a e l í gr a n i ca r ag ua
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your travel notes
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contents
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alegria | nicaragua newspaper
honduras
nicaragua
caribbean sea
pacific ocean
Costa Rica
KEY 1. Padre Ramos 2. León 3. Volcán Cerro Negro 4. Managua 5. Volcán Masaya 6. Masaya 7. Granada 8. Volcán Mombacho
9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Isla Zapatera Volcán Concepción Ometepe Volcán Maderas Playa Popoyo Playa Colorado Playa Gigante Playa Maderas San Juan del Sur - 04 -
18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.
Playa Hermosa La Flor Maiz Biological Reserve San Juan del Norte Rio San Juan de Nicaragua Bluefields Big Corn Island Little Corn Island Pearl Cays
an introduction
the editor’s note Nowhere is the vibrancy of life more prevalent than in Nicaragua. It manifests itself in breadths of lush jungle, in movements of a molten world beneath giant volcanoes, in exotic wildlife, colourful cities and lively celebrations. And, of course, in the local population, whose insatiable joie de vivre will always inspire me. Nicaragua is a country whose coastlines conjure images of paradise in one’s mind and whose landscapes are at once dramatic and mysterious. It has the power to enchant even the most discerning travellers. I for one find myself amazed each time I return to witness the life that thrives here; I feel as though I’ve discovered the very heart of Central America, untameable, raw and beautiful. Get lost on white sand lapped by turquoise Caribbean seas, trek beneath jungle canopies, explore colonial cities, feast on local cuisine, glide down the side of volcanoes… whatever you do, you find yourself immersed in the Nicaraguan way of life. And what a life it is.
Tom Marchant, Co-founder of Black Tomato
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Known as the land of lakes and volcanoes, you probably won’t be surprised to hear that Nicaragua’s fiery domains are some of the country’s most exciting highlights; you’ve got a lot of choice when it comes to volcanic endeavours. Whether you’re one for intrepid adventures or laid back wanderings, we’ve picked two of the most accessible smouldering mounds to suit your needs.
fIERY DOMAINS AT A G L ANCE Emitting a constant plume of gas and steam, Masaya is one of Nicaragua’s most active volcanoes, erupting as recently as 2008. Throughout history, it’s been known as the ‘gate to hell’, but there’s no real need to fear this natural phenomenon. Yes, it’s still very much alive and rumbling, but when the danger of an eruption gets too great, the national park will be shut by local authorities.
W HAT TO E X PECT If we haven’t quite put your mind to rest about the safety of Masaya, then knowing that this is one of Nicaragua’s most accessible live volcanoes might relax you a little. No challenging hikes are required here; instead, a winding road allows you to drive a car straight up to the rim. The rules of parking require your car to be faced towards the car park’s exit, should an eruption be imminent and a speedy escape required. See, we told you there’s nothing to worry about.
volcánO MASAYA O 11.9828 N, 86.1619 W When you arrive, enjoy never-ending views of the surrounding countryside and take the chance to peer down into the fiery basin below.
W H Y W E L I K E IT Nothing can quite beat the excitement of standing atop a rumbling volcano as you enjoy panoramic views over nearby towns and unbelievable landscapes. The danger element, though minimal, only adds to the adrenaline rush, whilst the fact you can get to the top by car makes the whole experience much less daunting. - 06 -
explore nicaragua’s volcanoes
volcán cerro negro O O 12.5060 N, 86.7020 W AT A G L ANCE Formed in 1850, Cerro Negro is the baby of Central America’s volcanoes. Unsurprisingly then, this also happens to be another of Nicaragua’s most active volcanic highlights. Whilst Masaya requires an easy drive to the top, however, Cerro Negro is a slightly more challenging experience. There are no well-worn hiking trails per se; instead, you’ll be faced with a steep incline up a natural trail that’ll take you up to an hour. We can tell you that the views from the top are worth the effort, so just remember that whenever you find yourself struggling with the ascent.
W HAT TO E X PECT
sides are incredibly steep. So steep, in fact, that past boarders have reached speeds of 70kph on the ride down. Not one for the faint hearted.
W H Y W E L I K E IT We’re addicted to uncovering unique experiences and it’s not every day you’re given the opportunity to board down the side of an active volcano, right? The views you’ll enjoy when you reach the top are pretty spectacular too, so don’t race down as soon as you get there. Take time to look around at the surrounding volcanoes and appreciate just how unique the Nicaraguan landscape really is. We did, and we were blown away (though not by an eruption, thankfully).
The hike to the top and the views you’ll be rewarded with are great, but it’s the way you get back down that will really get your heart pumping. Forget yet another hour long hike to get back to where you started. The surface of Cerro Negro is covered in volcanic sand, perfect for sliding back down on. That’s right, sliding. On a wooden board. They call it volcano boarding and it’s one of Nicaragua’s most unique and exhilarating experiences. Still, don’t be fooled into thinking that this will be a leisurely ride. Cerro Negro might be one of the smallest of Nicaragua’s volcanoes in terms of elevation, but the
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Granada, like its rival Leon, is one of Nicaragua’s cultural highlights. Its location on the shores of Lake Nicaragua only adds to the charm of this beautiful city, whose old buildings have been painted in pastel shades and hark back to the days of Granada’s huge wealth. Today, the iconic remnants of this period and the city’s close proximity to Nicaragua’s other natural highlights has ensured that the streets of Granada are busy with tourists all year round. Don’t let this put you off though; Central America’s oldest city is this popular for many reasons – reasons you should take the time to uncover first hand.
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A city guide to Granada
the beauty of granada W HAT TO SEE its location, so this is something you’ll need to make the most of during your stay. Volcanoes, lakes, jungles, islands – all of these things are close at hand and begging to be explored. So once you’ve had enough of the cosmopolitan vibes of Granada’s city centre, head out into the wild for some outdoor adventures.
Arriving in Granada, you’ll no doubt have several things you’d like to tick off your sightseeing list, but we’d recommend beginning by wandering the streets without a specific destination in mind. There’s no better way to get to grips with a city as colourful and vibrant as Granada, and you’re likely to stumble across lively markets and hidden colonial courtyards as you go. The local markets in particular are an exciting highlight. Slightly chaotic but nonetheless enchanting, the stalls that are set up daily in the Old Market Hall sell anything and everything to a bustling crowd.
W H Y W E L I K E IT Granada is a tourist hot spot, but there’s good reason for that. Picturesque and ideally located to explore the rest of the country, there’s no way we can deny the charms of such a historic and iconic city. The general atmosphere of Granada is enough to have you hooked, and once you’ve wandered this city’s streets, you’ll find yourself embroiled in that never-ending debate – Granada or Leon?
Once you’ve familiarised yourself with the rhythm of Granada, step back in time and enter the confines of the oldest church in Central America: Convento y Museo San Francisco. It’s home to an insightful museum, but the church’s collection of basalt statues that were carved as early as 800 AD are the main reason you’ll want to visit. Granada’s popularity, as we mentioned before, is due in part to
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untouched costalines
Nicaragua happens to have the advantage of two coastlines, one on the Pacific and one on the Caribbean. But what does this mean for the beach lovers amongst you? Well, whichever type of beach experience you’re after, Nicaragua will probably be able to provide it for you. Remote and untouched fishing village? Check. Surfers’ paradise? Check. Palm fringed slice of perfection? Ok – you get the picture. Here are just two of our favourites from each coast.
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P L AYA CO L ORADO
P L AYA GIGANTE
If you’ve come to Nicaragua interested in checking out the country’s world-famous surfing scene, then Playa Colorado is one of the best places to start. Situated in an offshore wind corridor (if you’re not down with the surfing lingo, this just means the conditions are great for some epic waves), the breaks of Playa Colorado keep surf enthusiasts coming back all year round. As it’s a private beach, we’ll either have to book you into one of the nearby hotels or arrange a private boat to take you down there. Then, when you arrive, grab a surf board and get paddling. There are a number of different breaks to suit all skill levels, but we wouldn’t recommend Playa Colorado to anyone that’s not been on a surf board before. This is a beach that can have some serious waves.
One of Nicaragua’s most tranquil offerings, Playa Gigante will give you a taste for authentic coastal life in this inspiring country. Overlooked by an old fishing village, the only signs of tourism are the handful of hostels and surf camps that have quietly popped up over the last few years. The idyllic days here are punctuated by the bustle of village life and the sounds of the waves lapping at the sands. Then, when the sun begins to set in blood-red Nicaraguan fashion, beach side restaurants will serve up the catch of the day and the last few surfers will return from hours spent at nearby surf breaks. The charms of village life and the temptation to laze in a hammock once more are sure to have you vowing to return.
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Nicaragua’s best beaches
Little Corn Island
THE PEAR L CAY S
This island is a little further afield (around 73 kilometres off the east coast of Nicaragua) but it’s well worth visiting. Quiet and relatively undeveloped, Little Corn is a destination of clear warm waters, clean coral sands and a handful of eco lodges and shacks serving up freshly caught seafood. The history of the island tells a story of pirate ships, colonial rule and buried treasure, and the Little Corn of today is no less vibrant. Home to a mixed community of Creole, English and Spanish speakers, you’ll be left charmed by the friendly locals and colourful buildings.
The Pearl Cays lie around 35 kilometres off of Nicaragua’s Caribbean coastline. Uninhabited and lacking in facilities (when we say ‘lacking’, we mean there are none) these dazzling isles will provide you with the ultimate ‘castaway’ experience. Seriously, you even have to barter with a local fisherman to get there (although we can, of course, arrange private transportation if you want to be slightly less Bear Grylls about it). When you arrive you’ll be greeted by bright white sands, vibrant green foliage and sparkling blue waters. An image you won’t be forgetting in a hurry. The waters here are perfectly clear, so great for snorkelling, whilst the dense foliage and endless expanse of beaches are just begging to be explored.
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White sands, blue seas, exotic wildlife and friendly locals – it doesn’t get much better than that. The Caribbean’s best kept secrets, Big Corn and Little Corn are true examples of island perfection. The ideal locations for diving, snorkelling, the freshest lobster dinners and a taste for Nicaragua’s Caribbean cultures, islands as pristine as this are pretty hard to come by.
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Nicaragua’s best beaches
incredible islands AT A G L ANCE overlooking the action of the dock means it’s an ideal waiting area for your boat over to Little Corn.
Lying around 70 kilometres off Nicaragua’s mainland, the easiest way to reach these islands is by catching a flight from Bluefields or Managua to Big Corn. When you arrive, you’ll be greeted by colourful houses, beautiful beaches and a friendly Creole population. Most people head straight to Little Corn when they land, but we’d recommend staying at least one night on Big Corn to get a good feel for the island. Any more than that though, and you may go a little stir crazy. This might be the bigger island but it’s Little Corn that has the multitude of activities and best ecolodges to enjoy. Little Corn can be easily reached via a twice daily boat trip from a dock in the centre of Big Corn’s town, so we’ll have no trouble getting you there.
Once you’ve arrived on Little Corn, we say check into your beach-side lodgings and hit the waters immediately. There are so many dive sites and coral reefs to take advantage of around Little Corn, you’ll want to spend every moment discovering what delights lie just below the surface. Dive Little Corn is the island’s original dive shop and even offers open water and advanced courses, should you completely fall in love with the underwater scene. Not one for diving? Then days spent snorkelling and lazing on the beach are just as idyllic.
W H Y W E L I K E IT
W HAT TO SEE
When you think of the Caribbean, Antigua, St Lucia and Barbados are names that will undoubtedly spring to mind. Big Corn and Little Corn? Not so much. Which is exactly why we love them. It’s the sort of untouched paradise you’ll go home raving about and the blank looks you’ll get from those who haven’t heard of the islands before will only further justify your welldeserved smugness.
The Corn Islands are all about the beaches, the coral reefs and the food, so your days on these spectacular little islands will be filled with snorkelling, diving and dining. A great way to spend your time. Even if you’ve just got a couple of hours to spend on Big Corn, Fisher’s Cave is one place you just have to stop at. A hit with the locals, this authentic eatery is known for serving up delicious sea food soup, and its position
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adventure beckons
Whilst you could easily spend a week or two in Nicaragua hopping from Caribbean beach to deserted island, you’d be missing out on something this fascinating destination is famous for: adventure. Opportunities to embark on intrepid explorations and try your hand at unique activities can be found everywhere in Nicaragua, and we think it would be a crying shame to not get involved. Here’s a little taster for the sort of adventures you could be a part of…
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D i v e t h e wat e r s o f t h e C o r n I s l a n d s
K aya k t h e R i o S a n J u a n
Surrounded by a barrier reef that’s brimming with healthy coral, shoals of colourful fish and numerous reef sharks, it’s little wonder that the Corn Islands are popular retreats for diving enthusiasts. Blowing Rock lies just over 15 miles off the coast of Little Corn and is one of the area’s most exciting dives. A volcanic rock that climbs to the surface from 80 feet below, Blowing Rock is a popular spot for experienced divers to catch a glimpse of barracuda, sharks and tropical fish. Alternatively, if you’re not feeling too confident, we’d recommend the White Holes site. It’s shallow enough to snorkel should you not want to scuba dive, yet is still home to beautiful elk horn coral, nurse sharks and the occasional stingray.
Located in the south eastern regions of the country, the San Juan River marks the border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica. Wave goodbye to those creature comforts and say hello to the raw beauty of nature as you embark on a kayaking tour down one of Nicaragua’s most impressive waterways. Untouched by tourism and as ‘back to basics’ as you could ever hope to get in Nicaragua, you’ll find yourself stopping off in remote riverside villages and getting closer to the interior forests that are so hard reach on foot. You’ll encounter lots of wildlife too, with cormorants, herons, river turtles and crocs common to the area. So, whether you’re just taking a day trip or planning a multi-day adventure into the unknown, this is a great way to immerse yourself in authentic Nicaragua.
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Outdoor activities
R a i n f o r e s t Ex p e d i t i o n s
S a i l away
Home to seven percent of the world’s biodiversity and over 70 protected nature parks, hiking through the rainforest is almost a prerequisite when travelling to Nicaragua. The country’s cloud forests in particular are something you wouldn’t want to miss out on. Cloud forests are rainforests that exist 1000 meters or more above sea level. Misty, colourful and abuzz with exotic wildlife, Nicaragua’s most prominent cloud forest grows on the slopes of Mombacho; one of the country’s inactive volcanoes. Here you can wander below thick canopies or zip line between the trees, spotting anything from howler monkeys to dozing sloths. The volcano is also surrounded by a number of coffee plantations which make for an interesting and refreshing stop off point as you ascend into the clouds.
We’re bringing a touch of luxury back to your Nicaraguan adventures with this one. Have us charter a private yacht for you and you’ll be transported along wild coastlines, over azure seas to deserted beaches.. Enjoy a spot of deep sea fishing, snorkel above vibrant reefs, stop to catch some waves on your board, keep an eye out for dolphins swimming alongside and drop anchor so you can take lunch on a hidden stretch of sand. Wherever your interests lie, we can build an itinerary to match. This is luxury living, but with a healthy dose of adventure to go with it.
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what to expect
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enchanting creatures Extreme biodiversity and a relative lack of commercial development have enabled a wide variety of exotic creatures to thrive in Nicaragua. The country’s dense forestry, clear seas and endless waterways are environments conducive to the well-being of rare and endangered species, making Nicaragua a haven for anyone interested in spotting some exciting wildlife. Here are just a few of the most intriguing…
PU M A
AR M ADI L L O
SEA TURT L ES
Also known as the panther or mountain lion, the puma is the largest of the small cat species and can be found from the northern tip of Alaska all the way down to the southern reaches of Chile, making this creature’s geographical range the largest of all mammals in the Western Hemisphere. Now that’s quite impressive for a ‘small cat’. Still, there’s no guarantee you’ll be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one. Your best bet would be to take a trip to the Indio Maiz Biological Reserve, one of Nicaragua’s little known and unexplored gems. Covering around 640,000 acres, this untouched wilderness is mostly closed off to tourism to ensure its preservation, but day trips to select areas with a local guide are possible from the town of San Juan del Norte. Just listen out for a roar.
Mousey looking creatures covered by a thick armoured shell; on paper, the armadillo doesn’t sound like much of a looker. Yet in reality, these small relations of the sloth and anteater are actually quite adorable. Spending two thirds of their day sleeping and the rest foraging in the dirt for ants and beetles, the armadillo is an iconic symbol for Latin America and one you should easily be able to tick off your list of things to see. They can usually be spotted on Ometepe Island or within the jungles around San Juan del Sur early in the morning or evening, along with lots of other wildlife, so be sure to add these places into your itinerary.
Turtles are a common sight along both of Nicaragua’s coastlines, especially if you go snorkelling or diving on one of the many reefs that lay just off shore. However, it is the critically endangered Hawksbill turtle in particular that we find so enchanting. In recent years their numbers have successfully increased and from July to December, you’ll be able to watch as the turtles return to the beach on which they were born to lay thousands of their own eggs. La Flor and Padre Ramos, an estuary on the north western Pacific coast of Nicaragua, are the two remaining nesting sites for the Eastern Pacific Hawksbill turtle. Travel to this vital destination at the right time and you’ll be close to some of the world’s most gentle and magnificent creatures. A truly magical and important moment to witness.
M a n t l e d H o wl e r M o n k e y Quite possibly Nicaragua’s most famous creature, it’s highly likely you’ll hear this one before you see it. The call of the Mantled Howler Monkey is the soundtrack to Nicaragua’s jungles; all you’ll have to do is enter the rainforest and peek up into the canopy to see one of these lively mammals. Large, black and incredibly loud, they’re sure to stand out against the vibrant greenery and otherwise silent forest. Ometepe Island in particular has the country’s highest concentration of Howler Monkeys, so for a safe bet, catch a boat to this stunning island and enjoy the array of wildlife (and the endless howls) that await.
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Nicaragua’s wildlife
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Lake Nicaragua, at 8264 square kilometres, is the biggest lake in Central America and the 19th largest in the world. Considering how many lakes there are on earth (around 117 million in case you didn’t know) that’s a pretty impressive title to hold. It has, understandably, become one of Nicaragua’s most prominent highlights, its volcanic islands and ecology attracting travellers from the world over to cross its glassy waters.
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A guide to the lakes
nicaragua’s lakeland THE W I L D L IFE
THE IS L ANDS
Lake Nicaragua might be a body of fresh water, but its brimming with creatures you’d only expect to find out in the ocean. Take, for example, the bull shark. Admittedly, few of these creatures remain in the lake today, but the story of their adaptation is fascinating. Over centuries, sharks that had managed to travel out of the sea and into the lake began to adapt to the fresh water. Eventually they no longer required the salinity of the sea to reproduce and thus they became residents of the lake, as opposed to occasional visitors. Sightings of these ancient and often aggressive animals are now rare, but the rumours and folklore that surrounds them are stories you’re sure to hear when you reach the shores of Lake Nicaragua. A large population of sawfish (yet another creature you wouldn’t necessarily associate with freshwater lakes) also call these waters home, whilst a vast array of different bird species thrive here too. Egrets and herons can often be spotted wading close to the shores of the lake’s islands and hawks are a common sight in the air above.
Lake Nicaragua is so big that it’s even got the space to house an island, Ometepe, with two volcanoes on it, Concepcion and Maderas. As a result, Ometepe is incredibly fertile and brimming with vegetation and wildlife. Here you can hike, bike or trek your way up, down and across the island. The dense forestry is home to Nicaragua’s largest concentration of Howler Monkeys, so if wildlife watching is your thing, you won’t be disappointed. There are also a number of stunning waterfalls and deserted beaches that you can hike your way to should you wish to escape the crowds and immerse yourself in the simple beauty of nature. Not far from Ometepe is the island of Zapatera. Enter this undeveloped paradise and you’ll only come across a few small settlements and a handful of basic eco-lodges on your travels. This is all a part of Zapatera’s charm, however, and makes a nice change from the hustle and bustle of Granada, the city you’ve no doubt just come from.
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hit the surf
even if you only do it for an hour (although we’d put bets on you going back for more), surfing in Nicaragua is a must. In fact, it’s just swell. - 22 -
Nicaragua’s best surf spots
Sandwiched between the Caribbean Sea and Pacific Ocean, Nicaragua boasts two very different coastlines to appease its visitor’s needs. Spend time on the east and you can bask on sun-drenched white sands, with the gentle lap of balmy aquamarine waters; hop over to the west and you find a tropical yet rugged edge to the country, with energetic waters that are a deeper shade of blue. Here lies a surfer’s paradise. Nicaragua’s surfing credentials draw people from across the globe, so even if it’s not what’s lured you to this beautiful country, we thoroughly recommend you take to the waves to check it out. Thanks to over 300 days of off-shore winds (due to the wind funnelling across Lake Managua from the Caribbean side) there’s everything from gargantuan waves down to gentle rolls. And with beach breaks, reef breaks and point breaks, and varying swells depending on the beach and season, there really is something to suit all levels. Rather than going into technicalities, we’ve pulled together a list of some of the top surf spots for everyone from the never-been-before novice, to the ten foot crest-riding pro.
P L AYA HER M OSA
M ADERAS
Around 12km south of San Juan del Sur you’ll find the stunning Playa Hermosa. Plenty of revellers descend upon the beach simply for its beauty and incredible views out to Costa Rica, but there’s good reason for you to visit with your board in tow too. Up to seven peaks can be surfed here and there’s a range of spots to suit both beginners and the more advanced wave rider. If you’re the former, the inside sections are great for your first time on the water and there are plenty of surf schools that’ll give beginner lessons here. For the surf veterans amongst you, the outside sections and hollow tubes will provide you with hours of fun.
A few kilometres up the coast from the vibrant town of San Juan Del Sur, you will find Maderas. A beach with beautiful cliffs that look out across ocean dotted with dramatic boulders, this is a good place for both beginners and those with more experience. If you’re a timid learner or a body boarder, stick to the more conquerable white surf near the coast; but if you want to show off your moves (and aren’t afraid of waves of up to 10 foot), then paddle out to the channel and get stuck in. It’s versatility means Maderas is popular, and therefore fairly busy (or buzzy, depending on how you see it).
P L AYA CO L ORADO
POPO Y O
Another few kilometres north of Maderas is Playa Colorado, playground for the more confident or practiced surfer in our midst. This is where you can find those giant waves we mentioned; but it’s not all about the height, they are powerful and fast as well. If you’re intrigued, but tackling a wave twice your height doesn’t sound like your thing, spend an afternoon on the beach while you watch the pros in action.
With surfing on both the inner and outer reef, and consistently long (and powerful) waves, Popoyo arguably put Nicaragua on the map as a surfing destination. The breaks here invariably draw daily crowds of local and visiting surfers, so there’s a chance you’ll have to vie for a good spot. With waves as enticing as the ones that Popoyo throws up, however, it’s definitely worth the competition. One thing you should note is that these waves crash down over quite a shallow reef, so be extra careful if you take a tumble.
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EXPERIENCE WHAT’S ON Everything about Nicaragua is vibrant, colourful and dramatic. The landscapes, the wildlife, the people and of course, the festivals and celebrations that occur throughout the year. From intense religious processions to the quiet beauty of poetic verses, Nicaragua’s events calendar is as varied as the country itself.
P a l o d e M ay o
I n t e r n at i o n a l P o e t r y F e s t i va l
Often referred to as Nicaragua’s biggest and best street party, Palo de Mayo occurs throughout the month of May and is best observed in the small town of Bluefields on the country’s Caribbean coast. The celebrations get under way on the first of the month, when local communities host their own smaller festivities including foodie fairs, art exhibitions and a range of contests. Fast forward to the last Saturday in May, however, and Bluefields is transformed into one giant carnival. Live music, dancing, local cuisine; it’s all happening here. Then, on the last day of the month, locals say a special goodbye to the May celebrations by performing a traditional Tululu dance in different parts of the city. A fascinating insight into local culture and a great excuse to party.
Each year in February, revered poets from all over the world descend upon the city of Granada in celebration of the power of the written word. Granada, with its colonial architecture and fascinating history, is the perfect backdrop to this cultural festival. As you can imagine, hearing the words of such famed poets echoing along streets that have been plundered by pirates and ruled by colonialism is quite an powerful experience. Whilst the main focus of the celebration is, of course, poetry, other talents are also showcased and appreciated. Singers, dancers, musicians, artists and theatrical performers all get a chance to shine, making this festival a great all-rounder.
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An events guide
CRAB SOUP FESTIVA L
San Jeronimo
The Crab Soup Festival takes place on the beautiful Corn Islands, so the promise of white sand beaches and azure waters should be enough to pique your interest in this vibrant affair, which is held in commemoration of slave emancipation. Big Corn and Little Corn Island host the celebrations on different days but it’s always at the end of August and both follow the same pattern of events. To begin with, the island is woken at sunrise by a live band playing in the back of a truck to ensure they’re up in time to watch the emancipation parade. Then, as lunch time comes round, everyone feasts on crab soup and enjoys dance performances, horse races on the beach and the election of the island’s beauty queen. It’s a wholly Caribbean affair that illuminates the diversity of Nicaragua’s cultures and traditions.
The longest celebration in Latin America’s festival calendar; San Jeronimo goes on for around 80 days in the town of Masaya - Nicaragua’s cradle of culture. Officially, the festivities are only meant to last eight days, but this is Nicaragua we’re talking about - it’s not the sort of country to do things by halves. The last day of September is when things kick off and the figure of Masaya’s patron saint, San Jeronimo, is removed from its place in the church and paraded through the town. As he is carried triumphantly, the streets burst to life with music, dancing and general frivolity to create a party atmosphere that won’t calm down again until the end of November. That’s right, three whole months of fireworks and street parties. You might just need to extend your trip.
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Q u e s i ll o
G a ll o P i n t o
The name Quesillo literally translates as ‘Little Cheese’, so you can probably guess what’s going into this little snack. That’s right, Nicaraguan cheese. Combined with onions and vinegar in a tortilla, this cheesy delight is finished off with a fresh cream topping. You’ll be able to find vendors selling Quesillos most places you visit, especially around bus stations and on the busier streets of the big cities where the stalls try to make the most of the passing crowds.
Gallo Pinto is eaten daily by most locals. It’s such a Nicaraguan staple that it’s even considered to be a national symbol of the country. A mixture of rice with onion, peppers, red beans and garlic all fried together, make a trip to Nicaragua and you’ll no doubt be feasting on this breakfast dish pretty often. Yet another filling treat, at least you know there’s no risk of you going hungry on your travels.
a taste of nicaragua
As with all Latin American countries, traditional cuisine is an integral element of the patterns of daily life in Nicaragua. The country’s local dishes are hearty (corn is the most widely used ingredient in Nicaragua, so you’re sure to be left full after every meal) and delicious, incorporating a range of tropical and local produce, as well as spices from all over the world. Here are a few of the dishes we just can’t get enough of.
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N a c ata m a l e s One of Nicaragua’s most popular offerings, Nacatamales are a variation of the Latin American Tamales. The dough that holds this dish together is a combination of ground corn and butter that, when ready, is filled with meat, rice and a variety of vegetables. To ensure this mixture keeps its form throughout the five hour steaming process, it’s all wrapped up neatly in a plantain leaf. When you get your first taste of Nacatamales, you’ll understand why this is a dish that the locals often save for Sunday breakfast or other significant occasions. It’s mouthwateringly satisfying. It’s also the perfect pick me up after a long volcanic hike or a day out riding the waves, so be sure to get your hands on one (or some).
Pl ata n o s F r i t o s The best snack to eat on the move, Platanos Fritos are slices of plantain that have been fried until they resemble more of a crisp than a piece of fruit. You can enjoy them on their own or as an accompaniment to any other Nicaraguan dish. For a sweet treat, sprinkle the plantain with a little brown sugar to emphasise the fruit’s subtle sweetness. Alternatively, you can keep it savoury with a topping of cheese or sour cream.
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Our favourite local dishes
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alegria | nicaragua newspaper
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A city guide to León
life in leon
AT A G L ANCE
Home to crumbling colonial architecture and some of the best nightlife to be found in Nicaragua, Leon is wonderfully energetic. Historic churches and stunning cathedrals are dotted throughout whilst Leon’s university fills the streets with intellectual young minds. Overall, Leon attracts far fewer tourists compared to Managua, which suits the more seasoned travellers who are keen to uncover the city’s secrets without the crowds. It’s something that is likely to change in the near future, so don’t wait too long. Just be prepared to fall head over heels for what’s sure to be your new favourite city.
W HAT TO SEE The most obvious place to start would have to be the Cathedral of Leon, the biggest Cathedral to be found in Central America. Wander through and admire the architecture before exploring the cellars beneath. When you’ve seen all there is to see of the interiors, climb the steps to the cathedral’s roof. The views from up there are truly spectacular, overlooking the rest of the city’s architecture and the volcanoes beyond. For another dose of culture, Leon’s Museo de Arte Fundación Ortiz Gurdián has been coined Central America’s most impressive contemporary art museum. Home to an incredible collection of works ranging from the Renaissance period all the way up to modern day, you’ll find pieces by
international artists as well as a strong collection of Latin American works to lay your eyes on. With works by Diego Rivera and Roberto Matta on display, you’ll quickly realise that, despite inclusion of international pieces, this is mainly a celebration of Latin American art, and rightly so. As night falls, you’ll start to see where Leon gets its reputation for great nightlife from. You’ve got a good amount of choice when it comes to choosing where to eat and drink, yet the city still manages to feel authentic and undeveloped. You’ll find plenty of live music nights, that attract both locals and travellers, whilst the food scene is just as abundant. Antorchas bar y bocas and its Nicaraguan take on tapas is a particular favourite of ours.
W H Y W E L I K E IT Leon genuinely presents itself as a city unaffected by tourism. No matter where you wander in the city, you never get the feeling that this is a destination putting on a performance for the travellers that come through here, be it live music nights, themed restaurants or special events. In catering for the locals, Leon simultaneously caters for the traveller looking to immerse themselves in the Latin American way of life; the sort of traveller we all aspire to be.
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alegria | nicaragua newspaper
before you go - 30 -
Some handy tips
when to go
Getting Around
Nicaragua has two distinct seasons; the dry and the rainy. The dry season runs from December to April and guarantees scorching temperatures and clear skies, whilst the wet season, from May to November, is much cooler and attracts fewer tourists to the country. Each season has its perks, so it just depends what you’re looking to experience. For beach days and Caribbean explorations, the dry season is probably best, whilst the rainy season will ensure the landscapes are lush and green for interesting and colourful hiking experiences. The only months we’d suggest you avoid are between August and October, as this is when the rains really kick in and can make overland travel rather difficult.
With so much to see in this vast country, we’d recommend you take internal flights to ensure you make the most of your time in Nicaragua. The country’s domestic airline, La Costeña, has flights to most of the hot spots, including the Corn Islands, so you’ll be able to hop about quite easily.
f u n fac t s 1 – Nicaragua is around the same size as the state of New York.
H ow to G et Th e r e Flights from London with American Airlines usually take around 14 hours and will include a stop in Miami. Alternatively, if you’re flying with Delta you will pass through Atlanta.
Visa Requirements British and US citizens can visit Nicaragua for up to 3 months without requiring a visa, but you will need to pay $10 on entry.
2 – It’s the largest yet least populated country in Central America (and it has the most coastline, too). 3 – Lake Nicaragua is home to the world’s only fresh water sharks. 4 – Nicaragua is the only country in the world where you can surf down the side of an active volcano. 5 – It’s one of the top five surf destinations on earth. 6 – It is home to the largest tropical rainforest north of the Amazon
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