editor’s note Awe. It’s not an emotion many of us can say we feel regularly. So ensconced are we in our routines, in our daily lives, which are so often entwined with cityscapes and office hours; months at a time can go by without a flicker of awe, without the smallest element of surprise. Yet every single day I’ve woken up in Argentina, awe is one of the first feelings that consumes me. Because whenever I am here, I have traded towering skyscrapers for endless blue skies, concrete pavements for glaciers, winelands, rainforests; I have swapped everything I know so well for something alien to me, yet something so incredibly awe-inspiring. A vast stretch of land that extends to the southern tip of our planet; Argentina holds many surprises within its borders. Work your way up the country from ‘the end of the world’ at Ushuaia, and you’ll discover soaring mountains and giant glaciers, perfect for the adventure hungry, as well as world-renowned winelands, rolling hills and remote villages. And then there’s Buenos Aires, one of the most vibrant cities I’ve ever had the pleasure of exploring. Decorated with street art, adorned with gourmet restaurants and grand hotels, all the while moving to the rhythm of its passionate population; the cosmopolitan side to Argentina is one of its very best surprises. I am lucky. I have experienced the emotions that Argentina instils in its visitors, and now I am careful not to let months go by without a flicker of the awe I speak of. I am careful to remember there are some emotions we cannot go without, if we are to make our lives spectacular. And if in reading this, you recognise you have gone too long without feeling awe, excitement or surprise, at least you know where to turn to: Argentina.
Tom Marchant, Co-Founder Black Tomato
INTRODUCTION
argentina field notes
Argentina is a destination of great proportions and even greater possibilities. The eighth largest country in the world, within its borders you can both reach the frozen tip of Antarctica and explore the balmy winelands of Mendoza, dance the tango in buzzing Buenos Aires and gallop across silent plains with local gauchos. It’s a place that encourages its visitors to both indulge and challenge themselves and one that appeals to a wide variety of personalities.
In our Field Notes guide, we hope to help you discover which side to Argentina best suits you. With chapters for the adventurers, the culture seekers and the epicureans amongst you; flick through these pages and find inspiration in the country’s wild landscapes, vibrant cities and world-class cuisine, absorbing knowledge we’ve gained on our extensive travels through this wonderful destination. And if you finish the book still unsure as to which personality you are, then you’re just like us: a little bit of all of them.
F I E L D N OT E S
BOLIVIA
PA R A G U AY
Jujuy Salta
Iguazú Falls
Tucumán
pacific ocean
Iberá Wetlands
BRAZIL
Córdoba Mendoza
U R U G U AY
City of Buenos Aires
CHILE
ARGENTINA
The Pampas
Bariloche Puerto Madryn
atlantic ocean
El Chaltén El Calafate
Ushuaia
#1 BUENOS AIRES City of Buenos Aires & The Pampas
#2 LITORAL Iguazú Falls & Iberá Wetlands
#3 NORTHWEST Salta, Jujuy and Tucumán
#4 CUYO Mendoza
#5 CÓRDOBA Córdoba
#6 PATAGONIA Bariloche, Puerto Madryn, El Chaltén, El Calafate and Ushuaia
the adventurer Argentina is unbridled. It is untameable. A world of soaring mountains and perfectly flat plains, roaring waterfalls and quiet wetlands, it would seem that this country was made for the world’s most adventurous travellers, for the lovers of the outdoors. In this chapter, you’ll discover four of our favourite outdoor adventures in Argentina, as well as some of the country’s most remote lodgings (all chosen from an impossibly long list). So, whether you’re trekking across glaciers or riding alongside a real-life gaucho, just prepare to be left awe-inspired at every turn…
UNMISSABLE EXPERIENCES
four outdoors THE BIG ICE CHALLENGE A world of ice awaits in Argentina. In its southernmost ‘last city’, Ushuaia, you can even cruise past Antarctica in expedition yachts. But Patagonia is where true adventurers head. For otherworldly scenes and a feeling of real personal triumph, try trekking across the Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate. With crampons on and ice-picks to hand, traverse the surface and look out across a world of ice and lagoons in varying blue hues. We guarantee you’ll return home with pioneering stories and beautiful memories. LIVE LIKE A LOCAL GAUCHO Learning the way of a gaucho is one of Argentina’s most authentic and sustainable experiences. Settle into your ancient lodgings at your estancia and prepare for an early start; this is a real ‘day in the life’ experience. After a morning with the gauchos at work tending to their cattle and farmlands, you’ll head out on a horseback ride across endless countryside, through rivers, over bridges and past lush forests. By the time you’re back at the estancia enjoying a real Argentinian asado (barbeque) whilst sipping Malbec wine, you’ll feel like a verified Argentinean.
FLY FISHING IN ARGENTINA Argentina is one of the world’s best ‘reverse-season’ (November - April) fly fishing destinations. From Patagonia’s energetic trout and the ultra-aggressive golden dorado of the Iberá Wetlands in the north, to the migratory sea trout of Tierra del Fuego in the south, you could cast your way top-to-bottom, from perfectly-clear river to fresh spring creek. The highend fishing lodges alone are reason to enjoy some angling. Wake up to beautiful marshlands at Pira Lodge or the awe-inspiring Rio Grande valley at Kau Tapen. Short on time? Wrestle dorados on the Paraná River Delta at Nervous Waters Lodge, just 30 minutes from Buenos Aires’ city bustle.
THE ULTIMATE EXPEDITION IN THE NORTHWEST Trek through deep valleys and past dizzying mountain peaks, coming face to face with remote communities only accessible by foot as you go. Taking time to acclimatise, your journey will see you scaling the top of Mount Cumbre Grande, clambering past dense forests and wandering along picturesque paths. The highlight of this expedition has to be the unique interactions you will enjoy with untouched villages, whose people will welcome you wholeheartedly and invite you in to enjoy their beautiful way of life.
F I E L D N OT E S / / T H E A DV E N T U R E R
“Argentina is a destination of great proportions and even greater possibilities�
H OT E L S U G G E ST I O N S
AGUAS ARRIBA LODGE Nestled deep in the Provincial Lago del Desierto reserve, the secluded Aguas Arriba Lodge blends in seamlessly with the surrounding Patagonian wilderness. Experience a sense of true tranquillity in one of the six rooms this rustic cabin hideaway has to offer. The region offers unrivalled trekking and hiking expeditions – although with the stunning panoramic views of Mount Fitzroy and the Vespignani Glacier, it may be hard leaving the warmth of your mountain retreat at all.
remote abodes to rest your head...
EOLO PATAGONIA SPIRIT HOTEL A large country lodge boasting 17 suites, Eolo is built in the style of an authentic estancia but with all the modern comforts. Each of the suites boasts mind-blowing views across the countryside. For the best vistas, opt for a corner suite where you’ll get dual aspect views. What draws many people to Eolo though, is its proximity to the Perito Moreno Glacier. You can walk around the dazzling natural ice sculpture, exploring the white peaks and paddling across the turquoise waters.
LLAO LLAO The ultimate retreat for those seeking respite from the city, Llao Llao is a luxurious golf and spa resort with a beautiful setting on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi in Argentina’s Lake District. Set in the heart of northern Patagonia, this haven lies close to the beautiful town of San Carlos de Bariloche. With 205 rooms to choose from, you can cosy up in true Patagonian style after a day of hiking, biking or riding through the incredible scenery of stunning blue lakes, snowcapped peaks and lush forests of the Lake District. F I E L D N OT E S / / T H E A DV E N T U R E R
the culture hunter If you’re looking to immerse yourself in Argentina’s cultural offerings then you’re truly spoilt for choice. Home to polo legends, edgy art, secret bars and of course, tango; it seems that whatever sport or trend the Argentinian people invent or adopt, they embrace and pursue it with the same fierce passion until they are the world leaders in that field. Within this chapter we’ll show a glimpse of the incredible culture that you can expect on your visit, from its daytime attributes to its nightly traits. Prepare to lose yourself to the irresistible rhythms of Argentina’s cultural beat.
IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES
culture buzz
DISCOVER STREET ART While some cities make efforts to stifle graffiti, in Buenos Aires, every street is a blank canvas. There is no building or wall that is off-limits so artworks and murals can appear overnight, a sign of the free artistic passion that ripples through this expressive city. For this reason, artists flock to Buenos Aires to see their work immortalised in concrete form, so don’t be surprised to see the subway stations lined with aerosol paints or artists at work when night falls. Needless to say, a street art tour is a must. A LESSON IN TANGO Argentina is the home of tango, so it would be criminal not to try swinging your hands and feet to the country’s native beat. In Buenos Aires, tango is a way of life and watching dancers perform in a tanguerías show to the sound of a live orchestra is a rite of passage for any culture hunter. Take a step back to tango’s 1930s heyday with a city tour aboard a vintage Hupmobile car before hitting a concert. Then, lose yourself in the sensual rhythms - it’s the perfect way to let go of your daily grind and remind yourself of how life should truly be lived: passionately.
VISIT A SPEAKEASY The hide-and-seek glamour of New York’s prohibition age is alive and well in the streets of Buenos Aires, as long as you know where to look. Here cocktail dens take their secret status very seriously. The experience starts when you’re handed an envelope and you’re given the first clue. Then you’ll have to channel your inner detective to find your way to the nameless door and whisper the password to enter the closet-sized speakeasy. But your efforts will be duly rewarded, the bartenders here are expert mixologists and the only thing prized higher than secrecy is the quality of the exceptional cocktails. PERFECT POLO If you’re hunting for some exhilarating sports to add to your cultural itinerary then Argentina is the world’s undisputed polo powerhouse. It has more elite ten-goal players than any other country and every season, from November to December, you can watch them in action. The renowned Argentine Open, the oldest and most prestigious contest in the polo calendar, is the event not to miss. However, you’ll find everyone plays here, so if you fancy saddling-up for a lesson, you can rest assured that year-round you’ll be in the presence of polo masters.
F I E L D N O T E S / / T H E C U LT U R E H U N T E R
“Prepare to lose yourself to the irresistible rhythms of Argentina’s cultural beat”
H OT E L S U G G E ST I O N S
urban and rural retreats to indulge and unwind... ALVEAR PALACE Refined European elegance and more marble than you can imagine take centre stage at this sophisticated and sleek palace in the heart of Buenos Aires. With decor that mirrors that of Louis XVI, from sparkling chandeliers to the finest Egyptian cotton, it’s hard to believe that this kind of elegance is actually more inviting than it is overwhelming. Nevertheless, Alvear Palace welcomes you with open arms to unwind in pure luxury. Positioned in arguably the most fashionable neighbourhood in Buenos Aires, Recoleta, you’ll find an abundant supply of stylish cafés and boutiques. The perfect mix of culture and leisure for your stay in Buenos Aires.
ESTANCIA LOS POTREROS Sitting between the Andes and the Pampas, a stay at Estancia Los Posteros will give you the chance to immerse yourself in Argentina’s untouched natural beauty, as well as its timeless rural traditions. Horseback ride, play polo, bird watch, wine taste and dine in a spectacular and authentic setting with your enthusiastic and knowledgeable hosts always available to offer knowledge and guidance.
HOUSE OF JASMINES At the foot of the Andes, tucked away in 100 hectares of enchanting parks, gardens, eucalyptus trees and babbling brooks, you will find the beautiful boutique hotel House of Jasmines. A dream made reality by the Fenestraz family, this country retreat is inspired by all that Argentina is great for: gauchos, polo, never-ending mountains and of course, a passion for luxurious hospitality. With 14 rooms in total, this boutique estancia offers you a selection of suites, junior suites and the pièce de résistance, the Higher Room, which is perfect for families and larger groups who want that extra bit of privacy.
FAENA HOTEL Step back in time to a bygone era at the Faena Hotel. With 90 rooms flawlessly decorated in 1920s style, with red velvet and gold trims, you’ll feel the glamour of Old World elegance with every turn. Explore the sights of Buenos Aires and enjoy a day of spa treatments, then flop down by the fantastic infinity pool. All the rooms have plush furnishings and unbelievably comfortable beds, plus marble-clad bathrooms. We love the spacious Tower Suites which offer the perfect combination of exquisite views and undeniable romance. F I E L D N O T E S / / T H E C U LT U R E H U N T E R
the epicurean Argentina boasts landscapes perfect for rearing cattle and producing world-class wine, meaning this is one of the finest gourmet destinations in the world. The land of Malbec and the best steaks you’ll ever eat, a journey to Argentina would be incomplete without time spent sampling the traditional delicacies on offer here. Fellow Epicureans, this is one place you should be very excited about, so turn the page and discover exactly what gourmet experiences we recommend. Let the gluttony commence‌
M O U T H - W AT E R I N G E X P E R I E N C E S
GOURMET HAUNTS Recently Argentina has been broadening its culinary horizons with a growing number of gourmet hotspots and world-class restaurants. From award-winning fare at the seasonallyfocussed Chila or the bold and experimental i Latina, a stellar fusion of Columbian and Andean flavours, to 1920s elegance and afternoon tea at Casa Cavia, there’s plenty to satisfy even the pickiest of palates. But no Argentinian epicurean expedition would be complete without a pit-stop at cult favourite Tegui in Buenos Aires. Here, the menu is forever changing to ensure there’s an air of mystery for old and new patrons alike, so we can guarantee no two dining experiences will be the same, other from the fact that they’ll both be fantastic… EXPLORE THE WINELANDS Many Argentinian’s believe that making a great wine is an act of generosity, and this country has been very generous in producing some of the world’s most exquisite wines. A tour through Mendoza’s wine regions will see you stop at some of the county’s most renowned vineyards to taste their grapes, all set within the beautiful backdrop of trees and fields framed by the magnificent Andes. For a tour with a difference, you can choose to hop into a vintage car or motorcycle as you chug around on your tastings. Budding winemakers can even blend their very own vintage—the ultimate epicurean holiday keepsake.
gourmet argentina
BEHIND CLOSED DOORS IN ARGENTINA There’s no greater dining privilege than being invited into someone’s home for an authentic supper. But that’s what you should expect when you knock on the door of Treintasillas. This is one of Argentina’s ‘closed door’ restaurants, where you can rub shoulders with in-the-knowlocals and swap life experiences over a truly incredible meal of organic local dishes, paired of course with some of Argentina’s finest wines and bodegas. As the candles burn down and you say your farewell, you’ll leave knowing that you arrived a stranger, but left a fond friend. COOKING MASTERCLASSES For those who like to get involved in the kitchen, you can pick-up some tips from an expert Argentinian chef with a cooking class. The day begins early as you hit the farmers markets with your personal chef, scouting for fresh produce, before heading back behind closed doors where you’ll get to enjoy a private cooking class in a full restaurant kitchen. The ideal experience for any aspiring chefs.
F I E L D N OT E S / / T H E E P I C U R E A N
“You’ll leave knowing that you arrived a stranger, but left a fond friend”
H OT E L S U G G E ST I O N S
top places to stay for all things gourmet...
CASA DE UCO Imagine waking up each morning surrounded by only rows and rows of the finest vines, and the majestic Andes Mountains just beyond your private terrace. Well, this is your daily routine as you embrace some vineyard time at Casa de Uco, Mendoza’s unrivalled and world-class wine resort. Modern design and refined wine production are central to this Argentinian retreat. What’s more, the restaurant’s dishes are all inspired by the local fresh produce growing in the organic garden, a prized possession that rivals, and complements, their first-class wines.
PATIOS DE CAFAYATE What could be better than a stay at a 19th century colonial style mansion, surrounded only by vineyards and mountains? Absolutely nothing, according to Patios de Cafayate Wine Hotel. Except, perhaps, being able to sample that prestigious wine with your specially prepared regional cuisine after an afternoon of cycling through the endless Bodega El Esteco wineries. Better yet, ride on horseback through the Cafayate sand dunes that rise up and dance before you. THE VINES RESORT & SPA Open your patio doors to an array of mountain colours no matter what the season at The Vines Resort & Spa, which sits in the heart of Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Taste succulent flame-grilled cuisine at Siete Fuegos, created and run by internationally acclaimed chef Francis Mallmann. Watch the reflection of the Andes Mountains stand tall in the breath-taking infinity pool as you recline on a lounger. This is a wine resort like no other, blending into the heart of the rural Argentinean countryside.
F I E L D N OT E S / / T H E E P I C U R E A N
things to know before you go...
WHEN TO GO Argentina is truly a year round destination, and the sorts of experiences you’re after will dictate the time of year you should go. The country’s spring and summer seasons run between September to March, and this is the best time of year to go if you plan on doing a lot of trekking or you’re looking to conquer Aconcagua. March and April should be considered if you’re all about the food and wine, as the Mendoza region is stunning and lush at this time of year. Still, with cities like Buenos Aires buzzing every month of the year, it’s quite easy to see that the weather in Argentina won’t disappoint, whenever you choose to travel. GETTING THERE Direct flights from London are available, with the flight time standing at approximately 14 hours. VISA AND ENTRY REQUIREMENTS British and US citizens can travel to Argentina for up to six months without requiring a visa. GETTING AROUND Due to the country’s size, we would always recommend internal air travel to ensure you make the most of this unforgettable destination.