BK Magazine 703 18 August, 2017

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Two years later

BK MAGAZINE NO. 703 FRIDAY, AUGUST 18, 2017. www.bkmagazine.com

OUT WITH THE old

The riverside communities making way for the Chao Phraya promenade

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page 3 6 cover story

River Talk

What We’ve Learned

4 upfront

8 escapes

Zero Waste

Up the Mountain 12 avenue

14 blends

New Threads

Beer Haunt

That Spotify is really, truly about to launch in Thailand We all saw the ad for a Music Editor from Thailand back in May. Now it’s official: the Swedish music-streaming giant is definitely ready to open here. Some sort of launch event is set for Aug 22, so it should be sooner rather than later.

16 bites

20 bk now

Taste of the North

What’s on in Bangkok

Who's in charge? Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Staff Writer Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Theerada Moonsiri, Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon Junior Writers Neon Boonyadhammakul, Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kasidit Srivilai, Kankanok Wichiantanon Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Video Content Manager Chanon Wongsatayanont Photographer Chissanupong Narmmoolnark Video Editor Tanaporn Choopanya Media Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group

Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Sales Associates Pichayarak Chalermchainukul Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat Project Coordinators Nutnicha Nuttanakorn, Peerada Chotiya Senior Developer Jinin Jaengkitsopon Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Administrator Yaovaluck Srisermsri Accountant Manita Bangmoung

Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

That there’s hope yet for BTS Saphan Taksin The Bangkok Metropolitan Authority (BMA) is set to splash out B1 billion on expanding the only single-track stretch of the BTS line. Opened in 1999, BTS Saphan Taksin was initially intended only to be temporary and the BMA has regularly threatened it with demolition. Now, though, it looks like a 27-month project will culminate in a second set of tracks over the Chao Phraya River. Construction is set to start next February with completion slated for 2019.

Contributors Kathy MacLeod Interns Saruttaya Jitprapai, Narisa Lin, Koraporn Kanchanabudhu, Baitoey Karntimon, Siriya Suriyanon Cover Photo by Chissanupong Narmmoolnark Cover Design By Peeraya Sirathanisa

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07-02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 Email: contact@asia-city.com.sg

That craft beer bar-hopping is becoming a thing Craft beer importer Smiling Mad Dog won’t have you sitting around and drinking at home. It’s launching a new series of beer bar-hopping events, the first of which kicks off at 5pm on Aug 19, and stops off at four of Sukhumvit’s top beer haunts: Hair of the Dog Phrom Phong, HOBs Rain Hill, Bottles of Beer and Taproom. The B1,700 ticket gets you 12 glasses of beer like Kona Big Wave Golden Ale and Evil Twin Even More Jesus (a whopping 12% ABV), four souvenir glasses, a T-shirt and vans to shuttle you safely to each bar. Get involved at www.fb.com/smilingmaddog. That more K-pop royalty is heading our way Last month, G-Dragon came to Bangkok; next month it’s his Big Bang bandmate Taeyang. He’ll drop by Bangkok as part of a solo tour to promote his new album, White Night, which is set to drop later this month. No word on ticket prices yet, but the show is set to happen on Sep 30 at Impact Challenger Hall. That fairies are hiding free books around Bangkok Next time you head to the BTS station you could be in for a nice surprise. The Book Fairies campaign, which grabbed headlines when British actress Emma Watson left copies of books around London, Paris and New York, has reached Bangkok. After finishing a book, readers are then supposed to pass it on to others. Titles and drop-off locations are announced via Facebook, Twitter and Instagram—look up The Book Fairies Bangkok.

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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@bkmagazine BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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upfront HOT OR NOT

Hot: Art on skywalk Not: Art on skytrain Siam’s new skywalk is finally open (see page 22). Now while you’re making that mad dash between MBK and Siam Discovery you can seek shade under a series of giant lily pads and admire the handiwork of 13 local street artists. It all makes for a nice, twee shake-up from last month’s makeover of a BTS train, where artist Kamin Lertchaiprasert’s ying-yang logos and skeletons looked eerily like what a tank-topped tourist might get tattooed while off their head on Khao San.

INTERVIEW

Hot: Clean energy

Not: Clean air

Thailand can be proud to say it’s home to the world’s tallest wind turbines, recently built at the Sarahnlom wind farm in Nakhon Ratchasima. In other news, 10 provinces, including Bangkok, just failed a Greenpeace clear air test—and it only surveyed 14. According to worldwide rankings, Thailand is now one of the best countries for renewable energy production, and one of the worst for carbon emissions per capita. How is that possible? Thailand 4.0!

Hot: Chicken

Not: Beer

ThaiBev’s B11.3 billion purchase of 240 KFC restaurants and branches under development theoretically brings us one step closer to Chang beer-battered wings zabb, quite possibly the fast-food frankenstein to rule them all. Mmm. We can see the IG captions already—not that we’d risk checking-in to anything even vaguely related to beer these days.

Hot: Jungle chic

Not: Industrial chic

Two of Bangkok’s most exciting new restaurants of the week, Cafe de Cuisine and Rock Restaurant (see page 14), are trying something novel. They’re saying goodbye to Edison bulbs, subway tiles and stripped floors, and hello to uprooted tree trunks and great, big hunks of stone. We’re not sure how well this sudden shift will go down with Ekkamai coffee shop owners, but we’re just grateful for the break from New York.

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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#DeathbyPlastic is a new campaign by Bangkok-based Norwegian photographer Ben Zander that’s aimed at reducing plastic waste. Best known locally as a fashion photographer, Zander is calling on influential figures to pose in front of various disturbingly real waste sites—complete with plastic bags over their heads. He’s looking to raise B400,000 to fund 10 of these photoshoots, with big names already on board including muay Thai legend Buakaw Banchamek, MC Dandee Supwattana (Bangkok Invaders) and model Penny J. Lane (The Face Thailand). Eventually, these photos will be exhibited and auctioned off, with proceeds put towards the lofty goal of replacing 7-Eleven’s plastic bags with paper ones. What drew you to tackle a subject like plastic waste? I am also a sociologist and author. For a while, photography was a much-needed break from words and politics, but I guess in the end, sociology forced its way back, this time though with photography as the medium. With #DeathbyPlastic, I had been contemplating photographing human heads wrapped in plastic just as an artistic concept. At the same time, all the plastic thrown at me in different shops—Big C, 7-Eleven—really started to annoy me.

thinking about this Facebook video filmed by a proud daughter, eager to show how kind her mother was, driving to the suburbs of Bangkok to feed stray dogs. And then, after feeding the dogs, throwing the plastic bags they carried the food in, on the ground, together with the other plastic waste there. Both generations were completely oblivious to the fact that this was damaging to the environment, people and animals. Middle-class people with good hearts and good morals. If they knew, they would not do this.

What do you ultimately hope to achieve with #DeathbyPlastic? Raise awareness and change behavior among Thai consumers. If someone throws away plastic waste in Western Europe, where I am from, chances are the person just doesn’t care, because awareness about the destructiveness of plastic waste is already high. In Thailand it’s different. My impression is that Thais care very much about their country, people and animals. But environmental awareness is very low. I keep

You’re shooting a bunch of wellknown public figures. How were you able to get them involved? Some I knew, some my friends knew. Getting them involved was more a question of explaining the project. For most of them, a realistic chance to use their social media power to do something good for the environment and others is refreshing, and payment enough.

waste in Thailand. The shoot with MC Dandee outside CP’s flagship 7-Eleven store is about consumption and everyday choices. The shoot with Buakaw Banchamek is about illegal dumping in our own neighborhoods. In this case, we only needed to go 400 meters from Buakaw’s gym in Nawamin to find an illegal dumpsite. Penny J. Lane’s shoot by the khlong shows how land-based plastic waste is connected to the oceans. What’s the reaction been like so far? It has been overwhelmingly positive, and as far as I know, a very positive experience for everyone involved in the project. The content seems to touch people. I just wish we had funding. The first video has been shared more than 800 times and altogether we have passed 300,000 views already. Carl Dixon

You can support the project at www. benzander.com/deathbyplastic.

How did you select the shoot locations? The goal is to show different parts of the bigger story of plastic

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

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cover story Voices from the River

Stories from the people who made the Chao Phraya riverbank their home for over three generations. By Neon Boonyadhammakul Visutr Nasawang, 66

from the Wat Soi Thong community

“I heard about the development last year, I think sometime after now: see the house demolished without getting anything at all or Loy Krathong. At that time, my daughter and I were actually relieved leave with the compensation. So now I’m about to be homeless. I’m in because the BMA didn’t include the land where our house sits in their retirement, which means that my daughter makes most of the income project. But not so long after that, an officer came to measure the area in this household, and what do you expect from the average bachelor’s along the riverbank where my house is. I was shocked to see that. degree salary? Fighting with the government is impossible because now I can so easily violate the law. They have I asked what was happening and the officers just said, ‘It’s nothing, we just want to measure "NOW I'M ABOUT TO BE section 44; what do I have? Also, what is this river walk? Who needs it? The officials came and your land, just in case.’ The land belongs to the HOMELESS" told me that this is for the sake of Bangkok. The temple, not the BMA, and I’ve been renting for ages. We pay a few thousand baht annually. Firstly the government project will enhance the view of Bangkok and be positive for tourism. officials came and said we could still stay, the second time they came Seriously? They say I’m now a river intruder but, to be honest, this and told us that we couldn’t stay and that the eviction would happen promenade is going to intrude into the river also, isn’t it?” soon. I don’t know exactly what happened but I only have two choices

Supharat Pothisuwan, 42

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he Bangkok Metropolitan Authority (BMA) has begun its first phase for the construction of the Chao Phraya River Promenade. Originally proposed in 2015, the promenade will see a 14-kilometer (seven kilometers on each side) stretch of the river turned into a cycle lane, public walkway and riverside landmark. Exactly what these plans look like has never been made public, a point of huge contention among groups opposed to the project (see page 7), but still, the government last month began work on the first phase of construction. This resulted in the eviction of five communities living alongside the Chao Phraya’s banks: Pak Klong Bang Khen Mai, Wat Soi Thong, Kiek Kai Pier, Khiew Khai Ka and Wat Chat Kaew Chongkolnee. By the end of the B8.4 billion project, which is earmarked to be complete by 2019, 29 communities will have been evicted. On the day of their eviction (Jul 21), residents from the Wat Soi Thong, Kiek Kai Pier and Pak Klong Bang Khen Mai communities shared with us their lives on the river, and told us what effect the eviction will have on their families. Here are their stories.

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from the Kiek Kai Pier community

“At first, the government officials visited around Loy Krathong [2016] called for all the five communities to gather together, and they got us to tell us that they were reclaiming our land. My mother and I were to sign the eviction papers. We had less than a minute to read through very shocked. The officers said that they wanted the eviction done everything. My income used to be around B5,000 a day because I by July. They returned just one week ago and owned a restaurant by the river selling local gave us one day to move out before they would "THEY GAVE US ONE DAY food, nothing fancy. I converted part of my home tear the house down. We’d been living here for into the restaurant and it was going well. The TO MOVE OUT BEFORE three generations. We felt numb and hopeless, THEY WOULD TEAR OUR house was almost a century old and has never but I also know that I can’t give up. Life goes had any problems. My mother and I understand HOUSE DOWN" on even though we are just small people. You that living here is against the law so we haven’t know the law says that it’s wrong to stay here anyway. The officials protested. We’re thankful that the government has offered all the said that our only choice was to leave, and that we would be better affected people accommodation in the Kiek Kai Flats. We only wish off doing it peacefully with the compensation. They even said to me they could be generous enough to fix the broken doors and windows. that, if Section 44 has to be implemented on us, there’s a high chance My only business has gone forever and we are running out of money.” that we will get nothing—no house, no money. On Jul 1, the officers

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cover story Sunisa Khetgulee, 72

BK ASKS

from the Kiek Kai Pier community "THEY JUST CARRIED OUR LITTLE CHILDREN TO SIT ON THE ROAD LIKE RUBBISH BAGS"

Yossapon Boonsom, founder of Friends of the River, has led the voice of opposition against the river promenade since it was first proposed in 2015.

“I was in the hospital recovering from appendix surgery on the day that the BMA officers came to tell my daughter that my house was to be torn down the following day. I didn’t get to see it happen and I’m glad of that. It’s heartbreaking. My daughter told me about the Kiek Kai Flats arrangement which relieved my sorrow a little. I mean, I’ve lived in that house since I was born. My mom died in that house in her 90s. The government first visited at the end of last year to tell us that the eviction would happen, but they never told us an exact date. They came once and never came back until one day before the eviction. It wasn’t just our family; they did the same thing to every house in this community, telling us to move out immediately. When they started the eviction, they just carried our little children to sit on the road like rubbish bags. This is a true story: they took my fridge. Everybody understands and has agreed to follow the order. We are not trying to romanticize anything or hold on to anything. We get the situation, but wish it had been more organized and clear. No one has ever seen the plan for the promenade. As you can see yourself, the view isn’t that romantic around here anymore.”

Khemmawan Pleumjitr, 27

from the Pak Klong Bang Khen Mai community "MOST OF THE PEOPLE FROM MY COMMUNITY FOUND OUT ABOUT THE CONSTRUCTION FROM THE NEWS OR ON THE STREET" “To be honest, I would've had no idea about the promenade if I didn’t hear it on the news. Most of the people from my community found out about the construction from the news or on the street. The government never told us about it, even when they came to tell us to move out from our own houses. I don’t know about other communities. Basically, they just came to tell us that our community is breaking the law by living on the riverbank. It’s good that they at least offered us an amount of compensation and a new place to stay. The room they’ve offered me is not too tiny so I’m ok. But getting a job will be really hard. I’ve lived by the river my whole life and I’m just a street vendor selling things in the community. The economy isn’t that good nowadays. I admit that it’s my family’s fault, from generation to generation, that we have lived beside the river. None of us wants to fight, we are not ignorant. We understand the situation and the law and we have to get what is best for us for now.”

Prakij Thamniam, 56

from the Wat Soi Thong community "AFTER THIS I DECIDED TO TAKE MY FAMILY BACK TO MY HOMETOWN IN EASTERN THAILAND. NOTHING IS LEFT FOR US IN BANGKOK ANYWAY" “It’s heartbreaking for us to see our house being torn down. We totally understand that it’s illegal to live in this area so we have never planned to protest or anything. Still, my family has lived in this house for four generations now. It’s been there for 100 years. It’s such a huge goodbye for us. After this I decided to take my family back to my hometown in Eastern Thailand. Nothing is left for us in Bangkok anyway. I can’t afford the rent for sure and I’m not comfortable with moving into the flat that the government is providing. The funny thing is that the government came to tear our house down and then left all the dangerous structures for us to try to tear down ourselves. Now I have to ask our neighbors and my siblings to help me tear these pillars down. Life is a bit funny sometimes, you know.”

“We can’t do anything about the eviction now, as you can see. The government has the right to do so according to the law. Those areas belong to them. However, the government cannot start building anything yet as the parliament has not signed any papers to allow the construction to start, and we are still trying as hard as we can to stop the construction from happening. Also, as they have never revealed any official plans for the construction to the public, we are planning to sue the government. That’s our plan for now, along with organizing events to raise people’s awareness about Chao Phraya river conservation. We recently held the Bangkok River Fair. We are not OK with the government keeping its plan confidential. The plan definitely affects the environment of the river and Bangkokians’ lives in general, so it must be made accessible to the public.”

RIVER TIMELINE

The original idea for the Chao Phraya Promenade stems from the current military government led by Prime Minister Prayuth Chan-o-cha. He is said to have personally initiated the proposal after coming to power in May 2014. In Dec of that year, the cabinet accepted a plan for a 2.5-meter-high, 19.5-meter-wide passageway that included a bike lane. The development would span from Rama VII Bridge to Phra Pinklao Bridge, a total of 14 kilometers. On May 12, 2015, the cabinet voted to build the Chao Phraya river promenade in 18 months, starting Jan 2016. Following strong public outcry, the process was delayed, with no private sector contractors submitting their bid. To ease public concern, the BMA hired King Mongkut's Institute of Technology Ladkrabang (KMITL) and Khon Kaen University (KKU) in Jan 2016 at a cost of B120 million to study and design the river promenade in seven months under the project name Chao Phraya for All. On the weekend of Mar 1819, 2017, the Interior Ministry officially announced that the project would go ahead, and include the eviction of 285 households.

BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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escapes CHIANG MAI

Valley of Plenty Mae Kampong is the hidden Chiang Mai mountain village you always dreamed of visiting. By Kankanok Wichiantanon

Wat Khantha Phueksa

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urrounded by mountains and evergreen jungle, Mae Kampong is a beautiful village just one-and-a-half hours’ drive from Chiang Mai. Separated from the city’s tourism industry, here people still speak in the Northern Thai dialect, while holding onto old conservative traditions, from spending the Buddhist Sabbath together at the temple to preparing traditional Lanna cuisine that’s quite different from the food you might be used to from Chiang Mai.

WHAT TO DO

Trekking

The village sits right in the midst of green-clad hills, which means there are plenty of trekking opportunities to explore. The most popular route takes you to a seven-tier waterfall, though it’s only possible to reach as high as the fourth tier via makeshift stairways. Be sure to ask a villager to accompany you as your guide, and note that when it rains, the trails get pretty slippery.

Wat Khantha Phueksa Serving as a spiritual anchor for the village, this temple has stood in the center of town for more than 85 years. Made of teakwood carved with intricate, traditional patterns, the temple is rustic with a reverential aura, as well as a naturally bright green roof from the moss that thrives in Mae Kampong’s year-round cool and humid climate. Peak through the back and you’ll see its sister temple sitting on the stream that runs through the village.

Flight of the Gibbon The nationwide brand of treetop zipline centers has made a base for itself in Mae Kampong, offering ziplining, climbing and abseiling spread across 30 stations pitched along the forest canopy. Most visitors to Flight of the Gibbon come through day tours that depart from Chiang Mai and cost B2,999 for Thai nationals and foreigners with work permits, including round-trip transfers and lunch. It’s possible to turn up solo, though you’ll have to join one of the other groups and guides, and you also have to pay full price. For foreigners without work permits, the price is B4,000. www.treetopasia.com, 053-010-660

WHERE TO EAT

Mae Nim’s Northern Thai Spicy Sausage People begin waiting in line at midday for Mae Nim’s famous sai oua (Northern Thai spicy sausage) and crispy fried chicken. We managed to eat our way through the entire menu, and absolutely everything was sensational. The restaurant sits in the middle of town, surrounded by hills, so when you’re done eating, you can work off those calories with some cardio work. Huai Kaeo, Mae On District, Chiang Mai, 089-263-5765

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Lung Pud Pa Ped Something of a landmark that every visitor is required to visit, Lung Pud Pa Peng is a rickety-looking house serving breakfast, coffee and sweets. With a balcony jutting out over a little stream, and flowers and plants in the background, this place is perfect for pictures, while dishes like gaeng hang le (Northernstyle curry), roasted pork ribs with mushroom, and chicken wings in fish sauce are hearty and home-cooked.

Flight of the Gibbon

Huai Kaeo, Mae On District, Chiang Mai, 081-847-8043

Chom Nok Chom Mai Coffee Shop Set on the top of a hill, this coffee shop overlooks the whole valley of Mae Kampong village. You have to fight against steep roads to get there, but it's worth the effort, with tasty homemade cakes and fresh coffee roasted on site waiting at the top. From here, it’s just a short walk of about 8-10 minutes to the waterfall. Huai Kaeo, Mae On District, Chiang Mai, 081-847-8043

WHERE TO STAY There are no resorts or hotels, but many of the villagers open their homes to visitors for prices between B500-700/night. You’ll easily find about 20 homestays dotted around the village, with the income generated going towards the local community. Most are traditional wooden houses with no aircon, but with weather in Mae Kampong being mild all year (24 degree Celsius is the hottest it gets in the summer), you don’t really need it. Breakfast is generally included with every stay, but some homes will provide you with lunch and dinner, too. Make a request with your host if you’d like to try any traditional meals, as they can also whip you up dishes that you won’t find elsewhere. Before you go, call the village headman (085-6754598) to secure your homestay in advance.

Homestay

Essentials HOW TO GET THERE

AirAsia flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai start from around B2,300 return. From the airport, head to Warorot Market (Chiang Mai’s central market), where vans leave regularly to Mae Kampong for B150. The drive take 1.30 minutes.

BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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Chic doesn’t come overnight, it takes practice...

ESCAPE ROUTES By Kankanok Wichiantanon www.tourismthailand.org

Learn French or French Fashion Design at Alliance Française Bangkok! Next session: French courses: from October 7th onwards Fashion courses: from September 28th onwards Register now!

Chiang Mai National Museum

CHIANG MAI

Lanna Charms After a four-year renovation, the newly revamped Chiang Mai National Museum (053-221-308. Open Wednesday-Sunday 9am-4pm) is complete. Built in 1969 to house the region’s finest Lanna and Buddhist treasures, the museum, while rough around the edges over the past few years, had always provided one of the richest collections of artwork in Thailand spread across 16 rooms. Now, the beautiful architectural relics and ancient bronze Buddha castings have got the space they deserve, with lighting worthy of the finest international museums, 3D imaging and updated research on each of the exhibits. The star attraction remains Phra Saen Swae, the biggest Buddha Head to be found in the Lanna Kingdom, cast entirely from bronze in the 14th century. Entry price for Thais is B30, and B100 for foreigners.

Early Bird offer:

Register before September 2nd and get a FREE AF Tote Bag with this coupon! info.bangkok@afthailande.org

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BALI

Feeling Blue If you’re making plans to visit Bali’s modish, high-end party strip, Seminyak, before the island’s peak season runs down (rains hit in earnest around Dec), then check out this new abode from Intercon’s trendy young sister brand. Hotel InHotel Indigo Seminyak digo Seminyak (seminyak. hotelindigo.com) creatively interprets Balinese art and design through vibrant colors and local textiles—all from a prime stretch of the beach. Rooms start from B8,000/night, but you’ll want one of the 19 villas (starting around B18,500 /night) if you’re to enjoy your own private pool, whirlpool, walk-in closet and spa-like bathroom.

SERINA TEPPANYAKI JAPANESE DINING

JAPAN

Trunk Show Not far from neon-lit Shibuya, the boutique Trunk Hotel (trunk-hotel.com) is like a contemporary piece of art, each of its 14 rooms providing a one-of-a-kind atmosphere just 11 minutes’ walk from JR Shibuya Station. The single, Trunk Hotel studio-style rooms cost from around B9,900/night and offer a beautiful taste of designer living in downtown Tokyo, while the Living Suite is your chance to experience the loft-conversion dream at B33,000/night (sleeps six). All the hotel’s amenities and products come from local shops, whose owners you’re likely to find drinking and mingling in the adjoining bar-meets-coworking space.

FLIGHTS

Passage to India Good news for fans of majestic maharaja palaces lost in breathtaking desert landscapes; AirAsia just launched direct routes from Bangkok to Jaipur, India. Regular rates set you back from B6,457 return. That’s not all. The budget airline has also started a new route going to Tiruchirappalli, a city in India’s southeast that’s blessed with stunning Hindu temples (think Wat Kaek times a thousand). Flights there cost around B6,480 return.

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Yaki soba. 450THB

Hiroshima Oyster fry 280THB

Chicken Steak. 380THB

This over-30-year-old Japanese restaurant is Silom’s best kept secret. Old Japanese recipes are alive here with beautiful local produce and imported meat, shining honestly on your plates. At B2,250 per set, you’ll get 150g of teppanyaki Kobe wagyu accompanied by fresh sashimi, salad, soup, grilled vegetable, garlic rice and a scoop of homemade fresh strawberry sorbet. Or get same set with 150g US Black Angus beef at B1,650. SERINA, 9/26 Surawong Soi Jim Thompson, Bangkok, Thailand

Reservation: 02-235-8382 BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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avenue SHOPPING

African Aesthetics Another Story, one of Bangkok’s coolest concept stores, spotlights Africa-inspired design through a pop-up until Sep 30. Thirty globally trending brands showcase the continent’s craftsmanship and rich culture, from Delasebure’s vibrant print T-shirts (B2,730), kimonos (B3,635) and jumpsuits (B3,635) to the adorable African-inspired graphic notebook of Paris’s Papier Tigre (B570). Also check out Indego Africa’s intricate woven baskets (B3,648) made out of sweetgrass and sisal by craftspeople in Rwanda and Ghana to bring a little Africa into your home. 4/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

FASHION

Hand it Over Italian handbag and accessories brand Coccinelle’s new fall/ winter collection, Aristo-street, aims to make your wardrobe pop. Inspired by vibrant Japanese graphics, this season’s bags revolve around fun themes such as “Ginza Queen,” adopting Ginza district’s cherry blossoms and turning them into beautiful floral embroidery in items like the Ambrine bag (B25,900). “Toylike Princess,” meanwhile, gives off a youthful spirit and somewhat psychedelic feel through multicolor suede block patterns. Apply it to their classic Arlettis bag (B13,900) for the perfect balance of fun and elegance. 2/F, Central Chidlom, Phloen Chit Rd., 091-120-2872. Open 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

GYM

Max Power Maxfit Performance, a gym that specializes in boot camps, personal training and small group sessions, has just relocated from Sukhumvit Soi 26 to Soi 39. You won’t find any exercise machines at this home-like studio, whose back-to-basics routines make use of truck tires, sledge hammers, battle ropes and more to get you in fighting shape. Call ahead for a free consultation with one of the two Australian trainers, who received their qualifications from ACPE Academy back home. It’s B1,500 an hour per private session, while group classes run for B500. 36/7 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-0071006. Open Mon-Fri 6am-9pm; Sat 9am-5pm

COSMETICS

Royal Secrets Local luxe skincare brand Erb, which prides itself on using Thai traditional ingredients and recipes from the Siamese royal court, has come up with a new collection. Erb Seven Pollen spotlights seven different pollens that are packed with antioxidants: baklua, bunnag, sarapee, sacred lotus, jasmine, ylang ylang and champaka. These super-ingredients, combined with other herbs, are said to help with premature aging and protecting the skin against pollution, among other benefits. Try the face detox mask (B2,450), which comes in six capsules for moister skin, the balancing essence (B2,200) for a younger look, or the face cream (B2,950) to revitalize your skin from deep within while restoring elasticity and radiance. Available at 1/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-5680. Open 10am-10pm

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BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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Opening Hour Mon – Fri 9.00 - 21.00 Sat – Sun 8.30 – 21.00

Canberra's best cafe has finally landed in Bangkok.

Tel: 021853258 Facebook: patissezbangkok Order online on Foodpanda and Ubereat

The best brunch and coffee in town. Home of the freakshake and much much more.

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Now Hiring • JR. BRANDED CONTENT WRITER (THAI/ENG) • SUB-EDITOR (ENG) • EVENT SALES MANAGER • MARKETING DIRECTOR • MARKETING EXECUTIVE • TRANSLATOR

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BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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avenue FASHION

For the Fall The latest fall and pre-fall collections from hot Thai designers. By Kasidit Srivilai

Disaya

Pitchana

Sretsis

Vatanika

Vick’s Weekend

Lace, floral prints and applique dominate the fall/winter 2017 collection from dreamy designer Disaya. Inspiration comes from paintings of the Dutch Golden Age of the 17th century, which shows in a range of still-life prints and details like the detachable lace collar. Other highlights include the Rebelace slip dress (B16,950), Butterfly puffy lace dress (B12,500), floral Vanitas Remix midi skirt (B7,550) and metallic and lacey biker jacket (B24,950)

Pitchana Ekachai makes ultra-sultry eveningwear that looks like it walked out of the ’70s and into the ballrooms of Bangkok’s swankiest five-star hotels. Pitchana’s new prefall collection, “Bond Girl,” is also just perfect for that hi-so function whose invite’s been worrying you from your desk all week. White silk gowns with revealing side cutouts (B13,990) carry look-at-me attitude, while the slinky cocktail slip dress with a chained shoulder (B17,990) is strictly for the most daring debutants. Or make a Lois Chiles-worthy statement in a body-hugging velvet jumpsuit (B9,990).

Sretsis’s latest fall/winter collection is something of a greatest hits for the 15-year-old fantasy-loving label. “Sretsis Universe” combines the dreamy embroidery of the Moon Dance skirt (B15,000) with the Hollywood bling of the Pixie jumpsuit (B19,000). For perhaps the first time in the brand’s history there are also notable Thai art touches, like the multi-colored benjarong print that portrays an angel with chada (high Thai crown) on her head while riding a Pegasus. Get it in pieces like a velvet jacket (B16,000)and pants (B12,500)

Another local brand looking for that perfect mix of sophistication and sexiness, Vatanika’s new prefall collection is all about irregular silhouettes and detailing like lace cuffs, cutting-edge zippered sleeves and adjustable seams on dresses and corsets. This season also sees the addition of streetwear pieces like a pullover emblazoned with the text “Mama Didn’t Raise No Fool” (B7,500) and the “Fornever” sweater (B7,500), in colors like burgundy, black and white. Our pick: the Burgundy High Zip Slit Cotton-Blend Mini Dress (B16,500)

2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5874. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sretsis.com

1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6637258. BTS Siam. www.vatanika-design. com

The beautiful Ari boutique of Bangkok-based casualwear brand Vick’s Weekend sits in the shade of Soi 2’s greenery where you’ll find the brand’s fall-winter collection, Weekend Agenda, a minimal, down-toearth series of jumpsuits, dresses, loose tops and pants that plays with Thai textile tradition. Pick up a jumpsuit (B4,150) or checked midi dress (B5,350) in pha khao mah (Thai sarong) checks for a look that’s as at home in the Khon Kaen countryside as it is in a branch of Kuppadeli. Or go with the collection’s more feminine side, as seen in the senorita-like ruffles of the floor-grazing Blossom skirt (B4,750).

2/F, Groove at CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-646-1828. BTS Chit Lom. www.disaya.com

2/F, Central Chidlom, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-655-7862. BTS Chit Lom. www. pitchana.com

Ari Soi 2, 02-331-3196. BTS Ari. www. vicksweekend.com

Top Picks from the New Collections

PIXIE JUMPSUIT, SRETSIS, B19,000

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MOON DANCE SKIRT, SRETSIS, B15,000

ANTHEA SHIRT, VICK'S WEEKEND, B2,850

BLOSSOM SKIRT, VICK'S WEEKEND, B4,750

PULLOVER, VATANIKA, B7,500

MINI DRESS, VATANIKA, B16,500

BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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bites & blends

RESTAURANT

In the Garden The space in Ekkamai previously belonging to Toot Yung and Pandora Art galleries is now home to a new offshoot of Chiang Mai’s nature-inspired restaurant Cuisine de Garden. The design courtesy of architect Sorakit “Mon” Kitcharoenroj (Integrated Field) sees a dining room of dark wood flooring and raw concrete punctuated by actual tree trunks, setting the scene for chef-owner Leelawat “Nan” Mankongtiphan’s food, which is available only in a five-course set dinner (B1,590). Dishes play with various forms and textures of ingredients, like Rain Forest, which combines beef tartare with beef tuile, seasoned cured egg yolk and parsley powder, and Farm, which sees goat milk presented as panna cotta with crispy milk chips and macadamia flower honey. Ekkamai Soi 2, 061-626-2816. Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm (Last order 9:45pm)

RESTAURANT

NEW LOCATION

CAFE

Fresh Arrival

Rock On

Super Smooth

In-the-know foodies are already filling up Instagram with snaps from this city’s latest omakase restaurant. Sushi Niwa is the latest venture from the owner of chain Japanese fusion restaurant Kouen Sushi, whose ex-head chef Somporn Chaibuadaeng helms the kitchen here. In a grand glasshouse, he slices and dices fresh kuruma ebi (tiger prawn) and grilled braised anago (saltwater eel), putting to work skills learned from three months’ training at Sushi Watanabe in Tokyo. As part of the soft opening, a 16-course omakase meal is B4,900 until Aug 26 (after which it’s B6,500). The restaurant will also announce its grand opening with a round of dinners by Hiroki Nakanoue, of Osaka’s two-starred Sushi Yoshi, from Aug 30-Sep 9, with prices jumping to B10,000 and above. Ruamruedee Soi 2, 06-3456-5656. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12am

Rock Restaurant and Bar has left its Ari digs and settled in Soi Ruamrudee. Like at the old location, the decor doesn’t play by Bangkok’s industrial-chic rulebook with large rocks, cow skins and gnarled tree trunks littered about. Chef Thanyathorn Kojaranonta continues to take a pan-Asian approach to the menu, resulting in creative twists to staples like kanom krok (B110), which sees crusty coconut pudding filled with prawn panang curry and kaffir lime leaf, and kanom jeen sawnaam (B280), rice noodles served with fresh coconut-poached prawns, pineapple, young ginger and sour fruit juice. Cocktails stick to theme, such as My Bitter Chinese Mother in Law (chrysanthemum-infused vodka, homemade fennel syrup, crushed green peppercorn and Aperol, B300). 48/8-9 Soi Ruamrudee, 082-688-8200. Open Mon-Sat 5.30pm-midnight

Vita Trade, the supplier of acai pulp puree to top restaurants like Roast, Broccoli Revolution and Brekkie, just opened its own superfood-laden cafe. Vita Cafe specializes in, you guessed it, healthy, acai-based smoothies (B120) and smoothie bowls (B200) that they claim are 100-percent organic. The main ingredient is imported from Brazil and they also boast of local ingredients like super-juicy mangoes from Samut Prakan. Smoothie bowls let you choose your base (almond milk, apple juice or coconut water), fruit combination and other trendy toppings like chia, flax seed, goji berry and cacao. Our fave is the well-balanced peanut butter bowl with banana and mixed frozen berries with a base of almond milk. Soi Prasarnmith, Sukhumvit Rd., 097-298-7435. Open Mon-Fri 8:30am-7pm; Sat 9:30am-5pm BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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blends BARS

Drinking Haunts with a Spooky Edge ON THE BAR

Dok Kaew House Bar

BLACK CABIN Tucked inside the meat-centric restaurant Wild & Co, in the place that was once music and booze institution Stu-fe, Black Cabin Bar rekindles the live music spirit of its predecessor amid a moodily lit cabin vibe of dark red lighting and faux animals. The weekly schedule is packed: Tuesday is dedicated to blues, Thursday to folk and postrock, Friday to experimental electronic house, Saturday to modern soul and Sunday to groovy jazz. Knock back craft beers or strong, frothy cocktails like the White Lies (Mekhong, Aperol, pineapple juice, syrup, lemon juice and egg white, B280), but be warned: everyone is expected to down a shot if someone rings the golden bell by the bar.

Phaya Thai’s new craft beer bar is supposedly haunted. By Neon Boonyadhammakul

33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Rama 4 Rd., 061515-6989. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-1am

The buzz: Taking over an 80-year-old, twostory house out the back of Phaya Thai, this beer bar not only boasts arguably the best selection of local craft brews this side of town, but also some excellent Thai food—to go with the claim it’s haunted. Among the partners at Dok Kaew House Bar are Supot “Pot” Onmark, head of the budding Nectar brewery, and Prapavee “Bamee” Hematat, the guy behind the Beer Wanderlust blog. The decor: This green-toned house comes complete with a balcony prime for chilling with beers under the shade of two big Orange Jessamine trees. The owners have taken a hands-off approach to the place, keeping everything much the same as it’s been for four generations. That means walls lined with old-style floral carved outlets, no air-con and whispers of a few uninvited guests lurking on-premises. The living room has been taken over with 10 beer taps and a fridge full of bot-

tles and cans. You can prop up the bar or claim a cushion at one of the low tables. The drinks: The focus is very much on local beers, with the owners happy to wax lyrical about the likes of Taopiphop Ale Project’s Hurtster Siason (B180), Yodbeer’s Bearnana Wit (B180), Outlaw Brewing’s Outlaw Mosaic IPA (B180) and DX’s Genesis IPA (B180). Just don’t expect the same selection next time you stop by. Mainstays Bavaria pilsner (B100) and Weihenstephan Kristallweizenbock (B160) on tap are also joined by familiar names Mikkeller, Stone and Brewdog in the fridge. Newly legal beers from Pot’s Nectar Brewery are coming soon. The food: The team behind Uncle Sam’s Grill and Salad food truck control the kitchen and serve Thai drinking food that’s no afterthought. Among the highlights are leng (pork bone served with spicy soup, B130) and sai yaang (grilled pig’s intestines, B100) served

with a tamarind-heavy jaew sauce. Heat-seekers should try the rare dish of hom yee rha rod ron rang (spicy grilled pork topped with basil leaves, B100)—just be sure to order a side of khaw hai jiew hoy nang rom (omelet with oyster served with rice, B100) to take the edge off. The appetizer of takowasa (raw octopus with wasabi, B80) is another must-try. The crowd: It’s fast becoming a favorite haunt of local beer geeks, who come together to compare tasting notes. Why you should care: Ghost tales aside, this is the low-key house of beers that anyone would want in their hood. Not on-board the craft brewing bandwagon? The food is also totally worth a visit. The second-floor space is open for artists to throw exhibitions, too.

KU BAR Hidden far from sight in the Old Town, Ku Bar carries an alluring air of mystery. A dusty concrete staircase leads the way to a marble counter amid a decrepit room where Anupas “Kong” Premanuwat (who worked as a mixologist at New York’s acclaimed Angel’s Share), pours a monthly rotating cocktail menu that spotlights local ingredients plucked from the fresh market. Kong shows off fastidious attention to detail in the “10 Herb” (B360), which mixes jub liang herbal Thai tea with gin, honey, egg white, lime and burnt sugar. 3/F, 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-067-6731. Open Thu-Sun 7pm-12am

71 Rama 6 Soi 28, 096-886-4104. Open daily 5pm-midnight.

NEWS Sathorn’s Swanky Rooftop Bar has a New Bartender Italian barman Francesco Moretti’s days are over at the rooftop cocktail lounge with one of the best happy hours in town. Vogue Lounge has now welcomed another Italian head bartender, Fabio Brugnolaro, who came fifth at the Gin Mare Italy Cocktail Competition 2016 and third at Diplomatico Italy in 2017. His former bar, Pinch Spirits and Kitchen in Milan, where he was a bar manager, was known for its signature cocktails of many flavors created by three bartenders. Though his full new menu isn’t going to be ready till September, you can get a taste of what he’s about by asking for one of his “kitchen cocktails” at the bar, for which he takes simple ingredients found in most kitchens and mixes them with booze. Vogue Lounge’s regular menu, meanwhile continues to dish out its signature drinks (starting B340) 2-for-1 between 5-9pm every night of the week. Fabio Brugnolaro

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6/F, Mahanakorn Cube, Narathiwas Rd., 02-001-0697. Open daily 10am-12am

HAIR OF THE DOG A former tap master at Mikkeller Bangkok runs this tiny bare concrete room filled with surgical lighting bar and hospital beds doubling as tables. The 13 rotating beers on tap focus on rare, exciting beers from the likes of Amager and Omnipollo. Expect to find drops ranging from Stone Ruination IPA to Mikkeller George Imperial Stout and Ol Yule Maelk (an imperial milk stout barrel aged on cognac and sherry barrels). 2/F, Mahatun Plaza, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-650-7589. Open daily 5pm-12am

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bites

Est. 33

Game On Five alternative spots to catch all the Premier League action EST. 33 Not just a bar but a microbrewery, this chic-looking spot serves up some tasty food to go with the freshly-brewed beers. The place also doubles as a mini beer museum (with a resident brewmaster), aiming to impart the history of Est. 33, Singha beer’s premium sister product. Sit at the bar, hugging the glass tanks, and watch all the sport action while your beer brews right in front of you. Bldg. E, Crystal Design Center, 1420/1 Praditmanoontham Rd., 02-102-2096. Open daily 5pm-midnight

SAB BAR Located alongside Thonglor Soi 13’s many popular dining options (including the first branch of dessert empire After You), this Isaan-restaurant-meetssports-bar more than holds its own. Run by the management team behind Isaan chain San Saab, Sab Bar is an extension of the brand’s passion for spicy Northeastern food, repackaged with live soccer matches, sports paraphernalia and lots of draught beer (Singha, Est. 33 Copper).

bricks and street art) despite the unlikely location in Baan Silom, towards the Charoenkrung end of the road. Board games, pool tables, a table tennis table, an air hockey table and TVs to screen live football complete the picture.

Nineteens Up

Silom Soi 19, 096-649-6919. Open daily 11-1am

STAY EKAMAI From a rustic-cool, geometric glass cube on Ekkamai Road, chug on beer towers and munch on gab glaem as you watch the game. The easygoing, chill vibe spills outside, where rickety wooden stools and leather couches provide a friendly atmosphere just perfect for watching the live sport sessions that play on the screen, while chatting to random strangers. Ekkamai Soi 8, 089-227-4040. Open daily 6pm-1am

SIT & SIP

87/5-6 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-6141. Open daily 11ammidnight

Where better to watch live Premier League football in Bangkok than at an alfresco rooftop bar located above a football pitch? Sit & Sip sits atop a five-aside pitch with 360-degree views overlooking the action. The bar is decorated in a beer garden style with a big stage at the front.

NINETEENS UP

Flick Football, 737 Praditmanutham Rd., 081-3880909, 081-879-9906. Open daily 6pm-1am

Sab Bar

This bar is like a playground for adults, filled with games and activities meant to rekindle the spirit of uni drinking days. It all takes place in an atmosphere that’s very “startup rec room” (think whitewashed Sit & Sip

Brought to you by Singha

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BK Magazine Friday, August 18, 2017

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bites THAI

Northern Uproar

Eats Payao

With two new restaurant openings, there’s never been a better range of Northern Thai food on offer in Bangkok. By Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon

Han Jao Nua

Kruajiangmai

Dara Dalay

Hom Duan

Best for: Organic, healthy, nam ngiaw Run by the same people behind Chiang Mai organic farm and homestay Dara Dalay, this restaurant is, for many, home to Bangkok’s best khao soi (noodles in Northern-style curry). From a tree-enshrined shack in Dusit, they do a brief list of Northern dishes like kanom jeen nam ngiaw (rice vermicelli with spicy pork and tomato soup, B40) and, of course, an addictive take on khao soi (B40) whose perfectly rich soup features a nice balance of flavors and tender chicken. Almost every dish here is made with organic vegetables grown on the farm either here or up North. Keep an eye on www.fb.com/daradalay for news of when they’ll be serving special dishes like hed nueng namprik kha (steamed mushrooms with galangal paste).

Best for: A convenient quick lunch Tucked in a modest shop-house just a hop from BTS Ekkamai, this restaurant packs out at lunchtime for its khao gaeng-style offerings (ever-changing curries over rice, from B50) and khao soi gai (B80). Even with the dirt-cheap prices they say everything is made in-house, from the nam prik noom (B80), to the tum kanoon (jackfruit mixed with spicy chili paste, B60), gaeng hang lay (B80) and sai oua (B60)

Pichai Market, Pichai Rd., 086-378-3837, 089-499-2878. Open MonSun 12-7pm

Eats Payao Best for: Home-style classics and affordable drink deals NEW! One of Sathorn’s best-kept secrets recently found a proper home by giving a Nanglinchee shophouse a vibrant pink makeover. Here, they serve up traditional recipes from Phayao province with the occasional premium ingredient or fusion flourish. Signage boldly proclaims this to be the home of “the best khao soi in town” and the headliner of rich and flavorful Northern-style curry noodles (available with chicken, beef, crabmeat, B80/120/280) isn’t far off. Other mainstays include nam prik noom (green young chili dip, B100), kanom jeen ngam ngiaw (a smoky, pungent noodle dish of Shan orgin, starting from B80) and the delicious gaeng hang lay (spicy pork belly curry, B120) to wash down with a bottle of Mahanakorn beer or Asahi draft. They currently offer buy-one-get-one on drinks daily from 5-9pm. 95/3 Nang Linchi Rd., 094-303-5833. Open daily 11:30am-11pm

Han Jao Nua Best for: Northern food in a mall When we head back to the old-school Union Mall, it’s not for the cheap clothes, but for this little place tucked away in the underground level. Han Jao Nua is run by a Northerner who claims to always be on-site to guarantee the quality of her food. Her khao soi gai (B65) has a nicely balanced flavor, augmented by some very tender chicken. Other recommendations include the variety of curries in clay pots lining the counter. Try the gaeng hang lay (B120) or gaeng pakkard jor (spicy Lanna-style Chinese cabbage soup with kapi, B90)— you’ll lick your bowl clean. B/F, Union Mall, Ladprao Rd., 081-712-6091. Open daily 10am-8:30pm. MRT Phahon Yothin

Ekkamai Soi 2, 085 037 8916. Open Mon-Sat 9am-10pm. BTS Ekkamai

Gedhawa Best for: Chill garden vibes Located in the very heart of Bangkok, Gedhawa has a lovely atmosphere—a garden, lots of tung (Northern flags) and the owner’s Lanna-evoking knick-knacks. They do many Northern-style dishes, including a pleasantly light version of khao soi. Add some of their fresh condiments for a more flavorful bowl (B85). Another musttry is the kua kae (stir-fried vegetables with chicken, B120), which tastes properly homemade.

Dara Dalay

25 Sukhumvit Soi 35, 02-662-0501. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; 5-10pm

Khao Soi Lamduan Fah Ham Best for: Khao soi worth traveling for The legendary, 70-year-old khao soi joint in Chiang Mai also has a branch in Bangkok, albeit one far-removed from the BTS line. This spot is run by the daughter of founder Auntie Lumduan and we can assure you that; like mother, like daughter. It’s all about the khao soi here, and if you’re the type of person who likes yours dense, spicy and salty then this is the place. We like the deep-fried noodles, which are crunchy yet fresh, and we always get a bowl of slow-cooked baby back ribs (B50) to go with. 16/54 Vipawadee-Rangsit Soi 58, 085-916-9905, 02-579-6403, 081919-0951. Open daily 8:30am-3pm (closed last Sun of the month)

Kruajiangmai Best for: Authentic flavors without leaving Thonglor Originally a delivery service, Kruajiangmai NEW! serves Northern Thai food made using ingredients the Chiang Mai-native owner sources directly from the North. These she turns into delicious staples like the intense khao soi gai (B95), nam prik noom (green chili relish, B120) and gaeng hang lay with pork knuckle (B150). You’ll also find some rarer dishes like khao ngiao (steamed rice with pork blood and herbs in banana leaf, B55) and stir-fried pak chiangda (a Northern local vegetable) with egg (B120). They even store sai oua (Northern curry sausage, B170) made by the owner’s family in Chiang Mai. Delivery throughout Bangkok starts from B60. Two hours advanced ordering necessary.

Hom Duan

Marn Mueng Best for: Variety From a down-to-earth, country-style wooden house, Lumphon-raised owner Anchalee Prommart dishes out flavor-packed home recipes. On any given day there are 30-40 different curries and a self-service fresh vegetables station (starting at B50). Start your meal with the kong kao wai (B160), a platter of Northern-style hors d’oeuvres covering sausage, crispy pork belly and (minced pork stuffed in fried Northern green chilli). Also worth your while are staples like nam prik nam pu (grilled chili paste mixed with shrimp paste, B40), laab khua (spicy salad with pork and herbs, B70) and gaeng kanoon kradook moo on (curry with jackfruit, B80). Sammakorn Village, Ramkhamhaeng Rd., 02-729-6275. Open Wed-Mon 10am-9pm

Thonglor Soi 7-9. 099-196-2464. Open Tue-Sun 11am-11pm. BTS Thong Lo

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bites FOOD REVIEWS

Akart Bistro HHHH Thai/Western. Yarden, 30 Yen Akat Rd., 02-249-0182. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm BB-BBB FH

Akart Bistro is a breed of restaurant that’s bound to have foodies turning up their noses. Like neighbors Bitterman and Jann Bistro in Sathorn, this restaurant’s bipolar Thai-Western menu insists on shoehorning gooey cheese, foie gras and lobster into many of its dishes, with frequently disastrous results. That’s a genuine shame, because this is the kind of chill-chill, spend-the-afternoon place Yenakart has being crying out for. The glasshouse-like extension to a recently reinvigorated 70-year-old villa (also home to Coffee Craftsman cafe) oozes rustic, old-world charm. The food is not so agreeable. Laced with “signature dishes, “chef’s recommendations” and other sales spiels, the menu covers something for everyone—and no one— from Thai rice dishes way up to lobster-topped arrabiata pasta (B1,790) and a massive Australian black Angus tomahawk (from B3,000/1.2kg). First, the not-so-bad: a seafood yum tua poo (wing bean salad, B220) comes with nice, sharp flavoring, crisp shallots, and a generous shrimp-to-wing bean ratio

Real Ichi HHHH Japanese. 1669/9 New Petchburi Rd., 02-6529898. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5-10:30pm. MRT Phetchaburi F

Real Ichi’s reputation is built largely on its budget sushi and yakiniku buffets (B699/899), but the restaurant’s a la carte service is also decent, especially for its location out on New Petchburi Road. Floor-to-ceiling glass separates the dining space from another moo kata (grilled pork) buffet restaurant. Inside is full of the usual Japanese references, from the traditional light wooden chairs and tables, and ancient paintings, to more modern touches like hanging lamps and booths with super-tall backrests. The picture menu suggests that most dishes are perennially at 40-percent discount, which does mess with your mental arithmetic a bit. Portions are not big, but decent for the price. With the otoro sushi (B385), for instance, the fatty tuna wraps nicely around the thumb-

that makes up for the fridge-temperature poached egg on top. The further from Thai staple territory you delve, though, the more things fall apart—literally, in the case of the personal-sized pizza (no 12-inch pies here) on our last visit. The seemingly yeast-free, soggy, cracker-like base never stood a chance against the recommended topping of spinach, molten cheese and runny poached egg (B350) whose overriding flavor seemed to be supermarket “Italian Seasoning.” Moving from “Italian” to “German,” the deep-fried pork hock (with sauerkraut and purple sweet potato mash, B550) at least puts quantity first, but tastes underseasoned and dry, not aided by a powdery gravy. It’s perhaps testament to the restaurant’s popularity that at least three dishes we tried to order were sold out on our last visit, including the mussels steamed with white wine (B345), but we find little to recommend about the baked “volcano” mussels (B390) suggested in its place, which again comes with that tasteless molten cheese that’s overpowered by sickly sweet Thousand Island and tobiko roe dressing. While we grumble, Akart Bistro is packed to the gills even on weeknights (all those BMWs out front don’t park themselves) so is clearly doing something very right. Despite a puny wine list (only three reds by the glass, from B290), there are worse places to physically spend an afternoon. If you must eat, stick to the Thai side of things (the pad Thai fused with crispy oyster omelet [B280] works surprisingly well) or dessert. Better yet, hit up nextdoor’s Coffee Craftsman, which nails the comfort food thing far better.

size piece of rice. The fish is tasty and fresh, only the rice is perhaps a bit mushy—a sign that things are not particularly refined here. It becomes more of a problem with a dish like the unagi mango don (grilled eel with mango over rice, B420) whose sour and sweet sauce is surprisingly complex but makes for a sticky bowl of rice to finish. A far bigger fail is the salmon crunchy roll (B330), whose spicy sauce is balanced by salty fish roe only to be ruined by sad, cold and sticky tempura flakes. For fish, your safest bet is probably to stick with the mixed sashimi (B480), which delivers juicy slithers of fish just as you’d hope. The yakiniku is similarly inconsistent. They serve A5-wagyu from Kagoshima, which you can have as sirloin at B1,500—bursting with flavor. (We do recommend grilling it yourself because the A5 torched sushi [B270] on our last visit was served dry and cold.) Cheaper, but still decent, is the sirloin wagyu steak (B948) of no defined origin, though we’re guessing Thai. With its erratic kitchen but solid produce, Real Ichi might not be your first choice to fill that Japanese craving (Shinsen Fish Market or Taka Town are more premium options in the area), but come the end of the month when funds are low it’ll certainly do a job.

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Price guide

PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

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H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music

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bites

OPEN DOOR

El Tapeo

This Thonglor tapas house comes with real street cred from Madrid.

The buzz: The latest tapas contender in town is the sister restaurant of a 12-year-old place in Madrid called El Rinconcito de Juan. That restaurant’s chef, Ruben Gonzalez, teams up with husband-wife duo Manatsanan Charoensuk and Jorge Arnanz to give a three-story space on Soi Thonglor a vibrant makeover and serve authentic flavors. The decor: What was previously the dark and macho threestory setting of Hunt’s restaurant and bar now boasts decidedly Spanish flourishes in the form of beautiful patterned tiles, yellow accents and the odd hanging photograph. A wooden bar seats four at the entrance, while the third floor’s full-height windows offer views over the bustling street and the under-construction Eight Thonglor mall.

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The food: Chef Ruben works with imported cheese, cured meats and black squid ink from Spain and local seafood and vegetables to whip up down-to-earth but delicious small plates. Prices are cheap for this part of town, too, starting at B130 for the gazpacho. Expect all the classics like gambas al ajillo (B150), which sees perfectly fried prawns come with little crisp shards of garlic, and albondigas de cerdo caseras (B150), minced pork meatballs in an unctuous tomato sauce. More substantial is the arroz negro (squid ink paella with seafood, B850), which serves 2-3 people and comes with a flavorful garlic aioli. For drinking snacks, ask for their pintxos of the day or try out the pimientos de padron (Galician roasted peppers, B150) and the baked potato skins with sour cream (B150). There are also tostas (open sandwiches) in combos like jamon Iberico with tomato (B250) and salmon with brie (B195).

The drinks: Owner Jorge Arnanz sources most bottles from Spain (from B690 for the house cabernet sauvignon). There are a handful of options available by the glass, with the house white and red wines starting at B150. It wouldn’t be a Spanish restaurant without sangria, here made with cava at B220/ glass; or B850/jug; teetotalers can get the virgin option at B135/glass. Beers include draught Estrella Galicia at B70. Why we’d come back: Tapas in Bangkok doesn’t come much better than this. Throw in affordable prices and there are really no excuses. Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon 159/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 7-9), 02-052-0656. Open Thu-Sun 11:20am-11pm; Fri-Sat 11:30am-1am

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Good Eats

Sugi Bee Garden Cafe

Coffeelismstand

NEW AND NOTED

Small but Strong Sathorn's office workers have a tiny and hip new coffee stand. The people behind the two-year-old Coffeelism Cafe in the farflung Lad Plakhao area have branched into the Chong Nonsi business district with Coffeelismstand (Sathorn Soi 8, 081-5995961). Unlike the multitude of little coffee pop-ups in the neighborhood, this one boasts of only using specialty coffee blends given the tick of approval by Intercof experts, starting from the low price of B40 for an espresso, B45 for a double-shot cappuccino and B50 for a Thai-style iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk. Slow-bar drip coffee is on the way, too. Non-coffee drinkers can enjoy the iced black cocoa (B65), which makes use of defatted cocoa powder for a creamy taste.

Sandwich Time From a gray-colored stand surrounded by patio chairs and umbrellas, Good Eats (Ari Soi 1, 097-250-6683) offers Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches at wallet-friendly prices just a few steps from BTS Ari. Each French baguette comes stuffed with mouthwatering proteins and pickled goodies, whether it’s grilled

lemongrass chicken, honey roasted pork (both B79), crispy pork, Vietnamese sausage, tofu or tuna salad (all B89). It's B129 for a set comprising banh mi, herb juice and a four-inch-long spring roll with sweet dipping sauce.

Make a Bee Line Silom’s latest cafe comes from Japan’s Sugi Bee Garden honey brand. Sugi Bee Garden Cafe (224 Silom Rd., 084-603-6030) presents tasty sweets and light drinks featuring honey products from Kumamoto Prefecture. Drinks like the soft jelly honey (yuzu, blueberry, lemon and kyoho grape, B140) are said to be rich in vitamins and good for the skin, or buy a 500ml bottle of concentrated "fruit juice" honey to take back home at B900. Food-wise, try the Sugi Bee salad (mixed greens and fruits with honey dressing, B210) or instantly cool down with unlimited honey-flavored soft serve (B90) in a waffle cone. The long list of desserts also includes panna cotta (B190) and creme brulee (B190), waffles with mixed fruits (B195) and pancake with bacon (B190), all served with a pure honey syrup. Wan-

TABLE TALK

Firehouse 33/26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3643. BTS Nana. Open daily 11:30am-midnight Years after introducing the gourmet burger to Sukhumvit Soi 11, Firehouse still dishes out an impressive package. The Thai French beef from Pon Yang Kham Cooperative farms are always juicy and cooked perfectly to order, while the buns are soft, fresh and non-yielding. The rest of the menu charts American and Tex-Mex comfort classics from fried pickles to tacos, all served up in a dining room brimming with fire-fighting paraphernalia. Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only (cannot be combined with other offers) Today - 31 Jan 18

vida Jiralertpaiboon

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now THU Learn to Fly The last time the Foo Fighters played in Bangkok was in 1996 alongside the Beastie Boys and Sonic Youth. Tickets were sub-B1,000. Feel old now? Relive the good days when Dave “Nicest Man in Rock” Grohl and co. return this Aug 24 to treat Impact Challenger Hall to all-time hits like “Everlong” and “This is a Call.” Get your tix at Thaiticketmajor.

SAT Hop to It “Creative District,” the area formerly known as Charoenkrung Road, is home to some of the city’s most boundary-pushing art spaces: Bridge, Most, Atta, Serindia, the list goes on. This Aug 19 a bunch of them stay open late as part of the Creative District Gallery Hopping Night, which promises exclusive exhibitions, artist talks and, if you’re lucky, some free plonk. See the full lineup at www.fb.com/galleryhoppingbkk.

THU Khlong Dreaming It seems an age since Bangkok got an art space-studio-cafe to get worked up about. Yelo House could be just that. The abandoned warehouse-turned-art hub sits right beside Sansab Canal and not far at all from BACC. It’ll throw open its doors on Aug 24 for an exhibition from musician-turned-artist Pod Moderndog. See page 22.

SUN No Shame Back in 1994, All-4-One was one of the world’s best selling pop acts, soundtracking many a school prom with heartfelt hits like “I Swear.” Fast-forward to 2017 and things aren’t going too badly—they’re playing Bangkok Thunder Dome on Aug 19, after all. Book your slow dance now at Thaiticketmajor.

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now NIGHTLIFE

MUSIC

Tuxedo

Taopiphop Bar Project

Yena

Steezie Wonder

DJ Epoch

classical PYO 4TH CONCERT SEASON FINALE

EPOCH AT SAFE ROOM

DJs Neil Thorpe, Hasan Khan and Jules Blons spin house and techno music till late. Aug 18, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. Free. THE FLYING GROOVE

DJs Ska, RabbitDisco, Tatexpression, Deejai, Parkin and Wutti spin a mash of funk, disco and boogie tunes. Aug 18, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Free. BTS Thong Lo. CHILLING KILLING 2

Junesis x Mr.P spin house music to kee you awake till late. Price TBA. Aug 19, 9pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. BTS Chong Nonsi. DRIVE BY DISCO

A night full of trippy disco and vaporwave with Stargazer and Gramaphone Children. Aug 19, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02261-6661. Free. BTS Thong Lo. LIVE GOOD!

A session of acoustic reggae featuring bands and DJs Alice & Osamu, U-KEY and K9 Aug 19, 9pm. 12 x 12, 810/22 Thonglor Soi Thararom 2, 094-260-4713. B150. WILLY WONKA'S WACKED UP CHOCOLATE PARTY

The Oompa Loompas have been hard at work transforming the Chinese-themed bar into Willy Wonk's infamous Chocolate Factory. Partiers

have a chance to win one of five golden tickets on the night. Aug 19, 9pm. Sing Sing Theater, Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 063-2251331. Free. BTS Phrom Phong.

iphop "Tao" Limjittrakorn. Aug 24, 8:30pm. Taopiphop Bar Project, 190 Rattana Thibet Rd., 081-4276062. Free.

NATURALISTA X EAT ME

A night of basement vibes and raw dancehall beats by Strictly Blazin and Steezie Wonder. Aug 25, 8pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 0835451-833. Free. BTS Surasak.

Silom's fine-dining institution Eat Me showcases biodynamic sustainable organic wines from around the world alongside live music. Ticket gets you 15 tasting pours, available at Ticketmelon.com. Aug 20, 5pm. Eat Me, 1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. B1,500. BTS Sala Daeng. GLOW W/ ANDREA SETTESOLDI

The Italian DJ spins a blend of minimal techno and raw deep house, supported by Wintix. Free entry before midnight. Aug 23, 9:30pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B250 includes 1 drink - after midnight. MRT Sukhumvit. FUTURISTIC POLAR BEARS

The British DJ and producer trio spin their high-tempo brand of EDM. Aug 24, 9pm. Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-3083246, 095-248-3897. B350 includes 1 drink. BTS Nana. MY BEER TRAVEL STORY

An informal talk covering the experiences of micro-beer brewers in Thailand led by the law grad who got arrested earlier this year, Taop-

BRUK OUT

MAKOTO AT GLOW

The Japanese DJ brings his drum and bass sound to the dancefloor till dawn. Entrance price TBA. Aug 25, 10pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. MRT Sukhumvit. THE GATHERING 1.5 BANGKOK EDITION

This house party under an "urban street" theme gathers food and drinks, art by Harisadhi Leelayuwapan and Taitai Inthuon, and live music by Maurizio Ghisleni featuring Wan Mattinimare, Lord Liar Boots and S.O.L.E., and DJs Mighty NP and Gramaphone Children. Aug 26, 4:30pm. Nineteens Up, Silom Soi 19, 096-649-6919. B350-450. BTS Surasak. PROPA VIBE$ REUNION

The crew's co-founders, Steezie Wonder and Strictly Blazin, spin dancehall, afrobeat and tropical bass in the Safe Room. Aug 26, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-0611117. B150. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Rising conductor Sittichai Pengcharoen closes this season by leading a program of compositions by Debussy, Toru Takemitsu and Berceuse. Aug 27, 4pm. Princess Galyani Vadhana Institute of Music, 2010 Arun Amarin Soi 36, 02-447-8597. Free.

concerts 90S ALTERNATIVE CONCERT

Travel back in time to the cassette tape era with bands like Paradox, Smile Buffalo and Yokee Playboy. Tickets are available from 7-Eleven and AllticketThailand.com. Aug 19, 3pm. JJ Mall, Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd. B1,200. www.allticketthailand.com/ findex.html?d=1501584615696. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. TUXEDO LIVE IN BANGKOK

The American funk and soul duo of Mayer Hawthorne and Jake One debuts in Bangkok to perform '80s-inspired hits like "Do it" and "Number One." Tickets at bit.ly/2wGiCK1. Aug 23, 5pm. SRP5 Studio, 5 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 32. B2,200-2,800. ALL-4-ONE LIVE IN BANGKOK 2017

American R&B group All-4-One perform '90s hits like "I Swear," with support from Pek Palitchoke, K-Group and Jamdee. Aug 19, 6pm. Thunder Dome, 99 Popular Rd., 02-504-5050. B1,500-4,000 from Thaiticketmajor. FOO FIGHTERS

The American alternative rock band best known for hits like ""Everlong," "Best of You" and "The Pretender" make their first appearance in

Bangkok since 1996. Aug 24, 6pm. Impact Challenger Hall, Impact Challenger Building, 1 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455. B2,500-6,000.

gigs YENA

The indie-pop band launch their self-titled debut album. Tickets are sold out. Aug 19, 5pm. Brownstone Studio, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 087703-0448. B199. WED LIVE MOLAM

The Toomturn Molam Group perform their '60s-inspired country sound. Aug 23, 10pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200. BTS Thong Lo. KHAYEE LIVE SHOW

This grindcore and noise concert features international bands like Pig Company (Indonesia) and Spaghetti Blacc (USA), alongside local names such as Cystgurgle and Smallpox Aroma. Aug 27, 5:30pm. Brownstone Studio, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 087703-0448. Free. SHOWCASE: FRESHLY SQUEEZED SOUNDS

Rising artists Alyn, Buhonero Clandestino and the Fluer Wiber Band perform live. Aug 18, 7:30pm. Live Lounge, Room 10/47, Trendy Building, Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-168-7335. Free. FUCK WAR, LET'S PARTY!

A live show from punk and hardcore bands the Story of the Stoners, The Greed, Jimmy Revolt, Hatemonday and Monument the X. Aug 18, 7pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-5451833. B200. BTS Surasak.

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now ART

STUFF

The Last Deer

A TALEBEARER'S TALE: THE LAST DEER

Sakarin Krue-One's paintings and prints blend traditional Thai imagery and references to social history with modern techniques. Through Aug 23, 6pm. Tang Contemporary Art, Room B-28, Basement/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-630-1114. ASSIMILATE

Emerging Chiang Mai artist Patipat Chaiwitesh showcases his final project created during his time at Ecole Superieure des Beaux-Arts TALM in France, which combines French tapestry and Thai basketry techniques. Aug 18, 6:30pm. Silpakorn University, Na Phra Lan Rd. THE CREATIVE DISTRICT GALLERY HOPPING NIGHT

The night when some of the coolest galleries in town stay open late returns, featuring some 11 art spaces around Silom and Charoenkrung. Aug 19, 6pm. LIFELINES

Jiratchaya Pripwai explores the line between action, consciousness and subconsciousness through the use

NEW OPENING

of automatic line drawing. Aug 19, 6:30pm. P.Tendercool, 48-58 Charoen Krung Soi 30, 02-266-4344. MANGA HOKUSAI MANGA

The Japan Foundation presents an exhibition exploring the origin of Japanese manga curated by Ito Yu and Takahashi Mizuki. Featuring works by artists such as Shiriagari Kotobuk, Yokoyama Yuichi, Igarashi Daisuke, Okadaya Tetuzoh, Nishijima Daisuke, Ichikawa Haruko and Kyo Machiko. After Bangkok, the event moves onto Chiang Mai (Oct) and Hatyai (Nov). Through Sep 22, 5:30pm. g23, 2-3/F, Srinakharinwirot University, 114 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-649-5000. SILHOUETTE OF DESIRE

Uthis Heamamool presents his new series of figurative paintings, with an artist talk on opening night for those who want to learn more about the creative process and concepts behind the work. Aug 19-Sep 30, 6pm. Gallery Ver, Narathiwas Soi 22, 089-988-5890.

Silhouette of Desire

RENCE SOLO SHOW

The American artist, who recently recently finished a year as visiting artist in the Multidisciplinary Department of Art at Chiang Mai University, presents artworks that explore the fragmentation of the digital world and its impact on physical reality. Aug 19-Sep 2, 6pm. Bridge, Charoen Krung Soi 51, 086-9869421. YIG-TSAL: CALLIGRAPHY ART OF TIBET

Master calligrapher Jamyang Dorjee Chakrishar, the world recorder holder for the longest calligraphy scroll, presents the depth, flexiblity and artistic flare of Tibetian calligraphy through expressive free-flowing brushstrokes. Aug 25-Sep 30, 6pm. Serindia Gallery, Room 3101, 3201, OP Garden, 4-6 Charoen Krung Soi 36, 02-238-6410.

Siam's newest attraction is not inside the malls, but between them. After a long two years and B300 million of renovations, the skywalk above the busy Pathumwan intersection reopened last week and doubles as Bangkok's latest art installation. The raised platform links many of Siam's top destinations, namely BACC, Siam Discovery, MBK and BTS National Stadium, with a design that references water lilies (Pathumwan means "lotus" in Thai). What's more, the lily pad-like structures which provide shade for passers-by have been covered in art by 13 renowned street artists: Yuree Kensaku, P7 (Peerapong Limthamrong), Jackkrit Anantakul, Rukkit Kuanhawate, Maythee Noijinda, TRK, Pruch Sintunava, Peap Tarr & Lisa Mam, Mauy, JECK BKK, Floyd and Channarong Klugiad. The local businesses behind the project, led by Siam Synergy, hope the skywalk will become a destination in its own right, with the BACC in particular planning more art exhibitions for the outdoor space. They're also giving the public the chance to name the new skywalk, with the winner claiming B100,000. See www.siamsynergy.com for details. The deadline is Sep 4.

WHEN WATCHED: GRACELEE LAW-

FILM NEWS The Promise

A New Creative Hub by the Khlong

Nestled down an alley near BACC, right beside Sansab Canal, Yelo House is a new art space, co-working hub, studio and cafe rolled in one. Set to open on Aug 19, the venue is the brainchild of Hans Werner Muller, the creative director of HWM consultancy firm, and Sallayawate Prasertwittayakarn, co-founder of Atelier Of Architects, who’ve renovated an abandoned warehouse by the khlong into a two-story hub of art and creativity. First up for events, they’ll welcome Thai singer/songwriter Thanachai Uchin, aka Pod Moderndog, to host his art exhibition “Pod Art” this Aug 24. 20/2 Soi Kasemsan 1, Rama 1 Rd., 089-777-2322. BTS National Stadium

22

Siam’s New Arty Walk

Sathorn Unique Tower, better known as Charoenkrung Road’s abandoned “Ghost Tower,” is set to play a leading role in GDH’s forthcoming horror film directed by Sophon Sakdaphisit (Ladda Land and The Swimmers). In cinemas Sep 7, The Promise looks back at 20 years since the 1997 Tom Yum Kung financial crisis through the life of a businesswoman. At the time of the crisis, she made a promise to her best friend that they would end their lives together at Sathorn Unique. But while she somehow survived and went on to forge a successful career, her friend was not so lucky. Now that friend is back to see that the promise is fulfilled. We’re especially intrigued given that the building’s owner, Pansit Torsuwan, has previously spoken out against the prospect of films shot on his property. "Lots of people have wanted to use the tower as a movie location but I have refused them all. I even turned down a Hollywood movie—Superman, I think—because if people recognized it, the tower would become an even bigger attraction. If someone proposed a documentary that I thought would benefit others, then I might say yes," he told us earlier this year.

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now

GUIDES

FILM

Opening June

Cafe Society 2017 Bangkok’s coolest hangout spots for brunch, coffee, sweets and all-day bites.

August PHANTOM OF ILLUMINATION (THAILAND)

GHOST HOUSE (USA)

Documentary. A story following the life of a middle-aged movie projectionist after the shutdown of Thonburi Rama cinema.

Horror. During a vacation to Thailand, a young American couple accidentally disrespect a spirit with horrifying consequences.

SILENCE

OVERDRIVE (USA)

Drama/History. Martin Scorsese adapts Shusaku Endo’s 1966 novel for the big screen, telling the story of two Jesuit priests from Portugal who embark on a mission to Japan to track down their mentor, who rumor has it has turned his back on the Catholicism.

Action. Two car thief half-brothers travel to the south of France to seek new opportunities, but ends up messing with the wrong guy putting their girlfriends’ lives in jeopardy.

September

November

NET I DIE (THAILAND)

GINTAMA (JAPAN)

Horror. Footage of a net idol’s death is posted online with the names of five others, sparking a spate of murders.

Action. This live-action take on the popular manga sees a young samurai try to survive as best he can after aliens invade feudal Japan.

ON THE COVER

Phi Phi island

PEACH GIRL (JAPAN)

Romance/Comedy . Based on the comic book of the same name, this story follows a high school girl who tries every way possible to win the heart of her crush.

1 COVER_New 1.indd 1

November 12/8/16 5:47 PM

Upcoming (Aug 24) March’18

THE BEGUILED (USA)

Drama. Sofia Coppola’s remake of the ‘70s classic takes place during the American Civil War and follows the jealousies, sexual tensions and moral dilemmas that follow when an all-girls shelter in Virginia takes in a wounded Union soldier.

AN INCONVENIENT SEQUEL: TRUTH TO POWER (USA)

Documentary. This follow-up documentary to An Inconvenient Truth follows former US Vice President Al Gore as he continues his mission to raise awareness of climate change and influence international policy.

December

KOOK JEYEOUNG (THAILAND)

Comedy. A K-pop superstar forms an unlikely friendship with an ordinary high school boy in Northeastern Thailand and they help one another out with their lovesick problems. THE HITMAN’S BODYGUARD (USA)

LORD OF SHANGHAI (CHIANA)

Action/Comedy. The world’s leading bodyguard has a mission to escort a hitman to the Court of Justice. Stars Ryan Reynolds and Samuel Jackson.

Drama. A woman seeks revenge for the assassination of her husband, a former Shanghai mafia mobster.

Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life. To be featured in our upcoming 2017-2018 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9654 1/2V_VHP 2.indd 1

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now

SAT Hop to It “Creative District,” the area formerly known as Charoenkrung Road, is home to some of the city’s most boundary-pushing art spaces: Bridge, Most, Atta, Serindia, the list goes on. This Aug 19 a bunch of them stay open late as part of the Creative District Gallery Hopping Night, which promises exclusive exhibitions, artist talks and, if you’re lucky, some free plonk. See the full lineup at www.fb.com/galleryhoppingbkk.

THU Khlong Dreaming It seems an age since Bangkok got an art space-studio-cafe to get worked up about. Yelo House could be just that. The abandoned warehouse-turned-art hub sits right beside Sansab Canal and not far at all from BACC. It’ll throw open its doors on Aug 24 for an exhibition from musician-turned-artist Pod Moderndog. See page 22.

THU Learn to Fly The last time the Foo Fighters played in Bangkok was in 1996 alongside the Beastie Boys and Sonic Youth. Tickets were sub-B1,000. Feel old now? Relive the good days when Dave “Nicest Man in Rock” Grohl and co. return this Aug 24 to treat Impact Challenger Hall to all-time hits like “Everlong” and “This is a Call.” Get your tix at Thaiticketmajor.

SUN No Shame Back in 1994, All-4-One was one of the world’s best selling pop acts, soundtracking many a school prom with heartfelt hits like “I Swear.” Fast-forward to 2017 and things aren’t going too badly—they’re playing Bangkok Thunder Dome on Aug 19, after all. Book your slow dance now at Thaiticketmajor.

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now NIGHTLIFE

MUSIC

Tuxedo

Taopiphop Bar Project

Yena

Steezie Wonder

DJ Neil Thorpe

classical PYO 4TH CONCERT SEASON FINALE

EPOCH AT SAFE ROOM

DJs Neil Thorpe, Hasan Khan and Jules Blons spin house and techno music till late. Aug 18, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. Free. THE FLYING GROOVE

DJs Ska, RabbitDisco, Tatexpression, Deejai, Parkin and Wutti spin a mash of funk, disco and boogie tunes. Aug 18, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Free. BTS Thong Lo. CHILLING KILLING 2

Junesis x Mr.P spin house music to kee you awake till late. Price TBA. Aug 19, 9pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. BTS Chong Nonsi. DRIVE BY DISCO

A night full of trippy disco and vaporwave with Stargazer and Gramaphone Children. Aug 19, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02261-6661. Free. BTS Thong Lo. LIVE GOOD!

A session of acoustic reggae featuring bands and DJs Alice & Osamu, U-KEY and K9 Aug 19, 9pm. 12 x 12, 810/22 Thonglor Soi Thararom 2, 094-260-4713. B150. WILLY WONKA'S WACKED UP CHOCOLATE PARTY

The Oompa Loompas have been hard at work transforming the Chinese-themed bar into Willy Wonk's infamous Chocolate Factory. Partiers

have a chance to win one of five golden tickets on the night. Aug 19, 9pm. Sing Sing Theater, Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 063-2251331. Free. BTS Phrom Phong.

iphop "Tao" Limjittrakorn. Aug 24, 8:30pm. Taopiphop Bar Project, 190 Rattana Thibet Rd., 081-4276062. Free.

NATURALISTA X EAT ME

A night of basement vibes and raw dancehall beats by Strictly Blazin and Steezie Wonder. Aug 25, 8pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 0835451-833. Free. BTS Surasak.

Silom's fine-dining institution Eat Me showcases biodynamic sustainable organic wines from around the world alongside live music. Ticket gets you 15 tasting pours, available at Ticketmelon.com. Aug 20, 5pm. Eat Me, 1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. B1,500. BTS Sala Daeng. GLOW W/ ANDREA SETTESOLDI

The Italian DJ spins a blend of minimal techno and raw deep house, supported by Wintix. Free entry before midnight. Aug 23, 9:30pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B250 includes 1 drink - after midnight. MRT Sukhumvit. FUTURISTIC POLAR BEARS

The British DJ and producer trio spin their high-tempo brand of EDM. Aug 24, 9pm. Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-3083246, 095-248-3897. B350 includes 1 drink. BTS Nana. MY BEER TRAVEL STORY

An informal talk covering the experiences of micro-beer brewers in Thailand led by the law grad who got arrested earlier this year, Taop-

BRUK OUT

MAKOTO AT GLOW

The Japanese DJ brings his drum and bass sound to the dancefloor till dawn. Entrance price TBA. Aug 25, 10pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. MRT Sukhumvit. THE GATHERING 1.5 BANGKOK EDITION

This house party under an "urban street" theme gathers food and drinks, art by Harisadhi Leelayuwapan and Taitai Inthuon, and live music by Maurizio Ghisleni featuring Wan Mattinimare, Lord Liar Boots and S.O.L.E., and DJs Mighty NP and Gramaphone Children. Aug 26, 4:30pm. Nineteens Up, Silom Soi 19, 096-649-6919. B350-450. BTS Surasak. PROPA VIBE$ REUNION

The crew's co-founders, Steezie Wonder and Strictly Blazin, spin dancehall, afrobeat and tropical bass in the Safe Room. Aug 26, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-0611117. B150. BTS Chong Nonsi.

Rising conductor Sittichai Pengcharoen closes this season by leading a program of compositions by Debussy, Toru Takemitsu and Berceuse. Aug 27, 4pm. Princess Galyani Vadhana Institute of Music, 2010 Arun Amarin Soi 36, 02-447-8597. Free.

concerts 90S ALTERNATIVE CONCERT

Travel back in time to the cassette tape era with bands like Paradox, Smile Buffalo and Yokee Playboy. Tickets are available from 7-Eleven and AllticketThailand.com. Aug 19, 3pm. JJ Mall, Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd. B1,200. www.allticketthailand.com/ findex.html?d=1501584615696. MRT Kamphaeng Phet. TUXEDO LIVE IN BANGKOK

The American funk and soul duo of Mayer Hawthorne and Jake One debuts in Bangkok to perform '80s-inspired hits like "Do it" and "Number One." Tickets at bit.ly/2wGiCK1. Aug 23, 5pm. SRP5 Studio, 5 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 32. B2,200-2,800. ALL-4-ONE LIVE IN BANGKOK 2017

American R&B group All-4-One perform '90s hits like "I Swear," with support from Pek Palitchoke, K-Group and Jamdee. Aug 19, 6pm. Thunder Dome, 99 Popular Rd., 02-504-5050. B1,500-4,000 from Thaiticketmajor. FOO FIGHTERS

The American alternative rock band best known for hits like ""Everlong," "Best of You" and "The Pretender" make their first appearance in

Bangkok since 1996. Aug 24, 6pm. Impact Challenger Hall, Impact Challenger Building, 1 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455. B2,500-6,000.

gigs YENA

The indie-pop band launch their self-titled debut album. Tickets are sold out. Aug 19, 5pm. Brownstone Studio, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 087703-0448. B199. WED LIVE MOLAM

The Toomturn Molam Group perform their '60s-inspired country sound. Aug 23, 10pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200. BTS Thong Lo. KHAYEE LIVE SHOW

This grindcore and noise concert features international bands like Pig Company (Indonesia) and Spaghetti Blacc (USA), alongside local names such as Cystgurgle and Smallpox Aroma. Aug 27, 5:30pm. Brownstone Studio, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 087703-0448. Free. SHOWCASE: FRESHLY SQUEEZED SOUNDS

Rising artists Alyn, Buhonero Clandestino and the Fluer Wiber Band perform live. Aug 18, 7:30pm. Live Lounge, Room 10/47, Trendy Building, Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-168-7335. Free. FUCK WAR, LET'S PARTY!

A live show from punk and hardcore bands the Story of the Stoners, The Greed, Jimmy Revolt, Hatemonday and Monument the X. Aug 18, 7pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-5451833. B200. BTS Surasak.

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now STUFF Siam’s New Arty Walk

ART

The Last Deer

A TALEBEARER'S TALE: THE LAST DEER

Sakarin Krue-One's paintings and prints blend traditional Thai imagery and references to social history with modern techniques. Through Aug 23, 6pm. Tang Contemporary Art, Room B-28, Basement/F, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd., 02-630-1114. ASSIMILATE

Emerging Chiang Mai artist Patipat Chaiwitesh showcases his final project created during his time at Ecole Superieure des Beaux-Arts TALM in France, which combines French tapestry and Thai basketry techniques. Aug 18, 6:30pm. Silpakorn University, Na Phra Lan Rd. THE CREATIVE DISTRICT GALLERY HOPPING NIGHT

The night when some of the coolest galleries in town stay open late returns, featuring some 11 art spaces around Silom and Charoenkrung. Aug 19, 6pm. LIFELINES

Jiratchaya Pripwai explores the line between action, consciousness and subconsciousness through the use

of automatic line drawing. Aug 19, 6:30pm. P.Tendercool, 48-58 Charoen Krung Soi 30, 02-266-4344. MANGA HOKUSAI MANGA

The Japan Foundation presents an exhibition exploring the origin of Japanese manga curated by Ito Yu and Takahashi Mizuki. Featuring works by artists such as Shiriagari Kotobuk, Yokoyama Yuichi, Igarashi Daisuke, Okadaya Tetuzoh, Nishijima Daisuke, Ichikawa Haruko and Kyo Machiko. After Bangkok, the event moves onto Chiang Mai (Oct) and Hatyai (Nov). Through Sep 22, 5:30pm. g23, 2-3/F, Srinakharinwirot University, 114 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-649-5000. SILHOUETTE OF DESIRE

Uthis Heamamool presents his new series of figurative paintings, with an artist talk on opening night for those who want to learn more about the creative process and concepts behind the work. Aug 19-Sep 30, 6pm. Gallery Ver, Narathiwas Soi 22, 089-988-5890.

Silhouette of Desire

WHEN WATCHED: GRACELEE LAWRENCE SOLO SHOW

The American artist, who recently recently finished a year as visiting artist in the Multidisciplinary Department of Art at Chiang Mai University, presents artworks that explore the fragmentation of the digital world and its impact on physical reality. Aug 19-Sep 2, 6pm. Bridge, Charoen Krung Soi 51, 086-9869421. YIG-TSAL: CALLIGRAPHY ART OF TIBET

Master calligrapher Jamyang Dorjee Chakrishar, the world recorder holder for the longest calligraphy scroll, presents the depth, flexiblity and artistic flare of Tibetian calligraphy through expressive free-flowing brushstrokes. Aug 25-Sep 30, 6pm. Serindia Gallery, Room 3101, 3201, OP Garden, 4-6 Charoen Krung Soi 36, 02-238-6410.

Siam's newest attraction is not inside the malls, but between them. After a long two years and B300 million of renovations, the skywalk above the busy Pathumwan intersection reopened last week and doubles as Bangkok's latest art installation. The raised platform links many of Siam's top destinations, namely BACC, Siam Discovery, MBK and BTS National Stadium, with a design that references water lilies (Pathumwan means "lotus" in Thai). What's more, the lily pad-like structures which provide shade for passers-by have been covered in art by 13 renowned street artists: Yuree Kensaku, P7 (Peerapong Limthamrong), Jackkrit Anantakul, Rukkit Kuanhawate, Maythee Noijinda, TRK, Pruch Sintunava, Peap Tarr & Lisa Mam, Mauy, JECK BKK, Floyd and Channarong Klugiad. The local businesses behind the project, led by Siam Synergy, hope the skywalk will become a destination in its own right, with the BACC in particular planning more art exhibitions for the outdoor space. They're also giving the public the chance to name the new skywalk, with the winner claiming B100,000. See www.siamsynergy.com for details. The deadline is Sep 4.

FILM NEWS The Promise NEW OPENING A New Creative Hub by the Khlong

Nestled down an alley near BACC, right beside Sansab Canal, Yelo House is a new art space, co-working hub, studio and cafe rolled in one. Set to open on Aug 19, the venue is the brainchild of Hans Werner Muller, the creative director of HWM consultancy firm, and Sallayawate Prasertwittayakarn, co-founder of Atelier Of Architects, who’ve renovated an abandoned warehouse by the khlong into a two-story hub of art and creativity. First up for events, they’ll welcome Thai singer/songwriter Thanachai Uchin, aka Pod Moderndog, to host his art exhibition “Pod Art” this Aug 24. 20/2 Soi Kasemsan 1, Rama 1 Rd., 089-777-2322. BTS National Stadium

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Sathorn Unique Tower, better known as Charoenkrung Road’s abandoned “Ghost Tower,” is set to play a leading role in GDH’s forthcoming horror film directed by Sophon Sakdaphisit (Ladda Land and The Swimmers). In cinemas Sep 7, The Promise looks back at 20 years since the 1997 Tom Yum Kung financial crisis through the life of a businesswoman. At the time of the crisis, she made a promise to her best friend that they would end their lives together at Sathorn Unique. But while she somehow survived and went on to forge a successful career, her friend was not so lucky. Now that friend is back to see that the promise is fulfilled. We’re especially intrigued given that the building’s owner, Pansit Torsuwan, has previously spoken out against the prospect of films shot on his property. "Lots of people have wanted to use the tower as a movie location but I have refused them all. I even turned down a Hollywood movie—Superman, I think—because if people recognized it, the tower would become an even bigger attraction. If someone proposed a documentary that I thought would benefit others, then I might say yes," he told us earlier this year.

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now

GUIDES

FILM

Opening June

Cafe Society 2017 Bangkok’s coolest hangout spots for brunch, coffee, sweets and all-day bites.

August PHANTOM OF ILLUMINATION (THAILAND)

GHOST HOUSE (USA)

Documentary. A story following the life of a middle-aged movie projectionist after the shutdown of Thonburi Rama cinema.

Horror. During a vacation to Thailand, a young American couple accidentally disrespect a spirit with horrifying consequences.

SILENCE

OVERDRIVE (USA)

Drama/History. Martin Scorsese adapts Shusaku Endo’s 1966 novel for the big screen, telling the story of two Jesuit priests from Portugal who embark on a mission to Japan to track down their mentor, who rumor has it has turned his back on the Catholicism.

Action. Two car thief half-brothers travel to the south of France to seek new opportunities, but ends up messing with the wrong guy putting their girlfriends’ lives in jeopardy.

September

November

NET I DIE (THAILAND)

GINTAMA (JAPAN)

Horror. Footage of a net idol’s death is posted online with the names of five others, sparking a spate of murders.

Action. This live-action take on the popular manga sees a young samurai try to survive as best he can after aliens invade feudal Japan.

ON THE COVER

Phi Phi island

PEACH GIRL (JAPAN)

Romance/Comedy . Based on the comic book of the same name, this story follows a high school girl who tries every way possible to win the heart of her crush.

1 COVER_New 1.indd 1

November 12/8/16 5:47 PM

Upcoming (Aug 24) March’18

THE BEGUILED (USA)

Drama. Sofia Coppola’s remake of the ‘70s classic takes place during the American Civil War and follows the jealousies, sexual tensions and moral dilemmas that follow when an all-girls shelter in Virginia takes in a wounded Union soldier.

AN INCONVENIENT SEQUEL: TRUTH TO POWER (USA)

Documentary. This follow-up documentary to An Inconvenient Truth follows former US Vice President Al Gore as he continues his mission to raise awareness of climate change and influence international policy.

December

KOOK JEYEOUNG (THAILAND)

Comedy. A K-pop superstar forms an unlikely friendship with an ordinary high school boy in Northeastern Thailand and they help one another out with their lovesick problems. THE HITMAN’S BODYGUARD (USA)

LORD OF SHANGHAI (CHIANA)

Action/Comedy. The world’s leading bodyguard has a mission to escort a hitman to the Court of Justice. Stars Ryan Reynolds and Samuel Jackson.

Drama. A woman seeks revenge for the assassination of her husband, a former Shanghai mafia mobster.

Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life. To be featured in our upcoming 2017-2018 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9654 1/2V_VHP 2.indd 1

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