BK E-Magazine 767, Jul 26 2019

it's free!

Bangkok’s Tsukiji Check out the city’s Japanese fish markets Out of Office Freelance office tips that aren’t co-working spaces Mekong Meander Luang Prabang in two days Common People Thai folk meets political activism

Ban wobbly paving slabs NO. 767 JULY 26, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

How much longer does Bangkok's green lung have?

Cover-BK#767-26JUL2019_02_NEW.indd 1

7/19/19 4:22 PM

THE BIG ONE IS BACK! MARK YOUR CALENDARS!

12 - 29 SEPTEMBER

Sensi

R-HAAN

Bunker

Cantina

Gianni Ristorante

For Only B1,000* or B750*

3-Course Dinners at Bangkok’s Top Restaurants

Get a Complimentary Dish When Booking via Citi Credit Cards

Pre-booking for Citi credit card members opens August 6 Public booking opens August 13 100 MAHASETH = 3SAN = The 51 Tasty Moments = Above Eleven = Aesop’s Bangkok = Akira Back Ash Kickers Briskets & Bourbon = Babble & Rum = Billy’s Smokehouse = Blue Parrot = La Bottega di Luca = Brasserie 9 Broken Eggs = Bunker = CAGETTE Canteen & Deli = Cantina Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen = Cantina Wine Bar & Italian Kitchen = CARBAR La Casa Nostra = CHAR Bangkok = Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology = Da Vinci = Eats Payao Home-Bar & Kitchen Embassy Room = Enoteca Bangkok = Gianni Ristorante = Haoma = HISHOU = Indus = iO Italian Osteria = JUA = Karmakamet Diner Kisso = The Kitchen Table = KOI restaurant = Lelawadee Restaurant = The Local by Oam Thong Thai Cuisine = Ma-Ke` Inu The Meatchop Butcher & Spirits = Medici Kitchen & Bar = Mexicano = The Missing Burro = Penthouse Bar + Grill = Peppina Pizza Massilia Ruam Rudee = Pizza Massilia Sukhumvit = Punjab Grill = Rainforest Rooftop Bar = Rang Mahal = R-HAAN Scarlett Wine Bar and Restaurant = Siam Soul Cafe = SEEN Restaurant & Bar Bangkok = Sensi Restaurant Shirokane TORI - TAMA Bangkok = SIam Tea Room = Soba Factory = SOMTAM & Chardonnay Restaurant = TAAN

Visit bkrestaurantweek.com to see the amazing restaurants taking part

#BKRW2019 #bkrestaurantweek

Co-Sponsors

Alcohol Sponsors

Official Reservations Partner

*All prices are exclusive of 10% booking fee and 7% VAT.

full page3.indd 2

7/19/19 4:27 PM

page 3

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

04

Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Sub-Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

Bangkok's political folk group fighting for change

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama

Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

The controversial appointment of an academic with an untarnished record of public service by the People’s Patently Ridiculous Party (or whatever) is being challenged by a consortium of Thai businesses who were promised gross corruption from all ministries following the 2019 election.

06 cover

Saving Bang Kachao

“We were told to only expect ministers ranging from highly corrupt to wanted overseas,” commented the president of Badgas Co. Ltd., a petroleum company with a long history of winning government contracts using laughably noncompetitive bids. “So far it looks like PPRP have managed to place corrupt or at the very least incompetent officials in pretty much every department except this one, so we’re confused how this could’ve happened.”

SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Chayanid Udomrattanasirichai, Chutima Adulchitt, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Lalana Plangsombat, Naruenet Phothet, Paphawee Akkaragumtorn, Raima Chakrabarti, Sasin Imla, Suthivas Tanphaibul, Tanaporn Pongpeng, Thanicha Worapanyanan, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon

12

Asia City Media Group

travel

Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)

48 hours in Luang Prabang

Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Where to find us!

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

14

17

open doors

taste test

Chu Chinese

Veggie burgers

bkmagazine.com

contest, updates, stories

facebook.com/bkmagazine

latest news and trends

@bkmagazine

PPRP tried Thursday afternoon to downplay the controversy, drawing media attention to other ministers implicated in multi-billion-baht embezzlement scandals and international drug trafficking charges. But their efforts were undermined as press interest in the new minister’s squeaky clean past intensified.

“We tried to push through a couple of 4K TVs with HTC Vive Pro VR headsets—you know, the cable-free ones with roomscale tracking—but he just asked what we need them for and took them out,” the employee continued.

23

BK tracked the new minister down to a modest family home included in his asset declaration. Asked for comment, he mumbled something about transparency, effective law enforcement and public interest.

neighborhood

get in the loop

Thai political analysts also challenged the out-of-character new appointment. “The junta greatly increased Thailand’s corruption after the 2014 coup. Our Transparency International grade dropped to 36/100 (which is very corrupt indeed) at just the beginning of this year,” said one expert. “If we want to remain competitive with Cambodia and Malaysia, we simply can’t put professional people with strong moral compasses in government.”

“We worked together for eight years, the guy is as straight as an arrow,” commented one former employee, who says they once personally witnessed the minister work tirelessly to ensure transparent bidding for a lucrative public transport contract. The same employee said they had seen the minister submit invoices at verified market prices for departmental office supplies.

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

Non-corrupt minister discovered in new cabinet (Bangkok) A newly appointed cabinet minister has come under scrutiny following reports he has no corruption scandals or international criminal convictions on his record.

Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom

03

Lat Phrao Soi 71

20 food

As of press time, the minister was rumored to be working on ways to open up the bidding for duty-free shops at airports, while probing concessions granted to the construction of unfinished highways from 30 years ago.

Fresh from Japan

see what’s happening

@bkmagazine

TOC-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 2

7/19/19 4:31 PM

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

04

HOT OR NOT

MARIJUANA

Bangkok's political folk group fighting for change

Thailand’s first batch of legal cannabis oil rolls out at the end of this month, and we bet that shit’s good. Too bad the dodgy pharmacy on Patpong cleaned up its act (not that we ever went there).

Now all we need to do is find a friend with glaucoma, or seizures, or inflammatory bowel disease. Anyone?

Jay Dethdittharak (center) with bandmates Pai Boonpattarasaksa and Kaew Sai Phukaew

INTERVIEW

On Jun 29, The Commoner headlined a concert to mark the 87th anniversary of constitutional monarchy in Thailand, organized in collaboration with hospitalized political activist Sirawith "Ja New" Seritiwat. We met with vocalist and guitarist Chuveath “Jay” Dethdittharak to discuss the challenges of creating and performing politically conscious material in Bangkok.

“Since 2014, we have been living in constant fear” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

Upfront-BK#767-26JUL2019.indd 4

How was the atmosphere during your Jun 29 concert on Ratchadamnoen Avenue?

At first, the atmosphere was a little bit somber as all members were worried about being the target of an attack, because pro-democracy activist Pai Dao Din [Jatupat Boonpattarasaksa, the Khon Kaen University student imprisoned in 2016 for sharing BBC Thai’s biography on the king] had just been released from prison.

However, the tension subsided as we saw the audience was able to have fun.

Was there any police and military presence?

Yes, there were uniformed police and military at the venue to observe and provide security.

What is your relationship to Ja New? We were both activits in our universities. Though I barely knew him, I regularly saw him around and appreciate the urgency in his efforts to appeal to Thai democracy. Frankly, the brutal attack on Ja New didn’t initially make a big enough impact on society, and prompted no official government response. It was almost swept under the rug, but social media has helped shine a light on the issue. The uproar in response to the attack shows that the level of distrust toward the government in Thailand is growing.

How did The Commoner form?

Kaew Sai [also vocals and guitar] and I met in 2011 when we were volunteering for the flood relief efforts at Komol Khemtong Foundation.

Actually, during my time at university, I had a band called Saleung. Although Kaew Sai wasn’t an official member, he played cajon [a percussion instrument] for my band at all our events. After graduation, I wanted to keep the band going and changed the name to The Commoner. Then I met

Pai [phin, a traditional Thai stringed instrument], who was also a volunteer at Komol Khemtong Foundation and asked him to join the band.

THE BAHT The baht is strong.

And that, ladies and gentleman, is bad. OK, not for your savings, or your salary, or your next Colette shopping spree in Paris, but for rice exports, which have fallen by 12 percent as the Chinese start switching to Vietnamese stock while selling their own lesser-quality stuff to Africa. And no amount of Bangkok restaurants touting sustainable local produce are going to save us from that.

What does your group stand for?

Democracy begins at home and everyone, whether they are disabled or homeless, should have the equal opportunity to have their voices heard and have the right to self-determination.

Did the attack on Ja New make you afraid to perform at the concert?

No. Since the military coup in 2014, we have been living in constant fear. It can’t go further than that. We don’t want to live in a country where we can’t express our opinions or fear meeting people as we’re afraid of being arrested, so holding a concert is a creative political activity to raise our voices.

What is the meaning of the song “Someday”?

It was reported that you wrote it for Ja New? Actually, this song isn’t written for Ja New alone.

I wrote this song in order to give support to all activists who are threatened by the government and suffer from depression or are cut off from their families.

Tell us about your song-writing process?

We take one to two days to write a song and compose a melody, and are inspired by Thai political issues. For example, we rewrote the song called “We Are Friends,” which was inspired by the situation where 14 Thai students were arrested for holding anti-junta protests. And we have numerous unreleased songs in our vault.

LAT PHRAO The BTS has arrived.

Well, sort of. The new BTS Ha Yaek Lat Phrao station (see page 10) opens Aug 11, bringing Lat Phrao’s cheap rents (for now) and easygoing, pretension-free beer bars within easier reach of the city center than ever before.

Read about two of our favorite streets in the area on page 23.

DRESS CODES Education? Infrastructure? The economy?

No. Top on Palang Pracharath’s agenda for debate is how Future Forward members should dress for parliament. And we get it.

The two-tone gradient trouser suit thing is just so two seasons ago. We vote Art Araya for house speaker to make sure this never happens again. Then we can get started on healthcare.

Chayanid Udomrattanasirichai

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

7/18/19 3:17 PM

P.5 Habitat.indd 2

7/18/19 4:57 PM

cover | green lung

Why new rules to help preserve Bangkok’s green lung might have the opposite effect.

By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

L

ush coconut palms, wild mangrove trees, faded stilt houses, charming Buddhist temples, quaint walking trails and elevated bike paths winding through a bamboo jungle and over water canals—welcome to Bang Kachao, a hidden green oasis of calm right in the heart of Bangkok.

Sitting just across the Chao Phraya River from Klong Toey, this 16-sq-kilometer (12,000-rai) artificial island often referred to as Bangkok’s “green lung” has long countered the capital’s carbon output (see box, page 8), and was established as a protected conservation area back in 1992. Fast forward to Feb 28, 2019, and the Thai government has issued a new environmental control law to preserve Bang Kachao as an environmental landmark, with all its six sub-districts—Bang Namphueng, Bang Kachao, Bang Yo, Bang Krasob, Bang Ko Bua, and Song Khanong—to become a protected area.

All these strict laws set by the government make it seem like things are heading in the right direction, but Bang Kachao business owners say they’re receiving mixed signals. Skyrocketing land prices mean that locals are selling up at a quicker rate than ever before, while booming numbers of tourists have also brought other challenges including waste management, water pollution, traffic jams and blocked waterways.

The fight to preserve Bang Kachao is underway.

CoverStory-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 6

7/19/19 4:39 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, 26 JULY, 2019

07

“ WHEN OUTSIDERS COME TO BANG KACHAO, THEY GET THE IMPRESSION OF A GREEN OASIS ” Khwan “Pond” Malithong, local cycle tour guide

The Law Urbanization Given its abundant space and unique location—safe from potential flooding and close to downtown Bangkok—Bang Kachao is considered one of the city’s most valuable assets in the eyes of property developers. As the island rapidly transforms into an urban zone, many local residents are cashing in on their land.

“I know someone who just sold their eight-rai plot for around B45 million. They had a 126-sq-meter plot of land in total, each plot costing around B13,000-14,000,” says Khwan “Pond” Malithong, a 30-year-old local bicycle tour guide who has lived in Bang Kachao his whole life.

“You can expect to pay at least B25,000 up to B40,000 per square meter if the land is close to the main road. The closer the plots are to the main roads, the more expensive they become. By comparison, the plots that are deeper into the island are much cheaper, costing around B13,00015,000/sq meter.”

Born and raised in Bang Kachao, Pond says he worries about how urbanized the area has become. “When outsiders come to Bang Kachao, they still get the impression of it being a green oasis based on the volume of trees and wild vegetations they see. But in reality, many locals feel that the area is not what it used to be. Ongoing deforestation is happening to make way for new properties. For the last two to three years, I’ve seen so many construction sites and new roads built. If you visit the outskirts of Bang Kachao, you’ll see what I mean.”

This has also led to a reduction in the number of agricultural workers, most of whom are now elderly. “Nowadays, young Bang Kachao residents all go to Bangkok to work,” explains Pond. “Hardly any of them want to do farming. It’s sad to see that the people who want to live here are outsiders, while original residents want to move out.”

Goustan Bodin is one such outsider. A French landscape architect and permaculturist, he has made Bang Kachao his adopted home for the past year, where he runs local environmental tours. He also voiced his concerns about Bang Kachao. “Since land prices here are much cheaper than Bangkok, you have a lot of outsiders who want to settle down and build stuff. But they’re not local people. They know nothing about plants, animals or the importance of farming; they don’t care. In my opinion, this place needs very strong protection. There will be no green space left within 10-15 years, except for the land that is protected by The Crown.”

A Natural Air Freshener

According to a 2011 study conducted by the Thailand Greenhouse Gas Management Organization and Kasetsart University’s Faculty of Forestry, Bang Kachao is capable of absorbing 6,000 tonnes of carbon dioxide annually and producing up to six million tonnes of oxygen per day.

CoverStory-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 7

Around 1,276 rai or 10 percent of Bang Kachao is woods, a newly opened eco-friendly cafe, event space owned by the Royal Forest Department, where agricul- and soon-to-be homestay, says, “I do understand the ture is encouraged and construction is prohibited. After government’s good intention of wanting to protect His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej declared Bang Kachao. But the laws that are written are so inhis wish for the island to be preserved, the Environ- flexible and impractical not just for business owners, mental Impact Evaluation Bureau under the Ministry of but also for those who want to build a home here.

“The new law states that you can only use 15 perScience, Technology and Environment purchased 564 plots of abandoned farmland—1,276 rai—and turned cent of the land you own for construction—how is this fair? As a result, many landowners here feel that they 148 rai into Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park.

Since then, three city plans have been imple- don’t have much choice to do anything with their land, mented in Bang Kachao. The 2001 version did not allow other than [leave it vacant]. The most they could do any buildings to be constructed in the “Green-White” when they run out of ideas is pour concrete on the zone, while the 2005 version allowed buildings to be ground and set up street food shacks. There should be constructed, although not over 200 sq meters. Build- more organizations coming in to give advice and set ings in the “Green” zone were limited to 10 percent of up guidelines for locals who want to set up small enthe whole area and, in order to stop housing estates terprises, especially on how to make their businesses from being built, landowners were not allowed to sell sustainable and in tune with the island’s environment.

“When I built Hiddenwoods, the old city plan was their land. still being applied, which The controversial 2013 allowed for buildings of up Samut Prakan city plan to 25 percent of the total allowed for more construcarea, 200 sq meters in size tion. Questions linger over and 12 meters in height. the legitimacy of the reThe land I have is pretty big, drafting process, which loso the 25 percent bit was cals claim was carried out still a generous size for me. without their consultation Plus, I followed all the rules and leaves room for develaccording to the law, so I opers to take advantage of didn’t have any problems ambiguity. building this place. The same The major amendment to would not be true now.” the plan concerned two land Panya “Man” Temkamkwan, architect Man suggests that if the categories: the “Green” zone, and owner of Hiddenwoods government really wants which is a protected conserBang Kachao’s tourism to vation area, and the “GreenWhite” zone (the vast majority of the island), which is thrive, they should draft a new a rural and agricultural area. Regarding the Green zone, law that allows people to set up landowners are now allowed to sell their land, meaning businesses that support visitors’ they could sell it to a developer. The 2005 plan states needs. “Tourism is still growing, that up to five percent of the “Green-White” zone could but most visitors who come here be used for “other purposes” (aside from growing crops) are day-trippers. Many want to and buildings not exceeding 200 sq meters could be con- stay the night here, but feel like structed. Under the new plan, however, the constructible they don’t have a lot of accommodation choices. Hozone has been extended to 15 percent.

The Department of Public Works and Town tels are banned, meaning and Country Planning of Samut Prakan states the the only accommodation changes to the “Green” zone are to support a sustain- allowed is four-room able community model, allowing locals to build homes homestays. In this day and small businesses, and to actually alleviate their and age, there are so need to sell land to investors and move out. Mean- many types of accomavailable, while, the changes to the “Green-White” zone have modation been made because, in effect, the old law had already from Airbnb, boutique been broken: already over 10 percent of the land has hostels to bed and been used for other purposes and capping it at five per- breakfasts. I’m plancent would automatically prohibit locals from building ning for Hiddenwoods to have an accommoany houses.

The environmental control law of Feb 28, 2019, dation space as well, strictly bans the construction of new commercial prop- but probably not 100 erties such as factories, hotels, shophouses, piers and percent a homestay. golf courses. It also states that no buildings can be con- What laws would be able structed on state-owned land. Any buildings built must to support me then?” not be taller than nine meters, except for “Thai-style” buildings, which can be as tall as 12 meters.

Not everyone thinks these rules are practical. Panya “Man” Temkamkwan, architect and owner of Hidden»

“ THERE SHOULD BE ADVICE AND GUIDELINES FOR LOCALS WHO WANT TO SET UP SMALL ENTERPRISES ”

7/19/19 4:39 PM

cover | green lung perfect day

don’t miss these five bang kachao attractions

Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery

Opened in 2009, this museum claims to be the only Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery in the world. It displays a wide variety of Fish including species found in the Chao Phraya River.

Waste Management There’s another issue: tourists. Sukit Plubchang, ecoThe island is fighting against a wave of garbage coming from the Chao Phraya River, while some land areas have become dump- activist and founder of the environmental conservation group Lumsites. Polluted waterways and debris clogging up canals harm the phu Bang Krasob, highlights how tourism has heightened Bang health of locals, and also endanger the long-standing local fruit Kachao’s waste management concerns. “Every weekend, garbage bins here overflow with trash. The more tourists who come, the farming businesses.

On Jun 18 this year, in an effort to help reduce the amount more plastic waste we get. It would be very much appreciated of marine waste in Bang Kachao, the Department of Marine and if tourists were more mindful about the things they throw away here in Bang Kachao,” he says.

Coastal Resources (DMCR) together with Even so, Sukit believes that Bang the Ministry of Natural Resources and Kachao’s waste problem starts with its Environment, the Tourism Authority of people. “Right now GC (PTT Global ChemThailand and Bang Namphueng Sub-disical Public Co., Ltd.) and conservation trict Administrative Organization, Samut group OUR Khung BangKachao are orgaPrakan province, launched a project to set nizing a nationwide waste management up 250-meter-long clean-up booms (nets competition called ‘Waste Runner 100 made to trap trash) at the mouth of the Day Challenge’ to find the team with the Chao Phraya River around Bang Kachao. best business model to help tackle the isAs reported by the National News Buland’s waste issue. But at the end of the reau of Thailand, the DMCR has set up 10 day, I don’t think we should always wait clean-up booms in 10 pilot areas out of Sukit Plubchang, eco-activist and over 700 canals and more than 100 rivers. founder of environmental conservation for help from these big CSR groups. We should build more awareness in the comThe efficiency of these clean-up booms group Lumphu Bang Krasob munity about plastic waste consumption. will be studied for further developments We need to come together and help promote sustainability. before they expand to other areas.

“For example, there should be water coolers installed along Samnao Rassamithat, president of the Bang Namphueng Sub-district Administrative Organization, claims the amount of gar- bike routes for cyclists to refill their water. I’ve just set up a water bage has lessened since the clean-up booms were installed by the cooler outside my house, and I’ve already noticed a few cyclists government and private sector, while local authorities have cam- dropping by. It’s a small start, but it’s something we should all help promote.” paigned for a reduction in the use of plastic bags and styrofoam.

“ EVERY WEEKEND, GARBAGE BINS HERE OVERFLOW WITH TRASH ”

The Eco Route Amid these changes, ecotourism is being touted as a positive way to help save Bang Kachao from losing its verdant landscape, peaceful atmosphere and rural way of life. Many conservation groups host events and activities to help preserve the environment and promote a sustainable future for the island, with some local community people actively joining in.

The Rak Kung Bang Kachao conservation group is a big player in gaining local community participation with its various eco-friendly activities throughout the years. They have teamed up with The Big Trees Project, an environmental volunteer and advocacy group, to replant trees near canals in Bang Ko Bua or hold cycling sightseeing tours while tasting local dishes.

Sidney Jhingran, a travel specialist who works in ecotourism and also partners with Bang Kachao locals to support cycle trips, suggests that farmstays and agro-tourism are the two most promising avenues for tourism development.

“They both have the benefit of retaining traditional ways of life. Some farms here already offer accommodation, bicycles, as well as selling herbal and traditional products while hosting agricultural learning activities, such as learning how to produce coconut sugar,” says Sidney. “Growing trees in an agroforestry farm and learning how to cook traditional meals also look promising. These activities could be linked together, as has been done in places like Tha Kha, Amphawa and Nakhon Chai Sri.” Another route that Sidney suggests is more controversial: ecotourism resorts. “Hotel and resort developers have the potential to outbid other types of developers for large pieces of land. Rather than being turned into housing estates or factories, sustainable hotel planning could create eco-resorts that are in tune with the surrounding environment. Bangkok Tree House is one example of this. The concept could be taken further.

Imagine a brand like Six Senses coming in and creating an eco-retreat right

CoverStory-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 8

next to Bangkok. With the right kind of planning and local involvement, I see potential in this.”

Opened in late-2011, the stylish yet eco-friendly Bangkok Tree House is Bang Kachao’s best-established accommodation and tourist hotspot. With its solar powered rooms and use of organic materials and upcycled garbage in the hotel's construction, this popular green retreat claims to be fully committed to “the greenest of green travelers.”

“This place was designed to blend in with nature, while also having a unique and modern appeal,” explains Tanaporn “Namfon” Wittayasiripaiboon, manager of Bangkok Tree House. “We try to be sustainable by using as many natural materials as possible. All our walkways are made of recycled wood, and we try to surround ourselves with lots of trees to cool the air. As for waste management, all our kitchen and organic waste are composted, while used cans and plastic bottles are sold to give local collectors some income. Right now, we are also planning to become a certified green restaurant.”

For now, this green lung is still breathing. But for how long? The local government needs to show leadership and give a clear vision for Bang Kachao.

Do they want to preserve it like a national park?

Turn it into a tourist destination like Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay or open it up to developers to give visitors more things to do with more accommodation options? Currently the island runs the risk of creating uncertainty for locals and business owners, while hindering tourism.

8/1 Moo 3, Soi Wat Rat Rangsan, 090-323-9159.

Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm.

Free admission.

Sri Nakhon Khuen Khan Park and Botanical Garden

Cycle around the abundant green space while taking in scenic views of the lake and resident bird species.

73 Soi Wat Rat Rangsan, 02-461-0972.

Open daily 5am-7pm.

Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market

Shop, eat and chill at this local and tourist hotspot. Expect local food, desserts and fruits all at very cheap prices. You can rent a small wooden boat for around B20.

Soi Bua Phueng Phatthana, 02-461-3254.

Open Sat-Sun 8am-4pm.

Wat Bang Nam Phueng Nok Temple

Refuel on drinks and snacks while admiring ancient murals from the late-Ayutthaya period at this century-old temple situated at on riverfront.

10 Moo 1, Bua Bueng Pattana Rd., Bang Nam Phueng Nok.

Baantoop (Herbal Joss-Stick Home)

Learn how to make DIY herbal incense joss sticks and tiedye fabrics. Classes cost B60 per person.

Appointment is recommended.

22 Moo 3, Soi Petchhueng 52, 02815-0729. Open Sat-Sun 9am-3pm.

7/19/19 4:39 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

11 9

OVER BEERS

5 after-work spots in Bangkok to visit on rainy days

Charm Eatery and Bar (Ratchakru)

Cantina Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen

Changwon Express

Arno's

Lon Lon Local Diner

Charm Eatery and Cantina Pizzeria & Changwon Express Arno’s Bar (Ratchakru) Italian Kitchen Changwon Express is quite W h e n Fre n c h The lively Charm Eatery and Bar might look like a casual Thai restaurant from the outside but actually feels more like a bar. A local live band plays Thai ‘90s pop tunes, while big group tables make just as much noise.

The menu spans drinking snacks to serious curries and chili pastes. It’s open till midnight daily, they also have generous 5-9pm happy hour deals and live music.

Grab a pint of Singha for B190 Charm Eatery and Bar (Ratchakru), Ari Soi 5 (Paholyothin), 02-279-8991.

Open Mon-Fri 11pm-3pm, 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11pm-midnight Brought to you by Singha Food

A modern, industrial venue with exposed, rustic brick walls and archways serves Neapolitan style pizza made from fermented dough that has been kneaded and left to rise slowly for 48 hours.

Go upstairs to find a larger yet cozy space that is perfect for an afternoon coffee or a team dinner. Get the diavola pizza (B380) comes topped with mozzarella, spicy Italian salami, black olives, and basil to share with coworkers while sipping on Singha bottled beer (B120).

26/3 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02821-5113. Open Sun-Thu noon-midnight; Fri-Satnoon-3am. BTS Nana

the oddity. This yellowpainted spot mere steps away from MRT Petchaburi (Exit 3) pairs beers with trending Korean-Mexican fusion cuisine. The food, created by the owner himself, has its charms: nachos, tacos and hot dogs with Korean twists (B160-200), plus standard Korean fare like bibimbap (mixed rice, B160-80). Beers also come at pocket-friendly prices, with comforting choices like Singha beer on tap (B100/ glass).

37 Asoke Din Daeng Rd., 092-251-8661. Open MonSat 5pm-midnight. MRT Petchaburi

Lon Lon Local Diner

butcher Arnaud Carre opened his doors he hit upon an unbeatable recipe: wellcooked steaks at reasonable prices. Servers will whisk you into the adjoining butcher’s shop before even showing you to your table, where you choose your meat from a display cabinet of cuts ranging from tomahawk at B1,400/ kg up to the 70 to 100 days dry-aged tenderloin at B3,900/kg. Singha bottled beer available at B120.

Tucked inside Trinity Silom building, this restaurant represents the best of Bangkok street food culture with its tasty khao tom (Thai steamed rice soup), a famous late-night dish for party-goers. The venue has a lively, retro vibe thanks to pink and blue walls, round hanging lamps, and cactus trees spread around. Make sure you try the khao tom with stir fried minced pork and Chinese black olives. Grab a bottle of Singha for B130.

186/1 Soi Suanplu, 02-2863008. Open daily 11am10pm. MRT Lumphini

G/F Trinity Silom Hotel, Silom soi 3, 097-231-6968.

Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10pm. MRT Silom

hit list | 23 new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

10

01

The BTS is coming to Lat Phrao this Mother’s Day TRANSPORT

After 20 years, Mo Chit will no longer be the terminal station at the northern end of the BTS Skytrain’s Sukhumvit Line as of Aug 11.

The opening of BTS Ha Yaek Lat Phrao begins the roll out of a 19km northern extension that has been under construction since 2015. The extension will eventually cover 16 stations, including Ha Yaek Lat Phrao, Phahonyothin 24, Ratchayothin, Sena Nikhom, Kasetsart University, Royal Forest Department, Bang Bua, 11th Infantry Regiment, Wat Phra Sri Mahathat, Phahonyothin 59, Sai Yut, Saphan Mai, Bhumibol Adulyadej Hospital, Royal Thai Air Force Museum, Yaek Kor Por Aor and Khu Khot. According to Surapong Laoha-Unya, chief operating officer of Bangkok Mass Transit System Plc (BTSC), four more stations—Phahonyothin 24, Ratchayothin, Sena Nikhom and Kasetsart University—will open in December this year, while the rest of the extension from Bang Bua to Khu Khot will not be open until Dec 2020. Like the rest of the BTS Skytrain’s Sukhumvit Line, or the Green Line, fares for the new northern extension will be capped at B65.

THE BIG ISSUE

What are retailers doing about plastic?

The Mall Group • Disposable plastic bags no longer free at all shopping malls and supermarkets • B1 charged per plastic bag • Get up to 200 “M Points”

Central • Customers who say no will be provided with paper bags • No plastic bags provided on the 4th of every month at Tops Supermarket and Tops Food Hall • Get up to 40 “The 1 Card” points

Tesco Lotus • No plastic bags provided on the 4th of every month • No plastic bags offered at 8 branches • Get up to 50 “Clubcard” points

Big C • No plastic bags provided on every Wednesday and the 4th of every month • “No Plastic Bag Lane” • Get up to 200 “Bigcard” points

ShoppingNews-BK#767-26JUL2019.indd 10

SHOPPING

FITNESS

CAMERA

02 Siam’s favorite all-pink

03 Asoke’s 24-hour fitness

04 Meet Leica’s new

multi-label store has a towering new space

club will get you toned without breaking a sweat

If you thought Matchbox’s all-pink, three-story shophouse on Siam Square Soi 7 was big, check out its new flagship. Dubbed Matchbox Grande, the multi-label streetwear store’s towering third branch carries more than 3, fashionable items from 130 Instagram Thai designer brands. The first and second floor feature trendy everyday pieces, chic workwear, hip bags and shoes from brands like Her24 (B750 for jeans), Longdoshop (B290 for tote bags) and Melomotel (B1,690 for blazer and trouser set). A cafe is set to open soon on the third floor. Siam Square (Main Street), 086-7573968. Open daily noon-9pm

Imagine losing weight while lying down relaxing.

Sounds too good to be true right? Not according to “HYPOXI Training,” which uses patented vacuum technology to target fat and cellulite on the stomach, waist, hips, buttocks and thighs. Now offered at Jetts Fitness’ new 24-hour fitness club in Asoke, a session of HYPOXI only takes 30 minutes to shed off unwanted centimeters. Interested? From now-Jul 31, Jetts is giving a 10-percent discount on three HYPOXI packages. Membership costs B1,600/month or B16,800/12 months. 348/2 Sukhumvit Rd. (opposite Terminal 21), 063-850-3316. Open daily 24 hours

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT NORSE PROJECTS “CARSTEN PRINTED COTTON SHIRT” Button-up or button-down, this Hawaiian shirt is just downright cool (B5,190). Available at www.onionbkk.com

BIN IT “BOHO” ANKLE BRACELETS Trends come and go.

We want this one to go and never come back.

“budget-friendly” M series What: Leica M-E (Typ 240) Price: B126,000 Why? It’s the most affordable M-System rangefinder yet, coming in at half the price of the Leica M10-P (B245,000). The design features a top ISO of 6400 that puts image quality on a level with the Leica M10-P, 1080p Full HD video, and a handsome retro look of magnesium alloy in anthracite gray complete with a black leather trim. As with all Leica M-series models, it’s hand-built, dust-resistant and weather-sealed. Available at 2/F, Leica Store, Gaysorn Village, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1102. Open daily 10am-8pm

BARGAIN VERAPARIS “HALF MOON VERA” BAG Functional and minimally designed, this chic handbag (B7,250) is a great alternative to the Celine Box Bag.

7/18/19 3:28 PM

food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

11

ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Comforting Italian

Restaurants offering authentic Italian food Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen

How: Ochre walls, dark wood columns, oxblood tufted leather seats— the place is as conventional as can be. Food also aims for a traditional -yet-satisfying approach like the likes of homemade ravioli stuffed with foie gras and ricotta, to the Norwegian salmon cooked in a woodfired oven.

Ruamrudee Soi 2, Wireless Rd., 02-0010116. Open daily 11:45am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Pleon Chit

Get a complimentary tiramisu for 2 persons valued THB 280 when spending via Citi credit card (limit 1 dish /card / table /sales slip) 01 Mar ’19 - 28 Feb ’20

Red Sauce (Phuket)

How: Tucked inside Rosewood Phuket, eating at this restaurant feels like dining at a friend’s house with its open kitchen, green hanging plants, cozy sofas, and outdoor terrace overlooking Emerald Bay—perfect for a relaxing meal and some cigars after.

Pizza Massilia

How: Massilia’s Ruam Rudee branch jazzed up the homey vibe with fireplaces, baby-blue walls, and parquet floors that makes for an unusual setting to sit and eat wood-fired dishes. Pumped out of two massive ovens from Italy, the pizzas here are delicate and refined affairs that often bear extravagant toppings. To that end, try the Mortadella truffle option with organic tomato sauce, fior di latte mozzarella and black truffle sauce.

15/1 Soi Ruamrudee, Phloen Chit Rd., 02662-4478. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5-11:30pm. BTS Pleon Chit

Get a complimentary welcome drink and chef’s dessert valued THB 700 when spending via Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Preferred and Citi Select card members (limit drink 1 glass/ person and limit dessert 1 dish/ card/ table/sales slip)

Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen

01 Jan ’19 - 31 Dec ’19

Rosewood Phuket, Patong, 076-356-888.

Open daily 12-2:30pm; and 6-10pm

Get 20% discount on food and nonalcoholic beverages 01 Feb ’19 - 31 Jan ’20

Brought to you

by Citi

Pizza Masilia

Red Sauce (Phuket)

COUPLES RETREAT AUG 30 – SEP 1, 2019

THANYAPURA HEALTH AND SPORTS RESORT -- PHUKET

ALL INCLUSIVE WELLNESS WEEKEND WITH LUKE AND EMILIE TAN - SINGAPORE’S PLANT POWERED FITNESS COUPLE 2 NIGHTS ACCOMMODATION ALL MEALS BREAKFAST + PLANT BASED LUNCH & DINNER FITNESS TRAINING COOKING CLASSES WORKSHOPS SOCIALS

THB 26,000/COUPLE

BOOK NOW WWW.THANYAPURA.COM/COUPLES-RETREAT

CITI Feast-Of-Deal-BK#767.indd 11

7/18/19 5:04 PM

hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

NIGHTLIFE

05

They’re back!

Lany’s latest BKK gig is this weekend

DANGER: YADIN MOHA, INTRIGUANT & OUTFIT Spend Friday dancing to hot electronic beats from upcoming local talents. Jul 26, 10pm. Safe Room, 2/F, Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087061-1117. B300 including one drink.

BOMBYX STORIES RIDES AGAIN! Head to Surasak’s friendly dive bar for a night of spoken-word stories from BKK’s literati. Jul 26, 8pm. Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089-8898059. Free.

SONDER - NEON EDITION FT. JUANY BRAVO, B EVERITT & P REED Showcasing the finest local and international DJs, playing everything from underground house and techno to Afro beats. Free bar from 9-10pm. Jul 26, 9pm. Mustache Bar, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081-844-7080.

Free before 11pm, B300 after includes one drink.

CONCERT

A day without Lany is like a day without sunshine. At least it’s beginning to feel that way with how often the broody indie electro trio visit Bangkok. We’re not complaining. Past sold out gigs (yeah, this one’s all gone too) have been some of our favorite nights out in the past three years. Lany Malibu Nights World Tour will be at GMM Live House for two straight nights of hits like “If You See Her,” “Thick and Thin” and the eponymous “Malibu Nights,” natch.

Jul 29-30, 7pm. GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama I Rd., 02-6407000. B1,800-B2,800 (all sold out).

Toro y Moi

TOPROCK: “HIP HOP NIGHT FOR ALL HIP HOP HEADS” Old-school hip-hop and more from the golden era of breaks, soul and funk. Aug 2, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200.

CONCERT

EXHIBITION

06 A night with chillwave royalty is right around the corner

07 See Renaissance masterpieces rendered in stunning 3D in Bangkok

We’ve all been there. It’s a cool party.

There’s a cool song playing. You want to ask what the song is but you can’t because that would mean you don’t already know it—and that would not be cool. More often than not in 2019 that song was by Toro y Moi, otherwise known as electronic music producer Chaz Bear. The chillwave poster kid has six studio albums and countless more mixtapes out there, so go educate yourself before spending B1,600 via Ticketmelon.com for the upcoming Bangkok gig. Jul 30. Voice Space. BBD Building, 197 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02-261-3883.

RCB Galleria at River City Bangkok is back with another art multimedia project following the success of “From Monet to Kandinsky. Visions Alive.” Italian Renaissance takes on the Renaissance big guns—Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael and Botticelli—whose work will be brought to life with the world’s best 3D tech. Learn why these four men are responsible for a trajectory of Western artwork and thinking that still holds sway today—it’s the closest to visiting the Louvre you’ll get in Bangkok. Aug 8-Oct 31.

River City, 23 Trok Rongnamkeang, Yotha Rd., 02-237-0077-78.

Italian Renaissance

AMBAR POOL PARTY - AUGUST SESSION Cool off with a party by the pool featuring beats and fruit punch. Aug 3, 2pm. amBar, 8/F, Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3000. Free before 3pm for women and B300 including one drink after.

12

WHITEHORSE LIVE EP 1 One of Bangkok’s best-loved live music venues is back at its new home, presenting a live show by Muy Stang, Whatfalse and Taitosmith.

Jul 27, 10pm. Speakerbox, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). B350.

BK Pick HAPPENING FEST 2019: LIVE IN THEATRE Bangkok’s old Lido theater makes its comeback with a music festival. Live bands will be performing across all three of its theaters. Aug 3-4, 12pm. Lido Connect, Siam Square Soi 3, 02-2526498. B760 via www.happeningandfriends.com

BOMB AT TRACK CONCERT The Thai heavy metal band get some issues of their chest with their first ever concert.

Aug 3, 6pm. Voice Space, 197 BBD Building Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02-650-6000.

B800.

ART

EVIL OF GENDER Japanese artist Sakuya Aoyaki’s pop-art style and bold colors illuminate the many interpretations of gender.

T h ro u g h A u g 4 , 1 p m .

Changchui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 081-817-2888. Free.

SCREENING JAM CINE CLUB: IN THE MOOD FOR RAIN Throughout July, the weekly cinema night focuses on movies to soothe your soul during the rainy season. This week, Happy Together by Wong Kar-wai (1997). Jul 31, 8pm. Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089-889-8059. Free.

SALE AND FAIR

LIVE MUSIC

THAILAND FAST FEST 2019 A 10 -hour music festival showcasing fast melodic heavy rock music from 12 local bands and four from Southeast Asia. Jul 27, 2pm.

Brownstone, 1395 Sukumwit Soi 77, 085-483-7675.

B300-400.

OVER THE RAINBOW Selling everything artsy, crafty and handmade under a rainbow theme. Jul 27-28, 11am. 10House, 44 Vibhavadi Rangsit Soi 16, 089-465-6915. Free.

BIG CAMERA BIG PRO DAYS 12 THE SECRET LIFE OF PROS Shop for new cameras and gear with up to 70-percent discount. Through Jul 31, 8am. CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama I Rd., 02-640-7000.

Free.

READ THIS

ASIA’S BIGGEST BOOK SALE RETURNS— STILL OPEN ROUND THE CLOCK

Calendar-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 12

The 24-hour book Big Bad Wolf Book Sale returns to Bangkok once more, offering more than three million English-language books at heavily discounted prices for 11 days. Book-lovers, this is your chance to pore over fiction and non-fiction titles covering cooking, sports, graphic novels and much more, all at 60-80-percent discount. Aug 9-19, Hall 9, Impact Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd. Free

MILLION WIND PHILHARMONIC PLAYS MOUSSORGSKY A live symphony orchestra performance with special guest conductor from Hong Kong Victor Tam. Jul 27, 5pm.

Thailand Cultural Centre, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-2470013. Free.

BANGKOK FARMER’S MARKET AT HABITO MALL AUGUST 3 - 4 2019 Shop for organic produce, artisan breads, natural home and body care, natural clothing, handmade jewelry, arts and crafts. Aug 3-4, Habito Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 77, Sub-soi On Nut 1/1, 02-136-5932. Free.

7/19/19 4:45 PM

13

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

Where Will You Travel Next? uncovers the latest resorts, restaurants, shops and attractions across Thailand.

Out Sep 27, 2019

Book here

Want your business to appear in Hot Spots 2019?

Call: 02-624-9696 Email: advertising@asia-city.co.th

P.13 HotSpots.indd 13

7/19/19 4:47 PM

travel | lao

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

Lao Down

14

GRAND OPENING

Pullman Luang Prabang

How to spend 48 hours in the laid-back city of Luang Prabang. By Kankanok Wichiantanon

OVERVIEW: Situated on a 160,000-sq-meter plot of land, Pullman Luang Prabang is hugged by mountains, natural streams and rice paddies. It’s quite a distance from town, making for a perfect hideaway from the hustle-and-bustle of the city.

Kuang Si falls

Wat Xieng Thong

At Kuang Si falls, water cascades tumble in stages down a shallow rocky slope, creating a series of falls and pools. Hiking your way upstream to the 50-meter high waterfall will take you about 15 minutes. Don’t forget to pack your swimming suit.

The water is crystal clear but shallow, making for a perfect natural swimming pool. The entrance fee is around B60. To get there, you can either take a shared tuk tuk with other tourists for about B175 each, or rent your own for a round trip at B700.

Right at the waterfall’s entrance, there’s a small bear rescue center where you can watch a group of perky bears, some swinging on trees and some showing off their two-feet standing move. You won’t be charged a fee, but you can help with a small donation.

2pm:

Tak Bat

Day 1 We know it’s cliché, but Tak Bat, or alms giving, has been practiced in this part of the world since the 14th century. The sight of monks clad in saffron robes stands in stark contrast to the hazy, dim morning and will be sure to leave you feeling peaceful.

Avoid the tourists and head to the old quarter, where a handful of local shops sell buckets of steamy, sticky rice. Book a local guide to plan out the whole morning for you from hotel pickup, alms giving arrangements, temple visits and market shopping sprees. We recommend Focus Asia (price from B800).

6am:

There’s really no better way to experience Luang Prabang than to walk through its morning market set up next to Wat Mai in the Old Town. The chaotic crowd, the endless piles of exotic vegetables and street-food stalls are intriguing and filled with charm. You can come to this city with one purpose: to eat. There’s so much to try: the tasty grilled fish in banana leaves, assorted pork barbecue and sweet treats like coconut rice cakes.

7am:

Rent a bicycle (around B460/day) 10am: and explore Luang Prabang’s Old Quarter. The neighborhood, despite being packed full of guest houses and small boutique hotels, is surprisingly quiet and peaceful, free of the tourist hustle. The two-kilometer street, bordered by the Mekong River and lush greenery, is kept astonishingly clean with a strong sense of history (UNESCO ensures the architecture is preserved). Buildings of interest include the 16th century Buddhist temple, Wat Xieng Thong, with its meticulously carved walls and ornate glass mosaic gables.

Get off the beaten path for a quiet lunch by the river at Joy Restaurant, which churns out lip-smacking whole fried fish with crispy garlic (B160), lemongrass chicken curry (B160) and assorted larb dishes like duck, beef and fish, with bamboo and tofu for vegetarians (B105). The homey vibe and picturesque view of the Mekong River are hard

Noon:

TravelFeature-BK#767-26JUL2019-2.indd 14

Morning market

to find anywhere else. The restaurant is located on a small residential street, in a wooden house with only a handful of tables inside and on the river deck. The menu is made up of mostly homespun food with decent prices and large portions (from B70-B160).

Sample a huge range of Lao staples at Tamarind, a restaurant-slash-cooking school that’s known for its tasting-platter. They not only serve food, but also teach you the right way to eat it, like how to wrap up meuyang, a traditional snack of nuts, herbs and a sweet-salty glaze covered in betel leaves. They’ve got an extensive menu and if you’re not really sure what to order, get the appetizer samples (B530), or opt for the tasting menu at B1,484 for two-people.

6pm:

Day 2 Early in the morning, head to the 25-hectare Pha Tad Ke botanical gardens (www.pha-tad-ke.com), a first-of-its-kind for the nation which acts as a regional research center and living museum for Lao’s native flora. It’s a 15-minute boat ride from Ban Wat That, which departs every hour from 9am to 4pm. While you’re there, try one of the enticing workshops like bamboo handicraft, herbal tea tasting, gardening and studying medicinal plants. They also offer full-day tours like the Thin Pha Trail trek (B2,100) and World Heritage City Tour (B4,450). Entrance costs B890.

9am:

En route to Kuang Si waterfall, stop Noon: for lunch at a small house-restaurant, Carpe Diem. The place sits perched above its own private waterfall with a dining deck over a turquoise natural swimming pool. Guests are encouraged to jump in and you’ll see people digging hard into the food with their swimming suits on. The kitchen busts out traditional Lao classics, as well as Western faves. We recommend both. The pork larb (herbal minced pork salad) is superb, the mok (fish steamed in banana leaves with spices and herbs) is delicious and the ravioli is rich and comforting.

If you’re looking for a perfect sunset watching spot, head to Phou Si (meaning “sacred hill”). The highest hill in Luang Prabang located right in the town’s center, boasting a 360-degree view of the city, Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. However, to get to the top, you’re required to climb up over 300 steps through a narrow, brick staircase. It’s worth it. Crowning the hilltop is Wat Chomsi, a small Buddhist shrine in dazzling gold dating back to 1804.

Halfway up, take a break at Wat Tham Phousi, a small temple that rests inside a picturesque cave, where it houses a handful of Buddha statues. There are different sets of steps that you can take on the way down, with each leading to different temples.

The hill entrance fee is about B70 per person.

5pm:

Make Paste Laos your last meal in the city. The newly opened second branch of Paste by Asia’s Best Female Chef Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun sits inside The Apsara boutique hotel on the Nam Kham River. Dishes are inspired by traditional recipes noted down by great Lao royal chef Phia Sing in the early 20th century, featuring over 100 different wild ingredients that have been cured, pickled and fermented, like the crunchy fermented rice balls with sour sausage, kaffir lime zest and red curry paste, and stir-fried pickled cabbage, salt cured mushrooms, fermented onion shoots, smoked pork knuckle and white ginger flower vinegar.

Three tasting menus start from around B1,356 per person (minimum two people).

6pm:

ROOM: The smallest of the 123 rooms and suites is 42 sq meters, while the singular two-bedroom pool villa is 270 sq meters and features a garden that can fit up to 50 people. Rooms come in subtle earthy tones and heavy wood decor, set under warm light fixtures. With so much space, it really creates a luxurious feel. The bathroom is as big as the bedroom, complete with a walk-in closet, separate rooms for toilet and shower area; while in the center sits a tub and a long wooden bench.

DINING: The single restaurant is run by a Laotian chef, who busts out delicious traditional dishes, cooked using vegetables grown onsite, with no twist and no compromising on the heat. His sooppak (herbs and vegetables salad) and sai oo-ah (Loas’ version of sausage) are really something and great dipped in jaew (spicy chili relish). If you can’t stand the heat, go for his pumpkin soup for an equally delicious taste of the loca fare. Breakfast has enough variety to keep you happy—be careful of over-stuffing.

FACILITIES: There are three pools that come in three different sizes, a fitness lounge, two bars and an extensive spa surrounded by vast rice fields.

RAVE: Staying at the resort feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere, perched on a hill overlooking the lush-green mountain range that wraps around the property in a 360-degree view.

RANT: Wi-fi sucked throughout our stay. You’re also 20 minutes from the city.

PRICE: The 42-sq-meter room starts from B3,300 a night (price includes breakfast).

Essentials

Thai Smile (www.thaismileair.com) and AirAsia (www.airasia.com) start roughly at the same price, from B2,560 return; while Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) will set you back about B4,190 return.

1 THB = 285 LAK

7/18/19 3:47 PM

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

15

PHUKET

09 Get your beach bod

08

ready at Phuket’s new smoothie bowl spot

A new reason to visit Chiang Mai this winter

09

As more health-focused cafes pop up around Phuket, the island’s newest addition serves up smoothie bowls. Moku Bowl offers (www. facebook.com/mokubowls.phuket) frozen fruity treats in tiny cups. You can opt for their signature Moku bowl with acai as the smoothie base topped with mango, goji berry, coconut flakes and chia seeds (B129), or create your own bowl with other smoothie options like the Blueivy (banana, pineapple, spirulina powder, vanilla and almond milk) or the Cream-Nut (coconut cream, peanut butter and banana) and choose your own toppings (B99). There’s no space to sit, but there is a small bar by the shopfront to stop and enjoy your smoothie.

11

PHUKET

VIETNAM

10 Phuket’s new cafe-

11 Phu Quoc’s latest

The latest spot to hit Phuket town’s cafe scene is Our Nomad, a rustic establishment beneath a hostel of the same name. The kitchen specializes in traditional Hokkien and Phuket classics: braised barbecue ribs on a bed of rice (B160), fried pork buns (B35), yellow crab curry with fermented rice noodles (B140) and braised pork belly with mantou (B140). At the bar are cocktails like Drunken Master (B280), combining Chalong Bay rum, gin, beer, sprite and lime in a rustic Chinese jar. Private rooms start at B1,000.

183/73-183/74 Phang Nga Rd, 080-905-9962.

Open Thu-Tue 10am-midnight.

Best Western Premier Sonasea Phu Quoc boasts a whopping 566 rooms and a handful of Indochinese style luxury villas that run along a 300-meter-long pool, stretching all the way to a beachside pool bar (open from 11am). Standard rooms start at B2,500 per night. At B14,300/night for a presidential five-bedroom villa, you’ll have a private pool, wine cellar and karaoke room in the basement complete with an in-house chef. A threebedroom villa with a private pool comes in at VND6,791,000/night (B9,100). Other resort facilities include a sky bar, a restaurant, a spa and a gym.

slash-bar looks picture perfect

CHIANG MAI

Look closely at new Chiang Mai boutique hotel Little Shelter (www.fb.com/littleshelterhotel) and you’ll see traces of Lanna influence, from the wood shingles echoing the textures and colors of Chiang Mai’s city wall to the discreetly pitched roof. The 2019 Popular Winner at New York’s 2019 Architizer A+ Awards sits one the Ping River, where it offers sweeping views and 14 minimalist rooms featuring dazzling mirror-tiled walls.

Rates start at B3,060/night. Facilities include an all-white cafe, a restaurant specializing in Northern-fusion cuisine, a cocktail-wine bar, and a compact pool.

resort has a vast swimming pool

GUIDES Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life.

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

TravelNews-BK#767-26JUL2019.indd 15

7/18/19 3:49 PM

food & drink | news

16

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

HOT OF THE PASS

12

Little Market returns to Charoenkrung with a permanent pop-up

PHOMO Charoenkrung’s next-level nose-to-tail specialist, 100 Mahaseth, is set to bring its awesome pho to Thonglor in the coming weeks, with the launch of Pho Marrow. If the name’s anything to go by, we can expect a continuation of their creative dive in local offcuts. Stay tuned!

SMASH AND GRAB

Good news for burger lovers who are partial to awesome cocktails: Little Market has taken up a new permanent post at Tropic City. Since Little Market’s restaurant on Charoenkrung closed, fans have frantically been following their string of popups across town from CentralWorld to Smalls to Jua, eager to get a hit of their infamous smashed-patty Steakburger (B240): two 270-day grain-fed Aussie Angus patties sandwiched between a toasted bun with American cheese, pickles, onions and mustard. Get that and more, from the Philly Bird (chopped grilled chicken, melted cheese and onions on a toasted roll, B240) to the Loaded Tots (tater tots with cheese, sour cream, bacon and scallions, B200), all available during Tropic City’s regular hours. The venture comes from duo Chet Adkins and Jason Lang, whose modern izakaya Jua is located on the same street as Tropic City (named Bar of the Year in BK’s BAD Awards 2019). Tropic City, 672/65 Charoenkrung Soi 28, 083-838-2750.

Open Tue-Sat 7pm-2am; Sun 7pm-midnight

OLD MEETS NOW

BRIDGING HISTORY

WORLD’S APART

13 This 50-year-old ice cream shop is reinventing tradition

14 Learn Sukhumvit’s history with afternoon tea

15 The OG of fancy Bangkok food festivals turns 20

Tao Poon’s Thipparot Ice Cream has been delivering ice cream for almost half a century. After undergoing a chic renovation last year in the hands of the founder’s grandchildren, the shop’s menu is being treated to a similar old-meets-new approach. The Jatmongkol Jaruek (B119) is inspired by desserts dating back to the 17th-century reign of King Narai the Great, including flavors of basil, lod chong, bua loi and black sticky rice, while contemporary flavors like chocolate, vanilla rum and lychee sorbet have joined the traditional durian, coconut and Thai tea.

Bangkok-Nonthaburi Soi 2, 02-585-0415. Open daily 8am-8pm www.fb.com/thipparoticecream

To mark the launch of its permanent “Sukhumvit Gallery” exhibition, Hyatt Regency’s afternoon tea taking inspiration from the road’s rich history.

Located next to Market Cafe, the exhibit features rare photographs that tell the story of the road, vintage maps, and important documents covering the area’s history. Employing the help of Thai floral artist, Sakul Inthakul, the gorgeous tea set (B950/two-person set) recreates a photograph of a bridge on Ekkamai in flowers and more than a dozen bite-sized treats, from mini sweet potato scones to homemade macarons with pomelo custard filling. 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02098-1234. Served daily 2-4pm.

September is lining up to be a bumper month for food events in Bangkok. In addition to the second coming of BK Restaurant Week (this year with over 60 venues and three-course dinners from just B750), Anantara Siam has now announced the lineup for its annual World Gourmet Festival. This year’s event, held from Sep 2-8, features Kai Ho from Tairroir in Taipei, Wolfgang Becker from the two-Michelin-star Becker’s restaurant in Germany, and Richie Lin from Mume, Taiwan. Dinner prices start at B5,500. Make reservations at www.worldgourmetfestival.asia,.

Anantara Siam, 155 Ratachadamri Rd., 02-126-8866.

CHOCKABLOCK Calling all chocolate lovers! French chef and famed restaurateur Alain Ducasse will soon be bringing his ganaches, pralines, truffles, and bean-to-bar chocolates to Bangkok at Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse. Word has it that it will be located at Athena 23, near Central Chidlom.

SKY’S THE LIMIT King Power Mahanakhon recently unveiled its new sky-high dining concept, Mahanakhon Bangkok SkyBar. Located on the 76th and 77th floors of the iconic pixelated building, the restaurant serves Asian and Western dishes led by US-native executive chef Joshua Cameron.

Keep your eye out next issue for more.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

F&BNews-BK#767-26JUL2019-2.indd 16

“Amazon no. 1 for me” - FB USER CANDY RUEANGSRI ON BK’S CHAIN COFFEE TASTE TEST.

“Go early, always jam packed but what a great spot it is” - FB USER STEVEN JOHN ON BK’S JACK’S BAR VIDEO.

“Everything new in Bangkok looks like an apothecary” - FB USER JASON WOOD ON THE OPENING OF YEST WORKS COFFEE ROASTERY.

7/18/19 3:55 PM

food & drink |

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

17

Sensi

Taan

R.Haan

#BKRW2019

16 BK Restaurant Week partners with Bangkok’s best restaurants for 18 days of sensational offers The big one is back. From Sep 12-29, BK Magazine will be partnering with some of the city’s best restaurants for BK Restaurant Week 2019. For 18 days, we’re joining hands with over 60 restaurants to serve hundreds of special set menus starting from just B750++. Each set menu consists of a minimum of three courses (starter, main course and dessert), with an extra course for any diner who books using a Citi credit card. Tickets must be purchased online and are available on a pre-sale basis (Citi card members only) from Aug 6. General booking opens on Aug 13.

“An amazing opportunity to visit neighborhoods around the city and sample spectacular food for a reasonable price” The list of participants is a who’s who of Bangkok’s best restaurants, ranging from the hottest new local fine-dining restaurants like TAAN and R.Haan (1 Michelin star), to hip-yet-upscale bar-restaurants like Jua and Bunker, to glamorous five-star hotel flagships such as Penthouse Grill at Park Hyatt Bangkok and The Brasserie at Waldorf Astoria Bangkok. “In its debut year, BK Restaurant Week proved that it could offer sensational offers for diners at the city’s very best restaurants, while also supporting our creative and world renowned local food-and-beverage scene,” said Andrew Hiransomboon, Managing Director of Asia City Media Group. “This year, we’re working with even more restaurants, offering even more variety and cuisine types, and at even better prices. Most of the dinners for BKRW2019 cost B1,000++, which is already an amazing deal, but this year we’ll also be offering dinners of three courses and more for just B750++. You can’t beat it.”

Discover the full list of participating BK Restaurant Week venues at bkrestaurantweek.com.

INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume.

Specify which department you are applying for.

Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.

We create brand stories with influence studio.asia-city.com

Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

F&B News BKRW-BK#767-26JUL2019.indd 17

7/18/19 4:01 PM

food & drink | open doors

17 Chu Chinese hides cool secrets upstairs The buzz: Thonglor’s new Chinese khao tom place may look sweet and innocent, but it has a fully-stocked bar hidden upstairs featuring Chinese-themed cocktails.

The decor: From outside, you’d easily mistake this shop-house for just another mom-and-pop Chinese restaurant. Surrounded by simple, tiny dining tables and chairs, a prominent flight of stairs is the first indication that there might be more to it. Head up them and you’ll find an extravagant dining space filled with big, round retro Chinese tables.

Let your senses recover from the crazy open kitchen vibe and you’ll notice some neon lights on the other side of the room behind a glass wall. There, you will find a bar that feels as if it’s been transplanted straight out of Hong Kong, with cute laundry hanging by the window to complete the look.

The food: Chinese comfort dishes like bak kut teh served with patongo (B280) and Hokkien noodles with seafood (B190).

We love the stir-fried pig’s stomach with pickled mustard greens (B140). The yum khai khem (salted egg spicy salad, B100) is also well worth trying.

New+Noted-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 18

The drinks: Their signature cocktails stick to the theme. Try the Train To 2046 (B360) with Chinese flower-sous-vide rum, lemon and grapefruit bitters and bak kut teh syrup—it might sound weird but it tastes good, trust us. Those who love a negroni have to try As Tiger Goes By (B340), which sees gin infused with Eleven Tigers—a Chinese herbal medicine that’s often found in yadong —mixed with cinnamon-sous-vide Campari and Carpano Dry vermouth—this drink is guaranteed to wake you up with its strength and power.

The crowd: The young, hip Thonglor crowd and big Chinese families meeting for dinner.

The music: Classic Chinese pop.

Why we’d come back: The food is great and the drinks are even better. The owner has really made good use of the space and expanded Thonglor’s coolness beyond Soi 55. Angela Symons 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 061-0565636. Open daily 11am-midnight

Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get complimentary Iced Lemon Jelly valued THB 76.50 when spending THB 600 or more /sales slip 1 Aug ’19 – 31 Jan ’20

7/19/19 7:09 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

19

Holmes

NEW AND NOTED

18 China, Thailand and America converge on Thonglor

19 Taiwanese hot pots touch down on Thonglor

20 Channel Sherlock at this chic, multistory cafe and bar

Illuminated by its lucky jade green sign, 3SAN (78/5 Soi Sukhumvit 51, 02-005-4085) reinvents old-fashioned recipes with fine-dining flair in its culture merging menu. Enjoy the comforts of home, while touring through American and Chinese influences in dishes like seared duck breast with sweet potato, date and trumpet royale mushrooms (B390); foie gras wontons with shimeji mushrooms (B280); San's specialty fried pork over rice (B240); and tuna tartare with almond milk, red grape snow and puffed rice (B290).

Hanji (Thonglor Soi 23, 093-1253872) brings authentic Taiwanese hotpot to the heart of Thonglor in a space replete with swirling, smokelike murals and bamboo sculptures.

Besides the decor, Hanji differentiates itself from other shabu restaurants with its special fruit sauce, sliced green papaya soaked in passion fruit juice, which makes a refreshing aside to greasy cuts of meat. Indulge in the full-flavored Shimabara wagyu striploin (B940) and the tontoro (fatty) pork neck (B440) sourced from a farm in Chiang Mai, but be sure to leave space for their homemade pineapple ice cream.

Phaya Thai’s sophisticated Holmes (69/30 Phayathai Rd., 099-1694996) draws its inspiration from the infamous mysteries of Britain’s fictional detective Sherlock Holmes.

The luxurious black and gold facade of the five-story townhouse encloses an elegant cafe, bar and restaurant with decorative tiled floors and wrought iron stairs leading to a lightfilled glasshouse up top. Order the avocado toast (B290), creamy carbonara (B290) topped with a runny egg, or triple pork sliders with caramelized onions, cheddar cheese and avocado (B330)—perfect for sharing.

There’s also an array of cakes and coffee (Americano, B100) on offer, alongside a decent wine list (glasses from B260/bottles from B950).

Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 10% discount on food only (Only for Tuesday – Friday) 15 May ’19 – 30 Apr ’20

New+Noted-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 19

TABLE TALK

CPS Coffee M/F, Terminal 21, 063-494-4036. Open Mon-Fri 7am10pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10pm. BTS Asok (Exit 3) Thanks to bare concrete walls and liberal use of copper and blacks, CPS Coffee feels very in-the-moment. The baristas at this fashion store-turned-cafe counter specialize in coffee and cold-brew tea blends left to infuse for up to 12 hours— think flavor-packed combinations like the Chai Rosé & White Tea Lemonade, or the Green Tea Beehive. There’s also a respectable selection of croissants to tide you over until lunch.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount on beverage 01 May ’19 – 31 Oct ’19

7/19/19 7:09 PM

Birds Rotisserie

TABLE TALK

Summer Sault 135 Lad Yai, 094-769-1777. Open 11:30am-9pm Next time you are on a trip to Samut Songkhram, try this hidden gem. Experience a combination of poolside vibes and international bites, including American favorites like chicken and waffles and Italian staples like bacon spaghetti aglio olio.

There’s a variety of drinks, including 14-hour cold brew coffee and salted caramel lattes on top of refreshing passion fruit smoothies and strawberry and mango tea. The highlight here is their tropical in-pool floating set. Go that route if you are looking for the most exclusive dining option.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get complimentary dessert valued THB 125 when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip 15 May ’19 – 31 May ’20

New+Noted-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 20

Hiddenwoods

NEW AND NOTED

21 Asoke’s craft beer bar gets succulent rotisserie chicken

22 Classic Thai lunch gets a premium meat upgrade

23 Get lost in this idyllic Bangkok escape

Following branches in Thonglor and Silom, Jeremy Tourret’s successful roast chicken specialist Birds Rotisserie has a new outpost at Soi 23’s beer bar, Craft (16 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 095594-6675). Head here for their moist, organic three day-marinated, freerange chickens prepared in a huge spit oven (B875 whole/B475 half), paired with organic young potatoes (B150) or the smoky Angry Bird chili dip (B45). If you’re craving greens, opt for the Caesar salad (B270) with strips of succulent chicken breast, otherwise just go carbs-to-the-walls with the chicken burger—bulging and sandwiched in an oatmeal bun.

Pair with Craft’s refreshing craft beers (from B190).

From the people behind The Meatchop, Saladang Dining Hall (14, 9-10 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 095-907-9947) offers a refreshing take on traditional Thai comfort recipes in a sleek, warmly decorated setting close to leafy Lumphini Park. Stop by for a lunch of creamy sea bass hor mok pla (B150), refreshing pomelo salad (B120) and sour gaeng som (B190), or grab a seat at the bar to indulge in Thai-influenced cocktails like the punchy Mrs. Som-O (Thai chili-infused vodka, pomelo juice, lime, agave and soda, with a chili-salt rim, B260), paired with premium meaty dishes like roasted wagyu short ribs and somtum (B680).

If you’re planning a bike ride in Bangkok’s green haven of Bang krachao, then be sure to make a pitstop at Hiddenwoods (777 Moo 4, Phetchahung Rd., 090-974-8234).

Tucked down a tiny raised path shrouded in trees, this nature retreat offers a slice of air-con heaven.

Surrounded by cute wooden bridges, mini man-made waterfalls, fairy lights and a big deck overlooking the river, boost your energy levels with the Secret Mountain (B215)—nachos, mozzarella cheese, sour cream, diced tomatoes and prawns—or Alan's Pasta (B195) with shrimp eggs and prawns, or indulge in a red velvet brownie (B125) and Americano (B110).

7/19/19 7:09 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

21

Who makes the best... veggie burgers?

Gone are the days when vegetarianism meant sacrifices. Thanks to a burgeoning movement creating vegetarian versions of meatbased classics, today's non-meat eater has myriad options. Here’s where to find the best meat-free burgers in town. By BK Staff

Beef & Shake

BK Pick!

The place: A small burger joint focusing on burgers made using preservative-free natural Australian beef and Singaporean portobello mushrooms.

The burger: The giant ear of grilled Portobello is packed with flavor and hints of garlic and herbs. The bun is fluffy with generous amounts of butter.

On the menu: Portobello mushroom burger, B155.

93 Narathiwas Rd., 095-949-2646.

BTS Chong Nonsi

Broccoli Revolution

The place: One of Bangkok's most reliable vegan restaurants with a menu of meat-free Mediterranean, Western and Southeast Asian dishes.

The burger: The broccoli patty gives an earthy taste. It comes flecked with quinoa, giving the mixture a satisfying pop when bitten into.

Topped generously with guacamole and mango salsa, it unfortunately turns the patty into a soggy mess.

On the menu: Broccoli quinoa charcoal burger, B250.

899 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5001.

BTS Thong Lo

New+Noted-BK#767-26JUL2019_NEW.indd 21

Arno's Burgers

The place: The burger specializing spin-off from a French chef with a dry-aged beef business. Now with 13 branches.

The burger: A heavy slathering of vegetable stew smacked on a small grilled portobello mushroom. It tastes strangely comforting with a hint of Mexican spice. Under a different name—like veggie bread soup—we would be fine with it.

On the menu: Vegetarian, B280.

Narathiwas Soi 15, 02-087-5087.

Open daily 11am-10pm

25 Degrees

Veganerie Concept

May Veggie Home

The place: US restaurant chain 25 Degrees is a self-described “bordello meets burger bar.”

The burger: The “broccoli-onion-carrot-oatmeal-tofu” patty, undercooked and strachy, has a sticky, mushy interior despite its golden crust, with a faint aroma of curry powder. Stacked in-between thick and chewy donut-like bread, the combination looks great but ultimately doesn’t deliver.

On the menu: Veggie burger, B210.

The place: An all-vegan Sukhumvit cafe specializing in dishes that would usually contain meat.

The burger: Generously filled with stringy, shredded mushrooms in sweet, tangy barbecue sauce. This take on classic American pulled pork boasts a nice bouncy texture with chewy undertones—all overwhelmed by mayo and soggy coleslaw.

On the menu: "Pulled pork" burger at Veganerie Concept, B290.

The place: A no-frills spot for a meat-free meal that pack full flavors, but aren't necessarily healthy.

The burger: The not-at-all-mushy bean-based patty has a crispy crust, but the inside is dry.

The flavor is subtle, spiced like falafel.

On the menu: Veggie burger, B170.

G/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-267-5272

35/2 Soi Methi Niwet, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-8489. BTS Phrom Phong

8/3 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 097-247-6925.

BTS Asok

7/19/19 7:09 PM

food l fresh from japan

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

22

Shinsen Fish Market

Thonglor Nihon Ichiba

Nanayo Suisan

Thonglor Nihon Ichiba

This Ain’t Tsukiji You don’t need to travel to Tokyo to get seafood freshly plucked from Japanese water. Here’s where Bangkok sushi chefs head instead. By Suthivas Tanphaibul Shinsen Fish Market

Don Don Donki

Thonglor Nihon Ichiba

Nanayo Suisan

The place: Although the offerings are largely caught around Japan, this place actually modles itself after Taipei Fish Maket. The warehouse set-up is divided into four zones, with a special mention for the aquamarine zone, which boasts live seafood including the popular taraba king crab.

The goods: As the first live and raw fish market to arrive in the area, there is no shortage of fresh seafood imported from Japan. Standouts include wild giant, Iwagaki (rock) oyster (B750); Japanese abalone (B12,800/kg); and the house highlight, live taraba crab (B4,190/kg).

Who goes there: Locals and Japanese families Pro tip: You can also get the rest of your grocery shopping done, including takeout meals, or enjoy dining here at one of their two restaurants serving up both Japanese and international fare.

The place: No need to fly to Japan, the famous Japanese retailer has landed in Bangkok. With its Santa hat-clad giant blue penguin and the Don Don Donki theme song (Miracle Shopping) ringing in the background, fans will have no trouble recognizing this statement-making store. With an impressive range of Japanese merchandise in stock, the store stretches across two floors in a maze for shoppers.

The goods: Head to first floor to find rare seafood. Operating around-the-clock, the standouts are easily the madai (B5,000/fish), the kinmedai (B2,000/fish) and the hirame (B2,500/fish), which all include a filleting service. There’s also a great selection of takeout, such as the bluefin tuna sushi (B299), salmon sushi terimayo (B219), hon maguro sushi (B490) and more for a late night snack.

Who goes there: Everyone loves this place.

Pro tip: They are open 24/7, so you can visit the store at anytime, even when you’re drunk at 2am after a rough night at neighborhood night club, Arena 10.

107 Soi Sukhumvit 63, Thonglor Soi 10, 02-301-0950. Open Mon-Sun 24 hours. BTS Thonglor.

The place: Nestled in the center of Thonglor’s craziness, this grocery market promises fresh Japanese produce. You’ll be impressed by its likeness to a real Japanese fish market, while also offering a “you-hunt-we-cook” concept and a terrace eatery on the second floor.

The goods: There’s a mix of imported groceries from Japan organized into three main areas. You will find special Japanese crops like Okinawa spinach (B100), matsutake mushrooms (B1,800/200g) and shinano gold apple s (B180) at the fruits and vegetables section.

You can also enjoy the wagyu sirloin steak cut A5 (B590/100g) with free grilling service at butchery area. The real highlight is the fresh seafood, such as alfonsino fish (B299/100g), octopus akashi (B310/100g), red king crab (B2,800/kg). Choose your favorite sashimi like maguro chutoro and salmon (priced by weight) with a complimentary cooking service.

Who goes there: Anyone who wants a taste of fresh Japanese products, in particular, Japanese families.

Pro tip: Order fresh seafood online by Grab (groceries) or HappyFresh, if you want to avoid the traffic. You can apply for membership (B200) for promotions and discounts.

The place: The simple but popular fish market and restaurant is located in Sukhumvit Road’s friendly Japanese town. This compact store is a top pick for Bangkok’s Japanese residents shopping for fresh cooking ingredients and takeaway sushi and donburi. If you are not in a rush, dining in is available here as well.

The goods: The seafood sashimi, like akami (B320), kanpachi (B280), unagi (B320) and hotate (B280) is exceptional. For a grab-andgo meal, drop by for some tasty Japanese donburi like hon maguro akami and negitoro don (B360), unagi don (B350) or a classic sushi box set (B380) for lunch.

Who goes there: Mainly Japanese expats, foodies and office workers.

Pro tip: Get there early for a wider choice of fresh sashimi. Promotions often run on Facebook too.

163/6 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-260-6522.

Open Mon-Sun 11am-11pm. BTS Phrom Phong.

595/22 Sukhumvit Rd, 099-287-8101.

Open Mon-Thurs 1am-9pm (closed on Wednesday), Sat-Sun 10:30am-9pm.

87 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-059-2616. Open Mon-Sun 9am-6pm. BTS Thonglor.

FoodFeat-BK#766-12JUL2019_NEW.indd 22

7/19/19 4:50 PM

neighborhood | lat phrao soi 71

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2019

23

Dinner Ceremics Studio

Artisan Cafe

Cafe Reverie

Octo Beer Bottle Shop

Organic Supply

Got the Nak Nak Niwat Road and Lat Phrao Soi 71 are a hidden enclave of bars, farmers’ markets, cafes and boutiques. It’s no wonder Lat Phrao hipsters can’t stop talking up their neighborhood.

By Suthivas Tanphaibul

PAA.MAA House

Coffee & Breakfast Start your morning at Organic Supply (148 Nak Niwat Rd., 02101-6410) with their Super Berry smoothie (B140) and mushroom spinach cheese roll (B85). Coffee-lovers from across the city seek out Red Diamond Cafe (733 Pradit Manutham Rd., 065-893-6287) for its hi-tech brewing methods and house blends like Sex Bomb (B140) and Dirty Coffee (B140).

Artisan Cafe’s (33 Nak Niwat Rd., 02-102-6388) greenhouse location is just the place to step up your Instagram game with an espresso (B70) before heading to Cafe Reverie (23/1 Soi Rongrian Phet Thanom, 02-932-9388) for the French-pastries like Peter Pandan (B165) and Almond Dulce (B140). For something completely different, the ghoulish Kaethy the Witch (24 Nak niwas Soi 41, 081916-8447) serves juices in IV drips along with on-theme baked goods.

Lunch & Dinner Along Nak Niwat Road you’ll find the red door of Eat Lovers (85 Nak Niwat Rd., 099-198-9929), dedicated to Thai dishes like Phitsanulok dried spicy soup with pork ribs (B168) and Thai panang curry with pork and lychee (B168).

PAA.MAA House (89 Lat Phrao Soi 71, 098-242-4789) takes a more fusion route with dishes like stir-fried shrimp and garlic with red-hot chili dip (B189). Butcher Beef and Beer (Nak Niwat Soi 16, 098-263-7700) is where the local craft beer geeks hang, chugging on Delirium Tremens (B250) and enjoying steaks from just B600. For special occasions, The Older Chef (14, Lat Phrao 71, 094-479-5935) serves possibly Bangkok’s cheapest omakase at B1,599.

Drinks Lat Phrao has some of the funnest bars in Bangkok. Period. @24 by PJT (93/4 Nak Niwat Rd., 091-

Eat Lovers

786-5432) is a classic Thai-style hangout: live music, pool and no-nonsense brews from B90. Octo Beer Bottle Shop (Nak Niwat Soi 2, 081-234-8291) has all the top craft names on tap from Freshly Squeezed (B240) to Rogue (B275), while Krasip (737 PraditManutham Rd., 096-869-8869) has an openair terrace with live music, Stella (B220) and cocktails from B180.

Transport From MRT Lat Phrao, it’s a B30 motorcycle taxi to the top of Soi 71.

You can take the upcoming BTS Lat Phrao station (open on Aug 11).

Accommodation

Visit Have fun with friends and family at Rabbit Hole Board Game (396/7 Sukhonthasawat Soi 18/1, 085812-4399), or craft a ceramic cup at Dinner Ceramics Studio (1/285 ChokChai 4 Rd., 081-867-3130). For sport enthusiasts, 71 Badminton Court (33/43 Nak Niwat Soi 24, 02-539-6408) is a must, while Union Cycling Apparel (66 Nak Niwat Soi 16, 081-964-4404) has all the hottest bike gear. Check out Lat Phrao’s Hua Mum Market (678 Prasert-Manukitch Rd., 099492-6858) for food, clothes and so much more.

My Story Ladprao 71 (390 128 Nak Niwat Rd.) starts from B12,00014,000/month; Family House Ladprao 71 (41/26 Sukhonthasawat Rd.) offers rooms from B18,000/month. The five-floor Prime I-Zen Condo (365 Nak Niwat Rd) costs B10,000-18,000/month.

BK ASKS

What don’t people know about this neighborhood?

Neighbourhood-BK#767-26JUL2019_01.indd 23

APICHAI TRAGOOLPADETGRAI, CO-FOUNDER OF ORGANIC SUPPLY “It’s the best place for organic lovers.You can shop for so many organic groceries at Lemonfarm and Farm to You, and also do wholesome activities at the Thai City Farm (also known as Prince City Farm) community center.”

PAKAPAN SAMKSAMARN, OWNER OF OCTOBEER BOTTLE SHOP “This vibrant community sits at the main entrance to a shortcut for other areas, which has made it a new hub for hanging out.”

PAVARISA SINGTO, OWNER OF EATLOVERS “The highlight of Lat Phrao Soi 71is its large main road, which is different from others in Bangkok, thanks to the many restaurants and bars hiding down the alleys.

7/18/19 4:04 PM

P.24 SoiMilk.indd 2

7/19/19 4:52 PM