it's free!
Fish Supper An omakase restaurant dedicated to Thai seafood Virtual Insanity Home VR headsets for every budget No Yolk In search of Thailand’s best organic eggs Can Tho Attitude Southern Vietnam’s delta city
Last weekend for BK Brunch Club! NO. 766 JULY 12, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com
The people taking local distillation to another level
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LAVENDER AFTERNOON TEA AT THE OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK Until 30 September 2019 | Daily 2 p.m. - 5 p.m. Prices start from Baht 1,290 with coffee or tea for 2 persons. Up & Above Bar is located on the 24th floor of The Okura Prestige Bangkok. For more information and reservations, please call 02 687 9000 or email upandabove@okurabangkok.com Prices are subject to 10% service charge and 7% government tax.
Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Road, Bangkok 10330 T. 02 687 9000 F. 02 687 9001 E. info@okurabangkok.com okurabangkok.com facebook.com/theokuraprestigebangkok
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Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon
News Quiz
upfront
Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Sub-Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon
Striving to legalize sex work
Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara
06 cover
Bottoms up
2) Why is business between Thailand and China on positive ground? a MCM is having a sale on studded black leather backpacks. b 20 percent of Thais use Huawei phones. c Unlike those pesky Hong Kongers, we’ll send back any book seller or uyghur they ask for without raising an eyebrow. d The pooping incident on Yaowarat never happened.
Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Chayanid Udomrattanasirichai, Chutima Adulchitt, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Lalana Plangsombat, Naruenet Phothet, Paphawee Akkaragumtorn, Raima Chakrabarti, Sasin Imla, Suthivas Tanphaibul, Tanaporn Pongpeng, Thanicha Worapanyanan, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon
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Asia City Media Group
travel
Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)
Southern Vietnam
Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
The Asia City Media Group
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17
open doors
taste test
Khua Kling Pak Sod
Organic eggs
5) Which of these facts about dugong is false? a Their native habitat ranges from Fiji to Madagascar. b They don’t reach sexual maturity until eight. c They’re every bit as cute as baby pandas. d They’re known in Japan as “wagyu of the ocean” and can command up to Y50,000 as part of an omakase course.
23 neighborhood
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3) The top cop in Pattaya got shunted to a desk job recently. Why? a The sight of him in tight brown polyester was alarming tourists. b He was secretly a Future Forward guy. c Underage protitution was uncovered less than one month after he declared the city clean of prostution. d He's the only one in the department who knows how to sync Outlook with Googledocs. 4) Why, according to the Consumer Confidence Index, is Thais’ willingness to spend at a worrying new low? a Apple hasn’t released a new iPhone in over eight months. b The average size of a new condo has gone from 28 to 22 sq. meters. c The average price of a cocktail has gone from B320 to B450. d Somkid is still in charge of the economy.
Where to find us!
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
Activists are being attacked in broad daylight. Our election bent all concepts of democracy beyond recognition. The cabinet looks exactly the same as it has done for the past five years. But look! Awwwe, a baby dugong being nursed by humans. Cute! Life in Thailand could not get any better. Despite what you may have read, Marium isn’t the only thing that’s been happening this month. Test yourself below. 1) A third of Bangkokians are fed up of what? a Not knowing when Little Market’s next pop-up will happen. b The Democrat Party. c Chubby win motorcy’ drivers who are just too wide to sit between your legs. d Taking those weird stairs down from BTS Chong Nonsi that drop you off in the middle of the highway.
SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant
Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
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Narathiwas 22-26
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Tunnel vision
Answers 1. The correct answer is (b). Considering they haven’t won a parliamentary majority since—oh right, they’ve never won a parliamentary majority— you’d think that number would be higher. 2. The correct answer is (b). Now no more poop accusations! 3. The correct answer is (c), in a typically lax reaction to what’s either gross incompetence or gross corruption. 4. The correct answer is (d). Thailand’s new cabinet means business as usual for the junta’s top brass, and look how well that’s done our economy. 5. The correct answer is (d). We’d never dream of eating you, Marium.
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upfront
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HOT OR NOT
CHARGING FOR BAGS
Thailand’s glacial efforts to curb single-use plastics got ramped up a notch this month when the Mall Group announced it would start charging for plastic bags. OK, so they’re only charging one baht, and your average Mall Group shop is more likely to give you a bag made from paper with little rope handles, but it’s a start.
This foundation is striving to legalize sex work
VIOLENCE Two attacks on Sirawith Seritiwat, one with potentially lasting consequences. Seven attacks on Ekkachai Hongkangwan, one of the most vocal voices of dissent during the Prawit watch scandal. One attack on Anurak Jeantawanicha, who protested against military electoral corruption. No arrests.
INTERVIEW
The shunting of a high-ranking Pattaya police officer is forcing Thailand to confront its look-the-other-way attitude to prostitution. Here, we chat to Thanta Laowilawanyakul, the coordinator of Empower Foundation, a charity fighting since 1985 for the legalization of prostitution, about why Thailand needs to drop the stigma around sex work.
“Thailand does not lack good laws, but we lack good enforcement.” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
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Why should sex work be legal? Sex work should be legal in the same way as sewing clothes, cutting hair or cooking noodles is. Without the Prostitution Act, we will be able to use the justice system. Corrupt authorities will not be able to extort so much, meaning our employers will not keep cutting our wages forcing us to work more than is healthy, and mafia-style enterprises would be reduced. Our workplaces and employers will have to comply with Labor Law and Social Security. It will be easier to apply for other jobs when we want to leave sex work. We will be able to report crimes like violence, corruption, child abuse and trafficking without fearing arrest. We will have the same protections and benefits as other mothers and workers. Would legalizing sex work help reduce human trafficking and child victims? Other countries prove it is possible: Germany’s regulations, which include registration, have reduced human trafficking; New Zealand has seen no increase in sex workers or child abuse since it removed its Prostitution Act in 2003; Mexico recently removed their prostitution law in order to tackle trafficking and child sexual abuse. What regulations would you implement if sex work was legalized? We would like to see existing laws enforced, like the Labor Protection Act, Child Protection Act and Human Trafficking Act, among others. Thailand does not lack good laws, but we lack good enforcement.
Do you think the legalization of sex work will affect Thailand’s tourism industry? It is estimated that sex work contributes a large part of the money earned from tourism. Most tourists assume that sex work is legal already in Thailand. When it is legalized, we will be able to build a safer, fairer industry and we think it will improve the reputation of Thailand as a country that respects human rights. What’s stopping the legalization of sex work right now? The Prostitution Act has just been reviewed and there is general agreement that it needs to be removed. There has been some suggestion of a new law and regulations, though we believe this would only bring new problems. The next step is perhaps to run a pilot project in one or two areas, such as Pattaya and Chiang Mai, allowing registered workplaces to operate legally. They should form a group of government and industry representatives, and an international labor organization to create labor standards for the industry. Have there been any changes, good or bad, in the past decade? Corruption has continued, while women are going to work, providing for their families and contributing a great part of the GDP without any protection, respect or recognition. Many anti-trafficking NGOs have increased their budgets and some continue to act like vigilantes but they say trafficking is getting worse! In the last 10 years we have seen that women are working more independently and have greater access to information and each other.
@bkkmemes
MEMES In the red corner: @bkkmemes with past hits including Cocotte viral videos dig and basic Thai bro starter kit. In the blue corner: @bougiebangkokgirl, with Prayuth in the role of overprotective boyfriend and two dozen jokes about international school. But who’s behind them? First person to find out wins a ride in a chauffeur-driven Alphard to the Commons.
ENCROACHMENT A group of 14 rural villagers in Chaiyaphum have been convicted of forest encroachment and handed sentences ranging from 10 days to four years in jail. We gladly await similar results for the powerful owners of Bonanza Resort, Chokchai Farm and Kirimaya Resort—all of which are accused of encroaching on national park land in Khao Yai.
Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
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NORTHEASTERN HEAT 5 restaurants that will test your mettle with their fiery Isaan dishes
Somtum Der
Somtum Der
Zaab Eli
Few places do well-executed Isaan food in a more polished setting than this friendly eatery tucked away from the bustle of Silom Road. Here, restaurateur Thanaruek Laoraowirodge brings the strong, vibrant flavors of his native Khon Kaen to Bangkok, resulting in a parade of somtam, laab and tom saap that rivals anything to be found on the street. Standouts include the tam sua Sakon Nakhon (B65) with freshwater crab and kratin beans. Don’t forget to order a small bottle of Singha beer (B90) to help with the face-melting heat.
Somtam Nua
5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 4:3010pm.
Som Tam & Chardonnay De Tummour
Zaab Eli
De Tummour
Somtam Nua
Som Tam & Chardonnay
With its aqua blues and popping pink tiles, the friendly styling of this Isaan joint makes it a pretty chill spot to unwind and chow down on plates of authentic somtam that rub shoulders with more fusion-y dishes like raw salmon laab (B150). Highlights include somtam super pla ra (papaya salad with rice noodles, salted crabs and extra fermented fish, B110), which really will have you feeling like you’re smack dab in the northeast. For drinks, opt for the Thai tea with chewy grass jelly (B69) or a bottle of Singha beer (B95).
Nestled in Gaysorn Plaza’s thirdfloor Food Path, De Tummour boasts a more urban feel with industrial light fixtures, furniture and Chinatown-evoking metal shutters joining the usual array of traditional bamboo rice containers. Somtam lovers should opt for the pla ra-heavy tum yok thad (B220), which is packed with (lots of) chilies and comes with 11 sides (from peanuts to salted eggs to rice vermicelli). You can take down the heat with a big bottle of Singha beer for B150.
Always fenced by a long queue of Asian tourists and young locals, this restaurant serves quality Isaan food in a casual setting. The menu covers various kinds of somtam, as well as other Northeastern favorites. But the crowds mostly come for the fried chicken (B98/B130), which is beautifully marinated and comes out with perfectly crispy skin, and somtam nua (papaya salad with seafood, B75) which boasts various toppings like Northern sausages and rice noodles. Wash it all down with a Singha for B120.
In a bright, elegant space combining white marble and slate gray, Som Tam & Chardonnay offer variations of the spicy papaya salad staple alongside a number of wines and beers to cool off the heat. We recommend classic Thai style (crispy shrimp, long beans and tomatoes, B250) and the creative pu-nim plara (B280)—green papaya salad with Thai anchovies and tempura soft shell crabs. Choose between wine-pairing options like Cranswick Estate Chardonnay 2014 (B295/glass, B1,420/bottle), or a small bottle of Singha for B150.
392/14-15 Siam Square Soi 5, 02251-4880. Open daily 10:45am10pm. BTS Siam
88/333 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 020-909-052. Open daily 5:45am-11pm. BTS Thong Lo
2/F Central Eastville, Pradit Manutham Rd., 02-553-6166. Open 10am10pm Brought to you by Singha Food
3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-253-8328. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS Chid Lom
cover | bottoms up
Spirit House Meet the local producers pushing Thai spirits onto the world stage. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
I
n May of this year, at Paris’s grand Le Palais de Tokyo gallery, a Bangkok-made gin was named “Best Gin 2019” in the 11th annual Cocktails & Spirits Fair’s innovation category. Iron Balls, founded by Bangkok-based bar and design mogul Ashely Sutton, triumphed against a total of 12 gin competitors from around the globe, beating out the likes of Apostoles Gin from Argentina and Husk Distillers’ Ink Gin from Australia. No small feat for a country where, until recently, the local spirit market had been dominated by two giant brands, and where niche, small-batch distillers need to maneuver through crippling and antiquated legislations. Yet despite the odds, independent Thai-made spirits are making a name for themselves, supported by a network of award-winning bars who are championing the best of local produce. These are the brands and people who are pushing Thai spirits forward into world-renowned products.
Rum
Rum is without doubt the spirit of choice for Thai distillers, which makes sense considering Thailand’s wide supply of homegrown sugarcane. As a drink synonymous with tropical climates and palm-fringed shores, it’s unsurprising that two of Thailand’s pioneering rum distilleries are from the islands. Chalong Bay has been bottling on Phuket since 2012. These days you’re as likely to find it’s minimally labeled, homebrew-esque bottle behind the bar of a Bangkok cocktail joint as you are a bottle of Havana Club. Its secret: Thai sugarcane. “Only about 10 percent of the rums worldwide are made this way,” says Thibault Spithakis, the French distiller who founded Chalong Bay and now runs the distillery as an open bar and workshop where visitors can learn about the rum-making process. “While respecting the tradition of rum making we use a novel approach that involves innovative craftsmanship, sustainable production and local enterprise.” The French connection is shared over on Koh Samui, where Koh Samui Rum (aka Magic Alambic Distillery) began life in 2003. French couple Elisa and Michel Gabrel took up residence in the lesser-visited south of the island, in an area where there used to be only palm trees, and have turned it into a destination in itself. People visit to sample their white
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Edelbrand distillery
rum in five unique flavors: lime, orange, coconut, pineapple and naturally sweetened with sugarcane spirit. Like Chalong Bay, Koh Samui Rum is made from pure sugarcane grown in Thailand, which is distilled then refined for a minimum of one year in a stainless steel tank for a better taste. They are also both strictly white-spirit only, owing to Thai law, which has since 1998 outlawed barrel aging for all but the biggest of distilleries. This unlevel playing field has paved the way for a new, high-end label from one of the biggest names in local alcohol: Thaibev. In 2011, the company behind Chang Beer and Sangsom launched Phraya Rum, a brown spirit whose rich, intense (and barrel-aged) characteristics have found favor with award-winning bartenders from The Bamboo Bar to Vesper. Distilled alongside the bucket-drinker’s favorite Sangsom at the Sangsom Distillery, this premium product then gets taken to a separate warehouse for aging. According to Phraya’s brand ambassador, Warathep “Paul” Chandeeraj, Thailand’s hot climate helps increase the intensity and character of the rum.
Traveling northeast, Surin province’s Malai Thai Rum has also achieved a presence in many of Bangkok’s top bars. Taiwanese-American Alex Chou and his Thai partners Kaustav Bagchi and Chris Sabdasen began their distilling enterprise in 2012. Not only do they use 100-percent sugarcane, but all of it is sourced from a farm in the province. “Our products are legal under a ‘village distillery license’ for Surin, under which our products must be labeled ‘white spirits,’ not rum, vodka or gin,” explains Alex, who previously worked as an executive at one of Thailand’s top rice processors and exporters. Smooth and grassy, Malai’s unaged rum tastes perfect in a mojito, as the grassy notes blend really well with mint and any other drinks with herbs in them. Further north in Nong Khai, Issan Rum began with a team of five people in 2011 and has since expanded to a team of 30, nearly all of whom are women. Here, they peel the sugarcane before pressing it to reduce the sour taste and bring out the herbal and floral flavors. The results earned Issan Rum a silver medal at the IWSC Hong Kong in 2014. A year later, they won bronze in Rum Fest Paris’s “Less than 50%” category and gold medal in the special jury prize.
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THE CRAFT SPIRIT DRINKER’S MAP OF THAILAND
Gin
Produced alongside Malai rum in Surin, Grandma Jinn’s barely disguised name hints at the shaky legal territory that many of Thailand’s craft spirits work under. If you’re not producing on a big, commercial scale (see box) then you can only produce spirits under the One Tambon One Product [OTOP] program founded by Thaksin Shinawatra in 2001 to help promote village industries. Makers are banned from identifying their products as rum, vodka or gin, hence why Grandma “Jinn” (a reference to one of the founder’s mother-in-law) is not officially a gin, despite its juniper-led mixture of botanicals—many of them local. “I’m Thai and I saw that we have all the best agricultural products to use in the manufacture of spirits,” says Kaustav Bagchi, one of the spirit’s founders, whose team creates Grandma’s base spirit using Thai sugarcane juice. With that, they infuse juniper, ginger root, angelica root and safflower. The result is very strong, rough and earthy on the nose. Quite a contrast from any gin you might be familiar with, it has a distinct sweetness (likely from the cane alcohol) that reminds us of cachaca (Brazilian rum). Like Grandma Jinn’s, Iron Balls treads lightly when it comes to the name, describing itself on the bottle simply as “engineered alcohol” (see the pun?). Make no mistake though: with its light chord of imported juniper berries, Iron Balls is easily identifiable as a gin—and a very Thai one at that, with a punch of lemongrass, coriander, coconut and ginger. Ashley Sutton, the man originally behind playful Bangkok designer bars like Iron Fairies, Maggie Choo’s and Sing Sing Theater, began Iron Balls production using a vast copper still located on site at one of two Iron Balls-branded bars. Ash claims to be the first man to gain a distillery license in Thailand in over 31 years, jumping through legal hoops and distilling over 700 batches before finally launching the product in 2015. They now export to 17 countries worldwide. “There are no shortcuts. We don’t use yeast or chemicals,” says Sutton. “It’s all natural and organic.” Equally as discreet in its labeling, Niikki Pure Spirit’s gin has a strong hit of juniper, courtesy of berries imported from Tuscany, Italy. Into the mix, this Chiang Mai-based company adds locally grown botanicals like oolong tea and coriander seeds. It’s very floral and a little sweet, perfect for a simple mix like gin and tonic, topped with a slice of lemon. Its founder, Austrian national Nikolaus Prachensky, comes from a long line of spirit-makers back in his home country, and began an “export only” spirit brand in Thailand back in 2007. He now runs Chiang Mai’s Edelbrand distillery, which in addition to gin makes a white rum and vodka, all relying on ingredients sourced from small farmers who grow using chemical-free, sustainable agriculture techniques. Across their full range of products, Edlebrand only produces around 2,500 bottles per month, meaning the product is a little hard to get your hands on. You can order directly from them if you’re in for a lot of stock (the minimum order is 12 bottles at B400 for small and B600 for large), or check Jim Thompson shops.
Vodka
Edelbrand markets its vodka under the Kristall brand, with a “V” to distinguish it from the gin and rum products. Made using sam pa tong rice, the flavor is mild and smooth. One of the newest Thai spirits on the market also takes on the vodka market. Finland natives Mika Tikka and Jouni Heinonen partnered with San Miguel to distill Bangkok Vodka in Kanchanaburi. “When we created Bangkok Vodka, we weren’t thinking of the tourists, but we wanted Thai people to be proud that Thailand now can also do premium spirits,” says Heinonen. “I really believe that Thai people love to drink Thai drinks. For example, Thai craft beer is really growing and why is that? Because people want something different.” With its stately frosted bottle and crisp blue logo, Bangkok Vodka looks every bit the Millennial product. The taste is equally clean and elegant, with a 40-percent ABV rating and touch of sweetness that means you can enjoy it even at room temperature. But the exclusivity of Bangkok Vodka is nothing to our next locally distilled vodka: Barrelhouse 53. Served only at the high-end Bamboo Bar, this initiative sees the Mandarin Oriental’s beverage director, Jamie Rhind, team up with local booze outfit Bootleggers Trading Co. to distill alongside Malai rum at the Lamai distillery in northern Thailand. Using sweet potato rather than sugar cane or rice as its main ingredient, the vodka rings with earthy notes and a long finish.
Truly Local Not all local spirit-makers are trying to operate within the confines of a globally recognized type of alcohol. Indeed, with local laws only permitting generic “white spirits,” some of our best creations have no international comparisons at all. Lanna is a collaborative effort between South Asia Distillers—a Singapore-Thai collective made up of bartending talents Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana of Vesper/Backstage, Suwincha “Cha Cha” Singsuwan of Rabbit Hole and Natakorn “Thumb” Changrew Kaijin—and decade-old Chiang Mai-based distillery Edelbrand. Using 100-percent Thai rice, their ambition is to create a distinct new spirit category that represents Southeast Asia and which can be mixed easily into a range of cocktails. “Thailand also offers an unbelievable range of raw ingredients and diverse flavours to is very attractive,” says Palm, whose team triple distills a blend of jasmine and sticky rice in copper pots. Using only low heat, the result has a crisp and floral flavor that’s perfect for cocktails.
THE LAW, DISTILLED
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hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok
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Opening date announced for Siam Square’s Lido Connect CINEMA
Siam Square’s former Lido cinema is officially set to reopen as Lido Connect this month. Though the grand opening will take place on Jul 30, the new creative space will be in soft opening as early as Jul 13. Since ceasing operations after 50 years in June 2018, the cinema has undergone a major refurbishment courtesy of record label Loveis Entertainment, and the Property Management of Chulalongkorn University (PMCU, which owns the land at Siam Square). Though the new design is set to pay homage to the charming, old-school theater it replaces, it will function as a “co-cultural” space for live performances, temporary exhibitions, performing arts, fashion and technology showcases. Jun 22 was a historic moment for the development, as it saw the installation of the new Lido Connect sign—proof that the project, originally slated to launch in May, is finally nearing completion. Inside the refurbished building, you can expect to find a cinema plus two halls for talks and performances on the second floor, while the first floor will be reserved for The Opportunity Space Project, which invites artists and performers to exhibit for free (find application details at the Facebook page, bit.ly/2YmRf6l). There will also be an outdoor stage for music and dance performances.
NUMEROLOGY
New spa promotions you should try this month
FITNESS
DECOR
TECH
02 Thonglor’s new
03 Ikea reveals Greyhound
04 Secure-fitting earbuds
Aromatherapy Hot Oil Massage at The Oasis Spa B1,699
boutique boxing studio offers fun-filled workouts
90-minute Swedish and Thai body massage with soothing hot aromatic oils.
From the people behind RSM Muay Thai Academy, Knockout Boxing Studio offers boxing classes that go beyond the ordinary. Their 45-minute group classes incorporate weight training and HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training) for an intensive session, with Aqua punching bags that let you hit hard without hurting your wrists or fists. A drop-in class is priced at B890, while membership costs B7,900/10 classes to B31,900/50 classes. 3/F, Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2384. Open daily 9am-9pm
Green Tea Detox at Anantara Spa B3,900 30-minute homemade body scrub, followed by a moisturizing 90-minute green tea oil massage.
Lavender Relief Sensation at The Okura Spa B4,200 30-minute cream-based lavender body scrub, followed by a 90-minute Aroma Massage with Bora Bora sand pouch compresses and lavender oil.
River Escape at Chi, The Spa at Shangri-La B5,450 30-minute detox session in the spa’s private steam room, followed by a 60minute oil body massage and a 30-minute face pampering session.
ShoppingNews-BK#766-12JUL2019_NEW.indd 8
Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.
collaboration collection
for worry-free workouts
Swedish minimalism meets Thai ingenuity in Ikea’s first collaboration in Southeast Asia with Thai fashion and lifestyle label Greyhound Original. Dubbed “Sammankoppla,” which means “unify” or “interconnect” in Swedish, the eco-friendly limited-edition collection is designed by Greyhound’s creative director Bhanu Inkawat. It boasts a range of 25 home decor items made from reused materials, resulting in an industrial chic aesthetic with a Thai twist. Available in Ikea stores worldwide in August 2020, so stay tuned.
What: Jabra Elite Active 45e Price: B3,490 Why? Jabra’s latest wireless earbuds are specially designed for outdoor excercise, with IP67rated water and dust durability, ear hooks that fit snugly and open ear tips that let in ambient sound. They also support fast charging—just 15 minutes for an hour of battery life, while a two-hour full charge will last over nine hours. Pair them to your phone via Bluetooth 5.0. Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Siri and Google Assistant. Available at 2/F, Digital Lab, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-6581000. Open daily 10am-10pm
BUY IT NIKE X STRANGER THINGS COLLECTION Stylish retro sneakers and vintage apparel for die-hard fans. (Available at Carnival Store).
BIN IT ‘80S ACID WASH DENIM JACKET They weren’t cool then, and they’re definitely not cool now.
BARGAIN ZARA END-OF-SEASON SALE Get up to 50-percent off in stores and online, plus free delivery for orders over B1,990 (now until stocks run out).
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GUIDES Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life.
To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696
To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696
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hit list | calendar
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2019
NIGHTLIFE
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Catch Grammy-winning R&B artist Daniel Caesar this month
SAFE ROOM SERVES: COSMO VITELLI The cutting edge French DJ and producer leads a night of dance and electronic music. Jul 12, 9:30pm. Safe Room, 2/F, Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. B300, includes one Jagermeister shot. DRUM & BASS SESSION: DAVE SOUL Forget about house and techno and get down to some heavy d ‘n’ b beats. Jul 13, 8pm. Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089-889-8059. Free.
CONCERT
Gig organizer The Very Company is bringing over Canadian singer-songwriter Daniel Caesar on Jul 25. The 23-year-old made a name for himself in 2014 when he released his debut EP Praise Break, which made it onto Rolling Stone’s “20 Best R&B Albums” for that year. Since then, he’s released hit tunes like “Get You,” “We Find Love” and “Best Part” feat. H.E.R.— the latter of which landed him the 2019 Grammy Award for Best R&B Performance. The Bangkok gig will take place at Thunder Dome, Muang Thong Thani. Tickets are B2,600 via Ticketmelon (bit.ly/2YrT5Ts).
Lany
German Film Week 2019
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2GETHER FOR CHESTER: A LINKIN PARK TRIBUTE A tribute party to mark two years since the American rock frontman’s tragic death. Jul 20, 7pm. The Rock Pub, Phraya Thai Rd., 099-1915666. B350.
ALVVAYS The Toronto-hailing indie-pop five-piece pay a visit to B angkok . Jul 21, 6pm. Moonstar Studio, Lat Phrao Soi 80, 02-539-3881. B1,800 at Ticketmelon. WESTLIFE THE TWENTY TOUR The iconic Irish ‘90s boy band known for their hit “My Love” celebrate two decades with this huge comeback concert. Jul 24, 8pm. Impact Challenger, Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani. From B2,500 at Thaiticketmajor.
FRENCH NATIONAL DAY PARTY Celebrate Bastille Day with live concerts, swing dance lessons and tech house DJs. Jul 13, 7pm. Alliance Francaise Bangkok, 179 Wireless Rd., 02-670-4200. Free.
SCREENING
YAEJI The rising Korean-Ameican house producer brings her electronic sounds to Sathorn. Jul 18, 8.30pm. Glowfish, 2/F Sathorn Thani 2 Building, North Sathorn Rd., 02109-9600. B990-B1200 via Ticketmelon.com.
VINCENT : THE LIFE AND DEATH OF VINCENT VAN GOGH A screening of the 1987 documentary by Australian director Paul Cox on the life of artist Vincent Van Gogh, told through his letters to his brother Theo, from 1872 until his tragic death. Jul 13, 2pm. 2/F, River City Bangkok, Charoenkrung Soi 24, 02-237-0077. B120.
ART
CONCERT
FILM
06 American indiepop trio Lany returns to Bangkok
07 German Film Week is back with awesome screenings
Following a string of sold-out gigs across the States, Australia, China and Southeast Asia, indie trio Lany hit GMM Live House on Jul 29 and 30 with their Malibu Nights World Tour. Fans can expect debut-album favorites like “Good Girls,” “13” and “Super Far,” as well as hits off their 2018 album Malibu Nights, like “Thick and Thin.” Originally from California, Lany started as an incognito project with members Paul Klein, Charles Priest and Jake Clifford Goss releasing onto Soundcloud an anonymous EP titled Acronyms, which includes the now hit single “ILYSB.” Following their huge international success, the band released two more EPs, Make Out and I Loved You, before dropping their first, self-titled album in 2017. 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama I Rd., 02-640-7000. From B1,800 via Thaiticketmajor (nearly sold out at press time).
Back for yet another year, the GoetheInstitut’s German Film Week 2019 is packed with screenings of award-winning German-language flicks. Through Jul 14, you can catch Systemsprenger (System Crasher, Jul 12), the tale of an impetuous young girl’s experience in youth care; The Cleaners (Jul 13), a documentary about social media “content moderators;” and Gundermann (Jul 14), the real life story of East German singer and writer Gerhard Gundermann, which won six golds at the German Film Awards 2019. All films are priced at B100/ticket, except those at Goethe-Institut, which are free. For full details, visit bit.ly/2JgMhl5. Various locations across Bangkok.
KID INK The American rapper and music producer known for his hit “F with U” makes a Bangkok comeback. Jul 18, 10pm. Sugar Club, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-254-0444. B500. BOMBYX STORIES RIDES AGAIN! A friendly live storytelling night at Surasak’s hidden dive bar. Jul 26, 8pm. Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089-8898059. Free.
LIVE MUSIC
HALLOWEEN IN JULY: STAY AWAKE Ratchada’s independent music venue is reborn on Thonglor with an EP launch party for a melodic hardcore punk band, with support from Of Victims and Prey and Dirty Magic. Jul 12, 10pm. Speakerbox, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). B200.
DIGITAL FLÂNEURIE The South Korean artist Kim Sang Min will present her art videos and photo albums, which explore the concept of the flaneur in the modern age. Jul 12-Aug 17, 6:30pm. Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, 137-137/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-422-2092. Free.
ONE BREATH AT A TIME German artist Priya C. Link showcases her calming, abstract landscapes and life drawings inspired by Chinese calligraphy. Through Jul 28, 12pm. Le Link Gallery, 34/1 Soi Ton Son, Ploenchit Rd., 090-991-9813. Free. EVIL OF GENDER An exhibition by Japanese painter Sakuya Aoyaki that explores gender diversity through bold pop-art style works. Through Aug 4, 1pm. Changchui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 081-817-2888. Free.
WORKSHOP
OH, SNAP!
CHECK OUT THESE UPCOMING PHOTOGRAPHY EXHIBITIONS VISUAL DIARY BY POJ KANJANAHATTAKIJ Photography exhibition by a Thaiborn-British-raised artist known for expressing vivid emotions through natural light and shadows. Through Jul 22, 10am. Leica Gallery, Gaysorn Village 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1102. Free.
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TWO REALITIES Two gifted photographers showcase their very different styles, from Noah Shahar’s people-focused shots to Hans Meuter’s panoramic landscapes. Through July 24, 10am. 2/F, RCB Galleria, River City Bangkok, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24. Free.
THE COLOURS OF EMOTION BY BRYCE WATANASOPONWONG A stunning photographic exhibition that expresses human emotion through the use of color. July 1 - Sep 30, 3pm. Eat Me Restaurant and Art Gallery, 16 Convent Road, 087-8235010.
SIAM SECRET SERVICE & APARTMENT KHUNPA Two of Thailand’s leading indie bands team up for a live show. Jul 20, 7pm. Voice Space, 197 BBD Building Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02650-6000. B999.
FOOD WASTE DYEING WORKSHOP Turn food scraps into fun colors for your textiles at this sustainable clothing workshop. Jul 20, 2pm. The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 089-152-2677. B850.
7/4/19 10:29 AM
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7/4/19 3:11 PM
travel | vietnam
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2019
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Can Tho Attitude
How to spend your days in southern Vietnam’s waterfront city. By Kankanok Wichiantanon
T
here are many things that make the Mekhong Delta’s largest city unique. Boats stacked high with giant piles of fruit and veg. A land ripe with orchards. Street stalls selling rustic delicacies. But perhaps what we like most is the fact that tourists here are as rare as they are ubiquitous in Vietnam’s UNESCO-protected poster cities. Don’t think it’s for lack of things to see and explore. This working, water-shrouded city matches tradition with the breakneck pace of modern Vietnam, yet the noise and bustle fades away when you take to the water and explore the tranquil, time-worn trading byways.
To do
To eat
Must-See
Kick off your day at the bustling, mega floating market of Cai Rang (Cai Rang River, near Cai Rang Bridge), where a parade of boats sells vibrant tropical fruits in wholesale quantities (don’t start haggling for just a head of pineapple, they want to sell you a few kilos). The market usually dies down by 9am. We recommend getting there by boat to witness the charms of water life en route.
The street feast begins as you cruise to the morning market. You’ll notice tiny boats packed with bottles of colorful beverages, steaming pots and fresh coconuts—locals nickname them “The Mini Bar.” Holler them in and they’ll fix you a hot coffee poured straight into a thin plastic cup. Don’t be put off as the cup starts to go soft in your hand—the coffee inside tastes unique and delicious. If you’re lucky, you might even spot boats serving gin and tonic so be on the lookout. For breakfast, Quan An Cam Ky (37 De Tham St.) is a local joint where you’ll get an excellent but no-frills com ga (chicken and rice). We also recommend the barbecued pork and rice (B45) with a crispy, over-easy egg on the side. For lunch, Mr Cahn’s House is a local favorite where they make soft, thin vermicelli with a distinctive, diagonal twirl pattern. It’ll take you nearly 40 minutes’ drive to get there, but the journey provides an excellent opportunity to see Vietnam at its green and non-touristy best. Don’t forget to order the smoky Vietnamese grilled pork sausage known as nem nuong. Come evening, choose between Sìl My (13 Tan An, Ninh Kieu St.) for Vietnamese-style hot pot and barbecue, or L’Escale (1 Ngo Quyen St.), where they serve a mix of local staples and Western faves along with a small selection of wine. It’s a little fancy but the rooftop river views are worth it.
Gain an insight into the city’s Chinese and Khmer communities at Can Tho Museum (1 Hoa Binh St.), or see where the French colonialists used to imprison Vietnamese revolutionaries and citizens who challenged their regime in 1886 at Can Tho Grand Prison (8 Ngo Gia Tu St.).
Blessed with rich soils, the city has made an attraction of its bountiful agriculture thanks to walk-through orchards and cocoa plantations. We recommend visiting Ba Cong Orchard (166 Long Tuyn Rd. www.fb.com/BaCongOrchard), which grows a huge variety of fruits and vegetables from jackfruits to black peppers. The owner is in his 70s yet always makes it to the front gate to greet his visitors. A fruit buffet for B30 a person marks the perfect end to the walk. The tour at Vuon Cacao plantation (My Khanh Rd., Phong Dien. www.fb.com/lamphucchan) takes you through the fascinating yet labor-intensive process of farming the beans and turning them into cocoa products such as cocoa butter, nibs, powder and chocolate bars—at only B40 per person, we say it’s not to be missed. Tay Do Night Market (Hai Ba Trung St.) makes for a perfect spot to get your souvenir shopping done. If you’re a foodie, then Phan Chu Trinh market (Phan Chu Trinh St.) is your place with street vendors offering a great range of tasty Vietnamese goodies at super affordable prices so you can sample many things in one sitting.
GRAND OPENING
Azerai Can Tho
Overview: On Can Tho’s tiny islet of Au, Azerai is the latest installment from Aman founder Adrian Zecha's "affordable" boutique hotel follow-up brand. Accessible only by boat, this tasteful hideaway stands perched on over 80,000-sq-meters of land on the Hau River. Rooms: Affordable in Zecha's rarified world still means rooms from B7,500/night (budget upwards of B30,000/night for Aman resorts), decorated in light, natural tones. The 35-sq-meter standard category is ample for two
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and equipped with an outdoor terrace overlooking the river. Facilities: The 31-meter pool sits an arm-length away from the café, while the spa makes use of natural ingredients like Mekong rice, almond oil and coffee in its treatments. A fully-equipped gym with Pilates and yoga studios sits close to the shoreline with sweeping views of the iconic, cable-stayed Can Tho Bridge. Food & Drink: The quality of food at Azerai’s two restaurants fortunately lives up to the expensive
The 149 year-old Binh Thuy Ancient House (144 Bui Huu Nghia St.) draws on French and Chinese architectural styles with its vibrant flower-filled front garden and the rainbow motifs. Hit the town center for a leisurely walk through streets lined with food stalls and markets, vibrant pagodas and temples, like the beautiful Ong Temple (32 Hai Ba Trung St.), a colorful, Chinese-style assembly hall built in the 19th century that sits on the water. For a more peaceful stop, the Khmer-Buddhist temple of Chua Munirensay (36 DL Hoa Binh St.) is a relaxing place to recharge.
Essentials Getting There Just earlier this year, AirAsia (www. airasia.com) launched direct flights to Can Tho, which run three times a week (Tue, Thu and Sat) starting at roughly B2,663 for a return. Currency 100 VND = 0.13 THB
price tags. Our choice is The Grill, your typical hotel steak and seafood joint but done with a level of finesse (those mashed potatoes) and serious produce. The Cafe is the all-day dining venue. We love just about everything they serve: pho, fresh spring rolls and banh cuon (steamed rice crepe stuffed with ground pork filling)—all boast big flavors with no added new twists. Rave: You’re on a private island, and that never gets old. Lush mangrove forests and shady banyan trees provide natural
sanctuary, while Azerai adds the necessary, luxurious touches. Rant: While Can Tho is a city, staying at Azerai is more akin to a secluded tropical resort than a city hotel. Be prepared for that sense of detachment—everything is a boat ride away. Price: From B6,800-9,990 per night. The prices change, so check the website for the latest promotions before you book. (www.azerai.com)
7/4/19 5:00 PM
travel | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2019
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CHIANG MAI
09 Chiang Mai’s latest
08
This beachside grill is ultimate for date night
Thai restaurant revives traditional family recipes
Ni-Yom Homemade
From the Lanna-style house setting to the generations-old family recipes, Ni-Yom Homemade (www.fb.com/niyomhomemade) is all about nostalgia. Situated inside the small Baan Suan Residence resort, the family-run restaurant uses traditional techniques to create a menu of kai pa low (braised pork and egg in sweet soy soup, B120), green curry with braised beef shank (B160) and dry porridge brimming with Chinese sausage, stir-fried pork and crispy fried salted egg (B120). Inside, the light and airy space is decked out in blond wood, with walls painted in ocean blue for some modern flair.
FAME District
CHONBURI
CHIANG MAI
10 Say hello to Sriracha’s
11 Chiang Mai’s latest
fresh community space
PHUKET
From its alfresco, beachside perch, The Nai Harn hotel’s Prime (076-380-200, www. fb.com/primeatrocksaltphuket) deals in fine-dining European flavors. Naked flames and a charcoal-grill light up the open air kitchen, where executive chef Mark Jones (formerly of Bangkok’s Plaza Athenee) slaves over infallibly juicy dry-aged wagyu flank steaks (B1,700)— fierce rivals for the pricier wagyu rib-eye (B2,500). Umami bursts from the Angus fillet tartare (B700), with smoked olive oil, porcini powder, truffle and tangy Parmesan crackling, while the fresh gilt-head sea bream (B1,650) gains richness from Jerusalem artichoke and salty samphire. Finish with a creamy coconut panna cotta (B395) with berry compote and a glass of wine from the James Suckling-curated list.
Short for “food, art, music and entertainment,” FAME District (www.fame-district.com), aims to enrich the local community with a wealth of cultural events and F&B options. FAME is home to four outlets, including The Barn, a minimalist, farmhouse-like cafe; family-run noodle shop, Khun P; Japanese grill, O-REN SAN; and beer-focused bar, String & Jugs. Its 200capacity outdoor “piazza” is set to host a calendar of community-focussed events, from art and culture to sports and live performances. Located within Pattana Golf Club in Sriracha town, the venue is reachable in just under two hours’ drive from Bangkok.
coffee specialist sits in a converted warehouse Taste Atelier (shorturl.at/agDOS) is taking the city’s coffee scene by storm with its artsy industrial setting inside the multifaceted Weave Artisan Society Chiang Mai, an old ice manufacturing warehouse that now houses local and regional crafts. The long coffee bar serves classics like latte, mocha and piccolo all for B75 and fresh croissants (B55). The venue doubles as an event space, so in between sips you can wander around and get some visual inspiration.
Where Will You Travel Next? uncovers the latest resorts, restaurants, shops and attractions across Thailand.
Out Sep 27, 2019 Want your business to appear in Hot Spots 2019? Book now to get 30% off before July 31 Book here Call: 02-624-9696 Email: advertising@asia-city.co.th
TravelNews-BK#766-12JUL2019-3_NEW.indd 15
7/5/19 4:57 PM
food & drink | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2019
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HOT OF THE PASS
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Top international chefs converge for this yearly foodie event
SUGAR SUGAR Sugar Ray, the speakeasy from the masterminds also behind Q&A and Thaipioka, has expanded to Thonglor’s hip community mall, The Commons. Named Sugar Ray Apartment, cocktails (all B350) switch it up with the likes of the guava and salted caramel daiquiri and the elderflower chocolate highball.
ALL-STARS
So Amazing Chefs, So Sofitel’s celebration of highwire gastronomy, may not be until September, but early-bird tickets are already up for grabs. From Sep 15-22, the event’s eighth edition will see baking workshops led by Iron Chef Thananya Kaikaew (Sep 16 and 20, B2,400/person); a night of EuropeanChinese fusion from Nicolas Elalouf of Hong Kong’s contemporary dim-sum restaurant Man Mo (Sep 17, B2,500/person); and a kaiseki dinner with sake pairing from chef Takatomo Izumi of Kyoto’s oneMichelin-starred Jiki Miyazawa (Sep 17, B8,888/ person). Sep 16-22 will see a series of collaborative eight-course dinners by eight pedigreed chefs, including the likes of Nick Kim, chef/co-owner of New York City’s sleek three-Michelin-starred omakase Shuko, and Paul Liebrandt, formerly of the twoMichelin-starred Corton in New York (from B7,288/ person). The main event, The Culinary Showdown (Sep 18-19), challenges 16 chefs to compete in a two-day cook-off, culminating in a four-course dinner with wine pairing (B4,500/person)—Sep 18 has already sold out. On top of eight dinners and one boozy weekend brunch, the week-long event also includes workshops like cheese tastings and oyster shucking. So Sofitel, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Book tickets via bit.ly/2X525wi
THREE’S A CHARM After recently opening a second branch in Nanglinchee, Bangkok Trading Post has this month expanded to a third branch. Located in Chit Lom’s Mercury Ville, the deli-style opening will serve pastries, sandwiches, pastas, salads Thai dishes.
LET’S BRUNCH
EAST IS EAST
TASTE OF HOME
13 BK Brunch Club is still serving the best weekend dining deals in Bangkok
14 Affordable Thai fine dining reaches Soi 11
15 Celadon’s new menu sources ingredients from Amphawa
Still haven’t booked your table for BK Brunch Club? You’re missing out. But don’t worry. There’s still one more weekend to try the best-priced sharing feasts in Bangkok at unbeatable prices. On July 13-14, we’ve got over 20 of the city’s lightest, brightest, most daytime-friendly dining spots to roll out sensational sharing menu of the finest produce. Prices start from just B1,000 per person (try finding that at the fancy hotel buffet) and many have awesome booze packages too. Visit bkrestaurantweek.com/ brunch and find out where you could be dining.
The latest to join Eleven mall’s fold is eastern Thai restaurant and bar Burapa. From the family behind Soi 33’s buzzy fine-dining institution Sri Trat, here you’ll find fragrant seabass larb with cardamom shoots (B220), grilled herbal northern-style pork sausages (B180) and the house special minced pork with chamuang leaf relish and fresh vegetables (B220), as well as creative Thai-inspired cocktails (around B340). All black and gold, the compact bar area comes with a stunning Art Deco design. 26 Soi Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-012-1423. Open Wed-Mon 6pm-midnight
Known for its artfully presented Royal Thai-inspired cuisine, the Sukhothai Hotel’s Celadon has revealed a new menu that excites while still sticking to tradition. Chef Rossarin “Rin” Sripathum has sourced ingredients from her hometown of Amphawa in dishes like fresh watermelon topped with dried barracuda, crispy shallots and garlic (B350), flavorful pomelo salad with grilled prawns (B450), and exceptionally tender grilled Australian beef cheek in a dry panang curry (B750). Finish with the unusual cassava sorbet (B110). The Sukhothai Bangkok, 3/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888
BELLY RUB 72 Courtyard’s Beer Belly has a new menu of drinking snacks that are perfect for soaking up those craft brews. Wake up with the spicy nam jim jaew and chimichurri on the grilled catfish and sticky rice (B280), or pull yourself out off too-drunk-to-function mode with the comforting dry congee bowl (B190).
YOU SAID WHAT?
The news in online foodie posts
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“You forgot the other location of Tacos and Salsa and Madong on Onnut. Both delicious!!!!!” - FACEBOOK USER STEPHANIE KELLER ON BK’S BTS ON NUT NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE.
“I miss rotiboy. Somebody needs to bring it back.” - IG USER @PAVVIE ON KATHY MCLEOD’S BANGKOK FOOD CRAZES CARTOON.
“Soi 11 is pimpin’” - FB USER RICH KANTITA LP ON THE OPENING OF ROCKET SOI 11.
7/5/19 5:24 PM
dining reviews
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2019
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Dosa King
Dosa King HHH 153/7 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1, 080-545-1111. BB
If you’re looking to experience some real southern Indian home cooking, then this spot specializing in—you guessed it—dosa is for you. Hidden down a small Sukhumvit Soi 11 side-street, this unembellished bistro feels like a secret, but it’s not. Having run for 17 years, the restaurant is crowded with mostly Indian customers at just about any time of the day. Its wood-heavy interior is unflashy, the only refinement coming in the form of simple white tablecloths—it’s definitely not cozy, but it’s comfortable. The long menu is a repertory of vegetarian south Indian staples: delicately light and fluffy idlis (steamed rice cakes, B100); crunchy-edged vadas (Indian savoury doughnuts made from black lentils, B110) with a pleasingly chewy interior; and satisfyingly crisp and addictive dosa (B120)—south Indian pancakes made with fermented rice and lentils, stuffed with various fillings. Go for the plain dosa (B120) and you’ll be treated to sides of delicious coconut chutney and peppery sambar (lentil-based vegetable stew), though the many filled options will tempt you in. We found
Boon Pochana HHH 152/8-9 Silom Rd., 02-237-2764. Open daily 11am-3am. BB F
There are late-night Chinese restaurants in Bangkok that blow minds. They serve indecently umami-tasting greens, plates of mapo tofu zinging with Szechuan pepper, chili-laden soups of succulent beef, and pan-fried dumplings whose crusts glisten and crackle. Boon Pochana, despite what its reputation might tell you (it once featured in Phaidon’s “Where Chefs Eat” series) is not among the best of them. Don’t get us wrong. Food here is tasty. Pull up a table beside the cheery masses of regulars (office workers during the day; weary party heads and beer-swilling local business owners after midnight), order up some deepfried squid in chili and garlic (B250), a plate of their fried string beans (B150) and a few big bottles of beer and you’ll have a great time. We just know you can find better versions of these same dishes elsewhere. The string beans across the road at Liaoning, for example, will be more rich with that oily-salty hit, more bathed in crisp nuggets of pork and garlic. The steamed grouper (market price,
Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
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the chunky potato mash in the masala dosa (B165) a tad mushy, though it still delivered on flavor, whereas the palak masala option (B175) sees the pancake nicely coated inside with a spinach paste and topped with a more satisfying potato mash. Likewise, the rich paneer option (B195) is satisfyingly spice-laden. We strongly recommend trying the onion rava dosa (B120), a crispy, net-like crepe made from semolina, rice flour and chopped onions, whose delicate, brittle texture is perfect to snack on. For a wonderful hit of pepper and cumin, don’t miss the aloo jeera (stir-fried potatoes with onion, tomato and spices), with a mellow side of malai kofta (cottage cheese and potato dumplings in creamy tomato gravy, B220) to balance out the spice. For dessert, the gulaab jamun is as cloyingly sweet as you’d expect, but with a good hint of cardamom, though our favorite is the ras malai (B160), indulgent milky cottage dumplings soaked in saffron and cardamom-scented milk. Though the atmosphere is a little discomforting—what’s with the staring?—just about everything we ate was decent and there’s a certain authenticity and simplicity in the food, service and ambience. If comforting Indian food is what you’re after, Dosa King does just the trick.
approx. B800) at Somboon Seafood will be less rubbery, the light, soy-based sauce that extra bit nuanced. A staple of every table is the cold, shredded boiled chicken (B400) with a salty-sharp dipping sauce. The chicken has the lean, dense-yet-moist flesh of a well-reared bird, but we struggle to get excited about a dish quite this bland. With that in mind, we’d recommend throwing the mapo tofu into your order if you like food with some punch. It’s not the most tongue-numbing iteration out there, but at B120 the portion is huge and provides a good balance of spice amid the comforting, gooey-tender textures of minced pork and tofu. Boon’s other charm is, well, its total lack of charm. About the only thing in the dining room to have changed since it opened is the branding on the Pepsi refrigerator. Harsh white lighting that could come from a strip mall and surfaces that shine like only the orange-hued wood in old-school Chinese restaurants can are blissfully impervious to time and trends. Prices are also half of those you’ll encounter in a fancy Cantonese place, meaning workers in the area could comfortably keep it on the weekday lunch rotation (though their arteries might not thank them for it). But if they were to ask our opinion, we’d recommend some of the nearby competition first.
Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000 Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
B BB BBB BBBB
Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music
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food & drink | open doors
16 Khua Kling Pak Sod hits Surawong with fiery southern fare The buzz: This ever-expanding restaurant’s fifth branch brings their delicious southern recipes to Silom’s office crowd in a gorgeous modern setting. The vibe: While the branches at Sois 23, 53 and Ari all go in for homey cream tablecloths and traditional dark-wood furniture, this latest opening runs with the refined modern design that is hinted at in the lesser known Petchaburi branch: elegant green ceramic tiles give the walls an almost reptilian finish, while dark terrazzo flooring and Venetian blinds lend a moody edge. Retro orange and yellow leather chairs add a playful finish. The restaurant is located on the second floor of the neon blue-lit Red Planet hotel, taking things up a notch from the 7-eleven and Scoozi pizza found on the ground level. The food: You can expect to find all the incredible recipes passed down from the family’s Chumphon-born grandmother, from the signature khua kling moo sab (stir-fried spicy southern dry curry with minced pork, B180) to the flavorful sataw pad kapi goong (stir-fried stink beans and prawns
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with shrimp paste, B240). Don’t forget to order a side of ga lum plee cha nam pla (B180)—who knew cabbage could taste this good? The crunchy garlic that tops the pla tod kamin (fried fish with tumeric; priced by weight) is so moreish, you almost wish it was available to order on its own right. Finish with our favorite, lod chong nam kati (B80)—or as we like to call it, green “worms” in coconut milk. The drinks: Head there from 5-7pm to take advantage of their two-for-one happy hour on all drinks, including cocktails (B280). Mocktails like the refreshing passion fruit mojito are also on offer at B180. Why we’d come back: We’re always in the mood for Khua Kling’s incredible food—now we can access it during lunch breaks. Angela Symons
Khua Kling Pak Sod (Surawong), 2/F, Red Planet Hotel, 178 Surawong Rd., 093-242-4264. Open daily 10am-10pm
7/5/19 8:28 PM
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EAK Hideya
TABLE TALK NEW AND NOTED
17 Order espresso 18 Soi 11’s ramen martini with breakfast joint is a Japanese at the new Rocket expat fave After closing on Sukhumvit Soi 49, Rocket Coffeebar (27 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 096-791-3192) now has a new Nordic-chic home in front of Soi 11’s luxury condo, Hyde. We love The Scrambled (scrambled eggs on rye sourdough with sour cream, B220)—especially when paired with an espresso martini (B260), available from 8am. If you’re looking for somewhere to chill out for the entire day into the evening, this place is ideal, as they also serve dinner, including lamb couscous (B580) and chicken tikka masala (B360), and are open till midnight with wine from just B990 for a bottle of Danish rose.
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If you lamented the closure of Rama 9’s awesome ramen spot Hideya, then here’s some good news: it’s back. Well, kind of. The new EAK Hideya (Eleven, 26/3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-886-5329) is under a different owner, but the rich and creamy Yokohama-style lekei (Japanese for home-style, B220) ramen remains, served in a pork and chicken bone broth with melt-in-your-mouth pork chashu. Veggies can indulge in the spicy faux-tonkotsu vegetarian ramen (B220) with tofu and a variety of mushrooms. You can customize your bowl’s boldness (tare), oiliness and noodle hardness, as well as choose between three noodle types.
19 Head here for fresh seafood, served street-style If you’re craving fresh seafood but a trip to the beach sounds like too much effort, check out Seafood Mahanakorn (G/F, The Market, 111 Ratchadamri Rd., 089-067-7436), where brightly colored tin chairs, wooden fish shoal light fixtures and faux fishing hooks offer an arty take on street market style. Kick things off with Two Dips (B190)—Thai shrimp dip and their signature chili paste served with crispy salmon skin, crispy chicken skin and vegetables— before going all in with the Grilled Mixed Seafood (B1,250), a platter of river prawns, squid, New Zealand mussels and clams, served with spicy seafood sauce.
Washoku Aji 3/F Big C Ekkamai, 02-714-8367. (There are five other branches as well.) Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:00pm-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-10:30pm. You’ll get all the sleek, Japanese-style modernism you can handle when you visit this Bangkok sushi joint. Clean dark wood tables, Japanese art on the walls and shelves packed with premium sake all add to the Tokyo vibe. Washoku satisfies as an afterwork izakaya, which is exactly what you want it to do. Go for the hon maguro butsu sashimi set, featuring big slices of raw bluefin tuna, chutoro and otoro sashimi. The drinks run the gamut of sake, plum wine, highballs and fruity liquors.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 1,000 or more / sales slip 01 Mar ’19 – 29 Feb ’20
7/5/19 8:28 PM
TABLE TALK
MARIAN by Lobster & Oyster 2/F J Avenue Thonglor, Sukhumvit soi 55, 092-6625555. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo Grill addicted chef Marian Baranek, gives diners exactly what his restaurants name suggests: fresh oysters and lobsters. Specialities include fresh Royal Cabanon oysters, cockle popcorn with homemade garlic mayonnaise sauce, plump Hokkaido scallops, and of course fresh Maine or Canadian lobster with mashed potato, garlic bread and salad. The cocktail menu shows the restaurant’s cheeky side with drinks like the Kiss Me Please—a combination of vodka, passion fruit juice and lime.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food when spending via Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige. Get 5% discount on food when spending via Citi credit card. 01 Apr ’19 – 30 Sep ’19
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Tea Factory and More
Yest Works Coffee Roastery
NEW AND NOTED
20 Furry friends are welcome at this new teahouse
21 Asoke’s new coffee 22 A taste of Thai roastery looks like an tapas next to the new apothecary MRT Sam Yot
Pattaya’s Tea Factory and More (95 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 062-5754411) has now opened a Bangkok branch in the pet-friendly community “Trail and Tail.” Surrounded by an English garden, the teahouse-slash-restaurant’s elegant yet moody mix of dark woods, crystal chandeliers and fresh flower bouquets is inspired by a Sri Lankan tea factory. Pair your scone (B55) or refreshing avocado, crabmeat, green apple and wasabi salad (B200) with over 20 varieties of tea from around the world—try La Vie en Rose (B140), a rose-scented cold brewed black tea. There are also tasting, blending and kombucha workshops available (from B1,000/person).
With its dark wooden frontage and walls lined with small black and brown bottles, you might mistake Yest Works Coffee Roastery (51/179 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 064-014-9020) for an old-school apothecary or a branch of Aesop’s, but those aren’t pills or cosmetics they’re touting. They do, however, approach coffee like scientists, charting their eight different roasts on precise flavor diagrams. Purchase beans sourced from South America, Papua New Guinea, or—their key focus—Thailand (from B280/200g), or order a drip coffee (B80). A membership program with an app in the works grants customers up to 30-percent off.
All rough brick, dark woods and garlic garlands, the cozily narrow Ola Thai Tapas Bar (18/1 Charoengkrung Rd., 099-294-6868) may feel straight out of Europe but their menu takes a cross-cultural approach—think salted egg yolk with shrimp (B120) and beef massaman tapas (B120) alongside calamari (B140) and pintxo (B120). Indulge in the likes of their Bangkok Twilight cocktail (mango puree, pineapple juice, honey, lime, vodka and coriander, B290) or an inventive Pancake shooter (whiskey, butterscotch schnapps, orange juice and maple syrup topped with bacon, B200) and you might be in need of heavier dishes like the beef burger (B220) or chocolate stewed pork (B220).
7/5/19 8:28 PM
food & drink | taste test
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Who produces Bangkok’s best... organic eggs? It’s no myth that happy chickens lay happy eggs—just one look at a bright orange yolk makes those sad yellow caged numbers pale in comparison. Yet with terms only loosely defined, not all “organic” eggs are created equal. We’ve put six hormone- and antibiotic-free eggs to the test to see if we can taste the difference. By BK Staff Winner!
Who: Claiming to be the first “fully organic certified free range eggs in Thailand,” these eggs from the Central Food Retail Company guarantee that they are hormone-, antibiotic- and chlorophyll red-free and boast DLD Organic Thailand Certification. The brand pushes a big range of OTOP products in support of local communities and can be found in Tops Markets and Central Food Halls. Verdict: The yolk is extra-creamy and it has just a faint aroma and a clean taste. Price: B87 (pack of 10 eggs) www.tops.co.th/th/corporate/my-choice-thai
Happy Hens By Hilltribe Organics
Who: Founded by American expat Richard Blossom, Hilltribe Organics works with hill tribes in northern Thailand. They claim that their chickens are raised free from hormones and antibiotics and are allowed to roam free. The brand is DLD Organic Thailand certified. Verdict: This egg, by far, has the funkiest smell of all, and even worse, the yolk feels sticky and dry, while the white is coarse and crumbly texture. The taste is slightly sweet. Price: B81 (pack of 10 eggs) hilltribeorganics.com
N&P Organic eggs
Who: The carton ambiguously reads: “I may not run 10k, but I walk and run every day.” Apparently that means the hens are raised in a spacious barn and fed with only organic grains, grown without using pesticides or herbicides. They promise the eggs are free of antibiotics, growth hormones and artificial colorings. The packaging is made from plants and said to be 100-percent compostable. Verdict: With its light yellow yolk, we were dubious at first. However, it fully redeems itself on the texture front: the yolk boasts a smooth consistency, while the white is soft and squishy. Price: B89 (pack of 10 eggs) www.npfood.com
S-pure by Betagro
Who: This company guarantees freshness through its temperature-controlled cold chain supply process. Their chickens are raised without the use of antibiotics or growth hormones and their eggs are NSF-certified. Verdict: With a beautiful dark orange color, a satisfying rich and creamy texture and a nice hint of sweetness, this egg’s yolk is a winner. Unfortunately it’s let down by a rubbery white. Price: B75 (pack of 10 eggs) www.betagro.com
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Runner up!
Doctor Henn
Who: This brand claims to raise its chickens cage-free and fed with only natural ingredients. The resulting eggs are antibiotic- and chlorophyll red-free and are guaranteed to be delivered to stores within 48 hours of being laid. Verdict: With a nice eggy flavor that’s not overpowering, this one is very easy to eat. Its yolk is deliciously creamy and smooth, with a soft and tender white. Price: B55 (pack of six eggs) www.fb.com/Doctorhennfanpage
Akara
Who: With the slogan “Feel Yikes! the Nature,” this company claims to raise its hens outdoors on sweet corn and organic vegetables, free from hormones and antibiotics. Verdict: With its dry, rubbery white and its gummy yolk, this egg is quite hard to swallow. It tastes very bland and has an unpleasant smell. Price: B89 (pack of 10 eggs) akaraeggology.com
*Each egg was similar in size and boiled for six minutes.
My Choice Thai
7/5/19 8:28 PM
shopping | tunnel vision
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La La Land VR headsets for every budget No longer a futuristic sci-fi vision, VR is hurtling towards a Black Mirror-esque reality. With the new Oculus Quest now out, why not succumb to the inevitable and get involved? We’ve rounded up some of the best VR headsets at every budget, from affordable standalones to high-end tethered options and even one that works with your phone. Ready, player one? By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selly Google Daydream (2nd Generation) Price: B3,451 The good: Ideal for tech geeks on a tight budget, this headset works with your phone. It may be cheap, but it’s not all plastic. It’s made from a soft, breathable fabric, which also makes it super lightweight. The headset does a good job at keeping light out, which is crucial for an immersive experience. The bad: You’re obviously not going to be blown away at this price point and, while it will work on most smartphones released in the last two-to-three years, the resolution of your screen will heavily affect the VR experience. Most phones have refresh rates of 60hz, which is considered quite low for a decent VR experience, so prolonged use is likely to cause dizziness and headaches. The controller is also incredibly simple and only works for basic VR experiences. Available at www.lazada.com, www.amazon.com
Oculus Go
Price: B9,500 The good: Oculus’s original untethered VR headset comes in at half the price of its latest sibling, making it good for budget conscious gamers. Easy to use straight out of the box, this device definitely targets the casual, light gamer. While lacking the guts of the Oculus Quest, you can get surprisingly good VR experiences out of this little headset. The bad: As there is no camera tracking, it only allows for 260 head movements, so no moving through virtual space. Obviously the performance and graphics are not at the level of its more powerful tethered headset competitors or its big brother Oculus Quest—to put it in perspective, the Snapdragon 821 processor is the same one you would find in early 2018 phones. Available at www.lazada.com, www.amazon.com
Playstation VR
Price: B12,490 The good: This is the most affordable high-end VR headset you can get, plus the sleek and minimal design makes it one of the most attractive options on the market. Besides offering an immersive gaming experience, the Playstation VR also features a “Cinematic Mode” that allows you to watch videos and movies on a huge virtual reality screen. It also has the best library of games and add-ons. If you already have a PS4, this headset is your go-to—why shell out for other pricey PC-tethered headsets, when you only need a PS4 console to run this? The bad: Unlike the room-scale tracking of the HTC Vive (see opposite), the Playstation VR only uses a single-camera tracking system. This means you can only walk around to a certain extent before getting a system warning to not go beyond the set up space. Another downside is the quality of the graphics, which may not be as sharp as those of its competitors. But at this price point, you can’t really complain. Available at 3/F, Sony Store, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6150. Open daily 11am-8pm
Google Daydream (2nd Generation)
Oculus Quest
Price: B17,900-24,900 The good: The new kid on the block, this standalone VR headset gives you untethered freedom to move around without wires pulling you back. A big step up from the Oculus Go, the Quest offers six degrees of freedom (6DOF) tracking thanks to two motion controllers, which means you can walk around anywhere in your VR space without worrying about bumping into walls or furniture. VR at this level is impressive considering it’s not hooked up to a console or PC. Setting up Oculus Quest is also super easy, since everything is built into the headset itself—no need to connect it to a PC or fumble around trying to adjust the sensors for head and hand tracking. The wide range of 50 games available is the icing on the cake. The bad: It can feel a bit heavy on your face. Another bummer is light leakage through the bottom. The performance is not at the same level as a tethered headset.
Oculus Go
Available at www.lazada.co.th
HTC Vive
Price: B25,500 The good: The HTC Vive offers next-level immersion thanks to its room-scale tracking, which lets you roam around freely through virtual space. Movement feels natural whether you’re sitting or standing, plus there’s a front-facing camera that allows you to see your space in the real-world without having to take off the headset. “Chaperone Mode” helps you stay in the area you’ve set up without stumbling into furniture and hurting yourself. The 360-controllers are versatile and easy to use, while the number of games available through SteamVR will totally blow you away. The bad: It requires a high-end PC to run and you need plenty of space for set up. Long cables and tether can easily get tangled around your feet (an extra add-on is required if you want your Vive to be completely wireless). It also comes with a hefty price tag, which you may justify with the generous accessories provided in its box—cables and adaptors galore.
Playstation VR
Available at www.vive.com/th
HTC Vive Oculus Quest
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7/4/19 11:33 AM
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A bunch of super rare whiskies are coming to Bangkok, but you won’t find them in any bars The Secret Speyside collection includes bottles from a dismantled, 113-year-old distillery that will never produce another single-malt ever again. How's that for rare?
This week, Pernod Ricard released the Secret Speyside collection—its largest range of single malt whiskies ever—and a handful of the bottles have landed at Suvarnabhumi Airport's duty free store. All of them are aged between 18-25 years, meaning the release is targeted more at enthusiasts than folks looking to “test” a nice whiskey or wow their business colleagues with a pricy bill at Duke. Keep that in mind. What makes the release interesting is the rarity of the bottles (get your wallet ready). All of them come from lesser-known or discontinued distilleries in far-flung corners of the Speyside region in northeastern Scotland—one of the world’s most famous whiskey-producing realms and the home of The Glenlivet brand. Brought to you by Pernod Ricard
Two of the rarest bottles come from Caperdonich, which produced its last single malt in 2002 before the distillery was dismantled after 113 years in operation. There are peated and non-peated versions of Caperdonich 21-Year-Old as part of the collection. Both were matured in American oak barrels and have a zesty, citrus smell and long, smooth finish thanks to the lengthy aging process. These are the last remaining bottles from Caperdonich, so it’s debatable whether you should even open them. For what it’s worth, people who have dared to crack the seal on Caperdonich bottles tend to give them favorable reviews. The next two uber-rare bottles come from Glen Keith, the first Speyside distillery to be built in the 20th century and known for
producing more delicate whiskies compared to its regional counterparts. There is a 21- and 25-year-old offering here, both leaning on the fruity side of the spectrum, with the older version adding a bit of spice to the mix. Finally, Longmorn rounds out the final two rare bottles to landing in Thailand. Longmorn actually holds a special place in Asia’s whiskey history. It’s where Masataka Taketsura, the founder of Japan’s massively popular Nikka Distillery, learned the craft. Longmorn’s 18- and 23-year-old bottles are arguably the smoothest of the Secret Speyside collection with creamy toffee flavors dominating the palate.
food
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Gone Fishing Exploring the secrets of Nonthaburi’s Japanese chef’s table dedicated to Thai seafood. By Kankanok Wichiantanon
L
ocated around 15 kilometers north of central Bangkok, the gated community of Nichada Thani is a little slice of wealthy, American-style suburbia known for its luxury homes and international school set around a scenic 125-rai lake. Recently, foodies have found a new reason to make the 30-40-minute ride here, and that’s Kaijin, a mysterious sushi bar preaching a “sea to table” concept. This chef’s table by Natakorn “Tum” Changrew takes some finding, tucked away as it is in the sprawling, lakeside Vapor restaurant. You step through a glass door into a closet-sized room where lapping waves projected onto the wall give the feeling of being underwater, before another sliding door deposits you before a sleek marble sushi bar that seats only 12. Gentle curves awash in a golden glow create a calming environment in which to enjoy an omakase-style meal. What differentiates Kaijin from the wave of Japanese sushi imports touting market-fresh produce from the homeland is a focus almost entirely on fish caught in Thailand's waters. Not only that, but Tum and his team journey out to sea on an almost weekly basis to bring back a haul of hook-caught fish, where the aim is quality over quantity. “My initial intention was to showcase produce from the sea, not just Thailand, that’s been carefully caught and kept in a proper, well-cared-after manner—to show how much better it tastes this way,” Tum said. To get a better grasp of what he means, we spent a day following him to experience the whole process leading up to when the delicate, minimal bites arrive at the table. Unfortunately due to a wild storm, we couldn’t follow Tum out to sea—typically he journeys to Pranburi, Chumphon and Phuket—but he did give us a tour of Nichada Thani’s vast lake to see huge specimens like Mekong giant catfish and hi-fin paroon sharks. In addition, he showed us the restaurant's many fish tanks full of fruits of the sea like sweetlip fish and mantis shrimp. Tum explained that Kaijin employs the ikejime method of slaughtering fish, an age-old Japanese tradition aimed at preserving texture and flavor. Demonstrating on a coral trout, he begins the process by inserting a spike directly into the fish’s hindbrain. This would usually happen as soon as a fish is caught. The action is completed quickly and painlessly in order to prevent the fish from releasing lactic acid throughout its body in times of stress or pain, which can result in a sour and “fishy” taste. Another cut severs the spinal cord, paralyzing the fish. After that, the fish is left to bleed out in ice-cold water to prevent bacteria from growing. Part of the appeal of dining at Kaijin is that there’s never a set menu. When it comes to ingredients, it’s luck of the draw. Cooking techniques also draw heavily on the whims of nature. For B2,500 per head, you get
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a 13-17 course meal that flits between fresh seafood and other dishes that have been put through an aging process to add another dimension of flavor. Should the week’s catch prove unsatisfactory, Tum says they are happy to be flexible. "We don’t push our agenda of having to use only fish caught from Thai seas. We don’t compromise on quality, so should the need arise we’ll order sashimi-grade fish from the Japanese market.” It’s not only when it comes to fish that Kaijin shoots for self-sustainability. The restaurant's own 17,600-sq-meter garden at the far end of the Nichada Thani village grows everything from house-staple vegetables to edible flowers, which also get put to use on the Vapor menu. Back in the restaurant, Thai-American sushi chef Niki Vongthong presides over the sushi counter to carefully roll out innovative sushi bites. The mains and appetizers, devised by Tum with the help of his kitchen team, almost all come with Thai twists—sweetlip fish in a subtle yuzu buttermilk broth that’s cut nicely by refreshing orange slices and the glassy taste of kampot oil; five-day-aged hang kew (croaker fish) served roasting inside a mound of hay with pickled bittermelon and nikiri; fresh slices of grouper topped with caviar, crispy mung beans and culantro sanbaizu oil. To go with, Tum himself shakes up glass after glass of similarly forward-looking cocktails. Primed with bartender experience from his now-closed Perfume bar in Thonglor, he whips out signatures like the Yuzu Mojito (B300), made with Lanna Thai rice spirit and liquid nitrogen mint leaves, which he says are not as bitter as their freshly smashed counterparts. The drink’s topped off with lightly-torched jasmine meringue and colorful smashed hibiscus flowers that’ve been frozen in, again, liquid nitrogen. If that all sounds quite experimental, that’s probably because Kaijin is very much a work in progress. “Right now, the restaurant only opens three days a week [Fri-Sun]. The rest of the time we’re in our lab brainstorming new ways to extract the most flavor out of the fish we’ve caught. We want to maintain a high quality of food while taking small steps in improving our service. We’re fairly new and want to get things right." If you’re seeking a dining experience that’s novel yet not at all pretentious, Kaijin ticks the boxes. Tum's uncompromising dedication to local ingredients is not only inspiring, but goes some way to proving that Thailand’s seafood can be every bit as desirable as those expensive imports. Kaijin, 39/1257 Samakkee Rd., Nichada Thani, 02-004-8127. Open Fri-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.fb.com/kaijinbangkok
7/5/19 5:20 PM
neighborhood | narathiwas 22-26
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 12, 2019
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Gallery Ver
Arno’s
Marabica Café
Off the Rails The area where Narathiwas meets Rama III may feel off the map for BTS-loving city dwellers, but a short BRT bus ride could land you in a laid-back, leafy hub of international restaurants and contemporary art galleries. By Raima Chakrabarti
The Oyster Bar
Coffee & Breakfast Start your day at the cozy Marabica Café (311/1 Sathu Pradit soi 19, 083-548-1478) and satisfy your sweet tooth with an iced caramel macchiato (B105) or a banana milkshake (B115). Get started on your five-a-day with fresh fruit (from B20) from the many street vendors dotted along the road from Tue-Sun. You’ll also find international chains from Starbucks (cappucino, B90) to The Coffee Club (Yuzu Cold Brew, B120).
Lunch & Dinner Meat lovers can head to the original Arno’s (2090/2 Narathiwas Soi 20, 02-678-8340) for pocket-friendly 45-day dry-aged rump steak at B1,500/kg, or grill some jou karubi beef (B320) at yakiniku restaurant Mamiya (311/2 Sathu Pradit Soi 19, 02674-1072). Vegetarians can get their fill of Thai cuisine at Seated
Souffle and Me
(297 Narathiwas Rajanagarindra 24, 061-459-8255) with a vegetable Thai green chili hot soup (B180) or a mushroom and tofu pad kaprao (B180). If you’re craving Chinese food, stop by Chuan Wei Fang Sichuan Restaurant (297 Narathiwas Soi 24, 02-674-2973) for aromatic fried chicken with dried Sichuan chilis (B320) and snapper with pickled cabbage (B560). For something fancier, The Oyster Bar (95 Narathiwas Soi 24, 02-212-4809) serves smoked oyster pasta (B450), while Iron Chef Thanunya “Gai” Kaikaew whips up a one of a kind menu of souffles at the bright and airy Souffle and Me (417 Narathiwas Soi 24, 090-978-0442)—try the delicious Tang Thai (Thai cantaloupe) soufflé with coconut ice cream (B220).
Drinks This is no hotspot for nightlife, but you can always enjoy a bottle
of soju (B250) alongside some Korean fried chicken (B200) at ChiMac House (1/F Tower4 Forturn Condo, 315/401 Narathiwas Soi 24, 083-754-4608), or stop for some casual cocktails (B220) at Fusion Bar (395/2 Narathiwat Soi 24, 02674-0624).
Transport BRT Thanon Chan (fares from B1220) is just a five minute walk or two minute win motosai ride away.
Accommodation Close to BRT Thanon Chan, Belle Park’s (377 Sathu Pradit Soi 19, 02129-1378) 95 units are available to rent for B24,000-B30,000/month; Bangkok Garden Apartment (289 Narathiwat Soi 24, 02-6720001) has units from B65,000/ month; and Narathiwas Hotel & Residence (379 Narathiwas Soi 24, 02-210-9500) offers two-bedroom units from B54,000/month.
Visit Treat yourself at Orchid House Spa & Massage (315/203 Sathu Pradit Soi 19, 02-674-2589) with a Deluxe Facial Treatment (B800) and a relaxing aromatherapy massage (B800), or spruce up your hair with a shampoo and blowdry combo (B250-B500) at Scintilla Salon (Sathu Pradit 19 Alley, 02-6740797). There’s plenty of culture to be enjoyed too, from a visit to the stunning Chinese temple Wat Pho Man Khunaram (323 Sathu Pradit Soi 19), to gallery hopping between the neighboring Gallery Ver (10 Narathiwas Soi 22, 089988-5890), La Lanta Fine Art (3/F, 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Soi 22, 02-050-7882) and Artist+Run (2198/10-11 Narathiwas Soi 22, 099-454-5955).
BK ASKS
What do you love most about Narathiwas Soi 24?
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THANUNYA KAIKAEW, OWNER OF SOUFFLE AND ME “Wat Pho Man is well worth a visit, not only because of the long history of the temple, but also the beauty of the architecture and its decorations.”
DOEKE BONGA, GENERAL MANAGER OF CHATRIUM RESIDENCE SATHORN “It’s a nice quiet soi with all the conveniences someone could need: street vendors, restaurants, schools, sports options, easy access to the expressway and retail therapy within 10 minutes’ walk at Central Raama 3.”
VEERACHAI DATHIRUN, OWNER OF MARABICA CAFE “I think that Narathiwas 24 is a truly special soi, peaceful yet full of life. The diverse international community here provides a great vibe. You can find the most authentic Thai, Chinese, Indian, Korean and Western cuisines.”
7/5/19 5:22 PM
Photo by R-Haan
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