it's free! Wasted Meet the entrepreneur combating food waste Planting Seeds Bangkok's vegan revolution ploughs forward Wild West Why you should move to Talad Phlu Knead-to-know Who delivers Bangkok's best pizza?
NO. 789 SEPTEMBER 11, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com
Do you Movin' onhear up the people sing?
Gen Z Street food Meet the young restaurateurs keeping Bangkok street-food relevant
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020
Who's in charge?
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Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon
upfront
Managing Editor Craig Sauers Deputy Editor Angela Symons Audience Development Specialist Nontaya Kumyat Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Veerabhatr Sriyananda Junior Writer Supanan Anansuviroj Contributor Megan Leon
Meet the founder of a company that’s fighting food waste and saving the planet
Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Chief Commercial Officer Jane Bay Product Marketing Manager Madeleine Anantasuk Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara
04 cover
Bangkok’s Gen Z and Millennials are shaking up street food
SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associate Palita Nueangnit Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg
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CEOs express deep concern over struggling profits As the pandemic upends the lives of tens of millions of working-class people across Thailand, several CEOs say they are “right there with them,” as the phenomenal profits of years’ past have suddenly stagnated. To better understand how Thailand’s top business professionals are dealing with the crisis, we interviewed CEOs from a wide range of companies, from local SMEs to large multinational corporations. Here’s what they had to say. “Where’s our taxpayer-funded stimulus?” “We’ve tried everything to help our employees, but there’s just nothing we can do,” said the chief executive of a major alcohol distributing company as he sipped a piña colada on the veranda of his vacation home in Phuket.
Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Kanicha Nualkhair
The executive, who asked not to be named for fear that his peers would view him as a lesser man, admitted that company-wide layoffs and pay cuts of up to 50 percent for all non-executive employees had failed to keep profits at an “acceptable level.”
08 shopping
“Until those sweet, sweet profits get back to where we want them to be, I don’t see how we can pay staff salaries,” he said, slicing a medium-rare Miyazaki A5 ribeye and dabbing the sweat from his brow with a Louis Vuitton silk handkerchief. “The government has offered us just no financial support.”
Maison Kitsune has arrived
“We have to save the profits”
Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
Where to find us!
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Plantiful
Pizza
“As an owner, I have many responsibilities. I have a responsibility to my investors to turn an insane profit, and I have a responsibility to myself to turn an insane profit,” said Peter Na Krungthep, the head of an electronics conglomerate that saw its annual revenues drop from B200 billion to B190 billion this year.
The Asia City Media Group
When asked about other responsibilities—to employees, the environment, clients, local stakeholders—he replied, “I’m not sure I understand your question,” as he rubbed the crocodile skin band of his custom-made Cartier watch.
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“It’s a tough decision: people or money”
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2020 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
“When this thing kicked off, we realized pretty quickly that in order to continue siphoning money into offshore accounts, we’d most likely have to sell, and fast,” said the chief executive of a medium-sized advertising house.
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“So, as the boss, I was sitting in my office, and I had to choose between people or money. And I chose money,” he declared, noting that the company had between 50 and 60 employees, but he “couldn’t tell you the exact number.” “It’s tough, but I’ll get back on my feet,” he said. “I’ll be onto my next rank, soulless profiteering opportunity in no time.”
upfront
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020
03
HOT OR NOT
JUSTICE
Meet the entrepreneur tackling food waste head on INTERVIEW
What sparked the idea for Yindii?
French entrepreneur Louis-Alban Batard-Dupre is the co-founder of food rescue service Yindii, which allows shops and restaurants to reduce their food waste by offering their unsold food at a discount. We spoke to him about the environmental impact of food waste and how we can tackle the issue head on.
When I came to Thailand...I started volunteering for [food waste rescue charity] SOS. They provide 2.5 million meals [to people in need annually]. Most of the people that give food are huge companies; [SOS] doesn’t pay for the food—[the companies] save money because destruction has a cost—but nobody pays them…so I tried to help find new ways of funding and cool ways of marketing to be more sustainable. They have a big impact on feeding people...but they could not go to a pastry shop that has five pieces of cake at the end of the day, and they were starting to refuse stores because it’s too little quantity or it’s not on their route. What has the reaction to Yindii been like so far? Everyone feels like they have something to win, whether it’s a new client and covering the cost, or eating delicious food at cheap prices. What obstacles have you faced? There is a big challenge about how Thai people view food waste as something dirty, or that having food left over suggests you are not a successful company; we need to change that mentality and say nobody is zero waste, it doesn’t exist. What impact does food waste have? It has three big impacts: one is human—the UN figures are very clear: if we could grab 25 percent of that surplus food, we could feed all of the hungry people around the world. The second is economic: if you throw food away, it means you’re not selling it. [The third is] environmental. Globally, around one-third of food ends up in the trash. When you throw something out, you throw all of the resources that have been used to create and transport those products... The
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Food and Agricultural Organisation measured that approximately eight percent of the CO2 produced by humans every year comes from food waste. Airlines account for [just over] two percent, so food waste is [almost] four times that. In Bangkok, one study announced that only two percent [of food waste] is properly recycled, the rest is thrown to landfills or in the river… [where it] decomposes and produces methane, it is a disaster. Methane is 25-to-30 percent more impactful on global warming than CO2. How can we tackle this problem? Finishing your plate or asking for takeaway at a restaurant is [easy to do], so I truly believe that food waste is something that can be tackled. We’re not here to shame people about waste. We’re just making it easy to do the first step towards more sustainability...We need to raise awareness so people start reducing their consumption, then it will move from the bottom up. There’s a [local] brand that I like called Saxo-Siam that gets food waste and turns it into fertilizer [and insect protein for feedstock]—this is what food should be, a natural cycle…it’s zero landfill, zero emission, you feed animals, and you can feed those insects to [livestock]. How impactful can food rescue be? For every three kilos of food that you rescue, an estimated 4.5 kilos of CO2 is rescued. What are your plans for the future of Yindii? We [plan to add] a donation option for SOS with our orders. We also want our own fleet of electric scooters because we want to be zero emission. We’re building an app, too. Visit www.yindii.co to find out more. Angela Symons
Stay glued to the edge of your seat: the Red Bull Boss scandal ain’t over yet. After charges were controversially dropped in July, the PM has now accepted a proposal looking into the alleged mishandling of the hit-and-run case. We won’t hold our collective breath, but there’s a glimmer of hope that justice might yet be served.
SEALIFE SELFIES Next time you go diving, leave that selfie stick on dry land. Two long-stay foreigners gained the ire of Thailand’s environment minister after a video depicting them disturbing and taking photos with marine creatures went viral earlier this month. The men were subsequently detained by police on Koh Phangan. No more spiritual rebirthing sessions for these guys.
GOING FOR GOLD Trial runs of the BTS Gold Line monorail kicked off late last month, with driverless trains set to make life on the Thonburi side of the river more accessible—especially for those seeking a direct drop-off at the behemoth that is IconSiam, the Icon of Eternal Prosperity. The service will be free to use through Oct 29.
WAITING FOR GREEN Shutdowns, deaths, economic turmoil—as if Covid hadn’t caused enough disruption. According to public health minister Anutin Charvirakul, you can add the commercial growth of cannabis to the list, too. However, despite yet another delay, Anutin has promised that his plans to lift restrictions on marajuana are still in the works.
Show us what you’ve got! Tag us @bkmagazine #bkmagazine.
cover | try z-food
Next Gen Street Food Stars The street food “ban” announced three years ago was met with a mixture of disbelief and alarm. While the fate of Bangkok’s street vendors remains uncertain, the city has welcomed a new wave of street food restaurants run by young up-and-comers, offering creative dishes with authentic flavors harking back to treasured family recipes. We talk to four of them to hear their stories and views on the future of Thailand’s street food.
By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Photos by Poonsawat Suttama
Jong Dim Sum Run by Jetpruek “Jong” Lapnarongchai, 28, this modern, two-story kopitiam-style shophouse near Saphan Kwai junction serves authentic Betong dim sum. In less than two years, Jong Dim Sum has become one of the neighborhood’s most popular breakfast joints, where early birds can get their fill of juicy prawn dumplings or marinated pork congee alongside freshly brewed oliang coffee. The fist-sized charcoal barbecue pork buns are also not to be missed.
How long did you spend to perfect your recipes? The food here is based on Cantonese, southern-Thai style recipes from Betong, passed down in my family from my grandmother. While we kept all the authentic tastes for our dishes, we did make some adjustments to the menu.
What feedback have you received from old and young customers about your food? We found that some of the dishes we serve can be difficult for our young customers, like bak kut teh (B120; herbal pork-ribs soup). When we first opened, we used a really rich broth, which many old customers enjoyed, but not so much with the young crowd—they said it was way too strong. We had to adjust the taste of that dish bit by bit to cater to both the young and old. Also, initially, our customers were really confused about our charcoal barbecue pork buns. We got so many questions from both young and old customers as to why the bun is black and why the filling is grilled pork instead of red pork. I had to do a lot of explaining, but now everyone gets it, and it has become one of our best-selling items on the menu.
Why did you choose to open this dim sum restaurant? My family has been running a dim sum restaurant in Hat Yai for around 20 years, so I knew what it was like to be in this business very early on. When I graduated from university, I worked at the restaurant for a while, and after gaining some experience, I felt like I wanted to open my own business. My parents gave me the green light, so I came to Bangkok to look for locations.
What were your parents’ initial reaction? At first, they didn’t approve. I had to prove myself to them to show that I’m taking this seriously and that I’m ready to run my own restaurant. Many people may think that I have it easy since I have pretty much everything laid out for me, but I did have to sacrifice some things, too.
What obstacles have you faced? Since I’m from out of town, opening up a restaurant in an unfamiliar place, I had to try extra hard to explain to people what my food represents. It’s like what I just told you about the charcoal barbecue pork buns—people were quite skeptical at first, because they weren’t familiar with this item of food. Whereas if I had sold the typical steamed red pork bun, I wouldn’t have had
any problems because Thai people already know what it is. So I’d say the customers’ perception towards my restaurant was a bit ambiguous at first, but now it has improved.
What are your thoughts on young people opening modern street food establishments? I think it’s a positive thing—it helps create new dishes and diversity that will make our street food culture branch out even more. Also, in my opinion, street food nowadays is no longer limited to location. It’s more than that—it’s a culture, a way of eating that doesn’t have to be on the streets. It can be anywhere now: street food can be in a shophouse, a mall, or even in fine dining restaurants, where “street food” dishes are beautifully presented. All of this is the result of the new generation, developing new creations from what already existed.
What are your goals or plans for the future? I’m planning to open another branch—nothing big, but the new place will focus on salapao (steamed buns) and kanom jeeb (Chinese dumplings). 524/4 Phahonyothin Rd., 089-048-6908. Open daily 7am-8pm. BTS Saphan Kwai
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2020
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Wuanood What started as a humble but wildly popular nuea krob noodle shop behind Thai Airways’ head office four decades ago is now Wuanood, a stylish and sassy beef noodle restaurant. With a love for their grandparents’ authentic beef noodle soup, sisters Smittada “Ploy” Hongsakul, 35, and Narissara “Prae” Hongsakul, 33, have expanded old family recipes to include some next-level premium beef. Think noodles with Thai-French top blade beef dressed with pork crackling. If that doesn’t satisfy your carnivorous cravings, we don’t know what will.
Why did you venture into this business? Prae: Cooking became my passion when I was studying for my master’s in England. It gave me a way to de-stress from my studies and cooking for my friends sparked a lot of joy in me. When I came back to Bangkok, I had a business opportunity, so I began brainstorming what kind of food I wanted to make. I wanted it to be comforting, uncomplicated, and something that you would want to eat again and again. Then I thought of the one dish that our family always makes, the dish that brings us all together, which is beef noodles. Ploy: We’re a big family. Growing up, we would always have these fond memories of everyone getting together to eat the beef noodles that our grandmother cooked. It was like a big event. Actually, this noodle recipe belongs to our grandmother’s brother and his wife, who have both run a crispy beef noodle joint behind Thai Airways’ head office for many decades now. When we told them that we were planning to open our own restaurant, they brought us into their shop and taught us how to cook the beef noodles based on their recipe.
Have you changed anything in the recipe to cater to current tastes? Ploy: We haven’t changed anything in the soup recipe—the taste is still based on what our relatives created 40 years ago. But we did add to the original recipe in terms of meat selections like Australian striploin and wagyu. We also created a new signature dish called khao gao lao haeng, which is similar to kurobuta don, but ours is more Thai-style, using jasmine rice, topped with pork crackling and served with our homemade soup. Prae: When it comes to flavors, we want our dishes to be as authentic as possible. But since we have such a diverse group of customers, from teenagers and elders to big families, we do sometimes customize the flavors for them.
How did your parents or friends feel when you decided to work in this field? Ploy: Around five or six years ago, it was kind of uncommon for people our age to quit their full-time jobs and start their own business. We did get comments like, “why do you do this when you have a college degree from abroad?” But luckily for us, our parents have been very supportive of our decision, so we didn’t take those comments to heart. Prae: The support we got from our family gave us the boost, plus we were confident in the food and recipes we have. We’re proud of launching Wuanood. It has become the place for our family gatherings.
What obstacles have you faced? Prae: Before we launched Wuanood, we were both in full-time jobs, which meant we had little experience running a restaurant. We had to learn how to manage everything from scratch. But luckily, many people around us are also in the restaurant business, so we got lots of useful advice from them. Listening to talks from successful restaurant owners also helped.
What are your goals for the future? Ploy: We definitely want to expand. Before Covid, many of my international friends asked us if we wanted to open Wuanood in their countries. I think this is a good business opportunity, because not many foreigners are familiar with Thai beef noodles. As for Thailand, right now we only have two locations. We still want to manage everything ourselves, so we’re not going to franchise our business yet. But we’re planning to launch a sister brand of Wuanood soon, which will offer southern khao gaeng dishes.
How do you feel about the state of street food today? Ploy: Thailand’s street food is world-renowned. Street vendors have become an integral part of our local culture. That’s why I want to see the young generations elevate the standard of street food and come up with new ways to make it more accessible to a wider audience, while at the same time focus on keeping the authenticity of the original flavors. Many modern street food restaurants today have also brought elements of the old charms we’re accustomed to into their own spaces. When you combine everything together, street food becomes more relevant. I want to see street food be a daily part of our eating culture, not something you look back on.
Any words of advice for aspiring young restaurant owners? Ploy: Don’t forget that the food should be at the heart of your restaurant. It is crucial nowadays for the space and vibe to be stylish and trendy, but at the end of the day, it’s the food that will bring back customers. Prae: That is the challenge of running a restaurant. There needs to be an authenticity to the food you make, especially in the flavors, that will make your customers want to come back again and again. Sure, it’s important for your establishment to be attractive and photogenic, but you need to look at everything in the long term. Research a lot, study the trends and markets, and think carefully about how much risk you can handle. 1/F, Empire Tower, South Sathorn Rd., 02-286-1123. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm; Sat 11am4pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
cover | try z-food
Lim Lao Ngow The Original For 80 years, this family-run noodle institution has been serving Bangkokians fish balls and specially crafted egg noodles, known for their flat form and slightly crunchy, chewy texture. Lim Lao Ngow has earned a spot in the Michelin Guide three years in a row. Carrying on the family’s legacy is third-generation owner Paruay “Benz” Chaiyo, 27, who recently opened Lim Lao Ngow The Original in the hopes of bringing his grandfather’s flavors to younger generations.
How did it all start for you? Lim Lao Ngow is a family business, which I have been involved with since middle school. Did I like it back then? I was still a kid, so not really. But as I grew older, I started to feel that running a restaurant was the right thing for me. I can be myself and it makes me happy. And now I work here full-time.
Why did you choose to eschew a traditional career? Let’s be honest: a job in street food is kind of looked down upon in Thai society. Yes, most of the comments I got are along the lines of, “Why aren’t you in a [real] job?” or “Did you have a job before this?” My reply is always that I never had a permanent job. What matters most to me is that what I’m doing now makes me happy. I guess it’s like working freelance.
How did your parents feel when you decided to do this? They supported me, but at first they did ask if I really wanted to do it. Running a restaurant is tough, and they’ve been through it all before. No parents would want their children to go through hard times, but I told them that this is what I wanted to do.
Is this the first branch of Lim Lao Ngow that’s under your management? The first branch I managed was actually at Saphan Lueng, where I started working when I was in university. Then after that I worked at the branch in Vibhavadi Hospital’s food court. I also dabbled in some catering events before I opened Lim Lao Ngow The Original.
What’s the concept? I wanted the customers to come in here and feel like they’re eating our fish ball noodles in Yaowarat, where our original branch is located. The restaurant is set up in a modern Chinese style with the use of red and green colors to represent Chinatown.
Have you changed the recipes at all? No, all the dishes here are based on our original recipe. We didn’t change anything.
What obstacles have you faced? I don’t think I ever had any big problems running the restaurant. So far, I’ve gotten a lot of great feedback, better than what I ever expected!
What are your goals for the future? My number one goal is to be able to open 10 branches of Lim Lao Ngow as my father had hoped. He wanted to be able to reach that number since I was little, but since he was working in this business for many years, he was burned out before he could make it happen. The branches don’t need to be super successful or anything, but if they can all support themselves in terms of income, I’m happy.
Any words of advice for aspiring young restaurant owners? Think really carefully before you go all in. If you’re absolutely sure that this is what you want to do and it’s your passion, first study and research, and then just go for it. But what’s most important is you need to have passion. If you don’t love what you do, then you won’t be able to do it for long.
What are your thoughts on young people opening modern street food establishments? Many famous street food establishments we see today are still up and running because they have their own kids or grandkids to take over the business. It’s all about the young generations, really. Personally, I think it’s kind of rare for someone to not want to help out their family business. Take mine, for example. It has been running for 80 years now. It would be a shame to let it end here. If it still has the potential to breathe life into it, then why wouldn’t you do it?
Do you think it will help preserve Thailand’s street food culture? I don’t think street vendors or traditional street food stalls will disappear completely, because street food will always be a part of our culture and way of life. But it may be modified with the times by younger generations to become more relevant. Would it have the same value compared to those original establishments? Probably not. The Hub Phahol-Ari, Phahonyothin Rd. (between Phahonyothin Soi 14 and 16), 090-8916304. Open daily 11am-7pm
food & drink
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2020
07
ADVERTORIAL
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1/F, CRC Tower, All Seasons Place, 87/2 Wireless Rd. 02-038-2184. Open daily 10:30am-9pm
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Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen Dark wood and starched tablecloths project an upscale Italian moodiness, while cured meats and cheeses from Lenzi’s own farm in Tuscany star alongside creative pasta dishes and wood-fired meats. Ruamrudee Soi 2, Wireless Rd. 02-001-0116. Open daily 11:45am-2pm, 5:30pm-10:45pm
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hit list | shopping
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2020
08
Cult Japanese fashion brand Maison Kitsune arrives in Bangkok FASHION
The wait is finally over, fashion fans: the cult Paris-meets-Tokyo brand Maison Kitsune just opened its first branch in Bangkok, including its much-loved coffee shop annex, Cafe Kitsune. Located on the ground floor of The EmQuartier, the minimal-chic retail space is dominated by sophisticated natural hues and touches of Thai-modern detailing: think bamboo seats and bagasse panels. Here, you’ll be greeted by the brand’s seasonal collections adorned with its iconic fox logo (B3,500 for a t-shirt; B6,900 for a sweatshirt; B8,900 for a hoodie), alongside an array of other stylish accessories like tote bags (B2,500) and caps (B3,950). After your shopping session, head over to the cafe section for some thirst-quenching drinks. Top picks include Uji Fizz (B160), a mix of sparkling matcha, yuzu and white peach; the Fox Latte (B170), iced milk coffee served with coffee syrup and cocoa nibs; and La Fleur (B160), another refreshing drink that consists of elderflower, vanilla and fresh yuzu juice. There are also a handful of coffee drinks (B130 for a hot americano), as well as light bites like lemon cake (B160) and cute fox-shaped cookies (B80). G/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm
[SLEEPING BEAUTY]
The best facials in Bangkok to get your glow on
Natural Detoxifying Facial at Calm Spa B2,000 for 75 minutes 13 Ari Soi 4 (North), 09-6941-8645. Open daily 11am-10pm
ArunaYouth Skin Lifting Facial at Panpuri Wellness B3,500 for 75 minutes 12/F, Gaysorn Urban Retreat, Gaysorn Village, 02-253-8899. Open daily 11am-9pm
LIFESTYLE
FITNESS
TECH
This multi-label store is all about self-love and healthy lifestyles
Get up to B3,000 of free gym credits from this fitness app
Meet Google’s budgetfriendly, all-star smartphone
Nestled in Ekkamai Soi 12, The Ordinarist stocks a curated selection of activewear and wellness products from local brands sold at affordable prices. Expect minimal swimwear from Studio Common (B3,590 for a two-piece), lifestyle accessories like colorful workout socks (B250) from Actique and cruelty-free skincare products from Delicat (B1,190 for the rose water antioxidant facial toner). There’s also an in-store cafe that serves health-conscious drinks like Boost & Burn Billie (B125; matcha, ginger, lemon, honey). Ekkamai Soi 12. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun 10am-8pm
With gyms closed throughout the height of the Covid pandemic, Bangkok’s fitness industry took a huge blow. To help the local industry get back on its feet, and to encourage Bangkokians to get moving again, FitTripper is offering B1 million worth of free gym bookings to Bangkok residents. Employees of companies who register for the scheme will each be granted up to B3,000 in credits to spend at any of FitTripper’s 60+ Bangkok gym partners. The credits will be loaded directly to each account, meaning that no set-up is needed from the company. Enroll in the scheme at fittripper.com
What: Google Pixel 4a Price: B14,100 (includes shipping and import tax) Why? Google’s budget phone for 2020 gets all the basics right. Design-wise, the Pixel 4a is clean and simple, available in only one size, one matte black color and one internal storage size (128GB). Other features include a 5.81-inch OLED display, a single hole-punch selfie camera, Qualcomm’s Snapdragon 730G, 3,140mAh battery and, yes, a headphone jack. The 12MP sensor single camera may not sound exciting on paper, but the photos it takes pack a punch. Available at amazon.com
Rose Facial at The Oriental Spa B4,500 for 60 minutes Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40, 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm
Second Skin at The Peninsula Spa B6,500 for 60 minutes The Peninsula, 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-020-2888. Open daily 9am-11pm
Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht
BUY IT HAAN HYDRATING HAND SANITIZER A stylish and portable travel companion for everywhere you go (B290). Available at ODS, 3/F, Siam Discovery.
BIN IT BAREFOOT RUNNING SHOES They look ridiculous and they hurt like hell.
BOBBI BROWN Buy up to B2,500 of any Bobbi BARGAIN Brown products and get a free tote bag, plus one Bobbi Brown Luxe Lip Color in Neutral Rose; available at kingpower.com
food & drink | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020
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HOT OFF THE PASS
These are our editors’ picks for BK Restaurant Week BREXIT The news we had feared has now been made official: Olta has closed for good. In its short oneyear lifespan, Suan Phlu’s awesome modern British restaurant made a splash on Bangkok’s food scene with Jamie Wakeford of Phuket’s Bampot Kitchen at the helm. The talented chef is now headed back to the islands, so keep your eyes on Samui for more.
SHORTLIST
We can’t wait for the start of BK Restaurant Week on Sep 19, but with over 60 awesome restaurants on the line-up, it’s tough to know where to start. With multi-course menus ranging from B500++ to B1,000++, you’re guaranteed to get a good deal wherever you go, but here are some of our top picks. Number 5 on Top Tables 2020, the Michelin-starred 80/20 has gone from strength-to-strength since taking an upscale turn early last year; this is your chance to check it out for a third of the usual price. If you haven’t tried the Athenee Hotel’s The Allium yet, we highly recommend checking out this underrated French fine-dining restaurant or, if Italian’s more your thing, don’t miss the chance to dine at Asoke’s photogenic new Mediterra or the revamped Bigoli by Sensi. Based on previous years, solid bets include the Park Hyatt’s sky-high Penthouse Bar + Grill and Siam@Siam’s innovative Thai frontrunner Taan. Booking is now open at bkrestaurantweek.com/bkrw
IN THE RED Get ready for perhaps the biggest news since Taco Bell’s arrival: Thai Union has announced plans to purchase a majority equity stake in Red Lobster. The move follows an initial investment made by the seafood supplier in 2016. Let’s hope this time they’ll bring the US restaurant chain to Bangkok for the stuff of “fancy” date night dreams.
WFB(AR)
TO INFINITY
BOUGIE BITES
Make this Thonglor speakeasy your new daytime office
Mahanakhon’s new set lunches offer incredible value
Langsuan welcomes the upscale Sindhorn Kempinski
One thing Covid has taught us is that working from home isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. If you’re getting tired of cafe-hopping your way through your work week, then head to 008 Bar. Perched 11 floors above Thonglor, the ‘20s-themed speakeasy is now open during the day, serving energizing food-anddrink packages, starting at B490 for two mocktails— we love the refreshing peach yuzu soda—and two choices of food, like laab tofu (B120 on its own), grilled shrimp with Thai chili paste (B180) and grilled pork shoulder marinated in galangal (B130). 11/F, Akyra Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-8959
Planning a sophisticated business lunch or an indulgent weekend brunch with a view? Then head up to the 76th-floor Mahanakhon Bangkok Skybar for their new set lunch menus. On weekdays, pay just B990 for three courses, with choices like roast chicken, beef cheek pappardelle, apple Tatin and chocolate tart. On weekends, don’t miss the chance to try the generous seafood platter starter, featuring Scottish langoustine, Dutch razor clams, French oysters and whelks. The three-course menu is priced at B1,490, or B1,990 with the addition of half a Maine lobster. 76/F, King Power Mahanakhon, 114 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Rd., 02-677-8722
More upscale eats have landed on Langsuan courtesy of Sindhorn Kempinski Hotel Bangkok. Since beginning its partial opening last month, the five star hotel has unveiled a spin-off of one-Michelin-starred Saneh Jaan called Loukjaan by Saneh Jaan, where you can dig into contemporary royal Thai cuisine before dropping by the elegant Firefly Bar for cocktails and whiskey. Come weekends, book afternoon tea at the garden-like Lobby Lounge, where you can choose from Thai European and vegan menus (B750 through Sep 30) served with organic tea grown by Thai farmers. 80 Soi Tonson, 02-095-9999
EXODUS Gourmet pie shop Holy Moly has departed The Commons Thonglor for a new home on Langsuan. If you miss their crispy puff pastry creations in the interim, you can hit them up for delivery via Line (@ holymolybangkok) and phone (089-000-6659).
YOU SAID WHAT?
The news in online foodie posts
“Such a delicious way to help save the planet ” FACEBOOK USER MAY WASANTAPRUEK ON FOOD WASTE RESCUE PLATFORM YINDII.
“Drop by Dough, well deserved recognition for your awesome doughnuts. My waistline thanks you” FACEBOOK USER MACHAR SMITH ON BK’S DONUT TASTE TEST.
“I don’t think it’s going to be productive ”FACEBOOK USER DEEMARC CHANTAVEERAKUL ON 008’S NEW “WORK FROM BAR” SCHEME.
food & drink | open door
Plantiful looks to shake up Bangkok’s healthy food culture The buzz: Born as a delivery-only option and meal plan service offering 100-percent plant-based dishes, Plantiful has now opened a gleaming new cafe at Sukhumvit Soi 61. The owner, a Gen Z graduate from UCLA, is looking to bring the healthy, plant-based diet culture from Los Angeles to Bangkok. The decor: This not-your-usual cafe is premised within the sun-dappled ground-floor room of The Residence at 61 in quiet and laid-back Sukhumvit Soi 61. Enter, and you’ll find yourself propped inside a bright, airy, lofty space with a clean and modern interior design. You’ll find hints of black and white, with leafy indoor plants adorning the corners of the cafe, offering an easy-on-the-eyes experience fitting for brunch or working away on your laptop during the week. You’ll find bottles of wellness drinks and fresh vegetables occupying the counter right beside the cashier area, with a kitchen located in back. On the second floor is a space for future health workshops, accessible via the metal spiral staircase. The food: The cafe whips up hearty, vegan-friendly food like the Bibi Bowl (spinach, shiitake mushrooms, bean sprouts, carrot, Japanese cucumbers and riceberry with a bibimbap dressing; B240), or the baked zucchini and eggplant lasagna (B350). Layered with house-made cashew nut cheese and marinara, it tastes not
too far from the original. For veggie skeptics, the deeply flavorful roasted carrot dip (B260) offers a great introduction to plant-based cuisine. No-nonsense vegetarians and vegans should opt for the cheekily-named Unbeetable Kale Salad (B280), which does not play around when it comes to nutrition. Desserts like the banoffee pie (B150) fall on the lighter side, with a combination of crunchy almond-oat crust, freshly whipped coconut cream sweetened with date caramel sauce and bananas. Wash it all down with a wellness drink like the wholesome beetroot latte or Golden Mylk latte (both B120). The latter is made with turmeric powder, almond milk, and honey. The crowd: Hardcore vegetarians, health-geeks, and borderline nutritionists. Why we’d come back: If you’re a serious lover of vegetarian or plant-based dishes, Plantiful needs to be on your shortlist. If you’re dabbling in the cuisine, some of the more flavorful dishes will ease you into the vegetarian diet. While not predominantly geared toward the Instragram crowd, this place is photogenic enough to update your feed anyway. Plus, you can bring your pets here. Veerabhatr Sriyananda Plantiful, 27 The Residence at 61, open daily 8am-5pm. 091-715-5247
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Gluck
NEW AND NOTED
Thonglor’s airy German cafe offers a peaceful escape Located behind Panjit Tower, plantfilled German cafe Glück comes with a “no junk” motto. Alongside eggs (from B150) and homemade yogurt with granola (B150), the breakfast menu stars German-style open sandwiches, like the vegan “Melbourne”—possibly the cheapest avo-toast in town at B150. The peaceful, laptop-friendly cafe is an ideal spot for a working lunch, with dishes like goulash soup (B200) and German potato salad (B150; add a grass-fed beef burger patty for B100), and also features a separate kids’ area. Don’t leave without sampling Grandma’s Apple Crumble cake (B100), paired with refreshing apfelschorle (sugar-free German apple juice; B80). 117 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 086-000-7114
Head to this Chinatown hideaway for travel-inspired fine dining Located in an old warehouse just off the riverside, Hybe Songwat brings Vietnamese fine dining to Soi Songwat. Priced at B1,590, the current menu is broken down into seven dishes, which include grilled pork with sticky rice mochi and fresh herbs, baked razor clams with kumquat mayonnaise and garlic crumbs, and beef tenderloin with a betel leaf crust. Homemade travel films play in the background as you eat your meal, reflecting the menu’s inspiration: a memorable trip to Can Tho. The theme will change every four months, with the current incarnation available until November. 393 Trok Saphan Yuan, 02-120-7789
Bangkok’s elite flock to this lively Spanish tapas bar At Langsuan’s hard-to-book Vaso, servers dart around the packed counter seating, as the tattooed head chef, Alvaro Ramos, busts out upscale Spanish tapas, like truffle toast (B280) and decadent caviar churros (B790). Kick off with el vaso de ostra con cava (B320), an oyster served atop a glass of Spanish bubbles, before digging into the hearty Arroz Negro (B480), a black paella with cuttlefish and black squid ink. Urged on by loud music from the resident DJ and a glass of sangria (B290), you’ll soon get into the party spirit. Unit A103, Velaa Sindhorn Village, 87 Langsuan Rd., 098-914-4664
TABLE TALK
Meet Fresh B/F, The EmQuartier, Building B, 088-978-2737. Open daily 10am-10pm. Others branch: Chan Rd., 063-208-9566. This popular Taiwanese dessert chain delivers exactly what is advertised—traditional Taiwanese sweets in all shapes and sizes. Popular dishes include purple rice drinks with mini taro balls and fresh milk, blows with glass jelly and shaved ice with taro on top, and milk and jelly teas. Speaking of shaved ice desserts, the brand recently released delicious-looking mango and strawberry versions that come piled high with fresh fruit chunks and a dollop of ice cream on top.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 300 or more / sales slip 15 Jun ’20 – 31 May ’21
food & drink | open door
Volks
TABLE TALK
Blue by Alain Ducasse Blue by Alain Ducasse, Room Unit L101, 1/F, ICONLUXE, ICONSIAM, 02-005-9412. Open Thu-Mon, noon-9pm. Blue by Alain Ducasse is the first and only restaurant in Thailand from the legendary French chef Alain Ducasse. The kitchen is led by Executive Chef Wilfrid Hocquet, a French native who has had a long career of cooking in Michelinstarred kitchens including Le Louis XV by Alain Ducasse ***, Le Bastide de Moustiers * and Benoit Paris *. Blue offers guests the chance to experience an authentic taste of French cuisine whilst enjoying panoramic views of the Chao Phraya River.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Dine 4 pay 3 for Blue Experience Set Menu 5 course or 7 course (Black out dates are 30-31 Oct ’20, 23-25 and 31 Dec ’20, 01 Jan ’21 and 14 Feb ’21) Valid: 20 Aug ’20 – 28 Feb ’21
Nantei
NEW AND NOTED
This yakitori specialist boasts a state-of-theart smokeless grill
Volks brings legit New Phrom Phong welYork-style bagels to comes a British-owned Ari and beyond chippy
With branches in Hong Kong and Macau, Nantei Yakitori uses a nifty smokeless grill and house-made tare to bring out the flavor of local chicken in skewers like the Tsukune Namatamago (chicken meatballs with fresh egg for dipping; B120) and Seseri (grilled chicken neck; B70). Head there for lunch to take advantage of the unbeatable sets, like the Yakitori Don Set (B260), which comes with a grilled teriyaki chicken rice bowl, miso soup, salad and yakitori. Wash it down with a few Yamazakura whiskey highballs (B220), followed up by their signature homemade matcha ice-cream (B50) made with creamy Hokkaido milk. G/F, Montien Mall, 50 Surawong Rd., 092-214-8585
After starting out with just cookies, Volks has quickly expanded with a small selection of bagels and bagel sandwiches, like the smoked salmon and capers (B250) and caprese (mozzarella cheese, cherry tomatoes and basil, B220), served on black or white sesame seed, crispy onion and Asiago cheese bagels (from B60). The menu also features a selection of flavored cream cheese spreads (from B30), like wasabi or the Mediterranean-redolent fig and black pepper. Volks currently operates a pick-up store at the end of Pradiphat 13 (Tue-Sun, 9am-2pm, 080-102-7190) and a pop-up store at Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 (daily, 9am-7pm).
The Brits of Bangkok are descending on Buster’s for its comforting line-up of beer-battered fish and chips (B330 for Pacific cod or sea bass; B370 for halibut), artisan pies (chicken tikka masala, B180; wagyu and onion, B185) and banoffee pie (B140). For the real deal, pair your meal with mushy peas (B50), pickled onions (B40) and a cold beer (B80) or apple cider (B160). With its black-and-white checkerboard floor and edgy red-and-black tiled walls, the narrow chip shop packs in a handful of tables for dine-in and also offers take-away and delivery (Line: @bustersbkk). 591/9 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 083-598-3973. Open daily 10am-11pm
food & drink | taste test
Who delivers the best pizza in Bangkok?
Soho The brand: The New Yorkstyle pizza chain born on Soi Winner! 11 has spread its saucy tentacles citywide, with a new branch opening in Thonglor. The pizza: Cheese (B260/12in.) The taste: At a glance, the crust looks great: lofty, bubbly, perfectly charred. When we bite into it, we’re pleased to report that the taste lives up the appearance. They’re not skimping on ingredients, either. There’s pungent, sharp Parmesan—possibly too sharp, actually— delightfully chewy dough, and awesome, homemade-tasting tomato sauce. Good for: Convincing your friends that you have taste
Pizza Massilia The brand: Co-founded by Luka Appino of La Bottega di Luca, Runner this former food truck now Up! boasts a couple of brick-andmortar locations, serving—and delivering—Marseille-style pizza. The pizza: Margherita (B290) The taste: A lovely char on the crust, flavorful but not overpowering cheese, and a good toppings-tosauce ratio produces one delicious bite. The dough is chewy, the basil on top fresh, the sauce impeccable. The only drawback is this is basically a personal pan pizza, it’s so small. Good for: Wine-fueled dinner dates
Gallery Pizza
The pandemic: bad. Opportunities the pandemic has provided: not all bad. Take, for instance, throwing parties at home. Whether you’re having a bunch of friends over or trying to impress your date but the best dish you know how to cook is instant ramen, your go-to will always be pizza. But who delivers the best in this city? We threw our own pizza party to find out.
The brand: The pizza powerhouse launched out of Sathorn 11 Art Space now has a location in Ekkamai and delivers citywide until 4am. You can’t beat the perennial two for B499 deal, either. The pizza: Margherita (B265) The taste: There isn’t much rise in the dough, which leaves us feeling flat, too. Everything else, however, is pretty solid. The sauce is nice, the toppings are fine, the crust tastes alright. One selling point: this is the biggest pizza of the bunch. Good for: Sobering up deliciously at 3am
Pizza Mania The brand: Asoke’s delivery-only pioneer boasts a rabidly loyal fanbase. The brand largely
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2020
deals in New York-style pizzas, but it occasionally dabbles in Detroit-style pizzas, too. The pizza: Margherita (B315) The taste: This is not a working-class pizza. It’s beautifully decorated with lots of fresh basil and whole slices of tomato. Then again, as one taster said, “You don’t want healthy on delivery pizza.” But you do want flavor, and that’s where the bland sauce leaves us crying out for more. Good for: The upper middle-class
Urban Pizza The brand: This new, delivery-only player on the pizza scene popped up during the pandemic and appears to be operated by the Pizza Company. The pizza: Pizza Margarita (B369/medium) The taste: The cheese is more earthy brown than golden, leading us to wonder if it’s been overcooked. The dense, floury crust suggests otherwise. It definitely doesn’t look appetizing, but the flavor is alright, if you don’t mind the cloying, oregano-heavy sauce. One taster declared: “It tastes like being drunk at a party.” Good for: Binge-eating with lots of beer
The Pizza Company The brand: Gracing our city since 1981, the Pizza Company comes from billionaire Bill Heinecke’s Minor International conglomerate. The pizza: Double cheese pan pizza (B319) The taste: There’s no nuance, but there is nostalgia. The dough is as puffy as a Northface jacket, but it tastes deep-fried, and its saltiness recalls class parties in elementary school. Cheesy, greasy, shame-inducing: honestly, you know what you’re getting yourself into when you place your order. Good for: 5-year-olds
Scoozi The brand: The fine dining restaurant born in Bangkok in 1997 is now a burgeoning chain with a Yikes! four-digit delivery number, 1227. The pizza: Margherita (B250) The taste: This pancake-flat pizza is loaded with basil, but an abundance of herbs only goes so far in masking its cardboard-like blandness. In fact, the basil is the only part of this pizza with any flavor. Not to damn with faint praise or anything, but it tastes worse than it looks. Good for: Pizza emergencies only
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travel | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2020
14
KRABI
Avani opens a new property beside the limestone cliffs in Ao Nang
This hospitality group wants you to detox with a vegan retreat in Koh Samui
Asai Hotels
Krabi’s latest hotel player comes from rapidly expanding Avani Hotels, the Thai brand, owned by Minor Hotels, which is suddenly appearing in destinations across the world. Avani Ao Nang Cliff Krabi Resort offers 178 rooms and villas; the latter sit on a hill, boasting sunset views over the sea. The indoor-outdoor playground, AvaniKids, caters to families, while four dining and drinking venues offer guests everything from breakfast and coffee to classic cocktails beside the infinity pool and sundowners at The Peak, the resort’s rooftop bar. Rates start at a pocket-frinedly B1,100/ night. For more information, check out avanihotels.com/ao-nang-krabi.
Avani
SAMUI
Kapuhala, the boutique hospitality group and global lifestyle brand with branches in Hong Kong and Sicily, is now in Koh Samui. The resort is an eco-friendly haven, offering vegan retreats with a focus on nutrition and fitness. It’s specifically ideal for those training for races, like the body-busting spartan events or triathlons, hence the 25-sq-meter pool and 100-sq-meter fitness center. Food-wise, you can expect specially created plant-based dishes at both the restaurant and rooftop lounge. Rates start from just B1,900/night (villas B2,700/night). Visit kapuhalasamui.com for more.
BANGKOK
PHUKET
Chinatown welcomes a Millennial-friendly hotel from the Dusit group
Phuket reopens to international tourism… maybe?
You may remember the Dusit group for its delightful relic of a hotel currently being ripped to bits across from Lumphini Park. Now the Grand Old Dame is back with a new brand, Asai Hotels, made for a younger crowd. Opening Sep 15 (pre-opening rates currently B1,500/night) behind I’m Chinatown, the Asai Chinatown boasts 224 rooms with pared-down designs, plus a large communal space, a bar offering craft beer and cocktails, a courtyard with an organic herb garden, and Jam Jam, a restaurant serving creative Thai cuisine. The brand expects to open hotels in Sathorn, Cebu, Yangon and Kyoto in the next year, too.
Phuket is welcoming long-stay tourists in October! Or is it? True to form, no one knows the answer. We do know that the provincial authorities want to inject the almighty tourist dollar into their economy, and to do that they’ve crafted a pretty solid plan: long-stay guests take direct flights to Phuket, endure a two-week quarantine in their hotel, and then get free rein to do whatever their aching hearts desire on the island. Bangkok officials, however, aren’t exactly giving the plan the green light yet, despite lending this creative scheme their tacit support.
EXPLORE AND SUPPORT BANGKOK’S BEST RESTAURANTS THIS SEP 19 - OCT 3 Public booking for all card types starts Aug 31
For only B1,000*, B750* and B500* *All prices are exclusive of 10% booking fee and 7% VAT.
Visit bkrestaurantweek.com #BKRW2020 #bkrestaurantweek
neighborhood | Talat Phlu
West Side Story When talking about street food hubs, Chinatown is always the first place that pops up in our mind. But on the other side of the river, Talat Phlu is offering a more laid-back and down-to-earth street food scene, plus cool attractions waiting to be discovered. By Supanan Anansuviroj
Coffee & Breakfast Nibble on Lotus Biscoff cheesecake (B125) with a flat white (B85) while watching fluffy cats take a nap at LYNX Coffee. Over at glasshouse-like No.16 Love Cafe, they’re doing some healthy dishes like Veggie Veggie (kale and lemon smoothie) and yogurt topped with mixed fruit (both B150). You can act like a real Talat Phlu-ian with a cup of iced coffee (B20) at long-standing Suriya Coffee and follow with a set of Jae Hoong Nom Sod’s signature steamed bread and pandan kaya dip (B30).
Lunch & Dinner We asked the locals here for some recommendations, but they said that it might take days to list out all the places. So here’s a little street food crawl you can do. Warm up your stomach with Kaporpla Naibuay’s fish maw soup (B35) before stuffing your
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2020
face with khao moo daeng with crispy pork and Chinese sausage (B35) at Sunee Khao Moo Daeng. Grab Ni-ang’s coconut ice cream with egg yolk (B40), then you can either walk to Lee Heng Sao Ching Cha for kua kai (stir-fried noodles with chicken and egg) or Kanom Bueng Yuan Su-arpa for stuffed Vietnamese pancakes (both B45). Stop by Kanomwan Talat Phlu to get some sweet sticky rice topped with custard (B20) for the road. Right across the street, Guichai Lee Por Ngek does great steamed guichai (spinach cakes; B10/pc). End the food tour at Mee Krob Jeen Lee with crispy stir-fried noodles with shrimp and crab (from B200).
Drinks Grab a cold one and sing along to live performances at Cube by Moody’s Bar. Want to sing more? Hit up The Terminal 8 for their pri-
vate karaoke room—for B499, you can sing until one in the morning. Score a seat at neon-drenched Day Off and get a jar of slushy cocktail (from B299). Meanwhile, Baan Talat Phlu Craft Beer offers a good selection of craft beer bottles, from Mahanakorn’s white ale to Outlaw’s IPA.
Transport BTS Talat Phlu is a three-minute ride away.
Visit You can challenge your friends with a game of Ultimate Werewolf or Cards Against Humanity at Landmark Board Game Cafe. If you need some pictures for the ‘Gram, check out Talat Phlu’s Tree Tunnel. With Thailand’s all-year-round heatwave guaranteed to make you sweat, take a stroll in The Mall Thapra to cool down. Talat Phlu is a home to a slew of temples, too.
Pay a visit to Wat Chantharam Worawihan or Wat Ratchakhue Worawithan to stock up on good karma.
Accommodation Studio rooms at Supalai Loft at Talat Phlu and Aspire SathornThapra start as low as B10,000/ month. Just a minute walk from BTS Talat Phlu, Casa Condo Ratchada-Ratchaphruek offers one-bedrooms for B11,000/ month. If you’re looking for a two-bedroom, a unit at The Parkland Taksin-Thapra will set you back B20,000/month, while a unit at Whizdom Station Ratchada-Thapra runs from 25,000/month.
BK ASKS
Why do you love Talad Phlu?
SUPACHOK RUANGSIRIDECHA, OWNER OF GUICHAI LEE POR NGEK “It’s not only a street food hub, but also a cultural hub.”
SUCHADA KONGKRAPAN, OWNER OF KANOMWAN TALAT PHLU “From the perspective of a person who has been living here their whole life, there’s more to Talat Phlu than meets the eye.”
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THANET LEELAWONGTHEWA, OWNER OF LYNX COFFEE “This neighborhood is a lovely and tranquil community for people of all generations.”