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BK MAGAZINE NO. 714 FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2017. www.bkmagazine.com
Eat Out This year’s coolest alfresco openings
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What’s the best bar on Thonglor? Which cocktail joint serves Bangkok’s best drinks? Where can you find this city’s biggest selection of craft brews?
22 v o is N h t ut ch o n u d a l Fin n we whe
st e be e t u l abso wesom e h t a d to r—just e t a edic . No fille k. d s e e kok to drin ori g g n th i n e t a s e a B e c v n guid venues g 24 tclubs i team lo e n e i r r f 0 h tu as a over 40 wnload Fea and nig the BK e l e do zine. ailab und at r v bars es wher O a aga n). s is ine, fo u m o d i r n k t a e b u v z w t b D. A K Maga m/distri nward a . A . BK B sue of B zine.co ov 23 o e h a T 24 is bkmag y from N v o ( N ide DF cop w y t i c ee P ards. r f r you badaw ar! / b m e o h c t u at o y e ll se ’ e W
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page 3 What We’ve Learned 6 cover story
Get Out 4 upfront
12 escapes
Behind Bars
Phit Stop
16 avenue
20 bites
In the Pink
Gold Fish
22 bites
24 bites
Broken Recipe
Forks Out
Who's in charge? Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Subeditor Mai Nardone Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Assistant Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon Junior Writers Kankanok Wichiantanon, Kasidit Srivilai, Neon Boonyadhammakul Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Deputy Art Director Peeraya Sirathanisa Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Watcharawit Phudork Video Content Manager Chanon Wongsatayanont Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Pattanagorn Adirekkiat
Where to find us!
The Asia City Media Group
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Marketing Executive Sarocha Satawiriya Junior Marketing Executive Narabhutr Thaemsiri ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinators Nutnicha Nuttanakorn, Peerada Chotiya Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writer Theerada Moonsiri Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associate Prawpraew Pairohg
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Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Contributors Kathy MacLeod Interns Korapon Kanchanabudhu, Ratchaneekorn Sriamnad, Rowan Usher Cover design by Anunya Chobnitas
Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
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BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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That Ekkamai’s been transformed by giant Stranger Things street art Local artists Teerayut Puchpen and Ekkawat Wimonkaew have decked out the old Sonic nightclub with vivid wall murals in honor of the Netflix hit show’s second series. In addition to the massive red and black artwork, a lifesize sculpture of actress Millie Bobby Brown’s character Eleven offers a prime photo op. Better hurry before it all gets wiped off on Nov 30. That Thonglor’s got a new live and loud music venue De Commune (www.fb.com/De.Commune.BKK) takes over an abandoned room in the Liberty Plaza building with live music Wed-Sun. The setting is basic (raw industrial, red neon lights) and so are the drinks (Singha, Leo, Heineken), letting the music (everything from underground techno-house to heavy rock) do the talking. Opening night last weekend saw Desktop Error, Blues Tape and Penny Time play to a packed crowd of indie-heads, and we think there’s a lot more to come. That Soi 11 favorites are making a comeback New Zealand-style fish and chips specialist Snapper (www. fb.com/SnapperNZ) was one of a raft of restaurants and bars forced to shut down last year when an unnamed alley off Sukhumvit Soi 11 was earmarked for development. One year later and it’s hopped across Sukhumvit Road to launch afresh on Soi 8. Three-decade-old dive bar Cheap Charlie’s, meanwhile, will reopen later this month in On Nut. (See page 19.) That Ari now has its own W District A-One Ari (www.fb.com/aoneari) is a new community mall on Ari Soi 1 that calls itself an “urban yard.” The star attraction is an open-air food court that brings to mind Phra Khanong’s bustling cluster of food and drink kiosks. Like W District, the dining options chart a hodge-podge of international options, from tacos to Thai chicken noodles. The key differences: this one is under cover and more of a daytime spot (open 11am8pm and closed, weirdly, on Sundays). That Monocle has chosen Bangkok for its first real estate project Tyler Brule, the founder of the trendsetting media company, told British newspaper the Guardian he plans to build a luxury condominium here in league with local property developer Sansiri (which now owns a 12.5% share in Monocle) that will spearhead a new, as-yet-unnamed real estate brand. This project, he said, would look to turn into reality the decor tips and tasteful lifestyle espoused by his magazine. Also on the way: a Monocle Cafe, as well as the magazine’s newest bureau.
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@bkmagazine BK Magazine Friday, November 17, 2017
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upfront HOT OR NOT
Hot: Vietnamese bars Not: Chinese bars Another week, another appearance for Chinese-theme bars somewhere in this column. But they’re back on the crappy side thanks to a new place called Happy Endings that’s stepped up its oriental game with a Vietnam theme. That means you get pho and fragrant, herb salads to go with your usual dosage of neon pink lights and Chinoiserie chic. We’re in.
JUSTICE
Hot: On Nut
Not: Soi 11
We’ll admit to saying some pretty nasty things about On Nut in the past. But then this week we actually went there, and discovered a place called The Beacon. We don’t know what it is they’re selling for B388 and calling “Japanese wagyu” but we do know it’s damn tasty. With Cheap Charlie’s set to join this little community of bargain foodie pleasures, it is officially about to become the new Soi 11.
Hot: Tax breaks
Not: Massage parlors
Wallop Tangkananurak’s pissed. The NLA member has a bone to pick with the government tax break scheme that until Dec 3 lets you claim up to B15,000 in taxes back. Doesn’t matter if it’s for iPhones, fancy dinners or—and this is the bit Wallop’s upset about—two hours with no. 14 at Poseidon. But then exempting massage parlours from the VAT rebate scheme would be like acknowledging they exist. Which they don’t.
Hot: Fact checking
Not: BK Magazine
This is where we get to make our corrections from last week. Case in point: So Sofitel’s cheesy buffet bonanza on Dec 1, which costs B1,399 instead of the B999 that it used to, unlike what we wrote. That makes it quite a bit less exciting but, more importantly, it also makes us wrong. Hopefully we don’t turn this intro a regular feature of Hot or Not.
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
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A day in Thonburi Remand Prison
On July 18, the Thonburi Remand Prison became the first prison in the world to adopt the UN’s “Nelson Mandela Rules,” which hope to set a worldwide standard for prisoner treatments. Last week, we spent a day at the facility to experience exactly how progressive these rules are for Thai justice. It’s midday at Thonburi Remand Prison, a 26-rai facility that opened in 1994, and inmates are engaged in a rum Thai (traditional dance) performance under the huge canopy of an open auditorium. Watching the kratoey inmates dressed in traditional makeup, the show feels no different to one at a temple fair. We could almost forget the high walls separating this world from that outside. The performance is part of a raft of new measures that aims to bring the prison in line with the United Nations’ Nelson Mandela Rules: “respect for prisoners’ inherent dignity; humane and limited disciplinary measures; treatment according to need and without discrimination; the further protection of society by reducing rates of re-offense; and valuing the safety of all prisoners, staff and visitors.” Our hosts were Thitipun Manujantarat, the director of Court Custody and the man behind the prison’s adoption of the Mandela Rules, and Surased Roongin, director of the Custodial Division. Thitipun has much to be proud of: his progressive approach to prison management has brought the facility regional acclaim, with peers from other provinces visiting the facility to learn and adopt techniques. Thitipun made sure we got a look at the equipment in his health
clinic, the only one in Central Thailand, he told us, that offers treatment for those with mental disabilities. As we left the clinic, we passed a fenced area where prisoners sat in disconcertingly still rows, eyes trained on a television. “It helps them to focus,” Thitipun explained, noticing our gaze. There was a deliberate stillness to the prison while we visited, the feel of a place holding its breath. When we entered a video room for new arrivals, we again found rows of very still prisoners, brown-clad, waiting for us. Certain prison conventions are inescapable. The natural hierarchy of guard to prisoner, for example. In this case, the shrinking deference displayed by prisoners is perhaps exacerbated by the hierarchy in Thai society, part an internalized respect of station, and part greangjai. We paused outside the dormitories, where a roster listed the names of inmates along with their crimes. “Seventy-two-percent of the inmates are here because of drug-related crimes,” Thitipun said. “Mostly, they were small-time suppliers, people who needed to make quick, easy money.” Despite the talk of “treating them like family,” the prisoners were required to squat and turn their backs to us wherever we passed, a club-wielding guard
standing over them. The officials insisted that this was a standard procedure for our safety. Thitipun explained that part of the prison’s success comes from giving the prisoners some license over how they live within the prison, like choosing their own recreational activities. “We are best known for our handicrafts and artwork,” he said. And so we arrived at what was truly inspiring and unexpected about this facility: an art gallery and classroom. The single art teacher could be identified by his clothing. Otherwise, it was a portrait of craftsmen at work. Again, we encountered the hushed atmosphere, but here the stillness was genuine. The prisoners barely noticed us, so consumed were they in sculpting a khon mask, or carving the elephant trunk on a statue of Phra Pikanet (Ganesha), or finishing the sky in a watercolor painting. The art can be bartered for credits at the prison store, or purchased by outsiders. Gen. Prayuth Chan-ocha recently bought five wood carvings for B6,900 each. “I studied art,” Thitipun said, and emphasized its meditative, soothing quality. “Only one person who has gone through this room has [after being released] recommitted his crime.” Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
BK Magazine Friday, November 17, 2017
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cover story
Head Outside
Make the most of the cool breeze with this year's best new rooftops, alfresco terraces and gardens. By BK Staff Brewski
the likes of marinated prawn skewer (B430) served with to-die-for pomme dauphine, and chilled soups like carrot and coriander with salad (B180). 50 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-235-4822. Open Wed-Sun 11:30am-11pm; Mon 11:30am-11pm
Brewski
Changwon Express
Batt Tempura
Batt Tempura
Le Cabanon
Sitting beneath faux-hemian craft cocktail joint Sugar Ray, Batt Tempura’s operation stretches to four tables plonked in a parking lot and a cupboard-sized kiosk where young chef Jakrachai “Champ” Ruayrean mans the stoves (or rather, stove). His fry-work might not be on par with the grease-free finest of Thaniya’s salaryman strongholds, but there’s definitely charm to his moist, lightly battered whiting (B65/2 pieces) and sticky, sweet shrimp (B85/2 pieces). Vegetables taste guiltily excellent too, whether it’s the marshmallow-soft bite of a plump slice of pumpkin (B40/2 pieces) or satisfyingly non-watery shiitake mushroom (B30). 77 Ekkamai Soi 21, 089-016-5565. Open Tue-Sun 2-11pm
Birds Rotisserie
Birds is one of the rarest of things in 2017 Bangkok: an excellent restaurant that will cost you under B1,000 a head including booze. Order up a whole roast chicken with all the trimmings (B875), and share it among friends out on the spacious, lounge-like terrace with plenty of the not-too-shabby house red (B140/glass).
Arroz
Blue Parrot
Blue Parrot
Arroz
A house-turned-restaurant whose name literally translates to “rice” in Spanish, Arroz vies for the title of best-paella-in-town with the offerings of Spanish chef-owner Victor Burgos. Quaintly residential, the property also features a generous garden, where you’ll find plenty of typically Mediterranean patio furnishings, terracotta tiles and colorful mosaics—the perfect spot to share huge pans of seafood paella (B2,300 for four). 112 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7696. Open daily 5:30pm-10pm Chez Jay
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garden
Here’s a restaurant plucked straight out of vibrant Phuket and squeezed between Bangkok’s drab high rises. Behind tiki-looking wooden-panel doors, you’ll find a yard brimming with coral reef-inspired colors, a pool, and even a petanque strip. The open-air setup lets you kick back on a sunbed or in a mini cabana, while there's a dedicated play area to keep the little ones occupied. Taking cues from his homeland, French chef Nicolas Valanchon keeps things light and easy with
riverside
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Brewski feels like going to the rooftop of your condo for a beer. Shelves and lights made from plumbing fixtures add the requisite industrial touch. The best views are to be had from the balcony bar stools at the edge of the venue set 30 floors above the ground. Grab a draft La Chouffe (B280/pint) and chow down on Thai beer snacks like sai krok Isaan (Thai-style pork sausages with fresh chili, ginger and peanuts, B120). 30/F, Radisson Blu Plaza, 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-302-3333. Open daily 5pm-1am
Le Cabanon
Another old-house-turned-restaurant in the rising Narathiwat neighbourhood, Le Cabanon serves up Mediterranean seafood dishes in a setting that evokes holiday homes in the French coastal town of Cap Ferret. Enjoy an evening out on the dark wood terrace under sky-blue beach umbrellas with dishes like the scallop carpaccio (B450) followed by grilled lobster (B900-1,800). 44 Akhan Songkhro Soi 3, 092-568-0444. Open Tue-Fri 5-11pm
Changwon Express at Flow House Located above urban surf park Flow House, the upstairs bar is an inner-city oasis. Outside on the balcony, let the artificial turf, palm trees, wicker beach loungers and sound of rushing water whisk you far away from hectic city life. Pull up a stool at the long bar overlooking the wave machine, watch the tricks (and wipe-outs) below, and knock back the exotic, dark purple Stone Head with Butterfly Pea (B200) beer. A-Square 26, 120/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 095-4451465. Open daily 5pm-midnight
Chez Jay At first glance Chez Jay looks like little more than a boho collection of sofas, stools and low tables blending with the trees and string lighting of an open-air mall. The bar is outside because inside there’s barely room for the single dining table and a small kitchen. The
rooftop
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cover story the menu highlights cured gravlax salmon (B380) accompanied by homemade wasabi sauce and tangy lemon cream. 459/61 Suan Phlu Soi 8, 095-496-1142. Open Tue-Sat 5pm-1am
Mojjo Dim Dim
Mojjo
Kiaw Kai Ga
Bangkok's newest Cuban-themed bar sits on the 32nd floor of the Compass SkyView Hotel, where it offers rum-heavy drinks amid sweeping views of Benjasiri Park and downtown. Step inside and be greeted with mid-century Cuban furnishings and green Havana hues. Intricate tile-work and floor patterns transport you, mojito in hand, right back to the 1950s. Outdoors is a spacious openair terrace complete with comfortable armchairs. Start your night with The Ruby (B370), an easyto-drink mix of Belvedere vodka, elderflower syrup, strawberry puree and cranberry juice. Above it sits the rooftop Vanilla Sky (see page 10) 32/F, Compass SkyView Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-011-1111. Open daily 5pm-2am
Nowhere
Pizza Massilia
Goji Terrace
Kiaw Kai Ga
Set in a glasshouse replete with tropical touches, this restaurant is a new reason to brave the congested traffic of Lad Phrao. Hanging ferns, banana-leaf wallpaper and vintage parquet floors complement rustic Thai food from all around the country. Thanks to the massive glass window, you can get as much natural light sitting inside as outside. Try the yum pak kood (B180), made with an edible fern from the chef’s own garden in Ratchaburi. Nowhere
food is Mediterranean-Italian (marinated anchovies [B200], lasagna [B325]), while the wine is excellent and affordable (starting around B200/glass). G/F, 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 092-639-2895. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-1am
Coastal
This low-key bamboo shack on the lawn of Kram restaurant is classier than your typical Koh Phangan joint. Pull up a stool and enjoy some laid-back conversation with the bartender or claim a patch of grass out on a lawn strewn with old-style mats, triangle cushions and coffee tables. The Sweet Juan (B280) mixes chili-infused tequila with fresh pineapple juice, lime and cilantro, garnished with a slightly burnt big chili, for a flavor that's fresh with just a hint of fire, is the perfect hangover-cure. 113 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 098-253-9356. Open MonFri 5pm-1am; Sat-Sun 3pm-1am
Cru Champagne
The bar’s located on what used to be a helicopter landing pad on top of the five-star hotel Centara Grand at CentralWorld. Access Cru from a little elevator at Red Sky, which drops you out right on top of the hotel, where you get a stunning, 59th-floor, 360-degree view of Bangkok. The drinks list is all about Cham-
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Rawee Ganraya
pagne, so come prepared to order a bottle of G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut (B5,400).
33 Nak Niwat Rd., 095-949-9299. Open daily 11am-midnight
Lhong 1919
Ekkamai’s new rooftop restaurant might only be six floors up, but there's nothing obstructing its cool, 180-degree views of the neighborhood. Once up there, you'll be greeted by bare concrete steps in the center of a minimal glass cube. And thanks to its floor-to-ceiling windows, you can enjoy sunset from either in- or outdoor tables. The continent-spanning dishes play with global flavors, from a Thai plahang tangmo-derived watermelon salad (with spinach, bonito flakes, shaved Parmesan cheese and sumac vinaigrette, B210) to pulled pork and mango quesadilla (B229). 6/F, Tha City Loft hotel, Ekkamai Soi 6, 094-516-6663. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnigh
Pizza Massilia
The new Pizza Massilia's raw wooden boards, an exposed ceiling and screens of foliage give the bright blue interior tropical-warehouse edge over Ruamrudee’s classical stylings, while the fairylight-strewn garden seating is just what the neighborhood ordered. Try one of these fancy specials, like fassone beef carpaccio (B590), or keep it simple with a margherita (B290) and one of the best burrata salads in town (B1,290 for 250g/B1,690 for 500g). 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-015-0297. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-midnight
Pesca Mar & Terra Bistro
The candlelit space exudes oriental cool through vintage Chinese tea boxes, rows of waving lucky cats and splashes of red. A slender outside counter seats just four, where you can order up a Chinese jerky-infused old fashioned (B360), chase it with a chrysanthemum vodka shot (B280) and bump knuckles with friends as they come and go from next door’s Peppina.
While we were ogling the makeover of Warehouse 30’s old storage facilities on Charoenkrung, local design firm PIA Interior went and did the same over on the Khlong San side of the river. Lhong 1919 takes a group of old warehouses and a Chinese shrine dating back to King Rama IV (1851-1868) and turns them into 6,800 sq meters of co-working space, eateries and art and design shops spotlighting the work of young artists. This winter, you’ll find us perched at Rong See Rim Nam (the newest brainchild of iBerry) eating miang dok bua (lotus petal wrap with Thai-style condiments, B230) by the river.
Cocotte’s sister restaurant ditches the farmhouse for the Mediterranean seaside, serving up imported seafood alongside hefty slabs of meat. The outdoor area features an a la plancha (flat-top grill) station, from which you can order grilled fare. Get the Spanish-style big plates like a paella (B2,400, feeds two) in which bomba rice is cooked in lobster bisque with half a Maine lobster and chicken.
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-085-2788. Open TueSat 6:30pm-1:30am
248 Chiang Mai Rd., 091-187-1919. Open daily 8am-8pm
Rawee Ganraya
Goji Terrace
Loulou forks and glasses
59/F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-1234. Open daily 5pm-1am
Dim Dim
This alfresco bar is located round the back of the Marriot Marquis hotel, facing right onto Benjasiri Park. As a result, there’s a residential-neighborhood feel to drinking here that feels totally unlike Bangkok. Booze focuses on draft beers like Brewdog Punk IPA 5.6% (B230 for 250ml; B350 for 470ml), Maisel's Weisse Original 5.2% (B200; B330) and La Chouffe 8% (B240; B370). L/F, Marriott Marquis Queen's Park, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-059-5999. Open daily 6am-11pm
This laidback French restaurant serves up flavors with an exciting Mediterranean touch. Drop by for an easygoing after-work vibe in the glasshouse-like, artwork-dotted interior, or lounge back on a white sofa under patio umbrellas on the terrace. For dishes like the stracciatella salad (B430), the kitchen sources its milky, gooey cheese from a producer in Chiang Mai, while the Royal Projects vegetables ensure crisp, refreshing bite. Elsewhere,
39 Ekkamai Soi 12, 063-267-7778. Open daily 11am-3pm, 6-11:45pm
The Raweekanlaya is a new boutique hotel in the Old Town whose grand colonial structure can be traced back to the late 1800s. Now there’s a genuine reason to settle yourself down on its terrace shaded by gorgeous old banyan trees: a new Thai menu that spotlights ingredients plucked straight from the hotel’s organic garden, such as beetroot and roselle. Try the grilled beef steak with sticky rice and Thai melon salad (B640) to go with a refreshing butterfly pea or pandanus juice (B80). 172 Krung Kasem Rd., 02-628-5999. Open daily 6:30am-10pm
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cover story CHAO PHRAYA
Know Your Riverside Drinking We’ve all tried and failed to find that perfect riverside drinking spot when the heat permits. Get it right with this handy guide.
Ciao Terraza Siwilai City Club
Supanniga x Roots
The Summer House Project Sky on 20
Supanniga x Roots
Supanniga x Roots
Siwilai City Club
Tacochela
one common thread: local ingredients used to create Western dishes, often with a Thai twist. The Eatery is Siwilai City Club at its most ambitious, offering inventive morsels like a mushroom panna cotta (B350), while next door’s The Deli offers braised beef brisket in ciabatta (B350) and an Angus beef burger with jaew sauce (B350). Schneider Haus
5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605631. Open daily 11am-midnight; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight
Sky On 20 Schneider Haus
NEW
Just in time for the winter breeze, Bangkok’s newest beer garden has opened in Ari. With links to Bavaria’s Schneider Weisse brewing company, Schneider Haus (www.fb.com/SchneiderHausBangkok) is set in a spacious house hidden in Ari Soi 4 that comes with a nice garden, perfect for this time of year. Pretend it’s properly cold out with a heartwarming bowl of German venison stew (B390) and a big glass of the eponymous beer (B260/500ml). Ari Samphan Soi 4, 098-426-9456. Open daily 5-11:45pm
Siwilai City Club
Giant tie-dye daybeds and hammocks take over a sand-colored terrace looking out over extraordinary Phloen Chit views. This acts as the focal point for two different wings: one dedicated to dining, the other drinking. The six different eateries are all tied together by
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Take the small staircase up from the 25th floor and be greeted by an open-air space filled with a mix of circular couches and low seating in pastel grays. The laidback garden vibe is complemented with a few trees wrapped in fairy lights, but otherwise the decoration is toned down from your usual rooftop bar, allowing the views to speak for themselves. Our favorite dish: the parma ham pizza (B430). 26/F, Novotel Bangkok Hotel, 19/9 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-009-4999. Open daily 5pm-2am
SpareParts
The top two stories (plus half a rooftop) of Charoenkrung hipster hangout FooJohn Building is a new barbecue and bourbon house. Deli-Q food truck's Texas-born owner Caitlin Lee Chullasapya takes care of the rooftop smoke pit, where she smokes her ribs (starta at B420) for 6-8 hours, along with delicious Sriracha-marinated chicken wings (B180). 3-4/F, FooJohn, 831 Charoenkrung Soi 31, 087593-9973. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-midnight
This is the riverside Thai restaurant Bangkok's been waiting for. The third branch of Supanniga sits on the deck of Tha Tien’s Riva Arun, where the scenery is paired with decor that's a cozy mix of earthy tones and vibrant splashes of yellow and orange, and the food (Trat and Khon Kaen cuisine in flavorful standbys like chili paste crabmeat, B240) is complemented by a special coffee menu from Roots. Riva Arun, 392/25-26 Maharaj Rd., 02-714-7608, 02-015-4224. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm
Tacochela
Mikkeller, the Danish microbrewery that opened a bar in Ekkamai in 2014, follows it up with a new Ari bar and restaurant specializing in tacos. Fun and playful, with rainbow-colored chairs and brightly painted window frames contrasting with the exposed white brick. The laidback beanbags from the lawn of Mikkeller Ekkamai also make a return, albeit in a smaller outdoor space. As for the tacos, go with the fried barracuda (B280) coated in a crispy thin batter and drizzled in spicy mayo, or the beef steak (B220) with herby chimichurri sauce. Ari Samphan Soi 1, Phahon Yothin Rd. Open Tue-Thu 5-11pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-midnight
Vanilla Sky Rooftop Bar
This rooftop bar takes over the top of the Compass SkyView Hotel, with views stretching over Thonglor in one direction and towards downtown from the other. Despite some simple, wooden furniture upholstered in vibrant prints, and a sprinkling of palm trees, the massive marble bar backlit with colored LED lights retains a distinctly “sky bar” vibe. Our favorite drink, the Honey Spice (B350), sees dried chili-infused gin mixed with homemade honey-and-rosemary-infused syrup and tonic water, garnished with dried chili for a well-balanced kick. 35/F, Compass SkyView Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-011-1111. Open daily 5pm-2am
CIAO TERRAZA
High so
The swanky Mandarin Oriental hotel’s most affordable eatery dishes out wood-fired pizzas at mortal prices (starting B340) right beside the Chao Phraya River. As you enter through the venerable Author’s Lounge, you’d never guess you and your date can get away for under a grand apiece— just go easy on the B260 Singhas. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok , 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40, Oriental Ave., 02-6599000
JACK'S
lo so
Tucked behind the Shangri-La hotel on Pier no. 2 you’ll find a riverside drinking den of the old school— flexing plastic chairs, classic Thai stir fries (including a knockout pad krapao, B120) and ice-cool, sub-B100 Leos. God bless you, Jack’s. Pier 2, Charoenkrung Soi 42/1. Open daily noon-2am
THE SUMMER HOUSE PROJECT
hip ster
Starchitect Duangrit Bunnag followed up Never Ending Summer with this Euro bistro with a vast terrace that leads right up to the water. Comfort food like fisherman’s stew (B240), crab cakes (B350) and beer-battered fish and chips (B550) go down as easily as bar manager Dheeradon Dissara's Thai-infused cocktails. 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0953
AVANI
roof top
There is a reason to visit T h o n b u r i . I t st a n d s 2 6 stories above the Chao Phraya, offers cocktails with a floral, flamboyant edge and serves Asian-influenced tapas plates at not-too-crazy prices (think B200-400). Avani Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-431-9100
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escapes
Talad Tai
PHITSANULOK
Culture Central
Five hours from Bangkok, Phitsanulok is like Ayutthaya without the crowds. By Kankanok Wichiantanon Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat
P
hitsanulok is the Thai town of your sepia-filtered dreams. It’s quiet and quaint—essentially, it’s what Bangkok’s not, and that’s why you need to go. Don’t expect entertainment hubs and a dolled up shopping area. Instead, embed yourself in an old way of life: rise early, walk the markets, grab a coffee, and queue toe-to-heel with other locals in the roti line. Visit in December and January, when the temperature is perfect for long wanders through the town’s ancient temple complexes.
EAT
Talad Tai Morning Market At 7am, this morning market is bustling with people folding traditional desserts into banana leaves, or frying batches of battered chicken, or stemming baskets of chilies. A bunch of bananas is a mere B25-B30, and B40 will get you an entire watermelon. At the market are some of the town’s enduring food stands, such as a 40-year-old dessert place and a noodle stall that’s at least 50.
Nureya Roti For over a decade, Nureya (088-293-6887, open daily 7am-10pm) has been serving up the finest dough in Talad Tai. It’s a family business: Dad cooks the roti, Mom douses it with condensed milk, and Son, off to the side, fries doughnuts. You’ll find the classic “sugar&milk” (B10), sliced banana and eggs (B25), and the less common, savory mataba (Indian spiced potatoes, B35). Arrive before 8:30am.
Penang Steak Brasserie If there’s such a thing as hi-so dining in Phitsanulok, you’ll find it at Penang Steak Brasserie (www.fb.com/penangsteak, open daily 10:30am-10pm). Once an electronics store, the space has been renovated in industrial style. The wine list is good, but the real draw of this Phitsanulok favorite is the combination of wellexecuted Thai classics and Thai-spiked Western dishes. That’s to say nothing of its affordability compared to Bangkok’s restaurants. Try the crispy German pork hock served with mashed potato and pickled radish (B249).
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Wat Phra Si (known to locals as Wat Yai) has sat on the banks of the Nan River since 1357 (that’s over 660 years). In the main pagoda is Phra Buddha Chinnarat, sheathed in real gold and crowned with a unique fiery halo. One of the most beautiful Buddha statues in Thailand, it draws Buddhists from across the country. A golden, Khmer-style prang completes the beauty of the temple. The temple is up a steep flight of stairs and, unfortunately, only opens to visitors during the month of January.
VISIT
Suan Chom Nan Park The activities on display in Suan Chom Nan Park include exercising, painting, fishing and flirting. Run along the riverbanks or join the crowd of aunties in synchronized, aerobic dance. You can even try your foot at thakraw (a rattan ball game). If workouts aren’t your thing, look for Coffee Mania (055-251-133, open daily 9am-10pm), an airconditioned cafe in an old Thai house. It might look haunted from the outside (and, actually, from the inside too) but the coffee’s good and cheap: lattes for B55 and mochas for B60.
Kaeng Song Waterfall Located 40 minutes from town, Kaeng Song Waterfall is 150 meters wide and 10 meters high. The falls' many levels, streams and pools make favorite picnic places for families. Adults lounge on the banks while children dip in and out of the pools. Aug-Jan is the best time to visit because there’s more water.
Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park This national park offers a variety of terrain, from waterfalls to lush forests to gnarled rocks. The park is 130km from the town center and 1,617 meters above sea level. From 19671982, the Communist Party of Thailand was headquartered here. You can hike past the old meeting hall, the political school, even the caves where the communists hid from
Coffee Mania
government forces. Entry costs B40 for Thais, but a hefty B500 for foreigners. If you’re coming in the winter months, you may want to rent a tent and stay overnight. Call to make reservations at 081-596-5977.
Chan Palace School boys discovered these ruins following a stray kick during a soccer game. A subsequent archeological excavation uncovered the home of King Naresuan—beloved king of Myanmar-battling fame. King Naresuan is believed to have lived here between 1584 and 1593, a time when the area was a key part of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. The site is now a historical museum, open daily from 9am-4pm and entry is free.
PARTY
Camper Bar and Lager Cafe Befitting our nostalgia-themed trip, the Camper Bar (www. fb.com/camperngi, open daily 6pm-midnight) occupies an old, wooden Thai-style building. Inside, it’s funky-hippie: vintage pictures, colorful posters, dim lights and splintering wood walls. It’s crowded on Friday and Saturday nights, so arrive early. Lager Cafe (www.fb.com/lagercafePL, oppen daily 10am-midnight) is a relative newcomer, and stocks an impressive selection of craft beers both local and imported. Get a seat by the big window. When night falls, the golden streetlights flood the bar—pretty romantic.
Essentials GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Phitsanulok is 377km from Bangkok—about a five-hour drive. Phitsanulok Yan Yon (busticket-th.com) will get you there in six hours by bus, with prices starting at B600 for a round trip. Flying takes only 40 minutes (if you book early). Round-trip options include Nok Air (www.nokair.com, B1,898), AirAsia (www.airasia.com, B1,180) and Lion Air (www.lionairthai.com, B1,140).
WHERE TO STAY BOUTIQUE
Yodia Heritage Hotel
Dragon River Avenue Hotel
This sleek, minimalist boutique stay also comes at minimal cost. B3,400 is all it takes to snag a pool-side room that also comes with its own Jacuzzi.
Taking over a large, elegant house with a preponderance of dark wooden furniture, this is probably the fanciest hotel in town. Stay in one of two 78-sq-meter suites that connect directly to a swimming pool from B3,300/night.
Set on the riverside, this hotel decked out in bright orange and neutral tones is just a short walk to Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, Chan Palace and Suan Chom Nan Park. Room rates start at B1,090/night.
88/8 Moo 7, Sriharajdechochai Rd., Watchan, 055-335-233-4. www.thezensehotel.com. The Zense Boutique Hotel
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BUDGET
The Zense Boutique Hotel
89/1 Phutthabucha Rd., 055-214-677. www.yodiaheritage.com
27/54 Ekatossarot Rd., T. Naimuang, 055242-242. www.dragonriver-avenue.com
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ESCAPE ROUTES By Kankanok Wichiantanon
CHIANG MAI
Cross Country After last month's launch of X2 Vibe Pattaya SeaPhere, boutique hotel chain X2 has just unveiled something special in Chiang Mai. Situated right on the bank of the Ping River, X2 Chiang Mai Riverside Resort (x2resorts.com/resorts/chiang-mai-riverside) takes inspiration from Wat U-Mong, Chiang Mai's Lanna-style temple known for its maze-like tunnels. Red brick walls and carved pathways blend with modern design elements and facilities like a rooftop gym, pool and bar with views of Doi Suthep and the vibrant city of Chiang Mai. The five-story building's 30 rooms come in four types: Tamarind Suite (B7,009/night), View Riverfront (B8,505/night), Grand Suite River (B12,617/night) and Pool Suite River View (B21,495/night). The hotel's riverside location places it a seven-minute rot daeng (Chiang Mai transportation truck) ride from the old city. Hungry? Oxygen features international cuisine from chef Nicolas Isnard who owns one-Michelinstar restaurant L'Auberge de la Charme in Prenois, France.
PHETBURI
DIY Coffee Kofuku Coffee & Bistro (080-113-4567, goo.gl/Bd4SBG) is Phetburi’s contribution to the DIY dining trend. Get your coffee snob on by moonlighting as roaster and barista, a process that will take you from green bean to steaming cup. Hand-pick your beans, roast them on a tiny pan, and choose from the many brewing methods, including the chemistry-set siphon, nitro cold brew, the moka pot, or just the good ol’ drip. The fruits of your labor? A drink you can call your own. The cafe does have a drum roaster (no, you’re not allowed to use it) where New Guinea and Kenya beans are roasted. For a novel drink, order the rainbow latte (B80-100), which is poured with milks of different color. Purists will want to try the punchy ristretto (B80100). The café serves Thai food, but it’s quarantined in another section lest the aromas bleed over. What did we tell you? Bona fide coffee snobs. Moo 7, Tambon Rai Makham, Amphoe Ban Lat, 080-113-4567. Open daily 6:30am-18:30pm
SINGAPORE
Luxe for Less Andaz (singapore.andaz.hyatt.com), the Hyatt’s innovative twist on the ritzy boutique, is coming to downtown Singapore. The brand is known for being distinctive and luxurious but affordable, with prices on par with Moxy (Marriott’s boutique brand). The decor of The Andaz Singapore matches textures and colors found in Indian and Malay handicrafts with modern minimalism, resulting in spare but warm, earth-toned rooms. The Andaz even has a built-in retail alley that mimics a street shopping experience within the comfort of the hotel. The 342 rooms start at a rate of B9,020/night and come with floor-to-ceiling windows for stunning panoramas of the city. This downtown hotel has direct access to a metro station, and popular must-visits like Little India, Marina Bay, and the historical Kampong Glam are within wandering distance.
FLIGHTS
Away We Go Thai Smile, Thai Airways’ low-cost subsidiary, now has four roundtrip flights per week between Phuket International Airport (HKT) and Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport (CAN). Five-hour flights run on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Guangzhou is China’s third-largest city and the bustling capital of Guangdong province, famous for its authentic Cantonese cuisine. Come for the food and the dramatic view from 600 meters up at Canton Tower, China’s tallest building. For bookings between Nov 1 and 13 for flights from Dec 1 through Jan 31, 2018, Thai Smile’s offering special round-trip rates starting at B7,980. More information at www.thaismileair.com.
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avenue FASHION
Girl Power Party girl loving local brand Milin pairs masculine edge with feminine elegance in its latest resort 2017 collection, Missculine. Aimed at young women looking to flaunt a striking, individual look, it’s sure to be seen modeled on Bangkok’s hi-so socialites and high-powered execs alike. Taking traditional masculine cuts, Milin tailors them into sophisticated womenswear—think satin pant suits, oversized jackets and bold asymmetrical outlines. Plus, power colors like fuchsia and lemon yellow make sure you’ll stand out from the crowd, whether in the office or out on the town. Prices range from B4,250. Available at stores across Bangkok; pick up your latest wardrobe essentials at The EmQuartier, 2/F, Waterfall Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-261-0213. BTS Phrom Phong
SPA
Green House Gaysorn’s expansion into Gaysorn Village has not just brought new restaurants and cafes to the mall. In addition to the second branch of architect Duangrit Bunnag’s Lonely Two Legged Creatures brand (opening soon), the space has also welcomed the first spa-slashstore from Thai luxury spa brand Erb. Erb Bliss Room’s cool mint rooms also feature ivy and flower installations created by funky local headdress designer Eric Tobua. Drop by for spa programs like a floral oil massage (B3,500). You can also grab Erb’s products from the latest collection Seven Pollen (from B1,950). 2/F, Gaysorn Village, Ratchadamri Rd. 02-656-1149. Open daily 11am-8pm
SHOPPING
Less is More COS, the high-brow arm of Sweden’s H&M fashion retailer, has confirmed the opening date of its first Bangkok store. The 625-sq-meter branch will arrive at Phrom Phong’s EmQuartier mall next March. Launched in 2007, COS stands for “Collection of Style,” and is known for its clean shapes and pared-back styling. Bangkok will become the seventh city in Asia to welcome the brand after it arrived in Hong Kong in 2012. It’s reasonable to assume local prices will be comparable to those around Asia, with COS Korea selling men’s shirts at B4,500 while women’s cardigans from B4,000.
SHOPPING
Eye on Art Like it or not, the collaboration between American pop-culture artist Jeff Koons and French luxury house Louis Vuitton is here to stay. After taking five paintings by old masters like Van Gogh and Leonardo Da Vinci and blending them all into Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons Masters collection earlier this year, Koons has now rolled out Masters Collection Chapter 2—available in Bangkok stores now. Taking major works from every top Paris museum, the artist has blended them into a new range of purses, totes and wallets. Artists featured include Francois Boucher, Paul Gauguin, Nicolas Poussin, J.M.W. Turner and Claude Monet, whose Water Lilies makes one iconic print. Before queueing up for half an hour for a Speedy handbag, make sure you have a spare B94,500 to spend. M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-8pm
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avenue FASHION
Millennial Pink Let pink invade your home with these sugary new pieces. By Kasidit Srivilai Paper shelf, Design Letters, B2,950 Ilse Crawford at Plaza 66 Shanghai
Recycled bamboo cup and saucer, Fukura, B200
Stockholm mirror, Ikea, B3,500
Double elastic lined notebook, Taxidermy, B120
Dans L'atelier de Robert Dallet scarf, Hermes, B17,300
Drop chair, Fritz Hansen, B40,900
Essentials
Queen Elizabeth vase, Henry Dean, B8,300
Silk cushion, Chloe Croft,B4,490
Chloe Croft. Available at Object Room, M/F, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26
Henry Dean. Shop online at www.club21global.com
Design Letters. Shop online at www.club21global.com
Hermes. M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.
Fritz Hansen. Soi Somkid
Ikea. Mega Bangna, Bangna-trad Rd.
Fukura. Available at Habitat, 4/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd.
Taxidermy. Available at Object Room, M/F, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26
FASHION These Bangkok boutiques are your answer to cool sleepwear
GLOC
SINCERELY YOURS
DADDY AND THE MUSCLE ACADEMY
Ari’s new multi-store is the brainchild the Padcha “Jun Jun” Poonpiriya, indie-movie darling and The Standard’s fashion writer. Gloc’s focus is local, affordable and Insta-famous brands, but the store’s not beyond stocking international labels when the occasion calls. Bangkok first-timer Sleepy Jones, an American clean-design sleepwear brand (from B5,000), is such an occasion.
Plush velvet robes and embroidered silk pajamas are staples of this sister brand to the fairytale-esque, 15-year-old local favorite Sretsis. Sincerely Yours has spun off with a mission to make unisex loungewear of the finest fabrics. The latest collection, called Oriental Blossom, is inspired by the detailed embroidery of Japanese Hanami Festival kimonos, and also includes panthera-embroidered cheongsam-like satin pajama tops (B9,000) and robes (B25,500).
This ‘90s-referencing, pastel shop from the Instagram-famous retailer is an abundance of middle-school nostalgia, with lockers as product shelves, walls covered in vintage paintings, and hearts, glitter and stickers galore. Apart from girly dresses, cute T-shirts and accessories from Juli Baker and Summer, it also sells affordable, dreamy-print pajama brand Parallel Poetry (from B2,390).
Ari Soi 2. Open daily 11am-9pm
Siam Square Soi 1, 063-894-6954. Open 12pm-9pm
3/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd. Open daily 10am-8pm
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THAILAND’S BEST WINE EVENT BY ASIA’S
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bites & blends
EVENT
Latin Spirit It’s time to don your sombrero and get into the Latin spirit. On Nov 18-19, Thonglor hang-out spot The Commons is hosting Latinorama Festival, a huge event celebrating Mexican and Latin American food, drink and culture. Expect everything from pop-up taco stalls to pinata workshops and flamenco shows. And, of course, lots and lots of tequila. After you’ve hung up your salsa dancing shoes, head to the Barrio Cinema, an outdoor cinema and dinner experience put on by Mexican favorite Barrio Bonito. Or, simply relax with a margarita in hand and listen to the live band and DJs playing Latin beats. Festivities begin at 10am and continue late into the night on Saturday and Sunday. The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 089-152-2677. Open daily 8-1am
EVENT
EVENT
LUNCH
Star Struck
Dinner of Champions
Strictly Business
From Nov 22-25, chef Jean-Marc Banzo will take over the InterContinental Bangkok’s Fireplace Grill & Bar for One Chef, Two Stars, Four Days of Outstanding Dining. The four days of haute French cuisine will see a four-course set lunch (B2,800, plus B1,500 for wine pairings) and a six-course set dinner (B7,500 with wine pairings) prepared by Banzo, who was awarded his first Michelin star at 26 years old, and received a second at his restaurant Le Clos de la Violette. Lunch highlights include red mullet bouillabaisse with John Dory and monkfish stewed potatoes. Those who opt for the dinner can look forward to Mediterranean squid and lobster pie, and a sea urchin souffle with oyster butter. InterContinental Bangkok, G/F, 973 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-0444 ext. 5502. Open MonFri noon-2:30pm; daily 6:30-10:30pm
Hot off winning the first ever Top Chef Thailand, social media darling chef Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam will be showing off her culinary chops at Scarlett Wine Bar and Restaurant on Nov 23-27. Debhakam’s seven a la carte dishes are a coming-together of her French culinary training, locally inflected palate, and personal commitment to sustainable-eating. Look out for the lamb shank massaman curry pie (B890), whole stuffed quail (B1,380) and grilled tiger prawn with charred romesco (B850). 37/F, Pullman Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 089-108-8744. Open daily 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi
To the joy of Ratchadamri’s working elite, Westernized Japanese chain Zuma has launched a new business lunch menu. For just B790, feast on a set menu of miso soup, two starters and a main course. Starter highlights include wagyu beef gyoza with ponzu pepper sauce and fried soft shell crab with wasabi mayo. For mains, it’s a tough choice between marinated chicken and seabass rice dishes, sushi or tempura. If you’re feeling extra fancy, upgrade your main to miso black cod or spicy beef tenderloin (B460 extra). That’s not all, the addition of five tasty new cocktails to the menu created by Southeast Asia World Class Cocktail Award 2016 winner Pailin “Milk” Sajjanit makes Zuma the perfect after-work spot as well. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-4707. Open daily 12-3pm; 6-11pm. BTS Ratchadamri
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EVENTS
Drink up! Bangkok’s moving into booze event season
Thailand Brew Fest
Thailand Brew Fest is back again this Nov 24-25, taking over Quaint restaurant and bar with over 80 labels of beer. Over 20 importers/distributors have joined forces this time. As well as the major beer guys like Boonrawd (Singha & Leo) and Thai Bev (Chang), there’ll be plenty of craft attractions. Highlights include BrewDog, Ballast Point, Little Creatures and Heretic from abroad, along with local beer rock stars like Devanom (our favorite!), Happy New Beer, Stonehead (try their butterfly pea beer!), Chiang Mai, Triple Pearl and Yaksa. One-day tickets are B699, which comes with two beer coupons and one beer glass that you’ll most likely lose or break before the end of the night. We know, we’ve done it. Tickets at www.ticketmelon.com/ event/thailandbrewfest
OPEN DOOR
The Fat Tap Ekkamai’s new beer and barbecue joint from the people behind Fatty’s Bar and Diner. By Rowan Usher and Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
The buzz: Fatty’s Bar and Diner has long been the go-to spot to get your grease fix. Now, owner and barbecue purist Matthew Fischer brings his deliciously calorific menu to Ekkamai with The Fat Tap—half-barbecue joint, halfcraft beer bar, this spot is the real American Dream. The decor: Laidback and unfussy, this bar eschews any of the pretention that can come with specialist craft beer places. The decor may not be particularly original—hanging lightbulbs and exposed concrete obviously featured—but that means all focus is on the food and drink. The long wooden bench piled with comfy cushions is a nice touch, especially when the food coma hits and you need a quick time-out. The food: To long-time fans of Fatty’s, the menu here will look pretty familiar, only slightly more barbecue-heavy. The main event is the ribs (B450/halfrack), which are fall-off-the-bone tender and coated in a sticky, smoky glaze. The sides (we chose beans, coleslaw and fries) don’t outshine the ribs by any stretch but are tasty enough for when you need a break from meat. It’s hard to go wrong with deep-fried cheese, as proven by the herby, tangy, dangerously moreish Wisconsin cheese curds (B220). The menu has no illusions of grandeur, instead focusing on honest North American grub. One of Canada’s greatest drunk food inventions, poutine (B140) essentially boils down to cheesy French fries doused in gravy. Not that we’re complaining.
5pm. Quaint, 23 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1998.
The drinks: With the 12 beers on tap ranging from 5.6%-8.7% ABV, they may not appeal to craft beer newbies but for people serious about their hops it’s a dream come true. Try the full-bodied, malty De Molen Vuur & Vlam (B160/ half; B275/pint), or the Happy New Beer Black IPA (B130/half; B225/pint), a silky, bitter brew with a powerful aftertaste. For those intimidated by the tap selection, fear not—there’s a whole host of bottled lagers and pale ales, as well as some more exotic IPAs in the fridge. Don’t miss the signature cocktails, either. The Man’Fatt’Han (B320) is the pride and joy, while the Jack Daniel’s-based Lynchburg Lemonade (B280) will make you wish you were in a rocking chair on a porch somewhere in the Deep South. The music: Nostalgic, head-bobbing Americana anthems. A playlist of hits by The Beach Boys and Red Hot Chili Peppers is always going to be a crowdpleaser, if a tad predictable. The crowd: Beer-lovers and diners with a hearty appetite, as well as an interesting convergence of Fatty’s die-hards and Ekkamai elite. Why we’d go back: Good food and good people. Plus, anywhere that serves a Bloody Mary with a rasher of bacon and pickle gets our seal of approval. Keep an eye out for live music nights, tap takeovers and more. 92/7 Ekamai Soi 16, 02-391-8221. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight
Prolific wine critic James Suckling (a former editor of Wine Spectator magazine) brings his Great Wines of Italy event back to Bangkok this Dec 8 at the Grand Ballroom of the Grand Hyatt Erawan hotel. For B1,000, you will be tasting over 80 Italian brands and premium boutique wineries, handpicked by Suckling himself. The selection includes Brunellos, Barolos, Tuscans, Barbarescos, Amarones, Chianti Classicos and many more. There will also be a screening of Suckling’s documentary, Great Wines of Italy: Alto Adige’s Vineyards in the Sky, which explores the wineries and vineyards of Northeast Italy. Early bird tickets can be purchased here with a special price for people aged under 28 at B649. 4-8pm. Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Rachadamri Rd., 02-254-1234
ON NUT Your guide to Cheap Charlie’s new ‘hood Cheap Charlie’s has finally found a new home in On Nut’s nightlife hub, The Beacon, located on Sukhumvit Soi 50 opposite the Tesco Lotus parking lot. Check out these other awesome spots: DOG STEP
The only beer bar on On Nut to carry Thai home-brewed craft beer. Try the Soon-tree-ya IPA 8% (B200). 094- 695-4619. Open daily 5pm -midnight
Dog Step
BRO’S GRILL AND BEER
OYSTERS BISTRO BY AMEI
Bro’s is your spot if you want to pair that cold beer with, say, a bargain “wagyu” ribeye (B388). They also have buffet sets that come in three prices, beginning at B1,588.
Oysters the size of your palm fresh from Surat Thani. B450 gets you three oysters and a glass or either sauvignon blanc from New Zealand or Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile.
086-776-9865. Open Mon-Sat 5-10 pm
090 - 996 -5858. Open daily 4pm -midnight
ROLLING STONE
SENDAI RAMEN RESUTORAN
On Nut’s own wood-fired Italian pizza place—who would’ve thought? It’s hard to pass on the B420 Four Cheeses (mozzarella, parmesan, cheddar and blue cheese).
This is the ramen shop of your post-binge-drinking dreams. The owner is Japanese, so count on the authenticity of his giant Karamiso Chashu Ramen for B189.
088 950 4164. Open daily 4-11pm
089 - 075-5188. Open daily 11am -midnight
HAI SHABU
In the spirit of Japanese post-drinking spots, here’s a shabu place. All-you-can-eat (without a time limit) starts at B369. 098-553-6509. Open Mon-Fri 11:30 -2pm; Sat-Sun 11am-11pm
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bites
Ginza Sushi Ichi
Tempura Kanda
OMAKASE
Swankiest Sushi
Morimoto
These are the most expensive omakase dinners in Bangkok. By Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon Sushi Zo
Bangkok’s sushi scene of the past six months has been consumed by an omakase arms-race, with each new restaurant gunning to outdo the others in price and quality. In that spirit, we bring you the most expensive omakase courses in Bangkok.
Meruto Sushi The chef: Self-trained Thai chef Kirati Butdeevong, who honed and tested his sushi skills for years before opened this place himself without experience from any Japanese restaurants before. The space: An austere, light-wood interior emphasizes the sushi counter, which takes six diners per sitting. The courses: B9,900 for 18 courses. The selling point: The fresh oyster from Hiroshima, served with house-cured ponzu and grilled gindara on a bed of Japanese seaweed. G/F, Sathorn Gardens, 39 Sathorn Rd., 092-3697924. Open Tue-Sun 12pm-10pm. MRT Silom
Ichika Omakase The chef: Thai-Japanese Akira NEW! Kemavuthanon, formerly of Dusit Thani and Conrad. The space: Simple and elegant. Akira slices and dices on a 150-year-old cedar cutting board. The courses: B9,700 for 17 courses. The selling point: Its creativity, from steamed egg in foie gras and truffle soup, to fresh clams with Japanese lime and Himalayan salt.
the attached tempura restaurant. G/F, No.88 Mall, 88 Thonglor Soi 5, 02-712-7619. Open Thu-Tue 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm
Mizu by Sankyodai The chef: Thai chefs with work background at In the Mood for Love, Tensui and Kabuki, chef Charoensri Somsook has helmed Mizu since it first opened since 2015. The space: Hardwood and monochrome upholstery with a dozen seats and seven spots at the bar. The courses: B8,000 for 18-20 courses. T h e s e l l i n g p o i nt : At te n t i ve s e r v i ce, proud crafts and excellent produce. Everything from the beautiful crockery and traditional sushiya uniforms to the splendid fish knives seems to gently whisper, “We’re using only the best stuff, here.” 2/F, Charn Issara Tower, 942/43 Rama 4 Rd., 02-6326660. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm; 5-10pm. BTS Saladaeng
Sushi Ichizu
The Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-2617100. Open Tue-Fri 12-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm
NEW! The chef: Toda Riku is the former sous chef at Tokyo’s one-Michelin-starred Sushi Sugita. The space: Minimalist to a tee: slatted wood and a dining room of light tones with a counter that seats eight. The courses: B8,000 for 16 courses. The selling Point: Though only 26, Riku already boasts 12 years in the Edo-style sushi game, learning all about salt-and-vinegar curing, searing and smoking, and marinating to draw out the finest flavors of each fish.
Sushi Matsuo
Sukhumvit Soi 39, 065-738-9999. Open Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30pm
The chef: Tokyo-born Matsuo Hirokazu, previously of Sushi Kanda. The space: Tucked inside the already compact Tempura Kanda restaurant, Sushi Matsuo barely has space for a sushi counter and its eight seats. The courses: B8,800 for 22 courses. The selling point: Sake-poached abalone with a liver sauce, and fresh uni served in its shell with raw sweet shrimp. Also, samples from
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Sushi Zo The chef: Hokkaido-born Toshi Onishi, previously of the brand’s downtown LA branch. The space: A low-key facade, an economic use of indoor space and an upbeat vibe. The courses: B7,000 for 18-20 courses. The selling point: A style that’s lively and fun, venturing into more adventurous flavors like
Ichika Omakase
the olive oil-marinated striped horsemackerel topped with Sichuan pepper. G/F, Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8490. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-midnight
Morimoto The chef: Head sushi chef Tomoki Sasada, previously of Ginza Sushi Ichi. The space: The decor blends cultures with its stylish, wood-paneled booths, Scandinavian-influenced furnishings and wavy ceiling. The course: B8,000 for 15-17 courses. The selling point: The sushi is preceded by appetizers like tiny deep-fried sawagani crabs, put together with female snow crab meat, its eggs and vinegar jelly. 4/F, MahaNakon Cube, 96 Narathiwas Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-060-9099. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; SunWed 6-11pm; Thu-Sat 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi
Sushi Kanda The chef: Japanese chef Takahiro Hato, who was th winner of Olympic Sushi in Japan in 1990. The space: Down-to-earth with a black granite bar (seats 12), the perfect vantage from which to observe the knife skills and craftsmanship of this restaurant’s stern-faced team. The course: B7,300 for 18-20 courses. The selling point: Lucky diners will get a sushi tutorial from Takahiro himself, as well as extra rolls of the decadent uni (sea urchin) sushi, which is of such good quality that it earns rave reviews across the board. 2/F, No. 88 Mall, 88 Thonglor Soi 5, 02-712-6639. Open Mon, Tue, Thu 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm; Fri-Sun 5:3011pm
Tempura Kanda The chef: Appretice Thai chefs of the old head chef Jiro Fukuda, who just flew out to Hong Kong last year after working here since 2014, have now helmed the kitchen. The space: Attached to Sushi Kanda, the only difference is black granite bar comes with a few boiling pots up to fry up golden bites of perfection. The course: B7,300 for 18-20 courses.
Sushi Kappou Kitaohji
The selling point: Tempura Kanda’s chef fries up whatever is fresh in the market that day in an airy net of batter. You can expect to try flawless fried sea urchin with caviar, or a whole hair crab fried to the perfection. 1/F, No. 88 Mall, 88 Thonglor Soi 5, 095-720-0557. Open Thu-Sun 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm; Mon-Tue 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm
Ginza Sushi Ichi
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The chef: Founding chef Masakazu PICK! Ishibashi is a frequent visitor, while the petite team behind the counter regularly rotates with branches in Ginza,SIngapore and Jakarta to guarantee equal expertise. The space: Small yet inviting, the interior goes heavy on hinoki wood for a calming environment. The course: B7,000 for 15-17 courses. The selling point: Its affiliates in Singapore and Tokyo are both darlings of Michelin inspectors. LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 454 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-2500014. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 6-10pm. BTS Chidlom
Sushi Kappou Kitaohji
NEW!
The chef: Chef Shimuta Kunihiko has been with Kitaohji for over five years while chef Maeno Junji developed most of menu and helms the kitchen here. The space: Meticulous presentation and high-end ingredients. Hand over control to a formidable troop of Japanese chefs at a very beautiful counter. The courses: B8,000 for 18 courses. The selling point: The chefs’ mastery isn’t reserved for perfectly sculpted sushi, but extends to the humble steamed egg (its mellow flavor spiked with pickled plum), alive abalone shabu, fish tempura, and a bowl of clear soup that’s utterly comforting. G/F, 39 Boulevard, Soi Phrom Chit (Sukhumvit Soi 39), 02-160-0308. Open Tue-Sun 5-11pm
Note: These are the most expensive courses only. Most restaurants also offer shorter courses and lunch deals.
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Broken Eggs
All about tapas and Spanish goodness on Ekamai.
The buzz: After making a name at Phra Khanong’s W District, chef-owner Jacobo Astray (also of private-dinner-Gula fame) has claimed a space of his own on Ekkamai. The new room displays the full breadth of his traditional-to-progressive tapas prowess. The decor: The usual trappings of bare-bones industrial—polished concrete, woodgrain, naked Edison bulbs—feel true to the restaurant’s down-to-earth origins, as do the long bar and huge mural of a toque blanche-wearing elephant and a utensil-wielding octopus. Astray also has plans to turn the upstairs into a cooking studio. The food: Longtime devotees of Broken Eggs can celebrate the return of traditional bites that hark back to the chef’s Galician home. Try the grilled octopus, which comes with a silky potato puree and is dusted with paprika (B380), or the Iberico pork shoul-
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der with its addictive chimichurri sauce (B380). The flavorful gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp, B210) come in an ample portion with plenty of robust, crispy garlic. The house signature and namesake, huevos rotos, is, naturally, broken eggs cooked in olive oil and topped with cuts of salty Iberico ham (B220). As good as the classic tapas are, now’s not the time to cleave to the old. Our unconventional favorite is the creamy, locally made burrata with fresh berries and a drizzle of basil oil (B260). The restaurant also boasts a delicious seafood paella (B180), cooked on the weekends in a big pan by the front door. The drinks: Wine here starts at B220 for a glass of the fresh, datesweet Haceinda Lopez de Haro’s Blanco, or its mellow, liquorishy sibling, the Tempranillo. Ribera del Duero is also available by the
glass at B250. Buy a whole bottle for a 20-percent discount. Otherwise, quench your thirst on the Mediterranean-style gin and tonics (starting B200) or in-house sangria (B180). The bottled beer selection is dedicated to small Thai breweries, such as Mahanakorn’s pale ale (B180) and A-Go-Go’s IPA (B200). Why we'd come back: Broken Eggs manages to reinvent tapas while staying true to the cuisine's ethos—that is, punchy, shareable bites that go well with a strong drink and good company. Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon
112/7 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-047-7811. Open Tue-Sun 5-11:30pm
Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 10% discount on food only Today – 31 Mar 18
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Character Whisky & Cigar Bar
Shakarich
Caveman Base
NEW AND NOTED
Shak Attack A new, upscale sister brand to all-night izakaya favorite Shakariki 432 has opened on Thonglor. Named Shakarich (416/6-7 Thonglor Soi 14, 089-767-2780), the place sets itself apart from other Shakariki branches by focusing on premium, seasonal ingredients from Japan. That means Hokkaido oysters, salmon from Nagano and Kagoshima-breed wagyu, all served amid neat, traditional Japanese-inflected decor. Those premium ingredients come in dishes including the deep-fried oyster (B180), a glass of sea urchin and ikura (salmon roe) in Japanese soup (B380) and grilled salmon on tea-soaked rice (B220). There are even 10-course dinners of seasonal produce available at B3,000.
Holy Smokes Character Whisky & Cigar Bar (32/F, Compass SkyView Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-011-1133) maintains the
hallmarks of its sibling, Anantara Siam's Character lounge, while introducing a Latin slickness appropriate for its seat on the 32nd floor of Compass SkyView Hotel. The exclusive single malts on offer range from B300-B3,000 per glass, and B3,500-B100,000 per bottle. The walk-in humidor boasts over 100 premium cigars, at up to B1,850 a smoke. Get discounts by becoming a member: B165,000 for full benefits, or the more pocket-friendly B85,000 and B40,000.
Play Off Steak, craft beers, board games and video games combine at Caveman Base (Civic Horizon, Sukhumvit Soi 63 [Ekkamai], 082-441-8006). Challenge your friends to Scrabble while sipping a bacon vanilla milkshake (B170) and nibbling on beef nachos (B160). Treat the winner to a tender wagyu striploin (B990/400g) or just booze away the loss with an Epic Los Locos (B220) or a Rogue Dead Guy Ale (B250). Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon and Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
TABLE TALK
Sushi Kappou Kitaohji 39 Boulevard, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-160-0308. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-11pm Sushi Kappou’s omakase experience is a combination of sushi and assorted food—including dessert. Each menu is decorated like a work of art, which requires meticulous skill and the highest-quality materials, as the head chef’s skilled use of seasonal ingredients shows. True to the concept of seasonal omakase, all of this is prepared right in front of you. Exclusively for Citi credit card members. Get a complimentary specialized seasonal sushi from chef valued at THB 500++ when spending via Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Preferred and Citi Select (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip.) Today – 30 Apr ‘18
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Gift Guide 2017
BK Magazine’s Avenue Gift Guide shines a spotlight on the best new products for the holiday season, sure to please geeks, design freaks, exercise fanatics, fashionistas and foodies—from home decor to tech toys to men’s and women’s accessories to health and beauty. For bookings, please call 02-624-9696, 601, 613, 614, 615 or email advertising@asia-city.co.th
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El Tapeo HHHH Spanish. 159/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-0520656. Open Tue-Thu, Sun 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-1am. BB-BBB. Corkage B400
A shop-house done over with patterned tiles and tasteful Spanish accents, this tapas restaurant lays claim to one of Thonglor’s best bang-for-baht nights out. To stand out in a city now teeming with affordable, Spanish foodie-endorsed restaurants, El Tapeo talks up authenticity through a sister relationship with El Rinconcito de Juan, a decade-old restaurant in Madrid. But even without knowledge of that lineage, it’s easy to appreciate that this colorful, casual spot is onto a good thing. A well-stocked bar sits behind a wooden counter, which greets guests with displays of delectable pintxos (small bar snacks). Littered with colorful ceramics, decorative wine bottles and the odd cliched photograph, the three stories do an admirable job of transporting you to a Spanish taberna—something not even the views of Eight Thonglor mall can diminish. Daily happy hours (5-8pm) that get you 50-percent off one-liter pitchers of sangria (otherwise B550) set a boozy foundation for a menu
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Shinsen Fish Market HHHH
Japanese. 163/6 Sukhunvit Soi 39, 02-260 -6522. Open daily 11am-11pm. B-BBB. Corkage B500 F
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This vast warehouse on Sukhumvit Soi 39 takes its cues from Taipei’s uber-cool Addiction Aquatic Development—a fish supermarket where diners can order up the finest ocean delicacies to eat on -site. Here, though, some of the live seafood is a far cry from “fresh,” with tanks of sad geoducks and huge crabs in unclear water. It’s enough to put you off dinner as you wait around looking at it—which you will do, since no staff showed up to seat us on our last visit. It’s no surprise, then, that the glum mezzanine area is frequently empty. The service shortfalls don’t end there, with staff incapable of providing you with the right cutlery or condiments. Want a spoon for your soup? You’ll have to ask. Want wasabi, soy and pickled ginger for your sushi? Again, not unless you ask. There’s fun to be had walking around and looking at the images of
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mouthwatering dishes on polished menus, but with each different counter comes a completely different bill, which means you’ll spend as much time getting your wallet out as eating. In the fusion Shinsen Kobore Sushi (B390) you undoubtedly get the freshness of raw minced tuna, but it comes with dry, tasteless, rubbery, napkin-like crabmeat. Comfort dishes like the greasy garlic and tobiko (fish roe) spaghetti (B220) are also best forgotten thanks to the quantity of grease and big, mushy prawn that sits on top of it. They do traditional sushi, too—even omakase feasts at times, with a past partnership with the esteemed Ginza Kyubey from Tokyo—but who cares when the fundamental of any good sushi—the rice—is this soggy? Stroll a few hundred meters to mid-budget sushi places like Kaze Fresh, Sushi Hiro and Isao and you’ll find better sushi than this. Admittedly, the prices seem good overall and most of the live ingredients are decent enough quality—we just wish it didn’t have to suffer what the kitchens do to it. Live scallops, for example, are delicately plump, but grilled in butter and soy sauce (B150/piece) they just leave a rancid buttery note. We know that things at Shinsen Fish Market didn’t used to be this way. We know that, when it opened, Shinsen delivered on its tank-to-table promise of quality produce prepared with care. In the space of 18 months, a lot has changed.
Ratings
Price guide
PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
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of Spanish classics, from tostas (open sandwiches) and cold cuts to cazuelas (clay casseroles) and paella, most of which explode with the vitality of good produce. The tostas of pickled anchovies with tomato (B195) packs a zingy sharpness atop bread that’s crispy yet light and fluffy. The spinach and cheese croquetas (B150/5 pieces) are intensely savory morsels that burst forth with bechamel, while the gambas al ajillo (B150) sees bouncy prawns elevated by little crisp shards of garlic. With the delicious huevos rotos (“broken eggs,” B250), El Tapeo excels in simplicity: gooey fried egg, serrano ham and strings of garlic-sauteed fish surimi atop homemade fries so thin they resemble crisps. It’s a flavor-packed high the strangely subdued (and aioli-free) patatas bravas (B150) can’t quite measure up to. Nor can the arroz negro (B850 for 2-3 people), a seafood paella in all but name in which rice dyed black by squid ink sets the backdrop for hefty prawns and mussels. The creamy rice brimming with seafood notes conceals chewy chunks of squid, and while we’d argue the burnt base falls short of crunchy, caramelized socarrat perfection, an aioli helps keep the dish moist and adds a moreish garlic bite. The food’s complemented by a wine list that’s not only long but cheap, with the mostly Spanish bottles starting from B690 and by-the-glass at B150. Even if the food’s not quite as innovative or chef-driven as Broken Eggs or Arroz, El Tapeo makes an undeniably appealing option for dinner and drinks that won’t empty your wallet.
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Symbols
H Reservations recommended F Parking B500 E Dress requirements G Live music
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now TUE Rock Around Psychedelic songsters Pond, often relegated to the station of Tame Impala spinoff (admittedly, a worthy station to occupy), bring their new album The Weather to Bangkok. On Nov 21, the Australian four-piece will stake out their territory in the '70s-inspired psych-rock scene with a performance at Nakarin Space. See page 26.
SUN Local Tastes From Nov 19-24, your favorite bars across town will turn their attention to local craft spirits. As part of the new Drink Local festival, the likes of Bamboo Bar, Tropic City and The Locker Room will whip up signature cocktails that highlight everything from Chalong Bay Rum to Grandma Jinn. See page 27.
SAT Beat This French beatmaker Onra (known off-stage as name Arnaud Bernard) takes over the turntables at Future Factory for a one-night-only set on Nov 25. Tickets begin at B500, a bargain for night of this French hip-hop magician. See page 26.
FRI Party On, and On Beam, second home of Thonglorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s party-crazed, is taking over 72 Courtyard for two consecutive weekends of live performances, what theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re calling Beamfest. In the spirit of maximizing party-time, the organizers have also brought in an array of food and drink pop-ups. See page 26 for more reasons to attend.
SAT Green Light The seventh edition of the music-themed outdoor festival, Noise Market, has the theme Climate Change, and comes with a dose of eco-friendly moralizing. Fairgoers at the Nov 18-19, Museum Siam event can also look forward to the return of Bangkok Underground Cinema Shorts. See page 27.
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now NIGHTLIFE
MUSIC
ATATA
Adiero
Onra
SUNJU HARGUN PRES. 1X5
BEAMFEST 2017
EXPOSED - ELEKTRO DELIKATESSEN
A night of electronic music with Bangkok-based DJs DOTT, Kova O’ Sarin, Bass Youth, Junesis and Elaheh. Nov 18, 9.30pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B350 after midnight.
Music, food and art light up the nightclub complex for two consecutive weekends. Headliners include Shream, Tiga and Flight Facilities. Tickets in advance at bit.ly/2zUMO5N. Nov 17-19, 24-26, 4pm. Beam, 1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. B1,900-2,900.
A night of techno-house music with DJs Ikono, Richie, Zidov Akuma and Aneesh Medina. Nov 24, 10pm. Club 15, 43 Sukhumvit Soi 15, 083-0940650. Free.
MENDY INDIGO PRESENTS NOWHERE TO NOW HERE FEAT. MYLE
Two leading female DJs fuse dark beats and organic sounds. Nov 17, 10pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 061-717-4365. B250. KITSUNE ASIA TOUR
The hit French recording label brings its tour of indie-electro bangers to Thonglor's hottest nightclub. For more information, visit bit.ly/2zlS4mN. Nov 17, 9pm. Beam, 1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-3927750. B1,900-2,900. TAY JAMES
Justin Bieber's official DJ comes to showcase his skills at Sukhumvit Soi 11's giant club. Nov 17, 10pm. Insanity Nightclub, 32/2 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-804-9542. B300-400 includes 1 Drink. BTS Nana. LE PICNIC ELECTRONIC
Sky on 20 celebrates its first birthday with a day-to-night party featuring food, drinks and DJs. Nov 18, 2pm. Sky on 20, 26/F, Novotel Bangkok Hotel, 19/9 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02009-4999. B300 includes 1 drink.
ONRA LIVE SET
The French beatmaker takes over the DJ table to fill the night with hip hop and other eclectic sounds. Nov 25, 8pm. Future Factory Bangkok 1077/48 Pahol Yothin Rd.,098-2539356. B500. BTS Ari. J ALEXANDER & JU-C
Two DJs from the UK and Malaysia team up to spin retro electronic music. Tickets TBA. Nov 25, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. GET A ROOM FEAT. CHRISSY (NITE OWL DINER)
The Chicago DJ and label owner spins disco and ghetto house. Ticket prices TBA. Nov 24, 10pm-3am. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117.
MUSTACHE TAKEOVER
A night of underground techno-house from DJs Dan Buri, Kuroten, Sabura, Sam Linden, Spencer & Walt, and DOTT & Junesis. Nov 22, 9pm. Sing Sing Theater, Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 063-225-1331. B200 includes 1 drink. INTO THE CABIN
Turkey-hailing producer Hexer presents '80s-indebted synth house music with eastern touches. Nov 17, 8pm. Black Cabin Bar, Wild & Co., 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Rama 4 Rd., 061-5156989. Free.
Ornaree
Concerts ATATA LIVE IN BANGKOK 2017
The Tokyo rock band make their Bangkok debut with support from rising local indie acts Abuse The Youth, Hariguem Zaboy and Wednesday. Nov 24, 8pm. Good Space, Paholyothin Soi 18/1. B300. POND LIVE IN BANGKOK
A night of laughter with American comedian and radio personality Walter Hong. Nov 24, 8.30pm. Witch’s Sport Tavern, Soi Ruam Rudee, 02650-8986. B500 includes 1 drink.
The Australian psychedelic-rock band known for mixing the heavy riffage and camp touches of '70s classic rock with strangely introspective lyrics perform tracks from their seven albums supported by local experimental producer Koichi Shimizu. Nov 21. Nakarin Space, 399/1 Srinakarin Rd. B2,000.
Gigs
COMEDY SHOW WITH WALTER HONG
DOPE AS FUNK 3 YEAR ANNIVERSARY
GIANT SWING
DJs Arin, Aopsher, Tommy Nori, Rory Breaker-Morant and Tech 12 take over the decks playing old-school hip hop, funk and reggae. Nov 18, 10pm. Vanilla Sky Rooftop Bar. B300.
Japanese DJs Hidemasa Mitsui and NKchan spin an eclectic batch of techno-house music. Tickets TBA.Nov 18, 10pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 061-717-4365.
The iconic Thai grunge singer from the '90s returns to the stage to perform her hits. Nov 17, 7pm. Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd. Free.
TOGETHER | HOUSE JAM X BLAST!
SICKO
PANDA RECORDS NIGHT
Adiero and Nukier get the party going with their techno-house music. Nov 18, 10pm. Club 15, 43 Sukhumvit Soi 15, 083-094-0650. Free.
A night of experimental electronic music from G9bh’ and Ahivar. Tickets TBA. Nov 26, 10pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 061717-4365.
ORNAREE
The long-running record label offers up an indie-punk vibe with sets by Third Person, The Proper Clan, And the Early And Mid Ago, Hariguem Zaboy and Stylish Nonsense. Tickets
Plague Pits
TBA. Nov 25, 8-11pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 061717-4365. ROCK THIS WAY BKK: VOL. 2
The Reapers and Plague Pits team up with DJs Rory Breaker-Morant and Aopsher to play rock music from the '60s up til now. Nov 25, 10pm-2am. Check In 99, 97 Sukhumvit Rd. 081735-7617. B300 includes 1 drink. BIG BACKYARD AT SOULBAR
Soulful re-works of classics from Al Green, The Temptations, Prince and more from the local four-piece. Nov 22, 9pm. Soulbar, 945 Charoen Krung Rd., 093-220-0441. Free. DOOD X LOYSHY *COUNTER CULTURE TRIP!
Stylish Nonsense and Polycat feat. Stamp headline a night devoted to Japanese pop-rock sounds. Tickets TBA. Nov 20, 6pm. Loyshy, 744/2 Soi Phayanak. BTS Ratchathewi. SPACE ON RADIO
Instrumental reggae and experimental music local artists H1F4, Roots Tone and The Don. Nov 18. 8pm. Space Oddity, Ladprao Wanghin Soi 93, 097-243-1663. B100.
THEATER & DANCE HERTHA BERLIN
SPOONFACE STEINBERG
UNFOLDING KAFKA
Kwin Bhichitkul presents a “football cheering” performance inspired by diarrhea and the loss of a loved one. For tickets, visit bit.ly/2hfXy7t. Nov 1819. 1pm, 3.30pm. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd. B300.
Peel the Limelight and Spark Drama present Lee Hall's play about an 8-yearold autistic girl nicknamed Spoonface who is dying of cancer. Performed in English with Thai subtitles. Through Nov 19, 7:30pm. Jasmine City Building, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-5888. B600.
Exploring the works of German surrealist writer Franz Kafka, this art festival presents contemporary art pieces ranging from physical movement theater to sculpture and visual art to address topics including animalism, gender, identity and bodies. For tickets and schedule details visit www.unfoldingkafkafestival.com. Prices vary for individual shows. Through Nov 22, 1pm. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. B1,650 for the festival pass. www.fb.com/ unfoldingkafkafestival. MRT Lumphini.
HARI RAYA: A PLAY-READING
In this play, an estranged mother and son travel to Malaysia to visit their last surviving relatives. For tickets visit bit. ly/readinghariraya. Nov 18, 1.30pm, 3pm. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd. B250. Herta Berlin
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SAWAN ARCADE
A contemporary performance directed by Ornanong from B-Floor Theater. In Thai language with English subtitles. Through Nov 20, 8pm. Democrazy Theatre Studio, 1034/29-30 Soi Saphankhu, Rama 4 Rd., 089-126-7112, 081-441-5718. B550. MRT Lumphini.
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now FILM Opening (Nov 16)
ART
Sake
Five Five Five Plus
ISLANDSCAPE
FIVE FIVE FIVE PLUS
MOKUTAN
Southern Thai artist Pramote Saengpolsit channels his fascination with the atmosphere on islands into a new series of work. Nov 17-Dec 31, 6pm. Serindia Gallery, Room 3101, 3201, OP Garden, 4-6 Charoen Krung Soi 36, 02-238-6410. Free.
Australian artist Aaron Grech presents his artful doodles created during his residency. Nov 17-23, 7pm. Speedy Grandma, 672/5052 Charoen Krung Soi 28, 089-5083859. Free.
Thaweesak Srithongdee’s black and white paintings of youths painting. Nov 23-Jan 14, 6pm. 2/F, Broccoli Revolution, 899 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5001. Free.
PORTRAIT OF THAI-CHINESE SUM DANG
Anyone can submit their work to be part of this crowdsourced photography exhibition, which presents images uploaded to Instagram with the hashtag #sparkyourselves. Nov 18, 6pm. House of Lucie, 1 Ekkamai Soi 8, 095-478-9987. Free.
Korean-born photographer Park Dong Hyuk’s black and white documentary photographs reflect the intercultural relationships of Thai and Chinese people in Bangkok’s Chinatown. Nov 17-23, 5pm. Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd. Free.
KODOMO TSUKAI (JAPAN)
JUSTICE LEAGUE (USA)
Horror. Three days after a number of missing children return to their town, adults begin to die mysteriously. A local journalist sets out to unravel the cause of the strange deaths.
Fantasy. Batman (Ben Affleck) joins forces with Wonder Woman (Gal Gadot) to recruit a superhero team that includes Aquaman (Jason Momoa), the Flash (Ezra Miller) and Cyborg (Ray Fisher) in a mission to save the world.
Upcoming (Nov 23)
SAKE: INSIDE JAPAN'S ARTISANAL BREWERIES
A selection of intimate, large-format photographs from Jason Lang's critically-acclaimed book that gives insight into Japan’s sake brewers. Nov 17, 6pm. Jua, 672/49 Charoen Krung Soi 28. Free.
SALES & FAIRS
AJIN: DEMI-HUMAN (JAPAN)
KIMI NO SUIZO WO TABETAI (JAPAN)
Fantasy/Action. A high school boy goes on the run after discovering he’s a demi-human Ajiin with supernatural abilities.
Romance/Drama. 12 years after losing his teenage crush, a man returns to his high school as a teacher and discovers the diary of his lost lover.
BANGKOK FARMERS’ MARKET
Shop organic products and handcrafts under the shelter of Gateway Ekamai mall. Nov 25-26, 11am-6pm. Gateway Ekamai, 982/22 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2888. BTS Ekamai
Bangkok Farmers' Market
IRON CHEF THAILAND FOOD FEST
TGIF MARKET
The hit TV cooking competition presents a food festival dedicated to premium produce. Through Nov 19, 10am. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455.
This recurring market promises trendy clothes and accessories from local brands and shops. Nov 17-19, 12-10pm. CentralWorld, 4, 4/1-4/2, 4/4, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111.
NOISE MARKET 7 CLIMATE CHANGE
TEEN SPIRIT'S ARTS AND DESIGN MARKET
This food-and-drink weekend festival encourages visitors to be mindful about the amount of waste they produce. Nov 18-19, 2pm. Museum Siam, Phra Nang Klao Rd., 02-225-2777.
Shop fashion and hand-made goods from Bangkok-based designers. Nov 24. G/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000.
NEILSON HAYS LIBRARY’S NOVEMBER BOOK SALE
MURDER ON THE ORIENT EXPRESS (UK)
HAPPY DEATH DAY (USA)
The popular book sale returns with a big selection and prices starting at just B20. Nov 25. Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd., 02-2331731.
Crime. Based on Agatha Christie’s famous mystery novel, the film follows a detective’s attempt to unravel a murder on the train carrying 13 dubious characters.
Horror/Thriller. A college girl tries to figure out who killed her in order to break the loop of her final day.
5TH INTERCULTURAL BAZAAR
Support the refugee community by partaking in handicraft and art workshops, along with food and traditional beats from Mogadishu, Islamabad, Columbo, Saigon, Baghdad and Kabul. Nov 25. 5-11pm. Brownstone, 13965 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 085-4837675. Free
NIGHTLIFE Drink Local
Bunker
FESTIVALS BEYOND REALITY FEST 2017
This art and film festival dedicated to virtual reality offers a variety of free-entry exhibitions, talks and screenings of sci-fi classics like Fantastic Planet (1973) and Upside Down (2012). Film tickets are B120 or B60 for members. Nov 16-18, 3-9pm. Alliance Francaise de Bangkok, 179 Witthayu Rd., 02-670-4200 THAI CRAFT TAKEOVER
Thai Craft Takeover
Taste over 10 Thai craft beer brands, including Nectar Coffee Stout, Sandport Broken Sword, YodBeer Plearn IPA and Silom Beer IPA with free flights and special deals throughout. Nov 17-18, 5pm. I Hate Pigeons,
34/2 Sathorn Soi 1 (Sribumphen), 097-234-8067. THAILAND BREW FEST II: THE REUNION EPISODE
A chance to try over 80 beers on tap from 20 distributors, big and small, including BrewDog, Ballast Point, Hitachino, Coedo, Little Creatures, Heretic, Solaris, Postmark, De Molen, Duchesse De Bourgogne, Deschutes, Triple Pearl, Yaksa, Stonehead, Chiang Mai, Devanom and Happy New Beer. There will also be American food on offer. Grab tickets at bit.ly/2AvODY0. Nov 24-25, Quaint, 23 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1998. B699-999.
The Locker Room
Rabbit Hole
During the week of Nov 19-24, many of Bangkok's top bars will join forces in a special-cocktail-menu celebration of local spirits. Drink Local wants to boost appreciation of Thailand's burgeoning array of craft spirits by serving them up in creative drinks. On the special menus at Bamboo Bar, The Locker Room, Rabbit Hole, Bunker and more, you’ll find new signature drinks highlighting Iron Balls Gin, Chalong Bay Rum, Grandma Jinn, Malai Thai Spirits, Issan Rum, Kristal and Three Monkeys Rum. There will also be opportunities to try your hand at bartending, with events like a Chalong Bay masterclass at Crying Thaiger on Nov 20 or a Three Monkeys showcase at Tep Bar on Nov 19. It all ends with a closing party at The Commons on Nov 25 where each bar will have a booth serving their signature local-spirit cocktail. All events are free of charge. For the full timetable, see Drinklocalth.com.
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