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BK MAGAZINE NO. 731 FRIDAY, MARCH 23, 2018. www.bkmagazine.com
The winners and losers of Top Tables 2018
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THE FINE DINING
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WATERS
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page 3 6 cover story
Changes Up Top
What We’ve Learned
4 upfront
8 escapes
Young Blood
New in Hua Hin
11 avenue
13 bites
InstaSwimwear
Naples vs New York
16 bites
17 BK Now
Restaurant Reviews
Main Events
Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Subeditor Mai Nardone Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Assistant Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Junior Writers Kankanok Wichiantanon, Neon Boonyadhammakul Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Video Content Manager Chanon Wongsatayanont Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Pattanagorn Adirekkiat
Where to find us!
The Asia City Media Group
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri
Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Contributors Kathy MacLeod
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Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
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That Tilda Swinton will star in Apichatpong Weerasethakul’s next film Memoria will mark the Palme d’Or-winning director’s first film shot outside Thailand, with 2019 production planned for the jungles of Colombia. And in more positive news, The Independent reports that British actress Tilda Swinton (the I Am Love and Orlando star, and all-round marker of good taste) is on board. The actor and director have apparently been in talks for over a decade about making a film together. That James Blunt in Bangkok disappeared off the face of the internet Eight months after the “You’re Beautiful” singer’s concert was announced for Royal Paragon Hall on Mar 27, it completely vanished from the web. Bangkokians were left mystified when tickets disappeared from Thaiticketmajor and no word was posted on Blunt’s website. Finally, the singer broke radio silence on Mar 19 and promised all ticket purchasers a full refund. Weird. That Aussie meat pies and sausage rolls have arrived on Sukhumvit Soi 49 Conkey’s Bakery is making moves. The farmers’ market favorite run by Australian Michael Conkey is expanding from its hidden Ekkamai enclave (a popular picnic spot) with a petite counter at 49 Terrace community mall. Soon, too, you’ll be able to take your croissant and coffee on the outdoor terrace. That Uniqlo’s first roadside store in Southeast Asia is here Good news for budget hipsters in eastern Bangkok: Japanese clothing brand Uniqlo is opening its first standalone store in Thailand this Mar 23 on Patthanakan Soi 58. Uniqlo already has a few roadside stores in the Japanese cities of Owariasahi, Kashiba and Kasugai, but this will count as the first outside a mall in Southeast Asia. That Prin Polsuk has quit Nahm This is great news for the soon-to-open Edition hotel at MahaNakhon, who’ve snagged the head man from Bangkok’s most-famous Thai restaurant (David Thompson long ago charged Prin with running the kitchen). We’re not sure what exactly he has in store—the whole thing’s being kept seriously under wraps—but we’d hazard a guess at authentic Thai flavors that don’t mess around with tradition.
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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@bkmagazine BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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upfront HOT OR NOT
Hot: Tofu
Not: Fish
Gaggan’s back, and he’s brought reinforcements from Japan. The three-time winner of Asia’s 50 Best has opened an omakase restaurant in Chong Nonsi with a twist: every course is about tofu made by a family in Fukuoka with a generations-old history with the stuff. Meanwhile, sushi omakase places have dropped like flies from Top Tables 2018 (see page 6). R ichard Barrow
Hot: Thai police
Not: Interpol
INTERVIEW
If you listen to Pol. Col. Kritsana Pattanacharoen, you’ll know that Thai police have worn themselves to the bone in their tireless effort to track down Red Bull heir Boss Yoovidhya and bring him to justice—no thanks to Interpol, whose mysterious removal of Boss’s red notice from online has nothing to do with local law enforcement (again, Pol. Col. Kritsana). We’ve said it before but we’ll say it again: Hurray the boys in brown! Without you, this city’s billionaires would be able to do whatever they wanted. leemapu.blogspot.com/2013/ 01/blog-post_7456.html
Hot: Cultured politics
Not: Color politics
Bangkok’s newest political party launched last week, and it did so in a way BK can approve of: over coffee in a Charoenkrung warehouse renovated by Duangrit— none of that rowdy, countryside shouting. This has made us want to start our own party. It’s called the BK Forward Party. Some of our policies include: government-subsidized Sloane sausages for the disadvantaged, and a ban on calling any cocktail a Manhattan if it’s not mixed with American rye whiskey.
Hot: Pizzas
Not: Burgers
Did you spend two hours waiting in line for the In-N-Out pop-up only to discover that, yes, it does taste just like McDonald’s? We’re right with you. And while we love a good fast-food franchise from abroad (Chipotle! Won’t someone bring us Chipotle?), we can be satisfied that the local pizza scene is bringing it’s A-game. Check out page 13 to see where.
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
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Pongcharn “Top” Russell, 27, is the head chef at Freebird and the winner of Best Young Chef in Top Tables 2018. Adopted at the age of two by a British father and Thai mother, Top lived and worked in the UK for 12 years, where he learned his trade in the London Michelin-starred kitchens of Alexis Gauthier, Jun Tanaka and Pierre Gagnaire. Favorite restaurant in town right now? Gaa, hands down: a talented chef leading a passionate group of people who are at the beginning of their culinary journey. Garima [Arora] is exploring something that needs to be explored: local ingredients but in a different light, changing the direction of flavor. One of the reasons I moved back was to do that. I really appreciate what she is doing. Some one should have explored it a long time ago. Bangkok dining fad that annoys you most? Well, it doesn’t annoy me but the one that took me by surprise was tomahawk. I had no idea before coming here what a big deal it was. It’s not a thing in other cities from my experience, but in Bangkok people go crazy for tomahawks. I’m not saying it’s bad, I just didn’t expect it. Most inspiring meal you’ve ever had? The Fat Duck in 2006. It was just perfection: 20-odd something courses, a few I didn’t a personally prefer but the execution of everything was as perfect as perfect can be. Almost robotic. Every waiter knew everything, and there were 40-60 components
to every dish. The service was on another level, and the food more pristine than you can imagine a human creating. Biggest thing holding back Bangkok dining culture? I don’t know why people complain about working in Bangkok. This is the easiest kitchen I’ve seen run! It might be down to my amazing staff. I’ve heard nightmare stories. Chefs complain about locals not being commited, not showing up to work. I was told not to expect what I was used to in London and Singapore. I have eight staff who’ve been there from day one. This is the best team. Maybe not the most skillful or knowledgeable but they haven’t had the platform. Chefing here is still behind, though it turned a corner 2-3 years ago. Five years ago, if you were an upcoming young chef in Thailand where would you go to learn things? And I don’t mean people whose parents can fly them to Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. For the general public wanting to chef there was no platform. An upcoming Bangkok restaurant you’re excited about? There’s a place ready to open soon that’s gonna be a gamechanger. Sorry, I can’t tell you the name, but
it’s an American, big, with the most amazing resume. Scariest thing that’s ever happened during service? The electricity going off during a wedding. It was back in England, cooking for 120 people and the electricity goes. Then the backup doesn’t work. The bride’s father came through to the kitchen and he was not happy but there was nothing we could do. In the end we got something out since there was a lot pre-cooked, but we had to serve it cold. Tastiest meal you’ve had in Bangkok this month? Sri Trat last night. Tastiest meal you’ve had in Bangkok this year? A three-Michelin-star pop-up in Le Normandie from a German chef, Thomas Buhner. Really amazing. A young chef in Bangkok to watch? Charlie Jones, the new guy at Quince. He is going to make Quince the best it has been. We’re childhood friends and grew up together. A Bangkok restaurant that you think is overrated? Gaggan. I’m sure that’s not original but yeah. Oliver Irvine
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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THE VOTES ARE IN
BK Magazine’s Top Tables 2018 is officially out with this issue. But we’ve got more for you to digest than just dinners at Bangkok’s 100 best restaurants. Here, we break down the trends, the upsets, the winners and the losers of this year’s guide. Tuck in! By BK Staff
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Top Climbers We’re calling 2018 the year of Thai food, and nowhere is that better illustrated than in this year’s Top 30, where plenty of local-flavor specialists climbed the ranks. 80/20 (1052-1054 Charoenkrung Soi 26, 099-118-2200) saw the biggest ratings jump, from 15th last year up to fifth spot this year—just one behind Gaggan! Paste (120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313) also saw its ranking rise, while Isaan offcuts specialist Rarb (49 Phra Athit Rd., 081406-3773) and chef’s-tablemeets-cooking-school Bangkok Bold (503 Phra Sumen Rd., 098-829-4310) both also broke the Top 30 for the first time. But it wasn’t all about Thai restaurants. Suhring (10 Yen Akat Soi 3, 02-287-1799) only cemented its place at the top this year, winning over the panel with double the number of points from its debut year. And of course, there was this year’s highest debut, Gaa (68/4 Soi Lang Suan, 091-4192424), whose entry at no. 14 means that three restaurants in the Top 10 come with backing from His Royal Foodie Excellence Gaggan Anand. We’re not worthy.
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Paste
Top Newbies
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One of the most exciting bits of making Top Tables every year is seeing which new places get the nod. This year, 14 old favorites got ousted for this lot, whose offerings range from nose-to-tail Isaan to handmade pastas. Which of your top new restaurants did we miss? Email editorial@asia-city.co.th.
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Appia
Top Losers Weirdly for a city so obsessed with Japanese cuisine, the land of the rising sun was this year’s biggest casualty, with nine Nippon all-stars falling by the wayside (sorry, Misaki [G/F, Rain Hill, 841/11 Sukhumvit Rd, 02 258 1783], Yuutaro [64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02 662 6070]: it’s nothing personal). There were 25 names that dropped out altogether in 2018. While we’re not going to lose any tears for the loss of Ari’s Salt (36/2 Phahon Yothin Soi 7 [Ari], 02-619-6886) or Prime at Millennium Hilton (123 Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-442-2000), we do think Tempura Kanda’s (1/F, No. 88 Mall, 88 Thonglor Soi 5, 095-720-0557) cutlets should have stayed. This year also marked some huge changes up top, with some of Bangkok’s culinary big guns seeing their rating slip. For the first time since it opened, Supanniga (160/11 Soi Thonglor, 02-714-7508) didn’t make Top 30—yet more proof that competition for Thai restaurants is getting seriously fierce. And then there’s Appia (20/4 Soi Sukhumvit 31, 02-261-2056), which this year drops out of the Top 10 for the first time since it brought pork roasts and pasta to Sukhumvit five years ago. And on the subject of Italians, Zanotti (1/F, Saladaeng Colonnade, 21/2, Silom Rd., 02-636-0002), who made 17th place last year, failed to make this year’s guide at all.
TOP 30!
100 Mahaseth
Nose-to-tail dining is back with big, bold Isaan flavors. 100 Mahaset Rd., 02-235-0023
Arroz
Sensational seafood paellas and a deliciously homey, Med-inspired dining room. 112 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-258-7696
HIGHEST ENTRY!
Birds
Simply Bangkok’s best roast chicken (with some fine potatoes, too). Nang Linchi Soi Amon, 095-594-6675
Canvas
Swa n k y s u r ro u n d ings, (seriously) small plates, and a polished-but-relaxed vibe. 113/9 -10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099614-1158
Jua
Gaa
672/49 Charoenkrung 28, 061-558-7689
68/3 Soi Lang Suan, 091-419-2424
Charcoal-grilled Japanese bar bites in an effortlessly cool part of town.
Asia-meets-new-Nordic tasting menus from Gaggan’s former sous chef.
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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How is
Top Tables Made?
Top Omissions We’ll be the first to admit that the Top Tables voting system isn’t perfect (which restaurant awards is?), and every year there are a few venues that have us crying out, “Where are they?!” Top Tables 2018 is no exception. How could our panel have overlooked that duck dish at Aldo's, or the wonderfully succulent charcoal-grilled chicken of Tori Tama? Here are all the places that didn’t make the cut but should have!
Aldo’s
There was a time when foodie circles whispered Herve Frerard’s name in hushed awe. His former restaurant Le Beaulieu was Top Tables’ no. 1 entry in 2014. Today, he’s still making arguably Bangkok’s most decadently rich and flavor-packed French sauces at Aldo’s, together with old Le Beaulieu bistro classics like coq au vin.
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7/F, The Ascott Sathorn Bangkok, 187 Sathorn Rd., 02-676-6969
La Dotta
Pasta and more pasta in a popping, aquamarine environment. 161/6 Thonglor Soi 9, 02-392-8688
1 2 Tori Tama
Sushi Ichizu
Can anyone say “saturated market”? With so many omakase restaurants in Bangkok nowadays, all charging over B5,000 a head and all touting fish straight from Japan, it’s little wonder so many fell off the list. Still, we reckon this new contender should be considered in the sushi premiership. Sukhumvit Soi 39, New Petchaburi Rd., 065-738-9999
Tori Tama
While sushi might be well represented, the guide made space for just one yakitori specialist this year: long-timer Jidori ya Ken. Sadly, we feel that Jidori’s glory days are behind it. Anyone who’s tried Tori Tama’s juicy offerings would surely also agree.
Le Dalat might have the swagger, but this Vietnamese restaurant has the flavor. What the tucked-away Vietnamese & More lacks in polish it makes up for in a succulent beef brisket banh mi and rare specialities like dill and turmeric laden fried tilapia.
Park Lane, 18 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-382-0141
Rompo Mansion, 99/9-11 Thang Rotfai Khao-Saipaknam Rd., 02-671-9955
Top Neighborhoods
Penthouse Bar + Grill
26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3814
34-36/F, Park Hyatt, 88 Wireless Rd., 02-0121234
Low-and-slow barbecue with a flamboyant French edge.
Prime cuts in a bigballed hotel steak joint.
Phed Phed
Bangkok’s best somtam according to the class of Bangkokian who eat at hipster Ari joints. Phahon Yothin Soi 8, 097- 918-1175, 098263-5715
In January, BK Magazine creates a shortlist of some 200 restaurants: • Last year’s Top Tables restaurants • Major new openings • Select advertisers
BK then selects 30 panelists: • 4 BK food writers and editors • 26 foodies we know to eat out a lot. Some of them may be involved in restaurants (more on that later). The panelists are given the shortlist. For each restaurant, they choose: • Keep it. • Cut it. • I don’t know. We then keep only the places with the best Yes:No ratios. HOW DO YOU SELECT THE TOP 30?
Each panelist selects their top 10 restaurants. Every restaurant they rank #1 gets 20 points, down to 11 points for a #10 position. (So if a restaurant gets picked in two lists as #10, that’s better than getting picked by only one judge as #1.) We tally all that and we get the Top 30 list. We always ignore any and all votes cast for venues that panelists are involved with. IS YOUR LIST OF PANELISTS PUBLIC?
The undisputed daddy of fine-dining neighborhoods is Sathorn-Silom, home to over one-quarter of the guide’s venues. However, if you go by the neighborhood with the most Top Tables per square kilometer, then it’s the area surrounding Phrom Phong station (Sukhumvit Soi 31-49) with 13 Top Tables. Charoenkrung is another winner of this year’s guide, with its own dedicated section (together with Charoen Nakhon) for the first time. Places like Jua, 80/20 and 100 Mahaseth have added a young streak to the established hotel haunts.
Le Cochon Blanc
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Vietnamese & More
BK remains Bangkok’s only magazine that conducts independent, anonymous food reviews. Every year, we also put together a panel of 30 Bangkok-based foodies to select the city’s top 100 restaurants. Here’s how the process works.
No. We don’t particularly want them getting courted by award-savvy PRs. DO ADVERTISERS GET PREFERENTIAL TREATMENT?
Beyond the fact that they’re included in the shortlist, no. The panelists vote on the Official Selection and the Top 30 and we keep only the top ranked places.
Sri Trat
Eastern Thai flavors in an upmarket Sukhumvit location. 90 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-088-0968
Sushi Zo
Sushi from L.A. with a Michelin star back home and the guts to stray from Edo tradition. G/F, Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8490
Tonkin Annam Via Maris Vietnamese dishes from the guy who brought Bangkok the Kinfolk Table series.
Mediterranean-meetsMoroccan flavors in one half of the old Vesper.
69 Maharaj Rd., 093469-2969
Convent Rd., 02-2365558
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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escapes
Gravity Sky Bar
Chocolate Box
HUA HIN
The Newbies
All the new reasons to return to Hua Hin this Songkran. By Kankanok Wichiantanon Holiday Inn Vana Nava Hua Hin
EAT
bread (B195) and homemade pesto spaghetti with plump sauteed prawns (B225).
Coral Vine Bar & Restaurant
Getting good seafood in Hua Hin isn't as easy as it once was. We recommend driving further along the coast to this spot (www.fb.com/coralvinehuahin), just north of the main town and staking out its own stretch of tranquil waterfront. The restaurant, which belongs to the Coral Tree Villa resort, serves up the day’s catch in dishes like pasta with smoked chili cream and sweet crab meat (B350) or sunflower sprout somtam that’s topped with fresh prawns (B230). The place has a lofty industrial look, but the decor pales beside the natural beauty on display. Come for a refreshing, sundown gin and tonic (B280), here made with a Thai twist using chili and cilantro.
Der
Into the fray of Thai cuisine at Seenspace (www.seenspace.com/ huahin) comes this bistro specializing in Isaan fare. The venue’s put together of stark monochrome and concrete, with large black-framed windows. The kitchen, too, is glassed-in, meaning you can watch the chef bring dishes from the heart of Isaan to life. Not to be missed are the tam lao kung muak yad sai (grilled shrimp and stuffed squid dressed in somtam sauce with dill, B190) and suup nhor mhai (spicy bamboo shoot salad, B70), which is salty and tangy—practically made for dipping sticky rice.
Sundance Lounge
This gloriously sun-dappled glasshouse at Seenspace (Hua Hin Soi 35, 089-182-1088) cuts a refined yet relaxed look: giltedged tables, deep cream couches and checkered-tiles. Tea and sweets are the order of the day. Choose your tea by nose: the tray of samples is presented to you to sniff from—but pick wisely, as each pot of tea (B220) comes with a tarot card reading of your future. Try the passion fruit tea (B170), which is tangy and includes the fruit’s crunchy seeds. The kitchen rolls out familiar comfort dishes like eggs Benedict on soft French
DRINK
Gravity Sky Bar
Novotel Hua Hin’s (novotelhuahin.com) displaced snooty rooftop culture with street style. Upending the norms are two Thai artists: graffitist Kittipong Kamsart, whose work has graced the front of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, and muralist Rukkit Kuanha-wate, who has here made his mark with a blue whale in his iconic, colorful and geometric style. The service has stayed classy, though, as has the drinks menu, which includes a flight of sensory cocktails that will have you questioning whether you’re a synesthete. Tired of the murals? There’s always the 360-degree view.
Vana Nava Sky Bar
With the just-opened Vana Nava Sky Bar on the 27th floor of Holiday Inn Hua Hin, Asia’s hotshot bar designer Ashley Sutton eschews his extravagant steampunkery for classic marble and lots of glass, including in the deck that overlooks a water park. There’s still some Jules Verne to the design, though, with brassy seashell lattices and seating upholstered in grey and copper colors. Behind the creative cocktail menu is renowned “mixsultant” and frequent Sutton-collaborator Joseph Boroski. Need something to go with all the eye candy? The tapas-style menu boasts bar grub with a Thai/Japanese/Mediterranean palate.
SLEEP
Chocolate Box
We don’t blame you for wanting to stay at Hua Hin’s Seenspace mall all night. And with their new boutique hotel, Chocolate Box (www.enjoychocolatebox.com), you can. Inspired by that old Forrest Gump maxim which will not be repeated here, the hotel's 23 rooms come in three flavors: White Chocolate (for two,
Sundance
B5,700), Milk Chocolate (for four, B7,800) and Dark Chocolate (for six, B9,900) in a hierarchy that proves what we’ve always known: dark chocolate reigns supreme. Size aside, the rooms are fashioned from the same mold, each decorated in a modern, minimalist style and every shade of gray for a soothing vibe. The rate includes a la carte breakfast that’s served from 7am-5pm. Is there chocolate involved? Maybe.
Avani Hua Hin
Avani Hua Hin (www.minorhotels.com/en/avani/hua-hin), formerly Ananda Hua Hin Resort & Spa, occupies a quiet stretch of beach. The 185 rooms/suites and 11 villas toe the line between modernist and traditional, contrasting square architecture with Thai textures. Rates start at B3,600/night, but you'll want to shell out at least B13,000 for a one-bedroom villa with plunge pool. Active vacationers can check the array of watersports on offer. The Hammam spa room has a Turkish steam bath, which you can follow up with a massage (B1,500). Come evening, find your way to the resort’s jazz lounge for mellow blues with cocktails and mezze plates.
Holiday Inn Vana Nava Hua Hin
What’s better than a water park? A water park on your doorstep. Holiday Inn has entered the playcation game with their new branch inside Vana Nava Hua Hin Water Park (032-809-999, goo. gl/9camQz). Wake up with a ride on Abyss (Thailand’s largest water slide) or float down Lazy River with this hotel’s unlimited access to the water park. The 300-room, family-friendly resort is just 15 minutes from downtown Hua Hin. For those looking for a break after a day on the slides, there’s a resort spa, a 26th-floor pool bar and a rooftop bar with a glass-bottomed deck. The beach is also within reach—just a 10-minute walk or a short ride on the free shuttle. Prices are B2,690/night.
INTERNATIONAL These Bangkok restaurants are taking over the world
Greyhound London
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QUINCE SAIGON
GREYHOUND LONDON
BAAN YING SINGAPORE
CHA TRA MUE
Quince, our city’s reliable provider of organically-sourced pan-European food, celebrates its five-year anniversary with a new restaurant in Saigon. Expect the winning combination of rustic charm, biodynamic wine and grilled meats.
The brand marks its entry into Europe with a taste of Thonglor in the upmarket Fitzrovia district. Londoners, get ready to tuck into Bangkok fusion favorites like seafood with holy basil pasta and lod chong panna cotta.
You might know this as a casual Thai bistro, but Bangkok’s Baan Ying goes hi-so with its move to Singapore, arriving as an artfully modern space dishing out Thai comfort food with the occasional fusion twist.
When the brand behind Thailand’s national drink isn’t whipping the local population into a frothy frenzy, it’s sending its sweet stuff abroad. Following the success of over a dozen branches in Malaysia, Cha Tra Mue now has a glossy cafe in South Korea.
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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ESCAPE ROUTES By Kankanok Wichiantanon
KANCHANABURI
Green Bites
Set across five spruced-up barns looking out over wide, green expanses, The Village Farm To Cafe (www.fb.com/TheVillageFarmToCafe) has Kanchanaburi day-trippers in a spin. Inside is just as lush as the mountainous surrounds, with dangling ferns, cacti and dried flowers adding a pop of color alongside Brooklyn-evoking red bricks. The kitchen spotlights locally sourced ingredients in photogenic forms like a turtle-shaped bun that comes with a fresh melon wedge and melon soft-serve (B185). Before heading back to Bangkok, chow down on the barbecue ribs that have been marinated and steamed for over 48 hours, served with a huge salad portion, French fries and garlic bread (B650).
KRABI
Cabana Style Things don’t move quite as fast in Krabi as in other Thai beach destinations. The first worthwhile resort opening in what seems like forever is Panan Krabi (www.panankrabiresort.com), which adds cabana-inspired design touches like leafy wallpaper, airy open spaces and local handicraft motifs to crisp and clean industrial furnishings. At 199 rooms and suites, and with a big pool running down the center, this is no beach shack, though. Expect to shell out about B3,324/night for a superior cliff view room. Although the resort’s not beachfront, Ao Nang’s turquoise waters, pot-bellied tourists and colorful drinking holes are mere minutes’ walk away.
Vanilla Sky Bar & Gastro Pub
PHUKET
To the Roof Given a streamlined makeover and its own dedicated kitchen, Vanilla Sky Bar & Gastro Pub (www.capesienna.com) makes a case for Phuket’s
best new sundowner spot. Perched atop Cape Siena Hotel on the clifftop of Nakalay Bay, the bar’s sweeping views over Kamala Beach are best enjoyed in the pinkish-purplish light of dusk, which also happens to be happy hour (30-percent off drinks, 5-6pm). To go with, there’s a new menu that’s big on seafood, whether pub grub (fish and chips, B890) or fancy imported ingredients (roasted Maine lobster, B990). Head for the terrace—faux grass and bean bags at one end, lounge seating the other—where guest DJs set the sultry mood. Make it a night of rooftop-hopping by popping over to The Nai Harn’s nearby sky sushi and sashimi bar.
TOUR
Silk Road The ultra-luxury, chartered-jet adventures of Aman Resorts (aman.com) return with a trip spanning China, Bhutan, India and Sri Lanka. If there’s a theme to this adventure, it’s old world Asia, each Aman Resort destination a superb study in historical restoration. The trip begins in Shanghai on Oct 7 and finishes in Tangalle, Sri Lanka, on Oct 23. In between, expect to find yourself climbing the monasteries in cliffside Tiger's Nest, strolling the bustling streets of the pink city of Jaipur, cruising the Mansarovar Lake in Rajasthan, roaming the Portuguese-Dutch-British heritage port city of Galle before just beaching out in Tangalle. History doesn’t come cheap at Aman’s prices, the per-person cost here approximately B2.24 million.
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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avenue SHOP
Come Again The second coming of Swedish furniture (and everything else, really) behemoth Ikea has opened in Bangkok. If you thought the Bangna location was a bitch, wait until you encounter Nonthaburi’s, which sits about 7km west of anything we’ve covered before. Still, this is Southeast Asia’s largest Ikea store, with an unfathomable 41 showrooms and three levels that are sure to keep you maze-running for hours. Shopping fatigue is, of course, why they introduced the canteen, and this one’s promising a “branch exclusive” menu— we’re hoping soft-serve specials, not more meatballs. 109 Rattanathibet Soi 17/9 (Mu Bang Yai Center), 02-708-7999. Open Mon-Thu 10am-9pm; Fri-Sun 10am-10pm. MRT Bang Yai
NEW COLLECTION
WELLNESS
FASHION
And One
Sleepy Head
Pumped Up Kicks
Men’s streetwear devotees have probably been eyeing Maison Kitsune’s NBA capsule collection since the Parisian brand announced its collaboration with the National Basketball Association. The wait’s over: Siwilai multilabel store now has the T-shirts, jackets, hoodies, track pants and jerseys emblazoned with bold, monotone designs and the emblems of the Bulls and the Knicks. Not a fan of basketball? Try Kitsune’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection, which has a whimsical, summery theme: short sleeve pullover with red sunset prints (B11,900) and a red-and-white striped chambray shirt with a badge declaring: “Welcome to Romance.” Available at 5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5631. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Ploen Chit
Pamper yourself after a long day cloistered in office cubicles with Nap Sleep Salon’s second branch on Sathorn, called Nap Elite. For those coming down from a tough week, try the Nap Elite Signature (B900), consisting of one hour’s worth of head therapy and head massage with shampoo and treatment, followed by a half-hour blow dry. When you need a dose of heavy-duty relaxation, upgrade to a two-hour Elite Course (B4,500), including a balancing scalp treatment, onehour head therapy and head massage, 20 minutes of hand and arm relief and the same blow dry routine. 1/F, Mobicom 3 Bldg., Narathiwas Soi 7, 062-692-4493. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-8:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
Celebrate summer like you’re strutting among Parisians with the new shoe collection by French footwear and accessories brand Andre. Let no summer look go unmatched with the wide selection of styles: derby shoes, sandals, sneakers, ballerinas and pumps. A mid-platform is introduced to the sandal (B1,580) and the derby (B1,820) to add an elegant touch, while the sneakers (starting from B1,173) come with quirky and punchy patterns that will spruce up any outfit. Beige, brunette, black, gold, as well as glitter dominate the collection. Available at CC Shop, 1/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-746-5057. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam
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BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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FASHION
TREND
Beach Ready Strut through summer with these Instagram swimwear boutiques. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
Get waisted with this season’s hottest accessory: the bum bag 4
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Boyy, B22,500 Boyy Village, G/F, Gaysorn Village, Phloen Chit Rd.
Topshop, B1,290 1/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd.
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Bikie Swimwear
Style: Quirky prints, cute frills and edgy cutouts: Bikie Swimwear is for the young and playful. Their latest collection, Coffeeholic, includes the Espresso (B1,250), a high-waisted bikini in dark brown with a frilly top, and the gingham-patterned, one-piece Mocha (B1,250), which has daring front and back cutouts and a halterneck. Size: S and M Price range: B1,150-1,250 Instagram: @bikie_swimwear
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Khongboon Swimwear
Style: With vibrant colors and striking prints, this super sexy swim and activewear brand is for the bold. From the Bolzano (B3,100), a classic triangle top with gold clips, to the Lods (B3,100), a bandeau top with a criss-cross back design, this brand’s got bikinis, one-piece high cuts, halter tops, criss-cross bandeaus and high-waist bottoms to satisfy all. Size: S-L Price range: B3,100-3,445 Instagram: @khongboon_swimwear
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Studio Common
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Style: Subtle but sexy? Yes, please. This resort-wear label is all about timeless pieces with clean lines and classic silhouettes. The Tahiti (B2,590) one-piece has a seamless high neckline, minimal straps and an exposed back. Rio (B3,690), from their latest collection, is a tastefully modern halter top one-piece that can be worn three ways. Sizes: S-L Price range: B2,590-3,690 Instagram: @studiocommon
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Gucci, B49,000 G/F, Central Embassy,Phloen Chit Rd.
Swimsaic
Style: Fun and flirtatious, Tinyyystyle offers all sorts, whether that’s bikini, one-piece, sporty or even sleeved swimwear. Adventurous, bohemian types, try the V-neck cutout swimsuit (B1,815) in the geometric print Minaret collection. Sizes: S-L, and plus sizes (customized only) Price range: B1,160-1,910 Instagram: @tinyyystyle
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Style: Wrap yourself in the wear of a beach goddess with Swimsaic’s East Asian-inspired patterned swimsuits with deep pastel hues. The Chinois collection (B2,975) comes with the unique detailing of a separate belt inspired by the Japanese obi kimono sash, while the long-sleeve Deco (B2,660) works an eye-catching Art Deco motif. Sizes: S-L Price range: B2,660-3,037 Instagram: @swimsaic
Tinyyystyle
Zazzie
Style: Zazzie’s three lingerie-esque collections will have you feeling confident and sexy all summer. The Jackie 04 (B1,090) from the L’Soleil collection comes with a razor back wearable as a bikini or as a gym tank top, while the Bella (B1,490) from the Noix de Coco collection goes for a classic cut with a one-piece swimsuit that can be spiced up with a belt (purchased separately). Sizes: XS-L, and also freesize Price range: B690-1,590 Instagram: @zazzie_shop
Alexander Wang, B24,900 M/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd.
Zara, B990 1/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd.
Rag & Bone, B14,900 M/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd.
DESIGNER BANGKOK Dhun Packpongphanchai Dhun “Gab” Packpongphanchai, co-founder and creative director of chic, minimalist swimwear brand Studio Common (see above), shares her favorite spots from her home neighborhood, Ari, and beyond. Neighborhood: Ari. It has everything you could possibly ask for, not just restaurants and cafes, and it’s not as crowded as Thonglor or Sukhumvit. Also, it’s nice and walkable. Restaurants: I like places that are not too crowded. The Commons is good during
weekdays. In Ari, I’d definitely pick Hanazen (42 Ari Soi 5), Baan Puengchom (Phahon Yothin Soi 7) and Krua Chum Sai (31 Phahon Yothin Soi 5). Bars: Method to My Madness (Lad Phrao R d . ) fo r c h ea p Le o b e e r, Walden o n Sukhumvit Soi 31 for when I don't feel like meeting a lot of strangers, PrumPlum Umeshu Plum Wine Bar (35/2 Sribumphen Rd.), owned by my friend, for when I want to hangout with friends, Ba Hao (8 Soi
Nana, Maitri Chit Rd.) and El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd.) when I have overseas visitors. Shopping: When I shop I go to EmQuartier (Sukhumvit Rd.) and overseas. Usually I have my clothes tailor-made at For Chong (between Sukhumvit Soi 49 and 51) since I have weird body proportions. Check out Studio Common on Instagram @studiocommon or online at www.studiocommon.com
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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bites & blends
NEW MENU
Summer Fling Arguably the city’s first truly modern Thai restaurant, the newly Michelin-anointed Sra Bua, has unveiled a summer menu (B3,200 for dinner, from Apr 1) that looks, as usual, like no Thai food you’ve come across before (unless you eat at Sra Bua). Across eight courses, you get a DIY tom yum soup that asks you to squeeze noodles out of a syringe and red curry crab mousse served with white asparagus. Head chef Chayawee Sutcharitchan’s kitchen wizardry also extends beyond the obviously-Thai, like in a frozen-solid tuna tartare with pungent garlic cream. As is custom, the meal begins with tweaked street-food appetizers (edible bags of nuts, anyone?) and ends with playfully deceptive petit fours. Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight. BTS Siam
NEW RESTAURANT
DINNER
NEW RESTAURANT
All Aboard
Star Studded
That’s a Wrap
Sukhumvit’s latest seafood specialist, Octo Seafood Bar, comes from the people behind seafood heavyweights Kodang Talay and Happy Fish. The restaurant’s two-story venue spirits diners into something like a sunken ship. If the large porthole windows, wavey floor and undersea murals were not enough to convince you, lurking above the bar is a giant octopus. Flavors span both Thai and European: crabs stir-fried with black peppercorn (B1,900/kg) sea bass with spinach, tomatoes, capers and lemon butter (B330). Much of the seafood gets brought in from the far-flung capitals of good lobster (Canada, B2,200/kg) and king crab (Alaska, B4,900/kg). 88/22 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-2619899. Open daily 4pm-midnight
This Mar 27-28, two of Bangkok’s two-Michelin-starred restaurants join forces. The Michelin Guide Dining Series brings together Ryuki Kawasaki of Mezzaluna (ultra-posh tasting-menu joint atop Lebua) and Arnaud Dunand-Sauthier of Le Normandie (equally posh French joint atop Mandarin Oriental) for two nights of French fine dining with a Thai twist. Despite the eye-watering B11,500 price of entry, it’s selling fast, with tickets for the first night at Le Normandie (Mar 27) already gone. But you can taste the same eight-course menu (wine and Champagne included) the next night at Mezzaluna, with tickets available at goo.gl/qZbgQu.
Ari’s Tex-Mex newcomer, Wraptor, belongs to the owner of Jim’s Burgers, another of the neighborhood’s comfort-food favorites. The small venue is heavy on high stools, white tiles, and old-school video consoles, while the menu is mostly wraps. Fajitas to the Moon (B185) is packed with spice-rubbed chicken, bell peppers, onions, garlic sauce, sour cream and lettuce. Substitute the chicken for steak, add lots of cheese and you have the Monster Cheese from Hell (B260). Non-wrap options include a grilled steak taco bowl (B150) with lettuce, cherry tomatoes and honey mustard sauce. The tortillas are all made in-house. Ari Samphan Soi 2, 085-660880 Open Thu-Tue 2pm-midnight.
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BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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bites PIZZA
The Upper Crust Italians invented it, Americans changed it, but what makes a pizza great? Is it crust, sauce or toppings? Here, we break down some of the city’s top purveyors of pizza. By BK Staff A
Il Bolognese
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Peppina
Who: A downright comforting trattoria with convivial spirit and zero pretension. Crust: Wonderfully crisp yet pillowy, moist but burnt in all the right places. Get this: The margherita (B390) has the zing of a good tomato base that’s cut with chunky and surprisingly tangy buffalo mozzarella.
Who: Team Appia’s strictly Naples-style pizza, made to Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana rules. Crust: Tangy and pillow-soft, slightly chewy with charred bits from the blazing hot oven—many however complain that the crust can get too billowy. Get this: The simple Marinara (B180/260) thanks to perfectly acidic San Marzano tomatoes.
139/3 Sathorn Soi 7, 02-286-8805 Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33 02-119-7677. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-midnight
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Delices de Capoue
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Who: Ekkamai’s cozy new pizzeria is French-owned but has the pizza panache of Italy. Crust: Made with specially imported Italian flour matured for 72 hours. Wood ovens achieve that doughy and pliable Napolitana crust. Get this: Let the crust shine with the traditional margherita pizza (B350). The L’Italain (B510) makes for a heartier, creamier choice, with B mozzarella, gorgonzola, parmigiano and balsamic cream.
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Ekamai Complex, 359/7 Sukhumvit Soi 63 Ekkamai 02-020-1635. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-11pm
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120/3, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-261-1212. Open daily 11am-11pm
Gallery Pizza
Who: Italian-American co-owner/ chef Shane Greene stays open till 4am for delivery and partners with Sathorn 11 Art Space. Crust: 72-hour fermented using 100-percent imported ingredients. The result is satisfyingly spongy yet crisp, with slightly burnt edges. Get this: Fun stuff like the Pat Kaprow (B325) and Vodka Pie (vodka sauce, mozzarella, Italian tomatoes and fresh basil, B275) aside, you can’t go wrong with the American Pepperoni (B355).
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404 Sathorn Soi 11, 020-411-044. Open daily 11am-4am
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Pizza Mania
Who: American-style, bigger-is-better pies that ooze cheesy goodness. Delivery only. Crust: Nothing fancy here, just a good thin crust that’s pliable and chewy with crisp edges, available all the way up to a New Yorker-style 18 inches. Get this: The variety of toppings is endless, H starting with the pepperoni (truly American) and the Tirolese (B395) that has mozzarella, gorgonzola cheese and smoked bacon. Detroit-style pizza has a thick and fluffy deep-dish crust covered in mozzarella and homemade sauce (special order only).
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Pala Pizza
Who: Asoke’s institution for Roman-style pizza: thicker, crunchier and square. The result of much lovehate conversation. Crust: Cooked as one-meter-long slabs and cut up into squares (B50-130 for a roughly 6-by-6-inch piece). The bottom forms a very thin, crispy crust with beautiful char marks, while the half-inch above is an aerated, slightly sour miracle. Get this: San Marzano tomatoes and artichoke add zing to the capricciosa (B115), whle the cinque formaggi (B125) is a cheesy delight. #1 MRT Sukhumvit Station, 02-259-1228-9. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun11 am-11pm
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Pizza Massilia
Who: This collaboration between French restaurateur Frederic Meyer (Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah) and Italian chef Luca Apino (La Bottega di Luca) takes an Italymeets-France approach to pizzas. Crust: Delicate and thinner than Peppina, mixed with Minere mineral water and “air-conditioned“ flour. Good news if you have a gluten intolerance: Pizza Massilia Ruam Rudee has you covered. Get this: Extravagant toppings like the Mortadella truffle (B590) with organic tomato sauce, fior di latte mozzarella, black truffle sauce and Mortadella black truffle.
15/1 Soi Ruam Rudee, 02 651 5091. Open 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-11pm
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Sfizio
Who: Hidden in a back alley of Asoke, Sfizio feels more like a cafe than a restaurant, but is right up there with the crema of Bangkok’s homey Italian New Wave. Crust: Fluffy, charred and fermented for 72 hours—competition for any of this city’s pizza heavyweights. Get this: For something new, go for the signature Sfizio (220/400) with mozzarella, ricotta, parmesan, pork sausage and truffle. 44/4 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-262-0405. Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-4pm Tues-Sun 6pm-10:30pm
PIZZA NIGHTMARES LUPICANTE PIZZA FROM MOZZA BY COCOTTE (B1,390)
SEAFOOD MIXED TOM YUM PIZZA AT PIZZA HUT (FROM B299)
THREE NATION FUSION PIZZA AT VIVARIUM (B750)
SPINACH AND LAVA EGG PIZZA AT AKART BISTRO (B350)
Bad Bangkok food rule no. 1: When in doubt, whack a massive shellfish on it along with bisque tomato sauce and smattering green peas. Please, leave the peas for the pot pies.
Bangkok has done a lot of nasty stuff to pizza in its time. It’s turned it into cones, made it into toasted sandwiches, and even had a go at replacing the base with fried chicken (see KFC’s “Chizza). None come close to this timeworn offense to pretty much every office party we’ve been to.
Four things that never needed to come together: salmon roe, scallion, green curry and marinara sauce—on a base that tastes like Playdough. And they charge B750 for this!
The seemingly yeast-free, soggy, cracker-like base doesn’t stand a chance against the topping of spinach, molten cheese and runny poached egg, while the overriding flavor seems to be supermarket “Italian Seasoning.”
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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bites
OPEN DOOR
Oh Chic
Asian-Italian food meets flashy lounge-club vibes. The buzz: Someone’s having another crack at the spot on Ekkamai that was the Lamborghini-themed bar. This time it’s a chinoiserie-styled hangout that revives a kind of Bed Supperclub-era lounge-bar vibe. The decor: Moody, modern, glossy and peppered with Chinese cliches. The dining area’s divided between a room of plush velvet chairs in deep blues and purples, and an outdoor space inspired by Chinese tea houses, complete with a gnarled old banyan tree. Ornamental Chinese umbrellas hang from the lounge area ceiling, while wood lattice-work covers the walls. Keep an eye out for the rotating art collections (currently the frenzied oil paintings of Sarawut Yasamut).
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The food: Former MasterChef Taiwan competitor Pairoh Arunngam turns out an Asian-inflected Italian menu. Squid ink pasta comes chilled with ponzu wasabi sauce and topped with raw salmon (B240), while more traditionally Italian is the Oh Chic bruschetta (B140): one with chopped tomatoes and the other garlic-sauteed mushrooms. Heartier fare includes the grilled New Zealand lamb marinated in yellow curry and served with long beans, garlic and coriander jelly (B790). The Thai tea creme brulee (B140) is true to its name and creamy without being heavy.
of jalapeno cilantro rum, egg whites, lime juice, salted caramel syrup and cheese (unexpected but delicious, B320). Gin lovers can explore the seven gin infusions, all B300. Our pick was the Mixed Berries G&T, which was strong rather than sweet but still fruity.
The drinks: For a kick, down the Wasabi Amaretto, a heady concoction of amaretto, fresh lime juice, Angostura bitters, wasabi and egg whites (B300). Also fiery is the Jalapeno Cheese
Civic Hotel Ekkamai, 8/8 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 081-403-8159. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-1am
Why we’d come back: While we could pass on some of the music and glitzy styling, they have topless men dancing once a month or so. Plus, this is a bar-meets-restaurant whose chef can really cook. Megan Leon
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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Primal Modern Grill
Escape
The Hass Bistro
NEW AND NOTED
Great Escape Phrom Phong’s fancy EmQuartier shopping mall now has a rooftop bar that takes over the whole fifth floor of one building. That means plenty of space—and we mean plenty. Escape (5/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-66515) has three bars in total, plus a tapas restaurant in addition to another indoor restaurant area. The whole place aims at a beach club vibe, and we think they’ve managed it with their lounge chairs, umbrellas and DJs spinning tropical house tunes. Show up at 5pm for buy-two-get-one-free on selected drinks like mojito (B320), Manhattan (B360) or a pint of Hoegarden (B380). Open daily 5pm-midnight.
Prime Time Rama 9’s new steakhouse, Primal Modern Grill (Rama 9 Soi 49, 02-046-5332), appeals to your base, carnivorous instincts while adding some modern flare. Hidden in the menu are unconventional touches like the beef bacon in the Hail Caesar salad (B220) or the baba ganoush, cacik (a Turkish yogurt dip)
and parmesan that come with the herb-crusted rack of lamb (B690). The smoked beef brisket (B590) is rubbed in a spice mix before being cooked sous vide for 48 hours and plated with a trio of all-American sides: coleslaw, onion rings and baked beans. The decor’s divided between contemporary (scrubbed concrete, exposed brick and square-grid windows) and elemental (wood and hanging plants).
Going Green The avocado fad to end all avocado fads: The Hass Bistro (1/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 099-192-9626) has a menu dedicated to the creamy green fruit. Try avocado on bread in the vegan avocado toast with fragrant truffle butter (B145) and a croissant with avocado butter (B60). The Avo Burger (B335) really isn’t a burger at all, and we’re not disappointed. It’s decadent yet seemingly healthy, substituting bread for avocado halves and beef for chicken, with layers of lettuce, cheese and red onions. Green goodness extends to dessert, too, in an avocado cheesecake (B250). Wash it all down with a cold pressed juice (B140). BK staff
TABLE TALK
French St. O.P.Garden, Charoenkrung soi 36, 02-238-6400. Open daily 11:30am–11pm With the essence of airy Provence, from its wooden decor and shady trees around the house, this bistro plates up French dishes using healthy produces like organic vegetables that you can eat without regretting it later. Hop over as a group and order the sharing-size hay baked chicken stuffed with rice and fragrant black truffle, and don’t forget to save some room for the zucchini cake comes with creamy olive oil to end the meal. Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only Today – 31 Jul 18
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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bites FOOD REVIEWS
SERINA TEPPANYAKI JAPANESE DINING
Happy Endings C
HHH
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Vietnamese. 1/5 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 080-9614524. Open daily 11am-11pm. BB-BBB Corkage B500
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Yaki soba. 450THB
Hiroshima Oyster fry 280THB
Chicken Steak. 380THB
This over-30-year-old Japanese restaurant is Silom’s best kept secret. Old Japanese recipes are alive here with beautiful local produce and imported meat, shining honestly on your plates. At B2,250 per set, you’ll get 150g of teppanyaki Kobe wagyu accompanied by fresh sashimi, salad, soup, grilled vegetable, garlic rice and a scoop of homemade fresh strawberry sorbet. Or get same set with 150g US Black Angus beef at B1,650. SERINA, 9/26 Surawong Soi Jim Thompson, Bangkok, Thailand
Between Tonkin Annam on the riverside and Happy Endings on Sala Daeng, Vietnamese food’s having a hip moment. Whereas the former takes you on a journey to relatively unseen sides of the cuisine, the latter plays it safe and kitschy, and that’s OK too. Part of the Woof Pack Building (Bangkok Screening Room, Guss Damn Good, Whitespace Gallery) responsible for restoring some edge to tired and touristy Silom, Happy Endings is a mix of neon lights, raw concrete, Sriracha bottle-topped formica tables and a half-dozen other en-vogue decor trends that perches above sister restaurant Meatchop. It reminds us a little of Little Bao, the Hong Kong restaurant with a brief Bangkok flirtation that took traditional Chinese cuisine in trendy new directions. We wouldn’t say the food here is so adventurous, but nor is it particularly true to tradition. That much is
evident in the restaurant’s version of banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich). The Mama Vo’s Classic (pate and pork sausage, B220) is like biting into a soft bun filled with creamy coleslaw, rather than the usual piquant mix of cured meats and pickled goodness. We’ve had better. But the “Vietnamese dumplings” (banh cuon, B150) make up for that: balls of chewy, sticky rice batter encasing a fragrant combination of minced pork and mushroom, topped off with the crispiest of garlic shards. Similarly satisfying is the beef pho (B200), which compensates for its relatively light broth with generous slices of beef and a full supporting cast of fresh greens. There’s still room on the menu for a few Bangkok cafe mainstays that don’t have much to do with Vietnam, such as the (admittedly tasty) fried soft-shell crab salad (B200), all iceberg, mustard dressing and sprinkling of dill. Happy Endings is as much a bar as a restaurant, and prides itself on a line of Asian-inspired drinks (sample names: 100 Dong, It’s Not a Big Dill) that we’d say probably upstage the food. Top marks to the Asian Delight (Chinese herbs, vermouth, Aperol, bitters and gin, B300) for a genuinely interesting twist on a negroni. Adding to the liveliness is a slick ‘70s disco soundtrack (keep an eye out for guest DJs) and a crowd of Silom-Sathorn’s cool, young professionals. Don’t come to Happy Endings for authenticity, come here for a good time.
Reservation: 02-235-8382
Via Maris HHH Mediterranean. Convent Rd., 02-236-5558. Open daily 5:30-11pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm. BTS Sala Daeng. BBB-BBBB No corkage charge F
We are the combination of Dynamic Espresso Bar and Casual Milanese Lifestyle Eatery 02-712-7817
nuvolacaffebkk nuvolacaffebkk #nuvolacaffebkk
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For years, Convent Road’s Vesper was the area’s preeminent afterhours cocktail bar and European bistro. Then it shuttered for a month-long renovation at the end of 2017, piquing the interest of Bangkok’s food clique. When the construction tape came off the venue had split in two—on the left was a trimmed down, slender Vesper, and the right a shiny new Mediterranean bistro named Via Maris. If you are familiar with owners Chotipong Leenutapong and Debby Tang (the restaurateurs behind Italian eateries Il Fumo and La Dotta), you’ll be at home in Via Maris— it has their style written all over it. Its vibrant turquoise and orange facade sticks out like a sore thumb on Convent’s street food-crammed walkway. Inside, colorful murals pop out among marble-topped tables and dim lighting while blues hits and golden oldies set a catchy, upbeat vibe. The head chef, Sardinian-born Francesco Deiana, remains the same as in the restaurant’s Vesper days. This time he dishes out a mixture of Med-
iterranean flavors from North Africa, Spain and Southern Italy. Good Mediterranean food is simple and produce-focused. Just like Vesper, the ingredients here are top notch. Simple plates like the creamy burrata and strawberry salad (B460) and the cauliflower steak (a single, huge piece of cauliflower in a bed of rich labneh, B370) feel substantial enough to be meat-free mains. Same goes with more traditional staples like the fileja pasta (B390) with its fall-off-the-bone pork ribs and peppery nduja-spiced meat sauce or the Spanish surf and turf (B590) with succulent panfried Basque mackerel and spicy txistorra chorizo sausage. Good produce will get your far, but the menu here still plays it relatively safe and is far from perfect, meaning your palate might get bored after a few dishes. On our last visit, the namesake Via Maris Octopus (B550) came out as fresh and Instagram-worthy as you want it to be, but ended up chewy, dry and lacking any memorable flavor. The basbousa (a Middle Eastern semolina cake with orange yogurt, B290) fell into the same good-looking-but-dry-andboring category. Not the best meal-capper. Those quibbles are far from deal-breakers, though. Via Maris puts together a nice package. The service is slick and professional, the wine list is unpretentious and affordable (wines by the glass run from B190 Australians to B240 Italians—not bad!) and the tuneful atmosphere is exactly what you want out of a Med-leaning bistro. Is Via Maris a game-changer? No. Is it a worthy successor to Vesper? Yes.
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Forget it Only if you’re in the neighborhood A pleasant dining experience Not to be missed Flawless BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
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H Reservations recommended F Parking E Dress requirements G Live music
3/14/2561 BE 10:56 AM
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now WED Going Forwards Rolling around the corner is the Bangkok Motor Show, that annual exhibition of cars, big bikes and pretties. Supercars will no doubt be flaunted, but save your ogling for the real automobiles of the future: the plug-in, green machines that will see us out of the air quality index’s red zone. The show runs Mar 28-Apr 8 at Impact, Muang Thong Thani.
FRI Eat Up The Singha Food Fest has arrived, one-upping recent eating extravaganzas with a whopping 50 food venues (we counted 40 at Mad Face) divided conveniently into three zones: Food Debut (first-time vendors), Food Idol (well-known vendors) and Food Legend (you get it). Dining aside, make it to Makkasan Station on Mar 23-25 for blaring Thai pop and an Instagram gold mine of a festival ground. See page 19.
THU Well Read We’ll likely never return to the city’s book heyday, i.e. 2013, when UNESCO named Bangkok that year’s World Book Capital (an aspirational title). Thankfully, the International Book Fair returns annually to Queen Sirikit National Convention Center. Stop in Mar 29-Apr 8 for a selection both Thai and not, with some local writers heading up events.
NIGHTLIFE STYLISH NONSENSE MEETS DR. LUM
The two underground artists team up for a night of experimental improv, with a wide range of support acts. Mar 23, 8am. The Overstay, Charan Sanitwong Soi 40, 064-7234975. B200. GLOW FRIDAY WITH SUNJU HARGUN & ELAHEH Stylish Nonsense
Techno sounds from the two local DJs. Mar 23, 9:30pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B300. FRANK JEZ
The Irish DJ who’s opened for Beyonce, Calvin Harris and Chris Brown spins an electro-house set. Mar 23, 10pm. Insanity Nightclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-804-9542. B300400 includes 1 drink. NEVEREST & FUTURE SOUNDS PRESENTS FARMHAUS/DHAKA
DJs Author, Rai-Soul, Dan Buri and Nastanet team up for a night of collaborative house music. Mar 23, 10pm. Safe Room, Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. Free before 11pm, then B350 (includes 1 drink). AMERICAN HOUSE PARTY Dan Buri
Beer importer Beervana throws a party with drinking games like beer
pong, as well as darts, pool and, of course, lots of craft beer. Mar 24, 6pm. Nineteens Up, Silom Soi 19, 096-649-6919. Free.
Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261- 6661. B200.
TRANSPORT | RUSS COOPER
Techo from two of Bangkok’s busiest DJs. Mar 24, 9:30pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B300 includes 1 drink.
The British DJ spins his techno and house record collection. Mar 24, 9pm.12 x 12, 810/22 Soi Thararom 2, 094-260-4713. Tickets TBA. INTERSTELLAR WITH MONO JUNK
This showcase of Southeast Asian DJs promises experimental sounds from Kim Rapatti, Atika Altar and Naoki Imura. Mar 24, 9pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-717-4365. B300 includes 1 drink. WESTIN POOL PARTY
This daytime pool party promises an upbeat DJ lineup of Juany Bravo, Chazin, Groove and Jerome G. Mar 24, 1pm. The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-207-8000. B2,900-25,000. S'KAYA SHOWCASE WITH SELECTOR SOUL IRATION
Reggae, roots and more from French singer S’Kaya, joined by Soul Iration and local DJs Woken and K9 and Tassmah. Mar 24, 9pm. Studio Lam,
GLOW SATURDAY W/ DAN BURI & KUROTEN
DOPE AS FUNK: FREAKS AND GEEKS
DJs Arin, Tommy Nori, Aopsher, DeLorean and Plato fill the room with classic hip-hop and R&B. Mar 24, 10pm. Game Over Lounge, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-170-7683. B300. SICKO
De Commune’s resident DJs serve up extreme sounds for a Sunday night. Mar 25, 8pm. 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061717-4365. ADIERO + NUKIER
The Bangkok-based DJ and production team spin emotional house and techno. Mar 25, 9pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. Free before midnight, then B250 (includes 1 drink).
ADIERO + NUKIER
The local DJ spin electronic beats till late. Mar 25, 9pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B250 includes 1 drink. GLOW THURSDAY
Deep and mesmerizing sounds from up-and-coming DJs Junesis and Bassyouth. Mar 29, 9:30pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B250 includes 1 drink. DRINKS ARTISTS
The Bangkok-spinoff to DrinkEntrepreneur offers a networking party of the creative industries. Grab tickets at bit.ly/2tPsPHt. Mar 29, 6pm. Nowhere, 6/F, Tha City Loft hotel, Ekkamai Soi 6, 094-516-6663. B490. SUNJU HARGUN
The electronic music enthusiast is supported by the underground DJ Mae Happyair. Mar 30, 12am. Beam, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. Free. JUNIOR & KYLE
Two festival veterans take over the decks with fine EDM. Mar 30, 10pm. Insanity Nightclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-804-9542. B300 -400 includes 1 drink. >>
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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now NIGHTLIFE
COMEDY Bill Bailey
Christian Vance
RAFAEL DA CRUZ X MENDY INDIGO
The Cologne-based DJ teams up with Bangkok’s techno forerunner. Mar 30, 10pm. 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061717-4365. B200. BUTANE & DOTT
American DJ Butane, founder of house and techno label Alphahouse, is joined by one of Bangkok’s top DJing talents. Mar 30, 9:30pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-6143355. B350 includes 1 drink.
Niel Thrope
LITTERBOX: CAT REPUBLIC FUNDRAISER DAY PARTY
A daytime celebration of cats and house music that’s also a fundraiser for the Cat Republic's adoptable cat cafe. Mar 31, 4pm. Coastal, 113 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 098-253-9356. B350 includes 2 drinks. _COSM RETURNS
After a year-long absence, the house and techno promoter presents DJs Mark Broom, Christian Vance, Discrete Circuit and Sarit. Mar 31, 8pm. 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-717-4365. B350 before 10pm and B500 after.
Dott
RAI SOUL & NEIL THORPE
Two British DJs team up for a night of techno and trance-enducing club music. Mar 31, 10pm. Mustache, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081844-7080. Free. PUMP UP THE JAM BY FRIENDS OF FRIENDS
International names Brent Burns, NK Chan, Alex Imix and Superstar Panda mix disco, house and techno. Mar 31, 10pm. Glow, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. Free before 11pm, then B350.
British comic Bill Bailey is coming to perform a standup show in Bangkok. Bailey will draw on more than 20 years as a traveling comedian as part of a two-hour set at The Westin Grande Sukhumvit on Apr 5. Tickets for the show (which is part of the Magners International Comedy Festival) are available on bit.ly/2FCnlRP priced at B1,000-3,200. The wispy-haired comic is known for routines that jump from topical to political to observational, combining razor-sharp critiques of society and musical comedy that often veers into the absurd. His long career has included high-profile stints on the '00s sitcom Black Books, as well as panel shows such as Never Mind the Buzzcocks and QI. Bailey will follow up his Bangkok performance with further shows in Pattaya (Apr 7) and Phuket (Apr 9).
ART
LIVE MUSIC
John Legend
BNK48
Concerts
TIGER RUN: WEST OF EAST X YERM AT THE GRU
JOHN LEGEND
Local talents West of East and Yerm take over the stage with their folkrock and alternative rock sounds. Mar 28, 8pm. The Gru, Wong Sawang Rd., 093-001-4261. B60.
The American soul singer/songwriter makes his live Bangkok debut as part of his "Darkness and Light World Tour 2018" in support of his 2016 album which spawned hits like "Love Me Now" and "Penthouse Floor," a collaboration with Chance The Rapper. Grab tickets at thaiticketmajor. com. Mar 23, 8pm. BITEC, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd. 2,800-8,000. THE FIN. + YOGEE NEW WAVES LIVE IN BANGKOK
Japanese indie-pop band The fin. is joined on the night by a new local talent. Grab tickets at bit.ly/2EXWeo9. Mar 25, 6pm. Voice Space, BBD Building, 197 Viphavadi-Rangsit Rd. B1,500. ECON MUSIC FEST: MA-HIT AT MAHIT 2018: NEON JUNGLE
Live performance from Jelly Rocket, Three Man Down, Mattnimare, The Parkinson and Tattoo Colour, alongside a market featuring stalls from Chula’s Faculty of Economics students. Mar 28, 4pm. Faculty of Economics, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd. Free.
RADIO TUNE VOL.2
A dub reggae night headlined by Hexthree, Roots Tone, The Don and Selector K9. Mar 29, 7pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-717-4365. B200. BNK48
Thailand’s sister band to Japanese girl group AKB48 known for their smash-hit “Koisuru Fortune Cookie” makes its full band debut concert. Tickets are already sold out. Mar 30, 6pm. Bitec Bangna Hall 106, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd. B800-2,000. JBJ
K-Pop boy band Just Be Joyful make their Bangkok debut. Grab tickets at bit.ly/2tNDh2o. Mar 31, 6pm. Thunder Dome, Muang Thong Thani, Popular Rd. B2,000-6,000.
Gigs TRIBUTE TO GETZ AND GILBERTO
A night to honour the works of jazz masters Stan Getz and Joao Gilberto.
18
The Fin
Mar 24, 9pm. FooJohn, Charoenkrung Soi 31. Free. JAKOB DINESEN FEAT. PURE & SUNNY TRIO BAND
The Danish saxophonist and local talents fill the room with modern jazz. Mar 27, 9pm. Maggie Choo’s, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Free. VOL. 12.2 THE ELECTRO POETRY
An electronica showcase night featuring with local talents Ramintra and PlernPanPerth and Brussels-based artist Van Twolips. Mar 28, 8pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-717-4365. B300. SINGER SONGWRITER NIGHT
Alyn, Pree (Mattnimare), John Will Sail and KF fill the room with their original acoustic and indie sounds. Mar 29, 8:30pm. Maggie Choo’s, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Free. THE AVALANCHES
The Australian electronic music group known for their sample-heavy records Since I Left You and Wildflower play a rooftop DJ set. Mar 31, 7pm. Siwilai City Club, 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02160-5631. B1,500-1,800.
At Dawn
GAMES AND POLITICS
In this interactive exhibition, Communication Design students of Chulalongkorn University use games as a way to discuss political issues like armed conflict, migration and governmental surveillance. Through Apr 12. CommeDe Building, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd., 02-218-4492. Free. AT DAWN
Paintings, drawings and mixed-media artworks by young artists Supaporn Chulaka, Ponpassapon Bunyaritthanone, Tan Kositpipat and Terdtanwa Kanama exploring semi-surreal and abstract concepts. Throughn Apr 28. Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, 137137/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-422-2092. Free. SIDE REEL
A motion pictures installation by Jakawal Nilthamrong examining the operation of gold mines in Pijit and Phayao, based on written history and his own childhood experiences. Through Mar 25. BACC, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Free. SPARK: ONE SHOT ONE MINUTE
A single evening exhibition calling on attendees to use photos to tell a story on how they inspire or affect their
Side Reel
lives. Mar 24, 6pm. House of Lucie, 1 Ekkamai Soi 8, 095-478-9987. Free. BLOOD SWEAT BEER PART: MEDIUM RARE
10 street art artists and painters exhibit their works meant to signify that neither happiness nor misery lasts forever. Mar 30-Apr 28. Kalwit Studio & Gallery, 119/14 Ruamrudee Soi 2, 02-254-4629. Free. STREET PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP WITH RAMMY NARULA
Join one of Thailand’s street photographer legends for 2 days of lectures, a photoshoot and critique session. Tickets TBA. For more information, visit bit.ly/2FHMxqt. Mar 31-Apr 1. Leica Store, Ratchadamri Rd., 02656-1102. Free. FROM CHAOPHRAYA TO MAE PING
The watercolor paintings of Saichol Choungbunsri portray the lives and cultures along the rivers. Apr 1-30. A Day In A Life, 156/1 Tanao Rd., 092-462-8224. Free. TWO MEN LOOK OUT THROUGH THE SAME BARS #2
Artists Miti Ruangkritya and Dhyan Ho examine different points of views standing from the same spot. Through Apr 8. WTF Gallery & Cafe, 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Free.
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SALES & FAIRS
FILM
Black Alley Market Market
Opening
PACIFIC RIM UPRISING (USA)
BACKSTABBING FOR BEGINNERS (USA)
Fantasy/Action. Stacker Pentecost’s son takes on his father’s mantle to command the next generation of Jaeger pilots in a fight to save the world.
Drama/Thriller. Based on a true story, a young UN officer exposes a conspiracy related to the death of his predecessor. ERIC CLAPTON: LIFE IN 12 BARS (USA)
The 39th Bangkok International Motor Show 2018
Singha Food Fest
BLACK ALLEY MARKET
A music market featuring instruments from Sathorn Chainsaw, rare post-punk to indie-rock vinyl from Jar (Hariguem Zaboy) and Tat (Basement Tape), oldie but goodie heavy metal CDs, ‘90s-inspired specs from Zink Sunglasses and sex toys from 19.69. Apr 1, 6pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-717-4365. Free.
46TH NATIONAL BOOK FAIR & 16TH BANGKOK INTERNATIONAL BOOK FAIR 2018
Shop for thousands of book titles, from fiction to cookbooks, and meet local authors and publishers. Mar 29, 12pm-9pm, Mar 30-Apr 8, 10am9pm. 60 New Rachadapisek Road, 02-229-3000. Free. SINGHA FOOD FEST
A gathering of some 50 food vendors spread across three different zones,
SPOKEN WORD
Documentary. The film tells the life of Old Slowhand aka Eric Clapton through all the ups and downs in his personal and professional life.
joined by celebrities giving cooking demos and pop music performances. Mar 23-25, 4pm. Makkasan Station, New Petchaburi Rd. Free.
Upcoming
THE 39TH BANGKOK INTERNATIONAL MOTOR SHOW 2018
The annual showcase of all that's new in motor technology from world renowned brands, including their environmentally-friendly automobiles. Mar 28-Apr 8. IMPACT Arena, Popular Rd. B100.
SPECIAL SCREENING
SLUMBER (USA)
READY PLAYER ONE (USA)
Horror. A sleep doctor confronts a demon that feeds on people’s nightmares.
Sci-fi/Adventure. Steven Spielberg adapts Ernest Cline’s best-selling novel, set in 2045, about a virtual-reality game where users vie for an enormous fortune.
SCENE AND LIFE OPEN MIC
This new Monday night event opens the stage for wannabe singers and performers. Join Tee The Voice and his live band, and you get a complimentary drink. Mar 26, 9pm. The Iron Fairies, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-918-1600. Free.
On Mar 22, Boonsong Nakphoo (Thudongkawat, 2014) makes his film-career return as the director of a movie detailing the stories of people’s lives in Thailand’s countryside. Through 10 stories, Boonsong aims to capture the unromanticized, everyday issues faced by ordinary people. For more details, visit bit.ly/2Dw42b2. Mar 22-28. Lido, 218/3-4 Siam Square Soi 1, 02-251-1727. B120-140.
DORAEMON: GREAT ADVENTURE IN THE ANTARCTIC KACHI KOCHI (JAPAN)
Animation. Doraemon uses the anywhere door to take Nobita and his friends on an adventure in Antarctica.
KEYS TO THE HEART (KOREA)
Drama. The former boxer connects with his long-lost, autistic brother through music.
WATCH LIST
Indie-darling and director of Mary Is Happy, Mary Is Happy (2013), Freelance (2015) and Die Tomorrow (2018), Nawapol ‘’Ter’’ Thamrongrattanarit lists the films and directors that inspire him at the moment.
THIS IS NOT A FILM (IRAN, 2011)
WHIPLASH (USA, 2014) AND LA LA LAND (USA, 2016)
Director: Jafar Panahi Ter says: "The more his films are banned, the more surprising and unexpected they seem to become. That’s why he’s one of the most inspiring directors. See it for yourself in this documentary."
Director: Damien Chazelle Ter says: "Chazelle is able to turn an ordinary story into something extraordinary."
ARRIVAL (USA, 2016) AND BLADE RUNNER 2049 (USA, 2017)
Director: Dennis Villeneuve Ter says: "In my opinion, Villeneuve is the best director in terms of using sound and atmosphere to astonishing effect in his storytelling, especially in these two films."
LADY BIRD (USA, 2018)
Director: Greta Gerwig Ter says: "With Lady Bird , Gerwig has made a film that resonates with the voice and feelings of common people. She is the Woody Allen of this century."
MALILA: THE FAREWELL FLOWER (THAI, 2018)
Director: Anucha Boonyawatana Ter says: "Malila captures the love story of a gay couple in a constant and honest way. I am also impressed with other allegorial topics that Anucha chooses to feature, like Thai beliefs, the trees and the stream."
BK Magazine Friday, March 23, 2018
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