Botswana: The Field Notes

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EDITOR’S NOTE

There’s something quietly

freely in wide, open spaces.

self-assured and sophisticated

It’s a place of endless skies and

about Botswana. It’s one of

exotic wildlife, and whenever

those rare places in the world

I come back here, I feel a true

where you’ll find no fanfare

connection to the land from

or hype. Yes, it may have one

whence we all came.

of the world’s fastest growing economies, and yes, the

Whether star-gazing in the

wildlife watching opportunities

heart of the Makgadikgadi Pans

and luxury lodges here are

or training my zoom lens on

world-class, but this is still

the Big Five from the comfort

a country that one can come

of a boat on the Okavango

to quietly reflect. This is a

Delta; I am always acutely

spiritual and humble land, a

aware of the peace Botswana

place that modestly makes

instils within me. A country

good on its promises to

that has the ability to leave an

provide exceptional travel

impression to last a lifetime;

experiences for lovers of life

it is with great joy that I

and the outdoors. Botswana is

encourage you to turn the

the place I go when I want to

page and discover the very

escape. When I want to wander

best of Botswana.

Tom Marchant, Co-Founder Black Tomato


Botswana Field Notes

WELCOME TO

BOTSWANA


B ot s wana is a s tu n n in g u n to u c h e d j ew el in the cr o wn o f Afric a . Largely covered by the sands of the Kalahari, the isolated lunar-like surface of the Makgadikgadi Pans and the splendour of the Okavango Delta, Botswana is rich in natural beauty. Add to this a generous dose of exceptional hospitality and you’ll see why our Africa experts were so keen to share some of their Botswana favourites with you in this little book of inspiration.


Kas ane

Botswana Field Notes

Sh a k a we Chobe National Park

O k a va n g o d e lta Moremi Game Reserve

G c wih a b a C a ve s

Ma u n S e h i th w a D ’ ka r Ghanzi Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Ch a r le s H ill

Kang Gaborone

H u k u n ts i Ka a

Khakhea

K g a la gadi Tr a n s fr o n ti e r P ark

lo

po

riv

er

We rd a

Mo

N AM I BI A

N xai Pan N a ti onal Park

S O U TH A FR ICA


MAP Zambezi rive r

OF

THE

COUNTRY ZIMBABWE

Nat a

Ramokgwebana

Serul e Pal apye Z a n zib a r

Visit blacktomato.com to discover more


Botswana Field Notes

TOP

4

LUXURY

SAFARI

EXPERIENCES PR IVATE CH EF AT Z A R A FA C A MP D H O W S U IT E S The Dhow Suites at Zarafa Camp indulge you with a private pool, an extensive veranda and your own attentive staff. This includes a personal chef to cater for your individual tastes. Throughout your stay, your chef will serve a menu of contemporary and traditional dishes to ensure a truly authentic and personal experience.


S TA R G A Z E F R O M Y O UR B AT H AT

uses environmentally

SANC TUA RY B A I N E S’

to provide you with an

CAMP

exceptional spa experience.

The suites at Baines’ Camp all come with private decking, so you can easily gaze out at the wildlife on your doorstep. What’s more, the verandas here have their own tubs, so allow the staff to run you an indulgent bubble bath beneath the stars – you’ll struggle to find such scenic views from

friendly indigenous products and high quality therapies

H ELICO PTER SA FA R I AT B E L MO N D E A G L E IS L A N D For an utterly extravagant yet unique safari perspective, Belmond Eagle Island offers a helicopter safari. This trip, from a private island in the heart of

a bath anywhere else.

the Okavango Delta, gives

S PA

of the stunning flora and

AT SA N CT U A RY

CHIEF’ S CA M P Find true relaxation with an outdoor massage, lulled by the sounds of the Mombo Concession, or feel refreshed after a facial, nourished from locally-sourced African plants and herbs. The spa at Sanctuary Chief’s Camp

spectacular birds-eye views fauna of the UNESCO World Heritage 1000 Site.


Botswana Field Notes

EXPLORING THE

GREAT

OUTDOORS

M O K OR O E X C U R S IO N H O RS EB A C K SA FARIS I N THE OKAVA N G O D E LTA

IN T H E S E LIN D A S P IL LWAY

The Okavango Delta is one of

A horseback safari will

the best places to spot wildlife provide you with the chance in Africa, and for the ultimate

to get close to animals

vantage point, nothing quite

without the intrusion of the

beats a water-based safari.

noise of an engine. Tours

Hear the gentle lapping of the

across the Selinda Spillway

Delta as you glide through

are simply exceptional. Feel

the water on your traditional

the wind through your hair

mokoro. Resembling a

as you trot across the open

venetian gondola, complete

plains and paddle through the

with pole-man steering punt-

shallows. Expect to see herds

style from behind, these boats

of buffalo, majestic African

are originally made of dugout

elephants and wild dogs as

tree trunks, making the whole

you take this truly exhilarating

experience feel raw and

journey across the terrain.

wonderfully natural.


FISH IN G IN CHOBE Life on land may get the majority of the attention when it comes to Africa, but there is a plethora of marine life to pique the interest of any angler. Catfish, pike and the elusive tiger fish are just some of the species you can expect to catch on a fishing excursion in the River Chobe. And for those who aren’t fishing mad, the boat cruise alone is a wonderful way to see Chobe National Park.

B IRD WATC H IN G A CROSS TH E C O UNTRY The immense open skies of Botswana are awash with some of the most fascinating and dynamic bird-life. Be on the lookout for spoonbills, nightjars, giant kingfishers and fishing owls. See huge flocks of the abundant red-billed quelea or the threatened slaty egret. With a range of species to be found across the different regions of the country, you’re bound to be close to the action wherever you are. Botswana really is a twitcher’s paradise.


Botswana Field Notes

SAFARI SOPHISTICATION

Just because you’re in the wilderness, it doesn’t mean you’re a million miles away from luxury. When it comes to the most opulent safaris in Africa, the lodges and


camps of Botswana have got it covered. And whether you want to treat someone special, or simply indulge yourself, we think you’ll find what you’re looking for amongst our top picks...


Botswana Field Notes

Safari top pick

MOTSWIRI CAMP Small and personal are t wo words that perfectly describe Motswiri, a camp that’s ideal for family visits to the area. Fully equipped with a beautiful plunge pool, Motswiri Camp will give you all the trappings of a Botswana safari whilst meeting the exacting st andards of any discerning traveller.


LOC AT I O N The camp sits on the Selinda Spillway between the Okavango and KwandoLinyanti floodplains. The flooding of the spillway during the wet season makes Motswiri the perfect place for a boating safari.

Y O UR R O O M The rooms and communal areas are elegantly decorated and feature aircon, ceiling fans and gas fireplaces. Each lodge villa enjoys a private wooden deck, as well as outdoor showers and luxurious ensuites.

WH Y WE LIKE IT The friendly, laid-back atmosphere is what draws us in to Motswiri. That, and the array of activities on offer. Make sure to try one of their famous horse-back safaris for a thoroughly exhilarating expedition across the stunning landscape.


Botswana Field Notes

WILD BOTSWANA

F R E E & U NTA M E D It’s unsurprising that such a variety of species can be found in a landscape as wild as Botswana’s. Look out for the endangered wild dogs, kori bustards and Pel’s fishing owls as you venture deeper into the unknown. Whether in a secluded lodge or on a safari excursion you’ll never be far from a memorable sight or sound.


THE B I G 5 A haven for wildlife, Botswana is one of the best places in Africa to see all of the Big Five: lion, elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard and white and black rhinoceros. In fact, Botswana has the highest elephant population in all of Africa, with the Chobe River being one of the best places to see their female-led families.

RARE AND END ANG E R E D Thanks to the fertile habitat of the Okavango and Chobe Rivers, as well as the country’s proactive approach to conservation, Botswana is an excellent place to see rare species. The endangered antelope puku, pangolin (anteater) and cheetah can all be found here.

CO N SER VATIO N N ATIO N In addition to ensuring the rich habitat is nurtured for generations to come, Botswana’s environmentallyfriendly practices also promote conservation. You won’t find any big game hunters here; all safari ‘shoots’ are strictly for cameras only.


Botswana Field Notes

Safa r i t o p p i c k

SANCTUARY CHIEF’S CAMP Sanctuary Chief’s Camp is perfectly positioned for a gentler paced safari experience. The traditional style and layout of the property, combined with its stunning location render it one of our favourite stops in Botswana.


LOC AT I O N The camp is located on Chief’s Island in the Mombo Concession of the Moremi Game Reserve. The landscape here is changeable, as the seasons range from dry to wet,

wilderness. With stunning open bathrooms, airconditioning, Wi-Fi, plunge pools and even a gym; the camp still retains ecofriendly credentials, gaining its energy from solar power.

meaning the place is

WH Y WE LIKE IT

teeming with wildlife and

Whilst there are plenty of

has even been dubbed ‘The

activities to choose from at

Predator Capital of Africa’.

Sanctuary Chiefs Camp, it’s also the ideal retreat

Y O UR R O O M Sumptuous furnishings fill the suites here. More than fitting of the description ‘safari chic’, you’ll barely believe that you’re in the middle of the African

for the more relaxed traveller. Be sure to make use of their wonderful spa for a massage with a view you’ll never forget.


Botswana Field Notes

CULTURAL

BOTSWANA

T he s em in omadic li f es t yle of the m any tr ibes o f B o tswana wi l l inspir e a ny t r aveller yearn ing for cultur al im mer sion.

MEET TH E FIRST O F B O TSWA N A – T H E B A S A R WA The Basarwa are a people that have a truly incredible connection to the land in which they live, and the opportunity to meet them is one not to be missed. Watch, learn and be inspired.


A NI MA L T R A C K I NG

LO CA L CO O K IN G

Animal tracking has always

A great one for younger

been an integral part of

explorers - learn to live

survival on the plains

off the land and cook by

of Botswana. Learn the

open fire. We can arrange

tracking techniques used for

for your budding voyagers

centuries by the indigenous

to take part in camp crafts

tribes of Botswana and

and fishing experiences

understand more about

before following traditional

the living habits of the

techniques to prepare a meal

animals that roam this vast

at the end of the day.

wilderness.

C O NS E R VAT I O N Like many of the African nations, a huge push has been made to protect Botswana’s natural wonders. From joining well-known organisations such as Tusk, to supporting the individual contributions of many of the lodges, there is plenty of opportunity to contribute to the welfare of the country. Take time to understand the importance of protecting the country for generations to come and meet with the experts on hand at your camp.


Botswana Field Notes

S a f ar i t o p p i c k

KALAHARI PLAINS CAMP

Some of the best summer wildlife viewing can be done at Kalahari Plains Camp - think black-maned lions and cheetah. This eco-conscious camp is certainly the place to be.


LOC AT I O N

WH Y WE LIKE IT

The camp is found in the

We love the Bushman

Central Kalahari Game

Walk that this camp offers.

Reserve, towards the centre

Led by camp staff, direct

of the country. This reserve

descendants from the

is the largest in Botswana

Basarwa tribe, here you’ll

and plays host to extensive

have the opportunity to

views of the immense pan.

learn the traditions and lifestyles of the various

Y O UR R O O M Rooms pay homage to local culture with tribal art and prints. Each has a screened but open wall that will allow you to survey the masterful landscape outside, and no expense is spared to ensure the utmost comfort. This includes solar-powered electricity and hot water, as well as insulated canvas walls and elegant hardwood floors.

local tribes.


Botswana Field Notes

EPIC BOSTWANA

The vast wilderness and changeable landscape in Botswana makes the country an ideal playground for any travellers looking for a thrill.


Read on to discover our favourite epic adventures across Botswana to set the heart racing.


Botswana Field Notes

TOP 3

EPIC

ADVENTURES

CY C LIN G IN TU LI B LO C K Off-road cycling along elephant tracks is an excursion not to be missed. This is the ideal way to explore the riverbanks and rocky landscape of the Northern Tuli Game Reserve. Man-made tracks are virtually non-existent, which adds to the thrill, and there’s nothing quite as exhilarating as cycling alongside exotic wildlife.


H I K I NG T H E TS ODI L O H I L L S

the local culture and spot

The site of ancient rock

It’s also in the Makgadikgadi

paintings, the Tsodilo Hills

Pans that you’ll witness the

have always been a place

second largest zebra and

of intrigue and hold a

wildebeest migration in

spiritual significance for the

Africa. One not to miss.

Hambukushi and Basarwa tribes. The best way to explore this UNESCO site is by foot, and guided treks can be taken to the top of the hills to look out across the vast plains below.

Q UAD B I K I NG I NMA K GA D I K G A D I Exploring the Makgadikgadi Pans by quad bike is adrenaline-inducing to say the least. Fossil beaches and majestic baobab trees will be your markers in this barren, lunar landscape; and there is plenty of opportunity to learn about

animals that have adapted to the harsh conditions too.


Botswana Field Notes

Safari top pick

JACK’S CAMP

Jack’s Camp is ideal for both the romantic and intrepid traveller. Reminiscent of the first camps set up by colonial explorers, the landscape is minimal, but the elegance is spectacular.


WH Y WE LIKE IT This is the perfect place to get back to basics and admire the splendour of

LOC AT I O N

Botswana. Whether you’re keen to quad bike to remote

Jack’s Camp sits on the

fossil beds or relax poolside,

edge of the Makgadikgadi

there are few camps quite as

Salt Pans, a former lake and

stunning as Jack’s Camp.

now a barren wilderness that sparkles in the sun. The tents of the camp are sheltered by desert palms in this mysterious and aweinspiring landscape.

Y O UR R O O M Tents here hark back to a bygone era, with magnificent bedsteads, exquisite rugs, and old-fashioned trunks filling the space. The mess tent is home to a small natural history museum and a tea tent plays host to some exceptional meals.


Botswana Field Notes

BEFORE YOU GO Essential facts to get you to Botswana and home again

W HE N T O G O Botswana is very much an all-year-round destination thanks to lodges now operating throughout the green season between November and April. May to October is the country’s most popular time to visit thanks to moderate temperatures and an abundance of wildlife, but whichever time you decide to go, you’ll enjoy spectacular scenery, exotic wildlife and incomparable luxury.

G E T T I NG T H E R E FR OM LO N D O N Flights from London to Maun take about 15hrs and include a stop in Johannesburg.

FR OM NE W YO RK Flights from New York to Maun take about 20hrs and include a stop in Johannesburg.



Botswana Field Notes

NOTES





Botswana Field Notes


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