BK Magazine 689 12 May, 2017

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it's free!

Where’s the plaque?

BK MAGAZINE NO. 689 FRIDAY, MAY 12, 2017. www.bkmagazine.com

Save Our

Street Food Voices from the sidewalk

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page 3 6 cover story

Dead-end Street Food

Hot or Not

4 upfront

10 escapes

Coming Out

Grande Tourismo 14 avenue

18 bites

Hollywood Glam

Egg-citing Brunches 23 BK Now

Hot Stuff

Nelly vs Underworld

Who's in charge?

Editor in Chief / Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon, Thitipol Panyalimpanun Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat Senior Writer Bonnie Sananvatananont Staff Writer Natcha Sanguankiattichai, Theerada Moonsiri Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Junior Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Kasidit Srivilai Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designers Chantich Kongchanmitkul, Peeraya Sirathanisa Graphic Designer Anunya Chobnitas

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group

Video Content Manager Chanon Wongsatayanont Photographer Chissanupong Narmmoolnark Video Editor Tanaporn Choopanya, Saranya Laowtrakul Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Sales Associates Pichayarak Chalermchainukul Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai

bkmagazine.com

contest, updates, stories

Not: Beer yoga

The act of striking a pose while holding a lukewarm beer last week raised the ire of the Ministry of Public Health, who in turn alerted the fun police. They’re now calling “beer yoga” illegal and future events are in doubt (see goo.gl/IYUYNY).

Lucky there’s a new yoga trend to jump aboard—literally. It involves throwing sun salutations, on a surfboard, cut adrift on the Chao Phraya River. Don’t worry, it all takes place somewhere beyond Koh Kret where the water’s not such a murky brown. The next event’s on May 14 (see goo.gl/x1HMrT).

Interns Pragyan Ghale, Wipawan Witayathawornwong, Kawee Jarach, Nathanan Charoenkitchaikarn Cover by Chissanupong Narmmoolnark

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07-02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 Email: contact@asia-city.com.sg

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

get in the loop

Hot: Surf yoga

Contributor Kathy MacLeod, Lily Kittisrikangwan

Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Nutnicha Nuttanakorn Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Administrator Yaovaluck Srisermsri Accountant Manita Bangmoung

Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

Not: Durian Kit Kat

There’s something funky going on in the basement of Siam Paragon. Honey-toast-touting dessert cafe After You has opened a branch dedicated to everything durian: durian sticky rice honey toast, durian kakigori, durian-shaped ice cream on a stick and durian frappe. Knowing After You, there’s bound to be queue.

Knowing the Ministry of Tourism, they’ll be back on the phone to Nestle about finally producing that tourist-baiting durian Kit-Kat.

20 bites

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Hot: Durian toast

facebook.com/bkmagazine

Hot: Shakshuka

Not: Eggs Benedict

For too long our weekends have been blighted by lukewarm eggs, soggy brioche and straight-from-the-jar Hollandaise. You can’t blame us for wanting to expand our brekkie horizons. One dish coming to a rustic-industrial cafe near you is shakshuka, a Middle Eastern specialty that sees poached eggs prepared in a spicy tomato sauce along with plentiful veggies. See our pick of the best, page 18.

Hot: Staying in

Not: Going Out

Another one bites the dust. Ekkamai’s goth-chic, after-hours haunt Dark Bar will shut its doors on Jun 3, after police started forcing it to close at midnight. Though tiny in size, the bar leaves a gaping hole in the city’s underground music scene.

Throw in no street food and crazy taxi drivers (see page 4), and we’re left thinking, why bother going out at all? After all, Netflix just added Thai dubbing and iFlix has slashed membership by up to 70-percent. Now that we’re really desperate, even Hooq, Primetime and Viu will do. latest news and trends

@bkmagazine

see what’s happening

@bkmagazine BK Magazine Friday, May 12, 2017

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upfront

Paul Heymans

Shane Bhatla

NEWS

LGBTIQ+

The War on Uber Means a War on Taxis

Having been postponed from May, Bangkok’s first pride parade in 11 years is now scheduled on Nov 27-Dec 3. One of the main organizers of the six-day celebration of diversity is OUT BKK, a non-profit, non-governmental organization that aims to serve the needs of Bangkok’s LGBTIQ+ community. We spoke to founder Paul Heymans and transgender program manager Shane Bhatla about the planning process and the difficulties of being queer in Thailand.

On Apr 25, a Brazilian tourist was raped by a taxi driver before being abandoned in the middle of rice fields in Suphanburi province. That taxi driver had previously been arrested twice for rape and his license plate was expired. At the same time, authorities were pushing to ban Uber, arguing that it’s not safe. The obvious disconnect forced authorities to announce a bevy of new taxi regulations and promises for stricter background checks.

Here are some of the latest developments.

ALL TAXIS TO BE FITTED WITH CAMERAS, TRACKING DEVICES, PANIC BUTTONS The Department of Land Transport hosted a seminar two weeks ago to discuss the installation of tracking devices and cameras alongside an emergency button in all taxis in Bangkok. The tracking devices will be linked to the taxi department management center and the Taxi OK application. The app will also come with an option to prevent taxi drivers from refusing service to passengers. The installation would cost around B20,000 per taxi.

GRABBIKE IS BACK, WITH DEPARTMENT OF LAND TRANSPORT APPROVAL Back in Mar 2016, the DLT ordered GrabBike’s motorcycle-taxi service to halt all operations operations until it followed local rules. Seems they got the message. The newly relaunched GrabBike (Win) is a partnership with the widely available Win motorbike taxi service, which uses legally registered drivers and motorcycles. Users can request to be picked up from their doorstep and transported anywhere within

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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Bangkok, instead of having to walk to the local Win street corner. Much to the DLT’s delight, bikes also come equipped with helmets for drivers and passengers, plus protective jackets for driver-partners.

UBER TEAMS UP WITH LINE, STILL ISN’T LEGAL Despite government requests to halt service pending a study, Uber Thailand is stepping up operations through a partnership with LINE, the country’s most-used chat app.

Uber rides can now be requested directly through LINE, while another new feature will mean users no longer have to type in their destination as long as they are noted in their calendar. They’re also touting an in-app chat function for riders and drivers.

TAXI COOPERATIVES MUST FLUSH OUT EXPIRED LICENSE PLATES It’s believed there are about 5,000 taxis driving around with expired licenses. Last week, officials told the taxi cooperatives to report all the expired ones within 15 days. Feeling safer, now?

What’s the latest on the Pride Parade?

Paul: We’ve been making fantastic progress in terms of planning: the dates have been set and the location has been booked. Now we are just waiting for government approval but hopefully we will get that soon since we have received backing from various official entities. More and more organizations, agencies, individuals and companies have also joined up and the list of participants and supporters is growing exponentially. We do ask the public to be patient with us as it’s quite the task breathing life into a project that has been dormant for the past 11 years.

Shane, tell us about your work Shane: I work as a transgender program manager, focusing predominantly on transmen. I try to figure out their needs to create programs that can positively affect their way of living. For example, we’re currently working on a project called “Hey Brother” that allows transmen who no longer need their chest binders to donate them to younger men who might not be able to afford or access them.

It’s 2017. Have you seen any improvements in the LGBT community in Bangkok?

Shane: I think there’s definitely a rise in social acceptance. People are now talking about it and even schools are trying to adapt themselves to be more inclusive.

What was it like when you first came out as a transman?

Shane: Complicated. Some said “they knew all along” which is hilarious to me. Some were surprised but still supportive. I lost a few friends, but I gained hundreds more. It took me an entire year before coming out to get everything together, talking to therapists, doctors. It has been a beautiful journey, really. I have received so much support, close friends adapting to the correct pronouns, a lot of questions, but ultimately acceptance.

Paul: Undoubtedly, yes. The LGBT movement in Bangkok, and Thailand as a whole, has grown immensely over the past couple of years.

How does Bangkok compare regionally?

Shane: Bangkok is definitely more accepting compared to some other

countries in Southeast Asia, and it’s definitely one of the countries that is open to gay tourism and promotes it. However, there are also struggles that the community faces in day-today life, whether it is employment opportunities, housing, loans or otherwise.

Paul: Generally the struggles come with more traditional families. When it comes to employers, this can also be a huge problem. Transgender people in general are often more discriminated against than lesbian or gay people, when applying for jobs, or even applying for a promotion to managerial level. This seems to be a general trend worldwide, and is not specific to Thai or Buddhist culture.

Shane: I have faced difficulties in job hunting, especially when I have to provide my ID. I’ve dealt with a very transphobic landlady who repeatedly, after being corrected, misgendered me. Being misgendered is one of the most harmful issues, I think.

It can cause severe dysphoria, and yet it repeatedly happens, including among “friends.” Being misgendered publicly forces me to come out to people who I might not want to be out to. Interview by Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

BK Magazine Friday, May 12, 2017

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cover story

Save Our Street Food

The latest on the power struggle over our sidewalk soup bowls.

By Bonnie Sananvatananont

O

n Apr 18, news surfaced about the BMA’s plans to officially clear Bangkok entirely of its street food stalls, while keeping heavily-regulated Yaowarat and Khaosan roads as the only two exceptions thanks to their tourist appeal. Citing improvements in traffic congestion, road cleanliness and proper use of public sidewalks, the BMA insists that this decision is for the greater good of Bangkok and its citizens.

While it may seem like the battle has just started, the BMA’s scheme has actually been under way for some time now, resulting in the clearance of some of the city’s favorite foodie hubs including Sukhumvit Soi 38 (Jan 2016), Samyan (June 2013), On Nut (Oct 2015) and the latest victims: Thonglor, Ekkamai and Phra Khanong over the Songkran holidays. What used to be buzzing hot spots that people could rely on at all hours of the day for cheap kao mun gai and somtam have now become empty pavements.

Thanks to CNN’s recent ranking of Bangkok as the world’s street food capital and the impending arrival of the Michelin guide, the city’s reputation as a dining destination has conceivably never been higher.

But while this decision threatens to cast a shadow over Bangkok’s global image, we must not overlook the biggest victims: locals who rely on street food as both a means of income and a source of convenient, affordable food. To clear Bangkok of its street food is to change the very essence of our lifestyle.

That said, it’s widely agreed that some regulation is welcome. Had the BMA placed the focus of its scheme on stricter regulations regarding food hygiene and space allocation, it would surely have had more widespread public support. If done right, these regulations would more than likely see vendors willing to compromise rather than face eviction.

But with that also comes the risk of over-regulation, which many fear will happen to Yaowarat and Khaosan roads in the near future. If they truly must clear the rest of the city, the BMA should tread very carefully as to not ruin the appeal of what will be Bangkok’s only two remaining spots for street food, which from the very beginning have had colorful chaos as part of their charm.

With all this in mind, we talked to some of the people in Bangkok’s dining scene to get their opinions on the future of street food.

Bk asks

Yaowarat street vendors

“I can’t afford to rent a shop-house. Prices here can go up to B300,000 [a month] for a space on the main road. I’ve already started seeing officers coming to regulate and it’s terrifying knowing we can’t do anything but oblige.”

LEK, Shark fin soup vendor

“I guess we should consider ourselves lucky that we are only getting regulated but not cleared. Right now, we vendors have to help each other. We have to listen to what they say: stop having stalls that stick out into the road, stop washing dishes on the road. If not, they might clear us out altogether.”

“If you remove street food everywhere else, there will be a lot more people here and wouldn’t that make things even more disorderly? Plus, this is not the only tourist destination in Bangkok. Tourists want to go all over the city. They need street food elsewhere too.”

NOK, Pa tong go (fried dough) vendor

JENG, Jui guay (steamed rice cake) vendor

EVENT

Bangkok's Street Food Future This May 17, the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand hosts a special panel discussion dubbed “Bangkok’s Street Food Future,” which aims to discuss allegedly misreported comments from the BMA that started a series of online fake-news accusations and heaps of coverage in Western media regarding Thailand’s street food future. The talk will also touch on what defines “street food” in the BMA’s eyes.

The panel includes important members of Bangkok’s foodie scene, including Chawadee Nualkhair (see page 8), Piyaluck Nakayodhin (publisher of Street Food: 39 Great Places Under 100 Baht), Philip Cornwell-Smith (author of Very Thai: Every Day Popular Culture) and David Thompson (chef/owner of Nahm restaurant and author of Thai Street Food).

May 17, 9pm. B450 for non-members. Free for members. FCCT, Maneeya Center, 518/5 Phloenchit Rd., 02-652-0581

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BK Magazine Friday, May 12, 2017

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cover story

bk asks

What are the possible alternatives?

Sukhumvit Soi 33 street vendors

Since this topic has entered public discussion, many suggestions have been shared on social media as alternative solutions to clearing out street food altogether.

“We’re poor. We can hardly afford to rent a home, let alone a shop-house to sell our food. The government needs to care about Thai people and Thai culture, not tourists.

Thai people love street food. Somtam is our national food. People rely on it to be accessible everywhere they go.”

NUI, Somtam vendor

“They say they want to clear street food to improve traffic, but street food is only one of many factors. Why don’t they prevent people from parking their cars and blocking up a whole lane? What about trash on the street or bad traffic organization? Taking away street food won’t make the traffic any less awful.

“Thai people need street food, People already suffer when there’s no street food on Mondays. Not everyone wants to eat from 7-Eleven and not everyone can afford to eat in restaurants. If vendors can sell at Yaowarat and Khaosan then we should be allowed to sell here too.”

NUAD, Pork broth vendor

TAE, Grilled fish vendor

CHAWADEE NUALKHAIR, Author of Bangkok Glutton

DYLAN JONES, Co-founder of Bo.lan

8

What are your thoughts about keeping the stalls on Khaosan and Yaowarat alive simply because these are “prime tourist spots”? Is tourism being prioritized over local convenience and the jobs of local people?

Of course. Let's not be so sure that Khaosan and Yaowarat will remain unchanged, however. We are still unsure of what this "strict regulation" means for vendors, and whether it will be so much of a hassle that vendors will make less money than is worth it for them to stay on the streets. Some of the smaller vendors may end up giving up. But I hope that, from a tourism point of view, not even Bangkok is this short-sighted. I hope they are slowly realizing that tourists want to see street food, not nice Thai restaurants with dancers and fruit carvers or whatever.

Thai restaurants are ubiquitous enough back

home—people want something different. I'm not so sure about loss of jobs, but it’s possible that it will have an impact. Someone at one of the investment banks is probably already looking into this.

What are your thoughts about the potential ban?

It’s not a bad idea. Obviously it’s going to affect the livelihoods of street food vendors which isn’t good, but I think regulating, educating and bringing up standards of the street food here is a good thing. I feel that recently the quality of street food in Thailand has dropped. The actual price that they are selling for has not gone up, but the prices of the ingredients have—this means vendors are having to cut corners to make their food, resulting in the quality rapidly declining. I think regulation is a step in the right direction. At the end of the day, people have to realize that if you want something good, you’ll

have to pay more money. Besides, you can go into shop-houses that sell similar things as street food.

How will the new regulations affect street food as we know it?

How much money are they willing to spend?

Where will it come from? That is what is interesting to me. So far, it looks like a Donald Trump-ian promise to "come up with a better healthcare plan" or "bring coal back again".

Will it simply be telling police to harass vendors, and will they actually follow through?

It depends on so many different things. The ultimate result is the same: a chilling effect on new vendors and innovation in the streets, and fewer options for everyone.

What do you think needs to change or be improved in Thailand’s street food scene?

We need to go back to a period when the vendors were making food from scratch. Now, they’re all sourcing it from the same place– for example, tub tim grob is made in a market in the Old Town that sells tub tim grob to hundreds and hundreds of vendors who then just resell it across the city. It means everything tastes the same and takes away from the charm that Thailand’s street food used to have.

>

Drawing a line in the street for where vendors are allowed up set up their stalls— for instance, a green line to designate space allowed during the night and a yellow line for during the day. This keeps the charm of street food in the city while controlling the space, if the primary concern is that street food interferes with traffic flow. vendors for the space they take >up. Charge If it’s a matter of the government not wanting vendors to take advantage of public space, then they should be charged for what they use. While this is not ideal for vendors who are already struggling to make a living, it surely will cost less than having to rent out a shop-house or stop selling altogether.

Centers have become the pri>maryHawker solution for street food vendors in other Southeast Asian countries, including Singapore, Indonesia, Malaysia and Hong Kong. Unlike food courts, which are usually owned by a private company, hawker centers are government-owned and made up of independent stalls that pay rent for the space. That independence preserves their unique character and low prices. While the stalls benefit from getting a permanent spot, in an arguably more comfortable location, the public benefits from having one-stop destinations for quality street food. At the same time this makes it easier to control licensing and hygiene for the government.

BK Magazine Friday, May 12, 2017

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ADVERTORIAL

Sustainability Tips for Your Home

A closer look at Thailand’s Co2 emissions

279,253 Co2 emissions (kilo tons)

0.77% Percentage of world

Co2 emissions

4.1

Emission per capita (tons)

22nd Ranking in world for most CO2 emission

[Source: European Commission and Netherlands Environmental Assessment Agency, 2015]

Consuming less and protecting the planet starts at home.

When it comes to making our society more sustainable, every little bit counts. Often times, even the smallest and simplest of contributions can make an impact. These can be implemented by anyone, anywhere—even in your own home. Here are some easy first steps everyone can take to make their living space smarter, more efficient and more environmentally-friendly.

UNPLUG IT

REDUCE

There’s a popular misconception that turning off an electronical device is enough to stop it from consuming energy. The truth, however, is that an appliance can still use up to as much as 10% of its energy just by simply being plugged into the socket. With that in mind, make it a habit before going to work or going to bed to unplug any devices you won’t be using for a while—for instance, research shows that most TVs are left on standby for around 17 hours a day without being used. Think of all the energy you could save by simply unplugging it!

Possibly the most straightforward step is to think twice about how much food, water and electricity you truly need.

Consider how much food waste you throw out a week, and whether this can be cut. Do you really need to take a bath rather than a shower? Do you need to tumble dry your clothes or can Bangkok’s scorching heat help them air dry? Keeping these things in mind when doing your day-to-day tasks can help ensure you don’t consume more than you need.

Organizing Carbon Neutral Events

The Carbon Neutral Events program is an environmental responsibility project that helps to reduce greenhouse gases and build capacity for the Thai MICE industry in response to current customer demand.

TCEB partnered with Thailand Greenhouse Gas Management

PAPERP

LASTIC

Organization (TGO) to prepare

ORGANIC

carbon footprint assessment guidelines, support MICE operators to stage events with more

PLANT EDIBLE PLANTS

STORE RAINWATER

SORT YOUR WASTE

A huge part of sustainability is being able to provide for yourself without relying on external sources. A great way to do this is by growing edible plants in your house— for instance herbs like basil, mint, and ginger can easily be grown in a confined, indoor space. Other options suitable for the house include garlic, tomatoes, salad leaves and green beans. Not only is gardening a therapeutically relaxing activity, but the plants can also double as a great form of decoration and help improve the air quality in your home.

With the rainy season coming up, now’s a great time to set up some rainwater collection devices in your house, which can be as simple as placing bottles or buckets to collect runoff water from your roof. This water can then be reused for many household tasks, like watering plants and cleaning, and help to reduce the use of water from your main water supply.

Sorting out your trash into paper, plastic and recyclables is easy and very effective in helping waste management.

To do this, set up well-labeled trash cans for each category in your house and be sure to recycle the appropriate items. While you’re at it, don’t forget that any plastic grocery bags you have from shopping can later be used as bin liners to help separate your trash easily without you having to buy extra plastic bags.

TCEB_April 28_01.indd 19

ronment and embark on a journey for a low-carbon society.

Check out TCEB’s Carbon Neutral Events guide which outlines the key facts organizations should be aware of when organizing a carbon-free event. It provides steps on how to calculate energy used, pre- and postevent measures, the benefits of organizing a sustainable event and much more.

By

What is MICE? M – Meetings I – Incentives C – Conventions E – Exhibitions & Events

consideration towards the envi-

Join the conversation:

MICE Capabilities

tcebmicecap

5/4/17 11:04 AM

escapes ESCAPE ROUTES

By Lily Kittisrikangwan

The Wine Ayutthaya

AYUTTHAYA

Wine Not? The Wine Ayutthaya (42/1 Moo 4, Ban Roon Phra Nakhon Sri Ayutthaya, 081-9421666, www.fb.com/grandchaophraya) is the perfect excuse to head back to the ancient capital. This extension to the Grand Chaophraya Ayutthaya restaurant, famous for its river prawns and river views, comes from Boonserm Premthada of Bangkok Project Studio, who takes inspiration from Thailand's wooden houses to create a stunning design that blends with the surrounding greenery. Even Archdaily.com has featured its mezzanines and spiral staircases intersecting a vast cube shrouded in transparent PVC sheets. The wine bar is on the ground floor, which offers plenty of water views to go with the wine.

PHUKET

Isle of Solitude You can now stay on the Andaman Sea's largest private island, Koh Mai Ton, which sits about 9km from Phuket. Maiton Private Island (100 Moo 7, Wichi, Muang, Phuket, www.maitonprivateisland.com) operates more like a family-run Airbnb than a resort. Guests can use the Maiton Private Island beachfront pool villas either for the day (starting at B6,000 per person) or stay overnight (B20,000/2 people, inclusive of breakfast and dinner right at the villa and a barbecue lunch at the lobby area), where you're guaranteed complete seclusion on the 1km, unspoiled beach. Those prices include speedboat transfer, but you can add an extra B2,000 for a catamaran upgrade. Activities on the island include outdoor massages with a view (from B1,000/hour), a spot of diving at the underwater reef (B3,000/30 mins) or trekking for a view of Nam-Hong and Chong Lom bays as the sun sets over the coast. Scuba-diving programs for newbies are also available upon request, while overnight guests can also take a boat around the island for a dolphin-sighting trip. For daytrips, speedboat and catamaran transfers depart from Dolphin Pier twice a day at 9am and 1pm, inclusive of hotel pick-up, priced at B2,900 and B3,900, respectively. There are currently only six villas available on the island, but more will be built in the near future.

SINGAPORE

Pop Tracks Bangkok’s coolest hangout spots for brunch, coffee, sweets, all-day bites and more.

Don’t miss your chance to advertise in BK Magazine’s new guide, Cafe Society.

Organized by neighborhood, the Cafe Society guide is all about spending the slowest, most leisurely day you’ve ever had.

Start things off with a single-origin brew, tuck into some fluffy pancakes and find the perfect garden to knock back a long drink.

Great for all-day restaurants, coffee shops, dessert cafes, juice bars, healthy eating, artisanal foods, markets, co-working spaces and workshops.

Tickets to the F1 Singapore Grand Prix (singaporegp.sg), to be held from Sep 15-17, are already on sale with three-day prices starting from SG$248 (B6,417). For the tenth edition of the race, organizers are pulling out all stops with the announAriana Grande ment that not one, but five international acts will throw fulllength concerts alongside the main event. The pop-tastic lineup includes chart-topping darling Ariana Grande, EDM duo The Chainsmokers, pop-rock band OneRepublic, ‘80s synthpop legends Duran Duran and English singer-songwriter Seal. Soulful female multi-instrumentalist Lianne La Havas and British spoken word performer and rapper George the Poet are also confirmed to perform, while the promoters are touting more acts, including the Sunday post-race headliner, to be announced in the coming weeks.

More interested in the cars? Tickets for Malaysia's Sep 29-Oct 1 race (B817 for three days) are eight times cheaper than Singapore's.

Call 02-624-9620, 601, 615 or email advertising@asia-city.co.th Visit bkmagazine.com/jobs

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avenue FASHION

Finnish Line Marimekko celebrates the 100th anniversary of Finland’s independence with three bold new prints. Veljekset takes inspiration from Finnish folk tales, depicting iconic animals in dark and moody settings on tote bags (B1,700) and cushion covers (B1,990). Meanwhile, Siirtolapuutarha sees a garden full of flowers and vegetables printed on aprons (B2,400), wood trays (B1,800) and oven mitts (B990). The brand’s classic poppy print, Unikko, also gets a spruce up with the Ruutu-Unikko print, which adds a gridlike motif to the flower pattern. It works wonders on the Ruutu Unikko Puolikas purse (B1,100). Try G/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. 02-658-0530. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

FASHION

SHOPPING

SPA

Gold Standard

House of Pop

Natural Retreat

Ever since Gerald Genta designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972, it’s been a symbol of hyper masculinity. We felt it had gone a bit too far in that direction, making it better suited to hip hop stars and football players. In a return to tradition, AP just released a 40th anniversary edition of the original design in gold. Yes, gold—the metal has made a surprising comeback on connoisseur’s wrists this year. Our pick: The 18-carat yellow gold Royal Oak extrathin with champagne or blue dial for a cool B1.9 million. www.audemarspiguet.com

InDaHouse, an accessories brand from Thai designer Ton Vajanapanich, adds a playful street style to household wares. These include a faceted ceramic skull (B2,490) in silver and copper, and a yellow smiley rug (B5,100), which is both edgy and spooky. The most eye-popping piece is a 32cm-high Mao Zedong resin statue (B3,790)— complete with an ice cream cone on his head. Available at Room Concept Store, 4/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.indahousestore.com

Thonglor’s new boutique spa, the rustic and homey No.38 Infinite Natural Spa, sits in a two-story house on Sukhumvit Soi 38. Here, surrounded by lush greenery, it offers the usual array of massage services: traditional Thai (B600), warm aroma (B1,000), warm candle (B1,400) and foot reflexology (B650).

Still, the spa does stand out for its head-and-face-focused massages (B250 for 15 mins) and Moroccan-style decor—stucco walls and little niches with candles. Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-0029614. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.number38spa.com

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avenue INTERIOR

Gold Rush

Add some Hollywood Regency bling to your home with these new-in-town picks. By Kasidit Srivilai Book ends, C.A.M, B12,000

Golden chair, Moooi, B82,000 Meurice Rectangle Chandelier, Jonathan Adler, B89,000

Cake knife, Nixon, B3,900 Scissors, Hay, B1,100 Tray, Hay, B4,200 Greg Natales Interior

Essentials Baker. 3/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. C.A.M. Available at Motif Art of Living, 3/F, Erawan Bangkok, Phloen Chit Rd. Hay. 3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Jonathan Adler. G/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd.

Heliodor decorative chest, Baker, B634,000

Cake Stand, Nixon, B12,000

Moooi. Available at Motif Art of Living, 3/F, Erawan Bangkok, Phloen Chit Rd. Nixon. Available at Jonathan Adler, G/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd.

FASHION New Sneaker Shops Beyond Siam Square

UNCON

CARNIVAL MEGA BANGNA

SEEK

This new multi-brand retailer packs in over 30 fashion names, among them cult kicks like the Adidas Y-3 Lazelle (B7,000), the highly-sought-after NMD in monochrome white (B9,000), all the way up to the Yeezy Boost 750 (B49,000). Rare Nikes include the Dunk Low Premium SB “Kuwahara ET” (B8,500).

Carnival’s flagship store can be found on Siam Square Soi 7, but the awesomely designed branch in Mega Bangna is arguably even better. This futuristic-looking, all-white venue focuses on sneakers from Nike, Adidas and Vans. Snap up new arrivals like Nike Sock Dart BR (B5,200), Stan Smith Boost (B7,990) from Adidas or the Gel-lyte “Vanda” limited edition (B7,500) from Asics Tiger.

This may be the multi-label footwear and sportswear store from Singapore’s fourth opening in Thailand, but it’s also the best in terms of selection. Expect brands from Nike to Reshoevn8er, plus “Seek exclusive” items like the Nike Air Max 90 Essential Referee Pack (B4,400) and Nike Air Max Thea SE Kurim Pack (B4,900)

331/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-195-2262. www.unconbkk.com

3/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5689. BTS Phloen Chit. www.seekofficial.com

Mega Bangna, Banga-trad Rd. 02-252-4215. www.carnivalbkk.com

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bites & blends

RESTAURANT

Floral Feast Located inside the Museum of Floral Culture, Midnight Moon plates up floral cuisine at its finest.

Master floral artist Sakul Intakul (whose portfolio includes works for Thai and foreign royal ceremonies over a 30-year career) incorporates flowers into each course of the set dinner (B1,450).

The result is an extra-sensory experience, where Sakul’s work on the plate is no less delicate and detailed than his signature floral decorations.

Inspired by his travels in Asia, especially Japan and India, the menu sees items like grilled miso tofu on magnolia leaf, served with house-pickled white turmeric and a white champaka flower, complete with an instruction to smell the flower while eating the tofu. Of course, you’ll also get to eat some flowers, like in the salad muang luang, a herb salad with yellow sesbania and Mexican creeper blossoms, served with rice cracker and fried frangipani-wrapped minced pork. The experience also includes an intermission—a garden tour before dessert. Just make sure to leave room for the rose petal sorbet. Advance reservations required. 315 Samsen Soi 28, 02-669-3633

CAFE

POP-UP

RESTAURANT

Gallery Hopping

Bubbling Over

All-day Delight

Gallery Drip, the iconic cafe and roaster at BACC, has branched out to Chinatown. This second outlet of the drip coffee pioneer sits in a brightly-lit hostel that’s also home to Kaja Gallery. Playfully named after its Wangburapa neighborhood, Gallery Drip Wangbrewpa stays honest to the cafe’s drip-coffee-only philosophy, serving single origin beans from both Thailand and abroad (from B70/cup). In addition to coffee, there are also tea and some desserts. The Shrek (B100), a coffee jelly topped with milk foam and green tea ice cream, tastes much better than it sounds. G/F, Cacha Bed Heritage Hostel, 156 Maha Chai Rd., 081-917-2131

Throughout May, Italian restaurant La Bottega di Luca features a special menu promised to pair well with the Ferrari Trento prosecco. Chef-proprietor Luca Appino and head chef Andrea Ortu will be serving risotto with 36-month Parmesan cheese, scampi, green apple, lime and thyme foam (B790) to go with Maximum Brut Rose (B380/glass), and slowcooked Australian wagyu beef cheek with potato and Italian bacon mille-feuille (B890) to go with Sagrantino Carapace (B370/glass). A bottle of Trento starts from B1,700 with a plate of tapas. Terrace 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-204-1731

Replacing the spot that used to be All Six to Twelve, Gismo offers a very green vision, from the wall paint to furniture and lots of faux plants. The chef, Pratchaya Kroekarchachai, boasts experience as head chef at Dusit Thani and stints in Sydney, Australia, and here presents an all-day-dining Western concept of brunchy dishes dotted with greens to match the decor.

The menu covers the likes of rocket salad with Parma ham (B320), BBQ chicken avocado (B320), spaghetti aglio e olio with chorizo (B290) and pan-seared snapper with ratatouille and lemon butter sauce (B340). For drinks, they offer coffee (from B110), juices (from B120) and cocktails (from B260). 39 Boulevard, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-160-0311

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5/4/17 6:12 PM

Luxe Night Out A first look at Bangkok’s newly opened megaclub, Club SX.

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angkok just welcomed an ambitious new nightclub. Club SX is located on the sixthfloor of the Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 21.

Spread across more than 1,000 square meters, the club is said to have cost over B250 million to build and aims to serve up a Las Vegas glamour vibe in a setting full of gilded frames and Corinthian columns. In fact, it claims to be the “most luxurious” club in town.

The club is split into a variety of zones from a discotheque main-floor decked out in mirror balls to three private rooms where you can indulge in karaoke shenanigans with your crew. There are two outdoor terraces: the Cowboy Zone with killer views of Asoke intersection and the more intimate Romantic Zone, where the soundtrack charts love songs from the ‘80s till now.

But the very coolest thing about this new nightclub is they also do a private Hummer limousine service—the only of its kind in Thailand— where they pick you up and drop you off in style.

It’s available only for advance booking by Club SX members.

6/F, Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit Hotel, 30 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 062-171-5299. Open daily 8pm till late. BTS Asoke

Brought to you by Club SX

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Experience the ultimate luxury night out at Club SX on the 6/F of Pullman Bangkok Grand Sukhumvit.

For reservations, call 062171-5299 or email reservation@ sxdance.club. For more on upcoming events and activities, see www.sxdance.club, www. fb.com/clubsxbangkok,IG: clubsx, Line: clubsx.

BK Magazine Friday, May 12, 2017

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bites BREAKFAST

Rise and Shine Why shakshuka is the new eggs Benedict.

By Natcha Sanguankiattichai

Tun-atiruj

Siwilai Cafe

The Coffee Club

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nstead of topping poached eggs with ham and hollandaise, Bangkok brunch-goers are now enjoying theirs poached in a mildly spicy tomato sauce. The Middle Eastern staple of shakshuka typically also adds vegetables like chili peppers or onions and herbs like cumin to the mix, resulting in a breakfast dish that’s heady and hearty. Here are the best places to try it.

Siwilai Cafe

The Coffee Club

Quince

While the crowds may have moved onto the new beach-themed hangout on the same floor of Central Embassy, you’re still assured a peaceful all-day breakfast at this cafe. Among their multi-cuisine breakfast offerings, the shakshuka comes served in a funky yet familiar kai krata pan. B300.

What makes the shakshuka here different from other places is how they top spiced tomato sauce with perfectly-poached eggs—the same as what you’ll find in eggs Benedict—cheese and some spinach. On the side, you’ll also get toasted bread and balsamic sauce. B240.

With its food inspired mostly by Mediterranean cuisine, Quince has no problem incorporating this eggy dish into its weekend brunch. Unlike other places, you’ll find more tomato fruit and less tomato sauce in the hot pan served here. B280 or add lamb merguez for another B60.

5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5836. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Luka Aiming to serve healthy meals with style, the Sathorn cafe strikes a fine balance between photogenic and flavorful.

The rich shakshuka here comes in a hot skillet with slices of toasted sourdough, all atop a rustic wooden board. B320.

Casa Pagoda, 64/1 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 9-7pm

Nine branches around Bangkok. Try G/F, Major Ekkamai, 1239 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-381-2736.

Open daily 6.30am-10pm

Brooklyn Baker Served in a bowl instead of skillet, the poached eggs come in a well of spiced tomato sauce with onion, capsicum and sausage, and a thick slice of buttery bread cut in four. The sauce itself is so well-flavored with herbs and spices. B240.

51/7 Soi Polo, Wireless Rd., 081-855-7090. Open daily 8am-5pm

Brooklyn Baker

Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 10.30am-3pm

Mama Dolores In-the-know diners know they’re guaranteed solid Mediterranean fare at this Yen Akart neighborhood fave. Their so-called Balkan shakshuka (B260) also comprises grilled eggplant and feta cheese, served with pita bread on the side. Normal shakshuka is B190.

Luka

20 Yen Akat Rd., 080-606-0400. Open daily 11am-10.30pm

ON THE BAR Nineteens Up The buzz: This adult playground not only serves drinks but also stocks plenty of games and activities—hence the name, referencing the last year of teenage life.

The decor: It all takes place in an atmosphere that’s very “startup rec room” (think whitewashed bricks and street art) despite the unlikely location in Baan Silom, towards the Charoenkrung end of the road. Board games, pool tables, a table tennis table and an air hockey table complete the picture.

The food: The kitchen is a collaboration with chef Thanawat “Ice” Chudtalay of Puu Tid Peek (The Crab Can Fly), a seafood delivery service. Aside from seafood-heavy creations like the squid ink fettuccine with crab roe, garlic and chili olive oil (B250), you’ll find solid sharing fare like nachos (B250) and beef ribs (B1,190). The six-hour-roasted

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steak (B450), melts in your mouth and comes with creamy, buttery mash and green peas.

The drinks: Aside from craft beers like Vedett Extra Ordinary IPA (B320/pint) and Little Creatures (B320/pint) on tap, the bar also spotlights strong cocktails. Water Fall (B420) is particularly potent, made with Kahlua, apple and lychee liqueurs, and Sambuca. It’s served in shot form and comes with another covered glass filled with the aroma of burnt Sambuca that you’re supposed to suck out through a straw afterwards. Less crazy but no less powerful is After 19 (B350), which mixes tequila, triple sec, lime wedge, mint and brown sugar, topped with beer. Our favorite, though, is My Light (B380), a mix of absinthe, Bacardi rum, Midori, sour mix, lemon wedge, mint leaves and a sweeet kick that softens the blow of the absinthe.

The crowd: After-work urbanites in their professional outfits, some younger gangs and the odd foreigner dressed in shorts and flip flops.

Why you should care: This is a rare daytime hangout that puts the focus on fun. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

Baan Silom, Silom Soi 19, 096-649-6919. Open daily 11-1am

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bites

Attitude

Drink the View Four chill spots to drink by the river.

STEVE CAFE AND CUISINE Located in the small community behind Wat Devarajkoonchon, next to Thewet Pier, this a 60-year-old house has been made bright and bold with a few licks of paint and the addition of some wooden furniture. The food is mostly typical Thai dishes served on plain dinnerware; it’s not the most fancy, but it’s very pleasant and comforting.

Steve’s casual and simple vibe makes for a relaxing experience—one that’s only enhanced by the sunset views and sounds of the river.

68 Sri Ayutthaya Soi 21, 081-868-0744, 02-281-0915.

Open daily 11:30am-11pm

THE DECK There are many restaurants in Bangkok blessed with the backdrop of the Chao Phraya. Few, however, can boast a spectacle as inspiring as a brightly lit Wat Arun directly across the river from your table like this charming mostly outdoor venue can. The fiveroom boutique hotel that houses the Deck and the restaurant itself have been growing in popularity.

They key is to arrive before sunset and relax with a nice cold beer while you peruse the menu before flashlights become necessary.

Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Phatu Nokyung, Maharaj Rd., 02-221-9158/9. Open Mon-Thu 11am-10pm; FriSun 11am-11pm

ABOVE RIVA Riva Surya boutique hotel’s Babble & Rum restaurant is a regular fixture on lists of Bangkok’s best riverside venues. Now its sister hotel, Riva Arun, has popped up in Tha Tien (the area right opposite Wat Arun), offering this rooftop bar and restaurant with equally scenic views of the Chao Phraya River.

Head up the four floors and you’ll be greeted by a nearly-entirely alfresco terrace where simple white tablecloths set a tone that’s classy but relaxed. Up here, it’s all about those views, and practically every table in the place has a prime front seat.

4/F, Riva Arun, 392/25-26 Maharaj Rd., 02-221-1188.

Open daily 7:30-11:30am, 6-11:30pm

Steve Cafe and Cruisine

ATTITUDE This bar-slash-restaurant shares the top floor with a swimming pool, on the 26th floor, both of which maximize the river view and city scape. A big, wellstocked bar stands up front among outdoor tables, offering booze to both swimmers and diners. The open-plan kitchen to the right of the bar also offers a few counter seats. As for the dining room, it’s all flashy lighting and decor that sits between hotel fine-dining and a fun casual place. Those who just want a drink should grab one of the daybeds primed for river views.

Avani Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-4319100. Open daily 5:30pm-1am

Above Riva

STAY COOL WHEREVER YOU GO WITH THE NEW SINGHA ICE PACK Whether you’re headed to the beach or throwing a barbecue in your backyard, Singha has a new beer pack that changes everything. Its clever design allows you to pour ice directly into the box, so that your beer stays frosty cold despite the crushing summer heat. See, it’s possible to leave the comfort of your air-con in the summer. You just need to pack the right stuff.

The Deck

Brought to you by Singha

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bites

OPEN DOOR

Phed Phed

Ari’s contender for the coolest Isaan restaurant in town.

The buzz: When the owners of bag brand Mongrest, Nattaphong Saehu and Nuthakorn Jivarungsinee, decided to open a shop to offer repairs and pick-up of orders, they thought they should maximize the space by serving some food. This homey Isaan restaurant has quickly become an Ari favorite, requiring bookings for peak lunch and dinner hours.

The decor: This 24-seater is not your usual Isaan shop-house restaurant. The cool blue-toned decor, marble table tops and plant life contrast with the hot and spicy food served here, while a few handmade cushions and products stylishly show off the venue's designer pedigree.

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The food and drinks: Nattaphong draws on his Nakhon Phanom roots, offering made-from-scratch dishes featuring house-made curry pastes and fermented delights: crabs, plara (fish), naem (pork) and Isaan sausages. The menu packs more than 20 varieties of somtam—from classic tam Thai (B60) to Isaan-style tam dong dang (with short rice noodles instead of papaya, B85) and gao lao pu (crab somtam without papaya, B100)—on top of other Isaan staples like larb (herbal, minced meat salad, from B90) and tom saep (spicy clear soup, B95). Aside from authentic Isaan dishes, they also serve home-style twists like grilled pork neck salad with spicy dressing (B110) and stir-fried mushrooms with cashew nuts, garlic and dried chili (B95). Single diners can go for the Mama tom saep moo yer (B100), where instant

noodles, Vietnamese-style pork sausage, pork balls and softboiled egg are added to a bowl of tom saep. Do note, they use an eight-chili-pepper heat level as the baseline here—so better order up some drinks like water (B15), juices (B35), mixed berries soda (B55), or Thai Craft Beer (ask the counter).

Why you should care: Phahon Yothin Soi 8 is a secret Thai food haven, headlined by a branch of Southern favorite Khua Kling + Paksod and the low-key-yet-so-good Yang Gao Gorn (a traditional Thai place). Now this new Isaan place only adds to the area’s credentials. The prices here are very reasonable, too. Natcha Sanguankiattichai Phahon Yothin Soi 8, 097-918-1175. Open Mon-Sat 11:00am-8:00pm.

BTS Ari

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Fab Lab

Looktor Norliang

Kiaw Kai Ga

NEW AND NOTED

Glasshouse Flair Set in a glasshouse replete with tropical touches, Kiaw Kai Ga (33 Nakniwas Rd., 095-949-9299) is a new reason to brave the congested traffic of Ladphrao. The hanging ferns, bananaleaf wallpaper and vintage parquet floors are complemented by rustic Thai food from all around the country. Chef Nathawut Nantakaem (formerly of The Never Ending Summer) serves the likes of gaeng hung lay (Northern Thai curry, B220), made from a recipe picked up in Phrae, and yum pak kood (B180), made with an edible fern from the chef’s own garden in Ratchaburi. For dessert, savor the creamy taste of the butterfly pea ice cream (B85).

Fab Combo Multi-label store Fab Lab has opened a new branch on Ekkamai that looks to merge food and fashion. Fab Lab Cafe (126/43 Sukhumvit Soi 63, 094-323-3555. www.fb.com/fablabcafebkk) spotlights a photogenic selection of all-day breakfast dishes like the egg and bacon stuffed croissant (B320), as well as light

meals such as Caesar salad with onsen egg (B210) and white wine seafood spaghetti (B360). Drinks like the Thai milk tea cubes and tubes (B160) come served in laboratory glassware, while the mango sticky rice served on flat marble (B170) is almost too beautiful to eat.

Made in Phang-nga There’s a new spot for affordable Southern Thai cuisine on Silom. Looktor Norliang (16/6 Silom Soi 3, 098-141-5151. www.fb.com/looktorNL) serves old-school recipes like kanomjeen namya poo ( cold noodles with crab curry, B160), hot-andsour nam choob (Phang-nga-made shrimp paste, B120) and deep-fried pla rang fish (B150) from the Andaman coast. The most searing flavors come in the pad sator goong (stir-fried stinky green beans with prawn, B120), with its abundance of bird’s eye chilies. The atmosphere is laidback and the decor pretty barebones, making for prices far more affordable than familiar names in Thonglor like Baan Ice and Phuket Town.

TABLE TALK

Teraoka Gyoza G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7676. Open daily 10am-10pm The izakaya-style Teraoka Gyoza boasts of its seven-time gyoza champion from Gyoza Stadium in Tokyo, who serves specialties like sudachi gyoza (chicken gyoza with black pepper and lime juice dip), mentai cheese gyoza (chicken gyoza topped with cheese and fish roe sauce) and hiyachi gyoza (chilled crunchy gyoza with bonito dashi jelly and a dash of lime)—a superrefreshing appetizer.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 500 or more / sales slip (only at Siam Paragon branch) Today – 31 Oct 17

Kasidit Srivilai

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bites FOOD REVIEWS

Savelberg HHHH French. 110 Wireless Rd., 02-252-8001. Open Mon-Sat, 12-2:30pm, 6-10pm. F E BBBB

As a chef-proprietor, Henk Savelberg held one Michelin star in Amsterdam before moving his restaurant to Bangkok. With its vast expanses of glass and highceilings, the incarnation at Oriental Residence feels spacious and open, but not particularly intimate. Service is impeccable and comes complete with the requisite French-speaking maitre d’ (who’s also the sommelier). If pressed for a label, French is also how we’d describe the delicate and delicious food. Just don’t go expecting coq au vin. The kitchen’s daintily-plated creations, much of it seafood, mostly stick to a light and citruscentric palette. Umami notes are rare— almost no beef or lamb in Savelberg’s three multi-course menus—and so are aromatics (herbs, garlic, spices). The results are subtle yet immensely satisfying. Opening the eight-course menu, the “egg with caviar” (30g for B2,700 a la carte) is refreshing, salty and

Tori Tama HHHH Japanese. Park Lane, 18 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-382-0141. Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm.

Corkage B500 F H BBB

Tori Tama in Shirokane, Tokyo, is a neighborhood yakitori (chicken skewers) joint with a difference. Awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2016, the restaurant offers the widest range of chicken parts you’ve ever seen. Advance reservations there are a must. While most yakitori places stick to breast, thigh, wings, gizzard and liver, Tori Tama serves virtually every part of the chicken including delicacies like misaki (hen’s tail, B120) and “chicken oyster” (the dark meat close to the thigh, B120)—a menu of some 28 parts, not including specials (chicken sashimi, anyone?). The Nov 2016 opening in Bangkok follows branches in Singapore and Hong Kong to go with the three in Tokyo. Here, your skewers are grilled over largely smokeless bincho-tan charcoal in an open kitchen right before you. With its blond-wood, U-shaped counter and glass display cases, the place resembles a sleek omakase

INTERN WITH US! (EDITORIAL, MARKETING AND ART DEPT.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume.

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creamy, its accompanying cold potato base ever-so-slightly tinged with leek. It takes two more dishes before Savelberg works up the audacity to throw a sauce antiboise (with monkfish, B2,100) at you, whose very light tomato sauce may actually have had a run-in with a shallot.

That’s not to say his dishes don’t pack bright, shiny flavors. The lobster salad (B1,300) balances bitter frisee, fragrant strawberries and the unique flavor of white asparagus. The raw oyster (B250) explodes with the sharp acidity of passion fruit foam and the green melon flavors of cucumber. In a break with current trends, the origin of most of his produce isn’t mentioned. Still, you’ll notice the chicken is French Label Rouge, the turbot from the North Sea, the cheeses Dutch. And wherever the rest is coming from, it’s all great stuff. Savelberg’s deep knowledge of traditional French cooking styles is readily apparent, but he also gets a bit playful here and there: a spherized amuse bouche or dessert, the occasional foam. The a la carte prices are terrifying (and an espresso costs B330) but the four-course menu is B3,000, the sixcourse B3,700 and the eight-course B5,000. That’s darn reasonable compared to Joel Robuchon’s B7,500 degustation menu. Why Savelberg dropped out of our very own Top Tables 2017 is a mystery and an injustice. So here we are, disagreeing with our panelists: Savelberg is one of Bangkok’s very best fine-dining restaurants.

sushi restaurant. Here, too, you can leave it up to the chef with one of three o-susume menus (5, 7 or 10 skewers plus sides and dessert, B300/B450/B600).

With skewers starting from just B60, though, it’s just as easy to take the a la carte route. Plus you have the guidance of two colorful chicken illustrations on the wall to guide you. We’re amazed how they do so much with seemingly so little: a sprinkle of salt or a subtle miso paste working wonders. From the lightly charred, oh-so-juicy thigh (B60) to the crisp, slightly caramelized hen’s tail, or the unbelievably smooth liver (B80), the chicken is so good it outshines the premium-priced wagyu (B290). A side dish of mixed pickled vegetables (B150) makes for an excellent palate cleanser between skewers. There’s also a limited selection of salads and rice bowls, including the flavor-packed Tori Tama donburi (B170/B270), a rice bowl which comes with a poached egg, ground chicken and grilled chicken thigh topped with shredded nori strips for a tinge of sweetness. Like the Singapore branch, Bangkok’s Tori Tama comes paired with sister sake bar Orihara Shoten, which is accessible through a little door near the entrance. That means you’ve basically got the best selection of sake and shochu in town (from B180/glass) to go with the best yakitori—even if Bangkok, outside of Sukhumvit’s Japanese salarymen, hasn’t totally caught on yet.

Ratings

Price guide

PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Symbols

H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music

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now FRI Trail Mix Ta k e a s t ro l l d o w n S o i Nana's shophouses (just off Charoenkrung Rd.) this May 14, 1pm, when the Soi Nana Craft + Jumble Trail returns. Expect a yard sale atmosphere with stalls selling products ranging from vintage clothing to original art. While you're there, be sure to check out the streak of new Chinese-themed bars that have popped up in the hood, including Pijiu, FooJohn and Ba Hao.

Ba Hao

MON High Rez '80s music fans will not want to miss their chance to catch British duo Underworld live this May 13 at the brand new arts and music festival Super Summer Sound which will be taking over the grounds of Asiatique the Riverfront (2194 Charoenkrung Rd.). With this event being the brainchild of starchitect Duangrit Bunnag, there's good reason to expect nothing but quality. Tickets are B2,800-5,800 at Eventpop.me.

SAT Fond Farewell They say all good things must come to an end and that seems to be the case for local rock band Degaruda, who are calling it a day after four and a half years together. Catch them for one last gig this May 13 at Soy Sauce Bar (11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24) where they'll be playing their biggest hits alongside plenty of food and beer. B200 at the door.

NIGHTLIFE SPACEJAM FESTIVAL 2017

PHATFUNK & ABSOLUT FT. STRAY

EARLY MOLAM SOUND

STRAIGHT OUTTA BANGKOK

The Zaap party team throws a brand new party dedicated to EDM, future bass and trap, featuring beats from international DJs Headhunterz, Jauz and Shapov among the huge lineup. May 12, 7pm. BITEC, 88 Bang Na-Trat Rd., 02-749-3939. B2,100. BTS Bang Na.

The British DJ from Exit Records spins drum ‘n’ bass with support from local DJs Azek, Instinct, DeLorean, Pichy and Will. Open bar from 9-11pm. May 12, 9pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-0611117. B350. BTS Chong Nonsi.

ToomTurn Molam Group perform acoustic instrumental sounds as part of the bar’s weekly midweek molam night.

May 17, 9:30pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200. BTS Thong Lo.

Local hip-hop talents Liverate P & Ocean Mood, Kubon Boyz, Sean Carter, Ramsey Judson and Plz perform a live rap battle accompanied by plenty of hip-hop beats. May 20, 9pm. Overstay, Charan Sanit Wong Soi 80-82, 02-883-4836. B150.

AFRICAN FUNK AND DISCO

ELECTRONIC FLAVOURS WITH JULES BLONS

Ben Rau

WTF Bar & Gallery’s Christopher Wise take over the decks with funky African beats. May 12, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Free.

BTS Thong Lo.

DJ Jules Blons spins techno and deep house beats as part of the bar’s party series dedicated to electronic music.

May 13, 10pm. Base Bar, 3/28 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 099-401-4421. Free.

BEN RAU

THE LIFE OF KANYE

Headhunterz

The London-based German DJ from Fuse Records makes his Bangkok debut with a night of deep melodic house tracks. Support from DJ Boris Rubin.

May 12, 9pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B250-350.

MRT Sukhumvit.

The board game bar continues its fancy dress parties dedicated to specific artists, with this night dedicated to music

by American rapper Kanye West. May 13, 10pm. Game Over, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-1707684. B250.

THIRD PARTY

The British EDM duo, best known for their hit collaboration track "Lions in the Wild" with Martin Garrix, make their Bangkok debut. May 18, 9pm.

Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246, 095-248-3897.

Free. BTS Nana.

DENIS BEYER & ZEEK

The Danish and Thai DJs join DJ Mendy Indigo for her monthly party series dedicated to the best of techno music.

May 18, 10pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B250. MRT Sukhumvit.

GAY NIGHT WITH STUDIO 54 THEME

Pangina Heals and her crew perform a live drag queen show with disco music from the ‘70s through ‘90s from DJs Yui Truluv and Steven G. Freeflow drinks between 7-9PM for B500. May 21, 7pm. Maggie Choo's, underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. B300 (includes one drink). BTS Surasak

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UPCOMING CONCERTS

Cigarettes After Sex

classical

Nelly

concerts

gigs

WINDOW TO SWITZERLAND

SUPER SUMMER SOUND 2017

The Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra, along with guest flutist Sebastian Jacot and conductor Claude Villaret, perform pieces by composers from Switzerland. May 12-13, 4pm. Prince Mahidol Hall, Mahidol University (Salaya Campus), 25/25 Buddhamonthon Sai 4 Rd. B100-500.

A brand new arts and music festival combining the works of local and international artists with the sound of electronic trance music, including a live performance from the hit ‘80s British duo Underworld. May 13, 4pm. B2,800-5,800.

SANGSOM PRESENTS FUNG JAI FUNG JUN - EP 2

“HERO'S JOURNEY: A BEETHOVEN OD

Pianist Elissa Miller-Kay performs Beethoven’s famous pieces, with selections from the early, middle and late phases of his career. May 17, 7pm. Princess Galyani Vadhana Institute of Music, 2010 Arun Amarin Soi 36, 02-447-8597. Free.

NELLY

The American rapper and singer best known for his hits including "Hot in Herre," "Dilemma" and "Work It," makes his Bangkok debut as part of the concert leading up to the official Golden Axe Music Festival. May 17, 11:21am. Muang Thai GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/1 Rama 1 Rd. B1,500 from Thaiticketmajor. BTS Chit Lom.

RBSO TRIBUTE CONCERT

The Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, along with Russian pianist Andrey Gugnin, perform pieces in tribute to the Memory of HRH Princess Galyani Vadhana. Tickets at bit. ly/2oW6GVj May 21, 8pm. Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-262-3456. B400-2,000. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre.

Music zine Fungjai hosts a night of live music featuring performances from Telex Telexs, Sole, River Rhyme and Yellow Fang. Tickets available at all 7-Eleven branches around the city. May 12, 5pm. Play Yard by Studio Bar, Lad Phrao Soi 8, 081173-3616, 085-146-8017, 086-8668869. B350.

THE MASHUP

A night of live reggae, punk rock and world music from local bands Plush Fish, Anti Pants and Bangkok Riddim Syndicate. May 13, 9pm.

Overstay, Charan Sanit Wong Soi 80-82, 02-883-4836. Free.

SUNDAY NIGHT ROCK REVIVAL

LATIN AMERICAN MUSIC NIGHT

Conductor Claude Villaret and guest violinist Raul Teo Arias perform select Latin American compositions with The Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra. May 19-20, 4pm. Prince Mahidol Hall, Mahidol University (Salaya Campus), 25/25 Buddhamonthon Sai 4 Rd. B100-500.

CIGARETTES AFTER SEX

For their third concert of the year as part of their Singha Light live series, Have You Heard? brings the American ambient pop band, who made a name for themselves through their hit Youtube videos, promising performances of singles like "Affection" and "K." May 19, 7pm. Voice Space, BBD Building, 197 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02-261-3883. B1,300.

CRYSTAL CASTLES

The Canadian electro group bring their unique homemade synthpop, electropunk sound to Bangkok , promising performances of hit songs like "Not in Love’ and "Crimewave".

May 20, 7pm. Live RCA Bangkok, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-974-6974.

B950-1,200.

BRITNEY SPEARS

The American pop diva makes her long-awaited Bangkok debut as part of her world tour to promote her ninth studio album, Glory, promising performances of new hit singles like "Make Me..." through to ‘00s favorites like "Toxic" and "Oops... I Did it Again." Jun 24, 6pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455. B3,500 from Thaiticketmajor.

Join local rock bands Flammable Goods, The Young Wolf, God Hates and Deadtown Trash for a night of live music. May 14, 8pm. Fatty's Bar & Diner, 598/66 Asoke Din Daeng Rd., 081-438 7221, 02-2452965. Free.

SHAWN MENDES

The Canadian singer and songwriter makes his Bangkok debut as part of his world tour to promote his second album, Illuminate, which includes hits like "Mercy" and "Treat You Better." Tickets go on sale May 12 Dec 11, 6pm.

Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455. B2,000 from Thaiticketmajor.

TALK

Cities of Cultural Exchange

DYGL

The Japanese garage rock band make their Bangkok debut to celebrate the release of their first album, Say Goodbye to Memory Den. May 21, 7pm. Play Yard by Studio Bar, Lad Phrao Soi 8, 081-173-3616, 085-146 -8017, 086 -866 -8869.

B300-350.

PLAN AHEAD Oh Wonder More good news for Bangkok's indie music fans as British electro-pop duo Oh Wonder will perform their first concert in Bangkok this Aug 1, as confirmed by concert organizers Viji Corp.

Josephine Vander Gucht and Anthony West began recording music back in Sep 2014, releasing EPs on Soundcloud before becoming a hit after the release of melodic tunes like "Without You," "Drive," and "Livewire." The duo have also just recently released two new tracks, "Ultralife" and "Lifetimes." Their second full album, Ultralife, is set to be released this Jun 16.

Ticket prices will be announced soon and available via Thaiticketmajor.com. Follow the latest updates on www.vijicorp.com.

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The Bangkok River Exchange, in collaboration with the British Council, returns this May 16 for another edition of its panel discussion nights. This installment, dubbed “Cities of Culture Exchange,” discusses the importance of art exhibitions, concerts, festivals, literary talks and craft markets as significant drivers of a city’s growth. It aims to use the UK’s Liverpool as a case study to show how a boom in culture, for instance with the Beatles in the 1950s and the success of the Liverpool football team, helped the city develop as a globally recognized destination in the world. With that comes a discussion about Bangkok and its growing love affair with music and weekend festivals.

Speakers include Claire McColgan (director of culture at the Liverpool City Council), Pete Phornprapa (executive vice president of Siam Motors Group and co-founder of Wonderfruit Festival) and Py Muenprasertdee (co-founder and community manager of Fungjai).

Free entry. May 16, 2pm. RCB Artery, 1/F, River City Bangkok, Charoenkrung Soi 24

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now FILM

ART

Opening (May 11)

THE CROWD

DRYOPES

Chinese artist Zhi Lin presents a series of black and white paintings capturing his signature character as he journeys through life. Through May 31. Midnice Gallery, Chok Chai Soi 8, 086-282-0282.

Curated by gallery owner Manit Sriwanichpoom, photographer and independent filmmaker Shane Bunnag’s latest project captures the natural elements of his childhood home in the Greek peninsular Mani. May 12-Jun 24. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700.

KING ARTHUR LEGEND OF THE SWORD (USA)

Action. Kidnapped at birth with no idea of who he really is, a young boy who grew up in the back alleys of the city is forced to acknowledge his true legacy. Starring Jude Law and Charlie Hunnam.

COLOSSAL (USA)

Action/Comedy. Gloria (Ann Hathaway), a constant partier and drinker, discovers a gigantic monster rampaging through Seoul may be the result of her actions.

ALIEN COVENANT (USA)

Thriller. Members of a colony ship traveling to a remote planet on the far side of the galaxy discover an uncharted land filled with deadly aliens.

Directed by Ridley Scott.

Upcoming (May 18) LR

MY FANTASY WORLD 0.000000000123456789

Wisut Ponnimit’s latest exhibition invites the audience on an immersive experience following his iconic Nogn Mamuang character on her journey in making important life decisions. Through Jun 18. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725.

Thepmetha Thepboonta’s second solo exhibition combines his latest graphic and cartoon works in a series that breaks down traditional gender norms and divisions. Through May 31. Bridge, Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086-986-9421.

UNLOCKED (USA)

DEAREST SISTER (LAOS)

Action. After being tricked into providing information to the wrong side, a CIA interrogator finds herself at the center of an attack in London.

Drama/Horror. A young girl is forced to take care of her blind relative who often sees visions of spirits around the house.

THE 100TH LOVE WITH YOU (JAPAN)

NEVER NEVER LAND

REFRAMED BY MICAELA MARINI HIGGS

A group exhibition in which 12 local and international artists were invited to consider a society void of the many fundamental elements that make up the world to day, including the internet, religion, money and corruption. Through Jun 20. WTF Gallery & Cafe, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246.

Argentinan/American artist Micaela Marini Higgs’ series of analogue collages reassembles images cut from Thai magazines into surrealist scenes. May 12-14, 6pm. Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.

Drama . Following a car accident, a university student wakes up in a classroom one week before the event and discovers that her friend has turned back time to rescue her.

SPECIAL SCREENINGS Cinema Diverse

SALES & FAIRS BANGKOK FARMERS' MARKET

The regular farmers' market returns, promising booths selling everything from organic artisan breads to handmade clothing from local small-scale producers. Gateway Ekamai, 982/22 Sukhumvit Rd. May 13-14, 11am.

BTS Ekkamai.

Bangkok Farmer's Market

Book Sale

SOI NANA CRAFT AND JUMBLE SALE

Residents of Chinatown's hip Soi Nana open up their shop-houses for the return of the yard sale which invites everyone in the area to buy and sell goods ranging from vintage clothing, furniture and original art to homemade food. May 14, 1pm. Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong.

BOOK SALE

A used book sale, where both English and Thai used books can be bought for as little as B20 each. All proceeds to go towards the maintenance and renovation of the historic library. May 20-21, 11am. Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd., 02-233-1731.

RUBBERS REBEL GROUND

Motorbike lovers won't want to miss this massive open-air fair showcasing all the latest from popular auto industries, plus a huge test-drive area to go for a spin yourself. Cheeze Market will also be there with their trendy stalls selling fashion picks from local brands. May 19-21, 4pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455.

This May 20 sees the return of the popular film festival Cinema Diverse, which asks local film directors and producers to select independent films from around the region to showcase alongside a live discussion. The first installment is a screening of Vietnamese director Ngyun Hoang Diep’s film Flapping in the Middle of Nowhere, which follows the life of a teenage Vietnamese girl who unintentionally falls pregnant and is forced into prostitution to fund her abortion.

The selection was made by film editor Chonlasit Upanigkit, who has worked on films like Mary is Happy, Mary is Happy, Porn Jak Fah and Freelance. He’ll be hosting a discussion about the film after the screening, covering topics like social oppression, abortion, prostitution and sexuality.

B60. Screening starts at 5pm. Bangkok Art And Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02214-6630

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