BK E-Magazine 770, Sep 13 2019

it's free!

After Work Specials Bangkok’s best happy hours In the Air Sniffing out niche designer fragrances Art Hubs The city’s 20 best galleries Connecting Space Behind the scenes at the new Lido

Let them eat (moon) cake NO. 770 SEPTEMBER 13, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

Fine Dining Hacks How to save a fortune at Bangkok's best restaurants

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THE BIG ONE IS BACK! MARK YOUR CALENDARS!

12 - 29 SEPTEMBER

Karmakamet Diner

The Brasserie

Limited Seats BOOK NOW

3-Course Dinners at Bangkok’s Top Restaurants

For Only B1,000* or B750*

Get a Complimentary Dish When Booking via Citi Credit Cards

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Jua = Karmakamet Diner = Kisso Japanese Restaurant = The Kitchen Table = KOI Restaurant = Lelawadee Restaurant & Rainforest Rooftop Bar The Local by Oam Thong Thai Cuisine = Ma-Ke` Inu = The Meatchop Butcher & Spirits = Medici Kitchen & Bar = Mexicano = The Missing Burro Penthouse Bar + Grill = Peppina = Pizza Massilia (Ruam Rudee) = Pizza Massilia (Sukhumvit) = Punjab Grill = R-HAAN = Rang Mahal Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant = Seen Restaurant & Bar = Sensi Restaurant = Shirokane TORI -TAMA Bangkok = Siam Soul Cafe Siam Tea Room = Soba Factory = Somtam & Chardonnay = Spectrum Lounge & Bar = Sul = Taan = Urban Tadka Indian Restaurant

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*All prices are exclusive of 10% booking fee and 7% VAT.

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page 3 Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Craig Sauers Associate Editor Willy Thorn Digital Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writer Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Suthivas Tanphaibul, Reika Kobayashi Nidhiprabha

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

04

The Truth is Out There

upfront

Connecting artists in the heart of the city

We recently learned that mankind is going to nuke itself into oblivion in 2022. How can we be so sure? Some super chill aliens from Pluto have been casually communicating this message across the cosmic plane to a Thai star-gazing collective. Of course.

According to the Bangkok Post, since 1998, members of the (appropriately named) UFO Kaokala have been meditating beside a gold statue of the Buddha on top of Khao Kala, a low mountain in Nakhon Sawan. This location, they say, is where delegates of a Pluto-based galactic federation—described as extremely sabai sabai by the UFO Kaokala folks—transmit their tips for surviving the impending nuclear disaster. It’s like “Arrival” but with events unfolding at an upcountry pace.

But 2022 is kind of far off, and some days it feels as though we won’t even make it to 2020. That got us wondering: what problems could these interplanetary gurus help us solve now?

Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Business Development Director Jane Bay Senior Business Development Manager Madeleine Anantasuk Interns Jesse Day, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen, Jarupa Kiattipong, Puwanart Laddawan Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Megan Leon

06 cover

Toxic air

Thrifty fine dining

Nuclear ruin. That’s cute. Have our alien advisors ever tried breathing when the now-annual haze smothers Bangkok at the end of winter? Funny thing is it isn’t just Bangkok, either.

Last February, Chiang Mai also joined the dubious ranks of the world’s 10 most polluted cities. Maybe the people of Pluto have a better solution to offer than cloud seeding.

10 open doors

Lethal roads

Bangkok Trading Post Bistro

In 2015, when the World Health Organization reported that Thailand had the second-highest number of road fatalities on Earth—surpassed by only war-torn Libya—the government vowed to halve the number of traffic-related deaths by 2020. How’s that coming along, fellas? According to a recent story published in the New York Times, the country’s roads still rank among the 10 deadliest in the world, a problem exacerbated by the ever-widening chasm between rich and poor. Speaking of which…

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

03

Income inequality

21

25

taste test

neighborhood

Salmon nigiri

Phrom Phong

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

What happens when a sparkly new SUV slams into a family of four ghost-riding on a Honda Click? You get the picture. At the root of a lot of our problems is that pesky wealth gap.

Last year, Thailand was named the most unequal country out of 40 major economies surveyed by Credit Suisse. From what UFO Kaokala members say about their alien associates, Pluto sounds like a pretty decent place to be. Maybe they can share their tips for creating a more equal society. If not, we can always turn to Scandinavia.

Systemic corruption lol. Yeah, right.

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24 drink

Bangkok's best happy hours

9/6/19 6:40 PM

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SETPEMBER 13, 2019

04

HOT OR NOT

VIGILANTISM

The revamped Lido offers a space for artists to connect INTERVIEW

After closing in June last year, Bangkok’s 50-year-old Lido Theater underwent a major refurbishment and rebranding. The recently opened Lido Connect comes courtesy of record label Love Is Entertainment and Chulalongkorn University’s property division. We caught up with managing director Sirindra Mongkolmavin to find out what's changed.

“The Lido is not just a building, it’s the story of every generation.”

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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What challenges was the building facing before?

The biggest challenge for Chulalongkorn University was finding a partner that had the same vision—a place of learning and sharing; for art, culture, innovation and lifestyle. We all agreed: keep the original building, just renovate the content inside. This is going to be a place for youth, for artists and the public to come and connect; that’s why the name is Lido Connect.

What can people expect?

Previously, Lido was just a cinema with three screens. Now we just use one room as a theater.

The other two rooms have been converted. For instance, in Lido 2, we took out all the seats—to hold events like fashion shows, or live music. In the third room we took out all the seats and all the steps. We call it the “black box” because it has no limits.

Why maintain it?

The Lido is not just a building, it’s the story of every generation that’s been here. This is a very unique place, and we can’t let it go. Keep the architecture; just change the content, so we can tell the story of today’s generation, and then those that come after. It’s in the heart of Bangkok too, so it’s important to use this space to connect communities. We don’t need another commercial building; we need a space that tells Bangkok’s stories. Our motto is “let your story inspire our community.” Everyone can be an artist here.

How did you maintain the building’s original charm in the modern update?

That was the major challenge. We’re not selling space, but rather providing an art platform. So I think the charm will be maintained by our content providers.

Recently, the government increased the fine for operating a vehicle on the sidewalk from B1,000 to B2,000, and local officials began offering B1,000 to citizens who record clear photos or videos of offending vehicles.

If the authorities fail to clean up the footpaths, we always have Megumi Morimota. The Japanese exchange student gained celebrity status after she was videotaped standing firm on a footpath, blocking a shortcut popular among bikers.

How’s the initial feedback?

Theater lovers have been touched by how we’ve kept the ambience. They feel a sense of nostalgia and belonging. Live acts are excited, because they’ve never thought of the Lido as somewhere to perform before.

What’s your favorite element?

Anyone can come. We have an opportunity space outside, where people can perform in the street.

We believe that anyone can be an artist—they just need space for their talents. Already, we have artists lining up every Friday and Saturday.

I think it’s a great opportunity for kids, because they have a spot to come and improve their performance skills. To be an artist you have to entertain a crowd; you have to learn that. And last week we had street wrestling, so really anything goes. Jesse Day

SMOKING AT HOME Under a new law, you can now be prosecuted for “domestic abuse” if you light up inside a home, as the smoke harms those living under the same roof.

While you may view this as a violation of rights or an overstep of powers, the Ministry of Public Health is clear: 55,000 people died from smoking-related diseases last year, including about 8,000 from second-hand smoke.

CLOSING EARLY CIGARETTE COMPANIES? On top of criminalizing smoking at home, the Thai government has standardized cigarette packaging, banning bright colors and flashy graphics.

Thai cigarette companies were remarkably compliant—all the new packs arrived a full two weeks ahead of schedule, accelerating a 90-day phase-out of the old packaging. Maybe they saw the writing on the wall.

To the applause of everyone who frequents Soi 11, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has proposed pushing back last call and closing time for certain nightlife establishments to 4am—a measure intended to boost tourism and revenues. Alas, the agency emphasized that the law would not apply everywhere.

Governor Yuthasak Supasorn added that the 4am closing time would be restricted “to destinations which mainly cater to foreign visitors.”

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

9/6/19 6:41 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

05

Light up Your Life Turn your Bangkok condo into an art deco masterpiece with this new Habitat collection Take a quick look around some of the top interior design websites right now and you’ll see a lot of predictions about the looming brass trend in 2019. It’s not that using brass to add shiny accents in your pad is a new thing—in fact, it’s one of the older interior design tricks—but brass is a material that seems to occupy two spaces at once. It’s both rus-

tic-feeling and hi-so. It’s industrial but art deco.

This makes brass a flexible material when sourcing your options, and it also fits well into a range of st y l e s — c o nte m p o rary, traditional, industrial, etc. While its popularity waxes and wanes, it never really seems to fall out of style completely. This year brass in on-trend again, with the focus on understated

items that help make rooms feel larger and more glamorous without dominating rooms aesthetic.

How to dip your toes in brass interior design – start with some lamps If you’ve just minted your first condo or home outside Bangkok’s c o re, w e re c o m m e n d dipping your toes in brass decor in the most

approachable way: small fixtures. Items like brass drawer pulls and door knobs can subtly add a hint of luxury to an otherwise minimalist room.

Light fixtures are a great wa y to d o t h i s . Ta b l e lamps and other fixtures that hand from ceilings and walls come in the right size (they are big enough to be seen, but not so big that they over-

Recommend items

whelm), you can pair the fixtures with other small brass elements to accentuate a sense of luxury, or leave them on their own to add a nice shimmer to a room. Try pairing a brass chandelier with brass rimmed kitchen counters or tables, brass wall lamp with a shiny faucet, or a brass pendant light with door brass handles and knobs to give your space a bit of polish.

Habitat’s recent collection of brass lighting fixtures is a great place to start. Here are some of the most impressive pieces (all available in Thailand).

LIO - B4,100

Brought to you by Habitat

ATIK - B3,300

POOL - B3,300

IZMO - B3,200

IZMO TABLE LAMP - B2,700

cover | counting pennies

Thrifty Fine Dining Follow this cheat sheet to the best deals in town. By Reika Kobayashi Nidhiprabha

W

ant to eat at the very best restaurants in Bangkok?

Who doesn’t? Sadly, not all of us are rolling in cash—but don’t give up just yet. Although the usual trade off for splashing out on a B5,000 tasting dinner would be two months of strictly B40 street food, we’ve come up with some other solutions. From apps and deals to tips and tricks, here’s a round-up of fine dining hacks that’ll bag you a seat at the table, even when you’re down and out.

DITCH DINNER Plenty of restaurants offer daytime specials, serving the same dishes at much cheaper prices than at dinnertime. Here are some of the best lunchtime fine-dining deals out there.

Ginza Sushi Ichi This Michelin-starred omakase (chef’s selction) joint has a mother branch in Tokyo and uncompromisingly authentic sushi, using seafood flown in daily from Toyosu Market.

Tue and the last Sunday of the month).

fine dining with the occasional Asian twist.

Price for dinner: B3,399 for five courses.

The lunch deal: B1,000 for the two-course lunch set menu and B1,300 for three courses.

U Sathorn, 105 Soi Ngam Duphli, 02-119-4899. Open Wed-Mon noon-2:30pm

a star). His creative pan-European dishes are prepared using delicate French cooking techniques.

The lunch deal: B1,600 for three courses.

Price for dinner: B3,200 for four course tasting menu.

Price for dinner: B3,900 for six courses.

2/F, Chamchuri Square, Rama 4 Rd., 061-852-5411. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm

L/F, Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd., 02-252-8004. Open Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat noon-2:30pm

Rossini’s

Yamazato

The lunch deal: B1,800 for three courses.

This transplanted Tuscan villa is a long-standing establishment with an expert wine list and exciting guest chefs from Italy.

Price for dinner: B6,800 for eight courses.

The lunch deal: B980 for the three courses, B780 for two courses.

From the Ginza Sushi Ichi team, with a pedigreed mother branch in Tokyo. Try the tempura omakase of deep-fried dishes served around a sushi-style counter.

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000. Open Mon-Sat noon-2pm

Price for dinner: B2,500 for three courses

Bangkok’s Yamazato is more luxurious and contemporary than its Amsterdam forebearer, but it still draws inspiration from classic Japanese design and origami art.

Though kaiseki (fine dining) is the name of the game, lunches are far less formal.

The lunch deal: B3,000 for 14-course omakase.

Philippe is part of Bangkok’s oldguard French establishment and deals in unremittingly traditional, powerful flavors.

The lunch deal: B1,800 for 14-course Fuyo menu; B3,000 for 14-course Botan menu; B4,000 for omakase.

Price for dinner: B5,000 for omakase nigiri; B7,000 for premium omakase.

G/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-250-0014. Open TueSat 12-2:30pm; Sun 12-2:30pm

Ginza Tenharu

Price for dinner: B6,500 for 16-course omakase.

3/F, Gaysorn Village, Rd., 02-0700014. Open Tue-Sun 12-2:30pm

J’aime The Michelin-starred Cote Saint Jacques in Burgundy is one of the region’s most respected restaurants. Jean-Michel Lorain’s Bangkok venture is headed by Amerigo Sesti, who doesn’t shy from Asian inspiration.

The lunch deal: B1,200 for the five-course lunch set menu (daily except

Le Normandie This French restaurant is the original face of Bangkok fine dining. Everything’s super traditional, from the polished waiters to the perfect table settings.

Philippe

The lunch deal: B720 for threecourse lunch set menu.

Price for dinner: B2,200 for six courses.

1/F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8364.

Open Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm; Sun noon-3pm

Savelberg Dutch chef Henk Savelberg’s eponymous restaurant held a Michelin star in The Hague before moving to Bangkok (where it, too, holds

The lunch deal: B1,700 for the kaiseki set; B650 for the Gozen lunch set; B550 for the lunch rice box Price for dinner: From B2,600 for the kaiseki dinner set 24/F, The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-687-9000. Open daily 6am-10:30am, 11:30am-2:30pm

20/15-17 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-259-4577. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm

Water Library Chamchuri At the flagship restaurant of Water Library’s empire, German chef Mirco Keller dishes out contemporary

BONUS! Olta

This “modern British” restaurant comes from the former chef of Phuket’s Bampot kitchen, Jamie Wakeford.

The deal: Olta’s five-course tasting menu is priced at just B995, or B2,095 including wine pairing. Better yet, dine between 5-7pm to take advantage of unlimited G&Ts for B795.

101/11 Suanphlu Rd., 094-656-2159. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

Haoma

Taan

This modern two-story wood house with backyard views is the brainchild of two Indian chefs who are both zealots for the farm-to-table and zero-waste approach. They grow a vast array of edible greens onsite.

231/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-4744.

A locally focused, innovative—yet devoutly Thai—restaurant located 25 floors above Siam. Dishes include Thai wagyu beef shank in a southern-style golae marinade, and pad kaprao (basil stir-fry) made with sweet-and-tender Nan pork.

The price: B1,700 for the ninecourse Sam Rup menu—this might be the most food we’ve ever eaten in a single set menu.

Kaijin

25/F, Siam @ Siam Design Hotel, 865 Rama 1 Rd., 065-328-7374

The price: B2,390 for nine courses; B2,890 for 13 courses.

GO HOMEGROWN Dishes with ingredients not easily found in Thailand will always cost more. With “hyper-local” becoming an increasingly popular buzzword, there’s never been a better time for Bangkok’s homegrown dining scene.

Here are some of our top venues to sample local produce.

80/20 This year, Charoenkrung’s hipster hangout went upscale, serving tasting menus that revolve around fermentation. We recommend the sinfully crisp pork belly topped with infused mushroom and served with a fermented chili sauce. The tangy coconut cream with smoked goby fish is great, too. It doesn’t come cheap, but after being named in Time magazine’s “World’s 100 Greatest Places,” 80/20 could well be in the running for Michelin star status in 2020.

Located in far out Nonthaburi, this omakase restaurant by Natakorn “Tum” Changrew is dedicated to Thai seafood.

07

Which set dinner menus offer the best value?

We’ve broken down the set dinner menus at 11 of our Top Tables favorites to find out who offers the best bang for your baht.

01.

Haoma

B222.31 per course (B2,890 for 13 courses)

The price: For B2,500, you get 13 to 17 courses that flit between fresh seafood and Japanese classics—this sort of meal could easily cost double in central Bangkok’s Japanese omakase joints.

02.

Gaa

B246.15 per course (B3,200 for 13 courses)

39/1257 Samakkee Rd., Nichada Thani, 02-004-8127

03.

80/20

B250 per course (B3,000 for 12 courses)

The price: B3,000 for nine courses.

80/20, 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Soi 26, 02-639-1135

04.

Saawaan

B272.2 per course (B2,450 for nine courses)

05.

Bo.lan

B298.18 per course (B3,280 for 11 courses)

GO TEETOTAL

We know, we know. A fancy meal just isn’t the same without a nice bottle of wine, but you can literally slash your bill in half by sticking to plain old water (and don’t let them trick you into that B200 bottle of San Pelle, either).

06.

Upstairs at Mikkeller

If that idea sounds abhorrent, pick a restaurant that allows you to BYOB—in most cases, you’ll be able to open your own bottle of wine for a corkage fee.

For example, Eat Me (1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931) charges B500, while Water Library Chamchuri lets you bring your own for free—and yes, you read that right.

B316.70 per course (B3,800 for 12 courses)

07.

Paste

B370 per course (B3,700 for 10 courses)

GET THE DOWNLOAD When it comes to fine dining on the cheap, apps are your best friends. Download these effortless apps for awesome deals and discounts, right at your fingertips.

08.

Canvas

B400 per course (B3,600 for nine courses)

Le Du

Chope

Eatigo

Hungry Hub

Founded in Singapore, this sleek, free app means business. It offers instant reservations and showers you with 100 “Chope dollars” every time you book.

Backed by TripAdvisor, this free reservation platform lets restaurants fill their empty seats by offering huge discounts to diners at off-peak and non-busy times.

Buffet fiends, this is the app for you. Filter restaurants by location, cuisine, price, user ratings and more to discover the best discounts.

The deals: Trade 100 Chope dollars for B750 off your bill at selected restaurants.

The deals: Get from 10 to 50 percent off your bill at hundreds of spots across Bangkok. Five-star hotel restaurants are especially hot—we found 50 percent off W Bangkok’s The Kitchen Table; The Peninsula’s River Cafe and Terrace; Plaza Athenee’s Raintree Cafe; and Banyan Tree’s Vertigo, among others. When it comes to hotel buffets, seriously— you will never pay full price again.

The deals: Exclusive all-you-can-eat deals, with fixed prices in specific time slots. One example: two hours of all-you-can-eat a la carte at Scalini for B990—including Boston lobster bisque (a la carte B480) and Australian black Angus flat iron steaks (usually B840).

Get B500 off with a minimum spend of B1,000 at selected restaurants.

Deals change monthly. We recently found 50 percent off a second tasting menu at Haoma; a discounted (from B2,300 to B1,800) five-course menu at the Waldorf’s Nordic-Thai Front Room; and a complimentary dish at Michelin-starred Savelberg.

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09.

B572.5 per course (B2,290 for four courses)

10.

Sühring

B401.83 per course (B4,800 for 12 courses)

11.

Le Normandie B850 per course (B6,800 for eight courses)

»

9/6/19 6:44 PM

cover | counting pennies

BK RESTAURANT WEEK SPECIALS Through Sep 29, BK Restaurant Week (BKRW) is upon us.

That means you can dine at some of Bangkok’s best restaurants for a fraction of the usual price, with special multi-course set menus priced at just B750++ or B1,000++.

Here, we’ve rounded up some of the fanciest participants and the best deals. Book your seat at bkrestaurantweek.com. *regular prices in brackets, not including tax and service

3SAN

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

The place: A unique Asian fusion of Chinese, Thai and American cuisine that offers all the comforts of home, while adding fine-dining flair to old-fashioned recipes.

Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology

Menu highlights: Duck dan dan noodles (B250); seared duck breast with sweet potato, date and trumpet royale mushrooms (B390) BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

78/5 Sukhumvit 51 Alley, 02-0054085

Ash Kickers Briskets & Bourbon The place: A no-sauce-necessary ultra-traditional American barbeque specialist and wood-smoked purist—no gas or charcoal allowed.

Menu highlights: Beef brisket (B880); beef short rib (B1,060) BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

30/7-8 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-1204088

118/2 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-234-7749

The place: Sleek and sultry, serving boldly spiced Indian dishes and creative cocktails.

Menu highlights: Ghost dum biryani—mutton in nutmeg flower and botanical oils (B650).

BKRW: B1,000++ for six courses.

5/F, Fraser Suites, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-038-5112

Enoteca Italiana The place: Head chef Stefano Borra—former chef-owner of Michelin-starred Ristorante VO— serves rustic, traditional flavors with a huge wine list.

Menu highlights: Tonno vitellato (veal in tuna mayonnaise; B650) and wild salmon (B790). A set menu here runs B1,800.

The place: French cuisine in the Waldorf’s palatial upper lobby.

Menu highlights: Turbot provencale (pan-seared halibut; B900).

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

Waldorf Astoria, 151 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-846-8888

Bunker The place: Hip, grungy-chic; designed by Tim Butler of Eat Me, in league with on-site chef Lorin Janita and Nithit “Lenk“ Nithikampol.

Menu highlights: “Mac & cheese” cavatelli with breadcrumb oxtail (B800).

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

30/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-262-0700-1

The Kitchen Table The place: W Bangkok’s chic allday restaurant. The “Tipsy Cow” menu features stateside-style meats.

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

Indus The place: Chef Amit Kumar and Dr. Pushpesh Pant team up on long-lost, hard-to-find recipes.

Menu highlights: Hara bhara kebab and raw papaya murabba— shallow-fried spinach, green peas, potatoes and cottage cheese cutlets coated with rice flakes (B300).

The five course menu runs B1,500.

BKRW: B1,000++ for seven courses.

B2,500 (13-17 courses)

Sushi Masato B4,000 (approx. 15 courses)

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Sushi Misaki B4,000 (13 courses)

26/F, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100

R-Haan The place: Michelin-starred Royal Thai fine-dining from celebrity chef Chumpol Jangprai in a Rattanakosin era setting.

Menu highlights: The chef’s choice menu is 100 percent surprises (B2,600).

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

131 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-059-0433

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

The place: Avani Riverside Hotel's 26th-floor rooftop with a menu curated by Portuguese chef Olivier Da Costa.

Penthouse Bar + Grill The place: A multi-story steakhouse atop the Park Hyatt, with sweeping views and marble decor.

The menu is premium, and the cocktails hit the price-to-quality sweet spot.

Menu highlights: Chocolate profiteroles (B430). A three-course lunch menu typically runs B1,499.

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

34-36/F, Park Hyatt, 88 Wireless Rd., 02-011-7480

Rang Mahal

Karmakamet Diner

The place: An award-winning northern Indian restaurant in an over-the-top rooftop setting with exceptional service.

Menu highlights: Beetroot carpaccio (B490); seafood risotto (B790).

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

26/F, Avani Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-431-9120

Sensi The place: Chef Stefano Merlo pairs dainty creations with heftier meat and pasta plates. One of the first venues to sell out during BKRW 2018.

Menu highlights: Veal tonnato— veal eye round, tuna and egg sauce, capers and pickles (B590); ravioli creme brulee (B290). Sevencourse menus run B2,690.

BKRW: B1,000++ for three courses.

Narathiwat Ratchanakarin 17 Yaek 5, 02-117-1618

Menu highlights: Chicken tikka; bharwan khumb—stuffed mush-

Omakase dinners by price

Kaijin

BKRW: B750++ for four courses.

Seen Restaurant and Bar

71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900

The place: The local aromatherapy brand now has coffee shops and restaurants with on-trend decor.

rooms (B350). A three-course set here usually costs B1,195.

Menu highlights: Beef short rib (B650); duck lasagna (B580); 20-layer chocolate cake (B450).

2/F, W Hotel, Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000

39 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-258-4386

The Brasserie

Menu highlights: Cold Explosion— salmon and cod roe, pickled mackerel, white anchovy, caviar, avocado cream, melon jelly (B790); American Doughnut—pan-fried Majestic oyster, Manila clams and tiger prawn, topped with a salted doughnut and calamari (B590).

*some venues offer cheaper set menus and lunches.

Fillets

Tenko

Umi

B4,500 (16 courses)

B4,500 (14 courses)

B4,700 (13 courses)

Ginza Sushi Ichi B5,000 (approx. 15 courses)

Yamazato

Sushi Ichizu

B6,500 (eight courses)

B8,000 (approx. 16-18 courses)

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01

Chulalongkorn street art brings three Bangkok neighborhoods to life ATTRACTION

To celebrate the 36th anniversary of Chulalongkorn University’s Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, the school has launched Chula Art Town, a public street art and graffiti project that’s lighting up the walls of Siam Square, Suan Luang and Sam Yan neighborhoods. The project gathers over 50 Thai and international street artists, as well as a group of Chula students and professors. In total, 39 artworks will be spread across the three neighborhoods.

Visitors can expect to find 12 artworks at Lido Connect, 12 in the Suan Luang-Sam Yan area, and 15 at both Siam Square and around the university’s Faculty of Dentistry. Through the project, the university hopes to brighten up Bangkok, improve public spaces for passersby and give skilled artists space and opportunities to showcase their talents. Word is the duration of each art piece will depend on the location, and more graffiti and murals will pop up in the future. The project also plans to conduct a street art video contest for budding filmmakers and vloggers in the next few months.

NUMEROLOGY

IconSiam’s superlux condo, Residences at Mandarin Oriental, is now open—here’s the low-down:

B11 billion The total cost to build the ultra-luxury condo

B550,000750,000 Price per square meter, for a twobedroom residence and a penthouse

380-710 sq meters The size range of available penthouses

146 The total number of available rooms

52 The total number of floors

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING

TECH

02 Local aromatherapy

03 Blancpain has dropped

04 Barista-quality coffee

brand Karmakamet opens a four-story flagship

a range of ultra-exclusive timepieces

Karmakamet already sells in a dozen locations citywide. But its latest Instagrammable opening, in Siam Square, is the biggest yet. Stylishly dubbed Everyday I Love My Life, it carries signature aromatic and beauty products, including hip stationery, and menswear and womenswear wardrobe staples. Alongside all the fashionable items, a super-photogenic cafe is on the fourth floor—so you can while hours away sipping refreshing drinks, paired with desserts like Apple Shape Mousse (B220). Siam Square Soi 3, 02-237-1148. Open daily 10am-10pm

Bangkok’s elite have already snapped up the latest from Swiss watchmaker Blancpain. The collection revives vintage models, including the calibre 1150-inspired Blancpain Villeret Extra-plate, the Fifty Fathoms Barakuda—based on the original 1953 model made for the French Combat Swimmers unit—and the Air Command limited-edition, originally designed for the US Air Force in the 1950s.

If you’re loaded and you missed out, you can still get your hands on new models like the elegant Villeret Ultraslim (B646,200). Available at Pendulum, M/F Paragon and 1/F CentralWorld.

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT FORREST BAE POUCH BAGS Made of full grain leather and natural materials, these beauties feel refreshingly different (B3,900).

Available at Siam Discovery.

BIN IT JACQUEMUS LE CHIQUITO BAG It may be the hottest micro bag of 2019, but we’re not swayed by the trend.

at your fingertips

What: Nespresso Essenza Plus Price: B11,300 Why? Get your favorite coffee with just the pop of a capsule and press of a button. Both beautiful and effortless, the Essenza Plus upgrades the Essenza Mini, with a larger water tank, four brewing sizes and a smart reordering system. As with all Nespresso machines, the Essenza Plus is sleek with minimalist design and understated colors; befitting a stylish kitchen. Available at Nespresso Pop-Up Boutique, G/F, The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm

BARGAIN SAY NO TO PLASTIC, SAY YES TO HAY BAGS Shop at Norse Republics with a Hay bag of any style, and get 10 percent off on all accessories and stationery.

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food & drink

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ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

Lunching with the BFF Great lunch spots for quality time with the bestie Water library

How: Park this one in the “treat yourselves” category. A pioneer on the Bangkok dining scene, Water Library’s season menus and interior are a lesson in “special”.

2/F, Chamchuri Square, Rama 4 Rd., 095-085-7777. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Get 10% discount on food only 01 Jan ’19 - 31 Dec ’19

Baan

How: Baan dishes out unpretentious meals which prove chic, high-quality dining can be delivered at pocket-friendly prices—and in a strikingly modern yet inviting space.

139/5 Wireless Rd., 02-655-8995. WedSun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Mon 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm.

BTS Saphan Taksin

Yoong Khao Hom

How: Koh Samui’s two-decadeold Southern dining institution, Khao Hom, doesn’t mince flavors, but remains a very solid gateway into Southern food. Best for folks who like to keep the heat civil. The original restaurant on Samui talks up owner Malai “Lek” Somwong’s house-made kapi and prik gaeng (spicy chili paste with herbs), which appear in many sharing dishes here such as the moo pad kapi, stir-fried kurobuta pork with shrimp paste and a heady mix of sliced shallots, lime and bird’s eye chilies.

Yoong Kao Hom

G/F, I’m Park, Chula Soi 9, 063-4656565. Open daily 11am-10:30pm

Get 10% discount on food only 01 Jan ’19 - 31 Dec ’19

Get a complimentary Moo Dad Deaw Valued THB 250 when spending THB1,500 or more /sales slip 15 Mar ’19 - 31 Mar ’20

Water Library

Baan

Brought to you by Citi

CITI Feast-Of-Deal-BK#770.indd 11

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hit list | calendar

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NIGHTLIFE

Plaza, 1/F, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380.

B1,200 via Ticketmelon.

05

ART LES BALLETS

Catch Lukas Graham’s Bangkok debut

BREAKBOT (DJ SET) FEAT. IRFANE The French DJ-slash-producer brings French house, nu-disco and futuristic vibes to Bangkok once again. Sep 18, 9pm.

Beam, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750.

Sold out.

REVERIES - THE ANNIVERSARY Escape reality with a huge night of house and techno from this talented line-up: BeetKat, V. Alarik and Vane Madrid. Sep 21, 3pm. Iconic Studio 53, 63/4 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-662-8336. B500 via Ticketmelon.

PHATFUNK FEAT. COMMIX [METALHEADZ UK] Forget the techno and techhouse music trend—join this party for some drum ‘n’ bass.

Sep 27, 9pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, 1/F, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-4197380. B450.

CONCERT

Danish soul-pop band Lukas Graham (it’s a four-man outfit, not just one person) is coming to Bangkok for the first time at Central World’s GMM Live House on Sep 28. The band got a whiff of commercial success after releasing the self-titled album Lukas Graham in 2012. Since then, tracks like “Mama Said” and the Grammy-nominated hit “7 Years” have helped the band take the world by storm. The latter has been on heavy rotation on Thai radios for some time, so even the uninitiated might recognize sing-along lines like “once I was seven years old.” Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd. B2,500 via The Concert.

NOMA: ROOTS ROCKSTEADY RUB A DUB Groove to reggae beats and chill vibes from local bands Srisawaard, Roots Tone and Fyah Burning. Sep 27, 8pm.

Noma Bangkok, 21/66 RCA Block C, 092-264-7957. B300.

THEATER

06 Disney’s The Lion King roars on Disney’s legendary film “The Lion King” shaped a lot of childhoods. Relive those fond memories as the animated classic continues its record-breaking run on stage this month at Bangkok’s Muangthai Ratchadalai Theatre (in English with Thai subtitles). Since debuting to critical acclaim in Minnesota way back in 1997, the musical adaption of the beloved children’s classic has toured the world to the tune of over 7,500 shows—and it shows no signs of slowing. Theater-goers can expect an explosion of theatrical artistry, from incredible costumes and scenery to giant puppets and songs.

The show runs until Oct 27. 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd. From B1,500 via Thaiticketmajor.

CONCERT

07 BK Restaurant Week is back Look who’s back! Bangkok’s most exciting dining experience has returned— bigger than ever—with over 80 of the city’s best restaurants offering special menus at wildly discounted prices. Each set menu consists of a minimum of three courses, with an extra course for any diner who books using a Citi credit card. Always wanted to try the nose-to-tail dishes at 100 Mahaseth? Eager to sink your teeth into the seasonal cuisine at Michelin-starred R.Haan? With BK Restaurant week offering event-only special prices of B750++ (B883) and B1,000++ (B1,177) you won’t find a better opportunity. Dig in Sep 12-29.

Book now at www.bkrestaurantweek.com/bkrw.

MOVIE TIME

A big month for film buffs

INTERNATIONAL THAI FILM FESTIVAL 2019 Dozens of short films, animations, music videos and feature-length productions play over two days, plus panel discussions with film gurus. Sep 14-15. Ultra Arena Show DC, Chaturathit Rd. One-day passes from B530 via Eventpop.

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RISE INI KALILAH (“RISE”) Ruminate on the state of regional politics on Malaysia’s national day with this political drama. Sep 14, 4pm. River City Bangkok, 23 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 02-237-0077. Free.

SPOTLIGHT 7X7 Seven acting companies from seven countries put on seven short comedy-dramas. Sep 19-29. Culture Collective Studio, 3/F, Chatrium Residence Riverside, Charoenkrung Soi 70. B600 Thu; B700 Fri-Sun.

CINEMA DIVERSE 2019: GLOW !

This film exhibition screens four movies reflecting perceptions toward sex, gender, ideology and the LGBTQ community in Southeast Asia. Sep 21, 28 and Oct 5, 19. Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC), 939 Rama I Rd. Free.

MELA CLUBNACHT 2019 Underground house and techno beats from cutting-edge Bangkok DJ crews. Sep 28, 3pm. Live Arena, RCA, Rama IX Rd. B500 includes one drink via Ticketmelon.

LIVE MUSIC

SOIMILK FEST HEAD TO TOE Eight concerts in eight hours, taking place in a boxing arena. Sep 14, 4pm. Rajadamnern Stadium, 1 Ratchadamnern-Nok Rd. B700 for general admission; B1,300 VIP package via Ticketmelon.

YOGEE NEW WAVES TOUR The Japanese indie-pop band returns, with support from local bands Seal Pillow and YEW. Sep 15, 6pm. Lido Connect, Rama I Rd. B1,000 in advance via Ticketmelon; B1,200 at the door.

JAY PARK IN BANGKOK Korean-American rapper-slash-choreographer brings his “Sexy 4 Eva” tour to GMM Live House. Sep 21, 5pm. Central World, Ratchadamri Rd. From B2,200 via Do Concert.

JONATHAN BREE The Kiwi producer and singer-songwriter makes his Bangkok debut. Sep 28, 7pm. De Commune, Liberty

TROCKADERO DE MONTE CARLO, NEW YORK New York’s all-male drag ballet joins Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music 2019. Sep 16-17, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0028. From B1,200 via Thaiticketmajor.

LA VERITA - COMPAGNIA FINZI PASCA A perfect balance of poetry, beauty and acrobatics. The extravagant Italian show is also part of the International Festival of Dance and Music. Sep 21-22, 7:30pm.

Thailand Cultural Center, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02247-0028. From B1,200 via Thaiticketmajor.

THE (UN)GOVERNED BODY BY KAGE MULVILAI A dance performance choreographed by 2018 Silpathorn Award-winner Teerawat Mulvilai. It will also play in Japan, Korea and Indonesia. Through Sep 22, 8pm.

Saeng-Arun Art & Culture Center, North Sathorn Rd., 02-237-9070. B500 for students, B600 general.

SUNNY SIDE UP: A SMELLABLE PERFORMANCE A stage play based on two girls—a blind therapist and a bipolar actress—who yearn for a normal life. Through Sep 22, 7:30pm. Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC), 939 Rama I Rd., 092252-0024. B350 for students, B550 general.

‘IN-BETWEENNESS’ Local artists address Thai heritage through their special places in Bangkok’s neighborhoods. Through Nov 30.

Art Gallery at The Prelude, One Bangkok, Rama IV Rd. Free.

WORKSHOP

LET’S PAINT: EASY COLORING WITH IPAD A workshop that teaches special techniques for drawing graphics and painting with the iPad and Apple Pencil.

Sep 28, 1pm. Studio 7, Paradise Park, 61 Srinagarindra Rd. Free.

FAIR BEYOND BEAUTY ASEAN BANGKOK 2019 An inside look at the cosmetics industry, with special activities and discussions on the growth of beauty products in the global market.

Sep 19-21, 1:30pm. Impact Arena, Hall 9-12. Free.

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trend | culture trip

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Paint the Town A guide to Bangkok’s best galleries and art spaces. By BK Staff

and past—contemporary art and Asian antiquity—with retail and exhibition spaces, plus a bar and restaurant.

19 Charoenkrung Soi 30, 02-639-5871. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.fb.com/ATT19.BKK

BACC (Bangkok Art and Culture Center)

56th Studio & Private Gallery Wacky illustrations, creative furniture, unique graphic designs and new products from local names are what you’ll find in this designer-run gallery. It’s a design studio, first and foremost, and it eschews canvas art in favor of design work. The space is crisp, white and sexy, and often plays host to a pop-up speakeasy for exhibition openings.

Set in the bustling area across from Siam Square and MBK, the city’s foremost modern art center lacks a permanent collection but hosts temporary art exhibitions spread across nine floors and glimpses of the country’s best private collections. Small design-centric stores share the first floor.

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. en.bacc.or.th

235/10 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open Fri-Sun noon-midnight. www.56thstudio.com

100 Tonson Gallery One of the city’s foremost contemporary art galleries, this venue is located in a beautiful modern building with interiors by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre. It regularly welcomes high-profile artists including Rirkrit Tiravanija and Prateep Suthathongthai. The gallery prides itself on taking Thai artists abroad.

100 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-0105813. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com

Case Space Revolution Sitting above Thonglor’s upmarket vegetarian restaurant, Broccoli Revolution, this art space has a socially conscious slant. In collaboration with Sati, the space provides an outlet for multidisciplinary subjects, public exhibitions and activities.

2/F, Broccoli Revolution, 899 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-662-5002. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. www.broccolirevolution.com

Gallery Ver A warehouse gallery designed by artist Rirkrit Tiravanija, and an art studio by Takerng Pattanopas. Henry Tan opened and operates the adjacent Tentacles, a high-ceiling cafe in a separate building, that frequently hosts art workshops, exhibitions and activities.

The Jim Thompson House and Art Center The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses, filled with art, antiques, sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and silk shop.

Kasem San Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.jimthompsonhouse.com

Kalwit Studio & Gallery This gallery was once the home of Thai sketch artist Wal Chirachaisakul and his family. He has since renovated it into a gallery and art studio.

There is plenty of space for artist meet-ups and it frequently hosts gatherings, and showcases by emerging Thai contemporary artists.

This purpose-built white cube set by Lumpini Park facilitates all forms of art—paintings, video installation, live performances and more.

The owner is young and rooted in Bangkok’s art, skateboard and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes clique-y crowd.

13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open Wed-Sat 1-7pm. bangkokcitycity.com

Goja Gallery Cafe This renovated shophouse boasts a clean and cool Japanese feel. The gallery’s plain white walls are lined with art pieces, and the minimalist vibe plays well for the venue’s cafe and frequent live music nights.

H Gallery Set in a beautiful late-19th century Anglo-Thai mansion, H Gallery’s exhibitions often represent emerging contemporary Asian artists. Most are curated by Brian Curtin, one of the foremost experts and critics in the field. It is also home to H Project Space (upstairs) a floor dedicated to experimental projects and live performances.

Jam Bridge This four-story cafe-slash-art space hosts both group and solo exhibitions and features a mix of established and new local artists. It is run by a small group of creative types with diverse backgrounds, including PR and videography.

2198/10-11 Soi Taweewattana (Narathiwas 22), 099-454-5955. Open daily 1-6pm

Charoenkrung Soi 51, 089-666-2051. Open Wed-Mon 11am-8pm. bridgebkk.com

ATT 19

Cartel Artspace

This 120-year-old Chinese school turned sprawling multi-purpose art hub was beautifully renovated by the Attakanwong family (of neighboring Lek Gallery) with reclaimed wood, tiles and bricks. Its stated aim is the present

Don’t let the size of this gallery fool you. The single-room space owned by contemporary artist Mit Jai-Inn sits alongside Gallery VER—they even share a roof—and is a close neighbor to several other artist-led initiatives. It showcases

119/14 Ruam Rudi Soi 2 (Wireless Soi 2).

02-254-4629. Open Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. www.kalwitgallery.com

5/2 Pridi Soi 3, 085-848-7576. Open WedMon 10am-midnight. goja.gallery

201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm

Artist+Run

NEW_TrendFeature-BK#770-SEP2019.indd 14

41/1-5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0950.

Open daily 11am-8pm. www.thejamfactory.life

This multi-purpose open house/gallery sits in a 19th-century landmark heritage home designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno (of Neilson Hays Library and Anantasamakhom Throne Hall). It hosts art residencies and public events, live music and workshops, and the zero-waste Na Cafe.

160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-258-5580/401.

Open Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am6pm. www.sac.gallery

Located in N22’s creative space, this gallery is curated by Angkrit Ajchariyasophon, founder of Chiang Rai’s Angkrit Gallery. It acts as “a living room where artists are invited to present their work,” he says. Since opening in 2016 the space has featured sculptures and abstract paintings by big local names like Thaiwijit Puengkasemsomboon.

Ratchanakarin Soi 22, 086-911-3203. Open Wed-Sun 2-6pm. www.fb.com/cartelartspace

Bangkok 1899

Bangkok CityCity Gallery

This unique space is actually a gallery within a gallery—the Subhashok Art Center joined forces with the Parisian gallery Adler. Expect plenty of big name contemporary, local and international artists—given Adler’s connections with artists like Helmut Newton and David LaChapelle.

lery. The space also hosts Knack Market and regular concerts in its open-air courtyard.

Ratchanakarin Soi 22, 089-988-5890. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. galleryver.com

134 Nakhon Sawan Rd. Open Tue-Sun 10am7pm. bangkok1899.org

Adler Subhashok Gallery

boundary-pushing contemporary pieces and also design works with a socio-political bent.

This modest and homey shop-house is also dynamic and unpredictable; a hip urban refuge in an unlikely residential setting. It is home to the weekly Cult Movie night, and also retro gaming night, as well as live music performances, and frequent art and photography exhibitions by Bangkok-based artists.

41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-5451-833. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.jambkk.com

The Jam Factory Duangrit Bunnag’s stunningly-designed riverside compound includes a bookshop (Candide), a cafe (Any Cafe), anyroom furniture’s showroom (stylishly lowercase), restaurants (The Never Ending Summer, The Summer House Project) and—last but not least—a gal-

Kathmandu Photo Gallery Manit Sriwanichpoom’s gallery sits in a restored pre-war shop-house and includes exhibition spaces on two floors, a lounge area and a book store specializing in Hinduism and Shamanism. It is Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery, with a focus on Thai society’s transformation and urbanization.

87 Pan Rd. (Silom), 02-234-6700. Open TueSat 11am-6pm

Woof Pack Sala Daeng’s multi-story hub has a rooftop bar with lush park views, exhibition halls, an independent cinema, office space, restaurants on the ground floor and a fleet of street vendors out front. It hosts around six exhibitions per year—including edgy photo shows, Mad Magazine retrospectives, paintings, illustrations and more.

1/3-9 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 089-8262299. Open daily 7am-midnight. www.fb.com/woofpackbangkok

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travel | news

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MALAYSIA

09 Head to KL for this

08

month-long celebration of art

A contemporary Lanna resort on the Ping River

09

11

CHIANG MAI

Located on the banks of the Ping River 20 minutes north of Chiang Mai’s touristy center, Raya Heritage (www.rayaheritage.com) blends northern Thailand’s Lanna culture with contemporary design to stunning effect. Check into the 75-sq-meter Huen Bon Suite (B14,900/night), where classic high ceilings meet cream textiles, exposed sandy wood beams and a river view terrace, or opt for a 100-sq-meter Kramm Pool Suite (B14,900/ night) to take advantage of the private pool surrounded by lush greenery.

TravelNews-BK#770-13SEP2019_2.indd 15

Throughout September, Kuala Lumpur International Arts Festival (KLIAF for short) is taking over Malaysia’s capital. Visitors can expect craft fairs, a book festival, and a photography contest, which displays homegrown artists’ works on 10 skybridges downtown. Cultural dance and music performances will also be highlighted, ranging from drumming sessions to tarian klasik melayu (classical Malay dances) and Balinese gamelan (percussion ensembles). There is also a Disability Arts showcase, headlined by blind culinary superstar Christine Ha (MasterChef); blind Nepalese dancer/choreographer Shristi K.C.; blind photographer Jamaliah Mohd Yasin; and autistic artist Wan Jamila Wan Shaiful Bahri, among others. The festival was first launched in 2015 by the non-profit DiverseCity. Tickets vary by event.

For more, visit www.diversecity.my

SAMUI

SINGAPORE

10 Koh Samui is calling all Thais as tourism plummets

11 Singapore’s Grand Prix season brings bigname concerts

The recent drop in international tourists has hit Samui hard, with occupancy of the island’s 27,000 hotel rooms hovering around 45 percent in 2019’s first half. The dip in Chinese tourists has made the biggest dent, leading Surat Thani province officials to devise a twofold solution: allow planes to land more frequently, and throw a big party. Both measures are aimed at Thai tourists. On top of local parades, concerts and activities, this year’s Samui Festival (Sep 14-19; www.samuifestival.com) will include discounted hotels, ferries and tours, and Bangkok Airways will lower airfares (through Dec).

Formula 1 first hit Marina Bay in 2008, and it’s grown to a cultural phenomenon since. The actual race is Sep 20-22 but the festivities start Sep 13, and include DJs and pop-ups, fashion shows, precinct (neighborhood) parties, celebrity watching, after-parties, three-wheeled sidecar city tours and racing simulations. Red Bull’s Pitstop Challenge even lets you perform a timed tire change on a real F1 chassis, with real pit tools. This year’s concert line-up includes Swedish House Mafia (Sep 20); Muse, Gwen Stefani, Fatboy Slim (Sep 21); Red Hot Chili Peppers and Hans Zimmer (Sep 22). Tickets vary by event, starting at $98/B3,000 for a one-day Walkabout ticket (singaporegp.sg/en).

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food & drink | news

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HOT OF THE PASS

12

Italian mainstay Appia gets a new look and menu

DOWN UNDER After landing in Laos late last year, Thai fine-dining operation Paste is poised to open a third branch, this time in Australia—the home country of founder Jason Bailey. Though details are still TBC, an Instagram account is up and running, featuring teasers hinting chef Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun (pictured) will be at the helm.

BELISSIMO

Now well into its sixth year, Appia has made major changes in Phrom Phong. The setting is welcoming as ever and retains its charming trattoria feel with classy linen tablecloths and warm lighting. But there are new photos and artwork for the walls, and upstairs the mezzanine has been transformed into a wine room, filled with over 120 labels. On the menu, classics like porchetta are now joined by crispy pig’s head (B390) served with mustard sorbet, and comforting Cheeky Cannelloni (B590), filled with pork cheek and topped with foie gras sauce, parmesan fondue and black truffles. A lovely starter is the Battuta (B750), Appia’s very own dry-aged beef tartare—made from grass-fed Fassona; a breed from northwestern Italy. It is served with sorrel, anchovy crumbs and smoky bone marrow. If you can’t decide, opt for the Taste of Appia—three savory courses and one dessert (B1,400). Appia also has added a to-die-for pan brioche bread pudding topped with five-spice ice cream (B290).

GAINING MOMENTUM Until recently, 80/20 was a little known hipster hangout in the depths of Charoenkrung. Now, the Thai fine-dining restaurant has been listed in Time magazine as one of the “World’s 100 Greatest Places 2019”—best book a table now, before the word spreads.

TOP PERCENTILE

SEXTUPLE DUTCH

FRESH TAKE

13 Kyoto’s hip minimalist coffee shop is coming

14 Six Dutch chefs join hands 15 This farm-fresh brunch for one night in Bangkok spotlights Thai ingredients

Kyoto’s enduringly popular %Arabica coffee shop has announced it will open in Bangkok’s IconSiam in January. The brand’s global head barista is World Latte Art champion Junichi Yamaguchi, and the cafe uses beans from Ethiopia, Panama, Guatemala and Hawaii, among others. In just five years time, %Arabica has gone from a single outlet to 38 stores in 11 countries, including Singapore, France, Germany, and Kuwait. Further expansion plans include the U.K., Indonesia, Malaysia and Cambodia.

Dutch culinary genius Henk Savelberg (of Michelinstarred Savelberg Thailand) has lined up an exclusive dining experience—six chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants in the Netherlands, creating together for one night only (Oct 21). The wine-pairing dinner (B8,999 early-bird/B9,999 regular—available to book from Sep 21) will feature hamachi fish and eel with an elegant note of dill and yogurt, surprisingly harmonious scallop and veal cheeks in beurre rouge (butter and red wine) sauce and refreshing Irish coffee martinis. Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd. For reservations, contact 02-152-9000 or reservations@oriental-residence.com

A farm-to-plate focus is the centerpiece of Nimitr’s new brunch. Thai ingredients fill the menu in dishes like fresh oysters (B450/three pieces) and zuchini flower tempura (B260), whole avocado in shrimp crust, braised beef ribs in mulberry and green peppercorn sauce (B870), and duck cocotte with kumquat sauce (B750). Desserts include a pandan custard crepe suzette flambéed with Grand Marnier (B340) and roasted baby pineapples flambéed with Isan rum (B220). 27/F, 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok, 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02079-7000.

TASTE OF ITALY If you’ve noticed the gaping hole next to Vesper where Via Maris once stood, know that plans are underway to fill it.

An Italian restaurant and bar named 1919 is set to launch this month, restoring the side-by-side dinner and drinks combo.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

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“Massilia tries so hard to come up with modern pizza, but they were just sweet and weird (I am open to good weird, but this is bad weird).” FB

“Definitely can’t agree on complex flavors... really plain food and too much attention to presentation rather than flavors.” FB USER

“We will make a better place where guests can enjoy their dinners like I was never able to offer before...the end of Gaggan is the beginning of a new era in my family of 65 rebels...” GAGGAN

USER PONGPORNPARANEE TATA PUNGBUN ON BK’S PIZZA ROUND-UP.

TATIANA SAUTINA ON THE WALDORF’S FRONT ROOM.

ANAND’S INSTAGRAM POST ON THE CLOSURE OF GAGGAN.

9/6/19 6:55 PM

dining reviews

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

17

Quince HHH Siri House, 14/2 Soi Somkid, 094-868-2639.

Open daily 6pm-midnight. BBB-BBBB

On a buzzing Saturday night, Quince is a hi-so hub of well-heeled patrons dressed to impress. Gone are the farmhouse flourishes of the former Sukhumvit Soi 45 branch, replaced with sleek yet somewhat characterless mid-century furnishings, midnight blue walls, burnished golds and warm, dim lighting, plus an open kitchen. The look is borrowed from its popular younger sibling in Saigon, where a nascent fine-dining scene puts it at the top of the game. Yet, in Bangkok’s fiercely competitive climate, spectacular service and flashy interiors aren’t enough to soften the blow of inconsistency; having been swept away by the supremely tender BBQ Baby Octopus (B330) at the Saigon branch, we were disappointed to find it here slightly overcooked and chewy. Forgiveness can be found, however, in the wonderfully refreshing BBQ Chiang Mai Figs (B360), served on a bed of light and creamy stracciatella with honey, crunchy nut brittle and fresh mint.

Another hit, the Roast Cauliflower (B310) offers a deliciously light reinterpretation of cauliflower cheese, served charred and whole with a huge side bowl of mouth-watering cold Comte cheese cream, with added crunch from the herb crumb sprinkled on top. Hefty portions continue in the Wood Roasted Prosun Farm Coquelet (B830)—a tender whole baby chicken stuffed with smoking hay, which gives off a lovely bonfire scent as it arrives at the table. Though the dish comes with a huge side

Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000

salad of roasted baby carrots, new potatoes and greens, it was unfortunately soaked in an ungodly amount of dressing—a regular theme with the mains we ordered. Cooked very much on the rarer side of medium rare, (luckily we like it that way) the 400-day grass-fed 200g Stanbroke Wagyu Onglet Steak (B980) was soft and tender, but not particularly stand-out, save for the thoughtful trio of condiments it came with (whiskey mustard, tarragon mustard and nam jim jaew). With its mix of bitterly dark chocolate sorbet, velvety Vietnamese chocolate mousse, salted caramel hazelnut puree and texture from cocoa “soil,” the Chocolate and Hazelnut (B210) dessert offered a satisfying finish, whereas the slightly-tooeggy Blueberry Clafouti (B240) didn’t quite match up. Though you can order cocktails from Jacqueline (the bar upstairs), we found them to be uninspiring, easy-drinking affairs—A Day in Newport (B360) mixes lychee, lavender, lime and Prosecco for something refreshing but without finesse. We recommend sticking to the thoughtful but extensive wine list instead—try the 2017 Claude Riffault, Sancere Boucards, Loire (B2,400). With dishes quite hit and miss, it might take a few visits to Quince before managing to perfect your order, though we’re confident there’s a magic formula in there somewhere—especially if you focus your attention on the sides and starters. We’d certainly give it another shot.

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Symbols

Reservations recommended

Parking

Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume.

Specify which department you are applying for.

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Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

NEW_DiningReview-BK#770-13SEP2019.indd 17

9/6/19 6:57 PM

food & drink | open doors

16 Bangkok Trading Post goes casual The buzz: Phrom Phong’s luxurious brunch darling takes a casual turn at its new branch in Mercury Ville mall, offering mammoth breakfasts and pocket-friendly lunches right next to BTS Chit Lom. The vibe: Forget the soaring windows and marble counters of the flagship branch; at this mall-dwelling spot, whitetiled walls, wood tables and hanging ferns create a clean and straightforward look. The counter service makes it a quick and convenient station for local office workers to refuel.

The food: Like its older sibling, creative classics dominate the menu: eggs Benedict (B250); black angel hair pasta with plump shrimp, Ikura caviar, garlic and a kick of chili (B250); and what is quite possibly the cheapest avocado toast in town (B165). Yet, this opening is also set to act as a testing ground for dishes like the already popular Hong Kong-style congee (B120).

Our favorite goes to the giant plate of scrambled eggs, avocado, sweet Chiang Mai tomatoes and smoked salmon on toast (B250), though the mixed berry waffle with fresh cream (B280) is also utterly irresistible. You can opt to crunch your calories with salads like the spinach and

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pumpkin with honey mustard dressing (B165), but there’s no denying the satisfaction of the juicy steak (again, huge; B790), which comes perfectly medium rare, served with crisp-edged fries and addictively good nam jim jaew.

The drink: From quality coffee (Americano, B90) to downright bizarre creations like the Taengmo Surprise (B90), which is based on the old-school Thai dessert, pla haeng taengmo— who knew dried fish in a watermelon smoothie could actually taste good? You’ll also find refreshing Italian sodas like the Mango Mania (B90).

Why we’d come back: This has to be one of the best value breakfasts in town. If only our office was a little closer, we’d add it to our regular lunch rotation, too. Angela Symons G/F, Mercury Ville, 540 Phloen Chit Rd., 062-604-9882. BTS Chit Lom (exit 4). Open daily 7am-9pm

Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 10% discount on food and non-alcoholic beverages.

1 Jun ’19 – 31 May ’20

9/6/19 7:10 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

19

TABLE TALK

Brioche from Heaven

Fat Beef Meat Lab

NEW AND NOTED

17 A brioche bakery from Iron Chef's dessert specialist Walking down from BTS Chong Nonsi, the smell of freshly baked brioche oozes from Brioche from Heaven (156 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 064-847-0049). This new bakery comes from dessert specialist chef Kai of Iron Chef Thailand. Following the success of her Narathiwas restaurant, Soufflé and Me, the place is already selling out fast. Head there early to grab a slice of heaven, from Peanut Butter Brioche (B120) for an instant childhood flashback, to the more grown-up Apple Brioche (B120), paired with a vanilla shake (B120) or an affogato (espresso poured over gelato; B130).

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18 Get your “smash” burger fix in On Nut Easy Burger (12/2 Sukhumvit Soi 50, 099-007-0020) specializes in a smash technique, which produces a thin patty with crispy edges and a juicy center. The classic burger (B125) features organic local beef, dry-aged for 28 days and sandwiched in a milk bun with shallots, special sauce, lettuce, ketchup and pickles (B125), while the Bacon Blue (B149) comes loaded with gorgonzola, maple bacon jam, homemade ranch and pickles (B149). Add an extra patty for B49, or make it a set with fries or chips and salsa for B160.

Wash it all down with a chocolate shake (B99).

19 This hidden bar serves cocktails with Chinese herbs The Old Town’s Uncle Tim (337 Maha Chai Rd., 094-236-1545) whips up signature cocktails using herb-infused vodka—a fitting tribute to the shop-house’s former life as an apothecary. The property is still owned by the Tim Rueng Vej family, now home to Tim Mansion hotel (upstairs) and the third-generation’s latest addition: this oriental-themed bar. Neon red signage and classic Chinese movies projecting on the curtains create the scene for concoctions like Tim Rueng Vej (B588), a mix of vodka, plum, peach and herbal syrup, served in a tea set with old-school snacks. Pair your cocktail with drinking snacks like gyoza (B160) or French fries with Sichuan pepper seasoning (B120).

2/F, De For Rest Project, Nanglinchee Rd., 08-46662120. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight; Sun 4pmmidnight At first glance, Fat Beef Meat Lab looks like a quaint, neighborhood udon and sukiyaki restaurant hidden on leafty Nanglinchee road. That’s a good start, but the venue has more than quality meats and rice hidden up its sleeve. Charcoalgrilled tomahawks, spicy Texas-style spare ribs and crunchy German pork knuckle help to elevate this to an all-rounder meat-fiend’s paradise. Fresh seafood, like oysters, mussels and pickled crab, and a quality cocktail selection up the game even more, making this one of the best hidden gems in the area right now.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get complimentary 2 scoops of Homemade Granita Ice-Cream (Yakult & Matcha Green Tea) valued THB 135 when spending THB 1,500 or more /sales slip (Limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip /day) 01 Sep ’19 – 29 Feb ’20

9/6/19 7:10 PM

food & drink | open doors

AGO

TABLE TALK

Omotesando Koffee 3/F, Siam Paragon, 089-966-9995.

Open daily 10am-10pm The original Omotesando found a cult following in the backstreets of Tokyo for its painstakingly detailed style of brewing—one barista and one customer at a time. That location has closed, but the brand has expanded to Hong Kong, Singapore and Bangkok. Here, Omotesando founder Eiichi Kunitomo maintains a stake in things. Expect great coffee, but a bit of a wait. Try their hand-drip coffee made from beans roasted in Kyoto or something less purist like the iced cappuccino, topped with rich, creamy cocoa powder.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on beverage only 15 May ’19 – 31 Dec ’19

NEW_NNOD-BK#770-13SEP2019.indd 20

Paco

NEW AND NOTED

20 Coffee, crafts and vintage shopping in a rooftop garden

21 These colorful 22 Vegan treats at smoothie bowls almost Phrom Phong's Asa look like paintings Gardens

Design shop AGO (2 Nanglinchee Soi 4, 095-568-9372) has recently upped sticks, moving from its home in Thonglor to a breezy garden rooftop in Nanglinchee. At the new location, you can browse an impressive collection of vintage clothing, Thai design labels, accessories, vinyl and stationery—then recharge in a rooftop garden cafe with an Americano (B100) and a homemade almond croissant (B120), or an experimental Thai-syrup concoction like the Ago Amulet Mocktail (B160). While you’re there, also check out the ceramics, home decor and arts on display at neighboring Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio.

PACO Bangkok’s (249 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 061-919-9265) oh-so-vivid plant-based smoothie bowls will add color to your Instagram photos, and your diet. Made with real fruit—and free from added sugar, artificial colors and gluten—the bowls utilize hard-to-find ingredients, such as dunaliella salina and blue spirulina (both are algae). Try the classic acai bowl (B390) or get adventurous with the charcoal-based Black Magic—full of bananas, pineapple, blueberries, granola and sesame (B290). With contemporary art, cool posters, neon signs and an old school boombox playing funky tunes, the small cafe is the perfect place to kick back.

The two-story vegan bistro, Vistro (46/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 065-9982201), exudes positive vibes from the moment you ascend the bright staircase. Green plants and natural light provide the setting for vibrant and creative dishes, ranging from jackfruit larb tacos (B280) and gyro-style “chicken” habibi wraps (B290), to passionfruit cheesecake (B165) and homemade kombucha (B160). Even carnivores will find dishes to love here.

9/6/19 7:10 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

Who delivers the best... salmon nigiri?

Sushi Masa

Though we'd love to fly to Japan or head to one of Bangkok's high-end omakase joints every time we have a craving for salmon nigiri, we're far more likely to call on the ever-reliable Foodpanda, Lineman, or GrabFood to deliver the goods. But there's nothing worse than waiting an hour for your food to arrive, only to be met with fishy smells and crumbly rice. We tested seven of the most popular sushi delivery options to save you from that potential disappointment. By BK Staff

Winner!

The taste: This visually appealing sushi looks authentic and fresh-made. The fish tastes high-quality and has the right texture; it's not too fatty and there's just the right amount of vinegar on the rice to bring out the flavor of the fish.

Verdict: Perfect balance.

Price: B80 per piece 65/3 Athenee Residence Building, Witthayu Rd., 02-168-5214. Available on Lineman.

Nippon Kai

Runner

The taste: Though smaller in Up! size than the rest, the fish is not too fatty and offers a firm yet tender texture. Unfortunately, the flavor is a little bland. Still, it's not bad for delivery.

Verdict: You're alright.

Price: B60 per piece G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-7622.

Available on Lineman.

Sushi Den The taste: Visually beautiful—almost too pretty to eat! The generously thick cut of fish is disappointingly overshadowed by its too soft texture and sour rice.

Verdict: Don't judge a book by its cover.

Price: B80 Various branches; try Siam Square Soi 1.

Available on GrabFood.

Sei Ryu Sushi

21

Sushi Hiro The taste: Visually pleasing, but the rather thin slice of salmon is fishy and cheap tasting.

Overall, very bland sushi—all the way down to the rice.

Verdict: Something's fishy.

Price: B80 per piece Various branches; try Ramintra Soi 57, 063-217-7076. Available on Lineman.

Kaizen Sushi & Hibachi The taste: The thick, firm chunk of fish appears promising at first. Unfortunately, the salmon is way too fatty and greasy, making the size more of a chore than a pleasure. The rice is tasteless and falls apart.

Verdict: Seconds? No, thanks.

Price: B70 per piece 318 Evergreen Place, Phayathai Rd., 02-215-2972. Available on FoodPanda.

Honmono Sushi

Yikes!

The taste: This one is a complete disaster. It doesn’t even look appealing, and seems like end-of-the-day, tired, poor fish. The salmon tastes oily and even sour, with an awful "fishy" smell. We were shocked to find afterwards that this is by far the priciest of the lot.

Verdict: Can we get a refund?

Price: B150 per piece Various branches; try 4/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9240.

Available on Lineman.

The taste: The salmon on this bite-sized sushi looks a little pale, but it has a firm texture and a decent taste. However, the rice is too vinegary and the pieces are too small.

Verdict: Needs work.

Price: B60 per piece Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-636-3342.

Available on Lineman.

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22

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

Bangkok’s biggest nightlife awards are back for 2019 BK’s BAD Awards celebrate the very best of Bangkok when the sun goes down, from cocktail lounges to buzzing clubs and local dives.

Book your ad in the print guide within Sep 30 and get 30% OFF!

SEE MORE HERE

For bookings, please call 02-624-9696 (sales dept) or email advertising@asia-city.co.th

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Where to find BK Magazine ARI Ari Hills Baby Bar Bangkok Caffe Undici Casa Lapin x Ari Porcupine Café Starbucks La Villa Phaholyothin ASOKE Chocolaterie Chu Home Work Kuppa Restaurant Kuppadeli Asoke Monstar lab Thailand Pan's all day eatery Peppina Simple Natural Kitchen Starbucks at Jasmine City Starbucks CTI tower Starbucks Exchange Tower Starbucks GMM Grammy Bldg.

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PAKKRET/RANGSIT

RATCHADA

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Starbucks Sport City Starbucks The Crystal PTT Chaiyapruek

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NANA/PROMPHONG

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The Ninth Cafe' Paragorn

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8/16/19 2:43 PM

9/6/19 7:15 PM

shopping | indie perfumes

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

23

Fresh Perspective There’s something in the air, and it’s not PM2.5.

Niche perfumes are a booming industry, and one that the beauty counters in Bangkok malls are right on board with. That means it’s not too hard to smell out these designer bottles in even the most mainstream department stores. By Chayanid Udomrattanasirichai

Le Labo

Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Le Labo

Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The brand: French for “the laboratory,” Le Labo grew in popularity after its 2014 acquisition by Estee Lauder. It specializes in hand-blended fragrances and even allows customers to customize their own bottles.

Our pick: Le Labo Santal 33. The combination of cardamom, iris and violet also includes notes of sandalwood, papyrus and cedarwood. The unique blend brings spicy, leathery and woody aromas; blended into one of the most complex and unique scents we’ve ever experienced.

Believe the hype.

When to wear: It works perfectly in cool temperatures and for special nights out; lasting up to eight hours.

Who’s it for: Moneyed indie kids.

Where to get it: King Power, 8 Soi Rang Nam, 02-2058888. Open daily 10am-9:30pm. BTS Victory Monument Price: B9,035

The brand: In 1995, Francis Kurkdjian created Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male, one of the best-selling male fragrances of all time. After many years of experience as a perfumer, he launched his own fragrance line in 2009, which has topped the industry since.

Our pick: Aqua Universalis Forte. It begins with refreshing scents of bergamot and lemon, then blends harmoniously with sweet florals and wood scents. This fragrance is extremely natural, yet sophisticated.

When to wear: From a balmy day to a formal dinner.

Who’s it for: Though it leans feminine, a man who prefers soft and clean scents will fall for it.

Where to get it: Beauty Hall, M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam Price: B7,999

Diptyque The brand: This French brand was founded in 1961 by three artists. It is well-known for bizarre scents of perfumes and candles with its intricate iconography on oval labels.

Our pick: Diptyque Eau Rose. This fruity-floral fragrance opens with fresh and juicy bergamot, blackcurrant and lychee, followed by subtle and realistic rose scents.

Wearing it is like walking through a majestic rose garden.

When to wear: In the daytime, when you want to feel a bit feminine, without overpowering anyone’s senses.

Who’s it for: Women who enjoy light floral scents.

Where to get it: Beauty Hall, M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam Price: B6,550

Diptyque

Atelier Cologne

Frederic Malle The brand: Malle’s grandfather was the founder of Parfums Christian Dior, so Malle has been well -educated, and he is intensely passionate about his craft. After a quarter century as a perfume expert, he created this perfume house in 2000. His core focus was perfumes sold under perfumers’ names.

Our pick: Musc Ravageur. This oriental fragrance is the brand’s most iconic perfume; known for its heavy, oneof-a-kind opening note of musk. Enhanced by lavender and vanilla bases, it balances masculine with sweet.

When to wear: Perfect for everyday wear—from workplace to gala events.

Who’s it for: A gentle, yet seductive man.

Where to get it: Beauty Hall, M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam Price: B9,799

The brand: Inspired by the first eau de cologne, a couple launched this Paris-based house in 2009. Its perfumes are well-loved for their citrus scents and raw natural materials, which make the aromas subtle, yet long-lasting.

Our pick: Oolang Infini; a citrus fragrance fresh as morning air, blended with sweet oolong tea and florals. As it dries, it captures the comfort of sitting in front of a fireplace, wafting notes of gaiac wood and musk.

When to wear: Another daytime fragrance to wear to the office.

Who’s it for: Anyone who loves clean scents, or shies from overpowering aromas.

Where to get it: King Power, 8 Soi Rang Nam, 02-2058888. Open daily 10am-9:30pm. BTS Victory Monument Price: B5,935

Atelier Cologne

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Frederic Malle

9/6/19 7:16 PM

drink | on the cheap

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

Find the Locker Room

24

Hi-So Happy Hours

Broke until payday? Get plastered on a budget in Bangkok’s poshest bars with this handy guide to the best happy hours in town.

By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

Find the Locker Room

Sky on 20

Where: Find The Locker Room What: “Aperitivo Hour” runs every day from 6 to 8pm with select cocktails for B200—like the signature espresso martini made with Catunambu Spanish coffee.

Vibe: Hidden behind a bunch of lockers. Once you manage to find the entrance, you will find a very cozy two-floor bar serving drinks made by quite prolific cocktail masterminds.

406 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-524-2689

Where: Sky on 20 What: Beers for B120, and cocktails for B200 (5-8pm).

Vibe: Very, very underrated. An actual, no-joke affordable rooftop bar! The sunset here is just as beautiful as it is at any of the B450 cocktail joints.

26/F, Novotel Bangkok Hotel, 19/9 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-009-4999

Where: Niche, Siam Kempinski What: The “Longest Happy Hour”—buy-one-get-one on selected beers (280) and cocktails (B450), from midday until 8pm.

We recommend the negroni —Beefeater 24 gin, Campari, Antica Formula vermouth, grapefruit bitters and blood orange liqueur.

Vibe: Surprising. So posh and luxurious, and yet still affordable.

You’d never expect it to be right in the city center; even less on one of the most expensive pieces of land in all of Thailand.

Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000

Where: Find The Photo Booth What: B200 “Aperitivo Hour” runs from 6pm to 8pm every day, for select cocktails like the Chrysanthemum—absinthe,

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Octave

Beer Belly

dry vermouth, and Benedictine D.O.M. Vibe: The cocktails at Find the Locker Room’s sister bar are created by the same team, but we prefer this location. It really brings a nice touch to Sukhumvit Soi 11. We can’t tell you the exact location, only that it’s hidden within a sports bar.

Vibe: Comfortable. It’s easy to try new wines and quiz the sommelier. Chef Arnie Marcella, formerly of Bunker, has recently refreshed the menu here, too—try the hand-cut pappardelle with braised duck ragu, parmesan cream and duck skin crumble (B380).

Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-117-2636

Where: Beer Belly What: Buy-one-get-one on all draft beers, every day from 5 to 8pm. A pint of Chalawan will set you back B350.

Vibe: Spacious. It’s the only place in the 72 compound that hosts live bands, so it’s often frequented by Thai pool table kids.

Where: The 51 Tasty Moments What: Two hours of free-flow wine (6:30-8:30pm; Tue-Sun) featuring a mix of French, Spanish and American bottles.

Vibe: Another one of those Commons-y, kiosk type places where you order food from a range of vendors, and then enjoy it in a big, open communal space—walking around barefoot on their (fake) lawn, long after you’re drunk.

64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 092-552-5012

Where: Octave What: Half-price signature cocktails, every day from 5 to 7pm; enjoyed atop the city. Drinks start at B410 for exotic concoctions like the Coconut Island—vanilla vodka, caramel frangelico, honey, mango and coconut milk.

Vibe: This is the place your out-of-town friends have read about and will definitely drag you to.

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000

72 Courtyard Where: Carbar What: Buy-one-get-one wine by the glass, every day from 6 to 8pm, with Prosecco from B320.

Where: Evil Man Blues What: Buy-one-get-one on signature cocktails (Sun-Thu, 5-8pm). Prices start at B390 for borderline unprintably-named drinks like Rum Inside Me, I’m On The Dill—gin, Thai sugarcane rum, green Chartreuse, citrus, dill, cucumber and salt, topped with grapefruit soda.

Vibe: EMB’s peak days may be behind it, but we keep going back for the cocktails.

Where: Lucky Fish What: Highballs (B220), sake (from B120), Asahi on draft (B160) and wine by the glass (B320) are all buy-one-get-one, every day from 10am to 8pm.

Vibe: 72 is a very nightlife-focused compound, so we often forget about this daytime gem. It’s the most amazing place to work from.

9/6/19 7:17 PM

neighborhood | phrom phong

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2019

25

Cocotte

Mensho Tokyo

Holey Artisan Bakery

39 Espresso

Mall Rats Phrom Phong is a hotbed of lavish malls, trendy watering holes, high-end condos and Japanese restaurants. The area stretches well beyond the BTS, though most of these spots are within a 10 minute walk.

By Jesse Day

Sugar Ray

Coffee & Breakfast Wake up with a flat white (B60) at 39 Espresso (665 Sukhumvit Rd.) or a coffee (from B80) at Holey Artisan Bakery (245/12 Sukhumvit Soi 31). Fill up on eggs Benny (B350) at elegant D’ark (651 Sukhumvit Rd., 02003-6013) or go with a healthy spirulina-spinach bowl (B250) at Brekkie (6/9 Phrom Si Soi 1). Breakfast Story (2/F, Hair of the Dog, 593/27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1461) serves some of the city’s best pancakes (from B150).

Lunch & Dinner Phrom Phong is heaven for Japanese food, from tori paitan ramen (B250) at Mensho Tokyo (G/F, RSU Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 31) to lavish 20-course omakase dinners (B4,000) at Sushi Masato (3/22 Soi Sawasdee 1, 02-040-0015).

Masu Maki & Sushi Bar (15 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 081-838-0220) offers wallet-friendly Black Dragon Maki

Hair of the Dog

(B380), Cocotte (G/F, 39 Boulevard, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 092-664-6777) serves tenderloin wagyu steak (B2,790), and Indus (71 Sukhumvit Soi 26,02-258-4900) does great butter chicken (B390).

Drinks Get your craft beer fix at Hair of the Dog (593/27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1461) or sip cocktails at retro speakeasy Mutual Bar (5/F, 3/7 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02550-6820). Jive to live music at Alonetogether (29 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-163-4778) and The WoodShed (24/1, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-0762) or channel your hi-so side at Vanilla Sky Rooftop Bar (35/F, Compass SkyView Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24), ABar (3738/F, Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-059-5555) and Iron Balls Parlour (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478). EmQuartier mall is home to salsa hotspot Flamenco (9/F, EmQuartier, 693, 695 Sukhu-

mvit Rd.) and urban beach bar Escape (5/F, 02-258-6515). Seek out ultra-hip speakeasy Sugar Ray (88/2 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-258-4756) for expertly crafted cocktails like a Manhattan (B420).

Grab a casual pint at The Royal Oak (595/10-11 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1) before heading upstairs to Bangkok Comedy Club (shows every Friday).

Transport BTS Phrom Phong.

Accommodation B55,000/month will land you a two-bedroom, 190-sq-meter apartment at 31 Place Phrom Phong (345/1, Sukhumvit Rd.).

Two-bedroom luxury condos at The Diplomat (18 Sukhumvit Soi 39) run from B95,000 upwards.

Three-bedroom apartments at Richmond Palace (Sukhumvit Soi 43) start at B65,000 per month.

For real ballers: a four-bedroom penthouse at The Millennium

Residence (Sukhumvit Soi 20) costs a cool B300,000 per month.

Visit

Besides the two glossy supermall behemoths—Emporium and EmQuartier—you can take a stroll in Benjasiri Park, test your simulated surfing skills at Flow House (120/1 A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26), learn to become a barista at Coffeas Lab (G/F, Green Connect, Sukhumvit Soi 31; B8,500/oneday course), or unwind at Yunomori Onsen (120/5 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778; day pass, B450).

Get drunk and arty at Paintbar Bangkok (6/F, Piman 49, 46/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081-001-0849), or seek out workshops in the studio above Baker Gonna Bake cafe (61 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 092-6516463). Pet owners can take their furry friends to weekend markets at K Village (93, 95 Sukhumvit Soi 26) or Dog Park 49 (8/3 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-049-1026).

BK ASKS

What’s great about Phrom Phong?

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PHILIPPE RUSIN, COFOUNDER AND GENERAL MANAGER OF D’ARK “It’s such a vibrant neighborhood, and the specialty coffee district of Bangkok. It’s really ideal for brunch with family or friends and your favorite pets.”

PETE SPALDING, COFOUNDER OF HAIR OF THE DOG “It’s super close to the BTS. There are tons of interesting little streets with cool small businesses, tons of good food and of course EmQuartier for shopping.”

TANAKORN CHANTARTHONG, BARISTA AT 39 ESPRESSO “Phrom Phong has a lot of tourists and foreigners, so there’s always something cool happening.There are a lot of great stores and restaurants to find imported items.”

9/6/19 7:19 PM

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9/5/19 11:05 AM