BK E-Magazine 768, Aug 9 2019

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On the Nose Bangkok’s freshest designer fragrances Bowl Game Exploring Sriyan’s all-star street food Due North Chiang Mai’s best new openings Survival Skills The group empowering sexual violence survivors

Mom's the word NO. 768 AUGUST 9, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

BEAT THE CROWDS Your ultimate “go here, not there” guide to Phuket

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Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Associate Editor Willy Thorn Digital Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

Empowering survivors of sexual violence

Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom

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Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul

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As it happened, the resort they chose has been in the news since 2012 for encroaching on land reserved for farming. One of their members, party list MP Virat Rattanaset—who is, of all things, the deputy minister for agriculture—had a great reason why. According to Virat, the MPs stayed there so they could experience firsthand the problem of encroachment.

Island time

It’s genius. Flawless. An inarguable quantum leap in logic that’s so mad it’s beautiful. So beautiful, in fact, that we suggest the PPRP take things further. Why stop at encroachment? They should set up a new task force—the Department of Operations for Uncovering Corrupt Habits through Experience. DOUCHE for short.

SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant

First up, DOUCHE could tackle the problem of all those deliciously illegal Thai homebrews coming out of Bangkok.

We recommend experiencing a full crate of Dragon Brewery’s Basement Doom IPA, maybe while at an underground Yaowarat casino, experiencing what it’s like to gamble on Mahjong while drunk and with a service revolver strapped to your belt. That’s some serious DOUCHE thinking.

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Chayanid Udomrattanasirichai, Chutima Adulchitt, Jesse Day, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Lalana Plangsombat, Naruenet Phothet, Paphawee Akkaragumtorn, Raima Chakrabarti, Sasin Imla, Suthivas Tanphaibul, Tanaporn Pongpeng, Thanicha Worapanyanan, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen

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Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon

Asia City Media Group

travel

Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net)

What's new in Chiang Mai

Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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Other top DOUCHE missions: to experience these next-level hydroponics we hear they’re growing in Nonthaburi. A friend of ours says he knows a guy whose cousin said he took one hit on that stuff and saw Field Marshal Sarit dancing on the back of a white dolphin on the Chao Phraya. That definitely requires a DOUCHE investigation.

But DOUCHE has limits. Some illegal activities that DOUCHE should never experience include what it’s like to be, say, an unlicensed worker on a Bangkok construction site, or a Rohingya on a Thai-flagged fishing trawler in the Andaman.

No no no. A better way for DOUCHE to get to grips with modern-day slavery would be to experience some of their recent catch instead, preferably salt-baked with plenty of seafood sauce and crab-fried rice. Yum. They could even combine it with a trip to Maya Bay to experience what it’s like to go snorkeling on an endangered coral reef now that all the Chinese tourists have left.

For too long, Thailand has been ruled by ignorance. Welcome, everyone, to a new DOUCHE era.

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*They failed.

neighborhood

get in the loop

Are You Experienced?

Late last month, a group of Dear Leader’s former prep school classmates sat around at a resort in Nakhon Ratchasima to figure out how they were going to get their old bunkmate through his first parliamentary grilling without looking like an ass*.

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama

ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

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Sukhumvit Soi 61

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Sriyan's street food paradise

What We’ve Learned Indie cinema House RCA is on the move After 15 years of screening arthouse flicks for Bangkokian cinephiles on the far-flung RCA party strip, House RCA has announced Aug 31 as its final day of operation, before opening a new location in late September.

House Samyan will sit on the 5th floor of Samyan Mitrtown, a new mixed-use project by Golden Land Property Development located in the old Samyan neighborhood (behind MBK).

see what’s happening

@bkmagazine

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HOT OR NOT

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

This duo is empowering sexual violence survivors through skills-training

Bad luck, taxi mafia— looks like your Grand Palace scamming days are over. The new MRT extension is now running from Wat Mangkon through to Tha Phra, with free rides available through Sep 29. Keep an eye out for the next issue of BK for a full update.

INTERVIEW

After meeting at the London School of Economics (LSE) in 2018, Bangkok native Net Supatranii, 25, and Parisian Julie SanéPezet, 25, joined forces to form ila, a network that connects sexual violence survivors with training and jobs.

Launched in London in June, the group will host its first Bangkok event on Aug 17. We met with them to find out more.

“Most trouble starts in our backyard”

What is ila?

Net: A social enterprise to empower survivors of sexual violence with skills-training in order to achieve employability and financial independence.

How did it come about?

Julie: We clicked in the first days at [LSE]. Before we knew it, we were working together.

How does ila work?

Net: It connects survivors, corporations, and young, socially-conscious individuals. For survivors, ila focuses on rehabilitation, transition, mental health and personal development, work placement and professional training.

Julie: It’s a space where survivors can safely raise their voices and share their experiences.

We believe connecting people is the best way to trigger change.

How is sexual violence in Thailand unique?

Net: The foreign perception is infamous places like Soi Cowboy. But the truth is most trouble starts right in our backyard. According to the Public Health Ministry of Thailand, 75 percent of all Thai males have visited a prostitute and 47 percent of teenagers have their first sexual encounter with a prostitute. It’s a lot easier to point fingers at foreigners, but Thai men are perpetuating this vicious cycle. And you’d be surprised to know that 91 percent of Thai women who report abuse know their perpetrators (according to the United Nations).

Something is keeping these women from leaving their boyfriends or husbands, which we believe is money.

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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CHASING PAVEMENTS We all secretly love it when our motosai driver bypasses the traffic with a quick footpath detour, but with City Hall doubling the fine from B1,000 to B2,000 this month, those days could be numbered. Now, if only they’d apply it to those orange electric scooters plaguing Thonglor and Ekkamai.

What are the changes you want to see in Thailand?

Net: Gender equality should be a normal thing, and men need to be more involved in the conversation. You just say the words “gender equality” and many men zone out.

Do you think Thai media contribute?

Net: 100 percent. In fact, the Thai Ministry of Health said 80 percent of lakorns feature rape scenes. Many lakorns on Channel 3 or 7 don’t even show kiss scenes. It’s insane. Somehow rape scenes are fine, but showing people kiss is taboo?

Do you think gender violence and inequality are caused by men?

Julie: Sexism is the root of the problem. If you believe that women are weaker, less capable and meant to be people-pleasers, what do you get? But women can also be sexist. So tackling sexism will take everybody. It’s true that most gender-based violence perpetrators are men.

But also, because of their positions of power, men can also make a tremendous difference.

How can people get involved?

Julie: On our website [www.ilageneration.com].

Net: We are hosting an event (ilaX) August 17 at Barely Human Gallery, Yaowarat. It will be the first since our London launch. The theme is “Unapologetically Me.” We’ll touch on important topics like how gender is represented in media, and how to handle sexual assault in the workplace. Chayanid Udomrattanasirichai

THAI DESSERT Forget those plans to purchase military Stykers from the US, Thailand is poised to take over the world with—wait for it—honey toast.

Bloomberg recently claimed that Thai dessert cafe After You is the world’s best performing restaurant stock, blowing China’s Haidilao (no. 2) and America’s Chipotle (no. 3) out of the water. The chain is set to open its first overseas franchise in Hong Kong later this year.

WEEKENDS AWAY Netizens are cooking up a storm over immigration’s crackdown on TM30 reporting, which requires long-term, non-Thai residents to report any overnight stay away from their primary residence to the authorities.

Best say farewell to those spontaneous weekend trips.

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

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The Smart Traveler’s Guide to Phuket

Here’s why Thailand’s old-timer should be your next island getaway. By Angela Symons

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f you think Phuket is all beer-bellied lager louts, teeming beaches and rip-off merchants, then think again. Though it’s tempting to write off Thailand’s most accessible island as a tourist trap, direct flights from as little as B800 return are not its only allure. Know where to look and you’ll find unparalleled variety ranging from local secrets to luxury extravagance.

Just be sure to hire a bike or car to get around, or all that money you saved on flights will be swallowed up by the taxi mafia. Here’s why Phuket should be your next island get away.

The local food is awesome It’s safe to say that Phuket’s food culture is among the richest of any Thai province, with influences drawn from Thailand, China and Malaysia. From the kanom jeen at 80-year-old Mae Ting Kanom Jeen (65 Satun Rd., 095-190-5049)—where a plate of fermented rice noodles with unctuous self-serve curry costs just B35—to the flaky roti (B20 for two) and massaman curry (B50) at the super low-key, 70-year-old Roti Taew Nam (150 Thalang Rd.), mornings on Phuket are made for next-level street food. For a taste of Phuket’s classic yellow noodles, Hokkien mee, check out the bric-a-brac- and family photo-filled Ko Yoon Phuket Noodle (Suriyadet Fountain Circle, 084-189-5432. B60/bowl) or the no-frills Yao Yen Ta Fo (45 Patiphat Rd., 081-535-3304)—unique here is the rich prawn head broth (B60/bowl).

You can’t go far in the Old Town without catching wind of the famous Ko Benz (intersection of Krabi Rd. and Patiphat Rd., 084-060-7799). Its khao tom haeng (dry rice soup, B50) attracts both locals and a gaggle of tourists. Be sure to end on a sweet note at the 77-year-old Keng-Tin bakery (342, 344 Phuket Rd., 076-212-185), where you’ll find shelves stacked with chewy Phuket toop-tap (peanut brittle, B35) and flaky tao sor cakes (moon cakes, B20/four pieces).

Mae Ting Kanom Jeen

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For an elevated take on local cuisine, don’t miss the Old Town’s long-running and celebrated southern cuisine specialist Raya (48/1 Dibuk Rd., 07-621-8155). Set in a century-old building adorned with ’50s tea and coffee poster girls and pictures of Thai monarchs, the restaurant serves up full-powered Phuket favorites like moo hong (braised pork belly with pepper and garlic, B250), gaeng nue poo bai cha ploo (crab meat with curry and coconut milk, B400-600) and pad sataw kapi goong (stir fried sataw with shrimp, B250-350)—despite the hefty prices, they only take cash, so be sure to visit an ATM before your meal. For somewhere more fusion-leaning, hit the creative Suay (177/99 Moo 4, Si Sunthon, 093-339-1890) for everything from foie gras miang kham (betal leaf wraps, B450) to lemongrass lamb chops with papaya salsa (B650).

Keng-Tin

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Dibuk House Torry’s Ice Cream

Cafe culture has hit hard If a day spent hopping between cute cafes and getting progressively caffeine-buzzed sounds like your idea of heaven, then schedule a trip to Old Phuket Town, where Soi Romanee, Thalang Road and Krabi Road form a burgeoning hub of cafe culture. Start at the bright blue Phuketique (2 Ranong Rd., 081-974-1559) with a traditional Thai coffee (from B30), before moving onto the hip Campus Coffee Roaster (6 Krabi Rd., 092-218-9292) with a signature Jelly Coffee (B75). Next, jump over to vintage-style The Old Phuket Coffee (72/1 Yaowarat Rd., 099-475-6846) for an iced Americano (B80) or check out the packed bookshelves at Bookhemian (61 Thalang Rd., 098090-0657) with a grilled marshmallow coffee (B95) and a plate of eggs Benedict (B120).

On Soi Romanee you can get a taste of local Thai desserts at Orta (12 Soi Romanee, 065-249-3616)—try the ket leng mango bi co moi (local ice cream with black sticky rice, coconut milk and mango, B160)—or the famous pink Torry’s Ice Cream (16 Soi Romanee, 076-510-888)—go for the O-Aew (clear jelly served with red beans and ice cream, B75). On the same street, you can watch the crowds go by with a citrus coffee (B100) at Dou Brew (15 Soi Romanee, 091-825-2435) or a nitro cold brew (B100) and avocado and poached eggs on toast (B160) at Rush Coffee (31 Soi Romanee, 065-028-4585).

Still thirsty? Head to Endless Summer‘s (175 Yaowarat Rd., 099-029-8067) gorgeous turquoise house, where you can sift through collections of bohemian European resort wear before taking a seat in the photogenic cafe with a Cafe Viennois (coffee and Chantilly cream, B120).

Campus Coffee Roaster

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For a spot of day-drinking, stop by Phuket’s pint-sized artisanal Chalong Bay Rum Distillery (14/2 Moo 2, Palai Soi 2, 093-575-1119) for a glass of mix-yourself Ti’Punch (Chalong Bay, tropical syrup and lime, B250), or learn about their sustainable production methods on a guided distillery tour (B400/ person, including a mojito cocktail). For something more hands-on, opt for the two-hour cocktail workshop, which includes the tour plus lessons on three concoctions—mojito, pina colada and “spicarina” (caipirinha with chili)—priced at B1,750/person. If you’re into dancing, stop by on Thursday evenings (7-11pm) for Latin Fire night.

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Once you’ve had your fill of local fare, head to Acqua (324/15 Prabaramee Rd., 07-661-8127), where well-heeled expats flock for Sardinian chef-owner Alessandro Frau’s eightcourse modern Italian degustation menus (B2,500/3,500) of sous vide cooked octopus salad and fried American scallops with foie gras, chili jam and truffle pumpkin sauce.

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Come golden hour, brush shoulders with Instagram influencers snapping the best sunset views on the island at Sri Panwa resort’s swanky Baba Nest (88/5 Sakdidej Rd., 076-371000). Plop onto a beanbag at the infinity pool-edged rooftop bar with a sake mojito (B480) or a Hitachino Nest Weizen beer (B220). Note that advance bookings are essential and it’ll cost you: a minimum spend of B2,000 applies to outside guests, or B1,000 for hotel guests.

The arts scene is blossoming You’d be forgiven for thinking that Phuket is lacking in modern arts and culture, but there are locals seeking to remedy that. Run by long-time residents Michaela and Martin Michalik, Project Artisan (53/17 Moo 6, Cherngtalay, 093-790-9911) is a tropical-designed, community-oriented creative hub that acts as a holiday spot for locals. After days spent lounging on the beach, photography classes and therapeutic yoga sessions make a welcome change, but that’s not all. Visit during the day for great coffee (B130 for cold brew Chiang Mai coffee), incredible vegan burgers (B285) and nutrient packed yellow-fin tuna poke bowls (B350). Check back at night when the craft beer-filled bar (from B100 for Thai draft Riceberry

by Cheers) comes into play, and local DJs (Wed and Sat) and live bands (Fri) light up the sound system. Come September, they will also have a full retail space and gallery featuring a collection of unique Thai-made art, crafts and gifts. Stay tuned to their Facebook page (bit.ly/2L18R3D) for details of markets, classes and events. If you’re staying locally (Laguna and surrounding areas), they also offer a free tuk tuk pick up service.

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Long-standing names on the island’s fine-dining scene include Phuket’s first and only Michelin-starred restaurant Pru (Trisara Resort, 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., 076-310-100).

Its six-course menu (B4,500 plus B2,500 for wine pairing) utilizes produce grown on the restaurant’s organic farm, and includes signature carrots cooked in soil topped with a cured egg yolk and black crab with Phuket coffee.

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Nightlife isn’t all about Patong Steer well clear of the sleazy happenings on Bangla Road and head instead to Phuket’s Old Town. Here, you’ll find a hub of hip bars, from the moody colonial Dibuk House (37 Dibuk Rd., 082-733-0442) for awesome cocktails like A Fearless Boy (butter-washed rum, roasted coconut water, dark cacao liquor, vanilla syrup, lime and smoked whisky, B320) to Zimplex (156/48 Phang Nga Rd.) for pricey but oh-soInstagrammable lava lamp-like neon shots (B380 for the Enigma, a heady mix of 60-percent ABV absinthe, gin, vodka, cream liqueur, “lab liquors” and syrup). Drop by Club No 43 (43 Yaowarat Rd., 081-476-7440) for more cocktails with flair, like the 43 Old Town (B320) which mixes vodka infused with tom yam ingredients (ginger, galangal, kaffir lime, lemongrass, chili), fresh mango and passion fruit juice in a tin pot. Nearby, Rockin’ Angels (55 Yaowarat Rd., 089-654-9654) offers a taste of Nashville-esque music culture, with live blues and soul nightly.

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Fine dining to rival Bangkok Ideal for special occasions, The Nai Harn hotel’s fine-dining charcoal-grill, Prime (23/3 Moo 1, Vises Rd., 076-380-200), serves up infallibly juicy dry-aged wagyu flank steaks (B1,700), Angus fillet tartare (B700) with smoked olive oil, porcini powder, truffle and tangy Parmesan crackling, and fresh gilt-head sea bream (B1,650) with rich Jerusalem artichoke and salty samphire on its al fresco, beachside perch. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from the James Suckling-curated list.

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To explore the Old Town’s colorful collection of street art by some of Thailand’s biggest names, take a stroll down from Romanee Road, where you’ll find Rakkit Kuanhavej’s colorful, geometric bird design—a tribute to traditional Phuket Hokkien-style sweets—and part of Alex Face’s series of Phuket-referencing works. On Phang Nga Road, you’ll find Mue Bon’s signature chick design, while Dibuk Road is now home to 4 Studio’s striking mural of King Rama IX residing above the clouds.

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Dibuk Road

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cover | island time WHERE TO STAY PHUKET ARGUABLY HAS SOME OF THE COUNTRY’S BEST HOTELS. HERE ARE THREE PLACES TO STAY FOR EVERY BUDGET.

John Gray’s Sea Canoe

Xinlor House - From B1,500 Located in the heart of the historic Old Town, the chic Xinlor House takes over an unassuming townhouse with four exclusive guestrooms and two suites, each with a fresh white and blue color scheme. The Superior Room starts at B1,500, while the Deluxe Room at B2,000 comes with its own balcony—ideal for observing the surrounding Indo-Chinese architecture and local goings on. For a special occasion, the suites come with either a hot tub (B3,000) or balcony (B2,650). The communal areas are an Insta-worthy combination of whitewashed brick walls, framed old photographs and vibrant green potted plants.

78 Dibuk Rd., 064-551-5456

Windmill Viewpoint

pockets of natural beauty are still all aroud Yes, other islands may win when it comes to untouched bays and deserted beaches, but Phuket is not without its charms. To really experience the beauty of the island’s surrounds, book onto the Phang Nga Bay “Hong by Starlight” tour run by the long-standing John Gray’s Sea Canoe (076-254505. www.johngray-seacanoe.com). At B3,950/person, it’s on par with other local operators but a pretty big hike on the B2,000 canoeing tours you’ll find in rival destinations like Koh Samui. So, why pay it? Run by the legendary Californian canoer, John Gray—whose achievements include creating and hosting an Emmy Award-winning canoeing documentary, Moloka’i’s Forgotten Frontier (1985), before he found himself stranded on Phuket in 1990—the eight-hour tour includes a professional, personal Thai guide who’ll expertly paddle you through tidal sea caves into lagoons surrounded by limestone karsts. Come sunset, enjoy dinner on the boat before taking a magical journey into a cave filled with glimmering bioluminescent plankton—truly a dream-like experience.

At 10m, Bang Pae Waterfall (Pa Klok, Thalang District, entrance B200) is no Niagara Falls but it makes for a beautiful escape into nature. From the carpark, the walk up only takes 10 minutes, but wear sturdy shoes as the ground can be wet and uneven. While you’re in the area, be sure to fit in some moo hong (Phuket pork belly stew, B180), spicy mangosteen salad (B190) and Thai craft beer (from B165) at the local indoor-outdoor restaurant, Piang Prai (101/18 Pak Khlok Rd., 085-832-7439).

Phuket’s many viewpoints tend to resemble a zoo at feeding time as the sun sets—nowhere more so than the famous southern tip at Phromthep Cape, where literal busloads of tourists are decanted every evening. For almost identical views and far tamer crowds, check out the unofficial neighboring Windmill Viewpoint (located at Promthep Alternative Energy Station, Rawai)—a few people are in on the secret but it’s nothing compared to the Phromthep Cape droves and there’s a grassy bank with plenty of space to kick back. Plus, if you’re lucky, you might spot paragliders gracefully soaring down to Ya Nui Beach as the sky turns pink. For more uninterrupted views, this time over Phuket Town, book an outdoor seat at Tunk Ka Cafe (Rang Hill, Khosimbi Rd., 076-211-500)—order the plamuek tod kratiam prik thai (garlic-fried squid, B80/100g), gai hor baitoey (deep-fried chicken cooked in pandan leaves, B140) and a cold Phuket Beer (B100).

Escape crowded Patong, Kata and Karon beaches with a trip to the island’s lesser frequented sands, such as Kata Noi—located just five minutes’ drive from its bigger sister, its secluded location amid rocky promontories and lush greenery makes it far more tranquil; note that swimming is only possible outside of monsoon season. Tucked away from the main road to the north of the island, Nai Yang is one of Phuket’s most peaceful beaches, with local restaurants dotting the shore. Head north up the coast for what is often lauded as Phuket’s last hidden beach, the hard-to-reach Banana Beach. For snorkeling, head south to Ao Sane and Ya Nui—both close to Nai Harn Beach—whose small clusters of rocks to either side attract fish and other marine life. The tropical cove-like Laem Singh was closed to the public in 2017 after the land was bought by Mandarin Oriental, however savvy locals have found a work around—grab a boat for B100/person from Surin Beach and you can still enjoy the paradisiacal hideaway. Surin Beach itself is not the crowded party hub it once was; since the army demolished all its bars and restaurants back in 2016, it has become far more peaceful, if not very well cared for.

The Nai Harn - From B4,000 Occupying a hill overlooking Nai Harn Beach, all but eight of The Nai Harn’s 130 stunning whitewashed rooms and suites come with azure ocean views. Fun and fresh, the hotel comes complete with luxuries you never knew you needed—think yoga and mini golf equipment in your wardrobe, and a beach butler (who’ll bring you everything from umbrellas to picnics). Occupy your time with daily complimentary fitness classes on the beach, make use of the complimentary paddle boards, snorkeling equipment and bicycles, or gorge on everything from delicious Thai fare at Cosmo to charcoal-grilled steaks at Prime. If you’re on a budget, opt for the Mountain View Room (B4,000), though it’s well worth splashing out B6,100 for an Ocean View Suite so that you can utilize the “press for Champagne” button on the terrace’s daybed. Be sure to make it down in time for breakfast—with fresh-baked breads and pastries, house-smoked cheeses and meats and cold brew coffee, it’s quite possibly the best on the island.

23/3 Moo 1, Vises Rd., Rawai, 076-380-200

Shopping unlike any other island You might not associate an island getaway with shopping sprees, but Phuket can offer the best of both worlds. Mall junkies can get their fix at Central Festival (74, 75 Vichitsongkram Rd., 076-291-111), home to stores like Zara, H&M and Lacoste, while market fiends should skip tourist-trap Chillva Market and check out the original Naka Weekend Market (7 Tin Rd. Open Sat-Sun, 4-11pm) for bargain clothing, tasty street food and cheap souvenirs.

Sri Panwa - From B10,400 With its 82 stunning tropical-contemporary style pool villas, penthouses and suites perched on a hillside on Phuket’s Panwa Cape, there’s no overstating the luxury of staying at the five-star Sri Panwa. Golf carts are on hand to ferry you around the vast, hilly property, from Cool Spa with its six waterfall treatment rooms, to the nine on-site dining facilities, including the iconic Baba Nest sunset bar, the private beach and the three gorgeous communal pools. A 70-sq-meter one-bedroom suite can be had for B10,400, with an infinity plunge pool overlooking the ocean, while larger groups can opt for the luxury 300-sq-meter twobedroom villa with a 12-meter infinity pool for B25,000.

88 Sakdidej Rd., 076-371-000

TRAVELING WITH FRIENDS? Airbnb’s new Airbnb Luxe platform rounds up some of the most glamorous villas on the island.

Turn to page 15 to read more about it.

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food & drink

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ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Getaway Goals

Phuket’s best scenic restaurants overlooking the Andaman Sea Black Ginger

How: An all-black wooden house accessed only by raft—it’s a truly romantic concept, and perfect for a holiday with loved ones.

The Slate Hotel Phuket, 076-327-006.

Open daily 6-11pm

Get 10% discount on a la carte menu 01 Feb ’19 - 31 Jan ’20

Ta Khai

How: Ta Khai has a nostalgic am bience, thanks to a pavilion carved from beautifully-weathered repurposed wood, set on a lotus pond. The menu is based on the local fishermen’s daily catch.

Rosewood Hotel Phuket, 076-356-888.

Open daily 6-10pm

Get 10% discount on food and nonalcoholic beverages 01 Feb ’19 - 31 Dec ’19

Seafood at Trisara

How: Inspired by timeless Thai family heirloom recipes, SEAFOOD serves authentic southern Thai dishes in a relaxed oceanfront setting.

Trisara Hotel, 076-310-100.

Open daily 6-10:30pm

Ruen Thai

How: Enjoy authentic Thai dishes in a traditional teak house set in a beautiful garden by the water. The dining view overlooks the Andaman sea and scenic hillsides—making Ruen Thai perfect for a romantic night out.

Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket, 076-362999. Open daily 6-11pm

Get 20% discount on a la carte menu only when spending THB 2,000 or more /sales slip 15 Feb ’19 - 31 Jan ’20

La Sala

How: House specialties include international classics and Thai delicacies at this beachfront hotel. Start your day with an international breakfast buffet with live cooking stations, enjoy street food platters to share for lunch, and finally delve into a world of Indian spices and Thai dishes for dinner.

CITI Feast-Of-Deal-BK#768.indd 9

Ruen Thai

Anantara Mai Khao Phuket villas, 076336-100. Open daily 7-11am and noon10:30pm

Get 10% discount

01 Mar ’19 - 31 Jan ’20

Get a complimentary signature Nam Prik Long Rau valued THB 450 when ordering Mama’s recipe set menu (limit 1 dish / card /table /sales slip) 01 Jan ’19 - 31 Jan ’20

Black Ginger

Ta Khai

Seafood at Trisara

La Sala

Brought to you by Citi

8/5/19 3:29 PM

hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

10

01

Big Bad Wolf returns with millions of English titles BOOK SALE

Bookworms assemble, because the Big Bad Wolf Sale is back in full swing for its fourth year, bringing to Bangkok three million English-language titles and an expanded selection of Thai publications at heavily discounted prices. The event promises both familiar titles and new releases, fiction and non-fiction at whopping discounts of 50-90-percent; all sold round the clock, at Impact Muang Thong Thani convention center Aug 9-19.

With many kids nowadays glued to their tablets, this year’s book fair also offers something new and exciting. Surachet Worawongwasu—director of the fair’s organizing company, Ready2Read—will introduce a selection of Augmented Reality (AR) books. These interactive adventures move through four children’s fables, including Little Red Riding Hood, and are available at the wallet-friendly price of B180. The self-described “Biggest Book Sale in the World” originated in Malaysia before moving on to Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines and Taiwan. Hall 9 (Impact Forum), Impact Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd. www.fb.com/bbwbooksthailand

NUMEROLOGY

Check out Thailand’s hottest new EVs for 2019 Mine Mobility SPA1 B1.2 million

FASHION

DECOR

WATCH

02 Work out in Thai

03 Greyhound Cafe dishes

04 Omega’s Apollo 11

MG ZS EV B1.5 million

activewear made from recycled bottles

Nissan Leaf B1.9 million

Bangkok-based Flexi Lexi Fitness—known for its bright colors and quirky designs—has a new collection to boost your eco-cred without sacrificing performance or style. Inspired by carefree, summer holiday vibes, the yoga and activewear brand created the “Under the Sea” collection entirely from recycled plastic bottles. Included are super-soft and stretchy polyester crop tops (B2,275) and leggings (B3,325) packaged in a customized canvas zipper bag. The collection is available at www.flexilexi-fitness.com

on Marimekko fashion

tributes have landed

To celebrate the 10th anniversary of Marimekko’s Oiva tableware collection, the Finnish design label will take over a section of Greyhound Cafe, at Groove CentralWorld from now-Sep 15. As Marimekko decorates tables with its signature accessories and colorful eye-catching prints, the cafe will dish out 11 popular dishes on the bold and distinctively patterned tableware— calamari fritti, on black and white “Kivet” plates, alongside young coconut crepe cake on playful “Eläköön elämä” crockery.

Reserve your seats at Greyhound Cafe, 2/F, Groove @ CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-613-1263

What: Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Edition Price: B335,000 Why? The Speedmaster made history on Jun 21, 1969 when Buzz Aldrin wore it on the moon. This iconic tribute boasts a stainless steel case and 18K Moonshine gold—a patent-pending alloy paler than traditional gold. It’s also adorned with a radiant tachymeter scale and laser-engraved images of Aldrin and his footprint. Limited to 6,969 pieces.

G/F, Omega Boutique, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5959. Open daily 10am-8pm

Kia Soul EV B2.3 million

Shop Talk Jaguar I-Pace B5.5 million-B7 million

ShoppingNews-BK#768-9AUG2019_NEW.indd 10

How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT PANPURI REVIVE OMEGA-9 REPAIR HAIR SERUM This nourishing hair serum (B1,250) could be the answer to your quest for gorgeous, luscious locks. Available now at all Panpuri stores.

BIN IT SIDE SLIT BELL BOTTOMS A confusedlooking garment that doesn’t do you any favors.

BARGAIN FRED PERRY END-OFSEASON SALE Get up to 50 percent off on sneakers, caps, polo shirts and other select items (through Aug 28 at Siam Discovery).

8/2/19 6:01 PM

hit list | calendar

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

11

NIGHTLIFE

05

Oxford indie act Foals hits Lat Phrao

THIS IS JAMAICA ‘86 A flashback retro party; taking you back to the slice of the ‘80s when reggae morphed into dancehall.

Aug 10, 8pm. De Commune, 1/F Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-4197380. Free.

MACHINE GUN KELLY The American rapper played Harlem’s Apollo Theater at the age of 19. He will be in Bangkok as part of his Hotel Diablo World Tour. Aug 13, 8:30pm. 5/F Central Plaza Chaengwattana, Chaeng Wattana-Parkkred Soi 19. B2,000 -3,000 at Thaiticketmajor.

BOMBER SELECTA Dance all night to everything from hip-hop and R&B, to soul and funk. Aug 15, 10pm.

Sugar Club, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 061-391-3111. B200-300 includes one drink.

CONCERT

British rock band Foals is set to make its long-awaited Bangkok debut. The Oxford band is led by iconic frontman Yannis Philippakis, and the group’s latest album Everything Not Saved Will Be Lost - Part 1 came out last year—with part two set to drop come fall. Notable songs by the band include “My Number” from the album Holy Fire (2013) and Total Life Forever (2010) from the album of the same name. Aug 14, 7pm. Moonstar Studio, Lat Phrao Soi 80, 02-539-3881. B2,200 at Ticketmelon.com.

TROPICAL DISCOTHEQUE British-French DJ Hugo Mendez spins warm tropical jams, with support from Bangkok favorites Maft Sai and Dangbut Banget. Aug 16, 9pm.

Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B300.

WESTIN POOL PARTY Hit the pool, then the club at Levels. Aug 17, 1-9pm. The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-207-8000.

B400 includes free-flow from 1-2pm.

SE SO NEON The South Korean indie rock band shares the stage with Bangkok’s fluffypak and Evil Dude. Aug 25, 6pm. Glowfish, 2/F Sathorn Thani 2 Building, N Sathorn Rd., 02-109-9600.

B1,000 via Ticketmelon or B1,200 at the door.

ART

BRYCE WATANASOPONWONG This Thai-Aussie photographer captures Asian street scenes in sharply-colored art prints. Through Sep 30, 3pm.

Eat Me Restaurant and Art Gallery, 16 Convent Rd., 0878235010. Free.

ITALIAN RENAISSANCE MASTERS Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Botticelli come alive alongside the Chao Phraya River. Through Oct 31, 10am. River City Bangkok, 3 Charoenkrung Soi 24. B350 via Zipevent.

SALE & FAIR

EXPLORERS FAIR Embrace your inner adventurer at this National Geographicorganized lifestyle fair. Aug 7-11, 9:30am. BITEC, 4343 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-726-1999.

Free.

LIVE MUSIC

06 Big Bad Wolf blows into town

07 Grammy-winner Flume’s first live

with three million books

set in Asia

The 24-hour book sale is returning to Bangkok once again, this time with more than three million English-language books at heavily discounted prices. Big Bad Wolf Book Sale runs 11 days, round-the-clock, giving book lovers a chance to pore over fiction and non-fiction covering cooking, sports, children’s stories, graphic novels and much more, all at 60-80-percent discounts. Aug 9-19. Hall 9, Impact Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd. Free.

Renowned DJ/producer Flume will perform his first live set in Asia in here Bangkok. Flume’s second studio album, Skin (2016) gained international recognition and won Best Dance/Electronic Album at the 2017 Grammy Awards. Expect to hear his latest mixtape Hi This is Flume. Aug 21. Centerpoint Studio LaSalle, 9/11 Lasalle Rd., 02-361-9229. From B1,800 at The Concert App.

CIRCA WAVES This is the Bangkok debut for the Liverpool indie stars of hits like “Wake Up” and “Time Won’t Change.”

Aug 13, 8pm. Live Arena, 94, 23/92-94 RCA Rd., 098-974-6974. B1,200 at Ticketmelon or B1,500 at the door.

JULIE BYRNE The acclaimed folk singer has two studio albums out, and once worked as a seasonal ranger at New York’s Central Park. Aug 16, 8:30pm. Lido Connect, Rama 1 Rd. B1,3001,500 via Ticketmelon.

SHAMROCKING

IRISH INDIE ROCK BAND TWO DOOR CINEMA CLUB RETURNS

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Alex Trimble, Sam Halliday and Kevin Baird last visited Bangkok in 2016. The Northern Irish trio returns this month with popular singles like “Something Good Can Work,” “Undercover Martyn,” and “What You Know,” plus their fourth album, False Alarm. Aug 13. Thunder Dome, Muangthong Thani. From B1,500 at Ticketmelon.

ALPHA WOLF Australian metalcore hits RCA with five Bangkok metal bands —Annalynn, Hopeless, No Penquin in Alaska, Carry On and Terasa. Aug 24, 6pm. Live Arena, 94, 23/92-94 RCA Rd., 098-974-6974. B600-1,000 at Ticketme.

REUSE IS GOOD(S) Go minimalist. Declutter and make money at a local resale market. Aug 24-29, 11am.

Dadfa, Lasalle Soi 33, 096885-8303. Free.

WORKSHOPS

CRAFT RESIN ART Pick up a new hobby and learn to create small gifts using real flowers. Aug 10, 2pm. Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC), 2/F, The Grand Postal Building, 1160 Charoenkrung Rd., 02105-7400 ext. 213. B1,000.

LILY FESTIVAL Celebrate motherhood and learn about wellness and sustainability. Aug 11, 8am. Siri House, No.14/2 Soi Somkid, 094-868-2639. Free.

8/1/19 2:59 PM

P.12-13 CitiBank.indd 2

8/1/19 8:51 PM

travel | go north

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

New in Chiang Mai

14

Simple Pleasures Cafe

This season’s best new restaurants, bars, cafes and hotels in Chiang Mai.

By Kankanok Wichiantanon Little Shelter

Croissant Chiang Mai

Simple Pleasures Cafe

Croissant Chiang Mai

This cafe in Doi Saket includes a lush plot of land, a backyard full of fresh, organic produce, an open outdoor kitchen, and pavilion seating near a rustic canal. The small wooden house is pure Lanna, and home to an Australian/Dutch couple who make everything from scratch; from bread and muesli, to yogurt, chili jams and curry stocks. The cafe’s signature is Moroccan shakshuka (Middle Eastern style poached eggs in spiced tomato sauce, served with homemade bread, B170). Fresh tomatoes and leafy greens and vegetables from the garden also appear on the table, wrapped in savory crepes with pesto (B140) and turned into beetroot dip with veggies (B90). Desserts include simple treats like apple crumble (B90), lemon cheesecake (B90) and fudge brownies (B70). 176 Moo 7, Choeng Doi, Doi Saket, 093-6727252. Open Fri-Mon 5am-1pm. bit.ly/2unnQeB

Next time you’re in the Lanna capital, head to this bakery, where hand-rolling and imported Normandy butter combine for light and super airy croissants. It’s not all plain (B85) and pain au chocolat (B130), either. You’ll find jazzy flavors like rose (B130), chocolate hojicha (Japanese green tea, B130) Nutella and banana (B130) and even charcoal (B85). The bakery also offers ultra-thin, supremely-crisp vanilla croissant chips (B100 for 40g).

With only a small bench out front, this is a grab-and-go kind of place, though they offer free delivery throughout the city. 20/8 Montfort Villa 12, Aom Mueng Rd., 095-686-9525. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.fb.com/croissantchiangmai

Yesterday Cafe Nimman Road’s stylish retro cafe-slash-craft beer bar blends industrial-loft stylings with rustic, vintage elements—antique cameras, torn book pages pinned to raw concrete walls and soft brown leather banquettes—for a warm yet masculine feel.

During the day, work your way through their 20 varieties of coffee beans, sourced from up the road in Chiang Rai, all the way to distant Honduras. We recommend the drip coffee (B150), or signature roasted coconut and coffee shake (B120), paired with inventive all-day breakfast bites like spicy German sausage stuffed croissants with Sriracha mayo (B220) and homemade rosemary toast with beetroot salmon (B240). Come evening (5pm-midnight), turn your attention to their 12 taps of craft beer (from B120). 24/12 Nimmanahaeminda Rd., 095-686-9478. Open daily 2am-7pm. bit.ly/2LDBipi

324 House Bar Cafe Lush greenery envelops this charming cafe-slash-bar, located just 15 minutes’ drive from Chiang Mai. The menu includes khao pad nam prik kapi (shrimp paste fried rice with mackerel, B125), khanom jeen nam ngiaw (rice noodles with spicy Northern soup, B95) and succulent barbecue ribs (B240), as well as a huge selection of cocktails, craft beer and wines. Open from 8am all the way through to midnight, 324 also makes an ideal spot for lunch; with indoor seating, cool AC, red brick walls, polished cement floors, Edison bulbs and wooden furniture. Come sunset, live music is occasionally offered on the fairy-lit lawn. 70 Ratchapruek Soi 2 Moo 7, Nong Kwai, Hang Dong, 091-632-9656. Open Thu-Tues 9am-11pm. www.fb.com/324housebarcafecnx

Where Will You Travel Next?

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Baan Pie Charin Cafe and Bistro A traditional Thai-Lanna home close to the hilltop temple Wat Phra That Doi Kham is the unlikely setting for an American pie specialist. The interior comes in an equally incongruous rustic-industrial style, with polished concrete floors, red brick walls and shiny leather sofas. Gawp at the scrumptious display of pies, with names to make your mouth water—Coconut Custard (B75), Lemon Supreme, Boston Cream, Strawberry Cheese (all B85)—before heading out to the front porch to enjoy your slice. Baan Pie Charin also offers a range of Thai and Western hot dishes and baked goods. 204/8 Hmu 3 Soi Kam Mauk Hluang 099-381-4449. Open daily 8am-6pm. www.fb.com/baanpiecharincafeandbistro

Kin Lum Kin Dee For three years, this no-frills favorite impressed Chiang Mai locals with classic takes on Lanna cuisine from its home in Nimmanhaemin Soi 11. They’ve since moved to a new space—in nearby Nimmanhaemin Soi 9—which boasts a colorful, industrial style and walls covered in murals that tell the stories of the restaurant’s history. Despite the eatery’s modish vibe, the food remains authentic, with bold takes on northern cuisine: think addictive poo ong (a mash of chicken eggs and grilled rice paddy crab eggs, B65) sensational gaeng hang lay (spicy pork belly curry, B130), and a new menu specially-dedicated to seasonal ingredients. 25 Nimmanahaeminda Rd., 064-614-0817. Open daily 11am-9pm. www.fb.com/Kinlumkindee

Iames Basecamp This charming, Nepalese-themed restaurant/bar sits on the third floor of Chiang Mai’s hip indoor/outdoor mall, One Nimman. The light and airy atmosphere combines wooden furniture with earth tones, and also boasts raw concrete seating, walls and counters,

Out Sep 27, 2019 uncovers the latest resorts, restaurants, shops and attractions across Thailand.

lending the space a bohemian-meets-industrial feel. The food, surprisingly, is not Nepalese fare, but rather, authentic Thai. Try the pungent mango dip enriched with shrimp paste and served with fresh vegetables and cha-om omelet (B120), or the traditional tom yum goong with thick, aromatic broth (B180) to go with a steaming bowl of rice. Daytimes, Iames Basecamp becomes a cafe/restaurant; perfect to enjoy good coffee and tasty lunches. However, you’ll notice full booze-shelves lining the walls—those are for evenings, when the restaurant turns into a tiny night hub, with local DJs blasting house music. 3/F, One Nimman, Nimmanhaeminda Rd., 080-057-6221. Open daily 6am-6pm. www.fb.com/Iamesbasecamp

Ni-Yom Homemade With a Lanna home setting and a kitchen full of generations-old family recipes, Ni-Yom Homemade is all about nostalgia. Situated inside the small Baan Suan Residence resort, the family-run restaurant uses traditional techniques for a menu that includes kai pa lo (braised pork and egg in sweet soy soup, B120), green curry with braised beef shank (B160) and dry porridge brimming with Chinese sausage, stir-fried pork and crispy fried salted egg (B120). Inside, the light and airy space is decked out in blond wood, with walls painted ocean blue for modern flair. 25 Moo 3, San Phi Suea, 089-455-5774. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am8:30pm. www.fb.com/niyomhomemade

Little Shelter Hotel In a slim plot of land surrounded by towering trees sits Little Shelter; a small boutique hotel that feels more like an architectural artwork than an accommodation. The 890-sq-meter building is wrapped in a glittering facade, and constructed with translucent polycarbonate sheets and wood tiles cut into rectangular shapes. Its roof pays homage to classic Lanna gables.

One end is asymmetrical, formed to the shape of the treetops— while the opposite side has been carved out for a deck, featuring a sweeping view of the Ping River. The hotel has 14 rooms in four different shades: black, white, green and brick orange.

Inside, the light-filled space is as sparkling as the facade. The walls are made of square-shaped mirrors that reflect all the colors of the polished concrete floors, the minimalist furnishings and the decor. The hotel’s facilities include a cafe painted completely in dramatic white; a restaurant with a cocktail-wine bar specializing in northern-fusion cuisine; and one compact pool—all situated near the river. Rates start at B3,060 per night. 208/25, Chiang Mai-Lam Phoon Rd., 081-611-9797. www.fb.com/littleshelterhotel

Book here

Want your business to appear in Hot Spots 2019?

Call: 02-624-9696 Email: advertising@asia-city.co.th

8/2/19 6:06 PM

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

15

PHUKET

09 Hip new Chinese cafe digs in Phuket Town

08

Travel lavishly with Airbnb’s new wildly luxurious rentals

09

Hip Chinese cafes are a hot-burning trend, and Yaowarat 42 (bit.ly/2y2ØwFH) is Phuket’s newest addition. The Old Town cafe marries traditional Chinese designs with moody industrial décor—like dark polished concrete floors, brick painted white, earth tones and dangling lights. The menu boasts baked goods starring Thai staples, such as explosive coconut lava cake (B75), pandan caramel custard (B85) and caramel banana monster cake (B75).

The drink list includes classic coffees, but also leans towards refreshing, fruity flavors. For example: mango sodas (B85) iced lemongrass with honey (B75), and bloody berry smoothies (B95). If you’re still hungry, a small menu is available for both lunch and dinner.

11

PHUKET

CHIANG MAI

10 Lotus stem-themed

11 An all-day-brunch spot

Tucked alongside a lotus pond in a gorgeous antique house in Thalang is Maa Doo Bua (“Come Look at the Lotus”; www.fb.com/ Maadoobua.Phuket), a new restaurant that celebrates the humble lotus stem. Forget potato French fries; here lotus stems are deepfried to golden perfection. Other signatures include lotus stems stir-fried with shrimp paste (B250) and relish made with flower stems and fresh prawns (B420). Maa Doo Bua also offers decadently sweet treats, like thick sweetened cream panna cotta with candied lotus stems (B195).

Skoop and Co (www.fb.com/skoopandcocnx) is a new all-day brunch and dessert spot dedicated to luscious scoops and hearty eats on bustling Nimman road. The brunch menu includes a range of breakfast staples, sandwiches and pastas—waffles with Canadian bacon and housemade whiskey maple syrup; a smoked turkey with brie and avocado sandwich (B280); squid pasta (B290) and pain perdu (French Toast) with salted egg yolk sauce and whipped cream (B240). The creative ice creams include strawberry mascarpone; Ispahan (rose, raspberries and lychees); and kuromitsu caramel (with Japanese ‘black honey’ syrup)—all for B85 a scoop.

cuisine at a pond-side restaurant

AIRBNB

Airbnb’s growth has blossomed far from its days as a place to make some extra change from your spare room. Meet Airbnb Luxe, a new platform catering to super rich travelers.

Alongside historic villas in Tuscany and entire islands in the Caribbean, Airbnb Luxe has included three Thailand destinations: Koh Samui, Phang-Nga and Phuket. On average, a week in an Airbnb Luxe property has an asking price of B432,740, but it can rise to up to US$1 million. Here in Thailand, we’ve found some options on the modest end of that scale, from an arty three-bedroom villa on Koh Samui (bit.ly/29M91p7i. B12,000/night) to an exquisite clifftop home for 10 pax on Phuket (bit.ly/2Y2BB30. B36,400). Check out airbnb.com/luxury.

Panacea Retrat, Koh Samui

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for luscious ice cream

8/2/19 6:07 PM

food & drink | open doors

12 Paii gives Thai seafood an upscale makeover The buzz: The wrapping has come off W Bangkok’s follow-up act to The Dining Room — the chefs’ table concept makes way for Thai seafood classics served in gut-busting portions. Fred Meyer—a restaurant veteran, notably of Namsaah Bottling Trust and Issaya Siamese Club—came on board as consultant.

The decor: This mansion was originally the personal residence of the aristocrat who gave Sathorn its name, and it’s fair to say he had lavish tastes. Look closely at the ornate plasterwork and you’ll see tusked wild boars staring back at you from beneath the new yellow paintwork—a nod, apparently, to his Chinese spirit animal—while the rest of the space is all parquet floors and wood panels. The former kitchen bar zone is gone, leaving more room for customers to sit back in plush, red leather dining chairs.

The food: Executive chef Joe Weeraket is a Bangkok native and has a long resume, which includes heading many hotel restaurant kitchens. We doubt any have given him quite so much freedom to run with uncompromisingly spicy Thai dishes large enough for sharing. The fried rice, for example, swallows 500 grams of local mud crab and will easily do for four, if not six—somewhat justifying the

New+Noted-BK#768-9AUG2019_2_NEW.indd 16

B2,200 price tag. The giant river prawns (B1,950 for two) come charcoal grilled; their heads overflowing with creamy natural fat.

Cut them with the sweet-savory heat of the accompanying choo chee curry sauce. Chef Joe imports flambeed razor clams from France (B520), dousing them in a fiery XO sauce, concentrated in-house from a kilo of dried shrimp and a kilo of scallops. Set menus from B2,200 per person are available; scaled to share, a la Nahm.

The drinks: Take your pick from the adjoining bar’s formidable list of classics, or go with one of the house’s specials, like Nak— Mekhong rum, yuzu citrus juice, strawberry tea syrup and Thai basil (B380). Wines by the glass start at B340. We’d point you in the direction of the Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling, Washington USA (2017).

Not just the cheapest bottle on the menu at B1,700, but also delicious.

Why we’d come back: Think of Paii like the Thai seafood equivalent of a lofty, upscale steakhouse.

Produce is king. Recipes are classic.

Tasting portions and fancy reinvention are banned. That’s a concept we can get behind. Oliver Irvine The House on Sathorn, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000. Open daily noon-midnight

8/2/19 8:18 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

17

Ivy 47

TABLE TALK

NEW AND NOTED

13 American Chinese food dreams come true on Sukhumvit Lazy Panda (245/6 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 098-279-9236) is all about the sticky, sweet goodness that is American-style Chinese food. Not to be confused with America’s cult-fave Panda Express, this similarly-named joint doles out all the classics in gigantic, all-American portions. Guilty-pleasure favorites include the crisp orange chicken (B240) and the sweet yet sizzling General Tso’s chicken (B240), which you can order with your choice of white rice, fried rice or vegetable lo mein noodles (add B30)—make it a real party with some crab rangoon (crisp fried dumplings; B65 for three pieces) or egg rolls (B80).

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14 Out with Freebird, in with soccer stars Take defunct modern bistro Freebird, put it in the hands of a pair of Bangkok United star players (Sam Nordine and Tristan Do) and you've got Phrom Phong's latest place to be seen: Ivy 47 (28 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-116-5253). Glamorous clientele, crisp white linens, button-back seating and dripping mood lighting make this place feel like money. As for the food, think Cocotte but more upscale; chef Francois Lecouvez, formerly of Alliance Française's on-site restaurant, serves up everything from a whole baby chicken (B590) to Angus beef rib eye (B1,200/250g). Vogue Lounge’s former bartender Francesco Moretti reinstates some of our favorites, like the coffee-infused Aroma Negroni (B340).

15 This cafe is minimalist Korean perfection Located close to MRT Ratchadaphisek, Woolloomooloo Cafe & Bar (145 Soi Vibhavadi Rangsit 16, Din Daeng, 095-757-4990) is a Korean-style cafe by day and wine bar come early evening (white sangria, B260).

The all-white and wood affair looks plucked from a magazine with sweet treats like the Terrine Cheese (B120), an indulgent semi-sweet concoction with a soft and sticky raw chocolate texture, and signature honey milk Earl Grey tea (B95) served in fittingly photogenic fashion. For something less sinful, try the apple cup (B180) with granola, or apricot jam and yogurt, paired with the strawberry and lime fizz (B100).

Easy Buddy 6/F Openhouse, Central Embassy, 089-455-5424.

Open Mon-Sun 10am-9:30pm. BTS Ploenchit Tucked inside Open House at Central Embassy, this restaurant serves comfort food like pad ka prao (stir fried Thai basil with meat) in creative forms. We recommend the signature Buddy’s Favourite (stir fried Thai basil with marinated beef, duck fried egg, and caramelize corn, served with sticky rice), and Healthy By Any Chance?—a healthier option featuring stir fried quinoa with grilled salmon and onsen egg. You can also customize your own ka prao from various toppings such as A4 Wagyu, beef tongue, and pork crackling chilli paste.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get complimentary Black Truffle Chinese Sausage Wonton valued THB 160 when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip) 01 Aug ’19 – 31 Jan ’20

8/2/19 8:18 PM

Krua Banleng 33

TABLE TALK

NEW AND NOTED

Mensho Tokyo

16 Old family recipes and a musical legacy in Phrom Phong

G/F, RSU Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 31, Open Tue-Sun 11am-3pm, 5-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong This Tokyo-to-San Francisco ramen chain elevates the humble soul food beyond the Tonkotsu and Shio standards by offering a next-level chicken-based broth furnished with seasonal, local ingredients. Special mention goes to the thick noodles, house-made using premium domestic wheat harvested in Thailand, which add spring to every bite. Fans of Tonkotsu are well advised to order the Tori Paitan whose 100-percent chicken broth boasts all the flavor of its porky equivalent but less guilt-factor. The Gyokai Shoyu Tsukemen is also a must.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 5% discount on food only 01 Aug ’19 – 31 Jan ’20

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Filled with retro green leather seating, old clocks, framed records and black and white photos of King Rama IX, Krua Banleng 33’s new digs on Sukhumvit Soi 31 (AVORA31 Residence, 28 Soi Sukhumvit 31, 098-881-6362) are reminiscent of Phuket mainstay One Chun. Formerly located in Sathorn, this restaurant belongs to the family of music legend Luang Pradit Phairoh. Now it serves classic Thai comfort food, from beef green curry (B175) and grilled pork neck (B120) to moo palo (stewed pork and eggs with Chinese five spice, B120).

Shari Shari

17 Charoenkrung gets a photogenic Japanese dessert cake cafe Charoenkrung is a magnet for cute cafes; the latest to join the fold is Homu (32 Charoenkrung Soi 44, 089-792-6496), where traditional Japanese wahashi (confections) are served up in a brick shop-house fronted by bright blue shutter doors.

Rope, rattan, leafy plants and distressed paintwork complete the rustic look. Try the strawberry dai fuku (B95) stuffed with red bean paste or the buranan (B95)—a tofu cream pudding with Hokkaido milk—before moving on to a range of delicious matcha dumplings (B120) and beautiful clear mochi (B150), best-paired with signature floral tea (B130).

18 Asian burritos roll into Glowfish Sathorn After moving from CentralWorld to Silom Complex, Bangkok’s sushi burrito and poke bowl pioneer Shari Shari (191 Silom Soi 2/1) now has a new home at Sathorn’s Glowfish.

Here coworkers can fuel up on a host of healthy lunches inspired by food trends from America’s west coast, all served from a clean and simple blond-wood counter. Try unique Asian-inspired burritos like the Sashimi Salmon BLT (B240), the Bulgogi Buddy (B200) with grilled beef rib-eye and kimchi or the Backyard BBQ (B160) with Cantonese barbecue pork. Or fill up on poke bowls (from B220) filled with salmon sashimi, tuna zucchini and edamame—add eggplant fries and iced green tea for an additional B70.

8/2/19 8:18 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

19

Who makes the best... supermarket orange juice?

Orange juice—sweet, delicious and full of vitamin C—is there a better way to start the day? Well, sometimes, yes. It’s time to weed out those synthetic tasting, sweetener-packed varieties. We’ve ranked seven popular supermarket offerings from best to worst. By BK Staff

1. Chabaa

(100% Valencia) The brand: You may recognize this OJ from early morning flights on Thai Airways, but Chabaa (established in 2000) is also a supermarket standard. The International Taste & Quality Institute (iTQi), recognized it with an award for “superior taste” in 2017.

The taste: And rightly so. This tops all the contenders on this list with its perfect balance of sweet-yetsour natural juice and pulp.

The price: B62 (1ltr) www.chabaabangkok.com

2. Tipco

(100% Sai Nam Phueng with Pulp) The brand: With 40 years of experience in 40 countries, Tipco is one of the world’s top juice makers, and probably the most recognizable Thai brand on this list.

The taste: With its sweet taste, inviting aroma and natural flavor, this could make us rethink waking up to coffee in the morning. If it had more pulp, it might have been no.1.

The price: B69 (1ltr) www.tipco.net

New+Noted-BK#768-9AUG2019_2_NEW.indd 19

3. Harvey Fresh

(99% Orange Juice Concentrate) The brand: This Australian company is best known for milk, but it actually started off selling fresh-squeezed premium orange juice.

The taste: A rollercoaster journey, from sour to refreshingly sweet, with a nice orangey smell.

The price: B93 (1ltr) www.harveyfresh.com.au

4. SunFresh (44% Orange Juice Concentrate) The brand: This Singapore-based juice specialist has expanded its influence throughout the Asia Pacific region since its inception in 1982.

The taste: First off, this juice looks and smells bland. Any sweetness is overshadowed by an overwhelming sourness, and its texture is more rough than smooth.

The price: B89 (1ltr) www.sunfresh.com.sg

5. MinuteMaid

(20% Orange Juice Concentrate with Pulp) The brand: Bought by the Coca-Cola Company in 1960, this fruit juice brand is backed by a steady stream of ads and pizzazz.

The taste: Despite the natural pulp, this unnaturally orange sugar bomb tastes like it’s pumped full of sweeteners—addictive sure, but onedimensional and lacking tang.

The price: B16 (335ml) bit.ly/335KHM3

6. UFC

7. Malee

(100% Sai Nam Phueng with Pulp) The brand: Produced with sustainable practices using northern Thai fruit, this 40-year-old brand is a winner on paper.

The taste: Unfortunately, it was a unanimous “yuck.” It claims to be 100-percent juice, but it feels heavily watered down; yet the flavor is still strong, in all the wrong ways—like overripe oranges and fermented liqueur.

The price: B69 (1ltr) www.malee.co.th

(100% Orange Juice Concentrate with Pulp) The brand: The 50-year-old Universal Food Public Company is one of Thailand’s largest produce companies, offering a wide range of Thaigrown fruits and vegetables to the world market.

The taste: Watery, sour and unsatisfying, this harsh juice almost tastes like cold medicine. The artificial color alone is unappetizing.

The price: B62 (1ltr) www.ufc.co.th

8/2/19 8:18 PM

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

20

HOT OF THE PASS

19

Mahanakhon now serves dinner with a 100-mile view

HIGH SOCIETY

After unveiling the highest observation deck in Bangkok last November, King Power Mahanakhon—currently the tallest building in the country—has now opened Thailand’s highest restaurant, Mahanakhon Bangkok SkyBar, located on the 76th and 77th floors. But the venue’s height is not the only factor pulling in big crowds. Sprawled out over two levels and an outdoor terrace, the restaurant comes with elegant French-Thai interiors by French architect Tristan Auer (Wilson Associates), and features leather booths, mahogany and warm brick in orange and gold—all framed through floor-toceiling-windows. Executive chef Joshua Cameron boasts experience at Eleven Madison Park (no.

1 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017) and presides over dishes like the inventive Hokkaido uni panna cotta with ikura and yuzu ponzu (B900), 48-hour Australian short ribs with couscous, grapes and eggplant (B1,200) and kaffir lime cheesecake (B450), accompanied by a wine list of over 100 bottles (from B450/glass for the 2016 Russian Jack NZ Sauvignon Blanc to B57,400 for a bottle of 2009 French Chateau Angelus Bordeaux). There’s also an extensive list of classic cocktails (B450), all served from a dashing white marble bar. For reservations, contact mahanakhonskybar@kingpower.com.

King Power Mahanakhon, 114 Narathiwas Rd., 02-677-8722. Open daily 5pm-1am

STOMACH LINING

SOUTHERN COMFORT

20 Mikkeller brings a taste of Copenhagen to Siam

21 This restaurant is elevating 22 Thonglor’s “secret” bar kanom jeen to new heights celebrates second birthday

Since opening in Siam Discovery’s hip multi-label streetwear store Cazh in April, Mikkeller Discovery has been bringing shoppers respite in the form of international craft brews (from B160/glass for Mikkeller draught lime and ginger). Now, a new menu of Asian-tinged Danish snacks is offerered to accompany the drinks, from Boller (B90)—Thai spiced meatballs with curry sauce—to hot dogs like the classic Danish Dog (B150) and spicy Thai Dog (B180), topped with minced meat, pickles, lime leaves and chili, and served with a side of supremely flavorful fermented potato fries. 1/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm

Jim Thompson’s leafy, tucked-away fine-dining venture in Phloen Chit, Spirit Jim Thompson, has rolled out a new menu dedicated to kanom jeen. Served in five-course sets (B950), the menu features four different renditions of the classic southern fermented noodle and curry dish: sao nam (coconut milk sauce); nam prik mung bean sauce with battered and deep-fried morning glory; kung sod (fresh prawn sauce) served with fish cakes; and nam ya pu pak tai (crab in southern curry sauce). Available through Sep 30. 16 Soi Som Khit, 02-017-7268. Open daily noon–3pm; 6-11pm

TROUBLE ON 11 Despite much promise, it seems all is not well at Sukhumvit Soi 11’s new Eleven complex.

Within just six months of opening, Fowlmouth has already shut down, while word has it that Sara’s vegetarian restaurant pulled out of their planned opening last minute. Stay tuned for updates.

FUNKY TOWN Bunker’s former chef Arnie Marcella is revamping the F&B scene at Thonglor’s trendy 72 Courtyard, starting with the homey Italian restaurant, Carbar, where he’s added dishes like woodfired prawns with garlic and chili (B380) and pappardelle ragu with braised duck (B380). Marcella’s sommelier expertise also means more funky natural wines for the complex.

LOCK IN

After two years, we’ve all figured out where Find The Locker Room is, but it’s still fun to taunt guests with the seemingly impenetrable locker entranceway.

Now, they’re celebrating their anniversary with a whacky new menu. Their past-present-future format sees classics remixed three-ways, and the Margherita or Margarita (B420) really caught our attention thanks to a fun pizza-inspired twist of parmesan and tomato. Meanwhile, the classic Million Dollar Cocktail (B390) takes a futuristic turn in Pine-Apple-Pine (B420), featuring Filliers pine gin and “pine doubleapple shrub.” 406 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-524-2689. Open daily 7pm-2am

COCKTAILS INCOMING An extravagant new Art Deco cocktail den is set to touch down on Langsuan Road. From the minds behind mainstays like Rabbit Hole and Black Cabin, Crimson is slated to open in October this year. Watch this space!

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

F&BNews-BK#768-9AUG2019_2_NEW.indd 16

“They should have reviewed the Beyond Burger and Barefood.

They are by far the best.”

- FB USER JOE BMAN ON BK’S MEAT-FREE BURGER TASTE TEST.

“There is nothing special about Taiwanese hot pots.” - FB USER WILANEE TEERASONGKRAN ON THE OPENING OF HANJI.

“‘But isn’t the best street food in the basement of Central Embassy anyway?’ #bougiemoment” - FB USER CHARLIE WITHYACHAMNARNKUL ON THE RISING PRICE OF BANGKOK’S STREET FOOD.

8/2/19 6:09 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

21

Bella Napoli

Bella Napoli HHH 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-259-0405. BBB

In a side pocket of Sukhumvit 31—a hip neighborhood filled with bakeries and international restaurants—lies this small pizzeria, camouflaged by a shabby exterior and practically hidden from passersby. But Bella Napoli quickly opens into something else entirely. A big crowd swells through the restaurant’s two dining halls, and the interior stretches far to the back. The atmosphere is of a cozy and no-frills Italian trattoria; heavy oak, low ceilings and tawdry red brick walls, with rustic decor and red floral tablecloths. Here, guests clamor for the liveliest spot in the house—the tables in front of the wood-fired oven that’s been spilling thin, crisp Neapolitan-style pizza since 2002. The menu is made up of Italian staples; nothing particularly innovative, save perhaps the Venice pizza (B420) with centerpiece thin parma ham slices dangling off an arched bread stick—to mimic a bridge. It’s quite a dramatic look, for a pizza and the sauce is great. The gorgonzola with apple and mozzarella (B240), too, is excellent; with bits of funky blue cheese and a hint of sweetness from the baked fruit. All the pastas come in clay pots, which are sealed with flatbread and baked in the oven right Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000

before serving. When you fork through the baked dough, a harmonious scent of garlic, fresh herbs and cheese fills your nose. Don’t pass up the bolognese (B210) and tenderloin ragu (B250)—both present simplicity with well-rounded flavors. For a meatier dish, the Cotoletta Milanese (B430), a breaded beef cutlet, is crisp and delightful with meat pounded incredibly thin and an even coat of fine breadcrumbs. To complete the meal, the restaurant’s signature tiramisu (B130) is beyond comforting, with layers of luscious smooth mascarpone cream, and coffee soaked ladyfingers.

The drinks list is relatively short, but very affordable. A glass of house red or white can be had from B140. Other spirits and aperitivi run about the same. Beers start at only B90 for a small bottle. In sum: dining here feels exclusive, yet comfortable and warm thanks to the intimate space and classic Italian food. And despite its easy-going atmosphere, it comes with a white tablecloth-service and waitresses dressed neatly in black. It’s a great hangout spot, either for catching up with friends, or enjoying a traditional trattoria-style meal.

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Symbols

Reservations recommended

Parking

Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume.

Specify which department you are applying for.

Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.

Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

DiningReview-BK#768-9AUG2019-3_NEW.indd 19

8/2/19 6:14 PM

food l street food

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

22

Northern Exposure Tucked north of Rattanakosin, Sriyan is one of Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods, and strolling around its sois will lead you to a host of new and classic Thai tastes. By Suthivas Tanphaibul

R

uam Chit Road is the backbone of Sriyan, one of Bangkok’s oldest and most vibrant communities.

The neighborhood’s many sois are often lined on both sides with classic street food and shop-house restaurants, making it one of the city’s most lively food destinations. To get there, take the BTS to Saphan Taksin station and hop on the orange-flag boat (B15) along the Chao Phraya River. From Payap Pier, it’s just a seven-minute walk (east) to the heart of the neighborhood.

Yentafo Hong Tae For over 50 years, this shop has served up classic yentafo. It’s a meal fit for a hong tae (emperor); an enormous bowl of yentafo (B40) full of fish balls, fried taro, tofu, crispy squid and, the highlight, homemade sausage stuffed with egg—a unique deviation from all other recipes.

Dining tip: Dip the crispy fish-skins in yentafo soup for even more flavor.

439 Ruam Chit Rd., 02-669-0110.

Open Tue-Sun 8am-3pm

Guayjab lhung-Wang At “just” 20 years and counting, this Old Town restaurant is a relative newcomer to Sriyan. It has become the talk of the town since though, with its signature Chinese boiled pasta square soup (B60) flavored with palo broth and crispy pork belly.

Dining tip: Also get the dry rice noodle rolls (B60); a perfect mix of mushroom sauce and mellow Chinese marinated pork.

Lookchin Sriyan

660/4 Nakhon Ratchasima Rd., 094323-4555. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

Khanom Baa Bin Maprao Namhom

Kai Kaew Guaytiew Ped

Follow the sweet and rich scents floating through Sriyan and they will likely lead you to a line of people gathering around this stall. The coconut macarons (B25/ box), aka khanom babin, are sticky inside and crunchy on the outside with a mellow flavor. They are baked fresh every day, and among the most sought-after Thai desserts in the neighborhood.

Dining tip: Reservations are required for high-end khanom.

812/8 Nakhon Chaisi Rd., 065-7242365. Open Tue, Thu, Sat-Sun 6am-6pm

Lookchin Sriyan This is the 50th anniversary of Sriyan the one and only look chin nam-sai (meatballs in clear broth). The restaurant originally opened in 1969, and as the name suggests their “meatballs with broth” beef noodles (B53) are a classic. Locals know it as the only true place to get guaytiew look chin.

The meatballs here are tender and chewy, mixed with very little flour, and blend perfectly with the well-seasoned broth.

Dining tip: Order two bowls.

151/1 Nakhon Chaisi Rd., 02-243-3537.

Open daily 7am-4pm

Moo Satay Nai-Ar Now open for more than 50 years, this food stall is helmed by third-generation owners—who guarantee its traditional tastes. The pork satay (B60) is tender and juicy with a light charcoal flavor and curry-spice notes. Dipping it in the homemade peanut sauce and arjard (cucumber, shallot and chili peppers in vinegar) gives it more volume.

Dining tip: Order some toast and make a satay sandwich.

778 Samsen Rd., 081-490-0609. Open Mon-Sun 7am-2pm

Kai Kaew Guaytiew Ped This classic restaurant has experimented with its duck noodle recipe for almost 30 years. After much trial and error, they developed their signature dish: duck stewed for three months, with palo spices and herbs, on top of noodles imported from Chantaburi (B60).

Dining tip: Don’t forget to order duck entrails (from B50) and pork dumplings (B50) as side dishes.

91 Ruam Chit Rd., 081-913-4173. Open Mon-Sun 7:30am-4pm

Kaeng Pa Sriyan This Sriyan neighborhood landmark has specialized in curry for almost 40 years.

The most intense curry here is the daring signature kaeng pa neua sup (spicy minced beef curry, B120), which includes spices and herbs such as finger root and kaffir lime leaves, and plentiful vegetables, like bamboo shoots, cowpeas and eggplant.

Dining tip: Spicing here is ferocious so don’t forget extra rice.

2 Nakhon Chaisi Rd., 02-241-4216.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm

Guayjab lhung-Wang

FoodFeat-BK#768-9AUG2019-2.indd 22

Yentafo Hong Tae

8/1/19 3:08 PM

neighborhood | sukhumvit soi 61

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

Quaint

23

Union Space

Tor Um Tum

Fill in the Blank

Middle Ground Between the glitzy clubs of Thonglor and the bustling nightlife of Ekkamai lies Sukhumvit Soi 61—a street that quietly embraces the best of both worlds. Both vibrant and serene, this soi is packed with charming cafes, laid back eateries and trendy hangouts.

By Amanda Nathan

The Address

Coffee & Breakfast Wake up with a nitro cold brew (B150) at Bangkok’s oh-so-trendy coffee specialist, Casa Lapin (Major Ekamai 1221/39 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 064-586-6033), or seek out some of the city’s best single-origin blends (flat white, B100) at tucked-away Phil Coffee Company (21 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 097-125-4204). Counting Sheep Corner (26/1 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-4477) will take you all the way from your 9am caffeine fix (from B75) to evening beers (Brewdog, B240-300) in its shabby-vintage space—line your stomach with the robust Counting Sheep Big Breakfast (B240) of bacon, baby spinach and sausage.

Get some home inspiration as you munch on a lemon tart (B159) at cute lifestyle shop and cafe Fill in the Blank (28/10 Sukhumvit 61 Alley, 02-390-1087). For more sugary treats, drop by the pastel-tinged Shugaa (The Residence

Teppen

at 61, 27 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02381-5940) for green tea cake filled with chestnut cream (B255).

Lunch & Dinner Brush shoulders with Japanese salarymen at lively izakaya Teppen (14 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02714-1412), where ice-cold Asahi (B160) is paired with Kyoto-style kushiage skewers (try the aspara buta—bacon-wrapped asparagus, B130). For something more local, opt for traditional northeastern som tam (B40) and laab ped (spicy minced duck salad, B90), at Tor Um Tum (1221/24 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-714-3798). Head to the retro-style Quaint (23 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1998) for everything from quesadillas (B260-320) to spaghetti tom yam (B280), or hit up Barefood Bangkok (26 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 098-924-6995) for locally-grown raw produce and plant-based treats like the cashew cheese burger (B320).

Drinks Groove to live contemporary jazz with an Italian Menabrea beer (B220) at Dali-inspired bar and restaurant, The Melting Clock (8/1 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-0463798), or kick back at Counting Sheep Corner (see ‘Coffee & Breakfast’). The 61 (4/1 Sukhumvit Rd.; behind Major Cineplex) offers a pool table and great drinking snacks like grilled pork neck (B120) to go with a cold Chang beer (B160).

Transport BTS Ekkamai is five minutes’ walk away.

Accommodation Greenery Place (19/1 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-0444) boasts lush gardens, with a ticket price of B77,000/month for a twobedroom 120-sq-meter apartment. The Address’s (22 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-726 - 9659)

swanky accommodations run from B110,000/month. Regent on the Park 2 (43 Sukhumvit Soi 61) offers spacious rooms with a view for 12.89 million sale price, while Avenue 61 (27 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-391-7840) boasts prices between B9.5-17.8 million.

Visit Major Cineplex Sukhumvit (1221, 39 Sukhumvit Rd., 02381-4855) offers entertainment, including a cinema, bowling alley and ice rink. Head to UnionSpace (30 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 062-0155533) for co-working in a fresh creative environment—cat-lovers should visit on Sundays when rescue shelter PAWs transforms the facility’s cafe into their Adoptable Cat Cafe (11am-5pm).

BK ASKS

What’s special about Sukhumvit Soi 61?

Neighbourhood-BK#768-9AUG2019-3_NEW.indd 23

FIORENTINO CONTE, OWNER OF THE MELTING CLOCK “The local people are a restaurant owner’s dream— discrete and low profile, but also cultured.The soi is also full of hidden gem restaurants, offering a classy alternative to the many inflated and crowded areas of Bangkok.”

KIRSTY SMITH, ORGANIZER OF PAWS ADOPTABLE CAT CAFE “Barefood Bangkok make the best plant-based burgers. There’s also the coziest coffee place, Phil Coffee Company, where I love to curl up on a comfy chair with a flat white.”

TAKSINA NUANGSRI, OWNER OF BAREFOOD BANGKOK “People here are connected and get along with each other very well, in spite of having different races and backgrounds.You can also find all the types of food here, from cafes to casual restaurants. It makes you feel at home.”

8/2/19 6:15 PM

Jua

Scarlett Wine Bar and Restaurant

Cantina

Pre-booking for Citi credit card members opens August 6 Public booking opens August 13

Rang Mahal

#BKRW2019 #bkrestaurantweek bkrestaurantweek.com/bkrw

Indus

3-Course Dinners at Bangkok’s Top Restaurants

For Only B1,000* or B750*

Get a Complimentary Dish When Booking via Citi Credit Cards

100 MAHASETH = 25 Degrees Bangkok = 3SAN = The 51 Tasty Moments = Above Eleven = Aesop’s Bangkok = Akira Back = Alexander’s German Eatery Ash Kickers Briskets & Bourbon = Babble & Rum = Billy’s Smokehouse = Blue Parrot = La Bottega Di Luca = The Brasserie = Brasserie 9 Broken Eggs = Bunker = Cagette Canteen & Deli = Cantina Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen = Cantina Wine Bar & Italian Kitchen = Carbar = La Casa Nostra Char Bangkok = Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology = Da Vinci = Eats Payao Home - Bar & Kitchen = Embassy Room = Enoteca Bangkok = Gianni Ristorante Haoma = Happy Endings Eats & Bar = Hishou - Japanese Restaurant = The House of Smooth Curry = Indus = iO Italian Osteria = Jamie’s Italian Jua = Karmakamet Diner = Kisso Japanese Restaurant = The Kitchen Table = KOI Restaurant = Lelawadee Restaurant & Rainforest Rooftop Bar The Local by Oam Thong Thai Cuisine = Ma-Ke` Inu = The Meatchop Butcher & Spirits = Medici Kitchen & Bar = Mexicano = The Missing Burro Penthouse Bar + Grill = Peppina = Pizza Massilia (Ruam Rudee) = Pizza Massilia (Sukhumvit) = Punjab Grill = R-HAAN = Rang Mahal Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant = Seen Restaurant & Bar = Sensi Restaurant = Shirokane TORI -TAMA Bangkok = Siam Soul Cafe = Siam Tea Room Soba Factory = Somtam & Chardonnay = Sul = Taan = Urban Tadka Indian Restaurant

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