BK Magazine 764, June 24 2019 by BK Magazine

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Adopt, Don't Shop The social enterprise giving cat cafes purpose Southern Comfort Make your beach escape to Satun province Cream of the Crop Who makes Bangkok's best butter chicken? Pride of Bangkok Where to celebrate pride month

Love is love NO. 764 JUN 14, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

B E T T E R THAN NEW How art is helping to regenerate Bangkok's old buildings

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6/6/19 12:16 PM

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Sub-Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

Bangkok PAWs, the adoptable cat cafe

Who's in charge?

upfront

The BK Guide to Free Publicity

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom Marketing Manager Jainjit Limthornbenjapol Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

06 cover

The art of urban regeneration

People accuse BK of being paid to post stories about brands all the time. Lies! It’s much simpler (and cheaper) than that. Follow these rules to 21st century publicity and guarantee yourself a spot on any reputable lifestyle media’s social feed. 1. Make a completely meaningless move towards banning plastic bags Maximum exposure for minimum real-world environmental impact. It’s simple. Pick a day at random. Announce it as your “Plastic Bag Free Day” (don’t worry, you won’t actually have to stop giving out plastic bags on that day). Next, notify one staff member at one cashier counter to ask customers if they want a plastic bag. It’s optional whether staff even bother with this. In reward, we predict at least B50 million in free coverage—if not any actual environmental benefit.

SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Paphawee Akkaragumtorn, Suthivas Tanphaibul, Chayanid Udomrattanasirichai, Naruenet Phothet, Chutima Adulchitt, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Lalana Plangsombat, Sasin Imla, Tanaporn Pongpeng Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)

travel

Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Why Satun is the perfect beach escape

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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Sukhumvit 23

22 nightlife

Pride Parties

2. Hire an old person Nothing says three-minute mini-doc on The Standard quite like a 70-year-old barista, unboxing Youtube granny or wrinkly old Ikea employee. We advise you to dress them up in some cliche hipster gear like a flat cap and French worker jacket for maximum Facebook shares. 3. Turn your Facebook logo rainbow colors Five minutes spent in Photoshop could net you some serious feels points. Boring black and white logo: no shares. Yay-LGBTQ rainbow color logo: 300 shares, a comments section fizzing with GIFs and stickers, and inclusion in a lisitical about all the ways Bangkok businesses are celebrating Pride Month. 4. Make up an outrageous price no one’s actually paying This one’s as old as time—or at least as old as Trader Vic’s B6,000 hamburger from 2007 (any readers still remember that?). But the tired old PR trick of pulling a ridiculous price out of a hat then selling it to the media as a “world’s most expensive” story is still coughing up blood. Just last month we met up with a fitness trainer offering Bangkok’s most expensive personal training at—wait for it—B120,000 per session. Yeah, we wrote about him. 5. And if all else fails, dump free food at the office There are two ways of going about this. One, simply Line message the editor one hour ahead of time, “Hey we’ve got pizza/ice cream/Mexican/sandwiches [delete as applicable] coming for you guys” before dumping a load of free food at any magazine or website’s headquarters. The unwritten rule of “You ate it, you better post it!” will be good for at least an IG story, maybe even a permanent pic post. Alternatively, turn up unannounced with 20 people from your Marcom team plus a hamper of M&S cookies— the more of you there are, the more likely it’ll be they run your press release about "10-percent discount on best available room rates for foreigners with a work permit." .

6/7/19 6:18 PM

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

HOT OR NOT

BONE BROTH

And we’re not talking about bak kut teh (though that is still “Hot” and will be for at least another week). Hollywood stick insects are going crazy for the slimming powers of chicken or beef bones simmered for hours with ginger and Chinese herbs, and Bangkok just got its first watery, unsatisfying taste of the action with Genius Bar on Thonglor. Where else?

This adoptable cat cafe is redefining the controversial trend INTERVIEW

Since 2012, PAWs Bangkok has provided care and shelter for Bangkok’s proliferating stray cat population. At their new adoptable cat cafe, visitors can come to adopt and play with their cats and kittens, while raising money for the shelter. The cafe is open every Sunday at Ekkamai’s Union Space co-working facility. We caught up with PAWs volunteer Kirsty Smith, 42, who masterminded the idea.

“With this cat cafe you could actually save lives”

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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How did you get into volunteering with PAWs? I’ve always been involved with animal rescue organizations. When I moved to Bangkok from the UK four years ago, I saw there was a massive problem with street animals, so I searched for volunteer opportunities and found PAWs. How did you come up with the cat cafe idea? At PAWs, I’m responsible for visiting schools to talk to kids about animal welfare. I started approaching universities to see if they would be interested in us coming over during exams, to allow students to de-stress with our cats. That fell through, so I began thinking about coworking spaces. We started off at Union Space, where we’d bring our cats every Monday from 12-5pm for the “Calming Cat Cuddle Corner.” Union Space is closed on Sundays, so the director asked if we wanted to do something with it, and that’s when the idea for the cat cafe came to me. Tell us more about the project We launched the cat cafe on Sunday May 19. There are around 120 cats at our shelter and most of them are adoptable. We have been running adoption events at the shelter most weekends, but since we also have injured and upset-looking cats there, the environment can be off-putting to some people. We’ve always wanted to create a nicer environment where people could come and play with our cats and take them home but it hadn’t been possible before, since we run solely on donations. Now, every Sunday from 11am-5pm, we transform Union Space into a cat cafe—we decorate it

with a lot of cat furniture donated by people like KAFBO, Catty Craft and King Kong Pet Shop. You can come and have a drink (we also have vegan options), adopt a cat, or find out how to be a volunteer with us. Has it been successful so far? On our second Sunday, we had our first two adoptions. I really feel like this is going to take off—as with any other cat cafe you can chill with the cats, but with this one you could actually save lives. How do you feel about animal cafes in general? To get our cats adopted into a home is just a very small part of our mission. Our main part is to educate people about animal welfare and to minimize the street population. We try to encourage people to spay and neuter their pets; we are against breeding and people buying their animals from shops. Because of that, we are quite against animal cafes that have special breeds, like where do they come from? Though, so long as the cats are being well looked after and they are not from bad breeders or from the markets, I guess some cat cafes are not so bad. How does Bangkok’s current stray animal situation compare to when you arrived? I think it’s just the same—as long as there’s no infrastructure or places for capture and release in place, it will just stay the same. We can only do so much until something is actually put in place by the authorities. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

CANNIBALS Poor Si Quey Sae-Ung. Shot by firing squad then left to drip away in a glass box for 60 years, only for people to finally accept his innocence thanks to a Tweet. The Siriraj Medical Museum this month removed the word “cannibal” from its macabre display of the Chinese immigrant’s body after a viral Twitter campaign by @ChangeSiam. What should they target next?

2014 It’s been five long years since the coup, and we can’t help feeling Bangkok’s stuck in time. Prayuth’s still prime minister, tomahawk steaks are still on the menu, and Phum Viphurit’s funk-folk affectations are still high on the average Bangkokian’s playlist (see page 11). Politics aren’t the only thing in need of a shakeup.

REPETITION Love seeing the same old touring bands, but hate forking out B2,200 a pop for the privilege? Very Festival is for you. Spread across two days, the lineup is packed with what seems like every indie artist who’s already visited in the past 12 months. (Real question, does FKJ live here?) All we need is Honne and Lany added to phase 2 for those B3,200 early bird tickets to be a real bargain.

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

6/7/19 6:14 PM

ADVERTORIAL

GREENLAND WILD-CAUGHT HALIBUT, TASTY, RICH AND HEALTHY, NOW AVAILABLE

AT THE DOCK

One of Bangkok’s best seafood restaurants, The Dock, unveils three special seasonal dishes as their ‘Catch of the Season,’ all which accentuate delicious Greenland Halibut. Known for its firm yet juicy texture, superior flavour and high nutritional content, Greenland Halibut is one of the most popular fish with chefs and diners alike.

Catch of the Season

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GREENLAND HALIBUT, WHY SO DELICIOUS?

DIVINE VERSATILITY

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MAIN HARISSA SPICED HALIBUT Marinated in Harissa, a North African aromatic curry paste, this Halibut dish gets its powerful flavour from roasted peppers, red chilis, sherry vinegar, cumin and caraway seeds. The fish is grilled and served on top of tabbouleh, a Levantine salad made of quinoa, fresh tomato, mint, lemon juice and olive oil, along with lemon and mint yoghurt, and pickled cucumber. TO SHARE BAKED HALIBUT WITH CHORIZO This dish is made for sharing among parties and friends. Halibut is slow-baked with a wonderful aroma from a healthy mix of thyme and butter. It’s served on top of a French-inspired cassoulet stew, consisting of tomatoes, white beans and smoked chorizo sausage, along with herb-crusted bread crumbs and a side of parmesan cheese.

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cover | better than new

C R E A T I V E EXCHANGE

Historic buildings throughout Bangkok are re-emerging from years of dereliction to host new art galleries and creative endeavors. By Carl Dixon

ATT 19 19 Charoenkrung Soi 30, 083-555-5739. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm

“We don’t look at the gallery-artist relationship as a 50/50 thing. The artist should get more.”

ATT 19

- Porntip “Mook” Attakanwong, ATT 19’s creative director

ATT 19

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When the bright blue doors closed on the Arthorn Suksa school in mid-2017, Charoenkrung locals could have been forgiven for thinking the 120-year-old building would make way for yet another condo. Fast-forward two years and the sprawling multi-purpose art, retail and F&B hub that was eventually unveiled in time for Bangkok Design Week 2019 puts forward a convincing case for the tasteful regeneration of heritage buildings. Accessed via a slender, fern-lined pathway that cuts between old shophouse residences, ATT 19 takes on the breezy, clean look of a day spa or resort—most fitting for a project that hopes to take the intimidation factor out of appreciating art. Behind the project is Pornthep “Lek” Attakanwong, founder of nextdoor’s Lek Gallery, a Charoenkrung institution of the past 40 years, his wife Janya and two of his daughters. “My parents have run Lek Gallery since they were in their early 20s,” explains Porntip “Mook” Attakanwong, ATT 19’s creative director. “We are known as people who like preserving things, but it was luck that they acquired the building. The former headmistress of the school, who recently passed away, was a friend.” Lek, who studied architecture, took on the restoration job himself with the aid of his small in-house team. Using only reclaimed wood, tiles and bricks, the original structure was repaired before being expanded to occupy a total 2,000 sq meters of floor space. Whitewashed walls, raw concrete flooring and glass balance out exposed teak ceilings, ghostly remnants of old staircases and century-old tapestries. Reminiscent of Chiang Mai or Hoi An’s old residencies turned urban sanctuaries, the first floor opens onto a covered courtyard replete with greenery. Here, you can shop for meticulously imperfect Japanese ceramics (from B1,100 up to ten times that amount), vintage and designer clothing, Asian antiques and an ever-changing array of handmade decor. “We focus on one-offs—vintage, antique or ‘one-of-one’ pieces,” Mook says. “We want to take antiques off the pedestal, and show people that they are for real-life home use. I always say, ‘If you’re going to buy two Ikea vases, save that money for something that’s a real conversation starter.’” Upstairs, among the eaves of the original building, an exhibition space welcomes new work every month. Proceedings kicked off with “Who I Am,” a collection of intricate, abstract drawings and paintings from U.S. artist Douglas Diaz. Mook says shows will jump between contemporary art and Asian antique history. “We want to help make art accessible. Bangkok Design Week has a market, it has food. It brings people together in a way that’s not intimidating. We hope to tap into something similar,” Mook says. “We don’t look at the gallery-artist relationship as a 50/50 thing. The artist should get more. If it’s a student, we might look at a 20/80 split. How else can people get their start?”

6/7/19 6:20 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Joan Cornella’s “Happy Endings”at Woof Pack

Emphasizing the casual atmosphere, Bad Ass Asia Bar (B.A.A.B) is a cocktail and tapas bar founded by Mook’s sister, Puntip “Cher” Attakanwong, and friend Phanida “Tudtue” Slanvetpan. Both the food and drink lean heavily on Asian ingredients and flavors. Try the Shanghai Mist (B370), an easy-drinking mix of white tea-infused vodka with pomelo juice served in a petite teapot—perfect for sundown in the breezy courtyard. A restaurant, Mad Beef, also by Cher, will launch shortly to offer a meat-focused chef’s table experience to only eight diners per night around a sleek wooden counter that’s guarded by two figures decked out in antique Japanese samurai armour—one of Lek’s oldest passions. As a weekend destination, this stylish spot bridges the gap between the youth-oriented Warehouse 30 and Charoenkrung’s niche antique dealers. There is talk of holding block parties and other collaborative events. “Growing up in Australia and the U.S., it’s normal to go to the gallery on the weekend. Here, there’s a lot of censorship and gallery behavior has yet to be normalized. That’s something we’re hoping can change.”

WOOF PACK 1/3-9 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 089-826-2299. Open daily 10am-6pm

Not many office buildings boast of a steakhouse or ice-cream parlor on their ground floors, let alone their own indie cinema, exhibition space or rooftop bar with lush park views. But then Woof Pack is not your regular office building. When it came to creating a space for their branding consultancy firm, Thai-British entrepreneur Jay Spencer and his wife, Jareyadee, were determined to do things differently. Taking out a lengthy lease on a five-story building near the corner of Sala Daeng Soi 1 and Rama 4 Road, Jay and Jareyadee set out to renovate the place floor by floor. Built in the late ‘80s, the building had sat mostly vacant for 15 years after the Tom Yum Kung financial crisis. “We wanted to create a community of design and creative types who would gravitate towards each other,” Jay says. Alongside his consultancy firm, Woof Pack, the building is home to offices from heavy-hitters like Red Bull (marketing), Whitespace (design) and Z Communications (PR), independent cinema Bangkok Screening Room, an exhibition space and a slew of hip eateries, from Guss Damn Good’s experimental ice creams to Happy Endings’ modern Vietnamese cuisine. “The second floor [home to cinema and exhibition space] is like the filling in the sandwich, where we attract foot traffic that ultimately serves all the other tenants,” Jay explains. The cinema screens a mix of international cult classics and local indie flicks, while the whitewashed exhibition space hosts everything from edgy photo shows to Mad Magazine retrospectives (see box, right).

“Some people call us a gallery, but I wouldn’t go that far,” he continues. “We provide a canvas for people. Anyone could paint the walls white, install the right lighting. This might sound weird, but interspersing art with commercial ventures in one space helps people feel more comfortable. We’re not an uptight art space; we’re versatile.” At present, Woof Pack hosts around six exhibitions per year, and many times that in corporate events. “We’ve had exhibitions where we’ve sold 70-90 pieces; [Spanish illustrator] Joan Cornella brought in 10,000 people in three weeks. It’s our way of supporting the art scene here, even if the corporate events are where we see the big return. We’ve had fashion shows, Netflix castings, [Australian skincare brand] Aesop took over the space with a laboratory.” Jay and Jareyadee certainly did their location homework. Sitting on the fringes of Bangkok’s financial district, tree-lined Sala Daeng Soi 1 is a hive of activity on weekdays. “We sent students out to survey office workers within a 350-meter radius of the building, and they came back with a number of around 16,500. That’s a lot of people. We have around 100 or so people working just in our building, but we also wanted to be an anchor for everyone working around here.” Woof Pack forges community by allotting space out front for streetfood vendors to sell their goods in a sanitary environment (“they’ve been here longer than us”). “I hate the word gentrification. But traveling to Tokyo, Hong Kong and Sydney, we found these pockets of the city where by applying a little creativity, ingenuity and TLC to old properties, people were creating these vibrant communities. You need to make a sensible argument for maintaining these old structures. Second-generation kids might have cool plans, but their parents just say no.” He says Woof Pack is currently at full occupancy, abides by a low-carbon footprint and is an example of using a space to its capacity. The crowning glory is penciled in for July when a rooftop bar dubbed Ohho will pair treetop views of Lumphini Park with beer and wine at prices which, according to Jay, will “keep people coming back.”

BANGKOK 1899 134 Nakhon Sawan Rd. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm

In a city with so few parks and public meeting spots (malls don’t count, sorry), Bangkok 1899 comes off as a true anomaly. “People have visited and asked, ‘where’s the museum?’” laughs Susannah Tantemsapya, the venue’s Thai-American director. “We’re not a museum.” Truth is, there’s no easy way to describe new open-house policy that sees Baan Chao Phraya Thammasakmontri welcome the public for the first time in its 120 years. The crisp white, three-story structure nestled amid the sleepy shop-houses of Nang Loeng neighborhood was designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno (Neilson Hays Library, Anantasamakhom Throne Hall) at the turn of the 20th century and was once occupied by “Thailand’s father of modern education,” Chaophraya Thammasakmontri. Yet despite this rich history, the house stood unoccupied for around 13 years. That’s until Susannah, the founder of Creative Migration, an international arts organization operating in LA and Bangkok, stepped in. Back in the States, Creative Migration made a name for documentaries,

ART AND ABOUT NEWS FROM BANGKOK’S ART COMMUNITY

CHO WHY

WOOF PACK

100 TONSON

CHO NO Cho Why, the multi-floored and multi-disciplinary art space on the fringes of Chinatown, has called it a day after four years of exhibitions, documentary screenings, rooftop paella nights and other informal gatherings. We understand the founders will stay involved in various creative endeavors, just away from the buzzing nightlife hub that the “other” Soi Nana has become. SHEER MADNESS Till Jun 26, Woof Pack (see left) gathers some 20 artworks by Apichai Bhakdibutr, a Thai artist whose satirical illustrations filled the pages of Germany’s notorious Mad Magazine throughout the ‘70s and ‘80s. On top of Apichai’s various original covers, expect new pieces adapted to modern times (yes, that means appearances by Donald Trump). WINDOW DISPLAY Suan Phlu Soi 1’s bohemian drinking den Smalls has given over its outside windows to the Gallerie SmArt project, a petite “gallery” that has already showcased owner David Jacobson’s snaps of Soi 11 partygoers at the turn of the millennium and the provocative paintings of Myrtille Tibayrenc. Watch this space. CHECK IN Bangkok art world’s day of days is upon us. On Jun 22-23, the glitzy W Bangkok hotel will gather some 20+ of the region’s top galleries under one roof as part of the Hotel Art Fair. Participating galleries include Artist+Run, Chin’s Gallery, Kalwit Studio & Gallery, Korea Tomorrow, Subhashok the Arts Centre, La Lanta Fine Art and many, many more. Entry is free, with registration.

Bangkok 1899

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EAT THIS Regardless of where you sit on the debate over photographing your food, you’ll want to head to 100 Tonson Gallery for its latest exhibition, “EAT” by Takanobu Kobayashi. A decade in the works, the exhibition combines the Japanese artist’s minimalist paintings of tableware with wall-to-wall photographs of his actual meals taken over the years. Showing till Jul 21.

6/7/19 6:21 PM

cover | better than new

Bangkok 1899

Luo Yang’s “Girls”at RDX Offsite

Darkle’s “Limbo” at RDX Offsite

“Social change comes when people get together to talk and look at things through the eyes of others.” - Susannah Tantemsapya, Bangkok 1899’s founder and director

public installations and residency programs. Here, they’ve drawn on financial support from The Rockefeller Foundation and Ford Motor Co. Fund to open the gorgeous abode to collaborative art projects, socially-minded workshops and, well, the general pursuit of leisure. It’s a model common in Europe, she says, but rarely found in Thailand or Southeast Asia. “We’re a light-hearted, egalitarian space that welcomes all age groups and perspectives, highlighting similarities not differences,” she says. “Social change comes when people get together to talk and look at things through the eyes of others. We try not to be too heavy-handed with our message.” The house has been stripped back to resemble its heyday. “It was a house of innovation for its time,” says Susannah, who led the light restoration efforts aimed at removing gaudy additions from the ‘80s and ‘90s. Though no original plans remain, the high-ceilinged, well-ventilated space appears primed for 21st-century living. On the second floor sits an office, a room for panel discussions and private living quarters for artists-in-residence. An attic will host a lighting installation by Tuck Muntabhorn that will be visible from the street. While Bangkok 1899 does host exhibitions, you won’t always find art lining its walls. Susannah likens it to Strelka in Moscow or Islington Mill in Manchester, multi-purpose “open houses” that don’t rely on set activities. You’re welcome to spread a blanket out on the lawn or simply enjoy the house as it was intended to be used, in the knowledge you might meet other interesting people. The residency program launched with Shayne P. Carter, a New Zealand musician known for his bands Straitjacket Fits and Dimmer. Carter’s two-month stay culminated in a cross-genre collaboration with Piyanart “Pump” Jotikasthira (of Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band and Aparmentkhunpa), the rhythm section of Toomturn Molam Group, and Chiang Mai-based noise artist Arnont Nongyao. Next up is another Kiwi, Tiffany Singh, a “social practice” artist whose colorful and immersive installations often carry community-building themes. Natural indigo-dye workshops and cyclical fashion roundtables speak of Bangkok 1899’s sustainabilitycredentials. Visitors can also kick back with a cold-pressed juice or homegrown coffee courtesy of Na Cafe, a zero-waste, “social-impact” operation by Sakson “Saks” Rouypirom, of Broccoli Revolution and SATI non-profit platform. They will eventually offer a full food menu using ingredients from their own veggie patch, too. “We’re all about collaborating,” Susannah states. And she means it. Down a little side-soi from Bangkok 1899 sits FREC (Ford Resource and Engagement Center), a three-story schoolhouse turned auditorium and cluster of offices that houses partner environmental NGOs such as SOS (Scholars of Sustenance), Nature Inc and Precious Plastic. Visitors are encouraged to take a 9-baht canal boat service to Bangkok 1899.

RDX OFFSITE OHK Building, 5/F, 839 Charoenkrung Soi 31.

Last December, when Chinese photographer Luo Yang brought her intimate portrait series “Girls” to Bangkok, the primary venue was not the usual pristine-white gallery. Art appreciators had to venture deep into Talad Noi in search of a barely signposted shop-house. After a rickety elevator ride up five floors they found themselves in a vast, warehouse-like space where large prints mostly hung from wires. “Usually when you enter a gallery, it’s like stepping into a church or temple. Once the doors close, you’re shut off from the world,” says French curator and printmaker Francois Langello, who together with

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Jim Brewer, a London-hailing photographer and director known for handles like Darkle and Proxy, oversaw the exhibition. “With Offsite we were going for something radically different.” RDX Offsite is not so much a venue, but a nomadic project that’s tied to Langello’s RDX Printshop, a photo lab on Charoenkrung. Langello explains that they like to work with what’s already existing, partly because of the costs involved in doing up a space, but mainly because of the way the right space can add another dimension to the art. They felt the raw, unairconditioned space—“70 percent windows and 30 percent walls”—was an ideal fit for the immediacy of Luo’s work, which explores femininity in contemporary China. “Her photographs are raw and bold, yet intimate and delicate. She has access to incredible subjects; women who fall on the margins of Chinese society,” Brewer says. Langello chimes in: “With RDX Offsite, we were lucky. The owner wanted to do something and didn’t see it as a financial opportunity. The whole family, the mother and aunts, came up the night before the opening. We were worried about how they would react to the nudity. But it all went great and confirmed Luo’s talent for connecting viewer and subject.” “Girls” was actually the second exhibition to be held at RDX Offsite after Brewer’s own “Limbo,” a series of black and white photos delving into the Southeast Asian epidemic of addiction. The name is an apt one for such a venue that blurs lines. Langello and Brewer share their passion for hunting down disused spaces with Jeff Gompertz, a Brooklyn-hailing artist who oversees Pomp, a kind of artists’ commune beside the khlong in Talad Noi, out of which RDX Printshop operates. From 2015-17, Langello ran the NACC project on Chinatown’s Soi Nana, in which a seemingly derelict shop-house played host to a range of mind-melting multimedia projects, including a Photo Festival without photos and regular “Bring Your Own Everything” evenings, while providing space for local street-food vendors as a sort of public front. “It was a way of being invisible; food out the front, while we did our thing out the back,” Langello says. Another of Brewer’s projects involved painting an 11-meter-long stencil imitating the form of a movie end title slate that declared “The End” onto the perimeter fence at the site of the razed Siam Theatre. While some projects approach guerilla art, others require building up trust with building owners, which can prove difficult. “There’s a lot of old money, so often property owners aren’t in any great rush to put their buildings to use. It’s not like Hong Kong, where they’ve reached saturation point and are now having to build up and up,” Brewer says. Langello, Brewer and Gompertz were all involved in last year’s Bangkok Biennial, which they toast as a great success. This sponsor-free art event, not to be confused with the big-budget Bangkok Biennale, saw installations and performances take place at loosely-defined “pavilions” across town, including Pomp, while Brewer even held a lightbox exhibition in his Soi Nana bedroom. With their fascination with impermanence, it’s perhaps fitting that RDX Offsite, as it existed for only two shows, is no more. Langello says the section of building has been sold, probably to become a hotel. But the project will live on—even if it’s in unintentional ways. “We were scrolling through Instagram and dicovered that 50 or so Rangsit art students were using the space for a group exhibition [named Anthrophotogracene],” laughs Langello. “They were using the RDX Offsite geotag as if it were official, though they must have negotiated directly with the owner. We visited and there was some great stuff on display—different to what we’d do—but they’d walled up the place to be more like a traditional gallery.”

6/7/19 6:21 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

RISE AND SHINE: BANGKOK BREAKFAST PLACES FOR EARLY RISERS GET A TASTY START TO THE DAY WITHOUT ALL THE KITCHEN MESS

Smashed Avocado with Poached Eggs & Bacon

Get your breakfast fill at THE COFFEE CLUB without all the kitchen mess

Nutella Pancakes with Fresh Berries

BANGKOK TRADING POST

TINY CUP CAFE

Opens: 6am This hip all-day-dining cafe at the foot of 137 Pillar Suites does baked items and sandwiches from the deli counter as well as international comfort dishes, namely Thai congee (B110), farmer’s omelet (Spanish-style pan omelet with boerewors sausage, goat cheese and roasted pimento pepper, B290), tuna tataki salad (B240), pasta (from B280) and pizza (from B290). Don’t miss their one-of-a-kind purple sweet potato cake, either.

Opens: 7am This unassuming, vintage nook focuses on all-day breakfast, with highlights like tuna melt (B300) and egg with chorizo (B260). The Tiny Cup Breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, salad and coffee or tea (B420) is very serviceable, too. 411/2 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), between soi 21 and 23, 02-712-5112. Open daily 7am-6pm. BTS Thong Lo

G/F, 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok, 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-079-7133. Open daily 6am-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong

HOLEY ARTISAN BAKERY Opens: 7am Grab your morning bread fix at the two branches of this early-rising bakery where the bread and pastries are made from scratch, highlighting the use of unbleached flour, house-made sourdough, glaze and frosting. Don’t miss the Phet Mak Mak sourdough (kalamata olives, sharp cheddar and pickled jalapenos, B250) or the the NYP sandwich (Sloane’s beef pastrami, whole grain mustard, pickles and cheddar cheese, B400). The bakery also serves coffee (from B80) and cold-pressed juice (B100). 245/12 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 091-7201074. Open daily 7am-6pm. MRT Sukhumvit Brought to you by The Coffee Club

THE COFFEE CLUB Opens: 7am One of Bangkok’s most ubiquitous coffee, breakfast and all-around restaurant brands has gone all-in on breakfast with its new menu packed with homey, comfort food you can grab and go or enjoy in house. If you are an early riser and want to sit in, grab dishes like eggs Benedict (from B280), bacon cheese omelet (B260), blueberry pancakes (B250), smashed avocado on toast (from B260) with one free coffee, tea or juice (there are 13 options total) on the house for early risers who order before 11am. It’s not just Western bites though, the deal extends to all breakfast items (congee, boiled rice with prawns, boiled rice with stewed pork, Thai baked eggs), including the new khao tom sets, which come with a spread of delicious morning flavors that you mix and match (one boiled rice with four side dishes from 15 different options, B195). There are

THE COFFEE CLUB locations pretty much everywhere at this point, so early risers who hate doing the dishes take note. Locations across Bangkok. Open daily 7am-9pm. For more information visit, https://thecoffeeclub. co.th/

AKART DAY Opens: 7am Taking over the well-preserved 90-year-old wooden house once belonging to Coffee Craftsman, this early-opening cafe is all about caffeinated specialties like Happy Day (B200), coffee with candle-smoked coconut milk, along with the Super Star All-day Breakfast (homemade toast with ham and cheese served with sausages and vegetables, B350). Save room for some carrot cake (B145). Yarden, 30 Yen Akart Rd., 02-2490182. Open daily 7am-7pm

B e c a u s e b re a k fa st i s essential, get a head start to your day with a great meal! THE COFFEE CLUB welcoming staff serves h i g h - q u a l i t y, f re s h l ycooked breakfast dishes each day. Your morning meal will be more than perfect when it comes with great coffee–two things THE COFFEE CLUB team know and do so well. Also, THE COFFEE CLUB is the only cafe and restaurant that offers a complimentary cup of high-quality coffee when ordering from the breakfast before 11am! How can you miss this? If you want something a little more Thai to start the day, THE COFFEE CLUB’s new khao tom sets fit the bill. Each set for B195 gets you five dishes (one boiled rice or steamed rice, two veggie and egg dishes, and two spicy salad or pork dishes). Not enough? Add on whatever you what from the a la carte menu for just B49/59 per dish, all to enjoy solo, or over breakfast mingling with friends. All prices are subject to a 7% VAT and 10% service charge. For more information, visit https://thecoffeeclub. co.th/

hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Here’s what goes on at Phloen Chit’s lavish new spa WELLNESS

While the new Rosewood hotel’s Sense Spa might go in for the same “ancient Thai beauty rituals” and “lost remedies” as nearly all highend Bangkok wellness joints, they do so without resorting to a neo-Ayutthaya-meets-faux-colonial decorative snooze-fest. Walls sculpted in sand dune-like waves and lavish marble floors rippled in more veins than a bikini competitor set the scene for luxurious treatments. Should you opt for the “Extreme 360° Global Anti-Age Ritual” (B6,500), they’ll break out the EviDenS de Beaute, a French-Japanese hybrid brand whose heart-stoppingly expensive serums have the face-lift set going weak at the knees. During the 90-minute Thai massage (B3,800), hands well-practiced at finding just the right spot will cajole you into a jelly-like stupor, while the 90-minute full body herbal scrub will, they say, treat you to the same beauty ritual enjoyed by ladies-in-waiting in the Ayutthaya Court. Nice. In addition to five treatment rooms, the spa also features an in-house nail bar, a hair salon, and a lounge to unwind. Ask nicely and they’ll let you use the hotel’s ninth floor pool and sauna, too. 6/F, Rosewood, 1041/38 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-080-0089. Open daily 6am-10pm

NUMEROLOGY

Hyped about Oculus Quest? Here’s a VR headset for every budget. Google Cardboard B180

Gear VR (with controller) B3,990

Playstation VR (with camera) B12,490 (requires PS4)

Oculus Quest B19,900

HTC Vive B23,399 (requires high-end computer) Available at www.lazada.co.th

ShoppingNews-BK#764-14JUN2019-2.indd 10

LIFESTYLE

FASHION

TECH

02 Shop cool rainbow-

03 Revive the ’80s with

04 The flagship phone to

In celebration of Pride Month this June, hip multi-label concept store Another Story has decked out its space in a rainbow of colors. To go with the new look, they’re also stocking a wide array of cool new accessories, quirky home decor, chic apparel and playful gadgets. Keep an eye out for the unisex “I Love Boys” and “I Love Girls” T-shirts (B650), as well as rainbow-colored Another Story tote bags (B380)—part of the proceeds from these items will go to local non-profit LGBTIQ+ community Out BKK. 4/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138. Open daily 10am-10pm

Calling all Stranger Things fans! H&M has dropped its summer capsule collection inspired by the hit Netflix series, which should hit the spot for anyone baying for season three. The special collection comes ahead of the series’ return to the screen on Jul 4, and features a range of ‘80s-inspired unisex pieces based around the Hawkins community pool. Alongside retro-inspired apparel, fans will also be treated to cool and playful caps (B499), pool slides (B699), waist bags (B999) and even a lifeguard whistle (B399). Now available at selected H&M stores, including Siam Paragon.

themed products in H&M’s “Stranger Things” celebration of Pride Month summer collection

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

beat in 2019

What: OnePlus 7 Pro Price: From B24,990 Why? OnePlus has long been lauded for building top-notch smartphones at impressive price points. For a bit more money, the 7 Pro offers a bezel-less 6.67-inch screen that could easily challenge Samsung’s Galaxy S10 and Apple’s iPhone XS, and a 90 Hz AMOLED display that makes everything from tapping, swiping and scrolling to gaming feel much smoother. The 7 Pro also boasts a popup selfie cam, up to 12GB of RAM and a battery that goes from 0 to 50-percent in 20 minutes. Try www.jd.co.th

BARGAIN BUY IT KAWECO AL SPORT FOUNTAIN PEN Invest in a smart fountain pen to add to your stationery collection (B3,150).

BIN IT STRIPPER HEELS Four-inch stilettos that are elegant and chic ain’t hard to find. Get a pair.

UNIQLO LIFEWEAR SALE Get up to 70-percent off T-shirts, parkas, chinos, cardigans and more at selected Uniqlo stores (promotion runs ‘til stocks run out).

6/6/19 10:30 AM

hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

NIGHTLIFE

Celebrate pride month with this “tomboy” exhibition

DUBWAY SESSIONS Q-MASTAH New York-native DJ headlines a dub party with support from local talents Fiyah Burning, Olbi Iyah and Dragon. Jun 15, 9pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380. B350. WESTIN POOL PARTY Spend the afternoon partying or chilling by the pool before hitting the club at Levels for an after party. Jun 15, 1-9pm. The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-207-8000. B400 including free-flow from 1-2pm.

LOVE OUT LOUD Celebrate self-expression, queer history and belonging on the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall liberation with Groove DJ and Pangina Heals. Jun 19, 7pm. W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. B300 includes one drink.

ART

Cr. Derek Brown

For his latest exhibition, US photographer Derek Brown invited “toms”—Thailand’s masculine-presenting lesbian community— to sit for a series of intimate black-andwhite portraits. Shot at Brown’s Bangkok studio, Studio Soi Six, the exhibition features 65 subjects in closeup that aim to present another side to the tom community. Tomboy Bangkok opens at Silom’s art-space-slash-club Whiteline with a free party featuring music from tom DJ DJAFFECT. Jun 21; 21; 28, 7pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. Free.

NIGHTLIFE

06 Be charitable while drinking negronis at

this week-long event

The Bamboo Bar

Since launching in 2013, Negroni Week has grown into a worldwide week of negroni specials to raise money for various charities. This year the celebration of the bittersweet three-ingredient cocktail will be sure to see some of Bangkok’s bars getting in on the action. A launch party will take place at The Bamboo Bar at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Hotel on Jun 24, 8-10pm: entry by B1,000 donation. Be sure to hit up the closing party at House on Sathorn (Jun 30, 7-9pm), when your B1,000 entry donation will also get you free-flow Campari cocktails whipped up by guest bartenders. Stay tuned for more details. Jun 24-30. Various venues across Bangkok.

PRIDE MONTH CELEBRATION For pride month, Bangkok’s LGBT foundation Out BKK is collaborating with UNGlobe, GLIFAA and Equal AF for a rooftop celebration. Jun 26, 6pm. So Sofitel, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Free. CONTRA #ONLYTECHNO Nothing but techno beats by Derail-D at Thonglor’s quirky Japanese bar. Jun 29, 9pm. 12 x 12, 810/22 Thonglor Soi Thararom 2, 094-260-4713. Free before 11pm, B150 after.

LIVE MUSIC

ART

07 Rock out to psychedelic sounds at this

one-day music festival

Returning for the third time, Psych-Out Festival comes from the folk behind the popular Stone Free and Keep on the Grass gatherings. The one-day music festival invites 10 bands and one DJ to perform psychedelic, experimental and progressive rock sounds. Artists announced include Yellow Fang, Khana Bierbood, Dara Rasmi, Chladni Chandi and Ugly Mountain. Tickets are limited to 200, so be sure to secure yours quickly via their Facebook inbox (bit.ly/2WhRU6T). Jun 30, 3-11pm. Brownstone, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77. B600-800. Psych-Out Festival

LIVE MUSIC

CATCH SOME LIVE MUSIC FROM NEAR AND FAR

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PHUM VIPHURIT The local indie folk artist performs a 45-minute set of chart-topping tracks before joining in a fun Q&A session. Jun 15, 1.30pm. Jacqueline, Siri House, Soi Somkid. B650 (including one drink) via fb.com/sirihousebkk.

LUCY ROSE Concert organizer Medium Rare hosts the return of the English folk singer-songwriter known for collaborations with indie rock bands like Bombay Bicycle Club and Manic Street Preachers. She’ll perform songs from her albums Something’s Changing and No Words Left. Jun 16. Live Arena, 94, 23/92-94 RCA Rd., 098-974-6974. B750 via Ticketmelon.

JERRY PAPER The American singer-songwriter, who’s worked with the likes of Weyes Blood vocalist Charlotte Day Wilson and Mild High Club’s Alex Brettin, presents his playful electronic pop. Jun 21, 8:30pm. Goose Life Space, 12 Phahonyothin Rd. Early bird B890/ regular B1100 via Ticketmelon.

GINGER BULLET Thai jazz percussion group perform live with their handmade African drums, as well as trumpet and guitar. Jun 19, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B150. NEW SOUNDS OF SAIGON Three emerging groups from Vietnam make their Bangkok debut: Skeleton Goode (psych-pop); OPN AIR DRG MKT (psychedelic noise rock); and Green Means Go (live dub). Jun 21, 8pm. The Overstay, Charan Sanit Wong Soi 40, 064-723-4975. Free. POW! FEST #4 A one-day music festival featuring dream pop music from over 10 bands, headlined by Russia’s Motorama and Japan’s Bearwear, with support from local talents like Folk9, Anatomy Rabbit and Death Of Heather. Jun 15, 3pm. Rockademy, 120/8 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-261-3833. B700 via Ticketmelon.

TOOMTURN MOLAM GROUP Acoustic, instrumental early molam (Thai northeastern folk music), influenced by ‘60s-‘70s sounds. Jun 26, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B150

ART

FROM MONET TO KANDINSKY. VISIONS ALIVE A huge, immersive multimedia exhibition that showcases the works of 16 prolific artists including Monet , Kandinsky and van Gogh. Through Jun 16. 2/F, RCB Galleria, River City Bangkok, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24. B350 via Zipevent.

SAKON PROJECT An exhibition of oil paintings by Thai artist Sakon Phu-ngamdee. Through Jun 22. Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, 137-137/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-422-2092. Free. HOTEL ART FAIR 2019 Farmgroup’s annual event gathering some of the region’s top art galleries in a unique hotel setting. Participating galleries include Artist+Run, Chin’s Gallery, Kalwit Studio & Gallery, Korea Tomorrow, Subhashok the Arts Centre, La Lanta Fine Art and many more. Jun 2223, 11am. W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Free with registration.

WHISPER FROM THE PAST Thai artist Theerawat Nuchcharoenphol showcases paintings that represent Thai history. Through Jun 30. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama I Rd., 02-214-6630. 3S: SPECTACLE SUBCONSCIOUS SPONTANEOUS Three artists/lecturers from Srinakharinwirot University present their thoughts and feelings across three different styles of contemporary art. Jun 15-Jul 14. S.A.C. Subhashok The Arts Centre, 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5580 ext.401

OTHER FLOW OF PROGRESS Siwilai celebrates its fifth birthday with art installations, local craftspeople and a menu from the team behind Chiang Mai’s zero-waste Blackitch Artisan Kitchen. Through Jul 31, 10am. Siwilai, 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5809. Free. UNHCR CHARITY RUN 2019 A charity run offering five or 10 km distances, with all proceeds going to support refugees forced to flee from violence in their countries. Jun 16, 5am. United Nations, Rajadamnern Nok Rd. B550 via bit.ly/2WaCGWe

6/7/19 6:26 PM

travel | satun

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Panya Batik

Koh Tarutao

Going South The gateway to Thailand’s deep south is a lesser traveled, history-steeped gem. By Angela Symons Mu Ko Phetra National Park

ordered by jutting limestone mountain ranges and the Andaman Sea, Satun is one of Thailand’s most geologically diverse provinces. Thanks to its Muslim majority, Satun has a rich and diverse culture, though has largely avoided the religious and political unrest of neighboring states. Located on the Malay Peninsula, it tends to fall off the regular tourist trail due to its perceived inaccessibility, though in fact it is just over an hour’s drive from Hat Yai International Airport. The plus side to Satun’s relative obscurity is that it remains largely unscathed by tourist droves and is ripe with adventure.

Ancient Exploration

Island Hopping with History

Local Experiences

Satun is a haven for active vacationers, from exploring Satun Geopark, which gained UNESCO certification in 2018 for its geology, ecosystem and cultural diversity, to diving off the many islands dotted alongside the mainland.

Though Satun’s mainland beaches may not be plucked from a travel brochure, the province’s many beautiful islands more than make up for it. Koh Tarutao is one of the 51 islands established as part of Tarutao National Marine Park in the ‘70s. Now known for its nature trails, streams and diving, the island’s colorful history is charted in its compact museum.

With no shortage of spicy gaeng som and unusual sea grape dishes that are seldom found in Bangkok, you can’t visit Satun without indulging in a healthy dose of fresh seafood. For a feast with views overlooking Pak Bara Beach, grab a table at Rimle Kitchen (Pak Nam, La-ngu, 083195-7844).

Start with a kayaking trip through the heart of a limestone mountain at Tham Le Stegodon, a sea cave named for the 180-million-year-old Stegodon elephant fossil that was discovered there in 2008. The fossil is now on display at the nearby Satun Geopark Museum, alongside 450-million-year-old nautiloid (ancient squid) fossils, which are regarded as proof that the area was once all under ocean. Visit the cave during rainy season to see mini waterfalls throughout its four-kilometer-long route or in dry season to see the limestone rocks shimmering like glitter. A two-hour tour through the cave and the adjoining mangrove forest costs B300 per person— advance booking is necessary (084-858-5100). Once you’ve found your sea legs, take a boat trip to Prasat Hin Pun Yod. Located on Koh Khao Yai, this fortress-like limestone sinkhole can only be reached by kayaking through small rock archways. Once inside, you can marvel at the thousands of unique rock peak formations that surround it and, if the tide’s right, you might find a secluded beach inside. Come sunset, take a golden hour walk along the coastal Time Traveler’s Bridge. Hugging Khao To Ngai Fault Plane in Mu Ko Phetra National Park, it is named for its colorful quartz, limestone and red sandstone rock formations that date back between 444 and 545 million years.

WHERE TO STAY Located right next to the Time Traveler’s Bridge, Royal Hill Satun Hotel (092-746-7999) is well positioned for exploring Satun’s coastal area, with clean and simple rooms priced at around B1,800/night. If you’re headed to Koh Lipe, you can get a beach hut at Wapi Resort (089-4645854) for B2,000/night or a double room at the four-star Akira Lipe Resort (091-301-3010) from B5,100.

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Tham Le Stegodon

Tarutao was established a penal colony for political prisoners in the late 1930s, though a lack of supplies following World War II led inmates and officers to band together in savage pirate gangs, ransacking ships that were passing through to Penang and the Malacca Straits. Their reign of terror lasted three years before it was quashed in 1948 by British controlled Malaya and the Thai government, with the prison disbanded soon after. Most famous of the islands is the neighboring Koh Lipe with its azure waters, protected coral reefs, powdery white sands and chao leh (sea gypsy) population. In the lead up to the Anglo-Siamese Treaty of 1909, the previously uninhabited island was gifted to the chao leh, who were all then given the surname Hantale (“bravery at sea”)—an act that is said to have strategically secured Lipe as part of Siam, rather than it being relinquished to British-controlled Malaya.

For something sweeter, green fingers can stop by Chim Melon Farm (79/416 Thung Wa Rd., 081-839-8022) to discover the secrets of hydroponics while sipping on melon coffee, or even melon wine. For beautiful batik sarongs and clothing that forgo the typical flowers and seahorses in favor of Satun-referencing nautiloids and trilobites (ancient sea creatures), head to Panya Batik (La-Ngu, 081-093-4222). Here, you can also try your hand at tie-dye using natural colors—red from the iron in the limestone, brown from mangrove tree bark, yellow from the local mud.

Couples can take a day trip to the tiny Koh Khai to pass through its iconic rock archway—an act that is said to result in marriage. The island is named for the eggs that turtles lay on its pristine sands each year. You can also take a direct ferry service to Langkawi, Malaysia, departing from both Koh Lipe and Tammalang Pier in Satun (from B300 per person one-way).

WHEN TO VISIT In February each year, Satun International Kite Festival sees over 100 kiting teams compete in categories of creativity, beauty, size and height. Alternatively, visit Koh Lipe during the full moon in late May or early June and late October or early November for a glimpse of the traditional Loy Rua festival, where chao leh locals send an elaborately painted boat out to sea, loaded with offerings,

hair and nail clippings. The ritual aims to rid them of bad fortune and festivities last for three days. The lunar Chinese Vegetarian Festival usually falls in October each year, and brings with it fire-walking ceremonies and dragon parades. Chak Phra Festival also occurs in October and sees extravagant floats containing Buddha images paraded through the streets.

6/7/19 6:28 PM

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

KANCHANABURI

09 Bask in River Kwai

views at this stylish floating resort

Koh Yao Noi’s new glampsite provides next-level luxury

PHANG NGA

Koh Yao Noi, a charming and little-developed island between Krabi and Phuket, is now home to 9 Hornbills (9hornbills.com), a sumptuous glamping retreat whose giant safari-style tent villas come in at 108 sq meters—and that’s before you factor in the 108-sq-meter private garden and 28-square-meter swimming pool, price starts at B7,420 per night. The facilities include big four-poster beds, open-air rain showers, clawfoot bathtubs, minibars and reading areas. You can head down to the property’s private beach for some kayaking and paddle boarding, sign up for their yoga and meditation classes, or get your adrenaline pumping with some snorkeling, diving and cliff climbing on their three-hour boat trip to nearby islands.

TravelNews-BK#764-14JUNE2019.indd 15

Floating on the water, The Tryst River Kwai (www.fb.com/thetrystriverkwai) is here just in time for rainy season and it’s already almost booked out. The cabin-like rooms combine modest wood furnishings with concrete, glass and wood plank walls—check into the Panoramic River Scene floating house (from B3,000/night) for 180-degree floor-to-ceiling windows facing out onto the river and the surrounding tropical greenery, as well as a romantic glass walled bathroom. If you’re still finding your sea legs, you can opt for the Panoramic Pool Garden or Pool Garden rooms (both from B3,000/night), which are firmly anchored on dry land and come with mini outdoor pools. When hunger strikes, you can fire up a barbecue or head to the resort’s airy industrial glasshouse restaurant for Thai comfort food and Western fusion dishes.

CHONBURI

KRABI

10 Stop by this all-in-one

11 Maya Bay to remain

cafe before heading to Koh Larn

closed for two more years

Next time you’re waiting for the boat to Koh Larn, you can chill out at Anytime Cafe (www.fb.com/anytimepattaya). Located right in front of Bali Hai Pier, the spacious two-story eatery serves a dizzying array of Western and Thai cuisine. Enjoy a breakfast of scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, tuna, salsa and potato (B299), an Angus beef tenderloin linguine with basil oil (B399) for lunch, and bingsu (B100-B200) for dessert. They even offer high tea sets (B399-B699) and Belgium-imported chocolate fondue (B399). Drinks range from coffee to wine by the glass (B180).

It has been two decades since The Beach came out, and two decades since tourists began inundating the stunning Krabi beach where it was filmed, Maya Bay—with devastating consequences for its marine ecosystem. Following promising but slow signs of recovery for the area’s coral reefs and marine life since its closure one year ago, the Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation (DNP) has announced an extension on Maya Bay’s closure until mid-2020, according to the Bangkok Post. A new e-ticket system will be put in place when the park reopens, limiting visitor numbers to 2,400 per day during peak season.

6/6/19 10:26 AM

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

HOT OF THE PASS

“Migrationology” YouTube sensation to open restaurant in Bangkok

OUTNUMBERED After thousands of failed booking attempts by Bangkokians hungry to try Mahasan Burnt and Bowl’s pocket-friendly steaks, the owners of Charoenkrung’s hip four-table steakhouse have announced they will be closing in June to relocate to a new, secret location, set to open in August. Watch this space. PHED PHED

Spicy Thai food-loving blogger and YouTube star Mark Wiens is set to enter the restaurant business with an opening called Phed Mark. Wiens, who is behind the Migrationology and Eating Thai Food websites, has been professionally documenting his love of food and travel worldwide since 2009 and has accumulated over 770,000 followers on Instagram alone and over four-million subscribers on his YouTube channel. He is well known for videoing and editing all of his food adventures and has also published an ebook, Eating Thai Food Guide. He now calls Bangkok home with his wife. Full details remain under wraps, but a new Instagram account suggests the restaurant will be located near BTS Ekkamai station and will specialize in pad kaprao (Thai basil stir fry). We have a feeling the food will be spicy. Phed Mark is expected to open in the next couple of months.

SWEET LIFE

OOH, CHUNKY

FROM PARIS WITH LOVE

13 Go full chocoholic at this indulgent new buffet

14 Burgers get extravagant Thai twists on Soi 23

15 This pop-up is a heaven of breads and pastries

Release your inner child at the Sukhothai hotel’s brand new chocolate buffet, a sweet-focused brunch where you can spend three whole hours on a sugar rush rampage. Trust a Swiss chocolatier to be behind the endeavor; chef Laurent Ganguillet has 27 years in the business and presides over a feast of macaroons, pastries, cakes and, our favorites, the crispy churros and sticky date toffee pudding. Take a savory break with a trip to their blini, sandwich or sushi stations. The buffet is available at Lobby Salon from Fri-Sun, 2pm-5pm, and is priced at B990 per person. Lobby Salon, The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888

If you thought Chunky’s decadent burgers couldn’t get more OTT, then think again. Their new line-up of patties feature tasty Thai twists—a fried chicken cutlet slathered in ultra rich salted egg-cheese sauce in a soft, house-made potato bun (B340); a palo pulled pork (B270) burger. Traditionalists can take a small step out of their comfort zone with a juicy dry-age beef patty topped with nam prik ong-inspired spicy tomato-bacon jam (B330), while barbecue fiends will meet their match in the satay burger (B280). They’ve even given the minimal white space a touch up, extending the dining area to upstairs. 110/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 091-742-4094

Don’t miss French pastry chef Rodolphe Landemaine’s pop-up at Playground Bakery. Until the end of August, you’ll find French breads and viennoiserie, from the photogenic striped croissants in beetroot, cacao or lemon meringue flavor (B100), to fluffy brioche in orange, chocolate and even vegan options (B80). He has also created a special menu for 25 Degrees burger bar, featuring beetroot, chocolate and vegan brioche buns, as well as epic baguettes like American steak topped with French fries (B390). Chef Rodolphe’s Maison Landemaine chain boasts 15 shops in France and two in Tokyo. Playground, M,G/F Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-352-4000

SAKE AND SWEETS Between Jun 19-22, pastry mastermind and Iron Chef Thailand champion Jason Licker will visit Jua for Flour + Rice, a pop-up featuring a special dessert menu (B350 each), with artisanal sake pairing led by Japanese beverage specialist Elliot Faber on Jun 21-22.

SURAWONG SPICE Bangkok’s home of unapologetically southern Thai food, Khua Kling Pak Sod, has opened a fifth branch, this time on the second floor of Red Planet Bangkok Surawong hotel. If you can handle the heat, drop by for a taste of their signature khua kling moo sab (spicy southern dry curry with minced pork, B180).

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

NEW_F&BNews-BK#764-14JUN2019-2.indd 14

“Not sure about celebrity chefs/youtube foodies and their restaurants”

“I had the best burger at Little Market! I demand a recount!”

- FB USER SUPONG JIP NINSUVANNAKUL ON YOUTUBE INFLUENCER MARK WIENS’ UPCOMING RESTAURANT OPENING.

- FB USER JASON LICKER ON BK’S MUST-TRY BURGERS ROUND-UP.

“The author certainly hasn’t tried Artisan Craft Burgers” - FB USER NACHA PAIR CHOTITAWAN ON BK’S MUSTTRY BURGERS ROUND-UP.

6/7/19 6:31 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

5 restaurants serving fresh seafood Fresh oysters and succulent crab, anyone?

The Dock

Bangkok Sea View

Crab and Claw

Savoey

Seafood Mahanakorn

The Dock

Crab and Claw

Bangkok Sea View

Savoey

Along with a huge list of oysters charting such prestigious names as Tsarskaya, Gillardeau, Belon, and Fine de Claire, you will also find a whole list of other premium seafood at this elegant market-style restaurant. Signature dishes include red king crab au gratin (baked red king crab with grated parmesan and cream, B1,999) and Tsar of Ora King salmon a la minute (B550). The food menu suggests wines to pair with each dish, or you can go for a small bottle of Singha beer (B90++) for a more chill vibe.

This one's all about New England-style seafood. Don your bib and prepare to get your hands dirty by hammering, cracking and digging into the likes of whole Maine lobster and whole crabs, or keep it neat with lobster thermidor (B950), crab melt rolls (chilled peekytoe crab on a bun, B550), and oysters Rockefeller (B420). There are p l e n t y m o re oyste r s to choose from, of which we recommend the clean and smooth big Irish premium (B170/piece), which go great with a cold bottle of Singha beer (B150).

Bangkok Sea View requires that you get a long-tail boat (B50 for adults/B20 for kids) from a pier on Rama 2 to go dine in the middle of the Gulf of Thailand. Food is mostly s e a f o o d l i ke t a l a y p a o (a platter of grilled prawns, crabs, cockles, mussels, and squid, B550), pu talay pad pongaree (stir-fried sea crab in yellow curry paste, B550), and yam chakram (sea blite spicy salad with prawns, B150). We recommend you drop by in time for sunset to make the most of the view as you kick back with a chilled Singha beer (B120).

1/F, Maze Thonglor, 148 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-381-5373/4 Open Mon-Thu 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight. BTS Thong Lo

G/F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 061-912-3145. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

74/3 Moo 9, Bangkhuntien Rd., Thakam, 02-408-4008. Open daily 10am-9pm

Located at Tha Maharaj, Savoey offers panoramic views over the Chao Phraya River from its breezy al fresco te r ra ce — h e a d t h e re fo r sundown when the nearby Wat Rakhang glistens with orange hues. The menu here bounces between Thai comfort food, Chinese staples, and a huge range of fresh seafood—order the firm and juicy massive grilled river prawn (B1,000/each), which comes with zesty nam jim seafood dip. Their drinks selection ranges from traditional o-liang (Thai iced coffee, B50) and healthy kale frappes (B60) to beers like Singha (B120/bottle).

Brought to you by Singha food

2/F, Tha Maharaj, 02-024-1317

Seafood Mahanakorn Operated by one of Thailand’s biggest seafood providers, Thammachart Seafood, this restaurant serves up Thai dishes and fresh seafood. Highlights include the oyster platter (three Surat Thani oysters served with fried shallots, chili paste, lime, and nam jim seafood dip, B385), grilled river prawns (B580/three prawns), and stir-fried crab meat with yellow chili (B160). Wash it down with Singha beer on draught, which is served in three sizes: glass (B95), mug (B200), and 1.5 liter tower (B550). G/F The Market, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-209-5209. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

ADVERTISE IN

BEST EATS BK’s guide to the absolute best comfort dishes in Bangkok —6th Edition.

Aesop’s

Aesop’s HHHH Greek. 120 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1, 062-567-7751. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight; Sun noon-11pm. BB

Before this Sydney-born restaurant descended on Sala Daeng with its ouzo-fueled party atmosphere, Greek cuisine wasn’t much of a talking point in Bangkok. That’s all changed now thanks to Aesop’s in-your-face brand of communal dining. The mess-hall like venue is abuzz with excitement, as energetic waiters guide customers to close-set wooden pew seating, ripe for big gatherings of friends, while neon lights play on the dark blue stucco walls and kitschy ‘80s hits blare from speakers. The Deli Tray’s (B490) assortment of dips—hummus, taramasalata (fish roe with lemon and garlic), tzatziki (yogurt, garlic, lemon and mint)—salads and mezze is the way to get stuck in. Be sure to order a helping of crispy, rotund falafel balls (B240), whose cracker-like crusts are prime dipping material. Use the billowy, fresh-baked pita bread (B100) to mop up the tomato-ouzo sauce that tops the prawn saganaki (B360), which hums with fresh herbs and spices and is completed by a big slab of feta

Plu HHH Thai/Burmese. 3 Soi Phra Phinit, 062-642-2222. Open daily 11:30-2pm; 5pm-midnight. BBB F

• Exclusive distribution to over 350 high traffic venues. • More than 20,000 online downloads.

30% discount

for early bird bookings before Jun 30, 2019

FOR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CALL 02-624-9696 (SALES DEPT) OR EMAIL ADVERTISING@ASIA-CITY.CO.TH

After dabbling in everything from European fine dining to dim sum, restaurant powerhouse Water Library returns to its owner’s Burmese and Thai roots in a charming, converted, standalone house. Tucked down a quiet Sathorn soi, the restaurant is a busy tropical-colonial mix of Sino-Portuguese tiles and fern patterns, with private dining rooms and an impressive outdoor deck geared up for big groups—though on our visit, a subdued Sunday night, we were only joined by two other diners. The lengthy menu invites sharing, which makes ordering tricky for smaller parties; when asked for assistance, the attentive and well-intentioned staff knee-jerked to the recommended page, rather than considering our other orders. A similar lack of forethought came when we ordered a dish only to be given it in complimentary amuse bouche form moments later—a lovely gesture, but why didn’t they mention it? Plu still also falls foul of timidity on the spice—a shame when you’re forking out well over the norm on a nicely thick but too mild crab curry (we’d give it one “chili,” the menu promises two; B590). Stray into less familiar territory and you’ll be rewarded with the explosively sweet-salty Burmese-style

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

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cheese. Bold in flavor but oh-so-tender, the hefty eight-hour lamb shoulder (B1,450 for 250g) is not to be missed, though the rich moussaka (B420) makes a fierce rival. Quench your thirst with an aromatic Apollo cocktail (B330), whose creamy texture comes from a blend of roasted rice, Greek mountain tea, whiskey, lime bitters and egg white, topped with an olfactory sprig of smoking rosemary. Aesop’s punchy sangria (B330)—a mix of tsipouro (a powerful Greek pomace brandy), Pimm’s, rose wine and fresh fruits—will encourage you to accept the hosts’ invite to the “dance floor,” where strangers form a side-hugging line and weave around the tables to the beat of Zorba’s Dance. All that will rile you up for some clay plate smashing, while yelling out “opa!”—a Greek emotional expression reserved for celebrations. It’s a lot of fun, even if you probably wouldn’t want to bump and grind with random people every night. The real question is: does Aesop’s slight price hike on Bangkok’s typical Middle Eastern restaurants (with whom its offerings are most aligned) justify itself in the detail, produce and flavor? We’d say so, and then some. The food packs a punch, and the pre- and post-dinner ouzo shots are enough to have us make a fool of ourselves on the dancefloor from time to time.

tea leaf salad (B150)—so good it could make us swear off somtum—and sumptuous creeping heat in the crispy smoked duck breast with roasted dried chilis (B220). The impressive balance of flavors doesn’t carry over to the recommended but rather nondescript stir-fried prawns with crunchy sataw beans, sweet pickled garlic and glass noodles (B280), or the equally unmemorable stir-fried cowslip creeper flower (B150). Like many things, the cocktails are not bad—in fact the light and refreshing Salty Riddle (Siam fragrance, pineapple, salted aromatic bitters and ginger beer, B320) is very tasty—they just won’t knock your socks off. With a wine importer at the helm, you could happily stick to the thoughtful list of bottles from the in-house cellar (from just B990 for a French Chardonnay). Desserts are Plu on the more inventive and elaborate end of the scale. A gorgeous snow globe-like terrarium houses the pickled guava agar (B190) with sour yogurt sorbet, crunchy fresh guava, sweet meringue and tart but sugary plum granita—flavors that are perhaps too bold to be eaten in unison but show elements of genius. The out-there pumpkin crème brulee (B190) is a deliciously sweet and velvety lesson in how to toy with a classic. Come in a big group and order well and Plu makes for an impressive dining experience that combines a special setting with some new and exciting flavors.

Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000 Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

B BB BBB BBBB

Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

6/7/19 6:34 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

NEW EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF, NEW CHOCOLATE BARS & NEW PATISSERIE CREATIONS AT THE CHOCOLATE BOUTIQUE Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok's new Executive Pastry Chef Christoph Widmer is delighted to present one of his most exciting creations, a special set of 70% dark chocolate bars, using sustainable and locally sourced cocoa beans from Chiang Mai, Chantaburi, Prachuap Khiri Khan and Chumphon together with USDA-certified organic sugar. Rich with powerful antioxidants, polyphenols and flavanols, this chocolate bar set is now available at the Chocolate Boutique along with his irresistible selection of all-new patisserie. Price starts from THB 70 net per piece. Visit us today to satisfy your sweet-tooth. For more information or reservations, please call 0 2236 9952 or email restaurants.slbk@shangri-la.com

We create brand stories with influence studio.asia-city.com

P.17 Shangri-La.indd 17

Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 www.shangri-la.com/bangkok shangrilabkk

6/6/19 8:12 PM

food & drink | open doors

16 Bambino is not just about epic wagyu sandos The buzz: This modern izakaya has been turning heads thanks to its affordable take on the internet-famous wagyu sando, though you’ll also discover Japanese street-food faves with ingenious Chinese and Korean twists. The decor: Hidden within a three-story building on a small residential street with no signage, the restaurant can be tricky to find. On entering, it feels like you’re walking into a tiny cave, with cream and earth walls, curved lines and soft light fixtures setting a warm and inviting tone. Upbeat music plays in the background, forgoing the Japanese tunes typical to izakayas. The food: With the help of Bunker’s former chef Arnie Marcella, a top-notch wagyu sando (B550) is created using panko-coated Australian wagyu striploin, sandwiched between light and airy, toasted milk-butter bread with house-made tomato jam. They also do a pork neck cutlet sando (B400)—though less juicy, it is extra tender. The bar bites and large plates encourage sharing and come in exciting flavor combinations, like the farfalle pasta served in creamy

NEW_New+Noted-BK#764-14JUNE2019.indd 18

cashew-miso sauce with smoky grilled mushrooms (B330) or eggplant dengaku with scallops glazed generously in a flavorful sweet sauce (B220). The drink: Asahi (B180) is the only beer on offer, allowing their exciting flavored highballs to take precedence—for something light and refreshing, try the cooling cucumber and elderflower (B280), or go for the not-too-sweet vanilla cheesecake (B260). Other cocktails to try include the General Farmer (B340), with rosemary-infused vodka, apricot liqueur, homemade raisin syrup and lemon, or the Maxi Miner (B340), with toasted pineapple-infused tequila, pimento dram, lemongrass cordial, lime juice and ginger ale. Also available are Ozeki Silver sake (B250) and house wine by the glass (B280). Why we’d come back: The wagyu sando may have drawn us in, but the cheerful vibe, friendly service and inventive menu will bring us back for more. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time. Kankanok Wichiantanon

1045/4 Nai Loet Rd., 097-028-1493. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

6/7/19 7:13 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Chu

TABLE TALK

NEW AND NOTED

17 This cool Chinese restaurant hides secrets upstairs

18 Thonglor’s communal F&B garden is made for day drinking

19 Kick back at Sanam Pao’s easy-going bar

From outside, you’d easily mistake Chu (1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 061-0565636) for just another mom-and-pop Chinese restaurant. Head upstairs and you’ll discover an extravagant dining space where you can fill up on Chinese comfort dishes like bak kut teh served with patongo (B280) and stir-fried pig’s stomach with pickled mustard greens (B140). A glass wall separates the dining area from a neon lit bar that feels as if it’s been plucked straight out of Hong Kong. On-theme cocktails include the Train To 2046 (B360) with Chinese flower-sous-vide rum, lemon and grapefruit bitters and bak kut teh syrup—it might sound weird but it tastes good, trust us.

The 51 Tasty Moments (64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 092-552-5012) comprises a spacious, communal lawn strewn with bean bags and a living room-like indoor space, with art and furniture for sale. The various F&B vendors sell everything from pomelo prawn salad (B180) and free-range roasted chicken (B590 for half; B990 for whole) from Khao Yai, to fusion khao soi pork pasta (B170). Visit TueSun from 6:30-8:30pm when freeflow wine costs just B480; outside of those times, bottles like the 2016 Ave de Presa Castilla de Mancha, Spain start at B700/bottle, or B160/ glass. Local beers range from B90240 with cocktails B210-260.

Cutesy, quirky Ari style has crept ever-so-slightly towards Sukhumvit with Sunray (226/8 Phahon Yothin Rd., 080-111-1333), a bright and airy cocktail bar overlooking the The Royal Horse Guard Riding Club in Sanam Pao. Boasting a pastel, almost Wes Anderson-like color palette, accentuated by vintage furnishings and big windows, the bar serves up easy-drinking cocktails like Tiki Me Please (B280), a refreshing blend of rum, passionfruit and cranberry. Step things up with the Bitterpine (B300), combining smoked whiskey, Campari, sweet vermouth and pineapple to cut through all the heaviness. Dishes like the grilled beef salad (B299) or the braised pork with rice (B180) make hefty drinking snacks.

NEW_New+Noted-BK#764-14JUNE2019_01.indd 19

Cagette Canteen & Deli 15 Yen Akat Rd., 02-249-1684. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-10:30pm Find your way to Cagette Canteen and Deli for a bounty of fresh seafood, stinky cheeses and French comfort dishes. The downstairs restaurant lists simple dishes on a chalkboard (such as escargots de Bourgogne and mixed platters of imported seafood) while the deli above exhibits all the usual charcuterie, cheeses and jarred things. Still not full? Try the perfectly seasoned beef tartare.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending via Citi credit card and get a complimentary Burgandy Snails valued THB 320 or Get 15% discount when spending THB 5,000 or more /sales slip 01 Jun ’19 – 31 May ’20

6/10/19 11:49 AM

Nan Bei

TABLE TALK

DEAN & DELUCA 2/F Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5956. Open daily 10am-10pm. This upscale restaurant/café is a favorite among welldressed executives and foodies looking to enjoy premium treats and fresh food across all of its locations in Bangkok and Thailand. Walk through the spacious and modern interior to discover a selection of authentic international dishes from pastas and sandwiches to New York-style pizza and fancy desserts made daily, along with specially selected local and imported gourmet retail items.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 5% discount when spending THB 300 or more / sales slip or get 10% discount when spending THB 600 or more /sales slip 01 Jun ’19 – 31 May ’20

NEW_New+Noted-BK#764-14JUNE2019_01.indd 20

Co-incidence Process Coffee

NEW AND NOTED

20 The Chinese fine-dining scene's youthful newcomer

21 Soi Texas has a striking new hipster dessert shop

22 Fuel up at Sukhumvit Soi 49’s hipster coffee-to-go bar

Part of the Rosewood Bangkok, Nan Bei (19/F, Rosewood, 1041/38 Phloen Chit Rd., 020-800-088) serves nothern and southern Chinese cuisine in a dazzling Art Deco setting. A confluence of cerulean, emerald, dark wood, black marble and leather ties together the lounge, bar, private dining rooms and compact balcony with views over Sukhumvit. Follow the rich Beijingese ge da tang (B360) with authentic Peking duck (B1,900), carved tableside and served three ways as skin, pancakes and stir-fry or soup. Finish with the mango pomelo sago (B290).

Situated on Chinatown’s hip Soi Nana, Ba Hao has been delighting us with creative Chinese-themed cocktails for two years. Now, a little sister has been born and this time it’s all about sweet stuff. Located on Soi Texas, Ba Hao Tian Mi (8 Phadung Dao Rd., 097-995-4543) is small but striking, with its shimmering dark green scaled facade dominated by a circular granite entranceway, topped off with their signature neon signage. Inside, just a handful of tall wooden stools line the U-shaped light gray counter, which doles out sugar in the form of cooling rambutan granita puddings (B148) and bubble milk tea (B98).

The work of a small group of Thai designers, Co-incidence Process Coffee (1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 063425-6018) is a minimalist, curvededged coffee counter nestled right at the entranceway to the newly opened Chu Chinese restaurant. Their specialty house blend uses coffee beans from Chiang Rai and Laos and features in a down-the-line menu of espresso, Americano, cappuccino, latte, mocha, piccolo (all B80) and cold brew (B100). In line with their minimalist leanings, the closest you’ll get to a caramel lava mint choco bubble drink is their simple iced chocolate (B100). Take a seat at one of the two stools lining the light gray frontage as you wait.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 20% discount on food & beverages. 01Jun ’19 – 31Dec ’19

6/10/19 11:49 AM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Who makes the best… butter chicken?

Cr. Indian Hut

It’s the best-loved of all Indian dishes, even when it’s not masquerading under the name “butter chicken.” Murgh makhani, chooza khas makhani, and good ol’ chicken tikka masala—we know there are differences, but they all share a gheerich, tomato-based gravy and (you hope) a shedload of spices, onion and—sometimes—cream. We blind tested Bangkok’s big guns. Here are our top five. By BK Staff

Winner!

1. Rang Mahal

Who: Sukhumvit’s sky-high Indian fine-dining perch is a decadent blend of OTT plasterwork and regal fabrics. Verdict: Take us to the kitchen and bathe us in the gravy. Its rich, complex layers of spice, curry leaves, caramelized onion, chili and coriander seed make every other dish taste juvenile. This is how things should be done. On the menu: Murgh Makhanwala (B490) 26/F, Rembrandt Hotel, 26 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7050. Open daily 5pm-midnight; Sun 11am-2:30pm

2. Royal India

Who: Though the cramped tables and harsh lighting are hardly inviting, for years this shop-house has been serving some of Bangkok’s most consistently delicious, grandmother-style northern Indian food. Verdict: A rustic potion of coarsely ground delights. Big chunks of juicy, smoky chicken poke through a murky swamp of oil and spice and texture and happiness. While the complexity of flavors is no Rang Mahal, we’d happily come back for seconds. On the menu: Butter Chicken (B205) 392/1 Chakkaphet Rd., 02-221-6565. Open daily 10am-10pm

3. Maya

4. Mrs. Balbir's

5. Indian Hut

Who: Perhaps Bangkok’s most elevated Indian restaurant sits in a striking cantilevered structure on the 29th floor of the Holiday Inn. Verdict: Truly an indulgent bowl—velvety, smooth and robust. If your idea of curry nirvana demands double the cream and double the ghee of an average adult’s weekly safe dosage, then this is the bowl for you. They didn’t go light on the spices, either. On the menu: Chooza Khas Makhani (B454)

Who: Founded in 1975, the long-established Indian restaurant has over nine branches across the city. Verdict: Smoky, pungent, almost vinegary, but with the powerful flavor you expect from that luscious dark brown color. We get the sense these might not be the freshest spices—a bit powdery? Yes. Flavors past their prime? We’d say so—but there’s a deep intensity that the dishes to follow simply don’t match. On the Menu: Chicken Tikka Masala (B195)

Who: Open since 1995, Surawong’s beloved home of tufted velvet and gilt-frame pictures where both locals and tourists alike flock for north Indian-hailing specials. Verdict: We can hear the purists sharpening their pitchforks. This here is your classic, pink, sweet, uncomplicated British-style chicken tikka masala. It’s a soup of PG-13 creaminess and spice that, even if not even remotely authentic, is tasty. And that chicken is excellently smoky. On the menu: Murgh Makhani (B325)

155/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1, 02-651-0498. Open Tue-Sun 11am11pm. Plus nine other branches

414-420 Surawong Rd., 02-2365672-3. Open daily 11am-11pm

29/F, Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4888. Open daily 6pm-1am

Read the full list of Bangkok's best butter chicken at bit.ly/2EQOfHE

NEW_New+Noted-BK#764-14JUNE2019.indd 21

6/7/19 7:15 PM

nightlife | pride month

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Come Through! Chosen in commemoration of New York’s Stonewall riots, June is now internationally recognized as LGBT Pride Month. Though Bangkok is still waiting on its own pride parade, these bars, clubs and parties have secured our city as Southeast Asia’s gay party hub. by Kawee Jarach

DJ Station

Fake Club

The Expresso

How it looks: On weekends, taBK Pick! bles are removed to create an open, disco light-filled dance floor, flanked by a DJ booth and a bar crowned by crystal chandeliers. What will get you drunk: The B400 entry fee gets you two drink coupons to use on the soi. After that, go for basic spirit mixers (B150), buckets (B450) and whiskey bottles (from B1,000). What you’ll be dancing to: Energizing mainstream Western, K-pop and Thai pop hits. Who you’ll end up in bed with: Slightly older twink Thais or beach bod-ready holiday makers. Silom Soi 2, opposite DJ Station. Open daily 10pm-2am. BTS Sala Daeng

How it looks: The definitive grand dame of gay clubbing conceals her bare bones setup with disco balls and laser beams, while a stage beckons shirtless revelers prior to the midnight drag show. The upper two floors are noticeably more cruise-y and boozy. What will get you drunk: Your drink coupons will be valid here, while prices match that of The Expresso. What you’ll be dancing to: Mostly electro-dance music, if you’re lucky enough to find space amid the weekend crowds. Who you’ll end up in bed with: Hyped up Asian and Western party-goers who’ve had a few too many while waiting for the drag show to begin.

What’s your craziest night out in a Bangkok gay bar?

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How it looks: This 30-year-old bar adopts a classic New York look. People watch from the front terrace, head to the first floor for Thai and Western cuisine, or up one more for karaoke. What will get you drunk: Happy hour (6-8pm and midnight-late) bargains—house spirit mixers (B69), beer (B90) and cocktails (B120). What you’ll be dancing to: Mainly electro-dance and house music, though you’re more likely to spend your time drinking and checking out guys. Who you’ll end up in bed with: Older Europeans or Americans who prefer to drink and chat, maybe hitting the dance floor after they get a little tipsy. Silom Soi 4, 02-234-3279. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Sala Daeng

DJ Station

Silom Soi 2, 02-266-4029. Open daily 10pm2am. BTS Sala Daeng

Telephone Pub

Fake Club the Next Gen How it looks: A towering, neon-lit entrance makes way for opulent decor, tacky disco balls and a huge dance floor cut down the middle by a catwalk, surrounded by elevated cylindrical stages for male model shows. What will get you drunk: Bell’s (B800-900), Johnny Walker Red (B1,800) or Black Label (B2,000). What you’ll be dancing to: K-pop, trance, EDM, house and live music on world-class audio equipment. Who you’ll end up in bed with: Thai/Asian twinks who seem to know all the moves to Blackpink’s “Kill This Love,” or that cute boy who brought his one best girl friend. 222/32, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 081-390-8888. Open daily 9pm-3am. MRT Phra Ram 9

PATTANAGORN ADIREKKIAT, FREELANCE FILMMAKER/ PHOTOGRAPHER, 26 “Once, I was at a bar and this one guy was dancing wildly and taking up all the space. I got irritated and started dancing back in retaliation. Things got a bit out of hand and I almost got into a fight.”

The Stranger Bar (House of Drag Queens) How it looks: This tiny madhouse of drag hosts feisty shows that see queens sliding the bannister from the glittery mezzanine to the packed seating area below (from around 11pm each night). It’s no library, but the drag queens will read you to filth. What will get you drunk: Cheeky themed cocktails (B280) and shots (B120) like Golden Shower or Sperm. What you’ll be dancing to: Though it’s more of a sit-down bar, classic chart tunes and epic lip syncs will bring you to your feet. Who you’ll end up in bed with: A younger, millenial gay man or someone looking for holiday romance. Silom Soi 4, 02-632-9425. Open daily 5:30pm2am. BTS Sala Daeng

Soi Twilight How it looks: A brightly-lit street swarming with promoters trying to persuade you to enter their bars with drink specials, along with seductively-dressed men sitting at the front to lure you in. Approach with caution. What will get you drunk: Play the various drink specials in your favor, else it can get pricey. What you’ll be dancing to: Depends on the bar, but you’re more likely to have someone dancing for you than be dancing yourself. Who you’ll end up in bed with: A guy who you think is attractive enough to “take out” for the rest of the night (remember: safety first).

Bangkok’s Best Gay Nights

SING SING THEATER Sukhumvit’s home of Hollywood-esque Chinoiserie has recently launched “Born This Way,” a Sunday LGBT night that forgoes gender and judgement. The theme changes fortnightly, ranging from cabaret to Disney. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 063-2251331. Open Tue-Sun 9pm-2am

JUST A DRINK (MAYBE) On Fridays, this gin-focussed shop-house gets a splash of color with their new gay night, “Somewhere over the Rainbow (Maybe).” Throw on your finest garb and arrive before 9pm to take advantage of their special two-for-one drink offers. 44/3 Thonglor Soi 1, 065-9915725. Open daily 5:30pm-1:30am

MAGGIE CHOO’S With its decadent colonial opium den theme, this club is filled with steamy exoticism every day of the week, but head there for their Sunday Gay Night to really see the week out with a bang. The B500 entry fee will get you two drinks and a night of raucous drag shows, including lip syncs, competitions and audience participation, led by local drag sensation Pangina Heals. We advise arriving after 9pm. U/F, Novotel Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Open 7:30pm-2am

Between Surawong and Rama 4 Rd., bars usually open at 7:30 pm. BTS Sala Daeng

TEERAWAT SUKHAROM, PRIVATE BUSINESS OWNER, 32 “It was Songkran eight years ago, we went to OrTorKor and the atmosphere was crazy. I saw the mother-of-all-gays dancing on a firetruck while splashing bystanders with a fire hose. After that, she took off her clothes revealing a bikini as her gang began to perform acrobatic cheerleading.”

HERMAN WU, CO-FOUNDER OF JUST A DRINK (MAYBE), 34 “Four years ago I came to Bangkok from Taiwan for a two-night trip just to party. I ended up falling in love with a stranger I met on one of the nights. A week later I moved to Bangkok for him. We’re not together anymore but now I own a gin bar.”

6/7/19 6:36 PM

neighborhood | sukhumvit 23

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 14, 2019

Le Dalat

It’s Happpened to be Closet

Feedpoint

Whisgars

New Frontiers Soi 23 might be home to the notorious Soi Cowboy, but head deeper and this curiously diverse street harbors everything from top-notch sushi to 70-yearold family restaurants. By Megan Leon

Kua Kling Pak Sod

Coffee & Breakfast Iwane Goes Nature (14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-0350) is a mini oasis of greenery, roaming cats and fluffy ricotta pancakes (B185). For butter buns (B25), don’t miss neighborhood favorite Pak Bakery (96/8-9 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 02-258-1234). Pint-sized Feedpoint (88/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-101-6335) is jam-packed with some of Bangkok’s best bagels (B35/piece). For a quirky start to your day, head to bohemian-style vintage shop and restaurant It’s Happened to Be a Closet (124 /1 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 081-565-2026) for a full English breakfast (B390).

Lunch & Dinner Le Dalat (57 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-259-9593) serves royal Vietnamese cuisine in an antique-laden teak house—be sure to check out the risque bathroom decor! Welcoming Italian joint Unico (20/2

Glow

Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-259-9593) serves Napoli pizzas (B320) and lasagna (B350). Around since 1949, Bharani (96/14 Soi Prasarnmitr, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-4454) is famous for its boat noodle soup (B130). Kua Kling Pak Sod’s (21, 32 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 02-259-5189) fiery southern Thai cuisine has gained attention from Gaggan; try the crab stir-fried with fresh chili (B380). In a striking 100-year-old house, The Local (32/1 Soi 23, 02664-0664) serves up hard-to-find Thai recipes, while nearby Baan Kanitha (36/1 Soi Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-4128) offers tourist-friendly Thai fare. Slanted Taco (Soi 23, 02-258-0546) hits the spot with its homemade tortillas and classic margaritas (from B320). For some of the best hummus (from B120) in the city paired with shawarma wraps (B100/chicken, B120/lamb), stop by Rawabina (31/1 Soi 23, 092-820-2828). Get

your burger fix at best-loved Chef Bar (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 080-0527336) or Chunky (110/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 091-742-4094). Discover Japanese secrets Sushi Juban (120/26 Soi 23, 02-258-2813) for top-grade sushi; Uma Uma (31/9 Soi 23, 02-664-1130) for Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen (B220); and the ever-packed Mitsumori (47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-6408283) for some of Bangkok’s best soba noodles (from B230). Grab a terrace seat at Barcelona Gaudi (13 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-6617410) to enjoy paella (B620/two people) and refreshing sangria (B250/B650).

Drinks For craft beers on an outdoor terrace, drop by Craft (16 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-0541), or for live sport screenings try The Clubhouse (1/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-6641376) and Scruffy Murphy’s (10

Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-037-1107). Pullman’s Tapas Vino (30 Sukhumvit Soi 21 [Asoke]) offers wine and tapas, while Whisgars (16 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-4252) serves cigars from their walk-in humidor. Big nights can culminate in Glow (96/4 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-6143355), or trance institution Narz (112 Soi Prasanmit, 02-258-4805).

Accommodation Chodtayakorn’s (31 Sukhumvit Soi 23) pet-friendly apartments go for B100,000-180,000/month; while Wind’s (136 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-3237) start at B23,000/ month. Buy a unit at the low-rise, high-end Rende (90 Sukhumvit Soi 23) for B5-12-million.

Visit Check out the Tuesday and Thursday market at Srinakharinwirot University for food, clothes, plants and more.

BK ASKS

What drew you to Soi 23?

NEW_Neighbourhood-BK#764-14JUN2019.indd 23

LISA FAYE HAMES, DESIGNER/CURATOR AT SABURA DESIGN “This area is a kaleidoscope into Thai culture, from Soi Cowboy to local street food vendors to international eateries and clubs. I will pass tourists and neighbors simultaneously, making every day fascinating while at the same time familiar.”

WANNAPA “LEK” PATTHAPANITCHOT, ASSISTANT CONDO MANAGER “You can find everything you need in this soi from the best street pad kaprao to a good and honest foot massage.The street is very diverse and always busy—it’s impossible to get bored.”

VARESARA “BIC” SMITASIRI, OWNER OF KHUA KLING PAK SOD “My parents actually met on Sukhumvit Soi 23, so it is very special to me. I was born and raised on Soi 23 so it holds a close place in our family’s hearts. It’s our home, and we wanted to share that feeling when we opened our restaurant.”

6/7/19 6:37 PM

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6/6/19 10:51 AM