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BK MAGAZINE NO. 673 FRIDAY, JANUARY 13, 2017. www.bkmagazine.com
2017’s hottest travel destinations
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JANUARY 6, 2017
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page 3 What We’ve Learned
5 cover story
Great Escapes
4 upfront
8 escapes
Life in Poetry
Travel Tales
10 avenue
14 bites
Green Power
Feeling Saucy
15 blends
19 BK Now
Super Sake
Plan Your Week
Who's in charge? Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Editor in Chief / Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat Staff Writers Natcha Sanguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Junior Writers Theerada Moonsiri, Earn Saenmuk, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Kulthida Srino Deputy Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designers Chantich Kongchanmitkul, Peeraya Sirathanisa Content Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Junior Graphic Designer Waratchaya Boonket Photographer Chissanupong Narmmoolnark
Where to find us!
The Asia City Media Group
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Marketing Manager Pymporn Pinkaew Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Nutnicha Nuttanakorn Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Administrator Yaovaluck Srisermsri Accountant Manita Bangmoung
Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
Contributor Kathy MacLeod Interns Alisha Pawa, Avash Shrestha, Kuang Ye Marn, Haroon Ahmad Cover photo by Destination Canada
Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07-02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 Email: contact@asia-city.com.sg
A checklist of BK Magazine’s most important discoveries this week Joan Cornella is having a solo exhibition in Bangkok In what’s looming as one of the biggest art events of the year, the Spanish cartoonist—a bonafide web celeb for his black humor-laced, six-panel comic strips touching on taboo, from cannibalism to suicide—will show his works at Future Factory from Mar 10-26. Entry is B200. Clinton Street Baking Company is open, but there are holes in the menu The 15-year-old Manhattan-hailing diner known for its allday breakfast has arrived at Siam Paragon. Here, you’ll find the best-selling buttermilk pancakes—which the likes of New York Magazine and Lonely Planet have hailed as the best in New York—though fingers crossed the decadent brownies are available soon, too. Burger and Lobster is coming to town Move over Jamie’s Italian, another big London-born restaurant chain is opening in Bangkok. Now boasting some 20 branches worldwide, Burger & Lobster sticks to the simple yet decadent premise of burgers, lobsters and lobster rolls. Set to open in March on the ground floor of Ratchaprasong’s high-end Gaysorn Plaza, where a big sign is already on display. Phuket is getting a rebrand Taxi mafias and girlie bars haven’t been kind to the Pearl of the Andaman’s image. That’s why the TAT has decided to give it a shiny new one courtesy of a hip creative agency. Will they remove more illegal hotels? Create new beaches? Give us back deck chairs? Stay tuned to the 6th Thailand Travel Forum at Bangkok’s InterContinental Hotel this Jan 23 to find out. EDM takes a back seat this month Escape the club beats and check out some live classical music courtesy of the Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra at Concert in the Park (taking place every Sunday at Lumphini Park), where you’ll find picnics, smuggled alcohol and a moderate chance of rain. Alternatively, grab your tickets for the Thailand International Jazz Conference, which features over 60 international and local jazz musicians performing across three days on Jan 27-29 (www.tijc.net).
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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@bkmagazine BK Magazine Friday, January 13, 2017
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upfront
clkao
HOT OR NOT
Hot: Nature
Not: Replica Villages
Steven Depolo (via Flickr)
We’ve got beautiful lakes, mountaintops and rivers for you to explore in our roundup of 2017’s hottest destinations (see page 5). Sadly, we must also report that the trend for faux-vintage malls is still going strong. Enough already!
Hot: Sake imports
Not: Sriracha imports
Outside American expats, the news that someone’s decided to import California’s Huy Fong Sriracha sauce to Thailand has been met with an almighty “meh” tinged with hostility. One Facebook commenter likened it to selling ice cubes to eskimos. See how it compares with our homegrown hot sauces on page 14. Back to things we actually need imported here, we’re enamored with the wall-to-wall sake selection at Orihara Shoten, a new bar with the best range of Japanese booze in town (see page 15).
Hot: Drugs
Not: Democracy
Growing hemp for medical purposes is now legal in six provinces. (Don’t get too excited, with a THC limit of one percent, it’s going to take a lot to give you a buzz.) Justice Minister Suwaphan Tanyuvardhana is also pressing for a new approach to drug addiction: more support, less repression. Given that there won’t be elections in 2017 after all, getting high seems like a very reasonable alternative to democracy.
Hot: Roads
Not: Seas
It took a disaster of monumental proportions to make it happen, but the Land Transport Department just announced an accelerated plan to phase out passenger vans between Bangkok and the provinces within the next six months, down from the original six-year plan. Those speeding death traps will be replaced with new 20-seat “micro-buses,” which may mean higher fares, but that’s a small price to pay for safer roads. Meanwhile, the new Pattaya-Hua Hin ferry service was forced to cancel its inaugural trip due to rough seas, amid ongoing conjecture that the boat isn’t entirely sea-safe.
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INTERVIEW Having worked as a construction laborer, insurance surveyor and batik painter, writerslash-poet Krirksit Palamart, 44, has just been announced as the latest recipient of Thailand’s S.E.A. Write Award for his poetry collection Nakhon Khon Nok (Outsider Town), published under his alias Palang Piangpirun. BK chats to him about his life journey and how sorrow makes for great subject matter. What drew you into the world of poetry? When I was 25, I was confused and struggling to find myself. I had huge doubts about the meaning of life. I was born in Bangkok but ran away to stay with my aunt in Kalasin, then came back to study in Bangkok before moving to Phuket to work as an insurance surveyor. I’ve worked many jobs, including construction worker while I was studying in vocational school. I walked into a bookshop one day and found a poetry book called Dramas on a Broad Esplanade [by Komtuan Kantanu]. I’d never read poetry before and it really crushed me. I was no longer resigned to life offering nothing new. I realized routine work wasn’t the answer. I started devouring all the poetry books I could buy. So when did you start writing? After starting work in a copy shop I started writing some poems and short stories. Then the owner introduced me to Phuket’s writer community, which helped me dive deeper into the world of writing. I did nothing but write. It was crazy.
But I finally released my first poetry book, Asom Phrachan [The Moon Hermitage], in 2004. Since then I’ve also put out a short novel, Phu Kum Chata [Destiny Decider, 2010], which I wrote when I left Phuket to take care of my mom who fell gravely ill. I realized sorrow is a great catalyst for creating work. It’s not something people choose; sometimes things just happen and you need a way to get through the tough time. When my mom got better, I went back to Phuket to work as a batik painter. Tell us about your award-winning poetry book. It came about three years ago when I had to swiftly leave Phuket, my home of 20 years, to stay with my wife in Sakon Nakhon after her father became ill. I came to realize that the place is not as important as forging a connection with the people around you. I could appreciate the value of seeing things from the outside. I also took influence from rap and metal music, which my wife loves. My poetry is kind of a mix between old and new forms of language. I like to think my poetry
gives people encouragement to face life, no matter how difficult or miserable things seem. How do you find inspiration? I always try to put myself into the subject matter. I recently went back and worked as a construction worker again to experience firsthand their struggles. I even monitored how much I sweated while pounding away with a 10-kilogram hammer. I love talking to people while I’m running or cycling, too. I met an uncle who has been a construction worker his whole life. Even in his 60s, he once walked home to Sakon Nakhon from Hua Lamphong train station in Bangkok because he didn’t have money. I was amazed to learn he would walk home along the track and eat things that people dumped from the train along the way. It’s incredible that he could survive this way. What’s next for you? I have a finished novel but I’m still not satisfied with it. I don’t know yet when it will be published. Interview by Monruedee Jansuttipan
by Kathy MacLeod kathymacleod.blogspot.com
BK Magazine Friday, January 13, 2017
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cover story
HoT Tickets Gorgo
This year’s trending destinations, at home and abroad. Start planning now. By Monruedee Jansuttipan
Banff National Park, Canada
Doi Puico, Mae Hong Son
Khao Chang Phuak, Kanchanaburi
Tanyanat Pichitwong
Panita Thiraphapong
Pongsakorn Foto
THAILAND
Songkhla
CHIANG RAI
Kanchanaburi
Forget the crowded peaks of Phu Chi Fah and Phu Chi Dao, Phu Chi Duen is this season’s hottest destination for sunset-seekers. Located in Viang Kaen, the peak was officially opened to the public on Dec 4 and is just an hour’s trek from Phu Chi Dao. Other new provincial highlights include the 295-meter-long walkway Doi Tung Tree Top Walk inside the Mae Fah Luang Garden and Wat Rong Sua Ten, a colorful counterpart to the white Wat Rong Khun. Good news for luxe travelers, Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle (053-910-200, www.fourseasons.com/goldentriangle) has also unveiled a new “Explorer's Lodge,” a safari-style abode with two bedrooms, spacious deck and outdoor pool surrounded by dense jungle. Prices start from B172,000.
After closing for almost a year, Khao Chang Phuak has reopened to challenge trekkers with its knife-edge ridge walk. Something perhaps a bit easier is the 1,000-meter-high Noen Chang Suek, a 360-degree viewpoint that is easily reached by car. If the sky is especially clear, you can see beyond Myanmar to the Andaman Sea. Another upcoming attraction is Malika R.E.124 The Siamese Living Heritage Town (www.fb.com/MallikaR.E.124), a newly-built village that depicts the ordinary lives of people in the King Rama V period after the abolition of slavery. You’ll find people dressed the part and selling items specific to that era. Meanwhile in Sangkhlaburi district, you can visit the newly discovered Nopphiboon Waterfall (034 -511200, TAT Kanchanburi).
Mae Hong Son
Songkhla
Mae Hong Son continues to offer new highaltitude attractions, with the latest being the wooden walkway on Doi Puico, which has caused a flurry on social media. The recent discovery of cryptotora thamicola, a blind, waterfall-climbing fish, at Tham Lot cave proves the province hides plenty more secrets, too. The fish, which boasts similar skeletal features to those that enabled our ancestors to walk, is being seen as a stunning example of evolution. Meanwhile, at backpacker-utopia Pai, new attractions include a craft beer bar and a “secret hot spring”—read our full story at goo. gl/YMUfyP.
Long overshadowed by Hat Yai, the provincial capital is finally finding a niche among traveling art lovers. From its humble beginnings on Nang Ngam Road, the street art scene has now taken over nearby Nakhon Nok and Nakhon Nai roads, too, as part of a project themed “Songkhla Maha Sanook” (Songkhla great fun). Fifteen newly finished murals depict local ways of life, from the making of budu (a signature Southern fish sauce) to examples of racial tolerance. Another example of the burgeoning youth culture is the recently held Swing Dance at Sunset event at Hub Ho Hin, a red wooden house that was once a rice mill but now serves as a work center for the Songkhla Heritage Society (www.fb.com/songkhla.asia). The main Songkhla Central Mosque is another spot to visit for its beautiful modernist architecture.
TAT Udon Thani
Bueng Kan
Hin Sam Wan, Buen Kan
Thailand’s youngest province keeps enticing visitors with its natural wonders. This year’s top attraction is a red lotus pond in Nong Loeng district that’s being touted as a new alternative to the famous pond in Udon Thani. Also high on any visitor’s checklist should be the many great spots to take stock of the Mekong River, including one in Pak Kad district where a rare bend in the river makes for a unique sunset. Old attractions like Phu Thok and the ancient Hin Sam Wan rocks in Phu Singh Forest Park are as charming as ever.
BK Magazine Friday, January 13, 2017
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cover story
TAT Hat Yai
Phuket
Talaynoi, Phatthalung
Fine dining on the Pearl of the Andaman isn’t just for tourists anymore thanks to a slew of big openings in Phuket in the past few months. These include Trisara’s new farm-to-table restaurant, Pru (trisara.com), fancy Japanese restaurant Zuma’s pop-up at Anantara Layan Phuket (phuket-layan. anantara.com) that runs until February, and Esenzi (www.esenzirestaurant.com), a seafood restaurant led by Tim Butler of Eat Me, Bangkok (No.23 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, No.7 in BK's Top Tables 2016), at Iniala Beach House. More highly-anticipated arrivals include Bampot (bampot.co), a modern European restaurant led by Scottish chef Jamie Wakeford who previously won “The Scottish Food Scholarship” judged by all of Scotland’s Michelin-starred chefs, and Rustic Eatery & Bar, headed by Nikola Lesar, winner of Croatia’s version of Masterchef.
Esenzi, Phuket
fb.com/unseen.noenmaprang
PhatThalung
Noen Maprang, Phitsanulok
Neighboring Songkhla, this Southern province is accruing a following among photographers thanks to the Talay Noi wetlands. Home to the world’s largest waterfall, Talay Noi isn’t just Thailand’s first wildlife sanctuary but also one of 2,000 global wetland areas listed by the international Ram-
sar Convention as being of extreme importance. The sanctuary sees more than 200 bird species migrate to the area from as far off as Siberia during December to April. The province is also a famous spot to catch the red lotus in bloom from February till April. If you’re looking to take a lengthy break, The Wetland Camp (086-953-9914, www. fb.com/wetlandcamp) offers safari-like rooms with picturesque views of wildlife from B2,000/night.
Phitsanulok This central province is gaining a reputation for its stunning mountainous scenery. Popular among young travelers is Noen Maprang, a small district hugged by towering limestone karsts that offer incredible trekking and caving opportunities. At Ban Mung village, you’ll also find a gorgeous sunflower farm, while another prime check-in spot is Khao Pok Lone, where the sunset makes the two-kilometer trek more than worth it. Just as photogenic is Phu Lomlo, a hill inside Phuhin Rongkla National Park that turns pink when the nang phaya seua krong flowers, aka Thai sakura, are in full bloom. January is the month to catch this spectacle.
Vietnam
South Korea
There's a convenient new way to scale the "Roof of Indochina." Lao Cai, the mountainous province in Northern Vietnam that’s home to eco-tourism hot spot Sa Pa, has just welcomed the world’s longest three-rope cable car system. Measuring 6,282 meters, the cable from Muong Hoa Valley will help you conquer the 3,143-meter peak of Fansipan Mountain in just 15 minutes. The base is also home to a faux-European complex called Ga Di Trap Trio that consists of shops, restaurants and cafes. We’re also seeing more and more direct flights making travel easier. Aside from Bangkok Airways’ (www.bangkokair.com) direct routes to Danang in central Vietnam (from B9,300), you can also get cheap flights via Vietjetair (www. vietjetair.com) to the likes of northern port city Haiphong (from B2,865), home to quaint colonial buildings and a vibrant coffee culture, and also considered the gateway to the magical Halong Bay. Meanwhile down south, Six Senses Ninh Van Bay (goo.gl/EYx0sC) just unveiled its gorgeous, newly renovated beachfront pool villas, too.
After the opening of the much-hyped, Zaha Hadid-designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza in 2015, Seoul has really firmed up as a destination for fashionistas and the art-savvy. Held annually in late March-early April (this year is Mar 27-Apr 1), Seoul Fashion Week (www.seoulfashionweek. org) is now established as a real highlight on the global fashion circuit. Another top reason to head here is the opening of Skygarden, Seoul’s version of New York’s High Line Park, which has transformed an abandoned elevated highway into a gorgeous park with a design courtesy of MVRDV.
aruang
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Myanmar's Andaman Sea is buzzing right now for its relatively untouched beaches and well-preserved underwater scenes. If you’re daydreaming about sailing off to explore the stunning Mergui archipelago, do it now before it’s too crowded. The government’s just given the go-ahead for tour operators to launch daily visits. One of the best on offer right now comes from Love Andaman (076-390 -250, www. fb.com/loveandaman), who provide snorkeling opportunities at three islands at B3,500. See more at goo.gl/YwrUJp.
Laos This UNESCO World Heritage-listed town of Luang Prabang is on radars once more after AirAsia launched cheap direct flights from Bangkok (from B5,649 return). Adding to the delightful old-world charm, Laos’ ancient capital has just welcomed the 25-hectare Pha Tad Ke (www.pha-tad-ke. com) botanical gardens—the first-of-its-kind for the nation, which acts as a regional research center and living museum for Laos’ native flora. Check in at Sofitel Luang Prabang (www.sofitel.com), a recent rebranding of the beautiful Hotel de la Paix.
Myanmar
National Museum of Singapore
Bhutan Bhutan and Thailand’s close ties were on show last year when King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck became the first head of state to visit Thailand to pay his respects to our late King Bhumibol. Now that the UN has announced 2017 as International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development, all eyes have turned to Bhutan, which has long been a leader in the industry underpinned by its Gross National Happiness Index. On Dec 17, Bhutan will also celebrate 110 years since its formation. clkao
With the arrival of the Michelin guide, which includes more than 200 restaurants, and street food hawkers, there’s never been a more enticing reason to eat your way around the island. Street-level names to check out include Tai Hwa Pork Noodles and Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle—now the cheapest Michelin-starred experience on earth. Another reason to head back is the National Museum of Singapore’s (nationalmuseum. sg) trippy new art piece, Story of the Forest, where indigenous flora and fauna populate 360-degree screens on the dome’s 15-meterhigh and 170-meter-long walls.
Bhutan
Myanmar’s Andaman Islands
Love Andaman
Singapore
Göran Höglund (Kartläsarn)
REGIONAL
Fansipan, Vietnam
BK Magazine Friday, January 13, 2017
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cover story Malta
Oman
This Mediterranean nation is on the wishlist of travelers thanks largely to the Game of Thrones TV series, which made the most of its stunning geography. The country is packed full of historical charm, including three World Heritage sites. Also set to open this year is a new property for Iniala, the luxury design hotel in Phang Nga, complete with a second branch of Esenzi, the newly launched seafood restaurant of Tim Butler (see page 6) on the rooftop.
Another Middle Eastern country looming as a popular destination due to its natural abundance—rugged mountains, pristine coasts and everything in between. The country is also not shy of luxurious accommodation, including the newest branches of Thailand’s Anantara brand, Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort (jabal-akhdar.anantara.com) and Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara (salalah. anantara.com). The futuristic Majarat Oman theme park will also debut in 2017. Shame that AirAsia has already closed its recently launched route between Bangkok and Muscat, but you can still get there via direct flights from Oman Air (www.omanair.com) starting from B21,800.
Newly launched direct flights by Thai Airways (from B16,440) and AirAsia (from B10,930) from Bangkok to Tehran have caused a wave of Thai travelers to this Middle Eastern country. Iran has been picked by Lonely Planet , Forbes and Insider as one of the year’s top destinations for its rich history and culture, plentiful UNESCO World Heritage Sites and incredible Islamic architecture. Read about our recent trip at goo.gl/H5BOJa.
Finland Iceland is so 2016. If hunting the Northern Lights is still high on your to-do list, Finland is the place to do it. The awe-inspiring light show is visible around 200 days a year here. Check-in to Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort (www.kakslauttanen.fi) for a glass-domed room where you can watch the aurora from the warmth of your bed. What’s more, the country is packed with more than 40 national parks and the country is this year celebrating 100 years of independence. Check www.visitfinland.com for more hot reasons to head there this year.
Anantara
Iran
Finland
Tehran, Iran
Al Baleed, Oman
Mstyslav Chernov
The world’s second-largest country is celebrating 150 years since confederation by giving free admission to all national parks, including the iconic Banff National Park in Alberta, which opened in 1885. There will be celebrations throughout the year (check the calendar at goo.gl/9s59yX), including mass events across the country on July 1.
Dharath Hoonchamlong
Canada
Roger Chi
INTERNATIONAL
Malta
5 new places to go glamping around Thailand this winter
CHIANG MAI
PRACHIN BURI
CHANTHABURI
KANCHANABURI
SAMUI
Based in Mae Rim, Camp Chiang Mai (093-996-9992, www.fb.com/ ISGroupThailand) looks like a Pinterest fantasy sprung to life. An architect couple transformed a rice field situated near Mae Sa Waterfall into a tent ground filled with billowing sheets and dangling bulbs. There are 40 fancy tents with proper beds available, starting from B1,550 for a double or twin tent (two people) and B1,950 for a family tent (three people). This price includes a barbecue pork set dinner and Thai breakfast, while come nightfall they offer hot bathtubs. The more adventurous Flying Camp package (B4,999 for two people, B6,999 for three people) includes use of the zipline at the nearby Flying Squirrels (www.treetopflight.com) along with other activities.
Another quaint new camping destination is Rustic Camping (081-3432786, goo.gl/J4pbpg) in the Kabinburi district of Prachin Buri, best known as the home of whitewater rafting spot Kaeng Hin Perng. For B1,800/person/night, guests get a tiny tent for the night along with a dinner buffet with freeflow draught beer from 6-10pm. Imported beers are all B220. Also included is use of their zipline service at Saksupa Resort, while you can pay more to use the paintball, BB gun and ATV facilities.
Good Old Days (www.fb.com/ goodolddays1990) is a pop-up winter camp running weekends only till the end of February. It’s founded by concert creative director Ekalak Intarapasit, who is behind the Good Old Days Live concert series (the latest of which featured Polycat), and features small concerts in front of the campfire every Friday and Saturday nights, followed by ‘90s-heavy DJ sets. Located near Khao Soi Dao, the camp offers only 40 tents with regular tents going for B1,950 per person for one night or B3,900 for two nights. Premium tents come with better views, one bottle of red wine each night and two tickets for the next Good Old Days Live concert later this year—B2,450 per person for one night or B4,900 for two nights. Those prices include breakfast and dinner, including local delicacies such as moo chamuang (stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves).
3199' Mountain Camp (www. fb.com/3199MountainCamp) stay open until Mar 12. Their bohemian tents are available in various deals: the Sweet package (B1,200/two persons), Boho package (B1,600/two-three persons) and Gypsy package (B3,600/foursix persons). These prices include dinner, a barbecue set, soft drinks and breakfast. On the same property you'll also find a melon farm, cafe and live music corner playing folk songs. The camp is located 30 minutes from the town center of Kanchanaburi.
Situated on Maenam Beach on the island’s north coast, the boutique pool villas of Khwan Beach Resort (www.khwanbeachresort.com) has just welcomed a new collection of luxury tents with a special opening rate of B6,930 (from Jan 23), nearly half the full rate of B12,900. The tents have mod-cons like air-con despite their 19th-century expedition vibe—think four-poster king beds, oil lamps, vintage wooden chairs, leather trunks and daybeds. The location is close to the weekly walking street on Maenam Road and famous island food staples like Ko Seng, Kanomjeen Pa Maitree and even the posh Woo Bar at the east-end of the beach.
BK Magazine Friday, January 13, 2017
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escapes ESCAPE ROUTES By Monruedee Jansuttipan
CHIANG MAI
Lala Land
Chiang Mai’s earthiest music gathering, Shambhala in Your Heart Festival (www.fb. com/shambhalafestival), returns for the ninth time this Feb 9-18 at Chiang Dao Youth Camp. A predecessor of sorts to Wonderfruit festival, the event promises a whopping nine days of environmentally-friendly activities like tie-dye, yoga and even trash-management workshops. Tickets for Thais are B100 for a one-day pass or B500 for nine days, while foreigners are B200/B1,000. The price includes a spot at the camping site or in the dormitory. All profits will go towards community improvements around the Chiang Dao district. The music lineup isn’t out yet—expect acoustic guitar-wielding musicians from Chiang Mai and surrounding areas.
KHAOYAI
Flowery Tribute Dasada Gallery’s (061-404-500, www.fb.com/dasadaflower) annual flower festival in the glasshouse runs through Feb 19. Spread across five zones, this year’s spectacle pays tribute to the late HM King Bhumibol. You’ll see intricate flower arrangements interspersed with pictures of the king, a 3D mapping show and even a fountain that dances in sync with the king’s musical compositions. Entrance costs B100 for adults and B70 for children.
PHANG NGA
Sleep Club The luxurious Akaryn hotel group just unveiled Akyra Beach Club Phuket (076-592500, www.theakyra.com/ phuket) on Phang Nga’s Natai Beach. Just a 20-minute drive from Phuket International Airport, the Andaman-facing hotel goes with a deep blue theme for its 42 rooms and 17 villas, the highlight of which is the 125-sq-meter beachfront two-bedroom villa with oversized king beds. The decor features plenty of Sino-Portuguese patterned flourishes on everything from the floor tiles to the cushions, matched with dark wooden furniture. Rates start from B6,267 for a deluxe suite.
Now Hiring
CAMBODIA
• SALES ASSOCIATE • SENIOR DEVELOPER • IT ADMIN • BRANDED CONTENT WRITER • JUNIOR WRITER • GRAPHIC DESIGNER • DIGITAL GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Encore Angkor After four months of renovation, Belmond La Residence d’Angkor in Siem Reap has finally unveiled its new look. Inspired by local crafts, the 59 rooms and suites are spruced up with handwoven jewel-coloured silks, traditionally crafted hardwood furnishings and detailed ironmongery. The renovation extends to the property’s restaurants: Spice Circle, which serves traditional Cambodian and Khmer cuisine, and Ember, whose open kitchen does pizza plus Asian-Latin fusion. You can also start your night at Martini Lounge before heading out for the vivid nightlife scene on Siam Reap's Pub Street. Room rates range from $US235 (B8,417) for a junior suite to $US475 (B15,197) for a deluxe one-bedroom poolside suite.
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BK Magazine Friday, January 13, 2017
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covers the hottest new openings in Bangkok, Hua Hin, Phuket, Koh Samui, Krabi and Chiang Mai. Get your free copy today at bkmagazine.com/hotspots2016.
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avenue SHOPPING
Cool Shades Luxury eyewear manufacture Mykita joins hands with French luxury fashion house Maison Margiela to launch their latest collaborative sunglasses that are at once simple yet sophisticated. Using unconventional materials such as pinewood and raw stainless steel, the new models offer a range of avant-garde shapes. Our pick is the MMTRANSFER003 with its bold round frame and rose gold/light gray colorway giving the natural pinewood grain an urban edge. Prices start at B26,000. Available at luxury glasses stores nationwide. Try Niche Nation, 2/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5825. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.nichenation.com
FITNESS
NEW STORE
FASHION
Touch Base
Run for It
Kind of Blue
Conditional-training-focused gym Base Bangkok just launched a new group training class called Baseline. The sessions run monthly, offering fitness and body composition assessment using an InBody machine and eight-step strength and cardio activities. Results are then assessed by coaches, detailing the strengths and weaknesses of your current exercise regime and pointing out areas you need to improve on. Baseline is free for Base first-timers or B750 for a drop-in class. You can also opt for a private Baseline session with a coach at B2,400. The next sessions this month are on Jan 14-16. 772/208 Noble Remix, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-160-6065. Open Mon-Thu 6:30am-9pm; Fri 6:30am-7pm; Sat 8am-5pm; Sun 10am-5pm. BTS Thong Lo. www.basebangkok.com
Bangkok has a new full-service running store. Located at Central Pinklao, Rev Runnr offers a variety of products and services for runners of all levels. You can get new running gear picked out especially for you by using posture analysis tools like the RunTime treadmill, which measures the various pressure points from the way you run. After the analysis, professional coaches can help point you to the type of running shoes suitable for your way of running to minimize accidents and injury. Take your pick of shoes and sportswear from major brands like Under Armour, Asics and Sof Sole. You can even get insoles tailor-made for you. 2/F, Central Pinklao, Borommaratchachonnani Rd., 062-448-7874. Open daily 10am-10pm
Thailand’s indigo fashion trend is still strong with a sleek new addition to the market, Blue Nails. Every piece of clothing is hand-dyed with only natural colors and strictly no chemicals. Unlike many other indigo brands, the style is modern and functional for a city lifestyle. Items range from smart-looking T-shirts, button-up shirts and jackets through to smaller accessories like ties and hats. While we’re still enjoying a hint of winter breeze, you can check out Blue Nails’ winter collection for some cool cardigans, long-sleeve tops and beanies. Prices start at around B3,000 for a tie. Available at Another Story (3/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd.) and Siam Discovery (1/F, Rama 1 Rd.). www.fb.com/bluenailsco
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avenue 5-piece cord hangers fade in green, Hay, B645
HOME
Going Green
Crystal Forest terrarium, Tiny Tree Garden, B2,780
Green is the new trending color of 2017. Add it to your home with these simple decor items. By Earn Saenmuk
Take Table Lamp in green, Kartell, B6,000
Triangle clock, Everyday Studio, B850
Palissade arm chair, Hay, B11,000
3-seat corner sofa with bed in Hillared green, Vallentuna, Ikea, B46,700
Green island fig, Bonson Bonsai, B8,500
Kilo coffee table made from metal and solid oak, Habitat, B2,460
Ikea
Ice printed cushion, Wrong for Hay, B2,750
Essentials
“Chair” cushion cover, This Mean That, B495
Bonson Bonsai. G/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 094-452-6241. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong. www. fb.com/bonsonbonsai Cushion cover, Vigdis, B299
Macaron Ottoman, Filobula, B6,500
Alltag Everyday Studio available at Room Factory, 4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5644. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.fb.com/everydaystudio.furniture Filobula available at Fat Cat Decor, 555/5 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 099-421-5553. Open daily 11am-8pm. www.fb.com/Filobula
Bobble bathmat, Habitat, B1,150
Monochrome plates and bowls, Mo Jirachaisakul, B1,850-2,550
Habitat. 3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0505. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam/National Stadium. www.habitatthailand.com
Kartell available at DM Home, 555 Thonglor Soi 19, 02-365-0789-93. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.dm-home.com Hay and Wrong for Hay. 3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 090-915-9788. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam/National Stadium. www.hay.dk Gurli, Vallentuna and Vigdis available at Ikea, 38 Moo 6 Bangna-Trad Rd. (k.m. 8), 02-708 7983. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.ikea.co.th Mo Jirachaisakul, This Mean That and Tiny Tree Garden available at Object of Design Store (O.D.S), 3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam/National Stadium. www.fb.com/ objectsofdesirestore
Multi-label Stores to Shop for Home Decor
GOOD DESIGN STORE
ANYROOM
ANOTHER STORY
Decked out in cool tones of white and gray, the space looks as much like an art gallery as it does a shop. The selection comes mostly from Japanese designers, ranging from iconic pieces from 1960s to fresh creations by young-blood designers. G Markawarded Thai design joins the space, too.
Run by Bangkok’s top architect, Duangrit Bunnag, this furniture showroom opened as part of his creative empire The Jam Factory. Inside you’ll find his home brand as well as a corner for other Thai designers like Alltag and Thinkk Studio. About 30 percent of the pieces are home decor, with an emphasis on crafty and industrial pieces.
This concept store gathers designer products from all over the world, from international tech, fashion and design brands, to Thai stationery names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) and cute home decor pieces like Plural Design, PDM Brand and Karv Design. The huge space also has some to-die-for food from big names like Jean Yves Bordier, Issaya Siamese Club and Amantee.
41/4 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0955. Open daily 11am-8pm. www. anyroom.com
4/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS Phrom Phong
4/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5686. Open daily 10am10pm. www.fb.com/gooddesignstorebkk
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RESTAURANT
Little Gem Tucked in a shop-house off Charoenkrung Road, Little Market is stylishly decked out with vintage collectibles and a colorful paint job thanks to one of the owners, Thomas Menard of Speedy Grandma and Soy Sauce Factory fame. Here, he partners with photographer Jason Lang and chef Chet Adkins, who formerly headed the kitchen at Ku De Ta (now Ce La Vi) both in Bangkok and Hong Kong. This humble diner is small in size yet huge in personality, specializing in Western breakfast and burgers. Drop by for a breakfast plate of eggs, bacon, potatoes, tomatoes and mushrooms (B180), muesli (B120) and pancakes (B120) with housemade pineapple compote and bael fruit syrup. Another highlight is the yummy steak burger (B180), made with minced 270-day grain-fed Australian black Angus beef, smashed for a crispy crust, and a bun from Charoenkrung's legendary Panlee bakery. Coffee starts from friendly B40 with beans from Chiang Mai. 1056 Charoenkrung Soi 28, 061-558-7689
RESTAURANT
NEW MENU
CAFE
Gallic Charm
Crazy Kebabs
Crackin’ Good
Sukhumvit Soi 39's crepe house has branched out to Siam Paragon, bringing not just sweet and savory crepes but also other French comfort food to match its Parisien apartment decor. At La Creperie you'll find the likes of escargot (garlic-butter snails, B450), tuna steak served with ratatouille and sweet potato chips (B390) and chicken pie (B240) as well as grilled sole fish in brown butter (B490) and chicken basquaise (B270). Of course, the much-loved varieties of buckwheat savory crepes (from B190) and their sister sweet crepes (from B140) also star. Wash your meal down the French way with apple cider (from B290) or sip some affordable wine (from B250). G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 085-195-1045. BTS Siam
Since arriving in Bangkok two years ago, trusted Indian chain The Great Kabab Factory has forged a reliable reputation for its all-you-can-eat set menus. Now it's venturing into a la carte territory with a menu of kebabs that show off creative presentations. Chef Mahesh Thapa rolls out the likes of the atta chicken (B550), a marinated half chicken on the bone which is baked in a dough case, the char mirch ka salmon tikka (salmon chunks, marinated in four chilies, B500) served on scallop shells with pebbles and other seashells, and the haryali phool-e-gulistan (cheese and cream-marinated broccoli, B290), served skewered in a pot with coal. The menu also spans curries (from B280), biryani (from B290) and desserts. L/F, Majestic Grande Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-262-2999
The crisp-yet-soft waffles at Crack make navigating the maze that is Sukhumvit Soi 49 all worth it. At this cute, pastel-hued cafe designed by Party/Space/Design, the perfect rectangle-shaped Brussels-style waffles take center stage—though they don't come cheap. Don’t underestimate the plain looks of the signature Brussels Crack waffle (B290), served with a scoop of "pacotized" honey ice cream made in-house. The toasted marshmallow truffle waffle (B290) sees the charcoal waffle enhanced by pecans, truffled honey, fluffy toasted marshmallow and passion fruit ice cream that's hidden inside. There are also savory options, Japanese-style souffle pancakes and coffee. Sukhumvit Soi 49, 085-359-2656
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bites BITES
Hot Stuff
With the arrival of America’s much-hyped Huy Fong Sriracha sauce in Thailand, we put all the main Sriracha supermarket contenders to a blind taste test. By BK Editorial
F D B
G I
A
C
H
E
A
863 (B63/530ml)
Jim Jam (Medium Hot) (B30/350ml) D
RUNNER UP!
Don’t let the look of this thick, deep-red sauce in the beef tomato-inspired bottle fool you. There are no tomatoes evident in the sauce, only an intense hit of chili with a bitter aftertaste that reminds us of Mexican chili sauce or even sambal. It’s very, very hot, too.
Strongly flavored with a slightly gritty texture. The problem with this one is it’s just so salty it all but kills the heat. The verdict: Salty and sour
The verdict: Some like it hot E B
Heinz (B23.75/300ml)
YUCK!
Tastes exactly like what you’d find at KFC. Pale, gloopy, sweet—and anything but hot.
Thai Dancer (B51/450ml)
Huy Fong (B155/266ml)
We detect a different chili. The grainy sauce is hot and punchy, with a lingering heat on your palate and nose. The verdict: Not Sriracha as we know it, but not the worst… if you can stand the heat
Three Mountains (Medium Hot) (B37/285ml) H
This Thai brand makes the greatest effort to mimic the US Sriracha bottle. The sauce’s subtle floral aroma distinguishes it from others. The verdict: A worthy imitator
F
BK PICK!
This sauce ticks all the boxes of how a good Sriracha sauce should look, with its smooth texture and just-right orange color. The flavors are also very well balanced: not too hot but not at all bland. The verdict: Picture (and palate) perfect
The fried chicken dip specialist’s interpretation of Sriracha tastes like ketchup with chili flakes. Yep, there’s a very weird, tomato-like flavor. Nope, it’s not what we want from a Sriracha sauce. The verdict: Stick to the chicken dip
The verdict: Orange syrup
C
Maepranom (B33.50/226ml)
G
Deksomboon (B22.50/350ml)
“It tasted like nam jim kai (fried chicken chili dip),” said one taster. Runny and syrupy just like Heinz but saltier and a bit hotter. The verdict: This Thai-Chinese company makes better soy sauces
Sriraja Panich (Medium Hot) (B22/250ml) I
This vivid orange sauce looks and tastes just like the good ol’ stuff they serve you at most street-food stalls. The medium-hot variety is only mildly spicy, and more on the tangy and sweet side. The verdict: For those who like to play it safe
*Note: All sauces were tasted both neat and on kai jeaw (Thai omelet). For those sauces that come in a range of different spiciness levels, we chose the medium hot variety.
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blends BOOZE NEWS
New Bottles in Bangkok
MELBOURNE GIN COMPANY
The three-year-old Melbourne Gin Company came into being right at peak craft gin madness, but till now the trending spirit hasn’t been available in Bangkok. Grapefruit peel, rosemary hail, honey lemon myrtle and navel orange characterize the citrusy flavor—slightly sweet, very summery—devised by winemaker Andrew Marks (known for Australian label The Wanderer and its Spanish twin El Wanderer). You can find it at Vesper, Il Fumo, Q&A, Teens of Thailand, Bunker, Smalls and Bas Bar. Prices start at B200 for a G&T at Bas Bar.
ON THE BAR
Hot Shots
Ekkamai bar Orihara Shoten might have Bangkok’s best selection of sake. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj The buzz: Ekkamai’s new sake-specializing bar is a collaboration between Japanese sake exporters Orihara and local booze distributors BB&B, so you can rest assured this is the good stuff. The decor: With its wall-to-wall sake selection, cozy blond wood decor and decorative barrels, Orihara Shoten looks like something straight out of Japan. Shattering this illusion somewhat are the glass windows that look out onto next door’s Ekkamai Beer House. A big square-shape bar sits in the center of the room, while a wall of fridges offers a mouthwatering array of bottles. The drinks: The 100-plus-bottle selection of both chilled and hot sake starts from as little as B180 per glass. Two solid entry points include the Yuki
no Bosha Yamahai Junmai (B240/90ml), known for its smoky taste similar to whiskey, and the Kozaemon Junmai Ginjo (B280/90ml), which has a slight sweetness. The bar also serves a range of liqueurs in interesting flavors—try the peach flavor, Yoshino Monogatari Momo (B270/90ml), with soda water for balance. Even more unique is the Returner Earl Grey Tea Liqueur (B290/90ml) which, served with milk, tastes just like an afternoon cup of tea. The food: Bar snacks like Japanese-style potato salad (B140) and salmon jerky (B240) are on offer, or you can seek more sustenance at the adjoining Tori Tama, a Tokyo-hailing yakitori restaurant run by the same people.
CHIVAS MIZUNARA
The music: Easy listening jazz, with the occasional Latin and Japanese songs. All very chill and unobtrusive. The crowd: Japanese salarymen in full suit and tie with a smattering of in-the-know locals and foreigners. Why you should care: Quality sake served by people genuinely passionate about sake—this is not just another Japanese bar in town. 18 Park Lane Sukhumvit Soi 63, 02-382-0131. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Ekkamai
On the back of Johnnie Walker releasing an American whiskey, now Chivas is taking influence from the whiskey culture of Japan, Chivas Mizunara is finished in barrels made from rare Japanese mizunara oak for a flavor which they say adds a spicy depth. After Japan. Thailand is currently the only Asian country to be offered the bottle. Find it per bottle at Morimoto for B6,400 or Hilton Sukhumvit for B2,650. Go figure.
COCKTAILS Where to Taste Drinks Made with Gold BIRRA BALADIN
GOLD FASHIONED AT VOGUE LOUNGE (B380)
MEKHONG HANUMAN AT OSHA THAI (B550)
24K AT THE OWL SOCIETY WHISKEY SALOON (B350)
Chivas Extra Fine, sweet vermouth and licorice bitters, garnished with cherry brandy dusted in gold powder.
Mekhong rum and coconut water, garnished with a gold leaf and served with dry-baked coconut.
6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697. BTS Chong Nonsi
99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555
Johnnie Walker Gold Label, dry vermouth, homemade moonflower-infused gold powder syrup and a dash of soda, garnished with dehydrated moonflowers dusted in gold powder. Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02- 046-3798. BTS Ekkamai
THE KISS AT VESPER (B390)
Johnnie Walker Gold Label with gold powder, Carpano Bianco, Frangelico hazelnut and chocolate bitters, garnished with chocolate ball covered in gold leaf. 10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. BTS Sala Daeng
Made from Italian alpine water, Baladin doesn’t shy from adding extra spices to its beers and can be found in 45 different Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. There are now five different bottles of the stuff available in Bangkok: Isaac (raw wheat, coriander and orange zest), Wayan (made from five cereals and nine spices), Nora (ancient Khorasan Kamut wheat, ginger and citrus), Nazionale (Italian bergamot and coriander) and Rock ‘n’ Roll (a peppery American-hop IPA). Get it at Wish Beer, The Beer Cap, Bottles of Beer and About Eatery. Prices start at B200.
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OPEN DOOR
Arno’s Burgers and Beers A burger spin-off from Bangkok’s most buzzed-about steakhouse. The buzz: After causing a big buzz among beef lovers (and some lengthy queues) at the end of 2015, butcher-slash-eatery Arno’s has branched out with another oh-so-tiny venture, this time all about burgers. The decor: Set on the corner of Narathiwas Soi 18/1, the cubelike brick building is easily spotted by its bold signage and outdoor tables. Inside is a classic diner set-up with both counter and table seating, and an open kitchen where the magic happens. In all, the place barely fits 30 people. The food: Butcher-chef Arnaud Carre takes the same dry-aged local beef he uses at the butcher shop and grinds it fresh every
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day before service. Featuring his own house-made fluffy bun, Carre’s classic American-style burger comes with a juicy 200g patty (B220), which you can up-size to 300g (B330) or make a double (B390). There are also specialties like “The French” (B350), where the patty is mixed with steak tartare condiments right before cooking, and Philadelphia cheesesteak (sliced beef, American cheese, confit onion and bell peppers, B220). Other choices include pork (B220), vegetarian (B280), lobster (B690) and bunless (“steak a cheval” topped with a sunny side-up egg, B190) burgers. You can also sample some steak from Arno’s Eatery here, starting from B400 for a 200g strip loin.
The drinks: It’s all about beer, here. Local names start at B120, while imported choices include Beerlao dark (B120), Vedett (B210) and Duvel (B240), all the way up to Estrella Inedit (B590). Why you should care: Where there’s good beef, you can be sure there are good burgers. While the original Arno’s no longer commands a three-week waiting list, this represents a far safer, though just as delicious, walk-in proposition. Natcha Sanguankiattichai
Narathiwas Soi 15, 02-087-5087. Open daily 11am-10pm
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Lucky Fish
Gokoku
Schnitzel's
NEW AND NOTED
American Home Chef Praween Ngamketkamol draws on his experience in American kitchens to open Schnitzel’s (45 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 093664-0936), which is all about full-flavored comfort food. There’s more to this cozy brick house than the namesake good ol’ deepfried cutlets (B240). They also offer munchies like bacon cheese burger (B260), buffalo wings (B150) and PBBBJ (peanut butter, banana and jelly stuffed in a baguette, B220). Try the mac n’ cheese sandwich (B190), which features pastrami and sauerkraut in between two pieces of deep-fried mac and cheese goodness. Too rich? Order bruschetta (B100) or a salad (from B180) instead.
Go Fish Sitting front and center at 72 Courtyard, in the spot recently vacated by Rocket, Lucky Fish doubles as both cafe and bar, serving Japanese munchies alongside coffee and booze. During the daytime, it rolls out chicken karaage (B220), okonomiyaki
fries (B160), rice balls and maki rolls (from B240), while dinner time sees a greater emphasis on yakitori (grilled meat and veggies, from B60). Drinks are similarly wide-ranging, from hojicha latte (B160) to cocktails with Japanese twists like the Matcha Mojito (B320) and Co.jp Old Fashioned (with dried shiitake mushroom, B360), as well as Japanese beers and sake.
Delicious Daifuku Osaka-hailing dessert brand Gokoku (G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-551-0022) presents its light and fluffy fresh cream whipped from Hokkaido milk. Taste it in the star cream roll (from B165/piece) with soft cake made from France-imported flour or in the fluffy chiffon cube (B165). The real highlight, though, is the heavenly soft daifuku, filled with cream, white bean paste, a layer of cake and your choice of strawberry or melon (B165). You can also get the dessert prettily-plated with fresh fruits and ice cream (from B195). Have it with their special English tea (B105). Natcha Sanguankiattichai
TABLE TALK
Cafe Milano Glasshouse Sindhorn, 130-132 Wireless Rd., 02-6509995. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm Set in the Sindhorn Building’s dramatic glasshouse extension, next to Cafe Parisien, Cafe Milano whips up Italian classics with a stylish presentation befitting the contemporary dining room—elegant leather chairs, red lacquered tables and towering bay windows. Join the office crowds and tuck into slow-cooked porchetta, rigatoni puttanesca or grilled seabass fillet. Exclusively for Citi credit cardmembers. Get 15% discount on food only (Today – 30 Jun 17)
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bites FOOD REVIEWS
Hanazen HHHH Japanese. 42 Ari Soi 5, 02-619-7044. Open TueSun 5:30-11:30pm. BB F
Reach Thousands of Hungry Affluent Diners in BK Magazine’s Top Tables
Forget dingy bar seating and spare lighting, Hanazen is an izakaya done bright and airy, Ari style. The whitewashed, faux crumbling walls, cutesy knickknacks and communal tables could be ripped straight from the “How to Open a Cafe in Ari 101” textbook. Unlike neighboring Japanese attempts like Marlin Cafe (recently closed) and Kaizen, though, Hanazen keeps things simple without overreaching into fancified fusion cuisine. The thick menu spills with countless booze and food promo cards, much to the shrieking delight of the packed tables of Thai office workers on our last visit. Food competently skirts all the usual suspects: sashimi, shabu, rice bowls, gyoza, tempura, chicken wings, udon and soba. In short, the raw fish is fresh, the cooked food tastes homey and, most importantly,
Bangkok’s most trusted guide for discerning foodies
Theo Mio HHHH Italian. G/F, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-0444. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. BTS Chit Lom. F Corkage B1,000 for wine; B1,500 for spirits.
Bangkok just welcomed an Italian chain restaurant by Jamie Oliver, but he was beaten to the punch by another British celebrity chef. Opened late in 2015, Theo Mio is the first outpost outside of the UK for chef Theo Randall, who runs his eponymous restaurant at InterContinental London Park Lane and also stars in BBC Two’s culinary competition The Chef’s Protege. Unlike the mall-bound Jamie’s Italian, Theo Mio sits front and center of InterContinental Hotel’s ground floor, where it boasts some outdoor tables, an open kitchen and a takeaway coffee counter. The vibe remains casual and efficient, meaning you wouldn’t feel out of place ordering a simple pizza or even just drinks, as we observed several tables doing on our last visit. Even if you don’t order any food, they give you a complimentary bar of chocolate (along with a small hammer to break it). The kitchen here is led by chef Chris Beverley,
Book before 31 January 2017 for 30% discount Call: 02 624 9696 #601, 615, 620 Email: advertising@asia-city.co.th
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who worked alongside Randall at his London restaurant. Beside the classic pastas and risottos, you’ll find several more creative options, including the ravioli di erbette (B400), filled with mixed greens, ricotta and Parmesan cheese, and served with sage butter. Though flavorful, some of these dishes are a little on the buttery side for us, such as the risotto with prawns, zucchini, slow-roasted tomato and basil. Sadly, the veal cappelletti, one of chef Randall’s best-known dishes, is no longer on the menu. But the pappardelle with slowcooked wagyu beef cheek (B450) comes close to filling the void, featuring perfectly-cooked pasta and tender meat. On the flip side, the thin and crispy pizza is nothing outstanding, which is a shame given that the prices (starting from B425 for a simple margherita) are what we’d expect to pay for a fluffy Neapolitan-style pie. The roast organic salmon (B725) is another example of a very well-executed dish just lacking a bit in character. Dessert steals the show, though. The classic tiramisu (B225) nearly achieves perfection, with just the right ratio of biscuit, cream and coffee, while the Valrhona chocolate cake (B250) is very moist and chocolatey, served warm with a delicious orange mascarpone cream. Theo Mio does a solid job presenting quality cuisine chef Randall’s way—he’s known for being very veggie-friendly, and half of the menu here is vegetarian. But at such a high price point, we find many Italian contenders out there to be more appealing.
Ratings
Price guide
PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
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the prices are right. While not top-of-theline delicate, the salmon, buri (yellowtail) and maguro (tuna) of the assorted sashimi (B340-850) represent good bang for baht. A touch more creative is the maguro and avocado tartare (B310), where the slender strips of fish come topped with an onsenstyle soft egg and drizzled with a balsamic dressing. Simple but effective. We’re not so sure about the clashing flavors of the dashimaki mentaiko (B250), a Japanesestyle rolled omelet that comes bursting with a gooey mentaiko (pollock roe) and cheese filling, though it sure looks impressive. The kitchen also goes a little overboard on the seasoning for the saltgrilled yellowtail (B310), but the flaky fish is deliciously moreish owing to a topping of finely chopped shibazuke (mixed pickle). Hanazen isn’t doing anything remarkable food-wise, but there’s a genuine warmth to the place. Throw in some darn solid sake and umeshu tasting flights (from B210) and Japanese beers on tap, and it’s a fine neighborhood joint most would be happy to have at the top of their soi. Would we travel across town for it? Perhaps if we were organizing a larger group gathering. But there are certainly more exciting and authentic izakaya experiences to be had around Sukhumvit and Silom. Note: Parking is limited to two spaces only. Best call ahead.
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Symbols
H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music
1/6/17 1:14 PM
1/9/17 7:15 PM
now
FRI Dark Side With his new exhibition Into the Dark, photographer Benjamin Haselberger presents a powerful series capturing the harmful effects of crystal methamphetamine on the livelihoods of school children, prostitutes and sweatshop workers around Southeast Asia. Check it out at Cho Why (17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.) this Jan 13-15.
SUN Park Life Concert in the Park, the uber-popular outdoor concert series, takes over Lumphini Park (Rama 4 Rd.) again this Jan 15. Pack yourself a picnic and claim a patch of greenery by 5:30pm when the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra will perform popular classics, pop songs and soundtracks from famous movies. This year's playlist also promises tributes to HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
SAT Life in Mono Frequent visitors to our shores, Japanese post-rockers Mono have confirmed Bangkok as a destination in their world tour promoting their ninth studio album, Requiem for Hell, which has reintroduced string instruments into their sound. The four-piece instrumental band known for singles including "Where We Begin" and "Follow the Map" play Live RCA (RCA, Rama 9 Rd.) this Jan 17. Tickets are B1,500 at the door.
SAT Our Legacy Returning for its eighth edition this Jan 14-15, the hit Brooklyn-style vintage flea market Made by Legacy now takes over the rooftop of Fortune Town mall (1 Ratchadaphisek Rd. MRT Phra Ram 9) with 165 booths selling vinyl records, vintage clothing and furniture, arts and crafts, and food. The rooftop set-up promises to be a welcome throwback to the original Made by Legacy way back in 2012.
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now NIGHTLIFE
MUSIC REVIEW
TELEx TELEXs - "Shibuya"
Turntable Dubbers
BEC
FX BROS
ALL NIGHT LONG FEATURING THE FX BROS
SIGNAL FLAIR: LIVE BY NIGHT
The Singaporean/German DJ duo of Daniel.fx and Rodaq take over Ratchada’s home of techno. Jan 13, 10pm. Mustache Bar, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081-8447080. Free.
A mini festival featuring live poetry recitals, magic shows, improv comedy, freestyle rapping by UNDA and sets by DJs Arin and Luck-E. Advance tickets B350 at bit.ly/2iyrHB1 or B500 at the door. Jan 21, 8pm. Vertigo Too, 60/F, Banyan Tree, 100 Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. B350-500.
TURNTABLE DUBBERS
The Belgium-based DJ duo spin jungle, reggae, dubstep, moombahton, reggae and Latin beats at Sukhumvit Soi 11’s hidden Cuban bar with support from house band The Caribesound Band. Jan 14, 10pm. Havana Social, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-066-7711. Free. BTS Nana. BEC
A set by the Berlin-based, British techno DJ who was named one of the top 10 leading ladies of the underground music scene by Pulse Magazine in 2015. Jan 14, 10pm. Mustache Bar, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081844-7080. Free.
VINI VICI
The psy trance duo, known for their hit collaboration with Armin Van Buuren, "Great Spirit," which topped the Beatport chart, stop by Bangkok on their world tour. Advance tickets start at B700 at bit.ly/2i9iV9u with VIP tickets priced at B8,800 for 4 people, including a beer buffet from 9pm-midnight and one Bacardi bottle. Jan 21, 9pm. Live RCA Bangkok, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-974-6974. B700-8,800.
Formed as a duo back in 2015, TELEx TELEXs added a couple more members when they released their breakthrough single "Labelle," which reached the top of Cat Radio's chart in February of 2016. "Shibuya" is the band's fifth single and represents a big leap forward in craftmanship, with a huge synth-driven sound that blows their dreampop contemporaries out of the water. The single, written by synth player Pew with a little help from Nick from Part Time Musicians, tells the story of a breakup that gets awkward when the guy and girl accidentally bump into each other not long after (a narrative faithfully followed in the neon-tinged video clip). The name? Well, when Pew was writing this song, he had just returned from a trip to Japan. While the song bears plenty of '80s touchstones (those synths, those booming drums and those sultry horns towards the end), there's plenty of character and confidence to suggest TELEx TELEXs are a band to watch. Speaking of confidence, we're particularly taken with singer Aom's powerful vocal performance. All this also translates to an awesome live show (catch them live at Cat Expo, Wonderworld, Feb 4-5). Also, stay tuned for a new single some time in January. See more at www.fb.com/TELEXTELEXS. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
NEWS
The Sportsman Opens a Live Event Space
LIVE MUSIC
classical AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN CONNECTIONS
Guest pianist Eri Nakagawa and conductor Jeffery Meyer join the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra for a special performance. Jan 13-14, 4pm. Prince Mahidol Hall, Mahidol University (Salaya Campus), 25/25 Buddhamonthon Sai 4 Rd. B100-300. CHINA DIALOGUES
Zhang Guoyong
Zhang Guoyong conducts the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra, featuring guest violinist Cheng Yiqin. Student tickets are B100. Jan 20-21, 7pm. Prince Mahidol Hall, Mahidol University (Salaya Campus), 25/25 Buddhamonthon Sai 4 Rd. B100-500.
concerts MONO
The Japanese post-rock veterans return yet again as part of their Requiem For Hell album release world tour with support from Inspirative and Hope the Flowers. Early bird tickets are B1,200 at bit.ly/2hONEHV. Jan 17, 7pm. Live RCA Bangkok, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-974-6974. B1,200-1,500. Mono
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The Sportsman is not a new name on the Bangkok bar scene. The two-story Sukhumvit Soi 13 sports bar has long been one of the best places to catch all the most important sporting events from around the world (while shooting a game or two of pool, too). Recently, they've renovated the disused entrance area on the second floor into a separate live event venue called Live Lounge. Decked out in red and black, the spacious room comprises over 50 red leather seats and can host up to 100 people. Here, a stage is accompanied by two big projectors and some neon lighting for a very intimate vibe. The venue's aim is to help support the local live music, poetry and comedy scenes. At the moment they offer a hip-hop night on Monday, standup comedy night by The Bangkok Hilarious people on Wednesday and Thursday is reserved for hosting live bands. There's also talk of hosting film nights in the future. We're especially looking forward to seeing what events they offer up given the manager at Live Lounge previously held the same role at The Overground, so knows a thing or two about booking strong sets. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
2/F, The Sportsman Sportsbar Bangkok, Trendy Condo, Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-1687241. Open 8-2am
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now ART
FILM
Opening (Jan 12)
ISM
ISM : ART EXHIBITION
INTO THE DARK
TIMEMAKER
LA LA LAND (USA)
LIVE BY NIGHT (USA)
Twenty-three newly graduated artists, who dub themselves the "00’s group," join hands for their first exhibition. With live music from Bomb At Track on the opening night. Jan 21-31, 4pm. HOF Art Galler y, W District, 1588/288-290 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-178-0095. Free.
Photographer Benjamin Haselberger presents a powerful series capturing the harmful effects of crystal methamphetamine on the livelihoods of school children, prostitutes and sweatshop workers around Southeast Asia. Jan 13-15, 6pm. Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.
Polish-born photographer and filmmaker Zuzanna Kowalska explores a day in the life of her 84-year-old grandfather in his clockmaking business—a quickly dying profession in the modern world—in a series of documentary photographs. Jan 13-Feb 13, 6:30pm. Thong Lor Art Space, 58/14-15 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor).
Musical. A jazz pianist (Ryan Gosling) and an aspiring actress (Emma Stone) are faced with difficulties in maintaining their relationship while pursuing their own dreams.
Crime/Drama. In 1920s America where gangsters run an underground network of speakeasies, the son of the Boston Police superintendent (Ben Affleck) gets in trouble with the powerful mob boss.
SALES & FAIRS
Artbox Chatuchak
MADE BY LEGACY
ARTBOX CHATUCHAK
Returning for its 8th edition, the hit Brooklyn-style vintage flea market now takes over the rooftop of a mall with 165 booths selling vinyls, vintage clothing, vintage furniture, arts and crafts and food. Jan 14-15, 3pm. Fortune Town, 1 Ratchadaphisek Rd.
Arguably the city's most popular pop-up market returns to a brand new venue, this time a little further from the city center. Every Fri-Sun, expect some 100 trendy food stalls, over 150 stalls selling clothes at affordable prices, 20 stalls selling home decor and 50 stalls selling DIY and handmade products. As always, they'll be set up in large, colorful container boxes alongside plenty of live music and various art installations. Through Apr 30, 12pm. Chatuchak Park, 3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd.
SLEEPLESS (USA)
ARRIVAL (USA)
Action/ Thriller. An undercover Las Vegas police officer (Jamie Foxx) hunts down a group of murderous gangsters who have kidnapped his son.
Drama/Mystery. A linguistics professor (Amy Adams) leads an elite team of investigators when gigantic spaceships land in 12 locations around the world.
BALLERINA (FRANCE/CANADA)
THE BYE BYE MAN (USA)
Animation. A poor orphan girl (Elle Fanning) who dreams of becoming a ballerina runs away from her orphanage to Paris for a chance to audition for a celebrated dance school.
Horror/Thriller. Three college friends stumble upon the origins of a horrific curse that takes control of their minds and bodies, driving them to do unthinkable acts. SCHOOL TALES (THAI)
Horror. While staying late at school to practice, members of a marching band are faced with ghosts within the school walls that they have long heard rumors about.
Upcoming (Jan 19) SPECIAL SCREENINGS As part of their ongoing Open Air Cinema film festival, Goethe-Institut Thailand presents an outdoor screening of director Alain Gsponer’s 2015 film Heidi this Jan 17 at 6:30pm. Based on the novel of the same name by Johanna Spyri, the film tells the story of a young girl sent to live in the mountains with her elderly grandfather. After she is forced to move back to Frankfurt to live with an upper-class family as a companion for a young, wheelchair-bound girl, Heidi pines for the open spaces of her previous home. Goethe Institute Auditorium, 18/1 Sathorn Soi 1, 02-108-8200. MRT Lumpini
XXX: RETURN OF XANDER CAGE (USA)
JACKIE (USA)
Action. Government operative Xander Cage (Vin Diesel), thought to be long dead, returns to recover a powerful weapon known as “Pandora’s Box.”
Biopic. The life story of Jackie Kennedy (Natalie Portman), First Lady to President John F. Kennedy, both before and after the assassination of her husband. ASURA: THE CITY OF MADNESS (SOUTH KOREA)
Crime/Thriller. A detective (Jung Woosung) becomes involved in an investigation into the corrupt mayor (Hwang Jungmin) he has been doing dirty work for.
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