate their graduation or getting their first job,” says Pichanan. But the shop does draw from further afield, and for different reasons. “There’s one particular American client who has a penchant for gold casings for his old Spanish coins. He would come to my shop with these eccentric, Pirates of the Caribbeanesque designs,” he says. “Later I discovered that he has his own shop in New York.” Besides creating fresh, neo-Buddhist designs, Pichanan and his team of goldsmiths provide guidance for clients who often come to them with outlandish designs. He says they try to walk them back a bit. “It’s very easy to get carried away and overdesign things that overshadow the beauty of the amulets. We don’t just flood our designs with thick gold and diamonds. We stick to the framework and traditions of Buddhist art but add a modern twist.” Despite his lack of formal design training, Pichanan took to the business quickly and has now developed a repeatable formula for his designs. It’s one that walks the tightrope between respect for religious beliefs and style. “We still base our designs on old-school tigers, lions, naga, and the traditional Thai kanok design, but we put in different colors, or add some diamonds where we can. It’s a matter of mixing and matching to make it look modern but not random,” he says. And unlike most types of businesses, Pichanan’s actually grew during the pandemic. That’s because it’s based on belief. He notes how belief that a particular amulet can prevent outbreaks might seed greater interest in it and send the price of that relic soaring. That has led to a relative boom in the industry. “More and more shops similar to mine have opened lately, which is a surprise given how the economy is now,” he admits. In the next year or so, Pichanan aims to open a specialty coffee cafe and art gallery in Chok Chai 4, a neighborhood he’s called home for 40 years and one that holds a special place in his heart. “I want it to be more than just a cafe and a gallery: a communal space where you can hang out and share ideas,” he says. “Lad Phrao’s population makes it special. I feel like this area has a lot to offer me and many others in the future.”
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 14, 2021
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feature | 6 art spaces in lad phrao
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2021
Brush Up Stretching across the vast expanse of Lad Phrao you’ll find a handful of small and often independent art spaces. Some fly under the radar while others are leaving a mark on the city’s growing art scene. Whether you’re a serious collector or casual onlooker, there’s something for you here. By BK Magazine
Offbeat Box
ART TO ART GALLERY This cafe-slash-art gallery, now located in Chatuchak Market’s bustling shopping district, has exhibited contemporary art from Thailand and Southeast Asia since 2005. It’s full of intriguing paintings, sculptures, and home decor and is an easy place to shop. You can also browse its well-kept website and inquire about purchases online (arttoartgallery.com). Jatujak Plaza, Zone C, Soi 3, Room 118-119, 599 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd., 096-576-6830. Open Tue-Sun 10am-8pm.
MIDNICE GALLERY Open since 2013, this art space aims to promote the work of young and emerging artists in Thailand, Thai and foreign alike. The colorful, 170-square-meter gallery often holds exhibitions and workshops, from street art classes to skateboard painting primers. You can even rent the space for an exhibition or workshop for a day (B3,500) or a month (B12,000). Diamond Apartment, Chok Chai 4 Rd., 086-282-0282. Open Tue-Sat 11:30am-8:30pm.
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCA) Built and owned by DTAC mogul Boonchai Bencharongkul, this 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building was Thailand’s first significant, permanent modern art collection open to the public when it opened. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, befitting the museum’s name. But local tastes and trends in Thai art mean you can expect a collection with few conceptual pieces. Instead, expect plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes, or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. But a few more political and controversial pieces have made their way into the collection, too 499 Kamphaeng Phet 6 Rd., 02-016-5666. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.
MOCA
OFFBEAT BOX One of the newest kids on the block, this creative space nestled near the crossroads of the busy district showcases conceptual art and illustrations that tend to be, as the name suggests, a little offbeat. Established in early 2020, the gallery is made up of two showrooms in old shipping containers. While the main room houses collections and series from well-known Bangkok-based artists, the smaller room is dedicated to emerging new media artists. You can also purchase pieces that run the gamut from sculptures to printmaking and more. 24, 180 Lad Phrao Soi 21, 082-612-0672. Open Wed-Sun 11am-6pm.
SALA SUDASIRI SOBHA One of the city’s premier concert halls sits inconspicuously in the back sois of Lad Phrao. Designed and owned by renowned classical pianist and composer Nat Yontararak, the ornate, 180- to 200-seat space was constructed with both acoustics and grandeur in mind. The space is extremely ornamental and flush with references to the Thai crown, evoking an Austrian concert hall on a smaller scale, and it plays host to some of the best-quality classical performances you’ll find in the city. It’s also for rent for weddings and other private events.
Midnice Gallery
158/20 Lad Phrao Soi 41, 02-541-8662.
THAVIBU ART Formerly located in Silom, this cozy gallery specializes in modern Asian paintings from Thailand, Myanmar, and Vietnam. There isn’t one thread that runs through all the works here. They come from emerging and established artists, and they address everything from religious to social and political issues. Many, however, feature lacquer work or acrylics. You can pick up books on art here or whole pieces. The gallery also ships internationally. 41 Chok Chai 4 Rd., 02-538-6013. Open by appointment.
Art to Art Gallery
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food & drink | street eats
BIG BITES IN THE ’BURBS Bubbling hot pot, late-night congee shops, crepe vendors with queues that will blow your mind: Lad Phrao is loaded with beloved street food institutions and mom-and-pop shops. Here are some of our favorites. By BK Magazine
Chor Sornkeaw Once you’ve tried every sticky rice champ in town, you might want to give this colorful variety a shot (from B70). Chor Sornkeaw stands out from the crowd thanks to its pretty rice, colored in different shades depending on whether it has been sweetened with turmeric, rose, butterfly pea, or pandan. It’s not just about looks, though. This rice tends to be lighter, its flavors balancing themselves with the coconut milk toppings. Chor Sornkeaw also serves its khao niew moon with a selection of toppings, like jackfruit and dried fish.
Je Kiang Jok
33/500, Chok Chai 4 Soi 54, Lad Phrao, 02-931-0000, 02-931-0005. Open daily 6am-9pm.
Chua Kim Lhee Din Daeng Goose This small shop specializes in Thai-Chinese roasted goose and duck, han palo and ped palo respectively (from B195 for a small plate). That’s really about all you’re going for here: springy, perfectly cooked fowl in hearty, spiced broth, served simply with white rice. Get some cabbage stir-fried in fish sauce to round out your meal. Simple. 1783/17-18 Lad Phrao Soi 35/1, 02-938-3990. Open daily 8am-8pm.
Chua Kim Lhee Din Daeng Goose
Dang Noodles
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2021
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Crepe Pa Chuey
Je Kiang Jok
This legendary crepe vendor is known for being meticulous. Put another way, you might wait up to an hour to try her sweet and savory crepes, but many will tell you it’s worth it. Many favor the nam phrik pao (roasted chili) and moo yong (pork nofloss) fillings, but you can get sweet options like Nutella and banana, too (all from B30).
Chok Chai 4’s 24-hour congee shop keeps hungry customers satisfied no matter the time they stumble into the shop. Customize your order—fillings include mushrooms, innards, pork balls, and fish (from B30)—or go for the guay jab (rice noodle rolls in a peppery broth; from B50).
33, 311 Chok Chai 4. Open daily noon-9pm.
18/97 Chok Chai 4, 02-933-3118. Open daily 24 hours.
Dang Noodles
Somboon Thai
Conveniently located Dang Noodles is a one-stop shop for all kinds of dishes. Most come for the crispy pork, barbecue pork, and wontons, served with noodles or rice (from B40-50), but you can get cheap and delicious stir-fried clams, goy see mee (Chinese-style deep-fried noodles in gravy), and more.
Beef lovers flock to this humble noodle shop, which has slowly expanded into the neighboring ground floor space. You can order your soup as a hot pot or single bowl; both brim with a deeply flavorful dark broth and bobbing bits of meatballs, sliced beef (or pork or chicken, if you so desire), and chopped greens (B50-150).
Lad Phrao Rd. (between Sois 15-17), 082-362-8444. Open daily 4pm-2am.
258/2 Lad Phrao Rd. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-8pm, Sun 9am-4pm.
Somyoth Somyoth, a Michelin-acclaimed khao tom shop, serves on-point Thai and Thai-Chinese dishes until the early hours, making it a preferred place to sober up. The food comes out hot and fast. Try the tom yam with tilapia (B290), squid stir-fried with salted egg (B90), and crispy catfish salad (B130).
Somyoth
Chok Chai 4 Soi 72, 085-224-4617. Open daily 5pm-4am.
Zhong Ped Palow Local favorite Zhong is another late-night institution, opening from lunchtime until the pre-dawn hours. The obvious draw is the ped palo (stewed duck in a slightly sweet five-spice broth, from B145). You can get a little of everything here, though, from fried red snapper (B460) to kaeng khua (red curry with scallops, B170) and stir-fried bitter melon with egg (B100). Tables turn over quickly, and the atmosphere is always buzzing. 12/2 Lad Phrao Wanghin Soi 82, 02-570-4080. Open daily 11am-4am. Crepe Pa Chuey
Zhong Ped Palow
6 reasons to brave lad phrao traffic
Berlin’s
TABLE TALK
EASY BURGER
NEW AND NOTED
18/6 Sukhumvit Soi 50, 099-007-0020. Open daily 11am-11:30pm On Nut's Easy Burger specializes in the good-old smash technique, which produces a thin patty with crispy edges and a juicy center. The classic burger features local beef, dry-aged for 28 days (with an option for to switch to organic pork) and sandwiched in a milk and butter bun with shallots, special sauce, lettuce, ketchup and pickles, while the Bacon Blue comes loaded with gorgonzola, maple bacon jam, homemade ranch and pickles. Wash it all down with a homemade Arnold Palmer.
Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food and non-alcoholic beverages when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip (Applicable for takeaway)
Berlin’s
The Fat Cow
Nivas Cafe and Bistro
Phrom Phong went wild for this Berlininspired doner kebab shop. Then, they opened a second branch on Lad Phrao Soi 18 to the delight of everyone in northern Bangkok. Here, they serve the same gigantic beef, lamb, and chicken kebabs, falafel sandwiches, and lahmacun (Turkish pizza) as the original branch, but they also offer an extremely Berlin delicacy: currywurst. The chopped up sausage comes with spicy ketchup and can be served with fries or rice. They also dabble in other Deutsch fare like schnitzel and Hamburg-style frikadelle (pan-fried meatballs). 24 Lad Phrao Soi 18, 092973-1961
Physically, the Fat Cow isn’t much more than a small room backed by a kitchen and built around a well-stocked fridge. But Lad Phrao’s flag-bearer for craft beer, specifically the latest from independent Thai brewers, plays a big role in Bangkok’s beer-drinking community. Beloved by the city’s beer geeks for carrying the freshest and often hardest-to-find bottles and cans, the bar-restaurant also serves excellent Western pub grub, including juicy burgers made with Australian beef and sandwiches fully loaded with roast beef, meatballs, and cheesesteak. 765 Lad Phrao Rd., 092-556-2876
Nivas Cafe and Bistro, a traditional Thai restaurant that serves potent regional cuisine, sees chef Taninthorn “Noom” Chantarawan (of Michelin-starred Chim by Siam Wisdom) teaming up with up-and-coming chef Pitchakorn “Pop” Ramabut. Together they create mouth-watering dishes that span the country, from Thai stir-fried stink beans and prawns with shrimp paste (B250) to sets stacked with plump river prawns stir-fried in salt and chili, fish curries, and more. In other words, classic Thai food prepared with contemporary technique and excellent ingredients. 33 Soi Nak Niwat 24, Nak Niwat Rd., 093-575-9533
1 May ’21- 30 Apr ’22
TBT- EASY BURGER_.indd 1
Nivas Cafe and Bistro
21/7/2564 BE 13:37
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 25, 2021
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Kiew Kai Ka
TABLE TALK
LITTLE MARKET Kiew Kai Ka Set in a glasshouse replete with tropical touches, enduringly popular Kiew Kai Ka is reason to brave the congested traffic of Lad Phrao. The hanging ferns, banana-leaf wallpaper, and vintage parquet floors are complemented by rustic Thai food from all around the country. Chef Nathawut Nantakaem (formerly of The Never Ending Summer) serves regional recipes picked up in places like Phrae, often featuring goods plucked from the chef’s own garden in Ratchaburi. Always on trend, the restaurant even serves select cannabislaced dishes now. 33 Nak Niwat Rd., 095-949-9299
The 1925 The Bangkok branch of the Singaporean microbrewery landed in Lad Phrao in 2019. The space is your classic, low-lit and brick-walled brewpub, promising live tunes, Asian drinking food—grilled meat topped with chopped Thai chilies, French fries, fried rice, Singaporean bak kut teh—and beer on draft. Often, that means brews from Singapore, like The 1925’s Yellow Van IPA, 622 dark ale, and chrysanthemumlaced Liang Teh lager. They also pour beers from around the world, including Belgian white ales and craft beers like Thailand’s Chalawan pale ale. G/F Ladprao Hills Bldg., 80 Lat Phrao Rd., 095-825-1925
5/4, Yen Akat Rd., 092-414-6890. Open daily 11:30am-9:30pm
Root Bar This hideaway opened in the thick of the pandemic, and sadly it hasn’t been able to open very often. The bar is under the direction of Methawee “Gen” Seekhaow, a Koh Samui transplant who whips up craft cocktails inside this underground, nature-themed space. Roots climb down the wooden bar back, where spirits from importers like Bootleggers line the shelves. The drinks, in the limited time Root has been open, offer creative takes that run the gamut of flavor profiles or riff on the classics. Think daquiries with smoky mezcal. 1130 Pha honyothin Rd.
One of the few places in town to find real-deal Americanstyle smash burgers done right — a crispy-but-juicy patty, tangy mustard, slick of American cheese and a pillowy bun. Other American favorites, like Philly cheesesteaks, Buffalo chicken sandwiches and steak burgers live up to the same standard. Their delivery combo sets, with two burgers, fries and homemade ketchup, are definitely a good way to dip your toes in Little Market if you haven’t already.
Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food and non-alcoholic beverages when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip (Applicable for takeaway)
1 May ’21 – 30 Apr ’22
TBT- littlemarket_.indd 1
16/7/2564 BE 12:38
feature | lad phrao’s creative hub
New Never Normal In 2019, ad agency pro Narin “Bee” Bovonrattanpran discovered an empty lot tucked away in residential Lad Phrao and set out to build a seedbed for emerging artists. True to its name, the four-story Never Normal is not your average art studio. Narin explains why this venue has never stopped evolving, and why it’s far from the ordinary. By Porpor Leelasestaporn
“In my line of work, the only color you see is black,” says Narin, as he guides us through his daily routine as a colorist for an advertising agency, the work that largely defined his life before he opened Never Normal, a four-story creative community space on Lad Phrao Soi 18. “You usually start with this dark, blank screen before adding any colors, and that absence of colors makes me feel quite lonely.” Working in post-production, Narin doesn’t have much time to converse with other people except during ad briefing meetings or after-work hangouts. Yearning to fill the void, to account for this lack of connectivity, Narin and three friends who also work in creative agencies teamed up in 2019, tapping into their networks to build a space that would add color to their after-work lives. Now, only Narin is in charge of Never Normal, but that mission hasn’t changed. Like other creative practitioners, Narin believes that dialogue drives artwork—film, music, photography— and to create dialogue, you need an appropriate space. “Since I rarely have a chance to talk with anyone, I wanted to create a place where people could sit and talk, a place that could help spark new ideas,” Narin says. That desire has been translated into the building’s design. “Unlike my work for my day job, the building is like a blank white canvas, where colors can mingle with one another to create something more profound.” Climbing the four floors of the building, you’ll find a cafe named WaWa, which is usually packed with people representing the city’s rich tapestry of creative identities: underground musicians, film students, photographers. Narin doesn’t just use the space as a way to draw like-minded people together, though. He also uses it to host a variety of creative events. In its early days, the place was also known as a meeting spot for fans of Jumpol “Off” Adulkittikorn, a former co-founder and rising actor from Grammy. As it gained its footing, its mission gradually shifted towards the arts. DJ talks, chef’s tables, kava ceremonies, coffeetasting sessions, film screenings led by the founders of the Bangkok Screening Room—“They’re all over the place,” Narin says of the events they’ve hosted.
This diverse line-up has attracted equally diverse crowds. That has helped Never Normal form a broader community that Narin says has expanded the scope of knowledge exchange. “It’s like my university days,” Narin explains, recalling memories of his time studying film at Bangkok University. “Like how seniors were willing to lend very expensive cameras to a newbie like me—I want to provide others with the same experience.” Within the past two years, Never Normal has formed bonds with several performing artists and DJs. Now, Narin is planning to turn Never Normal into a production house and make use of his experience in media to push artists’ work online. Noticing that the scarcity of chances that onsite events can be hosted again, Narin is currently collaborating with people from Kantana Sound Studio to help bring some of their offline experiences online, too. Though current regulations make the place feel less crowded than in the past, Never Normal has hopped on the rising trend of skateboarding with a small private skate park. Dubbed Never Wave, the skate park draws experienced and young surfers alike. It also keeps the community buzzing, drawing energy to Lad Phrao, giving locals more to do in their own backyard. Like other casual connections that his space has nurtured over the years, Narin believes that Never Normal could help people who are struggling to develop their portfolios or find new opportunities in this shaken up world. Currently, the space is being used by s-sport players who need better bandwidth for gaming. In the future, it could host underground techno nights, coffee-cupping sessions, or workshops again. Narin’s reason for founding Never Normal may have come from a personal desire, but within the last two years, his personal endeavors and his network have expanded, and he’s been able to have a larger impact on the city’s creative communities. Through his work, he’s hoping emerging artists won’t have to wander alone to find their own way out of the dark.
the last word | the high life
Highland’s leader on cannabis, connections, and cultivation Three years ago, BK interviewed the team behind Highland, a project advocating for the legalization of marijuana. Since then, they’ve opened a cafe in Lad Phrao, got involved with legal cannabis as a community enterprise, and continued to push for further liberalization of the market. We reconnected with Highland’s Rattapon “Guide” Sanrak to brush up on the current situation with cannabis. By Porpor Leelasestaporn
W
hat progress has been made since we last spoke to Highland? The momentum is building. People can now use marijuana for medical purposes, although its use is limited by government control. Cannabis oil [cannabidiol, or CBD], for example, isn’t readily accessible. You have to get permission to use it from hospitals, and according to current regulations, hospitals only allow it to be used to treat four major diseases: chemotherapy-induced nausea, multiple sclerosis (MS), demyelinating disease, and epilepsy. Is it harder for normal people (i.e., those without connections) to obtain legal permission to grow it? Forming a community enterprise means you need to cooperate with the government. Generally, people like us who don’t have connections with the government or large hospitals find it extremely difficult to get the license to grow marijuana. The other sticking point is that a community enterprise can’t really sell marijuana. Before the government legalized selling cannabis leaves, community enterprises were almost like charities, where they dedicated their produce to medical research for free. Now, even if you are allowed to sell the leaves, you need to grow it on a large scale to make ends meet. Will the cannabis industry be monopolized, like so many other industries in Thailand have been? It’s more than obvious that it will be monopolized by the big players. Right now, [legal cannabis] is still controversial, which explains the tight rules and restrictions in place. I’m not sure if this is intentional or not, but the current regulations only facilitate certain groups while shunning others. It isn’t that you can kickstart a weed plantation with passion or knowledge alone. You really need to have connections to do that.
Cannabis is legal for medical use and you can grow it. So why are people still getting arrested? Since you’re not allowed to sell the bud or flower as a community enterprise, people have gone underground to sell it. Currently, there are two markets for that. First we have those that grow it for medicinal purposes (think cannabis oil). The other is for recreation, where people can sell 1kg of weed for around B300-400,000, although it’s illegal. In this economic downturn, it’s understandable that people will risk growing it even if the chances of getting arrested are high. Do you think Thailand will ever legalize recreational marijuana? It might happen sooner than you think. When I started the Highland project in 2013, most people thought legalized cannabis or medical marijuana in Thailand were non-starters. But it’s a global megatrend now. There’s also growing demand from the public. Two years ago, when the [member of the ruling coalition] Bhumjaithai Party proposed legalizing medical marijuana, public interest boomed. If someone were to propose something even more progressive with the right timing, it’s not too far-fetched to imagine it happening. Plus, the government is probably running out of new sources for tax revenues, so marijuana could compensate for that. Thailand isn’t friendly to the alcohol industry. What makes you think it will support marijuana? In Thailand, alcoholic drinks are opposed by two major groups: the older generations who believe it to be inherently evil and religious organizations, which I think hold large authority here. But marijuana holds a unique position in the public debate. In the past, older people were generally against it. Since information regarding its medical properties became more readily available, they’ve realized that the drug is not as harmful as they thought. My family used to oppose it, but now they’re asking me for cannabis oil. Some temples not only encourage the use of CBD, they even provide it for free. Since it can be used for healing and is not against their religious teachings, many temples actually endorse the use of marijuana as well. Marijuana has become part of the greater democracy movement. Why is that? It’s quite similar to the craft beer and LGBTQ+ rights movements in Thailand. There’s an intersection of interests that people share: freedom and rights. We believe it’s your right to access marijuana just like any other medicine. It’s no more dangerous than tobacco or alcohol. Smoking weed [either for medicinal or recreational purposes] should not be a crime. What does the future hold for Highland Cafe? Although our cafe in Lad Phrao is currently closed, we are planning to launch our new projects like Highland Farm where we will grow hemp for CBD products. We also planned to host the Marijuana Expo this year, but it’s unlikely that we’ll be able to do that. Good news is we are developing a series of instructional courses for anyone who’s planning to grow marijuana and hemp. We hope that it will foster awareness and equip you with the right knowledge to profit in the future.
Sunshine Court
Kannikar Court
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2020
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