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Dancing Boots Where to party this festival season Global Glutton Explore far-flung cuisines without leaving Bangkok In Design Meet Thailand’s award-winning up-and-comers Bubblehead Putting boba tea to the test

Grit over glam NO. 774 NOVEMBER 8, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com

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page 3 Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Craig Sauers Associate Editor Willy Thorn Deputy Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writer Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Writers Suthivas Tanphaibul, Megan Leon Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2019

November News Quiz

04 upfront

From dorm room omakase to five-star hotel chef

How closely have you been following the news? Test your knowledge with our latest quiz.

1. A Thai granny last month:

Business Development Director Jane Bay Senior Business Developmet Manager Madeleine Anantasuk

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Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom

cover

Beautiful mess

Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

Interns Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Vongsathon Karnchanapandh Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

Asia City Media Group

a Defamation for calling a Tham Luang rescue diver a “pedo guy” in a tweet b Treason for exchanging NASA secrets with the Chinese for electrodes he can plant in your brain c Unlawful possession of a flamethrower d Murder for killing Grimes’ career

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3. What is Dean & Deluca guilty of doing recently?

nightlife

a Defaulting on B2.6 billion of debt owed to Siam Commercial Bank b Auctioning off all the equipment and perishable items at its last US store c Serving a table of Wongnai vloggers overpriced and underwhelming pancakes d All of the above e A and B only

Festival season is here

Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

24 food

Underrated cuisines

get in the loop

26 shopping

Thai designers to watch

4. What was a carload of unsuspecting tourists in Khao Yai startled to find? a b c d

Uncle Tu whipping past on an e-scooter A UFO en route to Khao Kala in Nakhon Sawan An elephant lying down on the roof of the car Safe and orderly traffic on Thai roads

5. Ya dong laced with what substance caused the death of two people in Chonburi?

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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a Was mowed down by a motorcyclist after a check-up at her local medical clinic b Was found to still be breathing while lying in her coffin at the funeral home awaiting cremation c Was found by a doctor to quite obviously not be risen from the dead and subsequently sent back to the funeral home to be prepared for cremation d Cut in front of you in the queue at Tops e All of the above 2. What is Elon Musk standing trial for in December?

SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associates Palita Nueangnit Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri

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a Tiger penis b Toad extract c Krating Daeng d Truffle salt e Family Mart oden broth

28 neighborhood

Ari

Answer key 1 E 2 A—stay classy, Elon 3 E—no one eats at Dean & Deluca anymore 4 C 5 B, although all are plausible

contest, updates, stories

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upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2019

04

HOT OR NOT

UPCYCLING

You see a sprinkler system put in place to combat PM2.5.

Others see a garbage can. Recently, an air-purifying sprinkler placed in Jatujak Park was ingeniously transformed into a bin, piled to the brim with plastic bottles and bags.

Clearly, citizens have caught on to the ineffectiveness of city hall’s response to the ongoing—and worsening—pollution and took the opportunity to turn trash into treasure.

Well done.

This dorm room omakase chef has hit the jackpot INTERVIEW

Kitsanin “Bright” Thanyakulsajja arrived in the Netherlands in 2015 ready to focus on his bachelor’s in humanities. Instead, he ended up serving omakase menus in his dorm room. Now he runs a sushi bar in a five-star hotel, plans to open his own restaurant and is about to star in a documentary series about culinary rebels.

He tells us how it all unfolded.

“Being in Amsterdam means that I'm the only one doing omakase.”

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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Being self-trained, how do your skills stack up in a professional kitchen?

There are certainly limitations of being selftrained, but being in Amsterdam means that I’m the only one doing omakase—other chefs are still doing casual sushi. If I were in Bangkok or Tokyo, I don’t think my level would be high enough to open a full-fledged omakase restaurant quite yet.

What did you learn from your dorm room days?

Resourcefulness mainly, but it’s also a feedback loop—you have to start with a certain resourcefulness and self-reliance to begin a concept like this in the first place. In my dorm room, it was my personal space and so people were much more ready to listen to what I had to say. Now that I’m running my project in a hotel, people walk in with a more classical sense of what sort of hospitality this type of dinner should come with.

How did you source your ingredients?

I started using ingredients from the market. As I started doing more and more fine dining, I got to know more chefs and they connected me with their suppliers. So, I was using the same bracket of ingredients as these Michelin-starred restaurants, which was quite an absurd experience.

Tell us about your upcoming restaurant.

The deadline that I’ve set for myself is June-July 2020. It will have a total of 15 seats—nine on my main bar and six on the secondary bar, which my assistants will run at a lower price. Both will be omakase with a focus on raw seafood, but I also want to expand on the use of European vegetables within the concept.

Any plans to open it in Thailand?

At some point it would be cool to have my own place in Bangkok—for now, it’s more a fantasy than an actual plan. The problem is that the market is rather saturated for a form of dining that is supposedly meant to be niche. In Bangkok, we’ve got some superlatively skilled individuals, but we also have frozen farmed fish marketed as wild, aged Japanese imports sometimes. I might not be ready to handle this sort of post-truth consumption yet.

What’s the best/worst feedback you’ve received?

My guests are mostly without reference points, because omakase doesn't really exist in this country. So, they compare me to any form of exposure they’ve had with sushi, like all-youcan-eat and boxed sushi. They then believe that [mine] is the best sushi ever. I’m happy that they love it, but positive feedback doesn't carry much constructive weight to me.

Do you find it ironic that top chefs lined up to dine amongst broke uni students?

For students, it’s a question of priority. Most of the students who claim they’re broke could save up money for concerts and festivals, which cost more than a Michelin-starred meal. As for chefs, I do find it rather absurd. Usually you have to work for hundreds and thousands of hours to develop yourself to the point where top chefs would be interested in your place. Pakchira Bunphol

TRUE LOVE Good news for prospective sugar babies: Sugarbook, an online dating platform connecting so-called sugar babies with sugar daddies, is here.

Promising a space “where romance meets finance,” the app does away with the veneer of actual love, instead offering companionship for money. Founder Darren Chan says sex isn’t obligated. While “strongly encouraged” isn’t in the fine print, it feels implicit.

MEDICAL DEVICES If you’re one of the roughly 13 million people in Thailand with high blood pressure, you’ll soon be able to assess your current fitness a little more easily. The Ministry of Public Health is teaming up with other agencies, including the BMA, to install 100 blood pressure monitors in public places across Bangkok. Of course, what would really help is giving up smoking and going light on the processed foods.

SODIUM CHLORIDE After implementing a tax on sugary drinks a couple of years ago, the Excise Department is now just a pinch away from taxing salty foods, too— the higher the sodium content, the higher the tax. The reason?

Over 100,000 Thai patients suffer from terminal stage kidney disease, costing the country nearly B20 billion per year. By 2022, both figures are expected to double.

Let’s lay off the Mama noodles, yeah?

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

11/1/19 4:42 PM

SC ASSET CELEBRATES SUCCESS WITH A VINTAGE LIMITED-EDITION LEICA A classic brass body with modern functions To honor its 17-year journey in the real estate business, SC Asset has joined hands with the world’s top camera manufacturer to roll out a unique and timeless design camera—the Leica M10-P "SC ASSET". The series, which includes only

lens, and a charcoal green leather case that enhances the refined vintage vibe.

To make it more unique, Leica M10-P is also carved with isometric perspective lines—a method used in architecture to represent three-dimensional objects in

30 cameras, aptly represents SC Asset’s passion for meticulous craftmanship for their customers and the world.

Inspired by Leica M Series, this camera has a classic aesthetic and look, with a pure brass body and brass controls, plus a brass shutter release button and viewfinder. Through repeat usage, the brass oxidizes and develops patina—giving the camera a matt-y, classic aged look.

simpler two dimensions—with the camera’s serial number, and limited edition number.

The Leica M10-P "SC ASSET" is also specially designed with the M series’ trademark vintage white dot signature

Aside from the delicate design and brilliant brass color, the camera features a full-frame CMOS sensor with 24mil pixels that provides lower noise and high ISO dynamic range, as well as a threeinch LCD touch screen, rangefinder with 0.73x magnification, and quiet shutters.

The 30 limited edition cameras are available at Leica Store Bangkok, 2/F Gaysorn Village, 02-656-1102, and Leica Store Bangkok, M/F Emquartier, 02-003-6068.

More Information visit www.scasset.com/scassetxleica

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cover |

DROP DEAD CONSTANT FLOODING, DEFIANT TAXI DRIVERS, GRIDLOCKED TRAFFIC, RAMSHACKLE SIDEWALKS— BANGKOK PISSES US OFF ON THE REG. BUT WHEN PUSH COMES TO SHOVE, WOULD WE WANT TO LIVE ANYWHERE ELSE? BY CHOLTANUTKUN TUN-ATIRUJ

The Hazepocalypse Late last year, Bangkok was hit with toxic PM2.5 smog that hung over the city like a Dickensian metaphor all the way through February. Bangkokians were buying anti-pollution masks as if they were going out of fashion and vendors were even slinging them on the street. Over 400 schools had to be closed, while the authorities scrambled to come up with laughable solutions like shooting water cannons up into the sky, drenching hapless passersby in the process.

As proved in a recent parliament debate about PM2.5, questioning the government is useless. In response to questions from the Future Forward party on how to tackle the issue, Prime Minister Gen. Prayuth Chan-ocha offered the reassuring idiom: “I took the hot bath before you”—a Thai proverb indicating that he is older and therefore wiser. Maybe that time-honored wisdom just hasn’t paid dividends yet, because in October the Great Smog returned, this time more insidious than ever.

BANGKOK SURVIVAL TIPS

“When you look outside, it may not look like the pollution is bad because it’s not visible to the eye, but that’s not always the case,” says Thidakarn “Dr. Pink” Rujipattanakul, M.D., deputy hospital director at Samitivej Sukhumvit Hospital. “It is very important to monitor the level of pollution, as it changes every day. When it’s bad, you should reduce outdoor activities. I don’t recommend running in the park [even] with a mask. You should close all windows, too. It’s not

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BEAT THE HAZE WITH THESE MASKS N-95 HAZE-RESISTANT MASK What: Simple but effective, this affordable haze-resistant N95 mask can block out PM2.5 levels of dust with its activated carbon filter.

Price: B223 Where: bit.ly/2QOMHkp

just your health that can be affected, but your skin as well. Remember to wash your skin after you’ve just been outside in the PM2.5.” That explains our terrible breakouts, at least.

Gridlock Bangkok: city of smiles, street food and stand-still traffic. Being stuck in a cab as the meter moves faster than your ride is part and parcel of daily life.

Worst of all, it’s totally unpredictable. Public transportation remains limited, not to mention crowded. According to the BTS, the approximate waiting time for a train during rush hour on the Silom line is a sweat-inducing six minutes. Remember: that’s approximate. You’re often stuck in the sun for up to 10 minutes. And forget about the buses—does anyone actually use those rattling, retro-looking deathtraps?

Praise be for the motorbike taxis, without whose services we’d have to walk in this urban heat island. Just whack on their salad-bowl-looking helmet with a broken chin lock and you’re off.

Concrete Jungle Are you suffocating in your allotted 3.3 sq. meters of green space? Well, that’s probably because the World Health Organization recommends almost three times that—at least nine sq. meters per individual—to support citizens’ health and wellbeing. “The environment affects our mental health—nature has the ability to reduce stress and increase creativity. When you live in a city, the chances of that

CAMBRIDGE MASK

happening are very low,” says Dr. Pink. “You can add more plants to your home or office, find time to go out into nature or even explore the city’s parks.”

According to Yossapon Boonsom, a director at sustainable urban landscape architecture firm Shma Designs, we should be looking upwards for a solution: “People always look at the ground, but the city has such limited space, so we should encourage vertical gardens. [And] instead of picking the plants that look most beautiful, we should select the ones that best help reduce pollution.”

It Rains, It Pours Cockroaches, rats and even worse traffic than usual—flooding really does highlight Bangkok’s unique charms. Herman Wu, owner of Just A Drink Maybe, sums up the laissez faire attitude most of us take to the situation: “Just suck it up. Like, can I do anything [about it]?” he says. “Of course the trash makes it worse, but I don’t think there’s any draining system that could tackle the type of rain we get in Bangkok.” On the contrary, landscape architect Yossapon has some sensible solutions up his sleeve. “We need to make sure that we have floodways where water can drain, instead of constructing buildings that block the way,” he says.

flood plains of the Chao Phraya River; as the water level rises each day, our land goes lower.

Once we understand this, the importance of plants and floodways is clear,” says Yossapon.

The Kids Aren’t Alright When someone tells you they’re raising a family in Bangkok, your first thought might be: “Isn’t that child abuse?” For the 99 percent, Bangkok doesn’t exactly live up to the white-picket-fence dream.

But Arnie Marcella, food and beverage director at 72 Courtyard, is choosing to raise his 10-monthold son in Bangkok anyway.

“The downsides—and these are not just in Bangkok but every city—have to be with population density and lack of green space,” Arnie admits. But what do the kids have to say about it? An 11-year-old American who has lived in Bangkok for seven years complains, “The pollution is bad and a lot of people litter.” His eight-year-old sister chimes in, “When the pollution gets to the sea and the sea creatures die, it can affect the food chain and the sharks can’t eat.” Bear that in mind next time you hop in your 4x4 or chuck a plastic bottle on the floor.

Then there’s the mildly concerning news that Bangkok is sinking, dooming us to the same fate as Jack and Rose, but without the romance.

“Bangkok is set on the

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To stop the alarm going off, you have to jump on the rug—if that doesn’t kickstart your day, we don’t know what will.

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What: Combining safety and style, this patterned N-99 military grade, washable respirator is recommended for those living with respiratory illnesses, so it’s certainly a match for the smoggy streets of Bangkok.

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BK BK MAGAZINE MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FRIDAY,NOVEMBER OCTOBER 25, 8, 2019

07

THAILAND EDITION

TOURISM

GORGEOUS Sunny Side Up Sure, the downsides of living in a city so complex might be a little more visible, but it’s the often imperceptible advantages that keep us all rooted here. While the rain is miserable when it comes, don’t forget that we have endless summer for half the year, which makes for a pretty stellar festival season (see page 12 for a snapshot of the best festivals in the pipeline). Thanks to our balmy climate, we also have some of the best street food and rooftop bars in the world—you can’t say that about cities like London and New York, now, can you? Most of us can get away with going to work in chinos and a T-shirt or a summer dress and sandals rather than uptight suits and leather shoes. Plus, we don’t spend 80 percent of the year suffering with the flu unlike our friends in colder climates.

The city isn’t exactly plunging below the sea tomorrow, either. What were we complaining about, again?

Upper Crust Right now, we get to enjoy one of the most vibrant food scenes on Earth, with almost every cuisine you can name represented here— Georgian, Ethiopian, Japanese, even Jamaican (see page 24)—and some major growth in the upper crust, too. For proof, consider the launch of Gaggan Anand this month, the news that Nahm has now reopened under the direction of chef Pim Techamuanvivit and that Dan Bark of Upstairs at Mikkeller is about to open his second independently run venture in early 2020. It just keeps getting better.

Feel the Music Once upon a time, Bangkokians were complaining about being shirked by big-name acts on their world tours. Now, with super-

stars from Mumford and Sons (Nov 21) to Green Day (Mar 11, 2020) hitting our stages— not to mention visits from Ed Sheeran, Bruno Mars, Maroon 5, Celine Dion and Mariah Carey over the past few years—our live music circuit is finally hitting its stride. Bangkok’s indie scene is nothing to be sniffed at, either—if you missed Julie Byrne and Yaeji earlier this year, you can always catch underground stalwarts like Japanese math rock band Toe on Dec 2, Bon Iver on Jan 15, 2020, or even the score composers for “Stranger Things” this Nov 23. And don’t even get us started on our homegrown indie talents and local live music venues.

As Bangkok rises to the status of global city, tourists aren’t just coming to town for the smiles and street food, either. Earlier this month, music streaming service and online music zine Fungjai even held a music trade show at Charoenkrung’s TCDC. Angled at the industry elite, Bangkok Music City’s purpose was clear: to elevate Bangkok as a music tourism destination. It’s safe to say things are heating up.

Round the Clock If you’re still not seeing it, try viewing the city through the eyes of an outsider. Chonlawit “Joe” Wongsriwor, 27, a TV news presenter who moved to Bangkok from Khon Kaen in 2011, cheerily comments, “Bangkok is very vibrant. Everything seems to be available at all times. If you can’t take a cab, there’s always a motorbike taxi nearby. There are also plenty of places to hang out, eat or drink, and there’s always something happening every week—you’ll never run out of options.”

Meanwhile, Sirorat “Blu” Stuart, 31, who moved to Bangkok from Chiang Mai a year ago to develop her career and skills, tells us “I like being in civilization, even if that also means population density. Everything is so

convenient and close together.” With streetfood and taxis available round-the-clock, there’s no denying that Bangkok is the ultimate 24-hour city.

Sweet Escape Let’s not forget that if it all gets too much, we have awesome beaches and lush national parks right on our doorstep. Chilled out Koh Samet can be reached in under five hours, the white sandy beaches of Hua Hin in three, and the misty forests and gushing waterfalls of Khao Yai in just two. Taking advantage of this, 72 Courtyard’s Arnie Marcella makes sure that he and his family get out of the city often, even if it’s just for the day. “It’s very easy to get out of the central area and spend time near the river and floating markets, or even take the weekend away to places like Koh Kret or Bang Krachao,” he says.

The Kids Are Alright Lily Wisootsat, 26, who has lived in Asoke all her life, tells us “I didn’t mind growing up in the city at all. Living in Bangkok has made me street-smart. You become really alert when you grow up in a city as busy as this, and you meet people from all walks of life,” nodding to the kind of cultural diversity you can only find in a capital city as freewheeling and open as Bangkok. On raising kids in Bangkok, Marcella adds, “When people ask me why, a lot of it has to do with cultural exposure.” Even kids see the benefits. The eight-year-old American sums it up best, saying, “My favorite thing about living in Bangkok is the community.

People are so nice, kind and caring. It’s interesting—you get to see and meet people from all kinds of cultures.” D’aww.

AIR PURIFYING HOUSE PLANTS

BOSTON FERN

DWARF DATE PALM

This type of plant requires a lot of water. It is adept at clearing formaldehyde from the air.

A small-to-medium sized plant that’s able to grow in both direct sunlight and with little light. It’s great at sucking pollutants from the air like xylene.

GET WET IN STYLE WITH THESE RAIN BOOTS THAI FARMING BOOTS What: Forget Hunter and turn Thai agricultural working boots into something chic in Bangkok with these guys. They are super practical, comfortable and very affordable.

Price: B279 Where: bit.ly/2MK4cUc

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For the fourth consecutive year, Krung Thep takes the top spot in Mastercard’s Global Destination Cities Index. Not to be confused with the Global Cities Index, which is not nearly as fun, Mastercard’s study ranked us ahead of Paris and London at nearly 23 million visitors to our little slice of heaven. Thank you, Mastercard! (By the way, we love our new BK stands, joob joob.)

BANGKOK TRAFFIC Gone are the days when every car had a Comfort 100 (Google it, kids) and the bookend to “Have you eaten yet?” (hello) was “Have you peed yet?” (goodbye).

Believe it or not, in the most recent list of Planet Earth’s most congested cities, we ranked no. 7 (tied with Jakarta and Istanbul). What are the odds we’ll be able to move out of the top 10? We do know one thing: e-scooters won’t be the answer.

CURRENCY The baht is the world’s best performing currency, gaining nearly 8 percent on the US dollar over the past year. Not so hot if you’re in the export business, though, or a foreign retiree on a pension in your home currency.

EDUCATION Thailand dropped 11 places and is now ranked 64th out of 88 nations when it comes to English proficiency. Among our neighbors, we scored higher than Cambodia (no.

85) and Myanmar (no. 82) but below Indonesia, Vietnam, Malaysia, The Philippines and those show-offs in Singapore (no. 3).

EQUALITY We’re number two, and it’s kind of a big deal. According to Credit Suisse, Thailand ranks second globally for women represented in senior management. We even have the highest percentage of female CFOs and third-highest rate of female CEOs.

INEQUALITY The world’s most unequal nation?

The Land of Smiles?

Credit Suisse lifts us up only to let us down: according to the group’s research institute, if the poorest 50 percent of our fellow citizens pooled all their assets, the total would amount to less than 2 percent of Thailand’s wealth.

Meanwhile, on the other side of Khlong Toei, Thailand’s top 1 percent own nearly 67 percent of the country. We could’ve made a pie chart, but it would’ve been the saddest graphic ever.

CITY ESCAPE KOH KRET Yes, Bang Kachao is cool and all, but does it have Chitbeer, a craft beer brewing school and bar that sells bottles for B100? Koh Kret is a small island in the Chao Phraya River, located about an hour and a half outside of Bangkok. Take a boat across from Nonthaburi and you’ll be dispatched to a hipster’s haven full of quirky hostels and coffee shops.

11/1/19 4:37 PM

hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2019

08

01

Charoenkrung’s historic Customs House gets a new lease on life

ATTRACTION

After announcing plans to redevelop Customs House—the crumbling but striking heritage building located along the banks of the Chao Phraya River—earlier this year, the Treasury Department has teamed up with U City Public Company Limited to kickstart the restoration of the 130-year-old landmark. The B4.6 billion riverside project will take over a five rai plot of land and is estimated to take approximately six years to complete, starting with archaeological excavations (expected to be completed in early 2020), the renovation and structural reinforcement of the original three buildings and the construction of one new building. As reported by the Bangkok Post, the redevelopment will turn the old Customs House into a luxury hotel, giving the riverside yet another feather in its cap by 2025.

NUMEROLOGY

6 things you could buy for B52,900 instead of the 512GB iPhone 11 Pro Max

2,116 125

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cups of Americano at 7-Eleven’s All Cafe (B59) Fly Me to the Moon cocktails at Lennon’s, Rosewood Bangkok (B420)

khai jiew poo at Jay Fai (B800)

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standing tickets to see Green Day live in Bangkok in Mar 2020 (B3,000)

9

night stay in a deluxe sea view room at Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa (B5,600/ night)

7

pairs of Ray-Ban Clubmaster sunglasses (B7,310)

ShoppingNews-BK#774-8NOV2019.indd 12

MARKET

SHOPPING

TECH

02 Made by Legacy is

03 The UK’s sportswear

04 Behold Bang &

back with real live horse racing If you were devastated you missed Made by Legacy’s equestrian-themed fair in 2018, then mark your calendars: the uber-cool flea market is returning Nov 22-24, this time with actual horse racing. The market will take place at Sanampao’s Royal Stable Unit to the backdrop of Princess Cup Thailand 2019—meaning you can browse through well-worn fashion pieces, eclectic vintage wares and arts and crafts while watching the races. Expect a slew of food trucks, live bands and DJs. Entry is free and pets are welcome. The Royal Stable Unit Bangkok, Phahon Yothin Rd. Fri-Sun 1pm-midnight

giant comes to Siam

Good news, sneakerheads: you no longer have to trek all the way to IconSiam just to cop the latest drop from Nike at JD Sports. Its latest flagship at Siam Center is packed with a curated selection of sports apparel and footwear from top brands like Adidas, Nike, Fila, Puma, New Balance, Vans, Converse and more, with new zones dedicated to women’s and kids’ fashion to boot. Head there for the freshest kicks like Nike Air Force 1 Shadow (B4,200) and Puma Storm Origin (B3,900). 1/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-288-0922. Open daily 10am-10pm

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT NUAYNARD “CHUEN JIT” BODY WASH This hydrating body wash is inspired by traditional fragrances. B265; available at Another Story, 4/F, The Emquartier.

BIN IT MAISON MARGIELA TABI BOOTS These camel toe boots have taken the ugly shoe trend way too far.

Olufsen’s beautiful new seasonal collection Danish high-end audio brand Bang & Olufsen has unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2019 collection called “The Classic and the Clash,” offering four of its most popular products in monochrome stylings with a beautiful, seasonal color palette—think chestnut and peony. The collection features the Beoplay E6 in-ear wireless earphones and Beoplay H9 wireless headphones, as well as two portable speakers—the Beoplay A1 and Beoplay B6. Our top pick goes to the Beoplay A1 (B10,900), a compact-size bluetooth speaker ideal for carrying-on-the-go. Available at 1/F, Gaysorn Village, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1017

BARGAIN J’LOLITA NAIL SPA & MORE Get a luxurious hand and foot spa with Jo Malone products for only B999 (from B2,590); through Nov 30. 2/F, Bambini Villa, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 061-664-6449.

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Punk rock revivalists The Cavemen descend upon Thonglor

ENDLESS LIGHT / ETERNAL DARKNESS 2.0 Journey into the night with globe-spanning sounds from international DJs VAN-BOOM, C-Kay, Salem Rashid and Wanton Witch. Nov 8, 10pm. Safe Room, Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. B300.

ORIENTAL SUB SESSIONS #006 A Friday night party featuring garage, dubstep, footwork and drum ‘n’ bass from DJs Dave Soul, Oomboi Lauw and Ozram. Nov 8, 9pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089-8898059. Free.

LIVE MUSIC

HARRY POTTER AND THE PHILOSOPHER’S STONE Trigger your nostalgia in a whole new way when a live symphony orchestra performs “Harry Potter” tunes while a projector screens the classic film. Nov 23-24, 5pm.

Prince Mahidol Hall, Salaya, 02-849-6565. From B900 via ThaiTicketmajor.

DELTA SLEEP – MATH ROCK APPRECIATION The British math rock band plays its first Bangkok show alongside local Thai-Japanese post-rock instrumentalists PHY. Nov 24, 7:30pm. De Commune, Liberty Plaza, 1/F, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 088-4197380. B750 via Ticketmelon.

ART CONCERT

Who says punk is dead? On Nov 17, Kiwi band The Cavemen bring their throwback, hard-charging and sweat-soaked brand of punk rock to Speakerbox. The group of four relocated from Auckland to London in 2015, released their self-titled debut and gradually made a name for themselves on Europe’s underground scene. Now they’re setting sail for Asia, most likely with plenty of middle fingers and mosh pits in tow.

Check out incendiary tracks like “Gimme Beer or Gimme Death” and “Lust for Evil” from 2018 release Nuke Earth to get a taste for their fuzzy, Stooges-like sound—which Spill Magazine has described as “like a sledgehammer to the side of the head”—and expect a wild night: The Cavemen are known for high-energy and no-holds-barred performances. Liberty Plaza, 40 Sukhuvmit Soi 55 (Thonglor). B300 at the door (includes one drink).

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MUMFORD & SONS The Grammy Award-winning British folk-rock band make their way to Bangkok for the first time. Nov 21, 8pm.

GMM Live House, Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd. via Livenation.

KYLE DIXON & MICHAEL STEIN The duo behind the nostalgic, synth-heavy beats on “Stranger Things” comes to Bangkok. Nov 23, 8pm. Siam Pic-Ganesha Theatre, 7/F, Siam Square One, 388 Rama

“GIRLS, NOT OBJECTS” This photo-based art exhibition tackles the objectification of teenage idols by examining the practice of “photo set selling.” Nov 16-17, 5:30pm. Joyman Gallery, 357/359 Maha Chai Rd., 065-124-2222. Free.

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conflict. Nov 14, 8pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089889-8059. Free.

06 Boy Pablo brings breezy indie

vibes back to Bangkok

Norwegian indie pop-rock band Boy Pablo flips the switch completely from The Cavemen show, when it performs live for the second time in Bangkok this Nov 22. The indie pop group’s first single “Flowers” debuted in 2016, but the five-piece slid into the international spotlight in 2017 when its video for “Everytime” went viral.

The band parlayed that success into a 2018 Breakthrough Artist of the Year award at Spellemannprisen—the Norwegian answer to the Grammys. Voice Space, BBD Building (Viphavdi), 197 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd. B2,000 via Ticketmelon.

COMEDY THE IMAGE OF THE BUDDHA This exhibition explores the story of Gautama Buddha through the unique crosscultural lens of local artist Rachata Siriyakul. Through Jan 12, 11am. Serindia Gallery, Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-238-6410.

A KATANYU: BULLY PLANET This performance by local comedian Katanyu Swangsri might help you stand up to bullies in clever new ways.

Nov 16 -17, 7pm. Siam Pic-Ganesha Theatre, 7/F, Siam Square one, 388 Rama I Rd., 02-257-2899. From B600 via ThaiTicketmajor.

TALK

SCREENING

07 Get a taste of the West End at

this musical extravaganza

On Nov 16, get up close and personal with two bright young stars from London’s West End at Broadway in Bangkok Unplugged.

Tenor singer Daniel Koek—one of the youngest men to play Jean Valjean in the original production of “Les Misérables”—and Harriet Jones, who starred as Christine Daae in “The Phantom of the Opera,” bring belters from their former roles, as well as additions from the likes of “Wicked,” “Mary Poppins,” “Rent,” “Aladdin” and “Miss Saigon.” Aksra Theatre, 8 Soi Rang Nam. From B1,000 via ThaiTicketMajor.

SCREEN

I’M ON A BOAT

Find your sea legs at these boat parties

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THE MARRIAGE OF SANG THONG Bangkok-born Australian sculptor Vipoo Srivilasa portrays the burning issue of same-sex marriage (LGBTQ+) through the classic Thai mythology of “Sang Thong.” Through Jan 19, 10am. Subhashok The Art Centre (S.A.C), Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02662-0299. Free

RANKING JOE & FRIENDS REGGAE CRUISE Pretend the Chao Phraya is the Caribbean as you float down the river and chill out to live reggae music. Nov 15, 9pm. Bangkok Island, dock opposite Charoen Krung Soi 57. B700.

KARMA KRUISE Can’t get enough boat action? Bangkok’s most iconic floating party brings a pre-party to the riverside and then promises huge line-ups on board. Nov 23, 2pm. B1,400 via Ticketmelon.

CULTURAL STUDIES FILM: BAKUR A documentary film following a Kurdish separatist group in Turkey, the PKK (Kurdistan Workers’ Party), and its role as a trigger in Middle Eastern

TEDXYOUTH @BANGKOK 2019 Eleven talks and shows focused on spreading ideas and stories from lesser-privileged Thai kids. Nov 17, 12:30pm.

C asean, CW Tower, 10/F, 90 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-7859999. B300/student, B500/ regular and B1,000/charity member via Eventpop.

LITERATURE NEILSON HAYS BANGKOK LITERATURE FESTIVAL 25 award-winning international writers lead talks, poetry readings and panel discussions, alongside an art and craft market, workshops and film screenings. Nov 16-17.

Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd. Free.

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Festival Survival Kit

GLITTER B129 Available at fb.com/ theglitterglambytanya

Glitterati

Festival Season has arrived! Here’s where to party in Bangkok and beyond. By Angela Symons and Willy Thorn

POLAROID SUNNIES B4,800 Available at fb.com/ Glassaholicstore

Maho Rasop Festival

E-san Music Festival Thailand #8

Fly To The Moon 2020

Organized by three of the city's busiest concert organizers—Have You Heard?, Seen Scene Space and Fungjai—this festival’s second edition will unite over 30 international artists, with musical styles ranging from indie rock to post-punk to electronic. The killer line-up features English pop-rockers Bombay Bicycle Club, Australian scuzz-punks King Gizzard & The Lizard Wizard, English goth-rockers The Horrors and American surf-rockers The Drums (US), joined by Badbadnotgood (US), Cuco (US), Swim Deep (UK), Benny Sings (NL), Cosmo’s Midnight (AUS) and Pomrad (BE). Local acts include Youngohm & Young Bong, Stoic, Khana Bierbood and many more.

Head up north for this hippy, grassroots festival, featuring a kaleidoscopic range of live music and entertainment, from luk thung and molam to rock ‘n’ roll, bluegrass and reggae, by both local and international artists.

Ring in the new year with this five-day festival on Koh Mak. Now in its eighth year, the celebration is known for its boat and beach parties, DJs and activities such as yoga, meditation, kayaking and trash pick-ups.

Date: Nov 29-30 Location: Ubol Ratana Dam, Khon Kaen Price: From B500

Date: Dec 28-Jan 1 Location: Koh Mak, Trat Price: B1,800 without boat party; B2,800 with boat party

Date: Nov 16-17 Location: Live Park Rama 9, Bangkok Price: B2,990 for a one-day pass; B3,990 for a twoday pass

Very Festival Bangkok event organizer The Very Company is going in big for their debut festival, rounding up 20 acts—including some huge international names.

The two-day event will be headlined by French multi-instrumentalist FKJ (Vincent Fenton, aka French Kiwi Juice); British alternative/indie rock bands Nothing But Thieves and The Kooks; Sydney’s reggae-slash-indie rock band Sticky Fingers, and up-and-coming bands with female leads like The Marias (Los Angeles) and Pale Waves (Manchester, UK). French indie pop band Tahiti 80 and Australian artist Sun Rai will also play. On the Thai side are many familiar Bangkok names like Safeplanet, Whal & Dolph, Somkiat and more.

Date: Nov 16-17 Location: Show DC Arena, Bangkok Price: B3,600 via Ticketmelon

Cat Expo 6 Cat Radio’s two-day music and lifestyle festival will feature over 100 local indie and rock acts across multiple stages, including Better Weather, Costlywood, Phum Viphurit, Scrubb, Slot Machine, Polycat, Two Pills After Meal, Whal & Dolph and more, alongside stalls selling Thai music and goods by Thai artists.

Date: Nov 23-24 Location: Siam Amazing Park; Suan Siam Rd., Khan Na Yao Price: B1,500

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808 Festival Back for its seventh year, 808 brings a huge lineup of electro and house music to Bangkok, including American EDM sensation Skrillex (“Bangarang” and “Make It Bun Dem”), Scottish chart-topper Calvin Harris ("Summer" and "Feel So Close”) and German-Russian DJ/producer Zedd ("Clarity" and "Stay the Night”).

Date: Dec 6-8 Location: BITEC Bangna, Bangkok Price: B3,345 for a three-day pass

Big Mountain Music Festival Supported by Pepsi, the biggest music festival in Thailand will celebrate its tenth edition with eight stages spanning various types of music from over 200 artists, including Big Ass, Potato, Polycat, Slot Machine, Bodyslam, The Toys and a whole load more. The festival also offers camping grounds and parking.

Date: Dec 7-8 Location: The Ocean Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima Price: B2,500; B3,500 for VIP

Wonderfruit This four-day, eco-friendly festival of art, music, food and wellness is back for the sixth time, bringing an adventurous line-up that spans esoteric British DJ and producer Four Tet, Daddy G of Massive Attack acclaim, French house producer-singer duo Breakbot & Irfane, Japanese ambient-pianist Midori Hirano, Germany’s Acid Pauli, a slew of locals led by rockers Mattnimare and The Richman Toy, and more. There will also be a ton of sit-down feasts from big foodie names like Bangkok’s 80/20 and Chiang Mai’s Blackitch.

Date: Dec 12-16 Location: The Fields at Siam Country Club, Pattaya Price: From B6,900 for a weekend pass; B8,100 for four-day pass

The Experience Festival 2019-20

POWER BANK B570 Available at bigc.co.th

Celebrate New Year's on the beach at this four-day non-stop psychedelic trance festival on Koh Tao. Besides the paradisiacal backdrop, there will be music and performances from over 50 international DJs and artists, as well as art installations and other decorations from South Africa’s Artescape and Russia’s Kosta Deco. There will also be parking grounds and free camping areas available (bring your own tent).

Date: Dec 30-Jan 2 Location: Koh Tao, Surat Thani Price: B3,200

Jai Thep Brighten up your January with this three-day outdoor festival of art and music, featuring a host of unique theatrical, dance and visual performances, open mic stages, Thep talks (like Ted Talks, only better?), workshops, and music from the likes of local underground DJ Mendy Indigo, French psytrance legend Talamasca, Indonesian dance-electronic duo Bottlesmoker and more.

Date: Jan 31-Feb 2 Location: Lanna Rock Garden, Chiang Mai Price: B800 for one-day pass; B2,000 for three-day pass

Kolour In The Park 2020 Back once again, this festival of house and techno music will bring its chilled out vibes to the Thai Wake Park, with a local and international lineup of house and electronic artists, plus art installations, food and an onsite lake for water activities. Watch out for the full lineup and ticket details on the website (kolourinthepark.com).

FOLDABLE CUP B320 Available at Better Moon Cafe x Refill Statio, Sukhumvit Soi 77/1

TENT B1,600 Available at decathlon.co.th

Date: March 7 Location: Thai Wake Park, Lamlukka, Pathumthani Price: TBA (usually from B990).

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PHUKET

09 One of Chicago’s top

08

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A modern Lanna boutique hotel opens east of the Ping

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Fancy some beachside fine dining? Then get down to Sri Panwa, Phuket, this Nov 1516, when chef Noah Sandoval of Chicago’s two-Michelin-starred Oriole whips up a sixcourse tasting menu (B5,900) at the five-star resort’s Baba Soul Food restaurant. Dishes will feature the full gamut of luxury ingredients, including golden Oscetra caviar with ulua (giant trevally), Hudson Valley foie gras with Asian pear, sought-after matsutake mushrooms with black truffle custard, Hokkaido scallops and A5 Miyazaki wagyu. Wine pairing is available from B2,888.

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KYOTO

OSAKA

10 Aman Kyoto touches

11 Nintendo geeks

This November, Aman Kyoto unveiled its stunning secluded hideaway, where guests are encouraged to treat themselves to “shinrin-yoku”—the medicine of simply being in the forest. Set beside a river amid the trees, the hotel’s 24 rooms (from B53,200 for Nara garden view, or B90,250 for Hotaru forest and river view) are accessed via whimsical, moss-covered pathways and pay homage to the minimalist wood furnishings of traditional ryokan inns.

There are even natural onsen bathing facilities.

The property is located just 20 minutes’ walk from the UNESCO World Heritage site Kinkaku-Ji temple (the Zen Buddhist “Golden Pavilion”). aman.com/resorts/aman-kyoto

Once upon a time, jumping through green pipes was every Nintendo geek’s dream.

But starting next spring, walking with Mario and the gang will become reality. Super Nintendo World is set to open at Osaka’s Universal Studios in time for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. The dreamland will include both Peach and Bowser’s castles, piranha plants, question mark blocks, golden coins and, yes, green pipes. The main two rides will be based on Super Mario Kart and Yoshi. Best of all, a magnetic wristband will let visitors earn points, which can then be transferred back to Nintendo consoles.

down in a fairytale-like setting

CHIANG MAI

Situated east of the Ping River in Chiang Mai’s Wat Ket neighborhood, the boutique K Maison Lanna hotel has 19 rooms that blend minimalist, modern design with Lanna touches like woven baskets and rattan chairs. Centered around a heated pool, the hotel is a soothing blend of beige, cream, wood and natural greenery revealed through floorto-ceiling windows. Rooms range from the 23-sq-meter Classic Corner (from B4,900/ night) to the two-level, 49-sq-meter Lanna Duplex (from B9,900/night). The hotel’s Bangkok branch debuted in 2015. 67/8 Soi Na Wat Khet, 02-245-1953

should start planning a trip to Osaka

GUIDES Reach affluent urbanites through trusted publications with a six-month to one-year shelf-life.

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS 2019: MUST HAVES BEFORE YOU LEAVE BANGKOK READY TO HIT THE AIRPORT? CHECK YOUR LIST TWICE. Travel gear to get you from here to there

grip, but plenty of padding—perfect for journeys on the move.

H u awe i C o l o r B a n d A 2 (B2,990) — Don’t miss your flight. A clean look built around an XL OLED multitouch screen makes it ideal for him or her. But that’s just the start—the A2 can also track your hikes, and your sleep.

Be sure to set the ‘Reminders’ function with your flight departure time.

Matador Travel Ear Plugs (B490) — In case you want to go the opposite direction. Noisy trains, crowded airports—these can really save your sanity … and your trip. Perfect if your hotel is a little too close to the nightlife district.

Least Studio Hype passport holder (B490) — Make sure you’ve got that ultra-essential document safely stowed. The standout green cover is made from a rubber cutting mat.

Dirty Springwash shower gel by Lush (B895) — For him: sure the name is an oxymoron. But the mint tingle from the suds feel like it has extra scouring power.

It’s made with spearmint and menthol crystals, plus vegetarian glycerin and sea salt, too. Ideal for washing off too many miles.

Calpak carry on bags (B5,100) — For her: Calpak’s carry on luggage line is beautiful.

Lightweight hard-sided models like Astyll, Terrazzo, and Gold Marble are aesthetically designed from sheets of cut stone.

JBL Reflect Mini BT wireless headphones (B3,990) — For her: these were originally d e s i g n e d f o r wo r ko u t s .

They’re comfy and practical, and with Bluetooth, can connect to just about anything.

Marshall Major II Headphones (B4,390) — For him: straightforward classic headphones that are lightweight and stable. They’ve got a firm snug

Brought to you by The Glenlivet

Stay fresh on your trip with deluxe toiletries and essential travel threads

IGK Jet Lag Dry Shampoo (B1,160) — For her: a care product that borders on pure magic. A scrub of this finely-milled volcanic ash erases oils, cleanses mild dirt and refreshes hair. It’s a wonder on your scalp—and practically invisible.

Uniqlo’s Seamless Down Short Coat (B4,990) — For her: the perfect final layer for adventures in and through frozen terrain. The extra length around the thigh keeps you that much warmer. The design is free of exterior stitching, which means it’s extra water-resistant and windproof.

Uniqlo’s Ultra Light Down Seamless Parka (B2,990) — For him: a longtime classic. Affordable, functional and durable. Boasts a stylish contoured hood and a thin nylon riptop shell.

Don’t forget the luxuries! These consummate quality of life kickers-slash-final touches elevate your trip to one for the ages Lomography Sanremo Edition Instant Camera (B4,600) — Buck the digital trend. Capture some cool keepsakes, send your own postcards and print and leave some mementos behind too.

The new Glenlivet Triple Cask Collection — A trio of triple cask-matured single

malts from one of the world’s best-loved brands. Available only at duty-free stores at the airports. There is probably nothing better than sitting at the resort, taking in the fresh air, and sharing a couple of glasses on the rocks among friends. The Triple Cask Collection is specifically made for travelers, and a must-have in our travel bag.

Scotch Rocks whiskey rocks (B3,533) — That’s a steep price tag. But it is worth it.

These designer cubes are essential—and keep your whiskey velvety smooth, without watering down the flavor.

The Ultimate Traveler's Luxury There is nothing better than enjoying a quiet moment in a scenic spot with a smooth glass of quality whisky on the rocks. It truly is the highlight of your trip.

And the better the company around you, the better the whisky is during your travels.

And the new Triple Cask Collection from The Glenlivet tells flavor-focused stories of its own—travelling from cask to cask to create tastes that are refined, elite and smooth. Master Distiller Alex Winchester combines American White Oak, Traditional and Ex Sherry casks in varying proportions to amplify depth and complexity in all three single malts. Each whisky has its own unique flavor profile: the balanced fruity overtones of the Distiller’s Reserve; the sweet and velvety composure of the White Oak Reserve, and the rich and spicy flavors of the Rare Cask.

Come visit the duty-free stores at the international airport now and discover your new travel companion for your adventure ahead.

Learn more about this exclusive collection here.

FB: TheGlenlivetTH IG: @theglenlivet Twitter: @TheGlenlivet

food & drink | news

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HOT OF THE PASS

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You don’t want to miss this anniversary feast

STAR TREATMENT The third Michelin Guide to Thailand is here, and it’s doling out stars to Chiang Mai restaurants for the first time. Stay tuned on Nov 12, when the reveal happens at an invite-only gala.

NO BRAINER

100 Mahaseth, Silom’s nose-to-tail specialist, which rewards diners for taking the plunge into the world of local offcuts, celebrates its second anniversary from 4-10pm on Nov 17 in typical Thai fashion.

The restaurant is offering an all-you-can-eat Thai buffet, where you’ll be able to feast on spicy larb, grilled meats, fried bites, curries, som tam and Isaan specialties, all featuring chef Chalee Kader’s trademark spare-no-parts cooking. The drinks go beyond wine and beer, incorporating local spirits and even humble ya dong. Adding to the evening’s festivities is a traditional muan lam dance on the second floor, plus DJs and musicians playing traditional Thai instruments. Considering you’re getting all this for only B1,500, this is a steal.

100 Mahaseth knows how to party, so reservations are highly recommended.

100 Mahaseth Rd., 02-235-0023

MAKE IT RAIN

WHO’S BAD?

SMOKIN’

13 80/20’s Monsoon Season menu is not to be missed

14 BAD Night Out is in full swing

An umami-fueled wagyu and oyster tartare crowns the current 16-course “Monsoon Season” menu (B3,000/ person) at Charoenkrung’s 80/20, interspersed with delightfully fresh creations like rainbow lobster crudo perched atop a thong muan-inspired crisp with caramelized pork paste. Classic street food gets elevated with melt-in-your-mouth Thai wagyu served skewered and dried, while unlikely ingredients like frog skin crackling and waterbug and garcinia gel keep you on your toes. Save room for dessert, because chef Saki Hoshino’s “Flavors of Coconut” is unmissable.

Available until December. 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Soi 26, 02-639-1135

Throughout November, over 40 of Bangkok’s best bars are joining us for BAD Night Out—a cocktailhopping event that features specially curated cocktail menus, with three drinks priced at a flat rate of B800++. If you missed out on last week, then there’s still time to catch some awesome names like Tropic City, Lennon’s and Sky on 20 (through Nov 9); Cactus, Iron Balls, and To More (Nov 13-16); Aesop’s, Seen and Havana (Nov 20-23); and ABar, Honest Mistake and Uncle Tim (Nov 27-30)—plus many, many more. To see the full line-up and to book your tickets, visit bkrestaurantweek.com/ badnightout/bars.

15 Thonglor’s pitmaster prodigy raises his barbecue game another level Since graduating from an event-touring food truck to a brick-and-mortar home at The Commons four years ago, barbecue specialist Meat & Bones has gained cult status for pitmaster Peerawat “Por” Ruangreungkulrit’s slow-smoked pork ribs (B320) and homemade rubs. Now, Por is upping his game with a new menu that features smoked octopus (B460), in-the-bone beef marrow smoked with American dry rub (available in the beef combo; B1,000) and a 14-hour beef stew served with garlic bread, mashed potatoes or waffle fries (B250). M/F, The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 081-933-7143

NICE RHYTHM Chef Dan Bark from Upstairs has two projects in the works for early 2020. Called Caper and Cadence, the restaurants will operate out of the same kitchen, with Caper offering casual dining and Cadence focusing on classical fine dining plus wine and cocktails.

ICONS COLLIDE Culinary wizard Alain Ducasse is maybe, finally, just about to open his first restaurant in Thailand at IconSiam. Details are scant—including the opening date—but expect Blue by Alain Ducasse to live up to the legendary French chef’s lofty standards.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts.

“Disagree so much with this review. Sampled much of the menu and loved it all. The table side made guacamole is incredible, margaritas nice and the best Mexican I’ve had in Bangkok” FACEBOOK USER CHRIS JAY ON BK’S LOS ATICO REVIEW.

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“Leave your past as a good memory and start fresh. Not even a grain of salt was brought from Gaggan… only new ideas brought forward.”

GAGGAN ANAND POSTS ON INSTAGRAM ABOUT HIS NEW OPENING.

“Very stylish and a very good selection of different craft beers presented by a motivated and very friendly team - a must go if in that area.”

FACEBOOK USER SSLU DOUBLE ON TAI SOON BAR.

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food & drink | open doors

16 Negronis meet pasta at 1919 The buzz: Under Foodie Collection (Vesper, Il Fumo, La Dotta, 80/20), M e d i te r ra n ea n b i st ro - cu m natural wine bar Via Maris has been reborn as an Italian eatery that doubles as Thailand’s first ever official Campari bar.

The vibe: Black and white patterned tiles deck the floor around the curved marble bar, awash with red neon light from a sign proclaiming “We own the night.”

The year is 1919, WWI has just ended and jazz is on the rise—it is also, so the story goes, the year that the Negroni was born in Florence. That’s not the venue’s only tie to Campari’s signature drink—the mixologist of neighboring Vesper, Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana, was awarded first place in the Campari Bartender Competition Asia at the start of 2019. In tribute, colorful vintage Campari posters line the wall above the beige banquette.

The food: Branded as a “pasta and Negroni” bar, you’d be remiss to ignore their carb-loaded line-up of pasta and risotto—try the indulgent Tortelloni 4 Formaggi (B350), filled with Italian cheeses and topped with 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano fondue. While you’re choosing, nibble on small plates like their fresh melon topped with 30-month Sant Ilario Parma ham (B290) and deep-fried truffle and sage balls with fondue (borrowed from La Dotta’s signatures; B320).

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Heftier portions can be found in the meat and seafood mains—we love the colorful pan-seared sea bass with tangy chunks of golden beetroot, orange salsa, black olives, pomegranate and sun-dried tomatoes (B590). To finish, do not miss the oozing chocolate lava cake (B240) with vanilla ice cream—it's pure heaven.

The drinks: Negronis are, of course, a must . Of the seven on offer, we recommend the perfectly-balanced Spatial Concept (B360)—the mix of Campari, Bulldog gin, Cinzano 1757 Rosso and espresso milk punch that won Palm that prize. Be transported to the sun-dappled shores of Italy’s famous lakes with Summer in Lake Como (B340), a light and refreshing mix of Aperol, Mancino Secco, elderflower, lemon and soda. Martini fans will be pleased to see the Duke’s Martini (B590) on the menu.

Why we’d come back: With Vesper next door, this is the perfect place to line your stomach before diving into a night of expertly-crafted cocktails. Plus, that chocolate cake. Angela Symons Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 10% discount on a la carte menu (excluding a la carte menu in Carne section, Chargrilled Australian Wagyu Striploin, Oysters and lunch promotion 15 Oct’19 – 30 Sep’20

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Cream by Flour Flour

TABLE TALK

NEW AND NOTED

17 Bangkok’s most outspoken chef is back for another round

18 Chiang Mai’s bomboloni bakery comes to Silom

Non-conforming chef and Netflix star Gaggan has just surprise-announced his latest project, and it aims to alter the fine dining experience. Located in a vine-covered house midway down Sukhumvit Soi 31, Gaggan Anand requires you to fill out a questionnaire when making a booking for the 14-seat “G’s Spot” (B12,000/ person), spilling everything from your lunch plans to your favorite swear word. And if you join the 10seat Private Table—which demands an eye-watering minimum spend of B120,000—you might end the night out at a bar with Gaggan himself.

Chiang Mai's Flour Flour bakery has recently ventured into Bangkok with the bomboloni-devoted Cream

by Flour Flour (399/4 Silom Soi 7, 095-695-8594). Don’t expect light and spongy donuts; here, they go in for buttery, fermented dough with a dense texture. Try it out in the best-selling vanilla cream donut (B69), or opt for a set of all six flavors—cinnamon, lemon meringue, kinako soy, salted caramel, vanilla and dirty chocolate—for B350, paired with coffee (from B55).

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Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get 20% discount on food only 1 Nov’19 – 31 Jan’20 Get 10% discount on food only 1 Feb – 31 Dec’20

19 This restaurant cranks the heat with all forms of flame Humans have been cooking with fire for two million years, but we’re not just throwing hunks of meat onto an open flame anymore. Carne (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-163-4971), drawing heavily from Iberian traditions, uses fire in all forms—smoking, flame grilling, charcoal grilling—to cook high-grade cuts of meat and premium local ingredients. It’s not all carne asada (flank steak/B690), either. Think charcoal-grilled bone marrow (B350), octopus adobo with local sea bean escabeche (B390) and grilled line-caught fish from Koh Lanta (B790)—even ember-roasted beetroot salad with a dressing featuring herbs from the garden (B260).

Herringbone 26/1 Sukhumvit soi 53, 02-009-2022. Open 7am-5pm.

BTS Thong Lo Curved steel, dark wood, and floor-to-ceiling windows with lush garden views give this café a distinctly modern feel.

Comforting brunches are joined by lesser-known dishes, like chicken oops (a Myanmar curry), and slow-cooked Indonesian beef rendang on a bed of wild barley and jasmine rice. Drip coffee is available, too, with bean choices from Thailand, and around the world.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get a complimentary Refreshing Drink valued THB 170 when ordering The Beyond Burger 01 Nov ’19 – 31 Jan ’20 Or Get 10% discount on food only 01 Nov ’19 – 31 Oct ’20

11/1/19 8:03 PM

Don Asado

Stryke

NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK

Wander 64 Pan Road, 02-235-6848. Open 11am-midnight.

Tucked halfway between Silom and Sathorn, Wander is a cozy space tailored towards meet-ups with friends and great live music. Food wise, you are looking at multiple styles of Thai fusion, from appetizers to mains. There are tons of options, such as spicy salmon sashimi, larb foie gras, and scallop pasta. Drink options highlight Thai-influenced cocktails – like the “Pick Up Your Spice” with a Sangsom base (Sangsom, peach liquor, homemade cinnamon syrup, and chilli) that you won’t find anywhere else.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only 01 Oct ’19 – 31 Oct ’20

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20 Eat like the gauchos at Yen Akart’s new Argentinian restaurant The open flame factors into yet another one of Bangkok’s newest spots. Don Asado (237, 1 Yen Akat Soi 2, 02-005-6627) is all about fire-cooked meat. In this case, that largely means premium cuts of beef slow-cooked over an Argentinian fire pit located within a spacious, stripped-down townhouse. Signatures include the fork-tender “asado a la cruz,” or four hour slow-cooked short ribs (B1,500/kg), and the caramelized picanha (butt cheek) wagyu (B350/300g). Not into beef? No worries. Opt for the sought-after red Spanish prawns called carabineros (B600/piece), or try the fire-cooked pork pizza (B220).

21 Party in a science 22 Thonglor gets a hip lab at Phra Khanong’s street food injection latest bar Branded as a “street food shelter,” Conveniently located opposite W District, the newly-opened Stryke (1108, 46-47 Sukhumvit Rd., 02381-2855) brings the party with its motto that “creativity is intelligence having fun.” Down a couple of science-inspired Sonic Boom shots (Jager, melon and absinth) followed by a Porn Star (Stoli, vanilla syrup, Campari, pink grapefruit, lychee and lemon topped with edible glitter and silver pearls; B380), and you’ll be in need of some deep-fried avocado (B180), chicken satay (B120) and a cheese burger (B270) to soak it all up. Follow it up with some apple cobbler-flavored gin nitro sorbet, (B230) because why not?

Saphan 55’s (759 Sukhumvit Soi 55) purported aim is to fill the void left by 2017’s Thonglor street food crackdown. It’s doing just that with a hand-picked selection of affordable street food vendors—offering all the classics, from Thai milk tea to kao kha moo, pad krapow, som tam and saep lum saen (from around B50/ dish)—drawing office crowds during lunch hours. Adding to that are trendy-but-affordable vendors like smash burger specialist Easy Burger, and the second-floor Thai restaurant Baan Saphan, featuring a projector screen for sports and live music as late as midnight.

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food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2019

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Who makes the best… bubble tea?

Bubble tea may have hospitalized a Chinese teenager with severe constipation back in June, but our habit for this addictive, high-calorie combo of sweet milk tea and chewy tapioca balls is unkickable.

As ubiquitous—if not more—than coffee, bubble tea (a.k.a. boba tea, pearl milk tea) is nothing new to Thailand, but the Taiwan-hailing beverage has been undergoing something of a revival over the past year.

With more than 30 brands now on the Thai market, we put five of the most popular to the test—all original flavor and all at 100 percent sweetness level. By BK Staff

Mr. Shake

Winner!

Origin: Thailand.

The boba: Soft and chewy all the way, if a little sticky and slightly too big.

The taste: This tea stands out due to its dark color. It tastes like (diluted) Thai tea.

Despite being very sweet, it is oddly satisfying.

Verdict: Dark horse.

Price: B55 Multiple branches. Try Siam Square Soi 7, 02-658-1739.

Open daily 10am-9pm

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Dakasi Tea

Runner Up!

Origin: Taiwan.

The boba: Flawlessly munchy.

The taste: The thick milk in this foamy cup leaves an unappealing residue on the glass, but the creamy taste wins us over. All told, a well-rounded contender.

Verdict: Cream of the crop.

Price: B55 Multiple branches. Try 1/F, Gateway Ekamai, 982/22 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2888

Koi The

Origin: Taiwan.

The boba: Set apart by their brownish-yellow color, these balls may be small but they are plentiful and pleasantly chewy.

The taste: The rich milk taste and smell overpowers the tea, though the consistency is nice and smooth.

Verdict: Smooth operator.

Price: B70 Multiple branches. Try 1/F, Silom Complex, 191 Silom Rd.

Ochaya

Origin: Thailand.

The boba: Chewy and a little tough on the inside. Nothing outstanding.

The taste: Although the tea has a pleasant fragrance, it starts off slightly sweet then quickly falls flat. The milk is a little watery but transports us back to childhood bowls of cereal.

Verdict: Time machine.

Price: B70 Multiple branches at BTS stations. Try BTS Ari and BTS Thong Lo

Kamu

Origin: Thailand.

The boba: Pleasantly chewy, like gummy sweets.

The taste: The tea overpowers the milk and the sweetness leaves us wanting to down a glass of water.

Verdict: Next stop: diabetes.

Price: B50 Multiple branches at BTS stations. Try BTS Chong Nonsi and BTS Phayathai

Cha Bar

Yikes!

Origin: Thailand.

The boba: The stingy amount of “homemade rice berry boba” are tasteless and slightly tough in texture.

The taste: Watery, bland and not nearly sweet enough. We were ashamed to find out this low-calorie tea is created for health-conscious drinkers.

Verdict: What diet?

Price: B75 Multiple branches. Try 1/F, Lido Connect, Rama 1 Rd., 065-937-7144. Open daily 10:30am-9:30pm

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2019

OUR HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE SHINES A SPOTLIGHT ON THE BEST NEW PRODUCTS OF 2019.

MEN’S & WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES, HEALTH AND BEAUTY, GADGETS AND TECH, AND SO MUCH MORE!

SEE MORE FOR BOOKINGS, PLEASE CALL 02-624-9696 OR EMAIL ADVERTISING@ASIA-CITY.CO.TH

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11/1/19 2:21 PM

Stay Tuned!

Coming out February 2020

Plus: More Pages More Listings More Activities More Fun! FOR BOOKINGS, please call 02-624-9696 (Sales dept) or email advertising@asia-city.co.th

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11/1/19 5:17 PM

dining reviews

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Dai Lou HHH 77 Soi Phahonyothin 5, Phahonyothin Rd., 02-103-6566. Open daily 11am-11pm. BB

but you can’t fault the flavor of the ma po tofu (B220), which balances its numbing mala and spicy elements with a splash of rice wine and a cool block of fresh tofu. And while Dai Lou advertises “modern Chinese tapas,” that merely implies that the chef has taken slight creative liberties with large plates made to share. The totally filling, fork-tender steamed grouper (B320)—served atop a bed of crispy wonton skins, alongside a bowl of warm soy sauce—steps just slightly outside the box.

Likewise, the drunken chicken (B180) tweaks the Chinese staple with a trio of house-made sauces and tea leaf-infused rice. Small touches, but the result is a hearty, interesting bite.

All that’s missing is something other than hot tea to wash it down. Right now, only Tsing Tao and basic cocktails are available under the table. Still, these are some of the best Cantonese dishes we’ve had in Bangkok—especially at this price point—and it’s hard not to root for a place with so much time and care clearly pumped into it.

Chinese cuisine is having a moment in Bangkok, with new openings from high-end Nan Bei to biang biang noodle specialist Yoong Chang. Ari’s Dai Lou certainly fits within the gastronomic zeitgeist, although, depending on your geopolitical position, you might want to choose your words wisely when talking about this glossy Hong Kong-inspired restaurant.

Occupying a glass-fronted space that looks like it could have been a fashion designer’s showroom, Dai Lou screams “rich dude’s home.” The decor is all teal and gold, with small touches denoting prestige, like guardian lion statuettes on black marble tables and cutlery coated in prismatic paint. Even the blue mosaic tiles in the garden—a nod to Hong Kong’s MTR stations—give the place a palpable air of material comfort.

But it all feels surreal when you consider how empty the place is. At 7pm on a recent visit, ours was the only table in the room.

That put the wait staff in an awkward position, not sure whether to dote on us or leave us be (ultimately, they did both, just at different points). Maybe that imposing design keeps people away, because the food doesn’t.

Sure, we wish the signature Wan Chai crispy pork belly (B220)—named, like many of the dishes, after Hong Kong landmarks—weren’t so dry and had that wafer-like crunchy skin,

Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000

Order: Drunken chicken (B180), ma po tofu (B220), steamed grouper (B320)

Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

FOOD DRINKS SETTING SERVICE VALUE

bk.asia-city.com/ restaurants

INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume.

Specify which department you are applying for.

Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.

Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

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11/1/19 5:18 PM

food | going global

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Underrated These Bangkok restaurants are giving underrepresented cuisines their due.

By BK Staff

Al-Ferdoss (Yemeni)

Feel Myanmar (Burmese)

Little Bhutan (Bhutanese)

This restaurant may not stand out from the crowd with its plain appearance, but don’t let looks deceive you. It turns out incredibly tasty Yemeni cuisine, including its claim to fame: Bangkok’s biggest naan, a circle of dough pretty much the size of a bicycle wheel. Dishes come in large portions but at relatively cheap prices, and you’ll want to order plenty to help you finish off that flatbread.

Whether it’s the ultra-creamy hummus (B80) or the fahsah—Yemen’s national dish of stewed lamb served sizzling hot—that won’t prove any problem.

Despite the fact that Thailand shares a 2,000-km-long border with Myanmar, you don’t often find Burmese food in Bangkok, especially not outside of a dingy wet market.

Yangon-born Feel Myanmar is out to change that. The canalside restaurant in Pratunam brings classic cuts like mohinga (B60) and lahpet thoke (pickled tea leaf salad, B60 small/B80 large) to the table, alongside heavier dishes like ohn nyot khout swel (B60), the Burmese cousin to khao soi, featuring wheat noodles, curried chicken and vegetables in coconut milk broth.

Never heard of ema datshi? Then head to this humble hole-in-the-wall in Phahurat, which deals in the faraway flavors of the Himalayan hermit kingdom, to discover what you’ve been missing. With a Bhutanese chef and owners, this place is authentic as it gets. The specialties here include momos (B60 vegetable/B70 chicken), spicy chicken jasha paa (B99) and the aforementioned ema datshi—Bhutan’s national dish—a stew packed with cheese curds and fresh chilies.

1/F Schiller’s Inn, 77/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1, 02255-8200. Open daily 9am-midnight

35/2-8 Ratchaprasong Rd., 093-334-4085. Open daily 8am-9pm

436/4 Chak Phet Rd., 091-717-5148. Open daily 10am-10pm

Argo (Georgian)

Jamaican Eatz (Caribbean)

The Moon Under Water (Russian)

This is one time we recommend braving the back sois of Nana. Located on a dead-end alley at the front of Sukhumvit Soi 8, Argo deals in the East-meets-West flavors of the Caucasus. From behind a dining room filled out with faux grapevines and Georgian carpets, the kitchen team cranks out the country’s most famous dishes, including the juicy, soup dumpling-like khinkali (B70/piece) and khachapuri (B250), a veritable cheese boat of pillowy bread packed with homemade sulguni cheese.

Opened by a couple of New Yorkers longing for the Caribbean soul food so common in that other melting pot they call home, this stand brings Jamaican, Latin American and southern US home-cooking to Phra Khanong.

Think Jamaican meat patties (B40/mini, B160/large) or roti stuffed with jerk chicken (B120) with coconut rice and beans (B80) or fried plantains (B40) on the side. Go for one of the plates, and grab a bottle of homemade BBQ sauce to take home (B300).

4/26 Sukhumvit Soi 8, 02-120-4223. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

W District, 1599 Sukhumvit Rd., 095-945-9738.

Open daily 3pm-midnight

Led by chef Alesha Voronin, The Moon Under Water is the first restaurant to bring the cuisine of the vast and harsh Russian expanse to Bangkok.

This second-floor Phra Khanong joint goes beyond borscht (although that’s available, too; B220), offering straightforward Russian classics, from pelmeni (pork and lamb-filled dumplings, B280) to vareniki (potato-filled dumplings, B250) and Brandy-cured Ukrainian sausage served with pickles and mashed potatoes (B390).

Bangkok residents tell us where they go for a taste of home

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SABITH SALMAN, PR AND MARKETING EXECUTIVE, BANGKOK HOSPITAL (BANGLADESH) “When I’m craving Bengali food, I head to Soi 3 for restaurants like Bangla House, Al Hussain and Star Restaurant.”

5 Sukhumvit Soi 48, 065-227-3070. Open Wed-Sun noon-11pm

HENRIK JANNBORG, DIRECTOR OF TIMING AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT, SPORTSTATS ASIA (SWEDEN) “There aren’t many options here. I do go to Sweden once a year and occasionally to Ikea in Bangkok.”

ANNA ZUEVA, TEACHER (RUSSIA) “I like Avra at Phrom Phong—it’s a Georgian restaurant that offers Russian dishes as well.”

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shopping | thai for design

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2019

GRAND OPENING

Check out this year’s Design Excellence Award (DEmark) winners from Thai designers

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1

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Petite rattan stool Brand: Salt and Pepper Studio saltandpepper-studio.com

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Carpenter table and bench

New Faces

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Style Bangkok Fair 2019 showcased up-and-coming Thai designers, alongside some of their most promising new creations.

Here are the five to watch.

By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Brand: Plato platoform.com

Kratib stool and side table Brand: Prempracha Chiang Mai prempracha.com

1 Kanita What: With a love of Thai desserts and an eye for design, Kanita Kaniyomwakin creatively blends classic banana leaf-wrap Thai dessert packaging with leather. The result? Killer artisan leather goods— large and small—like the Khanom Tien and Khanom Sai Sai coin wallets, Khao Tom Mad key purse and Khanom Jak stationery bag. And since it’s November, check out the Wan-Phen handbag collection inspired by the krathong—not only a cultural classic, but also sophisticated enough to wear dayto-night. The Wan-Phen belt bag is also super chic.

Prices: B520 for Khanom Sai Sai coin wallet, up to B7,500 for the Wan-Phen clutch.

Available at BACC Shop, 5/F, Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 086-797-7148. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. fb.com/KanitaLeather

2 Wax Valley Candle Co. What: This aromatic brand wants you to embrace “hygge”—the Danish concept of finding happiness in comfort and coziness—through their artisinal scented soy candles. The brand offers a wide range of scents including “Tender” cherry and vanilla; “Roaster” bittersweet cocoa and coffee; and “Woodland,” which mixes fresh eucalyptus with earthy sandalwood. Other innovative aromas include “Bangkok,” an uplifting and calming blend of lavender and cinnamon; and “Chok Dee,” which blends citrus orange with rosemary. Miss the beach? Light up “Pattaya” and be enveloped by the sweet scents of coconut and fresh lime.

Prices: From B280 for small travel tins; up to B480 for glass jars.

Available at waxvalleycandleco.com

3 Vassana What: This lifestyle brand preserves and reinterprets Thai craftsmanship through creativity and unique designs. It was founded by Vassana Saima, assistant professor at the Faculty of Fine Arts and Architecture at Rajamangala University of Technology Lanna in Chiang Mai. By working with local basket weaving communities there, she breathed new life into traditional wickerwork and bamboo crafts—producing exquisite hand woven Thai ornaments like handbags, lamps, phuang malai (floral garlands) and intricate home decor pieces. Saima’s “Bird Nest” bamboo lamp won her first prize at the Innovative Craft Award held by The Support Arts and Craft International Centre (SACICT; 2012).

Prices: B500 for floral garlands and B380 for small handbags. We say channel your inner ‘70s Jane Birkin and get the basket bag (B950).

Available to order at Line: 081-764-9433 or by email: vassana007@gmail.com

4 Coco Sui What: Sanon Piumsiam, owner and designer, brings his passion for art, illustration and storytelling to everyday items, creating a wide range of fashionable pieces and accessories to brighten your day. Expect jackets, dresses, button-down shirts, backpacks, carpets, dishes, postcards, skateboard decks and more—all with fun, pop arty illustrations. His collection built on recycled rice bags is definitely a highlight, with style variations ranging from hip, everyday totes to cute, compact bags you can’t really fit anything in but are still so chic you’ll want them for the ‘gram. We also have our eyes on the framed

illustrations—the ones of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej are so tastefully done, we want to have one on our wall.

Prices: B200 for the small recycled rice bags; B1,200 for button-down shirts; B1,400 for hoodies.

Available at The Selected, 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 084-526-1560. Open daily 10am10pm. fb.com/cocosui.tees

5 Lively Ware What: These cute, handcrafted stoneware pieces are made by ceramists Kitt Kullayanapong and Napapatch “Paint” Sethawong, who specialize in Chinese blue-and-white porcelain homewares with modern twists. The products include kitchenware and accessories, crockery, plates, coffee cups, vases, pens and earrings. Each piece is hand-painted with cobalt oxide, before being glazed and fired in a kiln for at least 16 hours.

The duo’s bestselling pieces are their “Pinto”— creative takes on the traditional Thai lunch box (or tiffin carrier) made from baked clay with oak handles. All products are made-to-order and take about three-to-four weeks to complete.

Prices: B1,700 for Pinto lunch boxes; B2,000 for plate sets; B13,000 for a bathroom sink.

Beam chair Brand: Hygge hoog-design.com

Klong side table Brand: +Sense fb.com/PlusSense

Available at Iconcraft, 4-5/F, IconSiam, Charoen Nakorn Soi 5, 098-698-2641. Open daily 10am10pm. fb.com/livelyware

Chang stool Brand: Mobella mobella.co.th

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neighborhood | ari

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The Key Room No. 72

Bar Storia del Caffe

Casa Lapin

Frank Mansion

Gump’s

Arite High-end residences, happening bars, awesome restaurants and hip coffee shops make the peaceful leafy sois of Ari the perfect place to call home. Here’s what life is like in Bangkok’s ‘it’ neighborhood. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Cast Iron Burgerhaus

Coffee & Breakfast From French toast (B190) at homey-industrial Casa Lapin (Noble Reform, Phahonyothin Soi 5, 02-116-3308) to breakfast omelets (B250) at Bar Storia del Caffe (B250; 13 Ari Soi 4 Nua, 02-057-9448), mornings in Ari are made for hip cafes. Grab an iced caramel macchiato (B118) and spinach-cheese bake (B138) at rustic Porcupine Cafe (Ari Soi 4 Nua, 02-126-7811), or seek out top quality beans from local roasters like Ceresia and Brave, served alongside scrambled eggs and smoked salmon on toast (B140) at Common Room x Ari (Phahonyothin Soi 5, 062416-7746). Drip-coffee specialist Some Time Blue (Phahonyothin Soi 2, 082-414-0099) whips up award-winning coffee (B150) amid classic Victorian furnishings.

Hit up Landhaus Bakery (Ari Soi 1, 02-165-0322) for freshly baked braided poppy bread (B25), jamon

serrano ham and pepper open sandwiches (B190) and frothy cappuccinos (B70).

Lunch & Dinner Besides a slew of delicious street eats, classics like Salt (Ari Soi 4, 02-619-6886) and Pladib (Ari Samphan Soi 7, 02-279-8185) serve East-meets-West fusion food to the young and hip in raw, modernist settings. Burger lovers are spoiled for choice, from Cast Iron Burgerhaus’s (Noble Reform, Phahonyothin Soi 5, 062-9200300) smoky barbecue burger (B280), to Paper Butter’s (The Yard Hostel, Phahonyothin Soi 5, 081-649-1227) signature Chiang Mai spicy burger (pork B160/ beef B190). For some diversity, order Korean street food at Joha (111/1 Phahonyothin Soi 7, 083177-5533) or head to Japanese izakaya Hanazen (42 Ari Soi 5, 02-619-7044). For killer Thai food, get the gaeng om (B110) at Phed Phed Cafe (Phahonyothin Soi 8,

Ong Tong Khaosoi

098-263-5715); the kai pa loh ka moo (braised pork leg and eggs with rice; B280) at Kua Kling Pak Sod (24/1 Phahonyothin Soi 5, 02-617-2553); the stir-fried khao soi with sai oua at Ong Tong Khaosoi (21 Phahonyothin Soi 7, 02-003-5254); and solid Isaan bites at Shambala Somtam (Phahonyothin Soi 7).

Drinks Dramatic speakeasy The Key Room No. 72 (G/F, Josh Hotel, 19/2 Ari Soi 4 Nua, 02-102-4999) shakes up spirit-forward concoctions (B420 for Sazerac) and joins Frank Mansion (9/2 Ari Soi 1, 02-048-3225) as one of the neighborhood’s few proper cocktail bars. Continue bar-hopping in Ari Soi 4 at neon-drenched Feeling Bar (082-425-1515), or Hawaiian-themed Pakalolo (02-075-0939). Craft beer lovers can head to O’Glee (Ari Soi 1, 02-619-5354), Mikkeller Ari (Ari Samphan Soi 1, 02-101-4962), or

Taproom Ari (Phahonyothin Soi 7, 087-460-2626).

Visit Soak up some art at Numthong Gallery (72/3 Ari Soi 5 Nua, 02617-2794). Next, shop at multilabel stores Gloc (1/8 Ari Soi 2, 084-754-4747) and Hide.Selected (42 Ari Soi 5, 064-669-6935), or get inked at the neighborhood’s newest spot Madgrey Tattoo Studio (3/F, Ari Story Hostel, Ari Soi 1, 090-992-8089). Stay tuned for Gump’s Ari Community Space— expected to open by the end of the year on Ari Soi 4 Nua.

Accommodation Noble Reform (2/21 Phahonyothin Soi 7, 02-117-2571) is conveniently located adjacent the BTS, and offers 47-sq-meter one bedroom units from B25,000/month.

The 30-floor Centric Ari Station (27 Ari Soi 1, 02-270-5544) offers 516 units from B17,000/month.

BK ASKS

What do you love most about Ari?

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PATRICK STALL, CO-FOUNDER OF PAPER BUTTER “Its peaceful community vibe— everybody here is so friendly. It also has the right balance of houses, shops and offices.”

PATSARALAK SIRIPAWEENNAKORN, FOUNDER OF MADGREY TATTOO STUDIO “Ari has it all—from coffee shops and multi-label stores to co-working spaces, restaurants and bars. You can basically spend a whole day here.”

SAM SHERWOOD-HALE, EDITOR OF RAIL PROFESSIONAL ASIA PACIFIC, ARI RESIDENT “Beneath its veneer of traditional Bangkok, Ari hides an inner world of modern art, tech startups, artisanal restaurants and lazy, winding streets. It’s everything Bangkok should aspire to be.”

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DISCOVER BANGKOK’S BEST BARS FOR LESS!

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*All prices are exclusive of a 10% booking fee and 7% VAT

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