Malta Little Black Book

B l a c k To m a t o

M A L TA

Little Black Book

Our guide to Malta

B l a c k To m a t o

E d i t o r ’ s n o te Malta. The word alone conjures stories of ancient histories, thoughts of bright azure waters, colourful sands and crumbling forts. It inspires me by the grace with which it has entered the 21st century as a purveyor of culture, fine cuisine and world-class entertainment. Few countries have such power to pique my imagination, to completely transport me. But the inextricable tie between this unassuming collection of European islands and the opportunities for unique experiences I’ve no doubt leave many enamoured.

Malta and Gozo are two islands that are very special to me. Both have allowed me to delve into an unfathomably long past, have led me to hidden coves with waters that sparkle like precious stones. They have shown me that true, unadulterated beauty exists so close from the Black Tomato offices here in London.

A short flight and I can be walking in the shadow of Valletta’s incredible Baroque architecture, three hours and I can be reef diving, three hours and I can be soaking up the atmosphere of a whole town tuned in to an enchanting open air concert.

This Little Black Book is here to show you the highlights of Malta – but don’t just take my word for it, go and discover this Mediterranean idyll for yourself. Again and again.

Enjoy.

Tom Marchant, Co-Founder Black Tomato

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Our guide to Malta

Ramla Il-Hamra

GOZO

Blue Hole diving site

Blue Lago Victoria Mgarr Ix-Xini

COMINO

Paradise Bay

G h a j n Tu f f i e h a

Mosta

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W h at ’ s i n s i d e . . .

Top island experiences Your year in Malta 0 8 . Malta’s best beaches 1 0 . A culinary guide to Malta 1 2 . A guide to Gozo 1 3 . A guide to Comino 1 4 . Island hopping in the Med. 1 6 . Malta’s historic sites 1 8 . Malta’s best bars 2 0 . Highlights from Valletta 2 2 . Couples’ retreats 2 4 . Where to stay 2 6 . Before you go 04.

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S t P a u l ’s B a y

S t J u l i a n ’s B a y Va l l e t t a

M A L TA

S t P e t e r ’s P o o l

Malta Airport

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Our guide to Malta

T o p I s la n d E x p e r i e n c e s i n M alta Get ready to see the island from different perspectives and fall in love with it a little more each time.

Raise the roof One of the most spectacular and unique experiences in Malta has to be seeing an open air concert. They occur in various places around the island, such as Granaries square in Floriana and Teatru Rjal in Valletta. It’s one of the most enchanting ways to while away an evening filled with culture and beautiful music. Imagine sitting in the balmy evening air in the middle of a city square, the great starry sky above you, glass of wine in hand. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Take to the waters The turquoise waters and soft golden sands of Comino’s Blue Lagoon have become an iconic symbol for the Maltese islands. It’s the perfect example of the untouched beauty that this incredible part of the world can offer and sailing around it on a private yacht is an unbeatable way to experience it firsthand. Board your vessel at your chosen port and spend a whole day diving from the deck into the famous waters of the Blue Lagoon and dine as the sun begins to set on the horizon. Luxury island living at its very best.

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Saddle up When you’ve had enough of lounging on the beach or cruising along the waters, we suggest you take in the panoramic views of Golden Bay on horseback. If you’re not that confident in the saddle, you can have a private lesson; otherwise enjoy a nature trek along coastal paths whilst you soak up the landscape from a more elevated viewpoint. Take a ride at sunset and you’ll be treated to stunning views of the horizon as the day moves into night in a riot of colour.

Under water love Boasting unbelievably clear waters and calm tides, it is little wonder that Malta, Gozo and Comino are such hot spots for diving. If you consider yourself to be more of a novice diver, the Ghar Lapsi site in southern Malta is the perfect, shallow reef dive. For something a little more difficult, however, the stunning Blue Hole in Gozo and some of the deeper cave systems at Comino’s Santa Maria Caves site will leave you mesmerised.

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Our guide to Malta

Y o u r yea r i n M alta With very little rainfall and several hours of daily sunshine even in the depths of winter, you can see why Malta is such an ideal destination all year round.

Here are some ideas for what your trip could entail across the seasons.

Spring (March-May) Spring emerges quickly and disappears into summer just as fast again, so make the most of this beautiful time. It’s a bit quieter during these months too, so you can get a vitamin D fix while exploring ancient sites without throngs of other visitors. If your trip coincides with Easter, however, you will find the island much busier and its streets bursting with life as the Maltese take part in processions, pageants, bell ringing and passion plays in the lead up to Easter Sunday.

Autumn (Oct-Nov) Autumn is Malta’s second spring, so in late September you will find the island dusting off its arid coat as the weather starts to break and the odd shower revives the landscape. Hike, cycle, play tennis or take to the golf course, just make sure you are out and about breathing in the fresh island air. This is also the ideal time for yachting around Malta and in October you will be able to watch the Rolex Middle Sea Race, where some of the most famous sail boats make their way along the course… a spectacle not to be missed.

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Summer (June – Sept) Summer in Malta brings long, hot sunny days with cobalt blue skies, and the heat tends to lure people to the stretches of refreshing coastline that fringe the island.

Here you can lie and soak up some rays or take to the waters for some more active pursuits, such as boating, paddle boarding, water-skiing and diving. You’ll also find a cacophony of different things going on beyond the beach, from Isle of MTV and the Folk Festival in June, to the Jazz or Arts festivals in late July, and the many Maltese village festas in between, where the streets come to life with music and dancers to celebrate various patron saints.

Winter (Dec – Feb) If you’re based in Northern Europe, then Malta’s mild climate and daily dose of winter sun will make for an ideal and easy escape. Spend a couple of days exploring Valletta, lauded as ‘European Capital of Culture 2018’. Ditch the map for a bit and just wander the richly historic streets, stopping at the many little cafes, restaurants, museums, galleries or churches that lure you in. We also recommend you take a trip over to Gozo, Malta’s sister island, which also has a plethora of beautiful things to see – and what better time than when the island is cooler and calmer than usual?

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Our guide to Malta

B e s t bea c h e s i n M alta Discover Malta’s true beauty on one of our favourite island beaches.

Ghajn Tuf fieha

Ramla Il-Hamra

This is one of Malta’s beautiful golden sand beaches. To add to the charm, it is also slightly off the beaten track and remains undeveloped. Its neighbour, Golden Bay, while lovely, cannot claim either of these selling points (as its name would suggest, the sand is yellow), so we recommend Ghajn Tuffieha for those wanting to escape to somewhere unique, rustic and peaceful. The secret to the seclusion here probably lies in the long, steep steps that get you to the beach; but make the journey and you’ll be in for a real treat.

With its deep reddish-gold sand and vibrant blue waters, Ramla Il-Hamra is one of the most charming bays on Gozo – or some might say across the Maltese islands. You will find it nestled beneath steep terraced hills and lush countryside that remain undeveloped, although there are a few bars and cafes dotted along the beach. Make like a local and head here for an afternoon in the sun, before the sunset projects the silhouette of the iconic white statue of the Virgin Mary against the orange sky.

Mgarr Ix-Xini

St Peter’s Pool

Mgarr Ix-Xini is without a doubt one of the most secluded and picturesque beaches in Gozo. Protected by high rocks on both sides and boasting clear waters perfect for snorkelling and diving, this hidden paradise is as tranquil as you could ever wish a beach to be. So perfect is Mgarr Ix-Xini, in fact, that it was chosen as one of the set locations for Angelina Jolie’s latest film. Pretty enough for the big screen? Now that’s impressive. We say go now before everyone tries to find it.

St. Peter’s Pool is only a few minutes’ walk away from the road, but is often overlooked and thus blissfully empty.

Perhaps it’s because the beach doesn’t offer any facilities in the way of shops or water sports, but if that gives you a private beach for a day, then that’s fine by us. Pack yourself a picnic and spend a magical few hours soaking up the sun next to irresistibly clear waters. It’s a favourite with the locals, so we know we’re on to something good here.

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G h a j n Tu f f i e h a Ramla Il-Hamra Mgarr Ix-Xini S t P e t e r ’s P o o l 04 09

O O uu rr gg uu ii dd ee tt oo M M aa ll tt aa

A Cul i n a r y G u i d e t o M alta Local culinary offerings can make or break a holiday, so you’ll be relieved to find out that (of course) Malta and Gozo have some truly incredible gourmet treats in store for you. Here are some of our favourites…

Ta’ Marija

Ta’ Frenc

This award-winning restaurant in Mosta offers more than just excellent cuisine.

Once settled into the warm and rustic surroundings, you’ll either be serenaded by two charming guitarists or treated to a spectacular display of traditional folk dancing. Go ahead; lose yourself in this festive atmosphere with a little extra help from their excellent selection of fine wines. For some essential tastes of Malta, we say be adventurous and try the Maltese Fenek, a sumptuous dish of rabbit in wine and garlic, or perhaps the famous ‘widow’s soup’, both cooked to absolute perfection.

Ta’ Frenc is Gozo’s most prestigious restaurant and the recipient of many an award. Set within a 400-year old farmhouse, the restaurant cooks up some exquisite French and Maltese dishes. The fresh fish and local piglet mains will have you transported to culinary heaven whilst the 700 strong wine list offers plenty of options to compliment the flavours of your meal. Trust us on this one; you’ll want to return time and time again.

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Nenu The Ar tisan Baker

Barracuda

Tucked away along another pretty little street in Valletta, there is a Maltese gem waiting to be found. Nenu The Artisan Baker specialises in some of the most delicious baked goods you can imagine – a mastery that makes its way in to many of the authentic local dishes on the menu, such as ftiras (semi-flat, round bread, crusty on the outside while soft and airy on the inside) and other sweet treats. The restaurant flings open its doors each day and sees residents and tourists stopping in for anything from a quick breakfast, to a long lunch or a wine-fuelled evening meal.

Barracuda is both sophisticated and elegant and boasts some really stunning seafront views of St Julian’s Bay. The food is pretty good too, serving everything from a delicious range of carpaccio to more unusual dishes like Sea Urchin spaghetti. Whilst the succulent aroma of the in-house grill fills the room, experience tastes from around the world with a glass (or four) of wine from their huge selection of international and local wines. With its thoughtful design, delicious meals and charismatic service, it’s no wonder this is one of our favourite spots and we’re sure you’ll feel the same.

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Our guide to Malta

A Guide to Gozo Often referred to as Malta’s little sister, Gozo is a haven of tranquillity and beauty. Here’s a short guide to the best of this Maltese jewel.

What to see

Why we like it

Smaller and slightly more untouched than Malta, the best experiences to be had in Gozo revolve around activities like diving and delving into the historic sites that the island is famed for. Our perfect day would consist of a stint relaxing by the Azure Window, followed by lunch at Ta’ Karolina.

While away the afternoon beneath the waves at the Blue Hole dive site before drying off and heading into one of the many Baroque churches to get to grips with the island’s history.

As soon as you step off the ferry, you’ll be acutely aware of the relaxed atmosphere and rugged beauty that defines this beautiful island. Offering a change in tempo to life on the island of Malta, a day or two spent in Gozo will slow you down enough to ensure you take in the raw splendour of this ancient part of the world. And we all need slowing down occasionally, right?

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A Guide to Comino Comino is renowned for its crystal clear, turquoise waters and picture-perfect bays. Owning a beauty to rival the likes of any Caribbean hideaway, here’s a little insight into this slice of island perfection.

What to see

Why we like it

Comino may be small, but it packs a mean punch when it comes to the beauty stakes. Make the short trip over to this almost uninhabited, car-free island and head straight for the Blue Lagoon. A sheltered inlet of beach perfection, the Blue Lagoon is ideal for snorkelling and soaking up the sunshine. Pack a picnic and spend the whole day here, soaking up the incredible views before you. White sands and blue seas have never looked this good.

We loved how small this island is. How quiet and untouched. An oasis of calm, Comino will leave you breathless with its sheer beauty. In Comino, the world seems suddenly much clearer, the colours much more vivid. It’s a vision that will be imprinted on your mind forever. It’s certainly still imprinted on ours.

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Our guide to Malta

M e d i te r r a n ea n R o ma n c e i n M alta

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C h e c k o ut o u r n ew M alta t r i p h e r e

Our guide to Malta

M alta ’ s H i s t o r i c S i te s Important remnants of Malta’s long and vibrant history can be found dotted across the islands. These are just a handful of the most enchanting…

The Citadel, Gozo

Valletta, Malta

Situated in the centre of Victoria, Gozo, is the ancient Citadel, whose origins stretch back to medieval times.

Fortifications were first raised around the small town during the Bronze Age (around 500 years ago) and the citadel has survived under both Phoenician and Roman rule. Inside its fortifications sits a 17th century cathedral as well as an old prison and some beautiful churches.

Take a trip to this fascinating site and you’ll essentially be taking a trip back in time to ogle at the achievements of a time long since passed.

Valletta as a whole is one of Malta’s greatest historic achievements. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this Fortress City has stood for over 400 years. Narrow streets, ancient fountains and hidden churches make a wander in Malta’s capital a true pleasure. Whilst the vast array of museums and galleries are great for getting acquainted with the city, nothing quite beats getting lost down the tiny alleyways, past Baroque architecture and beneath ancient coats of arms that have been carved into centuries-old parapets.

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˙ Ggantija Temples, Gozo

The Three Cities

Dating from around 3600 to 3200 BC, ˙ the Ggantija Temples on the island of Gozo are some of the world’s most important archaeological sites. The Maltese name ˙ of Ggantija translates in English to mean ‘giant’ – and there’s good reason for this title. The megaliths are huge. So big, in fact, that the locals used to believe that they were the handy work of giants themselves. Take time to explore the two temples here and stop to contemplate just how long they’ve existed. It’s almost too long to comprehend. Which is exactly why they’re so very special.

Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, collectively referred to as the Three Cities, are undeniably the centre points of Maltese history. Their ports have been used since Phoenician times and settlements have thrived in the cities for centuries. For a true sense of Maltese culture and tradition, visit these ancient communities and discover streets and buildings older than those you’ll have seen in Valletta.

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Our guide to Malta

M alta ’ s B e s t B a r s Malta and Gozo have plenty of watering holes to keep you sated.

Some lively, some serene and some just perfectly located to watch the sun go down. Here are our top picks‌

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Level Twenty Two, Malta

Caf fe Cordina, Malta

Situated on the 22nd floor of Malta’s Portomaso Tower, Level Twenty Two serves perfectly executed cocktails and boasts floor to ceiling windows that afford panoramic views across the island. Take residence on one of the loungers by the window and mingle with the island’s coolest crowd. As DJ’s get the party started, hit the dance floor or escape to a quiet dinner elsewhere - the choice is yours.

Caffe Cordina is Valletta’s iconic refreshment spot, and its location on Misraħ ir-Repubblika means it’s perfect for people watching. Take a seat, sip a glass of wine and watch the world go by. The food is great too, especially the homemade sweets and pastries. It’s a popular haunt for both locals and tourists, but it’s such a pretty spot we actually recommend you follow the crowds this time.

Gleneagles Bar, Gozo

Cafe Del Mar, Malta

Slightly more rustic than the others we’ve listed so far, Gleneagles is a social hub in Gozo. A family run bar that is charming and authentic, the balcony looks out over the buzz of the port and the fishing boats bobbing with the tide. Grab a seat at sunset and join an eclectic crowd of local fishermen, moneyed yachtsmen and other visitors who have also been lucky enough to discover this jewel.

Positioned splendidly on the water’s edge at St Paul’s Bay, Café Del Mar is one of the hottest places in Malta to see and be seen. The design is contemporary and simple but carefully thought out to allow the incredible setting to take centre stage. World famous for its ability to create the ultimate beach chill out, this is the place to sit back and relax with a cocktail as you watch the sun set.

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Our guide to Malta

H i g h l i g h t s f r o m Valletta Boasting stunning architecture and an exciting events calendar, there’s plenty to see and do in Malta’s capital. Here’s a few of our city highlights…

St Johns Co-Cathedral This is arguably Malta’s most famous and most stunning church. Built by the knights of Malta in the 16th Century, St Johns Co-Cathedral looks relatively plain from the outside. What lies within, however, is a completely different story.

This is Baroque in epic proportions. Think marble statues, gold brocades, Mattia Preti paintings, ornately decorated tombs, hidden crypts, solid silver gates…Oh, and let’s not forget that there’s a signed Caravaggio piece inside the building (one of the only ones in the world). Yep, it’s a treasure trove of beautiful artistry well worth an hour or two of your time.

Valletta Baroque Festival Valletta’s Baroque Festival is one of the most notable annual highlights on Malta’s events calendar. Every January, the capital kicks off the New Year with an impressive line-up of classical musicians whose performances take place in some of the city’s most historic buildings. As you can imagine, the setting alone will enchant you, whilst the music is the icing on the cake. The perfect remedy to those winter blues.

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Upper Barakka Gardens Valletta’s Upper Barakka Gardens, which can be reached via the impressive twenty storey Barakka lift, boast sweeping views over the Grand Harbour and the fortresses beyond. The main reason people make the journey to the gardens, however, is to witness the firing of a historic cannon which occurs at noon each day.

The ceremony itself harks back to the days when the cannons here would be fired in salute of passing naval ships. A quirky daily event in a beautiful setting, you’ll be missing out if you don’t make time for this tradition.

The Manoel Theatre Malta’s national theatre and yet another example of Valletta’s architectural prowess; The Manoel is purported to be the third oldest working theatre in Europe. If there’s something you’d like to see here, we thoroughly recommend you take the opportunity. Whether it’s a Maltese or English theatre production or a performance by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra, we’ll arrange the trip and your tickets. All you’ve got to do is sit back and soak it all in.

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Our guide to Malta

C o u p le s ' Ret r eat s Malta and her sister islands are all incredibly romantic destinations.

Perfect for honeymooners or those of you on the hunt for a romantic break, here’s a list of some of the best experiences to be enjoyed by couples.

Listen to jazz in a magical setting If you’re visiting in the summer, one of the most magical and romantic experiences to be had in Valletta has to be listening to the sound of live Jazz on the steps of St Ursola Street. Set outside the charming Bridge Bar, the backdrop to these performances is the Grand Harbour and the beautiful architecture of Malta’s capital city. You’re even given little cushions to make the steps more comfortable to sit on. Unique and memorable, this is exactly the sort of thing romantic breaks should consist of.

Relax at a spa Le Méridien St Julian’s Hotel and Spa offers some of the most luxurious spa facilities in Malta, courtesy of the Myoka Spa. Myoka provides reviving, rejuvenating and relaxing combinations of massages and treatments, as well as a hot tub, cold dip, sauna and steam room which can all be enjoyed alongside your loved one. If you’re in Gozo, the Kempinski Hotel’s spa has an endless list of treatments too, including body scrubs, wraps and of course, romantic couples' massages.

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Unwind in a private yoga session Nothing quite puts you at ease like a morning yoga session, so whether you’re on a beach in Gozo or Malta, we say kick off your trip with a private yoga lesson alongside your partner. Despite the presence of an instructor, the hour long tutorial will feel both intimate and soothing, meaning you’ll start your holiday as you mean to go on. Stretch, meditate and discover what relaxation truly feels like in one of the world’s most beautiful destinations.

Indulge in an evening dinner cr uise This is the ultimate in luxury and romance.

Board your private yacht and be greeted by your personal skipper and chef before settling down for your three-course gourmet meal as you pull out of Malta’s Grand Harbour. The wine will be served by the captain himself as you enjoy views of a star strewn sky. You’ll have a full evening to make the most of this 53-foot yacht and the stunning views of Gozo you’ll pass on your journey. It’s enough to make you fall in love all over again.

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Our guide to Malta

W h e r e t o s tay i n M alta a n d g o z o Malta is a hotspot for luxury and boutique hotels that make the most of their stunning locations. These are just two of our favourites…

The Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux

Your room

Perched on one of Malta’s highest hilltops, within the fortified city walls and nestled in the atmospheric streets of Mdina lies The Xara Palace. In the midst of the “Silent City” this boutique hotel is true to its palatial roots, with luxurious antique décor and serving up food fit for a royal feast, with the service to match.

The Xara Palace’s 17 rooms are singularly designed and adorned with select period pieces. Four of the rooms have their own Jacuzzi on a private terrace – a definite way to amplify your enjoyment of the countryside views, we like to think.

Location

Why we like it

The Xara Palace is only a 15 minute drive from Malta’s international airport and 20 minutes from the beautiful capital of Valletta. In the quiet, narrow streets of the country’s old political centre, The Xara Palace is a couple of minutes leisurely stroll from the walled city’s main attractions and a short 10 minute drive or bus-hop to a beach of your choice.

We appreciate when a hotel’s ambience reflects its location and The Xara Palace does just that with great ease. Emulating its ancient surroundings and culture, The Xara Palace’s original local paintings, baroque furniture and picturesque internal courtyards make it authentically and atmospherically Maltese.

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The Kempinski San Lawrenz Hotel

Your room

Beautifully reflecting the rustic and pastoral surrounding landscapes of Gozo, The Kempinski San Lawrenz Hotel offers a luxurious, timeless and relaxing setting all within close reach of the local sights and attractions.

Each of the rooms are decorated in a chic Mediterranean style, from the cool marble of the floor to the honey coloured limestone in the bathroom. It goes without saying that all bedrooms are equipped with all the mod-cons, including air-conditioning, a television, mini-bar, tea and coffee making facilities as well as your own private balcony.

Location

Why we like it

Set in rural Gozo, the hotel is just minutes from the island’s largest city Victoria and the dramatic coastline. Around 90 minutes from the airport by water taxi, the Kempinski is the ideal retreat without being too hidden away from island life.

Sounds good to us.

We loved how the Kempinski is secluded enough for you to feel like you’ve managed to get away from it all, whilst at the same time having all the local amenities, attractions and sights nearby.

Relax in the hotel spa or make the most of the nearby bars. Either way, this is the perfect get-away for a luxurious holiday.

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Our guide to Malta

B ef o r e Y o u G o A few insightful tips to help you prepare for a jaunt to these perfect isles.

When to Go Malta, with its Mediterranean climate, is a destination that can be explored all year round. Winters are warm and often sunny with temperatures averaging at around 15 degrees. Summers are hot and dry, so ideal for the sun-worshipping, beach lovers amongst you. To avoid busier periods, we’d recommend you visit in autumn or spring, as these months are quieter but still boast ideal temperatures for sightseeing.

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Getting Around There are regular ferry services to both Gozo and Comino, so exploring Malta’s sister islands can be done with ease. As well as these inter-island trips, it is also possible to hop on a ferry from Valletta for quick access to some of the other cities on the island, such as Sliema and Bormla.

Taxis are a popular mode of transport but fares can easily rocket. If you’d like the independence of your own car, hire can be arranged quickly and easily and will give you access to more of the island.

Getting There Flights to Malta from the UK are easily available with a variety of carriers and leave from most major UK airports. Flight time stands at around three hours and twenty minutes. Air Malta, the national carrier, offers three flights daily from London (Heathrow and Gatwick) to Malta.

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Images courtesy of Visit Malta / ViewingMalta.com and the following photographers: JĹąrgen Scicluna, Ted Attard & Jean Louis Wertz.

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Our guide to Malta

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