it's free!
Hoppy Ending The beer fests you need to know about On the Mark Bangkok’s top food blogger talks shop Eastside Uncovering the charms of Chanthaburi Glow Up, Man How to stay on top of your grooming game
Call me Dapper Dan NO. 772 OCTOBER 11, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com
MEN’S STYLE BIBLE
Where to go and what to buy to nail every look
New_Cover-BK#772-11OCT2019_2.indd 1
10/4/19 5:14 PM
DISCOVER BANGKOK’S BEST BARS FOR LESS!
FOR FOR 55 WEEKS WEEKS IN IN NOVEMBER NOVEMBER TRY TRY 40 40 TOP TOP NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE VENUES VENUES AT AT 11 AMAZING AMAZING PRICE PRICE
If you’ve been looking for an excuse to check out some of the cool nightlife venues that we write about in BK, mark your calendars for the month of November as we partner with over 40 of Bangkok’s best bars to offer you a set of special cocktails at a very special price!
3 COCKTAILS FOR ONLY B800* With exclusive privileges for Citi credit card members
BOOK NOW Visit bkrestaurantweek.com/badnightout to see the full list of venues #BKBadNightOut #BKBAD2019 PARTICIPATING VENUES #FindThePhotoBooth • Abar (37th Floor) • Abar Rooftop (38th Floor) • Aesop’s Restaurant • Axis & Spin • Bangkok Heightz • Cactus • Cantina Pizzeria & Italian Kitchen • Char Rooftop Bar • Dumbo Jazz & Vinyl Bar • Evil Man Blues • Felicita Rooftop Bar • Funky Lam Kitchen • Glow • Happy Endings Eats & Bar • Hard Rock Cafe • Havana Social • Hi-so • Honest Mistake Bar • Iron Balls Distillery • Iron Balls Gin Parlour • Jacqueline • Junker And Bar • Koi Lounge • Lennon’s • The Loft • Nomad Rooftop Lounge And Bar • Nowhere • Revolucion Cocktail • Safe Room • Saladang Dining Hall • Salon Du Japonisant • Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant • Seen Restaurant & Bar Bangkok • Spectrum Lounge & Bar • Sul • To More • Tropic City • Uncle.Tim • The Woodshed • Yao Rooftop Bar
*All prices are exclusive of a 10% booking fee and 7% VAT
page 3
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
04
Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon
upfront
Managing Editor Craig Sauers Associate Editor Willy Thorn Digital Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writer Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Writers Suthivas Tanphaibul, Reika Kobayashi Nidhiprabha
Food and travel icon Mark Wiens
Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Assaya Dejkong, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn
06
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom
cover
BK's sartorial guide
Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit, Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Jesse Day, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen, Jarupa Kiattipong, Puwanart Laddawan Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon
16 open doors
Baltic Bluno's
Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
Where to find us!
The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
20
23
dining review
neighborhood
Argo
National Stadium
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
get in the loop
bkmagazine.com
22
03
Thai ministers applaud climb in global pollution rankings Bangkok, Thailand—The National Legislative Assembly (NLA) has hailed Bangkok’s ascent to second place in the most recent ranking of the world’s most polluted cities. According to data from AirVisual, an independent air quality monitoring system, the number of particulate matter smaller than 2.5 microns (PM2.5) increased to more than 175 micrograms per cubic meter in early October, putting Bangkok behind only Hanoi, Vietnam, in PM2.5 levels. “Normally, Bangkok doesn’t record such high PM2.5 levels until January, at the earliest. This is a positive sign for future growth,” said Pollution Control Department chairman Suthep Srisuk. “We believe that, if all Thai citizens work to the best of their ability, we can claim the number one spot by 2020,” he said, adding that it would be “quite a coup” for the country. But with the city’s gubernatorial election looming and candidates from the Democrat and Future Forward Parties voicing concerns about the blanket of haze that now semiannually smothers the city, some members of parliament worry that the goal will remain out of reach. “We must stop them from impeding our progress before it’s too late,” said one member, who requested anonymity over the sensitive nature of the issue. “We can’t rule out the military option.” Others remain bullish and have advised patience, however, citing underdeveloped districts like Bang Kachao— where property owners in the so-called “Green-White Zone” can only build on up to 15 percent of their land, max— untapped potential. While decrying the lack of condo and office tower projects on Bang Kachao, Kittisak Sae-lee, an official in the Ministry of Transport, also mentioned the need to decrease the use of public transportation. “If you look at many districts, automobile usage is still quite low, especially diesel-powered vehicles. We would like to urge more people to put off upgrading their phones and instead buy another Mercedes or two,” he said. “In fact, it’s not out of the realm of possibility that we bring back the first-car rebate scheme, or maybe create a second-car rebate scheme. Let’s fill those roads.” The NLA has also considered sweeteners—including tax breaks for multinational construction, and petrochemical and oil and gas firms—to achieve an ambient PM2.5 level of at least 100 year-round. “With key holidays like Loy Krathong on the horizon, we are working closely with regional tourism authorities to encourage all Thais, and even foreigners, to light more joss stocks, burn more paper effigies and set off more sky lanterns than ever before,” added Srisuk.
travel contest, updates, stories
facebook.com/bkmagazine
latest news and trends
Why you need to revisit Chanthaburi
@bkmagazine
see what’s happening
@bkmagazine
TOC-BK#772-11OCT2019..indd 2
10/3/19 8:29 PM
upfront
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
04
HOT OR NOT
POT
Since legalizing medical marijuana last year, Thailand is edging toward total decriminalization. A proposed amendment to the Narcotics Act would allow certain people—including patients, medical professionals and, yes, government officials—to grow up to six plants at home. Some believe it's high time to consider cannabis tourism, which could add up to B21 billion to the economy by 2024.
Bangkok’s hungriest blogger dishes on street food, spice and success INTERVIEW
Spice-loving, Bangkokbased YouTube star Mark Wiens has earned a following in the millions for his food and travel videos, and now he’s just opened his first restaurant, the pad kaprao-focused Phed Mark. He spills the (stink) beans on that project, his love of southern Thai cooking and how teaming up with Gaggan Anand is good for Thai street food.
Did you ever expect to become such a success? When I began [my blog Migrationology], social media wasn’t what it is today, so it was a progression that couldn’t be predicted. To be honest, I’m the same as everybody else—just a normal person who loves to eat and maybe gets a little over-excited. It’s a blessing to do what I do. How do people respond to you in person? In person, so many great people open their lives to you. When you go in with a smile and are excited and can genuinely appreciate them and their work, it makes such a difference. Why do you think regional Thai cuisine is booming? The rise of higher-end Thai restaurants locally has been huge in the promotion of Thai food and its regional diversity abroad. Restaurants like Sorn, 100 Mahaseth and Samrub for Thai all do an outstanding job of promoting distinct regional Thai food to local and foreign audiences. Do you have a favorite?
“In person, so many great people open their lives to you.” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
NEW_Upfront-BK#772-11OCT2019.indd 4
Southern. But I’m a bit biased. My wife is from the south. I always eat gaeng tai pla (fish curry) and gaeng som (sour curry). One of my favorite ingredients in the world is sator (stink beans), especially in dishes like goong pad sator (shrimp fried with stink beans). I eat sator almost every day. What’s Phed Mark all about? The goal is to remain street food but in a permanent location. It was a huge group effort and could never have come together without chef Gigg Kamol, Itan (Kittidech Vimolratana)
and Pangtap Arutan. We’re strictly serving pad kaprao—pork or beef only—with three spice levels: tamada (normal), phed noi (a little spice) and Phed Mark. That’s my level, the spiciest. When we tested the recipe, the fumes were so strong we had to build a ventilation system.
TOURISM With tourism numbers well below forecasts, the authorities are throwing their weight behind domestic travel. First came the “eat, shop, spend” scheme, which handed out B1,000 to 10 million Thai travelers to use in a province other than their own.That was followed by plans to sell 40,000 travel packages for just B100 each.These measures are part of a massive B316 billion stimulus. Time will tell if it pays dividends.
What’s the spiciest thing you’ve eaten? Fresh Carolina Reapers and ghost chilies. Also som tam with 40 chilies in Udon Thani. There were more chilies than papaya, but it was good. How did your collaboration with Gaggan come together? It was really Gaggan. He’s an ideas man, and I wanted to support the cause. He and his team cooked, and I filmed and blogged. All proceeds went to help street vendors. What are some of your favorite places to eat in Bangkok? Soei has been one of my favorites for years. The yum khai dao (fried egg salad) is one of the world’s best. Beer Hima Panya Seafood is one of my favorites for southern Thai food. I also really enjoy Somtum Jay So and the chicken wings on Soi Pipat in Silom. Are the rumors of the demise of Bangkok’s street food overblown? I think it’s as good as ever, and it’s such a huge part of the culture that it will never go away. [The] people selling street food are so determined, innovative and entrepreneurial. I have so much respect for the lifestyle. Megan Leon For a full-length version of this interview please visit BK.Asia-City.co.th
HOTPOT Chinese hotpot chain Haidilao has officially arrived in Central World. Famed for its spicy, Sichuan-style broth, the brand is best known for tempering the crushing boredom of its hours-long queues by offering massages, manicures and games. Not to mention servers perform a tableside, rhythmic gymnastics-like dance with long ribbons of noodles. It’s weird, it’s fun, it stays open until 3am.
DRIVING Looking to assign blame for the premature arrival of hazepocalypse? Consider the car parked in your garage. Location technology company TomTom recently ranked Bangkok in the bottom ten globally for traffic congestion. According to lecturer and Bangkok Post columnist Danny Marks, a quarter of Thailand’s emissions come from the transport sector, which is fueled by—you guessed it—private automobile use.
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
10/4/19 5:18 PM
P.5 BEC.indd 2
10/4/19 3:11 PM
cover | fresh threads
SARTORIALLY SPEAKING When it comes to shopping in Bangkok, who says women get to have all the fun? We select the best menswear stores for every style. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
The Decorum
Best for bespoke tailoring The Decorum
Vvon Sugunnasil
For the guy who: Is as impeccably dressed as the influencers at Florence’s Pitti Uomo.
For the guy who: Dabbles in dandyism.
What: If you’re a devotee of bespoke suits and classic menswear, this store is your go-to. Apart from distributing high-end Italian and Japanese labels—including shirt label Kamakura, Igarashi Trousers, luxury shoemaker Fugashin, and Kenji Kaga and Shibumi Firenze, known for their handmade ties and accessories—The Decorum is also a hub for sartorial events and pop-ups. Think trunk shows from world-class Japanese brands born in Italy, like Sartoria Salabianca and Sarto Domenica. Our favorite pieces: The navy fox silk tie from Drake’s (B5,300), the full canvas-construction MTM jackets from Sartoria Raffaniello (from B39,500) and the tan tassel saga loafers from Baudoin & Lange (B16,000). Tailor on Ten
Ari Samphan Soi 5, 086-533-5255. Open daily noon8pm. thedecorumbkk.com
Pinky Tailor For the guy who: Appreciates fine craftsmanship. What: On the surface, this tailor looks pretty much the same as the countless others between Phloen Chit and Asoke—fading pictures of out-of-date styles, awkwardly posed mannequins and row upon row of fabrics, most of which you’d never pick. But don’t let that fool you. This small shop is a gem, as the shop’s devoted clientele, which includes fashion editors and designers, will attest. Pinky and his son, Win, will tell you what is and isn’t possible, but for best results you should take control of things from the beginning. Our favorite piece: Apart from their elegant bespoke suits (from B12,000-30,000), we love their collections of metal cufflinks (B1,500) and pearl buttons (B2,000 per set).
The Decorum
NEW_CoverStory-BK#772-11OCT2019_2.indd 6
Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-2536328. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm; Sunday by appointment. pinkytailor.com
What: Von’s new shop on leafy Soi Somkid—one of the poshest addresses in Bangkok—offers everything from pure-wool Japanese super 120 to some really beautiful English Dormeuil wools—a full suit will cost you about B40,000. His personal tastes lean towards French tailoring, as he spent a year in Paris prior to opening his boutique. For the man who can never find the right collar, this is also the place to go—there are at least 20 varieties on display. Our favorite pieces: Von also offers bespoke tuxedos, and we’re digging the slim, well-contoured silhouettes. The dusty pink silk satin tuxedo is stunning. The Republic, 14/2 Soi Somkid, 02-001-8744. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; appointments required. IG: vvonsugannasil
Tailor on Ten For the guy who: Plans to buy his first bespoke suit. What: If you want an honest, no-nonsense experience, go here. All the prices are fixed, and everyone who works here, from the owners to the salespeople, are upfront about what they can and can’t do. It’s also one of few Bangkok tailors that does all its production on-site, and they’ll happily take you behind the scenes to show you the work being carried out as well as everything that goes into the jacket—lining, canvas, shoulder pads, chest plate. Prices start at B15,000 for wool blends, while Italian super 110 starts at B21,000. Our favorite pieces: If you’re feeling adventurous, go for the selections of Harris Tweed, which are versatile enough for work or play. 93 Sukhumvit Soi 8, 084-877-1543. Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-7pm. tailoronten.com
10/4/19 5:26 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
07
Pur.Suit
The Decorum
Best for essentials Pur.Suit For the guy who: Wants top-quality clothes, shoes and accessories at pocket-friendly prices. What: Here, you’ll find formalwear like Oxford shirts, suits, tuxes and accessories from local, highend designers. Standout brands include bespoke suit labels Jin Vondervic and Vvon Sugunnasil, ready-to-wear suit jacket lines from Madmister, leather shoes from London Brown and our beloved, formerly-online-only men’s basics specialist W.Ministry, which offers its full line of Oxfords, trousers and tees. The selection of accessories here is impressive, featuring everything from bow ties and leather wallets to pocket squares and lapel pins. Our favorite pieces: The tencel camp collar shirt in seaweed from W.Ministry (B2,350) and the rose lapel pins from Ned Bangkok (B1,790). Classy. M/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. fb.com/pursuitstore
JBB For the guy who: Pulls off the preppy look better than any yachtie.
JBB
NEW_CoverStory-BK#772-11OCT2019_2.indd 7
What: At this tiny boutique below Erawan hotel, you’ll find some of the highest-quality off-the-rack suits. The owner, Bote, will happily make all the adjustments you might need—meaning, he’ll work his magic to make that suit look custom on you. The style here is all about preppy formalwear made with excellent structure, detailed cutting and top-quality Japanese materials. The Oxford button-downs, ties, and accessories are equally worth your attention.
Our favorite pieces: We like how there’s a theme to the clothes here, which got us dreaming about a holiday in the Mediterranean. Match the coral-striped Havana shirt (B3,700) with the pleated chinos in warm grey (B4,600) for the perfect casual summer holiday look, or dress it up a notch by layering it with a beige hopsack sport jacket (B18,900). 2/F, Gaysorn Tower, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-252-8786. Open daily 10:30am-8:30pm. jbbmenswear.com
Another Man Story For the guy who: Updates modern wardrobe staples with a little vintage flair. What: While its sister branch Another Story largely deals in stationery and home decor, Another Man Story showcases a curated selection of menswear, accessories and lifestyle products from both Thai and international brands. Those include bespoke denim expert Selvedgework, vintage-style necktie maker Tuesday Evening and snazzy biker-wear label BumShaker. For international brands, expect to find France’s Izipizi eyewear, American drinkware brand Kinto, UK lifestyle label Gentlemen’s Hardware and more. You can also pick up vinyl records and coffee table books or get a haircut, courtesy of Smile Club. Our favorite pieces: The hand-dyed cotton sport jacket from Blue Nails in natural indigo (B25,000) and the smart and eco-friendly Racket tote in vegetable-tanned leather from The Sleeveless Garden (B5,300). 1/F, The EmQuartier, Helix Bldg., Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6139. Open daily 10am-10pm. fb.com/anothermanstory
»
10/4/19 5:27 PM
cover | fresh threads Bstore
Horse Unit
Bstore
Siwilai
Onion
Best for cult labels Bstore
Onion
Siwilai
For the guy who: Bases his wardrobe on hard-to-find brands.
For the guy who: Rocks New York street style with a hint of Japanese minimalism.
For the guy who: Blows his baht on limited -edition items from top designer labels.
What: The very existence of this store, which offers Euro brands that can’t be found elsewhere, signals that the city’s menswear scene is finally coming up to par with womenswear. Bstore’s hip and minimal space offers an impressive range of cult labels from Europe and Asia, most of which blend modern casual wear with sharp tailoring. If you’re a devotee of Scandinavian brands, head here to get your hands on Our Legacy, CMMN SWDN, Eytys and Sun Buddies. Other highlight brands include Goetze from Germany, Aries from England and Etudes from France, as well as Ambush and Digawel from Japan.
What: When it comes to quality pieces from international cult labels, Onion is it, folks. The store carries brands like Saturdays NYC, Beton x Cire, Studio Nicholson and Reception, many of which boast elements of Japanese fashion, from understated monochrome tones to androgynous loose silhouettes. Be sure to check out Onion’s own line, Clothiers Ekamai, which remains true to its vintage roots with odd preppy touches on clean-cut, button-down shirts sourced from Japanese garment master Shuttle Notes. There’s a great selection of mid-priced imported eyewear, as well as practical bags from NYC’s Bags in Progress.
What: This is niche luxury retail, so don’t expect any bargains. Central Embassy’s stylish concept store is headlined by menswear collaborations between Siwilai and of-the-moment brands like Maison Kitsune, Heron Preston, OAMC and Officine General. Its exclusive product selection is stacked with streetwear heavyweights like Stussy, Golden Goose and Sacai, while the limited-edition collections are to-die-for (take the B8,990 New Balance MiUK Sample Lab Project, for example).
Our favorite pieces: Grab the Kolkata Patch shirt from Bode (B17,990), the Third Cut Jeans in red wine from Our Legacy (B15,990) or the Scratch sneakers from Sunnei (B14,693).
Our favorite pieces: The Canty Decade shirt in sun-faded colors from Saturdays NYC (B5,490) is great for dressing up or down, and the off-white shellcap slip-ons from Pras (B4,890) are timeless.
235/20 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 063-650-0506. Open Tue-Sun noon-8pm. shop-bstore.com
Our favorite pieces: Too many to count. Currently, we have our sights set on Stussy’s block paisley shirt (B6,500) from the Fall 2019 collection. 5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02160-5809 ext 12. Open Mon-Thu 10am-8pm; Fri-Sun 10am-9pm. fb.com/siwilaistore
19/12 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-550-7336. Open Mon-Sat noon-8pm; Sun noon-7pm. onionbkk.com
»
NEW_CoverStory-BK#772-11OCT2019_2.indd 8
10/4/19 5:27 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
P.9 SC Asset.indd 9
09
10/3/19 6:24 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
10
ROUND OUT YOUR LOOK WITH THE FRESHEST MENSWEAR ESSENTIALS Eyesmith
Absolute Siam Store
Best for streetwear Absolute Siam Store For the guy who: Isn’t afraid to be different. What: This snazzy multi-label store is aimed squarely at the young and fashion-conscious. The streetwear-focused selection includes exclusive collaborations between Absolute Siam and hotshot Thai designers like Takara Wong, Everyday Kmkm, Realistic Situation, Maya Wong, SSAP NYC, Painkiller and Dry Clean Only. There’s also a dedicated corner offering a number of quirky, souvenir-ready lifestyle products and accessories, from colorful Thai boxing shorts and OTOP-style woven shopping bags to luggage tags, caps, totes and scarves with Thai iconography. Think tuk tuks, floating market vendors and Thai classical dancers. Our favorite pieces: Go for the colorful pla kad (Siamese fighting fish) Hawaiian shirts from Windwear (B2,450) and the embroidered Kantha kimono from Kitsch.bkk (from B2,850). 1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 ext. 4046. Open daily 10am-10pm. fb.com/absolutesiamstore
Unfound Projects For the guy who: Mixes on-trend international brands with under-the-radar Thai brands. What: If you live and breathe streetwear, then you already know about this multibrand store located at Siam’s Scala Theatre. Not only do they stock iconic international mainstays like Supreme, A Bathing Ape, Stussy and Vans, they also carry cult labels like Grind London, Blue Boyz Sports Club and Pleasures. We love their selection of interesting local brands, like Young & Hungry, Homeward Bound, Madworks Clothing, One Drink
And We Go Home and Fury, to name a few. Our favorite pieces: The green Madclub miki cap from Madworks Clothing (B890), the Sync SS button-down shirt from Grind London (B2,690) and the bootleg Nike x Converse Chuck Taylor hybrid from Chinatown Market. Scala Theatre, Siam Square Soi 1, 088-8987886. Open daily 1-8:30pm. IG: @unfoundprojects
Outcast Store For the guy who: Looks like he belongs in Highsnobiety. What: Back in the day, Outcast may have been just another mainstream streetwear store. Now? It’s transformed into a treasure trove of niche streetwear brands you’ve probably never even heard of. While these guys stock some gape-inducing limited-edition pieces from international brands like The Moving Development, Trasher, Yoji Yamamoto and Ugly Symptoms, the extensive range of Thai brands available here is refreshingly different. With over 25 such brands on offer, Outcast shines a light on local talent. Our favorite pieces: Basically every T-shirt they have. If we have to pick, our top three would be the “3 Parts V.4” oversized tee from 1992 (B990), the “Algorithm Love” tee from VGH (B790) and the black “Lones” tee from Sweeks (B890). Siam Square Soi 7, 094-456-6626. Open Mon-Fri 12:30-9pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-9pm. fb.com/outcaststorebkk
Best for vintage menswear Wooden Submarine For the guy who: Lives and breathes oldschool Americana.
What: The shop specializes in menswear from New York—both new pieces and old stock—with a focus on rare military-themed apparel like shirts, jackets, leather bags, shoes and boots from brands such as London’s Alan McAfee, Ralph Lauren, Champion and Converse. It’s all pocket-friendly, too. Retro graphic T-shirts start from B500, jeans and pants from B1,500, and rugged canvas bags from B1,000. Check out some of the rare pieces, like the 1900s Edwardian tailcoat, deadstock Japanese railway jacket and Andy Warhol x Keith Haring t-shirt from 1986.
Zettino
Our favorite pieces: We’re loving the selection of Gurkha pants and corduroy jackets. If you dig around enough, you’ll find some cool Hawaiian shirts and US navy jeans, too.
Carnival
121/118 Phetchaburi Soi 18, 081-255-2866. Open Tue-Fri 1-8pm; Sat-Sun 1-6pm. fb.com/ woodensubmarine
Horse Unit For the guy who: Matches military pieces with modern high-street brands. What: This is Eden for vintage geeks. The vast collection of US and European military items from the ‘50s and ‘60s runs the gamut from US army jackets, European work jackets and cargo pants to overalls, boots, duffle bags and canvas totes (most items range from B1,000-B5,000). There are tons of other knick-knacks like helmets, badges, pins, keychains, mail stamps and even WWII newspapers, too. If you’re into photography, you’ll be happy to find collections of old Polaroid film and cameras to boot (from B2,000-B10,000). Our favorite pieces: The mustard work jacket and all the military bags and totes. Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung Soi 30, 089454-2250. Open Mon-Tue 11am-8pm; ThuSun 11am-8pm. fb.com/horseunitshop
Best for eyewear EYESMITH High-end eyewear distributor with a killer selection of cult labels. Select brands on display include Mr. Leight (B27,500 for Mulholland) and Masahiro Maruyama (B18,900 for the “Twist” MM-0037 model). 1/F, Lido Connect, Rama 1 Rd., 082-664-9956. Open daily 10am-8:30pm
Best for leather accessories ZETTINO Though the look and feel of everything in this leatherware store might scream Italy, it’s in fact all Thai: passport wallets, cardholders, clutches, messenger bags and belt bags in warm shades of leather and suede. Prices are around B1,990 for a wallet up to B8,500 for a messenger bag.
Mahatun Plaza, Phloen Chit Rd., 098-664-9516. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm
MORE LESSONS IN DRESSING WELL
Best for leather shoes MANGO MOJITO Richly polished Oxfords, double monk straps and tasseled loafers. Everything is locally made and designed with a clear eye for how men’s shoes should be shaped. Prices start at around B4,850. Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-1435. Open daily noon-9pm
Best for sneakers CARNIVAL “I highly recommend The Decorum if you’re into bespoke tailoring and classic menswear. Their curated selection of brands is equally impressive and diverse, giving you a variety of options in terms of style and price points. For high-quality cult labels, Onion is the place, thanks to all the big and small brands on offer, like Rowing Blazers and Engineered Garments.” Nath Suriyachantananont, editor -in-chief of men’s lifestyle powerhouse W.Ministry.
NEW_CoverStory-BK#772-11OCT2019_2.indd 10
“Siwilai makes shopping for niche international brands so much easier. I go here often, as the store is pretty much the only place that stocks cult French and UK labels like Maison Kitsune, Officine Generale and JW Anderson. Another one of my go-tos is Beams. The quality and colors of its clothes are just spot on.” Nanat Suchiva, managing editor of W.Ministry.
“Whether it’s for everyday wear or for travel, I never leave JBB store empty-handed. I like the simplicity of the clothes here, and at the same time I’m always impressed with the quality of the fabrics and the cutting of the suits and jackets.” Narongrit “Oat” Sritalanon, co-founder of lifestyle and travel page Oats x Somewhere.
“B Store is refreshingly different. Vvon Sugunnasil’s suits have this cool modern twist that set them apart from other brands, plus you can choose to get them tailor made from scratch or select from the designs they already have and make adjustments.” Veekrit Palarit, managing director of Norse Republics, importer of Republic of Fritz Hansen, Hay and Gubi
The OG of Bangkok’s sneaker stores, these guys focus exclusively on sneakers from Nike, Adidas and Vans, with the occasional limited-edition sneaks for good measure. Siam Square Soi 7 (next to Hard Rock Cafe). 02-252-4215. Open daily noon-9pm
Best for skincare and fragrances HIS LAB This is the place to get your hands on some of the best grooming products in one spot.
M/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000 ext. 3400. Open daily 10am-10pm
10/4/19 5:28 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
P.11 UOB.indd 11
11
10/4/19 6:00 PM
hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
12
01
Bangkok’s oldest library puts literature in the spotlight this November FESTIVAL
Neilson Hays is celebrating its 150th birthday with a festival that should satisfy bookworms nationwide. On Nov 16-17, 25 award-winning writers from around the world are coming to Bangkok to take part in the first-ever Neilson Hays Bangkok Literature Festival. Expect talks, poetry readings and panel discussions led by the likes of Pulitzer Prize-winning Adam Johnson and Melissa Lucashenko, who recently bagged Australia’s most prestigious prize, the Miles Franklin Award, for her fictional “Too Much Lip.” Over a dozen of Southeast Asia’s best and brightest are on the docket as well. Those include Veeraporn Nitiprapha, the 2018 SEA Write-winner known for her surreal “The Blind Earthworm in the Labyrinth,” and up-and-coming Thai writers and translators like Mui Poopoksakul, the Berlin-based translator of Prabda Yoon’s “The Sad Part Was” and “Moving Parts,” and Pitchaya Sudbanthad, whose debut novel “Bangkok Wakes to Rain” has earned major plaudits from The New York Times and The Guardian. Don’t miss the semi-annual book sale Nov 2-3, either. You can pick up tons of secondhand titles for as little as B20 and in the process help the library cover its operational costs for the year. Call 02-233-1731 or visit neilsonhayslibrary.org for more information.
STAY FRESH
Fight the return of Bangkok’s Great Smog with these air purifiers Philips Air Purifier AC1215 B5,990 Available at lazada.co.th
Mi Air Purifier Pro B8,990 Available at Mi Store, 2/F, Siam Discovery.
Sharp AIOT Air Purifier B20,900 Available at Power Buy branches nationwide.
Honeywell Air Touch i9 B21,900 Available at Power Buy branches nationwide.
Dyson Pure Cool Purifying Tower Fan B28,900 Available at Dyson, 2/F, Siam Paragon.
New_ShoppingNews-BK#772-11OCT2019.indd 12
SHOPPING
ATTRACTION
WATCH
02 Muji goes maximalist
03 Futuristic dinosaurs
04 A James Bond
with its biggest Bangkok store
meet magical flowers at this upcoming exhibition
Japan’s master of minimalism is proving that even modesty has its limits. Located at the recently opened Samyan Mitrtown, the city’s biggest Muji is a doozy: 1,700 sq meters of shopping space that goes beyond the pared-back stationery, kitchenware and clothing you’ve come to expect. The new space also boasts a “coffee corner” and an all-new embroidery service that lets you customize your Muji products. You’ll also find “Open Muji,” a new creative space for workshops and exhibitions. G/F, Samyan Mitrtown, Rama 4 Rd., 02-234-6211. Open daily 10am-10pm
Central Embassy turns five this year, and it’s celebrating with an out-of-this-world exhibition. Running from Oct 16-Nov 17, the Sorayama Space Park by AMKK exhibition showcases collaborative works from Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama— known for his illustrations and sculptures of sexy robots—and AMKK, an experimental botanical group renowned for their striking botanical creations. Expect some wild life-size installations in what will possibly be the coolest thing Central Embassy has ever done. G/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777. Open daily 10am-10pm
Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.
BUY IT ATHIT “SUNGLOW” LONG LASTING GLOW DAILY BODY TREATMENT Finally, a local skincare brand that lets you embrace your natural tanned skin. B1,050; available at athitculture.com
BIN IT ADIDAS YEEZY BOOST 350 V2 GLOW Warning: you can’t unsee these viscerally upsetting alien-colored kicks.
wristwatch for jetsetters What: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “James Bond” Limited Edition Price: B226,000 Why? To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 1969 James Bond film “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service,” Omega’s latest release boasts a stainless steel case, a gun barrel dial and 18K yellow gold. Look for subtle tributes, like the 12 o’clock marker inspired by the Bond family coat-of-arms and the secret number 50 that’s only revealed in the dark. Limited to 7,007 pieces. G/F, Omega Boutique, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5959. Open daily 10am-8pm
BARGAIN DANIEL WELLINGTON SALE Get up to 50 percent off all Daniel Wellington watches through Oct 15. Available at DW Store, 2/F, CentralWorld.
10/4/19 5:30 PM
hit list | calendar
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
13
NIGHTLIFE
05
Karma Klique to host a 10-hour warehouse party in Bangkok
KINKY DISCO Enter the world of disco, house and funky dubstep with DJ KC. Oct 12, 9pm. Cactus, 15 Yen Akat Rd., 083-437-3515. Free TOPROCK PRESENTS: “TO THE BEAT Y’ALL” An old-school hip-hop night led by local and Japanese DJs. Oct 19, 9pm. Studio Lam, 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51. 02-261-6661. B200
JAZZANOVA Alex Barck of Berlin’s renowned jazz-dance collective will bring his soulful pop and witty dance music to Phloen Chit’s rooftop lounge. Oct 25, 9pm. Siwilai City Club, 5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5631. B500 via Ticketmelon
NIGHTLIFE
Karma Klique—the group behind Karma Kruise and Karma Kastle music festival—will host a 10-hour warehouse party this Oct 26. Karma Koncrete will transform About Studio’s two-floor space with visuals and art installations, as well as an eclectic line-up of international artists, from C.P.I., a Spanish duo with a love for ‘80s Brit-electronica, early acid house and Belgian new beat, to experimental French-born, Hong Kong-based DJ, Rifain. A massive outdoor marketplace will keep you filled up on food and craft cocktails. About Studio, 35/20 Pradit Manutham Rd. From B1,300 via Ticketmelon.
UNITED ANNIVERSARY MASQUERADE EDITION Celebrate one year of Mustache’s DJ/party collective at this masquerade shindig. Oct 26, 9pm. Mustache, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081844-7080. Free
LIVE MUSIC
06 Backstreet’s back, alright The chart-topping ‘90s American boy band, Backstreet Boys, will return to Bangkok this Oct 24 as part of their DNA World Tour. The Orlando-hailing five-piece last wooed Thailand back in 2015 with hits like “I Want It That Way” and “As Long As You Love Me.” They may have peaked two decades ago, but time has done nothing to quell our urge to start belting out “Backstreet’s Back” at the news. This concert’s sure to be “Larger Than Life.” Ok, we’ll stop now. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani. B3,000 via Livenation
CHANNEL ONE SOUND SYSTEM Party with one of the UK’s best loved reggae sound systems. Oct 12, 4pm. Gypsy Flamingo Lake Market, Khlong Sam Prawet. B500
SCREENING
07 Question what’s on your plate at
this eye-opening screening
On Oct 16 and 19 (7pm), Greenpeace Thailand will descend on Lido Connect with screenings of the hard-hitting documentary, “Eating Animals” (2018), based on the book by Jonathan Xavier Föhr. Presenter Natalie Portman explores the impact of massive industrial farming and the global demand for cheap meat, eggs and dairy on our health, the environment and the economy. The screenings will be followed by panel discussions with health professors, farmers and Greenpeace representatives. Lido Connect, Rama I Rd. Free
SPOTIFY ON STAGE The second edition of this live music event gathers pop-friendly names led by One Republic. Oct 16, 7:30pm. BITEC Bangna, 02361-1916. B1,400 via spotifyonstage.com
ME AFTER ME - LILY LOCKWOOD A colorful portrait exhibition with a live portrait session on Oct 19-20. Oct 15-24. Glowfish Sathorn, 92/4, 2/F, Sathorn Thani 2 Building, North Sathorn Rd., 02-1099600. Free
HOME - E-SAN DIAMOND Eight artists from Isaan join in an exhibition that explores their joint sense of belonging. Through Nov 3, 11am. Subhashok The Arts Centre (S.A.C.), Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02662-0299. Free
ROOFTOP SUNSET YOGA Unwind after a hard week with this relaxing yoga sesh, with views to boot. Oct 18, Nov 1. The Hive, 46/9 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-6062. B200-300 via Eventbrite.
A WAY Learn self-awareness through expressive art, positive psychology and Ikigai’s concept (a reason for being). Oct 12 and 26. Muchimore Balance House, 2 Premier Soi 1. B2,500/person.
LIFE DRAWING A life drawing workshop with a live model and guidance from experienced instructors. Oct 13, 23 and 30, 10am. Attic Studios, 45/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 093-950-0046. B1,400.
SOIL WITHOUT LAND A documentary by Nontawat Numbenchapol exploring the lives of the Tai-Shan people trapped in a prolonged ethic war in the borderlands between Myanmar and northern Thailand (subtitled in English). Oct 5 and 20, 6pm. Husband and Wife Art Farm, Muang Thong Thani, 02-0116126. B100
SEAFIC OPEN HOUSE: WOMEN OF THE WEEPING RIVER This Filipino film follows the story of two women in a remote Muslim community confronting an escalating blood feud; it will be followed by a special talk with the director, Sheron Dayoc. Oct 27, 2pm. Alliance Française, 179 Wireless Rd., 02-670-4200. Free
MARKETS
MEN I TRUST Catch this up-and-coming Canadian dream pop band in Bangkok. Oct 18, 8pm. Live Arena, RCA, Rama IX Rd. B1,590 via Ticketmelon
SELF IMPROVEMENT
Calendar-BK#772-11OCT2019.indd 13
ART
SCREENINGS
CONCERT
Learn some new skills with these unique workshops
JAM FEST 2 An eclectic music festival dominated by Thai artists like Polycat and T-Bone. Oct 26, 12pm. Voice Space, Viphavadi Rangsit Rd., 02-650-6000. B1,000 via BoringTicket
ADOY Expect electronic synth-pop/ rock sounds from these Korean chart-toppers. Oct 25, 7pm. Lido Connect, Rama I Rd., 062-929-8685. B1,200 via Ticketmelon
URBAN FARM & FEAST MARKET Shop for fresh organic produce and take part in urban farming workshops and panel discussions. Oct 26, 1pm. Rooftop, The Hive, 46/9 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-6626062. Free
10/3/19 8:38 PM
food & drink | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
14
HOT OF THE PASS
08
Discover Bangkok’s best bars at one knockout price
LOCK IN Gin lovers can stick to the ground-floor bar at Find the Locker Room, where they’re serving concoctions like Wood, (The Botanist gin, Thai oak, sweet bambooand dry vermouth; B480). Upstairs you’ll find a refreshed past-present-future menu. We love Happy Endings—Mount Gay rum, pomegranate and blueberry wine jam, frangelico, creme brulee syrup, Greek yogurt, Cointreau and black pepper (B430).
FEELING BAD
Throughout November, we’re partnering with over 40 of Bangkok’s best bars, speakeasies and cocktail lounges to bring you BAD Night Out—BK Magazine’s first-ever cocktail event. Across five weeks, awesome bars like Tropic City, Salon Du Japonisant and The Loft will be serving specially curated cocktail menus, offering three drinks for a knockout price of B800++. Each week (Wed-Sat), the selection of bars will change, allowing you to try out some of the cool venues we write about in BK. The event coincides with our annual nightlife showdown: the BAD Awards. Book your tickets and check out the full list of bars at bkrestaurantweek. com/badnightout. Bookings must be made at least 24-hours in advance.
BETHLEHEM, BETHLEHEM Former Top Chef Thailand contestant Steve Doucakis (formerly of Bunker; currently of Piseth pop-up) is gearing up to open Little Donkey this November. Located at 72 Courtyard, the modern izakaya will serve fun and affordable international Asian fusion food, like shrimp and grits with nam prik pao, and parkerhouse rolls with coconut clotted cream and whipped lard spreads.
BARGE IN
IN TRANSPORT
BLACK MAGIC
09 Front-row seats for the Royal Barge Procession
10 Karmakamet moves to Sukhumvit next month
The riverside is already gearing up for Oct 24’s Royal Barge Procession, with Praya Dining releasing a special lunch set to accompany the event. Priced at B1,200 per head, the traditional Thai feast will encompass three starters, including la tiang (pork, shrimp and peanuts wrapped in egg mesh); salad and soup and four mains, including pla neua (grilled beef with betel leaves and herbs) and moo pad som siew (stir-fried pork with yellow chili paste). The lunch finishes with inthanil sago balls—with young coconut meat in coconut milk—for dessert. Praya Palazzo Boutique Hotel, 757/1 Somdej Prakinklao Soi 2, 02-883-2998
Following a brief stint at Lhong 1919, Karmakamet Conveyance is relocating to a new, more central location on Sukhumvit Soi 49 this November. With its limitless, boundary-defying ethos, the concept here can be a little disconcerting, but entrust your evening to chef Jutamas “Som” Theantae and you’ll be taken on an eye-opening journey through chef Som’s extensive travels. The 12-course menu (B2,500), reinterprets age-old cooking techniques like updated hoy tod (fried oyster) omelets, soothing Chinese herb broths and Indian lamb. Champagne pairing (B2,500) is also available.
11 Sra Bua to collaborate with Chiang Mai’s Blackitch Artisan Kitchen On Nov 30, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin will continue its visiting chef series with Thai Gastronomy Series III. This time, chef Phanuphon “Black” Bulsuwan of Chiang Mai’s Blackitch Artisan Kitchen—which many have earmarked for Michelin status—is joining forces with Sra Bua’s Chayawee “Berm” Sutcharitchan and Henrik Yde-Andersen, founder of Copenhagen’s Kiin Kiin. The three will whip up a six-course dinner (B4,200/person; B5,800 with wine pairing), with each dish spotlighting ingredients from different regions of Thailand. Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000
URBAN FARM Run by chef Tam Chudaree Debhakam of Top Chef Thailand (Season 1), Ramkhamheang’s upcoming Baan Tepa will be part urban farm, part restaurant, and wholly dedicated to its zero-waste goals—think locally-sourced organic ingredients and a whole load of preservation techniques like pickling, curing and fermenting.
YOU SAID WHAT?
Migrationology fans react to Gaggan and Mark Wiens’ Bangkok street food takeover
NEW_F&BNews-BK#772-11OCT2019.indd 14
“What a cool concept of food, fun, and giving back.” PACIFICOCEAN173
“That vendor’s daughter was really pretty and cute. A very lucky mom to have a helpful daughter like her. She reminds me of Lisa from Blackpink!”
“It’s so great what you did. You are giving back to the community. I’m so glad you were able to help this deserving auntie.” MICHELE AUBREY
CLOUD STRIFE
10/4/19 5:34 PM
travel | news
VIENTIANE
Jitti Chompee
12
15
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
13 Paris chic meets
Mekong calm at this wine-themed boutique
This festival puts a surreal twist on modern art
09
Located along the Mekong River, La Seine (www.laseinehotels.com) is a wine lover’s dream. Wine barrels frame the entrance, a wine showroom occupies half the ground floor, wine paintings frame the bar, wine crates are repurposed for wood paneling and the rooms are even decorated in three winethemed shades—soft orange, chardonnay green and burgundy red. The hotel boasts 38 units in all; ranging from superior singles (B4,000) to glamorous suites (B6,500). The rooms are exquisite—even borderline palatial—with Art Nouveau touches and Art Deco-style furniture. A glass of wine, naturally, is offered upon arrival.
11
JAPAN
FLIGHT
14 Join the scrum at
15 Apres ski just got
Tough guys of the world unite. Now through Nov 2, the world’s top 20 national teams collide across 12 locations in Japan for the 2019 Rugby World Cup crown. It’s the first time the World Cup will be held in Asia, and Japanese officials expect in excess of 400,000 fans. Asia-Pacific teams to root for include Japan, New Zealand, Australia, Samoa and Fiji. Tickets start at just 2,000 yen (B565) for adults, and 1,000 yen for children for preliminary matches, but they skyrocket to 70,000-100,000 yen (B20,000-28,400) for seats at the final. www.rugbyworldcup.com
Thailand’s low-cost airline NokScoot has added a new route, flying from Bangkok to Hokkaido four times per week. That means you can spend more cash overhauling your winter wardrobe or stocking up on Nikka whisky and Japanese dairy products. The new route launches Oct 27 and flies with Boeing 777-200s that can accommodate 415 passengers—24 Premium ScootPlus seats, and 391 Economy Class passes. Book Oct 28-30 (www. nokscoot.com) for special promotional pricing of just B2,999 for all-inclusive flights anytime between Oct 27-Dec 20.
the Rugby World Cup in Japan
CHIANG MAI
One of Chiang Mai’s biggest modern arts events returns at MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum. Now in its third edition, the Unfolding Kafka Festival 2019 runs Oct 26-Nov 24. The program features performing arts, visual art exhibitions and international artistic exchanges. This year’s lineup includes films, large-scale sculptures, VR, dance, sketches, photography and more from the Czech Republic, France, Germany, Ireland, Japan and, of course, Thailand. www.unfoldingkafkafestival.com
easier thanks to NokScoot
OUR HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE SHINES A SPOTLIGHT ON THE BEST NEW PRODUCTS OF 2019. MEN’S & WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES, HEALTH AND BEAUTY, GADGETS AND TECH, AND SO MUCH MORE!
SPECIAL EARLY BIRD PROMOTION! BOOK AN AD BEFORE OCT. 31 AND GET 30% OFF!
BK_halfpage.indd 3
NEW_TravelNews-BK#772-11OCT2019.indd 15
SEE MORE FOR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CALL 02-624-9696 OR EMAIL ADVERTISING@ASIA-CITY.CO.TH
10/4/19 2:35 PM
10/4/19 5:36 PM
food & drink | open doors
16 Baltic Blunos journeys through far-flung Latvia The buzz: British celeb chef Martin Blunos now has a permanent outpost in Thonglor. Along with Latvian chef Aleksandrs Nasikailov, Blunos guides you through a fantastical Latvian menu, transporting you to far-off forests with his theatrical presentation and wild, if not unforgettable, stories. The vibe: Though the food is fine dining, the atmosphere is fun, friendly and approachable. The two comically polar opposite chefs—Blunos chatty and eccentric, Aleks quiet and measured— alternate introducing dishes. Natural woods, golden lighting and brown leather combine for a back-to-nature feel. Blunos’ personal collection of artwork lines the walls; from paintings of Latvia by his uncle Harijs to playful photos of the chef himself. The food: As Blunos will attest, Latvia doesn’t have a strong culinary identity—the focus is on the techniques (fermentation, pickling), ingredients (Mottra caviar, pickled mackerel, birch sap syrup smuggled from Latvia) and evocative presentation (bespoke pottery, dry ice, edible trees). The daily-changing “Baltic Crossover” menus (B2,900 six courses/ B3,400 eight courses) feature
NEW_New+Noted-BK#772-11OCT2019_01.indd 16
creative flavor combinations, like creamed sea urchin with white chocolate, pickled samphire and bergamot bubbles, as well as locally-inspired creations—think avocado and crab miang kham encased in an ice pearl. The drinks: Like wine? Visit soon to take advantage of the opening promotion: every bottle is marked up just B500 from cost price. Go for the 2013 Amarone La Marega della Valpolicella Classico DOCG Le Salette (B2,790). Wine pairing is also available from B1,800. Don’t drink? Try the house-fermented kombu pairing instead (B1,000). Why we’d come back: On top of it being a fun escape from reality, you’ll rarely get the same thing twice. The menu changes according to the availability of produce and the whims of the chef, and if you’ve visited before, they’ll create something new for you. Angela Symons
129 Soi Sukhumvit 55, Klongton-nua, Watthana, Bangkok 10110. 02 117 1255
Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 15% discount on food only for Citi ULTIMA, Prestige, Premier, Mercedes, ROP, Rewards and Cash Back 6 Aug ’19 – 31 Jul ‘20
10/4/19 5:38 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
17
Unbirthday Cafe
NEW AND NOTED
17 This Thonglor bar is all about the vinyl Remember where the original Sugar Ray used to be? It’s now a comfortable hangout spot, where funky grooves, hip hop, soul, funk and R&B records rule. Run by DJTob, Thai hip hop star Twopee, and Bangkok jam master DJ Aopsher, Strange Fruit is home to some serious vinyl collections. And guest DJs keep bringing more. Check Facebook and Instagram for an up-to-date list of which DJ is coming in to spin records next. 77 Thonglor Soi 20, Sukhumvit Rd., 094-556-5041.
18 The Commons gets the cocktail bar it sorely needed
19 Treat every day like it’s your birthday at this cafe
From the people who brought us Q&A, Thaipioka and Sugar Ray You’ve Just Been Poisoned (of course) comes Sugarray Apartment. This cozy cocktail joint feels like a sanctuary in the community mall scrum. It's a condo-like nook—all clean lines and light wood furnishings—where DJs spin soul and R&B records and the drinks riff on classics. Try the prebatch Urgent Negroni (B350), which hits hard and mellows out as the ice melts, or the dry Overnight Martini (B350), served fresh from the freezer. The Commons, 337 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-006-6089.
Unbirthday Cafe goes hard on the Alice in Wonderland whimsy with its birthday theme. The sunroom dining area makes for a fanciful setting to sink your teeth into some cake courtesy of Dandelion Bake Studio, be it red velvet (B155), pistachio mascarpone cream (B185), royal milk tea panna cotta (B150), or even lemon sherbet, which comes in a lemon shell with torched meringue (B175). Refresh your palate with yuzu orange tea (B120) and soak up the natural sunlight by the pool outside before going back in for another slice. 2C Apartment Mapengseng, 14 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 085-145-3181
TABLE TALK
Izakaya Teppen G/F, The Taste Thonglor, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-1852635. Open 6pm-midnight. BTS Thonglor This place does a great job of making you feel like you're stepping into a real izakaya in Japan thanks to its wood tables, round Japanese tatami cushions, and floor-to-ceiling windows with paper lanterns hanging outside. The menu boasts all the sushi and sashimi classics, along with the more adventurous stuff like kanimiso (grilled crab fat) topped with sea urchin, salmon roe, truffle, and scallops.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 1,800 or more / sales slip 01 Sep ’19 – 29 Feb ’20
NEW_New+Noted-BK#772-11OCT2019_01.indd 17
10/4/19 5:38 PM
OOObkk
Marigold
NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK
Spectrum Lounge & Bar 29-31/F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13. BTS Nana Spread across three levels with nearly 300 sq-meters of space, Spectrum’s combo outdoor-indoor layout makes for an inviting-yet-dramatic setting. The indoor living room comes with dazzling gold fretwork and black marble, while the exterior boasts layered dark wood decks and cushioned chairs. The food is both fancy and approachable, with choices like wagyu beef sliders and Black angus tenderloin from charcoal grill.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 15% discount on food only for Citi ULTIMA or get 10% discount on food only for other Citi credit card members 01 Jul ’19 – 30 Jun ’20
NEW_New+Noted-BK#772-11OCT2019_01.indd 18
20 Killer coffee comes to Lat Phrao’s suburbs Good news for Lat Phrao residents: from the same team that brought One Ounce for Onion and Espressoman to Bangkok comes a new cafe for serious coffee drinkers. OOObkk (Town in Town, 291 Lat Phrao Soi 94, 098-812-4649) offsets stylish, raw concrete decor with vintage wooden furniture for a Brooklyn loft look. Filter, syphon, drip: coffee is available almost any way you want it. Try the Dirty Coffee (B100), made with a shot of espresso poured over cold milk, or the Coffee Granita & Lemon with Meringue (B135), a blend of shaved ice black coffee, honey and lemon, all topped with burnt meringue.
21 Get a taste of Samui on Soi 26 After opening in Ari in early 2018, southern Thai restaurant Marigold has launched a new branch in Phrom Phong (51 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-005-0226). Courtesy of recipes from its southern owners, the extensive menu hits the mark with its line-up of Samui favorites, from deep-fried lepkhrut leaves and prawn (B180) to southern staples like crab curry with betel leaves and rice noodles (B280) and pomelo salad with prawns and shredded coconut (B200). Finish your meal with a cocktail at the adjoining Serial Laughter bar (from B280). Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip 15 Jun – 15 Dec ‘19
22 One of Bangkok’s tastiest Thai spots arrives in Chinatown Supanniga Eating Room’s new C h a ro e n k r u n g b ra n c h ( 1 0 -1 2 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-0069744) resides in a King Rama VII-era shophouse that sees contemporary floral patterns meet monochrome tiles and traditional Thai crafts. On top of unabashedly traditional Khon Kaen-meets-Trat signatures, you’ll also find 10 branch-exclusives from the recipe books of the owners’ grandmother. Order the salak and shrimp chili dip with deep fried Nue Aon fish (B340), the coconut curry with lotus stems and mackerel (B240) and the stir-fried crab roe with Himalayan salt and chili mix (B590).
10/4/19 5:39 PM
food & drink | taste test
Which bottled drinking water tastes the best? Whose idea was this?! In by far the trickiest taste test we've ever embarked on, we attempt to describe a neutral substance that looks identical in every glass—all in the name of finding out whether those Fiji water purists are faking it. By BK Staff
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
Aura
The brand: By fruit juice king Winner! Tipco. Origin: The natural cold spring at Mae Rim Waterfall, Chiang Mai. The taste: A light mineral aftertaste, iron-y but sweet. Refreshing and easy to drink. Verdict: Smooth aura. Price per liter: B22 (B11 for 500ml).
Fiji
The brand: This tropical Runner -themed bottle is actually Up! brought to you by the same group as Singha (Boonrawd). Origin: Yaqara—an artesian aquifer in Viti Levu, Fiji. The taste: Rich in minerals, fresh, clean, slightly flowery. Verdict: Touche. Price per liter: B80 (B40 for 500ml).
Mont Fleur
The brand: Thai consumer giRunner ant Saha Group's water won Up! Belgium's iTQi Superior Taste Awards in 2018 and 2019. Origin: Natural mountain springs in Tak. The taste: Slightly mineral, neutral and clean, with just a little sodium. Verdict: Superior sips. Price per liter: B24 (B12 for 500ml).
Sprinkle
The brand: The local water brand you probably have delivered to your condo. The bottle’s crystal-shaped design won a distinguished Red Dot Design Award in 2014. Origin: Treated and disinfected Thai tap water. The taste: Plain soft water with no minerals. Verdict: At least it’s got the looks. Price per liter: B13 (B7 for 550ml).
NEW_New+Noted-BK#772-11OCT2019_01.indd 19
19
Chang
The brand: This water from the infamous beer brand won a Monde Selection Gold Award in 2018. Origin: Groundwater from aquifers in Ayutthaya. The taste: Some said refreshing, smooth and easy to drink, while the rest said it tasted like mineral dirt. Hmm. Verdict: We'll stick with beer. Price per liter: B22 (B10 for 460ml).
Acqua Panna
The brand: A staple in fancy restaurants. San Pellegrino bottles it, and Global Food Products imports it. Origin: Natural springs from the hills of Tuscany. The taste: A clear distinct flavor unlike any other water—with an instant initial metallic taste, that then blends smoothly to an earthy flavor. Verdict: Down to earth. Price per liter: B78 (B39 for 500ml).
Evian
The brand: Owned by French multinational corporation, Danone. Origin: Evian-les-Bains in the French Alps. The taste: Coppery, rusty, almost chemical. Verdict: Sacre bleu! Price per liter: B84 (B42 for 500ml).
Singha
The brand: Do you really need Yuck! us to tell you? Origin: Underground water, distilled in Thailand. The taste: Thick and strangely sugary sweet. Verdict: Sugar water. Price per liter: B12 (B7 for 600ml).
10/4/19 5:39 PM
dining reviews
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
20
Argo HHH 4/26 Sukhumvit Soi 8, 02-120-4223.Open TueSun 5pm-midnight. BB
Venturing down the back alleys of Nana is typically a regrettable decision, but this is one time we recommend doing just that. Head down the second side soi off Sukhumvit 8, braving a gauntlet that includes a tailor, a hostel and a neon-drenched massage parlor called Lolita’s, and you’ll be rewarded with probably the last thing you’d expect to find here: a restaurant serving top-quality Georgian cuisine. Using spices sourced from the markets of Tbilisi, Argo deals in the East-meets-West flavors of the Caucasian nation—and we’re not using that descriptor superficially. Georgia sits along the ancient trade route between the Middle East, Central Asia and Europe and has plucked some of the best elements from those culinary worlds. Take the khinkali (B70/ piece), for example, the heftier, meatier cousin of Chinese soup dumplings; nip a hole in the bottom, slurp some soup and finish with a bite of the aromatic, blue fenugreek- and caraway-laced beef ball inside it. The excellent Argo Lula Lamb Kebab (B230), meanwhile, doesn’t radically change the way you’ll view meat cooked on a skewer, but the bright, tangy salsa it’s served with gives the dish a dimension that distinguishes it from your standard Mediterranean fare. Speaking of that region, if this all sounds Greek to you, note that Argo was opened
Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000
by Anna Avramidou, the owner of Avra, the reliably delicious Greek joint in Phrom Phong. While the two cuisines do overlap, you’ll also find purely Hellenic dishes on the menu, like the dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves with tzatziki; B220). The last time we visited, however, these came out soggy and limp and were unexpectedly small, even if the flavors were on point. While they might not blow you away, the khachapuri (B250) will. Tear off a piece of the crust from this canoe-shaped leavened bread, dip it in the mixture of homemade, organic Sulguni cheese and egg yolk resting in the middle of it, and be reminded of why the bread-and-salty cheese combination almost always works. For a larger portion, order the tsitsila (B580), 800 grams of perfectly cooked Cornish hen topped with chopped cilantro and red pepper-and-garlic-based Ajica sauce, and wash it down with a Greek Nissos pilsner (B230) or a Georgian red wine (from B270/ glass, B1,200/bottle). While it’s hard to imagine yourself transported to a brick-walled guesthouse overlooking the vineyards in the Caucasus, the carpet-lined booths, faux grapevines and folk music at least help you pretend. Argo is ultimately a solid addition to Bangkok’s ever-expanding map of global cuisines.
Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless
B BB BBB BBBB
Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
H F E G
INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume. Specify which department you are applying for.
Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.
Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th
NEW_DiningReview-BK#772-10OCT2019.indd 20
10/4/19 5:41 PM
drink | prost
21
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
Beer season opens in Bankok Oktoberfest has technically come and gone, but we don’t need old Bavarian traditions to give us a reason to down a few cold ones. There are a bunch of beer festivals and deals going down from now through November. These are the ones that are really worth your attention. By BK Staff Bei Otto
When: Through Nov 2; 5-11pm Where: 1 Sukhumvit Soi 20; BTS Phrom Phong Why: One of our favorite German restaurants, Bei Otto is as Bavarian as it gets, from the cuisine to the beer hall vibe and mechanically efficient service. That authenticity bleeds into the restaurant’s long-running Oktoberfest party. Expect big tents and long tables, Thai waitresses in Bavarian outfits, live oom-pah music, barrel hats, sausage eating contests and more. If you’re still thirsty, check out Bei Otto’s spinoff in Ekamai, Alexander’s German Eatery (37/3 Ekkamai Soi 12).
22 Steps Craft House
When: Through Nov 21 Where: Hotel Indigo; Wireless Road. BTS Phloen Chit Why: This dangerous, two-month-long event includes a beer buffet from 5-7pm every night. That means beers from around the world for just B399—there’s a solid list of 25 beers on the menu, including Ballast Point and Maisel’s Weisse on draft, so expect more than just Singha or Chang. Bonus: buy-one-get-one snacks, too.
Siam Best Brews Rooftop Carnival
When: Oct 18-19; 5-11pm Where: amBar rooftop bar; Four Points by Sheraton. BTS Asok or Nana Why: This two-day beer bash is less a German festival and more like a Thai temple fair (seriously), so leave the lederhosen at home and come prepared for games like darts, Wheel of Fortune and ring toss. For refreshments, you’ve got Thai food and beer from the likes of Full Moon and BrewDog, and live music starts both nights at 7pm.
For Takeaway
The German-Thai Chamber of Commerce
When: Oct 25-26; 6:30pm-1am Where: Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park (Sukhumvit Soi 22). BTS Phrom Phong Why: Because they’re the experts and probably the only ones who have internalized German traditions. The celebration claims to be Thailand’s “one and only authentic German experience,” promising a feast, festive music, men and women in traditional attire and genuine Paulaner Oktoberfest beer. B2,500 (non-members) gets you a full buffet, plus a beer and souvenir mug.
Thailand Beer Festival
When: Nov 1-3; 5-11:30pm Where: Show DC; Rama 9 Road. MRT Phetchaburi Why: Thailand’s largest craft beer festival. More than 300 brands will be doling out beers, and tons of brewers are expected to attend. It’s an excellent way to learn about beer—you can even join beer shotgunning contests if you’re so inclined—and there are concerts every night, headlined by Joey Boy.
Thailand Brew Fest 4
When: Nov 8-9 Where: The Link Makkasan Why: Now in its fourth edition, this once small-scale festival has outgrown its humble former digs. This year expect more than 250 beers and ciders, plus 15 food stands and live music from the likes of Polycat. Door prices start at B599.
DUKE OF BEERINGTON Opened in late 2018, this neighborhood bottle shop beside Toby’s carries more than 100 different beers in four fridge-sized coolers. Get beers for the (proverbial) road or to drink with the food you order from Toby’s. Even better, just pick up the phone to get the goods delivered to you. 75 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 092-887-7141. fb.com com/beeringtonbkk
New_DrinkFeat-BK#772-11OCT2019_02.indd 21
HAIR OF THE DOG This no-holds-barred, asylum-themed craft beer joint in Phrom Phong has been pouring badass beers from the taps for over four years, but it also has a 200-strong selection of cans and bottles for takeaway from the likes of Lervig, Behemoth and Alefarm. That means you can have a beer or three while you make your picks.
TASTING ROOM BY MIKKELLER Located in a renovated shed behind the bar, Mikkeller’s well-maintained bottle room stocks hundreds of varieties, including special releases from high-ranking—and hard-tofind—breweries like Grimm Ales and Cloudwater (while supplies last). You can also order online and get express delivery in three hours or less.
WELLS SHOP This Old Town bottle shop was the precursor to Tai Soon Bar, one of the coolest nightlife spots to open on Mahachai Road since, well, ever. From Thai brands like Eleventh Fort, Wizard and Triple Pearl to big-name foreign labels like Evil Twin, 8 Wired and Behemoth, this place has it all, and it takes good care of its supplies, too.
593/27 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-2581461, hairofthedogbkk.com
26 Ekamai Soi 10, Yaek 2, 02-3819891, tastingroombkk.com
106-108 Soi Samran Rat, 092-6476275
10/4/19 5:42 PM
travel | chantaburi
22
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
Thailand’s eastern gem
Where to Stay
BAAN LUANG RAJAMAITRI HISTORIC INN Chanthaburi’s Old Town has garnered applause for reviving the Chanthaboon riverside community. In 2009, the Arsom Silp Institute of the Arts began working with locals to preserve and renovate old buildings—including this twostory, 150-year-old wooden house, belonging to the third generation of the Luang Rajamaitri family. It is now the most checked-in spot in town, and the beautifully preserved boutique hotel offers rooms imbued with Chanthaburi heritage. The space, filled with antiques and artefacts, acts like a living museum. Grab a room with a balcony overhanging the river for B1,890/ night. The decor is a traditional yet elegant mix of dark wood, white curtain-framed beds and framed historic photographs. 252 Sukhaphibaln Rd., 088-8434516, 081-915-8815. www.baanluangrajamaitri.com
Just hours from Bangkok, Chanthaburi is home to a charming riverside Old Town, with a deep history of rubies and sapphires and a cathedral to rival Notre Dame. By Angela Symons Cultures Collide
Old Town
Located just a four-hour drive east of Bangkok, Chanthaboon Old Town is a melting pot of Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and French culture that sprawls alongside the Chanthaburi River. Once a global epicenter for precious stones, the area now feels frozen in a bygone era—even if the rows of timeworn, wooden-shuttered shophouses have been infiltrated by a growing number of hip coffee shops and boutiques.
The Chanthaburi River Community Cultural Center offers even more insight into the region’s 300 years of local history, punctuated by old photographs and traditional clothing. It’s also a great chance to get inside one of the old shophouses (69 Sukhaphiban Rd., 081-945-5761. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-4pm).
Hidden Gems Historically, Chanthaburi was famous for its rubies and sapphires. Though the province’s mines are largely no longer operational, the community still revolves heavily around gem cutting, trading and jewelry making. For insight, head to Bo Ploy Lek Petch Community Center, a century-old gemstone mine located 20 minutes west of the Old Town. Here, you can watch demonstrations of traditional mining methods, and even try it yourself—prepare to get wet (outfits provided). Soil is collected from flooded pits as deep as four meters, then brought to the surface in buckets to be shaken and sifted. If you’re lucky, the site’s gemstone-rich land will yield results. Bonus: the center is also home to a small fruit garden. That means you can watch the staff harvest a juicy buffet of whatever’s in season, like longan, rambutan, mangosteen or creamy durian (11 Siphaya, Tha Mai District, 087-822-9138. Open daily 10:30am-4:30pm. B350).
NEW_TravelFeature-BK#772-11OCT2019.indd 22
Grab some fong tao hu grob (crispy fried tofu) at 100-year-old Chinese shrine-slash-jay canteen Tiang Seng Teng (129 Sukhaphiban Rd., 039-351775) before taking a break at one of the many cute cafes like C.A.P (161/2 Sukhaphiban Rd., 085499-6266), Sometimes Coffee & Gallery (235 Sukhaphiban Rd., 096-183-8516) or Fu Cafe (intersection of Pracha Niyom and Sukhaphiban roads, 092-906-2244). For lunch, make your way to the stylishly whitewashed Chanthorn Pochana (102/5-8 Benjamarachutis Rd.) for a feast of traditional Chanthaburi pork curry with sour chamuang leaves (B120), Chanthaburi-style fried noodles with crab (B50100) and hot and sour soup with snapper and snake fruit (B200-300). The restaurant is so popular it has even opened a second branch.
Gothic Madonna Chanthaburi’s unique blend of cultures results in a melodious mish-mash of temples and shrines within a small area. The most striking and unexpected is Thailand’s answer to Notre Dame—the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (110
Soi 1 Mu 10). This surreal grey-turreted Gothic spectacle was built in the late 19th century over the course of 20 years and was opened to the public just 12 years ago, following renovations. Once inside, be sure to raise your eyes to roof, which is shaped like a boat to commemorate the journey of Vietnamese migrants to the region. The cathedral’s peach-pink walls are punctuated by ornamental white stucco, while colorful light streams through stained glass windows portraying Christian saints. Don’t miss the most recent and extravagant addition to the ensemble: a glittering statue of Mary cast from 76kg of silver and girded with approximately 200,000 white gems and blue sapphires. It was crafted and unveiled to mark the cathedral’s hundredth year. To see this holy structure in use, head there for daily Mass (6am or 7pm).
Getting There Considering its proximity to Bangkok, it’s a wonder Chanthaburi isn’t more overrun with tourists. Regular buses depart from Mo Chit, Ekkamai and Suvarnabhumi—priced B200-300, each way. Consider combining your trip with a visit to neighboring Trat, located just one hour’s drive to the east. Trat is served by Bangkok Airways (from B4,000 return).
BAAN RIM AO Completed in 2018, this modern, four-star bayside hotel is a 25-minute drive from Chanthaboon Old Town. The property sits on the waterfront, with stunning views encompassing the large pool, a koi pond filled with lotus flowers and the bay and hills beyond. The fisherman-themed decor translates to plenty of natural materials and curved lines. Come evening, listen to live music at the waterside Bangmanao Restaurant and bar—just be sure to cover up, as mosquitoes are rife. Rooms run from B2,000/night, with petfriendly rooms priced at B2,500 and deluxe Jacuzzi rooms at B3,500. Situated just an hourplus drive from Trat’s Laem Ngop, this hotel serves as an excellent jumping off point for onward travel to neighboring islands like Koh Chang and Koh Mak. 76 Nongbua M.10, Nong Bua, 081-575-8339. www.baan-rim-ao-th.book.direct/en-us
10/4/19 5:43 PM
neighborhood | national stadium
23
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2019
Taan
Jeh O
Jamie’s Burgers
Bua Loy Parinya
More like National Playdium Leave your biases at home—National Stadium is shedding its reputation as a tourist trap and uni student haunt. By Jesse Day
Coffee & Breakfast Start the day with an espresso (B65) at Kobori Daily Café (733 735 Banthat Thong Rd.) or a slowpour coffee (B75) from Gallery Drip Coffee (BACC, Rama 1 Rd.). Inside the revamped MBK, stop by Healthylicious (444 Phayathai Rd.) for one of the frozen smoothies (B98). More of a tea person? Try Café at Ease (38/1 Rama 1 Soi 2) and share a pot of rose tea (B150) next to the Jim Thompson House. For something more filling, grab a breakfast set (B100) at Lub’D Hostel Café (925, 9 Rama I Rd.), which comes with scrambled eggs, a croissant, toast and your choice of coffee or tea.
Lunch & Dinner MBK’s underrated food court is packed with delicious options. Same goes for the food court at I’m Park (353 Chula Soi 9, Charoen Muang Rd). For something more substantial, head to Jamie’s Burgers
(1/F, Naplab, Chula Soi 6), home to one of Bangkok’s best burgers (B159). For street eats, check out Kao Tom Santipap (1412 Banthat Thong Rd.) for excellent stir-fried shrimp (B100), Jae Bow (Banthat Thong Rd.; across from Soi Chula 14) for mouth-watering chicken rice (B50) or Jeh O (113 Soi Charat Mueang) for tom yam mama noodles, but be prepared to wait— this place is packed on the regular. Looking for indoor dining? Try Hua Kitchen (677 Banthat Rd.) for crispy pork noodles (B40) or go for the inventive, great-value tasting menu at Taan (25/F, Siam @ Siam Design Hotel, 865 Rama 1 Rd.).
Dessert Try the coconut milk dumplings (B45) at Bua Loy Parinya (1448 Banthat Thong Rd.), or do like the Chula kids and visit Seng Sim Eee (Chulalongkorn Soi 5) for nam khaeng sai (Chinese shaved ice and syrup). To satisfy late-night cravings, head to Bua Loy Jae Wun
MBK
(1700 Banthat Thong Rd.) or try Sweet Circle (Suan Luang Square, Chulalongkorn Soi 5) for cutesy homemade sweet dumplings.
Drinks The area isn’t much for nightlife, but there are some solid options if you look hard enough. Go for a pint while you catch the soccer game at Sala Cafe & Bistro (709 Banthat Thong Rd.). Or mix and match six beers (B650) at Asia Bar and Kitchen (G/F, Holiday Inn Express, 889 Rama 1 Rd.)—the cocktails (from B150) aren’t bad, either. Feat Lab (342/11 Phayathai Rd.) is the best option in the ‘hood for beer geeks. They boast an enviable list of Thai and foreign craft beers (starting at B180).
Transport BTS National Stadium. It’s not a bad area to bike around, either.
Visit Don’t skip the rotating exhibitions
at free-to-enter Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC, 939 Rama I Rd.) before venturing off to aptly named gallery, cafe and co-working space Yelo House (20/2 Rama I Rd.). The sprawling Stadium One (Chulalongkorn Soi 6) is a hub for fitness freaks, with over 100 sports stores, five floors of fitness offerings, spas and more. If you’re feeling active, hit up the running tracks or 50-meter pool at the National Stadium (154 Rama I Rd.) complex.
Accommodation B23,000 will get you a 40-sq-meter one-bedroom at four-year-old The Reserve Kasemsan 3 (9 Soi Kasemsan 3), while you can move into a 67-sq-meter two-bedroom overlooking the Saen Saeb Canal and the Jim Thompson House at Condo One Siam (9-37 Soi Kasem San 3) for B28,000. If you want space, check out the lovingly refurbished, 210-sq-meter three-bedrooms at Pathumwan Place (13 Soi Kasemsan 1), which start at B100,000.
BK ASKS
What makes National Stadium special?
NEW_Neighbourhood-BK#772-11OCT2019.indd 25
FASAI WIWATWAONWANA, SALA CAFE & BISTRO MANAGER “There are a lot of great food and beverage spots and especially excellent specialty coffee shops. It’s also a great area to unwind by playing sports with friends, as well as for watching sports over a couple beers.”
SORRASAK HOPRASERT, KOBORI DAILY CAFE OWNER “Obviously there are a ton of students here, so that adds a unique factor—young people keep the neighborhood fresh and exciting. The coffee scene is also blossoming around Chula, maybe because the students need to stay caffeinated.”
PONGSAKORN “JAMES” BOONRAKSA, JAMIE’S BURGERS OWNER “It’s a great place for athletics. It’s a very fitness-focused community. People like to take care of themselves here, but they also like to have some fun, too. I think we’ve found the balance.”
10/4/19 5:47 PM
P.24 Marriott.indd 2
10/3/19 5:28 PM