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Key Players Bangkok’s best live music bars Peak Time Mountain climbing in Vietnam’s Sapa Chain Reaction Meet the Bangkokian making bling for A$AP Sad Salad Putting brand-name salad creams to the test
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What will Bangkok’s transport map look like in 2020? WANG BURAPHA
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Where to find BK Magazine ARI Ari Hills Baby Bar Bangkok Caffe Undici Casa Lapin x Ari Porcupine Café Starbucks La Villa Phaholyothin ASOKE Chocolaterie Chu Home Work Kuppa Restaurant Kuppadeli Asoke Monstar lab Thailand Pan's all day eatery Peppina Simple Natural Kitchen Starbucks at Jasmine City Starbucks CTI tower Starbucks Exchange Tower Starbucks GMM Grammy Bldg. Starbucks Srinakrinwirot Prasanmit Starbucks Terminal 21 The Coffee Club Citadines hotel WWA Portal BANGKAPI Bar Italia Crystal Park Coffee Today Co., Ltd. Starbucks at CDC Starbucks Fortune tower Starbucks M Theatre Starbucks Show DC Starbucks Suanplern Market - DT & Reserve Store The Coffee Club SINGHA COMPLEX Wine I love you too BANGNA Starbucks Central Bangna Starbucks Little Walk Bangna Starbucks Mega Bangna Starbucks Paradise Park BANGSUE/SAMSEN Starbucks SCG Head Office 3 Starbucks Supreme Samsen CHAROENKRUNG CHAROENNAKHON 80/20 Eighty Twenty ALIVE CAFÉ X THE The Coffee Club
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EKAMAI/ONNUT Casa Lapin x Major Ekamai Hubba Co.,Ltd Ink and Lion Cafe
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Machine Age Workshop One Ounce For Onion Ramada Encore Bangkok Roast Rocky Rooster Cafe SCG Experience Starbucks Bangkok Mediplex Starbucks Big C Ekamai The Coffee Club (Thailand) Limited. Major Ekkamai The Coffee Club Avani Sukhumvit WWA Cafe x Chooseless
LADPRAO Behind Bar Central Ladprao (FL.1) Central Ladprao (FL.4) Dean & Deluca THE CRYSTAL Espresso Gallery Starbucks at The Scene Town in Town Starbucks Central East Ville - Fashion Zone Starbucks Central Ladprao Starbucks Crystal Park Center Starbucks SCG Experience Starbucks The JAS Wanghin Starbucks The Mall Bangkapi
Oskar Bistro Paris Mikki Nana Quince Eatery & Bar Segafredo Sukhumvit 41 Starbucks 49 Terrace Starbucks Citi Resort Starbucks Emporium Shopping Mall F.4 Starbucks Emporium Tower F.1 Starbucks Emquartier Starbucks Grand President Starbucks Na Na Sq. Starbucks Quartier Cineart Starbucks Samitivej Hospital Starbucks UBC II Storyline The Coffee Club HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS SUKHUMVIT SOI 11 The Coffee Club The Hive True Coffee The Emporio Place Sukhumvit 24
Colgate-Palmolive (Thailand)Ltd. Starbucks Bell Park Rama 3 Starbucks Int Rama 3 RAMA 9 Anotai Restaurant House Theater Library Café Potpuree Restaurant Starbucks Bangkok Hospital Starbucks Central Rama 9 Starbucks G tower Starbucks Praram 9 Hospital Starbucks RCA Starbucks The Ninth Towers Starbucks U-Place Tria Integrative Wellness Wash's happen Flowerpot Cafe Starbucks A-Link
PAKKRET/RANGSIT
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Starbucks Future Park Rangsit Starbucks Nichada Thani Bldg. Starbucks Sport City Starbucks The Crystal PTT Chaiyapruek
Porjai Home Cafe Starbucks CW Tower Starbucks Esplanade Starbucks Mung Thai Phatra Complex True Coffee Muangthai Pattara Building True Coffee True Tower True Shop CP Tower 2
PHRA NAKHON/ MAHANAK Dialogue Café Favour Cafe - Thamaharaj Starbucks at SoHO Starbucks Baan Chart Starbucks Tha Maharaj Starbucks Yod Piman River Walk PHRAKANONG Index Creative Village Kanom Sukhumvit 49 Spaces - Summer Hill Starbucks Century Sukhumvit The Coffee Club SUMMER HILL
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Ampersand Boutique Another Story - Emquartier Casa Lapin x26 Cocotte Farm Roast & Winery Dean & Deluca EMQUARTIER Hyatt Place Bangkok Sukhuvmit 20 Jones The Grocer at Emquartier Library Café Sukhumvit
Plantation Cafe Starbucks East Park Starbucks Fashion Island Starbucks The JAS Starbucks The Promenade Town Tree RAMA 3/LAT KRABANG All Six to twelve x Enroute
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Café neighbour Chu Chocolate Bar And Café Dean & Deluca SATHORN SQUARE Glowfish Sathorn Goethe Institut II fumo Initiative Media (Agency) JustCo BKK L'Oreal Thailand Le Cafes des Stagiaires Luka Moto Not just another cup Rocket Café Starbucks Vanilla moon Starbucks Bangkok City Tower Starbucks Empire tower Starbucks Sathorn city tower Starbucks Sathorn square Starbucks The Nine The Coffee Club CHATRIUM SATHON The Coffee Club MODE SATHORN Think Tank Wawee De For Rest at Yen Arkat SIAM ART CAFÉ by Brown Sugar Chula Book store Doi Tung at Chamchuri sq. Gallery Drip Coffee Isetan Jones The Grocer at Central World Kaizen Coffee Kinokuniya Isetan Paris Mikki Central World 1st floor SIAM SQUARE ONE FLAGSHIP STORE Siam@Siam Design Hotel Spaces - The Chamchuri Square Starbucks At Siam Paragon FL.1 Starbucks Central world Plaza 3/F Starbucks Charmchuri Sq. Starbucks Ideo Q Chula-Samyan Starbucks Im Park Sam Yan Starbucks Major Siam Paragon 5/F Starbucks MBK 7/F Starbucks Paragon G/F Starbucks Siam Center Starbucks Siam Discovery Starbucks Siam Square 1 Starbucks Siamkit Bldg., Starbucks The Offices at Central World Bldg. The Ninth Cafe' Paragorn
True Coffee Chula Hopital True Coffee Urban Park Paragon Wicked Snow YELO House SILOM Anan coffee Baan Silom Bitter Man Restaurant Brother 's Bar N'Restaurant Dean & Deluca SILOM SOI 1 Flair The Espresso Bar Invisible coffee room Luka, Casa Pagoda Marriott Surawongse McCafe' At standard chartered Building Media Palette (Thailand) Never Say Cutz Head Office Shake Corner Café Starbucks Abdulrahim Place Starbucks Baan Silom Starbucks Sathorn Thani Starbucks Silom Complex Starbucks U Chu Liang Bldg. Starbucks United center The Coffee Club Convent Rd. The Coffee Club Holiday Inn Express Sathorn The Coffee Club MONTIEN MALL The Coffee Club Silom True Coffee U Chu Liang Bldg. THONBURI Little Hideout Starbucks Siriraj Hospital Starbucks The Circle Ratchapruk Starbucks The Crystal Ratchapreuk Starbucks The Walk Ratchapruek THONGLOR Broccoli Revolution Face Bar Fill In The Blank Greyhound Café Co.,Ltd HOBS La Dotta Pasta Bar & Store Starbucks Thonglor House Starbucks Thonglor Market Place The Coffee Club The Maze Toby's True Coffee the eight Thonglor
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Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon
Wanted Citizen
upfront
Associate Editor Willy Thorn Digital Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writer Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Kankanok Wichiantanon, Suthivas Tanphaibul
Making bling for Pharrell and the A$AP crew
Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara
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Track Changes
SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Jesse Day, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen, Jarupa Kiattipong, Puwanart Laddawan Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon
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BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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From: US President Donald Trump To: Ms. Yingluck Shinawatra Dear Ying. Or can I call you Luck. I think we are on a first-name basis, right? People say I am anti-immigration but that is Fake News. I’m not against immigration at all. It’s just that most of the immigrants we get here are Poor and Dirty with very Bad Teeth. Sad! And people wonder why I want to keep them out. You, on the other hand, are a Solid 10! Plus you wouldn’t be tunneling your way into the US, you can land your Private Plane, just like me! We would love to have you in America. You can cross my Borders any time! From: Boris Johnson, No. 10 To: HRH Yingluck Shinawatra Heard you are considering Serbia but those silly buggers are trying to get into the EU. We definitely want OUT!! What would you rather be part of... the world's largest trading bloc or the home of mushy peas? I thought so. Really chuffed at the way you just dismissed Parliament when the odds were stacked against you. It's on my to-do list. We should talk. Please choose UK! Can introduce you to Harry and Meghan. Best, B
From: Emmanuel Macron, President of France To: Mme Yingluck Shinawatra, in Exile Bonjour Mon Cherie! We are delighted that you are considering France for your new home! Let me say it is a superior place, with excellent food and cheese. My cabinet is enchanted with your suggestion that the yellow-vest protestors (gilets jaunes) change into much more fashionable red vests (gilets rouges). Très chic! And we are mesmerized by your observation that the French flag is really just the Thai flag turned sideways! Such bonhomie, such fraternite, we must have you mon ami!!
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This week came news that former prime minister Yingluck Shinawatra has now become a citizen of—you guessed it—Serbia! In case you are not up on your Eastern European geography, Serbia is located between Bosnia-Herzegovina and Bulgaria on the map, and between Senegal and Sierra Leone on your country drop-down list. So maybe not the swankiest neighborhood, but Serbia has its charms and surely a few things to remind Yingluck of home. Let’s see… Serbia is a land-locked country, so it wouldn’t be the white-sand beaches. But how about this: the January temperatures are 32 degrees—oh wait, that’s Fahrenheit. OK, got it: Serbia has had 10 different constitutions in its modern history... a distant second to Thailand’s 20, but, hey, it’s a start. We here at BK have uncovered a trove of leaked diplomatic cables showing that there was in fact extreme competition among world leaders to entice Yingluck into choosing their country for citizenship. Those Serbs must have been mighty convincing because Yingluck was in high demand as these messages show:
From: Kim Yong Un, Supreme Leader of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea To: Comrade Yingluck Shinawatra Dear Sir: We are very interested in your ideas on rice production.
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From: Carrie Lam, Chief Executive of Hong Kong SAR To: Yingluck Shinawatra Dear Ms. Shinawatra. We received with pleasure your application for Hong Kong citizenship. We are particularly impressed with your knowledge of riots, airport shutdowns, and out-of-control public demonstrations. Could you please write a short essay on the pluses and minuses of tanks in the street.
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
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HOT OR NOT
DROUGHT?
This year’s drought is the worst in a decade—some reservoirs have been dried to three-percent capacity. On the bright side: Wat Nong Bua Yai recently reemerged in Lopburi. The modern temple went under during dam construction some 20 years ago. Now, worhippers are flocking to pay their respects. Hopefully they’re praying for rain.
Making bling for Pharrell and the A$AP crew INTERVIEW
Bangkok jewelry designer, Chanya “O” Thongthai, is known in the fashion world for her distinctive modern designs. The 28-yearold’s work has been spotted on a myriad of big-name musicians from Lorde to A$AP Rocky. We met with O to discuss the fashion climate in Thailand and the importance of giving back.
“The most expensive piece I've made sold for nearly nine digits.”
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
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How did you get into jewelry making? When I was 15, I quit high school and met someone who ran a jewelry workshop. I then moved to London to study graphic design and I started working as an assistant for a celebrity stylist. When I returned to Thailand, I needed to find my purpose. I was familiar with jewelry and Thailand is the heart of gemstones, so I started studying gemology. My best friend asked me to make some jewelry for her clothing line and from there the collaborations started coming.
To you, who are the most notable celebrities to have worn your pieces? The latest one is Pharrell, I’m a big fan so that was really exciting. Others include Lorde, A$AP Rocky, Riri, M.I.A. and The Weeknd.
How did you find your place in Thailand’s ultra-competitive market?
Why does your jewelry stand out? I don’t really believe in mass production for jewelry. With custom pieces, it’s always something I enjoy doing because it’s something that the customer is really going to appreciate. I’m really not in it for the money.
At first, it didn’t go how I wanted because I didn’t know anything about business. I started doing mass production but I couldn’t compete with big companies. So, I got into fine jewelry; that’s where I really found my niche. What materials do you use? I normally use 14k gold but it depends on the customer. I work with everything, sterling silver and 9k to 24k gold. How much do your pieces sell for? My custom pieces start around B8,000 for sterling silver and B25,000 for 9k gold but it depends on the details. The most expensive piece I’ve made sold for nearly nine digits. How did your work catch the attention of A$AP Rocky? Just by chance. I became friends with A$AP’s best friend and stylist, Matthew Henson, and he started putting some of my pieces on Rocky. If Matthew is wearing something of mine and Rocky likes it, he’ll ask for it.
HIGH TEA Last year, the British Embassy on Wireless Road was sold to Central Group for 420 million pounds. The first great casualty: the British Ambassador’s Residence. Built in 1922, the structure was demolished earlier this month. At the end of the year, the embassy offices will be the next to go, though the statue of Queen Victoria will remain in a green space on the original site.
How are fashion and music connected? I think they just compliment each other. Music is not just sound, there’s always a visual component. If the artist is really talented, good style and social media skills are going to help them get recognition way quicker.
Tell us about your work with the children’s charity, Sati Foundation. I’ve been donating to them and hanging out with some of the kids they help for a while now. There’s like short-term happiness and long-term happiness. For me, the recognition from celebrities and people I admire is very short-term. Doing something to give back to society is so important to me because I feel like I’m lucky and someone else should be able to be given a chance in life. Everyone deserves a chance. Any words of wisdom about business? A lot of people will try to take advantage of you. I had to learn that some things are out of my control and how to let go. I’ve learned a lot from mistakes too. Sometimes you’ll feel like a failure but you haven’t really failed unless you’ve given up. Jesse Day
LOCAL TRAVEL Plenty of good news. The new tourism minister has suggested dropping ticket prices to World Heritage sites—like Sukhothai and Ayutthaya—to draw more visitors. Second, the new economic stimulus package (now on the way to the cabinet) proposes a B1,500 cash bonus to 10 million Thai adults who travel domestically. The original plan was to reward travelers who visit secondary locations (in need of a boost), but the bill has been revised to include all locations.
DRUGS Thailand has won five Olympic gold medals in weightlifting since 2004—all were won by women—and we also placed second at the world championships last November. But now—with 2019’s world championships in Pattaya, and the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo—nine Thai lifters have been suspended in a global doping crackdown. Among the nine are reigning Olympic champions Sukanya Srisurat and Sopita Tanasan.
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
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On Track
Three years ago, the BMA put out a map predicting what Bangkok’s transport network would look like in 2020. How right were they? We review all the major upcoming station openings—and the already-operating line extensions—to see how far we’ve come. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
*Here is BK Magazine’s interpretation of the plan (not exhaustive; or to scale).
The BTS Sukhumvit Green Line Since its conception in 1999, Bangkok’s BTS skytrain has operated on two lines—Sukhumvit and Silom—serving 34 stations. Just before the system’s 20th birthday in December last year, the elevated Sukhumvit Line extension from Bearing to Samut Prakan finally opened.
Central Lat Phrao
The new 13-km extension covers nine stations: Samrong, Pu Chao, Chang Erawan, Royal Thai Naval Academy, Pak Nam, Srinagarindra, Phraek Sa, Sai Luat and Kheha. That will easily get you to the picturesque Ancient City (Muang Boran), the seaside Samut Prakan City Hall and Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm. Meanwhile, on the other end of the line, Mo Chit is no longer the northern end’s terminal station (as of Aug 11). The opening of BTS Ha Yaek Lat Phrao kickstarts the roll out of a 19-kilometer northern extension that has been under construction since 2015. The extension will eventually cover 16 stations, including Ha Yaek Lat Phrao, Phahonyothin 24, Ratchayothin, Sena Nikhom, Kasetsart University, Royal Forest Department, Bang Bua, 11th Infantry Regiment, Wat Phra Sri Mahathat, Phahonyothin 59, Sai Yut, Saphan Mai, Bhumibol Adulyadej Hospital, Royal Thai Air Force Museum, Yaek Kor Por Aor and Khu Khot. According to Surapong Laoha-Unya, chief operating officer of Bangkok Mass Transit System Plc (BTSC), four more stations—Phahonyothin 24, Ratchayothin, Sena Nikhom and Kasetsart University—will open in December this year, while the rest of the extension will not open until Dec 2020.
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
MOVING OUT The MRT Purple Line
Sanam Chai
The MRT Blue Line The Blue Line has been in operation since 2004, with the original line covering 18 stations. Construction to expand it began mid-2011, with a 27-km extension originally scheduled for completion in 2016. Free test rides through five new stations from Hua Lamphong to Bang Khae were finally launched in Jul 2019; running daily from Wat Mangkon, Sam Yot, Sanam Chai and Itsaraphap to Tha Phra station for two months (until Sep 28). The 14-km extension will eventually cover 11 stations, including four underground—Wat Mangkon, Sam Yot, Sanam Chai and Itsaraphap—before surfacing at Tha Phra and running overground west to Bang Phai, Bang Wa, Phet Kasem 48, Phasi Charoen, Bang Khae and Lak Song in Phutthamonthon Sai 4. Meanwhile, the MRT Blue Line’s second extension, which heads north towards Bang Sue, will not open until Mar 2020. The 13-km elevated line will cover eight stations—mostly on the Thonburi side of the river— looping with the existing line at Tha Phra. The Tha Phra station will also connect to the Tao Poon-bound elevated Purple Line, while the western extension from Tha Phra will also connect to the BTS Dark Green Silom Line at MRT Bang Wa. The new Blue Line stations will include Charan Sanit Wong 13, Yaek Fai Chai, Bang Khun Non, Bang Yi Khan, Sirindhorn, Bang Phlat, Bang Or and Bang Po.
Opened in Aug 2006, the first leg of the MRT purple line runs from Khlong Bang Phai to Tao Poon; making it the first MRT extension to reach another province, and the system’s first overground line. It is a muchwelcomed development for residents of Nonthaburi —it travels right through the heart of the province and will even have a stop at Nonthaburi Civic Center. The 23-km line covers 16 stations including Talad Bang Yai, which connects to the massive Central Westgate and Ikea. Eventually it will run from Tao Pun to Rat Burana. The other side of the MRT purple line Tao Poon-Ratburana Phase two of the MRT purple line is intended to serve the southern part of the city. The 23.6-km extension will include 17 stations—10 underground, and seven elevated. The underground train will cover areas in the Phra Nakhon and Dusit district—that means Samsen Road, the Thai parliament, the National Library, Thewet Market, Banglamphu (one of the world’s fastest growing Airbnb areas) and the Golden Mount—before crossing the river to Thonburi through Wongwian Yai. It will then continue south to Chom Thong, Dao Khanong, Bang Pakok, Pracha Uthit and finally terminate at Rat Burana; just a short distance from Phra Pradaeng (home to cycling destination Bang Kachao) in Samutprakarn Province. The southern extension will connect with the MRT Blue Line at Tao Poon and Wang Burapa stations; with the Orange Line at Democracy Monument station on Ratchadamnoen Avenue; and the BTS Green Sukhumvit Line at Wongwian Yai station. The cabinet approved the B101-billion southern extension in Jul 2017, however, the tender was delayed until 2018. As reported by the Bangkok Post, there was a further delay—as the terms of reference (TOR) for the now public-private partnership (PPP) resulted in a new tender, planned for early 2019. If the tender is on time and construction commences in the second half of 2019, the extension will open in 2024.
Highlights The Mass Rapid Transportation Authority (MRTA) claims that the four underground stations between Hua Lamphong and Bang Khae—Wat Mangkon, Sam Yot, Sanam Chai and Itsaraphap—will have the most beautiful designs in the country, and pay homage to Thailand’s rich tradition and the area’s Chinese heritage.
The station at Samyod, meanwhile, was inspired by the historical neighborhood of Wang Burapha and the former colonial government buildings on Charoenkrung Road. Itsaraphap is said to be subtly hidden in an old-style building, and it will be the first MRT station on the Thonburi side of Bangkok. It puts particular artistic emphasis on the swan or hong—the symbol of nearby Wat Hong Rattanaram Ratchaworawiharn.
APTHAI BTS Ha Yaek Lat Phrao (BTS Sukhumvit Line, northern extension) Life Ladprao Valley. Starts from B5.5 million. Phaholyothin Rd. Call center 1623. www.apthai.com
Sansiri MRT Bang Khun Non (MRT Blue Line’s second extension) D Condo Tann Charan Sanit Wong. Starts B1.89 million.
Pruksa Ikea
Kamphaeng Phet 6 Soi 5. Call center 1739. www.pruksa.com
The MRT Orange Line After much rerouting due to resident protests, the Thai cabinet finally approved construction of the Orange Line in Dec 2015. Phase one will run east from downtown towards Minburi, with construction divided into four contracts—a 6.3-km leg with four underground stations (Thailand Cultural Center interchange, MRTA, Pradit Manutham and Ram Khamhaeng 12); a 3.4-km leg that includes four underground stations (Ram Khamhaeng 12, Ram Khamhaeng, Rajamangala and Hua Mak); a 4-km leg with three underground stations (Lam Sali, Sri Burapha and Khlong Ban Ma); and an 8.8-km leg with seven elevated stations (Sammakon, Nom Klao, Rat Phatthana, Min Phatthana, Keha Ramkhamhaeng, Min Buri and Suwinthawong). The eastern section of the MRT Orange Line is scheduled to open in early 2023, with construction progress at 32 percent as of Mar 2019.
The 17.5-km underground line will have 12 stations including Pracha Songkhro, Din Daeng, Rang Nam, Ratchaprarop, Pratunam (Platinum Shopping Mall), Ratchathewi, Yommarat, Lan Luang (Seven Spoons and Talad Nang Loeng), Democracy Monument and Sanam Luang (Grand Palace and Tha Maharaj), after which it will dip under the Chao Phraya River for Siriraj and Bang Khun Non. The Orange Line will also connect to multiple other lines, including the Airport Rail Link (at Rachaprarop); the BTS Green Sukhumvit Line at Ratchathewi station; the SRT Dark Red Line at Yommarat station; the MRT Purple Line’s southern extension at Democracy Monument station; and the MRT Blue Line’s second extension at Bang Khun Non.
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Phaholyothin Soi 34. 02-316-2222. www.ananda.co.th
SRT Don Mueang (SRT Dark Red Line) Plum Condo Don Muang Airport. Starts B1.55 million.
Meanwhile, the western section will head to Thonburi. It’s scheduled for completion in 2026 according to Phakhaphong Sirikantharamat, governor of the Mass Rapid Transit Authority of Thailand (MRTA).
Sanam Luang
Ananda Development BTS Sena Nikhom (BTS Sukhumvit Line, northern extension) Elio Del Moss Phaholyothin 34. Starts from B1.59 million.
Liab Thang Rot Fai Taling Chan Rd. Call center 1685. www.sansiri.com
Wat Mangkon, for example, takes its name from Wat Mangkon Kamalawat—the “Dragon Lotus Temple”—the largest Chinese Buddhist temple in Bangkok. It will feature a staircase to the underground that resembles a dragon’s underbelly, and walls decorated with traditional Chinese patterns and tiled dragons. Columns painted in deep red, and ceiling dragon motifs in shimmering gold will also distinguish MRT Wat Mangkon from the countless drab underground stations around the world. Sanam Chai is also a destination in itself. Situated right in front of Museum Siam—and near other famous attractions like the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Pakklong Talad flower market—the station features a hallway designed by National Artist Dr. Pinyo Suwankiri (an expert in visual art and architecture) which resembles a Rattanakosin-era state room decorated with Thai art.
Here are the top residences being built along the new lines (by developer).
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MRT Bang Phlat (MRT Blue Line’s second extension) The Tree Charan Sanit Wong-Bang Phlat. Starts B1.89 million. Charan Sanit Wong Rd. Call center 1739. www.pruksa.com
Noble MRTA Si Rat (MRTA Pink Line) Nue Noble Chaengwattana. Starts B1.65 million. Chaengwattana Rd., 02-251-9955. www.noblehome.com
MRT Thailand Cultural Center (MRT Blue Line and MRT Orange Line) Noble Revolve Ratchada. Starts B3.6 million. Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-251-9955. www.noblehome.com
8/16/19 7:44 PM
The SRT Dark Red Line The first (northern) section of the SRT Red Line suburban railway system will run straight north from Bang Sue to Rangsit. It is slated for an Oct 2020 opening; after facing repeated delays in the bidding process. As reported by the Bangkok Post, construction of the 10-station, 26.3km route is expected to be completed by Jun 2020, and once construction is complete, test runs will take another three months. These 10 stations include Bang Sue, Chatuchak, Wat Samian Nari, Bang Khen, Thung Song Hong, Lak Si, Kan Kheha, Don Mueang (no more missing flights due to ungodly traffic!), Lak Hok (Rangsit University) and Rangsit.
cr. NC-MyLifeArm
MOCA
The cabinet has also green-lighted two railway extensions of the SRT Red Line—a 10-km route from Rangsit to Thammasat University, and an 11-km route, which runs south from Bang Sue. Its first stop will be Pradiphat— one of the main roads connected to Saphan Kwai junction, one of Bangkok’s up-and-coming neighborhoods (home to Dumbo and Cat on the Roof rooftop bars, as well as Baby Bar—the new number one in the ‘hood for cocktails). It will then run through Sam Sen, Ratchawithi, Yommarat, Yot Se and Hua Lamphong. A further extension is planned for the city’s southeast corner. So when completed, the line will run north-south through Bangkok and four adjoining provinces—from Thammasat University’s Rangsit campus in Pathum Thani, all the way to Maha Chai in Samut Sakhon. The line will be nearly 85-km long.
FURTHER DOWN THE LINE Don Mueang Airport
A brief summary of transport coverage you can expect in the future, according to the 20-year (2010-2029) Mass Rapid Transit Master Plan for Bangkok Metropolitan (M-MAP).
The MRTA Pink Line The 34.5-km elevated MRTA Pink Line is currently under construction, but will eventually be the major east-west line for northern Bangkok; running from Minburi in the northeast along Ram Inthra Road to Chaeng Watthana and Pak Kret, before terminating at Nonthaburi Civic Center. The most exciting part is that the line will pass through Muang Thong Thani. A short spur line to Impact Muang Thong Thani from Si Rat station has been proposed by the MRTA. But with or without the spur, there will be less traffic and fewer nightmare experiences booking taxis after concerts. The proposal is awaiting approval from the cabinet.
SRT Light Red Line — Bang Sue-Taling Chan (2020)
Airport Rail Link Extension — Bang Sue-Don Mueang (2022)
MRTA Yellow Line — Lat Phrao-Samrong (2022) Impact Muang Thong Thani
cr. Trisorn Triboon
The MRTA Yellow Line
Suan Luang Rama 9
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The 30.4-km elevated MRTA Yellow Line—from MRT Blue Line’s Lat Phrao interchange station south to Samrong in Samut Prakan—is also currently under construction. The line will have 23 stations; heading east along Lat Phrao Road to Bangkapi Junction where it will interchange with the MRT Orange Line (Lam Sali station) before continuing south along Srinagarindra Road and connecting with the Airport Rail Link’s Hua Mak station. From there, the line will head south past King Rama IX Park (Suan Luang Rama 9) in Bangkok’s Prawet District, then travel west along Thepha Rak Road before terminating at Samrong station on the BTS Green Sukhumvit Line. As of Mar 2019, construction of the MRTA Yellow Line is 30 percent complete. It is expected to be operational in 2022.
MRT Purple Line — Tao Poon-Rat Burana (2024)
MRT Orange Line — Bang Khun Non-Thailand Cultural Center (TBA)
MRTA Pink Line — Nonthaburi Civic CenterMinburi (TBA)
MRT Blue Line — Lak Song-Phutthamonthon Sai 4 (TBA)
BTS Dark Green Silom Line — Yot Se-Bang Wa (TBA)
8/16/19 7:44 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
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This mixed-use space in On Nut is all about eco-living and cutting-edge innovations The concept of “going green” is gaining traction and momentum, especially with younger generations. With the rise of farm-to-table fine-dining restaurants, green hotels, and eco-friendly fashion labels, people are finding new, creative and efficient ways to go green. Leading the way in On Nut is the mixed-use space T77—a 40-rai mixed-use community that includes housing developments, a dental hospital, a mall, an international school, and considerable green space. Here, going green and achieving sustainability are fully-integrated into almost every aspect of life.
Green and user-friendly technologies are easily accessible at T77. Residents can rent an electric car and e-scooter through a ride-sharing service, recycle plastic bottles to earn reward redemptions or charity donations, and they can stay safe day and night thanks to street lights powered by the sun and wind.
T77 even boasts the first fully-integrated solar bus stop in Bangkok; installed in front of Habito Mall. It makes solar power even more accessible—anyone can recharge their phone while waiting for shuttle busses. These solar chargers, which support both USB and wireless, can produce up to 7,000 watts of green energy per day, which is equivalent to about 507 rounds of an iPhone XS’s charge cycle.
T77’s residential projects come in multiple shapes and sizes, and the neighborhood is quite diverse. There is a specialized hospital, a Japanese-style mall, and an international school campus— the famous Bangkok Prep. There, students learn to embrace a green lifestyle at every level; reflected in CSR activities and everyday school curriculum.
Clean energy is only part of the big picture. T77 seeks simple life changes to drive positive behavioral change. Waste management is a prime example. The trash rooms inthe area are functionallydesigned with a clear sorting guide and labels on each bin— to ensure residents sort household waste properly. Sansiri has also partnered with leading energy firm BCPG to provide a peer-to-peer energy trading service for the community, made possible by blockchain technology. Here clean and renewable energy (produced by solar panels) is used to power T77, and then its neighborhoods, too—up to as much as 20% of all energy consumed in the area. In a year’s time, this is equivalent to planting 400 rai of forests.
Brought to you by Sansiri
The landscape design at T77 is also incredibly green; offering plenty of fresh communal spaces, multi-generational recreational areas, leafy backyards and underdeveloped lots converted into organic vegetable farms. These collaborative efforts between Sansiri and its neighborhoods have been accomplished on five levels—greenovation, green
energy, green DNA, green neighborhoods and green space—and are reflected in T77’s design ethos.
These five green aspects have helped create a walkable, environmentally-friendly, community-driven space that’s hard to match. And T77 shows that by coming together, every generation can help create an eco-friendly lifestyle that’s seamless and sustainable; whether through resource sharing, efficient waste management, cleaner renewable energy, or educating younger generations on the environment. As part of an initiative to drive sustainability, Sansiri and its partners see T77 as a way to raise awareness among residents, and as a call to action for anyone looking to save the planet for future generations.
hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
10
01
Bangkok’s favorite online designer dress rental service gets a showroom
FASHION
Since bursting onto Thailand’s fashion scene in early 2018, Bchu Runway has been a godsend for Bangkok fashionistas. Its online platform provides gorgeous and elaborate designer outfits—which you can rent, wear and return. But deciding what to wear to which special occasion based solely on online web pages can be unpredictable and daunting. Conveniently, the label has now opened a showroom at Siam Square Soi 3. The first floor houses Bchu Blow Bar, where you can get your hair styled to perfection with a range of hair care and styling products by Balmain Paris Hair Couture (services start from B400), while also getting your makeup done by professional artists. Head up to the second floor to browse through evening gowns from top designer brands like Adrianna Papell and Poem, or make your way to the third floor to spend blissful hours browsing the showroom’s curated selection of cocktail and mini dresses, ready-to-wear clothes, handbags, shoes and jewelry. The showroom also offers personal styling services (appointment only) and Bchu Runway Post, where you can return items at a drop-off box, by post or messenger. Siam Square Soi 3, 064-192-6366. Open daily 11am-10pm
NUMEROLOGY
5 Hot Fall Sephora Launches Every Beauty Junkie Needs to Know Supergoop! AntioxidantInfused Sunscreen Mist with Vitamin C B750
Tarte Baba Bomb Moisturizer B1,600 Guerlain Terracotta Skin Foundation Stick (Limited Edition) B2,040 Sunday Riley C.E.O Glow Vitamin C + Turmeric Face Oil B3,380 Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel B4,280
ShoppingNews-BK#769-23AUG2019.indd 9
CINEMA
DECOR
SMARTPHONE
02 Indie cinema House
03 Revamp your home
04 Oppo’s new flagship
RCA gets a new home
After 15 years of screening arthouse flicks for Bangkokian cinephiles on the far-flung RCA party strip, House RCA has announced Aug 31 as its final day of operation, before opening a new location in late September. House Samyan will sit on the 5th floor of Samyan Mitrtown, a new mixed-use project from Golden Land Property Development located in the old Samyan neighborhood (behind MBK). It will boast three screens, as opposed to the original’s two and will continue to screen independent films from around the world with Thai subtitles. MRT Sam Yan, exit B1.
with iconic Danish design at this pop-up store
takes photography to new heights
While Soi Somkid’s House of Fritz Hansen is being renovated, the Danish luxury furniture brand will open a pop-up store at Central Embassy Sep 1-Nov 30, offering stylish creations for fans willing to splash some serious cash. Highlights will include iconic designer pieces like Anne Jacobsen’s Egg and Swan chairs (in water buffalo leather; B679,600), elegant PK22 lounge chairs and PK80 daybeds by Poul Kjærholm, and other home accessories such as vintage lamps by Jo Hammerborg and Christian Dell. 1/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-062-1211. Open daily 10am-10pm
What: Oppo Reno 10x Zoom Sunset Rose Price: B28,990 Why? If the Jet Black and Ocean Green colorways don’t tickle your fancy, Oppo’s dazzling limited edition Sunset Rose might. It comes with hidden fingerprint unlock, a panoramic screen with 6.6-inch bezel-less amoled display, Qualcomm’s Snapdragon 855, 4065mAh of fast-charging battery, 8GB RAM, 256GB of internal storage, and a tri-lens camera setup capable of 60x digital zoom. Available at Oppo Store, 4/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 095-557-1144. Open daily 10:30am-8pm
Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.
BUY IT MR. LEIGHT “MULHOLLAND” GLASSES WITH CLIP-ON UV LENSES These timeless frames (B27,500) are stylish and understated. Available now at Eyesmyth, 1/F, Lido Connect.
BIN IT SLEEPWEAR AS STREETWEAR Are you really that lazy?
BARGAIN CALM SPA “DETOXIFY ORGANIC FACIAL” PROMOTION Get a 60-minute facial plus a 60-minute Indian head-andhand massage for B2,300 (down from B3,177).
8/15/19 11:25 AM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
11
rasak BTS Su
3
Super Seoul 1 Cafe
The Fork Eatery BTS Ratcha
ala Da BTS S
thewi
2
7. Kenshin Izakaya
Vict
ory
Mon
Sky Train Jazz Bar
ume
nt
BTS Ratchad
amri
BTS
Aso
ke
BTS
Nan a
La Monita 6 Taqueria
155/1 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-661-6202. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm; daily 5pmmidnight. BTS Asoke
BTS Phlo
50-52 Sathorn Soi 11, 081-8817767. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
5 Stone and Star
With colorful beer crates for seats and hanging Japanese lanterns, this is certainly one for the ‘gram. Wash down a range of sushi, yakitori and tempura with reasonably-priced Singha bottles (B98).
en Chit
BTS Chit
Lom
Aesop's
BTS
4
BTS Siam
This shophouse stakes out its space in leafy Sathorn Soi 11 with affordable, home-style Korean recipes and a friendly atmosphere. Try the fluffy kimchi fried rice (B395) with gooey cheese and chili for kick. The restaurant’s modest drink list includes Singha bottles from B120.
Pha ya T h
ai
eng
1. Super Seoul
BTS
7 Kenshin Izakaya Asoke
MRT Sukhumvit
8. Robin Hood
ng
8
Phr om
Pho
2. Aesop’s
BTS
The party atmosphere in this restaurant makes it a great place to taste Greek food. Step inside for hefty lamb shoulders (B1,050 for 220g) cooked for eight hours. A bottle of Singha (B130) will lead you to the dance floor spotlight.
9
Room 597-597/1-3, P.B Building, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-6623390. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong
Ekk
am
ai
BTS
Tho
ng
Lo
Chu Restaurant and Bar
10
BTS
120 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1, 0625 6 7-7 75 1 . O p e n Mo n - S at 5pm-midnight; Sun noon-11pm. BTS Sala Daeng
Well known for its giant racks of ribs in proper barbecue sauce (B390), and the happy hour promotion which lets you enjoy Singha draft beer at B99 while watching a big match on the large flatscreen TVs.
Robin Hood
Nowhere
BREEZY BEERS Forget designate driver duties with our favorite dining venues close to the BTS
9. Chu Restaurant and Bar Head upstairs to discover an extravagant dining space where you can fill up on Chinese dishes such as Hokkien noodles with seafood (B190). Singha bottles are available from B110. 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 061-0565636. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Thong Lo
3. The Fork Eatery Enjoy international favorites in a comfortable atmosphere. The menu includes wagyu beef pad kaprao with onsen egg (B185), jim jaew pork (B140), Dutch mini-pancakes (B115) and specials like Aussie lamington cake (check for availability). Singha bottles start from B90. 365/9 Soi Phaya Nak, Phayathai Rd., 086-842-4426. Open TueSun 9am-8pm. BTS Ratchathewi
Brought to you by Singha Food
4. Sky Train Jazz Bar
5. Stone and Star
6. La Monita
It’s long, steep climb to the top, but Skytrain Jazz’s rooftop location makes for a wonderfully urban feel. Munch on pub grub as the BTS rattles past, basking in the pale light of Century’s giant marquee. Singha beer is available from B145.
Opulence meets Thai street food. Floor-to-ceiling windows, chrome columns, and dark brown furniture, plus classic tastes with twists and live jazz bands. Singha sets you back just B350/jug with a Buy-2-get-1 promotion.
A favorite spot of locals for an after-work burrito and beer. The vivid decor here is a nice backdrop for flavorful quesadillas and filling tacos. The burritos are airy, with luscious cream and tender steak, and go perfectly with a bottle of Singha (B105).
6/F, 6 Rangnam Rd., 02-6400303. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Victory Monument
7 Soi Chidlom Rd., 02-255-4079. Open daily noon-midnight. BTS Chit Lom
888/25-26 Phloen Chit Rd., 02650-9581. Open Mon-Fri 11am11pm; Sat-Sun 10am-11pm. BTS Ploenchi
10. Nowhere Enjoy 180-degree views of Ekamai and continent-spanning dishes with playful global flavors. such as African harissa chilispiced pork ribs (B529). The drink menu includes Singha bottles (from B120). 6/F, THA City Loft Hotel, Ekamai Soi 6, 094-516-6663. Open TueSun 5pm-midnight. BTS Ekamai
hit list | calendar
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
12
NIGHTLIFE
05
American rapper Wiz Khalifa to make Bangkok debut
SO POOL PARTY Get wet and chill against the backdrop of Lumpini Park. Aug 31, 1pm. SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 N. Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. B450 includes one drink. VIP packages from B10,000. SONDER - FT. DAN BURI, NEIL THORPE & ENCHAN “Welcome to the Jungle” is the theme of this underground house and techno showcase. Aug 31, 9pm. Mustache Bar, 544 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081-844-7080. Free entrance before 11pm; B300 after, includes one drink. POOL CLUB PARTY AT THE SUKHOTHAI A collaboration between French Riviera swimwear label Vilebrequin, the Italian restaurant La Scala and Portofino Pool Club featuring live DJ’s mixes. Aug 31, 3pm. The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 S. Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. B1,000 includes one drink. B10,000 VIP package.
LIVE MUSIC
PURPLE HAZE FESTIVAL VOL. 1 A live energetic hip-hop showdown between artists from three continents. Sep 13-14, 6pm. Impact Arena, Hall 5, 02-833-4455. B2,500 via Ticketmelon, and B3,000 at the door.
THEATER RUSALKA - BY EKATERINBURG OPERA An opera by Czech composer Antonin Dvorak to move you to tears; the fantasy romance of an immortal water nymph and human. Sep 13, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-2470028. Tickets from B1,500 via Thaiticketmajor.
ART
DISPATCH BY R. SCOTT DAVIS Davis photographed emergency medical services (EMS) teams in Bangkok. Exhibition runs through Sep 7. Ilford Galerie Bangkok, 460/8 Surawong Rd., 087-795-7796. Free.
CONCERT
American rapper, singer and songwriter Wiz Khalifa will be making his Thailand debut Sep 11. The 31-year-old is best known for his six-time platinum certified single “Black and Yellow” (2010), though he’s also rolled out smash hits like “Young, Wild and Free” and “See You Again” feat. Charlie Puth—the latter of which featured on the Furious 7 (2015) motion picture soundtrack. He’ll take over the stage at Central World’s GMM LIVE House, with support from Thai rappers. Central World, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd. B2,500 via Eventpop.
ALPHA WOLF METALCORE The Australian metalcore band is joined by five local up-andcomers—Annalynn, Hopeless, No Penguin in Alaska, Carry On and Terasa. Aug 24, 6pm. Live Arena, 23/92-94 RCA Rd., 098-974-6974. B600-1,000 via Ticketme. HOUSE MUSIC LEGENDS German deep house legends Tube & Berger headline. Aug 28, 10pm-3am. Glow Club, 96/4 Soi Sukhumvit 23, 086614-3355. B500 in advance, B600 at the door. SNOW PATROL The emotive British rock band will treat Bangkok fans to an acoustic set bound to include rom-com soundtrack staples like “Chasing Cars,” “Run” and “You’re All I Have.” Aug 27, 7pm. Moonstar Studio 8, 701 Ladprao Soi 80. B2,400 via Ticketmelon.
CONCERT
CONCERT
06 British indie-rockers The 1975
07 This indie pop singer has
return
enchanted the world
British indie-rock outfit The 1975 return Sep 13-14. Though they got off to a rough start—the group won the Worst Band award from NME music magazine, in 2014—the comeback is real. The band’s second album I Like It When You Sleep, For You Are So Beautiful Yet So Unaware of It hit number one on NME’s 2016 chart. Thunder Dome, Muang Thong Thani. Sold out.
Jeremy Zucker’s hit tune “comethru” (2018) melted hearts and reached a staggering 140 million Spotify streams and 100 million views on Youtube. Now, the New Jersey native will play his first-ever Asian tour date Sep 10 at Nakarin Space. His songs blend chill beats, airy rhythms and catchy lyrics with a smooth voice. 66/1 Srinagarindra Rd. B1,800 via Ticketmelon.
JORDAN RAKEI This fast-rising soul and jazz artist hails from New Zealand and Australia, and produces in London. Aug 27, 8:30pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, 1/F, 088-419-7380. B1,200 and B1,500 via Ticketmelon.
SPECS ON
Celebrate independent publications at this arty boook fair
Calendar-BK#769-23AUG2019_NEW.indd 12
Back for its third year, the Bangkok Art Book Fair is a platform for self-publishers to present their works, and a gathering place for artistic minds to share knowledge on print and design. When the number of independent publications rises, the world wins. Sep 5-8. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1 (Soi Atthakan Prasit). Free.
THE JAPANESE HOUSE The British indie pop artist Amber Bain, aka The Japanese House, is set to bring her bewitching vocals to Bangkok for the first time. Sep 10, 8:30pm. Lido Connect, Rama I Rd. Tickets from B1,700 via Thaiticketmajor.
STREET PHOTOGRAPHY The opening party of a Bangkok street photography exhibition by Thai photographer Jad Jadsada. Sep 7, 5pm. Glimpse Space, 1/F, Asia Building, Phayathai Rd., 081-258-6649. Free.
TALKS THE MLABRI IN THAI SOCIETY A lecture by German photographer Sascha Richter about the Mlabri ethnic group in northern Thailand, and the effects of deforestation on their land and ways of life. Aug 30, 7pm. Goethe-Institut Thailand, 18/1 Soi Goethe (Sathorn 1) 02-108-8200. Free.
BLOGNONE TOMORROW 2019 A tech seminar on the future of humans and machines. Themes include: Artificial Intelligence, the Internet of Things, Cloud Computing, and business tie-ins. Sep 9, 8am. Bitec Bangna, Bhiraj Hall. B2,500 via Eventpop.
SALES & FAIRS
‘REUSE IS GOODS’ AT DADFA MARKET PARK Declutter your world. Sell your unwanted items, make some money and make some friends. Aug 24-29, 11am. Dadfa, Lasalle Soi 33, 096885-8303. Free. T77 YARD SALE 5 A community flea-market where you can shop, share and trade second-hand stuff, with live music and food. Aug 31, 11am. Habito Mall, On Nut 1/1 (Soi Sukhumvit 77), 02-136-5932. Free.
8/16/19 7:49 PM
food & drink
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
13
ADVERTORIAL
FEAST OF A DEAL
Siamese Delights Restaurants to delight in Thailand’s rich heritage Methavalai Sorndaeng
How: Enjoy a triple retro vibe— charming old-fashioned European decor, jazz bands playing classic Suntaraporn songs, and Thai dishes made using 60-year-old recipes. 78/2 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-2243088. Open daily 10:30am-11pm
Get 10% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Prestige and ROP Preferred 15 Dec ’18 - 30 Nov ’19
Sala Rim Nam
How: This pavillion is a jewel on the river. It’s a showcase for classical Thai performers in the evening, and it also serves multi-course “Royal Thai” set menus that majestically echo the pageantry of the surroundings and performances. Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40, 02-659-9000. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 7-10pm.
Authentic Thai Lunch Buffet
- THB 950 net /person or THB 650 net / person for childern on Monday -Friday - THB1,150 net /person or THB 800 net / person for children on Saturday -Sunday Thai Set Dinner with Dance Show
- THB 2,450 net /person or THB 1,950 net / person for children on Monday -Sunday
Ruen Mallika
How: This traditional teak house rests in a peaceful garden, but is loaded with kitsch decor and Thai dishes that never tone down the heat. The restaurant’s recipes date to the royal kitchens of Ayutthaya. Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-3211. Open daily 11am-11pm
Get 10% discount on food and nonalcoholic beverages 02 Jan ’19 - 31 Jan ’20
R-Haan
How: Follow the Thai drawings on the wall through the entrance hall to reach the cozy contemporary dining room, where celebrity “Iron Chef” Chumpol Jangprai rolls out samrub (variety plates) made using seasonal ingredients and opulent Rattanakosin era recipes.
CITI Feast-Of-Deal-BK#769.indd 13
Ruen Mallika
Sala Rim Nam
R-Haan
131 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-059-0433. Open Mon-Sun 6-11pm
Get a complimentary signature mocktail ‘Sod-Chean’ and 1 special dish valued THB 1,024 when spending via Citi credit card (limit 1 set /card /table /sales slip) 15 Jan ’19 - 31 Dec ’19
Book a table for 4 persons and pay for 3 persons for Citi ULTIMA. Prestige, Premier, Mercedes, ROP Preferred and Select 01 Mar ’19 - 30 Nov ’19
Methavalai Sorndaeng
Brought to you by Citi
8/19/19 5:45 PM
travel | sapa
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
14
Run for the Hills
Mountains, hill tribes, rice terraces, waterfalls, markets and Gothic arcitechture: north Vietnam’s Sapa has it all. By Suthivas Tanphaibul
Embrace nature
Walk with locals
Nightlife in Sapa
In the heart of Sapa is Notre Dame Cathedral; a colonial French landmark built in 1895. It’s the centerpiece of the town and an easy spot to navigate from. Take a deep breath and calm your mind with a stroll around Sapa Lake with stunning views of the surrounding town. Visit the enchanting Silver Waterfalls (Thac Bac to the locals), where a five-minute hike will lead you to a steel arched bridge blanketed in cool mist. Here, you can enjoy magnificent views of the 200-meter-high falls flowing from the Ham Rong Mountain peak. Fansipan Mountain is the highest point in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia; earning it the nickname “the Roof of Indochina.” Conquering its height is obviously a highlight. But if you’re not up for the climb, Sun World Fansipan Legend Station provides cable-car rides to Fansipan’s peak (3,143 meters). Picturesque scenes of the Muong Hoa Valley, rice terraces and the Hoang Lien Son mountain range are guaranteed (B994/VND750k). A giant field of blooming lavender is nearby, for even more beautiful pictures. Stepping out from the cable-car station above the clouds, you will find Chinese temples and shrines, and statues inspired by Chinese legends. Do not miss the 21.5-metre-tall statue of Amitabha Buddha, the highest-set bronze sculpture in Indochina. It also holds Buddha relics donated by the people of Myanmar.
In Sapa you will immediately notice cultural diversity and a mix of both traditional and modern lifestyles. It feels recognizable and familiar, but also ancient and unique. To experience traditional culture and humble local life, head to Cat Cat Village—about three kilometers from Sapa city. Along the trail, you’ll get a glimpse of H’mong lifestyles; from wooden cottages to village women stitching traditional costumes. Set into rocky hillside paths are giant bamboo water wheels that generate hydropower. With the majestic Tien Sa Waterfall as a backdrop, dip your feet in the cool water and devour a banh mi (Vietnamese sub). Trekking is a must in Sapa. The five-hour route to Muong Hoa Valley through seemingly-endless mountains with tops that puncture the clouds will help you escape the flocks of tourists. Layer after layer of green and yellow terraced rice fields can be seen all along the path. If the locals offer you a chance to stay with them, definitely do not pass it up. It might be your best chance to experience their way of life; sleeping on the floor, drinking from streams, playing with farm animals, showering in canals and more. The indigenous people will surprise you with their excellent English.
Sapa is lively by day, and bustling at night. Sapa Love Market is held every Saturday evening, and is organized by local minority tribal communities. The market is a showcase for traditional crafts, art and music, and plays an increasingly vital role in local life. It feels like a walking history lesson; seeing people vividly displaying their culture and dancing and singing in the streets. Join them in some traditional H’mong hill tribe dress. For Sapa street food, just follow your nose. The smell of charcoal and herbal scents will lead you to local barbeque made with wild ingredients (from B27). As Napoleon once said “an army marches on its stomach,” so start an evening of dining at The Hill Station Signature (37 Phansipan St., +84-20-388-7111) for an authentic taste of Vietnamese cuisine. The temperature can be chilly and harsh after sunset, so drop by Hoa Phuong Restaurant (7C Ham Rong Rd., +84-90-468-3679) for a traditional hot pot to warm up. A Phu Restaurant (15 Fansipan Rd., +84-86-815-9900) offers H’mong specialties like thang co—whole-buffalo stew— a highland signature, which attracts a lot of tourists. Nothing in the world is more perfect than sipping wine watching the sun slowly set on the mountains. MK Rooftop Bar (at Pao’s Sapa Leisure Hotel, +84-24-162-5399) is set outside the city, and offers luxury dining amidst peaceful gusts of cold fresh wind. Drop by the lodge at Color Bar (56 Fansipan Rd., +84-97-440-9111) for a cozy rustic spot with warm service. End your nightlife journey at Relax Bar (72 Thach Son Rd., +84-97-706-5279) with some cold beer and cool vibes.
TravelFeature-BK#769-23AUG2019 (1)_new.indd 14
GETTING THERE
CURRENCY
STAY HERE
Tickets start at B2,500 (www.airasia. com) and B5,000 (www.thaiairways. com). Bus from Hanoi to Sapa (B400/ VND302k) or get a train (one-way, B1,100/VND840k).
10 baht = 7,547 VND
Around 45 minutes from Sapa’s center, Topas Ecolodge (www.topasecolodge.com) provides peaceful luxury accomodations (bungalows from B7,000/night). These minimalist
hideaway lodges will stun you with panoramic landscapes visible from the infinity pool. With a relaxing spa to boot, this is the perfect place for some downtime.
8/16/19 7:50 PM
travel | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
15
CHIANG MAI
09 This veggie haven is
08
all about hummus
Combine cocktails with sightseeing at Ayutthaya’s new attic bar
09
Tucked-away near the Thapae Gate, the bright and lunch-friendly Hummus Chiang Mai serves a bounty of veggie and vegan delights, including rich shakshuka (eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes, chili peppers, spices and garlic) with feta cheese (B220) and falafel sandwiches with fresh tahini (B100). Of course, the star of the show is the creamy homemade hummus (plain, B150), served in nine different combinations, ranging from beetroot and snow peas to roasted cauliflower (all B200), with a side of pita bread and homemade pickles. 109/1 Moon Muang Lane 4, Sri Phum, 099-298-5222
10
CHIANG MAI
APP
10 Check out Chiang
11 Breeze through
Mai’s latest hipster rendezvous
AYUTTHAYA
Located just an hour’s drive from Bangkok, boutique hotel Sala Ayutthaya has recently launched a bar on its top floor. With views overlooking the ancient UNESCO World Heritage Site and the Chao Phraya River, the bar adheres to Ayutthaya’s slow-life vibe with its chic, contemporary, cozy attic feel—perfect for a quiet, relaxing weekend getaway. Order the simple but surprisingly refreshing My Sake (Japanese yogurt sake, honey and lemonade, B320) or a Chiang Mai Red Truck craft beer (B295). Thai fusion snacks like beef nam tok tacos (B290) are also available. 9, 2 Moo 4 Uthong Rd., 035-242-588
ENDUROFIT
Thailand’s Big Six airports
Taste Cafe Atelier is a sister branch of Chiang Rai Road’s popular Taste Cafe. Located within Weave Artisan Society—an ice factory-turned-edgy gallery and co-working space—the sleek corrugated coffee counter is surrounded by brushed grey walls, minimalist hanging bulbs and pops of greenery. Settle in with a book and a cappuccino (B75), paired with a fresh-baked croissant (B65), or stay off the strong stuff with a signature peach and apple tea (B75). Be sure to drop by the art gallery and flower boutique while you’re in the building. 44 Wua Lai Soi 3. Open daily 10am-5pm
Airports of Thailand’s (AOT) new smartphone app promises real time flight updates for the nation’s largest airports—Suvarnabhumi, Don Mueang, Phuket International, Chiang Mai International, Hat Yai International and Chiang Rai’s Mae Fah Luang International. It will also incorporate booking, check-in and baggage information, wayfinding services, a traffic warning assistant, parking, and taxi reservations, and even translation. Five Thai banks have also joined; offering discounts on food, drinks and services in exchange for spending rewards and AOT points. AOT hopes to expand the app into Europe and Japan in the near future.
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TravelNews-BK#769-23AUG2019.indd 15
8/16/19 7:51 PM
food & drink | open doors
12 Powerhouse chefs join hands at Mia Restaurant The buzz: When foreign chefs with reputations and Michelin stars announce they’ve opened up shop in Bangkok, tongues wag. Julien Imbert is one such chef, with a resume spanning London’s Sketch, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Jason Atherton’s City Social. But Imbert is owner, not chef, at Mia. To run the kitchen, he’s appointed Top Russell, the former head chef at Freebird (and BK’s Young Chef of the Year in 2018), and his girlfriend Michelle Goh, the former pastry chef at Suhring. The decor: Mia’s three playful dining rooms could be named the Bubblegum and Flowers Room, the So Dark it Could be a Fetish Club Room, and the William Morris Meets Habitat Room. The downstairs bar is a more familiar experience, with its millenial take on mid-century influences—all brass, geometric wallpaper and dripping light bulbs. The food: They say “modern European,” which is a forgiving way of letting the chefs follow whatever whims they fancy, from comically decadent “foie gras doughnuts” with prune jam (B360) to aubergine in homemade Sriracha sauce with tofu (B260). Russell understands how to do comfort food, so it’s not all
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oysters in ponzu (B150 each) and hamachi ceviche with passion fruit dressing (B320). You’ll also find hefty sharing portions of Moroccan spiced lamb shoulder in caramelized yogurt (B1,850) and Darling Downs wagyu flank steak with “mushroom ketchup” (B2,350). For dessert, the whole tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream is already establishing itself as a Mia signature. The drink: Start in the bar with the refreshing Thrill of the Dill (B340), a mix of gin, St. Germain liqueur, dill, lime and Pisco Demonio de Los Andes—aka Peruvian firewater. Wines by the glass begin at B270 (Joseph Drouhin Macon-Villages, Burgundy, Maconnais), while for bubbles they pour a Deutz “Classic” Brut Champagne, also by the glass (B560). The rest of the wine list is extensive and heavily French. Why we’d come back: When the valuable yet fickle culinary box-tickers have faded away, Mia’s future lies with comfort cuisine in a grown-up setting, offered on a menu that can be navigated for around B2,000 a head. Oliver Irvine 30 Attha Kawi Soi 1, 098-862-9659. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight
8/19/19 1:07 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
17
Analox Film Cafe
NEW AND NOTED
13 Film photographers 14 Re-energize at unite at this hip new a yoga studio’s Silom spot vegetarian cafe Ever dream of sipping a latte while you develop your film photographs? If yes, then the new Analox Film Cafe (36,38 Naradiwas Rajanagarindra Rd., 087-768-2244) is a developing scene you want to be part of. Located near BTS Chong Nonsi, this ultra-hip spot is quickly becoming a hub for film shooters across the city. Alongside film developing services (color film B150/black and white B200), they offer a full coffee menu ranging from Thai-style espresso (B80) to matcha blend (B110). The staff is also extremely knowledgeable about photography and more than willing to discuss tips and tricks for blossoming film photographers.
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Sathorn’s Roots8 yoga studio has recently reopened its onsite cafe, Yogis Spicy (46 Sathorn Corner, Soi Phipat [Sathorn Soi 8] 02-234-0428), after a year-long closure. The wholesome vegetarian and vegan menu features everything from a taste of India in Yogi Pizza (B325) topped with masala chickpeas, okra and mozzarella, to snacks like the deep-fried Japanese pumpkin (B125). Outside guests are welcome, though the list of fruity frosty shakes (B70) and homemade yogurt drinks (B75) offers much needed refreshment for class-goers. The decor is, predictably, a bohemian mix of rattan chairs, patterned cushions, packed bookshelves and bright-colored table cloths.
15 Phrom Phong’s cozy retro speakeasy is already a hit To access Phrom Phong’s thriving new speakeasy, Mutual Bar (5/F, 3/7 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-550-6820), seek out the tucked-away elevator next to Ramen Ichiban and head to the fifth floor. A heavy door leads to the cozy bar, where neon red signage, retro furnishings and a pill-shaped counter conjure a cozy and almost festive feel. Cocktails span from floral and easy-drinking—like Juliet’s Lips (gin, Kwai Feh lychee liqueur, rose syrup, white grape juice; B340)—to unusual concoctions like the Vivid Midnight (B340) a heavy mix of brandy, Thai-style espresso, orgeat syrup, lemon juice, stout and zest.
TABLE TALK
Baltic Blunos 129 Thonglor Soi 9, 095-879-9075. Open Tue-Sun 6-10pm. BTS Thong Lo Bangkok’s first Baltic fine-dining venue is operated by celebrity chef Martin Blunos, who presides over two Michelin-starred restaurants in England. The laid-back atmosphere is ideal for Baltic Crossover set menus, with dishes like sea urchins served with som sa (acidic Thai fruit), as well as scallop with Mottra caviar, kombu bonito and fresh sea grapes.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount on food only for Citi ULTIMA, Prestige, Premier, Mercedes, ROP, Rewards and Cash Back 06 Aug ’19 – 31 Jul ’20
8/19/19 1:07 PM
LonLon Local Diner
TABLE TALK
Chu Restaurant and Bar 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 061-056-5636. Open daily 11am-midnight With a Thai-Chinese dessert cafe downstairs and a hip Hong Kong-style restaurant slash bar upstairs, this place serves up comfort food like the bak kut teh—pork ribs stewed with Chinese herbs—served with crispy patongo, and stir-fried pig’s stomach with mouthwatering pickled mustard greens. Drinks menu features creative cocktails that hip crowd would love.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get a complimentary Lime Ice Jelly valued THB 76.50 when spending THB 600 or more /sales slip (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip)
Hinata
NEW AND NOTED
16 Fukuoka-style yatai arrives in Phloen Chit Yatai BKK (Phloen Chit Rd., opposite Central Embassy) brings Bangkok its first taste of Fukuoka-style yatai (food stands). Sub-B100 yakitori (skewered chicken), Hakata ramen, oden (hot pots), and tempura are offered in a setting that evokes Japan with hanging lanterns, cherry blossom and noren. This is the perfect place to chill with friends. Wash it down with a two-hour unlimited buffet of Beer Lao and Suntory Highballs for just B299. Finish with a cooling purple sweet potato ice cream (B29).
17 Get your comfort 18 A kushiyaki food fix at this modern specialist has landed Thai-Chinese diner in Asoke From the owners of Chong Nonsi’s Local Canteen, LonLon Local Diner (150 Narathiwat Soi 3) is the new kid on the block for khao tom kui rice dishes. The chic, white aesthetic creates a laid-back atmosphere in which to feast on lunches of spicy duck drumstick stew (B165), rice sets (from B195 for fried soft-shell crab with five-spice soup and rice) and pomelo salad (B145). Head there in the evening, when the menu of gap glaem (Thai drinking snacks like crispy salted pork belly, B135) meets its match in a lengthy cocktail list (lychee martini, B195).
A tiny sub-soi off Asoke is the unlikely home of Hinata (44/26, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 063-317-5577), a new kushiyaki (skewer) specialist. Look for the white chochin (paper lantern) out front, to guide you in. Skewers (B20-40) range from bacon-wrapped enoki and asparagus, to cheese, squid, pork belly, beef and chicken thighs. The menu has larger dishes too, like omu yakisoba (B120) and charcoal-grilled chicken rice bowls (B120). Wash it down with a can of chuhai (schochu highball, B90).
01 Aug ’19 – 31 Jan ’20
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8/19/19 1:07 PM
food & drink | taste test
Who makes the best... salad cream? Not all salads are created equal. And that goes doubly for the creamy layers spread across the top. Salad cream should be a sweet-yet-zingy mix of vinegar, oil and eggs that elevates your greens to the next level. We put a half-dozen of the most commonly-found brands to the test. We got ours at Tops, but you can find them almost anywhere. By BK Staff
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
1. Heinz
The brand: This century-old brand is wellknown for its vibrant and juicy ketchup, which is now served in more than 200 countries. Its products include salad dressings, vinegar, canned fruits and vegetables. The taste: A perfect balance of sweet and sour with just a little bit of spice. It was easily the most outstanding salad cream on the list. No small wonder then, that Heinz is such a well-known kitchen staple—and the most expensive of the lot. The price: B112
2. Pure Foods
The brand: What began as a small local brand producing healthy salad dressings—19 years ago—is now one of Thailand’s largest food companies. The taste: The sour taste of vinegar slightly overshadows its sweetness, but it’s a great combination. The price: B49
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3. Kewpie
The brand: Established in 1994, this Japanese brand produces vinegar and mayonnaise, dressings, sauces and more, which it exports to over 30 countries around the world. The taste: Creamy and watery. It has a sweet taste at first, followed by sour undertones. It’s a nostalgic flavor though. It reminds us of childhood mayo at 7-eleven. The price: B80
4. Sukhum
The brand: Another local brand serving up salad dressings, mayonnaise and sauces. It’s been a Thai institution for over 30 years. The taste: Boring and artificial. It has a jelly texture and is so sweet that it tickles your throat. It’s a familiar taste though, commonly found in mixed salads at flea markets and street markets. The price: B72
5. Best Foods
The brand: This American brand is a century old. It made its name with mayonnaise, but it has since expanded its product line, and moved into Asia, Australia and New Zealand. The taste: It’s mild, and yet too savory with a spicy flavor like wasabi paste, and the consistency of heavy cream. The price: B62
6. My Choice
The brand: Central Food Retail Company has had enormous success building its brand with a wide range of sauces. It promotes OTOP (One Tambon One Product) village products which support local communities. The taste: Plain, boring and artificial. It tastes more like mayonnaise than salad cream; a little sour in the beginning, and greasy and bland at the end. The price: B69
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8/19/19 1:07 PM
food & drink | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
20
HOT OF THE PASS
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Martin Blunos brings a taste of Latvia to Thonglor
WALK IT OUT If earning some cash while ramping up your step count sounds like your kind of hustle, then check out GrabFood Walk. Launched earlier this month, the service employs people to deliver orders by foot within a one-kilometer radius.
BALTIC BRAWN
Big-name British chef Martin Blunos has teamed up with chef Aleksandrs Nasikailov to open Bangkok’s first Baltic fine-dining restaurant: Baltic Blunos. Blunos is a famous television personality in the UK, where he earned two Michelin stars for his now-closed restaurant Lettonie (French for “Latvia”). He has also appeared on MasterChef Australia. This opening marks his second Bangkok restaurant, following Blunos at The Eastin Grand Sathorn Bangkok—the chef’s first restaurant outside England. Meanwhile, Nasikailov’s restaurant Vincents, in Riga, Latvia, is one of the nation’s most highly-regarded. Now, the pair will be exploring their shared Latvian heritage in multi-course Baltic Crossover set menus (six courses, B2,900/eight courses, B3,400). Featured dishes include sea urchin with som sa; scallops topped with Mottra caviar, kombu (kelp), bonito and fresh sea grapes; and black chicken with foie gras, porcini mushrooms and Jerusalem artichokes. Baltic Blunos also has a chocolate room and a bar with its own menu. 129 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-117-1255
WE QUIT! Gaggan Anand’s restaurant saga has finally come to a head, with his eponymous Asia’s 50 Best restaurant marked to close forever on Aug 25. Following the infamous chef’s resignation a few months ago, almost his entire staff followed suit. It’s not over yet, though— word has it, they’ll be back within a couple of months with a brand new opening.
TAKE A SEAT
BURNT OUT
NEXT OF KIN
20 Osaka’s two-Michelinstarred omakase specialist hits Bangkok
21 Chef of Singapore’s Burnt Ends to host exclusive rooftop dinners
22 Yen Akat’s beloved northern diner is on the move
Calling all sushi fiends: some of Japan’s finest is now available in Bangkok. Chef Hiroki Nakanoue earned his reputation and two Michelin stars at the original branch of Sushiyoshi in Osaka. Following two further branches in Hong Kong, a fourth has now landed in Sathorn. Here, a delicate omakase dinner will set you back B6,800/person, served to a 12-seat blond-wood counter in just two sittings per night. Expect traditional sushi treated with inventive western touches and premium imports with stunning presentation. G/F, W Hotel Bangkok, 106 N. Sathorn Rd., 082-546-4456
Australian chef Dave Pynt is the man behind the high-flying Burnt Ends in Singapore. On top of holding a Michelin star, the barbecue restaurant bagged a top 10 spot in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019. This Aug 29-30, Pynt will be in Bangkok to help celebrate the Waldorf Astoria’s first anniversary with a multi-course dinner up on the 55th floor. Priced at B10,000/ person, the multicultural, multi-course feast will chart dry-aged Blackmore ribs, Jamaican chicken, fish and chips, and more, paired with wines. 151 Ractchadamri Rd., 02-846-8888
Having grown from humble roots as a street stall, Eats Payao has long resided in a vibrant four-story townhouse on bustling Yen Akat. Now, the northern Thai food specialist is moving to a refined new home just up the road at Tivoli Hotel. Under the new name KIN by Eats Payao, you can expect the eye-popping pinks and oranges of the old venue to be replaced by elegant Lanna-inspired interiors. Thai cocktails will be thrown into the mix alongside the classic khao soi (northern-style curry noodles). The move marks the beginning of plans to franchise the brand. 71/2-3 Soi Sri Bumpen, Yen Akat Rd.
BRIGHT STAR It has been announced that the long-awaited Capella Bangkok is set to open in the final quarter of 2019. The Singaporean owned hotel is going up beside the river, with dining headed by Charoenkrung -born chef Wichian “Lek” Trirattanavatin, who promises to bring the area’s rich culinary heritage to the new opening.
YOU SAID WHAT?
The news in online foodie posts
F&BNews-BK#769-23AUG2019_New.indd 16
“You guys forgot to mention Smile OJ. Hands down the best on the shelves.” FACEBOOK USER ARCHIE K KIRSCHER ON BK’S ORANGE JUICE TASTE TEST.
“I find it strange that you say Holey Artisan Bakery pastry is affordable?... Amantee or Kenn are more authentic at nearly half the price.” FACEBOOK USER GARDD CHINN ON BK’S CAFE SOCIETY.
“Artis Coffee on Soi 18 is a simple but nice coffee shop with good food.” FACEBOOK USER CHARLES STAMPFER ON BK’S CAFE SOCIETY.
8/16/19 7:56 PM
dining reviews
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
21
Chu Chinese Bangkok HHH 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 061-056-5636. Open daily 11am-midnight. BB
A harshly lit, bare white space with a simple counter towards the back—stepping foot inside Chu at first feels uninspiring, yet a swooping concrete spiral staircase indicates there might be more. Trust your instincts, because upstairs the spacious salmon pink dining room would look at home in a Wong Kar Wai movie—all warm vintage light fixtures, circular mirrors, big round tables, cozy booths and dark wood flooring. That sort of entrance riles you up for something out of the ordinary, though a playlist that yoyos between slow covers of Britney Spears and traditional Chinese music marks the first note of dischord. The menu, too, evades the playful vibe with its down the line comfort food from Hong Kong, Singapore, Sichuan and Thailand. That said, almost every dish we ordered hit the mark. Take the supremely comforting bak kut teh (B280), with its tender pork ribs and a side of crispy patongo—just perfect for dipping in the peppery broth—or the very sweet but satisfyingly chewy braised bean curd sheet in soya sauce (B80). These, like the springy yellow Hokkien noodles (B190) topped with plump, juicy prawns, earthy fish, a runny egg and rich soy gravy, are all well executed, if not especially unique. It is the stir-fried pork stomach with salivation-inducing pickled mustard greens (B140) that hit us round the head with its sour notes and perfectly non-chewy bite—this is a dish that could inspire repeat visits. The light and refreshing century egg salad
Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000
(B100) was the perfect thing to cut through all the heavy meat dishes, while the fresh and natural-tasting lime jelly (B65) made a great palate cleanser—it’s not something we’d usually go for, but it was a welcome recommendation from the staff, who until that point had been somewhat evasive. With its adjoining neon-lit bar, Chu is a tale of two parts—though they needn’t be read together, and indeed feel very separate. On our visit, the restaurant was dominated by Thai families, while the bar drew a younger crowd for its unique menu of Chinese-inspired cocktails and its superior playlist of American soul and African funk. Here, the bartender is unafraid to forewarn you of the unusual sweet-savory tastes to be found in concoctions like the Train to 2046 (B360), a unique yet pleasant mix of rum sous vide sweet osmanthus flower, lemon, quince gin, bak kut teh syrup and grapefruit bitters, served in a cute Chinese tea cup. If the restaurant would only takes its cues from the bar when it comes to music and service, this could shape up to be a very inviting start to a big night out. Allin-all, there’s plenty to be excited about at Chu: tasty food, an awesome bar, stylish decor and pocket-friendly prices. It certainly offers a unique middle ground between the distinctly high- or low-end Chinese restaurants you’ll find across town. Word has it they’re soon to turn downstairs into a dessert cafe, too.
Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music
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DiningReview-BK#769-23AUG2019_NEW.indd 19
8/16/19 7:57 PM
drink | live music
FooJohn Building
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
Jam
22
Studio Lam
Bandwagon
Now that Speakerbox is back on the scene, we’ve rounded-up Bangkok’s best spots for live rock, indie, jazz and esoteric sounds. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj JAZZ, BLUES & SOUL
Maggie Choo’s
Fatty’s Bar & Diner
WORLD
Adhere 13th
This stunning Silom basement bar offers regular jazz, and new names from the Bangkok indie scene. The space is something to behold, evoking decadent opium gambling dens.
There’s a real sense of community at this Rama 9 dive bar. Fatty’s is a major supporter of Bangkok’s independent music scene, hosting regular gigs from up-and-comers and events like the notoriously raucous annual Fatty’s Fest. Bring your preferred choice of instrument every Tuesday night for the openmic event. The kitchen has a real way with all-American junk food, too.
Studio Lam
This venue, just around the corner from backpacker-central Khaosan Road, packs out every night; indoors seats 20, so you might find yourself perched outdoors, Singha inhand, surrounded by loud and energetic music and a crowd of old-time expats and selfstyled local blues-men. 13 Samsen Rd., 089-769-4613. Open daily 6pm-midnight
Brown Sugar Brown Sugar opened on Langsuan Road in 1985, but has since relocated to Phra Sumen. It kept its Western menu and cocktails, and opened its new stage wide to local jazz talents like Tissue Paper and June & Mother Funky. 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 081-805-7759. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-1am
FooJohn Building This old shop-house feels like a retro Hong Kong diner or something out of In the Mood for Love. There’s warm lighting, carefully positioned mirrors, vintage mosaic tiles and a hip bistro downstairs serving cold cuts, crepes and wine. Upstairs, a prohibition-themed bar slings French spirits in drinks crafted from The Savoy Cocktail Book (published 1930). Music, from folk to jazz, plays every night except Sundays. 831 Charoenkrung Soi 31, 085-527-3511. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-midnight
Jazz Happens This small boutique owned by Nu Vudthivichai—one of Thailand’s most prominent pianists—showcases the skills of a wide range of performers, from contestants on The Voice to students and graduates of Silpakorn Jazz Faculty. Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-9934. Open Fri-Wed 7pm-1am
U/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix, Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Open daily 7:30pm-2am
Saxophone This 30-something-year-old brick-walled bar feels like a classisist’s safe haven. Old jazz and reggae hands (Koh Mr. Saxman, T-Bone) enrapture audiences at very close quarters, accompanied by new brigades of scene stealers; just a stone’s throw from Victory Monument. 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-246-5472. Open daily 6pm-2am
Smalls The absinthe-swilling, retro-styled Suan Phlu venue of David Jacobson (founder of Q Bar) hosts regular Wednesday jazz nights, featuring local talents like The Pong Nakornchai Quartet and Snappertown. 186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 081-819-6808. Open Wed-Mon 7pm-2am
INDIE Black Cabin This tucked-away, moodily-lit underground venue offers live music almost every night. The name fits. There’s neon red lighting and taxidermy animals, and a leafy outdoor area. The partner-owners of Ratchathewi’s Loyshy import jazz, soul, blues, experimental music and electro, along with vinyl-heavy DJ sets. 33/1 Rama 4 Rd., 061-515-6989. Open TueSun 5:30pm-1am
De Commune Witness an abandoned room in Thonglor’s Liberty Plaza roar to life with underground indie and reggae, d’n’b and psytrance. It combines a raw industrial design, black walls and red neon lights with a proper stage, a DJ deck, a quality (loud!) sound system, and a friendly crowd. Plus, the drinks are a steal.
598/66 Asoke Din Daeng Rd., 081-438-7221, 02-245-2965. Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight
Jam Nestled down a residential alley off Sathorn Road, this compact bar/gallery specializes in esoteric sounds—indie, dub and d’n’b DJs. On weekends, the crowd often spills onto the road, with the party continuing long after the shutters come down. 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-545-1833
NOMA (Now Our Mother’s Angry) Spearheaded by Kawee Soontornwan of Medium Rare, this venue breathes new life into Cosmic Cafe’s (RIP) old home on RCA. Expect local and international indie sounds (they’re a bit Bowie obsessed) and a raw ramshackle vibe perfect for getting drunk and dancing. RCA Block C, 21/66 Rama 9 Rd., 080-9397899. Open Wed-Sun 6:30pm-2am; Mon 6:30pm-2am
Speakerbox This Ratchada Train Market live music institution had to move but has recently found a new home in Thonglor. They didn’t miss a beat; pumping out shows nonstop, with talent like Temp, Fwends and Kunst. 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor)
A huge soundsystem blasts everything from molam to Ethio-jazz and Afro-beats onto a miniscule dancefloor bustling with a (similarly ethno-diverse) crowd lit on ya dong. Live sounds include Toomturn Molam Group, Yaan or the globe-trotting Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band’s unique Thai funk. Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open TueSun 6pm-2am
Tep Bar This self-proclaimed “Thai culture bar” is not your average venue. Its core soundtrack is classic central luk thung music. The band plays ra nad (wooden xylophone), sor au (alto fiddle) and ja kae (a lap guitar). It’s the kind of sound you’d hear in traditional khon plays, just freshly updated. Room 69-71, Soi Nana (Chinatown), 098-4672944. Open daily 6pm-1am
COMMERCIAL Baan Puen Baan Puen—”Friend’s House”—lives up to its name as a folksy, toned-down alternative to nearby hi-so clubs. Expect acoustic Thai originals and international covers, plus jazz, blues and alternative. 3/F, Ekamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10, 061-8241747. Open daily 6pm-1am
Wine Bibber Sangria This sleek, multi-floored bar sits somewhere between the much-missed Sonic Ekkamai and Grease (Sukhumvit Soi 49). Its new home in Ekkamai is a far cry from the dingy original in Thonglor. The roster includes 15 resident and oneoff bands monthly. Daily happy hours and an LED dance floor make for one fun night out. Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-714-0709. Open daily 6pm-2am
1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380. Open Wed-Sat 5pm2am; Sun 5pm-midnight
DrinkFeat-BK#769-23AUG2019_2_New.indd 22
8/16/19 7:59 PM
neighborhood | phra athit
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, AUGUST 23, 2019
23
Jazz Happens!
Babble & Rum
Comme
River Run Just around the corner from Khaosan, Phra Athit Road has always been a happening hood. Thanks to a perfect mix of cafes, restaurants, live music, fresh bars, historic sites and picturesque riverside views, this charming strip has us coming back again and again. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
Sheepshank
Coffee & Breakfast Made popular by regular appearances at local flea markets, Jaywalk Cafe (90 Phra Athit Rd., 092564-2068) does modern American dishes. Try the fluffy blueberry cream cheese pancakes (B150). Go all out with a grand breakfast set—eggs, ham, bacon and toast (B200)—at Chillax Heritage Hotel (10 Phra Athit Rd., 02-281-8899). For light bites, there are ham and cheese sandwiches (B55) and hot lattes (B65) at Latte Bua (138 Phra Athit Rd., 082-599-0959), or thick fudge brownies (B55) and caramel frappes (B140) at Like Italy (96 Phra Athit Rd., 089-776-6264). Veggies can get poached eggs and avocado on toast (B160) or mushroom cheese omelettes (B150) at H Cafe (12/142 Phra Athit Rd., 092-564-2068).
Lunch & Dinner For modern Mediterranean, like seafood paella with Spanish saf-
Jaywalk Cafe
fron (B360), head to industrial-chic riverside restaurant Sheepshank (47 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165). Some of the neighborhood’s best slices are the Napolitana (from B290) and Four Cheeses (from B360) at Pizza Pazza Phra Athit (24 Phra Athit Rd., 084-654-3223). For vegetarians, check out the stirfried morning glory with rice (B65) at The 112 Phra Athit (112 Phra Athit Rd., 096-964-4979) or the homemade Indonesian soybean tempeh with Thai sweet and spicy veggies (B140) at Joy Luck Club (18 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-629-3112). Go for Vietnamese rice noodles topped with eggs and mushrooms (B40) at Khun Dang Guay Jub Yuan (32 Phra Athit Rd., 085-246-0111); stewed pork noodles (B45) at Nai Chart Moo Tun Phra Nakhon (64 Phra Athit Rd., 087-667-3346) or beef roti mataba (B44) and chicken biryani with green Thai curry (B79) at Karim Roti-Mataba (136 Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-2119).
Nai Chart Moo Tun Phra Nakhon
Drinks A night out isn’t complete without mojitos (B200) and margaritas (B180) over live snare drums at Jazz Happens! (62 Phra Athit Rd., 084-450-0505). Hit up the street’s busiest bar, Comme (100/4-5 Phra Athit Rd., 081-860-9187) for spicy gab glaem (drinking snacks) and affordable drinks (beers from B110). If you’re tired of Chang, there’s Hitachino (B230) and Hoegaarden (B190) among others, at Good Story (72-74 Phra Athit Rd., 093051-7254). Chill by the river at craft beer specialist Dock No. 13 (49 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-5165); Riva Surya’s Babble & Rum (23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-633-5000); and Navalai River Resort’s laidback Aquatini (45 Phra Athit Rd., 02-280-9955).
Transport A ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin) takes you straight to Phra Athit Pier in less than 25 minutes.
Accommodation Just a 10-minute walk away, Juan Manee Apartment (276 Samsen Rd., 02-628-5800) has studios for B5,500 a month. Juldis River Mansion (Samsen Soi 3, 02-281-0776) offers 74-sq-meter two-bedrooms for B25,000/month. Across from Phra Athit Pier, Rattanakosin View Mansion (Soi Charoen Phanit, 02-434-0892) features units from B50,000-75,000/month.
Visit
Revel in views from the Koh Rattanakosin landmark, Phra Sumen Fort at Santi Chai Prakarn Public Park. Hidden in an alley connecting Phra Athit and Ram Butri roads is a treasure trove of hip vintage pieces, at The Trapeze Swingers (15 Soi Chana Songkhram, 086332-1045). Venture further for The National Gallery (4 Chao Fa Rd., 02-281-2224) and the royal temple Wat Chana Songkhram (Chakrabongse Rd., 02-281-9396).
BK ASKS
What makes Phra Athit Road special?
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NU VUDTHIVICHAI, OWNER OF JAZZ HAPPENS! “Its long and rich history, combined with its unique community vibe—shop houses and apartments— make it one of the most iconic neighborhoods in the Old Town.”
SOMKIAT PAIROJMAHAKIJ, CHEF-OWNER OF SHEEPSHANK “This area is just so charming— it’s lively day and night, plus it has a great mix of old architecture along the river, and diverse groups of visitors. Traces of the local way of life can also still be found.”
ANCHALEE PHIRUNTHONG, OWNER OF JAYWALK CAFE “Even though it’s a short walk from Khaosan, Phra Athit feels less touristy, and more vibrant. It’s “Old Town” but the atmosphere is lively thanks to a nice balance of cafes, jazz bars and restaurants.”
8/15/19 11:23 AM
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